Flybus Magazine - Winter 2017/2018 by MD Reykjavik

Winter 2017/2018

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Seven destinations with year-round possibilities Húsavík

Gjögur Bíldudalur

Experience the excitement of Iceland’s pure nature or get a bird’s-eye view of the country’s most beautiful places

Sauðárkrókur

Höfn

Reykjavík Westman Islands

Westman Islands One of the wonders of nature, surrounded by mountains, islands, volcanoes and seabirds.

Vatnajökull Region Witness the majestic power of Europe’s largest glacier or conquer Iceland’s highest peak.

North Iceland Visit Húsavík or Sauðárkrókur, and witness the natural wonders of North Iceland.

The Westfjords Explore one of the country’s most isolated regions, rich in natural wonders.

For more information, pick up our brochure at your hotel or local tourist information centre, or visit eagleair.is

eagleair.is | +354 562 4200 | info@eagleair.is Location: Behind Icelandair Hotel Reykjavík Natura at Reykjavík Airport

& OUTDOOR ADVENTURES

DAY TOURS FROM: REYKJAVÍK SÓLHEIMAJÖKULL SKAFTAFELL OUTDOOR

SUPER

ADVENTURESAD JEEP LKS VENTUR ES GLACIER WA GLACIER WALKS, HIKING AND PRIVATE AFELL KULL & SKAFT SÓLHEIMAJÖ - 18

S 2017 DAY TOUR

& CAVING FROM REYKJAVÍK 2017-18 TOURS FROM REYK JAVÍK 2017 - 18

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MOUNTAINGUIDES.IS • INFO@MOUNTAINGUIDES.IS • TEL: + 354 587 9999

Welcome to Iceland! Whether you’re here for an adventure in Iceland‘s stunning landscape or to enjoy what we consider the world‘s most charming capital, we‘re delighted to have you with us. Sit back, relax and enjoy the free Wi-Fi. Before I tell you a little about our terrific tours let me introduce myself and my team – I’m Björn Ragnarsson, the C.E.O. of Reykjavik Excursions. I‘m proud to lead a company that both honours tradition and drives innovation. In 2018 Reykjavik Excursions is 50 years old. My team and I are busy at work on a number of exciting events we‘d love to share with you as we celebrate our first half century. Please follow us on social media (#reyex) to keep an eye on how you could join in and have fun with us during this special birthday year. Our guides, drivers and planners are honoured to call Iceland home. This means that we love showing our country to you on our carefully crafted tours. We‘ve also taken the time to put things in place to keep Iceland beautiful: achieving the professional accreditation of Vakinn Gold, the highest seal of quality a tourism company in Iceland can have, and obtaining the ISO 14001 international environmental standard, where we created an environmental management system to look after our nature. We strive to lead the way in sustainable touring and so we‘ve a fleet of new buses and fully trained guides who are experienced, enthusiastic and eager to show you Iceland.

My team has put together a range of day tours for you. My favourite thing about them is that you can experience the many faces of Iceland in just a few hours. Our tours can take you to majestic waterfalls that you can actually walk behind – check out Seljalandsfoss. If you’re seeking drama and the raw energy of Iceland, you’ll love Reynisfjara, a black, volcanic beach set between the crashing North Atlantic and breath-taking basalt columns etched into the cliffs. And if you’ve come to Iceland to explore the 11% of the country that’s covered by glaciers, we’ve got a range of tours to take you to these icy giants. We encourage you to explore our many tours, and remember, if you can’t quite find what you’re after we’ve got a dedicated team who can tailor make a tour to dazzle you. Please just ask. Iceland is a wonderful place. We hope you have a fabulous time here, and don’t forget to tell us about your magical adventures on our Trip Advisor site. Stay warm, stay safe and enjoy! Björn Ragnarsson C.E.O. Kynnisferðir/Reykjavik Excursions

But back to these tours!

Published by MD Reykjavik ehf. Laugavegur 3, 101 Reykjavik. Publisher: Sigurþór Marteinn Tel.: 551-3600 Email: info@whatson.is Editor: Gréta Sigríður Einarsdóttir, greta@whatson.is Layout & design: Stefán Birgir Stefáns, sbs@whatson.is Content writers: Gréta Sigríður Einarsdóttir, Geir Finnsson and Jóhann Páll Ástvaldsson Cover photo by Golli Printing: Oddi, Ecolabelled Printing Company Opinions expressed in this magazine are those of the individual authors. While every effort has been made to ensure the information presented is accurate, prices, times, dates and other information may be subject to change.

This magazine is published and distributed in exclusive collaboration with Reykjavik Excursions - a leading tour and coach operator in Iceland.

A rct i c C i rc l e

Killer ca noeing trip Isafjordur

Grimsey

Most beautiful sunset ever

Thorshofn

Vopnafjordur

Akureyri

Egilsstadir

Sa w reindeer (check!)

I C E L A N D Keflavik

REYKJAVIK

Amaz ing Icela nd Expo exhibition at Harpa

Shape your adventure

So you’ve arrived in Iceland. Why not make the most of your time and fly? At our domestic destinations you’ll find all the services you need. Your adventure is only a decision away.

Visit our website www.airicelandconnect.com and make it happen.

60°

The

Golden Circle

Ask any Icelander what you should see while you’re in Iceland and you’ll get the same answer: The Golden Circle! Why the Golden Circle, you ask? Isn’t all of Iceland beautiful, what’s so special about this specific route? I’m glad you asked… The Golden Circle is a 300-km loop of road that usually opens and closes in Reykjavik. It covers three main locations: Þingvellir National Park, the waterfall Gullfoss and the erupting geyser Strokkur in Haukadalur. On the way, you pass all kinds of different landscapes and attractions. The cherry on top is that these magnificent natural wonders are a convenient distance from Reykjavík, so you can be back in the city at a respectable hour after a day of exploring.

Gullfoss

Þingvellir Þingvellir (pronounced Thing-vet-leer) is an amazing location, not just for its natural beauty but for its rich history, reaching all the way back to the Viking age. It’s where the Icelandic parliament was founded in 930 A.D., shortly after the island’s settlement. This Viking government institution was way ahead of its time and its members met every year at Þingvellir for centuries. It was temporarily disbanded in 1799, only to be reconvened some fifty years later, this time in Reykjavík.

Þingvellir

Some major matters in Icelandic history have been settled at Þingvellir. For instance, it was there that the decision was made, in the year 1000 AD, that Icelanders would turn their backs on the old Norse gods and convert to Christianity. Þingvellir is also where Iceland submitted to the Norwegian king in the 13th century and where they declared their independence in 1944. In addition to the area’s historical importance, it’s also quite impressive from a geological point of view. As you might know, Iceland is a volcanic island and sits on the rift between the Eurasian and American tectonic plates. At Þingvellir you can actually see that rift, cracking the ground. This makes for some impressive landscapes, the whole area is covered in cliffs, cracks and fissures, some of them filled with crystal clear water. You can go snorkelling at Þingvellir and even go diving if you have the necessary permits. If you’d rather stay on dry land, simply enjoying the incomparable views is activity enough.

REYKJAVÍK’S EXCURSIONS’ GOLDEN CIRCLE TOURS Golden Circle Direct On this Golden Circle tour, we will experience the thrill of an erupting geyser, one of the country’s most spectacular waterfalls and Iceland’s best-loved national park, all within the space of a few hours. We will visit the high-temperature Geysir geothermal area, the nearby Gullfoss waterfall and Þingvellir National Park, the site of Iceland’s ancient parliament. Come join us on Iceland’s most popular excursion!

Golden Circle & Friðheimar Cultivation Centre The Golden Circle includes a few of Iceland’s most stunning sites; Þingvellir, Gullfoss and Geysir. Additionally, we visit the Friðheimar greenhouse cultivation centre, where we learn about the magic behind growing delicious, pesticide-free tomatoes and cucumbers with the aid of geothermal heat which Iceland has in abundance. Unique food experience!

Golden Circle & Fontana Wellness Geysir

Gullfoss

Geysir

When you are able to tear yourself away from Þingvellir, head on towards Gullfoss, a waterfall in Hvítá. Simply describing Gullfoss as a waterfall might be accurate but in order to do its natural beauty justice, you’re going to need to get more descriptive. Gullfoss is a two-tiered, bellowing stream of water; a constant display of the thundering power that nature can unleash when it gets its act together. The amount of water frothing white over cliffs before it goes roaring down into a deep canyon is almost unbelievable, until you see it with your own eyes.

When you leave Gullfoss, you’ve seen all you need to see of water streaming down, now it’s time to see it shoot straight out of the ground and into the air! Iceland has a few examples of one of nature’s most amazing spectacles – geysers, or erupting hot springs. Geysir is one of the most famous geysers in the world, and the one that gave the phenomenon its name. Unfortunately, due to geological shifts in the earth, it doesn’t erupt regularly anymore, but that doesn’t mean there’s nothing to see.

The best part about Gullfoss is that it’s still relatively unspoilt by humans. There’s just some wooden steps down from the road and a walking path, with a safety rope, up to the spot where the waterfall can best be viewed. This means you have to be careful and watch yourself while you’re there, (don’t cross the ropes! Just don’t do it!) but it also means that you can enjoy the splendour of the unobstructed view, just like nature intended.

Strokkur, Geysir’s neighbour, puts on a show every 6-8 minutes, blowing hot water high into the air. The spectacle is amazing to witness. All around are pools of scorching hot water, some muddy, others clear and yet others bubbling like cauldrons. Icelanders have loved visiting Geysir for a long time, tourists have been able to get coffee and refreshments there since 1928!

This tour combines the very popular Golden Circle tour with a visit to the geothermal baths at Laugarvatn Fontana. At Laugarvatn Fontana, we will get a first-hand experience of how locals use hot springs for baking bread. We will be offered to take a short walk (2 min.) down to the lake shore and observe a rye bread being taken out of a hot spring. Experience the beauty and wellness of Iceland!

Golden Circle & Snowmobiling On this day tour, you will get the adventure of a lifetime - a one-hour snowmobile ride on Iceland’s second largest glacier, Langjökull. Additionally, we will make stops at the stunning Gullfoss waterfall, the high-temperature geothermal area Geysir with its numerous hot springs and Þingvellir National Park. Get up close with some of Iceland’s most stunning natural wonders!

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Nature Tours

Reykjanes

Iceland is a land of contrasts, of ice and fire. It may be a cliché at this point but that doesn’t make it any less true. This volcanic island, just south of the Arctic Circle, has green valleys and jet-black deserts, glacial rivers and hot springs, fields of lava and jagged mountaintops. Situated atop a geological hot spot as well as a rift between the earth’s tectonic plates, Iceland is a constantly evolving country, with volcanic eruptions approximately every four or five years! Exploring Iceland’s extraordinary landscapes is a chance to see something completely different, so what are you waiting for? Waterfalls They say that when you travel in Iceland, you see a lot of water. It comes in many different forms but one of the most striking one is the waterfalls you’ll find all over the mountainous country. The most famous ones (or at least the most photographed ones) are two waterfalls on the south coast of Iceland, flowing over the edge of the Eyjafjöll mountains, Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss. Skógafoss is a thundering white sheet of water flowing straight down to

the plains below but Seljalandsfoss flows over a cliff into the mouth of a wide cave. You can even walk behind the waterfall to see it from the other side. Be careful, you might get wet!

Glaciers Another form of water you can’t miss seeing are the icy glaciers covering about 11% of Iceland’s surface area. Each of Iceland’s glacier has a specific character. There’s the mysterious Snæfellsjökull, for example, which Jules Verne

cast as the opening to the centre of the earth and Langjökull, where you can actually go into the glacier, into a man-made cave at the heart of the glacier’s blue ice. Exploring the surface can be just as enjoyable, going glacier hiking or even snowmobiling! Don’t go onto a glacier without a guide however, they can be dangerous for the inexperienced traveller.

Volcanoes and Lava Fields Iceland has a volcanic eruption approximately 4-5 years. The landscape is constantly evolving and as you travel around Iceland you’ll see everything from rough, black fields of fresh lava to older, greying lava, covered in a thick blanket of grey-green moss. Be careful not to disturb it, the moss might look sturdy but it’s a delicate plant and takes years to recover if it’s torn. You can still see ash from past eruptions in some areas, in black patches on glaciers and as shadows on the icebergs floating on Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon.

NATURE TOURS FROM REYKJAVIK EXCURSIONS South Shore Adventure We drive along the south coast of Iceland, one of the country’s most scenic regions. Along the way we stop at the gorgeous Seljalandsfoss waterfall, which is unique in that you can walk behind it. We also stop at the majestic Skógafoss waterfall and visit the Skógar Folk Museum. Other highlights include the stunning Mýrdalsjökull glacier and the black sand coastline near Vík. A full day of awe-inspiring sights!

Wonders of Reykjanes

Raufarhólshellir

Geothermal areas and geysers Even when there aren’t any active eruptions in Iceland, the heat that continuously boils underground is visible on the earth’s surface. The geothermal force is evident in bubbling pools of mud, still and clear blue pools of water at boiling temperatures, and mud in every colour of the rainbow, from blue to red and yellow. One of the most popular destinations in

Iceland is the geothermal area around Geysir, the original erupting hot spring that gave its name to the phenomenon in the English language. While Geysir doesn’t erupt anymore, there’s another geyser just a few metres away, Strokkur, which erupts with an impressive force every 6-8 minutes.

