My Destination Reykjavik Magazine - Winter 2015 by MD Reykjavik

Winter 2015

FREE COPY

GLACIER WALKS AND OUTDOOR ADVENTURES MAKE SURE IT’S MOUNTAIN GUIDES

SUPER

ADVENTU EP OUTDOOR RES GLACIER WALKS RES ADVENTU VÍKDAY TOURS DAY TOU RS FRO KJA FROM REY SÓLHEIMAJÖKULL & SKAFTAFELL DAY TOURS

M REYKJA VÍK

Spör ehf.

587 Call +354

2013 -2014

2 201

ic el an dr 2013 ov Call +35 es.is -2014 201 uidmountainguide s.is4 587 3 er s. is 999 9 -2014 mountaing 9999 Call +354 587 9999

ental aw nm a o

Ministry for the Environment and Natural Resources

2006 For designing and developing Glacier Walks.

En vi r

ICELANDAIR PIONEER AWARD

MOUNTAINGUIDES.IS info@mountainguides.is · Tel: +354 587 9999 1

Feel like sharing? We got you covered

siminn.is/prepaid

Pay less with Síminn Prepaid Cut your mobile cost while in Iceland with Síminn Prepaid. Buy the starter pack at various retailers around the country. Síminn Prepaid Starter Pack Stay in touch and share your adventures on any mobile device

• SIM card • Initial credit • Top-up as you go

Síminn – your connection to home

Hello and Welcome to Iceland My Destination Reykjavik is a local expert in the global My Destination Network. We specialise in giving out relevant, in-depth and up-to-date advice to travellers such as yourself, on our website and in our magazine - this magazine, the one you’re holding in your hands RIGHT NOW. In this magazine, you will learn about some of the best places to eat, shop, party, and go sightseeing, as well as how to get there, in addition to some practical tips and fun facts about Reykjavík and its surrounding areas. (For starters, check out the next article: “Where to go, What to do and How to get there” - which aims to give you an overview over what there is and how to choose what’s best for you). This magazine aims to give you an insight into all things Reykjavík and the major highlights of the city; however, it is hard to explain to you the magic of Reykjavík on just 76 leaves of paper. To be properly informed about everything during your stay here in Iceland we highly recommend a visit to our website, www.MyDestination.com/Reykjavik. On the My Destination Reykjavik website you will find absolutely everything you could

possibly want to know about Reykjavík. The greatest thing about the My Destination network and what separates it from other travel sites is that it is filled with tips and reviews from locals who really know what they are talking about. My Destination Reykjavik is there for you whether you want to get to know the history of Iceland, learn about the culture, read about the restaurants you plan on eating at, book your accommodation, rent a car, find out What’s On in Reykjavik, browse through photos or load up on useful information. Basically we have everything you need to get informed and make the best of your trip. My Destination is a global travel resource that is powered by a diverse community of hundreds of local experts. The local experts at My Destination Reykjavik are on the ground and have personally experienced what our destination has to offer. We make sure to produce comprehensive information in the form of travel articles, local tips, guides, reviews, videos and panoramic virtual tours. Let My Destination be your tour guide during your stay in Iceland and you will get more out of your experience than you ever thought was possible.

Reykjavik MyDestination Reykjavik Locally Informed, Globally Inspired. www.mydestination.com/reykjavik

Published by MD Reykjavik ehf. Laugavegur 4, 101 Reykjavik. Publisher: Sigurþór Marteinn Tel.: 551-3600. E-mail: whatson@whatson.is Editor: Hjörtur Atli Guðmunds. Geirdal, hjortur.atli@mydestination.com, Tel.:847-4153. Layout & design: Stefán Birgir Stefáns, sbs@sbs.is Content writers: Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir and the What’s On Team

141

I C E CO L A

B EL

Opinions expressed in this magazine are those of the individual authors. While every effort has been made to ensure the information presented is accurate, prices, times, dates and other information may be subject to change.

Printing: Oddi, Ecolabelled Printing Company

776

PRINTED MATTER

This magazine is published and distributed in exclusive collaboration with Reykjavik Excursions - a leading tour and coach operator in Iceland.

ÍSLENSKA/SIA.IS/FLU 71197 10/14

AIRICELAND.IS

ACTION PACKED TOURS ICELAND AND GREENLAND Air Iceland is your West Nordic airline, offering scheduled domestic flights and flights from Iceland to the Faroe Islands and Greenland. Choose from a variety of day tour packages in Iceland, and to Greenland, which include flight, bus transfer and guidance. A FEW EXAMPLES

Day Tour

AKUREYRI AND SURROUNDINGS

LAKE MYVATN

WATERFALL DETTIFOSS WINTER

⊲ Akureyri

⊲ Myvatn

⊲ Super Jeep and snowshoe

Day Tour

WORLD OF ICE AND DARKNESS

EASTERN LANDSCAPES

FISHERMAN CULTURE DAY

⊲ Super Jeep and snowshoe

⊲ Egilsstadir and the

⊲ Isafjordur

winter challenge

surrounding area

CONTACT AIR ICELAND OR ANY TRAVEL AGENT FOR RESERVATIONS For more Day Tours, look at our website www.airceland.is websales@airiceland.is tel. +354 570 3030

adventure

OVERVIEW:

WHERE TO GO, WHAT TO DO AND HOW TO GET THERE by Rögnvaldur Guðmundsson So you’ve landed in Iceland. What now? As you sit there on your tour bus, or in an information centre, enthusiastically leafing through this magazine, I’m sure you’re starting to realise that the biggest problem with travelling to Iceland is that there are TOO MANY awesome things to do. It’s enough to give you choice anxiety: should I bus around the magnificent sceneries or hang out in the museums? What’s the difference between the Golden Circle and the South Coast? Well put your mind to rest—here’s the quick-and-dirty overview over what is available and how to choose between them. 6 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

In Reykjavik there are roughly two types of experiences: sightseeing tours on the one hand, and activities on the other. In addition, basically every tour has several ways of getting around, for instance you can ride the bus, take a Super Jeep tour, fly in a helicopter or hire a car. So let’s just break it down one by one. WHERE TO GO: SIGHTSEEING TOURS The Golden Circle is without a doubt the best known day tour in Iceland. What is it? A 300 km loop that usually opens and closes in Reykjavik. It covers three main locations: Þingvellir National Park, the waterfall Gullfoss and the erupting geyser Strokkur. Reykjavik Excursions, for instance, has this tour scheduled every day of the week, several times a day, all year round, with guidance in English, German, French and Scandinavian. The question is: Why is it so popular? The fact is that there is a number of amazing places to see on day trips from Reykjavík, each with their own characteristics and amazing sights. Part of the reason the Golden Circle is a big deal, I

suspect, ironically, is because a lot of people go there. That being said, there’s a reason it’s popular, since there are some pretty unique things to be seen there: Þingvellir National Park is unique in two ways: it was the site of the Icelandic Viking Parliament from the year 930 to 1798, and it’s one of the best places in the country to see the tectonic drift—where the earth splits apart by about an inch a year. The Geysir Geothermal Area is unique in that it’s home to basically the only erupting hot spring in Iceland, Strokkur. And Gullfoss (the Golden Waterfall), is definitely one of the larger and more beautiful falls in Iceland. Whole day/Half day? The Golden Circle is basically a 6-hour excursion, but taking a whole-day tour usually adds something amazing for a relatively small increase in price. OTHER SIGHTSEEING TOURS FROM REYKJAVÍK There is a large number of destinations to day-trip from Reykjavik, each with their unique characteristics.

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

The South Coast is particularly good for waterfalls and black-sand beaches. The route takes you between a magnificent mountain range on one hand and the deep blue sea on the other—it’s a very scenic drive. You will see waterfalls Seljalandsfoss (our famous “walkbehind” waterfall), and the huge Skógafoss. It also offers the beach by Vík, with cool rock formations and basalt columns. Reykjanes is the peninsula on which the international airport in Keflavik resides, so if you’ve ridden the bus to Reykjavik, you’ve already got a taste of it. This area is one of the most geologically active places in Iceland. It has a number of geothermal areas and fumaroles, relatively fresh lava fields, rich history, quaint little folklore and, of course, the Blue Lagoon.

There are countless other places you could day trip from Reykjavik, but these encompass the major directions and areas you might choose to go. WHAT DO I DO WHEN I GET THERE? ACTIVITIES AROUND REYKJAVÍK Now we’ve covered the major places to go sightseeing, but what if you don’t just want to enjoy the scenery? What if you want to do something interesting and exciting while you’re there? Well, luckily there is no shortage of things to do in and around Reykjavík. There are too many to make a comprehensive list, so we recommend talking to a tourist information agent, however, some of the more exciting things are included in the box below.

GETTING AROUND IN COMFORT AND STYLE - HOW TO GET THERE So now you know where to go and what to do, but how do you get there? In general, for day trips, you have the choice of a Helicopter, a Super Jeep excursion, a bus tour or renting a car. For most places, you will have most or all of these options, depending on the season and the particular conditions. Helicopters are of course awesome, so if your budget can handle it, it’s an amazing way to see the scenery and get around. They also have shorter, more cost-effective trips for those who just want to get a feel for it and get some excitement in their life. Super Jeeping is the more luxurious of the ground-based options, and they generally take you places where normal vehicles can’t (or shouldn’t) go. The bus is a classic way to get around— and as opposed to self-drive, you don’t have to worry about finding the way—while the tour guide tells you everything you want to know. Car Hire, or Self-drive is often the most cost-effective for two or more people and offers more freedom, but then you don’t have the service of a driver or a guide.

The Snæfellsnes Peninsula is directly north of Reykjavik. It has a number of quiet little towns which fill up with fishermen in the summer, the largest of which is Stykkishólmur—a beautiful, picturesque little town with many historic wooden houses. Finally, the coastline is filled with rock formations and interesting natural phenomena. We deal with Snæfellsnes more extensively in the article “Journey to the Centre of the Earth and More,” on page 16. © Reykjavik Excursion

HORSEBACK RIDING: Anywhere, for instance in the Lava Fields of Reykjanes. HOT SPRING BATHING: Everywhere - the Blue La-goon is recommended. WHALE WATCHING: This is great to do from the Reykjavík Old Harbour. NORTHERN LIGHTS HUNTING: Outside the city, wherever the lights are and the sky is clear. See our article I Wish They Could Go On Forever. SNOWMOBILING ON A GLACIER: This you can do both near the Golden Circle, on the South Coast and in the Snæfellsnes peninsula. HIKING ON A GLACIER: This is easiest to do on the South Coast. SNORKELLING/DIVING: Most people do this at Þingvellir National Park though you can go any number of places. CAVING: Anywhere, but Reykjanes is good. We’ll take you there!

Reykjavik Excursions | 7

PRE-BOOKING REQUIRED Book online at bluelagoon.com

H recomighly on Tri mended pAdv isor

Another world between two worlds

by Rögnvaldur Guðmundsson

In the summer of 2013, I found myself in the position of having to impress a young lady. She came to Iceland, my homeland, to visit me, and I wanted to show her the very best of the country. So where did I take her, you ask? Well, to snorkel in near-freezing water, of course! As the Scuba motto goes: Cold is Just a State of Mind. It’s not altogether as preposterous as it sounds at first: the Snorkelling tour equips you with a dry suit and thermals to wear under them. Aside from the sudden pang of cold I felt when I first jumped in, the only place I got cold was a thin strip of skin between my snorkel and my dry-suit hoodie. And it’s totally worth it: We dove into Silfra, which is a tectonic fissure resulting from the earth’s crust slowly pulling apart by about an inch a year, so you’ve got Europe on one side and America on the other. The water in Silfra is some of the purest in the world, coming from a glacier nearby and filtered through volcanic rock for about 50 years(!) (imagine the coal-filter water pitcher you keep in your fridge, only the scale of a small city). It’s so clear that on a good day the visibility is greater underwater than above it. And the colours! Because the visibility is so great, the light filters through an incredibly large distance underwater, and everything takes on an eerie blue glow like nothing you’ve ever seen before. The snorkelling suits are rather buoyant and there is a very mild current in the fissure, so all you have to do is float along at your leisure and enjoy the colours and ever-changing scenery along the way.

10 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

To top it all off, Silfra sits in the middle of Þingvellir National Park, a beautiful, historic UNESCO world heritage site and the seat of the ancient Viking Parliament from the year 920 to the year 1800. It’s also one of the best places to see the fissures of the tectonic divide between America and Europe, so it’s not strange that this is where you do the snorkelling. For those with a PADI licence, it’s also possible to dive in the fissure, which obviously gives you more manoeuvrability in where to go and the option of seeing countless incredible sights. COLD IS JUST A STATE OF MIND Ok, I know what you’re thinking: Reggie, you’re a large, Icelandic, incredibly handsome and talented man, you’re probably not so sensitive to the cold. But how will I feel? Well first of all, thanks for the compliment, you insightful and perceptive stranger. But more importantly, like I said I was trying to impress a girl, a petite girl from Georgia (the state, not the country) who was decidedly not impervious to the cold. The worst that happened to her was that her hands got pretty cold, which will happen sometimes, but the point is she thought it was totally worth it. The experience of being underwater in a

tectonic fissure, seeing the crazy colours and doing something unusual you will remember for the rest of your life, and even yes, the feeling of getting a little cold, when your whole life is lived with air-conditioning in the summer and central heating in the winter – it lets you get out of yourself and feel alive, if only for a brief and glorious few hours. SCUBA ICELAND Scuba Iceland was started by Finni, Finnbjörn Finnbjörnsson, one of the most experienced divers in Iceland. He has been diving since the early 1990s, instructing since 1998 and amongst his many qualifications and decorations he was the first PADI Public Safety instructor in Scandinavia. He heads up a team of highly qualified and experienced guides who are relaxed, personal and professional. Scuba offers other tours around Reykjavík and Iceland, including combinations with diving and the Golden Circle, Northern Lights or Fontana Spa, excursions to the unique Geothermal Chimney “Strýtan” in Eyjafjörður in the East, 2-day packages and more. If you want to know more, check out their website or ask about them in a tourist information office, I definitely recommend them for an experience of adventure you won’t soon forget!

