MYANMORE Magazine - No.9/ July 2017

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No. 9 / July 2017

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Yangon, Mandalay & Beyond

No. 9 / July 2017 It’s free!

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100+ venues

What’s On 8 Promotions 10 Movies 13 New Openings 14 Briefings 16

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100+ places - restaurants, bars, cafes, health and well-being establishments, hotels and retail outlets, when you flash your MYANMORE card. www.myanmorecard.com New designs available - collect them all!

Cover Story 18 Meet Aung La N Sang King of the ring

AUNG LA N SANG:

MYANMAR’S FIRST WORLD CHAMP

Art and Culture 24 Music & Entertainment Zens and the art of Hannay 26

more action more entertainment more lifestyle

The Burmese Python Swallows Them Whole: Aung La N Sang Photography Gerhard Joren

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Yangon, Mandalay & Beyond

No. 3 / Jan 2017 It’s free!

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COMING UP FOR AIR: MAYCO NAING more action more news more lifestyle

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Managing Director Andreas Sigurdsson Editors Natty Tangmeesang Ryan Sequeira Contributors Brittney Tun Dominic Horner RJ Vogt San D. Foot San Zar Ni Bo Sofia Raineri Susan Bailey Sondang Grace Sirait Teetang Oggar Photography Gerhard Joren

MYANMORE E-NEWSLETTER

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6 / MYANMORE magazine #9 July 2017

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Sales & Advertising sales@myanmore.com 0977 900 3701 / 3702 About Myanmore Myanmore is a registered brand under Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited providing digital and print publishing as well as creative services. Myanmore is managing the leading online city guide www.myanmore.com and the printed publications Weekly Guide, EnjoyIt, KnowIt. We also work closely with the team on DRIVE, the first and only premium car magazine in Myanmar.

Recently, we have also launched digital platforms such as Myanmore and Sarmal (restaurants & bars in Myanmar) mobile apps. The mission is to provide great content and experiences for residents of Yangon to enjoy and explore.

Disclaimer No part of this publication can be reproduced or transmitted in any form without prior written permission from Myanmore. All details are deemed correct at the time of print. The editor, employees and contributors cannot be held responsible for any errors, inaccuracies or omissions that may occur. www.myanmore.com www.facebook.com/myanmore www.issuu.com/myanmore Follow us on Instagram and Viber.

Social Is life in Yangon Uber or not so Uber? 28 Travel Life's a Beach 30 Life's a Journey, not a destination 32 Social Enterprise Taking Myanmar to the World 34 Food & Drink 36 Go West!

Sofaer & Co. De' Burmese Shopping Romancing the stone 42 Lifestyle Scent tof a woman 44 Wellness All gain, no pain 46 Horoscope 47

WHAT'S ON | EVENTS

Exhibition

Pan Pacific Yangon Career Fair 2017 10th - 12th July 2017 | 9:00 AM - 6:00 PM

Are you excited to visit our Career Fair 2017? Bring your resume and Dress for success. Pan Pacific Yangon is organising a career fair and candidates are invited to walk in discussion on the respective dates. | RSVP : info.ppygn@ panpacific.com.

Junction City - Corner of Bogyoke Rd and Shwe Dagon Pagoda Rd, Pabedan Tsp, Yangon.

Safety ,Marine & Engineering Expo 2017 21st - 23rd July 2017 | 8:00 AM - 6:00 PM

The Expo which will show safety products, fire protection products, CCTV, security and safety equipments, safety traing centre, maritime services, maritime training centre, marine paint and relative products, marine equipments, engineering products and so many other things. And , there will be discussion and talks about safety.

Tatmataw Convention Hall - U Wisara Rd, Dagon Tsp, Yangon.

Nightlife

Stammtisch at Mahlzeit 14th July 2017 | 6:00 PM - 9:00 PM

Mahlzeit Restaurant is holding its monthly STAMMTISCH day every second Friday of the Month. The word - Stammtisch stands for "Regulars table" where you are able to socialise with like minded people, play games for fun and enjoy a good conversation over a beer or two.

Come and enjoy a great evening with german music, food and drinks - meet new friends or business partners on this event. Free beer sponsored by Carlsberg Brewery. | Free Admission.

Mahlzeit - 84, Pann Hlaing St, Sanchaung Tsp, Yangon.

Vive La France : French National day

worry, all your favourite dishes will stay the way they are. Also, Fisewook will be spinning cool Tropical House tracks and some Hip Hop to end Saturday night in song and dance, so you definitely don't want to miss it. | RSVP : 01 397 060.

50th Street Cafe Restaurant Bar - 9/13 50th St, Botataung Tsp, Yangon.

Live Music - Maitri Band

22nd July 2017 | From 8:00 PM FREE ENTRY. Join popular Thai band Maitri as they play their first overseas gigs, exclusively at Union Bar & Grill as part of our "Monsoon Music Month".

Blending folk, rock & hillbilly blues, their unique musical style is sure to get you up and dancing. Extended Happy Hour on Heineken & Select Cocktails All Night. | Free Admission.

Union Bar and Grill - 42 Strand Rd, Left corner of the Myanmar Red Cross Building, Botahtaung Tsp, Yangon.

14th July 2017 | 7 PM

Art & Stage The Penthouse is celebrating the French national day of the country of Montesquieu and Victor Hugo.

Delectable Imported French cheese buffet, Where is Charlie? live music band from 8:30 PM, Eddie Sakka flying from Bangkok to spin till late. The one and only real French touch Celebration. RSVP to avoid disappointments.

09 771 239924.

The Penthouse - 271-273, BarGaYar St, Park side one building 8th floor, Sanchaung Tsp, Yangon.

Port Autonomy PopUp at 50th Street Bar (Bastille Day Edition) 14th - 16th July 2017 | 11:00 AM - 11:59 PM

One of the most delicious menus in Yangon returns to 50th Street in July!

The Port Autonomy Pop-Up is back, with a slight French twist, but don't

8 / MYANMORE magazine #9 July 2017

Daniel Chia - Smooth Jazz Saxophonist Live 13th July 2017 | From 7:30 PM

FREE ENTRY. Join Singaporean Jazz Saxophonist & his band in the last night of their tour of Yangon as part of Union Bar & Grills "Monsoon Music Month". Daniel will be bringing his unique blend of soulful, funky jazz to Union Bar & Grill as he plays music from his debut album, The Moment, which was produced by the Grammy award winning producer Paul Brown. | RSVP : 01 392 263.

Union Bar and Grill - 42 Strand Rd, Left corner of the Myanmar Red Cross Building, Botahtaung Tsp, Yangon.

WHAT'S ON | EVENTS

ROc And Roll: 9Micro, Bart Was Not Here, Wunna Aung July 15 – July 29 | 11:00AM - 6:00PM

Join them for the opening reception 15 July, 2017 at 6 pm at Myanm/art!

Roc And Roll is an exhibition of the latest work by ROAR (Release of Artistic Rage), a group of artists including 9Micro, Wunna Aung and Bart Was Not Here. Following their debut show at Myanm/art last year, ROAR presents a new take on current artistic trends, reacting and raging against the trope of traditional storytelling in national artistic trends. Breaking the rules, or reinventing them, is the new normal.

Myanm/art - 98, Third Floor, Bogalay Zay St

IND!E SCENE w/ Jelly Rocket 16th July 2017 | 6:00 PM - 10:00 PM

It's time for something different.

From dark and edgy to Indie pop from Bangkok to Yangon. BOSSYxx launch concert will be the coolest concert of the summer and the proceeds will fund music scholarships for young girls. LINE UP: Bangkok's biggest indie band JELLY ROCKET Inappropriate Thoughts--musician collective, Platform, Gabriel, Tu, ITĂ–, Vicky and Juzz. Discover what is cool in YGN and BKK. City and storm views on full display through the floor-to-ceiling windows of Sky Bistro. Proceeds will go to GITAMEIT MUSIC CENTER to fund the education of young girls and women. Tickets 8,000 at the door. | RSVP : 01 255 277.

An Evening of Musical Friendships

22nd July 2017 | 5:00 PM - 7:00 PM An Evening of Musical Friendships is the finale concert to the Philharmonic Society of Myanmar's Festival and Competition 2017. This concert features the music of Myanmar, Taiwan and Singapore, along with masterpieces from the classical repertoire, and will be performed by PSM's Festival Directors, Artists, their outstanding students. Free Admission (Suggested Donation 10,000 Kyats).

Sule Shangri-La - 223, Sule Pagoda Rd, Kyauktada Tsp, Yangon

Activity

Yoga for Bankers 16th July 2017 | 10:00 AM - 12:00 PM

They welcome aspiring bankers and professionals to a restoring sunday morning. Gain new strength before the work week with an energy boosting yoga class, followed by a cup of green tea with fellow bankers. The class will be held at Training Ground Myanmar, by one of their outstanding instructors. Member price: 5,000kyats, Non member: 10,000kyats. To become a member of Yangon Bankers Club please contact us at: info@myanmarfinancialcenter. com or +95 (0) 9 775 161 810.

Training Ground - Asia Business Center, Corner of Mahabandoola Rd & 48th St, Botahtaung Tsp, Yangon.

Thiripyitsaya Sky Bistro - Sakura Tower, 21st floor, Kyauktada Tsp, Yangon.

Listings Add your own event on events. myanmore.com or contact us on events@myanmore.com

MYANMORE magazine #9 July 2017 / 9

PROMOTIONS | DEALS Nightlife

Ladies Night

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LADIES GET 2 FOR 1 - MARGARITA/ BLUE MARGARITA - TEQUILA SUNRISE 5PM-11PM. HOUSE RED/WHITE WINE ALL NIGHT LONG!

Enjoy a free drink for Ladies (Two Glasses) every Wednesday. FREE Entry and Live Entertainment by LNR Unplugged. Buy 1 Get 1 FREE Happy Hour from 5pm - 7pm.

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J Bar @ Jasmine Palace Hotel 01 230 4402

Ladies Night Every Wednesday Ladies night in YangonYangon every Wednesday. DJ MR.Y at 8pm with Hip Hop, Rnb, House, etc. FREE cocktails to ladies at 7pm. 50% Off on Frozen cocktails. 20% Off on Sparkling Wine.

HAPPY HOUR 5pm – 7pm. Bucket Beers Deal (Buy4 get 2).

Dining

Nightlife

A Taste of Yunnan 14th - 21st July Enjoy the unique cuisine of Yunnan region at Summer Palace. For Lunch and Dinner, expertly prepared by our guest chefs from Hylandia Shangri-La, Chefs Muxiao - Cong and Yang Tang.

Social Night with Latin Beats @ Club Rizzoli

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Every Friday

1st July - 30th September 2017

Dance the night away to Salsa, Bachata, Kizomba and Tango with dance instructor Nora McGreen from 7pm till late. Happy Hour until 10pm on all house-poured drinks.

Dine at any of ravishing restaurants Tiger Hill Chinese, Kohaku Japanese, The Emporia to be in with the chance to win some fabulous prizes.

Prizes include: a relaxing trip to Ngapali flying with FMI Air, Dinner for two at Chatrium Hotel, High Tea Set at Lobby Lounge, much more. The winners will be announced in october 2017.