Black beaches Much like Björk, Iceland always has to do things a little bit differently than others. In Iceland, the beaches aren’t a soft golden colour, they’re jet black! The colour comes from the fact that the sand consists of ground up particles of the volcanic basalt that makes up the base of Iceland. The black beaches can make for some dramatic photos, but be careful, another thing that separates the Icelandic beaches from their southern counterparts is that they can be quite dangerous if you get to close to the water. Beaches like Reynisfjara often have dangerous sneaker waves, powerful waves that can pull people into the water if they get to close.

Caves

Reykjanes

You haven’t really explored Iceland if you’ve just stayed on the surface. To really get in touch with the bedrock of Iceland, go underground! The young (in geological estimates) country is cut through with caves and underground tunnels, which, at some point in history, were filled with liquid lava! The caves stretch far underground, going from tight spaces to airy underground halls along the way.

Get a little bit of everything Icelandic on this tour which includes two geothermal sites (Krýsuvík and Gunnuhver), dramatic coastlines and a quaint, historic town. At the end of the tour, it is possible for those who have a prebooked ticket, to have a soak in the Blue Lagoon. Otherworldly landscapes!

Wonders of Snæfellsnes The Snæfellsnes peninsula in West Iceland is almost a miniature version of the island. In addition to its characteristic Snæfellsjökull glacier, there are black sandy beaches, bird cliffs, spectacular mountains and volcanic craters. On this tour, we will for example stop at the small fishing village Arnarstapi, the ancient fishing village Hellnar, visit Djúpalónssandur beach and the iconic Kirkjufell mountain. Experience the magic of Snæfellsnes!

Landmannalaugar & Saga Valley This unique part of the highlands is one of Iceland’s most awe-inspiring places. Among its main characteristics are the colourful rhyolite mountains with their varying textures, shapes and sizes, and the wonderful natural hot springs, perfect for soaking in after a day of hiking. En route there we drive through Þjórsárdalur valley, with its stunningly diverse and colourful landscapes, and visit a reconstructed medieval farmhouse. A paradise for hikers!

BOOK NOW AT WWW.RE.IS

Unleash Iceland Reykjavík Excursions has partnered with TripAdvisor, the world’s largest travel site, to introduce and unleash the best of Iceland! Iceland is not only rich in natural wonders such as waterfalls, volcanoes and caves, but also has a unique culture, language and history. Each of these traits come together to make your trip to Iceland an experience you’ll never forget. To celebrate this venture, Reykjavík Excursions and TripAdvisor held a raffle and the winners would receive an unforgettable free trip to Iceland. The lucky couple were travelling enthusiasts Martine Rodin and Alexis Nicolas Laurent, from Norway and France, and they were thrilled to visit Iceland for the first time. The best of Iceland On their first day, the pair got to experience the Unleash Iceland tour, which began with a dive into Raufarhólshellir tunnel, a 5,000 year old volcano. Once they were deep inside, all lights were shut and a violinist played beautiful Icelandic music for them. Upon arriving back to the surface, they were treated to gourmet food in the Hveragerði Skyr Factory, as well as learning about the production of the Icelandic dairy product, which has been made since the settlement period.

Natural wonders Their second day went into more sightseeing, going up close to the beautiful waterfalls of

Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss, as well as walking across the black sands of Reynisfjara shore and going up close to Sólheimajökull glacier. The sightseeing day ended with a romantic dinner at the Lava Centre in Hvolsvöllur, with a mock-up of the mantle plume beneath Iceland serving as candlelights. The day ended in a fully set-up tent in Þórsmörk mountain ridge.

Iceland from above Upon waking up, the pair was picked up by a helicopter that flew them across the country highlands. After a refreshing view of glaciers and mountains, they were brought to the ON - Power geothermal plant in Hellisheiði to learn about

the renewable energy that powers and heats Icelandic homes (if you want to know more, head to page 72). From there, they were brought to the Reykjanes peninsula, which shows the split between the North-American and Eurasian tectonic plates. During the trip, they were greeted by two Vikings who staged a fight and gave them a sip of ale from a ram’s horn. It doesn’t get much more Icelandic than this. The day ended with a nice spa treatment at the Blue Lagoon and a three-course meal at the LAVA restaurant. “This was the most fun trip we’ve ever been to,” Alexis said. “Iceland is a stunning country and the people too!” The pair is already set on returning soon.

The Unleash Iceland Tour! If you want to experience the highlights of Marine and Alexis’ trip, check out the Unleash Iceland Tour. Dive into a volcano, try out traditional Icelandic cuisine and gaze up at the colourful Northern Lights.

Dive Inside Iceland - The Lava Tunnel in Hellisheiði Raufarhólshellir is a remnant of a once active volcano. Brimming with stunning colours due to different oxidation, the 30 metre wide and 10 metre high walls give you a clear look at the formation of the ground you stand on.

A Taste of Iceland - Skyrgerðin Next you head to the famous Skyrgerðin (Skyr plant), known for producing the nation’s famous dairy product. The facility is among the nation’s oldest, preserving its original look while serving as a restaurant and hotel. Be sure to try the brand-new and exclusive TripAdvisor Skyr drink made just for you!

Above Iceland - The Northern Lights You can’t leave Iceland without at least glimpsing the green and purple wonder that is the northern lights. Did you know that they’re only visible in the high northern- and southern latitudes of the planet? Luckily, that includes Iceland, so you won’t have to travel all the way to the North Pole unless you’re looking for Santa.

Have an Adventure in Iceland

Raufarhólshellir

If watching Iceland’s stunning nature from a bus window isn’t enough for you, you always have a choice to take a more active approach to exploring Iceland. Iceland’s unique landscapes and out-of-this-world nature are the perfect venues for the adventure of a lifetime, whether you feel like driving in a modified jeep to places inaccessible to the rest of the population, riding in an open vehicle like an ATV or a snowmobile, or hiking on your own two feet to places no vehicles can reach. Super Jeeps Iceland is not really a small country even though the population is small. One of the most sparsely populated countries in the world, Iceland’s population mostly resides around the coastline, as the mountainous highlands in the centre of the country are uninhabitable. The landscapes in this inhospitable wilderness are some of the most magnificent you’ll ever witness but the gravel roads leading there are usually extremely rough, sometimes even requiring you to ford rivers. If you want to see these natural wonders with your own eyes (and you do, trust me), no ordinary city car is going to survive the trip. The only way is to take a tour in 12

a modified 4x4 jeep that can handle the roads and get you where you want to go.

ATV’s You don’t always have to go farther or to an unknown location to get to know a different side of Iceland. Sometimes just changing your mode of transportation is enough to get a whole new experience. Sitting in a car is one thing but feeling the air rush around your head as you zoom across a black sand desert on an ATV is a whole other thing.

Glaciers About 11 % of Iceland’s surface is covered with glaciers. We also have the largest ice cap in Europe, Vatnajökull.

REYKJAVÍK’S EXCURSIONS’ ADVENTURE TOURS Langjökull Ice Cave Experience – Into the Glacier Visit a unique and remote man-made ice cave in Langjökull glacier. We begin the tour by driving to Húsafell with stops at Deildartunguhver, the beautiful Hraunfossar and Barnafoss waterfalls. After a lunch break in Húsafell (not included), we head on up to Langjökull, almost to the top of the glacier, where we enter the magnificent cave. Imagine standing on an ice cap reaching 200 metres below your feet!

Take a Walk on the Ice Side

Jökulsárlón

Only a few-hours drive away from Reykjavík is Eyjafjallajökull glacier, and just a little further the Sólheimajökull glacier tongue extends down from Mýrdalsjökull. We take a walk on crampons up on to the ice field. We will provide and teach you how to use basic glacier equipment but ice climbing is not included. On the way back there’s a stop at the striking waterfalls, Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss. Challenges and thrills!

Lava Cave and Geothermal Adventure

Super Jeep

From afar, these glaciers look like solid fields of white ice but as you get closer, you see the texture of the ice, sometimes cut through with crevasses, or streaked black with ash from a recent volcanic eruption. Visiting these glaciers is an experience unlike any other and going hiking on a glacier is highly recommended. Just be sure to travel with an experienced glacier guide, the glaciers can be dangerous for the uninitiated. If hiking on a glacier isn’t fast enough for you, you can always go snowmobiling. Whooshing acroass the white blanket of snow is an amazing feeling and the view is incomparable. It’s the perfect chance for a selfie to make people believe you really visited ICE-land.

Inside a glacier

Finally, you don’t have to stick to just exploring the surface of the glacier. You can also travel into the glacier! At the heart of the Langjökull glacier, the part where the ice is the thickest, you can climb into a man-made ice cave and explore the glacier from the inside.

Caving You don’t have to limit your explorations to the earth’s surface. Iceland’s unique geology has resulted in some interesting phenomena, such as the lava tube cave. These long and winding caves stretch far underground because at one point, liquid lava flowed through the tunnels. Now empty, the lava tubes are incredible places to explore due to the impressive rock formations you’ll come across.

On this tour, we will visit Iceland’s largest natural lava cave. The stunning Víðgelmir cave (148000m 3 ) is one of the largest natural lava caves in the world. There we start an adventurous and guided walk down the great, colourful and beautiful lava cave. Following the cave adventure, we relax at the geothermal pool at Húsafell. A family friendly adventure!

Lava Tunnel - Caving in Raufarhólshellir On this brand-new tour, we visit the lava tunnel Raufarhólshellir located only 30 minutes from Reykjavík. We will witness the inner workings of a volcanic eruption while we walk in the path of a lava that flowed thousands of years ago. The lava tunnel is one of the biggest in Iceland and gets up to 30 metres wide and 10 metres high. Challenge your senses!

BOOK NOW AT WWW.RE.IS 13

Steikhúsið simply means “The Steak House” and that underlines our goal, to focus solely on steaks. Steikhúsið is in the middle of Reykjavík, opposite the old harbour, which has recently formed into a lively neighbourhood of restaurants, cafés, artisan stores and work shops. When you visit us, remember to try our “28-day” tendered meat. The heart of the place is a coal oven from Mibrasa, Spain. It is only fitting that we use coal for grilling and baking, since the building housed a blacksmith and metal works in years gone by. THE KITCHEN IS OPEN FROM 17:00 ‘TILL LATE — VISIT WWW.STEAK.IS

: Booking +354 561 1111 & steik@steik.is

A Natural Luxury

Bathing in Icelandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s geothermal heat

Laugarvatn Fontana

Living on a rocky volcanic island just south of the Arctic Circle might not sound like everyoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cup of tea but it does have its perks. While we must be prepared for a volcanic eruption or an earthquake every now and then, most of the time the geothermal heat just bubbles quietly underneath the surface and can be quite useful. Icelanders have learnt to harness the geothermal heat and today, we rely on it for many purposes; to keep our homes at the perfect temperature the whole year round, to create electricity, and most importantly - to bathe in. For centuries, Icelanders have been taking advantage of the fact that they live in a country where warm water springs from the ground. For the lucky landowners with access to it, not only was laundry a far easier and costeffective process but bathing and relaxing in hot water also proved invaluable. There are records of hot spring baths dating back to the Viking age! Snorri Sturluson, a 13th-century politician and scholar who documented the stories of the Norse gods for future generations, had his very own hot tub, which still exists to this day. Bathing in geothermal water is not just a thing of the past. To this day, every town in Iceland has a public swimming pool with geothermally heated water, where the locals gather to mingle and chat about everything and nothing in the hot tubs. The swimming pools are a

great place to witness the equality of Icelandic society. Everyone goes to the pool, no matter their age or social standing. The atmosphere is welcoming and on any given day you can find the mayor of ReykjavĂk sitting in the hot tub chatting to a blue-collar worker, senior citizens swimming in the same lanes as athletic youths and teenagers discussing urgent matters of life and love in the wading pool while toddlers run and splash around them. Aside from the public pools, there are a few places in Iceland where you can experience the luxury of the geothermal water in natural surroundings. By visiting the source of the hot water instead of having it pumped to you, you get to witness the energy of the Icelandic landscape in its natural state. The geothermal areas where the hot springs can be found

showcase the power of the geothermal heat. Surrounded by black lava, tiny pools of bubbling water too hot to touch, or other reminders of the immense energy hidden underneath Iceland, the stark landscapes are a contrast to the luxurious pleasures of the spa.

Blue Lagoon

Laugarvatn Fontana

Secret Lagoon

Blue Lagoon

The Blue Lagoon

Laugarvatn Fontana

The Secret Lagoon

Blue Lagoon is the result of a lucky accident, the by-product of using geothermal heat to produce electricity. The characteristic milky blue water is groundwater pumped up from the depths of the earth and mixed with cold seawater to reach the perfect bathing temperature. There are no chemical cleaners in the water, it relies instead on fresh water flowing in constantly. All the water in the lagoon is gradually replaced every 48 hours.

The Laugarvatn Fontana Spa is located on the Golden Circle, Iceland’s most popular tourist route. The whole area is rich in geothermal heat, the most spectacular example of which is the Geysir geothermal area, where Strokkur erupts hot water high into the air. The warm water at Laugarvatn has been used for bathing for centuries and the natural steam baths featuring steam rising directly from the hot spring.

The Secret Lagoon is one of the oldest swimming pools in Iceland, recently renovated. The renovations are discreet, with the ruins of the old bathhouse left standing, so visitors can enjoy all modern comforts but still feel like they went back in time for about a century. In between bouts of soaking in the geothermal water, take a walk around the pool, enjoying the view of the surrounding hot springs, some bubbling, some still, and yet others erupting every now and then.

WELLNESS TOURS FROM REYKJAVIK EXCURSIONS Fontana Wellness Geothermal Baths Bathe in the refreshing natural baths of Laugarvatn Fontana while taking in the stunning views of the surrounding mountains and lake Laugarvatn. Enjoy four different hot pools, three steam rooms with varying temperatures and a traditional sauna. You can cool off in between by running across the black sand beach into Laugarvatn lake. Pamper yourself!

