InDepth (MYANMORE) - Volume 18, May Issue

No.18, May 2016

DRIVING FOR EXCELLENCE

LAI LAI AYE

MORE ART MORE FASHION MORE TRAVEL MORE LIFESTYLE MORE DRIVE

CONTENTS

TEAM MANAGING DIRECTOR Andreas Sigurdsson andreas@myanmore.com

MANAGING EDITOR Andreas Sigurdsson andreas@myanmore.com

CONTRIBUTORS Sondang Grace Sirait San Lin Tun Tet Ka Tho Soe Moe Naing Bob Percival Pierre Peyrot Yuko Maskay Matthieu baudey Carole Oudot Charlie Turner Cat Vinton Cameron Cooper Catherine Smith Amanda Win

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY Gerhard Jörén www.gerhardjoren.com

PHOTOGRAPHY Hong Sar Gerhard Jörén Emmanuel Cat Vinton

ART & PRODUCTION Kyaw Kyaw Tun

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DENTISTRY

FASHION

28th Street uncovers Pakistani prayer mats, a fifties style barber shop and wedding dresses

Gold star dentistry in Myanmar

Hugo Boss

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MUSIC

COVER STORY Lai Lai Aya, CEO of Mandalar Minn Express

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U Myo Aung (Permanent No.00315) InDepth MYANMORE Magazine 1st Floor, Annex Building, Strand Hotel, 92 Strand Road, Yangon

PRINTER Shwe Naing Ngan Press Permit No: 00296/00371 No.90(C), Kabar Aye Pagoda Rd., Bahan Tsp., Yangon.

Captivating images and story from ladies of the Chin Hills

DRIVING

Burmese rap duo Y.A.K.

Mercedes CLS500 in Yangon

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TRAVEL

BISTRONOMY

The Moken: One time hunter gatherers of the Andaman Sea

Glutony galore

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HOROSCOPE

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TRANSLATION Murder on Pandodan Street

Ko Latt: A prolofic artist in Yangon's growing LGBT scene

QUICK GETAWAYS

ARTS

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PHOTOGRAPHY PUBLISHER

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STREETS OF YANGON

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Tetkatho Soe Moe Naing predicts your fortune for May.

Singapore

SALES sales@myanmore.com 01 375 680. Contact us on indepth@myanmore.com

DISCLAIMER

No part of this publication can be reproduced or transmitted in any form without prior written permission from the Managing Director. All details are deemed correct at the time of print, the editor, employees and contributors can not be held responsible for any errors, inaccuracies or omissions that might occur.

ABOUT MYANMORE MYANMORE® is a registered brand, produced

by Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited and the leading lifestyle platform in Yangon. In addition to InDepth®, MYANMORE® provides www. myanmore.com, city maps, a privilege card, the Weekly Guide, EnjoyIt® and KnowIt®. The mission is to create great content and experiences for visitors and residents of Yangon.

DISTRIBUTION Find InDepth at Jasper House, Manhattan Fish Market, Chatime, Yoogane (Pearl Condo), Yangon Bakehouse, Summit Parkview Hotel, Pun Hlaing Golf Estate, Harley´s and many more places in Yangon and hotels around Myanmar.

Contact us to have it distributed to your doorstep every month.

May 2016 / InDepth Magazine 3

WHAT'S ON EVENTS

MAY 2016 Whisky World Cup | Activities 20 whiskies from 20 countries, 5 whisky tastings to decide which country makes the best whisky in the world. Go to support your country or just to enjoy great whiskies in good company. Let The Games Begin!

Group B (13 May) AUSTRALIA, CANADA, ENGLAND, MYANMAR & SWITZERLAND Group C (27 May) FRANCE, INDIA, IRELAND, SOUTH AFRICA & U.S.A. Group D (10 June) AUSTRIA, BELGIUM, JAPAN, SCOTLAND & SWEDEN Final (1 July) GROUP WINNERS & ONE RUNNER UP For venue information and to book contact Yangonwhiskyclub@ gmail.com

5TH - 8TH MAY 2016 Housing & Lifestyle Expo 2016 | Activities House.com.mm will exhibit Housing & Life Expo 2016 at Tatmadaw Hall with the best projects of the international construction companies.

Other furniture items and products will be shown too. Therefore, if you are interested, don’t miss this. To RSVP, please send a sms “YES” to 09450000414.

Tatmadaw Hall - Tatmadaw Hall, U Wizara Road, Yangon | 9:00 AM - 7:00 PM

6TH MAY 2016 Foreign Bribery, Money Laundering & Sanctions Law Workshop | Activities There will be a senior officer from the DFAT Sanctions Section who will

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be here to discuss anti-money laundering and sanctions with the Myanmar Government. They will present at a breakfast workshop on foreign bribery and corruption. Speakers are Jared Taggart, Australian Federal Police Evan Gallagher, Sanctions Section, DFAT, Ross Bray, Austrade.

The entrance fee of 5,000 Ks includes light breakfast. RSVP is till 4th May at yangon@austrade.gov.au Australian Embassy Staff Complex Yangon, Shwe Taung Gyar Road, Bahan Township, Yangon | 7:30 AM - 9:00 AM

FRENCH (LOVE) FRIDAY #17 The Rain Dance | Art & Stage They are glad to present you their last French Love Friday of the season before the Monsoon! So for the very last FLF edition until the next dry season, they bring you the best Myanmar rock & French DJ set! The night will begin with the great Big Bag band and their little brother the Marionette for some pure Myanmar rock’n’roll. Then the night will transport you to the deep house of the French DJ brothers Krono until the end. Tickets : 8000 KYATS (2 free drinks). Free For IFB Students.

Institut Francais de Birmanie - Pyay Road, Yangon | FROM 8:00 PM

7TH MAY 2016 DJs: Chopstick and JohnJon | Art & Stage Berlin Clubnacht! DJs: Chopstick and JohnJon [Suol Music / Berlin] and detail information will coming soon. It is hosted by Goethe Villa.

Goethe Villa - No 8 Ko Min Ko Chin Road, Bahan Tsp, Next to Golden Butterfly Hotel, Yangon | FROM 8:00 PM

The Couscous! | Dining Couscous: a South Mediterranean dish served with various meats and vegetables. Enjoy a Glorious Couscous in the newly renovated MOJO. Saturday Lunch and dinner, 14,000 Ks for the King Couscous (3 meats) Veggie couscous available.

MOJO - 135 Inya road, Bahan Township, Yangon | FROM 11:00 AM

Rangoon Tea House - 2nd Floor, 77-79 Pansodan Street (Lower Middle Block), Between MahaBandoola and Merchant Road, Yangon | 1:00 PM - 5:00 PM

Together Festival 2016 | Art & Stage

So Shwe Party | Nightlife Join for golden sundowners from Yangon’s newest, coolest rooftop bar. Enjoy panoramic views of Yangon and the Shwedagon and an eclectic selection of live and electronic musical entertainment late into the night. Mexican restaurant Gringos’ Chillingo’s Pop Up cart will be selling delicious tacos and quesadillas all night. Free flow gold cocktails until 8pm. Ticket Price: 10,000ks. Dress to impress - sparkles, glitter and gold.

Yangon International Hotel - Hotel Rooftop Bar, Pyay Road, Yangon | FROM 5:00 PM

Rangoon Rock Bombs For HIV Kids | Art & Stage For the purpose of providing some help to HIV Infected Kids by Myanmar Helper and 7 Rock Bands including The Story, Break The Curse, I-Force, Wonder Rock, Psychological Pain, Epic Soul & Stay Close To Fear!

Maha Bandoola Garden - Maha Bandula Park Street, Yangon | 4:00 PM - 10:00 PM

Relics of Rangoon launch at Rangoon Tea House | Activity Relics of Rangoon is an illustrative book of photographs seeking to definitively capture the historic buildings of Rangoon at a time they are in danger of disappearing forever.

The journalistic background of the author intertwines evocative photography with the fate of the old city post 2011. The author, Philip Heijmans, is an American freelance journalist currently based in Yangon.

Coming Back To Rock Yangon on May 7th! Get Ready People, EDM is here! Djs - DVVBBS, Laidback Luke, KURA, Sikdope, Double U, Kendrick.

Tikcet - Regular @ 45,000ks and VIP @ 120,000ks. Contact - Facebook.com/Myanmar Lager Beer Shwe Htut Tin Compound - Beside Sky Star Hotel, East Racing Course, Yangon | FROM 5:30 PM

8TH MAY 2016 (MOTHER’S DAY) Mom's Big Day @ Sule Shangri-La | Dining Cafe Sule is preparing a feast fit for this Mother’s Day! Spoil your mom with a glamorous buffet meal for USD 38.00 net. Make it memorable as moms take part in a flower arrangement competition while capturing this special day with your family in their fun photobooth! RSVP at 01-242 828.

Cafe Sule, Sule-Shangri-La Hotel Sule Pagoda Road, Yangon

Mother’s Day @ Chatrium | Dining Treat your mother with special dinner at one of award winning restaurants on this special day. Tiger Hill Chinese Restaurant - Chinese A La Carte Buffet Dinner (USD 26 nett per person) Kohaku Japanese Restaurant - Japanese Buffet Dinner (USD 40 nett per person) The Emporia Restaurant - Brazilian BBQ Buffet Dinner (USD 30 nett per person) All meals include complimentary a glass of healthy drink or wine, gift card, 1lb cake, memorable instant family photo. Dine 5 Get 1 Complimentary. RSVP 01-544 500.

WHAT'S ON Chatrium Hotel - No 40 Natmauk Road, Tamwe Township, Yangon

12TH MAY 2016

Sans Queue Ni Tete / Circus Show Yangon | Art & Stage The French Touch is coming to Yangon and aims to bring creative Dance and Circus performances never seen before in Myanmar. This poetic show mix a collective performance of circus, dance and theater. 1 hour show, All age from 5 years. Tickets Adults : 5000Ks / 3000Ks under 16 years old. reservation@institutfrancais-birmanie.com National Theatre - Myoma Kyaung Street, Dagon Township, Yangon | 7:00 PM - 8:00 PM

14TH MAY 2016

17TH MAY 2016

24TH MAY 2016

STANDUP YANGON IS BACK | Nightlife

Autarcie / Dance show | Art & Stage

Standup Yangon is back on Tuesday.

Join for next comedy showcase with comedian Turner Sparks. Book your ticket in advance for K 8,000 or buy your ticket at the door for K 10,000.

All tickets include 1 Carlsberg draught. Limited seating available.

The French Touch is coming to Yangon! Indeed the French May aims to bring creative Dance and Circus performances never seen before in Myanmar. Four women dancers engage their respective dance specialities of breakdance, popping and waacking into an abstract vocabulary, establishing their powerful individualities on stage into the space in pursuit of territory, alliances and hierarchy. 50 minutes show, All ages from 12 years.Tickets - : Adults : 5000 Ks / 3000 Ks under 16 years old. reservation@institutfrancais-birmanie.com

50th Street Cafe Restaurant Bar - 9/13 50th Street, Botataung Township, Yangon | FROM 8:00 PM

20TH - 22TH MAY 2016 Beauty Connect Myanmar | Activity 1st Myanmar International Exhibition & Conference on Cosmetics, Beauty, Hair & Spa. New Face Of Myanmar Cosmetic’s Market - New Things. Most international flights land Yangon and it is a good location for starting off your investment.

With a wide range of menus, Yangon is also a great place to introduce your pallet to Myanmar market.

MEP (Myanmar Event Park) - Shin Saw Pu Street, Sanchaung Township, Yangon | 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM

Women in Business & Leadership Development | Activity 23RD - 24TH MAY 2016 This Conference will give you a unique opportunity to listen to truly inspiring leading women and men who will share their stories, life skills and business expertise. This is an opportunity to learn how to start and grow your business and to create relationships with others who have already achieved success.

10,000 kyat registration fee, which includes lunch, tea & coffee and refreshments throughout the day.

