InDepth Nov 2014
A sign of the times Wint Yamon Hlaing
Acting on instinct
more art more music more travel more lifestyle
November 2014 / InDepth
CONTENTS 3
TEAM MANAGING DIRECTOR Andreas Sigurdsson
EDITOR IN CHIEF Ben Hopkins
EDITOR Leena Salim
CONTRIBUTORS
Ben Hopkins, Bob Percival Griffin Hotchkiss, Leena Salim Daniel Roca, Borbala Kalman Thet Ka Tho Soe Moe Naing, Andrew Wood
COVER PHOTO The Pictureman
PHOTOGRAPHY
The Pictureman, Tun Lynn, Bob Percival, Griffin Hotchkiss
ART & PRODUCTION
Kyaw Kyaw Tun, Jason Quirk
PUBLISHER
U Myo Aung Pyi Zone Publishing House, Permit No: 04285
PRINTER
Shwe Naing Ngan | No.90(C), Kabar Aye Pagoda Rd., Bahan Tsp., Yangon.
T
he times are changing here in Myanmar. More businesses are opening, more travellers are entering and more opportunities arising, not only internationally but locally as well.
That’s why we’ve chosen Myanmar actress Wint Yamon Hlaing (Mo Mo) for the front cover. Some of you will recognize her as the feisty star of Myanmar’s first ever TV soap drama, A Sign of Love, where she’s been winning over audiences with her ability to improvise and portray a complexity of emotions. We hope to see a lot more of Mo Mo as Myanmar’s cinema and TV industry continues to grow. Music, art, travel, business and food also feature strongly in this issue but despite our name, we know we’re skimming the surface of all that Myanmar has to tell and offer. That’s why we welcome your feedback; be it alerting us to stories that deserve to be told, news on upcoming events or suggestions on how we can improve. Enjoy Contact us at: indepth@myanmore.com
SALES
Aung Pyae Phyo sales@myanmore.com
4 What’s on
16 music
27 food & drink
A roundup of what’s happening in and around yangon during November
In conversation with Darko, front man with Myanmar punk band, Side Effect
Restaurant reviews and the yin and yang of the betel plant
10 cover story 18 travel Meet Wint Yamon Hlaing, star Rock climbing in Thailand of Myanmar’s first ever TV soap drama ‘Sign of Love’
22 adventure
14 art Celebrating the work and career of Myanmar artist Aung Myint
30 business Vicky Bowman on responsible business in Myanmar
31 expat advice
Exploring the hills of Chin State Avoiding the pitfalls and on a Honda dirt bike curveballs of financial waste in Myanmar
24 impressions Walking the streets with George Orwell
November 2014 / InDepth
4 WHAT’S ON MORE DINING Chatrium Royal Lake Hotel LOY KRATHONG The Emporia Restaurant Celebrate Loy Krathong & Tasaung Dine Festival at Chatrium Hotel Royal Lake Yangon by the pool.Enjoy Traditional Thai buffet dinner with special Thai traditional dishes and a selection of salads, soup, hot dishes, Tom Yam & Papaya salad and desserts. Then experience of floating a krathong on the pool together after dinner. Complimentary Krathong and one glass of soft drink, wine or beer When:November 6 Dinner: 6.00pm – 10.00pm For reservation, please call 951 544500, Ext 6253, E: fb.chry@chatrium.com
SUNDAY BRUNCH
Sedona Hotel Pasta Night @ Orzo Italian Restaurant US$28 for the buffet.US$5 - $8 for drinks. $US30+ for wine bottles.
When:6.30 pm to 10pm every Wednesday Where: No. 1 Kaba Aye Pagoda Road,Yankin Township, Yangon Contact: (95) 1 860 5377
---------------------------------------------------The Lab TAPAS NIGHT FEVER - 15% discount on their signature humus, hearty burritos and cheese and cold cut platters. When: Every Sunday evening
Café Sule - An International Buffet, Sule Shangri-la Hotel Orchid RestauranT – Live Jazz with Brunch, Inya Lake Hotel Agnes Restaurant – Frenchthemed brunch, Kandawgyi Lake Hotel Spice Brasserie – International Buffet with roasts, Parkroyal Hotel Brasserie Restaurant– Live Filipino band playing Top 40’s, Sedona Hotel
MORE NIGHTLIFE Mojos 1ST Anniversary Opening This evening will be the MOJO’s first year celebration, expect great performances, the best DJ in town and Champagne explosions to commemorate ONE YEAR OF PARTY IN YANGON ! When:November 8 from 10pm.
Swedish Night Swedish meatballs, Swedish music and blondes! It’s mingling time with the Swedish community and Chamber of Commerce. Then Mr.Y is spinning the decks from 10pm with his contagious groove! When:Wednesday 26 November from 6pm to 10pm
Emporia themed buffet dinner Featuring a variety of delights to choose form including appetizer, salad, soup, hot dishes, BBQ, seafood, dessert and fresh fruit with complimentary one glass of wine, beer or soft drink.US$ 30.00 net per person. When:Monday and Tuesday 6:30pm – 10.30pm – International Seafood Buffet Wednesday and Thursday 6:30pm – 10.30pm – Italian Buffet Friday to Sunday 6:30pm – 10.30pm – ASEAN Buffet For reservation, please call The Emporia Restaurant, T: 95 1 544500 Ext: 6253 (or) fb.chry@ chatrium.com
Where:The Lab 70/A Shwegondaing Road Yangon Contact: +95 9 250 537 979 +95 9 250 018 200
80’s Mojo Calling Celebrate the 80’s while resident DJ Mr. Y spins the best classic beats from the good ol’ days. When:Saturday 22 November from 10pm
Belmond Governor’s Residence
Open The Jam “Open The Jam,” is a night of music performed by you and the friends you’ll meet while jamming together. Drums, amps are supplied, you provide the songs and set list.
Burmese Curry Table Fragrant local curries, vegetables and rice are served buffet-style over authentic charcoal burners. Includes free flow of local beer, green tea and cheroots.
Monday Blues Come enjoy a unique Blues Show in Yangon. There’s always a space for other musicians.
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When: Daily from 7pm Where: No. 35, Taw Win Road, Dagon Township
When:From 7pm to 10pm every Sunday
When:Every Monday 9:30pm
Girls Night Out Meet your besties, sip a complementary cocktail while enjoying the groovy tunes of our resident DJ Mr.Y and get your nails done - for FREE! Now THAT’S a proper ladies night out in Yangon! When:Every Wednesday from 8pm
Folk on Fire Left ‘N’ Right Band is a fresh and new local band in town. From folk to reggae, oldies to recent tunes, they will light up your night! When:Every Thursday from 9.30 pm
The Yangon Vibe Resident Mr.Y is spinning for your pleasure: R&B, Hip Hop and party anthems to dance and sing all night. The benchmark party of Yangon. When:Every Friday from 10pm til late. Where: 135 Inya Road, Bahan Township Contact: +95 (0) 1 511 418
---------------------------------------------------French Institute French Love Friday is back The French love Friday, this time with a new DJ, decor, bar at the Rendez-vous and of course, new party friends! Dance all night under the stars. Entry 5,000Ks includes 3 drinks When: 7pm every Friday Free for IFB students doing the French courses
Weekly BBQ Night 20,000Ks. RSVP recommended. Free flow of bbq meats, beer, wine & soft drinks When:Every Thursday 7pm to 9.30pm
Jazz Dinners Get into the swing and load up with fizzy wine every alternate Wednesday evening with jazz dinners. When: Alternate Wednesdays 7pm Where: 340 Pyay Rd, Sanchaung Tsp, Yangon Phone: +95 (1) 536 900
---------------------------------------------------50th Street Bar Beach Party
When: November 28th
International Comedy Showcase When: November 11th
KOHAKU DELUXE BUFFET DINNER Experience a wide variety of Sushi and Sashimi dishes with flavours that will entice you to have more. Come and spoil yourself in a Japanese ambience.US$ 42.00 net per person.US$ 38.00 net per person.
Pub Quiz Pitcher of beer for every round winner and for the night’s winner
When:Every Friday to Sunday6pm – 10.30pm
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JAPANESE A LA CARTE BUFFET DINNER Kohaku offers 30 Japanese dishes including sushi, sashimi, grilled fish and prawn, Teppanyaki Style seafood/ chicken/ meat, tempura, soup, appetizer, maki, soba and desserts.
Sule Shangri-La
When:Every Mon, Tue, Wed and Thu6pm – 10.30pm For reservation, please call Kohaku Japanese Restaurant: 95 1 544500 Ext: 6231 (or) fb.chry@ chatrium.com Where: CHATRIUM ROYAL LAKE HOTEL 40, Natmauk Road, Tamwe Township Tel: + 95 1 544 500 E-mail: info.chry@chatrium.com
When: Every Monday evening. Where: 50th Street
Gallery Bar Ladies Night – Free drinks and chocolates for the ladies all night When: Every Thursday night Where:223 Sule Pagoda Road, Yangon Contact: (95 1) 242 828 – Fax: (95 1) 242 800
---------------------------------------------------Strand Hotel All-night Happy Hour When: Every Friday night Where: 92, Strand Road Yangon
November 2014 / InDepth
WHAT’S ON 5 MORE ART & STAGE
2014 GEW 2014
The First LGBT Film Festival in Yangon In November, Yangon will see the first lesbian, gay, bi and transgender film festival. As Myanmar has opened its doors to the world, so too has the LGBT community started to become more visible and vocal. The film festival adds to the budding (LGBT) cultural scene and will celebrate the breadth and diversity of Asian LGBT lives. Focusing on Asian films with an aim is to showcase ASEAN nations including some homegrown productions from Myanmar.
All events at the Global Entrepreneurship Week (GEW) are free and open to the public unless specified.
When: November 14 – 16 Where: French Institute, 340 Pyay Road, Sanchaung Township Contact: +95 (0) 1535 428 Stay up-to-date with all the festival news: www. facebook.com/andPROUD.
LANDSCAPE OF MYANMAR When: 7th Nov to 11th Nov Where: Gallery 65
MORE SPORT& LEISURE 15th Chatrium Charity Golf Tournament Chatrium Hotel Royal Lake Yangon has been organizing Charity Golf Tournaments over the years and is now holding the 15th Chatrium Charity Golf Tournament on 22nd November 2014 (Saturday) at Royal Mingalardon Golf & Country Club. Han Golf Master will take part as golf management for this year’s event. Handicap allowed: 24 When: 17th November Where:Royal Mingalardon Golf & Country Club For more information, please contact Chatrium Hotel Royal Lake Yangon 951 544500.
Zumba Dance Fitness Weekly Zumbaclasss are now available at Grace Dance Studios in Pearl Condo. Dance classes are available for kids to adults. Classes include Fitness, Ballet, Stretching, and Choreography. Cost - 6,000 kyats When: Wednesdays: 6:30pm - 7:30pm Where:Grace Dance Studio Pearl Condo, Building A, Room F-38 For more info, please contact Inna 09-43075380.
