L E T ' S E AT
LET'S EAT — September 2015
E NO. 27 U S IS 15 0 2 R E B SEPTEM
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LET'S EAT — September 2015
L E T 'S E A T
E DITOR ’ S LE TTE R
ON T H E COv E R
DON JAUCIAN Managing Editor
PATRICK DIOKNO Art Director
Japanese whisky, delicate French pastries, and complex flavors are at the core of this month’s Let’s Eat, celebrating affluent dining like no other. Since we’ve expanded our borders, literally and figuratively, we’ve always wondered what else is out there in the vast world of Manila’s dining community aside from pop-ups and trendy restaurants. While buzz-worthy joints have preoccupied our wallets and social media posts, we thought it was time to spotlight the higher end of the culinary spectrum. Luxury now has become a keyword for brands that want to occupy the higher tiers in the market but for food, the word has always transcended fine dining. Affluence in food has always meant a precarious level of sophistication from the finest ingredients to the ambiance exuded by the place, right at the moment you step into its threshold. Spend your hard-earned money in these places, go beyond your gustatory comfort zone. It’s always nice to discover places that you think you wouldn’t enjoy. It never hurts to venture out into uncharted territory. Because when it comes to these culinary delights, there’s always something to make a lasting impression.
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SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ Writer
GABBY CANTERO Photographer
NICO NUYDA RALPH HILARIO Photographer’s Assistant
LUCIEN DY TIOCO SVP for Sales & Marketing
ANNALYN DELGADO Editorial Assistant Let’s Eat is published by The Philippine Star 202 Roberto Oca St., Port Area, Manila For inquiries, call 5277901 local 132 or email letseat062013@gmail.com Facebook: facebook.com/LetsEatPhilStar Instagram: letseatph
Matcha Green Tea White Chocolate Black Sesame with Hazelnut Praline from Cafe Macaron Photo by GABBY CANTERO
ERRATUM In the last issue (August 2015), we failed to print the correct recommended dishes for Smith Butcher and Grill Room and the proper subhead for Baby Pat’s Ensaymada. We deeply apologize for this oversight.
SHAKEY’S
LET'S EAT — September 2015
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CAFE MACARON
IMPRESSIONS
NOBU
ALTA
LIT
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ISSUE NO. 27
L E T ' S E AT Y OUR GUI DE TO THE C I TY’S B ES T FOOD S P OT S
The Wholesome Table (30th St., cor. 7th Avenue, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig). Photographed by Gabby Cantero.
LET'S EAT — September 2015
BOlD STROkES
LET'S EAT SWEETS
BY SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ PHOTOS BY GABBY CANTERO
Cafe Macaron’s confections distill a delicate balance between Filipino flavors and the allure of French cooking
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ingapore’s Raffles is famous for a cocktail invented in its legendary Long Bar exactly a century ago: the Singapore Sling. The younger sibling to the 98-year old tradition, Café Macaron at the Raffles Makati has become synonymous with the world class quality of its eponymous pastries. quezo de bola, its signature flavor, elevates our noche buena staple into a truly ravishing treat, capturing the colors and character of Christmas in a bite-sized confection. Nikki Misa is the very young chef who’s masterminding the Raffles’ ever expanding line of enchanting sweets, playfully blending her Filipino sensibilities with classical French techniques. Together with her equally youthful team, they’re fast establishing a new reputation for their venerable hotel as the top-of-mind destination for the city’s most creative desserts. 01
Cafe Macaron is located at Fairmont Raffles Hotel, 1 Raffles Drive, Makati Avenue, San Lorenzo, Makati. For reservations call 795-1840 or visit fairmont.com/makati
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LET'S EAT — September 2015
aTTRaCTION REaCTION
C