Register at: thiri@a-mcc.com by Friday the 6 May. Park Royal Hotel - 33, Alan Pya Phaya Road, Dagon Township, Yangon | 8:30 AM - 5:00 PM

Global Water Conference 2016 | Activity This is the international conference exhibition on water and wastewater management. The aims of this conference are to know the value of Water and to know how to solve the wastewater problem which is important for health and environment.

Sule-Shangrila Hotel - Sule Pagoda Road, Yangon | All Day

National Theatre of Yangon Myoma Kyaung Street, Yangon | 7:00 PM - 8:00 PM

26TH MAY 2016 The Feast | Dining MOJO Lounge & Restaurant team up with Marbled Black, The mouthwatering evening with high quality products and free flow wine, beer, and sides! Book in advance seats are going fast. 39,000 Ks per person.

MOJO - 135 Inya road, Bahan Township, Yangon | 7:00 PM - 10:00 PM

27TH MAY 2016 Marionette band live | Art & Stage Come enjoy the debut of The Marionette band live upstairs on our stage.

They will give you a night filled with classic rock tunes both in English & Myanmar. You’re not going to want to miss them!

50th Street Cafe Restaurant Bar - 9/13 50th Street, Botataung Township, Yangon | FROM 9:00 PM

PROMOTIONS

Scrumptiously Sichuan | Dining Enjoy authentic Sichuan cuisine made by our chefs trained in the province of Sichuan, China.

Ala carte and set menu available from 7th to the 13st May at the Summer Palace.

RSVP at 01-242 828.

Summer Palace Restaurant - Sule Center Point, Sule Pagoda Road, Yangon

A mysterious & luxurious weekend by Khiri Travel You have the chance to experience the spiritual facets of Yangon. They will start the morning with a quiet mind by only letting souls speak. The vegetarian lunch is served at the last Jain temple in Myanmar. In the evening, they will have Yangon Nat Walk with Htwe Oo Puppet show by explaining about Nat spirit some performances. Dinner at LinkAge Restaurant. Overnight at Chatrium Hotel. 149 USD per person.

Contact: travel.myanmar@khiri. com for more detail.

Happy Family Week Bring your whole family and spend the quality time together at one of your favourite restaurants; Tiger Hill, Kohaku, The Emporia. (only from 15th to 22nd May). Dine 5 get 1 Complimentary for Buffet(Lunch or Dinner), 20% off on A LA Carte menu(Lunch or Dinner. Reservation 09 51544500 Ext 6287 Chatrium Hotel - No 40 Natmauk Road, Tamwe Township, Yangon

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Photos by Hong Sar

6 InDepth Magazine / May 2016

STREETS OF YANGON

28TH STREET Bob Percival walks 28th Street in downtown Yangon, uncovers Pakistani prayes mats, a fiftiesstyle barber shop, wedding dresses, but not the elusive C.J.Richards.

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t’s 8.30am and the sun is just rising above the taller buildings. The cool of the early morning is gently being swept away. I am with my friend San Lin Tun, the writer. We have survived Thingyan and now want to just relax and walk the streets of Yangon. San Lin Tun is also looking out to buy an old C. J Richards book if possible. He is on a mission to make this little known English poet well-known again, if he ever was. It’s hard to know.

At the bottom of 28th and Merchant Street the Burmese-Indian drivers and workers wait with their pick-ups ready to take anybody or anything, anywhere; how about twenty people to Bagan for 200,000Ks, deal done.

Not far away is the dosa stall, one pot boiling with rice, the other simmering with hardboiled eggs; all this with potato and eggplant curry for 600Ks. Scattered along the bottom block are mobile stores, old colonial buildings, water sellers, family groceries and numerous suppliers of bathroom fittings. This is the place to buy your new toilet, sit-down or stand-up. The pick of the lower block is the aptly named Pak Store, selling all things Pakistani. Here you can find spices, rice, clothes, soaps, and high quality prayer mats (janamas) imported all the way from Turkey (8000Ks).

The owner’s father moved from India to Myanmar in 1959 when things felt a bit safer.

Across to the middle block between Mahabandoola and Anawrahta Roads, and the street becomes a shopping area for chemical supplies and detergents. Shops like One Three Five overflow with test tubes, beakers, glass flasks and pipettes, as well as chemical reagents and thermometers. If you are in to some modern decor on your shelves at home, this is the store. Out in the street the sweet smell of stores selling fragrance and flavours wafts through the air. The aroma is truly eclectic. Nearby is KoTharHla Hair Style, a single line of white porcelain barber chairs that take you back to the fifties. Here also is one of my favourite betel nut stalls,

run by a Indian lady who seems to be always entertaining her women friends, smiling and laughing, some in traditional dress.

The upper block, heading towards Bogyoke Market, is mainly taken up by white-tiled seven-story apartments, all built in the last decade, plus numerous stores selling second-hand audio speakers and electricity regulators. There are nice old colonial buildings here as well. There are some interesting shop signs in the streets of Yangon, but the Myanmar Astro Research Bureau is probably one of the best. The place never seems to be open. Maybe there is no need for research anymore; across the road is a small and friendly Buddhist temple. Small tea and food stalls line the footpaths, full of customers on their way to work. Amongst the drab colour of its surroundings a bridal shop displays wedding dresses, in pink, blue, purple and aquamarine; a jewel protruding from bare rock. A cool breeze picks up, the cold air rushing down the narrow streets to the rising heated air of Rangoon River. Flags wave and banners ripple. At the end of the street on the corner is Than Aung’s bookshop. He has been selling books here for forty years.

We ask for the elusive C.J. Richards and any of his even more elusive poetry books.

Than Aung smiles, gold teeth gleaming in the morning light. He looks very young for sixty-eight. He is very interested in the poet but unfortunately cannot help. He will keep a look out for us in the future, just in case.

Come and talk to Than Aung about books. All are welcome.

Bob Percival is a travel writer and historian now living in Yangon for over a year, after spending four years in Yunnan doing research for a novel.

He is presently completing his PhD in Creative Writing. He loves Yangon and regularly does walking tours. Bob can be reached on projectsdada@mac.com

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COVER STORY

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COVER STORY

DRIVING FOR EXCELLENCE LAI LAI AYE

Sondag Grace Sirait meets Lai Lai Aye, CEO of Mandalar Minn Express

L

isted among the mistakes commonly made by young entrepreneurs is having the ambition to be amazing and trying to do it all, only to end up creating constraint to the growth of their business. Looking relaxed at the helm of her multi-million-dollar highway transportation company, Mandalar Minn Express, it’s hard to imagine Lai Lai Aye, one of the most successful businesswomen in the country, once fell victim to that mistake.

In 2002, shortly after graduating from Yangon University with a bachelor’s degree in mathematics, the fashion-minded entrepreneur opened a store at Yuzana Plaza, selling imported items from Thailand.

The business, however, didn’t prosper. Quickly dusting herself off, Lai Lai joined the Myanmar Women Entrepreneurs’ Association where she started building networks and discovering new revelations.

“At that time, we had an assembly program in Malaysia, and it was there where I began to develop some new ideas. Compared with fashion, businesses in transportation, construction and such are closer to the needs of the people in this country,” she thought.

Starting anew Feeling reinvigorated, Lai Lai then tapped into her savings to start another business, this time in highway transportation. Thus in 2007, Mandalar Minn Express was born. The

Photo by Gerhard Joren

only catch, however, was that she had no prior knowledge of bus fleet maintenance. A few years into the business, the decisions she had to make grew alarmingly more complicated while costs began to blow out of proportion.

“At that time, I listened to whatever people were telling me without verifying whether it was true or not.

Some of the bus drivers came to me pitching this or that and I took them at their word,” she recalled. “Until one day, the man who would later be my husband gave me a wake up call. He had been a partner at a big company back then. He told me that if I continued to run things the way I was, I would be out of business by the following year.”

Within no time, the burgeoning entrepreneur rushed to change the way business was done. She had always been interested in the marketing, management and administration aspects of the company, but now it was time to be exposed to a much wider scope—though with her now husband Khin Aung joining the team, Lai Lai would soon have less to worry about in terms of vehicle maintenance.

Her bus fleet gradually expanded.

Within eight years, the company went from owning six used Japanese buses to 90 brand new buses—70 of which are Swedish-made Scania and the rest Japanese and Korean.

In accommodating growth in demand for bus services that link major cities throughout Myanmar, routes were continually reviewed and new ones added. In late February, Lai

I love my work, my employees and my customers. I treat them like family.

I always respect feedback from both employees and customers.

Lai inaugurated her 15th branch in Myawaddy, near the border with Thailand, adding two more routes and thereby bringing the total sum to 23 routes. The cities covered by Mandalar Minn Express now include Mandalay, Naypyitaw, Mawlamyaing, Mudon, Meikhtila, Magway and Taunggyi.

Women empowered As a major player in the highway transportation industry, Lai Lai maintains an active presence on a variety of networks, especially those that promote women entrepreneurs—still considered a rare breed in this country.

“There are just so many challenges that women entrepreneurs have to

face. The way we do business has to be different. We have to be better,” says Lai Lai, who’s also the secretary of Myanmar Women’s Affairs Federation, Executive Committee member of Myanmar Women Entrepreneurs’ Association and Central Executive Committee member of Myanmar Young Entrepreneurs Association.

“It’s always a good idea for women entrepreneurs to join an association, because there we help each other.

For example, I would order my printing materials from a fellow woman entrepreneur, who then returns the favor. In all the associations I joined, I’ve always tried to participate and contribute whatever I could. During the 2013 SEA Games, for instance, I donated some buses to be used for some events,” she says, summing up, “It’s good to have a network.”

Networking aside, Lai Lai’s success has also been empowered by dignity, respect and faith.

When Mandalar Minn Express began operating, it was the only intercity coach service that offered ample legroom for its passengers.

The other ones were busy stuffing in more seats. “Some people emphasize only on the business side.

That’s not good,” says Lai Lai. “I love my work, my employees and my customers. I treat them like family. I always respect feedback from both employees and customers.”

Putting her customers first, Lai Lai soon came up with more innovations. Comfort ranked highest, and with that, VIP services were launched to cater to the needs of the wealthy clientele, which covers

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COVER STORY

Photo by Gerhard Joren

special meals and alcohol beverages served by well trained bus attendants.

All the hard work soon paid off. In 2012, Mandalar Minn Express was awarded the ASEAN-China Young Entrepreneur Outstanding Award, since then, business has been getting better by the day.

It’s not only the customers she’s keeping happy. Her employees - now numbering above - are also benefiting from the employee-friendly workplace culture at Mandalar Minn Express. Bus attendants are provided with extensive courses on English language skills, personal grooming and first aid. Another policy allows the provision of microloans or loans at zero interest.

Buddhist values Her sensitivity toward the needs of others comes from her nurturing nature, as a woman and also as a devout Buddhist. Born in Thanlyin,

on the outskirts of Yangon, to a government official father and a teacher mother, Lai Lai was the youngest in a family of eight siblings. It was her late mother, she recalls, who installed in her a fervent desire to honor Buddhist attitude toward life by ways of practicing love and kindness.

“When I was little, my mom would make me go to nun monasteries every weekend to learn about Buddhism and pray. I still do that. I also try to go to Shwedagon Pagoda at least once a week to pray,” says Lai Lai, who’s now expecting her second child. “I believe in forgiveness, sacrifice and good deeds. It has helped me cope with good and bad situations.”

It’s very important, she says, to ask for prayers. When her son Ye Wanna Aung was born last year, Lai Lai shunned the idea of throwing lavish celebrations. Instead she gave donations to monasteries and charities.

As part of company policy, she also gives away one free seat each day on

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In three years I want to open gas stations for my buses. I have ninety units that must be fueled everyday. I also want to look into businesses that are related to the bus service. all of her buses to traveling monks.

These days, her pregnancy—now in its fourth month—demands Lai Lai

to cut back on her working hours, which has seen her delegating more tasks to her sister and aide. Still, between tending to her young son and channeling the inner gardener, this energetic woman can’t help but come up with longer-term plans for the company.