THE MUSIC RUN BY KBZ AT THAWANA STADIUM It’s time of the year once again for the “Music Run”, organised by the KBZ Bank. This year, up to 10,000 runnersare expected for the “Music Run” and one those could be you.For a low registration fee you’ll enjoy a fun-filled day of live music and entertainment. 100% of the proceeds will be donated to Myanmar Disable Council.Cost: 6,000K to 10,000K’; $15 for KBZ, teen cards, corporate packages When:November 29, 4pm Where:Thawana Stadium https://www.facebook.com/TheMusicRunMM
Argentine Tango Join the first dance class in Yangon entirely dedicated to Tango. Locals, expats and touristsare all welcome. Level: Beginner to Intermediate. Attire: Comfortable clothes and socks
When: Every Sunday from 18:00 to 19:30 Where: FX Xpress, Malikha Housing,Yadanar Street, Thingangyun. Contact: +95 (0)9450038820 Enquiries at +95 (0)945003 8820 or at info@ myanmar-tango.com
SNARE 2 MAN LIVE SHOW (HIP HOP SHOW) Snare will launch their Ba Gyi Phyo & O Nay Win Music Video (DVD) When: 15th Nov 2014 & Snare 2 Man Live Show @ Kandawgyi Myaw Sin Kyun on 16th Nov,2014
Art Gallery Gatherings Every Tuesday evening Pansodanopens up its Gallery Space for gatherings. Expect to find an arty crowd enjoying beer and conversation. On Saturdays they hold informal Burmese language lessons free of charge. When:Every Tuesday 7:00 pm and Saturday at 4pm. Where: First floor, 286 Pansodan Road, Upper Block, Downtown
MORE BUSINESS Business Dinner This month’s dinner will focus on the construction sector with presentations by Artelia, Cominasia, Legrand.Members 35 USD, non-members 45 USD When: Wednesday; November 5 from 7pm – 10pm. Where:92, Strand Road Yangon
Toastmasters Club Toastmasters is a place where people of all abilities can practice and improve their public speaking skills in a fun, supportive and friendly environment. There are clubs all over the world, but this is the first one in Myanmar!
When: November 19; 7:00 pm - 9:00 pm Where:78 Kanna Road Please note: You need to register for this event (or you will not be able to get into the venue). For further information, or to register for the event, please email: yangon.toastmasters@gmail.com
Japan Product Expo 2014 Business fair celebrating the 60th anniversary of diplomatic relationship between Myanmar and Japan. When: November 20; November 23; 9:00 am - 5:00 pm Where: Tat Ma Daw Hall NATIONAL DAY NOVEMBER 16
Let’s Get Started, Myanmar! Launch Party A special opportunity to network with GEW Partners and learn about the events for the week. Organized by Project Hub in partnership with USAID and GIZ. When: November 15, 5:00 – 9:00 pm Where: Alfa Hotel, No 41 Nawaday Rd, Yaw Min Gyi Quarter, Yangon
Utilizing Entrepreneurs to Grow your Business A discussion for medium to large businesses that want to grow their businesses nationwide by getting more rural. RSVP: adam@ opportunitiesnow.org Presentation and Networking | Registration required Organized by Opportunities Now
When: November 18, 7:00 – 9:00 pm Where: Padonmar Restaurant 105/107 Kha Yay Pin St, Yangon
Women’s Entrepreneurship Conference A day for celebrating the women entrepreneurs of Myanmar who are changing their communities through business innovation. Conference | Burmese interpretation | Pre-registration preferred Organized by Partnership for Change When: November 19, 9:00 am – 6 pm Where: Sedona Hotel, 1 Kabar Aye Pagoda Rd, Yangon
Local Supply Chains: Opportunities and Responsibilities A discussion for the private sector, entrepreneurs and SMEs on the opportunities for Myanmar suppliers to enter in a sustainable manner the supply chains of foreign investors, and the social responsibilities on both sides. Forum | Translation available Organized by Building Markets When: November 20, 9:00 am - 5:00 pm Where: International Business Center, No. 88, Pyay Rd., Hlaing Yangon
Entrepreneurship: Is Myanmar Ready for It? Panel discussion will feature senior leaders at YKKO and MyLann and include a con-
versation about their partnership. Expo, Panel and Networking | Burmese language only Organized by Myanmar Youth Professional Club
When: November 20, 6:00 pm - 8:30pm Where: New Aye Yar Hotel, 170/176, Bo Aung Kyaw St., Botahtaung Tsp., Yangon
HP Life e-Learning Training for Entrepreneurs Free training sessions for aspiring entrepreneurs and special talks by successful entrepreneurs. Training | Burmese language Organized by Advancement and Development through Entrepreneurship Programs and Training (ADEPT) Program When: November 22, 9:00am - 2:00pm Where: HP Life e-Learning Center, Room 405, Pann Chan Tower No.8, Bargayar Road, Sanchaung Tsp Yangon Education for Entrepreneurs Training A special training for micro, small and medium enterprise businesses. RSVP: Organized by British Council and Standard Chartered Bank When: November 22, 10:00 am – 1:00 pm Where: Park Royal, 33 Alan Pya Pagoda St, Yangon
Social Enterprise Expo Special TED-style talks by leading social entrepreneurs will kick off this special event. The expo will include the participation of Myanmar’s leading social enterprises. Organized by British Council, USAID, and Project Hub
When: November 22, 1:00 – 2:00 pm talks; 2:00 – 5:00 pm networking Where: Park Royal, 33 Alan Pya Pagoda St, Yangon
HP Life e-Learning Training for Entrepreneurs Free training sessions for aspiring entrepreneurs and special talks by successful entrepreneurs. RSVP: hplifembe@gmail.com Training | Burmese language | Registration required Organized by Advancement and Development through Entrepreneurship Programs and Training (ADEPT) Program
When: November 23, 9:00am - 2:00pm Where: HP Life e-Learning Center, Room 405, Pann Chan Tower No.8, Bargayar Road, Sanchaung Tsp Yangon
MYANMORE CARD 00000001
RESTAURANT LA MAISON 20
- Enjoy 20% off your total bill @ La Maison 20 - This deal is valid for the cardholder and up to 8 pax only.
KOKINE BAR & RESTAURANT
- 1 free cocktail or long drink from the menu for at least 1 european main dish ordered at this bright restaurant and bar with outdoor seating by the pool. - Deal is valid everyday. - Only valid for cardholder.
TITUS INDIAN BANANA LEAF
- Enjoy a free dessert upon presentation of the card. No conditions. 1 per card per person per day. Choose among desserts like Gulab Jamun, Kulfi and Halwa.
999 SHAN NOODLE HOUSE
- Enjoy 10% off of total bill and Get one dish of myanmar salad or seasonal fruit for 4 people and above.
HOUSE OF SINGAPURA
- Enjoy 10% off on total bill Monday-Friday dinner (from 5pm) and 20% off on food Saturday-Sunday all day.
ORZO ITALIAN RESTAURANT @ SEDONA HOTEL
- Enjoy 15% off in all outlets (restaurants, lobby and ice-bar) excluding cover charge and deli + festive promotion.
DUFU CHINESE RESTAURANT @ SEDONA HOTEL
- Enjoy 15% off in all outlets (restaurants, lobby and ice-bar) excluding cover charge and deli + festive promotion.
GINZA TEPPAN-YAKI @ OCEAN SHWE GONE DINE
- Enjoy 20% off your total bill on Monday to Friday from 9:00 to 5:00.
PEPERONI PIZZERIA
- 10% total bill. Every day.
DELI CAFE’ & CAKES @ SEDONA HOTEL
- Enjoy 15% off in all outlets (restaurants, lobby and ice-bar) excluding cover charge and deli + festive promotion.
LOBBY LOUNGE @ SEDONA HOTEL
- Enjoy 15% off in all outlets (restaurants, lobby and ice-bar) excluding cover charge and deli + festive promotion.
L’OPERA ITALIAN RESTAURANT AND BAR
- Enjoy 10% discount on the a la carte bill (not valid for set menu, business lunch, and promotions), valid only for cash payments. - Maximum of 8 pax - Valid Monday – Sunday, for Lunch or Dinner
CHATRIUM LOBBY LOUNGE
- 20% saving on Hi Tea Special from 3pm to 5pm at Chatrium Lobby lounge.Mon to Sun
MANDALAY RESTAURANT @ BELMOND GOVERNORS RESIDENCE
- 25 % off for Thursdays Taco Bar at the beautiful Belmond Governors Residence. A colonial villa located in a green area in central Yangon. Card is good for up to 5 people.
THE EMPORIA RESTAURANT AT CHATRIUM HOTEL
- 15% saving on international buffet dinner at The Emporia Restaurant in Chatrium hotel. - Advance Booking Required/Monday to Sundays/4 persons per card.
GOLDEN KITCHEN TORI
- Enjoy 2 for 1 drinks from 6 to 8, every day.
TIGER HILL CHINESE RESTAURANT AT CHATRIUM HOTEL
- 15% saving on A La Carte Menu at Chatrium Hills Chinese Restaurant, Tiger Hill Chinese Restaurant. - Minimum order 2 person. - Mon – Thurs - Advance Booking required - 4 people / card
KOHAKU JAPANESE RESTAURANT, CHATRIUM HOTEL
- 15% saving on A La Carte Menu at Chatrium Hotel’s Japanese Restaurant - Minimum 2 people - Mon to Thu - Booking required.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
- 10% off all drinks anytime at this Café/Bar in downtown Yangon, created for independent travelers to meet and exchange updated information on traveling in Myanmar - One person per card. - No booking required.
PADONMAR RESTAURANT
- Free glass of wine or beer with lunch or dinner. - Must order a minimum of two main dishes per person. Not valid on Set Menu. - Two person per card.
ELIQ RESTAURANT
- 10% discount on total bill anytime. - Cannot be used with other promotions. - Unlimited number of people. - Booking required.
L’ALCHIMISTE FRENCH RESTAURANT
- Enjoy discounts every day at this French dining restaurant which is located along the bank of Inya lake. It’s a great place to eat and celebrate birthday party and dinner party. - Mon, Tue: 25%; Wed, Thu: 15%; Fri to Sun: 10% - All discounts on total bill - 4 people / card
MONSOON RESTAURANT AND BAR YANGON
- Enjoy multiple discounts at this south-east asian restaurant located in a colonial building.
November 2014 / InDepth
DEALS
- Food & Drink: Total Bill 10% off (Mon – Fri: 10am – 5pm) - Afternoon Tea Set: 9,000ks ++ , 15% off, 2pm – 5 pm, 4 pax - Cooking Class: 50,000ks / person, 15% off, 2 days advance booking (everyday except Tuesday)
PARKVIEW CAFE’ @ SUMMIT PARKVIEW HOTEL
- Enjoy 5% discount on Food and Beverage @ Parkview Cafe’. - Not including outside catering. - Not valid for promotions and set lunch/dinner. - No discount for cakes.
DAGON LOUNGE @ SUMMIT PARKVIEW HOTEL
- Enjoy 5% discount on Food and Beverage @ Dagon Lounge. - Not including outside catering. - Not valid for promotions and set lunch/dinner. - No discount for cakes.
50 TH STREET BAR
- 20% off on total bill between 11am to 3pm every day at this institution amongst locals, expats and tourists. You will also get 10% on main course for dinner servings.
ESCAPE GASTRO BAR
- Enjoy 40% off the total food bill and 10% on the drinks between 11am and 6pm during the whole week. - This offer can be used together with the 2-4-1 beer offer on Sundays.
GEKKO
- Enjoy 20% off on Lunch 11 to 4pm Monday to Saturday and Sunday’s all day at Gekko.
UNION BAR AND GRILL
- Get 20% off lunch time, 11am to 4pm, at Union Bar & Grill, a popular and relaxed spot in downtown.
TS1
- 20% off your food bill. Free alcoholic or non-alcholic drink when ordering food. (Small print) Limited to one drink per person. Excludes wine. Minimum of one dish per person.
BAR & CLUB MOJO BAR
- Enjoy 2 for 1 drinks from 2 to 7, every day and 2 for 1 on all food items on Sunday, all day.
KIPLING BAR @ ELMOND GOVERNORS RESIDENCE
- 2 for 1 on drinks at the Bar from 18:00 – 22:00 during the week.