Chatrium Hotel 01 544500

Chatrium Hotel 01 544500

Yangon Yangon Rooftop Bar 01 255 131

Chatrium Dine & Fly

Travel

Nightlife

Qatar Airways The

MARKET All Day Dining Restaurant

Everyday Buy 1 Get 1 FREE for beverages; draught beer, cocktails, spirit/mixer & soft drinks (excluding bottles) from 5pm - 8pm every day.

7th Joint Bar 09 260 600 552

Fly with the World’s Best Airline, Save up to 40%! To celebrate our 2017 Skytrax Airline of the Year award and to say thank you, we are delighted to offer you the chance to experience our award-winning service with this amazing offer.

Europe from USD 757 America from USD 865 Book by 19 July 2017, Travel period – 10th July to 10th December 2017 www.qatarairways.com/mm - 01 379845

Happy Hours

7th Joint Bar & Grill Happy Hour

Nightlife

Factory Sale Everyday 5 Glasses/ 1 Tower/ 2 Towers of Carlsberg, Tuborg or Yoma with amazing price before 9 pm.

The Beer Factory 09 977 606888

Happy Hour Everyday Buy 1 Get 1 FREE on Beer, Cocktail, Mocktail, Highball and other Spirit. Get 20% discount on Whisky and Wine.

Any order will serve with snacks. 5 pm - 8 pm.

Cask 81 09 254 083 981

AJ’s Happy Hour Mon - Fri AJ's bar and grill features a great selection of 3000 ks appetizers, buy 1 get one free Myanmar beer, wine by the glass 4000 ks, 3000 ks classic cocktails and more. 4 pm - 7 pm.

AJ’s - 09 785 422151

Happy Hour @ The Basement Mon - Thu Buy 1 Get 1 FREE draft beer from 5 pm - 8 pm The Basement 01 229 173

10 / MYANMORE magazine #9 July 2017

PROMOTIONS | BUSINESS Transportation

Hello Cabs Taxi Service No.24, Aye Yeik Mon 2nd Street, 4th Ward, Hlaing Township 01 9339111 http://www.hellocabs.com.mm

Oway Ride Myay Nu Street, Sanchaung Tsp 01 239 9100 https://www.owayride.com.mm/

Relocation

AGS Movers Myanmar 15, Mya Wut Yi Lane (4) Mayangone Township, Yangon +95 1658108 https://www.agsmovers.com/branches/ asia/myanmar/myanmar

Asian Tigers Mobility Room 504, M.M.G Tower, #44/56, Kannar Rd, bet 41st - 42nd Sts , Botataung Tsp 01 250 290, 09 541 2751 yupar@asiantigers-myanmar.com http://www.asiantigers-mobility.com

MEBS Global - Cargo & Freight, Warehouse Block C, F1-09, 2nd Flr, Kabar Aye Pagoda Road, Pearl Condominium, Bahan Township 01 542 357 http://www.mebs-global.com

Laundry

Shine Professional Dry Cleaning & Laundry Services No. 111/A, Nga Htat Kyee Pagoda Rd, Bahan Tsp, Yangon 01 545700, 09 8612273, 09 260700712, 09 791799014 customerservice@shinelaundry.net http://shinelaundry.net

5àsec Myanmar Laundry Service Corner of Inya Road & Dhammazedi Road, Kamaryut Township, Yangon 09 454550945 info.mm@5asec.com http://www.5asec.com.mm

Gems & Jewellery

FRANCK MULLER BACKES & STRAUSS YANGON Sedona Hotel, No.1 Kabar Aye Pagoda Road,Yankin Township 01 860 5539 http://www.franckmuller.com

LALIQUE Sule Square, Level 1, Room 115, Sule Pagoda Rd, Pabedan Tsp 09 964046996

Mia Ruby 79 Pansodan Street, Kyauktada Township, beside Rangoon Tea House, Yangon, Myanmar 09 457 183424 http://www.miaruby.co

SP Gems No.30A, Pyay Rd, 7 Mile, Mayangone Tsp 01 660397, 01 666052, 01 666053 spgems.myanmar@gmail.com http://spgems-myanmar.com

Real Estate

Pun Hlaing Estate Sales & Marketing Main Sales Gallery & Sales Office – Pun Hlaing Golf Club House, Pun Hlaing Estate, Hlaing Tharyar Tsp 01 687 777, 01 684 013 phgerental@spa-mm.com http://www.punhlaingestate.com

Star Residence Star City (A5 Building), Kyaik Khauk Pagoda Rd, Thanlyin Tsp 056-23150 (ext. 1166, 1162, 1128) leasing@ted-starcity.com https://www.starcityyangon.com

Shangri-La Serviced Apartments, Yangon

LOTTE Serviced Apartments 82 Pyay Rd, Sinphyushin Yeik Tha, Ward 11, Hlaing Tsp 09 795729962 asstmktmgr@lotte.net http://www.lottehotel.com/yangon Car Rental

Yoma Fleet B-1, 1st Floor, Yoma Bank Building, FMI City, Hlaing Thar Yar Township, Yangon, Myanmar 09 797 005366, 09 797 005370, 09 450003 5280, 09 254 126 940, 09 795 979676 soe@yomafleet.com http://www.yomafleet.com

Europcar 74, Lann Thit Road, Innsein Township 09 964 722884, 01 646330 http://www.europcar-myanmar.com/ Health

Evergreen Dental Care Myanmar No.6, Min Ye Kyaw Zwa Road, corner of Pyay Road, Lanmadaw Township, Yangon, Myanmar 01 395 395 http://evergreendentalmm.com

Inya Day Spa Address 1 - 16/2 Inya Rd, Kamaryut Tsp | 01 537 907, 09 301 73497 Address 2 - 3rd Floor, Junction City, 354/D Bogyoke Aung San Rd, Pabaedan Tsp Address 3 - Star City, Kyaik Khauk Pagoda Rd, Thanlyin Tsp inyaspa@gmail.com http://www.inyaspa.com

Oasis Spa Pun Hlaing Golf Club House, Pun Hlaing Estate, Hlaing Tharyar Tsp 01 684 013 phgemarketing@gmail.com http://www.punhlainggolfestate.com Travel

Columbus Travels & Tours Ltd 586, Strand Rd, Corner of 7 St, Lanmadaw Tsp 0951 229245, 0951 2316245 ticketing.columbus@gmail.com http://www.travelmyanmar.com

Noble Moon Travels & Tours 177, Strand Road, Near Thit Taw Road Bus Stop, Alone Tsp 09 2600 71710, 09 2600 71684, 09 40 1600 227 http://www.noblemoontravel.com

Wellbeing

Y.G.N Health Spa & Wellness Center No.20, 3rd and 4th floors, Pearl Road, Golden Valley, Bahan Tsp 09 777 3333 58

Beyond Boundaries Yoga

Do you want to be listed?

Contact us on 09 779 003 701/702 sales@myanmore.com

No.28, Level 3, Boyar Nyunt St, Yaw Min Gyi, Dagon Tsp 09 776 436745 yogabeyondboundaries@gmail.com http://www.beyondboundariesyoga.com

Kan Yeik Tha Rd, Mingalar Taung Nyunt Tsp + 95 1 394 469 servicedapartments.slry@shangri-la.com http://www.shangri-la.com/yangon

MYANMORE magazine #9 July 2017 / 11

CINEMA

12 / MYANMORE magazine #9 July 2017

CINEMA

Now Showing Despicable Me 3 Animation, Action, Adventure Gru meets his long-lost charming, cheerful, and more successful twin brother Dru who wants to team up with him for one last criminal heist.

Coming Soon Spider-Man Homecoming Fantasy/Science fiction Several months after the events of Captain America: Civil War, Peter Parker, with the help of his mentor Tony Stark, tries to balance his life as an ordinary high school student in Queens, New York City while fighting crime as his superhero alter ego Spider-Man as a new threat, the Vulture, emerges.

War For The Planet Of Apes Science fiction After the apes suffer unimaginable losses, Caesar wrestles with his darker instincts and begins his own mythic quest to avenge his kind.

Dunkirk Drama /Thriller Allied soldiers from Belgium, the British Empire, Canada, and France are surrounded by the German army and evacuated during a fierce battle in World War II. Valerian And The City Of A Thousands Planets Science fiction /Action A dark force threatens Alpha, a vast metropolis and home to species from a thousand planets. Special operatives Valerian and Laureline must race to identify the marauding menace and safeguard not just Alpha, but the future of the universe.

Credit to: http://www.imdb.com

Cinemas in Yangon Mingalar Sanpya Cineplex 09 260 887 035 — 36, 01 230 3 165 Mingalar Cineplex (Gamone Pwint) 09 779 054 671 — 73 Mingalar Cinema 2(Dagon Centre (II) 09 732 54 091 — 92 Nay Pyi Daw 01 251 277, 01 251 288 Shae Saung Cinema 01 252 113, 01 388 034 Thamada Cinema 01 246 962, 01 246 963 Thwin 01 372 594, 01 388 033 Mingalar 01 243057 Junction Maw Tin / Junction City 01 225 244 Junction Square 01 527 055 Mega Ace (Tharkayta) 01 556 782 Mega Ace (Tamwe) 01 554 383 Mega Ace (North Okkalapa) 09 971 750 91

Show Times Pick up our weekly guide or log on to www.myanmore.com

MYANMORE magazine #9 July 2017 / 13

new openings Yangon

Monster Shrimp Myanmar 01 Seafood, American Monster Shrimp is an authentic boiled shrimp from Louisiana US with classic cajun recipe.

113 Lay Daungkan Road, Tamwe Tsp 09 45925 8266 11 am - 10 pm

01

Paribawga CafĂŠ 02 Vegetarian/Vegan, Cafe Paribawga offers specialty bespoke furniture services for private individuals, companies, and designers, and employs the same careful attention to materials and craft. Paribawga aims to create custom furniture and installations for all types of spaces, including retail, hospitality, public and cultural environments, with the goal of optimizing comfort, function and style through close collaboration with the client.

104 Bogalay Zay St, Botataung Tsp 09 45773 7045 10 am - 8 pm

Little Yankees Asian Fusion Japanese 02

A traditional Japanese food and grill in Yangon, open for lunch and dinner.

Available for private dining and events.

No.168, 2nd Floor, Corner of Shwegondaing Rd & Old Yay Tar Shay St, Bahan Tsp 09 261 098 006 5 pm - 10:30 pm

new openings Mr. Wok @ Yaw Min Gyi 03

Asian Mr. Wok is a personalized made-to-order fried noodles and rice. Asian fried noodle with seafood, pork or chicken are available here.

G31-4, Bo Yar Nyunt St, Yaw Min Gyi Quarter, Dagon Tsp 09 77116 6920 9 am - 10 pm

Moe Linn Moe Choke 24 Hrs

03

Asian All the asian and myanmar food especially are available here and the shop is open for 24 hours. Suitable for those who went out the whole night and finding some food.

31A Kan Yeik Tha St, Mayangon Tsp 09 777777817 24 Hours

Hotpot Valley Chinese A newly opened Hotpot place at Shwegonedaing, serving Chinese style hotpot with mala and Ala carte menu also.

239 East Shwe Gone Taing Road, Bahan Tsp 09 762 356383 12 pm - 10 pm

Mala Wok 04 Chinese Another Mala Xiang Guo & Mala Hot Pot at one shop. All the categorized items you choose are charged on per gram base.