The Blue Lagoon

Golden Circle & Fontana Wellness

Make your Iceland adventure even better by bathing in the world famous Blue Lagoon.

With Reykjavik Excursions you can travel to the Blue Lagoon when arriving or departing through Keflavík International Airport, from your Reykjavík accommodation or in combination with selected day tours. Swimsuits and towels can be rented or bought on the spot. Relax and enjoy.

BOOK NOW AT WWW.RE.IS 16

Experience the beauty and wellness of Iceland!

Christmas Traditions Christmas in Iceland is a most welcome reprieve from the perennial dark for locals. Visitors will find that many of the Icelandic Christmas traditions are amusing and often quite unusual. Where to start? There’s the Christmas cat, a lot of great food, a little bit of truly bad food, way too many fireworks, bonfires, a book flood, and an endless amount of Santa Clauses (we call them Yule Lads). The city comes alive at Christmastime and walking around downtown you are bound to run into some Christmas music, quirky Christmas characters, and a healthy dose of holiday cheer. Welcome to Christmastime in Iceland!

Christmas with the lads The Yule Lads are Iceland’s version of Santa Claus and we have thirteen of them! More santas equals more gifts, right? Icelandic kids get a little treat from each of them when they come into town from the mountains, from December 12th until Christmas Eve. In older folklore, they used to be mischievous tricksters but nowadays they leave the gifts in children’s shoes (if they behave well… act out and they’ve got a potato coming their way!) The main feast takes place on Christmas Eve at precisely six o’clock. Parents beware though, as the Christmas Cat will eat the children if they receive no new clothing before Christmas. It’s one of the weirder Christmas lore out there but most people just make sure to be wearing at least a fresh pair of socks to stay out of the Christmas kitty’s maw.

REYKJAVÍK’S EXCURSIONS’ CHRISTMAS TOURS Reykjavík Christmas Walk This cultural and gastronomic walking tour of Reykjavík is a wonderful alternative to your traditional city sightseeing tour and will get you into a true Christmas mood. During our Reykjavík Christmas Walk, we offer you a unique insight into our Christmas traditions old and new while telling you about the history, art and architecture, culture, and cuisine of the city. Discover downtown Reykjavík during Christmas time

Golden Circle & Reykjavík Christmas Walk Join us for a wonderful alternative Reykjavík Christmas tour followed by the amazing Golden Circle. On this tour, you will get a unique insight into Iceland’s Christmas traditions, bot hold and new.

Food, glorious food.

New year, old us

The Christmas meal is the most special meal of the year, and it has historical connotations. Not many decades have passed since Iceland was a poor country where feasts were few and far between. Hangikjöt (smoked lamb) was the traditional Christmas meal while rjúpa (ptarmigan) was a treat for the poorer folk. Today it’s considered a delicacy, as you have to catch your own or make a deal with a hunter if you want some. In addition, some holiday tables feature staples such as reindeer, turkey, and hamborgarhryggur (glazed rack of ham). Accompanying this is jólaöl (Christmas ale) - a glorious drink made by mixing together orange-flavoured Appelsín and malt-flavoured Malt, a couple of sodas produced in Iceland.

Gamlárskvöld (Literal translation: old-yearevening) in Iceland is a spectacle to behold. We Icelanders go crazy as we blow up over 600 tonnes of fireworks each year, which look spectacular coupled with the blacked-out sky and snowy ground. Before that, the whole nation sits in front of a TV screen. Everyone tunes in to Áramótaskaupið, a ‘roast’-style comedy show where the events of the past year are remembered a humorous light. It was watched by 72.4% of the nation last year, so try and get yourself in front of a TV before midnight. You (probably) won’t understand anything but at least you can say you partook in this cultural curiosity. Make sure to head out for the New Year’s bonfires all over town (it’s going to be cold…). New Year’s Eve is, of course, the party night of the year, so grab some Icelandic beer or a bottle of Brennivín (black death) and head into town!

Let’s get cultural December in Iceland is best experienced by going all-in, so we encourage you to get a taste of the culture. The annual Christmas Book Flood will hit Reykjavík this December as it does every year, as books are one of the most popular Christmas presents in the country. Authors and publishers race to publish the most exciting books of the year during the December season so get a book to enjoy if you really want to experience an Icelandic Christmas (best enjoyed snuggling with a cup of hot cocoa, of course). Also, take time to drop in for Christmas concerts which Icelanders flock to each year. For many, they are as big as part of Christmas as Christmas Ale itself.

At the end of the walk, you will be picked up for the Golden Circle part of the tour, where you will visit Þingvellir National Park, Gullfoss Waterfall and Geysir geothermal area Get in a Christmas mood inside and outside the city landmarks!

Bonfire Tour New Year’s Eve in Reykjavík is celebrated with fireworks and bonfires. The locals gather around the bonfires that are dispersed all over the city, celebrating and singing. Reykjavík Excursions offer a great tour that allows you to experience this celebration. A spectacular sight not to be missed when in Iceland! Reykjavík Excursions wish you all a happy New Year!

Magic & Mystery at New Year Join us on a tour with a local guide to explore the special traditions and strange Icelandic flolklore connected to the magical New Year’s Eve. On this tour, you willcheck out the fireworks sles organised by the Icelandic Rescue Teams but every year, Icelanders blow up 600 tonnes of fireworks. You will also visit the old cemetary of Reykjavík and visit a place the Icelandic elves are rumoured to inhabit. At the end of the tour, a small bonfire will be lit and you say farewell to the passing year in a traditional Icelandic way, with a bang! Say farewell to the year with a bang!

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The Magic of the Northern Lights!

Imagine standing outside in a wintery landscape, snow crackling underneath your feet, the stars and moon lighting up the mountains all around you just enough to create dark shadows on the cliffs. But the moonlight and stars aren’t the only things brightening up the night sky. High above you flutter rippling green ribbons of light, an otherworldly twinkle of lights, dancing across the night sky. These are the magnificent natural phenomenon of the northern lights.

Celestial lights

The allure of science

Named after the Roman goddess of the dawn, Aurora, and the Greek name for the north wind, Boreas, the northern lights have always had a touch of the mystical about them in the minds of men. In other cultures living far enough north to see the lights, the northern lights have been thought to be spirits dancing, or signs from a god. In Iceland, the aurorae were thought to predict coming weather patterns. Standing beneath the lights, it’s easy to see why people would be superstitious but like so many other miracles of nature, the northern lights have been, at least partly, scientifically explained.

In some cases, a scientific explanation erodes some of nature’s charm. As soon as you realise that birdsong is nothing more than aggressive mating calls, for example, it puts things in another perspective. With the northern lights, however, the scientific explanation really only adds another layer of magnificence to the natural phenomenon. The impressive display of lights is caused when solar storms release particles which, when they reach the earth’s atmosphere, burn up. The colours of the lights depend on how close to the earth the

REYKJAVÍK’S EXCURSIONS’ NORTHERN LIGHTS TOURS Warm Baths and Cool Lights This tour includes relaxation, local culinary experience, and a northern lights hunt. We drive via the UNESCO site Þingvellir National Park towards Laugarvatn Fontana, where we nourish body and soul by bathing in the geothermal baths. Before bathing, we get to fill up our energy with delights from the local style dinner buffet. After our soak, we go on a search for the northern lights en route to Reykjavík. The Northern lights are a natural phenomenon and sightings are not guaranteed. Nourish Your Body and Soul!

Northern Lights Tour There is nothing more breath-taking than seeing the northern lights dancing around the sky. The Northern lights are caused by the interaction of particles from the sun with the upper atmosphere near the North Pole. That creates this wonderful light effect, known as the aurora borealis. particles get before they are burnt out and it only happens around the earth’s poles because of the earth’s magnetic fields. If that isn’t some impressive science, I don’t know what is!

A natural phenomenon So, the good news is that the northern lights are an impressive sight and if you’re in Iceland during the winter, you have a chance to see them. The bad news is that the aurora isn’t a reliable attraction. The northern lights are a natural wonder, meaning they don’t exactly bend to the rules of man. Their brightness and intensity depend on solar storms and they burn up high in the atmosphere, much higher than the clouds, so cloudy skies = no visible northern lights. Also, the lights are relatively dim, compared to other lights that appear in the sky. That’s the reason you can’t see them in the daylight (and of course, Iceland’s midnight sun is the reason you can’t see them in the summer). The glow from the city lights can also interrupt your perfect northern lights evening so getting out of the city is vital!

How to see the northern lights Okay, so this may be starting to sound a little hopeless but don’t worry, the perfect conditions come together more often than you think. A great tool in the hunt for the northern lights is the Iceland Met Office aurora forecast (check out p. 68). It’s published online at www. en.vedur.is/weather/forecasts/aurora and will show you (roughly, it’s not an exact science) how likely it is you’re going to see the lights.

Take a tour The easiest way to get out of the city to see the northern lights is simply to take a tour. Reykjavík Excursions has an extensive experience in light guiding, knowing exactly where and when to look for the impressive Northern lights. They’re also willing and able to share with you their extensive knowledge of this magnificent phenomenon. These guys will ensure your sighting chances are maximised.

The northern lights are a spectacular natural phenomenon, often seen dancing around in fantastic colours across the Icelandic Arctic sky. The locations visited differ from tour to tour since we go wherever it is most likely to see the northern lights. A Sight Not to be Missed!

Northern Lights by Boat Hunting the northern lights from the ocean is an amazing experience. Sailing away from the coastline of Reykjavik and seeing the aurora borealis out on the North Atlantic Ocean with beautiful mountains and the city lights in the background is something you won’t forget. In only 15-30 minutes, we will be in a prime location for viewing the lights. Sail Away into a Magical World!

HAPPY HUNTING!

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Rent a Car

Around two thirds of Icelanders live in Reykjavík or the surrounding area and the rest of the country is sparsely populated – mostly wilderness with patches of farmland and a small town or a fishing village here and there. Exploring the Icelandic countryside is an adventure all on its own, with spectacular landscapes everywhere you look. If you have the time, renting a car and driving around Iceland is an experience you’ll never forget. Where to go

waterfalls tumbling over the edges.

One of the most popular destinations in Iceland is the south coast of Iceland. Not only are there beautiful natural wonders every few kilometres, the landscape is also varied and diverse. Black beaches meet verdant farmlands, volcanoes slumber underneath caps of glaciers and tall mountains cut off abruptly by flat coastal areas,

If you want to drive the road less travelled, consider visiting the Snæfellsnes peninsula on the west coast of Iceland. The area is like a microcosm of Iceland’s nature, with lava fields, black sand beaches, picturesque fishing villages and the Snæfellsjökull glacier watching over it all. Not only does the glacier play a part in

Seljalandsfoss

Reykjanes

world literature, as Jules Verne’s opening into the centre of the earth and the titular glacier in Halldór Laxness’s Under the Glacier, it’s also been rumoured to be a favoured landing spots for aliens! Even closer to Reykjavík is the Reykjanes peninsula. You’ve already seen parts of it, as the Keflavík international airport is situated at the tip of the peninsula, but there’s plenty more to it than the road from the airport. Rough lava fields, beautiful lakes, and geothermal areas with bubbling cauldrons of mud and water are well worth the drive! If you have the time (at least 4-5 days), you can drive the whole way around the country, discovering its many secrets and wonders along the way. Route 1, or the Ring Road, is a 1332 km (828 miles) looped road connecting most of the inhabited parts of Iceland. It roughly follows the coastline of Iceland, since most people in Iceland live within a short distance from the ocean the bit in the middle is mostly mountainous wilderness.

Do’s and Don’ts while driving in Iceland Do make a road trip playlist. Extra points for including Icelandic music! Don’t stop or slow down on the road to take photos. Most roads with great views have intermittent scenic stops. In their absence, Akureyri

you should still find a safe place to park before you picking up the camera. Do stop along the way,

Where to Stay Akureyri is the largest town in Iceland outside the Reykjavík area, with a population of just over 18.000. Attractions include a picturesque historical centre, an impressive art museum, a lively town centre with shops and cafés, and in winter, the best ski resort in Iceland. The surrounding area is beautiful, the lovely fishing villages of the Eyjafjörður coastline as well as the natural wonder that is the Lake Mývatn area. Ísafjörður is the largest town in the Westfjords, the oldest and most sparsely populated part of Iceland. The landscapes on the way there and surrounding the town itself are incredible. Since there is so much space between human dwellings in this area, you often feel like the only

person in the whole world. The local culture is unique since the Westfjords have always been a remote area, even by Icelandic standards, and the area surrounding Ísafjörður is a hiker’s paradise.

sometimes the unexpected

Stykkishólmur was home to affluent Danish merchants in the past and the charming town centre is reminiscent of that time. Situated on the north coast of the Snæfellsnes peninsula, Stykkishólmur looks over the many islands and rocks of the Breiðafjörður fjord. Taking a cruise out among the islands is a lovely way to spend the day, as is visiting the many interesting museums in town. Don’t forget to drive out to the Snæfellsnes peninsula, exploring the tiny villages along the way.

interesting things ahead!

detours can be a highlight of the trip. Look for the square with the looped corners, indicating

Don’t forget to consult the weather forecast. The weather is fickle and can change suddenly. Do consider exploring one area instead of driving all over the country if you’re short on time. If you’re just here for a few days, you don’t want to spend all your time in the car.