ICE BAR @ SEDONA HOTEL
- Enjoy 15% off in all outlets (restaurants, lobby and ice-bar) excluding cover charge and deli + festive promotion.
CLUB RIZZOLI
- 20% saving on total bill from 10pm onwards in the bar of Chatrium Hotel. - Saturday and Sunday. Up to six people.
CAFE BARISTA LAVAZZA
- 10% off of total bill at the exclusive seller of Lavazza brand coffee in Myanmar. Available every day.
EASY CAFE & RESTAURANT
- 10% off total bill with a minimum spending of 6,000 Kyats in a single receipt. - Only applicable from 5 pm onwards.
NERVIN CAFE AND BISTRO
- 15% off total bill at this pioneering Cafe & Bistro Chain with outlet at Kandawgyi Lake. - Cannot be combined with other discounts or promos. - Monday to Friday. No booking required. - Up to four people on each card
SPA CALIFORNIA SKIN SPA
- Enjoy 20% off any treatment and services. Max 3 persons per card.
THAYA DAY SPA
- 15% off SPA SERVICES or 10% off THAI FULL BODY MASSAGE. - Mon – Fri, 1 person / card
D’LAX SPA
- 10% discount for 1 person and 15% discount for 2 person visit (at least 1 card holder) on Weekdays happy hours ( 1100-1500 on Mon-Thu) - For Weekends: Fri-Sun – 5% discount for 1 person and 10% discount for 2 person visit (at least 1 card holder) - Advance Booking required.
INYA DAY SPA
- 15% off SPA SERVICES or 10% off THAI FULL BODY MASSAGE. - Mon – Fri.1 person / card
GYM BALANCE FITNESS
- 15% discount for: - 6 months or a one year membership contract - Monthly package for classes of $120 for 10 classes - Discount apply to Silver, Gold or Platinum membership - Discount cannot be added with other promotions
CHATRIUM HEALTH CLUB
- 10% saving on daily rate/ Mon – Sun
SHOPPING PATRICK ROBERT THE GALLERY
- Enjoy 5% discount on any product
MONUMENT BOOKS
- 10% discount on any purchased superior to 50,000 ks,Mon – Fri,1 people / card
VESTIGE MERCHANTILE & RELICS
- Get 10% discount on total bill. - Discounts can only be claimed at: - Vestige Flagship Store, Yangon (coming soon) - Vestige Flagship Store, Nay Pyi Taw - Vestige Kiosk, Avenue 64 Hotel.
SEVEN FRIDAY SWISS WATCHES
- For each purchase of a watch you get a Food voucher worth 20,000 ks to be used at House of Singapura, Peperoni and Ya Kun.
ELEGANT GEMS JEWELLERY & SOVERNIR
- 15% off on selected items Excluding Pearl, Jade, Loose gems and 18 K Gold
ACTIVITY HOLA
- Enjoy 15% discount on F&B when doing a private event at Hola Bar & 15 min private lesson sampling or 1 hour group lesson trial
TRAINING/EDUCATION MWS BEVERAGE ACADEMY
- Enjoy 10% discount on any WSET wine courses
HOTEL BUSINESS ALLIANCE HOTEL
- 15% off on any room type at this hotel, strategically located in the heart of Yangon City and the ideal place for your business and leisure needs.
ORCHID HOTEL
- 15% off on all published room rates - Applicable from Sundays to Thursday Only - Advance booking required - One person per card
SERVICES HINTHA BUSINESS CENTRES
- One hour free wifi + a cup of coffee once a month per card.
BUY YOUR MYANMORE CARD HERE! MYANMORE Office
- 1st Floor, Annex Bld, Strand Hotel, 92 Strand Rd, Kyauktada Tsp - 01-375 680
50th Street Bar
- 9/13, 50th Street, Botahtaung Tsp - 01-397 060
Balance Fitness (Avenue 64 Hotel)
- 64 (G), Kyaik Wine Pagoda Road - 01-656 916
Orchid Hotel
- 91, Anawrahta Road, Pazundaung Township, Yangon - 01-399930, 01-704740
Inya Day Spa
- 16/2, Inya Rd, Yangon - 01-537 907
Padonmar Restaurant
- No.105/107, Kha-Yae-Bin Road, Dagon Township, Yangon - Between Pyin Daung Su Yeik Tha (Halpin Road) and - Manawhari Road/Ahlone Road. - Tel/Fax : +95 1 538895, +95 9 73029973, 73108606
Monument Bookstore
- 150, Dhamazedi Road, Bahan
November 2014 / InDepth
November 2014 / InDepth
8 STREETS OF YANGON
29TH STREET
Bob Percival explores 29th Street in downtown Yangon and discovers a Buddhist Shrine, a Hindu Temple and a Mosque standing strong amidst the frenetic activity of everyday life
Yangon’s crumbling heritage
I
t’s early morning and there’s a light rain keeping the streets cool. The winds have moved from the south to the north and the monsoon still lingers on. It’s time to walk the downtown streets of Yangon. I’ve a special love for 29th Street; it’s where I live up on the upper block. This is the heart of the Indian quarter, with Hindu and Moslem communities living peacefully side-by-side, as well as a scattering of Burmese Buddhist and Chinese families to complete the mix.
The grand Hindu Shri Satyanarayan Temple
At the beginning of the bottom block, on the corner of Strand Road, there’s Aung Thein Zaw’s Family Noodle shop. A good place to have perfect noodle soup cooked over a charcoal stoked fire. The shrine to Chinese Goddess of Mercy, Guanyin, looks serenely across at you as you eat; a good start to the day. On the other corner there’s a sidecar repair station. The rest of the block is taken up with outdoor eating places, already full with people on their way to work. The lower middle block is full of architectural wonder that downtown Yangon throws up at you constantly. On one side is the grand Hindu Shri Satyanarayan Temple. Inside
November 2014 / InDepth
STREETS OF YANGON 9
Neighbourhood life
there is a white marble staircase leading up to shrines of numerous Hindu gods. The glazed peacock wall-tiles are a revelation. The grand Hindu Shri Satyanarayan Temple Across the road is the magnificent Bombay Burma Press building. It ominously displays the red demolition-notice. Nearly all the Palladian-style windows that once housed stained glass are now covered with temporary wooden shutters. What were once apartments occupied by rich merchant families (their properties forcefully requisitioned by the Ne Win army regime) are now home to people living a much more sparse and precarious life. For over five years the building has been marked for demolition and it has an uncertain future. The battle for Yangon’s heritage is critical. Yangon’s crumbling heritage It’s in this lower middle block that you can see many Hin-
du-built apartments, a rare sight in Yangon. They are usually marked with a small statue of Ganesh placed above the door. On the sidewalk are numerous stalls buying and selling, gold, silver and platinum. Across the road the Burmese-Chinese woman who runs the sixty-year old shop at No. 67, stands at her workbench expertly pumping foot-bellows to work the gold with a torch flame; again, the goddess Guanyin looks on. Adjacent, is the remarkable 108-year-old Shree Jain Shwetamber Martipujak Temple, towering white over the street, topped by two magnificent golden lions, and below them some angels safeguarding the temple. The 108-year-old Shree Jain Shwetamber Martipujak Temple The temple is home to Yangon’s Jain community, of which only two families are left in this city. The Jain temple custodians, Anil Jamur and his brother, rely on donations from India for the upkeep of the building and the holding of cer-
emonies. They’ve done an amazing job keeping the temple alive and well. Everybody is welcome. The Jain are strict vegetarians, only eating that which grows above ground. Further along at No. 80 you will see a beautiful three-storey building decorated with white unicorns, and unique wrought iron work patterned into star shapes. Crossing Mahabandoola Road, you will reach the upper middle block. Here is the local Purgawa Muna Buddhist temple. At special times of the year, monks come here to tell the Buddha’s story. In this block you’ll find all things electrical: electric chord, power points and any variety of hanging lights. At No.147 there is one of those grand dilapidated buildings, covered with plant growth and marked for demolition next year; another loss to the memory of Yangon’s past. At the corner of Anawratha Road you can enjoy noodle soup and deep fried prawn noodles at the Medina City stall, behind Muslim Hall. Neighbourhood life In the upper block there are a multitude of shops selling every variety of sandals, but definitely no shoes. Here on the corner, you can find a great local barber at the Thiri Mon; antique chairs and a cut-throat razor shave for 1000 kyat… shampoo and head massage will be extra. A bit further along, Mr Myant Thein proudly acts as host at his Penang Restaurant, where he’s been serving excellent Myanmar Muslim food for twenty-five years. Next door is a local Buddhist meeting place where monks come to collect alms in the morning, on their daily round. Next up is World Star Antique Shop, overseen by an owner who seems intent on showing no interest at all in selling his-goods. Despite this, you will find here some treasures, such as British made antique Berkefield ceramic water filters, a rare Maruzen Time Recorder, and numerous old clocks and radios. Finally, up on the corner of 29th and Bogyoke Aund San Road there is the grand Cholia Muslim Dargah Mosque, where local Sunni Muslims come to pray five times a day. The call to prayer is timeless. Bob Percival is based in Myanmar, after spending four years in China. He is completing his Creative Writing PhD from Southern Cross University in Australia. Bob leads regular walking tours of Yangon and can be reached on 0925011-6543 or projectsdada@mac.com
The 108-year-old Shree Jain Shwetamber Martipujak Temple
November 2014 / InDepth
Photo by Tun Lynn
November 2014 / InDepth
COVER STORY 11
A SIGN OF THE TIMES Wint Yamon Hlaing, nick name Mo Mo, is the feisty heroine of Myanmar’s first ever TV soap drama, Sign of Love. In Depth tracked her down during a photo shoot to find out what makes her tick and what type of characters she loves to portray. “I like to play the strong woman,” insists 24 year old Mo Mo. “I don’t like having to cry on screen, I can’t do it.” It’s a disarming admission that that most actresses might keep to themselves. But Mo Mo’s the type of character who wears her heart on her sleeve, both on screen and off.
leaving University she worked full time as a model before a friend convinced her to audition for “Sign of Love.’
On screen she plays a love torn heroine fighting to win back her man. “In the first series I played the strong woman,” she says, relishing the memory. “Because I tried to fight for my love, I tried to fight for what I want. I felt comfortable doing that, but this season is quite different – this season we retrace her troubled past back to her childhood, when she’s scolded by her cruel father and breaks down a lot.”
While the history of Burmese cinema dates back to the early 20th century real life political dramas have often over-
‘Sign of Love’ portrays the escapades of a torn and twisted love triangle. The all Myanmar cast of mostly young, lovelorn characters are given a second chance through reincarnation to realize their dreams and achieve the love they’d previously failed to find. The show has captured the imagination of the public and is giving Korean soaps a run for their money with cliff hanger endings and homegrown scripts written and filmed by an all Burmese crew.
“I said OK, I’ll try, I auditioned and Mr. Henry was at the first meeting.”
“Myanmar’s film and TV industry looks to be on the verge of a rebirth, with Sign of Love representing a sign of the times.”
