InDepth Volume 5 - March 2015 by MYANMORE

InDepth No 5, March 2015

A Gentle Legend,

A Lethal Fighter lone chaw

more more more more

art fashion travel lifestyle

March 2015 / InDepth

CONTENTS 3

TEAM MANAGING DIRECTOR Andreas Sigurdsson

EDITOR IN CHIEF

travel

Griffin Hotchkiss travels to Kuching, Sarawak's capital, to explore its cuisine and natural beauty

Ngwe Tun tells us about his passion for socially conscious coffee beans

impressions

24 chef's profile

adventure

26 food reviews

business

Andreas Sigurdsson

EDITORS Bob Percival

CONTRIBUTORS Bob Percival Tet Ka Tho Soe Moe Naing Mimi Wu Borbรกlรก Kรกlmรกn Bryan Berenguer Griffin Hotchkiss Heinz Willems Yuko Maskay

streets of yangon

38th Street - fresh produce and a bunch of yellow roses

Aimee Lawrence

COVER PHOTO

Bob Percival takes us on a shared Rangoon journey with Rudyard Kipling

Gerhard Joren www.gerhardjoren.com

PHOTOGRAPHY The Pictureman

ART & PRODUCTION Kyaw Kyaw Tun

PUBLISHER U Myo Aung (Permanent No.00315) InDepth MYANMORE Magazine 1st Floor, Annex Building, Strand Hotel, 92 Strand Road, Yangon, Myanmar

PRINTER Shwe Naing Ngan Press Permit No: 05745 No.90(C), Kabar Aye Pagoda Rd., Bahan Tsp., Yangon.

art

A journey through the lens of renowned photojournalist Pablo Bartholomew and his father Richard Bartholomew

Bryan Berenguer travels to the dramatic limestone landscape of Hpa-an

fashion

ABOUT MYANMORE

12 cover story

Celebrated Myanmar lethwei kick boxer Lone Chaw about his career as a professional fighter and trainer

MYANMORE is a registered brand under Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited that manage the leading lifestyle and entertainment website www.myanmore.com. On top of InDepth, MYANMORE also provides city maps, a privilege card, a weekly guide and two quarterly guides - EnjoyIt and KnowIt. The mission is to give visitors and residents of Yangon more to enjoy and explore.

DISTRIBUTION

Korean and Indian restaurants in Yangon

health

horoscope

Toughen up your guts with a big bowl of bacteria

John Lwin chats about his beginnings in fashion and this year Myanmar International Fashion Week

SALES sales@myanmore.com 01 375 680

Local chef Thurein Htun shares his colourful life in the culinary world

festival

Heinz Willems travels to Myitkyina for the Kachin Manau festival

InDepth can be found in hotels, restaurants, bars, cafes, business centres and embassies etc in Yangon. It is also distributed locally inside International New York Times, Nikkei, Bangkok Post, Nation, Straits Times, Business Times and Zaobao. Subscribe to any of these and get InDepth delivered every month. For more info contact successinternational2007@gmail.com.

Our very own astrologer on the fortunes that lay in wake for March, 2015

DISCLAIMER

No part of this publication can be reproduced or transmitted in any form without prior written permission from the Managing Director. All details are deemed correct at the time of print, the editor, employees and contributors can not be held responsible for any errors, inaccuracies or omissions that might occur.

March 2015 / InDepth

4 WHAT’S ON march 1 | art

promotions

THAR GYI SOLO EXHIBITIONMY PAST, MY SELF

River Gallery II has a solo exhibition called MY PAST, MY SELF of the artist Thar Gyi. March 1, 2015 @ 4:00 pm – 8 March 2015 @ 6:00 pm / River Gallery Chindwin Chambers, 33/35. 37th & 38th Street, Kyauktada Township, Yangon

BUILDING HISTORIES One Building – Nine Artists and a Complex Past The Villa at N°8 Ko Min Ko Chin Rd is a particular mirror of Myanmar’s history of the past 100 years. Built as the luxury abode of an affluent Sino-Burmese family in the 1920s, and abandoned in the chaos of WWII, it then acted as the headquar-ters of Aung San’s and U Nu’s Anti-Fascist People’s Freedom League, and later still became the Yangon State School of Fine Art and Gallery. Ahead of the splendid edifice‘s remodelling and transformation into the future Goethe-Institut (German culture centre) in Yangon, now is the time to pause and consider the house’s past. Nine artists from Southeast Asia – five from Myanmar and four from neighbouring countries have been invited to use the venerable building’s space and individual rooms for telling their new histories, linked to the old. An exhibition curated by Iola Lenzi (Singapore) and the Goethe-Institut Myanmar Goethe-Villa, No 8 Ko Min Ko Chin Road (next to Golden Butterfly Hotel) Opening: Saturday 28 February 6 pm 1 March 2015 @ 10:00 am – 15 March 2015 @ 7:00 pm / Goethe-Villa - No 8, Ko Min Ko Chin Road, Bahan Township, Yangon

march 7 - 11 | art

SKETCHES OF SWN

The Yangon Gallery proudly hosts solo exhibition of Artist Soe Win Nyein, “Sketches of SWN” and the launching of his book “Sketching Yangon”. The book launch is at 3 pm

Business Set Lunch at Chatrium – Daily on Saturday, 7th March 2015. Free Admission. 7-11 March 2015 from 10 am to 6 pm on / The Yangon Gallery is at People’s Park, Ahlone Road, Dagon Township, Yangon.

march 9 | business

3RD MPS (MYANMAR POWER SUMMIT)

Organized by CMT with Myanmar’s Ministry of Electric Power (MOEP) as the Official Host, the 3rd MPS (Myanmar Power Summit) sets to lay out the forward looking polices and opportunities. The panel of officials includes: • Ministry of Electric Power (MOEP); • Myanmar Electric Power Enterprise (MEPE); • Yangon City Electricity Supply Board (YESB); • Electricity Supply Enterprise; • Global Development Institutions (ADB & IFC)& International Project Financiers as well as local and international industry experts presenting indepth assessment on current projects and emerging opportunities; and the country’s plans to be transparent in encouraging partnerships and investment. 9 March 2015 – 11 March 2015 allday / Sedona Hotel - 1, Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd, Yankin Tsp (In front of Maha Mya Kyun Thar Garden)

march 12-14 | business

MYANMAR FOODBEV AND MYANMAR HORECA

Myanmar FoodBev formerly named Myanmar International Food and Beverage is a 3 day event. This event

showcases products like Canned Food, Chilled & Frozen Food, Halal Food, Health & Organic Food, Snack & Specialty, Processed Food, Ready to Eat, Fine Food, Staple Food, Non-Alcoholic Drink, Juice, Soft Drink, Energy Drink, Other Beverages etc. in the Food & Beverage industry. 12 March 2015 @ 9:00 am – 14 March 2015 @ 5:00 pm / MYANMAR EVENT PARK - Shin Saw Pu Street, Sanchaung Tsp,Yangon, Myanmar

march 23 | Business

MYANMAR CIVIL AVIATION DEVELOPMENT CONFERENCE 2015 MCADC is the ONLY civil aviation conference endorsed by the Ministry of Transport Myanmar and the Department of Civil Aviation Myanmar. The 2nd annual event of the successful MCADC 2014, MCADC 2015 will convene over 400 attendees from airport operators, regulators, senior level airlines and key stakeholders to strategise, plan and capitalise on this booming aviation market. 23 March 2015 – 26 March 2015, allday / Sedona Hotel - 1, Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd, Yankin Tsp (In front of Maha Mya Kyun Thar Garden)

March 27 public holiday

Armed Force Day (National) Tatmadaw Nay (English: Armed Forces Day) is celebrated in commemoration of the start of Myanmar army's resistance to Japanese occupation in 1945.

A perfect menu for people in a hurry. Indulge in 3-course menu, soup, main course and fresh fruit or ice-cream at US$ 30 nett per person. Quality food, prompt service and a cozy environment will welcome you every day from 11.30 to 14.30 hr. Available at The Emporia Restaurant, Tiger Hill Chinese Restaurant and Kohaku Japanese Restaurant. For reservation, Please call T: 95 1 544500 or fb.chry@chatrium.com

Nemita Spa Highlights

In honor of International Women’s Day, Nemita Spa by Lilawadee offer wonderful gift to all women guest. Enjoy It! 20% saving on All Spa Service (Massage, Treatment and Spa Package) Valid only on 8 March 2015 20% saving only on Body Massage (Aromatherapy, Lilawadee Massage, Herbal Oil Care, Traditional Thai Message, Foot Reflexology) - Valid from 1st to 31st March 2015 For more information, please call 95 1 544500 Ext 6900 or https://www.facebook.com/Nemita. Spa.by.Lilawadee

Friendly Friday Latin Dance Competition at Club Rizzoli – 3rd April 2015 Great chance for Latin dance beginners. The rhythm for Salsa & Bachata by Dancer Gisbert. Music by DJ Bay Tar. Great prize for Champion! Sign up Now until 31 March 2015 @ Club Rizzoli Facebook! Competition Date: 3rd April 2015 Time: 9 pm Venue: Club Rizzoli @ Chatrium Hotel Royal Lake Yangon For more information or register, please call T: 951 544500 Ext 6243 FB: https://www.facebook.com/ClubRizzoliAtChatrium

March 2015 / InDepth

WHAT’S ON 5

My Yangon My Home

hibitions, installations and happenings will be exhibited in downtown Yangon streets using building exteriors, people’s houses, galleries art route, circular train and tea shops.

Yangon Art & Heritage Festival, from Sunday 1 March to Sunday 22 March 2015.

My Yangon My Home has ten projects and collaborations: Logo interactive design coordinated by So Takahashi | Poster Competition with Yangon Art and Culture University coordinated by Khin Zaw Latt, U Myat Tun Aung | Inside my House Photo Competition coordinated by Thiha Soul MM Street Photography and Matt Grace – Myamar Deitta | Mohinga – Yangon Street Food Narratives & History curated by Abadi Art Space in collaboration with Ko Latt, Ye Naung, Frankie Fathers, Phuy Maung Sein, San Li Tun | Yangon Art Route coordinated by Natalie Johnson | La Casa – Contemporary Art in Domestic Spaces coordinated by Abadi Art Space: Diana Valarezo, Jose Abad Lorente | Downtown Short Stories

We are delighted to introduce My Yangon My Home - the first Yangon Art & Heritage Festival in Myanmar. The innovative festival is a socially engaged art project focused on the city, its people and the everyday life. My Yangon My Home aims to explore Yangon residents’ ideas about their cultural legacy. It showcases public and street art projects alongside community art and looks into ways to visualise possibilities for the city’s future. The festival is based on community art, and various curated public art ex-

coordinated by Htein Lin, Cartoon Artists: Maung Maung Aung, Shew Ming Thar, Wing Aung, Thiha, Soe Thaw Dar | Circular Train coordinated by Liam Shea | Passenger on Bus by Min Thu Rein | Planetarium by Aung Myat Htay | Performance Art Night Event. My Yangon My Home – Yangon Art & Heritage Festival is a not-for-profit event, free of charge and open to all members of the public. Funds collected are used to meet costs of developing various community art projects, and promoting and organising the event. The festival relies on companies, organisations and individuals who support arts, culture, and is initiated and supported by the British Embassy in Yangon and curated by Diana Valarezo, Htein Lin and José Abad Lorente. Developed by the International Art Organisation Abadi Art Space. Co-organised with Pun Projects, KZL Gallery, Myanmar Street Photographers, Yan-

gon Photo Festival, Turquoise Mountain | YHT, British Council, British Club. In collaboration with Yangon Art and Culture University, & proud LGBT Festival, In Depth, Start Resources Academy, Bo San Patt Gallery, Projects Dada: Bob Percival, and Ilaria Benini, Billy Steward and Susana Galvan. A special thanks to YHDC, festival sponsors, supporting tea houses, ‘La Casa’ participating house owners, Pun projects for designing and printing this map. and everyone else who has been involved with the festival process, creation and participation. Comments and suggestions to: contact@yangonartandheritage.com or post them onto Facebook timeline for discussion https://www.facebook.com/ yangonartandheritage. See more at: http://www.yangonartandheritage.com