B-10, Myanmar Culture Valley, U Wisara Rd, Dagon Tsp 09 42004 3900 10 am - 10 pm

04

BRIEFINGS Yangon

Yangon

Activity

Sports

CANE AND ABLE Mahamuni Caneball Festival

By Susan Bailey

By Susan Bailey

Entering its 89th year, the 2017 chinlone festival in Mandalay looks to be the best one yet. This year more than 1500 teams from around the country as well as other parts of the world will gather near the Mahamuni pagoda to play Myanmar’s traditional sport. For 48 days in the month of Waso, teams will display their talent on the round caneball courts while thousands of fans cheer them on.

For those unfamiliar with the sport, chinlone is played using a hollow ball woven from cane and measuring around 6 inches in diameter. The goal is to keep the ball aloft, using six contact points: the knee, toes, inside and outside edge of the foot, the sole of the foot and the heel. There are three main variations of the game. The most common, and the one on display at the upcoming Mahamuni festival, is chin wine. In chin wine, six players stand inside a round court and try to keep the ball aloft as long as possible and within the court boundaries. While doing so, the players use as many acrobatic techniques as possible to impress the audience and judges.

In addition to the visual spectacle of chin lone, it is traditional to have a live Myanmar orchestra playing alongside. At the Waso festival the sound of traditional drums and gongs can be heard from far away, tapping out the rhythms of the ball’s movement and beckoning fans to the flanks of Mahamuni.

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GET INTO THE SPIRIT OF MANDALAY’S NAT FESTIVALS

The main dates of the festival are 29 June – 9 July, with the best teams playing on Sundays. The competitions start at 09.00 and continue until midnight. Mandalay residents flock to the festival- men and women, young and old gathering on the edges of the courts to watch and cheer. Vendors amble through the crowds, selling cold drinks and snacks and stalls are set up in the vicinity selling food, clothes and dry goods. For foreign visitors, the Mandalay chinlone festival is a great chance to experience traditional culture and mingle with the locals in a relaxing setting. But the chin lone is the main attraction so be sure to make your way to the edge of a court for an up-close look at the graceful, skilled athletes in action.

Details: Mahamuni Pagoda, between 82nd and 84th Streets, south of 44th Street

Whether or not you believe in spirits, attending a nat pwe is an unforgettable experience. While these lively, often raucous, events can happen in any village at any time, the best festivals occur in the Mandalay region during the month of Wagaung.

Taung Byone is the first of these festivals and by far the most famous.

The celebration is in honour of two of Myanmar’s most famous nats, two brothers who were brutally killed while King Anawrahta was building a pagoda in Taung Byone. Revelers from all over the country flock to this small village for this week-long party.

Ordinarily a quiet farming community, Taung Byone changes into a bustling fair ground with food stalls, merchants, stages and – of course- extremely loud speakers. At the centre of the festivities are hundreds of nat kadaw (spirit mediums) dance, gyrate and take swigs of whiskey as they become possessed by the nat spirits. They perform on stage then move through the crowd, enticing nat worshippers to dance with them and make offerings. This goes on 24-hours a day and is accompanied by plenty of booze and music. In addition to the colorfully-adorned nat kadaws, visitors also come clad in their best- and often sexiest- outfits. It is truly a sight to be seen.

To get to the main pagoda, you will need to move in a sea of people standing shoulder-to-shoulder, backto-front slowly progressing forward- if you are claustrophobic, stick to the edges of the festival and watch from a far! As well, a bit of proper travel planning will also immensely improve your Taung Byone experience. Although just 15 kilometers north of Mandalay, there is only one road leading to and from Taung Byone and it is bumper-tobumper with traffic. The usual 45-minute trip can take up to five hours. To

avoid the worst congestion, visit on a weekday and leave the city early in the morning and plan to stay until late at night.

If that all sounds a bit too much, fear not! There are two more nat festivals in the Mandalay region later in August.

A week after Taung Byone, the revelry moves south to Amarapura. This festival, the Yadana Gu Nat Festival, honours the mother of the two brothers celebrated the week before.

The festival is far less crowded and more conservative yet still features all the makings of a good nat pwe with music, food stalls and possessed nat kadaws. Finally the parade of nat festivals moves bit further down the road to Thaung Tha Man village near the famous U Bein Bridge. This time the honoree is Bo Gyi, the ‘grandfather’ of the nats. Similar to the Yadana Gu festival, Bo Gyi’s celebration takes on more of a village fair feel but with one exception. Visitors throw tea packets at one another and, according to local superstition, if you get hit with one of these flying packets you must attend the festival again the following year to avoid bad luck.

Where and when to joinupcoming nat festivals: 31 July – 07 August 2017: Taung Byone Festival, Taung Byone Village 15 – 21 August: Yadana Gu Nat Festival, Amarapura 29 August – 10 September: Bo Bo Gyi Nat Festival, Taung Ta Man Village, Amarapura

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FEATURE | COVER

18 / MYANMORE magazine #9 July 2017

FEATURE | COVER

KING OF THE RING

By RJ Vogt

Photography by Gerhard Joren

After winning his fight at ONE Championship’s “Light of a Nation” event on June 30, Aung La Nsang stood in the center of the ring with a Myanmar flag over one shoulder and his shiny new belt over the other.

wunna Indoor Stadium. “How does it sound?”

“Myanmar, how does it sound to have a world champion?” he asked the crowd in a packed-to-the-rafters Thu-

“Thank you all for your love and support,” he added, his voice breaking. “I will never quit, I will keep fighting, I will

The screams of 8,000+ fans rose in unison, answering his query with a few more decibals of unbridled joy.

take on any challengers.”

The country’s first ever mixed martial arts champion will now have plenty of takers to choose from, as his unanimous decision victory over formerly undefeated Vitaly Bigdash earned him the ONE Championship middleweight title belt. The win makes Aung La Nsang the man to beat in the promoMYANMORE magazine #9 July 2017 / 19

FEATURE | COVER

20 / MYANMORE magazine #9 July 2017

FEATURE | COVER

“I’m not talented, I’m not good, I’m not fast,” he said, with tears and blood shining on his face, after the win. “But with you, I have courage, I have strength. I have what I need to win the world title.”

tion’s weight class, as well as Myanmar’s biggest international sports star.

Humble beginnings Not that Aung La Nsang ever dreamed of becoming an iconic fighter in his home country. Born in Myitkyina and educated at Yangon International School, he moved to the US to study agriculture science at Andrews University in 2003. While there he worked at a dairy farm, continuing a life trajectory that seemed destined for farming life. According to his older brother Nsang Gum San, family even thought he might become a Christian preacher someday – but everything changed when he discovered MMA. Just a year after he started training, Aung La Nsang had his first professional fight. A new passion was born, and he would continue fighting throughout his college years before moving to Florida to work as a migrant beekeeper.

While he collected honey and endured stings, he realized that travelling the country pollinating fruits would not further his newfound goal of becoming a champion martial artist. By 2009 he had moved to Baltimore, Maryland to work and train at the Crazy88 gym he still represents today.

Most Myanmar people had no idea about their country’s rising MMA star until 2012, when video of Aung La Nsang knocking out an opponent in the first round went viral on Kachin social media networks. After the victory, the 27-year-old fighter held a Kachin flag aloft and dedicated some of his winnings to Kachin refugees; to the people in his home state, it was the beginning of a long love affair.

“Me and most of the Kachin people started watching MMA matches because of him,” said Hkawng Dau, a former teacher at the Mai Na IDP camp in Myitkyina that Aung La has visited and and donated to.

The rest of the country caught on

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FEATURE | COVER

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FEATURE | COVER

after Aung La Nsang signed with ONE Championship, Asia’s largest MMA organization that broadcasts fights to 118 countries. After 13 years away from his home country, he returned in March 2016 to fight in Yangon, submitting his opponent with a guillotine chokehold in the first round.

That fight endeared him to the Myanmar people outside of his Kachinland home; he became a symbol of the entire country.

“When he performs in Yangon, the cheers blow the roof off the stadium,” said ONE’s public relations director Loren Mack. “In Myanmar, Aung La is a bonafide superhero.”

Champion of the people Six months after his first victory in Yangon, Aung La returned again, defeating Poland’s Michal Pasternak by decision.

That win set him up for a shot at Bigdash, the undefeated Russian champion, in Jakarta this past January.

But Aung La Nsang only got the invitation to fight Bigdash 10 days before the event, after the initial opponent dropped out at the last minute. Underprepared, the “Burmese Python” struggled through five punishing rounds, losing by unanimous decision and leaving the ring in a bloody mess.

“It showed me what he’s able to do,” Aung La Nsang said of that first loss to Bigdash. “Losing gives you an ability to improve yourself.”

In the rematch last week, Myanmar’s favorite son certainly looked improved. Just two minutes into the first round, Aung La Nsang knocked Bigdash down with a big left and pounced.

The crowd frenzied as he pummeled the opponent, and though Bigdash

would avoid a knockout and finish the full 25-minute fight, decisive damage had been done in those opening moments. All three judges scored the fight in Aung La’s favor.

“That knockdown scored a lot,” he said at his press conference, looking relaxed in front of the glittering ONE Championship title belt. “[Bigdash] is tough as nails, but my coach told me his chin is suspect.”

The entire country celebrated the win, with posts and videos of the fight flooding Facebook for the rest of the weekend; nearly 1 million people watched live streams in Myanmar, with even more tuning in to the TV broadcast.

toddler son, all wearing the national flag as temporary tattoos on their cheeks, said they were bringing their child to his first MMA fight.

“He has to see Aung La Nsang,” they said. “He is Myanmar’s hero.”

And now, its champion. Even though he’s already left and returned to his wife and son in Maryland – where he earned US citizenship in 2015 – Aung La Nsang will be back in the ring again to defend his belt, perhaps before the year is out.

Having won all three fights he’s agreed to in Yangon, he said his countrymen are a source of inspiration. Whenever and wherever his next fight is, he’ll have a nation at his back.

Outside the stadium, vendors hawking Myanmar flags and stickers did big business in the hours leading up to the main event. A young couple with their MYANMORE magazine #9 July 2017 / 23

ART & CULTURE

THE INSIDE STORY Setting the mood with interior design

By RJ Vogt Chances are you’re reading this in one of Yangon’s new cafes, lounging on a colorful chair. Or maybe you’re using some WiFi at a hotel, surrounded by ambient light. No matter where you are, one thing’s for sure – it was designed to make you stay there.

It can be easy to forget the ways interior design affects our lives, but the truth is that most of us spend 95% of our day inside spaces created with an end in mind. Most offices, for example, apply utilitarian principles to maximize space and efficiency: hence the ubiquitous cubicle, designed to create the illusion of private space without using much material.

But the real design work comes in when you move beyond targeting needs and begin trying to suit people’s desires. Forget apartment blocks and corporate suites – when it comes to the hospitality and restaurant industries, interior design takes on a whole new value.

24 / MYANMORE magazine #9 July 2017

ART & CULTURE “For me, if I walk into a hotel, it might inspire me or change my mood,” says says Raymond Chan, the General Manager for AA Interiors Myanmar (AIMA), a Subsidiary of AA Corporation.