ENTERPRISE RENT-A-CAR Enterprise Rent-A-Car, one of the largest car rental companies in the world, joined forces with Reykjavik Excursions in 2014. The partnership was formed because of their shared belief in customer care, value and outstanding service in the ever-expanding Icelandic travel network. For over 45 years, Reykjavik Excursions has proudly served travellers keen on exploring Iceland. They offer their customers a chance to explore Iceland safely and economically on their own terms. Iceland has a reputation for being an exciting alternative destination for travellers looking for a different experience. Renting an Enterprise car allows visitors to explore our beautiful country at their own pace. The office is located at the BSÍ Bus Terminal in Reykjavík. Meet & greet service available at Keflavík International Airport.

Why choose Enterprise? • Only the newest car models in all categories. • Competitive prices. • Unlimited mileage. • Free hotel pick-up within Reykavík city limits. • 2 Flybus+ return tickets included with every rental. • 24/7 breakdown service. The rental offices are located at the BSÍ Bus Terminal in Reykjavík and at the Keflavík International Airport.

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ICELANDIC SEAFOOD makes world’s best sushi The best of Icelandic produce with a nod to Japan and South America. Modern Icelandic flavours, share plates and award winning cocktails. Our kitchen is open 17.00–23.00 sun.–thu. 17.00–24.00 fri.–sat.

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A Journey to the Center of the Earth and more The wonders of Snæfellsnes Peninsula If you only visit one part of Iceland outside Reykjavík, make it Snæfellsnes! The area is a microcosm of Iceland, easily reachable in a convenient Reykjavik Excursions day trip from Reykjavík. Prepare for majestic mountain views, black-sand beaches, a volcano and glacier rolled into one (a Volclacier? A Glaciano?) and, scattered around the scenery, quaint little towns full of stories. Snæfellsjökull - The entrance to the centre of the earth The reigning king of Snæfellsnes landmarks is without a doubt Snæfellsjökull glacier, sitting atop an active volcano on the tip of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. The volcano is 700.000 years old and has erupted about 20 times since the last ice age. In his book, A Journey to the Centre of the Earth, Jules Verne used Snæfellsjökull as the point of entry through which Lidenbrock and his team start their journey. Closer to home, the glacier is also the backdrop and titular glacier in Nobel laureate Halldór Laxness’s Under the Glacier. The area surrounding the glacier is a national park, where, among other things, you will find Djúpalónssandur beach, where you can test your strength with the three rocks, Strong, Full-Strong and Half-Strong. These were used by sailors of ages past to compete in strength. The heaviest one is 154 kg! (339 pounds!)

Arnarstapi Arnarstapi is a partially abandoned fishing village, which comes to life in the summertime, with fishermen sailing from the harbour and people spending their summers in local cottages. It has a camp ground, an inn, and a restaurant. You can hike around the surrounding area and enjoy the view of the 26

mind-blowing rock formations of the coastlines from the observation deck to which the RE tour will take you.

Stykkishólmur Stykkishólmur is a picturesque and beautiful fishing town with only 1100 inhabitants, although that number doubles in the summertime, with all the fishermen and tourists. It serves as the centre of transportation for the area - it’s where you catch the ferry for Flatey Island and Brjánslækur in the Westfjords. The picturesque town has wooden houses from the 19th and early 20th century, the oldest of which is the Norwegian House, built in 1832, which now houses the local folk museum. Stykkishólmur also has a volcano museum and a swimming pool, among other attractions. We’ve only counted a few of the Snæfellsnes area’s attractions, not even mentioning the scattered little farms, the area’s rich history (the peninsula was where the Book of the Icelanders, one of the main historical sources of Iceland was written, as well as being the setting of the ancient Laxdæla), the magnificent Gerðuberg basalt columns, and mountains like Helgafell and Hólahólar (the Hill-hills). To learn more, book a trip and see for yourself! Tours of the whole area and all the sights are available through Reykjavik Excursions.

Reykjavik Excursions BSI Bus Terminal, Vatnsmyrarvegur 10, 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 564 4776 www.re.is

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Snapshots from Reykjavik Excursions Tours

Reynisdrangar More on p. 7-8.

Blue Lagoon More on p. 15-16.

Northern Lights More on p. 20-21.

Gunnuhver More on p. 23-24.

Geysir More on p. 4-5.

Jรถkulsรกrlรณn More on p. 7-8.

On a glacier More on p. 7-8.

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The History of Iceland in 10 Short Steps

16-18 Million years ago: The formation of Iceland Iceland lies on the intersection of the American and Eurasian tectonic plates. When they started drifting apart, around 16 million years ago, it caused a major volcanic eruption, resulting in the creation of Iceland! Even today, the island still sits on a volcanic hotspot, creatively named, ‘The Iceland Plume’ resulting in a multitude of earthquakes every year and volcanic eruptions every few years as well.

871 AD: The settlement of Iceland A Norwegian named Ingólfur Arnarsson killed a man and was exiled from his home country. He sailed to a legendary land in the west with two ships. People from the Nordics engaged in a massive land grab in this uninhabited country, taking with them Irish slaves, resulting in a Norse-Celtic mix of genes in Iceland. Thanks to the almost obsessive fixation of early Icelanders with genealogy, most modern Icelanders can still trace their family lines back to this time. As a matter of fact, Icelanders can look up their entire family history on a single website, and they even have an app called Íslendingabók that makes sure they don’t date their (close) relatives.

930 AD: Parliament established Being a land of renegades and runaways with no king, some system of government had to be instituted. The people of Iceland went ahead and created Alþing (all-thing-ee), the oldest democratic parliament that still exists today. In each area there was a chieftain (Goði), a political and religious leader. Every summer, all the chieftains would meet at Þingvellir (Parliament Fields) to discuss laws and settle disputes. Every year, the law speaker, standing on top of the Law Rock, would say a third of the law, completely from memory. This way, the whole law was heard every three years. The law was later written down in the book Grágás, which still exists today. Contained therein are practical laws, such as the penalty for your pet polar bear killing someone.

Iceland is a proud nation with a rich history. From the world’s oldest democratic parliament, to an economic crash of unprecedented size, Icelanders have a lot to boast about, and they‘re usually not shy to do so. Here we present, for the first time ever, the complete, not-really-unabridged History of Iceland, in just 10 short items. This is your unique chance to read up on major events in the history of Iceland, without having to sift through thousands of pages. Now, let‘s start at the very beginning.

The parliament functions to this day, uninterrupted aside from a period of 45 years from 1800 to 1845.

1000 AD: Conversion to christianity, discovery of America Until the tenth century, the predominant religion in Iceland was Ásatrú, the worship of the Norse gods, Óðinn, Þór and the like. In the 980’s Christian missionaries started spreading the faith, leading to violent confrontations. The two factions asked Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði Þorkelsson to

mediate. He lay under a bear hide for a day and a night eventually coming to the conclusion that Iceland should be a Christian country. However, worshipping the old gods was allowed as long as you didn’t do it in public! Iceland remained Roman Catholic until 1540, when it converted to Lutheran Protestantism. The Catholic bishops Jón Arason and Ögmundur Pálsson violently opposed the reformation. That opposition came to an abrupt end with the beheading of Jón Arason in 1550. The year 1000 is also when Leif ‘The Lucky’ Ericson discovered America, or ‘Wine-land’ as he called it. He was planning on sailing to Greenland, but was blown off course to the west, where he saw land. He later sailed there and attempted to settle, but gave it up after conflicts with the locals. These and other stories are written down in the sagas of the Icelanders, an extensive body of 13th century writings.

1262 AD: Iceland submits to Norway In the years leading up to 1262, the Icelandic chieftains gradually became more and more powerful, until the whole country was in a state of constant civil war between 7 powerful clans. In order to end to the war, the leaders submitted

peacefully to Haakon IV, king of Norway. The story is preserved in saga of the Sturlungs, written down as the events were taking place or shortly after. Later, in the 14th century, the Kingdoms of Norway, Denmark and Sweden became one kingdom, and when they split up again Iceland somehow wound up under Danish rule. Even today Icelanders are confused and even a little sore about the whole situation.

1602: Monopoly (not the fun kind) In the 1500s, English and German fishermen and traders set up posts in Iceland and traded with the Icelanders. Seeing a mutually beneficial situation which brought prosperity to his subjects, Christian IV King of Denmark naturally decided he wasn’t having it. He granted exclusive rights to trade in Iceland to certain merchants. It is hard to overstate how devastating this decision was. The prices were fixed and the system led to economic stagnation in Iceland until the monopoly was abolished in 1786.

The 1750s: The enlightenment and the birth of Reykjavík Until the middle of the 1750s, Reykjavík was just a single farm, and Iceland had no towns or villages of any kind. Sheriff Skúli Magnússon was a man of the enlightenment. He picked Reykjavík to become the centre of modernization, and pioneered the building of wool workshop buildings, one of which still stands, on Aðalstræti 10. This marked the beginning of Iceland’s rise out of the dark ages.

1845 AD: The re-establishment of the parliament and the independence movement The enlightenment came to Iceland, and with it, nationalism. Chief among the Icelandic independence campaigners was Jón Sigurðsson, whose birthday, June 17th, was later chosen as 34

the Icelandic Independence day. The movement led to the re-establishment of the Icelandic parliament as an advisory body to the king in 1845. This was followed by home rule in 1905, sovereignty in 1918 and independence in 1944, when Denmark was too busy being invaded by Germany to do much about it.

20th Century: The world wars and modernization Industry and urbanization was growing, but Iceland had quite a lot of catching up to do. 1900-1910 saw such novelties as electricity, the first car and the first trawler, which marked the beginning of the still-important fishing industry. In the world wars, selling products to the allies and servicing the American occupying force brought an economic boom and cultural influence, such as TV and jazz. This catapulted Iceland into the 20th century and still today the Icelandic culture has an incredible fascination for new and foreign things, technology and culture.

21st century: Crash and miraculous recovery Since the 1950s, Iceland’s economy was characterized by rather high inflation. In the late 1990s, the commercial banking system was privatized and the law was changed to ease restrictions on trade. Following an incredible growth in everything financial, the bubble finally burst in a spectacular manner, in October 2008. The currency of Iceland, the Króna, fell by 50% overnight. People lost their jobs, their houses, and their livelihood and finally to top it all, McDonalds left the country. Since then, Iceland has caught the attention of the international community because of how quickly the economy has recovered. Industry is booming (especially the tourism industry), unemployment is low and wages and prices are rising again.

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Counting Down to

Christmas 24 things you need to know about Christmas in Iceland.

Christmas markets

Christmas lights

Get some Christmas snacks and hot cocoa while you shop for Christmas presents or just enjoy Christmas music and the general atmosphere.

It’s the darkest time of the year, so what better way to celebrate than to decorate your house with way too many Christmas lights? Extra points if they blink or change colours!

Yule lads Iceland’s version of the Santa Claus are thirteen lanky pranksters of troll descent. In addition to petty crime, they’re known for leaving children treats.

Christmas cookies Christmas cookies have a special importance to a homemaker’s reputation. Making several diﬀerent types of cookies earns you major bragging rights.

Christmas buffet Most restaurants in Iceland oﬀer special Christmas buﬀet menus. Expect herring, smoked lamb, smoked pork and turkey, with a range of sauces, sides and desserts!

Christmas cat Sounds cosy, right? Well, it isn’t. It’s a troll’s cat who eats children. Not even children who’ve been naughty, but children who didn’t get new clothes for Christmas.

Winter solstice The ancient Viking festival of Yule celebrated the winter solstice. Aﬅer Dec. 21st, the days start getting longer.

Advent lights The advent light is an electric candelabra with seven candles. Most homes have one but it’s a recent tradition, dating from the seventies.

Laufabrauð These crisp, wafer-thin wheat cakes are carefully rolled out and carved with delicate decorations before they’re deep-fried until golden.

Book flood Books are a popular Christmas present and bookstores are ﬂooded with new arrivals in December.

Gifts in the shoe

The second day of Christmas

The Yule lads leave small presents in children’s shoes, leﬅ by the window for the night. Most get a treat, but the worst behaved ones can only expect a potato.

Dec. 26th is also a holiday, known simply as the Second Day of Christmas. It’s usually spent going to Christmas parties with members of your extended family.

Thirteen days of Christmas Oﬃcially, Christmas is a thirteen-day period, beginning Dec. 25th, and ending Jan. 6th, on Twelﬅh Night.

Advent

The Austurvöllur Christmas tree

The oﬃcial Christmas preparation period ranges from the fourth Sunday before Christmas until Christmas eve.

New Year’s Eve New Year’s Eve is the time to party. Aﬅer watching the National TV’s annual comedy hour, it’s time to head out with the ﬁreworks!

The oﬃcial Reykjavík Christmas tree stands on Austurvöllur Square, in front of the Parliament building. The lights are lit on the ﬁrst Sunday of the Advent.

Christmas stress A strong dose of Christmas concerts, hot chocolate, and Christmas cookies helps to combat Christmas stress, an ugly side eﬀect of preparing for a joyous occasion!

Christmas songs New year’s bonfire Most towns in Iceland have a huge bonﬁre on New Year’s Eve. This is known as burning away the old year.

Christmas apples Apples are the undisputed Christmas fruit. The reason is simple, most fruit is imported to Iceland and Christmas was the only time to get apples.

Þorláksmessa Malt & Appelsín The traditional Christmas drink is a non-alcoholic one, a mixture of two sodas produced in Iceland, malt-ﬂavoured Malt and orange-ﬂavoured Appelsín.

On the day before Christmas, many people eat a meal of fermented skate. The odour is vile, but the Christmas feast should taste even better in comparison!

It’s what you might imagine, with one exception - the translations. Many beloved Icelandic Christmas songs are foreign songs (not necessarily Christmas-related) with Icelandic lyrics.