6 STREETS OF YANGON

March 2015 / InDepth

38 Street th

Bob Percival walks the streets of Yangon looking for an early morning dosa, fresh produce and a bunch of yellow roses.

his morning I am walking the streets with my good friend San Lin Tun, an inspired Burmese writer who always sees the humorous side of Yangon life. He gives me some local advise for a stiff neck that I’ve woken up with, ‘hold your breath, take your pillow, and bash it against the back of your neck seven times’, a sure cure he assures me. We start at the lower block of 38th Street at Strand Road, the Strand Hotel is on one corner, and the former Burmah Trading Company headquarters on the other (now the newly renovated Myanmar Airways office). The original basalt pavement stones can still be seen on the footpath’s edge. Here, close to the Rangoon River it is quite cool, and there is a thin winter mist rising off the water. Here in the Lower Block, shade is provided by a few remnant trees, which are survivors of Cyclone Nargis in 2008. There are also the cooling shadows of abandoned warehouses whose walls are coated with vermillion red paint and the green of overgrown moss and ferns. Along this block there are numerous travel agents, as well as the recently opened River Gallery II. The New Garden Restaurant, near the top corner is where Burmese businessmen relax at night, eating and drinking in upstairs air-conditioned rooms (800Ks extra). Walking north crossing Merchant Street you reach the Lower Middle Block that was recently repaved in 2013. There was a brief time of one week when the street lay empty of cars, providing early morning images of what Yangon once was; a time of relaxed walking, easy cycling, and chatting at doorways, free of the blaring noise of car horns and revving motors. Now of course it’s all back to business. In this block you will find one of the few Shia mosques in Yangon, a space where women are allowed, and where

colourful decoration has found its way into the religious space. The largest Shia mosque can be found in 30th Street, a brilliant example of early 1900 religious architecture. We continue walking across to the Upper Middle Block, and a rat make its way lethargically down a nearby drain. I tell San Lin Tun of the unwanted mice in my downtown 29th Street apartment. He assures me that if I write many notes saying, ‘mice for sale – 150 kyat’, and paste them around the house, they will no longer be a problem; surely a worthwhile tactic. This block has two treasures; an immaculate street stall providing perfect Myanmar tea (250Ks), maintained by a Burmese gentleman who also provides complimentary early morning positive energy; and an

It is the Upper Block that holds the essence of 38th Street; this is the bustling morning produce market. It’s crowded with local shoppers buying fresh flowers, vegetables and meat Indian woman who has set up a dosa kitchen outside her house. Her granddaughter peers through the front gate, as her son sits on the step, reading the newspaper. The dosa is cooked on the hotplate fired by scrap

March 2015 / InDepth

bits of wood and cardboard, and is served with a light curry soup, and sugar for dipping (400Ks). It is a breakfast that warms your stomach and heart. There is much love here; a family love that crosses three generations. It is the Upper Block that holds the essence of 38th Street; this is the bustling morning produce market. It’s crowded with local shoppers buying fresh flowers, vegetables and meat. The fish stalls are especially good, with piles of fresh prawns, shrimp, whole fish and cutlets. There’s also fresh cabbage salad, tomatoes, bean sprouts, dried fish, fresh mutton and pork and chicken, broccoli, cauliflower, tofu, hand-made noodles, chili spices, ngapi (fish paste), thanaka, bananas, and of course betel nut. You’ll also find tha-

STREETS OF YANGON 7

pyae pan leaves that are used to tie on to the front of trucks, cars and boats for safe travel. In the afternoon this market dwindles away, then expands west along Anawrahta Road. Enjoy and soak in the coolness of a Yangon morning full of the scent of fresh flowers, herbs and spices. Why not buy a bunch of fresh yellow roses, then walk along the final stretch of 38th, and give them to someone you pass along the way. It’s a beautiful way to start the day. g

Bob Percival is a travel writer and historian now living in Yangon for over a year, after spending four years in Yunnan doing research for a novel. He is presently completing his PhD in Creative Writing. He loves Yangon and regularly does walking tours. Bob can be reached on projectsdada@mac.com

March 2015 / InDepth

8 ART

When Lens Unfold

Narratives

Borbála Kálmán invites the reader to a journey across interwoven family narratives, through the lens of internationally renowned photojournalist Pablo Bartholomew and the archives of his father, art critic Richard Bartholomew; a quest stretching from Burma to India, and far further.

mmersed in his thoughts, a young Burmese man in his thirties takes a moment to pause while typing on his machine. The smoke of his cigarette escapes through the open windows of a room impregnated with a strong mood of the 1950s. Richard Bartholomew, one of India’s most well known and significant art critics, defines himself by means of a serene and meaningful self-portrait. Even though photography is one of his passions and work-tools, it is his son, Pablo Bartholomew, who will fulfill the role of this connection between father and son. Together, they will make up a family sharing a layered past, waiting to reveal a complex narrative, unveiling new readings of a history closely connected with Burma.

Infused with Photography ‘Photography is independent and fluid; photography is the most compact means of expression,’ says Pablo Bartholomew. Pablo learnt the magic of photography as a youth in the home-made darkroom of his father, Richard Bartholomew, whose Burmese name was Ko Thein Pe. Quitting school prematurely, Pablo devoted his time to this medium, seeking a path to become a professional photographer. He did not have to wait long before tasting success: he had only turned 20 when he was awarded a World Press Photo first prize in 1975. The feature picture story ‘Time is the Mercy of Eternity’ captured staggering moments of morphine addicts’ daily existence in his hometown New Delhi.

Pablo knew this world well, having spent several days of his adolescence in similar circumstances. Westernisation was making headway in India, bringing new interpretations regarding the context of contemporary life, even so these pictures showed a part of society that was known by few. The prestige brought by the prize, however, was short-lived – it did not provide financial security. The young photographer started working in the Bombay film industry, making stills for movies such as Richard Attenborough’s Gandhi, and doing well-paid ads. At the same time, he carried on his individual photographic activities, trying to embark on a permanent

Gallerist Virendra Kumar with Artists Krishen Khanna and Ram Kumar at a party, New Delhi, circa 1967. Photo: Courtesy of the Estate of Richard Bartholomew.

March 2015 / InDepth

ART 9

career in photojournalism. Appreciation of his work only surfaced in the early 80s when he became one of the most wanted photographers for Gamma Liaison, an international photo agency. In 1983, Pablo arrived for the first time in Rangoon, the town that his father had left four decades earlier, when escaping the Japanese invasion of WWII. Although Pablo’s assignment for National Geographic was to cover Burma from differing aspects, the young photographer took a specific interest in the Rangoon telephoneregisters, as well as the records of St Paul’s School, looking for potential clues leading to his family’s Burmese roots. This nascent research was aborted before the full story unfolded. It was only many years later that he was contacted by relatives in Myanmar who had found the online archives of his father, Richard. Success and deep sorrow followed in 1985. Pablo’s photo taken during the Bophal gas tragedy was awarded the World Press Photo of the Year bringing him international recognition, but also his father suddenly passed away, and with him disappeared a major part of Pablo’s past. Richard Bartholomew’s passing away was a tragic loss not only for the family, but also for Indian cultural life he was one of the key figures of the contemporary Indian art scene, as well as an art critic, curator, photographer, poet, writer and painter. A Universal Mind ‘Our society, like all mechanised, modern societies, tends to take art for granted. A society that takes its art for granted creates an atmosphere for lethargy, passivity and polite indifference. It does not provide the artist with the mirror of himself that he expects,’ wrote Richard Bartholomew in 1959. The son of a Burma Railways chief engineer, he was born in 1926 in Dawei, hometown of Richard’s mother, who was of Mon origin. He started his studies at the exclusive St Paul’s School. He was only sixteen when war unexpectedly hit Rangoon. The family decided to flee, marching along the Ledo (Stilwell) Road in the direction of Assam, India. On their exhausting journey they found shelter amongst the Burma Naga tribes. Received warmly, the family was able to safely continue their journey. Pablo later referred to the memory of this stay as one of the ‘bedtime-stories’ his father told, and would become one of Pablo’s most remarkable long-term projects, documenting for more than a decade the life of the Naga ‘head hunters’ who provided safe passage to families fleeing the war. Richard finished his studies in Delhi in the early 1950s, during which he married Rati, Pablo’s mother. He almost immediately immersed himself into the local art scene. Having a progressive mind, and looking ahead of his time, he focused on the ‘winds of change’ that were occurring at that time. His vision of art was universal. He was a ‘Renaissance man’ – believing in a global cultural raison d’être, a reason for being. He soon became an interpreter of the new generation of Indian ‘moderns’. He highlighted emerging talented artists, and introduced contemporary art to an as yet uninitiated general public. He shaped the art scene through his voice but he was more than a critic. He left behind almost 20.000 neg-

Nommie dancing at a party at Koko's, New Delhi, 1975. Photo: Courtesy of the artist.

atives documenting his life, creating, as art historian Geeta Kapur termed, ‘period pictures’ of a Post-Independence Indian generation ‘wearing the full existentialist persona of the modern artist’. These are photos taken through the eyes of a man who sought to understand art as a whole, independent from the surrounding context. He died at the age of only 58, having curated major contemporary exhibitions, directed institutions such as the first museum of Tibetan art and having published constantly for thirty years. 'When Family Narratives Create Public Memory', the initiative of researching individual narratives and completing them with an accurate reconstruction of specific environmental contexts, gains its importance through time; given that the past is continuous, and has a strong impact on the present. This is an approach that can help nourish public memory and allow new readings of cultures; a vision capable of challenging official histories filled with the political acts of leaders and movements. Pablo Bartholomew is now about to embark on a fascinating project in Myanmar: looking forward to achieving a deeper understanding of a common past through personal histories, starting with the history of his own family. After becoming a freelancer in 1999, he began to rediscover his own early works, together with his father’s archives. For years, he worked on hundreds of writings, and thousands of photographs, to revive the forgotten knowledge of his father, through exhibitions and catalogues. During these years Pablo realised how personal visions can bring more understanding to a recent era. He awoke sleeping stories of Myanmar, (re)discovering threads that could rewrite his past. As a photojournalist, his main focus is migration, be it economic or forced, and its differing aspects. Pablo swims ‘against the tide’ for this project, in the quest of an age that precedes his own family’s migration. During the course of Pablo’s research, different narratives have been documented that will eventually capture a flow of changes, leading to a depiction of how contemporary societies might relate to their history.

Richard Bartholomew: Self Portrait, Delhi, 1956. Photo: Courtesy of the Estate of Richard Bartholomew.

‘The Past is the Present’ is the title of a workshop to be organised by Pablo Bartholomew in March 2015 at Myanmar Deitta, Yangon. The idea is to begin a process of researching, recording and re-imagining personal histories within Myanmar, which will eventually complement each other, bringing to the surface even more unexpected denouements for the reading of culture. g

March 2015 / InDepth

10 FASHION

The Father of Models Mimi Wu sat down with notoriously busy John Lwin to chat about his beginnings in fashion, and what went into planning this year’s Myanmar International Fashion Week.

etween entertaining guests, overseeing photo shoots, and embarking on a trip outside Yangon, John Lwin somehow managed to squeeze in this interview. He charges toward me, accompanied by Judson Fish, a stylist from Tokyo, and greets me in what I gather is his daily uniform – dark jeans, black T-shirt, and some distractingly bright bling on his right ear. ‘For me, I don’t really like wearing suits. After wearing suits, I get very irritated. Sometimes foreigners come for meetings in suits, but I cannot.’ As a former model, now turned founder and CEO of Stars and Models International that represents over 200 models, he has authority in fashion. Recently, Lwin hosted the Myanmar International Fashion Week from 6-8 February, through his other successful venture, Star Event Productions. ‘This is the third time I have hosted Fashion Week. I’m the first person ever in Myanmar to think of organising Fashion Week; people call me the Father of Models.’