yrille Soenen is a chef who’s used to being nominated for the most prestigious culinary awards in the country. He’s also quite used to winning. I’d like to compare him to Tom Hanks, ever the Oscar winner, but Cyrille prefers a George Clooney comparison (i.e. Hottest Male Chef). Nonetheless, here’s a rundown of the honors he’s received over the past five years: Manila’s Best Kept Restaurant Secrets Award for Best Hotel Fine Dining Restaurant in 2010, for his first CiCou restaurant at the Hotel Celeste. Two years later, he won the same award for his Impressions at Maxims Hotel in Resorts World, along with Best French Restaurant for his new Brasserie CiCou in Greenhills. Just a few weeks ago, the dining public showed him as much love as he gets from F&B industry stalwarts and restaurant critics, when he garnered the most votes for “Favorite Chef ” in the first ever People’s Choice Awards. In the starstudded ceremony at the 15th WOFEX at the SMX, the native of Paris received the final and most awaited award of the day, and with it, the loudest cheers. But the most meaningful recognition he’s received so far has to be from his compatriots who comprise the most prestigious society of French chefs: the Maîtres Cuisinier de France. Earlier this year, Cyrille was inducted as a “Master Chef of France”. He is now considered to be one of his country’s elite culinary ambassadors, in fine company, along with icons such as internationally renowned celebrity chef Daniel Boulud. It’s an honor well deserved. His plaque of recognition is proudly displayed in Impressions—considered
BY SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ PHOTOS BY GABBY CANTERO
As Manila’s benchmark for fine dining, Impressions continues to reach greater culinary heights with an acclaimed French chef at its helm
ImPRESSIONS BREakS THE mOlD OF THE STEREOTYPE THaT FRENCH CUISINE COOkED TO THE HIGHEST DEGREE OF TECHNICal EXCEllENCE HaS TO aPPEal O N lY T O S N O B S .
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1 Strawberry-Yoghurt Parfait 2 Certified Angus Beef Tenderloin Rossini 3 Glazed Roasted Chilean Sea Bass 4 Roasted Brittany Lobster
LET'S EAT — September 2015
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R EC O M MEN DED by the majority as the finest fine dining restaurant in Metro Manila Impressions offers luxurious, almost decadent dining indeed, but it breaks the mold of the stereotype that French cuisine cooked to the highest degree of technical excellence has to appeal only to snobs. The menu of Impressions is as approachable as its charming chef. Take, for instance, the muscovado-glazed foie gras that Cyrille serves in a pool of Peking Duck consomme; it looks and tastes perfect as is, but the chef, ever playful and mindful of the guest’s experience, tops it all off with a sliver of black truffle. It elevates an already sublime dish into a plate of pure bliss. One of Impressions’ signature dishes sounds simple enough on the menu: a marbled terrine of duck liver marinated with red wine. But its presentation and plating behooves the diner to gaze at the luscious slab of elaborate richness, and sigh dramatically, before digging in and basking in its palate-coating glory. With crisp baguettes fresh from the oven on the side, this is a meal in itself, but in Impressions? This merely signals the beginning of a spectacular repast. We’re fortunate that we live in an era where chefs who’ve worked in Michelinstarred restaurants now call our country home. I’m certain that more will follow in Cyrille’s footsteps. And why not? In our
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current food-obsessed culture, chefs, both foreign and Filipino, our rising culinary superstars, are adored as the new rock stars of this generation.
Roasted Brittany Lobster Fin de Claire Oysters Certified Angus Beef Tartare 04
T IP S 1 The Impressions Sunday
Brunch has become legendary for good reason: all the wonderful staples are there, but the compelling reason for going? The unlimited foie gras. 2 Chef Cyrille has been promoted to Director of Culinary Arts of all of Resorts World, expanding his role to oversee 12 signature outlets, including the newest, NYPD, or the New York Pinoy Deli.
