Let's Eat August Issue by Tammy Mendoza

AUGUST 2018

RAINY SEASON COMFORT FOOD

LET'S EAT — August 2018

L E T’ S E AT

SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ Editor

PATRICK DIOKNO Art Director

O N RAINY DAYS AND MOND AY S

GABBY CANTERO

ON T H E COV E R

Photographer

LUCKY LEOPARTE Photographer’s Assiﬆant

LUCIEN DY TIOCO Executive Vice President

hey do get you down. No one is immune. Often, during typhoon season, our city seems to be on the verge on sinking, an automatic Atlantis, an unintentional – and unpretty – Venice. Then, we’re stuck at home or school or the office, the roads impassable, a Grab nowhere to be found, the waters too deep and dirty to cross, and we can’t even walk to the faltering LRT or the overcrowded MRT. In this issue, we offer the balm to the banes of our existence in Metro Manila. Take solace in our favorite places for uncomplicated comfort food that will surely replace stress with a smile. After all, it’s the simplest of dishes-- especially those that bring back warm childhood memories-- that we will always long for on cold stormy days: hot soups and steaming rice and fried chicken and pork chops and pies and cakes. Let’s Eat!

ANNALYN DELGADO Editorial Assiﬆant

Let’s Eat is published by The Philippine Star 202 Roberto Oca St., Port Area, Manila For inquiries, call 5277901 local 132 or email letseat062013@gmail.com Facebook: facebook.com/LetsEatPhilStar Inﬆagram: letseatph

Pineapple and Passion Fruit Meringue Pie from Borough Photo by GABBY CANTERO

LET'S EAT — August 2018

Vino Arsan finds gold in

Indigenous Berries S

By ARGIE C. AGUJA

hining from a pool of 2,299 total entries worldwide, the prestigious WineMaker Magazine bestowed a gold medal to Filipino vintner Arturo “Art” Olarte and his son Joshua of Vino Arsan Enterprises during the 2018 WineMaker International Amateur Wine Competition in San Diego, California, USA last May. The annual competition regularly draws amateur winemakers who stack up the best wines in the world. It continues to be the single largest and most diverse collection of hobby wines assembled under one roof. And in this battle of the best wines, Vino Arsan’s winning entry — red wine made from an artistic mix of lipote and bignay indigenous berries — managed to impress the judges and secure a gold medal in the Berry Fruit category.

HOBBY TURNED PASSION A mechanical engineer by profession in Diesel and Hydro Power Plants, Art began his passion for winemaking in Saudi in 2008 when he experimented making sadiki, a type of homemade liquor. “I like doing something when I’m not doing anything. And of all my hobbies, this is my favorite love, my passion. I also had my share of failures because I lacked the proper knowledge, so I attended several winemaking classes in the US,” he recalls. In 2016, after gaining enough knowledge, confidence and with prodding from family and friends who enjoyed his sample works, the Pinoy vintner decided to join the 2016 WineMaker International Competition in San Diego, California, USA, and won two Silver medals and one Bronze medal out of 2,981 entries. This led them to formally establish Vino Arsan Enterprises — literally meaning “wine” made by ARt and his wife SuSAN.

Award-winning vintner Arthur Olarte (right) and son, Josh (left).

The venture started in their house garage before they moved to their compound in Parañaque. CREATING VALUE FROM LOCAL BERRIES At his project site in Quezon Province, Art found an abundance of lipote and bignay berries in the Sierra Madre and eastern seaboard. These are small round fruits that appear like plump grapes. Noticing the uncanny resemblance of the berries to the grapes used for wine, he immediately thought of using it as a wine ingredient. He also

2018 International Amateur Wine Competition Gold Medal in Berry Fruit category

found the potential of the more common bignay berries. But unlike other winemakers who have their own farms and vineyards, Vino Arsan relies on local sources for the berries. Sensing an opportunity, the father and son duo struck a deal with local farmers who often overlooked the potential of the lipote and bignay trees. Many see these only as a source of firewood since the berries have no commercial value. “We approached farmers and told them that we’ll buy the fruits if they don’t cut the trees. We are hoping that the farmers and our supplier communities see the value in keeping the trees for a sustainable livelihood and as means to fight the effects of global warming and climate change,” adds Joshua. SHARING THE KNOWLEDGE As part of the advocacy of raising awareness on the unique qualities and health benefits of Philippine-made wine, Vino Arsan also conducts winemaking classes, mostly in farms and agribased communities that have an abundance of fruits which can serve as raw materials. Here, participants learn the complete process with hands-on demo afterwards. “Everybody can afford to drink wine. By teaching home-based brewers, we make local wine viable and more readily available for the market — creating livelihood opportunities for the community,” Art shares. When Vino Arsan took home the gold medal, it validated the Filipino skill in winery. Even at this early stage, signs point that local berries and Pinoy talent can captivate the attention of the world. Soon, the country may be known as a source of top-notch, fine wine made from indigenous Philippine berries. It won’t be long now.