Frenchman, Henri de Lorme, the show’s co-creator describes Mo Mo as the best performer during casting. “She had the capacity to improvise naturally and to convincingly pass through all the emotions, from anger to happiness, tears to laughter”, he says. So she can conjure tears on set when the script demands, but one of the things Henri most admires is her willingness to portray the bad character, in contrast to most actresses who like to play the soft and demure type. “After one season we had a viewer review and she was the people’s favourite. Everybody liked her strong character and the way she acted. Certainly, she has a very promising future”. The youngest of four girls and the daughter of a grocery warehouse owner, Mo Mo followed the wishes of her mother and moved from her home province in the south to study for GCSE’s in Yangon. “I never studied, I failed most of my GCSE’s,” she admits, “but my mum wanted me to study at Yangon University so according to her wishes, I tried, and graduated in economics.” A born entertainer she recalls jumping at the chance to dance and entertain at school but it was during university that she entered modeling competitions on encouragement from her aunt, and began to realize her potential. “I was afraid my mother would scold me for entering as she wanted to protect me, but my aunt said it’s OK, I can take care of this.” On
Relaxing in the studio | Photo by The Pictureman
shadowed and snuffed out creative progress in the latter half of the century. With the emergence of schools such as the Myanmar Media Diploma Centre training a new generation of cameramen, directors, producers and script writers the future’s likely to spawn an exciting new generation of film, drama and documentary makers. Myanmar’s film and TV industry looks to be on the verge of a rebirth, with ‘Sign of Love’ representing a sign of the times. For actors such as Mo Mo, the future looks bright. But ultimately, given the choice, what character would she most like to play in the future? “I don’t like to be so girly, I don’t want to cry, I wanna play a cop?” Any script writers out there? This woman’s on a role.
12 ADVERTISEMENT
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Aung Myint’s Red & Black series
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ART15
RED, BLACK AND BACK
Art Historian Borbala Kalman celebrates the work and career of Myanmar artist Aung Myint
O
Aung Myint
n Myanmar’s contemporary art scene there are few artists as influential as Aung Myint. As a painter and performance artist he’s considered a leading pioneer in experimental art, rejecting traditional romanticism and confronting social and critical issues through a range of distinctive styles and mediums.
Yet despite having exhibited at major galleries in Tokyo, Germany, Singapore and New York, Aung Myint’s work was overlooked in his own country for decades prior to the transition period of 2011. Previously, art exhibitions could only be held if the government’s Censorship Board was present and willing to allow the show to continue. Predictably, sensitive topics were banned as was the intense use of red and black. Much to the relief of Yangon’s contemporary artists the rules have been loosened and today, the ‘Board’s’ presence is no longer the condition of an opening, paving the way to renewed output and interest in Yangon’s contemporary art scene. I first met Aung Myint on a June morning in 2014 at the Inya Art Gallery, a gallery he co-founded with fellow artist San Minn in 1988. The two of them were sitting on a small couch surrounded by paintings and sipping tea. Despite their status as two major actors in Myanmar’s contemporary art scene they both seemed to exude modesty. When I asked Aung Myint how he felt when informed his work had been selected for a 2013 exhibition at New York’s Guggenheim Museum, (one of the world’s most important museums) his reaction was a modest shrug of the shoulders and few words. Now in his late sixties, Aung Myint’s achievements in the face of adversity have been considerable. A self-taught painter, Aung Myint graduated in 1968 with a Major in Psychology and began to exhibit his work around the same time. His first solo exhibition at the Inya Gallery of Art was in 1994; back then a bamboo-structure in Aung Myint’s garden enclosed by dense vegetation. During this period the gallery had become a magnet for artist meetings that began a few months after the events of 1988. Sometimes, they would open exhibitions in the morning, taking the works off the bamboo walls at dusk to save them from nature’s appetite. The space now has brick walls and
has become a milestone in the history of Myanmar’s modern and contemporary art scene. Despite its notoriety, Inya Gallery remains a quiet space for those who are interested in a true journey of creation. The preceding years A few decades ago, it was unthinkable in Myanmar that artists close to the visual world of abstract expressionism would command such attention. Until the 1870’s, painting served primarily religious purposes, mainly as murals, while the first half of the 20th century focused on realism and impressionism. Post WWII a few ‘unsettled minds’, such as Bagyi Aung Soe, brought new visual approaches and initiated a different process of creating. However, the sweet taste didn’t last long and the new experimental wave was driven underground. From the 1960s, tough censorship and a lack of space to exhibit brushed aside modernism leaving space only for the more conservative traditionalists. Foreign institutes and diplomatic residencies would occasionally host invitation only ‘chamber exhibitions’, where the likes of Aung Myint would get to exhibit. It was these diplomatic forces that provided a means of outlet for artists driven underground. For decades, a complete immuring and isolation characterized the art scene, with no back and forth. Artists would work during daytime as architects, doctors, teachers and builders – then create at home, secretly. Those were not the kind of works to show in public. Today’s art scene The general situation has seen considerable changes since 2011 – the contemporary art scene is indeed alive, but artists who wish to speak out, reflect on current issues through installations, performances or photographs still have to fight for general attention and appreciation within the country. Many reasons stand behind these adverse circumstances, not least the black holes in the art education system and the fact that non-traditional fine art has no institutional background. However, perhaps against the odds, Myanmar’s contemporary artists are experiencing something of a rebirth, with artists attracting international attention and exhibiting overseas. Now is a profoundly exciting period in Myanmar’s contemporary art scene. Aung Myint’s 14 A.M. Exhibition It wasn’t until late August that I met Aung Myint again, this time inside the white cube-like space of the TS1 Gallery Yangon. The ambience was in sharp contrast to the Inya Gallery. Collectors, businessmen, artists and visitors from
Aung Myint’s Faces
all walks of life drinking wine and posing for photos as they strolled around the ‘14 A.M.’ exhibition, Aung Myint’s 14th solo show. Many had waited a long time for this moment. At long last, one of Myanmar’s leading contemporary artists, recognised overseas but brushed aside at home, exhibiting his works in a space in Yangon worthy of his achievements while enjoying the freedom of the gathering. The paintings on the wall, conveying a deeply rooted force, carried only three ‘colours’, chosen consciously years ago: RED, BLACK AND WHITE. To see more of Aung Myint’s work visit: INYA ART GALLERY No. 50 (B), Inya Road, Kamayut Township, Yangon. Tel: (95-1) 524818, 524327.
16 MUSIC
November 2014 / InDepth
THE SIDE EFFECT OF BAD MEDICINE Side Effect is one of Myanmar’s finest and best known indie/punk bands who have been doggedly thrashing out their own numbers for the past ten years. Despite a lack of funds and a marginalized music scene at home they continue to drive forward, winning over audiences from Yangon to USA, where last year they played South by Southwest festival in Austin, Texas. Ben Hopkins met with their lead singer Darko, the son of a seaman whose day job involves empowering marginalized youth in making music and films.
November 2014 / InDepth
MUSIC17 How did the name Side Effect come about? Side Effect was suggested by a close friend who was a punk rocker himself, with a Myanmar band called Culture Shock (no, not Boy George). The name reflects the side effects of a society that forces treatment/medicine upon young people as a way of controlling their thinking and making us conform What music inspired you when you were young? I was into 90’s rock and became highly influenced by Nirvana. When I first heard these songs it gave me energy and hope. To me, Nirvana was punk. You play that way because you love it. I also got into The Clash, The Sex Pistols and Ramones and later The Strokes, The Hives, that type of stuff.
Darko (left) with bandmates
So we’re going back over 15 years here in Yangon, was it hard getting access to that sort of music back then? Yeah, when I was in high school I was one of very few kids mad about music. We’d read about bands in magazines and if they sounded interesting we’d go to the music shops downtown and ask for them. The shop owners loved music as well, so if they didn’t have what you wanted to listen to they’d ask you to come back in one week… or one month. When I got hold of a cassette, I’d take it to certain tea shops where we’d play them. The culture of tea shops was different back then, more like bars, friends would meet and listen to new music together. That’s changed, now they play Korean soaps and football. Where do people meet in Yangon to listen to new music nowadays? That’s a good question. I’m longing for places like these. But I don’t see them anymore. Today, everyone is walking around with headphones on and I don’t know what they’re listening to. There’s no place to go for people to share music together. Places like 50th Street and MOJOS are for rich kids. Guys like me wouldn’t go there. At what point did you begin writing your own music? I was 19 or 20 when I took guitar lessons for one month. That one month made me different. I found myself in music. I was confused as a young man. Didn’t know where I was going. Should I be an engineer, a driver… a man working in a shopping mall? I didn’t know. But when you’re into something you just know it. Playing music gave me so much freedom. It’s about expressing who you are. There are many reasons I love music; it transcends barriers, breaks down boundaries and connects people all over the world. Tell us about last year’s trip to the South by Southwest Festival in Austin, Texas? I’d always wanted to play there, so when we got accepted we had to go. But it wasn’t very realistic. We didn’t have any money and the crowd funding was devastating for me, I nearly had a nervous breakdown. I was thinking, ‘oh shit, this is so hard’, but we got through because a good friend lent us money. We still owe him USD 3,000 and are paying him back with money from gigs. But we don’t have any regrets so we’ve just submitted for next year’s South by Southwest, (roars with laughter) so stupid of me. The idea is to make enough money this time to pay back the money we still owe from last year. We took CD’s and sold them all for 12 Euros a CD. Next time we’ll take more. They’re very hard to sell in Myanmar, even at 1,800K. How has the easing of censorship laws affected your songwriting? It’s been a little bit weird to write freely. We knew we could push forward, even if there was a risk. We wrote a song about a town called Meiktila, where Muslims who’d been living there for generations were terrorized. We wrote another song about people changing their uniforms but some things remaining the same. Are you optimistic for the future of Burmese independent music? I have a good feeling and hope to hear more new music. Everybody gets access to internet these days and more people are releasing digital albums and EPs. Before, output was very limited.
Do you hope to see more music venues spring up in Yangon in the near future? A short while ago we were bitching about there being no music bars. Now they’re popping up. But the question is, ‘will they be happy to host local bands playing their own music?’ I happened to meet a guy who was the manager of a bar that we were invited to play. Then he asked us to play cover songs. That is very mean to me. We would cover a couple of songs we like, as a tribute, but we’re not a cover band, which is very important to us because there are many famous Myanmar bands that only do cover songs. We formed this band to play our own music and show our friends that we could do our music no matter what, no matter if we suck or kick ass, I mean anyone can try, this is really important to me, to show other people that they can do it too.
“We formed this band to play our own music and show our friends that we could do our music no matter what, no matter if we suck or kick ass, I mean anyone can try, this is really important to me, to show other people that they can do it too.”
How do you see the future for Myanmar? I hope it continues to change. We were sick and tired of seeing no change, we were longing for change. I mean, living in this place, you know, I remember the time when I was not hoping to witness this kind of day, when people can say what they think and feel like. We were living in a closed world, we couldn’t express ourselves, (long pause) it was so… I don’t know what word to use... Then, in 2007 I witnessed the saffron revolution and it changed my way of thinking. I got a feeling that we could be someone, everyone could be someone, not just hopeless people. I got the feeling we were gonna do something good. Our country will be known… seen. What about people in general, do you think they’re better off? It’s hard to say. People are still struggling. Lifestyles are changing pretty fast, they might have more money than before but they’re struggling, life is becoming expensive. When I was living in this house, maybe 20 years ago, only my dad and grandpa worked and everyone could eat and live, you know, happily. Now we all work merely to feed ourselves. My father was a chief engineer on a ship, a regular seaman. We were OK, but I was stubborn not to follow his path. I was the black sheep of the family. Did he mind that? I think he did. I didn’t listen to what I was told. He wasn’t happy to see me struggling as an independent musician. But he loved his music and played some guitar. So did my brother, but he quit his band. He’s a good son, a good man, he takes care of my parents. But this is my life, I love being in a band, this is the one thing I can be proud of. For more information on Side Effect, check the group’s Facebook page. The band’s music can be found on Spotify, iTunes and Amazon, among others, worldwide.