Scuba Iceland Fiskislóð 26, Reykjavík Tel: +354 892 1923 www.scuba.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Pour a glass of the number one beer in the country, raise your glass to a friend and say “scowl fyrewr thyer!” You should fit right in.

Skál fyrir þér!

Enjoy responsibly

I wish they could go on forever by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir

Having been born and raised in Iceland, I have seen my fair share of Northern Lights. That does not change the fact that when they come out, I wish they would go on forever. They hypnotise you and put a spell on you. They make you want more and more; you can never get enough. So I understand why people travel from all over the world to see them. They are indescribable, and there is nothing like them.

12 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

THE PHENOMENA The Aurora Borealis is a natural light display in the sky, caused by the collision of energetic charged particles with atoms in the high altitude atmosphere. If that means nothing to you, you’re not alone: when I was a child and asked what they were made of, the response I received from my parents was electricity in the sky. That kept me quiet for a while, but there is more to it, as I discovered when I got older. The charged particles originate in the magnetosphere and solar wind and, on Earth, are directed by the Earth’s magnetic field into the

atmosphere. But for all intents and purposes, let’s just say they’re magical, and beautiful. The Aurora Borealis is named after the Roman goddess of dawn, Aurora, and the Greek name for the north wind, Boreas, though the Cree Indians call this phenomenon The Dance of the Spirits and in medieval Europe, the auroras were commonly believed to be a sign from God. When I was a kid, I thought so too. The Northern Lights have a southernhemisphere counterpart called the Aurora Australis (or the southern lights),

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

which has features that are almost identical to the Aurora Borealis and changes simultaneously with changes in the northern auroral zone. Aurorae also occur on other planets and similar to the Earth’s aurora; they are visible close to the planet’s magnetic poles. I would love to see the southern ones at some point in my life, but to see aurorae on other planets will probably have to wait. REYKJAVIK EXCURSIONS NORTHERN LIGHTS TOURS For those of you who, like me, want to make do with the Earth for now, the northern lights can be elusive and hard to find. As such, proper care needs to be taken to ensure the highest likelihood of a sighting. There are several things you can do to greatly improve those odds, actually, so pay close attention. Northern Lights have three mortal enemies, all of whom greatly affect the extent to which one can see them. Avoid those and you should be relatively well off. Firstly there is the dreaded cloud cover. It’s quite difficult to see the lights through a thick carpet of clouds, so a clear sky is preferable. Do keep in mind though, that a local expert would be helpful there, as while you might see thick clouds right above you, Iceland is a…volatile…country when it comes to weather conditions, so don’t give up hope beforehand! The second enemy is city lights. While you might occasionally see the lights

We’ll take you there!

within city limits, I can assure you, they’d be much brighter and much more impressive without those lights. So going out of town is almost essential to viewing! The last mortal enemy of the northern lights is one that’s easily avoidable most of the time: daylight. A general rule in the world is that during night time, the daylight goes away. Alas, however, that’s not the case in summertime Iceland! As a result, the so-called “Aurora Season” is generally recognised as being from September to Mid-April. This is the season you’ll want to aim for when going aurora hunting. Now it’s one thing to know what to avoid and what to seek, but a whole other thing actually doing it. As it turns out, Reykjavik Excursions has an extensive experience in light-guiding, knowing exactly where and when to look for the ever impressive northern lights. These guys will ensure your sighting chances are maximised, and have in fact organised different tours, that should cater to everyone’s needs and wants. NORTHERN LIGHTS TOUR This is the classic one, available daily during the Aurora Season, the Northern Lights Tour is hugely popular, tried and tested. During the 3-4 hours, an auroraexpert takes you to the best spots for a maximum chance of seeing the lights, altering the route based on forecast and conditions. On the off-chance that no

lights are seen, you’ll be welcomed to join the tour again, free of charge. WARM BATHS & COOL LIGHTS! This is an incredibly cosy tour, offering the perfect mixture of relaxation and northern lights hunting. We start off at the Laugarvatn Fontana open air geothermal baths and spa, for a complete rejuvenation of body and soul. There you’ll enjoy a local style buffet to ensure no one is hungry and the batteries are charged for the light show of a lifetime, as the Reykjavik Excursions guides take you on a tour of the area, before dropping you off at your hotel. Keep in mind that the lights are, as mentioned, elusive, so sightings cannot be guaranteed. Additionally, make sure to bring warm clothes, a swimsuit and a towel for the best experience! HORSE THEATRE AND NORTHERN LIGHTS - THE LEGENDS OF SLEIPNIR Due to the unpredictable nature of the Northern Lights, it’s great to make the most of your night by combining it with the fantastically innovative Horse Theatre and a light dinner, followed by the Northern Lights Hunt. That way, you’re guaranteed to see something fantastic, even if the lights aren’t cooperating!

Reykjavik Excursions | 13

Our Dearest Dairy Product Skyr (pronounced skeer) is a unique Icelandic dairy product which has been a staple food in our country for over a thousand years. It is still enjoyed daily by Icelanders, in various shapes and form, renowned for its high protein content and smooth texture. PROVISIONS OF HISTORY This deliciously healthy course or snack has been a large part of the Icelandic diet since the first settlers brought it with them around the year 1000. It is even mentioned in the Icelandic Sagas. Skyr is made from clotted skim milk, it has a slightly acid taste and a tinge of sweetness. This product has been popular through history, with both children and adults, due to its versatility and nutritional qualities. It is a creamy delicacy that is both fat-free and rich in protein, giving you a great sense of fullness. A convenient and healthy food that is loved by both Icelanders and visitors alike. In recent times this product, which to tell you the truth was considered a rather old fashioned way of eating when I was growing up, has become the snack of all snacks. With the body-building craze that Iceland has undergone in the past years, a pot of Skyr

has again become the image of all things good and pure. The high protein/low fat combination has made it an indispensable part of any health oriented Icelander. A LOW CALORIE BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER AND DESERT. So for people who want to restrict their calorie intake but still eat well and maintain a balanced diet, skyr is the natural choice. Although, mind you, serving it with cream and lots of sugar, like my grandparents prefer it, might put a damper on the dieting aspect of things. Children love it and for most of us over the age of 35, skyr was probably one of the first solid foods we ever tasted. Speaking of children, I came home from work today, famished as usual, and immediately started rummaging through the refrigerator for something to ease my suffering. A can of Skyr was what I found, perfect, round, cold, ready to help me survive

until dinner time. I opened the can, took one oh so gratifying spoonful and left the can on the kitchen table to go answer the phone. When I came back (no more than two minutes later) I found my three year old son with my spoon in his hand, smiling ear to ear, telling me proudly that he had finished all of “his” food. Bless him. If you are into low fat cooking, unflavoured, unsweetened skyr is a great fat-free substitute for mayonnaise, crème fraiche or yogurt in cold dips and oven dishes. It contains 10% high quality protein, 20% of which is whey protein, best known for its muscle building qualities. FRESH FROM THE ARCTIC This beloved product of ours is made from the best ingredients: milk farmed in the fresh green pastures near the Arctic Circle where the water is pure and the nature is unspoilt. The modern day processing technique is 100% natural, based on the original principles, using a thousand year old recipe and milk from the same cow breed, the colourful settlement cow, whose milk has unique health-promoting qualities. Until a few years ago, Skyr was only available in Iceland. This has changed dramatically in recent years since Skyr is now produced in Denmark, Sweden and Norway under licence agreements from Iceland and exported to Finland. Skyr has proven to be liked by Iceland‘s neighbours with sales growing. This is really a lovely example of how life runs in circles since the original Icelandic settlers indeed came from Norway, and along with them, in all likelihood, the recipe for what has been the corner stone of Icelandic diet since the beginning of time.

14 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

TIME TO EXPLORE

Gilbert Watchmaker, Laugvegur 62, 101 Reykjavik, tel + (354) 551 4100, www.arc-tic.com

A Journey to the Centre of the Earth and more Taking a glimpse of the wonders of Snæfellsnes Peninsula

by Rögnvaldur Guðmundsson

Snæfellsnes has everything and a bag of chips! In Snæfellsnes you can see a microcosm of all Iceland in a convenient Reykjavik Excursions day trip from Reykjavik. It has majestic mountain views, black-sand beaches, and a volcano and glacier rolled into one (a Volclacier? A Glacano?) and scattered around the scenery you find quaint little towns with interesting histories. The magnificent sceneries in this area is probably why it was used as the backdrop for Ben Stiller’s recent movie The Secret Life of Walter Mitty. SNÆFELLSJÖKULL – THE ENTRANCE TO THE CENTRE OF THE EARTH. One of the most interesting things on Snæfellsnes is without a doubt Snæfellsjökull glacier, which sits atop an active volcano at the tip of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. The volcano is 700.000 years old and has erupted about 20 times since the last ice age.

ages past to compete in strength and the heaviest one is 154 kg! (339 pounds!)

In his book a “Journey to the centre of the earth” Jules Verne used Snæfellsjökull as the point of entry through which Lidenbrock and his team start their journey.

ARNARSTAPI Arnarstapi is a long-abandoned fishing village which comes to life in the summertime, with fishermen sailing from the harbour and people spending their summers in local cottages. It has a camp ground, an inn and a restaurant. Here you can hike around the surrounding area and enjoy the mind-blowing rock formations of the coastlines from the observation deck to which the RE tour will take you.

In the park, among other things, you will find Djúpalónssandur black-sand beach. There you can test your strength with the three rocks, Strong, Full-Strong and Half-Strong. These were used by sailors of

STYKKISHÓLMUR Stykkishólmur is a picturesque and beautiful fishing town with only 1100 inhabitants, but this doubles in the

summertime with all the fishermen and tourists. It serves as the centre of transportation for the area – it’s where you catch the ferry for Flatey Island and Brjánslækur in the Westfjords. The town has many wooden houses from the 19th and early 20th century. The oldest of these is the Norwegian House, built in 1832, which now houses the local folk museum. Stykkishólmur also has a volcano museum and a swimming pool, among other things. That’s just a few of the countless interesting things to see, not even mentioning the scattered little farms, the area’s rich history (the peninsula was where the Saga of the Icelanders, one of the main historical sources of Iceland was written, as well as being the setting of the ancient Laxdæla), the magnificent Gerðuberg basalt columns, mountains like Helgafell and Hólahólar(the Hill-hills), and many other things. To learn more, book a trip and see for yourself! Tours of the whole area and all the sights are available through Reykjavik Excursions.

Reykjavik Excursions BSI Bus Terminal, Vatnsmyrarvegur 10, 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 564 4776 www.re.is 16 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

R O

Trip duration approximately

BSÍ Bus Terminal Reykjavík City

Keflavík International Airport

FAST, FREQUENT & ON SCHEDULE EVERY DAY OF THE WEEK!

Your seat is always guaranteed

Free WiFi on all our buses

Trip duration approximately 45 minutes

In connection with all arriving & departing flights at KEF Int. Airport

Transfer from BSÍ Bus Terminal to Keflavík International Airport or vice versa. Scan the QR code for our flexible schedule.

Transfer from most hotels and guesthouses in Reykjavík to Keflavík International Airport or vice versa.

For our very flexible schedule kindly consult our brochures or visit www.flybus.is BSÍ Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík •

Free WiFi

+354 580 5400 • main@re.is • www.flybus.is

A Wrist-Work of Art

by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir

What springs to mind when you think of watchmakers? Do the words Swiss, old and tradition leap up there by any chance? I thought so. Now, think again because there is a new boy in town and he‘s proven that timeless innovation, superior craftsmanship and exquisite precision can be achieved even if your heritage does not include chocolate and the Alps. When Sigurður Gilbertsson, in association with his friends Grímkell Sigurþórsson and Júlíus Heiðarsson, approached his father Gilbert Ó. Guðjónsson, a watchmaker of 40 years, with the idea of them designing and producing their own collection, his father laughed. Today JS Watch co. has five collections and sells around 350 watches per year. When Gilbertsson‘s father stopped laughing back in 2005 and this beautiful father and son venture became a reality they created their own brand and made 100 watches to begin with, to test the waters so to speak. Within 6 months they were completely sold out. This was back in the day when the Icelandic financial bubble was growing at the speed of light and almost every man, woman and child in the country was splashing money around like there was no tomorrow. Soon after the launch of their first collection, JS Watch made preparations for a follow up line

18 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

but then the financial environment started to change. The Icelandic krona, a local currency used in Iceland since the beginning of time, started weakening and in a short period of time it became three times more expensive to import the foreign-made components, the country’s currency became worthless and for a small manufacturer operating in the world market this was a huge problem. But there are blessings in everything and when the Icelandic economy crashed, along came the tourists. People from all over the world flocked to this curious volcanic island in the North because it had for the first time become affordable for ordinary people to visit. More importantly for JS Watch co; it became affordable for your average tourist to buy high quality design watches. They had an unrivalled high quality product at unbeatable prices for foreign visitors. “People had been desperate to come to Iceland but it was just too expensive,” explains Gilbertsson. “Once they discovered their

money would go a lot further the country became full of tourists. It has been great for business and not just in terms of sales. We not only take pride in our watches, but also our customer care. It’s very important for us that the people who buy our timepieces know the level of perfection we try and achieve. Although we aim to get that message across on our international sales, nothing can beat talking to someone face to face and welcoming them into our workshop.” Speaking of their workshop, among the many happy watch owners on their list of clientele are men such as Quentin Tarantino, Viggo Mortensen and the Dalai Lama, not to mention the entire Icelandic Coastguard. JS Watch co. is the Coastguard’s official supplier of watches and the offshore emergency service exclusively uses the Sif North Atlantic Rescue Timer, which says it all regarding the brand’s reputation for durability and accuracy. So dropping in on Laugavegur 62 for a warm welcome and a tour of the exquisite watch collections of JS Watch co should without question be part of your Reykjavík tour, it’s the chance of a lifetime to get the watch of a lifetime.

JS Watch co. Laugavegur 62, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 551 4100 www.jswatch.com Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

PROBABLY THE

WORLD’S SMALLEST WATCH MANUFACTURER

Our Master Watchmaker never loses his concentration

With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop. All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection.