“In three years I want to open gas stations for my buses. I have ninety units that must be fueled everyday.

I also want to look into businesses that are related to the bus service.

Our VIP service is very popular, serving more than 3,000 passengers every day. Instead of outsourcing, I can produce the drink and food myself,” she says.

As those close to Lai Lai would attest; her enthusiasm for life is inspiring and her energy contagious. In whatever role she’s played—daughter, sister, wife, mother, entrepreneur and organizational activist—Lai Lai has proven her mark. And for now, there’s no stopping her.

PHOTOGRAPHY

PAINTED LADIES PHOTOS TAKEN BY GERHARD JOREN AND TEXT BY PIERRE PEYROT Legend has it that from the plains of 13th century Bagan, Burmese kings would cross the Irrawaddy river to raid the southern Chin Hills, where women were known for their beauty. To protect them, after they reached puberty, the Chin started to tattoo their daughter’s faces.

"

There are no more kings, anymore” chuckles Pighi Ghung Ciim, an 80-year-old living in Mindat’s ‘home of the aged’, a drafty old wooden house cared by Franciscan sisters. ”Here Chin men would never marry a woman without a tattoo. We think

the tattoos are beautiful.” And it’s hard to disagree.

The practice was banned in the 1960s when the generals took control of the country. But almost to affirm their distinctive culture, the tradition

continued well into the 1980s. Still today, in remote villages there remains a few tattoo artists.

There are 8 recognized facial patterns, each representing different local tribes. In Mindat, most are Mün. The green dye is made from soot and

Pighi Ghung Ciim (Hilong village, Mün tribe) "I had 15 children. Only 4 survived."

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PHOTOGRAPHY

local plants. “It’s very painful, especially the eyelids” remembers Phigi Läi Li Kung. “It took several months before my face was finished.”

The Chin Hills are an inhospitable, rugged region of steep mountains.

Valleys are searing hot. Summits can be bitterly cold. From June to October, the Chin Hills are swept by torrential rains and are mostly inaccessible. This has made the Chins tough, resilient. Chins were also animists, spirit worshipers, and tattoos were part of this tradition. When French and American missionaries arrived in the early 20th century, they brought

medicine, education, and development with them. In less than a century the Chin State became predominantly Christian, split equally between catholics and evangelical protestants. The arrival of christianity is likely to be the main reason for the disappearance of the tattoo tradition. Most the ladies here were animists in their youth, but later on became catholics. Today, their grand-daughters are connected to the world via Facebook and don’t want to be tattooed anymore. (‘Pighi' means ‘grandmother’ in southern Chin dialect)

Pighi Om Long Ya (Kihta village, Mün tribe) was 14 years old when she her face was tattooed.

Pighi Law Se Hing (Vomhtu village, Mün tribe) is from the same village as Mgsr Nicholas Mang Thang, Archbishop of Mandalay"

Facial Tattoo is traditionally practiced by Kcho ladies from Southern Chin State in western Myanmar.

Pighi Läi Li Kung (Yo Phong Village, Dai Tribe "It's very painful, especially the eyelids."

10 ladies live in Mindat's old age home, all have their faces tattooed. All of them are beautiful.

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ARTS

KO LATT: A PROLIFIC ARTIST IN YANGON’S GROWING LGBT SCENE

BY MATTHIEU BAUDEY & CAROLE OUDOT Being a gay artist in Myanmar has been an emotional journey. In Yangon’s growing art scene, Ko Latt fights through his work to defend LGBT rights and embrace the ambiguous mutations of the country.

A

t the first &Proud Film Festival in 2014, Ko Latt was the star of one of the documentaries. Quite shy on the stage, thin with blond hair and an offbeat touch, he he’d rather stare at the floor in front of an applauding audience. In the short documentary, Ko Latt looks back at his life, his relations with his family, with the world of art. He is often more at ease in his subversive performances, than at just being himself.

Born in Yangon, Ko Latt, 28, was raised in Mon State, near the Thai border. Now he usually hangs at the New Zero art space gallery, where some of his early paintings are

stored. “When I was younger, I used to spend my time drawing. But I never thought of it seriously. One day, a friend took me here.”

“In Myanmar, to study art is expensive”, he explains. Except here, at the Zero Art, where one can freely roam the library, filled with books about the history of world art and its protagonists. In here, he learned to experiment beyond the limits of traditional subjects, like landscapes, pagodas and the vision of the “old country”, easy to sell to the increasing number of tourists. “I personally like to do a bit of everything, I don’t want to stick to only one form of

I learned a lot about art, what I could do, who I could be. There, being gay is not a problem. expression.” So Ko Latt is painting, sculpting, performing, doing readymade or photographing.

Ko Latt had the chance to travel to Europe. “I learned a lot about art, what I could do, who I could be.

There, being gay is not a problem.”

Through meeting new people, he eventually opened up and asserted himself. “At first, I didn’t talk to anybody, I stayed on my own, sitting in a corner, I never dared to speak my mind.” With his new friends, topics and attitude were far from what he was used to in Myanmar. “If some-

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ARTS

one in Europe likes or dislikes you, he will tell you. People there are more direct. Not in Myanmar.”

In Zurich, Ko Latt attended History of Art university classes and was introduced to a new world of ideas.

“All I discovered at the university in Switzerland, these theories on art fascinated me. It actually changed the way I live now.” Something that echoes in his artistic choices. “Differences between artists here and in Europe is mostly technical. There they know how to use computers, graphic design, photography. That’s something I want to share with people in Myanmar, so it can widens the array of things they can do”.

Returning home may have been a cultural shock, but now Ko Latt has never been so active. He collaborates with a lot of young artists, his head filled with projects. Lately, he’s been traveling to perform in a number of Asian countries, including the Jakarta biennale in November 2015.

“Performances are what I like best now. There’s a special connection with the audience, there are more interactions, it looks more real.”

There are some performances that are too risky to do in Myanmar, with majority of the country unaccepting of his sexuality. Yet Ko Latt has noticed a significant shift in the culture.

“Things have been changing. Now there is the &Proud film festival, we have the FAB parties. It’s easier to find supportive people when you are afraid to come out. Gay people are not as alone as before.”

Ko Latt will use avant-garde means to fight for LGBT rights. His performances are shouts of indignation, thought-provoking stances to move the audience and call for a new way of seeing things. In one performance, he ate an apple on stage in as many ways as possible, demonstrating how perspective is something that we can switch from.

In Ko Latt’s paintings as well – a medium he still enjoys – his revolt, pain and the moments of his love life are all on display. With his boyfriend still living in Switzerland, his art helps him rid his frustration. Yet, the performer does not want to leave Myanmar and considers himself a Myanmar artist first. He uses his new skills and ideas acquired abroad

14 InDepth Magazine / May 2016

to transform and reclaim his own culture. “If I live abroad, I’m afraid I will lose my identity. Too many influences would destroy what I want to do.

I want to be able to do anything, but I don’t want to lose myself. When I came back after studying abroad, I felt like a foreigner… Myanmar people inspire me too, they are honest, goodhearted, even if some are narrow-minded.” Some view homosexuality as a curse, but Ko Latt sees these feelings coming from a lack of exposure. “They think it’s something supernatural, but most of them don’t really know what it means.”

Ko Latt often connects his family with his LGBT advocacy- his mother being the model for most of the feminine characters in his paintings.

It can be difficult for his mother, who sells vegetables at local market for living, to understand the life and struggle of her son.

“My parents do not like my life as an artist. I have a diploma in Economics, so they’d rather see me a businessman in Malaysia than doing what I do now, which they don’t understand.”

“She just worries about me, she’s

They think it’s something supernatural, but most of them don’t really know what it means. afraid of what will happen to me when she won’t be here anymore.”

Indeed, life can be tough for artists in Myanmar, and rent for a place or a workshop incredibly high. On the topic of his sexuality, he remains ambiguous with his family. “Sometimes my mom hear things about me, she asks me if it’s a game, if I’m just pretending, like an actor. I just tell her: one day, you will know.”

Ko Latt continues to share his performance art in Myanmar and around the world. His paintings can be seen in the New Zero Art Space Gallery.

DENTISTRY

HIGH-BROW DENTISTRY OPENS IN YANGON

BY CHARLIE MICHIO TURNER

T

Tun Hla is working to get his apprentices to over their lack of hands-on experience by slowly bringing them on at Evergreen. Other than poor exposure to dental surgery, there is confidence that the graduates from UMD are capable and studied. Tun Hla actively recruits those from his alma mater so they can learn while on the job, similar to his time in the US. He often holds lectures, the last one on emergencies in the operating room, and encourages his staff to attend events with guest speakers.

ooth care Myanmar is still in its infancy as an industry but one that is due to grow as top-tier dentists come to explore the untapped market. Dr. Tun Hla DDS, a successful dentist in the US, returned to Myanmar to start what could very well be the gold standard of dentistry in the country. Tun Hla graduated from the University of Dental Medicine in Yangon in the 1970s, but like many dentists, the lack of resources and a middle class customer base made it impossible to find success in Myanmar. So he relocated to the USA, where he was able to pass certification, and set up two dental clinics in San Francisco which he has operated for the past 25 years.

When Myanmar opened to the outside world Tun Hla knew he had something to offer his homeland.

He still heads the two practices in San Francisco but does so remotely as he focuses on Evergreen Dental Care on Min Yae Kyaw Swar Road.

The goal is to have a practice would be considered top-tier even if it operated on US soil, and the most cutting edge dental facility in Myanmar.

By following the codes of Occupational Safety and Health Assocation (OSHA) and the American Dental Association (ADA) he aims to provide a sense of safety that patients usually fly to Bangkok to receive.

Tun Hla also wants to act as a model for other aspirational dentists who want to practice by international standards. There are shiny pieces of Cirona equipment, a high-end German manufacturing company, in every room all results accessible digitally. The biggest prize is a CAD/ CAM 3D printer which can produce a custom-made tooth in a few hours.

There are other dental practices in Yangon, thousands of logos of human teeth on local businesses can attest to this, but few expats and middle-upper class Burmese go to

them. In fact, the Myanmar Dental Association (MDA) has struggled to get local practitioners to properly sanitize equipment and other basic health measures. "There are small things, like wearing shoes and latex gloves. And then bigger things, like not separating medical waste". Si Hla, manager of Evergreen, recounts his time in Myanmar dentist office.

While it is unclear the percentage of Myanmar nationals who see a dentist, the introduction of Chinese dental manufacturing have made routine procedures more affordable. Small clinics are able to provide high-demand services, tooth extraction being the most common, at rates that give them a sizable flow of customers. The dozen or so dentists in Yangon, with internationally recognized dental degrees, charge somewhere between USD $70 and $80 for a general cleaning. Small local clinics charge around 15,000 Ks. Cheaper service may be passable for a cleaning, but more elaborate procedures like root canals, tooth implants and dental surgeries make cutting corners more of a dangerous game.

The main obstacle in modernizing and reaching better safety standards is the lack of access to the best dental equipment. It is a massive investment to not only purchase and import items into Myanmar, but also to maintain them The appliance in Evergreen that sterilizes dental equipment was incredibly expensive to get and requires gallons of purified water to operate. Most bottled water in Myanmar was unusable, let alone tap, with only Designer Water being the water that the machine would accept. Local clinics are a far way from being able to use these high-grade pieces of equipment.

Carrere Charles-william, owner of Dental Myanmar in Sakura Tower, immediately noticed the lack of supplies when moving his practice from France. Even sterile cotton pellets, used to dry gums during root canals, are in short supply and high demand.

"Dentists in school will use pieces of paper instead, which can lead to problems months later" Charles-William on the limitations of medical training in Myanmar, "you cannot learn if you don't know how to operate equipment used everyday".

The second part of the staff's duties is keeping patients comfortable- a difficult task when many of yet to see a dentist before. The dentist can be frightening especially when large pieces of machinery are involved.