Yet despite his status in Myanmar’s fashion world, his foray into modelling and fashion was purely unintentional. In 1988, Lwin’s father shipped him off to Singapore for an English-speaking course. He quickly changed gear to hotel management, and worked a graveyard shift at a cassette factory to supplement his monthly allowance. Everything changed one morning while Lwin was waiting for a bus on Orchard Road.

‘A talent scout picked me out and asked if I wanted to be a model. I didn’t know anything about modelling at that time.’ When he found he could make $200 per show as a newcomer and up to $800 per show after becoming better known, Lwin jumped at the opportunity.

March 2015 / InDepth

FASHION 11 to educate people on how to dress for the right place and the right time. Otherwise, some people will wear an evening dress to a shopping centre.” Lwin does not advocate for having any one specific clothing item in your wardrobe. Instead, he advocates for dressing appropriately. ‘What kind of business you are in is more important. Let’s take a schoolboy; what does he have to wear – normal shirt and pants, nothing crazy, not punk [clothing] or eye make-up. Those things should be special, not everyday wear.” That said, Lwin admits that jeans should be a staple, and they are a regular part of his style. What else is he promoting this season – ‘A lot of green and orange coloured clothes.’ Judson Fish, 2015 Myanmar International Fashion Week Stylist A serendipitous meeting: I met John [Lwin] just six months ago in Tokyo. We were talking about the fashion industry in Japan and Yangon. He said, “Why don’t you give it a try in Myanmar as a stylist?”

‘I became quite popular, and got to travel for shows throughout Asia, in Singapore, Hong Kong, Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand, and the Philippines. In 1992, I won ‘Face of the Year’ in Singapore.’ Modelling was highly lucrative for Lwin; however, when he suffered a face injury, resulting in a week off work, Lwin thought of his next step. 'In 1995, I organised the first fashion show in Myanmar, and I trained lots of models for it. I also organised a Rave Party. After that, because the party and fashion show were so successful, people asked, ‘Why don’t you set up a modelling agency here in Myanmar?’” That year, Lwin opened the Stars and Models International Agency and Star Event Productions, which is an event-organising service that compliments the modelling agency. Lwin proudly told me his company registration number – 001. Because of his international experience, Lwin has an astute understanding of industry preferences for different countries. ‘Myanmar model prefrencing is very different. They don’t really like the model-model look in this market; they like models to be a little bit round and cute. When scouting for models, even if someone doesn’t have money, I don’t care. I drive around town and if I see somebody who can happen, I pick them and train them because I want them to be successful like me.’ Lwin’s agency boasts an impressive pool of models and atypically, famous movie stars. Along with training, comes a dose of Lwin’s realism. ‘In my classes, I tell them, ‘You cannot be a model all the time. Sometimes something happens, a face injury for example. You cannot be model anymore, so that’s the reason why we have to think about the business step as well.’ Modelling can be a stepping-stone in becoming a movie star or a singer, so I try to promote this

transition. That’s why I have so many movie stars in my agency.” As for the 2015 Myanmar International Fashion Week, Lwin explained the basics of organising such an event. ‘I planned six months ahead. I talked to local and international designers, and I also brought in seven international models who live in Thailand but are from Europe so as to give the 120 local models who walked in the show a global perspective.’ To select those who showcased at Fashion Week, he relied on his ability to spot talented designers based on their individual fashion shows. If impressed, Lwin would invite the designer to develop a line. ‘This year, the highlight of the show was PANDORA. The beginning was really crazy, I was shocked, you know. She can compete with European designers – the finishing, sewing, everything.’ Lwin noted that while Myanmar designers are hard working and creative, he also invited international brands to support the show. ‘They can come with a complete set, and Myanmar designers can learn from that.’ At the end of the day, Lwin’s dedication lies with his models, so organising Fashion Week was a matter of simple demand-and-supply economics. ‘Most countries have fashion week. I set up the modelling fashion industry in Myanmar, so I feel like I have a duty to set up and promote fashion designers. Once fashion designers grow and the fashion industry grows, my models will get more and more jobs, and my modelling agency will also grow. That’s the reason why I combine the two together.’ Where does he see Myanmar’s fashion industry heading? ‘Now, it’s growing. There are lots of designers, lots of people starting to wear evening dresses. All the young people look at fashion shows and photos online, and they are learning how to dress up. We need

What does a stylist do? What I’m doing is matching the model to the clothes and arranging the hair. Of course we have designers and make-up artists as well, but I’m the one who combines it all together. How long did it take you to prepare for Fashion Week? You have to prepare a month ahead! I had to collect the models, the designs, so we had to grab everything together. We were doing 70 fittings a day. The thing is, we have to go to the designers. Usually, designers will deliver clothes to a main office, but here we had to go to their studio time and time again. Four rounds each day, and 30 minutes to change. Were you ever frustrated? Not upset, but I felt a little confused. What’s happening here, how do they do it here? But I can tell everyone loves fashion. […] people are more thirsty for fashion than in Japan. I predict within five years, Myanmar fashion will be more … [makes a boom sound]. What are you working on now that Fashion Week is over? I’m here until Water Festival, doing magazine shoots and cover shoots. I’m also doing my own collection for Water Festival. What do you do in Tokyo? I’m producing fashion launches. I once worked with Rihanna’s stylist Henry Holland who wanted to do a runway show. Japan is so fashionable! Even for us Japanese, we have different tastes according to the city. Tokyo fashion has two parts – an Asian style and an international global vibe. I live in the middle of Tokyo, so there’s a combination of the K-pop, cute and colourful image, and the Hollywood, classy and chic image. Any fashion advice? For men, they should be easy and fun, and they shouldn’t wear too many accessories – t-shirt and scratched-up jeans. Women should also be laid-back, effortless, chill, so people can easily wear what you’re wearing. That’s called fashion, for me. g

12 COVER STORY

March 2015 / InDepth

A Gentle Legend,

A Lethal Fighter Mimi Wu talked with celebrated Myanmar kick boxer Lone Chaw about his career as a professional fighter, and his transition into a much sought after trainer, and discovers that it is not only talent but also his humility that makes Lone Chaw a champion.

he taxi driver pulled up to an unmarked red gate at Thut Ti Lethwei Boxing School, and Lone Chaw, one of Myanmar’s most famous Lethwei boxers, comes up to greet me. He is well built, youthful, and has a toothless, easy smile that belies his 39 years age. Lethwei is a brutal sport, and it is one that Lone Chaw has mastered over the last 20 years. Crowned three times Myanmar National Champion, you may expect him to exude a menacing energy. Quite the opposite; Lone Chaw is gentle and reserved. He reasons pragmatically, ‘Outside, it is real life. Inside the ring it is an opponent, it is competition. If I don’t kick or hit, the other person will. It’s my job.’ Win Zin Oo, his trainer since 2004 and translator for our interview adds, ‘He is very honest and straight forward. He is seldom angry and very patient. He is aggressive in the ring but not outside.’ Lone Chaw first watched lethwei at age ten on TV. It piqued his interest, but it didn’t fuel a passion – yet. In 1995, Lone Chaw, then 19, began participating in amateur fights commissioned for pagoda festivals in his native Ayeyarwady Region. His cousin, a lethwei fighter, trained him. ‘My father and mother didn’t like it. For his first fight, I told my parents I was going to the pagoda festival, but I didn’t tell them my intention. They didn’t see this fight. Only later they came to realise I was fighting in the ring because some villagers who went to the festival told them.’

His parents’ concern was justifiable; at a novice level fight, Lone Chaw split his bottom lip, requiring eight stitches. It was certainly his most memorable injury, but scars eventually fade, and no injury could stop him from sneaking out of the house to fight. ‘Injuries are not that painful,’ Lone Chaw laughs. They are par for the course.’ Of Lethwei, Lone Chaw says it’s a martial art form of which Myanmar should be proud. In that vein and because the Ayeyarwady Region did not boast a Myanmar champion, he was determined to be a successful professional fighter. He moved to Yangon in 1999 to pursue that goal.

Lethwei (literally “hand” and “punching”) is a martial arts form similar to other Southeast Asian kickboxing, which all allow fighters to use their limbs, knees and elbows. Though lethwei uses a point scoring system, following that of Muay Thai kickboxing since 1996, the sport does not have an official ranking system. It does not have many rules either. Unlike Muay Thai, lethwei fighters work more deliberately but are stronger, and they utilise more extreme methods to defeat an opponent by knockout or withdrawal. In addition to kicks, strikes, and punches, lethwei fighters are the only Indochinese martial artists that can also use head butts, raking knuckle strikes, and take downs. The only protections that are allowed are hemp or gauze hand wrapping, and mouthguards.

March 2015 / InDepth

COVER STORY 13

Lethwei (literally 'hand' and 'punching') is a martial arts form similar to other Southeast Asian kickboxing ... all allow fighters to use their limbs, knees, and elbows.

When I asked him how it felt every time he entered the ring before a professional match, I expected him to have felt amped up on adrenaline or possibly even nervous. Instead, he humbly said, ‘I feel lucky that I have a fight partner to help me. If there is no opponent, there is no reason to be famous.’

advocating for gloves; Lone Chaw believes that this, among many other aspects, makes lethwei unique and should be preserved.

What about pre-fight rituals? ‘In my early days, I noticed many other fighters wearing amulets, and so I copied it. I don’t remember when I started this, but I remember my father asking, ‘What is that?’ I said that other people tied strings around their arms, and I wanted to put it on my arm, too.’

‘After retirement, Lone Chaw planned to return to his Ayeyarwady Region village as a farmer, but I advised him to be a trainer because he has a lot of experience. So he started teaching one person, two persons,’ said Win Zin Oo.

In every fight, Lone Chaw sizes up the competition by studying how his opponent moves and holds his hands, as well as by listening to instructions from his competition’s trainer. These observations along with his talent have led him to three of his greatest victories: the Interstate Division Title in 1999 and the Golden Belt in 2005 and 2007.

His tough training has led him to compete in 150 fights in Myanmar and Japan, where he has some of his most vivid memories. ‘Once when I fought in Japan, my opponent came into the ring with a samurai sword. I was really scared, but then I realised it was only for show.’ It was also in Japan, at age 29, that he took down a local Nagasaki juijitsu star in less than one minute, awing the audience.

Lone Chaw recalled his fight against the legendary Shwe War Tun whom he had admired before he became a professional fighter. ‘Shwe War Tun is an idol for me because of his fighting capability. I really respect him. I had mixed feelings when fighting - respect, excitement, and a sense of honour. The fact that I won the fight made me even more excited about competing, and I learned a lot of fighting techniques by competing with him, so it was really memorable.’ Over his 20 years in the sport, Lone Chaw has seen many changes. He observes, ‘When I started, I had to fight seven to twelve rounds. I fought until I won or lost. Now, the rule is five rounds. This is good, there are less injuries.’ Despite this, you will not find him

Lone Chaw retired in 2012 after his last formal fight, due to his age.

Lone Chaw is not completely out of the game. As an icon in Myanmar boxing, he participated in a technique demonstration in 2014, the latter against Shwe War Tun who had also long been retired. However, since joining Win Zin Oo’s Thut Ti Lethwei Boxing School in 2012 as a coach, he spends most of his time training other competitors, celebrities, and individuals looking for a fitness outlet. Retirement does not mean he can take a break from his own training; he still undergoes rigorous sparring, clinching, and pad work exercises with students. Their photos are displayed near the school’s entrance, and banners of promising fighters surround the fighting ring. In particular, Lone Chaw has taken immense pride in training two foreigners who are beyond competition age yet display great skill and have captured audiences’ attentions in their professional fights. His students’ mutual appreciation drives his desire to continue coaching. He hopes by teaching others about the sport, that he can improve lethwei and make the martial art more reputable. g

March 2015 / InDepth

14 TRAVEL

Kuching The New Sarawak State Legislative Assembly Building stands prominently across the river from Kuching’s waterfront promenade, overshadowing the old colonial relics peppered around the city.