AA Corporation is Asia’s leading interior fit out and furniture contract company for the hospitality market. The Vietnam-based organization employs more than 2000 workers and provides all in one from design consultation and manufacturing to installation: a literal one-stop shop. Its Myanmar portfolio includes Shangri-La Residence, Novotel MAX Yangon, Inle Sanctum Resort, M-Gallery Nay Pyi Taw, Samatha 5 Star Cruise, Princess Panhwar 4 Star Cruise, Avalon Cuise, Amapura Cruise, Centre Point Sule, Rangoon Tea House and Private Residences. Since September 2016, AA has also operated a 43,000 sq ft factory north of Yangon, where more than 30 workers are currently producing mill work and upholstery for the Best Western Premier, opening soon in Nay Pyi Taw, Grand Mercure Hotel and Sheraton Hotel Yangon scheduled to open in Yangon next year.

Asia. The ability to produce an entire tailor-made interior gives their clients a leg up over the competition.

“Everything you see at Novotel is our product, made at our own factory,” Nguyen said. “We work very closely with the designer before production.”

Of course, a complete fit-out for a luxury hotel can cost millions of dollars. Even if you’re just a small business owner looking for a few quick-fixes to improve your company’s interior design, research suggests you shouldn’t skimp the small stuff. A 2014 study found that 57% of participants were willing to pay more money for a restaurant designed according to their preferences, including lighting, seating

quality and color palette, among other things.

There’s no one right way to get your design working for you, though you can always learn from studying the methods of your most popular competitors. Taking cues from the local culture can also be a good place to start, though there is a fine line between thoughtful and tasteless.

In a 2010 interview with Forbes Magazine, AA’s founder Nguyen QuocKhanh offered one design tip that any business owner in Yangon should consider: he said he avoids the stereotypical “Indochine” look, complete with French art deco and Asian touches. Instead, he tries to steer his

company’s design standards towards the West, sending his teams to study trends in the US and Italy.

“Westerners make things with Asian accents, so why shouldn’t Vietnamese do contemporary?” he told the magazine.

Contemporary or colonial or even a “fusion” of both, interior design can make or break a new hospitality venture. So the next time you feel attracted to a store or restaurant, pay attention to what it is that’s drawing you in. You might catch on to the little details designed with you in mind.

As a company who supports international chains enter new markets, a core part of AA’s design philosophy is integration. A restaurant should feel cohesive, from the cutlery on the table to the lighting behind the bar. The same goes for a hotel – materials and colors should fit together to create an overall welcoming effect.

AA operates two other factories in addition to its Myanmar facility, and its Vietnam plant is considered the largest furniture factory in Southeast

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MUSIC & ENTERTAINMENT

ZENS AND THE ART OF HANNAY

By Susan Bailey

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MUSIC & ENTERTAINMENT

If you happened to be at the JamIt event at Rough Cut on 26 May, you would have caught a glimpse of one of Myanmar’s most exciting new rock bands: Hannay and the Zens. Led by Hannay Lwin Lwin, the three-piece band recently released Summer of 17, a 6-song EP of original rock songs performed in Burmese and English.

Myanmore sat down with Hannay, the lead singer and guitarist, to chat about the band’s inspirations and future plans.

Tell us a bit about the band.

We are a three piece band with me on vocals and lead guitar. Dalila Yusof (bass) and I started playing together when we were students in the music performance programme at Lasalle College of the Arts in Singapore.

Then, when I set up Academy of Rock Myanmar with my family, we hired Ko Nay Min Oo (drummer) as a music teacher. Our musical styles are similar and so we started jamming together in early 2017.

How would you describe your music?

We play different genres of rock. I grew up in a musical family so there are a lot of inspirations and influences throughout my life. There are also a lot of bands/musicians that I like and listen to. For example Queen was the very first band that gave me inspiration to start playing music. Later on, I started listening to System Of A Down, Blink 182, Dido, Matchbox 20, Avenged Sevenfold, Halestorm and many, many more. You can hear these influences in the music that we write and play.

You mention your musical family. Your father, Ringo, is one of Myanmar’s legendary rockers and your brother, Han HtueLwin (@ KyarPauk), is the lead singer of the popular punk-rock band Big Bag. Do you feel any pressure, given the popularity of their music?

I don't really feel any extra pressure but instead I feel like their reputation gives me more motivation to do well in music.

It must have been interesting being surrounded by such talent when you were growing up. What are you early memories of music?

You just returned to Myanmar after 10 years in Singapore. What do you think about the music scene here?

Actually Myanmar people support local music way more than Singaporeans support their local music. There (in Singapore) the focus is more on international music rather than on local artists. And at Academy of Rock Myanmar, what I see is that the younger generation are very interested in forming bands and learn popular music systematically and that's exactly what AOR has to offer. We make sure that our students get their music education in a fun way. I’m proud to be supporting the growth of the Myanmar music scene through AOR and also through introducing our band’s music to the local audience.

Any last words for your fans?

Honestly, I feel very overwhelmed by the support Hannay and The Zens get from Myanmar people. It's awesome and we are thankful for all the support that we are getting from fans and from people in the music industry.

To hear more of Hannay and the Zens check out: https://soundcloud.com/hannayandthezens https://www.facebook.com/HannayandTheZens/ Summer of 17 can be purchased from Spotify, Google Play Store and iTunes

My earliest memories of music are from when we lived in Taungoo. I was around three years old and my father would come home at night after a long train ride from Yangon where he was recording his records. I remember my parents putting me to sleep while they listened to my father's freshly recorded songs. Sometimes I wouldn't sleep, my mother would make supper for my father and I was just there hanging out with them listening to the music.

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SOCIAL

IS LIFE IN YANGON UBER OR NOT SO UBER?

By Sam D. Foot

As you are probably aware, Uber is here! And, with the brave entry of another of Silicon Valley's hottest developers into the Myanmarket, it is time for a round-up and evaluation of Yangon's foremost taxi services: Grab Grab is a Singapore-based firm, with a business model that emerged from the notoriously difficult Malaysian taxi market. Following a rapid expansion programme, they now operate across Southeast Asia. Stealing a march on Uber, Grab has been available in Yangon since March. The company’s app is comprehensive, intuitive and reliable 28 / MYANMORE magazine #9 July 2017

in displaying nearby drivers and providing quick and accurate wait times.

The company gives the option of card payment (currently not possible in Yangon) and allows you to schedule future rides and save favourite routes.

There is also a responsive support function.

The only previous time that I have attempted to use Grab in Yangon was

in desperation at 3 a.m. when I needed a lift to the airport. Unsurprisingly, there were no pixelated drivers zipping along the virtual map of Yangon.

Next time, however, was different, and showed why most people's first response when you ask about cab services is still Grab. A search from Sanchuang provided a whole host of options under five minutes from my door. After comparisons with a few

haggle tired drivers, the price seemed to be identical to the going rate for a foreigner. Having now used the service a few times, I can confirm that, put plainly, it works, and Grab still has the comparative advantages of price, a large fleet of drivers, and a simple, intuitive interface.

In addition, the company is currently running a reward points scheme plus

SOCIAL

a promotion for the rest of May (and possibly June) which rewards customers with thirty rides at half price upon the entry of a promo code. A smart way to compete in this increasingly competitive market.

Hello Cabs Home-grown Hello Cabs have been in town for a while now, yet in April launched their on-demand metered cab service (an innovation in Yangon, a city used to haggling for a ride) with the introduction of a new app offering a relatively rudimentary interface: similar to Grab, yet lacking the polish.

My problem with Hello Cabs was simple - the app just did not seem to work. I tried multiple times to book a cab, but each time waited for five, ten, thirty minutes, and each time received no contact from a driver. Finally, as I believe in giving things seventh chances, I made one final attempt to summon a taxi with the app. Forty-five minutes later - after waiting, cancelling and jumping in a car which sat a few metres from my apartment - I got a call from a Hello Cabs driver, patiently sitting off my street. Was it time to say ‘Goodbye’ to Hello Cabs? Hopefully, my experience was just unusual.

After failing to get a cab with the app, I tried the website. It was here that Hello Cabs showed itself to be more than a simple taxi service. The company offers a huge range of rental options: their fleet contains most types of vehicles - saloon cars, vans, high-end rides, SUVs, and their services include selfdrive, long-distance rides and simple cab journeys. The company is perhaps the most well established provider in this market, and these services are not offered by Uber and Grab by their very nature. These services were not evident from the app - something that, given the intensification of the Yangon taxi market, the company would be wise to play up. My advice to Hello Cabs: stick to what you do best.

Oway Ride Another local Myanmar outfit, Oway began by operating in the more

traditional transport market, selling reasonably priced flights and bus trips throughout the country. This capability is factored into the new app - which works exceptionally well (as with Grab, the GPS lags a little and, regardless of where I want to be dropped, the app intriguingly and consistently tries to book me a ride to ‘Ward 31.’ But, as we know, the GPS and mapping systems of Yangon are not yet 100 percent reliable) and offers a full range of easy-to-use features to the customer.

A notable innovation offered by the company is the “Track Friend’s Ride” feature, which should bring great comfort to anxious parents, impatient mates, and jealous spouses throughout Yangon.

My experience of using the app was also particularly pleasing. My driver called as soon as I booked the cab - terrifyingly quickly in fact - and confirmed that he would be rushing to my door. A pleasant cruise to Bo Yar Nyunt Street ended in the driver giving me a ridiculously low price, even when compared to a local cab. And it was the same story with my later journeys: responsive, professional and well priced. Overall, I’d vouch for Oway.

Uber Uber was great when it was launched in London (and, no doubt, New York, Singapore, Tokyo etc.). It democratised the ridiculously overpriced taxi market, smashing the monopoly of the black cab and providing a service that was safe, legit and accountable to the customer. The app revolutionised the use of GPS in tracking traffic, and looked pretty damn sexy into the bargain. A few years on, despite the onslaught of competition, Uber’s simple, minimal, ‘pin-drop’ interface is still the slickest on the market, and the app works like a charm. And, after some - no doubt - hard fought negotiation from the American giants, we can now use Uber in Yangon.

First attempt - outside Sharky's, Dhammazedi: legions of cab drivers vying for custom. Also, as will be the case with Myanmar for most of the next 6 months, it was raining hard. At

times like this, it takes a lot of brand loyalty to order a ride with an app.

When Uber told us that their nearest driver was over ten minutes away, we quickly jumped into the back of one of the queued cabs. Various mumbles from the guy I was with confirmed that most people had been given the same long wait times. Not a good start for old 'Oobs.'

I tried again one day later and was picked up in a regular taxi. This is unusual for Uber who usually hire private vehicles - maybe a stipulation of the contract in Myanmar to assuage the fears of the powerful grassroots taxi lobby? (Check with Reuters, confirmed.) The ride was, unsurprisingly, exactly the same as a usual taxi trip... except for the fact that I was given the price of the journey at the end of the trip, as, after a few nerve-wracking seconds of staring hopefully at a small screen, the driver's complimentary smart device cautiously revealed it's very cheeky fee.