But the staff are all trained to be sensitive in this regard. The x-ray technician was quick to assure that the daunting machine, which resembles a large gun, won't shoot out anything as it points towards your jaw. Once a cleaning is over and it is time for a polish, the dental assistant soothingly compares the procedure to a car wash for the mouth. "I'm sorry to do all this talking", speaking to a expat patient, "for others I need to explain what we do so it appears in their minds".

The need for imported equipment, facilities and trained staff make running a dental clinic in Myanmar a massive investment. But as equipment becomes more accessible so will well-trained professionals. The need for dentists can only grow as long as Betel Nut stays in style. (Betel Nut leads to tooth loss and gum disease).

Evergreen Dental Care provides x-rays, cleaning and polishing for 1 lakh. They also have cosmetic surgery services.

Call 01 395 395 to make an appointment.

May 2016 / InDepth Magazine 15

MUSIC

NO U TURN

Burmese rap duo Y.A.K. continue to elevate Yangon’s music scene with messages of equality and freedom of speech

BY YUKO MASKAY

Photos by Emmanuel Maillard /ima

H

ip hop and rap have come a long way. Ask Y.A.K (Yangon Always Kingdom), Myanmar’s first girl rap duo who has witnessed the many changes during the country’s uncertain times. When they started out 11 years ago, the music scene was just growing with the government putting restrictions on the lyrics and even censoring or banning songs for “foul” content.

But that never stopped this feisty duo from doing what they love in an industry commonly represented by men.

“I’ve always believed that whatever a guy can do, I can do as well,” says one of the duo, Thazin Nyunt Aung, 32. She is well aware that sexism

exists everywhere, especially in her country where girls have no place in the hip hop/rap culture, but that’s the reason she took it upon herself to do it.

Her partner, Aye Aye Aung (aka Triple-A), 31, feels the same way. She is the quieter of the two and makes infrequent side comments and nods in agreement, giving Thazin the lead in the interview. But on stage, she is a different person, like she was born to rap. Triple-A actually started out as a pop singer and finished as one of the six semi-finalists among 60 contestants at a talent show organized by City FM in the late 90s.

The two share a sister-like bond, they say, and get into fights like

16 InDepth Magazine / May 2016

The police showed up, but we were not intimidated. We played our show even though the military was present

siblings do, but it’s undeniable that together they form a dynamic combo, with their synchronized body movements, flowing lyrics and good looks. They’re not afraid to defy the norm, perhaps a cliché in the rapping world, but in a patriarchal country like Myanmar where women are considered subordinate to men, where their voices are hardly heard and where you can be put in prison for controversial content, Y.A.K. is a rarity.

Even in their early days, when fighting for your rights was still a dangerous endeavour, Y.A.K. relentlessly fought for equality and freedom of speech. In 2014, they performed at Jamit, a concert organized by musicians to give opportunity to under-

MUSIC

“It wasn’t really about that. We wanted to give women encouragement that they don’t have to depend on men,” says Thazin. “Besides, if we see anything worth talking about, we will put it in our lyrics.”

It wasn’t really about that.

We wanted to give women encouragement that they don’t have to depend on men

Both Thazin and Triple-A consider themselves feminists and that plays a big part in their lyrics, but they say, “it’s not the man-hating type, rather an equal-opportunity type.” While they are not against marriage itself, Thazin yells a big, “No!” and bursts out in laughter when asked whether she is married. “One day I would like to have kids, but that will happen when I am in my 40s,” she adds and Triple-A silently nods.

When they’re not rapping, both of them are immersed in their full-time jobs. Thazin is a sound engineer at a studio and Triple-A is an events manager, and both love their jobs as much as rapping. Performing is more like a hobby for them, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing because they say it allows them to rap about sensitive topics instead of singing what the audience wants to hear.

Besides, they know that albums and concerts are not going to make them the money they need to make ends meet, especially in Myanmar where copyright infringement is common and accepted.

ground singers. It was risky to sing at the venue then because it wasn’t authorized to hold a concert and the police tried to ban it, but Thazin and Triple-A didn’t hesitate to perform, even granting an interview to MTV’s Rebel Music documentary, Voice for the Voiceless that year.

“The police showed up, but we were not intimidated. We played our show even though the military was present,” they say in the interview.

Thazin is quick to point out that she’s not alone. There have been many rappers before her who weren’t afraid to voice out, like her idol Acid, considered the father of Myanmar hip hop, who is quite explicit in his lyrics. In the early 2000s, she was going through a rough time and his lyrics helped her hone her skills as a poet, which later translated into rap.

“It kind of just came to me,” Thazin says, describing the beginning of her singing career.

Thazin is so passionate about hip hop that she tattooed the four elements of hip hip on various parts of her body— namely a mike, b-boying, spray paint and graffiti, and both of them have a tattoo of “Yangon

“We started out in humble homes with parents who weren’t rich. We love doing what we do and we’re fine with that,” Thazin elaborates.

Always Kingdom,” which they say symbolizes their loyalty to Yangon as the capital of Myanmar instead of Naypitaw.

With baggy pants, tank tops and sneakers as their trademark look, they seem to thrive on not exposing their sexuality like some female performers do to increase visibility. In their recently released song, Woman Crazy, they rap about how they’re “passionate about rapping, have tattoos, but they’re not slutty”—something that they emphasize frequently in this interview. “Our mission is to increase the status of women,” explains Thazin, “and let women know that they don’t have to degrade themselves to get attention.”

In their song, Myanmar Women, they pay homage to the women of their hometown by encouraging women to stand up for their rights in a conservative society like Myanmar. “We know that our music is rough. We don’t really follow the mainstream preserved for girls and our music is not girlish,” Thazin notes.

While their music is aimed at empowering women, they are not afraid to state what they see as a wrong direction in society. In their most popular song, Porn Face, produced in 2013, they poke fun at the working girls and their sugar daddies. The song received a lot of criticism, especially from girls for portraying them as money hungry opportunists.

So how long do they plan to sing?

“Who knows,” says Triple-A with Thazin adding that life may have different plans for them. They may have their own business, have kids and may not have the time to perform anymore.

Besides, there’s so much more that they want to do, like perform at a women’s prison or sing at a juvenile centre like they did last year. Just February of this year, they launched their first album at the French institute with other guest rappers commemorating the occasion.

“We’re lucky to be doing what we do and we want to do it as long as we can,” says Thazin.

May 2016 / InDepth Magazine 17

TRAVEL

18 InDepth Magazine / May 2016

TRAVEL

THE MOKEN

ONE TIME HUNTER GATHERERS OF THE ANDAMAN SEA Cat Vinton witnesses the demise of Moken culture through the eyes of one family, forced onto land through mass fishing and aggressive assimilation programs

May 2016 / InDepth Magazine 19

TRAVEL

I

n 2009 I lived with a remote, self-sufficient nomadic people whose warmth and openness allowed me to capture a fast-disappearing way of life. Equipped with sufficient Moken to communicate, I lived with Tat and Sabai, on their Kabang with their three young boys for several weeks. I was witness to some of the last years of nomadic Moken existence, a sustainable way of life that is in complete harmony with the rhythm of the sea.

The Surin Islands, to the south of the Mergui Archipelago in the Andaman Sea are home to the last, elusive Moken, who have lived as hunter-gatherers among these isolated Islands for centuries. They’re born to live - on single-log sailboats known as kabang - and die at sea. The ocean is their home and goes beyond a means of transportation or a food bank.

almost any other people on earth; they learn to swim before they walk; they have no notion or measure of time; they don’t know their own age; they have no concept of worry, and no word for want nor goodbye.

Tat could read the water, and wielding his spear from the bow of his kabang he rarely missed a beat. He bequeathed life skills to his sons, drafting illustrations in the sand, teaching them to dive for fish, to sail and make a roof with the rainforest plants for their kabang. The turquoise water and pristine beach-

The Moken can hold their breath underwater and free dive deeper than

Above: Au Bon Yai - the Moken village perched on the edge of the rainforest. Koh Surin

Right: Tat wielding his spear from the bow of his Kabang

20 InDepth Magazine / May 2016

es were the playground for the three young boys growing up as nomadic Moken, as generations had before.

Sabai gathered shellfish from the rocks, sea cucumbers from the bed, dug for lobsters and sandworms and trepanned for wild yams in the ‘fridges’ of the rainforest. At night, the singsong of Moken voices would echo across the moonlit sea. They were truly content here on their Kabang, the life they knew.

The Moken people have always tried to hide from outsiders, disappearing

The Moken can hold their breath underwater and free dive deeper than almost any other people on earth

TRAVEL

from view if any stranger came near.

Today, the Moken have no place to hide: over the past few years it has become more difficult for the dwindling numbers of nomadic Moken still clinging to their wandering way of life. Mass fishing and aggressive assimilation policies have firmly pointed them towards land, rendering them stateless. The flotillas are no more as authorities have compromised their freedom, culture and natural disposition, replacing it with dependency and isolation. Tat and Sabai held out the longest, as the very last of the sea nomads.

In late 2014 I returned to find them.

Life is far from the time that I was lucky enough to witness - and experience. They now live on Au Bon Yai, a village perched on the edge of the rainforest.

Sabai’s sight has failed so she rarely leaves the hut, and the boys are now pursuing a more conventional island education. Baba, the eldest, excels

in class but keeps the ‘old ways’ alive, leading his school friends on fishing missions in between lessons.

This is what the next generation of Moken looks like, for now, but I fear the world is becoming impoverished with the loss of another unique culture.

www.catvphotography.co.uk Sign the tree campaign: @projectmoken.com Experience a Moken adventure: www. andamandiscoveries.com/supportblc

“The Moken are the soul of these Islands and waves, the expression of a world that has begun to fade and is in danger of being engulfed by modern society. My hope is that the rains continue to come and go, so too will the Moken, from the sea to land and back again” Jacques Ivanoff.

“Conservationists are opening their eyes to the fact that the people who have loved and nurtured their land for generations are best placed to protect it. The Moken’s ancestral knowledge helped them to survive one of the greatest natural catastrophes the modern world has faced – the 2004 Tsunami.” Susan Smillie The Last Sea Nomads by Susan Smillie is a Guardian Short. All sale proceeds go to the Moken people.

Left: Life on the Kabang - searching for food Bottom: Tat rarely missing a catch - from wielding his spear off the bow of his Kabang

May 2016 / InDepth Magazine 21

TRANSLATION

A MURDER ON PANSODAN STREET SAN SHAR - THE BURMESE SHERLOCK HOLMES Episode Three: San Lin Tun once again takes us into the world of famous detective San Shar in 1930s Rangoon, with his translation of a new original Shwe U-Daung story – Pan So Tan Lu That Mu (A Murder On Pansodan Street). Ko Thein Maung (San Shar’s Dr Watson) tells the story.

Then, Dr. Sannael said and invited, "This is my landlord, Te Wah Ri. Well, come on in." We went into the room together with the man.

After entering the room, and being seated at the chairs, Te Wah Ri said to U San Shar, "I'm grateful. I want your assistance, especially I need it. By the way, Dr Sannael told you about it, didn't he?". Then, U San Shar replied, "Yes, he did. Well, who are these two people? Why do they want to annoy you?" Much trembling, he said, "It's hard to think.

How can I say it?". Then, U San Shar asked him, “Do you mean you don't know them?". Ignoring U San Shar's question, he said, "Well, come here.

Please, take a look at it," pointing at a safe box. "Did you see it? Well, I'm not that rich. But, I save whatever I have, not in the bank but in here, because I don't trust the bank. I have my trust in my own box. So, I put all my scanty possessions in this box, I feel suspicious whenever a stranger comes into my room." With untrusted eyes, U San Shar looked at Te Wah Ri, shaking his head. "When you call in a detective, you have to tell everything to be detected well.

Tell the truth." Then, this man said, "It is the truth. It is the way it is."

"Don't you have other things to say?"

"No, I don't have." With a disgusted facial expression, U San Shar looked at Te Wah Ri, "Well, Dr. Sannael, we have to go back." Saying it, and being ready to descend from the building, Te Wah Ri said, " Then, do you have any suggestion for me?".