DETA IL S IMPRESSIONS 3/F Maxims Hotel, Resorts World Manila, Newport City, Pasay 908-8883 rwmanila.com
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LET'S EAT — September 2015 01
JaPaN CallING BY SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ PHOTO BY GABBY CANTERO
Find out why Nobu, now in Manila, is Vogue’s ‘hippest restaurant chain in the world’
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icky Estrellado, the executive chef of Nobu in New York is a Filipino, and he’s been working with the restaurant’s globally famous founder, Nobu Matsuhisa, since 1994. I’m proud to say that I knew him all the way back when, even before then,
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during our Belle Epoque, or Wasted Youth, depending on one’s perspective: ours as wild teenagers or our justifiably concerned parents. I still remember when Tito Rudy, Ricky’s father, questioned his son’s choice of career; back in the early 1990s, unlike today,
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a course in the culinary arts wasn’t even considered as a serious college option. Before he was sent to the United States to study, Ricky had to prove his commitment to his craft. And he did so by working the graveyard shift at that famous Goodah! in BF Paranaque. Yes, one of the most prominent Pinoy chefs in the U.S. used to fry up tapsi for boozed up party people at 4am. But destiny called, the son’s conviction erased all his dad’s doubts. Ricky was sent to study at the New York Restaurant School, where he graduated at the top of his class. Nobu came calling not too long after; and two decades later, Ricky’s at the helm of the flagship restaurant of what Vogue calls the “hippest restaurant chain in the world”. He’s now in town for a vacation, but he will surely be at the recently opened Nobu in the City of Dreams for a couple of days to check on how things are going in what’s now considered as the premiere Japanese restaurant in Metro Manila. Estrellado is a perfectionist. When I emceed his wedding reception a few years back, his wife Pam and
LET'S EAT — September 2015
I just looked at each other helplessly when he kept on stalking off to the ballroom’s kitchen to check on the food for his guests. He just couldn’t help it. I expect that everyone in Nobu Manila will be on their toes when he’s around. But I also expect the restaurant to receive the highest marks. It’s one of the most stunning dining destinations in the city, as befits the chain’s name and reputation. Nobu has over 30 restaurants all over the world, from Moscow to Dubai, from Beijing to London. Manila is one of the largest, with a seating capacity of over 300. Leading the kitchen battalion is Chef Zachary Hillberry, who opened
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1 Chocolate Royale Miso, Coffee Cremeaux Tart, and Suntory Whiskey Cappuccino 2 Wagyu Flambe and Lobster Baked with Uni Butter, Maitake Mushrooms and Black Pepper Teriyaki Sauce 3 Tai tiradito with roccoto pepper, cilantro and soy salt 4 Pork Belly Over Spicy Miso, with Jalapeno Salsa and Japanese Chili Threads 5 Nobu-style Tapsilog
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the namesake restaurant at the very first Nobu hotel in Las Vegas, which CNN named the hottest new hotel of 2013. I won’t be surprised if our City of Dreams receives the same honor this year. All the renowned dishes that earned a Michelin star for Nobu are on the local menu, including the Lobster with Wasabi Pepper Sauce and the Peruvianinfluenced Tiradito: a delicate ceviche-like preparation of the revered sea bream or tai,
R EC O M MEN DED DISH ES
NOBU IS ONE OF THE mOST STUNNING DINING DESTINaTIONS IN THE CITY, aS BEFITS THE CHaIN’S NamE aND REPUTaTION
considered as Japan’s “king of fish”. This level of excellence does not come cheap. But like all precious things, the Nobu experience is worth it. A meal here is one that you’ll remember for the rest of your life.
Tonkatsu Sandwich Oyster and Uni Shooter Suntory Whisky Cappuccino
T IP S 1 Wake up early for the most unique breakfast hotel buffet in the city: the star is the Nobu Tapsilog, composed of miso braised wagyu cheeks topped with sunny side up quail eggs, and silky Japanese garlic rice. 2 Nobu is also quite famous for its cocktails, including a Japanese Bloody Mary made with sake in lieu of vodka, and a Sidecar with Yamazaki 12-year old whisky.