At JS Watch co. Reykjavik we’re committed to provide a personal quality service and we pride ourselves on the close relationships we have with our customers.

We’re always happy to assist and we provide a friendly and reliable service where our customers speak directly to the designers and manufacturers of the brand.

Scan it and learn more! www.jswatch.com

Gilbert Watchmaker, Laugvegur 62, 101 Reykjavik, tel + (354) 551 4100, www.jswatch.com

ÍGLÓ&INDÍ

EVERYBODY LOVES IT by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir

I have kids and I have friends who have kids. We talk. Lately, the brand name Igló&Indí has been popping up in conversation regarding clothing for our children. There has been talk of fun prints and comfortable cuts and more to my interest as a journalist, there has been talk of great success in introducing the brand abroad. You must understand that Iceland is a nation of just over 300.000 inhabitants. Whenever something of ours draws attention to itself overseas, it makes us proud, happy and last but not least, curious. I made it my business to find out more. 20 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

THE BEGINNING Igló&Indí was founded in 2008 by renowned designer and mother of three, Helga Ólafsdóttir. Comfort, style and creativity were here guiding lights when she started her now famous children’s line, along with the notion that the clothes should be favourites for both children and their parents. Now, I have a five year old son. We do not always see eye to eye regarding what to wear and do you know why? Because I want him to dress a bit stylishly sometimes but he prefers comfort over everything else. This is why Igló&Indí caught my attention. According to Helga, she gets most of her ideas from children and from Iceland, the place where children experience freedom and are allowed to play outside with other children, animals and figments of their imagination. What adds spice to this lovely mixture is that Helga studied in Copenhagen, London and Milan and had prior to founding the company been a designer of adult fashions for many years. The idea of Igló&Indí came to life when she lived in the US with her husband and

her then two children, a boy and a girl. She found that there was lack of comfortable

boy clothes that were also stylish and cool. In late 2008 she made her move and started her own company. Even if she did so in the middle of the Icelandic economic crash, the wheels started moving, the ball started rolling and Helga was in business. Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

THE NEXT PHASE Helga’s partner is Tinna Ólafsdóttir. She is a mother of four and has a degree in finance from the University of Iceland. She joined Igló&Indí as CEO in 2011. By then the company had expanded rapidly without the organization and infrastructure necessary to ensure future growth. Tinna’s background in business and retailing was just what the company needed to spread its wings. To begin with, Tinna’s involvement was intended to be a three month project. Now she has been with the company for three years and says that she is in love with it. I met Tinna at her office and I can assure you that her

words are no overstatement. At this point in time, Igló&Indí is becoming increasingly popular in Northern-Europe, the United Kingdom, Scandinavia as well as, interestingly, in Australia. The current company goal is to become a leading Scandinavian brand in Northern-Europe. THE SECRET TO THEIR SUCCESS Don’t get too excited; Tinna and Helga did not hand over to me the recipe for creating a popular children’s clothing brand. I will however share with you what magic I managed to capture during my visit to their office. Igló&Indí have an excellent product and an unusually strong logo but that alone does not a clothing label make. In Tinna’s own words, none of that matters if you do not have the right staff. Their team is unusually spirited and they swap ideas and criticism like there is no tomorrow. They are highly motivated with exceptional drive and they all walk in rhythm most of the time. Bottom line: The best business idea in the world will never amount to anything without the right people to execute it. MOTHER AND SON (RE)UNION My son would wear sweat pants and a long-sleeved t-shirt every day if it were up to him. However, it is not up to him, it is up to me. Every now and then I want him to wear something stylish to match his stylish parents. (His stylish mother, to be exact. Let’s face it, the boy gets his fashion sense from his father.) It may sound like a cliché and so be it, but Igló&Indí have made my life easier. By now, there is no debate, no negotiations and no hassle when my little nugget and I go to birthday parties or the theatre on the

We’ll take you there!

weekends. We agree on what he should wear on every occasion because we have found a clothing line that meets both our needs. To be honest, and you cannot tell him I said so, if Igló&Indí also made clothes that fit his father, all of my problems in life would magically disappear.

Igló&Indí Skólavörðustígur 4, 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 571 9006 Kringlan Mall, 105 Reykjavik Tel: +354 517 7913 www.igloandindi.com Reykjavik Excursions | 21

A Food Designer with a Passion for Raw Foods

by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir

To interview a restaurant owner at lunch time during the opening of her third restaurant was a phenomenally bad idea. After watching this tiny hurricane of a woman running around for a few minutes, I made a judgement call and told her I would be back in the afternoon. Which retrospectively should have been my plan to begin with. Gló now has three raw food restaurants in the Reykjavik area. The owner and master chef, Solla Eiríksdóttir, has been involved in vegetarian and raw food cuisine for over 30 years. My first question, when I finally got her to sit down, was on how it all started. “I became a vegetarian before I was twenty. I was sick with allergies and food intolerance and was forced to choose between going on medication and completely changing my diet. I chose the latter and became a vegetarian, a life change that soon turned into passion for making good healthy food and spreading the gospel. Soon I started teaching vegetarian cooking and by 1994, I had my first restaurant. 16 years after my change, I found myself ready to try something new. That is when I gained interest in raw foods. I went to Puerto Rico in 1996 to study raw cooking. So I entered the world of raw rather early. “ According to Solla, people tend to connect “healthy” with “bad taste” in their minds. Her objective is to obliterate that connection by making raw food based on recipes and ideas that people already know and love. “My goal is to slowly but surely root out the prejudice and misconception that people have regarding raw food. In 25 years, the option of having raw meals will have become as common and natural as the vegetarian alternative is today.”

22 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

The road to reform is long and winding and Solla takes her role very seriously. “I am extremely passionate about this. Instead of turning my belief that raw food makes everything better just onto myself, I have spent the last 17 years inventing and developing recipes that turn what people already know into raw food. As a result, my restaurants offer pizza, enchiladas, sushi and lasagne, all according to the raw ideology. The idea is to get people to have a taste, to like it and to come back. “ But what exactly does the raw concept embody? According to Solla, it is a cooking method that entails heating the food to only 42-47°C. That way the enzymes in the food can be preserved in order to give the human body a chance to maintain its self-healing abilities. This applies to vegetables, fruit, nuts, seeds and corn. But in order to get people on board, Solla adds a twist: “Our restaurants always have on offer six to nine types of salads, one raw dish, one cooked vegan or vegetarian dish and one chicken dish. We cook the chicken in a simple manner and then we add the raw sauces and good spices to get people used to the raw taste and texture. The purpose of this twist is to enable people who enjoy good raw and vegetarian food to come here and eat with their friends or spouses who do not share their taste in food … yet” she says and laughs. And once a

week they have meat free Mondays to raise awareness on how much water and land it takes to make one kilogram of meat. Her endeavours have not gone unnoticed outside of Iceland. Solla has in the last two years been voted “Favourite Raw Gourmet Chef” and “Favourite Raw Simple Chef” in the annual Best of Raw contest, which accepts nominations and votes through their website bestofrawfoods.com. This is indeed an exceptional honour for her and a priceless praise for Gló. Towards the end of our meeting, I asked this ridiculously busy woman if she never gets tired. She smiled and said: “Yes, but I have so much passion. The passion keeps me going. The days have been long in preparing the opening of the new restaurant, but I have been giddy as a little girl from excitement. I am so utterly convinced that Hippocrates was right when he said that we are what we eat. People are just people, they all have to eat. I want them to eat well and feel welcome.”

Gló Laugavegur 20b, 101 Reykjavík Engjateigur 19, 105 Reykjavík Strandgata 34, 220 Hafnafjörður Tel: +354 553 1111 www.glo .is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Welcome to Gló Restaurant AT LAUGAVEGUR Gló is Iceland’s most popular health food restaurant in Reykjavik. Gló offers different set menu everyday: Raw food, chicken, a vegetarian dish and soup. Tasty desserts, coffee, tea and delicious juices are offered as well.

Laugavegur 20b · Open every day 11–22 · Tel 553 1111 · www.glo.is · #gloiceland

The Traditions of Christmas

by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir

Christmas in Iceland is a magical time. Taking place a few days after winter solstice, during the darkest time of the year, Christmas brings light and joy to a season that sometimes seems to go on forever. Christmas in Iceland is a magical time. Taking place a few days after winter solstice, during the darkest time of the year, Christmas brings light and joy to a season that sometimes seems to go on forever.

Iceland takes Christmas very seriously, but it’s warm, cosy and delightful The history of Christmas is interwoven with the heathen celebration of the winter solstice here in the north. This Nordic festival fell together with celebrating the birth of Jesus Christ when Iceland turned to Christianity over a thousand years ago. In the 4th and 5th centuries, it became a tradition to remember the birth of Jesus on December 25th and to celebrate his christening on January 6th. It is because of this that the Icelandic Christmas, as Christmas in many other countries, is thirteen days long. It starts at 6.00 pm on December 24th and ends on the night of January 6th. The main events, Christmas Dinner and the opening of presents, take place on the evening of December 24th, which is different from most other Christian countries, where Christmas Day on December 25th brings most of the fun. PREPARATION IS EVERYTHING But to many people, the time spent on preparing Christmas is in no way less important or magical

24 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

than the actual event. The last four weeks before Christmas are called “aðventa”, equivalent to the English advent. The word comes from Latin and means emergence or coming. When I was a child, some thirty odd years ago, Christmas preparations usually didn’t start until during the advent and for instance, an unwritten rule existed until a few years ago that none of the Icelandic radio stations would play Christmas songs until December 1st. People would also wait to decorate their houses until the advent and stores would not advertise Christmas goods until that time. All this has changed and now the first Christmas advertisements usually see the light of day around October 20th. But despite all that, rituals and tradition, more than anything, are what makes Christmas in Iceland. People use the same food recipes, attend the same Christmas parties and set the table in the same manner year after year so that when the bell strikes 6.00 on Christmas Eve, everything is the same as it ever was.

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

WHITE CHRISTMAS IN ICELAND, ANYONE? To many of us simple creatures, it is very important to have snow on Christmas. There is usually great speculation during advent on whether Christmas will be white or red here in the land of ice and snow. Because of changes in climate (dare I say Green House Effect?), white Christmases have become somewhat of a rarity in the southern part of Iceland. During the first ten or so Christmases that I remember (yes, that would be the ‘80s), we always had snow during Christmas. In fact, we also had snow during the weeks before Christmas. And the months after Christmas. We basically had snow from November until March (at least that is how I remember it). I guess I have to accept the fact that the 30 centimetres of snow that we had during Christmas in 1982 are never coming back. THE PARTY-PART Getting together with aunts and uncles, nieces and nephews and of course, grand- and great-grandparents, is what this is all about. Christmas Day, the Second Day of Christmas and the

weekend between Christmas and New Years are usually packed with family events. I sense a split in opinions among my friends towards these events. In my family, we try to keep Christmas Day open and obligation-free. For many years, I didn’t even get dressed on Christmas Day, and I sensed some envy from my more party-oppressed friends. I remember friends of mine having stopped by on their way to a Christmasfamily function on Christmas Day a few years back. It was around noon; they were all dressed up with their two small children still somewhat sleep deprived yet sugar-overloaded from the night before, they looked tired and annoyed. Coming into my house did not help. There we were, me and the kids, sitting in front of the TV in our pyjamas, with steak and sauce leftovers on the living room table and the extended version of The Lord of the Rings about to start. Poor guys mumble something about this being the Christmas Day that they always wanted and slouched off to have smoked lamb with their great aunts. But the thing is, you can watch LOTR any time. Playing cards with your grandma in her best dress while sipping hot chocolate is something that must be cherished without question.

until spring and put on that one piece of clothing they had that was not used every day. My grandfather, bless him, once described to me his childhood Christmases. They had a small Christmastree his father built out of wood, they had good meat after having had nothing but fish for weeks and they had apples, which made him very happy. I cherish this memory with my grandfather. There is something beautiful in imagining him as a small boy on a farm in the 1930’s, happy as a clam with his apple, while modern day culture has us running around like headless chicken in trying to get the biggest presents, the best steak and the sweetest pie.

WE LOVE IT In all fairness, regardless of what religion Icelanders adhere to, we are a very Christmas-oriented nation. And no wonder. Can you imagine what the winters must have been like back in the day? When people lived in huts, lived off the land and could hardly go outside during the winter months without freezing to death or getting lost in a blizzard, it must have been nice to turn on the single candle they had, have the only nice meal they were going to get We’ll take you there!