In Malaysia there is much to explore, from the Hills of the Cameron Highlands to the beaches of Pulau Perhentian. Often overlooked, however, is the state of Sarawak, in East Malaysia, sitting on the north-eastern side of the Island of Borneo. Griffin Hotchkiss travels to Kuching, Sarawak’s capital and largest city for an excursion into nature and a bit of Sarawak cuisine.

uching is a spectacular destination to make a connection with nature and delve into a rich cultural history. Sarawak has a timeline entirely distinct from western Malaysia; it was ruled for a century by British Rajah, James Brooke, and his descendants, ‘The White Rajahs’, until the island was invaded by the Japanese. Unlike many other British colonies of the time, the Brooke dynasty was in fact protective of indigenous cultures, and limited external influence from the main cities. Granted independence

from the British in 1963, Sarawak was then accepted into Malaysia shortly thereafter. The waterfront of Kuching is picturesque and relaxed, with many shops, guesthouses and restaurants, to stroll by and enjoy the atmosphere. The main waterfront street also has many travel agencies to help plan for day trips and excursions outside the city. For those interested in discovering more about the history of East Malaysia, the Sarawak Museum is quaint and well worth a visit. Established in 1888, filled with artifacts and informa-

tion about the indigenous peoples of Sarawak, and their interactions with the Brooke dynasty. Adjacent to the main building of the museum is an art gallery that displays traditional works made of beads and other mediums, as well as contemporary creations from around Sarawak. Sarawak-style food Like all parts of Malaysia, food in Kuching is a delicious medley influenced by a variety of culinary traditions. Sarawak serves many of the dishes you might find in a typical food centre in Kuala Lumpur, but also has an entirely unique menu and style. My two favourite dishes, laksa and roti canai, are actually found all over Malaysia, but prepared in a way that I’ve only ever encountered in Kuching.

Sarawak Laksa

Kuching’s river promenade is the perfect place to stroll around after sunset.

Sarawak Laksa Unlike the rich, creamy laksa egg noodles and broth you might find in Penang or Singapore, Sarawak Laksa is refreshingly light and bitter, with tamarind sauce and fresh lime juice to accompany shrimp and chicken. I am normally not a fan of laksa, but I was able to polish off a few bowls in one sitting.

March 2015 / InDepth

TRAVEL 15

Roti Canai made with corned beef

Roti Canai Nearly every southeast Asian country has a variant of pratha, which is a simple dough stretched thin and fried with fillings of fruit, eggs, or meat. Only in Sarawak is it made with onions and corned beef. Served with a side of curry, it’s a perfect late afternoon snack.

The famous proboscis monkey, which in my opinion looks like an old English butler.

There are no roads into the 10 square mile peninsula, so we arranged for a van to take us to Bako, where we hired a boat to take us around the outside to the park’s main camp. Large, prominent signs warning tourists of crocodile attacks are posted up around the jetty – they are graphic and alarming, but a good way to start an adventure! Our basic cabin had only beds and a fan, basic at best but not bad for 20 ringit. We had a short day hike planned, but we decided to relax at the mess hall with coffee and tea, and watch the macaques and (semi) wild pigs around the hall. The macaques are cunning creatures; I watched a bold female steal a can of coke from a nearby table, bite into it, drink the entire contents, burp loudly, and then toss it over the shoulder in a manner that would make any American fraternity proud!

Kuching Layer Cake.

Kuching Layer Cake All along the waterfront street in downtown Kuching, there are various shops that will sell a special kind of layer cake that comes in almost any colour you can think of. I settled on a delicious violet cake that was smooth and not too sweet. Bako National Park Excursion North of Kuching is Bako National Park. Bako is Malaysia’s oldest and smallest national park, and home to the world-famous priboscus monkeys, which can sometimes be seen from the park’s headquarters. Bako’s main area has a lodges, bungalows, and private chalets, all easily rentable in advance, and likely available on arrival depending on the season. For the more adventurous, there are also designated campsites available to rent, but you must bring your own equipment. My two good friends and I visited Bako for just a few days over the summer.

After a surprisingly delicious meal, we decided to sign up for a nighttime guided trek. At around 8.00pm we met our guide, who was extremely friendly, and extremely short in stature. He explained to our group that we should try to trek with our lights off, so that our eyes could stay adjusted to the low light in the jungle. When something of interest was ahead, he would flash his light, and we were to remain as quiet as possible. Over the course of the three hour hike we

The halfway point in our hike.

observed huge spiders, rainforest frogs, flying squirrels and all manner of insects, but the highlight for me was a small sleeping bird on a branch less than a metre above our heads. The main activity in Bako is undoubtedly trekking; there are 16 hiking trails mapped out that can take anywhere from 3 hours to 3 days to traverse. My friends and I are not expert hikers, but we still wanted something challenging, so we agreed on a trail that takes 8-10 hours round trip to the tip of the Peninsula. Instead of hiking out and back, we found one of the many boatmen around the park headquarters and arranged to be dropped off on the beach near the end of the trail. After a touch-and-go beach landing, we were on our own. The hike up from the sandstone cliffs into the jungle was challenging, and frequently we made use of rope ladders and wooden steps erected for the trail by the park. At the halfway point in our hike, the trail opened up to an enormous stone cliff, with an enclosed beach below. As with the jetty, there are many signs warning tourists not to swim in the water, as there are many jellyfish and marine stingers; we were just fine with tossing a frisbee around on our own private beach for the afternoon. After a time, we continued back to the park headquarters to observe the Proboscis Monkeys at sunset. g

March 2015 / InDepth

16 IMPRESSIONS

THE RIVER OF LOST FOOTSTEPS Rudyard Kipling, English short-story writer, poet, and novelist, and the first English-language recipient of the Nobel Prize for Literature, visited Rangoon for just one day and a night, on his way to the Thailand, Japan and the United States. He was twenty-four years old. Bob Percival takes us on a shared journey on Kipling’s brief foray through the streets and sights of the city.

ANGOON, B u r m a , December 1889 — Rudyard Kipling stepped out from the grand entrance to the great pagoda, Shwedagon Paya; the beautiful winking wonder, he called it. The two giant cinthes, the Burmese lions guarding the Paya, looked past him out to the river and onwards to the Gulf of Martaban. Later that night, after drinking at the Club, Kipling would dream of young Burmese girls descending a giant staircase, only to find at the bottom of its steps, a dead British soldier carried down from the river of lost footsteps, another fatal mishap in the grand endeavour, probably shot by a dacoit while tying up his shoelace. Kipling’s ascent of the pagoda steps had been incomplete. He had stopped midway, frozen in a darkness that carried flickering shadows of Buddha statues and smells of sandalwood incense and burning wax oil.

past the old town down to the river, to the mills, warehouses and jetties. The small pony bucked against the wooden staffs, cranky at having to pull the heavy load. Kipling knew that he was part of this white man's burden. He knew that East was East, and West was West. He still believed in the empire that stretched to Burma, its furthest border. He believed in its might and strength; it's ability to make things happen, to transform what was only being wasted, into precious goods to be distributed throughout the glorious Empire that was Britain.

He hopped up into the ticca gharry, squeezing himself into what seemed to be an untidy wooden packing case on wheels. Earlier in the day he had travelled in this same gharry, to the English quarter of Rangoon where the sahibs lived in frail wooden houses made out of the sides of cigar boxes placed on uneven ground and dusty reddish roads. Not fitting of the Indian Empire he thought. Parked at the edge of the Royal Lakes he saw the Englishmen and their wives, boating on its still waters, and the monasteries and golden-robed monks dotting the shoreline. A multitude of smaller pagodas stretched all the way up to the Shwedagon. The small Burmese pony started up with a reluctant jolt, coaxed on by the sleepy gharry wallah. The shutters on the window, usually barring any view, were broken so he was able to have a clear sight of the route on his way to the Club. The fading western light caught the glittering tops of hundreds of small stupas studding the mounds of fresh earth stretching down

British forces arrival at Mandalay, 1885

The pony steered its way into the sun, towards the Club; Kipling wanted to hear the stories from the jungles far up north, at the headwaters of the great Irrawaddy. Out the window Kipling saw the grand houses of the cantonment drift by, half-hidden in the thick groves of trees and bamboo. He looked back from the gharry, to see the bats circling above the Shwedagon where the topmost ‘htee of gold, rubies, diamonds and sapphires had recently stood; it had fallen in a recent earthquake he was told. Kipling’s companion had added, ‘You should have seen it when… !’ Kipling

March 2015 / InDepth

IMPRESSIONS 17 staircase into a room peopled by uniforms and dinner suits. The place smelt of cigars and expensive Egyptian tobacco. Kipling drank gin and lime, poured over ice brought over all the way from Boston, packed in straw, and stored in hulls of the worlds fastest steamers. He drank and listened; stories of Mandalay and the jungles, tiger hunting and the tracking down of dacoits, of men killed and men disgraced, of the paddle wheel steamer that plied the waters, and of giant stands of teak, and the elephants that worked the massive logs into the flooded river forming the rafts that would float down to Mandalay and Rangoon, and also.

cringed. Beauty was already there, it didn’t have to be added to. The gharry stumbled down Kemmendine Road, and turned left into Prome Road, then up to the large iron gates of the Club. In front of Kipling stood the grandeur of the British in Burma; beautifully constructed two-storied residences built in teak, which housed the club’s members and those allowed to stay the night. The sounds of a dance band could be heard, playing out a slow waltz. This was mixed with the sound of

dogs barking, and the smell of ngapi coming from the nearby servant quarters; a smell that only belonged to Burma, this was not India. The night was warm, bringing out the smell of jasmine and roses growing in the garden beds that bordered the dirt road leading up to the main entrance. Kipling could already hear the guffawed laughs of soldiers drinking, and the loud singing of men around an out of tune piano. This is what Kipling wanted. The bravado of men who had experienced death; this was a place full of men on their way up or down. He was on his way up; up and across to Siam, on to Japan and then further to the new land of America where he would meet Mark Twain, a hero in writing. Kipling was only twenty-four but had already published six books. He had enough money to escape London, and be here on the furthest edge of the Empire. The cart pulled up at doorway where the band was playing just inside. He stepped out into a lavish room of full of English ladies dressed in their latest London frocks, perspiring in the heat as they danced. He worked his way through the crowd, up the elegant

Rangoon, 1914

He kept drinking, becoming intoxicated with words of blood, death, bravado and fool’s incompetence. His head whirled with the music and song rising up through the polished floorboards below. A poem began to take shape, a poem of Mandalay and this river of lost footsteps, and of the Burman, who in one single day he had learnt to admire, and the pretty Burmese girls that he had fallen in love with just by a passing glance as he saw them selling flowers at the pagoda steps. He had to leave now, and write down everything while he was still able to smell and feel this Burma. He would stay at the Club. He was offered a local girl but declined. He didn't want to be one of the British. He needed to remain separate. It was enough to hear the stories. Kipling fell onto the crisp white sheets of his bed – images of young girls began to swirl as they descended the staircase to the fallen soldier. In imagined that in his next life he would be a Burman … when I die I will be a Burman, with twenty yards of real King's silk, that has been made in Mandalay, about my body, and a succession of cigarettes between my lips … I will always walk about with a pretty almond-coloured girl who shall laugh and jest too … She shall look all the world between the eyes, in honesty and good fellowship, and I will teach her not to defile her pretty mouth with chopped tobacco in a cabbage leaf, but to inhale good cigarettes of Egypt's best brand. g

18 ADVENTURE

March 2015 / InDepth

ADVENTURE 19

Hpa-An

by Bryan Berenguer As I’m getting older and slower, I don’t take many weekend trips that involve overnight buses, two nights in three or four days. However, the kindness of the people, and the dramatic limestone landscape of the landscape of Kayin state have enticed me to Hpa-an from Yangon for many a weekend trip.