DETA IL S NOBU MANILA
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Aseana Boulevard corner Macapagal Avenue Brgy. Tambo, Paranaque City 691-2882 noburestaurants.com/manila
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LET'S EAT — September 2015
a HIGER ORDER BY SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ PHOTO BY GABBY CANTERO
Renowned Chef Margarita Forés ventures into the realm of hotel restaurants with Ascott’s Alta
1 24-Hour Sous Vide Pork 2 Papadelle Braised Beef Belly Funghi Ragu 3 Crepe Millefoglie 4 Pan-roasted Sea Bass, Basil Cream, and Chorizo Fresco on Potato Corn Mash
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eeting Gaita Forés formally for the very first time, I admit, gave me reason to pause. I was afraid I’d fall into fanboy mode, get tongue-tied and end up asking for a twofie. Honestly, I would have been happy with that, but I was a man on a
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mission. I was very curious about her newest venture, and her first in a hotel setting. And I needed to ask her about a sandwich. She’s one of my chef idols, a lady who broke new ground in authentic, affordable, high quality cuisine, both Italian and Filipino. I’ve been to Cibo countless times, on fifty first dates and for innumerable meetings. It’s an 18-year old chain of restaurants that’s as current and popular as it was when it first opened back in 1997. My beverage order’s never changed, that gorgeous Uva Nera red grape shake, which I used to pair with a panini filled with prosciutto, Camembert, and dried figs. It was one of the best sandwiches ever—creamy, salty, sweet and intense with complementary flavors and textures. Somehow, it fell off the menu a decade or so ago, and I made it my mission to convince Chef Gaita to bring it back when I met her for lunch to try out the dishes at the newly opened Alta at the new Ascott serviced apartments in the Bonifacio Global City. It’s one of the preferred residences of expats on their first tour of duty in the Philippines; as such, the perfect time and place to subtly introduce them to Filipino cuisine. A non-threatening continental menu with our traditional ingredients to convince notoriously “safe eaters” to be more adventurous with their choices. Alta’s a culinary playground for the icon and and the 36 young chefs and catering staff Forés handpicked to handle Ascott’s restaurant, its business center boardrooms, a 250-seat ballroom, a bar, and even room service.
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R EC O M MEN DED DISH ES
THE SHOwSTOPPER IS THE CaSHEwCRUSTED 24-HOUR SOUS vIDE PORk CHOP, wITH a lINING OF SUCCUlENT FaT SERvED wITH a SmOkY maSH maDE FROm ROaSTED POTaTOES, aND aPPlE CONFIT.
The chef, it turns out, is the easiest person in the world to talk to. It helped, of course, that we both love to discuss our common passion, food, but the lady’s has so much to say. From Madrid Fusion to Casa Artusi to her work with Department of Agriculture Undersecretary Berna Romulo-Puyat. I was fascinated with the background she gave me about this healthy,
quinoa-like superfood they’re promoting as an alternative to rice, the adlai, endemic to high elevation areas Benguet and Bukidnon. She prepared it like a risotto, with mushrooms, and I devoured it. To the last grain. A parade of excellent dishes followed and the showstopper is the cashew-crusted 24-hour sous vide pork chop, with a lining of succulent fat, of course, served with a unique, smoky mash made from roasted potatoes, and a sweettangy apple confit. Something tells me I’ll be a regular at Alta. And why not? To put it succinctly, it’s got the feel of another Gaita Forés favorite, Lusso, but in a more expansive, even more luxurious setting. And that is a very good thing indeed. And yes, I did ask her to bring back that cheesy grilled panini with figs. And if that makes a comeback here? Things can only get better.
24-Hour Sous Vide Pork Chop Tagliatelle, Asparagus, and Truffle Cream Pasta Smoked Potato Chips with Garlic-Basil Mayo
T IP S 1 Save space for the
desserts. Chef Gaita has a luscious warm sticky Toffee Pudding laced with Chantilly cream, and a satin smooth Crepe Millefoglie with poached fruit. 2 Alta is an excellent out-of-the-way hidden date place right in the center of the BGC, just a block down from the back of the Bonifacio High Street cinemas; perfect for some time alone.
DETA IL S ALTA 28th. St. cor. 5th Ave., Bonifacio Global City, Taguig 860-9888 the-ascott.com
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LET'S EAT — September 2015
SPIRIT QUEST BY SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ PHOTO BY GABBY CANTERO
The celebrated libations of the Japanese—currently taking over the world— reign supreme in Lit
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hisky, that most Scottish of spirits, has been appropriated by Japan, and is now that country’s hottest export. Considering that the past decades belonged to Toyota and the Walkman, it’s not presumptuous to state that their single malts will change the way we experience the world too. It’s all about “omotenashi”: the Japanese L E T 'SK service ethic that anticipates DRIN every customer’s every need, and by doing so, satisfies completely. Lit holds true to that philosophy. The bespoke bar in Serendra has over two hundred Japanese whiskys in its collection, the most, by far, in the Philippines. Sipping Suntorys and nursing Nikkas here is truly enlightening. A meditation, not just of the liquor, but on the experience of discovering its true essence.
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Lit Japanese Whisky and Spirits is at Serendra, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig. Contact 09175100014 or visit facebook.com/LITManila for details
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