Reykjavik Excursions | 25

The Festival of Overating

by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir

All over the world, food traditions are a significant part of Christmas and Iceland is no exception. Each family has their own special features of traditional Icelandic courses that cannot be changed because then Christmas wouldn’t be the same. But what used to be a two day feast a few decades ago has now turned into weeks of indulgence and luxury. Not that I am complaining. THE MEAT The weeks before Christmas used to be connected with fasting. In some cases, it was a religious thing but in Iceland it more often than not was simply a result of poverty and limited resources. People had to save the good stuff for Christmas because there wasn’t much of it around. The traditional Icelandic Christmas dish at the start of the last century was “hangikjöt”, smoked lamb served with potatoes and white sauce made from butter, milk, wheat and sugar. For the less fortunate, the alternative was cooked grouse which remains a peremptory course for some, even to this day. In many households, hangikjöt is still served on Christmas Day but what is served on Christmas Eve varies more than it used to. Smoked ham (a Danish tradition) and turkey (an American dish) have become very popular in the last decades. THE COOKIES One thing is an absolute must in preparing for the holidays in Iceland, and that is the baking of Christmas cookies. There was a time when the excellence of a housewife was primarily judged by the number of cookie-types. Anything less than ten types was a sign of inadequacy. This has changed, both with the increased variety of sweets on offer and also because, let’s face it, who has time to spend weekend after weekend making cookies that will probably take up shelf space long into

26 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

the new year because everybody had crème brûlée and Ris à l’amande? THE DRINK Yes, we have a unique Christmas drink. Not everybody likes it though. I’ve claimed that those who do not must have had their taste buds removed, but that is just one woman’s opinion. It is a soft drink, a mixture of two soft drinks actually. One is an Icelandic orange soda; the other is called Malt and is, as the name suggests, a malt-based soda, dark brown and very sweet. When you mix those two together, you get what I can confidently claim that 90% of all Icelandic households serve with Christmas dinner. THE BUFFETS A novelty was introduced into the Icelandic Christmas scene in the 1980’s, namely the Christmas Buffet, which has since then become an indispensable part of getting into the holiday spirit. Originally, this was a Danish tradition and the buffets were a lunch event, serving herring and cold meats. Soon this developed into a full dinner which most major restaurants in Iceland offer in the weeks before Christmas, and many companies now invite their employees to such events as part of the holiday spirit. THE GREATEST TRADITION OF ALL Not every tradition involves fresh ingredients and the faint smell of quality cuisine. One of

the largest Christmas-traditions in Icelandic takes place on December 23rd. It is the preparation and eating of fermented skate. To be fair, the preparation begins a few months earlier. The Icelandic way of fermenting the skate is quite simple; the flaps of the fish are piled into a container and left there for a month or two. During that time, the urea in the blood of the skate brakes down into ammonia compounds. Harmful bacteria that would otherwise cause the flesh to rot (to become putrid) are kept away by the high acidity and other harmless bacteria during this process. It is commonly thought that Icelanders eat putrid skate, but that is not the case. The strong ammonia smell of a well-prepared skate should take your breath away and thoroughly clean your sinuses. I know people who say that if eating fermented skate does not bring tears to your eyes, then it is not potent enough. It is fair to say that wherever you go on the day before Christmas, you will smell this wonderful tradition. The smell gets into people’s hair and clothing and spending time outside does nothing to get rid of it, so people carry it with them wherever they go. If you are not lucky enough to know one of the many brave Icelanders who cook this controversial dish in their home, some restaurants offer fermented skate on the day before Christmas, thus creating an atmosphere that is truly, in more ways than one, like no other.

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Amazing 7 course menu

A unique Icelandic Feast Starts with a shot of the Icelandic national spirit “Brennivín“ Puffin Smoked puffin with blueberries, croutons, goat cheese, beet root Minke whale Minke whale with tataki Arctic charr “Torched“ arctic charr with parsnip purée, fennel, dill mayo Lobster Lobster cigar with chorizo, dates, chili jam Reindeer Reindeer slider with blue cheese, portobello, steamed bun Free range icelandic lamb Lamb with coriander, pickled red cabbage, fennel, butternut squash purée, chimichurri And to end on a high note ... Icelandic Skyr Skyr panna cotta with raspberry sorbet, whitechocolate crumble, passion foam, dulche de leche Our kitchen is open 17.00–23.00 sun.–thu. 17.00–24.00 fri.–sat.

7.590 kr.

Sushi Samba Þingholtsstræti 5 • 101 Reykjavík Tel. 568 6600 • sushisamba.is

ICELANDIC GOURMET MENU

Freshly caught seafood and free range lamb – with a modern twist

DINNER – 6 COURSE MENU STARTS WITH A “REFRESHING“ SHOT OF THE NATIONAL SNAPS BRENNIVÍN – FOLLOWED BY A BITE-SIZED TASTE OF PUFFIN ICELANDIC OCEAN PERCH Slow cooked ocean perch, beetroot purée, spicy butter, serrano ham, beetroot ICELANDIC MINKE WHALE Shallot vinaigrette, crispy Jerusalem artichokes ICELANDIC SEA TROUT Yuzu mayo, truffle mayo, crispy quinoa, apple ICELANDIC PLAICE Samphire, green asparagus, blood orange, lime beurre blanc RACK OF FREE RANGE ICELANDIC LAMB Lamb fillet, leeks, pickled onions, browned celeriac, baked carrots, spinach and dill cream Dessert by pastry chef Axel Þ. CHOCOLATE ROSE Chocolate mousse, raspberry gel, Sacher layer Austurstræti 16

101 Reykjavík

Tel: 551 0011

apotek.is

The Wonderful Feel of Last Minute Christmas Stress by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir

LAUGAVEGUR The history of commerce at Laugavegur goes hand in hand with the history of Reykjavik. The road construction of Laugavegur was approved in the town council in 1885, and its original purpose was to facilitate travel to the hot springs used by maids and housewives to wash the laundry (the preface “lauga-“ means “spring-“ in English). The street soon became the hub of shopping and commerce in Reykjavik and consequently in the country. SHOPPING IN DECEMBER They turn the lights on in November. Laugavegur and the adjoining shopping streets are decorated with lights and ornaments, and that is when the fun begins. Every weekend until Christmas, the atmosphere is cheerful and filled with anticipation. And of course, the stress level rises as the big day approaches because when stores close at 11pm on December 23rd, everything must be in the bag. In my hometown, the women have a habit of asking each other: Have you done everything yet? I never understood this question when I was a child, but nowhere does it spring to life more than at Laugavegur on the day before Christmas.

28 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

One of the wonderful perks of living in a small country is the closeness that develops between people. This is very apparent in the smaller towns but even in the capital of Reykjavik, with its 120.000 inhabitants, you can sometimes still feel the closeness, although Bob Dylan was not entirely wrong when he said that the times they were a-changin’. One of the best days to experience this is the day before Christmas.

THE FEEL OF IT December 23rd is called Þorláksmessa, or St. Þorlak’s Day, in Iceland, and it is a very special day in downtown Reykjavik. You can roughly divide the crowd into two groups; those who have not yet finished their Christmas shopping and those who got everything done in time and just want to get into the mood. There is music in the streets and as the day progresses the crowd becomes denser, and the pubs start filling up. All this is mixed with the smell of fermented skate and the light-salted desperation of husbands who decided to save the

wife’s present for last, yet again. This is the busiest shopping day of the year, and I actually know people who are very organised in their Christmas shopping, but always put off one or two things, just so they can get the true feel of Laugavegur on Þorláksmessa. My obsession with doing everything like the women in my home town permits no such indulgence but for those of you who plan on spending Christmas in this strange country of ours, walking down Laugavegur on this special day is something you should absolutely put on your list of things to do.

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

The concept of the restaurant is "casual fun dining" and we prepare what we would call a simple honest, "feel good", comfort food, where we take on the classics with a modern twist.

S KÓ L AVÖ R Ð U S T Í G U R 4 0

10 1 R E Y K J AV Í K

TEL.+354 517 7474

INFO@KOLRESTAURANT.IS

KOLRESTAURANT.IS

ALL IN ONE

RESTAURANT

ól

Grettis ör

ðu

íg

Kla p p a rst.

Vegamó

stað Berg

egur

Diverse menu, great value and a wide selection of cocktails, beers and wines.

astr.

Laugav

Kitchen Bar Café

gata

Vegamótastíg | 101 Reykjavík | tel. 511 3040 | www.vegamot.is

The Mischievous Thirteen

by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir

In most countries, one Yule lad or Santa Claus is considered quite enough. Iceland, of course, had go overboard. We have no less than thirteen Yule Lads and they have not always been very pleasant, either. ARE THEY NAUGHTY OR NICE? The first record of our Yule Lads dates back to the 17th century, and it is believed that they came about as a means to scare children. They varied in number at that time and there seem to have been either nine or thirteen of them to begin with. Since the middle of the 19th century, the number thirteen has been constant. The thirteen days of Christmas probably have something to do with that. The Yule Lads live in the mountains along with their parents, Grýla and Leppalúði, two troll-like, baby-eating figures who always get us into the holiday spirit. There they are accompanied by the murderous Christmas Cat, who sinks his claws and teeth into anyone who does not get new clothes before the clock strikes 6.00am on Christmas Eve. Charming, right?

30 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

AND THEY BRING PRESENTS, TOO. The Yule Lads arrive one by one and leave one by one. The first one arrives during the night before December 12th and the last on the night before December 24th. Then they start heading for their mountain homes again in the same order, so the last one leaves on January 6th, the last day of Christmas. As opposed to what happens in America, where Santa Claus brings presents on the night before Christmas, the Icelandic Yule Lads bring trinkets during the nights of their arrival, and place them in the shoes of children who have been behaving in a manner acceptable to the grown up population. Their shoes must be conveniently placed on the windowsills in their rooms in order for the Yule Lads to reach them through the window. Now, you may be wondering if it is a good idea to have children think that it is normal for bearded hobos to be looking into their rooms while they sleep. Believe you me, I know children who have lost sleep from sheer terror of this charming tradition. But the hope of finding a small toy or a bag of sweets in their shoe when they wake up, usually overrides the fear of the Peeping Toms in red.

THE NAMES SPEAK FOR THEMSELVES Speaking of Peeping Toms, the names of our Yule Lads are quite special. They changed quite often in the old days and varied between regions, but they have remained relatively the same since 1932. The names are very descriptive and refer to their individual mischievous nature. For instance, Þvörusleikir translates as Spoon-licker; Hurðaskellir means Doorslammer; Gáttaþefur is Doorway-Sniffer in English, and we also have, and this is no joke, Gluggagægir, which translates as Window-peeper. So we do, in fact, have our own Peeping Tom, who arrives a few days before Christmas, dressed in red. BUT THEY CAN ALSO BE NICE Today, the boys in red have mellowed. When they arrive at Christmas-dances with bags on their shoulders they do not in any way attempt to harm, hurt or scare children. They are still loud and very forward but for the most part they have become a bunch of singing and dancing old teenagers who make everybody very happy. For the most part.

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Iceland’s most precious cultural heritage Reykjavík City Museum is proud to present Settlement Sagas. The central feature of this new exhibition are of the nation’s greatest treasures, ancient manuscripts that are usually kept under lock and key at The Árni Magnússon Institute for Icelandic Studies. Recognised by unesco as having outstanding cultural value, the documents on display include Landnámabók (the Book of the Settlement), Íslendingabók, Kjalnesingasaga, Jónsbók and the Bill of Purchase for Reykjavík (1615). The Settlement Exhibition Settlement Sagas Aðalstræti 16/Reykjavík Open daily 9– 20 www.reykjavikcitymuseum.is

The Wonders of Volcanoes by Rögnvaldur Guðmundsson You’ll find the Volcano House near the old harbour, close to Reykjavík’s city centre. It gives guests a glimpse of how erupting volcanoes and earthquakes can be part of daily life in Iceland. THE MOST VOLCANIC PLACE ON EARTH Iceland is the most volcanically active place on the whole planet; with over 150 volcanoes belonging to 30 different volcanic systems. Due to its position on the boundaries of the American- and the Eurasian tectonic plates, Iceland has a volcanic eruption roughly every 3-4 years, and earthquakes every year. The most recent eruption started in August 2014 when the Bárðarbunga volcano erupted, resulting in what became earth’s biggest emission of lava in 250 years. In fact, Iceland’s volcanos account for more than 33% of Earth’s fresh lava. VOLCANO HOUSE CINEMA – DRAMATIC AND INFORMATIVE The Volcano House cinema shows striking documentaries on two of Iceland’s most powerful eruptions in recent times. One features the famous natural disaster in the Westman Islands, where a tremendous eruption began after midnight on the 23rd of January, 1973. That night, nearly 5,000 people had to be evacuated to the mainland, using all the boats available on the island. The other film presents Iceland as one of the most active volcanic islands on earth, documenting the world-famous eruption in Eyjafjallajökull, with amazing Emmy-nominated footage. As you probably know, this famous eruption caused unprecedented interruptions to air traffic over a large part of Europe. 32 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

GEOLOGICAL EXHIBITION – YOU MAY TOUCH THE ITEMS! The Volcano House also offers a brief synopsis of Iceland’s geological history and volcanic, together with fantastic photographs of the volcanic eruptions and other mysterious aspects of Icelandic nature. This is a one of a kind experience, available only at the Volcano House, including a hands-on geology exhibition where guests can handle various samples of pumice, ash and lava from Icelandic volcanoes. A large collection of semiprecious rocks and minerals from around the country are also on display. Some members of staff are geologists and everyone is well informed if you have any questions or inquiries. ON THE CUTTING EDGE OF ERUPTIONS Due to its particular subject matter, The Volcano House makes sure to stay abreast of current volcanic developments. For instance, the Volcano House mineral museum was updated with samples from the Bárðarbunga Volcano while the area was still closed to the public, and they make sure to display up-todate information about all ongoing eruptions in real-time. VOLCANO HOUSE BOUTIQUE The Volcano House has a souvenir shop that offers various gifts and artwork connected to Iceland’s volcanoes and nature. It has on offer classic souvenir items that make it possible for you to take home a piece of Iceland. These are items such as lava rocks, pumice, bottles of ash from Eyjafjallajökull, lava jewellery and more.