rriving on the overnight bus to Hpa-an around 4.00am in the morning, I hop off at the deserted market and make tracks to my favourite guest house, which despite being booked out, has kindly set a mattress and mosquito net out on the veranda for me to catch a few hours sleep. At first light, I make my way down to the river to watch the sun rise over the east bank of the river, behind which limestone outcrops rise up above the plain. It’s quiet, the shops are still closed, and at times it seems this scene is unfolding just for you. After a walk back to the central market and a short breakfast at the teashop, I arrive at the guesthouse as the staff are taking up their posts. I rent a motorbike and head out of town to the south, towards the 1,000 Buddha statue park at the base of Mount Zwegabin. This is also the starting point for my morning trek, which takes me up what seems like thousands of steps for a two-hour uphill climb through beautiful forest, to the monastery at its peak. Arriving breathless at the summit, the morning clouds have mostly dissipated, some still clinging to the mountainside, the rest drifting off over the plains below. The view is amazing. The solitary resident monk who cares for the monastery comes up and invites me to an early lunch. We chat, despite my limited Myanmar, and he tells me over and over again how excited he is that there will soon be a project to build a cable car to the top of the mountain, which will bring more visitors to his remote monastery. After lunch I spend time looking out from the top of the mountain, then walk the one-and-a-half hours back down, retrieve my motorbike and go for a swim at the Kyauk Ka Taung waterfall, whose origin is a spring inside a nearby cave. The cool clean water is very welcome. I continue on the circuit around Mount Zwegabin to Kyauk Ka Lat Pagoda, situated high on a rock pillar in the middle of a vast man-made lake. With Mount Zwegabin in the background, the lake reflects the clouds above. I take in the peaceful coun-

tryside, so opposite to the noise left behind in Yangon only the night before. Local girls on their way to visit the pagoda come over and shyly ask where I’m from, and if they can practice their English. They smile timidly between gaps in speaking, trying to recall English words. We talk for about twenty minutes, then we go off on our separate ways. It will be dark soon and I make my way to an out-ofthe-way restaurant called The Queen, near the road that goes back to Hpa-an. The owners here speak ex-

cellent English and are local Internet celebrities. We talk about the changes in Myanmar – water becomes beer, and a guitar comes out. I don’t realise how late it was when I return to the hostel, to fall into a deep sleep. The next day I’m up again at sunrise at the bridge on Kan Thar Yar lake, to watch the sunrise over the mountains, and then on to the central market for a long breakfast, and off again south, this time crossing Thanlwin River to the west and head to Kawgun Cave, where thousands of small Buddhas are carved into the walls at impressive heights. Afterwards, I make my way back to central Hpa-an, to gather my bag at the guesthouse and move on to to Shwe Yin Myaw Pagoda on the river, for a nap on the cool tiled floor inside. From there I hop back on to the motorbike and head north, past the golf course and airport, then east for a beautiful motorbike ride, past more steep outcrops, paddy fields, and occasional monastery and cave. Arriving back to Hpa-an I return the bike and jump onto a bus for the overnight journey back to Yangon. g

March 2015 / InDepth

20 FESTIVAL

Manau Festival in Myitkyina In early January Heinz Willems travelled to Myitkyina for the Kachin Manau festival, which was to be held for the first time in four years.

yitkyina is the capital of the northern Kachin State of Myanmar. In Myanmar language it means â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;near the big riverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, and Myitkyina is on the west bank of the Ayeyarwady River, just 40 kms south of the confluence (Myitsone in Myanmar language) of its two headstreams (the Malikha and Maykha rivers). It is the site of the controversial Myitsone Dam, construction of which was suspended in 2011 due to significant ecological and sociological concerns as well as negative public opinion on the project. Myanmar people regard the Ayeyarwady River as the birthplace of Myanmar civilisation and its confluence point has a special significance. The majority of the state's 1.2 million inhabitants are ethnic Kachin. The term Kachin includes a variety of different linguistic groups with overlapping territories and integrated social structures. These are notably the Rawang, the Lisu, the Zaiwa, the Lashi/Lachik, the Lawngwaw and primarily the Jingpo/Jinghpaw, who are also found in neighbouring Yunnan Province of China and the Indian state of Arunachal Pradesh. From the late 19th Century, Christian missionar-

ies (mainly Roman Catholic and Baptist) arrived in Kachin and started converting the local population, which was practising animism until then. Today more than half of the Kachin people identify themselves as Christians. There are a number of churches scattered around Myitkyina but it is in the surrounding region that they are most noticeable, their anachronistic towers rising above the surrounding mostly wood and bamboo houses. Myitkyina itself is a very sleepy town, stretching along the riverside. While the town itself lies in a large flat valley, mountains can be seen all around in the distance. Most of the buildings are less than four stories tall, with only the occasional apartment building or hotel rising higher. Beautiful massive old trees are dotted around town and certain streets are lined with them. The streets are neat, with wider ones having a green median strip. They bustle with cars, three-wheelers (which are the common form of taxis here) and motorbikes. The town centre is marked by the sprawling warehouse-like structure of the market, close to the riverside. All around it are street vendors that cover the

March 2015 / InDepth

FESTIVAL 21 a similarly shiny Hindu temple. The religious diversity of the town is further illustrated by a number of mosques and a Sikh temple. There are some nice riverside restaurants in Myitkyina. Just across from the market is Riverview, a drab wooden structure with a wonderful view over the river, as anticipated by the name. They offer the standard beer station barbeque cum Chinese fare but also do reasonable dim sum in the mornings. The other notable riverside venue is much more popular with the youth. Called Kiss Me, it doesn’t serve alcohol, being just next to a temple, but does have great coffee, juices and shakes and also does a wide range of food, including sandwiches, waffles and an excellent banana roll. For a more western ambience, Pizza Korner (sic) is a relatively new place, spread across a large wooden terrace. Jinghpaw Thu offers the best Kachin traditional dishes, which are quite spicy. They are much less oily than typical Myanmar dishes, often served wrapped in a banana leaf and a speciality is the ‘pounded dishes’. These can be made with meat or fish which are literally pounded into mash with chilli, herbs and spices, and is delicious with some rice. The Manau Festival is the most important cultural event for Kachin people, and has its origins in spirit worship. It is celebrated at a special venue, marked with a 12-pillar structure of which each element has special significance. The Manau dance is performed by two groups, in a kind of line dance around the central structure, following a hypnotic beat of drums and gongs. Every dance lasts about three hours and is performed twice a day for five days.

road in the evening. Walking through some wooden stalls, one suddenly comes out at the riverside. This being the dry season, the water is far below, with a wide stretch of sand leading to it. In the distance you can just see the uppermost bridge of Ayeyarwady, which connects to the Mandalay highway. Opposite the market, by the riverside, is a shiny, golden Buddhist temple and just a hundred metres further on is

The last time the Manau festival was held in Kachin State was in 2011. It was halted thereafter when a 17-ceasefire ended between government forces and the Kachin Independence Organisation (KIO). This year there was some controversy about the government decision to stage the festival despite ongoing clashes in the region and apparently the number of people attending was much smaller than previously. Nevertheless, the number of people are larger every day and there were especially big crowds on the main day. I went to the festival park on the edge of the town several times over three days. It’s a big park with the circular dance ground in the centre. All around were

stalls selling various things from food, traditional medicines and handicrafts, to jade and massive teak tables. There were also a couple of stages on different sides where music performances and a beauty contest were held in the evenings. Basically it was a funfair atmosphere. There were very few foreigners and we were given VIP treatment. Local English-speaking students volunteered as guides, and at lunchtime we were given food and drink, including traditional rice wine, drunk out of a bamboo stem. During the dances we could wander around the dance ground at will, while most of the audience had to stay around the edge. We could thus get very good close-up photos of the action. The music itself is quite repetitive, seemingly consisting of no more than four distinct songs, but the hypnotic beat drives the dancers on. Members of the audience are free to join in the later stages of the dance and as a foreigner one is especially welcomed. Joining the line one can feel the energy and joyful spirit of the people, both young and old. Most are smiling and clearly having a great time. The men hold up and wave their ceremonial swords while the women move their hands in graceful circular motions. Others are doing their own kind of jig. The dance leaders follow markings on the ground, and the line snakes its way around the central pillars, sometimes forming parallel lines, sometimes closing in on itself in a spiral. There are ‘supervisors’ who make sure that the dancers follow the lines and don’t get tangled up. The leaders of the groups wear long robes with headdresses of hornbill and peacock feathers or tusks of wild boar. People wear beautifully embroidered traditional costumes with the colours red and black dominating. Some additionally have elaborate silver ornaments around their necks that jingle during dancing. On the afternoon of the last day, the dance goes on well beyond three hours. I join in for the last hour or so, as the line of people winds its way around the pillars. The dance steps are essentially slight squats and after some time the thigh muscles start to ache. I can’t imagine how those that have been dancing for six hours daily over the last few days feel. Finally we move toward the exit and do several loops as the long line of dancers files off the dance ground. Overall it was a fantastic event and I feel very lucky to have witnessed it. g

March 2015 / InDepth

22 BUSINESS

Socially Conscious Coffee Beans Yuko Maskay talks to the Ngwe Tun, winner of KBZ Entrepreneurial Achievement Award at Myanmore Awards 2015, about his passion for coffee, and how everybody can benefit by best practice in all stages of its production.

gwe Tun is a coffee guy. During trips away from his hometown of Yangon, he would savour the aroma and taste of a fresh, brewed cup of coffee, wishing he could enjoy the same quality back home. He didn’t know anything about coffee farming, but he was an entrepreneur at heart with a background in IT. He researched extensively on the Internet on how to harvest and roast coffee. Two years ago, he bought 20 acres of land in Ywar Ngan township in the Taunggyi District of Southern Shan State, a one-day drive from Yangon, and started cultivating coffee. ‘Once we were happy with the results, we decided to open a café,’ says Ngwe Tun. Genius Coffee is Ngwe Tun’s tenacity and hard work come alive. Located in the heart of downtown, not far

from Sule Shangri-la Hotel, this small coffee shop is fast receiving recognition for not only its quality, but also its commitment to community and environment. Capitalising on Shan highland’s high altitude, where its cool temperature and climate are conducive for harvesting coffee, Ngwe Tun takes pride in the quality of his coffee, where the difference is in the aftertaste.

of the water. Moisture content needs to be measured periodically to prevent too much moisture, which will create mold, and overdrying will cause the coffee beans to lose taste and flavour. Chemical fertilisers are not used and they handpick all their berries. If any of this process goes awry, there will be a problem in the roasting process.

‘We only use Arabica coffee, which will be bitter and sour in the beginning, then sweet. The content of coffee is low, but the taste and aroma are very nice,’ says Ngwe Tun, claiming that this mild coffee can be enjoyed anytime of the day, even before going to sleep.

Last year, his diligence paid off with a passing quality standard grade of 81/100 from the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) that certifies them as a 'specialty' coffee, remarkable in a country where most local coffee beans don’t meet international standards at all.