"I want to give you an advice that is you don't need to be clam. Well,

come on, Ko Thein Maung", said U San Shar.

Saying that, we reached our house, and we went to bed.

We went down the building. After a short walking distance, U San Shar said, "It's like I have given you troubles, bringing you here. But, the case is really good. It's become apparent that old chap didn't tell the truth."

As soon as the morning came, someone shook me up from my slumber, and I opened my eyes, and saw U San Shar holding a letter in his hand, standing at the foot of the bed.

When I asked him about the reason, U San Shar handed a letter to me, and said, " It's about yesterday's Pansodan case. That's why I told you. Here it is, read this. The coach is waiting downstairs. Hurry up.". On reading it, I saw that it was scribbled with pencil hurriedly.

"I can't figure it out anyway."

"The case is like this. It includes at least two persons. Maybe more. In my opinion, the two men who came to Dr. Sannael and this man must have born animosity, so it seems that they want to revenge it. So, one man is trying to be busy with Dr. Sannael while the other one went upstairs, and looking for it. At the first time, the younger one seemed to be there.

I think that he didn't find it so that he went down."

"What about the attack of epilepsy?"

"What a man you are! Ko Thein Maung. He's pretending. It's as easy as to pretend to have the attack of epilepsy. Even I myself used to pretend like that for many times."

"Well, tell me."

"They just came here. Luckily whenever they were here, it happened to be the time when Te Wah Ri went out for a walk. On account of that, these two men had no way of knowing it was the usual time when Te Wah Ri went out for a walk. If they came here for things, they would rummage while there was no one around there. And, another thing is that looking at someone else's eyes, I can discern the idea in him. Right

22 InDepth Magazine / May 2016

Cover of Inspector San Shar by Shwe U Daung (September 1966)

now, the worry Te Wah Ri has got is nothing to do with his property.

It's true that he was anxious about his life. So, his denial of knowing of existing two persons who hate him is totally absurd. He must know the truth. But, there is one reason and he doesn't want to disclose it to me.

But, let's wait for tomorrow."

"I have an idea which may work out.

In the absence of Te Wah Ri, Dr. Sannael walked into the room, and because of footprints on the carpet, he might be able to say whether it was the father or the son who came here? U San Shar smiled and said, " I thought about that at first. Because of that, I compare the footprint on the carpet with the one of Dr. Sannael, but the footprint is much bigger than his. And the footprint shows that the tip is blunt. But, Dr. Sannael's is sharp. Well, let's stop and think about it. I think tomorrow we'll discover some more truth.".

Please come immediately.

Dr. Sannael After I had read it, U San Shar said, " Well, Ko Thein Maung, hurry up.

It seems that it is urgent. Two men are waiting in a coach downstairs."

I changed my clothes quickly, and went together with U San Shar. On Pansodan street, Dr. Sannael was running out of the building. He was grasping his own hair, and said to U San Shar, "It's done this time, my friend. " U San Shar asked him, "How has it done?". Dr. Sannael said, "Te Wah Ri committed suicide." U San Shar looked at him with an unbelievable facial manner. Again, Dr. Sannael said, " Yes, it's true, my friend.

He hanged himself last night." Saying this, we ran up the building. At the ladder, Dr Sannael said, "I'm at a loss.

I informed the police, and send men to you. The police are already there."

"When did you know about the death?"

"Early in the morning, the servant woman as usual brought the tea cup

TRANSLATION

into his room where she found him hanging dead from the hook in the centre of the room. It seems that he just jumped from the box which we were shown yesterday. Well, come on in. See it for yourself." Saying this, he opened the door so that we found very appalling scenes.

Te Wah Ri was found dangling with rope from the small hook in the centre of the room. Being fat, flubby cheeks and protruding tongue, and almost bursting wide-eyed eyes created a frightening figure.

The neck was elongated, and it looked like a stripped-off chicken so that the other organs seemed to be bloating more. He had a vest and doti, and it seemed that he went to bed before his death. Near his body, an inspector properly examined it, and noted it down in his note book.

Seeing us coming in, the inspector greeted, " Oh, here you are. Come on, and take a look at it."

Shar: " Ko Tun Tin? Is it your jurisdiction? Well, well, have you heard about the case from the beginning?"

Tin: "Yes, I have heard it to some extent."

Shar: " What do you think of that?"

Shar: "Where did you find it?"

Tin: "I think that he was too mad with fear so that he did it whimsically. Last night he slept in this bed.

Did you see that? Look at the bed.

Only when at an early morning hour, he hanged himself, it seemed. Most people commit it at this time of hour."

Tin: "From his cloths that he wore in the afternoon."

Me: " His stiffness shows that the duration of his death must be at least 4 hours."

Opening up the leather tobacco bag, U San Shar found a cigarette, and took it out and crushed it and looked thoroughly at it. "This is the one which puts Gaw Rin Gi stuff inside it from the other side of Kamma. But, these four cigar stubs are not from there. They are from the other side of Shwe Kyin."

Tin: "Here they are, sir."

Looking at them properly, he continued, "Two of them were smoked with filter tips. The rest were smoked without them. The man who smoked these without filter tip seemed very angry when he smoked them. Did you see the bite on the cigar bud?

One of them was cut off at the base.

This is the tooth bite. This body is not the one which committed suicide, Ko Tun Tin. It was done with a painstaking precision. "

Shar: "Did you find the filter tip?"

Tin: "It doesn't seem like that, sir."

Tin: "No, I didn't."

Shar: "Why do you deny it?"

Shar: "Did you find a holder bag?"

Tin: "No way, sir, there are many ways to kill a person. Why bothered to hang him?"

Shar: "What did you see something peculiar in the room?"

Tin: " 4 or 5 screws and a screw driver that I found. And four cigar stubs.

It seems that he smoked a lot on the night before he died."

Shar: "Where are those stubs? Let me take a look at them."

Tin: "Yes, I found it."

Shar: "We need to detect it, don't we?"

Tin: "How did they get into the house, sir?"

Shar: "From front door."

Tin:" No, sir. We found it closed in the morning."

Shar: "Then, they closed it after their departure."

Tin: "How did you know that, sir?"

Shar: "Cos' I found their footprints.

Well, just relax. A moment later I will explain you with more facts."

To be continued ….

Shwe U-Daung (1889-1973) was a pro-Burmese writer and translator, who in the 1930s adapted many of the original Sherlock Holmes stories, placing them in the setting of the author’s Rangoon, in a time of nationalist fervour, high crime rate and social unrest. ‘Murder on Pansodan Street’ is an original story, not an adaptation.

May 2016 / InDepth Magazine 23

QUICK GETAWAYS

SINGAPORE IN 72 HOURS Planning a trip to Singapore? InDepth offers hot tips from three local experts on where to eat, party, shop and explore.

BY SONDANG GRACE SIRAIT

May 2016 / InDepth Magazine 25

QUICK GETAWAYS

W

ith multiple direct flights everyday to and from Yangon, Singapore makes an obvious getaway destination. After all, what's not to love about this great modern city that always does things bigger and better? Expect no pollution and a low crime rate to begin with, highly efficient and conveniently interconnected public transportation, and not to mention, amazing tourist attractions.

As a cultural hub, Singapore represents a pleasantly surprising blend of Asian and Western cultures, whose influence is both visible and edible.

“The amazing thing about Singapore is that we as a country, do not have our own ethnic group. We have Chinese, Malays, Indians, Eurasians and everyone with their own religion all living in harmony. When you visit Singapore, you get to experience all these different cultures in one small city,” says Alvin Soo and Nicole Chua, Singapore-based travel writers who run livelaughtravel.net.

Not only is Singapore rich in culture, it is also home to abundant charms— something its citizens take pride in.

“Within our small island, we also have areas dedicated to greenery.

When we travel to various countries,

you are usually thrown into a metropolitan city of high rise buildings or into suburbs, where you get away from the hustle and bustle and connect with nature. Never has any other country been able to seamlessly combine both into a small area like ours,” Nicole continues.

Enough said. To make the most of your trip, we’ve listed an all-inclusive itinerary with help from people who know Singapore best—the locals!

Our panelists include travel writer/ professional emcee Jenita Darmento, award-winning beauty blogger Elrica Diona and senior advertising executive Sarah Lim. Enjoy your trip!

DAY ONE 9 AM – Start with a traditional Singaporean kopitiam breakfast of kaya toast, soft-boiled eggs and a cup of coffee or tea. For Elrica, her favorite breakfast spot is by Balestier Road, where she vouches for the minced meat noodle at Kai Juan food court, but first, a cup of Kopi-C (coffee with sweetened evaporated milk).

10:30 AM – Stroll by Gardens by the Bay and Marina Bay Sands and if time permits, check out the Merlion (Esplanade).

MIDDAY – Calm those hunger pangs by devouring a bowl of fish noodle soup at Lau Pa Sat, a historic building on Raffles Quay known for its striking architecture and scrumptious local food. Hawker centers are a must when you’re in Singapore, and Lau Pa Sat, also known as Telok Ayer Market, makes a perfect starting point.

as a place to take the airplanes and miss out on all the awesome things it has to offer!” says Sarah.

2 PM – Continue the day by visiting local heritage trails, like those in Chinatown, Little India, Kampong Glam or, for a change, try Changi Airport.

“This might seem like a weird recommendation but we are known for our world famous airport for good reasons. Too many people use it just

7 PM - “The best way to enjoy Singapore would be to eat like a local, shop where the locals shop and travel like the locals do,” says Sarah. If you like her advice, trail behind any queue you see at any local hawker center. It’s also a good idea to look up recommendations online and on social media.

5 PM – Wind down in the cool, air-conditioned shopping malls along Orchard Road, taking time to relax and browse at its endless selections of goods. Mustafa Centre also makes another great shopping destination.

9 PM – End the day by soaking up some evening fun. “If your pockets are lined, go to some fancy restaurants or buffet at Marina Bay Sands and then head up to party at the club there. That will cost a minimum of $150 but the view is definitely worth a visit if one can afford it!” urges Sarah.

DAY TWO 7:30 AM – Start the day early by heading to Universal Studios Singapore, where you can indulge in many movie-themed attractions. Most people would spend all day here, but we want you to make the most of your short visit, so why not keep it to half-day?

1 PM - It’s time to sample some more local delicacies. Among must-

26 InDepth Magazine / May 2016

QUICK GETAWAYS

try dishes are chicken rice, chili crab and laksa (Peranakan noodle cooked in coconut milk).

4 PM – Enjoy your afternoon coffee, perhaps even extending it until dinnertime, at one of the trendy cafes at Ann Siang Hill or Dempsey Hill.

7 PM – “If you’re up for some adventure, try hiking Mount Faber at night,” suggests Jenita. Overlooking the Telok Blangah area, its summit is accessible by car, but there are many footpaths or trails leading up the hill.

Start from Marang Road at the Harbourfront MRT Station.

3 PM – Head to the stunning National Museum of Singapore, where you’ll find intriguing stories about how the country was founded and developed, as well as more contemporary displays. Stick around for an early dinner of fusion Asian dishes at Food For Thought, a café located at the museum.

6 PM – Let’s burn off those extra calories you’ve gained in the past three days. At East Coast Park, bicycles are available for rent for as low as SGD 10. Cycling around Singapore at night will introduce a different perspective of the city while making you feel good as you bid adieu to the Lion City.

DAY THREE 8 AM – Eating at a local kopitiam promises more than just a good start to the day. “It also allows you to soak up three things at once: food, sights and sounds. Listen to how the coffee lady shouts your order to her colleague, but be warned, even though locals can be friendly they can be very shy upon approach,” Sarah says.

9:30 AM – Foodies would definitely appreciate learning how to make classic Singaporean dishes. Food Playground in Chinatown is the place to go for a short local cooking course.

1 PM – Since you’re in the area, why not stay for lunch? Known for its heritage architecture and winding streets, the area is also home to a multitude of excellent dining options, whatever you may fancy.