LET'S EAT — August 2018

anthony bourdain

WORDS BY SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ

O Captain! My Captain!

y phone almost exploded with texts and alerts at around half past six on the evening of June 8, Friday. I was in the middle of watching that forgettable Han Solo solo movie, and … you know that feeling of dread that comes over you when suddenly, in the space of minutes, your phone starts lighting up and buzzing incessantly? I really feared that it would be bad news, and I was praying, before I mustered the courage to peek at my phone, that it wasn’t anything about my family or friends. It wasn’t. But it could have very well been, as all the messages were the same. Total shock, and sudden grief, from so many people, about the passing of Anthony Bourdain. None of us had ever met him, but he seemed as close to our hearts as that charming curmudgeon of an uncle we only saw during Christmas. That lovable rogue who always took the road less travelled, led by the rhythm of a drumbeat only he could hear. The impassioned, imperfect, inspiring man that we all idolized the most. It’s been over forty days, but I still am amazed at the overwhelming sadness we all felt that day, and how we still feel the loss up to now. It couldn’t have been just his books or his shows. Whether you were a chef or a writer or simply an avid follower, he made us laugh and he made us love. His words, on the page, flowed; but more than that, they resonated, and that’s why we read his books again and again and again. Surely, through No Reservations and Parts Unknown, he encouraged us all to travel, but more than that, he taught us to live, and truly appreciate, and enjoy the journey of life. I can honestly say that this magazine you’re reading, much less the show that it’s now led to, would not be here today if not for Anthony Bourdain. I’d like to say that I am his number one fan, but truth be told, we are all, his number one fans. We shall all miss him dearly, and greatly. Thanks for everything. This one’s for you, Tony.

LET'S EAT — August 2018

Ilonggo

WORDS BY SPANKY HIZON ENRQUEZ

PHOTOS BY GABBY CANTERO

Food

Company Bacolod and Iloilo’s Greateﬆ Hits! 5

LET'S EAT — August 2018

have to admit, I’m wavering. I’m a full-blooded Capampangan, and I’ve always maintained that my home province’s cuisine is tops in the Philippines. But this new Ilonggo restaurant in the BGC is giving me reason to pause, and reconsider. The dishes are simple, down south home cooking, but prepared with such genuine affection, and executed with such absolute skill,

that just the aromas of the Inasal and the Kansi wafting through the Ilonggo Food Company are enough to transport me to Bacolod and Iloilo and beyond. The IFC is a dream that’s come to fruition for two childhood friends. They grew up together in Bacolod, and both happened to go to the same university in Big Bad Metro Manila. Though they went their separate ways after graduating

03 03

from the Ateneo—Rommel Hinlo became a chef and a gentleman farmer, and Kerwin Lo became a successful businessman, they never lost touch. And on the occasions that they’d see each other for a reunion, their conversations inevitably turned to that: their shared wish to open a restaurant that would offer the familiar flavors of home, the cuisine, and culture of the Ilonggos. Kerwin comes from a long line of coffee traders; and when his sister Karen opened a specialty coffee shop, Kuppa, in their hometown in 2006, it began a chain reaction that ultimately gave birth to the Ilonggo Food Company. Kuppa was an overnight success in Bacolod, and the concept was migrated to BGC in 2012. Meanwhile, Rommel had become a full-fledged chef. After college, he enrolled in the California Culinary

LET'S EAT — August 2018

1 Sugarcane Juice 2 Chicharon Rice 3 Evelyn’s Watermelon and Batuan Pork Sinigang 4 Facade 5 Chicken Inasal 6 Kansi 7 Chef Rommel Hinlo 8 Leche Flan 9 Cappuccino and Napoleones

Academy, interned in Italy, and upon coming home, worked in the Hyatt, and has been in the kitchen ever since. So when the opportunity to be a partner with Kerwin and Karen in Kuppa arose, it was a most natural fit. Kuppa quickly became a favorite of the most discriminating and demanding coffee connoisseurs in the BGC. And in 2017, when the space next to it became available, the plans for the Ilonggo Food Company were fast tracked, and finally, in June of 2018, Rommel and Kerwin’s dream restaurant became a reality. It is so worth the wait. First off, the restaurant is gorgeous: high ceilings, homey retro furnishings, a bright and breezy Bacolod vibe – thanks to the designer couple who happen to be surfers too: Buji