Volcano House Tryggvagata 11, 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 555 1900 www.volcanohouse.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

WWW.SEAFOODGRILL.IS — TEL: +354 571 1100 SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGUR 14 - 101 REYKJAVÍK

A Great Way to Start the Night! by sbs

In Reykjavik you’ll find Keiluhöllin, literal translation being “The Bowling Palace,” and the name makes a whole lot of sense, since it is not just a bowling centre, but a one stop for everything you need for a great night out. Winner of the most beautiful Bowling Restaurant and Bar in Europe in 2011, the Palace offers a great environment, not only for bowlers, but for parties, sport enthusiasts and foodies. LET THE GOOD TIMES ROLL The bowling area is the perfect venue for both professional and amateurs alike. You don’t really have to be a pro bowler to enjoy the sport, if you find that your grandmother is beating you then you just go ahead and enjoy the music, the ice cold drinks and the glorious finger-food available while she rules the bowling floor. It isn’t about who wins, it’s about the atmosphere, friendship and most importantly, having a good time. HAVE A HAPPY (FEW) HOURS BEFORE GOING DOWNTOWN The bar at the Bowling Palace is a state of the arts sport bar with live broadcasts of all major (and minor) sporting events projected on big screens. Every weekend, the bar is packed with competitive and dedicated party people, who enjoy watching the games while enjoying Happy Hour deals. Speaking of Happy Hour, it’s every Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 9 PM to 11 PM. If you fancy going to the legendary down town Reykjavik area to dance until the sun comes up, you can just catch a lift with the

party bus that goes from the Bowling Palace to downtown Reykjavik every 30 minutes from 11 PM to 1 AM! DID SOMEBODY SAY “BACONJAM”? Inside the Bowling Palace, you will find the fantastic new restaurant Shake&Pizza, that serves up amazing pizzas that will make your taste buds explode with delight. Their signature pizza is the Baconjam Pizza which has homemade baconjam (yes, that’s jam made out of bacon), pepperoni, chicken, jalapeno, topped with fresh made nachos and garlic sauce on top. It’s a perfect blend of savoury and sweet with a spicy after-taste. A must try! SHAKE IT OFF Now, let’s talk about something real important. The ice cream shakes. They are unbelievable in every sense of the word. They have the classics flavours like Oreo, mint chocolate, cookie dough, white chocolate, and for those a little more adventurous, salt liquorice, Toffee Crisp, KitKat, bacon and many more. Yes, they have bacon ice cream shakes. Yes, it’s made of real

bacon, and yes, it’s delicious and why wouldn’t it be? Every shake is made from real cream (it’s called ice CREAM for a reason) and served in a cooled glass with whipped cream on top. Now, if you’re starting your weekend right, you will want to try out the alcoholic shakes! Let’s not forget about them. A cool White Russian shake, a minty Mohito shake, a fierce Jack Daniels shake and the almost naughty Jägermeister shake are all perfect for those who want a bit of alcohol but still want to start the night on a sweet note. The Bowling Palace and Shake&Pizza is a great start to a great night out for couples, groups or just anyone that wants to experience a lively place is Reykjavik with great atmosphere. And who knows, you could end up victorious (even though you take your grandma along).

Keiluhöllin (The Bowling Palace) Egilshöll, 112 Reykjavik Tel: +354 511 5300 www.keiluhollin.is 34 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Fresh fruit, baked goods, sandwiches, hot soup … and all those important little things you forgot to bring!

Convenience stores open

Fill your backpack with snacks before a day on the road.

DADESFERSKIR ÁVEX COFFE FRIS RTI NECESSITIES We’re just around the corner BAC GEMÜSEVEGETALES COF

FRISKBAGT BRØD OG K

SHLY BAKED GOODS

AREN

CAFÉ PARA LLEVAR

www.10-11.is

From City Lights to Super Jeeps by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir & Rögnvaldur Guðmundsson

Have you ever been on top of a glacier? You won’t believe this magical realm of white plains above the world, and what better way to explore it than the excitement and comfort of a snowmobile. Snowmobiles are great fun and easy to operate. All the Mountaineers’ snowmobiles are two seated touring sleds with hand warmers and a high windshield. Participants can choose between a double and a single ride, so just stick the kids on the back seat and get going!

The Mountaineers of Iceland offer day tours where 1 hour of snowmobiling is included: The Express Activity Tour and the Pearl Tour. The Pearl Tour takes you on the Golden Circle, but with a snowmobiling twist. This tour allows visitors to get in touch with some of Iceland’s most famous and exciting natural phenomena and add a glacial adventure to it. It takes you to all the must-sees; Þingvellir National Park, Geysir hot spring, Gullfoss (The Golden Waterfall) and then they kick the action into high gear to get even

closer to Iceland’s nature and go for a snowmobiling tour on Langjökull, Iceland’s second largest glacier. If you have a knack for adventure and the need for speed, this day trip offers Iceland‘s best and then some. To be the operator of an open motorized vehicle on your way up to the second largest glacier of a volcanic island will introduce you to a feeling to which there is no comparison. Mind you, everybody is allowed to go at their own pace to start with and if you would rather double up with your partner and sit in the back, the experience will still provide you with something to share with your grandchildren. If you are on a tight schedule while staying in our beautiful country, the Express Activity Tour might be more suitable for you. It takes you to Langjökull glacier or a snow area in the mountains. Once there, you will embark upon an exhilarating one hour snowmobiling tour across endless white fields of snow. This is a great way to combine the experience of some awe-inspiring scenery and an adrenaline-filled activity.

36 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

To the Mountaineers, safety is the biggest issue, so just remember to bring your driver‘s licence. Everyone engaged in their activity service operations have extensive experience in the tourism industry and in activity operations and the strictest safety standards are always employed. All participants are provided with necessary gear like warm overalls, helmets, boots and gloves. BUT THAT’S JUST THE BEGINNING. The Mountaineers offer a wide variety of tours including jeep excursions, combinations with other activities and more! In addition to the Pearl Tour and the Express Activity Tour, there is, for instance, the Þórsmörk & the South Coast which takes you, as the name implies, to the south coast of Iceland and to Þórsmörk. On the way you will see the waterfall Seljalandsfoss, before heading north to the highlands of Þórsmörk—a virtually untouched wilderness of magnificent mountains and unbridged rivers. It’s a wild ride! The Northern Lights Hunt takes you in the comfort of a super jeep to hunt for the northern lights, wherever they may be seen. The agile trucks can go where most other vehicles can’t, and the drivers are experienced and adept at finding the best places to see the lights. With the Northern Lights and Snowmobiling at the Top of the World, you can combine the best of both, riding your vehicle across the milky white pastures in the dead of night while the Aurora Borealis play up above. This is all in addition to a myriad of day tours like the Monster Quest, which takes you to sites connected to legends and folklore, Quad Biking in the wilderness, and the Glacier & Desert Tour to Western Iceland. SUPER JEEPS AND TRUCKS The Mountaineers own and operate a number of Super Jeeps and trucks which have been specially modified to get to glaciers and other remote areas by the rugged mountain tracks of the highlands, inaccessible by normal cars. Their Super Jeeps have extra-large tires, 38 to 44

inches, so they can get their guests to areas that no other vehicles can. All the Mountaineers’ Jeeps have radio transceivers for communication between cars and a GPS Satellite Navigation System so whether you want to go on a scheduled trip or design your own Icelandic adventure, you are in good hands. The Mountaineers recently upgraded a large part of their truck fleet to “super luxury”. They have a new 8X8 and a 10X10 truck, both specially designed based on the Mountaineers’ extensive experience of Iceland’s mountain roads, and equipped with very most comfortable seats, heat management, speaker system, wi-fi and the very cutting edge in safety equipment. They are especially adapted to Icelandic conditions and are capable of going where other buses can’t go, they are perfect for a group of adventurers, family reunions, bachelor parties. The 8X8 Luxury Super Jeep seats 49 people and is specially made out of a MAN-truck’s 460 horsepower engine and driver’s compartment, the chassis of a German army truck and the passenger

We’ll take you there!

space of a bus. It is 14 meters (45 ft) long, 3.8 meters (12 ft.) tall, 2.5 meters (8 ft.) wide and it drives on 58 inch tires, has integrated guidance, and facilities for serving soup and coffee. The custom built 10X10 truck is made of the driver’s compartment and chassis of a GINAF 10X10 truck, and a DAF bus. It measures 13.6 meters long (44 ft.), 3.8 meters tall (12 ft.) and 2.55 meters (8 ft.) wide, drives on 54 inch tires, is powered by a 480 horsepower MAN engine and has allwheel-drive. They are about the largest conceivable street-legal vehicles you could possibly fashion in Iceland and they can get to some amazing places you wouldn’t dream of going in a normal car. We definitely recommend the Mountaineers for anyone who is looking to take a step out of ordinary life, and experience the

Mountaineers of Iceland Skútuvogur 12e, 104 Reykjaík Tel: +354 580 9900 www.mountaineers.is Reykjavik Excursions | 37

The

Golden Circle

The Golden Circle is the most popular day trip in the country. It is an easy drive that includes: Þingvellir National Park, Gullfoss Waterfall and the Geysir Geothermal Area. The Circle itself doesn’t have to take up your whole day, so it’s perfect to combine with other activities! ÞINGVELLIR Þingvellir is a beautiful National Park and the site of the Icelandic Viking Parliament from the year 930 to 1798. It’s also one of the best places in the country to see the tectonic fissures, where the earth is splitting apart by an inch a year. GULLFOSS The ‘Golden Waterfall,’ is one of the largest and most beautiful falls in Iceland, and one you can walk right up to. It has become a symbol for nature preservation, since the daughter of a local industrialist threatened to throw herself in the waterfall to keep it from being dammed.

38 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

GEYSIR The Geysir Geothermal Area is where you can see an the erupting geyser Strokkur shooting water up 15-30 metres (50-100 feet) in the air every 8 minutes. THE EXPERIENCE You can experience the Golden Circle in many different ways and can add loads of different activities onto your day. For example, in the Gullfoss, Geysir and Snowmobiling Tour (SRE-44), you add an hour-long snowmobile ride on Langjökull glacier, while The Golden Circle & Fontana Wellness (SRE-74) offers a relaxing bath in various naturally heated hot tubs and steam baths at the Fontana Wellness Spa.

Other options include snorkelling, or diving at Silfra, where you’re literally between the tectonic plates of Europe and America, or horse-back riding in the nature around the Golden Circle area. So there are definitely a multitude of choices, all of whom have great value. But in the end of course, you can just settle for the classic, the regular Golden Circle Tour (RE-04) or the more compact version, Gullfoss, Geysir & Þingvellir (RE-24), allowing for a more relaxed day!

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Blue Lagoon ∙ BSI Reykjavik ∙ Cintamani ∙ Hotel Saga ∙ Icewear Magasin ∙ Icewear Vík ∙ Nordic Store ∙ Kroll ∙ Öxney

“ZOMG REYKJAVIK HAS A BIG LEBOWSKITHEMED BAR!” Tweeted by @caitlinmoran - Followers: 546K – A Journalist for The Times. Ever seen the 1998 cult classic “The Big Lebowski” by the Coen brothers? Of course you have! Everybody has. But for those of you unfamiliar with the concept (you really should see this movie though) it involves the “Dude” Lebowski, mistaken for a millionaire Lebowski, who seeks reimbursement for a ruined rug and enlists his bowling buddies to help get it. In Reykjavík, we, now, have a bar based on the concept. YEAH, WELL. THE DUDE ABIDES. Lebowski Bar on Laugavegur opened in April 2012 and immediately became a huge hit. The general idea was to combine a bar with a diner styled grill, furnished in The Big Lebowski bowling style. Among the many great happenings at Lebowski Bar you will find are DJ’s every night and sometimes live performances, the Thursday night Movie-Quiz and every major game and sport event on the Big Screen. The bar can serve up to 300 people with food and drink in four dining areas so every individual or group can be seated comfortably. Their Diner Menu offers a variety of Lebowski burgers and milk shakes, such as the classic “The Other Lebowski” (Steak Burger with Bernaise sauce), the more health-conscious “Bunny Lebowski”

40 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

(Chicken Burger with Blue Cheese sauce) or “The Nihilist” (BBQ Chicken Wings). The crown jewel, however, is definitely the White Russian Menu, made up purely of Vodka and Kahlua-based cocktails. Recently they’ve been greatly adding to their bottled artisan beer menu, and their selection of Whiskeys.

saw the bottom of that Tuborg draft glass, people were dancing to The Doors and my instinct told me to pick up a White Russian for me and my date, who had been talking to some EVE online game conference guests as I made notes in my head about the brilliant atmosphere.

THAT RUG REALLY TIED THE ROOM TOGETHER The location of Lebowski Bar, along with its brilliant concept-design, is a big contributor to its success. Laugavegur is the main shopping and bar-hopping street in Reykjavik. Virtually everybody goes there at one time or another, both locals and visitors. Lebowski Bar has through its location been both frequented by regulars and attended by passers-by and foreign visitors equally.

HEY, CAREFUL, MAN, THERE’S A BEVERAGE HERE! Among the previously named EVE Online conference guests I spotted a pair of Icelandic actresses, having what I can only imagine being a glass of milk (as opposed to heavy cream and vodka) considering their itsy bitsy waistlines. Also present was an Icelandic MMA fighter (the only one we have come to think about it) and a group of college students who looked like they were really enjoying the music. The atmosphere in Lebowski Bar does not ask for age, gender, if you are wearing a watch or if you like bowling at all. It only asks that you loosen up, have a beverage or two and maybe a burger but most of all that you have fun. Walking out of the front door I wondered how on earth such a wide group of people could find themselves sitting down and having such fun in the same place. But if the Dude abides, so should we.

I checked out Lebowski bar on a Thursday night. I had been there several times before on a weekend, but arriving tipsy and leaving drunk I never wrote any reviews (although I should highly commend the bar staff for great cocktails) so I decided to behave like an adult, see the band that evening and have a beer. Having shown up early I got a seat between the bar and the band. Starting with a Tuborg Classic draft, I waited for the band to play their tunes and boy, was I in for a treat. The young keyboard player (a 19 year old prodigy) started the night off with Booker T & MG’s Green Onions, followed by the guitar player serving ZZ Top’s La Grange with a twist. Needless to say, people could barely sit still in their seats. By the time I

Lebowski Bar Laugavegur 20a, 101 Reykjavík +354 552 2300 www.lebowski.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

WE’LL TAKE YOU THERE! ALL THE MOST EXCITING PLACES IN ICELAND

EXCELLENT VARIETY OF NORTHERN LIGHTS TOURS!

A SIGHT NOT TO BE MISSED!

Free WiFi

BSÍ Bus Terminal 101 Reykjavík +354 580 5400 main@re.is • www.re.is www.flybus.is

R O

Skál for Happy Hour by Rögnvaldur Guðmundsson KALDI BAR – “EVERYMAN’S” PLACE Kaldi is a brewery bar associated with a microbrewery in the north of Iceland by the same name. They serve primarily the 4-6 regular and seasonal Kaldi beers along with a selection of other choice brews. The Kaldi brand has become extremely popular, in particular the “unfiltered” Kaldi, a lighter lager, as well as the darker variant, which is more malty. The atmosphere is laid-back and a lot of locals like to hang out here,

Traditionally, drinking has been a latenight activity, with Icelanders generally not hitting the bars until well after midnight. In recent years, however, we’ve seen an increase in the “happy hour” culture, familiar from other countries, where people will go out for an inexpensive drink or two after work, and then go home (or keep partying). These are some of our select happy hour places from around central Reykjavík.