TIPS Seasoned travel writers and true blue Singaporeans Alvin Soo and Nicole Chua share some tips on making the most of your stay in their hometown. #1 Pick up a little Singlish (Singaporean English) Most people think that by ending lah behind a sentence it means Singlish. But using lah is very different form using leh, lor or meh. For example, can lah means, “Yes”; can meh means, “Are you certain?” and can hor means, “Are you sure?” #2 Get off the beaten path There are quite a few hidden gems in Singapore such as the Henderson Waves Bridge. But more notably is

the Treetop Walk, a 10-km walkway on a freestanding suspension bridge that allows you connect with nature and walk amongst the trees, literally. #3 Share some fun with the little ones too Head to the award-winning Zoological Gardens and the world’s first wildlife night park, Night Safari, the Singapore Flyer or the amphibious duck tour. #4 Look for accommodation deals Avoid staying at high end branded hotels with rooms that could easily cost you an arm or a leg. You can either use AirBnb or stay at hostels such as Adler Hostel, which promises that your relatively cheaper stay does not mean that you would have to compromise on comfort or luxury.

Inside A Singaporean Mind On the streets, social media and beyond, Singaporean youth are finding ever more platforms to express their thoughts. One of them is popular blogger Tiffany Yong, whose writings depict her animated mind trip, often self-deprecating humor, quirky observations about life and endless positivity. Listed among the Top 50 Bloggers in Singapore, she talks to InDepth about what makes her country special.

Some people believe cities are like people, each bearing their own personality. What’s Singapore’s personality?

I think Singapore is a broad-minded, adaptable, practical, sociable yet reserved country. Singapore is a huge cultural melting pot with loads of “fusion” of personality. With the different races and religions in Singapore, we are receptive and adaptive to all sorts of trends and changes.

Yet, for political and economic stability, we are reserved and slow to changes in many ways. Our leaders are careful to introduce bold changes hence, the slow development in various aspects.

What are some common misconceptions about Singaporeans?

I believe one common misconception about Singaporeans is that they are boring and like to complain. I think Singaporeans can be fun loving when they want to be. As for complaining, who doesn't grumble or whine about their day when it's bad!

It’s only human!

What makes you a proud Singaporean?

I don’t think I need a reason to love my country. It is safe, we have our own unique English, we have the best airlines, great passport, delicious food, stable economy, best education system and also given the fact that there are so many celebrities who want to be Singaporeans, like Jet Li, Gong Li, Vicki Zhao, Eduardo Saverin, Vivian Hsu and more!

Oops, did I just list a series of reasons?

May 2016 / InDepth Magazine 27

FASHION

BOSS GREEN

BEATING THE HEAT IN STYLE

N

ow that the hot season is here, so returns the classic fashion dilemma of how to keep and look cool, without resorting to baggy shorts and undershirts and thus committing an egregious fashion sin. For all the fashion-conscious gentlemen out there, it means beating the heat in style while looking presentable yet comfortable.

That’s where BOSS Green comes in.

Designed for men who search for quality, style and performance, the label represents premium sportswear-meets-leisurewear in line with the luxurious image of its parent brand, the German luxury fashion house Hugo Boss AG, as apparent in its series of collections that are in all attractive, colorful, sporty, dynamic, functional, smart and innovative.

For its Spring/Summer 2016 collection, BOSS Green presents a continuation of its pre-Spring design theme of Digital Safari – Tech expedition, inspired by a luxurious long weekend safari and an adventure of the Sahara desert.

Think a mix of sandy, rocky desert alongside technical gadgets that help you navigate to your ultimate holiday destination for fun, relaxation, adventure and active golfing— all translated into carefully fabricated garments with multifunctional details on top and special features such as reversibility, detachability and technical ability.

As sportswear weaves its way into the very threads of luxury menswear fashion, catwalks have gotten their fair share of sportification in recent

28 InDepth Magazine / May 2016

years, with patrons seeking clothes to carry them from the morning run to an evening out on the town.

That’s why, golfers or not, men living an active lifestyle will surely appreciate the practicalities offered

by BOSS Green for golf and general lifestyle, as well as its success in marrying fashion with sport.

Meet summer head on by adding some lightweight jackets to your wardrobe.

With an emphasis on creating super lightweight garments, BOSS Green means it when it comes to ensuring its patrons of freedom of movement and comfort stretch fabrics. Its clima control feature keeps the body cool when the temperature out there is soaring high, and warm when cold, fashioned into active functional and moisture management fabrics.

the mostly soft touches, lightweights and fresh sunny colored washed fabrics—intended to whisk you away into a warm summer’s mood.

New and eye catching is the sun bleached leitmotif, as seen through

The first three months of the year 2016 have seen BOSS Green per-

FASHION

forming a total of three color statements. January was all about navy, grey mélange as well as blue and a hint of fresh grass green as an accent. February brought an early preview of summer warmth by featuring a warm dark grey as a base, lots of white, some beige and two tones of sunny coral red—one brighter and the other with a touch of pastel to it.

March came on strong with black as a summer dark base, white to freshen, olive green and a sporty combination of bright aqua and warm sunny summer yellow.

Meet summer head on by adding some lightweight jackets to your wardrobe.

Our favorite, weather-friendly summer outerwear collections at BOSS Green promise a casual look and feel of the season as well as keeping you from sweltering.

Check out its Jaxton collection made using fascinating body mapping perforation technology placed on super fine woven nylon, combined with matte embossed fabric and decorative outside taping, underlining the lightness and sportiness. Don’t miss out on Jossato, which highlights the gradient trend with a glossy dotted panel print as a fashionable and sporty approach. You’ll find in both styles a more contemporary revamp that speaks of a cool high fashion twist.

Further inspired by freedom of movement and versatility, BOSS Green Jersey collection shows off cool design details in sweats and polo shirts. Dubbed as a wardrobe

staple, polo shirts are especially versatile and timeless. Over jeans, pants or a suit, they’ll carry you through formal and casual dates. While plain, neutral colors are the easiest to pair with anything, this season it’s time to kick it up a notch.

An exceptional botanic print joins technology and nature together and runs through the range only to accelerate to the max within the Jersey collection. You’ll find it applied as allover print on polo shirts, sweats, detail prints and graphics. Also look out for jerseys with nylon details combined with eye-catching graphics and all overs, zebra stripe details, printed or knitted body-mapping parts.

Another must-have in your summer wardrobe this year, if not at all times, is a shirt. As the folks at GQ and fashionsbeans.com put it, this

season the fashion takes you back to the 1950s, taking inspiration from your grandfather’s favorite shortsleeved shirt.

At BOSS Green, shirts too score big this season, through a large range of slim fits and modern fit shirts in enzyme sand washes for an extra smooth and soft feel to the touch.

Keep in mind though, that no matter the season, always make sure to keep the cut fitted and the style low-key—and to neatly tuck the shirt into a slightly looser-leg trouser for a full retro effect.

Qualities and patterns to look out for are classic Oxford, summer linen blends, vichy, bold macro checks, structured and non-structured mixes, as well as fine line mini stripes executed on soft touch jersey base.

To complete the look, pick a pair of casual ice washed satin chinos made with luxurious fine Italian jersey qualities and, not to mention, high breathability, water repellency and comfort-stretch fabrics. Chinos, field jackets and bush shirts all work well together for an urban expedition look.

Hugo Boss AG started as a clothing company in Metzingen, Germany, in 1924. Despite an episode of bankruptcy early on, thanks to the ingenuity of its owner, the late Hugo Boss, and later, his son-in-law and grandsons, the company managed to survive and expanded interna-

tionally into subsidiaries across Europe, the Middle East and Africa, the Americas and Asia Pacific.

In 1970, the first Boss branded suits were produced, followed by the start of the company’s long association with motorsport, sponsoring Formula One driver Niki Lauda and the McLaren Racing team. Since 2011, Hugo Boss has been the official fashion designer for the German national football team, known as one of the most successful national teams in international competitions—presenting each team member with suits for formal events as well as casual outfits.

At April 2nd 2016, the Avenue had a launching party for a new brand called Hugo Boss Green by Hugo Boss.

This athletically-inspired sportswear brand, Hugo Boss Green, is made especially for golf players.In addition, what’s special about the party is that the party-comers had a small golf competition on a mini golf course during the ceremony.

The prices of Hugo Boss Green range from 140,000 Ks to 300,000 KS. The designs of the brand can also range from elegant and classy to casual and cool.

The Avenue No. 18A, Kohmin Kohchin Road, Bahan Township, Yangon Ph: 01-860-3337, 01-545-929

May 2016 / InDepth Magazine 29

DRIVING

STYLE AND

SUBSTANCE Beauty, brains and brawn. DRIVE’s Chief Editor Cameron Cooper spends a week driving the Mercedes CLS 500 around Yangon and Naypyidaw, plumbing the depths of its multiple personalities.

Photo by Gerhard Joren

30 InDepth Magazine / May 2016

DRIVING

T

hat’s enough!! Slow down slow down slowdoooown!!!”

These were the words of renowned travel writer Joe Cummings (whose story on our trip to Naypyidaw in this very automobile can be found in this issue,) in response to me stomping my foot to the floor of a Mercedes-Benz CLS500 on a rare open stretch of Yangon road.

Joe is not normally a panicky guy at all. Never before have I heard him scream in terror, which is testament to the brazen power of the CLS 500’s turbocharged 4.7 litre 8-cylinder engine when it’s let off its leash.

From a standstill, in just a few seconds (4.9 seconds, to be precise), we were travelling at highway speed, and since we were swiftly catching up on the next wave of cars up ahead, I had to put a firm foot to the brakes – which pull even more strongly than the engine, though in the other direction, of course. The car remained settled, almost sedate.

Other than the G-forces that tossed us around a bit, in accordance with the laws of nature, the car itself behaved as if it was a Sunday stroll in the park.

Solid Luxury Mercedes has made an amazingly swift but somewhat seamless transition in style over the past 15 years or so. Benz’ main passenger car line-up, (with some noteworthy exceptions) was always an upright, stately, almost boxy car – its style a product of its engineering and build quality. Its design confidently said, “I am solid, heavy, safe, reliable and luxurious.”

You didn’t say, “I’ll bring the car around front of the house,” you said, “I’ll bring the Mercedes around...” It wasn’t just any old car. It was always the sort of car that demands a hood ornament.

Flat is Fast... and Sweet But changing car-buyer tastes and changing regulations meant that MB had to start changing its shape, and in characteristic fashion, made an excellent job of it. Tall and straight, while great for headroom, is less safe for pedestrians when they get hit by cars; and also bad for fuel consumption, so Mercedes started to flatten out their cars, lowering both the roof and the floors, while somehow still maintaining that front en-

that Mercedes was not just a car for wealthy fuddy-duddies.

Grown men sat in the rear chairs for hours on end in total comfort and without complaint as we drove haplessly around Naypyidaw, totally lost.

This brings us to the CLS – the most devilishly stylish ‘family’ car Mercedes had ever built, when it made its debut just 10 years ago.

Our test car was the CLS500, all enrobed in pristine white like some blushing bride, concealing the heart of a leopard.

It is a sleek beast, giving any of its German rivals – particularly the one you are never supposed to say out loud in front of a Mercedes Benz employee – a run for its money. While the other guy had always been a bit sporty and loped along evolving its design in steps, Mercedes made a giant step a decade ago, and have continued to refine that into what is now an achingly beautiful machine.

gine/rear drive configuration (where do you hide the drive shaft?).

In the early 90s, this design ethos began to express itself in the E-Class, and then slowly spread through most of the brand’s other sedans, looking more jaunty and sporty with every refresh. And then they decided to just go for it and show the world

This one is what is known as a fourdoor coupe, which kind of defies the fundamental concept that coupes have two doors, but it is about a body shape and an ethic. ‘Coupe’ also usually indicates that the back seat will only accommodate people with removable legs, but this is not true here either – grown men (including me) sat in those chairs for

May 2016 / InDepth Magazine 31

DRIVING

hours on end without complaint as we drove haplessly around Naypyidaw, totally lost, again and again, looking for our hotel.