Hangikjöt Hangikjöt is a smoked leg of lamb. Whether it’s served raw in tiny slices or in the traditional way, boiled with a side of béchamel sauce and green peas, it’s delicious!

Christmas Eve Christmas Eve is when the main Christmas celebrations in Iceland take place. At exactly six pm people sit down to Christmas dinner (or go to church, followed by dinner) and exchange giﬅs aﬅerwards.

THE MOST INSTAGRAM-WORTHY SPOTS OUTSIDE REYKJAVIK

The Northern Lights Here‘s nothing like the northern lights! Catching a good photo of the aurora borealis can be tricky though so be sure to check out our northern lights photography guide, p. 66-67.

Geysir (or more accurately, Strokkur) it’s an erupting geyser, of course it’s going to look amazing in photographs. It erupts every 6-8 minutes so be ready with your finger on that camera button!

Skógafoss This beautiful waterfall on the south coast of Iceland, tumbling over a cliff onto the gravelly plains below, looks like what all the little waterfalls want to be when they grow up.

Jökulsárlón The still water, the blue and black icebergs and the gravelly sand banks surrounding the Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon make sure that this place is Instagram gold! 39

THE MOST INSTAGRAM-WORTHY SPOTS INSIDE REYKJAVIK

Hallgrímskirkja Hallgrímskirkja is the most recognisable landmark in Reykjavík. Not only does it look good from the street; the view from the top is incomparable!

The Pond The pond is a tiny lake in the centre of the city. It’s almost impossible to take a bad photo of the pond, it looks good from every angle and in every weather!

The Sun Voyager The metal sculpture inspired by a Viking longboat, with a backdrop of the ocean and Mount Esja is one of the most photogenic spots in Reykjavík.

Harpa The Reykjavík concert hall is a new addition to the Reykjavík cityscape but makes up for lack of history by consistently looking impressive and pretty.

W E L C O M E

O N

B O A R D !

Elevate your encounter with Iceland! Amazing helicopter tours around Iceland for individuals or groups. You can choose from a 20 minutes city sightseeing tour up to a whole day journey and everything in between. Our service team is on duty 24/7 and will happily assist you at any time. Check out our tours and prices on our website.

E-mail to info@rh.is or call (+354) 589 1000 www.rh.is

Got Questions?

What’s On has the Answers!

Travelling to an unknown place is one of the most exciting things you can do. Witnessing a culture and nature you’ve never experienced before is a truly profound experience. It also poses some difficulties. If you don’t do your homework, you can end up missing the experience of a lifetime. So, what can you do about it? The best thing to do is to ask a local! Stop by the What’s On office at Laugavegur 5 and get some advice. What should I eat?

Okay, but what should I do tonight?

One of the most difficult questions when you’re in a strange land is what to eat. It’s easy to fall back on the chain restaurants you recognise from back home, but you’d be missing out on trying Iceland’s excellent seafood, as well as a few other surprises.

Reykjavík is a vibrant city with a plenty of good music (everything from the Iceland Symphony Orchestra to your next favourite underground punk band), art exhibitions and other events. There’s always something going on and the people at What’s On stay up to date on the city’s event schedule. The office at Laugavegur 5 has an event calendar that’s updated every day and the What’s On website has an even more detailed event calendar. You should have no problem finding out where Iceland’s hottest bands are playing or when there are theatre shows in English!

The What’s On staff know all the best places around town to dine at and can point you in the right direction, according to your preferences. Want to try puffin, whale, horse or langoustine? They know the best places to do that too!

What should I do while I’m here? Want to see a waterfall or maybe an erupting geyser? Want to ride an Icelandic horse or perhaps you’d prefer a snowmobile ride on a glacier? Maybe you just want to fly over the island in a plane or a helicopter? Not only do the staff at What’s on know all the most beautiful spots in Iceland, they also know the easiest ways to get there! If you want to take a tour, rent a car, or take the bus, the staff at What’s on will help you find your way. 42

That sounds great, can they just tell me what to do for my entire stay here? Yes, they can! If you’d like, the staff at What’s On can prepare a schedule for your whole stay here and book it for you. Just tell them what you’d like to do (or let them tell you what you should do) and you don’t have to worry about a thing for the rest of your stay.

I don’t really need to go on any tours, I’d just like to know where the nearest currency exchange/supermarket/swiming pool is. Well, if you’d stop by the What’s On, they’ll not only tell you that the easiest and cheapest way to exchange money in Iceland is to go to a bank, they’ll also answer all your other questions, no matter how small. For exchanging money, there’s a bank right at the airport so the process should be quick and painless. If you need a bank in the city, the What’s On staff will also happily point you towards the nearest bank, supermarket, and/or swimming pool.

I want to know how I should behave while I’m here. Should I tip in a restaurant? What’s harðfiskur? How do I greet people? Of course, the good people at What’s On have the answers to this as well! What’s more, they’d be delighted to share their knowledge (if you’re curious, the answers are: you don’t have to, delicious dried fish chips, and Góðan daginn).

Basically, if you’re looking for information about Iceland or the Icelanders, just come on by the What’s On information office.

What’s On Laugavegur 5, 101 Reykjavík +354 551-3600 | info@whatson.is www.whatson.is

Day tours for beginners to experienced riders. In stunning nature only 15 minutes from Reykjavik!

www.ishestar.is 555 7000

What does it take to make an

Icelandic Lopapeysa Puffins, volcanoes, Northern Lights and blond people in lopapeysas. That’s a stereotypical image of Iceland, but for the most part, it’s actually pretty accurate, (even if the blond part tends to be bottled). Almost everyone has a lopapeysa, the woollen sweater with the circular pattern around the shoulders. It’s really no wonder, they’re warm, pretty, and as quintessentially Icelandic as it gets. Even though the lopapeysas are important to Icelanders, they haven’t really been around for as long as you would think. In fact, there are probably plenty of Icelanders who think it’s an older tradition than it really is. The truth is that even though people have been making woollen sweaters in Iceland since settlement times, the lopapeysas, with their distinctive style and fabric, have only been produced in this way since around the middle of the 20th century! For a sweater to qualify as an Icelandic lopapeysa, it must be made from Icelandic wool, specifically lopi (more on that later), be knitted in a certain style and have a specific type of pattern.

Lopi (The Wool) Icelandic wool comes from sheep, just like any other wool. So, what makes it so special? The answer is: the Icelandic sheep. Ever since the first sheep were brought over by the settlers, Icelandic sheep have been bred in isolation, retaining some qualities that have been lost elsewhere. For instance, their fleece consists of two different layers, made up of different fibres. The outer layer is made of coarse long hairs that are hardy and almost waterproof, while the inner layer consists of soft warm fibres that keep the sheep warm. When these two types of fibres intertwine, the result is warm, lightweight material, that also happens to be water repellent.

It’s not just the fleece that makes the wool for the lopapeysas different, it’s also the production method. Lopi is unspun wool and for a long time it was only considered a stage in yarn production, an incomplete raw material, especially since knitting machines can’t use lopi. All authentic lopapeysas are therefore handknitted. The airiness of the unspun wool is part of what makes the sweaters so warm, so make sure the sweater you’re getting is 100% lopi.

The knitting style One of the reasons that the sweaters became so popular is that they’re easy to knit and can be knitted relatively fast. The sweaters are

knitted on circular knitting needles, from the bottom up, and the sleeves are knitted onto the sweater with the pattern. When the sweater has been knitted, the only thing left to do is to hide two ends and sew the armpits shut, making the whole process pleasantly simple. If you feel like trying your hand at knitting a lopapeysa, you can get a prepared kit with everything you might need at the Handknitting Association’s stores.

The patterns The circular border of pattern around the shoulders is the most striking thing about the Icelandic lopapeysa. Although the sweaters were pioneered only a few decades ago, no one really knows who came up with the design. Some knitting pioneers have been named as the pioneers of the lopapeysa but as with most things, the truth is probably a little more complicated. The most prevalent explanation is that the design was an organic process with roots in the trends and evolving styles of the Icelandic knitting community in the 20th century, borrowing from knitting styles of Greenland, the Faroe Islands and the Hebrides. There are several classic patterns that are popular but knitters also have a creative license, the only requirement is that the sweater has a circular pattern around the shoulders. Some sweaters have a simple

pattern around the waist and wrists as well, but that’s optional. In many cases, the patterns are inspired by traditional Icelandic patterns, Icelandic nature, or even folklore, but some of the first patterns were also inspired by Greenlandic and even South American patterns, seen in books.

Icelandic artisans The thing about lopapeysas is that because the lopi is unspun, it’s very difficult to knit it in machines. That’s why the lopapeysa is traditionally knitted by hand. Many Icelandic knitters knit lopapeysas for sale and export and in 1977, the Handknitting Association of Iceland was founded. By marketing and selling the lopapeysas themselves, the knitters could have more control over the sales of their products and ensure that only the highest quality garments were being sold as the Icelandic lopapeysa. To this day, the knitters of the Handknitting Association sell their beautiful wares out of their Skólavörðustígur 19 store and their Borgartún 31 location, as well as online (www.handknit.is). They have a pretty impressive selection of the woollen goods in stock, but you can also have things custom made in a short period of time. If you’re interested in knitting a lopapeysa yourself, the have everything you might need - needles, patterns, and most importantly, Lopi wool.

Handknitting Association Skólavörðustígur 19, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 552 1890 www.handknit.is 45

FREE RIDE TO REYKJAVÍK'S LARGEST SHOPPING CENTRE

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Departures from the Tourist Information Centre, Aðalstræti 2, and Harpa. To Kringlan

From Kringlan

Monday – Saturday Every hour 10 am – 5 pm

On the half hour 11:30 am –4:30 pm

Sundays 1, 2, 3, 4 pm

2:30, 3:30, 4:30 pm

FACEBOOK.COM/KRINGLAN.IS

The Icelandic Yule Lads The Icelandic Yule Lads are a group of 13 mischievous trolls who start arriving in town, one per night, from December 12th until Christmas Eve. In the Iceland of yore, they were a nuisance and brought grief to the general populace. Today they’ve morphed into kinder, gentler Yule Lads who bring gifts for kiddies who have been nice. The naughty ones only get a potato!

Stekkjastaur

Giljagaur

Sheep-Cote Clod / Dec 12th

Gully Gawk / Dec 13th

jastau

Another fan of dairy products, Giljagaur doesn’t try to go straight to the cow’s udders, but waits until the farm workers are distracted before he swoops in and slurps the froth off the fresh milk.

Stekk

Stekkjastaur spends most of his time among the humans breaking into the sheep pens. He keeps trying to suckle the ewes, despite his disability, his two peg legs that make him completely stiff.

Stúfur Stubby / Dec 14th

Stúfur is named for his height, or lack thereof. He considers burnt bits of food that get stuck to the pan a particular delicacy and goes so far as to raid kitchens for dirty pans to get his hands on the good stuff.

Þvörusleikir Spoon Licker / 15th

Þvörusleikir is tall and skinny, and loves wooden spoons. He waits patiently for the work to be finished in the kitchen before he grabs the dirty spoons and licks them.

Pottaskefill Pot Licker / Dec 16th

fur

Stú

Like Stúfur, this Yule Lad also likes to lick the remains from the inside of the pots, though he has no interest for burnt remains. His tricks are simple. He knocks at the door, and when the inhabitants rush to see who it is, he sneaks into the kitchen and cleans out the pots.

ækir

nakr

Bjúg

Askasleikir Bowl Licker / Dec 17th

In the old days, Icelanders ate their food from a lidded wooden bowl called “askur.” This old fellow would creep and snatch the askar whenever they were put aside, licking their insides clean. Since most people have upgraded to plates, he probably has too, but still keeps his name, for old times’ sake.

Hurðaskellir

Skyrgámur

Door Slammer / Dec 18th

Skyr Gobbler / Dec 19th

Waking up is never pleasant, and being woken by a loud noise, such as a door slamming, is even less so. Hurðaskellir thinks this is hilarious and goes through town slamming doors for his own amusement.

For the uninitiated, skyr (pron. skeer) is a delicious and healthy dairy product, full of protein. Skyrgámur is the size of a bull and has a habit of eating other people’s skyr.

Gluggagægir

Bjúgnakrækir

Window Peeper / Dec 21st

The name really says it all. However, it’s important to note that his intentions, although not honourable, are mostly food-related. He only peeps in windows to locate food he could possibly steal.

Sausage Swiper / Dec 20th

Bjúga is a salty, smoked Icelandic sausage, a favourite of Bjúgnakrækir. He loves them so much, he doesn’t mind crawling through soot and smoke to get them.

fur

þe

tta

Gá

Gáttaþefur Door Sniffer / Dec 22nd

Gáttaþefur was from birth blessed with a huge nose, heightened olfactory senses, as well as the ability to never catch a cold. He is partial to laufabrauð, and uses his abnormally large nose to sniff out its hiding places.

Ketkrókur Meat Hook / Dec 23rd

Some of the Yule Lads are cleverer than others. Ketkrókur, for example, travels with a long stick with a hook at the end, perfect for sticking it down chimneys to steal meat, preferably hangikjöt (smoked lamb).

Candle Beggar / Dec 24th

Hurðaskellir

Illustrations by Elín Elísabet Einarsdóttir 48

One of the few Yule Lads not constantly occupied with food, Kertasníkir instead enjoys stealing candles, preferably from children. This seems especially mean when you know that in the old days every kid usually got a nice candle at Christmas and not much else.