Turning Tables, the organization Darko works with, builds music/film production facilities and organizes festivals to provide excluded youth with the means to voice their travesties and visions of a better tomorrow in a non-violent manner. Their aim is to create both individual empowerment and raise collective awareness, instigating change on community, national and international levels. For more information please visit: http://turningtables.org/
18 TRAVEL ROCK climbing in
THAILAND One thousand kilometres south of Yangon on Thailand’s Andaman coast lie some of Asia’s most stunning rock formations just made for rock climbing. Ben Hopkins takes up the slack and discovers how easy it is for first timers to get roped up and experience the thrills of rock climbing in Thailand.
November 2014 / InDepth
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TRAVEL19
November 2014 / InDepth
20 TRAVEL K
rabi’s visually stunning limestone cliffs off southwest Thailand’s Andaman coast are as famous in climbing circles for their beauty as they are for the technical challenges they present. Sun-blasted golden walls streaked with crimson veins bleed down from misty green summits that tickle the sky. At their base are the type of white sand beaches and turquoise bays that sell Thailand to the world. Brochures outline their scenic attractions but there’s only one way to appreciate their grandeur; get bolted up and climb.
With over 600 bolted routes rising up from Krabi’s beaches of Tonsai and Railay many climbers find themselves returning year after year. “There are few places where you can start climbing straight off the beach,” explains rock climbing legend Tift Mitchell of the US. “Yesterday we scaled the rock from a rolling boat, ending with a rappel into a blaze of shimmering turquoise water - awesome.” Inaccessible by road Tonsai beach is most easily reached on board noisy long tail boats that act as the local bus service. Travellers and tourists, rock climbers and sun seekers enter a cavern of clear, shallow water and white sand beaches surrounded on all sides by forested cliffs. With more climbing shops and climbing schools per square mile than any other place on the planet Krabi has become one of the world’s most popular winter climbing destinations. Reggae bars and resorts attract a disparate stream of global visitors from all walks of life. Most are here for the climbing but amongst the smattering of non-climbers who come to soak up the relaxed atmosphere and lay on the beach the majority will be tempted into rock climbing at least once. “You don’t need the body of a Baywatch lifeguard”, explains Tift. “Here, some of the climbs are almost as easy as running up a flight of stairs. And with so many bars and honey pot resorts within walking distance of the climbs, you can just as easily enjoy yourself without climbing.” Climbing took grip here in the late 1980s and took off thanks to the global popularity of the sport. In the West especially rock climbing has skyrocketed in popularity, deluging the sport with adventure seekers keen to expand their horizons. “Nowadays climbing has become almost trendy,” says Tift
Extreme climbing
The infamous Burnt Offerings
with a hint of nostalgia. “When I first came here in the 80’s we’d be discovering new routes, now some of the routes are smooth as soap with overuse. Just look around, some of them are crawling with people!”
lar limestone mountains that run through Kanchanaburi, Phetchaburi and Prachuap Khiri Khan. And for those with a pioneering spirit there are countless climbs just waiting to be discovered.
Beyond Krabi Though Krabi holds the undisputable number one spot for climbing destinations in The Land of Smiles there are numerous other choices. Popular island destinations for climbing include Koh Tao off Thailand’s east coast, where giant granite rocks make for amazing climbing and bouldering experiences. A slightly different climbing adventure might see you take to the mountains of Chang Mai and Chiang Rai in Thailand’s northernmost provinces. Here you can spend a few days or weeks trekking through the jungle, climbing various cliffs and crags while enjoying the hospitality of hill tribe villagers.
Tips for first timers Before roping up, expect to be nervous. Don’t fight it, now is not the time for bravado. The best way to find confidence is to take it from the others around you. Notice how the experienced climbers have no qualms about scaling the rock. It’s because they understand and trust the equipment. Most accidents in this sport happen because of pilot error, not equipment failure.
Some climbers claim the best locations for rock climbing are in the central regions near Huai Kha Khaeng Wildlife Sanctuary in Uthai Thani Province, or in the spectacu-
So listen hard as the guides explain the equipment and don’t be shy of voicing any doubt or confusion. Because they do it everyday, some Thai guides are quick with explanations. Keep asking questions and don’t accept short shrift. Your comfort level on the rock proportionately increases with your trust and understanding of the few pieces of
November 2014 / InDepth
TRAVEL 21
You’re never too young to try
equipment used, namely the harness and rope. In short, if you slip, the harness and rope will arrest the fall after a few feet. The rope is tied to the harness, run up to an anchor, then down to the guide who keeps it taut to stop any fall. This setup is called a top-rope. Typically, in Thailand, the guide will calm nerves with an easy grin and the stock answer to any vexing situation, ‘’Mai pen rai,’’ meaning, no problem, before boosting your confidence with a few words of encouragement. The feeling of achievement when you do reach the top will make every blister and heart palpitation seem worth it. Close encounters Most of the beginner routes in Krabi are on Railay beach while the more advanced routes can be found on Tonsai beach, a 15 minute walk along the sand by low tide. It was here that Tift Mitchell remembers swallowing his lungs in a close encounter with the Grim Reaper whilst tackling the infamous Burnt Offerings; a challenging climb that starts
Learn the ropes before you try this at the mouth of a cave and demands the negotiation of a 15 meter overhang at its upper lip before rising vertically for another 20 meters. Tift takes up the slack. “Yeah, basically I was emerging from the roof of the cave with my torso parallel to the beach, holding on with my right hand and struggling to loop the rope through a crampon with my left when suddenly I lost it.”
For the next 10 meters time froze before the rope tightened five meters from the ground. Rock climbing is not for the faint hearted. But if you’re looking to test your limits while absorbing some of the most magical scenery in the whole of Asia then Krabi should be high on your itinerary.
RECOMMENDED CLIMBING SCHOOLS Hot Rock Climbing Bobo Plaza Railey West, Luang or Saralisa Tel: 075 621 771 - 075 621 771 www.railayadventure.com
Yangon
Cliffsman, Viewpoint Resort Tel: 075 621 768 - 075 621 768 www.thaiclimb.com King Climbers, Yaya Resort Tel: 075 637 125 - 075 637 125 www.railay.com
HOW TO GET THERE The quickest way to fly from Yangon International Airport to Krabi is via Bangkok with Air Asia and Bangkok Airways. Both are able to make the flight in 4 hours 40 minutes.
Krabi Rock Climbing School, Yaya Resort Tel: 075 621 769 - 075 621 769 Tex,s Adventure Academy Tel: 075 631 509 - 075 631 509 www.texrockclimbing.com Ao Nang Climber KRABI
Tel: 075 637 029 - 075 637 029 08 5887 2473 - 08 5887 2473
November 2014 / InDepth
Hakha is the capital of Chin State, sitting on a plateau at over 6,000 feet elevation.
November 2014 / InDepth
ADVENTURE 23
INTO THE HILLS
Griffin Hotchkiss explores the mountains of Chin State on a Honda dirt bike
C
hin State, close to the Indian border in northwestern Myanmar, is the least developed state in the Union. It’s mountainous, isolated, and until late 2013, had been closed to tourists. Naturally, Chin state was high on my list of destinations. After two intense days of partying in Yangon for Thingyan (the water festival), I was joined by my friend Matt and together we made our way 600kms north to Mandalay to rent a pair of Honda 125 XR dirt bikes and ride out into the Chin hills. We set out from Mandalay on day three of Thingyan with our packs wisely wrapped in plastic-- during Thingyan, people of every village, no matter how small, line the roads armed with buckets of water waiting to douse any and all traffic passing through. Our first 200 km was through the hot and dry Sagaing region, so slowing down to get splashed every 10kms or so was a nice way to keep ourselves and the bikes from overheating.
Making nightfall On a few occasions we stopped to dance and party at the towns that had stages set up. The locals treated us like rock stars, offering us beer, fruit, and plenty of (non-potable) water. As we continued west, the air became thick and hazy; much of the forest had been logged or burned away in recent years. The red sunset, heat, and fires burning sporadically gave the landscape a countenance of doom; like Matt and I were riding into Mordor to destroy the one ring. As we climbed out of the dry zone and pulled into Gangaw for the night, the air became a little cooler and we became optimistic about the road ahead. Climbing into the Chin hills on the road to Hakha, our XRs devoured the potholes, loose rocks, and sand we encountered. Making our way down through the first valley, a long and twisting road stretched out of sight behind an even larger ridge. Stopping for lunch in a small village we could’ve happily whiled away the afternoon in the company of a young traveller from India’s easternmost state, but needed to move on if we were going to make it to Hakha by nightfall. Hakha, the capital of Chin state, is seated on the slope of a large mountain and home to about 20,000 people. We came down over the eastern ridge and were met with a vibrant sunset and a full view of the city. As we stopped to take it all in, a group of young guys were also sitting up on the ridge drinking Mandalay rum after a soccer game. As happens frequently in Myanmar, they immediately called us over to come drink with them, and after almost eight hours in the saddle, some rum and a gorgeous sunset was just what we were into.
The guys were part of the FREEZEE football club, and were celebrating a recent victory in their tournament. One dude, ‘Ajiew’, was especially kind and insisted that he ride with us to help find a guest house and meet his family. We ate dinner, met Ajiew’s wife and newborn child, and enjoyed watching videos on his cheap smartphone. Astounded by the hospitality we received in Hakha, we left the next morning bright and early to take the northern road towards Falam. The mountains surrounding Hakha are indescribably beautiful. Every time I expected to start descending, we’d round another corner and see the road twist upwards towards another higher ridge. By the time we arrived in Falam we’d reached an elevation of 1,600 metres. Strange encounters It wasn’t long before we ran into an interesting character on one of the few roads in town. He introduced himself as Bronson, and caught us off-guard by insisting that we’d all met before. Bronson showed us a good restaurant and talked incessantly through our meal. It became clear that he had no ordinary mind; every 10 minutes or so he would exclaim, “Hey! Do you remember me? I was a rice exporter from Rangoon, you (Matt) were a trader from Singapore, who sold rice to me in Japan”... “Hey! do you remember? You married my sister and we were best friends when we were studying at Oxford”... “Hey! I know you don’t recognize me, I was CIA infiltrating the Yakuza in Tokyo, and I had to get surgery to have a new face. This is my Chin face”... Every time it would be a different story and a different set of lives. The eerie part about it was how elaborate his tales were; rice from Rangoon to Singapore to Japan was indeed a major part of Burma’s history, and this man in a small village in Chin state had absorbed it all and incorporated the story into his own. I hope to meet Bronson again someday soon to hear more about who he is and who I might become. Back on the road The afternoon ride was dramatic and thrilling. North of Falam, the Manipur River cuts through the hills on its way from India, forcing us to make a sharp and sudden descent of 1,300 metres to cross it. Matt and I stopped for a halfhour or so to swim in the blue-green water and enjoy the sun. After the river crossing, the road goes straight back up into the clouds as far as it came down. It was a good thing we filled our tanks in Falam, because we pushed our bikes hard at the aggressive switchbacks ascending the Manipur river valley. By the time we stopped for dinner, we had made it another 150 km or so. With the sun setting and many miles to go before making it to our next planned stop, we decided to take a leisurely dinner and hit the last leg out
of the Chin hills at night. We rolled into Kale-Myo after dark and quickly got a room to sleep and prepare for the next day. We had over 350 km to Mandalay, and one day left to do it! We woke up bright and early, filled our tanks and our stomachs, and set off on a dusty ride back down through the Sagaing region. Nearly 13 hours of sand, rocks, and heavy Mandalay-bound traffic later, we arrived dazed but unscathed in the heart of the old Burmese kingdom of Mandalay.