The décor is primarily comfortable, with soft cushy couches, and a slightly industrial feel. It’s the kind of place you could imagine hanging with your mates after work. Happy hour is a selection of four tap beers at roughly half price, from 4 to 7pm. THE ICELANDIC BAR – THE HEART OF ICELAND At first this seems like a misunderstanding – aren’t all these places Icelandic? And yes,

they are, but Icelandic bar is an Icelandthemed restaurant and bar, with historic Icelandic items on the walls an all-Icelandic music. If this sounds like the worst kind of tourist gimmick, let me assure you it’s not – the clientele numbers plenty of Icelanders who feel at home in the quintessentially Icelandic surroundings and the food and beverages do not ask for your nationality to be enjoyed. Icelandic bar has all the Icelandic beers in existence available on tap

--------- DARK OR

or bottled, including the house beer, a dark red-ale. Happy hour is from 4-6pm with a special on almost all draught beers and house wines. SKÚLI - CRAFT BAR: RELAXED ELEGANCE Recently, Iceland has seen a huge upsurge of micro-breweries and craft bars. One of the latest additions to the flora is Skúli – Craft Bar. Situated in the heart of the old town, it is appropriately named for “Sheriff” Skúli Magnússon, of whom there is a statue just outside. Skúli Craft Bar has an elegant but relaxed pub feel, like a traditional English public house. Happy hour is from 2 to 7pm with a special price on 3 beers including the red-ale Skúli, the house beer, and the house wines. LEBOWSKI BAR – THE MOST DUDETASTIC PLACE IN REYKJAVÍK A bowling themed diner and bar located on Laugavegur shopping street. The bar was designed in the spirit of the 1998 cult film “The Big Lebowski” by the Coen brothers. The house drink is a White Russian and you really must try one, they are delicious. Lebowski bar has quickly become quite popular among locals and travellers as it’s a good mainstream bar with playful surroundings and is a good hangout place in general. They play major sports games on the big screen, have a movie quiz every

R LIGHT?

week, a DJ every night and a “burger of the month” at a discount price. Happy hour is from 4-7pm with a special on all tap beers and the house wines. KAFFIBARINN – IF IT AIN’T BROKE, DON’T FIX IT. Kaffibarinn is without a doubt the best known bar in Reykjavík for many good reasons. It was founded back in the early nineties and has since then been featured in the cult film 101 Reykjavík, frequently visited by Björk and other Icelandic celebrities and partially owned by singer Damon Albarn. Kaffibarinn has been the centre of Icelandic nightlife for years. It’s a cosy bar on most weekdays, softly lit and nicely decorated but as the weekend gets

---------

closer the atmosphere changes. Kaffibarinn is the perfect place to meet new people, dance on chairs, hang out with friends, have philosophical conversations with complete strangers or get wasted. DEN DANSKE KRO (THE DANISH TAVERN) – FRIENDLY, EASY-GOING, DANISH A Danish thing everyone loves, is the beer culture. The Danish Tavern has a relaxed, homey atmosphere, with a warm, comfortable décor, and Danish-themed images on the walls. The program includes live music, football games, beer pong, beer bingo and darts, and happy hour is from 4-7pm, with a 2 for 1 price on draught beer and wine.

An Old, Food Serving Friend The bus terminal in Reykjavik is commonly known as BSI. It is THE bus terminal in Iceland. Since its foundation in the late 60‘s, it has been the hub for all bus travel in the country. BSI is conveniently located in central Reykjavik and serving food has been a part of life at the bus terminal since the beginning. THE TERMINAL TRADITION The bus terminal café/bistro is called Fljótt & Gott and they serve traditional Icelandic food, which has been the BSI food service trademark for almost 50 years. The atmosphere in BSI is very cosmopolitan since it serves as the centre for bus travel in Iceland. The terminal has hundreds of thousands of guests passing through each year, both foreign and domestic. With daily trips to and from the international airport at Keflavik, this really is a busy place. The terminal restaurant Fljótt & Gott has a rich history and is one of the oldest restaurants in the country. It is safe to say that the tradition connected to Fljótt & Gott is very strong and the experience there is without precedent. It welcomes everybody to their comfortable and family-friendly environment where everybody can find something to their liking. Every day from 10:30am to 3:00pm, Fljótt 44 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

& Gott serves affordable local food, as close to Icelandic home cooking as it gets. But their grill is open from 7:00am to 11:00pm every day, serving burgers, steak, deep fried fish, sandwiches and other conventional grill dishes along with wine, beer or sodas. AND SOME THINGS REMAIN THE SAME There are two things that Fljótt & Gott are probably most famous for. First I would like to mention their serving of singed sheep heads, a traditional Icelandic dish which people either love or hate with absolutely no middle ground. This course goes back to when the country was so poor that every little piece of meat had to be utilized. I can still remember my son bursting into tears of terror on the first and only occasion he tasted this alleged delicacy. But I can also tell you that those of my family members who do appreciate singed sheep heads fall

into a trance of happiness every time this old tradition ends up on their dinner table. The second thing is their drive-through. Many of us who grew up out in the country remember trips to Reykjavik with our parents, sitting in the back seats of smokefilled cars with no seatbelts. The drivethrough at BSI was a fixed stop for us outof-towners back in the day. A hot dog and a soda for the whole family at the bus terminal drive-through is a cherished childhood memory for so many of us that the Fljótt & Gott is almost an old friend to our minds. An old friend that serves food.

Fljótt & Gott Vatnsmyrarvegur 10, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 552 1288 www.fljottoggott.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

HAPPY HOUR EVERY DAY 16:00-19:00

Álafoss The Small Dell with the Big History

by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir North of Reykjavik is a small town called Mosfellsbær. It is one of the smaller municipalities surrounding the capital, inhabited by just under 9000 people. It differs from the other suburban towns in being detached from the urban area, although Reykjavík keeps moving closer and closer. HOW IT USED TO BE In the heart of Mosfellsbær, up the Varmá river (e. the Warm River) is a small village within the village It is called Álafosskvosin, which in English can be referred to as “The Dell by the Waterfall of the Eels“. Yes, as cute as it gets. Because of the warmth of the river, this location spawned the first industrial cluster in Iceland in 1896. The river was utilised to clean and colour wool, which spawned the founding of the company Álafoss, which later became the main exporter of Icelandic woollen clothing and an empire as such, at least on an Icelandic scale. All of the buildings that make up this little gem of a dell originally belonged to and served the wool industry in one way or the other, but today they are part of a society made up by a coffee house, a recording studio, a carpenter’s workshop, a knife maker and the store named after the original wool exporters, Álafoss. HOW IT IS TODAY In addition to its magical location, the Álafoss store is an adventure in itself. Located in the old factory house that was used to drive the mills of the wool factory, it offers everything your heart could possibly desire when it comes to Icelandic woollen products. From

the traditional Icelandic “lopapeysa” (woollen sweater), handmade by knitters from all over the country, in all the colours and patterns they can think of, to high fashion woollen clothing, Icelandic jewellery, gift merchandise and souvenirs, this is a store that absolutely needs to be on your bucket list. Finally, if you are a knitter yourself, the store offers a handsome selection of knitting wool yarn of all types and colours plus recipes. After a visit to Álafoss, all you have to do is get started! MAKE IT SIMPLE But what truly makes Álafoss so magical is the history. On display at the store you will find a selection of old knitting machinery and photographs from the early days, and looking out of this 110 year old factory house, overseeing the Varmá River just outside the window, it is easy to imagine the power and foresight that turned this lovely little dell into a busy industrial site, buzzing with life and big dreams. Taking a walk outside, you can almost hear the voices of children spending their early 20th century summers diving into the warm river swimming pool. Life was simple back then. When you visit Álafoss, it becomes simple again.

Álafoss Alafossvegur 23, 270 Mosfellsbær Tel: +354 566 6303 www.alafoss.is 46 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Álafoss - Main Store Álafossvegi 23 270 Mosfellsbær

Álafoss - City Center Laugavegi 8 101 Reykjavík

Carrying on the Tradition A Knife at a Time One of the various entrepreneurs who have made themselves comfortable with their business at the Álafoss dell is the knife maker, Páll Kristjánsson, though everybody calls him Palli. Both he and his knifes are one of a kind. Upon entering his workshop, I was greeted (rather harshly) by a huge German shepherd. Of course he was already tied up and Palli called him down instantly so I had nothing to worry about. But there was something rather special in meeting a knife maker for the first time, surrounded by blades, wood, reindeer antlers and a dog the size of my car. Palli is the only knife maker in Iceland and to be honest, I doubt that they make knifes like his anywhere else in the world either. The blades vary in being hand-made copies of Iron Age or Viking Age designs from Denmark, Damascus steel, or factory-produced blades from other parts of Scandinavia. And each

handle or hilt is hand-made by Palli from reindeer antlers, sheep and cow bone and hoof, whale tooth and bone, and 12 millionyear-old trees (brown coal or fossils). He also uses various Icelandic stones and hikes both the highlands and lowlands of Iceland in search of materials; this man truly is the real thing. Not only that, but he also fashions the sheaths for the knives and they are no less evocative. Using leather, tree and skin from cow, seal and fish, he creates a unique and fitting holster for each knife. Often, like with

the handles, they are intricately patterned with Viking symbols and carvings. But you can ask for any writing or pattern. It is my solemn belief that when it comes to his labours of love, this man can do anything.

Knife maker - Palli Kristjansson Álafossvegur 29, 270 Mossfellsbær Tel: +354 899 6903 www.kitchenknives.is

www.knifemaker.is

www.kitchenknives.is

Choose a card that suits your stay: 24, 48 or 72 hours

the city card #reykjavikloves

www.visitreykjavik.is

48 72

“The purest form of power comes from a mind at peace” The history of visual arts does not go back many centuries in Iceland, like it does in many other European countries. Having been busy surviving cold, volcanic eruptions and famine, the Icelandic artist as such did not emerge until in the 19th century. Since then, the land of ice and snow has produced talented and productive artists in many different fields and we Icelanders pride ourselves of our interesting and diverse art life. One of our most famous contemporary painters, and the most productive one for sure, goes by the name Tolli.

THE BOY WITH THE PAINT BRUSHES Born in 1953, he was one of five high spirited brothers. As you can imagine, there was never a dull moment when he was growing up. His full name is Þorlákur Kristinsson Morthens (pronouncing it is a challenge, I dare you to try) and he has been painting since he was a boy. When the other kids were playing soccer, he played with pencils and brushes. His parents both dabbled with painting so it was easy for Tolli to get the necessary equipment and the only subject he

50 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

excelled in at school was arts & crafts. That does not mean, by any means, that he was a quiet and tranquil child, although we might picture him that way with the paint brush in his hands. On the contrary, he has always been a rebel. In his teenage years, Tolli opted out of society and rebelled against anything and everything. He became a poster child for the angry young Icelander of the ‘70s. Among other things, he spent time in the self-proclaimed autonomous neighbourhood of Christiania in Denmark,

worked as a fisherman on Icelandic boats and as a lumberjack in Norway, as well as travelling as a seasonal worker all around the Icelandic shoreline. But when Tolli was 24 years old, he decided that enough was enough and joined the Icelandic Academy of the Arts. He said to himself: “If I can channel into painting but only a fraction of the energy that I give to the capitalists running the fishing companies, I can make a living as an artist.” In the years 1982 – 1992 he produced twenty two private exhibitions, which is quite impressive by

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

any standard. In that short period of time, Tolli became one of the best known young artist in the country. A REBEL WITH A CAUSE Tolli tells me that in his youth, he rebelled against the entire world. He arranged events to protest militant occupancy in Iceland and formed a movement against nuclear weapons. He was what is commonly known as “an angry young man”. Early in our conversation I discovered that his negative energy has now been channelled into something completely different, that being a peaceful mind. The angry young man has turned into a calm and serene artist who teaches meditation and writes books on love, peace and charity. To Tolli’s mind, he tells me, love is a mega-power. It is part of our chemistry and an entity which effects the neurological pathways in our bodies. He says that we need to feel at ease in order to be happy and he spurns the old myth that art comes from suffering. It is the need, he says, the craving, which makes artists successful. To his mind, drive, courage and honesty are the key art-ingredients and suffering has nothing to do with it. I think he might be right. According to Tolli, to be a winner is to be constructive, always and everywhere, and he claims that life is hard. Meditation is a tool, he says, which helps people create the pathway towards acceptance. The purest form of power comes from a mind at peace, Tolli says with passion in his voice. It is hard to imagine that this zenminded man used to scream at society from the top of his lungs. ALL YOU NEED IS LOVE Tolli is a very emotional and spontaneous artist. According to him, his works of art can be regarded as an honest journal of how he was feeling at the time he painted the piece. This former rebel, now meditator and mediator, claims the world of the common people has been split into small consumption units and that all solidarity has been destroyed. To his mind, if we nourish the good, we will gain the power to change that. We just need to be patient and keep our eyes on the goal. If we all join in love and compassion, miracles can happen. The beauty in his views and concepts is simple and if you are lucky enough to meet him at his gallery, this will become instantly apparent. You will discover, as I did, that there is a strangely serene power surrounding him which is also to be found in his paintings. Tolli’s style and subjects have changed and developed through the years. His older pieces included, among We’ll take you there!

other things, powerful paintings of strange creatures and animals. In later years he has moved towards different subjects, including projections in ponds, volcanic eruptions, deserted farms and the fog. His attitude towards light has also progressed. In the early days, light was just a tool. Now it is the core of his works. It has been rather uncommon for Icelandic painters to have their own galleries and not many of them do. Tolli recently decided to break out of that tradition and started a gallery of his own at Laugavegur

in downtown Reykjavik. Needless to say, the gallery has been a success and on December 1st Tolli opens a new and improved gallery at Hólmaslóð 2, in the old Reykjavik harbour area. To his mind, it is extremely important for the customers to see the world which the painter creates with his art, and to see his work in an artistic context. Whether you are a virgin or a veteran in the world of painting as an artform, I can assure you that a trip to Tolli’s gallery will be a trip to remember.