Overall - judging on cost and wait times - despite Uber's shiny interface and all it's bell's and whistles that work so well abroad, I can, as yet, see no discernable reason to use the service in Yangon.

competitors. It undoubtedly has the most user-friendly, well branded, and advanced app on the market. Because of this (and also because of the huge budget that Uber commands) when restrictions on drivers and cars are lifted in line with other countries that use the service, I have a hunch that Uber will prevail.

Furthermore, Uber is currently bombarding customers with promotions. If a friend signs up, you will get 5000mmk’s worth of free rides. Also, after your first ride, you will receive 50 percent off your next five trips with the company’s drivers.

And the winner is...

The big boys are now all here. I tried them all, and they were all…. OK. In the future, Uber’s entry to Yangon’s taxi market will no doubt provide a boon to passengers everywhere. However, until restrictions on drivers are lifted, when in Yangon heed my advice: keep your phone in your pocket and hail a cab the old fashioned way.

Saying this, Uber's bells and whistles certainly do outshine those of it's MYANMORE magazine #9 July 2017 / 29

TRAVEL | DAY TRIP

For a day trip to remember, head to Nyaung Chaungtha, a beach ‘resort’ located on the banks of the Ayeyarwady.

YANGON

LIFE’S A BEACH

By Dominic Horner

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A return trip costs around 40-50,000k and the journey should (our taxi broke down) be pretty straightforward.

Nyaung Chaungtha lies just off Pathein road en-route to Ngwe Saung and the other Chaungtha, and if you set off in good time, the journey should take around 2 hours.

Once you’ve arrived, just follow the pathway down to the beach through the stalls selling snacks and novelty

t-shirts and boom! You’re there. The beach is reasonably big and when we arrived mid-week we had no trouble finding a table. Still, even on a Wednesday, it was pretty busy. It’s safe to assume that on public holidays and weekends the place packs out a bit so keep in mind this isn’t an isolated retreat.

There also aren’t any restaurants as such. When you’re feeling hungry or thirsty you just flag someone down and they’ll bring you a beer or something to eat. Young men and women selling fish, corn, shrimp and assorted snacks patrol the beach constantly, so

TRAVEL | DAY TRIP

if you’re in need of refreshment, you shouldn’t have to wait for more than a couple of minutes.

But you’re not really here for the food are you? You’re here to experience Myanmar like a local and have a swim in the river, and on that front Nyaung Chaungtha delivers! A lot of people ask –quite understandably – what’s the water like? Is it safe to swim?

What we can tell you is this: it’s not as bad as you may think. We arrived early afternoon and began swimming almost immediately and there was practically no rubbish floating around – the water seemed to be perfectly fine. A little bit later, as the water came in around 4.30-5.30pm the water got a

lot dirtier as empty bottles and wrappers were washed up onto the beach.

The main reason for that is, as the tide comes in, those sitting near the riverfront find their tables and chairs gradually getting submerged and inevitably all the trash that’s built up during the day starts floating about. That aside, we really enjoyed the water. In any event, once you’ve had a few Myanmar beers, you won’t even notice.

Once the water’s come in a bit they open up the slides which are a real hoot. We had endless fun on those slides as the sun was setting. You can rent a rubber ring or even a little boat at 1000k a head, although, we should say, that the boat thing seems

kind of pointless as you can’t really go anywhere. But hey, the option’s there. There’s also a DJ stage set up in the middle of the river along a rickety bamboo bridge. They blare out techno throughout the day and we had a slightly drunken Brits abroad moment dancing on the stage and then jumping into the river below. Still, no one seemed to mind.

Nyaung Chaungtha makes for a decidedly unusual day out. It’s very much a local thing, the swimming won’t be up to everybody’s standards, and the amenities are close to zero. It’s probably not everyone’s cup of cordial. But, with that said, if you go there with the view of meeting new people, having a

bit of a laugh, having a few beers and a bit of a splash around in the Ayeyarwady (and how often do you get to do that?), you’re pretty much guaranteed a fun day out.

And let’s face it; it’s easier than going to the other Chaungtha.

Fast Facts: Distance from Yangon: 2 hours Price for return: 40-50,000k Do: Swimming; rent a boat; slides Eat/Drink: Whatever comes along Stay: We’re not aware of any foreigner friendly hotels. But, to be honest, staying overnight would be overkill.

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TRAVEL | ROAD TRIP INBOUND

LIFE’S A JOURNEY, NOT A DESTINATION

By Susan Bailey

but I admit that the not-so-romantic image of train travel painted by the Lonely Planet did hold true. Whilst trains in nearby Thailand, China and Vietnam are comfortable means of transport, Myanmar Railway is actually akin to the Lonely Planet’s description of ‘going by horse’. It is slow, hot and bumpy.

me the most. I sat back and sipped my tea, watching the vendors haggle their wares and the passengers- which ranged from monks to families with young kids- board the train.

The upper class seat I was in was perfectly acceptable: wider and softer than any airline seat with lots of legroom. But despite the thickness of the cushions and the size of the chair, the bumpiness is hard to ignore.

Built in the 1880s, the rail lines have had little in the way of upgrades so the cars sway side to side and ‘skip’ up and down along the tracks. This has been reduced a bit on the Upper 5 // Lower 6 trains which have special suspension cars but it still does not make for an entirely smooth ride. There were times where I felt I was levitating out of my seat and, on more than one occasion, it appeared that the car in front of us was going to tilt off the tracks and pull us down with it. Bags slid off overhead racks and, having removed my slippers, I found them almost two meters away when I decided to put them back on!

We then set from Bago station with a lurch and a rattle and continued our way north. The day unfolded in a similar pattern, miles of spectacular countryside and tiny villages interrupted by lively stops at ageing stations. In most places, just a few passengers were boarding and disembarking but in larger stations, such as Taungoo, the train lingered longer for more passengers to join and for goods to be loaded.

I was loving the overall experience,

The bumpiness is tolerable on shorter rides which is why Yangon’s circular train and the ride from Kalaw to Inle Lake remain popular. But undertaking a full day journey is a bit of a different story! Instead of 8 hours in a smooth, air-conditioned bus, I was faced with 15 hours of bumpy, hot travel. The difference in time could be partially attributed to the increased number of stops on the train route - but it is only one small factor. Outside of the cities,

ass

01

The Lonely Planet likens Myanmar train journeys to ‘going by horse, with the mostly antique carriages rocking back and forth and bouncing everyone lucky enough to have a seat on the hard chairs – sleep is practically impossible.’

For that reason, many tourists and locals avoid travelling by rail for long trips in Myanmar even though the price is significantly cheaper than VIP buses and flights. Given that road accidents are becoming more common and the rainy season is upon us, the train does seem to be the safest option. So on a Sunday morning, a bit bleary-eyed from the night 32 / MYANMORE magazine #9 July 2017

before, I boarded the 11-Up train in the early morning from Yangon’s central station. We trundled out of the station right on time at 06.00, through the suburbs of Yangon. I dozed off a bit in the cool morning air, not worried about missing out on this stretch of the ride that I had done several times on the city’s circular train.

When I woke up we were on the outskirts of Bago and vendors were hopping on the train to sell tea and breakfast snacks. This was always my favourite part of the journey- although the scenery viewed through the windows was stunning, the scenes inside the train were what captivated

TRAVEL | ROAD TRIP

the tracks are so poorly maintained that freight trains are restricted to a 24 km/hour speed limit with passenger cars possibly even lower. But one friendly official on the train told me the real reason for the slow speed was the obstructions on the track. When I asked him to clarify he said that the conductors often have to slow down due to people and animals, mostly cows, walking along the tracks!

As the day carried on, the sun began to make itself be known. The carriages do not have air conditioning but the cooler morning air plus the gentle breeze created by the train’s movement. But this lead to a few short naps, lots of lazy reading time and an almost forced relaxation that is increasingly hard to find in this ‘always-connected’ world.

My fellow passengers shared snacks, I bought cold drinks from vendors passing through and learned the value of a good hand-held fan!

Darkness fell around 8pm, traveling the last hour in to Mandalay in the dark. With the bright interior train lights acting like a beacon, a steady flow of insects were flying in through the carriage’s windows. But thankfully a vendor jumped on selling cold Myanmar beers and my worries drifted away as I enjoyed the final leg of the journey.

looking tired but happy to finally be putting their feet on solid ground. The journey was both beautiful and fascinating. And while I would not complain about a smoother, faster ride, I would certainly do it again- perhaps saving my next train adventure for the cooler winter months!

01 A bit of a crowd in the ordinary class Carriage 02 The slow train to Mandalay

Details: Tickets can be purchased in person only 3 days in advance. Or use an online agent such as www.go-myanmar.com Upper class: 9300 MMK; Ordinary Class: 4,600 MMK

The train’s whistle – and its brakesgave a few last screeching calls, signalling the approach to Mandalay’s main station. My fellow passengers grinned as they gathered up their items,

02

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SOCIAL ENTERPRISE

TAKING MYANMAR TO THE WORLD

By Sondang Grace Sirait

It began as an attempt to fill a growing niche in the tourism industry. As foreign travellers began pouring into Myanmar a few years ago, many were seeking mementos to bring home. It’s fair to say that between longyi and thanaka, there weren’t too many choices.

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SOCIAL ENTERPRISE

Enter Delphine De Lorme.The French artist cum interior designer had already had a successful career in the Philippines before she moved to Yangon in 2014. Soon after she arrived, De Lorme and two other ladies began a project to launch an accessories and souvenirs brand unlike anything the country had ever seen before.

Globalising Myanmar Over in Phnom Penh, Ko Ngwe Tun is yet again on another business trip to introduce Genius Coffee, his specialty Arabica products sourced from the highlands of southern Shan State.

Within the past two years, the organic-certified, fair-trade brand has made it to Japan, Australia and the US.

Yangoods, as the line is called, combines images from colonial-era Burma with 21st century sensibilities through high-quality products. For one, there’s a cotton canvas pouch printed with the characteristic leg-rowing fishermen of Inle Lake, the floating market and Kayan ladies. There’s also the metal Blue Bus clock, which features Myanmar’s old-school public bus.

With every trip abroad, Tun seeks to expand his reach and explore new possibilities.

“When tourists see these products, through its cultural, vintage designs, they think of a magical country the way they imagined and wanted to see it,” said Delphine De Lorme, Yangoods Creative Director.

Despite being originally targeted towards visiting tourists, Yangoods soon caught the attention of local people.

By now, the brand has expanded into fashion, decoration and souvenirs with products made available at three shop locations in Yangon as well as at retailers throughout the country.

That’s not all. Business is also flourishing abroad. In Switzerland, the company’s products are available both online and offline, at various pop-up shops and events, thanks to a partnership with Agent Special, an e-commerce company. In Thailand, they’re on display at Open House, a retail and lifestyle space located at Central Embassy. Yangoods also markets products through retailers in Spain, Australia, Vietnam and the United States.

“Yangoods’ dream has always been to be the first international Myanmar fashion and accessories brand. We want the whole world to experience this amazing culture trough our designs,” said De Lorme.

“We’ve conducted consumer surveys in Phnom Penh and Bangkok. We will not go with low prices. We will go with better quality, better service and attract [partners] with the flexibility of our products’ range – ground, drip, capsules and coffee cherry tea,” he said, adding,“We are going to America and East Asia soon. We are looking for local partners who have knowledge in the specialty coffee industry.”