HOW TO PLAN YOUR OWN MOTORCYCLE TRIP A motorcycle trip to Chin state is a rugged undertaking to be sure. If you’re enticed by the freedom of a motorbike but don’t necessarily want to go for broke, there are plenty of closer locations for you to ride to: Pyin Oo Lwin, the former colonial administrative capital, is a gorgeous drive only a few hours from Mandalay. Kyaukme and Hsipaw are further out along the same road, where there are plenty of opportunities to go trekking or do a mountain village home-stay. For more information about possible rentals, routes, or guided tours, check out MandalayMotorbike. com. The owner, Zach B, is a long-time Mandalay resident with many years experience touring in Myanmar on two wheels.
chin state mandalay
yangon
The road to Falam isn’t all bad, but when it does get rough, the XRs are a good asset.
24 IMPRESSIONS
November 2014 / InDepth
WALKING THE STREETS WITH GEORGE ORWELL Bob Percival evokes the thoughts and impressions of Eric Blair - AKA George Orwell - as he walks the streets of Rangoon
R
ANGOON, Burma, July 1927 — Eric Blair steps out from the comfort and boredom of the Strand Hotel, into the swelter of Rangoon; he strides up Strand Road, past the new headquarters of the Port Authority, second busiest port in the world. He remembers steaming down the Irrawaddy from Mandalay; the great, slow escape to the George Orwell city. Turn right into Phayre Street. There’s the Accountant-General’s Building, dipped in the Mediterranean Sea with its turquoise paint; the Florentine domes and wrought-iron staircase, a taste of the Empire. The opium and land taxes are collected here. He thinks of the opium den passed through the night before, close to the river, on the way to the brothel with the old women coated in crocodile skin; they were nothing like the girl in Mandalay whom he’d bargained for, half-drunk … the poem … for twenty silver pieces, maiden, sleep with me … she looked at me, so pure, so sad … the loveliest thing alive … and in her lisping, virgin voice, she stood out for twenty-five. Mandalay’s a place full of pagodas, pariahs, pigs, priests, and prostitutes.
Rowe & Co., the department store, Edwardian home to the world’s wonderlust
Turn left into Shafraz Road, soaking in the cool shade of the towering fig trees. Street stalls strangle the footpaths; there’s a forest of bamboo poles and torn canvas, wooden stools, steaming noodles and pots of mohinga; the smell fills him with nausea. A monk spits beetle juice at him as he passes into the blistering heat. The red dollop of thick paste and saliva barely misses; the anger fires up inside. My greatest joy in the world would be to drive a bayonet into that Buddhist priest’s guts! He loathes being a part of this system; he detests these insolent monks even more. He’s sick of being mocked and ridiculed. He’s as anti-British as they are but they would never understand. They only see him as a bastard policeman, a pucka sahib, one of those English who refuses to take his shoes off at the pagoda, a perfect
November 2014 / InDepth
IMPRESSIONS 25
Sule Pagoda Road gentleman who should be spat at. He shot that poor elephant in Moulmein, anything to stop from being laughed at. He passes the Balthazar’s Buildings, named after Samuel Balthazar and his brother; they’d do anything to please the British. They donated a statue of Queen Victoria to put in Fytche Square just up the road. The building’s full of cramped dingy law offices; hardly room to swing a cat, like something out of Dickens. The smell of food and people are overpowering. Time to turn back down the lane, and up 43rd Street. The place smells of open sewerage. An old Indian lady’s there who’s set up camp under a dirty old piece of canvas. She’s big, her clothes bursting at the seams; there’s a lovely roll of bare brown flesh. She’s cooking in an old iron pot, the coal fire burning in a cracked earthenware brazier. There’s a broken smile, and she says hello. He smiles back, she’s warm and plump, just like his mother warming up the cottage stove in winter; except its not winter, it’s monsoon season, and it’s stinking hot, the air thick with a dampness you can’t escape. Further up the dingy alley there’s a young Burmese mother with her child. She’s washing him in the street. A little boy, naked, covered with dirt and soap. The mother’s eyes are almost green; her teeth are stained red and rotting. She laughs and blows a kiss to her son, the boy turns and looks up at Blair; he blows a kiss. Blair melts in the tenderness and thinks of Jacintha, his unrequited childhood love back home. She’s abandoned him, all hope is denied. It forced him into this dreadful mistake of coming to Burma.
The first day he arrived he knew. He needs to traverse Konthe Road to get to Fytche Square. The street’s almost deserted, except for a wallah on his tricycle carrying his fare, a Burmese woman and her shopping of vegetables and fish. She’s squeezed into the tight wooden seat like ripe fruit. The park looks cool and inviting, but he forges ahead along Barr Street, past the Silver Grill restaurant where he might have an early meal before going to the Club; or he might have dinner at the exclusive restaurant Anderson’s, where he can eat beefsteaks and butter, and afterwards gulp down beer or whiskey, singing loud filthy songs around the piano with his comrades who’ll stink of Burma. He keeps on, heading up to Dalhousie Road; on his right is the sprawling Chief Court building, the flags are limp and wet against their wooden poles. He’s never been in there, no need to, he’s just another imperial officer carrying out his duties in the territories. The British lions look down forlornly on this furthest outpost, where East meets West; where men are either on their way up or on their way down. Rudyard Kipling said that. Where he really wants to go is Rowe & Co., the department store, Edwardian home to the world’s wonderlust; he knows its shop-front windows are full of the latest Parisian spring fashion. He wants to bring back all the sights and smells of Jacintha, memories stored away, ready to be unwrapped and enjoyed, like a pandora’s box of England. He’ll buy
Rangoon Harbour
some new clothes and a luggage trunk for himself; get them delivered to the hotel immediately. He might buy a bright wooden toy for his nephew. That would surprise Marjorie! He was never really close to his sister as there’s been too much moving around. She never had to escape. He breathes in the air, but it’s the air of Rangoon, not Notting Hill. Soon he’ll be boarding the steamer back to London, and have fresh sea air in his lungs as he crosses the Bay of Bengal. He’s sick with influenza, caught in the monsoon jungles up north, giving him his excuse to escape. There’s the thought of the book he’s begun to write; it flashes against the grey sky that is choking with the clouds will bring the afternoon rain, flooding the streets and flushing out the rats as big as cats. The book will be his exorcism of Burma. There’s one last thing he has to do before the shops close. He walks east for a block, along Dalhousie Road, past the hawkers and teahouses, stalling, caught up behind the young Burmese girls in their longyis and tight yin phone aingyi, moving their bodies in soft provocation; taunting him with Eastern erotic. But he can only think of Jacintha and London. The air is full of cheroot smoke and the fetid smell of durian, all mixed with the sweetness of jasmine flowers and frangipani. Blair steps around a dead dog, and a beggar woman with her young baby wrapped in patterned cloth, then turns north down Phayre Road, back across Konthe Road, to finally arrive at Sofaer’s. Here he will send a telegram, telling Jacintha he is coming home. He’s sweating, exhausted. He leans on his cane, and rests in the cool portico of the building. The same cane that he struck that troublesome boy with, the boy who made him trip on the stairs at the railway station. The same boy who caused him to get a tongue lashing from the Burmese university students fired up with their new-found nationalism. He’ll leave this Burma behind. He already has the novel in his head. John Flory will be a coward and a drunk. His Burmese days will be a warning, O stranger, as you voyage here And read this welcome, shed no tear; But take the single gift I give, And learn from me how not to live.
November 2014 / InDepth
26 HOROSCOPE
MYANMAR HOROSCOPE Astrologer, philosopher, traditional medicine practitioner and author Tetkatho Soe Moe Naing looks to the celestial bodies to predict what lies ahead in November, this month focusing on love and business.
Y
ou may be unfamiliar with the Myanmar zodiac so allow me to offer a brief introduction. In Myanmar astrology, star signs are determined by which day you were born on. Each sign represents its own day, cardinal (utmost importance) direction, planet (celestial body) and animal. DAY
DIRECTION
PLANET
ANIMAL
Sunday
Northeast
Sun
Garuda
Monday
East
Moon
Tiger
Tuesday
Southeast
Mars
Lion
Wednesday
morning
South
Elephant
Thursday
West
Jupiter
Rat
Friday
North
Venus
Guinea pig
Saturday
Southwest
Saturn
Naga
Love:Your lover is the only queen of your heart. Business: Your income will improve as a result of your hard work and your business will prosper at its new location. Lucky number: 1.8.6 Lucky colour: Red
Your chance of a lifetime has arrived with two golden opportunities coming your way at the same time. Your family will offer encouragement and you may find yourself heading out on an unexpected journey. To your great delightone one of your family members will pass examinations with first-class honours. Love:You’ll meet a blue eyed lover of whom you will be proud. Business: Although your plans pose difficulties you will be successful. Your marketing strategy is very effective. Lucky number: 5.2.7 Lucky colour: White
Adventure Time During this month you’ll find yourself involved in an adventure that’ll keep you strong both physically and mentally. You’ll get the chance to go to the beach and decorate
Love: You will find pretty lover by travelling. You are planning your wedding. Business:You’ll try to anticipate your rival’s movement. You know well how to and what to do in your job. Lucky number: 3.5.9 Lucky colour: Purple
FRIDAY Your heart is beating with joy. You are strong and successful leader for your family. Everyone admires you for your success in life. You will receive a letter bearing good news and soon you’ll find yourself on a journey.
You’ll find yourself popular in your environment as a result of your amiable manner and speech.Now is a good time to improve your image. You’ll accept advice from a family member and visit famous pagodas with a friend. Love: During this period, you will meet an immortal lover. Your lover and you will go sightseeing together. Business:Although you spent a lot of money on new project, you can get profit from this project or new market. You will make official agreements with important business men. Lucky number: 3.6.9 Lucky colour: Green
Love:You have a true lover. Your lover will propose to you in this month. Business: You can expect great happiness either in your own business or your job. You will succeed in persuading your partner to expand the market. Your work is progressing rapidly. Lucky number: 4.2.9 Lucky colour: Blue
SATURDAY Serious Time
WEDNESDAY Dissatisfied Time
MONDAY
You will announce success.Your achievements will be great. During this period, your relatives will congratulate your success. You will bargain with the business men. You can solve every problem properly. You contribute your money to a deserving cause. You will travel in a cheerful mood.
Excellent time
Popular Time
Double time
Best time
your home.One of your family members will return from their travels. Now is a good month to give up a nasty habit such as smoking or drinking.
TUESDAY
SUNDAY
THURSDAY
Your fate is in the balance. During this month you are easily angered. During this period, you will take a long journey to foreign parts but if you follow your parent’s advice, you’ll experience no difficulty. Love:You’ll meet a responsible and intelligent young lover in your own environment with whom you’ll become deeply attached. Business:Your business plan is not working out, you must find a better one. Lucky number: 1.7.4 Lucky colour: Yellow
During this period you’ll turn a corner and be blessed with good luck and good news. Contentment is yours. People admire you because you never use bad language. Soon you’ll find yourself making a new friend while continuing to progress in your studies. Your fondness for pets will add to your contentment. Love:You’ll make sacrifices in order to improve your love life. Business: If you show application in work and continue to use up to date methods, you will succeed. Lucky number: 1.2.4 Lucky colour: Black
TetkathoSoe Moe Naing has practiced astrology and Burmese traditional medicine for over 40 years. Contact: 095012767 Email: mmstarj@gmail.com
November 2014 / InDepth
FOOD REVIEWS 27 ATMOSPHERE Set in a well-known area of Parami in Myint Zu street, a foray into this side of town is well-worth the trip for seafood and BBQ lovers. A well-thought out décor for outdoor diners with its leafy surroundings, pleasant music and spacious seating area. Crustacean, opened about three months ago, is a tad kitschy with multi-coloured half vases, framed photos of old Hollywood movies and empty film reels adorning the walls, one supposes, a reflection of Myint Myat’s seemingly carefree personality. A BBQ corner is dedicated to those who much prefer to do it D-I-Y. Indoors, an air-conditioned room and a private room is also available but it is evident that guests much prefer to be outdoors amongst the ever-increasing seasonal bugs and fresh air. RECOMMENDATION The 2-coloured Crispy Fish is done half-and half; sweet and sour on one side and a spicy chilli on the other. It comes crispy, with a distinct difference in flavour – one veering on the sweet side to sour and the other a tolerable edge to its spiciness. The Grilled Prawns with Butter is definitely the winner of the day – good-sized and fleshy, they are made juicier with butter. The Hot and Sour Prawn Tempura Soup – their chef’s creation – is a good accompaniment throughout the meal. It’s huge bowl chock-full with tofu, mushrooms, vegetables and tempura.