Reykjavik Excursions | 51

We Welcome You To

The Best Airport in Europe Keflavík International Airport was voted the best airport in Europe in 2014 in an extensive passenger service quality survey at all leading airports. The Airport held top position in Europe in 2009 and was voted the best airport in Europe with fewer than two million passengers in 2011. In addition, the Airport was inducted into the ACI Director General’s Roll of Excellence in 2014 for continuous success in service surveys from 2008. You can therefore be certain you are in good hands.

52 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

NEW COMMERCIAL AREA 2015 KEF is one of the fastest growing airports in Europe and to meet the needs of our growing number of customers a decision was reached to expand and renovate the whole commercial area. The British design agency Portland has designed the look and theme of the new Duty Free area. This multi award-winning agency has 20 years of experience in a

variety of services for retail outlets in airports. The agency’s aim was to combine many facets of this rugged and quirky enchantment to create a dramatic, contrasting and richly immersive environment that inspires retailers and operators, and ultimately, complements the downtown Reykjavik experience. The selection and integration of materials

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

of the departure lounge area is highly dynamic and distinct. The rich tapestry of natural textures and colours is a reference to the unique character of the people and quirks of the culture. The majority of these elements, both natural and craft-made, have been locally sourced. In this way the environment and culture is brought into the departure lounge and support for the local economy ensured.

We guarantee lower prices and a great gastronomic and shopping experience. Whether you prefer a light refreshing smoothie, fresh fish, luxury coffee, hanging out in a family friendly restaurant or enjoying a beer from a local brewery you will find all at the Best Airport in Europe. We look forward to seeing you and hope you enjoy your travels.

ARRIVE EARLY AND ENJOY OUR SHOPPING AND DINING The new Duty Free area has a wide selection of food and beverages, books, magazines, clothing, electrical goods, spectacles, cosmetics, Icelandic design and plenty more.

Keflavik International Airport Keflavik Airport, 235 Keflavíkurflugvöllur Tel: +354 425 6000 www.www.kefairport.is We’ll take you there!

Reykjavik Excursions | 53

The Light of Our Lives Iceland, silly as the name can seem during the summer months, was named so for a reason. In the old days, before electricity and heating when the cold and dark actually killed people, selfpreservation and innovation were the key to surviving. It is a wonderful thing that one of the best known brands in Icelandic export is a product that has helped the Icelandic nation survive since the settlement. It‘s called lýsi and we are so proud of it. Our Norwegian settlers brought with them the knowledge of how to process lýsi which in simplified terms is oil from the livers of the animals in the sea. They made it from whale, shark, fish, seal and even birds and used it as fuel for light, to calm waves, to soften and protect the clothing of seafarers and as a nutritional supplement for both humans and animals. For a time it was even used as currency, as sources from as far back as 1096 state that church taxes in Iceland were paid in the form of this life saving, smelly liquid. The name “lýsi“ comes from the product having been used as lamp oil, in Icelandic the verb “lýsa“ means “to illuminate“ and when living this close to the Arctic Circle one can only imagine how precious it must have

been to be able to have light in the house. Add to that the fact that lýsi is a valuable source of vitamins A and D (in a country where the sun is absent most of the time and low in the sky when it does show its face) and it becomes an understatement to say that lýsi has had a real impact on survival in this country. The method of processing lýsi from the liver in the old days was, in the simplest terms I can think of, something like this: They dug a hole, put the liver in the hole and waited for the oil to squirt out. Nevertheless, Lýsi was the biggest export product of Iceland as early as the 14th century, along with dried fish and woollen cloth. THE BEGINNING In 1938 a man named Tryggvi Ólafsson founded a production and export company and called it simply LYSI . He had then spent the decade before trading and experimenting with lýsi, first in a small lab he prepared in his home. At the time he founded LYSI, the company was considered a pioneer in the production of marine lipids and later became a global leader in the field. The company’s research has been on-going for decades and today LYSI is at the world forefront of research and product development. Tryggvi had a seat on the board until he was 96 years old and it was in the year 1981 that the first nonfamily member became president of the company. In 1999 the company changed owners again and has been run by Katrín Pétursdóttir and her family since then. Katrín

54 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

is the granddaughter of Tryggvi Ólafsson. Her parents left LYSI in 1981 and founded Fiskafurðir, a company in similar ventures as LYSI. It was a happy day when they gained ownership of what had been founded by her grandfather over 60 years earlier. In April 2007, LYSI was awarded the President of Iceland’s Award for Export Achievement for its “unique achievement in the sales and marketing of marine lipid products and for the vision the company demonstrates in product development and for the build-up of knowledge and expertise in its field.” THE REST IS HISTORY Every child in Iceland knows that there is no way of growing up to be big and strong without having a spoonful of Lýsi with breakfast every day. They have no idea what Omega-3 and vitamins A and D do for them and at that point they don‘t care. This is tradition. This is what mummy and daddy raise them to do because their parents told them to and that has been the way of things in this country for hundreds of years. But the LYSI product line has more to offer than just classic cod liver oil in a glass bottle. The company now has various production lines, including shark liver oil, omega-3 fish oil and various blister products where in addition to the lýsi itself the customer is provided with vitamins and minerals to go with the ever so healthy liver oil we all love. But the majority of the company’s turnover comes from a tradition of 700 years, exporting cod liver oil in bulk. And in a country that is consumed with nostalgia, you can just begin to imagine how loving and respecting LYSI is branded into our dark-enduring, hard-working Icelandic soul. It’s part of who we are. Simple as that. Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Delicious Milk Chocolate from Iceland’s oldest confectioner, all wrapped up in the beauty of Iceland.

NET WEIGHT: 100g

You’ll find directions inside the packaging on how you can download the image that adorns each of these irresistible treats. sweetmemories.is

freyja.is

GET THE PHOTOS FOR FREE

The Gem of Reykjavík by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir

Perlan, or The Pearl in English, opened in June 1991. It is one of the capital’s landmarks and an amazing construct, a gigantic dome that connects six geothermal water tanks, who each has the capacity to store 4 million liters of geothermal water. Situated on the top of Öskjuhlíð hill, The Pearl can be seen from all over and serves as one of the greatest locations for sightseeing in the Reykjavík area. A CONSTRUCT LIKE NO OTHER The dome is made from glass and steel bars that not only connect the water tanks and form the dome-like structure, but also supply the building with heat. The steel shell is, in fact, a gigantic radiator. In cold weather during the winter, warm water flows through the steel shell. In the warm summer days, cold water flows through the shell and serves as a cooler. That is how the temperature within the dome is regulated to keep an even temperature all year round and make this beautiful construction truly amazing. There is much to see within this remarkable structure. The fourth floor cafeteria is surrounded by a broad deck from which you can enjoy a panoramic view of the city. On a bright day, the view there is simply spectacular. Another fun feature is the indoor

56 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

geyser imitation. This powerful gadget creates an indoor hot spring that can reach meters into the air. Quite intense actually! A VIEW FROM THE TOP The pearl within The Pearl is the restaurant on the top floor. With its rotating floor and an unparalleled view, it is one of the most popular restaurants in Reykjavík and rightfully so. The Pearl is a landmark that should not be overlooked by anyone who visits our nation’s capital and the same goes for the restaurant. It is only fitting to mix the magnificent view and impressive architecture with food prepared by some of Iceland’s greatest chefs. Some of the Pearl’s chefs are even members of the Club des Chefs des Chefs, a membership of chefs who prepare food for presidents and other national leaders and VIP’s. I have had the pleasure of dining in the Pearl’s restaurant on several occasions, and it really is an absolute favourite of mine. Whether it is their wild game buffet, their Christmas buffet or a la carte, whatever the occasion, the Pearl offers nothing but impeccable service and exquisite food. One thing to note is that Perlan restaurant places high emphasis on creating everything from the ground up. As such, you’ll find that the delicious ice cream served is made on location, by the highly qualified staff. Likewise, their bread, pastry and other such items are made right there. This is really in line with the quality focus that surrounds every aspect of the Perlan Restaurant. Dining there, one can really sense that everyone is working towards the same goal – that of customer satisfaction.

But that is not all. Dining there comes with a very special feeling which is difficult to put into words. I guess that the word which is best suited to describe this experience is festive. Not only does it feel both classy and fancy, but it has the ring of true celebration, to dine below this huge dome, seated on a rotating floor with a view of the entire capital, the mountains, the ocean, and if you are there at night in the wintertime, the city lights and the stars. It makes me feel like a princess. And that, my friends, is a feeling that I like.

Perlan Öskjuhlíð, 105 Reykjavík Tel: +354 562 0200 www.perlan.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

We´ve got the car to make your day

LINE K ON O O B

PER UNT * O C DIS ENTAL R

We go out of our way to bring you the vehicle you want - at a price you like. To obtain your discount book online on www.EnterpriseRentACar.is.

*Book online and use the coupon code FLYBUS1 to claim your discount

BSÍ Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík Keflavík International Airport Info@EnterpriseRentACar.is www.EnterpriseRentACar.is • Tel. +354 519 9300

The Icelandic Horse A Faithful Servant and a Loyal Companion

by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir Someone once said that there are only two ways to properly explore Iceland; from the air and on horseback. All the SUVowners in the country will probably beg to differ but there is at least some truth in this. THE BACKSTORY Thousands of people in Iceland keep horses simply for the pleasure of riding and enjoying the companionship of these wonderful animals. The popularity of travelling on horseback has been growing continuously and Icelandic horsemen are considerate and respectful when it comes to both nature and their horses. The history of the Icelandic horse goes back to the country’s settlement in the late 9th century and the breed has remained pure for over a thousand years. There is and has always been only one breed of horses here – The Icelandic Horse. For centuries the horse was the only means of transportation and also the most important working animal, through the years it has been referred to as “our most essential servant”. Today there are close to 80.000 horses in Iceland, an incredible 58 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

number for a nation of 300.000 people. The horse is used for riding, travelling and competition purposes and still plays a practical role in the annual sheep and horse round-ups in the highlands. A FIRST CLASS RIDING CENTER Íshestar is a 30 year old company and one of the most well-established horse rentals in Iceland. They provide scheduled day tours, country side tours and highland tours up to 10 days long with airport transfer, full board and accommodation. This is the real thing. The Íshestar Riding Centre is unique here in Iceland with first class facilities set in the beautiful surroundings just outside Reykjavík and endless possibilities in riding, hiking and other outdoor activities. The company also offers boat trips, jeep safari and horse shows on demand and their Riding Centre includes a spacious restaurant with a fully licensed bar. TOURS ON HORSEBACK The scheduled tours vary in shapes and sizes from half hour tours for children to ten days of riding in the highlands. The many various day tours include riding in the wonderful surroundings at Hafnarfjörður and other locations but also mixing and matching horse riding with a visit to the Blue Lagoon, whale watching, biking, hiking and seeing the Northern Lights, to name a few. For longer trips, the country side and

highland tours offers many irresistible possibilities, I urge you to visit Íshestar’s website to see what I mean. I myself have had the pleasure of exploring the Icelandic highlands on horseback on several occasions. There is absolutely nothing like it. If you have the remotest interest in horses (and honestly, even if you don’t) and are ready to explore the highlands of our beautiful volcanic island, I guarantee you that Íshestar will take you on the adventure of a lifetime.

Íshestar Sörlaskeið 26, 221 Hafnafjörður Tel: +354 555 7000 www.ishestar.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Step Back in Time with the Vikings by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir

What is the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Iceland? Björk, volcanic eruptions and heaps of snow? Well, you wouldn’t be too far off – but what about the Vikings? The Viking heritage is the cornerstone of Icelandic culture. These gritty, fierce guys who built the country originally, after having sailed over the North Atlantic on small boats, powered by sail and oars, sometimes in questionable weather and always with little to eat or drink. Without them, none of us would be here. VIKING HISTORY AT THE HEART OF HAFNARFJÖRÐUR The Viking Village in Hafnarfjörður has been a town landmark for over two decades. The two oldest houses in the village cluster were built in the mid-1800s. In the early 1900s the older of the two was connected to the fishing trawler industry of the town, which later became a flourishing fishing industry contributing to the growth and development of Hafnarfjörður. In 1985 the town council consented to have the house demolished but the National Committee of Building Preservation was against it and the building was saved. Since then, the Viking Village has been under constant care and renovation and has long since become a permanent part of the Hafnarfjörður landscape and culture.

TWO THEMED VILLAGES The Viking Village is a unique place and the only Viking theme Hotel and restaurant in Iceland. We have step by step been developing our facilities over the last 25 years and will hopefully continue to do so in the future. We offer Hotel accommodation and Viking houses. The Viking Village is located in a lovely town by the harbour called Hafnarfjörður but is in the Reykjavík area, it only takes 10 minutes to drive to Reykjavík city centre. Good for families and groups. In the hotel we have 41 rooms and then we have 14 cottages that can fit up to six people in each cottage. In the hotel we have free wifi, TV, hair dryer, coffee and tea maker, free parking, 24 hours reception and outside the hotel we have hot tup and sauna that our guests can use for free. In the Viking Village we have two restaurants, Fjörukráin and Vallhalla. Valhalla can seat 50 guests and Fjörukráin can seat 400 guests. Most nights we have live entertainment in the restaurants.

The Fisherman’s Village is our newest accommodation and restaurant and is located in Hlið, Álftanes only few minutes drive from the Viking Village. Like a country home by the seaside, such an idyllic place to visit. The restaurant is open for groups in the evenings and there we have singer that comes and sing for the guests while they have dinner. Hlið is close to the president’s residence.