Instead of selling raw materials, Tun is keen on producing more value-added products. One idea he has in mind is baking cookies using dried coffee pulp.

After all, he’s got a world-class product to sell. Myanmar coffee is a pleasant clean cup that’s aromatic, sweet and mild.

Aside from business visits, he also makes it a point to join international trade shows and has done so in Korea, China and Thailand.

“When we exhibit our products, we can attract customers, distributors and partners with our product quality and services. It is an effective way to explore and network with industry players. Exhibition is the only gateway to reach out to distributors effectively and at low cost,” said Tun, whose business is run as a social enterprise whereby 10 per cent of its revenue is rerouted to community development projects.

Reality check One of the international exhibitions frequented by Myanmar producers has been THAIFEX-World of Food Asia, an annual trade event in Bangkok

for food and beverages, food technology, retail and franchise in ASEAN. "With growing interest in Myanmar products with their unique flavours, Myanmar continues to be one of the key markets for visitors to THAIFEX-World of Food Asia,” said Mathias Kuepper, Managing Director at Koelnmesse Pte Ltd., a leading trade fair organiser in the food industry and related sectors, which ran THAIFEX-World of Food Asia.

“Not just that, Myanmar is increasingly recognising THAIFEX-World of Food Asia as THE launch pad to a regional and global audience, with almost 10 per cent increase year-on-year in terms of visitors from Myanmar alone."

At this year’s fair, which ran from May 31 to June 4, seven Myanmar companies were present, offering fine food, dried seafood, specialty coffee and tea products, as well as sweets and confectionery.

Ma Cho Lei Aung’s Tree Food was one of the participants, with bite-size jaggery in yogurt, lemon, masala and ginger flavours. Having had access to Myanmar’s biggest supermarket chain, through which her products are now available to the mass market, Aung felt confident to go international.

“It was there that I realised there was so much more to do in terms of permits and licenses, to be able to access markets in the US and Europe,” said Aung.

For now though, bulk orders have started coming from Germany. “The shipping actually cost more than the price of jaggery itself,” Aung chuckled.

Upon returning home, the medicine graduate became more adamant in pursuing her goals to turn Myanmarjaggery into a fine product. She’s currently looking into partnerships with organic palm tree farmers and factories, as she continues to make her way through red tapeand, at the same time, scouts for more opportunities abroad.

For Genius Coffee’s Tun, that has also been an on-going mission, which he seeks to achieve by raising awareness of Myanmar coffee and by fitting in with global trends.

In the meantime, he’s focusing on what’s doable.

“Our marketing strategy is still being developed in Cambodia and Thailand.

We will focus more in niche markets and on tourists in this area,” he said.

Endless government paperwork and licenses later, Aung broughtMyanmar’s favourite traditional dessert to THAIFEX-World of Food Asia.

MYANMORE magazine #9 July 2017 / 35

FOOD & DRINK YANGON

GO WEST!

Exceptional Continental Dishes in an Upscale Setting MYANMORE

The familiar and famous West Steakhouse recently reopened it doors to Yangonites with a new look, new concept and fascinatingly creative menu.

The steakhouse vibe with the bullhead, wood-based decoration remains intact, but in a more upscale setting. The venue is divided into two zones; the dining zone downstairs and the live-band zone upstairs, featuring different kind of bands, ranging from rock, jazz, and DJs. The upstairs zone is also available to rent for events or private parties.

We couldn’t wait to sample the new, intriguing menu. We started with an appetizer, which included mozzarella, cheese, tomato, and Parma Ham from Spain, Rose Mary, beetroot, and vinegar (8,000 ks). The Parma ham complemented the cheese well with the vinegar enhancing the taste further.

We followed this up with a variety of Tapas. Baked mussels topped with parmesan crumbs (9,800/10pieces) , parmesan garlic prawn (9,800/8pieces) , asparagus wrapped in bacon (6,000/8pieces), eggplant with feta cheese and balsamic roll (6,000). All the tapas offered something unique and special, but our favorites by far would have to be the asparagus wrapped in bacon, and the baked mussels.

For the main course, The West’s Signature “The West Pork Ribs”(16,800 ks/500gm) which is a USA pork ribs in BBQ sauce, served with potato gratin and sautéed vegetable is one of the best ribs in town. Having been a fan of the West’s pork ribs since before the reopening, we could say that the quality and the taste of the ribs have immensely improved. It is so tender that it comes off easily from the bones. The meat is soaked with BBQ 36 / MYANMORE magazine #9 July 2017

sauce and easy to chew. The portion is perfect for sharing.

Next came the highlight of the night - an exclusive item that we think you can currently get only at The West. A 30-Day Dry Aged Premium Beef Jack's Creek MB2 Prime Ribs (whole served) 1 kg, priced at 16,800 ks/100 kg = 168,000 ks ++ .

The prime ribs are imported from the US and kept for 30 days for the moist in the beef to evaporate. The rib is served in medium rare form to keep the juices intact. The tenderness of the beef and the exquisite taste is worth every single kyat spent.

The Western menu would not be complete without “Pizza.” We ordered the Pepperoni Salami Pizza (12,000) that comes with 3 kinds of cheese; Mozzarella , Parmesan, Cheddar cheese topped with salami and pepperoni.

The Pizza was handcrafted to form the dough to the shape of pizza, which

makes the dough thick and soft. The toppings were generous with the right amount of premium quality cheese to make it sticky but still easy to consume.

Moving on to drinks, the restaurant offered a wide selection of wine from red, white, bubble, arranged by Sommelier SAGA " Senior Sommelier (JSA).

If you are a cocktail fan, we highly recommend the signature drink “Basil Gin Fizz” – a gin based drink with basil leaves, topped with soda water to keep you refreshed after a tiring day.

There were also choices of non-alcoholic drinks such as ones with fancy names “Pussy Foot” (3,800 ks)-- the combination of orange juice , pineapple juice and egg white , and grenadine or “Coconut Kiss” (3,800 ks), which is orange, coconut milk, grenadine syrup.

We ended this delightful meal with Yogurt Mousse Cake (3,800ks). It was a smooth cheesecake—not too much of sweetness, decorated with peach, raspberry sauce, and a cherry. The raspberry sauce added just the right amount of sourness to the cheesecake to give a kick to our taste buds.

Final thoughts, it is, in our opinion, a major step-up for The West after the reopening, especially in terms of the food. In terms of the service, the staff has been trained well and is attentive.

We can say that The West has also become one of the destinations for high quality food and excellent experience.

Address: Building D, G12, Kabar Aye Pagoda Road, Pearl Condo, Yangon Ph: 09 962 599848 Opening hours: 11:00AM - 1:00AM

FOOD & DRINK YANGON

SOFAER & CO.

Enjoy a historic meal in a heritage building

By Sofia Raineri

Yangon’s many historical buildings, beautifully and lovingly restored, offer a myriad of fascinating experiences.

Perhaps most charming amongst them is Sofaer & Co., an old-world restaurant with stunning interiors housed in a 111-year old heritage building.

At Sofaer & Co, history seeps from every corner. Great care has gone into preserving the space’s original features: the beautiful patterned tiles on the floor, the old-fashioned bar, the original brickwork. Any new furniture has been carefully thought out and selected to complement the old world setting. The brightly lit space makes Sofaer & Co. the perfect stop for a laid-back weekend lunch or a coffee break.

Sofaer & Co. offers a special ‘Rangoon G&T Tour’ menu - each G&T has an interesting Asian element to it like pennyworth, Thai basil or local wild honey.

Sofaer & Co. is a beautiful space with great food that is worth checking out.

There are rumors that the restaurant will be hosting events in the future, so keep an eye out!

Address: 60, Lower Pansodan Road, Yangon Phone:09 44833 3499 Opening hours: 11:00AM – 11:00PM

The owners pride themselves on the freshness and authenticity of the ingredients, buying from the market and promoting local produce as much as possible. The Asian inspired menu changes seasonally depending on the availability of ingredients.

Dishes range from more traditional Asian food like the Vietnamese Bun Cha (8,500MMK), a refreshing Vietnamese vermicelli salad with grilled pork perfect for a hot day, to creative Western food with an Asian twist like the Pulled Pork curry burger with green mango (7,500MMK), that comes with Shan potatoes. I loved the unusual but delicious Asian Scotch Egg (4,000MMK), with its perfectly crunchy exterior and layer of pork meat inside that had been seasoned with exotic Asian spices.

To drink I opted for the Golden land sunrise (3,500MMK), a revitalising ginger, mandarin and honey juice, followed by a Shan coffee espresso (2,600MMK). The cocktails are not to be missed, and for the Gin lovers MYANMORE magazine #9 July 2017 / 37

FOOD & DRINK YANGON

DE’ BURMESE

Add a dash of sophistication to your day

By Sam D. Foot

Sanchaung’s newest eatery offers cultivated, fresh regional Myanmar dishes in a chic, bistro environment at extremely reasonable prices.

In an area dense with expats yet somewhat lacking in more sophisticated dining options, De’ Burmese is a breath of fresh air.

Based in a fashionably renovated traditional two-floor building, De’ Burmese is light and full of character, displaying its refinement from the moment you enter.

The menu has everything one would want from a Myanmar restaurant but with an extra dash of class. Traditional appetizers – snacks, salads, soups – are followed by lovingly crafted, authentic curries, noodles and rice dishes.

The food differentiates itself through the obvious care put into its preparation. De’ Burmese’s owner has gone to great lengths to recruit a team of experienced chefs who have realized her vision of offering fresh Myanmar home-food, free from the additives, artificial flavors and shortcuts so evident elsewhere across Yangon.

The proof of this is in the tasting: unlike many of Myanmar’s eateries, De’ Burmese makes a star of its ingredients. The lemon salad is light, crispy and refreshingly citric.

curry, and sour and spicy Mon chicken legs – each served with rice and two authentic vegetable sides.

Similarly, the tofu salad is a cultivated version of the Myanmar classic, delicately flavored with lemon leaves.

Unlike the deep-fried snacks found street-side, De’ Burmese’s tempura has a fine, light batter and a delicious dipping sauce of tamarind, chilli, garlic and ginger.

These are dishes for those looking for warm, fragrant and homey fare. The sauces of each dish being a well-balanced combination of their components: for instance, the jungle curry is served in an almost soupy gravy of winter melon, rosella leaves, fish paste, and bamboo which hints both at the care put into its preparation and the generational knowledge of flavoring of De’ Burmese’s chefs.

The set main courses are likewise delicate and finely-tuned – a marinated chicken with tea leaf, a ‘jungle style’

De’ Burmese also caters to those looking for a quick drink and snack.

Something not to miss out on is De

38 / MYANMORE magazine #9 July 2017

Burmese’s signature dish, ‘Burmese Fried Chicken.’ This is fried chicken quite different from the more familiar greasy, salty variety.

Instead, the chefs have worked to recreate a home favorite of Myanmar using the lean street chickens favoured by locals. The chicken is marinated to perfection in tamarind and tomato and then dry fried to achieve a delicious barbeque-style flavor ideal for more carnivorous diners.

Complementing its food, the restaurant also offers a comprehensive list of classic Myanmar desserts – including faluda, iced kacang, and the sweet, milky, coconut flavored shwe yin aye.

Drinks include a selection of fresh juices, tea, coffee, and, intriguingly, a choice of 90’s Burmese classics!