CRUSTACEAN By Leena Salim
PRICES Fish cost from 6,000Ks to 10,000Ks depending on type. Tempura Soup is for 4,000Ks. A basket of Soft Shell Tempura at 6,000Ks and Grilled Prawns at 5,000Ks
WHAT IT IS Crustacean is a family-run seafood restaurant managed by 26 year-old Myint Myat. Thanks to her family’s main business in seafood processing and export, it’s not surprising that they have some of the freshest seafood to be found in Yangon. Along with the wide choices on the menu, self-service BBQ and other meats are also available.
FROZEE GELATO CREAMERY By Daniel Alexander Roca
FINAL THOUGHTS It is a pity that Crustacean is not located somewhere closer to downtown but I guess that in itself is their draw. The restaurant is in a somewhat quiet end of the street. It’s a well-run business that is unpretentious, and it’s not pretending to be one. Those staying in the Parami area can enjoy a free-delivery service. Well-worth the trip. And the occasional bug-bites.
52A Myint Zu st, Parami, Yankin Tsp Tel: 09259261508, 0931278643, 094303352 Opens daily 11am to 11pm
WHAT IT IS: Why do we love ice cream? Or in this case, gelato. My childhood memories are limited to tri-coloured popsicles sold out the back of chiming ice cream trucks – iced sugar to morph my tongue purple. It wasn’t until I was much older that I learned to appreciate the race to the finish between waffle cone and melting cream. It is one of those simple pleasures; whether life is great or life is miserable either can be made a little bit better through ice cream. And like all simple pleasures, the less you mess with it, the better it becomes. Frozee crafts homemade Italian-style gelato, and they do it well. They make their gelato in small batches with no preservatives so their flavors must be made fresh weekly. And because they are selling gelato and not ice cream, there is far less fat content. ATMOSPHERE: The interior is simple; a few tables and chairs with a gallery view of the rear room where Francis (the chef) can be seen creating the next assortment of flavors. Blue trees of various styles decorate the white walled interior; on them a congregation of various birds of paradise. The feel reminds me of a coffee shop in China, but without the rococo seating and sappy cliché quotes muddled about the place. RECOMMENDATION: Regardless of what follows, sample all their flavors. Not only are they all delicious but they are very happy to allow you to do so. You might end up trying something strange that might surprise you. Which brings me to my next point:
the Durian. Now I know that some of you, if not most, are already rearing back in protest to this flavor, and I understand your reasoning. But if there is any chance for any of you to actually like durian, it’s this. It manages to keep the awkwardly enticing flavors of the smelly fruit without any of the stink. If that is just totally off your radar, the Nutella and Salted Caramel flavors both come highly recommended. Frozee also offers a selection of sundaes complete with whipped cream and cherries, but why mess with something that’s already working perfectly. All the add-ons just take away from the glory of the gelato flavors themselves. What’s more exciting is their selection of gelato cakes, which come in Vanilla Cookie, Black Forest, and Frozee Special. Custom cake flavors can be ordered as well, but order ahead for those. FINAL THOUGHTS While they are not the first gelato-maker in town, they are certainly trying to be the best. Their current menu only offers gelato and some accoutrements, but they promise to expand once their staff gets fully trained. Hopefully that will include some homemade waffle cones as well. PRICE Servings start at 2,000Ks and 2,500Ks. Cakes start at 27,000Ks. FROZEE GELATO CREAMERY No. 23 Nawaday St., Yaw Min Gyi Ward, Dagon Tsp. Tel: +95 1 1233 874
28 CHEF’S PROFILE
November 2014 / InDepth
Bravo Zanotti
Illustration by Ben Hopkins and Kyaw Kyaw
Located in a stunning villa in front of Inya Lake, Vino di Zanotti brings an authentic taste of Italy to the heart of Yangon. The man behind the restaurant, Gianmaria Zanotti talks with Ben Hopkins about the challenges of sourcing the right ingredients, training staff and how to deal with the modern day obsession with food photos
S
itting in an upstairs room of Yangon’s Vino di Zanotti, chef and restaurateur Gianmaria Zanotti uncorks a bottle of red wine and insists, “I’m primarily a cook. My perfect scenario is to focus on the food, the service, the customer and how things should be done… that is what’s important. It’s not about me, I can talk forever about food but I’m uncomfortable with the attention’’, half-jokingly he hunches his shoulders and proclaims, “I’m a shy person”.
In speech and expression Gianmaria is Italian to the bone, a family man and a born raconteur with a personable approach to anyone who enters his restaurant. For him, conversing with customers is an essential part of the job. “I always learn from the customer,” he explains. “Many have travelled the world; they tell me things they’ve experienced about ingredients and service. When I listen to their experience I also improve as a chef.”
That may be so (he requested we didn’t use his photo, hence the cartoon) but shy is not always retiring. In his early teens he was a champion downhill skier, competing on the Alpine slopes a one hour drive from his home city of Turin, in northern Italy. At 23 he had his arm twisted into moving to Thailand in place of a colleague who refused to leave Italy. “My boss was in tears” he says, “begging me, ‘Please Gianmaria, you have to go’. At the time I didn’t even know where Thailand was on the map.”
“I always learn from the customer,” he explains. “Many have travelled the world; they tell me things they’ve experienced about ingredients and service. When I listen to their experience I also improve as a chef.” So the customer is king, but there are certain rules of etiquette. Children are most certainly welcome but noisy children are not tolerated, drunken and obnoxious blokes are shown the door and as for that curse of the modern age, people’s obsession with taking food photos to post on social media, Gianmaria becomes animated.
After two and a half years working for a hotel chain, he threw in the towel on corporate industry and opened his own restaurant in central Bangkok, named simply, Zanotti. Alarmingly, the opening coincided with the economic crash of 1998. “Everybody said ‘you’re crazy’, but I was lucky. At that time the few people with money had even more money and they just spent like crazy.” The success of his first restaurant led to several openings throughout Thailand before he finally crossed the border and entered Myanmar with the 2014 opening of Yangon’s Vino Di Zanotti. A new challenge Vino di Zinotti occupies a two story villa with chairs and tables draped in white cotton, private rooms upstairs and a veranda stretching out to a garden on the ground floor. Wood oven pizzas and a wide selection of a la carte Italian dishes are complemented by Italian and French wines embracing the concept of Italian Aparetivo. But what about the other elements that go into creating authentic Italian cuisine: the water, the climate, the produce supply and
staff? How do you maintain a top class European restaurant in such a contrasting environment? “My first condition before taking on this project was to find a way to source my own ingredients” he insists, “there can be no compromise. I have to have my own olive oil, pasta etc.” When I suggest ingredients such as fresh tomatoes and garlic sourced from the local market may differ from what you’d find in Italy, on this point he
concedes. “My friends made me realize, we accommodate some local produce to our taste.” Quality control A day at Vino di Zanotti begins by taking everything out of the fridge, checking it for quality, throwing out the substandard, and going through the process again until only the best is left. The local staff work hard, starting at 9am and returning home around midnight. Though willing to graft, the finer details of running a European style fine dining restaurant aren’t necessarily part of their culture. “I try to make my staff not only know how to do something in a certain way but more importantly, to understand why. Why, for example, is garlic removed from oil after turning golden brown and why does the oil have to be over a certain temperature?”
“Now we have a ‘no photo’ rule, it used to be ‘no telephones,’” he says, “but now people take photos of their food, the people they’re sitting with, the décor… everything… and look what happens, first the food gets cold, then the flash goes off and someone having a private dinner ends up on Facebook, this is a violation of privacy.” Vino di Zanotti offers a sanctuary away from the throttling streets and prying eyes of Yangon, a private enclave where the best traditions are kept and even the local tomatoes taste Italian. Opening hours: Monday – Saturday Dinner: 18:00 – 22:30 Sunday closed Reservation: +95 1 525935, +95 925 439 4384 Email address: vinoyangon@zanottigroup.com Recommended dress code: smart casual
November 2014 / InDepth
STREET FOOD 29
THE YIN AND YANG OF BETEL CHEWING
The Yang - Betel Leaf
The Yin – Betel Nut
Traditional medicine practitioner, Thet Ka Tho Soe Moe Naing, describes the health qualities of the betel leaf and places betel chewing into an historical context.
Griffin Hotchkiss unravels the elements of ‘konya’, or betel nut, a mouth-watering stimulant that is both addictive and carcinogenic. Spend any time at all in Yangon and you are sure to notice red stains of discarded juice on street corners where people congregate. This is the result of eating ‘konya’, also known as betel chewing. The practice of chewing betel is widespread throughout Southeast Asia; it can be found as far East as Taiwan, though it originated in India/ Pakistan many thousands of years ago. While popularity has declined in some countries, Myanmar people remain avid betel fans. The word ‘betel’ actually only refers to the spade-shaped leaf in which various ingredients are kept; at its most essential, konya is a betel leaf with slacked lime paste and areca nut inside, though tobacco is a very common ingredient.
As opposed to the betel nut the health benefits of the betel leaf are many. According to medical documents the betel leaf has been used in the cure of colds and illnesses for centuries. Thus, betel leaf is used not only in betel nut chewing but also in medicine. The betel plant’s botanical name is Piper Betle Linn belonging to the Piperaceae family and is a vine plant. It grows in every part of Myanmar, which is useful for human kind. The most used part of betel is the leaf. Betel leaf cures: • Drinking the boiled soup of betel leaf with jiggery, ginger and salt can cure illnesses caused by high body temperature. • Drinking the boiled soup of betel leaf with turmeric and a little salt can cure general illnesses.
Chewing konya is a boundary between cultures that few foreigners cross; it can be quite bitter and is most definitely addictive and carcinogenic, not to mention messy if one does not know how to spit. Nevertheless, few things will endear you to the local people more than seeing a jet of crimson red fly from your mouth. Even if you don’t make it a habit, why not try a few different styles out? You may just like it.
• For kids: The common cold can be cured if you roast the betel leaf and put it on the kid’s forehead. • Drinking the juice of betel leaf with boiled ginger soup and a little salt can cure asthma. Betel and eye diseases:
Betel leaf (kon ywet), slacked lime (toh), and areca nut (kon thi). Areca nut contains a mild stimulant that absorbs through the blood vessels under the tongue with the help of the slacked lime. The slacked lime is a strong base, and most likely a contributor to increased risk of oral cancer; but it’s necessary for the mental effects of chewing. A pinch of tobacco is the most common addition to konya, and it comes in many varieties. Some are imported from India while others are homegrown, and they vary in strength. 92 and Signal are very strong, Parajat (payama) is more mild. Beware: adding tobacco will cause you to have a strong and sustained nicotine rush. If you are unaccustomed to the feeling, make sure you are well hydrated and maybe sitting down if you try konya for the first time. Flair. Once the basic quid is made, there are many different secondary ingredients you can add to change the character of your konya, such as fennel seeds and coconut meat. You should ask your betel vendor what they recommend. Tobacco soaked in sweet alcohol (na se ye), a pinch of cardamom (hpa la), and a small slice of lemon (tha paya thi) is how this author prefers to chew.