The Viking Village

The Fisherman’s Village 60 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Strandgata 55, 220 Hafnafjörður Tel: +354 565 1213 www.vikingvillage.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

PLEASED TO MEAT YOU! Our 15 square and creative burgers would love to "meat" you.

the big bo

THE LAMBURGER

miss reykjavik

fat sigurj贸n

the bbq

surf & turf

morthens

MR. ROCK

FACTORY BURGER

the trucker

east coast burger

the president

ariba, son of salsa

rescue (112)

animal park

An Adventure Under a Bridge This is not the story of the three goats, this is the slogan for one of the best seafood restaurants in town, a remark made by one of their first customers as he contentedly pushed his plate to the side. The Fish Company is located in one of the oldest houses in Reykjavik, commonly known as the Zimsen building. It dates back to 1884 and was originally situated in Hafnarstræti, a few hundred meters east of its current location. In 2006 the house was completely renovated with tender loving care and then moved to Grófartorg in 2008 where it respectfully sits, under a bridge. During the groundwork stages of the Grófartorg reconstruction area, excavation revealed the remains of the older harbour. That has now been incorporated into “The Tides”, a work of art by Hjörleifur Stefánsson developed in collaboration with Minjavernd Heritage Trust. This gives

the area a unique atmosphere that gets accentuated even further as the tide rolls in and out of the artwork simultaneously to the tide in the current harbour. The menu is, as the restaurant name suggests, designed to take you on a seafood journey and not only a journey of the Icelandic culinary waters. With the Fish Company you get taken on a trip around the world, with top class marine cuisine melted together with themes from Japan, France, Sweden, Fiji, Ireland, Tahiti and the USA to name few. Dining at this restaurant is dining at its finest in

Reykjavik. To my mind, this is a restaurant that you can always count on to make your evening something to remember. Add to that the wonderful surroundings of this this renovated lovely old house, whether having lunch or dinner, you are in for a treat.

The Fish Company Vesturgata 2a, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 552 5300 www.fiskfelagid.is

ร gisgarรฐur 5, 101 Reykjavik (Old Harbour) www.elding.is

elding@elding.is

+354 519 5000

â&#x20AC;&#x153;

Elding is far and away the best Whale-Watch operator in ReykjavĂk. Outstanding naturalist guides, very friendly and professional staff, comfortable and stable boats and Marine Biologists working on board... Brilliant! " Mark Carwardine one of the world's most celebrated whale and dolphin experts

Mastering the Simplicity of Good Bistro A bistro-style restaurant under Scandinavian influences? This I have got to try. So, I did. When we arrived it was after eight o’clock on a Wednesday night. The place was packed with smiling faces and suddenly it didn’t feel like a Wednesday anymore. Everybody there seemed inanely determined not to let anything get in the way of them and their constitutional right to relax, chat, eat good food and have a drop of wine. At first I thought to myself that the interior of the place must call for this sort of relaxed attitude. At Snaps Bistro you will not find glass and steel unless in the form of cutlery. The key words here are more along the lines of flowers and wooden panels with the addition of a gazebo (yes, really). The food was first class, his steak was perfectly

cooked, my chicken was zesty yet tender and the wine was lovely. All around us were people enjoying the simplicities of a good Bistro menu. But even though all the ingredients were first class and the wine list exemplary, that alone does not create a desired atmosphere. It is rather simple, when you think about it. There is such a thing as “that extra special something”, a form of ambiance that has nothing to do with the food or the drinks or the waiters (which were great by the way). For some reason,

this place has it. We had an absolutely lovely evening, without really being able to put our finger on what made it so. It is my solemn belief that sometimes restaurants try too hard. Snaps Bistro does not try. It just is.

Snaps Óðinstorg, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 511 6677 www.snaps.is

SOUVENIR SHOP SH OP O F T H E Y E A R 2 0 1 2

MORE THERE ISORE TO EXPL

The viking:info Laugavegur 1 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 1 - 3 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 104 · Akureyri

info@theviking.is www.theviking.is

Akureyri Reykjavík

TAX FREE

Things to do on a Rainy Day Even though it’s winter, it doesn’t mean it’s snowing all the time. In fact, Icelandic winter can be rainy, cloudy, misty and loads of other annoying weather phenomena, often all at the same time. There is no need to worry though, as Reykjavik offers a lot of cosy indoor places that make you feel perfectly fine about being inside! SWIMMING You may think that it sounds strange to go for a swim in the rain, but contrary to popular belief, swimming in Iceland is particularly enjoyable in bad weather. This is thanks to the naturally heated water that comes straight from the ground beneath us and feels oh so good to be surrounded by in the hot tub. These publicly run swimming pools are in most neighbourhoods and serve as a hub for the residents who go frequently for the exercise, social interaction and relaxing quality of hot water.

number, ranging from small holes-in-the-wall with take away coffee to places with plush couches on which you could stay sitting comfortably for several hours. Because of the cozy environment and free Internet access many Icelanders spend an endless amount of time sipping on the best coffee while working, doing homework or writing a thrilling novella about rainy days. DRIVE IN THE COUNTRY SIDE Zooming past the dramatic landscapes of the Icelandic countryside from the comfort and warmth of your car can be extremely enjoyable. Be sure to blast some native music, it can only enhance the experience. MUSEUMS Reykjavík offers a wide variety of cultural treats. The museums of this small Nordic city make a point of being versatile and offer an

array of interesting exhibitions year round. The city museums include Hafnarhúsið, Kjarvalsstaðir and Ásmundarsafn. Purchasing admission to any one of these automatically grants you access to the other two, making this the perfect rainy day choice. MOVIE AT BÍÓ PARADÍS The only movie theatre in downtown Reykjavík with a large front entrance that works as a nice coffee house and is often used for small concerts and get together by all kinds of people and different groups. One of the main attractions is the alternative selection of movies available to watch. They seldom show the newest Hollywood blockbusters, and tend to be unafraid of offering up European films in languages other than English. Consider this place on a rainy day, they even offer beer, and you can take the bottle in with you to watch the film!

COFFEEHOUSE Nordic coffee culture is vibrant and generally speaking the coffee is of the highest quality. The quantity of coffee houses in the downtown area of Reykjavík are surprising in 68 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

SOME PEOPLE WALK IN THE RAIN Using only the the finest materials and craftsmanship the Reykjavik Raincoats are 100% waterproof like the fishermanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s style coats that were around in the 70â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s.

I WISH IT WOULD RAIN At Reykjavik Raincoats we are extremely passionate about raincoats and our goal is to make the perfect raincoat that makes you wish it would rain every day just so you can wear your Reykjavik Raincoat.

OTHERS JUST GET WET Handmade in rubberized cotton fabric with double stitched seams and welding on the inside for the perfect protection against driving rain and piercing winds with vents under arms to help with circulation and promoting good air flow.

Our aim is to carefully construct raincoats in the highest standard and sell them with love to people who care about quality. These coats are for people who have an emotional attachment to the clothes that accompany them through life.

What’s On in Iceland by Hjörtur Atli Guðmunds. Geirdal All the information you will ever need about everything that’s happening in Iceland! So you‘ve arrived in Iceland, your warm clothes in your bag, high hopes and a lot of excitement. Great! But now what? There are million cool things to do, so it can definitely be a daunting task to organize a stay here. Luckily, there is What’s On in Reykjavik. THE PRINTED What‘s On is really three different things but still basically the same. You see, it’s a magazine that‘s published every month all year around. It‘s been published for over 30 straight years already and is one of the most established tourist publications in Iceland.

There you‘ll find a selection of interesting articles, a comprehensive event calendar, covering everything that’s happening in and around Reykjavik, with a special emphasis on the spectacular museums of Reykjavik and the capital area, as well as plenty of other relevant and fun material such as restaurant, shopping and nightlife recommendation and a map of downtown Reykjavik. All in all, it‘s a cool magazine that you can pick up at all the hotels and the major places usually frequented by visitors to Iceland. Definitely something you‘ll want to check out if you‘re looking for something to do in Reykjavik.

THE INFORMATION CENTRE What’s On also has a tourist information and booking office downtown, on Laugavegur 4. There they continue the work of the magazine by physically informing you about the city and its events, as well as giving you neutral advice on what tours and activities you might want to undertake while you’re here, and helping you book them. It can be really tough to know what exactly you should do with your holiday and how to make the most of the days that you’re here.

--------- LOCAL O

You might be asking yourself: Where should I go? What should I do there? And how should I dress?!?! What’s the very coolest tour to go on? What’s weather dependent and what do I need to book in advance? What’s the meaning of life? But the staff of What’s On are locals with a good overview over everything to do, and they’ll take what you’re into doing (say shark wrestling) and advise you on the best way to do that thing (go on a scuba tour and hope for the best)...No promises on that “meaning of life” thing though. And even if there isn’t a specific tour for what you’re into, there’s always the chance that they know a guy who knows a guy. Basically they get you all sorted out – and it’s a free service! They also have a constantly-updated event calendar on the wall where the staff pin whatever hip musical, theatrical, artistic or other cool events might be coming up in the

AND THEN THERE‘S THE INTERNET. Finally there is the website, whatson.is. There you will the majority of the content from the magazine, all the best articles and such, but on top of that they‘ve a very extensive FAQ, an event calendar, and the option to book some hand-picked tours and activities in Iceland, operated by highly experienced collaborators of What‘s On.

following week, a whole ton of free literature about Iceland and brochures about different tours, and out in the courtyard there’s a big ol’ map of Iceland and the bus routes and you really should just check it out.

That‘s something you might really want to consider if you‘re looking for some activities or tours in Iceland! Lastly – if there‘s any question you might have that‘s not answered on the site, or anything you might need help with while staying in Iceland, they’re super helpful and will do their best to help you out if you contact them (whatson@whatson.is) You can write them just to test them, or tell them you read this article. They‘ll appreciate it.

USE WHATSON.IS TO BOOK YOUR TOURS AND ACTIVITES IN ICELAND NOW, OR FOR FINDING EVENTS, INFORMATION AND EVERYTHING ELSE ABOUT ICELAND!

R GLOBAL?

---------

What to Expect in an Icelandic Swimming Pool

Every country has traditions when it comes to leisure. In our part of the world said traditions tend to evolve around keeping warm. Finland has saunas, Russia has vodka, Iceland has swimming pools. THE HOT TUBS It all started with the hot tubs. They have literally been part of Iceland since the settlement. The most famous one is Snorri Sturluson‘s pool, Snorralaug in Reykholt, who is presumed to have lived from 1178 – 1241. His pool is one of four ancient pools in Iceland still in use. Today there are around 12.000 summer houses in Iceland, I will tread carefully and say that at least 11.000 of them have a hot tub. There is a hot tub outside half the houses in my neighbourhood and most of the hotels in Reykjavík have a spa with a hot tub so you really have to make an effort if you plan to avoid them. The definition of “an Icelandic swimming pool” might sound something like this: “A man made, usually rectangular, hole in the ground, in most cases concrete, filled with 25-28°C warm, chlorinated water, accompanied by 1-5 hot tubs with water temperatures ranging from 38-45°C”. You’re welcome to try to find a swimming pool without a hot tub in Iceland. If you do, let us know. THE CHATTER It goes without saying that swimming and unwinding in warm geothermal water on a regular basis is good for both body and soul. What is even more wonderful regarding these blessed pools of ours is their role as 72 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

social centres. All over the country people show up every day at the same time, hang their clothes on the same hook (and God help you if you‘ve ignorantly occupied one of these sacred clothes-storing-devices) and have their daily hot tub chat with the same co-swimmers. The earliest of the bunch are sometimes called “the doorknobs”, because they tend to be already clasping the knob when the swimming pool staff show up for work, still yawning and stretching. After that we have “the 8 o’clockers” and “the 9 o’clockers”, but those who routinely show up after that tend to be the anti-social ones, people who like their routine, love their daily swim and hate having to chat in the process. In the afternoon and evening the chatter begins again but the crowd is different, parents having quality time with their kids, people relaxing after work or workout and dating. Yes, dating. Going for a nice hot tub in the evening is a popular second date in Iceland, I kid you not. THE FACILITIES You will find more outdoor than indoor pools in Iceland. The reason is simple; the outdoor ones are less expensive. Which is fine, the fresh air is good for you. And there is nothing like having a swim and a hot tub during a blizzard, please do if you possibly can. What we have in many places, to add

to the goose bumps, are outdoor dressing rooms. Drying after a swim and a hot tub on a winter evening in -5°C is one of the most refreshing experiences you will encounter. And don’t be scared of the cold, outdoor dressing rooms in Icelandic swimming pools are (usually) equipped with heat lamps to keep you warm. THE EXPOSURE One thing you must realise before entering an Icelandic swimming pool: You will see others of the same sex naked and others of the same sex will see you naked. There are rarely rooms or cubicles for you to undress in and even if there are, you will still have to take your bathing costume off while showering. Why? Because we like our pools and hot tubs clean and smudge free. It’s nothing personal and trust me, for every man, woman and child in Iceland this is as uneventful as having breakfast in the morning. You can find the opening hours of most swimming pools in Iceland on www. sundlaugar.is The norm on work days is that they open 7ish in the morning and close some time after dinner but as with any norm, there are exceptions. If you don’t have a swimsuit you can usually rent one so there is no excuse, you have to try it.

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

www.laugarspa.com

The best health and body experience Iceland has to offer

Laugar Spa Sundlaugavegi 30a, 105 ReykjavĂk +354 553 0000

Opening hours: Mon - Fri 06:00 - 23:30 / Sat 08:00 - 22:00 / Sun 08:00 - 20:00

Snorkeling in Silfra Fissure Price from: 16.990 ISK

Northern Lights Super-Jeep Tours Price from: 19.990 ISK

Iceland’s #1 Adventures Activity Operator BOOK YOUR ADVENTURE NOW

www.adventures.is

Downtown Sales Office – Laugavegur 11 Open every day from 08:00-22:00

Lava Caving Adventure Price from: 9.890 ISK

Glacier Hiking Day Tours

Price from: 19.990 ISK

#arcticadventures

www.adventures.is | info@adventures.is | +354 562-7000 | Downtown Reykjavík Sales Office at Laugavegur 11 Rafting • Ice Climbing • Snorkeling • Diving • Glacier Hike • Canoeing • Hiking • Kayaking • Cycling • Surfing • Boat Ride • Hot Spring • Swimming • Climbing Super-Jeep • Caving • Horse Riding • Sightseeing • Snowmobile • Whale Watching • ATV • Incentive • Skiing • Mountain Hut • Camping • Combo Trips

– Visit our stores: 101 Reyk jav í k , A k u rey r i a nd G eysi r, Hau k ada l. w w w.geysi r.com –