He says that meticulous detail goes into making and processing of the coffee. From picking only ripened cherries (coffee seed) so the aftertaste is not sour, to using a purification system to maintain the PH balance

Ngwe Tun admits the biggest challenge is maintaining the standards but he trains the farmers regularly so that they understand the guidelines for quality coffee processing, including personal hygiene and the im-

March 2015 / InDepth

BUSINESS 23

portance of growing coffee the correct way. His dream is that in two to three years, they will be the first fair-trade certified coffee in Myammar. ‘I think it’s not too difficult. We can do it, he says. He understands that it’s not only important to train the farmers, but to take care of their personal livelihood by providing for their families. Eighty percent of the people in the region are farmers and are self-sufficient, but Ngwe Tun says that they lack education, healthcare and access to information and technology. To fix this gap, Genius Coffee gives 10% of the profits to the development of the Danu hill tribe by contributing to their education, healthcare and youth empowerment. ‘Our philosophy is that since we are doing business in the area where the Danu hill tribe live, we should contribute income in that area,’ says Ngwe Tun. The process hasn’t come without a challenge. Ngwe Tun started out by hand-roasting coffee in his home, with the help of his wife who does the logos and design. ‘We started with a small batch of the coffee with a small roaster from Korea, then got feedback from family and friends. We didn’t have a proper grinder,’ he recalls. With a recent purchase of two grinders from Italy and a local company, they can now roast a bigger batch of very fine-ground coffee. Along with quality, Ngwe Tun faces another challenge of many coffee shops and cafes popping up in Yangon, He knows that there is fierce competition, but he is not worried, citing that unlike other businesses where coffee is imported, theirs is locally produced and roasted, so they can keep their prices low. ‘We are not trying to make big business or be rich. Maybe coffee and labour prices will get higher, but we buy directly from the farmer and profit goes directly to them,’ says Ngwe Tun. More than profit though, Ngwe Tun says that what’s important is that he practices ethical business with concern for the environment. He sees it as a reciprocal process where the coffee needs the shades of the trees to increase its lifespan, and so not cutting down trees helps his business, which in turn helps the environment. He also uses recycled packaging to sell his coffee beans at the stores, and gives a 10% discount on purchase to customers who bring their own bags to buy their roasted coffee. Reiterating that transparency is an important part of his business, starting last December, Ngwe Tun introduced a 3-day coffee tour at his plantation allowing guests to visit coffee farms, pick the coffee, and help process them at the factory. 'We decided to start this so that our customers can trust our coffee process and also learn about what it takes to make quality coffee', he says. Ngwe Tun hopes that more companies, both local and foreign, will use ethical business practices that empower the community, allowing them to become independent and self-sustainable. ‘Life is very short, as you know, and if we were alone and working just for money, that will be very, very lonely and meaningless. If we help other people, there will be something coming in return,’ he says. g

• Private offices • Meeting rooms • Short-term leases • Hot desks • Fast Internet T: +95 1 441 3414 E: 608merchant@hinthabusinesscentres.com w: www.hinthabusinesscentres.com

March 2015 / InDepth

24 CHEF’S PROFILE

COOKING FROM THE HEART by Aimee Lawrence

From roasting camels for thousands of hungry guests, to honing his skills in five star hotels throughout Dubai, topped off with becoming an Ambassador for World Chef’s Without Borders, at 33 years old Thurein Htun has lived a colourful life in the culinary world. Back in his native city of Yangon, he hopes to nurture a budding community of local chefs through sharing his passion for cooking and valuable experiences of working abroad.

t 18-years-old Thurein Htun’s uncle offered up to him three career choices - computing, cooking, or learning English. He chose the kitchen. With his uncle’s financial support, Thurein Htun turned his hobby into a passion as he embarked on a three-month training course at Kandawgyi Palace Hotel. ‘Interestingly, I actually had aspirations of becoming a lawyer,’ he recalls. ‘My uncle came to me with his offer whilst I was in my year’s gap between high school and university which is compulsory in Myanmar.’

A career in cooking for the teenage Thurein Htun was an opportunity to do what he enjoyed, but most importantly it laid out an avenue for him to explore his dreams of travelling abroad. At Kandawgyi Palace Hotel, where he was immersed in the foreign world of French cuisine, he met teachers U Khin Maung Lat and U Myat Min – men he continues to credit for being his main inspirations. ‘U Khin Maung Lat and U Myat Min inspired me in different ways but both drove my passion for cooking and travel. Without them I may have still returned

to study law. U Khin Maung Lat was my mentor; he showed me the importance of having a positive, professional, no-nonsense attitude in the kitchen. The chef is the commander. Whereas, U Myat Min, who became more like a confident, wowed me with his English accent which was nearly perfect for not being a native English speaker. And then I knew I must travel.’ Some 5,000 miles is what separated a young man from Yangon’s Ahlon Township from his dream destination, Europe.

March 2015 / InDepth

CHEF’S PROFILE 25

He hopes to refine the art of staff management and has his appetite set on becoming an Executive Chef – a position in which he can share his experiences and pass on the importance of a having good attitude with talented junior chefs who share his passion.

While he did not venture to the likes of Spain or Italy, great success abroad soon called, when in 2008 he landed nearly 3,000 miles away in Dubai where he would spend the next five and a half years. Fiercely independent and focused on success, Thurein Htun immersed himself in this alien world of new systems and foreign languages. Rapidly progressing through the ranks of Dubai’s glittering five-star hotels from commis 3 at the One & Only Royal Mirage to Chef de Partie at the Westin Dubai Mina Seyahi Beach Resort, more than satisfied his teenage ambition. Career highs in Dubai include being awarded a certificate for excellence by former Argentinean footballer Hugo Maradona - brother of legendary player Diego Maradona, and being part of the team that landed Westin Beach Resort the Timeout platinum prize for Best Brunch in 2013. It was at Westin’s legendary Bubbalicious Friday brunch feasts that Thurein Htun was introduced to the craft behind tenderising and roasting camels – two or three of which were served to up to 12,000 guests in one brunch sitting. An experience not all chefs can lay claim to. ‘I’m glad I followed my head and my heart all those years ago. My time in Dubai was incredibly valuable. Aside from the accolades, my English improved, I worked with some of the best in the business, cooked for thousands in one sitting, mastered hundreds of delicious dishes from across the globe and became fully trained in the highest level of sanitation and hygiene standards – skills I can take anywhere.’ Although, undoubtedly it was one of the best periods in his adult life, he couldn’t shake off the persistent

homesickness. And love was what eventually brought Thurein Htun back to his native Yangon with a fiancé in waiting – a fiancée who has now become his wife. Home in Yangon, and laden with a barrel full of culinary skills, management practices and industry knowledge, Thurein Htun became inspired to share his experiences with his local community – with a particular focus on the young and disadvantaged. He can currently be found juggling his professional duties as Chef De Cuisine for Le Bistrot of the luxurious Savoy Hotel. with his community outreach work as an Ambassador for World Chefs Without Borders (WCWB) – the aid and charity arm of World Chefs. Becoming an Ambassador for WCWB in 2014 has given him the opportunity to concentrate on helping his local community. In February, with a team including Norwegian Michelin Star Chef Markus P Dybwad, Myanmar TV Chef Kyaw Kyaw and many other key industry figures, he visited the Hnit Aung San correction centre in Kawmu, which is home to 450 boys who were orphaned in the aftermath of Cyclone Nargis. ‘It was important for us to teach the boys something they could use themselves one day. Yes. we plated up delicious four course meals that they loved, but we also got them involved in helping with preparations and showed them the cooking process from scratch. We hope that this fun, practical approach has inspired them to become chefs themselves one day. The restaurant industry in Yangon is booming so there are many opportunities for them to go on to lead prosperous and independent lives despite their current hardship.’

tee member of Myanmar Culinary Arts Competition (MCAC). His charitable nature has also seen him involved in working with the Girls Pastry Vocational Training Center for over 100 street kids. With this capacity building initiative it is also hoped that by giving these disadvantaged girls training and working experience, they will be valuable to Myanmar’s fast growing hospitality industry. Selfless acts for others aside, Thurein Htun remains on top of his game when it comes to culinary excellence and is a strong team player. In a pool of 218 chefs, his team brought home the Bronze medal in 2014’s ThaiFex Me Khong River Challenge – the biggest culinary competition in Southeast Asia. From being a boy of ten years old, standing in the kitchen of his childhood home in Ahlon frying up an egg curry for him and his father whilst his mother and sister were away, Thurein has certainly come a long way. He hopes to refine the art of staff management and has his appetite set on becoming an Executive Chef – a position in which he can share his experiences and pass on the importance of a having good attitude with talented junior chefs who share his passion. There is no doubt that Thurein Htun’s passion for cooking will drive him to win more professional accolades. His passion, combined with his innate warmth, will see him continue on his path of working with charities, not only changing the lives of individuals but also that of the greater community at a time when the world is watching. g

Not only is Thurein Htun an Ambassador for WCWB, he is also a Co-Founder of the Young Myanmar Chefs Association (YMCA) and an organising commit-

26 FOOD REVIEWS

March 2015 / InDepth

ki. Tteokbokki is a popular and comforting snack of soft and chewy rice cakes with fish cakes, sausage, and a boiled egg dressed in gochujang chili sauce that gives it heat and sweetness all in one. We continued with Australian-raised rib-eye steaks on the BBQ. As expected, the beef was flavorful and very tender. We chose to eat ours as a ssam, wrapping the meat with short grain rice, ssamjang paste, and any of the accompanying BBQ vegetables in lettuce leaves.

BULGOGI BROTHERS

COMPLETE & COMFORTING BY MIMI WU WHAT IT IS Bulgogi Brothers is a casual dining restaurant that specialises in traditional Korean cuisine and marinated barbecued meat. It has the most complete Korean menu in Yangon I have experienced. ATMOSPHERE The restaurant has two floors of booths, tables, and private rooms in a comfortably air conditioned building. Each table has an induction heating plate for your BBQ order. Service was quick for all tables, and

a server unobtrusively cooks your BBQ order. RECOMMENDATION Like any Korean meal, the restaurant starts with shrimp crackers and a variety of banchan, small side dishes. For a table of two, we were served five banchan: Napa cabbage kimchi, braised lotus root, szucchini, pickled radish, and my favorite radish salad. Banchan are constantly replenished until the end of the meal. Korean food has a heat that hits the back of the mouth and lingers, and we ordered the crisp and light Korean-brewed Cass and Hite beers to pair with tteokbok-

THE TAJ

NAAN BETTER BY MIMI WU WHAT IT IS The Taj recently opened its authentic Northern Indian fine dining restaurant at Aung San Stadium. Hugely attractive has been its halal-only dishes and alcohol-free zone. Together with their thick and creamy gravies typical of Northern Indian cuisine, the restaurant has been busy. There are two menus: a good-sized fine dining menu and an express menu for those accustomed to readyon-order service from local canteens. Every item on the express menu also appears on the fine dining list. ATMOSPHERE The two-storey restaurant is minimally decorated, and a faint sound of Indian music could be heard over the noisy Wednesday night crowd. What awed me was the service, which was a notch up from most establishments. Taking orders using a touchpad

eliminated any confusion with the kitchen and cashier, and we were even asked if our samosas should be served as a starter or with the mains. Our food came out quickly and most importantly, the mains came out all at once. RECOMMENDATION From first taste, it’s obvious that The Taj serves high quality food. The restaurant makes its own yogurts and cheeses and pounds spices daily for freshness. It’s also incredibly rich with ghee; steady does it. Whet your appetite with warm, sweet lassi scented with cardamom and three large, freshly fried samosas that come piping hot, packed, and well spiced. As for mains, well, we all have our favorite Indian dishes, but you won’t be disappointed with this

One of my go-to Korean dishes is spicy seafood tofu stew (soondoobu jjigae), and Bulgolgi Brothers served their silken tofu with octopus, shrimp, and clam. The jjigae was thinner than I typically have it, but the flavor of seafood stock was definitely there. The best deal of the night was their eight-piece fried chicken bowl and Myanmar beer combo for 7,500 Ks, and there were more than enough piping hot, juicy, crunchy chicken pieces to share. FINAL THOUGHTS Growing up with lots of Korean friends and constantly indulging in their cuisine, I was really pleased with Bulgolgi Brother’s BBQ, banchan, and tteokbokki. The taste was spot on, and the Australian rib-eye was the best I’ve had in Yangon. If you’re looking for traditional tasty Korean food in a comfortable setting, head over to Bulgolgi Brothers. Most unexpected part? I didn’t come out exuding Eau de Korean BBQ as I normally would. G-136 Ground floor, Building D, SOHO Diamond Tower, Nar Nat Taw St., Kamayut Tsp Tel: 098640077, 0973038899, 09796307127 Daily, 10:30 AM – 10:30 PM spread: mutton tikka, palik panir, butter chicken, and garlic naan. The butter chicken with its hint of nutmeg flavor was more complex and textured than our mellowed cousin in the US, owing to freshly pounded spices. It was my favorite of the evening. Though the salt was heavy-handed, the tender mutton tikka also impressed. Finally, the palik panir, which I’ve had difficulty finding in Yangon, paired creamy spinach with homemade cheese. It had a perceptible buttery taste that was best cut through with naan and their table relish. End your meal with hot kheer rice pudding or soft and moist gulab jamun. FINAL THOUGHTS There’s something to be said if The Taj, which can seat up to 70 patrons, turned diners away over the weekend because seats were fully occupied. Even at 8 PM on a Wednesday night, my table had already turned over twice. All together, it was a wonderfully flavourful feast for a reasonable price. Book in advance to try fresh and authentic Northern Indian fare for yourself. B-9, Aung San Stadium, North Stand, Upper Pansodan Road, Mingalar Taung Nyunt Tsp Tel: 097 662 518, 0925 2451 353 Opens daily 11-2:30, 6:00-10:30 PM

March 2015 / InDepth

28 HEALTH

Guts of Steel Weak stomach, gas, or worse? Toughen up your guts with a big bowl of bacteria. Bon appétit!

by Mimi Wu

slightly cold chicken leg, old seafood, dirty fingers all over your tableware? We’ve all been here at some point, and what happens next isn’t polite for this publication, but let’s just say there are massive explosions. These are expected consequences after a questionable meal, but too many of us also live with unceasing gastrointestinal discomfort, bloating, and excess gas. For many of us, being ‘regular’ is rarely a regular occurrence anymore.