As with the food options, drinks and desserts are exceptionally well priced for their quality, making De’ Burmese a great option for those wanting to drop in for a quick chat and catch-up. Highly recommended.

Address: No.52, Kyun Taw Road, Sanchaung, Yangon Ph: 09 795 159915 Opening Hours: 7:30AM – 10:00PM

Reviews From Sarmal Community EASY CAFE

Manpuku Tokyo BBQ Dining The best bbq in Yangon. The meat are fresh and tasty and excellent side dishes & desserts. Very good customer service except there is no free flow drinks and very limited time but enough for my hungry tummy.

Stuck in the york street and wanna get specialty coffee around there, just went directly to the easy cafe which offers a wide range of burma coffee from Greenland, Ywar Ngan and etc,

Tee Tant Oggar

Ingyin Phoo Nyunt

Padonmar Restaurant

ASTONS Specialities Yangon Steakhouse

Had a great time at Padonmar enjoying the various vegetarian dishes they had to offer.

Particularly enjoyed the herbal salad and the aubergine salad. Must try the lentil soup and the fried banana dessert. Very authentic burmese vibe and excellent decor.Greenland, Ywar Ngan and etc,

Had a lovely time at Astons with a few friends.

The staff catered to our requirements in a very friendly way. Their mushroom soup was good.

Glad to find good choices. Loved the Mac n Cheese.

NC

This Month Hot Deals

Nidhi Goyal

GUIDE

OUT AND ABOUT

New Restaurants around YAWMINGYI/NAWADAY

By Teetant Oggar

Many see Yawingyi and Nawaday as expat areas, but to us they are a blend of both locals and westerners. The teeming crowds attract restaurateurs hoping to cash in on the diversity of the neighbourhood. Some are successful, others soon close down.

Yet the enthusiasm to start new restaurants in the area never wanes.

In the last few months, several have sprung up on almost every corner encouraging us to come up with an updated guide to the Yawmingyi/ Nawaday neighbourhood.

CMYK (2,4,99,0)

CMYK (0,85,100,0)

1. MENZO RAMEN Yangon | Japanese Tucked in a small street on Bo Nyar Nyunt, Menzo Ramen prides itself on the selection of its fine ingredients. The meat is freshly brought every morning and even the salt is imported from Japan to achieve the perfect flavor balance in every dish.

19/A, Unit-15, Bo Yar Nyunt St, Yaw Min Gyi, Dagon Township 01 220052 11:00 am - 2:00 pm, 5:30 pm - 10:00 pm 2. Food Harmony This newly opened restaurant focuses on serving Thai and Korean food. A variety of listed menus offer customers delicious food at a reasonable price in a warm and cozy downtown location.

No30, Yaw Min Gyi St, Dagon Township 09776644489, 09777900420 10:00 am - 11:00 pm 3. Le Bis-Tro-Ke’ Do you remember Le Competitor at Yaw Min Gyi Street? Well, it has been transformed into this new hangout offering a fabulous French dining experience in Yangon. The owner is friendly and highly knowledgeable about French cuisine, and the restaurant offers an enticing, all new menu.

No42, Yaw Min Gyi Street, Dagon Township 09 45285 2578 11:00 am - 11:00 pm 40 / MYANMORE magazine #9 July 2017

4. Ô'Thentic Crêperie & Wine Bar If you are a fan of French food, head to O’thentic. The place is nice and cosy with polite and attentive staff. It will make you feel right at home. The comprehensive menu includes crepes, cakes, sandwiches, salads, galettes, and pancakes.

45 Yaw Min Gyi Street, Dagon Township 09 44952 9557 8:00 am - 11:00 pm 5. Tara Thai Noodle & Cuisine If you are a hotpot fan or Thai cuisine lover, Tara is your place. Their Thai Northeastern style sauce adds a unique taste to the hotpot--spicy and flavourful. If you’re there for a quick lunch or dinner, they also serve Thai A La Carte dishes.

No.39, United Condo, Nawaday Street, Dagon Township 09 788777116 10:00 am - 10:00 pm 6. Oreno Kitchen Oreno kitchen has a wide variety of delicious yakitori (grilled skewers).

The constant stream of Japanese businessmen at the restaurant is testament to the authenticity of the yakitori. Oreno Kitchen also offers Japanese style lunch boxes at affordable prices.

No15B, Nawaday St, Dagon Township 09962922258 11:30 am - 2:00 pm, 4:00 pm - 10:30 pm 7. Mr.Wok One of the best customized fried noodle joints for both take away or dining in. Four kinds of sauces give you just the right amount of sweet, sour and spicy while you add customised ingredients to your noodles. Cheap, quick and delicious, what more could one ask for?

Next to Craft Cafe (Former Press Office Cafe) 8. Old Town White Coffee (Opening Soon) Malaysia’s popular restaurant chain earlier this year announced its expansion into Myanmar. They will be bringing in their famous coffee and Malaysian style dishes such as Kaya Toast and Nasi Lamak to the community.

30A Yaw Min Gyi St, Dagon Township 09425099134 Download Sarmal app on

MYANMORE magazine #9 July 2017 / 41

SHOPPING | GUIDE

ROMANCING THE STONE The Newbie’s Guide to Choosing Gems in Myanmar

By Brittney Tun

You may have heard of the tumultuous love affair between Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor. Liz was infatuated with expensive and rare gems; Burton was obsessed with throwing them at her. Once, Richard gave her an 8.24 carat ruby and diamond ring.

Liz said of the ruby, “It was the most perfect colored stone I’d ever seen.”

That “perfect” ruby, mined right here in Myanmar, took the actor four years to find. Forty-three years later, the ring was auctioned off at a whopping $4.2 million, setting a per-carat world record for a ruby.

Unlike Burton, most expats and tourists in Myanmar neither have four years nor a team of experts to devote to locating a quality gemstone. They must go at it alone or apprehensively

42 / MYANMORE magazine #9 July 2017

rely on the word of tour guides and translators. The biggest fear is being cheated and dropping a few thousand on a gem that is worth only a few kyats.

Honey Myint Thaung, a fourth-generation jeweler and founder of Zoria Gems, says that there are some ways to protect yourself while shopping.

The first rule is to double-check your gem. “I really recommend that everyone who doesn’t understand rubies and sapphires go to the lab. In Bogyoke Market there are a lot. It’s not expensive- it’s about 3,000 kyats.” Zoria Gems uses AGGL Gems in Bogyoke Market, who, she says, is internationally certified.

Along with authenticity, labs can advise on whether the gems are natural, synthetic, treated, as well as

SHOPPING | GUIDE

shed light on their provenance. These are important considerations when purchasing an investment piece.

Amber Cernovs, the co-founder of Mia Ruby, agrees. “Go to an internationally certified laboratory,” she instructs.

A certificate of authenticity from them would definitely hold weight.

She recommends GIA Bangkok, since certificates in Thailand tend to be internationally recognized.

Both companies source their gems from Mogok, a historically significant mining region located about 400 miles north of Yangon. “I trust the single gem trading family that we buy from,” Amber stressed.“I tested their gems with appraisers in Australia and the UK and their reputation with international colored stone experts.” She also ensures that the gems are mined responsibly. For Amber, this means that the miners are treated well and that labor laws are adhered to as best as possible.

Rubies and sapphires are commonly treated with heat to intensify their color. In other cases, the stones are dyed.

Many gems have inclusions - natural fractures or material trapped within.

If the inclusions are too pronounced, they may be filled to look more transparent. Natural, untreated gems are the most valuable. “A lot of gems here get smuggled out to Thailand, they’re treated in Thailand, and then they’re brought back in,” said Amber. “People may not even know that that’s what they’ve bought.”

It also helps to know the Four C’s: clarity, cut, carat, and color. Clarity refers to how well light passes through.

The fewer the inclusions, the clearer the stone. Many Burmese stones are hand-cut. Well-cut designs determine how attractive, durable, and brilliant the stone will be - neither too deep nor too shallow. Honey says that many dealers in Myanmar want to value their stones based on weight, whether the stone’s cut is practical or not. Except for diamonds, in all other gems color is the most important factor when choosing a stone. It’s essential that the tone is not too dark.

“Buy what you like, not what you think you are supposed to like,” instructs Amber. “Buy something because it’s beautiful, because you want a memento of Myanmar, and because you want to support Myanmar.” If jewelry for a cause is the goal, Honey recommends Eden Jewelry. “They have very good designs plus they help victims of human trafficking,” she gushes. Amber supports Turquoise Mountain, an NGO aimed at promoting handcrafted gold jewelry as well as restoring Yangon heritage landmarks.

Once you’ve procured your new treasure, you may worry about the customs process. Don’t. Both Honey

and Amber ensure that your personal items pass through customs and claims easily. “However,” says Amber, “best to have correct purchase documentation/official receipt from a licensed gemstone trader.”

Even for someone who’s family has been in the business for many years, determining the value of a stone can be challenging. Honey states that she must carefully observe the cut of stones she is presented. “In many cases, the price just comes from [their] mouth,” she reveals. If a buyer appears wealthy, a jeweler may try to raise their price per carat by as much as $500.

The same also holds true if the buyer appears to be a novice. She knows of one buyer who brings his loupe, or magnifier, with him to the markets so as not to appear so vulnerable.

MYANMORE magazine #9 July 2017 / 43

LIFESTYLE

SCENT OF A WOMAN

By Sondang Grace Sirait It was during her time overseas that she learned the art of the trade, coming home with not only a penchant for creating designer perfumes, but also with a professional diploma in the industry.

“I’ve always been very passionate about perfumes and candles. I believe they have a spiritual element that’s good for the soul. Your house may be small, but if it smells nice, it’ll bring you a good aura,” says Swe, who’s into musky, woody and bold scents.

At first, she toyed with the idea of selling imported designer perfumes.

But after finding out that the import tax could be as high as 50 per cent of the price, she balked.

Armed with professional know-how, and seeing market potential in the burgeoning repat community in Yangon, Swe decided she wanted to establish a business in candle making, or soy candle making, to be exact. The name “Koko” is a play on the name and an ode to one of her biggest inspirations, French fashion designer, founder and namesake of the Chanel brand, Coco Chanel.

Soon, Swe began traveling to Thailand and Singapore in search of vendors of organic wax supplies, most of which are American-made. A friend in Dubai helped her connect with perfume laboratories in Paris.

Fruit vendors sit on the street corner selling their wares. Quaint teashops with plastic, child-sized chairs await their customers for the afternoon.

It’s another quiet day in the busy, cramped KyaungKone neighbourhood in Sanchaung Township.

On the second floor of one of the double-storey houses on KyaungKone 44 / MYANMORE magazine #9 July 2017

Street, a bespectacled woman is busy making candles.

First, she melts soy wax, then adds dye block to the melted wax and stirs it.

Next, she adds the fragrance. As the wax cools, she places wick sticks on the bottom of the pre-tabbed wicks and centres them inside small jars. At around 57 degrees Celsius, the wax

is ready to be carefully poured into the jars. An intoxicating scent fills the room, fresh and warm yet sophisticated.

Meet Ma KhinSwe, Myanmar’s first and perhaps only scented candle maker.

A recent returnee, Swe came back to Yangon last year after spending eight years working as a secretary in Dubai.