Inner Beauty But I didn’t care too much, to be honest. The inside of the CLS500 was a pleasant place to be. Apart from the fact that the company of travel writer Joe Cummings and photographer Dustin Main was relentlessly stimulating and amusing, you couldn’t ask for a better mobile environment.

(no space to list the all here, but reversing camera and night vision were two of my personal favourites).

Old School Power Brought to Heel There is also the power: 0-100 km/ hr in 4.9 seconds is pretty quick by sport sedan standards – even ones with Italian names. To lend some

The interior is lovely, you see. All leather clad and stitched, well padded without being overstuffed – firm yet yielding. The front seats literally massage you, the seat wings tighten in to coddle you when you take a corner at any decent speed. It smells good and it is dead quiet – unless you have the superb sound system pounding away the hours. This is a truly great road trip car.

And it isn’t just about the interior and its ergonomic comforts and wicked strength interactive computer that lets you control the parameters on what was literally about 40 options

32 InDepth Magazine / May 2016

The front seats literally massage you, the seat wings tighten to coddle you when you take a corner at speed. It smells good and it is dead quiet.

DRIVING

perspective to modern capabilities, there was only one 1990s Ferrari that was faster, and most were at least a second slower.

When I was a teenager, 407 horsepower meant dealing with some tricked-out monster of a two-tonne engine weighing down the nose (and the ‘handling’, such as it was on rusting late 60s cars driven by teenage boys in the late 70s). They hated to idle, guzzled fuel like a parched camel at the Aqaba town well, and generally behaved badly. They could only go fast, grumbling and lurching at all other speeds.

But a nearly-5-litre V-8 with a bi-turbo and constant computer control over valve and ignition timing, variable exhaust back-pressure and a host of other subtle but palpable

electronic marvels, means you can have a super-powerful engine that is a blushing bride in congested city traffic, or a speed demon on one of Naypyidaw’s countless unintentional drag-strips.

The CLS (with computer interventions in the suspension as well as the engine) stays flat no matter how hard you hammer it into a corner (the chair eagerly gripping you again). This beast was begging to be taken to the racetrack for a few unbridled laps.

Strangely though, this didn’t compare to the cars of my youth, which were heavier, slower, noisier, had three automatic gears instead of nine, terrible brakes, no tractions control, and scared the living hell out of you – which was the whole point

of having an insanely powerful car.

The CLS500, for the driver at least, feels totally planted, poised and in control when being driven hard on straights or bends. Utterly civilised. And if I have one complaint about this car, it is this: It is so well balanced, you never feel afraid (except in Yangon rush hour traffic, but that’s true of any car.)

But then, you can’t moan about a car competently managing its power in a perfectly balanced package, can you? That is what carmakers have been working towards all along. And if you want to feel fear, you can always feel it vicariously through your terrified passenger – who will thank you later for showing them how much they love to be alive... and riding in a Mercedes Benz.

Spec Sheet

Mercedes Benz CLS 500 Coupé

Petrol Engine

V8 Twin Turbo

Power

408 hp @ 5,000-5,750 rpm

Torque

443 lb-ft @ 1,600-4,750 rpm

Acceleration

0-100 km/h in 4.9 seconds

Transmission

7 speed automatic Transmission

Fuel consumption

9lt/100km

Kerb Weight

1890kg

May 2016 / InDepth Magazine 33

BISTRONOMY

BLIND TIGER: NEW LOCATION, SAME FEEL

BY CATHERINE SMITH in a rich barbecue sauce) and garlic shrimps were super-fresh and super-garlicky. Deep-fried squid with aioli was the tastiest of the seafood choices; the only slight disappointment was a fish tapas which was a little sweet for our palate.

Cocktails and tapas were inspired and – best of all – tasted exactly as described – if there was garlic, you tasted it; ginger in a cocktail – fresh and delicious; we were warned that the Pet Pomelo cocktail was chilihot and it was – we couldn’t have been happier!

Our only suggestion would be to add a small salad, or non-fried tapas dish to the menu (the manager said this was planned).

FINAL THOUGHTS

WHAT IT IS The Blind Tiger is a one-year veteran of the Yangon restaurant scene; after closing its original incarnation last year, it’s finally re-opened on Seik KanThar Road (at street level/ near corner Merchant). Look for the large paw print outside! They are known for an innovative tapas menu and an expansive cocktail list.

ATMOSPHERE Like the previous one, it aims for a exclusive, speakeasy-like environment. The interior is a similar layout and style as the original – an upstairs ‘balcony’ area overlooking a downstairs bar and dining area, plush and sumptuous décor, and walls hung with fabulous artworks (for sale). So lots of similarities (includ-

ing the friendly and attentive staff) but somehow this incarnation feels more welcoming and relaxed.

RECOMMENDATION We tried several dishes from the tapas menu and some of the most delicious cocktails tasted for many a year!

The barman was happy to chat about his cocktail recipes, many of which include exotic infusions – vodka infused with chili and strawberry added to fresh mango, palm syrup and ginger to make the Burmese mule. Kiwi-infused white rum with sake, passion fruit & mint for a Sacati cocktail. And we loved the lemon-infused vodka in the Burmese Slipper.

34 InDepth Magazine / May 2016

Nearly all the tapas were good – crab cakes were lightly pan-fried and moist; Spanish meatballs had a real kick (unless it was the Burmese mule…..); short ribs were delicious (after marinating more than a day

Fantastic to see the return of The Blind Tiger – not bigger, but better, than before (and planning to open for lunch soon – sandwiches & salads). Our recommendation? Sit at the downstairs bar if you can’t resist the delicious cocktails….safer than negotiating the spiral staircase to the balcony!

No. 93/95 Ground Floor Seik Kan Thar Road (Lower Block) Kyauttadar Township, Yangon 09 786 833847

BISTRONOMY

RELAXED CAFE & BAR AT THE BASEMENT

BY AMANDA WIN WHAT IT IS Digressing from the trending stream of rooftop bars in Yangon, The Basement is the up-and-coming place to literally get down with your friends and colleagues on a Friday night. They have a Bar & Grill menu, the food is solid, but it's the atmosphere that set this place apart. Located on the corner of 13th street and Mahabandula Road, The Basement gives off the vibe of coziness amid the buzzing streets of Chinatown. Café by day and bar by night, no one can guess from the detailed designs that it was formerly a hair salon only a few months ago.

ATMOSPHERE The place is dimly lit with some soft lights along the booths by the wall, and a bar full of booze. Live music performances are available on some of the weekdays. It has two stories, the bar underground and the kitchen above, which is also visible for customers to observe. The place holds exactly 88 customers, waiters are on top of things, and the service is quite fast.

RECOMMENDATIONS Some of The Basement signature dishes are the Grilled Pork Ribs (8500 Ks), and the Beef Fajita (6000 Ks), which is also available in chicken.

Both the Pork and Beef are well-cooked, tender, and easy to chew.

For appetizers, the Tofu Chicken Wings (4500 Ks) and the Fried Soft Shell Crab (5000 Ks) are definitely worth trying and appealing in your tummy. One of the main dishes is the Grilled New Zealand Beef Steak (16,000 Ks), which is served with a side of mashed potatoes, vegetables and black pepper sauce. A lot of the dishes come in big portions, so it’s a better choice to share it with friends.

Drinks are available ranging from your typical Ice Latte and smoothies, to mojitos (4500 Ks) and their very own signature cocktails (5000 Ks). Normal cocktails cost 500 Ks less than the signature ones. These signature cocktails come with witty names, and the top hits are- Basement Gentlemen, Basement Chick, and Night. Plus, they taste as fun as they sound.

FINAL THOUGHTS All the ingredients are fresh, purchased every day at the local markets in Chinatown. The prices of the meals may add up to a certain amount if you’re eating alone, but it’s very reasonable if eating with a crowd.

As for the place, How I Met Your Mother fans would appreciate the space much more than others for its brilliant authenticity of fusing the antique-modern look successfully.

May 2016 / InDepth Magazine 35

ADV

REAL ESTATE IN YANGON W

ith the long process of the election period and the formation of the new government, along with the two-week holiday, now finally over; attention is again being paid once again to Myanmar’s real estate market, especially in Yangon, the main commercial city.

Simply by looking at the bustling metropolises of Bangkok, Jakarta and even Ho Chi Minh City and comparing to Yangon shows just how far the city can go in the next thirty years and the enormous opportunities for developers in all vastly underserved sectors. However, attention should be paid to livability of the city in terms of the protection and enhancement of its unique heritage neighbourhoods and green spaces as well as the eventual development of the riverfront and adequate public transport. All these will be a significant benefit to the city as a whole.

Myanmar is getting a strong taste

for foreign brands after so many years of near isolation. Franchises are now in vogue as the only way for brands to operate in the country. Retail areas are starting to reflect this with a growing variety of shops and offerings especially in the food & beverage domain. Spending is set to grow as incomes rise but the current transportation issues in Yangon including poor public transport provisions and a ban on motorbikes mean that large destination retail centres will be popular along with community malls and supporting retail in mixed-use developments.

As more companies set up, office market demand is set for a sustained expansion. Such demand is still stymied by the limited opening up of the financial and insurance sectors as well as restrained industrial development. Over the coming years the situation is likely to improve and the office sector should flourish in parallel with country’s GDP growth.

36 InDepth Magazine / May 2016

Limited international standard office space will become prevalent over the coming years until new supply takes shape.

The market for condominiums has been in a state of flux in the past two years although mid-range units are still showing strong sales. Yankin is one of the townships developing into a key residential area with its proximity to Inya lake. The condominium law still remains an enigma but many local buyers are looking now to buy to lease given the surge in expat demand. However highly restrictive, auto-centric parking requirements for condominiums (1.2 spaces per unit) means that smaller one and two bedroom units, most popular for renters, impinge on the feasibility of projects that aim to cater for these type of units.

The lack of decent accommodation is arguably the main source of complaint for expats living in Yan-

gon. Most condo units are large and dreadful and there are very limited and expensive alternatives such as serviced apartments. There is a growing need for smaller unit sized limited or non-serviced apartments with facilities taken for granted in other countries such as gyms and swimming pools. However better options are appearing with some drop in prices along with often improved payment terms of less than one year.

Despite the many challenges for investors looking at Myanmar real estate the opportunities for a long-term successful relationship are enormous as the country now embarks on its exciting new chapter of its economic development and the past few years represent the hors d'oeuvre with the main courses to come.

Tony Picon Managing Director Colliers International Myanmar

ADV

May 2016 / InDepth Magazine 37

HOROSCOPE

MYANMAR HOROSCOPE Tetkatho Soe Moe Naing has a Science Degree Major in Mathematics from Yangon University. Currently, he is writing articles and horoscopes for monthly magazines and weekly journals in Myanmar. In Myanmar astrology, star signs are determined by which day you were born.

SUNDAY

Lucky number - 1.8.6 Lucky color - Red

▪▪ Double Time This is the chance of lifetime. You will get two opportunities at the same time. You will receive good advice from your family. You will go on an unexpected journey. To your great delight one of your family members will pass their examinations with first-class honors.

Love – You meet with a blue eye lover. You will be proud of your beautiful lover.

Business - Although your plans have been met with great difficulties, you will be successful. Your marketing strategy is very effective.

Lucky number - 5.2.7 Lucky color - White

MONDAY ▪▪ Adventure Time During this month your interests will be swayed by adventure. You’ll keep yourself fit and strong both physically and mentally and you’ll be given the chance of a trip to the beach.

You will have your home decorated during this month. You may find a family member returns from a long journey. Now is a good time to give up bad habits such as drinking and smoking.

Love - Your lover is the only queen of your heart.

Business – Your income will improve this month while your business continues to prosper at its new location.

TUESDAY ▪▪

Popular Time

You are popular in your environment because of the amiable manner in which you speak. You can improve your image and you will accept a family member’s advice. You will take a trip to visit famous Pagodas with a close friend.