LET'S EAT — August 2018

and Nikki Libarnes. The interiors please the eyes, and the menu? Well, it warms the heart and pleasures the stomach. Many of the recipes are from the Hinlo and Lo families. Literally, the same food they loved as kids, now offered to an adoring public. That’s not an exaggeration. Queues at noon have quickly become a daily validation of the dishes. I suggest that you come in by 11:30am for lunch, especially if you’re with a group of four or more.

I’m certain that what draws the diners is the sheer authenticity of the food. The KBL (Kadyos, Baboy, Langka), which will be available in IFC this August, comes from a recipe passed on to Chef Rommel by his childhood yaya: it is replete with the pigeon pea, those tiny legumes so essential in Ilonggo cuisine. The Kansi, the Bulalo of Bacolod, is soured by Batwan, a green fruit endemic to Western Visayas. There’s Ginamos of course, Central Philippines’ bagoong, and it makes a welcome appearance as component in a scrumptious grilled chicken. Speaking of which? IFC’s Inasal is impeccable. For dessert? Freshly baked Napoleones comes with the coffee. Which is from, of course, Kuppa. And for drinks? Sugarcane juice, naturally. And there’s so much more, so many surprises in the Ilonggo Food Company. I’m a fan. And this early, though we’re only at the halfway point of the year, I can confidently say that not only is IFC one of my favorite new restaurants of 2018, it’ll most likely end up on many “Best of…” lists by December. That’s a guarantee. And once you visit, I’m positive you’ll agree.

09 8

Ilonggo Food Company is located at G/F Commercenter, 31st corner 4th Ave., BGC. 0917 827 4264.

LET'S EAT — August 2018 01

WORDS BY SPANKY HIZON ENRQUEZ

Nono’s Sunshine on a Cloudy Day… it’s always warm and welcoming here

PHOTOS BY GABBY CANTERO

LET'S EAT — August 2018

“

’ve got sunshine, on a cloudy day… when it’s cold outside, I’ve got the month of May!” I’m sure you sang those first two lines, the instantly recognizable opening lyrics of the Motown classic from The Temptations, “My Girl”. It could very well be the theme song of the comfort food specialty restaurant chain named Nono’s. The bursts of sunshine, in this case, are the restaurants’ warm and bright and colorful interiors, and the girl is Chef Baba Ibazeta-Benedicto, who affectionately named her restaurant after her father. Long time PBA fans will quickly put two and two together and recall Nono Ibazeta, who was the San Miguel Beermen’s board representative during the basketball league’s halcyon days. Remember their grand slam era with Hector the Director, The Triggerman Allan Caidic, and of course, Samboy? Great memories indeed! And memories are the foundation upon which this fast growing concept – three

02 branches opened in just one year, with a fourth in Alabang opening soon—is built on. I love the fact that the music they play isn’t just background muzak… it’s a well curated playlist of Top 40 hits from the ‘60s and ‘70s. The songs that will make you hum along as you peruse the restaurant’s impressive menu of all-day breakfasts, 02 sandwiches, starters, salads, soups,

incredible main dishes, big plates for sharing, and those desserts that you’ll want to order twice. The first, to enjoy immediately after your meal, and second, to take home! After all, Nono’s started off as that well-loved purveyor of cakes and pastries and all sorts of spectacular sweets, Classic Confections. Their perennial bestseller? A decadent and rich cake called

LET'S EAT — August 2018

1 Homestyle Fried Chicken 2 Nono’s Salcedo Village Interiors 3 Nono’s House Salad 4 Fried Truffle Cheese Wontons 5 Truffle Cheese Pasta 6 Roasted Beef Belly with Balsamic Glaze

“Nono’s Chocolate Oblivion”. Oh, Mr. Ibazeta, your nickname really is your girl’s lucky charm! 03 Chef Baba’s restaurant is a progression of her creations, a most personal journey into her childhood, and into her home. It also is a showcase of her professional accomplishments. It’s a “Greatest Hits” compilation of the California Culinary Academy alumna’s bestselling items through the years. You’ll find them all at Nono’s: her Almond Crunch candy that became a popular flavor of a national ice cream brand. Her favorite cheese sticks, reimagined as crunchy Truffle and Two Cheese Fried Wontons. The luscious Strawberry Shortcake she named after her mother, Sylvia. And best of all? Her 11