Kertasníkir

WWW.SEAFOODGRILL.IS — TEL: +354 571 1100 SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGUR 14 - 101 REYKJAVÍK

Superjeeps and Snowmobiles

Have you ever been on top of a glacier? You won’t believe this magical realm of white plains above the world. There isn’t a better way to explore it than the excitement and comfort of a snowmobile. Snowmobiles are great fun and easy to operate. Mountaineers of Iceland is a fully-licensed travel agency, specialising in super trucks and snowmobile tours. The company has been operating adventure tours since 1996 and offers open day tours as well as private tailor-made tours for groups of all sizes. All the Mountaineers’ snowmobiles are two seated touring sleds with hand warmers and a high windshield. Careful planning, flexibility, entertainment and safety are top priorities. Whatever your idea or wish might be, Mountaineers will make it happen.

The Pearl Tour One of the most popular day tours is the Pearl Tour, where you get the opportunity to experience some of

Iceland’s most famous and exciting natural phenomena in a super jeep. The tour takes you on the Golden Circle and on an unforgettable snowmobile ride. One of the stops is Þingvellir National Park where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates can be seen separating from each other. From there you will head to Geysir hot spring and Gullfoss (The Golden Waterfall). To top it all off, you drive from Gullfoss Waterfall up to Langjökull glacier, Europe’s second largest glacier, for an unforgettable snowmobile tour. If you have a thirst for adventure and the need for speed, this day trip offers Iceland’s best. Everybody can go at their own pace to start with and

if you would rather double up with your partner and sit in the back, the experience will still provide you with something to share with your grandchildren. If you are on a tight schedule while staying in our beautiful country, the Express Activity Tour might be more suitable for you. It includes transfer from Reykjavík up to Langjökull glacier where we gear up for a snowmobile adventure. Riding a snowmobile over the second largest glacier in Europe, what more can you ask for? The tour Meet us at Gullfoss is perfect for those who have their own transportation and want to top off their day with something extra special. There are daily departures from Gullfoss Café up to our base camp at Langjökull glacier and the professional guides will take you on a snowmobile adventure in the Icelandic highlands, giving you the most amazing views of the majestic glacier and its surroundings.

That's just the beginning Mountaineers offer a wide variety of tours including truck tours, super jeep excursions, combinations with other activities and more! Mountaineers own and operate super- and monster trucks which have been specially modified to reach glaciers and other remote locations by the rugged mountain tracks of the Icelandic highlands. In addition to the Pearl Tour and the Express Activity Tour, there is, for instance, the Þórsmörk & the South Coast Tour. This tour takes you, as the name implies, to the south coast of Iceland and to Þórsmörk which is considered by many to be Iceland’s most beautiful area. The journey commences by driving in a modified super jeep along the south coast. On the way, you stop at Seljalandsfoss waterfall where you can walk behind the falls and gaze through Seljalandsfoss into the distance beyond. Then you head north to the highlands of Þórsmörk—a virtually untouched wilderness of magnificent mountains and unbridged rivers. It’s a wild ride! If you’re in Iceland during winter, chances

are you’re wanting to see the northern lights. The Mountaineers’ Northern Lights Hunt takes you on an adventure in the comfort of a superjeep to hunt for the northern lights. The agile trucks can go where most other vehicles can’t and the drivers are experienced and adept at finding the best places to see the lights. With the Northern Lights and Snowmobiling, you can combine the best of both worlds, riding your vehicle across milky white fields of snow in the dead of night while the aurora borealis twirl above you.

are always employed. All participants are provided with necessary gear like warm overalls, helmets, overshoes and gloves.

Everyone engaged in Mountaineers of Iceland activity service operations has extensive experience in the tourism industry and activity operations and the strictest safety standards

Mountaineers of Iceland Köllunarklettsvegur 2, 104 Reykjaík Tel: +354 580 9900 www.mountaineers.is

Remember to bring your camera with you We recommend Mountaineers of Iceland for anyone who is looking to take a step out of ordinary life and experience Iceland’s majestic nature up close.

How to Connect to Iceland’s Viking Past What is the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Iceland? Björk, volcanic eruptions, and heaps of snow? Well, you wouldn’t be too far off, but what about the Vikings? Iceland’s settlers were mostly Vikings and even though that was a long time ago, elements from their culture still linger in the Icelandic heritage. Worship the Norse Gods

Write a poem!

Head over to the Viking Vllage

These days, people are more likely to recognise Thor, Odin and Loki as characters from a Marvel movie, but we had them first! The Norse gods who inspired the comics were the gods of the first settlers to Iceland, and although Icelanders as a nation converted to Christianity in the year 1000 AD, the Norse gods still have a thriving group of believers today keeping the old customs alive. Also, even if you don’t believe in the Norse gods, the stories of their escapades are pretty entertaining!

Icelandic Vikings weren’t just known for violence, but also their poetry. In fact, their lyrical skills were no less revered than skills on the battlefield! Writing a poem for a king could save you from execution or get you banished from his territory, depending on the poem’s quality. In these modern times, fighting, raping, and pillaging is heavily discouraged, but writing poetry is very much encouraged, so to get in touch with your inner Viking, find a quill and some calf skin and get scribbling!

What better way to get in touch with your inner Viking than to eat like a Viking, drink like a Viking and sleep like a Viking!

Feed a raven

Visit viking remains

Ravens have a special spot in Iceland’s mythology and folklore. Likely stemming from Odin’s special connection to his ravens, Huginn and Muninn, Icelanders have always had respect for the raven. Icelandic superstitions claim that feeding scraps to ravens during winter can be a good insurance scheme. In folk tales, ravens often repay the kindness by warning their benefactors of impending avalanches or other natural disasters.

It’s been a long time since the Vikings lived in Iceland but there are still some remnants of that time left. Museums in Iceland contain relics from the Viking past, swords and bones for example, and you can even take a look at the ruins of a Viking longhouse in the oldest part of Reykjavík. However, the most important treasures from the Viking age are not jewels or buildings, but the manuscripts, revealing the history of the Viking settlers here in Iceland.

The accommodation is lovely as well and a great way to immerse yourself in the Viking culture. Both the hotel rooms and the Viking cottages are designed to evoke the spirit of the Vikings without sacrificing any modern conveniences. You’ll sleep like a baby and hopefully dream of an age gone by, when the Vikings roamed the land.

The Viking Village in Hafnarfjörður has been keeping the Viking spirit alive for the past couple of decades and shows no signs of stopping. They have the only Viking themed restaurant in the Reykjavík area. Their Viking feasts are not to be missed and in January, they even serve a classic Icelandic Þorrablót (a feast of traditional Icelandic food)! To cap it all off, the restaurant has live entertainment almost every night!

The Viking Village Strandgata 55, 220 Hafnafjörður Tel: +354 565 1213 | www.vikingvillage.is 52

The Fisherman’s Village

Harpa Concert Hall sinfonia.is harpa.is (+354) 528 50 50

Main sponsor:

@icelandsymphony / #sinfo

Skyr - Our Dearest Dairy Product Traditional Icelandic cuisine doesn’t have the best reputation (fermented shark, anyone?) but we’ve still got a few aces up our sleeves, products that are delicious even to the most discerning palates. Skyr (pronounced skeer) is a unique Icelandic dairy product that’s been a staple food in our country for over a thousand years. It is still enjoyed daily by Icelanders, in various shapes and form, renowned for its high protein content and smooth texture.

Provisions of history This deliciously healthy snack has been a large part of the Icelandic diet since the first settlers brought it with them around the year 1000. It’s even mentioned in the Sagas of the Icelanders. The skyr-making process is similar to cheesemaking, but the end result is a smooth dairy product with a tangy, slightly sweet taste, reminiscent of a thick Greek yoghurt. Its versatility and nutritional qualities have made this creamy delicacy popular with Icelanders throughout history. It’s available in the classic, unflavoured variety, but the flavoured and sweetened versions are also very popular, especially as a convenient snack. Skyr’s flavour and texture have always had their fans but, in recent years, skyr has gotten some new followers, thanks to the growing

popularity of fitness, body-building and overall healthy lifestyles. Skyr is not only delicious, it’s high-protein/low-fat combination has made it an indispensable part of any health-oriented Icelander.

A low calorie breakfast, lunch, dinner and desert For people who want to restrict their calorie intake but still eat well and maintain a balanced diet, skyr is a natural choice. Unflavoured, unsweetened skyr is a great substitute for mayonnaise, crème fraiche or yoghurt in cold dips and oven dishes. Although, mind you, serving it with cream and lots of sugar, like my grandparents prefer it, might put a damper on the dieting aspect of things. Children love it and for most of us, skyr was probably one of the first solid foods we ever tasted. Speaking of children,

I came home from work the other day, famished as usual, and immediately started rummaging through the refrigerator for something to ease my suffering. A can of Skyr was what I found, perfect, round, cold, ready to help me survive until dinner time. I opened the can, took one, oh so gratifying, spoonful before leaving the can on the kitchen table to go answer the phone. When I came back (no more than two minutes later) I found my three-year-old son with my spoon in his hand, smiling ear to ear, telling me proudly that he had finished all of “his” food. Bless him.

Fresh from the arctic This beloved product of ours is made from the best ingredients: milk farmed in the fresh green pastures near the Arctic Circle where the water is pure and nature is unspoilt. The modern-day processing technique is 100% natural, based on the original principles, using a thousand-yearold recipe and milk from the same cow breed, the colourful settlement cow. Until a few years ago, Skyr was only available in Iceland. This has changed in recent years since Skyr is now produced in Denmark, Sweden and Norway under licence agreements from Iceland and exported to Finland. It’s proven popular in our neighbouring countries and sales are steadily growing. This is really a lovely example of how life runs in circles. The original Icelandic settlers indeed came from Norway, and along with them, in all likelihood, the recipe for what has been a cornerstone of Icelandic diet for centuries. 54

Celebrating Design Bringing style to Iceland since 1975 Epal is lovingly familiar to Icelanders. It was founded more than 40 years ago when young Eyjólfur Pálsson returned from studying furniture design in Copenhagen. He soon realised that Icelanders didn’t have access to quality design items like he was used to. It was this shortage that led to the founding of Epal.

Once upon a time ... Because the Industrial Revolution started late in Scandinavia, Swedish, Finnish, and Danish designers created modern design using traditional materials and handcrafts back in the early 20th century. That use of easily available types of wood and traditional craftsmanship is a continuing trend in Scandinavian design. Scandinavian furniture is of a unique and stimulating class and this widely known common term applies to furniture from Sweden, Denmark, Norway, Finland and Iceland. This type of furniture has evolved over the years to conform to the standards of modernity. Epal has always strived to offer the best of Scandinavian design at any given time. Famous items such as

The Egg and Series 7 by Arne Jakobsen, PH 5 by Poul Henningsen and timeless giftware by Iittala and Georg Jensen have been available in Epal for decades. The list of design items available is extremely long and interesting. This is the sort of store you can always walk out of feeling like you have invested in beauty and style.

The visionary Eyjólfur’s objective through the years has been to increase understanding and respect for good design and quality products by introducing first class design and offering noted design labels from Scandinavia and other countries. But his main passion has always revolved around supporting Icelandic

This is the sort of store you can always walk out of feeling like you have invested in beauty and style.

designers and he has strived to assist in promoting their work. In his own words: “I realised a long time ago that good things happen at a slow pace. When you feel like things aren’t happening fast enough, it is best to take a deep breath, look at things in perspective and realise that Iceland has an abundance of well educated, hardworking people doing great things and working together to achieve their mutual goals. At Epal, we want to support this in any way we can by helping Icelandic designers put their ideas into action.” Eyjólfur addresses this point even further: “Up until now, Iceland has been far behind the other Nordic countries in supporting design and designers. With a strong, joint effort we could come a long way in improving the conditions of Icelandic designers who are advancing rapidly both home and abroad.” Eyjólfur stepped down from running Epal in 2010 and handed the torch over to his son, Kjartan Páll Eyjólfsson. Eyjólfur admits

that he still has strong opinions regarding everything remotely related to the running of Epal but now that the store is in his son’s capable hands, he has more time to work on his passion: to help young Icelandic designers make their way in the jungle out there.

The stores With this beautiful vision as a guiding light, Epal has flourished in the past four decades and there are now five Epal stores in Iceland, with the flagship store located in Skeifan, and beautiful stores in the Kringlan shopping mall, Harpa concert hall, and Laugavegur, Reykjavík’s main shopping street. Their newest boutique is located at the Keflavík international airport so you can stop by on your way home for a beautifully designed souvenir. When asked what era of furniture fashion most impresses him, Eyjólfur replies: “It is hopeless to speak of fashion when it comes to furniture and house accessories and I would rather not do that. We offer classic items that never go out of style. I think it is very important for people to invest in items that can withstand the test of time.”

We offer classical items that never go out of style.

Epal Harpa Epal Skeifan 6 Epal Kringlan Epal Laugavegur 70 Epal Keflavík International Airport +354 5687733 www.epal.is

Epal Skeifan 6, 108 Reykjavík Tel: +354 568 7740 | www.epal.is

Early Bird Beats the Crowd Providing the best service possible. Since 2015, the number of passengers traveling through Keflavík International Airport has doubled. And so has our commitment to providing the best service possible. The airport has received one award after another for its quality service, despite the rapid increase in traveler numbers. This summer will be our busiest ever and we’ve been working hard to implement new ways to meet that challenge. As before, we need your cooperation to make things run smoothly.

Midnight magic In order to help you avoid long lines at the ticket counter, we’re cooperating with WOW Air, Icelandair and Primera Air this summer to make it possible to check in for morning flights from midnight onwards. Arrive early and take advantage of stores and restaurants staying open all night. Enjoy some quiet time, shopping duty-free, far ahead of the crowds. Passengers traveling at other times of day will also be offered extended check-in times. You can look up the check-in time for your flight at kefairport.is/early. Every effort is being made to reduce the length of lines at border control. This we have done by installing automated border control gates alongside border control agents.