Teeming inside your intestines are 100 trillion microorganisms called intestinal microflora. Most microflora are bacteria, and they effectively decide how our bodies look, feel, and act. Though often vilified – because bacteria do cause illness – many of our gut bacteria are necessary to maintain a healthy immune system.

I’m sure we all only drink bottled water, only eat well-cooked and hot food, and always wash our hands before eating. Yet, despite our best efforts, stomach troubles still loom ahead. Is there any way to bulletproof our guts?

The good bacteria in our intestines are called probiotics, and the normal human digestive tract contains about 400 types of probiotic bacteria. When microflora are in balance, probiotics make it difficult for bad bacteria to survive in our bodies. They not only form a protective barrier along the intestinal wall to prevent bad bugs from crossing into our blood stream, probiotics also suppress unfriendly bacteria and fungi growth, some of which may lead to cancer. They also help digest food, regulate the gut, and produce vitamins.

Microflora in Full Bloom Over 70% of the body’s immune system (the bit that keeps us healthy) is connected to the digestive tract, so a properly functioning digestive system is the difference between feeling good and feeling rundown.

Bad bugs feed on excess sugar, animal fat and protein, and processed foods. When harmful bacteria are in abundance – microflora thus out of whack – they not only cause cramping, flatulence, and diarrhea, but also inflammation that can manifest as allergies and acne.

The A, B, Cs of Probiotics The composition of microflora depends on many factors, and science is starting to find that we can intentionally improve our microflora balance by regularly consuming adequate amounts of certain probiotics, specifically strains of Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium. Their health benefits, and ability to not only withstand but also multiply in gastric acid and bile, make them star players in our diet and are commonly referred to as ‘A, B, C probiotic cultures’. • Lactobacillus acidophilus: A well-studied probiotic that helps reduce symptoms of diarrhea and lactose intolerance, commonly found as live cultures in yogurt • Lactobacillus casei: Present in the mouth and intestines, it may help balance the immune system and inhibit pathogens from becoming active. It is found in fermented vegetables, meat, and milk. • Bifidobacterium bifidum: It helps prevent pathogens from passing through the intestinal wall into your blood stream and is found in some dairy products.

March 2015 / InDepth

• Bifidobacterium longum: Also added in dairy products, B. longum exists in the colon to support the immune system, has antioxidative properties, suppresses tumor volume and incidence, and can shorten the duration and minimise symptoms of the common cold. • Bifidobacterium animalis: A well-studied probiotic that acts like lactobacillus acidophilus and also strengthens the immune system. An L. Acidophilus a Day Keeps the Doctor Away There is a growing body of evidence that probiotics are effective in treating antibiotic associated diarrhea. When you’re sick, antibiotics indiscriminately kill off all bacteria – both the bad, causing the illness, and the good probiotics. Wiping out good bacteria causes a microflora imbalance and the digestive complications associated with it. Continuously taking probiotics can replenish what was lost and alleviate bloating, diarrhea, and abdominal pain. When sick, probiotics can also decrease the duration of gastroenteritis and frequency of stools. Studies are also finding that regularly consuming probiotics helps our bodies maintain healthy immune systems, protect against infectious diarrhea and stomach ulcers, and reduce allergies. Cambridge University found that regular consumption of fermented, lowfat dairy foods may also reduce the risk of developing type 2 diabetes by 25% over 11 years. Please, Sir, I Want Some More Probiotics are abundant in fermented foods, which

HEALTH 29 we can easily find or make ourselves in Yangon. Fermented foods may sound off-putting, but humans have long been using fermentation to preserve food, and they are incredibly delicious. Yogurt, cured meats like salami, miso paste, aged cheeses, fish sauce, and traditionally-made sourdough bread are all examples of fermented foods. Fermentation occurs when probiotics, and yeast naturally found on the surface of food, begin pre-digesting that food. This breaks down the food’s sugars to help our bodies more easily absorb the food’s nutrients. A by-product of food fermentation is lactic acid, which naturally preserves food and stimulates the growth of even more probiotics. Vegetables and fruit undergo the lacto fermentation process to yield kimchi, chutneys, cured olives, and many items you probably consider ‘pickled’. The key difference between pickling and fermenting is that pickling uses vinegar in the process, while fermentation merely uses salt and water. That difference alone makes fermentation effortless for a home cook. Lacto-fermented vegetables are commonly served alongside Myanmar dishes as a spritely condiment that is easier to digest than a vegetable’s raw form. Probiotics must be live and active when consumed to confer any benefit to our digestive tracts. Sorry, wine and (most) beer won’t make the cut! Neither will all yogurts, so check the label. In Yangon, you can rely on Black Swan (which have all A, B, C cultures), Bulla, Emmi, Myanmar’s TM Dairy Farm yogurt, Dutch

Mill Delight’s fermented drinking milk (similar to Yakult), and Sharky’s yogurts, to contain live bacteria. All of us have experienced gastrointestinal discomfort, particularly with so much oil in Burmese food and varying hygiene standards at outdoor vendors. Don’t let that slow your roll: toughen up your stomach easily with a cup of yogurt everyday. Remember, fireworks are for external use only, do not set off in bathrooms! Experiencing gastrointestinal discomfort? Get well with these home remedies: • Coconut water has lots of electrolytes to replenish the nutrients and minerals flushed down the toilet. • If you can’t chew ginger and mint leaves straight, turn them into tea to combat indigestion, gas, bloating, and stomach cramps. • Warm lemon water, chamomile, and apple cider vinegar tea also help with indigestion and inflammation. • Avoid sugar, caffeine, and dairy except yogurt, which produces lactic acid in your intestines that kill off bad bacteria. • When you’re ready to eat, introduce gentler foods into your stomach, such as bone broth, rice, bananas, and skinless white-meat chicken. If your GI issues are frequent or unrelenting, visit a doctor. You may have a serious case of gastroenteritis that requires antibiotics. Then remember to add back probiotics that the antibiotics killed off. g

March 2015 / InDepth

30 HOROSCOPE

Myanmar

Horoscope Tetkatho Soe Moe Naing has a Science Degree Major in Mathematics from Yangon University. Currently, he is writing articles and horoscopes for monthly magazines and weekly journals in Myanmar. Astrologer, philosopher, traditional medicine practitioner and author Tetkatho Soe Moe Naing looks to the celestial bodies to predict what lies ahead in arch, this month focusing on love and business. In Myanmar astrology, star signs are determined by which day you were born. Each sign represents its own day, cardinal direction (utmost importance), planet (celestial body) and animal.

SUNDAY

Pleasure Time You will have a fairly easy passage through the month. There will be a good deal of activity in your family circle and environment, but it should be pleasurable activity as a whole. Some good fortune for the whole family group is likely towards the end of month. Love – You will have delay in marriage, disappointment in love affairs, and a duality in your affections. Business – Financially, it should be fortunate time, though you will probably be spending as much as you get. Lucky number – 2.4.7 Lucky colour – Brown

MONDAY

Active Time You are very active, both physically and mentally. You will make short trips. This month is good for intellect; you like books, scientific and literacy subjects. Love – You will make friends easily and will be attracted to refined and harmonious people and circumstances. Partnership in love and business or marriage will occur during this month.

Business – Be quite sure that you know your own mind before you make a business decision; if you must make them, do so between the 6th and 21st. You like being busy and almost never lose your ambitious streak. Lucky number – 3.6.9 Lucky colour – White

TUESDAY

Speculative time You are usually fortunate in speculation affairs. Family responsibilities may be somewhat tiresome though, particularly during the early part of the month. You love liberty, freedom and independence. Love – Your innate pride makes you rather prone to love affairs; in fact you probably enjoy great popularity with the opposite sex because of your susceptibility and sincerity in love. Business – Financially, there seems little to worry about. There is a chance of gains through new investments, but don’t waste money in speculation this months. Lucky number -1.4.7 Lucky colour – Maroon

WEDNESDAY

Concentrate Time It is useless now worrying about the past. Instead, concentrate on getting fresh undertakings under way as quickly as possible. If documents have to be signed or contracts drawn out, it would be wise to concentrate on these details in the last fortnight of the month. You make numerous trips during this month. Love – If married, some attempt to conciliate your marriage partner and establish harmonious conditions at home and with partner would be worth earlier in the month. A gesture made before the 15th would avert a good deal of trouble later. Business – You are probably quite fortunate in partnership transactions and associations, with progress in practical organisations that encourage innovation and invention, at which you are clever. Lucky number – 4.7.0 Lucky colour – Deep golden

THURSDAY

Patient Time In personal controversies, do your best to keep your poise and balance. However annoying your closet associates and relatives may be, don’t retaliate. Storms will blow over if you are patient enough and towards the end of the month you strike a very happy period indeed. Love – If unmarried and planning engagement, go ahead. You will have to face formidable opposition, but it will be worthwhile making an attempt to get your own way before the 21st. Business – Meanwhile, business and personal associations are likely to be rather troubled. In the first ten days of the month disputes that have been developing during this month are likely to flare up. Later it should be possible to arrive at a peaceful solution of most of your problems, but a great deal of patience will be necessary. Lucky number – 3.6.0 Lucky colour – Dark, Red

FRIDAY

Thoughtful Time You are pioneering, headstrong and impulsive. Full of ambition, you love new ideas and enterprises. You have tremendous enthusiasm, persistence and willpower, but need to exercise discretion. You have tremendous enthusiasm and persistence, but need to exercise discretion in personal dealings. Love – You tend to be ambiguous in your affections, loving two or more members of the opposite sex at the same time. Business – Chances are you make your money form more than one job or occupation, or that you change job frequently. Lucky number – 5.8.9 Lucky colour – Orange

SATURDAY

Sensible Time You are an excellent conversationalist and have a broad (but often superficial) knowledge of many different subjects. You love luxury, and delight in pleasures of a sensational nature. Love – In affairs of the heart you are very careful of appearance or how things might affect your social status or honour. Business – You may have new duties and you’ll carry out them well. You will benefit from buying and selling machine and instruments. Lucy number – 1.4.9 Lucky colour – Green Tetkatho Soe Moe Naing has practiced astrology and Burmese traditional medicine for 40 years.

Organisations in Partnership with the MYANMORE Card:

MYANMORE CARD

DEALS

00000001

RESTAURANT -

50TH STREET BAR

20% off on total bill between 11am to 3pm every day. You will also get 10% off on main course for dinner servings. 1 person per card

999 SHAN NOODLE HOUSE

Enjoy 10% off on total bill (1 person per card)and get one dish of Myanmar salad or seasonal fruit for 4 people and above.

CHATRIUM HOTEL @ KOHAKU JAPANESE RESTAURANT

15% off on A La Carte menu at Chatrium Hotel’s Japanese Restaurant Minimum 2 people Mon to Thu Booking required

CHATRIUM @ LOBBY LOUNGE

20% off on Hi Tea Special from 3pm to 5pm at Chatrium Lobby lounge. Mon to Sun 4 people per card.

CHATRIUM HOTEL @ THE EMPORIA RESTAURANT

15% off on international buffet dinner at The Emporia Restaurant in Chatrium Hotel. Advance booking required Mon to Sun 4 persons per card

CHATRIUM HOTEL @ TIGER HILL CHINESE RESTAURANT

15% off on Dim Sun Lunch at Chatrium Hotel’s Tiger Hill Chinese Restaurant Minimum order 2 person Applicable everyday Advance booking required 4 persons per card

EDO ZUSHI JAPANESE RESTAURANT

Enjoy 20% off on total bill between 11 a.m to 5 p.m every day everyday. You can also enjoy 5% off on dinner serving daily.