Love – During this period, you will meet an immortal lover, together you will go on a sightseeing trip.

Business – Although you’ve spent a lot of money on a new project, you will reap the benefits and gain profit through breaking into new markets. You will make official agreements with important business men.

Lucky number - 3.6.9 Lucky color - Green

WEDNESDAY ▪▪ Dissatisfied Time

Business – Your business plan has not been answered; you must find a better one.

Lucky number - 1.7.4 Lucky color – Yellow

THURSDAY ▪▪ Best Time This month you will announce success. Your achievements will be great and your relatives will congratulate your success. You will bargain with business men and solve every problem properly. You will contribute your money to a deserving cause and travel in a cheerful mood.

Love – You will find a pretty lover through travel and begin to plan your wedding.

Business – You will try to anticipate your rival's next move. You know exactly how and what to do in your job.

Lucky number - 3.5.9 Lucky color - Purple

FRIDAY ▪▪ Excellent Time

Your fate is in the balance. During this month you are easily angered.

During this period, you will take a long journey to foreign parts. Follow your parent's advice and you will rise above the difficulty.

Your heart is beating with joy. You are a strong and successful leader in your family. Everyone will admire the success in your life. You will receive a letter bearing good news.

You will soon take a journey.

Love – You will meet a responsible and intelligent young lover within your environment. You will become deeply attached to your new lover.

Love – You have a true lover.

Your lover will propose to you during this month.

Business – You can expect great happiness, either in your own

38 InDepth Magazine / May 2016

business or in your job. You will succeed in persuading your partner to extend the market. Your work is progressing rapidly.

Lucky number - 4.2.9 Lucky color - Blue

SATURDAY ▪▪ Serious Time During this period, you will turn a corner. Good luck will be preceded by good news and you’ll be content with your present condition. Everyone admires you because you never use bad language. You will soon make a new friend as you continue to progress in your studies. You are always fond of pets.

Love – You will make sacrifices in order to improve your love life.

Business – If you show sincere application in your business or your job, you will succeed. Try to adapt or continue to use up to date methods in your business.

Lucky number - 1.2.4 Lucky color - Black

Tetkatho Soe Moe Naing has practiced astrology and Burmese traditional medicine for 40 years.

Contact: 095012767

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MONSOON RESTAURANT AND BAR - 10% off à la carte bill - Valid ever!yday, 4 people per card ORCHID HOTEL - 10% off for Restaurant Charges.

- Free fruit tray upon arrival - Valid everyday, 1 person per card

WTC - World Training Center - 10% off entire selection of coffees - Valid everyday, for 2 people.

DESSERT

THE MYTHS BAR & RESTAURANT - 10% off total bill - Valid everyday

SNOW FACTORY - 10 % off Snow Flake Menu - 10% off Coffee menus - Valid everyday, 2 people per card.

LOBBY BAR - 10% off food and drinks, except Happy hours - Valid Monday to Friday.

THE PIZZA COMPANY – 10% discount ( All Days) *This promotion cannot be used with other promotions* - Valid for 1 person per card - The deals are applicable to the outlets Dagon Centre 1Myaynigone Ocean Shwe Gon DaingTamwe Junction Junction Maw Tin Myanmar Plaza

SWENSEN’S - 10% discount ( All Days) *This promotion cannot be used with other promotions* - Valid for 1 person per card - The deals are applicable to outlets Dagon Centre 1Myaynigone Ocean Shwe Gon DaingTamwe Junction Junction Maw Tin Myanmar Plaza

SPICE BRASSERIE - 10% off food and drinks - Valid Monday to Friday, booking required

VINTAGE LUXURY YACHT HOTEL - 15% off food and drinks - Valid everyday, for 10 people!

PADONMAR RESTAURANT - 10% off total Food bill for a minimum order of 2 dishes per person.

- Not valid on Set Menu.

- Valid everyday, 4 people per card PARKROYAL

SI CHUAN DOU HUA - 10% off food and drinks - Valid Monday to Friday, booking required SHIKI TEI - 10% off food and drinks - Valid Monday to Friday, booking required CHATRIUM -

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THE EMPORIA RESTAURANT 10% saving on daily rate Valid all days Advance booking is required 2 persons per card TIGER HILL CHINESE RESTAURANT 15 % saving on Dim Sum Lunch ( minimum order for 2 person ) Valid all days Advance booking is required 4 persons per card KOHAKU JAPANESE RESTAURANT 15 % saving on A La Carte Menu or Set Menu for Lunch Valid all days Advance booking is required 4 persons per card

PORT AUTONOMY - 10% off total bill except Happy Hour - Valid everyday (closed on Monday)

LA CAROVANA - 10% off total bill - Valid everyday (closed on Mondays) 6pm - 11pm

PORTICO RESTAURANT @ ROSE GARDEN HOTEL - 10% off daily Business lunch - Valid on food items only, on weekdays, 1 person per card.

MAHLZEIT - Get a Free Dessert for any main dish purchased.

- Valid per 1 Person per Card, - Cash payment only and booking required.

TAING YIN THAR - 10% off total food bill - Valid everyday, 15 people per card.

MOJO - Free glass of house wine, beer or soft drink with dinner - Valid Sun to Thurs,minimum order of 1 main course per person, for 2 people maximum per card.

THE MANHATTAN FISH MARKET - 30% off desserts for any main dish purchased - 50% off desserts for hot or cold drink purchased between 2pm and 6pm - Valid everyday up to 12 people per card

THAI 47 - 30% off total bill, Mondays to Thursdays - 15% off total bill, Fridays, Saturdays & Sundays - 2 for 1 drinks from 7 p.m onwards, everyday.

- Valid for up to 5 people, advanced booking required for weekend treatments.

BAR & CLUB CLUB 5 @ PARKROYAL - 15% off bottles of wine and hard liquor.

- Valid Monday to Friday, not valid for loose drinks CLUB RIZZOLI @ CHATRIUM HOTEL - 20% off on total bill from 10pm onwards - Valid Saturdays and Sundays, up to 6 people per card.

SPACE BAR - 10 % off total bill - Valid from Monday to Thursday THE NEW BORIS - 10% off all drinks - Valid everyday, 4pm till late VERANDA BAR @ ROSE GARDEN HOTEL - Buy one Cocktail of the day, get one free (from 4pm to 6:30 pm) - Valid everyday,1 person per card.

CAFE D BISTRO - 15% off on all types of coffee before 12am (on weekdays only) - 10% off on total bill - Valid everyday, 1 person per card GUSTO CAFE - 10% off on total bill - Valid everyday, 1 person per card MERINGUE CAFE - 30% Off from your total bill between 2:00PM - 5:00PM on every Monday!

- Promotion is for dine in customers only.

- Terms & Condition Applied.

NERVIN CAFE AND BISTRO - 15% off on all beverages - Valid on weekdays, 1 bill per card - (Can not be combined with other discounts and promotions)

WELLBEING CALIFORNIA SKIN SPA - 20% off selected facial and full body treatments - Valid everyday, advance booking required, 2 people per card D SPA - 15% off total bill for 1 person - 20% off total bill when 2 people - Valid from Monday to Thursday, from 11 a.m to 3 pm, booking recommended - 10% off total bill for 1 person - 15% off total bill when 2 people - Valid on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, booking recommended FIRST THAI SPA - 10% off total bill for 1 person - 20% off total bill for 2 people - Valid from Monday to Friday, 2 people per card INYA DAY SPA - 15%discount on all spa services1 - 10%discount on Thai Body Massage(anytime) - Valid everyday,1 person per card PARKROYAL Fitness & Spa - 15% off spa treatments, except Happy Hours.

- Valid Monday to Friday, booking required.

REVEAL - EMINENCE HAIR REMOVAL - 20% off one waxing service per bill - 10% off one I2PL (SHR IPL) service per bill - Valid everyday, 2 people per card, advanced booking required.

SPA ELEMENTS - 15 % off - JAMU pre- and post-natal care packages - 10% off - Face, body and foot spa // Mani-Pedis // Hair // Waxing and scrub - Valid on Wednesday & Monday, 1 person per card.

THE BODYGUARD - This hair salon and massage parlour had been designed by men and for men only.

- 15% off from 10:30am to 5:30 pm

DEALS - Valid everyday, 2 people per card

VINTAGE LUXURY YACHT HOTEL - 10% off all SPA treatments - Valid everyday, for up to 10 people!, Advanced booking recommended.

YANGON HAIR & BEAUTY CENTER - 20% off any single treatment - 10% off packages - Valid weekdays, one person per card YVES ROCHER SPA - 10% off total bill - Valid everyday, one person per card

GYM BALANCE FITNESS - 15% off 6 months or 1 year membership contract - Discount cannot be used with other promotions - Valid everyday, 1 person per card.

CHATRIUM HEALTH CLUB - 10 % saving rate - Valid all days - Advance Booking is required - 2 persons per card

SHOPPING DAILY MART - Free delivery for order less than 30,000 Ks - 5% discount in total bill for order above 30,000 Ks - (minimum delivery: Ks10,000) - Valid everyday ( 9am to 5 Pm only),1 person per card MONUMENT BOOKS - This bookstore is known for its wide selection of English language books.

- 15% off on weekdays - 10% off on weekends - Valid everyday,1 person per card PATRICK ROBERT THE GALLERY - 10% discount in all showroom items. Export orders and credit card payments not included.

- Valid everyday (closed Sundays), one person per card SELECT BOUTIQUE THE THIRIPYITSAYA - 10% off all Jewelry - Valid everyday (closed on Tuesdays) THE WAREHOUSE - 15 off total bill - Valid everyday, 1 person per card VESTIGE MERCANTILE & RELICS - 10% off total bill.

- Valid everyday at: . Vestige Flagship Store, Yangon . Vestige Kiosk, Avenue 64 Hotel. . Vestige Flagship Store, Nay Pyi Taw - Valid everyday, 1 person per card YVES ROCHER - 10% off all products - Valid everyday, 1 person per card

ACTIVITY WTC - World Training Center - 5% off Barista & Bakery classes - Valid everyday, 1 person per class.

HOTEL AMATA HOTELS MY BAGAN RESIDENCE - 5 % off room - 10 % off food - 10% off Spa Treatments at Nibbana Spa - Booking required, 2 people per card AMATA HOTELS RIVERSIDE HSIPAW RESORT - 5 % off room - 10 % off food - 10% off Spa Treatments at Nibbana Spa - Booking required, 2 people per card GOLDEN SILK ROAD HOTEL - 5% Discount on Room Charges Monday to Friday - 1 Card per two persons HOTEL 51 - 15% off on all room types.

- Valid everyday, 1 person per card HOTEL RED CANAL - 10% off Spa treatments (ladies only) - 10% off total bill at the Garden Restaurant - Booking required, 2 people per card INLE LOTUS HOTEL - 20% off total bill, incl Ticketing, Rentals, Trekking.

- Valid everyday, 3 rooms per card, booking required ORCHID HOTEL - 10% off on all published room rates - 10 % off restaurant charges - Free fruit tray upon arrival - Valid Sunday to Thursday, 1 person per card, advance booking required PLATINUM HOTELS 4 outlets in Yangon - 20% off on all published room rates - Valid everyday, one room per card, at Hotel Platinum Tamwe, Mini Platinum Guesthouse Bahan, Platinum Riverview Hotel Dagon, Royal Platinum Hotel Bahan THAHARA (www.thahara.com) - 5% off on the published rates for all package booking from Oct to April - 10% off on the published rates for all package booking from May to September - Valid everyday, 2 people per card, advance booking required.

VINTAGE LUXURY YACHT HOTEL - 10% off all room rates - Valid everyday.

SERVICES HINTHA BUSINESS CENTRES - One hour free wifi + a cup of Gourmet coffee once a month.

- 10% off Meeting room rentals - 10% off Hot Desk packages (Daily, weekly, monthly) - 2 for 1 on hourly Hot Desk rental - Valid everyday, 1person per card, advance booking recommended