Back home, Swe got to work, creating her own scents by blending fragrances, and at the same time, building presence on social media. She also took to registering the Koko Soy Candles trademark. An active member of Yangon Collective, Swe makes sure to always participate in pop-up markets, trade shows and other communal events.

Her hard work began to pay off. Beginning with one retailer, retroretro,

LIFESTYLE

In a way, it’s never really been only about business.

There are social aspects to it, because a lot of it has to do with involving the community around me.

more distributors caught on. Today, Koko Soy Candles are available at retail stores throughout Yangon, Mandalay, Naypyitaw, Mawlamyine, NgweSaung, Kalaw and Bagan.

As demands for her products increase, Swe needed more help. She looked around the neighbourhood and turned to her very own neighbours, who are mostly housewives with a lot of spare time.

“In a way, it’s never really been only about business. There are social aspects to it, because a lot of it has to do with involving the community around me. The job may be as simple as putting labels or packing the candles, but for these women it means a lot. I also make sure that some of the proceeds from the sale would go to help underprivileged children,” Swe says.

These days, besides tending to her elderly grandmother, whom she cites

as the main reason she returned to Myanmar, Swe is busy concocting new blends. When she first started, she sold seven different types of scented candles. That number has since expanded into 30, offered in jars, tins and tea lights.

Her latest series, released just in time to welcome the monsoon season, include Maymyo Moe (meaning heavy rain in Myanmar) – which smells like the crisp, cool freshly fallen rain –and Fresh Cut Grass – a familiar, heady scent of freshly cut lawn.

But it’s the Koko Soy Candles’ Classic Series, dubbed as Simply Myanmar, that Swe holds really dear to her heart.

The three scents– MesuaFerrea, Thanakha and White Jasmine – aptly represent her love of her home country.

using fragrance oil that was especially made for me. I sent real thanakha to a perfume laboratory in Paris and had it done,” she explains proudly.

Beginning in July, Swe will be offering candle-making classes at her workshop in Sanchaung.

“I want to educate people in Myanmar about scented candles and what they can benefit from using these candles,” says Swe. With a mission to touch others’ lives in a positive way, Swe looks passionately into the future, lighting a candle at a time.

Koko Soy Candles https://www.facebook.com/kokosoycandles/

“The thanakha soy candles are really special. The scent is original, produced MYANMORE magazine #9 July 2017 / 45

WELLNESS | TRAINING

ALL GAIN, NO PAIN As society progresses beyond basic needs, people are increasingly looking at ways to improve their health. Be it to lose weight, gain muscle or simply to stay healthy, frequenting a fitness club has become part of a routine in the lives of many. If you are one of the many who are just starting out, it may be challenging as you may not know what you should be doing exactly to achieve your goals. Worse yet, you could even injure yourself by overexertion or through improper techniques during your workout. It is therefore essential that one learns how to work out properly and efficiently to avoid unnecessary injuries and make the most of one’s valuable time.

significantly weaker with time.

Besides these two problems, there are many other factors that contribute to gym and weightlifting related injuries.

In general, the type of injuries one is prone to largely depends on what one’s workout entails. Some examples of the most common gym injuries along with their causes and symptoms include:

A workout injury can happen to anyone, no matter their experience or fitness level. Even walking can cause an injury.

The two most common causes of gym and weight-lifting related injuries amongst first timers are poor posture and overtraining.

While good posture has holistic benefits that extend to the entire body, poor posture can cause serious problems to the musculoskeletal structure.

When it comes to exercising and lifting weights in the gym, it is imperative to have good posture and proper body positioning. This ensures that when you are performing an exercise, you are maximizing its benefits while minimizing the chances of getting injured.

What’s more, exercising without good posture and proper guidance can be extremely dangerous. The first step to lifting weights is in understanding how to lift them correctly before attempting anything too strenuous. Especially since the incorrect movement of these exercises is the real reason many of these injuries occur in the first place.

Overtraining or trying to do too much, too fast, in both weight and reps, is a problem that both new and experienced gym goers face. With overtraining, the muscles don’t get enough time to recover, causing them to become 46 / MYANMORE magazine #9 July 2017

Muscle Pull and Strain: This injury occurs when trying to do too much, too fast resulting in the muscle tearing. Symptoms of muscle pulling and straining are excessive swelling and excessive pain in the affected area even when resting, and weakness or loss of function in the area.

Shoulder Injury: The shoulder is the most unstable joint in the body, which makes it more likely to be injured. Excessive repetitive motions and improper technique can cause injuries that can be potentially chronic and problematic in the future if not treated correctly.

Lower Back Pain and Strain: Bad posture, bending awkwardly or incorrect form while lifting heavy objects can cause lower back pain and strain.

Symptoms are dull aches, continuous throbbing pains or sharper intense pains. The good news with back pain is that it’s usually not as unpleasant or serious as it first seems with a qualified physiotherapist often able to provide quick relief.

too heavy for the muscles involved.

Symptoms can include significant muscle weakness, and if not treated, it can cause gradual degeneration of the muscles, weakening them and predisposing them to future injuries.

Knee Injuries: During physical exercise, the knee joint carries the full weight of the body making it vulnerable to damage. An injured knee can result in one not being able to put any weight on the affected knee, with the knee constantly giving way and with continuous knee pain even when one isn’t putting any weight on it.

Therefore, the first step towards preventing injuries in the future is seeing a physiotherapist and making changes in your behavior today. Working with a qualified physiotherapist to devise a personalized, efficient workout plan can help with this and can also have significant long term benefits to your health and wellbeing. As mentioned earlier, there is a clear link between exercise efficiency and injury prevention, and the key is to work smarter, not harder when it comes to maximizing the benefits and minimizing the chances of injury with exercise.

Working with a qualified physiotherapist to devise an efficient workout plan can help implement the necessary changes into your gym routine.

Training Ground has well trained personal trainers to help guide you through your workouts, as well as certified physiotherapists on duty. Our physiotherapists help our members with pre-existing injuries rehabilitate by providing daily exercises tailored to their needs to avoid further injuries.

Pectoral injury: This injury is frequently the result of weightlifting, and in particular exercises such as bench press, chest press or pectoral flys. It is caused by lifting weights which are

With physical injuries happening in the gym and from lifting weights, it’s important to consult with a physiotherapist to devise a personalized plan to help you recover correctly and minimize the chances of a similar injury recurring in the future.

“Physiotherapy is the treatment of injury, disease and disorders through physical methods — such as exercise, electrical therapy, manipulation and other treatments — over medication and surgery.”

HOROSCOPE San Zar Ni Bo, a former political prisoner-turned-fortuneteller, is a highly respected name in Myanmar. He’s known for his palm reading technique, birthdate and naming. His well-known prediction, before the November 2015 elections, was that against all odds, Aung San Suu Kyi would assume a leading position in the government. Read on to find out what he says is in store for the month of July.

Sunday You will be thinking of realizing a big business. The plan will be successful. Expenses will be heavy.

You may need to participate in social committees and community activities. Competitive activities will be succeeded. You will be an interest of many people. You may embark on new fields of education. New friends will be acquainted. Matters concerning others will have to be done. Your helpfulness and genuine goodwill will be answered. New businesses will have to be done. Charitable and auspicious deeds will have to be led.

Slight ill health is foreseen. Pains in joints may be occurred.

Tuesday Aims will be successful. Whatever obstacles there are in business plans, they will be overcome.

Familial disagreements can be settled. Joint ventures will be a benefit. Family business will be expanded. Temporary trip will take place. Achievements will be made using your skills. Promotions are foreseen. Improvements will be expected. Usual troublemaker at home will be surprisingly beneficent. Love matters will run smooth. Competitive work will see success.

Lucky Colors: Red, Orange, Violet Lucky Numbers: 3,6,9,4

Lucky Colors: Orange,Gold,Yellow Lucky Number: 1,3,5,6

Rahul

(Wednesday night before dawn on Thursday) You will be adapting to a new social environment. Other races will be beneficent. Business matters will be advantageous. Improvement will be made through obstacles and attacks. Accommodation and money matters are in the running.

Possessions are on the increase.

Love matters are being smiled on by fortune. Good name will be earned. Familial business will expand. New places of work and living will be advantageous. You may receive help from good friends.

Complication will arise regarding documents and accounts. Suggestions given to another will be precious.

Lucky Colors: Blue, Brown, Grey Lucky Numbers: 4,8,5,9

Friday Another’s problem can become yours. Obstacles and attacks will be great. Misunderstanding will have to be settled. Signing documents and taking responsibility for money matters must be done with great care. Personal affair will cause emotional upsets. Deviation from old course and taking new ones will lead to success. Important talks will have to be made.

Ideas and plans will go astray due to another’s broken promise. Minor accidents to right limbs can occur. You should avoid driving or riding vehicles wearing black. Accident can occur. Staff will have to do overtime work. Love matters of young people are ill starred.

Lucky Colors: Pink, Light Green Lucky Numbers: 6,1,4,5

Monday

Wednesday

Thursday

Saturday

An opportunity will be missed because a word will have to be kept.

You will be tired of mind and body due to several aims influencing you. Misunderstandings due to help given with genuine goodwill will end. Exceptional success will be made. Opportunities retarded, due to a traitor in the co-operative work will arise. Non-personal extra matters will have to be dealt with. Expenses will be heavy.

Competitive work will see success. Family wealth will increase.

Change of vehicle will occur within family. Another’s family affairs, love affairs and misfortunes will have to be intervened and helped.

You will be separated from intimate old friends. Scrutinizing and using arising opportunities, rather than plan, will bring success.

Changes in work are foreseen.

These will be for your betterment.

Business people will have benefits in buying and selling. Blocked courses will reopen. Travel in the family will be advantageous. Doing business systematically with faroff lands will be profitable. Helping health matters of another, you will suffer from your old sickness, stomach pains and ulcer. Talks will be made concerning documents and money matters.

Money can be lost or pickpocketed in crowded places such as markets. Be careful. You may have to help with another’s marriage affairs. Lost contacts with foreign countries will be regained. Even you don’t interest others, others will take interest in you and attack you. A four-month old matter is now taking shape and directing towards success. Good profit will be gained from money previously invested. Opening for improvements in life and in business are foreseen. Life will improve due to over-thoughtfulness towards others. Those intending to open private enterprise should extend and decorate the place.

Stages of improvement in life will come one after another in this period. Time should be allocated for education. Matters that have been given up since certain time will have to be recommended. Desires will be fulfilled. Money lent with goodwill will be lost. Family business will prosper. Community work and cooperative work will be successful. Improvement in life will occur in this period. You will overcome obstacles and attacks.

Family income will be good. It is a suitable time to settle face to face with those who gave promises and cheated taking time. Ill health to parents is seen. They will have to be sent to clinics or hospitals.

Physical and mental tiredness will occur. Machines will break down.

Lucky Colors: Pink, Silver, White Lucky Numbers: 7,0,2,5

Lucky Colors: Silver, Green, Sky Blue Lucky Numbers: 2,7,5,3

Lucky Colors: Green, Pink, Purple Lucky Numbers: 5,3,0,8

Lucky Colors: Black , Maroon Lucky Numbers: 8,0,7,3 MYANMORE magazine #9 July 2017 / 47