ELIQ RESTAURANT

10% discount on total bill daily Cannot be used with other promotions Unlimited number of people Advanced booking required

ESCAPE GASTRO BAR

Enjoy 40% off on total food bill between 11a.m and 6 p.m during the whole week. This offer can be used together with the two-for-one beer offer on Sundays. 1 person per card

GEKKO

Enjoy 20% off during lunch period from 11 a.m to 4 p.m daily 6 people per card

GINZA TEPPAN-YAKI @ OCEAN SHWE GONE DINE

Enjoy 20% off on total bill from Monday to Friday from 9 a.m to 5 p.m 1 person per card

GOLDEN KITCHEN TORI

Enjoy 2 for 1 drinks from 6 p.m to 8 p.m, every daily. 1 person per card

HOUSE OF SINGAPURA

Enjoy 10% off on total bill from Monday to Friday for dinner 5 p.m onwards and 20% off on food bill on Saturday and Sunday, all day. 1 person per card

KOKINE BAR & RESTAURANT

1 free cocktail or long drink from the menu when you order one European main dish ordered at this bright restaurant and bar with outdoor seating by the pool. Applicable everyday. 1 person per card

L’ALCHIMISTE FRENCH RESTAURANT Enjoy discounts every day at this French dining restaurant which is located at the bank of Inya lake. It’s a great place to eat and celebrate birthday party and dinner party. Mon, Tue: 25% off Wed, Thu: 15% off Fri to Sun: 10% off *All discounts on total bill 4 persons per card

LA MAISON 20

Enjoy 20% off on total bill daily. This deal is valid for the cardholder and up to 8 pax only.

L’OPERA ITALIAN RESTAURANT AND BAR

Enjoy 10% discount on the A La Carte bill (not valid for set menu, business lunch and promotions), valid only for cash payment. Maximum of 8 pax Valid on Sunday, for lunch or dinner

MONSOON RESTAURANT AND BAR YANGON

Enjoy multiple discounts at this southeast asian restaurant located in a colonial building. Food & drink: Total Bill 10% off (Mon to Fri: 10 a.m to 5 p.m) Afternoon Tea Set: 9,000ks ++ , 15% off, 2pm to 5 pm, 4 pax Cooking Class: 50,000ks/person, 15% off, 2 days advance booking (everyday except Tuesday)

PADONMAR RESTAURANT

Free glass of wine or beer with lunch or dinner. Must order a minimum of two main dishes per person. Not valid on Set Menu. Valid everyday. Two persons per card.

PEPERONI PIZZERIA

10% off on total bill daily. 1 person per card

SEDONA @BRASSERIE

Enjoy 15% off daily excluding festive promotion. Only valid for cardholder.

SEDONA HOTEL@ DUFU CHINESE RESTAURANT Enjoy 15% off daily excluding festive promotion. Only valid for cardholder.

SEDONA HOTEL@ORZO ITALIAN RESTAURANT

SUMMIT PARKVIEW HOTEL @ DAGON LOUNGE

SUMMIT PARKVIEW HOTEL@ PARKVIEW CAFE

Enjoy 5% discount on Food and Beverage @ Parkview Cafe’. Not including outside catering. Not valid for promotions and set lunch/ dinner. No discount for cakes. Applicable on Weekdays and public holidays only 1 person per card

THE PIZZA COMPANY

Weekday – 20% off on Pasta Weekend – 20% Off on Large Pizza 1 person per card

TITUS INDIAN BANANA LEAF

Enjoy a free dessert upon presentation of the card. Choose among desserts like Gulab Jamun, Kulfi and Halwa. 1 card per person per day.

TOBA RESTAURANT & CAFE

Night Birds Promotion!!! 30% discount on normal menu price of total bill Offer is valid from 12 a.m to 5 a.m Monday to Thursday Only! Max 3 persons

UNION BAR AND GRILL

Get 20% off lunch time, 11am to 4pm, at Union Bar & Grill, a popular and relaxed spot in downtown.

CHATRIUM HOTEL @ CLUB RIZZOLI

20% off on total bill from 10pm onwards in the bar of Chatrium Hotel. Saturday and Sunday only. Up to six people per card.

MOJO BAR

Enjoy 2 for 1 drinks from 2 p.m to 7 p.m, every day and 2 for 1 on all food items on Sunday, all day. 1 person per card

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

10% off on all drinks (beer and cocktails) daily at this Café/Bar in downtown Yangon, created for independent travelers to meet and exchange updated information on traveling in Myanmar One person per card.

SEDONA HOTEL @ ICE BAR

Enjoy 15% off daily excluding cover charge and festive promotion.

BARISTA LAVAZZA

10% off of total bill at the exclusive seller of Lavazza brand coffee in Myanmar. Available every day. 1 person per card

D BISTRO

10% off on all food and beverages on weekdays and weekends. 15% off on all types of coffee before noon on weekdays 1 card per person

SKY BISTRO (Run by EXE Corporation)

5 % off on total bill from 7 p.m onwards daily

FROZEE

Monday - Friday (Opening Till 6 pm) Buy 1 Get 1 Free (80g gelato cup/160g gelato cup) 1 person per card

For each purchase of a watch you get a Food voucher worth 20,000 ks to be used at House of Singapura, Peperoni and Ya Kun Cafe.

CALIFORNIA SKIN SPA

Enjoy 20% off on any treatment and services. Max 3 persons per card.

VESTIGE MERCANTILE & RELICS

Get 10% discount on total bill. Discounts can only be claimed at: Vestige Flagship Store, Yangon, Nay Pyi Taw, Vestige Kiosk, Avenue 64 Hotel.

SPA D’LAX

10% discount for 1 person and 15% discount for 2 person visit (at least 1 card holder) on Weekdays happy hours ( 11 a.m - 3 p.m on Monday through Thursday) For Weekends: Friday to Sunday – 5% discount for 1 person and 10% discount for 2 person visit Advance Booking required.

D SPA

ACTIVITY

INYA DAY SPA

PHOENIX ESTHETIC BEAUTY CETRE

10% Discount for one person. 20% Discount for two persons for facial treatment only. Wednesday and Thursday from 10: 30 a.m to 6: 30 p.m Advance booking required. 2 person per card.

SENSE SPA

20% discount for all available spa services Mondays - Sundays Advance Booking Required : Advanced booking preferred 1 person per card

THAYA DAY SPA

15% off SPA SERVICES or 10% off THAI FULL BODY MASSAGE. Mon – Fri, 1 person / card

15 minutes Private Free Lesson and, 1 hour Group beginners Free lesson with Ian or Jimuel Regular prices are 250,000 Ks/ 10 prive hours and 100,000 ks/15 group beginner hous Monday through Saturday (Sunday is closed) Advance booking required. 1 person per card

10% discount for 1 person and 15% discount for 2 persons visit – for weekends (Friday/Saturday/Sunday) Weekdays happy hours (from 11 a.m to 3 p.m on Monday through Thursday) 15% discount for 1 person and 20% discount for 2 persons visit (at least 1 MYANMORE card or affiliated card holder) Advance Booking required.

15% off SPA SERVICES or 10% off THAI FULL BODY MASSAGE. Mon – Fri.1 person / card

HOLA Dance Club

HOTEL BUSINESS ALLIANCE HOTEL

15% off on any room type. It is strategically located in the heart of Yangon City and, is the ideal place for your business and leisure needs. Applicable to everyday. 1 person per card

HOTEL ESPERADO

International buffet @ Goya Restaurant 9th to 22nd March 2015 6:30pm - 10:30pm Price: US$22++per person Complimentary signature “Esperado Venus” Mocktail to MYANMORE card holders. RSVP: 01 8619486~9 ext 7

ORCHID HOTEL

15% off on all published room rates Applicable from Sunday to Thursday Advance booking required One person per card

THAHARA

A. 5% off on the published rates (www. thahara.com) for all package booking in high season ( Oct to April) B. 10% off on the published rates (www. thahara.com) for all package booking in Green season (May to September) The deals are valid all year round. Advance booking required. Valid for 2 persons per card.

SERVICES

BALANCE FITNESS

15% discount for: 6 months or a one year membership contract Monthly package for classes of $120 for 10 classes Discount apply to Silver, Gold or Platinum membership Discount cannot be added with other promotions. 2 people per card

HINTHA BUSINESS CENTRES

One hour free wifi + a cup of coffee once a month per card daily. 1 person per card

K & H TRAVELS CO.,LTD

Buy one, get 10$ off by the second guest on any mini getaway tour on weekends. Advance booking to be done on weekdays.

HEALTH CLUB @ CHATRIUM HOTEL 10% off on daily rate/Mon – Sun

BUY YOUR MYANMORE CARD HERE!

SHOPPING -

NERVIN CAFE AND BISTRO

15% off total bill at this pioneering Cafe & Bistro Chain with outlet at Kandawgyi Lake. From Monday to Friday Valid for all the people from the same table.

SEVEN FRIDAY SWISS WATCHES

GYM

EASY CAFE & RESTAURANT

10% off on total bill with a minimum spending of 6,000 Kyats in a single receipt. Only applicable from 5 pm onwards daily. 6 people per card

SWENSEN’S

Weekday - 20% OFF on Super Sundae Weekend – 20% Off on Kids Sundae 1 person per card

SPA

DESSERT

THAI 47

Enjoy 30% Off total bill (Mon to Thu) Enjoy 15% Off total bill (Fri,Sat & Sun)

Enjoy Free serving of “Garlic Herb Mus sels” with minimum spending of 50,000 Kyats. Maximum party size of 4. Not valid on Saturdays, Sundays, and Public Holidays. Valid from Monday to Friday

CAFE

Enjoy 15% off in all outlets excluding festive promotion. Only valid for cardholder.

Enjoy 5% discount on Food and Beverage @ Dagon Lounge. Not including outside catering. Not valid for promotions and set lunch/ dinner. No discount for cakes. Applicable on Weekdays and public holidays only 1 person per card

THE MANHATTAN FISH MARKET

BAR & CLUB

SEDONA HOTEL @LOBBY LOUNGE

Enjoy 15% off daily excluding festive promotion. Only valid for cardholder.

Enjoy 2 for 1 drinks from 7pm onwards Note: Advanced booking require on Fri,Sat & Sun

DAILY MART

1) Free Delivery for Purchase of 10,000 Kyats to 29,900 Kyats daily for MYANMORE Card Holders 2) 5% off for Purchase of 30,000 Kyats and above for MYANMORE Card Holders. One person per card!

ELEGANT GEMS JEWELLERY & SOUVENIR at Culture Valley

15% off on selected items. Excluding Pearl, Jade, Loose gems and 18 K Gold

MONUMENT BOOKS

10% discount on any purchased superior to 50,000 ks, Mon – Fri,1 people / card

PATRICK ROBERT THE GALLERY Enjoy 10% discount on any product Monday to Saturday (closed on Sunday) Advance booking required. 1 person per card

MYANMORE Office 1st Floor, Annex Bld, Strand Hotel, 92 Strand Rd, Kyauktada Tsp | 01-375680 50TH STREET BAR 9/13, 50th Street, Botahtaung Township 01-397 060 Balance Fitness (Avenue 64 Hotel) 64 (G), Kyaik Wine Pagoda Road,Yangon 01 656 916 Monument Bookstore 150, Dhamazedi Road, Bahan Township Inya Day Spa 16/2, Inya Rd, Yangon | 01537907 Padonmar Restaurant No.105/107, Kha-Yae-Bin Road, Dagon Township, Yangon Between Pyi Daung Su Yeik Tha (Halpin Road) and Manawhari Road/Ahlone Road. Tel/Fax : +95 1 538895, +95 9 73029973, 73108606 Orchid Hotel 91, Anawrahta Road, Pazundaung Township, Yangon | 01-399930, 01-704740 Happy Footprints No.498, Thein Phyu Road, Mingalar Taung Nyunt Township, Yangon 01 381862