LET'S EAT — August 2018

Buttermilk Fried Chicken. Perfectly crispy boneless chicken thighs, paired with country style gravy and premium honey, served with buttery corn on the cob and freshly baked soft dinner rolls. You’ll find it on every table. Everyone loves it and orders it, again and again. And why not? It is the definition, the epitome of the comfort food that Chef Baba so adores: “Comfort food is simple. It’s heartwarming, it’s nourishing. It’s full of happy memories with loved ones. Comfort food is… home.” I completely and wholeheartedly agree with the chef. And the ultimate beauty and value of comfort food, for her, and for me, is this: it will never need to try hard and change to be trendy, because comfort food? It’s timeless.

7 Classic Confections’ Chocolate Oblivion 8 Chef Baba Ibazeta-Benedicto 9 Sylvia’s Strawberry Shortcake

Nono's is located at G/F Three Central, Valero St., Salcedo Village, Makati. (02) 901 6748.

LET'S EAT â&#x20AC;&#x201D; August 2018

Borough WORDS BY SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ

All-American Family Favorites by a Chef from New York PHOTOS BY GABBY CANTERO

LET'S EAT — August 2018

y favorite hideout in Ortigas recently moved to the BGC, and it’s now a sunnier place, literally and figuratively. When Borough first opened at the Podium eight years ago, it immediately became a favorite haunt of that business district’s BPO community: it was always open 24/7 and it was always dark inside, the better to shield the graveyard shift workers’ eyes from the blinding sun, as they partook of their favorite New York-style comfort food and booze from the wee small hours up to nine or ten or noon. The restaurant also became a favorite for first dates and hidden romances. Borough had its own door, the only establishment at the Podium to be so blessed, so it was easy to come and go at all hours, or sneak in or out as necessary, even when the mall was closed. Borough moved to the second level of Bonifacio High Street, and it’s now part of that family friendly row of restaurants, wholesome and warm, all motherhood and apple pie. And somehow, it’s become an even better fit for Chef Cuit Kaufman’s All-American fare. Borough after all, when it opened in 2010, became most famous for its signature snack: Milk and Cookies. That’s why I first went in, and that’s why I kept on coming back, actually. But like I said, the original Borough? Dark. The new Borough? Light and Bright!!! Yes, bring your kids. They’ll love it here.

LET'S EAT — August 2018

1 Grilled Cheese and Tomato Soup 2 California Tuna Burger 3 Apple Cranberry Stuffed Pork Chop 4 BBQ Pulled Pork 5 Interiors 6 SnuffaLuffaNutter Pie

The SnuffaLuffaNutter Pie is irresistible. My Sesame Street television generation will instantly be charmed by the dessert’s name, but the YouTube babies will fall in love just as quickly and deeply. It’s a peanut butter mousse filled with fresh bananas, on a crumbled peanut butter cookie crust slathered with a layer of Nutella, garnished with heavenly marshmallow fluff, and then topped with caramelized peanut butterglazed popcorn. I’ll just leave that there for a few seconds for you to take it all in. . . . Admit it, that turned you on, you sexy beast of a foodie. Well, that’s what a great dessert is supposed to do. Mission accomplished!!! Chef Cuit offers a daily selection of pies and cakes, but this should be on the menu every single day. Ditto for the delightfully tangy Pineapple Passion

Meringue pie you saw on the cover. Sweet, and spiked with just the right subtly sour kick. Mouthwatering, right? I won’t blame you if you order dessert first, but don’t dare miss the Apple Cranberry Brioche Croutons Stuffed Pork Chops. It’s a mouthful of a name that lives up to its promise. It’s the best part of Thanksgiving, the stuffing, exploding out of a succulent and tender, masterfully grilled chop. And my personal recommendation? Grilled Mozzarella and Cheddar, melting and melding between two slices of buttery brioche bread, paired with a soothing serving of an ultra-creamy Tomato Soup. There’s only one best way to enjoy this: so dip it, baby!!! Borough truly is all about comfort food, but even more than that, Borough is all about good vibes and good times, good food shared with good people. Borough now is the new home of Happy Food!

B O R O U G H T R U LY I S A L L A B O U T COMFORT FOOD, BUT EVEN MORE THAN THAT, IT’S ALL ABOUT GOOD VIBES AND GOOD TIMES. 06

Borough is located at Upper Ground Level, C2 Bonifacio High Street Central,7th Ave., BGC. 0966 400 1150.