Gunnhildur Erla Vilbergsdóttir, commercial manager.

You’ll want to shop … A new service area was opened in June for passengers traveling to countries outside the Schengen area, such as the USA, Canada, Ireland and the UK. Most stores and restaurants located in the main terminal building can also be found in

the non-Schengen area, thereby greatly improving service for transit passengers. Regardless of their location at the airport, all stores and restaurants are tax and duty free, providing you average savings of 19.35 percent.

A new branch of the Sbarro restaurant chain opened in a pop-up area at the airport this summer, in response to passengers’ requests for increased offerings of quality fast food at fair prices. This has been a popular option for transit passengers, whether they wish to sit down and dine or bring a bite on board with them.

… Until you drop If you’re too tired to go shopping, sit down and relax with your smartphone or computer and enjoy our free Wi-Fi service for as long as you like. We’ve installed new seats and couches for you to rest in, and all are equipped with plugs to charge your smart devices. Be smart and show up early. There are no better hours at the airport than the quiet ones.

Keflavik International Airport Keflavik Airport, 235 Keflavíkurflugvöllur Tel: +354 425 6000 www.www.kefairport.is 59

The Wonders of Volcanoes Iceland’s volatile geography means that every now and then, Icelanders must be prepared for an earthquake, or even a volcanic eruption. At the Volcano House by the old harbour, close to Reykjavík’s city centre, you can learn more about the unique geology of Iceland. An Icelandic volcano is the reason for democracy as we know it The 1783-4 eruption of Laki was the biggest eruption in recorded history. When it erupted, the ash travelled all over Europe, causing widespread crop failures. The resulting famine was almost certainly one of the causes of the French revolution of 1789. When the people ran out of bread and were told to “eat cake” instead, they revolted, resulting in the first modern democracy as we know it.

Two of the biggest eruptions in the recorded history of the world, occurred in Iceland! Laki was the biggest eruption in recorded history, measured by volume of lava. But Iceland was also the site of the second biggest emission in recorded history: the 2014 eruption of Bárðarbunga. In just 6 months, Bárðarbunga produced enough lava to cover the island of Manhattan – 85km2. And Laki? That produced 370 km2 of lava – the size of the Gaza strip – in only 50 days!

Iceland has the only island scientists have been able to observe and document from the moment of its creation: Surtsey Surtsey was formed by a volcanic eruption at the bottom of the ocean and emerged from the water on November 14, 1963. It was immediately granted protection by law and to this day, only scientists can go there. Even they must get special permission. This means that we have been able to monitor how life settles on a brand-new land from the beginning!

1/3 of all the earth’s fresh lava originated in Iceland! When you’re discussing volcanoes, all concepts that have something to do with time get a bit skewed. For instance, fresh lava means lava emissions on earth since the year 1500 AD. So, why is all this liquid rock spewing to this particular spot on the surface? Because Iceland sits right on top of a crack between two tectonic plates as well as a geologic hot spot.

Iceland has a volcanic eruption every 4-5 years! This isn’t surprising considering the island has more than 100 volcanoes, split into different volcanic systems. About 30 different systems are still considered “active” in Iceland, and 13 of them have erupted since the Viking Settlement in 874.

WANT TO GET UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH THE VOLCANOES OF ICELAND? In the Volcano House, down by the Old Harbour, you can study the wonderful geology of Iceland. The exhibition gives guests an insight into the powerful Icelandic volcanoes and the rocks and minerals they spew to the surface. There’s also a Volcano show every hour on the hour, where you can learn about past eruptions. First, you learn about the eruption in the Vestmannaeyjar Islands in 1973. The small fishing community was faced with a sudden volcanic eruption in the middle of the night, forcing nearly 5,000 locals away from their homes. The second film documents the infamous eruption in Eyjafjallajökull 2010. This massive eruption caused thousands of flight cancellations, derailing the travel plans of people all over the world. The mineral exhibition gives an overview of Iceland’s geological history and volcanic systems. A large collection of semi-precious rocks and minerals, as well as ash and lava, is on a display.

Volcano House Tryggvagata 11, 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 555 1900 | volcanohouse.is

Ta sty l o c a l c u i s i n e by the old harbour Nýlendugata 14, 101 Reykjavik.

Hot

el M arin

——— 2017 ———

ICELANDIC RESTAURANT & BAR Ta b l e r e s e r v a t i o n s : + 3 5 4 5 1 7 1 8 0 0 - w w w. f o r r e t t a b a r i n n . i s

A Wrist-Work of Art Clockmaking is one of those professions that carry an air of mystique and an aura of respect. You immediately think of skilled craftsmen from somewhere in the middle of Europe—Switzerland or Vienna—who learned the skill on their father’s knee, who learned it from his father before him and so on and so forth. But what if I told you that a watchmaker doesn’t have to be old, have been doing it since forever, or even be Swiss to produce quality timepieces with a unique design?

A rocky start This is exactly what Sigurður Gilbertsson, along with his friends, Grímkell Sigurþórsson and Júlíus Heiðarsson, told his father, Gilbert Ó Guðjónsson. He was trying to persuade him to join their venture of designing and producing their own collection of high-quality watches. Gilbert, a clocksmith with more than 40 years of work and experience of the difficult Icelandic economy under his belt, laughed in his face. Such an ambitious production for such a small market seemed a farfetched idea, no matter the accumulated expertise of the people involved. When Gilbert stopped laughing and realised that his son was serious, things started happening. They made a hundred watches of their own design to begin with and the rest is history. Today, JS Watch co. is a thriving business with several different collections of high-quality design watches, each of them bearing witness to the craftsmanship that goes into making them. They’re also selling like hotcakes, proving beyond a shadow of a doubt that you don’t have to be Swiss to make a quality watch.

The devil’s in the details But what is it about the JS watches? The team credits their success to their attention to detail. “We not only

take pride in our watches, but also our customer care. It’s very important for us that the people who buy our timepieces know the level of perfection we try to achieve. Although we aim to get that message across in our international sales, nothing beats talking to someone face to face and inviting them into our workshop.”

A satisfied customer is the best reward JS Watch clientele includes some famous faces (or should I say famous wrists), including Tom Cruise and Yoko Ono. Perhaps even more interesting, other clients of note include the entire Icelandic Coastguard. JS Watch co. is the Coastguard’s official supplier of watches and the offshore emergency service exclusively uses the Sif North Atlantic Rescue Timer, which should give you an idea of the brand’s reputation for durability and accuracy.

JS Watch co. Laugavegur 62, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 551 4100 | www.jswatch.com

PROBABLY THE

WORLD’S SMALLEST WATCH MANUFACTURER

Our Master Watchmaker never loses his concentration

With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop. All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection.

At JS Watch co. Reykjavik we’re committed to provide a personal quality service and we pride ourselves on the close relationships we have with our customers.

We’re always happy to assist and we provide a friendly and reliable service where our customers speak directly to the designers and manufacturers of the brand.

Scan it and learn more! www.jswatch.com

Gilbert Watchmaker, Laugvegur 62, 101 Reykjavik, tel + (354) 551 4100, www.jswatch.com

A Paradise off the Beaten Track Just off the beach, in an unassuming building blending in with the nature around it, lies Nauthóll bistro. The restaurants in the city centre are mostly superb, but when it comes to atmosphere, this hidden gem, outside the bustle of Laugavegur is a refreshing change of pace. As much as I love the many lovely restaurants downtown, coming to Nauthóll always feels like a special treat. As you enter the modern, Scandinavian-looking building, you’re greeted with a gorgeous view of the beach and surrounding nature through the large windows, as well as a beautiful natural light. The large windows are perfect for admiring a starry winter sky and if you’re lucky, you can pop out to the veranda to see some northern lights. Just like the building itself, the interior décor, the tableware, even the food itself is all served in a beautifully simple style. The clean, clear lines of the restaurant harmonise beautifully with the ingredient-forward cuisine and come together to create an experience that is the height of 64

Scandinavian style, with a nod to the uniquely Icelandic aesthetic (look for the lopapeysapatterned staff uniforms, for example). It’s easy to feel a strong connection to nature while spending time at Nauthóll, which is why, for me at least, the cherry on top of the eating experience is the fact that the restaurant is dedicated to being as nature-friendly and green as possible in all stages of their operation. They’ve even qualified for the Nordic eco label, the Swan. The label is awarded to companies that have proved that they do everything in their power to minimise their effect on the environment. Now, all the style and environmental heroism in the world wouldn’t be enough for me to like a restaurant, if the food wasn’t up to par. Luckily, the chefs of Nauthóll know their stuff. The food matches the surroundings perfectly, making Nauthóll a great place for lunch, an afternoon coffee or a dinner. Although I must admit, sometimes the food isn’t even necessary, a hot beverage on a cold afternoon can be just as enjoyable. The hardest thing about a visit to Nauthóll is leaving the tranquil environment and heading back to the city. I manage, barely, but will look forward to many visits like this to Nauthóll and Nauthólsvík this winter.

Nauthóll Bistro Nauthólsvegi 106, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 599 6660 www.nautholl.is

Northern Lights

Photography Northern lights season is upon us and that means that we want to capture those awesome, spectacular lights on film—or the modern digital equivalent. Now, you might wonder, how do I take the best photos of the northern lights? Despite what you may think, it’s not all Photoshop; the perfect photo of the northern lights is within your reach if you just get acquainted with a few of the less used buttons on your camera. Dos and Don’ts

Camera Settings

Do set your camera to a longer exposure time

Aperture

Shutter speed

Aperture (the A setting on your camera) controls the depth of field, that is, how much of your photo subject is in focus. It dictates how much light is getting into the lens because you are dictating how “open” the lens is. A low number means that the lens is more open, and thus, more light gets in.

The shutter speed measures how long the lens stays open to take a picture. If the lens is open for a longer time, more light gets in, and you get better exposure.

The northern lights are dim, that’s why you can’t see them in the daylight. Setting a longer exposure time gives the camera time to take in more light than it usually would, resulting in brighter lights in your photos!

Don’t stay in the city! You can take a photo of the northern lights within the city, it’s just that it’s going to be more difficult. Also, getting out of the city means that the backdrop of your photos won’t be city streets but snow-covered mountains.

Do bring a tripod! As the exposure time is longer, it gives you more time to move the camera, resulting in a blurry photo. Steady hands aren’t enough, a stable surface or a tripod are essential!

Don’t go by boat If your goal is to take photos, that is. Remember how we talked about tripods earlier and how essential they are? Well, they’re useless if the surface they are standing on keeps moving all the time like a boat does.

ISO ISO is how sensitive you want your camera to be to light. Be careful when increasing it in daily use, since the photos will become grainier as the ISO goes higher. That doesn’t mean you should just set it to 100 and forget about it, the ISO can be a powerful tool, you just need to find what works for each setting.

RAW format If your camera allows it, shoot in RAW format, not JPEG. When shooting in JPEG, the camera automatically edits your photo, so you can use it right away, but discards “information” it doesn’t use. That information is pixels that the camera sensor caught which you might want to use. The downside is that you will need to edit your files manually in PhotoShop, Lightroom or other software.

RAW file; Aperture: 3,5; ISO: 1600; Shutter speed: 19 sec

The same photo, edited in Adobe Lightroom.

Extra tips! Get a remote for your camera

Focus!

Don’t rule out using your phone

They can be bought both wired and wireless, and some cameras can even hook up to your phone. Using a remote control decreases the likelihood of your camera shaking when you press the shutter release button.

Nowadays, many smartphones are perfectly capable of taking lovely photos of northern lights. Most Android phones have a default photo app where you can go to “expert” or “manual” mode, and there are a lot of camera apps, both for Android and iPhone, that allow you to get more of a DSLR camera feel on your phone.

Focus is very important too since you will have to set it to manual focus, which most lenses offer. When you are trying to take a photo of lights, the autofocus equipment in most cameras won’t work, so you won’t be able to take a photo. Set the lens to MF and just crank it up, snap a photo, check if things are in focus, if not, turn the lens the other way.

YOUR FIRST NORTHERN LIGHTS PHOTO! »» Let’s start by putting the file settings to RAW if that is a possibility on your camera. »» Set the aperture setting on low, so you get as much light in your lens as you can. »» Set the ISO to a manual setting. Start with 800 ISO and see if you like the outcome. If you don’t, try adjusting it till you get what you’re looking for. »» Try setting the shutter speed to 10 seconds at first and see what you get. If you like the outcome, go with it, but I often take northern Light photos at around 30 seconds. »» If 30 seconds isn’t giving you enough northern lights, try increasing the ISO to 1600—even up to 3200, if you’re feeling lucky. »» Try different setting combinations and see what you like!

Photo by Páll Stefánsson

The frontpage photo of this issue: Aperture: 2,8; ISO: 1000; Shutter speed 6,5 sec

HOW TO READ THE NORTHERN LIGHTS FORECAST The Northern Light forecast can be found at en.vedur.is but it is a little hard to decipher if you’re unfamiliar. Our handy guide should make things a little bit easier.

The colours WHITE means NO CLOUDS, while DARK GREEN means VERY CLOUDY. The different shades of green then mean more, or less, cloudy.

The numbers The numbers are a combination of how likely it is for the lights to be active and how active they will be. Don’t be discouraged if the number looks low, it’s actually very rare for the number to be higher than five. Also, take this with a grain of salt; a low number doesn’t mean that they won’t come out or won’t be impressive, and a high number isn’t a guarantee that they will be glorious all through the night.