• If you encounter blurred vision or night blindness, putting betel leaf on your eyes at night can help clear your vision. • Using betel leaf juice as eye drops can cure eye related diseases, such as sore eyes and night blindness. Betel leaf as a treatment for menopause • Drinking betel leaf juice with cow’s milk can relieve emotional stress caused by menopause. Betel Leaf and Honey Taking betel leaf juice with honey can cure stomach cramps due to trapped wind, diarrhea, abdominal pain, indigestion and sickness. By knowing and putting into practice the benefits of the betel leaf, we can help to solve some of the health problems in our community. Historical perspective of betel chewing The betel leaf has strong links with the people of Myanmar and our traditions. According to historical documents, serving betel with the betel box to honor guests is something Myanmar people have done for centuries. It is noted that during King Da Guang era concubines were commonplace. A monk’s letter, dated 12th century and found in Bagan’s Ku Ne Pagoda on the stone archive built by the King’s wife reveals the practice of monks exchanging betel nuts and betel leaves for rice. As such, we can clearly trace the beginning of betel chewing to the Bagan era. Betel chewing time is when people meet up and converse with each other. It has the meaning of getting to know each other with trust. Elders and grandparents pass the chewed betel nut to younger people; parents, uncles and teachers to their children, grandchildren, friends and pupils. If we consider it in terms of love, it is suitable, but in terms of heath we’re better off discarding the nut and using only the leaf.
November 2014 / InDepth
30 BUSINESS
VICKY BOWMAN ON THE BENEFITS OF RESPONSIBLE BUSINESS IN MYANMAR
T
he Myanmar Centre for Responsible Business (MCRB) is a new initiative to encourage responsible business activities throughout Myanmar. The Centre’s first Director, ex-British Ambassador for Myanmar Vicky Bowman draws on seven years of living in Myanmar and several years’ experience working on responsible business issues both in the private and business sector. Married to the internationally acclaimed Burmese artist,Htein Lin, she recently returned to Myanmar with her husband and daughter after six years in London. InDepth caught up with her at her office in Yangon to learn more about the aims and challenges of MCRB.
Vicky Bowman in front of husband Htein Lin’s art project ‘A Show of Hands’
What does responsible business mean to you? Responsible business is about obeying the law, respecting your employees, not paying bribes and creating shared values where businesses benefit society not only by creating jobs and paying taxes but also by raising standards of living. This can be done through, for example, applying better environmental protection than the minimal requirement or going out of their way to in-
vest in training for poor communities where they base their business, so those communities benefit from the jobs in the factories rather than migrant labour from elsewhere.
the International Labour Organisation (ILO) and the World Bank. So there are changes, but there’s a huge gap in areas like the environmental law and the ability to enforce it.
How can responsible business benefit industry as well as employees? The benefits for businesses are plain to see, in the short and long term. If employees have contracts they have rights and responsibilities and are more likely to stay with you. Applying safety standards means you’re not losing employees to accidents or losing people because they don’t want to stay in a dangerous work place. Building good relations with local people is also beneficial for industry, especially the extractives industry. We’ve seen huge problems arise when industry fails to engage or understand the needs of the local community. A good example is the Lepadon Mine which got closed down for over a year after locals protested against their presence.
So we’re really reliant on the good will of companies, and that’s not a good place to be in. We encourage the government to make use of other international standards from IFC, which is part of the World Bank. They have a detailed set of good enough environmental standards that any country can import and tell companies to abide by until you have an effective local law. This is a way of filling the gap, but we’re still gonna need people to do that, inspectors and so on to enforce the law and take action against companies that ignore it.
In which areas have you made the strongest progress? One of the most encouraging things has been the positive interest shown by all quarters: government, local and international business as well as civil society organizations. People from all sectors have been coming to us, asking for advice and participating in events. A particular initiative that got a lot of attention was our Transparency Enterprise Report. Transparency International, which had done this report on a global scale, rated Rio Tinto, my previous employers in London, second most transparent. I saw the impact it had on the company. People were proud to be part of an organization recognized as being transparent.
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I thought this was something Myanmar companies looking to change could relate to, so we produced this report in July, looking at the websites of the 60 biggest companies, focusing on organizational transparency, human rights and safety. We found that a number of those companies started putting out more information about their company, gradually becoming more transparent and adopting new policies and processes. We also found 25 of those companies don’t have websites at present but will have by next year, while those with a website will share more information explaining their business. Hopefully, the shared information will spur the debate about cronies and the debate about trust in business, enabling us to see which companies are changing and which ones like the old system and the secrecy. What are the biggest challenges? The biggest challenge is the lack of government capacity to develop good policy and legislation and to be an enforcer of that legislation. In the West, you have government regulating business so they don’t pollute the environment or ignore workers rights. At the moment that capacity in government is almost non-existent. There are some organizations now that are willing to help like
Unfortunately, local laws are ineffective because they’ve always been ignored and people aren’t aware of them, you know, things like labour laws, your average Myanmar employer won’t be able to tell you how many hours a week an employee should work, but they do exist. They either aren’t known or in some cases they’re contradictory, you’ll get three different answers from three different people. How can newly arrived international companies affect change? A good example is supply and parts companies coming in from the west. Many are subjected to strict anti-corruption rules and what you see is them taking a zero tolerance approach from day one on issues like bribes being requested by customs for clearance of goods. They have the ability to stand up to those requests and the ability to elevate them to Naypyidaw if necessary. It’s really important that more companies behave like that because when the message gets up to Naypyidaw they’ve got something tangible to address these issues. Not just to fight corruption but to prevent everything stacking up at customs and coming to a real bottleneck, which is happening. Do you feel the message of responsible business is getting through? I think that actually we were lucky by having the Myitsone dam and Letpadaung copper miningincidents because they were a wake-up call for a number of companies that life had changed and the assumption that nobody would complain about their behaviour no longer held true. Most of the Myanmar companies we deal with want to be a part of that change. We’re pushing at an open door when we’re talking about this stuff. Most companies want to know what international standards are and what responsible business is. Many tell us they’re still suffering from a business climate where corruption was endemic and electrical blackouts were commonplace. No one’s expecting a 100% turnaround on day one but what we do find is companies wanting to work together to create a better business environment for tomorrow. To learn more about Myanmar Centre for Responsible Business go to: http://www. myanmar-responsiblebusiness.org
November 2014 / InDepth
EXPAT ADVICE 31
Pitfalls and Curveballs Common Errors Expats Make Executive Director and Senior Consultant of PFS International Andrew Wood points out the common mistakes expats make when living abroad and offers advice on how to avoid them
I
gnorance and inertia are often the biggest hurdles for expats to overcome in their business of living life in Asia. Here are some common and costly errors we make when moving abroad.
Expats choose to live abroad for a variety of reasons. Most, rapidly settle and enjoy the international lifestyle never wanting to give it up. That said; it is commonplace for both new arrivals and well-seasoned expats to make the same mistakes over and over for many years. If you are a relative newcomer you will be wise to take note of the typical pitfalls which have affected your more experienced counterparts and ensure that you take action not to fall into the same pattern of errors they often repeatedly make. Moving abroad can be fun and is usually adventurous. However, if you are not careful the great financial start you envisaged can evaporate before your eyes as you underestimate many aspects of expat life with the hidden and often unnecessary costs involved. High living costs The most common error is underestimating living costs. Many expats talk about the cheap cost of local food. Some get used to this but many revert to their favourite imported brands. Eating cost can then escalate and be significantly more than provisionally projected. Others start to think in the local currency thereby losing the feel for their true costs. If you relocate from a western society you will probably have a different idea from the local Myanmar landlords as to exactly what is included in furnished accommodation. This will normally necessitate shopping for a substantial number of items which becomes rather expensive. There will be rental deposits and, in Myanmar, rental payments a year in advance. Right now the rental market in Yangon is very tough indeed and landlords are demanding more and more even from seasoned expats who want to renew their agreements, with renewal rents doubling and sometimes tripling. There is likely a bubble blowing and in a few years’ time this situation will change drastically when there is more choice available. For the time being do not underestimate what you might need to pay. Inflated start-up costs When you first arrive it is easy to feel that you are on vacation and splash out on local activities, travel adventures and cuisine. These “holiday” activities can extend far longer than you originally intended, severely depleting reserves you had earmarked to assist you in establishing yourself. This can be exacerbated when locals see you as a tourist and set about their usual practice of separating you from the contents of your wallet.
The Myanmar Kyat High moving costs Most expats look at moving costs as the actual amount required for the relocation company. They all too often forget that there will be a requirement for hotel accommodation in the place where you are coming from and relocating to. Then there will be the cash deposits required for telephone and utilities as well as the connection charges. These types of cost are often overlooked and can be a drain on resources. Exchange rates This is one of the most common discussion subjects at expat gatherings. When you initially relocate you have a tendency to make a mental note of the exchange rate and use this as your benchmark when making comparisons between the price of goods and services at home and in your new country. Many expats do not pay too much attention to this at outset and often employ wasteful forex methods until they realise the real costs. When the exchange rate changes you start to participate in the discussion, often sharing how this has negatively affected you. Many never realise that rates oscillate over long periods. Personal protection insurance Many expats forget risks they would cover back home. It is wise that you secure at least the same level of personal effects insurance and cover yourself personally in the event of accident or illness. It is sometimes easy to forget that there are no free public medical facilities in Myanmar. There are a multitude of expats who take the attitude that it will never happen to them. The sad news is that it often does! The vast majority are never prepared and when disaster strikes it is catastrophic. Make sure that when you arrange insurance you do not fall into the trap of taking the cheapest. These schemes are often far short of what they claim to be and when a claim is made there is much less cover than you had anticipated. Pension provisions Relocating abroad with your job often leaves you to make your own pension arrangements. Many expats take the attitude that they will deal with this later but never get round to it. This is a grave error. The longer you defer the decision
the more difficult it is to make up for the delay. In making a long term plan for your golden years it will be necessary to include the pension entitlements you have already accrued back home and amalgamate these into a future overall strategy. No two expats have the same circumstances. Therefore you will be wise to seek the help of a professional adviser. I can assist you to create and implement a meaningful plan. Banking It is usually the norm to have a bank account where you live to take care of your everyday living expenses. It is also important to ensure you have international banking facilities enabling you to conduct offshore transactions to deal with matters outside your country of residence. Sometimes local banking is difficult. Remote areas and often entire countries, such as Myanmar, are a long way behind the expectations of expats. I can guide you through the pitfalls and point you in the right direction with banking. Taxes Many expats assume they are exempt from local taxes where they live. They can end up with a shock when they are contacted by the local tax department and pay fines as well as interest on the tax they owe. Make sure you understand the differences between the way things are taxed in your new environment and the situation back home. In some circumstances taxes are mixed and you may end up paying tax in both jurisdictions unnecessarily. Will and succession provisions Some expats have a will which is valid in their home country. This may be insufficient for their new situation. When they pass away their beneficiaries will need to secure probate in each country where there are assets. Getting probate issued by multi jurisdictions can often be tricky and extremely time consuming. If you are wise you will use the services of a professional in arranging your affairs. It will save your heirs time and expense, not to mention the long period they will not have access to any of the money you leave them until probate is resolved in all locations. Questions to the author can be directed to PFS International at: enquiriesmyanmar@fsplatinum.com
November 2014 / InDepth
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