Going on a tour? There are many tours taking you out of the bright city lights for a better chance of seeing the Aurora. These tours will be CANCELLED if there is no chance of seeing the lights.

All the major operators can be relied on to do this, first of all because there is a high standard of professionalism in Iceland, but more importantly because they lose money if they take you out needlessly – most of them promise to take you out again for free if you don’t see anything.

ALL THE ICELANDIC BEERS IN ONE AWESOME PLACE

The Cult of the

Sea Baron Kjartan Halldórsson, the original Sea Baron, is a bit of a cult figure in Reykjavík. An exsailor and coast guard chef, he set up a fish shop by the old harbour, back when it was nothing more than a grubby area with plenty of unused fishermen’s huts. The house was to be demolished and people told him the venture was doomed. Today, the Sea Baron hasn’t budged from its former fisherman’s shack turned restaurant. It’s still serving the finest lobster soup in the country as well as mouth-watering fish skewers, but now it’s surrounded by stylish restaurants on every corner. It has always stayed true to its character, though, retaining that Sea Baron spirit since the day it opened. From humble beginnings The Sea Baron led the change in the Reykjavík harbour area - what was once a busy industrial area has transformed into one of the most exciting neighbourhoods in Reykjavík, a cultural hot-pot full of restaurants, shops, and entertainment. The Sea Baron is an unpretentious dining experience from top to bottom, the kind of place people head back to time and time again. It is eccentric and unfussy at the same time - an experience altogether different from the regular restaurants populating the city centre. Elísabet Jean Skúladóttir is the current owner of the Sea Baron and she embodies

Kjartan and his wax sculpture

the family spirit that defines the Sea Baron. She started working for Kjartan in 2005 and he eventually asked her to take over the place. You get a feeling she will be around for some time yet.

Home away from home Walking into the restaurant takes you back a few decades as the walls are decorated with artefacts of the past, giving the Sea Baron a homely feel. The décor is stripped but it still retains a cosy feel (there is even a play area for the children!) The stools are converted fishermen’s barrels, and orders are made at the cantina style kiosk in the front. The Sea Baron encourages people to mingle in their dining

area, filled with picnic style benches. Keeping in line with the old-school throwback style – no wi-fi! There are even bunk beds in the upstairs dining area, where fishermen used to rest after long shifts on the sea. Elísabet recalls a tale of a traveling couple who weren’t up for a sea-angling tour. Instead, they took a long nap in the beds while diners feasted around them. “We want people to feel like they are at home - where you can do and say whatever you want”, Elísabet commented.

Of eels and wax Although Kjartan has now passed, he left a mark on the restaurant he created in more ways than one. He stayed around after handing the Sea Baron over to Elísabet, helping out in the kitchen whenever he could, as well as making his infamous smoked eel alongside partner Hörður Guðmannsson. They had to make it under the cover of night as the smell is unbearable! Don’t be startled by the lifelike wax sculpture keeping a watchful eye on guests. The statue sits in the same familiar place he did. This way the spirit of Kjartan still watches over the Sea Baron.

Sægreifinn Geirsgata 8, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 553 1500 www.saegreifinn.is

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ON: Meet Mother Nature at her Fiercest

The first thing you notice when you drive up to Hellisheiði, a hilly area just outside of the city limits, is the ever-present smell of sulphur, reminiscent of rotten eggs. The smell is a mild but a constant reminder that just below your feet is an inferno of geothermal heat, which ON Power utilises to pump out cheap and environmentally friendly heat and electricity for more than half of the nation. Their largest geothermal plant at Hellisheiði, situated in the geothermally active Hengill area, is state of the art and open every day to visitors who want to learn more about Iceland’s geothermal energy! Making use of the Mid-Atlantic ridge Iceland’s geology is a unique and powerful thing and despite the occasional volcanic eruption stopping air traffic (we’re sorry about Eyjafjallajökull), Icelanders have managed to harness its energy for the benefit of the entire nation, thanks to companies such as ON Power. ON Power produces electricity, originating in geothermal energy, for more than half of the Icelandic population. Drilling into the ground to access the 300°C(572°F) hot water, the enormous machines at Hellisheiði are ingeniously crafted to utilise as much of the energy that water provides as possible. Every step of the process, from when the water is pumped up for the first time to the point when it arrives to the citizens of Reykjavík in the form of heat and energy, is meticulously thought out.

Icelandic Geology in 70 words or less Iceland is situated on the boundaries between the American and Eurasian tectonic plates, which move away from one another at roughly 2 cm (nearly an inch) per year. It’s also sitting on a mantle plume, or a geological hot spot, similar to the one that created the Hawaii Islands. This results in an excess of volcanic activity and earthquakes as well as an abundance of geothermal power.

Did you know, for example, that excess hot water in Reykjavík is used to heat up streets and paths around the city, making them safer to walk during icy winters?

Get energized! The Geothermal Exhibition is only a 20-minute drive from Reykjavík and open every day. It’s the only geothermal power plant in the world where you can come so close to the action and see the machines in operation, constantly working to harness the immense power of mother earth to make life easier for the people of Reykjavík. In addition to seeing the powerful (literally) machines, the exhibition shows you how Iceland’s geology and geothermal power work. You can even hear the rumblings of some of the biggest earthquakes Iceland’s had in the past years!

Take a hike! … Around hot springs, rivers and beautiful lakes A visit to the exhibition gives you a sense of the power contained by Iceland’s nature. If you want to get a better look at it, the surrounding Hengill area is incredibly beautiful, with hot springs, craters, rivers and lakes. No wonder it’s so popular among locals! The Geothermal Exhibition is located at Hellisheiði, about 20 minutes outside of Reykjavík. You can book a tour with Reykjavík Excursions!

Did you know? »» Renewable power sources account for more than 70% of the total primary energy consumption in Iceland, far higher than anywhere else in the world! »» The Hengill area is among the most extensive geothermal areas in Iceland, with at least three volcanic eruptions having occurred in the area in the last 11,000 years, the most recent one being 2,000 years ago. »» Hellisheiði Power Plant’s production capacity is 303 MW of electricity and 133 MW of thermal energy. »» In fact, the energy production is so great that the thermal energy capacity could easily be increased by 300MW! That’s enough to power 135.000 blow-dryers running at once or 6 million 50-inch LED TVs!

ON Power - Geothermal Exhibition Hellisheiðarvirkjun Tel: +354 591 2880 www.geothermalexhibition.com

Welcome to Jómfrúin, the home of Danish smørrebrød in Reykjavik. It all began in 1888 with Oscars Davidsen’s highly praised smørrebrød restaurant in Copenhagen. An unbroken tradition of quality and Danish culinary culture for the past 100 years. Enjoy! Open every day 11:00 - 22:00 | Lækjargata 4 | 101 Reykjavík | jomfruin.is

WELCOME TO OUR WORLD OF RETRO!

GENUINE ICELANDIC DESIGN www.arc-tic.com

17 - 1501 — HVÍTA HÚSIÐ / SÍA

E A R LY B I R D C AT C H E S After her time in Iceland, Naomi arrives early at the airport so she can enjoy her last hours there before continuing her journey.

GIVE YOURSELF MORE TIME TO SHOP

F I N D F U R T H E R I N F O R M AT I O N O N YO U R F L I G H T AT K E FA I R P O R T. I S/ E A R LY

Arrive early at Keflavík Airport and we will greet you with open arms. All passengers travelling on morning flights with WOW, Icelandair and Primera can check in from midnight. We have increased our services so you can have a lovely last Icelandic experience. Shops and restaurants, open all night this summer, so you can embrace the last drops of Icelandic taste and feel — and of course Tax and Duty Free.

MORE TIME FOR SHOPPING

E XPECTED RUSH HOUR S AT C H E C K- I N

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To remember her time in Iceland, she brings back home unique souvenirs that she bought at the airport.

“ZOMG REYKJAVIK HAS A BIG LEBOWSKITHEMED BAR!” Tweeted by @caitlinmoran Followers: 668K – A Journalist for The Times, author, and broadcaster. Ever seen the 1998 cult classic “The Big Lebowski” by the Coen brothers? Of course, you have! Everybody has. For those of you unfamiliar with the concept, first of all, go watch it, right now. When you’ve done that, you’ll know that it involves Jeff Bridges as the “Dude” Lebowski, who, because of a case of mistaken identity is on a mission to seek reimbursement for a ruined rug and enlists his bowling buddies to help him. In Reykjavík, we have a bar based on the concept. Yeah, well. The Dude abides. Lebowski Bar, on Laugavegur, opened in April 2012 and was immediately a huge hit. The general idea was to combine a bar with a diner styled grill, furnished in the style of The Big Lebowski. Lebowski bar has a host of events and activities, such as DJ’s and live performances, quiz nights, and every major game and sporting event on the Big Screen. The bar can serve up to 300 people with food and drink in four dining areas, so every individual or group can be seated comfortably. Their diner-inspired menu offers a variety of Lebowski burgers and milkshakes, such as the classic “The Other Lebowski” (Steak Burger), the more health-conscious “Bunny Lebowski” (Chicken Burger with Blue Cheese sauce) or “The Nihilist” (BBQ Chicken Wings). The crown jewel of the whole establishment, however, is definitely the White Russian Menu, made up purely of Vodka and Kahlua-based cocktails. If the cream-based cocktail isn’t your thing, they’ve been adding to their bottled artisan beer menu, as well as their selection of whiskeys. 76

That rug really tied the room together The location of Lebowski Bar, along with its brilliant concept design, is a big contributor to its success. Laugavegur is the main shopping and bar-hopping street in Reykjavik. Virtually everybody goes there at one time or another, both locals and visitors. Lebowski Bar has through its location been both frequented by regulars and attended by passers-by and foreign visitors equally. I checked out Lebowski bar on a Thursday night. I had been there several times before on a weekend, but as these former visits mostly consisted of arriving tipsy and leaving drunk, I never wrote any reviews (although I should highly commend the bar staff for great cocktails) so I decided to behave like an adult, see the band that was playing that evening and have a beer. Having shown up early I got a seat between the bar and the band. Starting with a Tuborg Classic draft, I waited for the band to play their tunes and boy, was I in for a treat. The young keyboard player (a 19-year-old prodigy) started the night off with Booker T & MG’s Green Onions, followed by the guitar player serving ZZ Top’s La Grange with a twist. Needless to say, people could barely sit still in their seats. By the time I saw the bottom of that Tuborg draft glass, people were dancing to The Doors and my instinct told me to pick up

a White Russian for me and my date, who had been talking to some EVE online game conference guests as I made notes in my head about the brilliant atmosphere.

Hey, careful, man, there’s a beverage here! Among the previously named EVE Online conference guests, I spotted a pair of Icelandic actresses, having what I can only imagine being a glass of milk (as opposed to heavy cream and vodka) considering their itsy bitsy waistlines. Also present was an Icelandic MMA fighter (the only one we have come to think about it) and a group of college students who looked like they were really enjoying the music. The atmosphere in Lebowski Bar does not ask for age, gender, if you are wearing a watch or if you like bowling at all. It only asks that you loosen up, have a beverage or two and maybe a burger. Most important is that you have fun. Walking out of the front door I wondered how on earth such a wide group of people could find themselves sitting down and having such fun in the same place. But if the Dude abides, so should we.

Lebowski Bar Laugavegur 20a, 101 Reykjavík +354 552 2300 | www.lebowski.is

A Dining Experience Under a Bridge You might have heard tales of trolls living under bridges, but the Icelandic story of a luxurious gourmet meal under a bridge is less well known. One of the best seafood restaurants in town, Fiskfélagið or the Fish Company, was described as such by one of their first customers as he contentedly pushed his last plate away. The Fish Company is located in one of the oldest houses in Reykjavik, commonly known as the Zimsen building. It dates back to 1884 and was originally situated in Hafnarstræti, a few hundred metres east of its current location. After being completely renovated and moved to its current location in Grófartorg, Fiskfélagið took up residence in the cellar, underneath the bridge by the side of the building. During the groundwork stages of the Grófartorg reconstruction area, excavation revealed the remains of the older harbour. That has now been

incorporated into “The Tides,” a work of art by Hjörleifur Stefánsson developed in collaboration with Minjavernd Heritage Trust. This gives the area a unique atmosphere that gets accentuated even further as the tide rolls in and out of the artwork simultaneously to the tide in the current harbour. The menu features delicious Icelandic seafood but there’s a twist. The menu is designed to take you on a journey. The Fish Company menu takes you on a trip around the world, with top class marine cuisine melding together themes from Japan, France, Sweden, Fiji, Ireland, Tahiti and the USA to

name few. Dining at this restaurant is dining at its finest in Reykjavik. This is a restaurant that you can always count on to make your evening something to remember. The food’s great, the atmosphere is unique and the wonderful surroundings of this beautifully renovated old house ensure that whether you’re having lunch or dinner, it’s always going to be a treat!

The Fish Company Vesturgata 2a, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 552 5300 | www.fiskfelagid.is

PRE-BOOKING REQUIRED Book online at bluelagoon.com

The History of Icelandic Rock‘n‘roll There’s more to Icelandic music than Björk, you know!

Fish may be Iceland’s biggest export but the most interesting one is definitely Icelandic music! Now, I know what you’re thinking: “Well, I guess, but to be honest, I’m just not that really into Björk” First of all, how dare you disrespect our queen, second, there’s a lot more to Icelandic music than Björk! Icelandic musicians have been making it big in the international music scene for decades, everything from Mezzoforte and their Garden Party to Kaleo and Emilíana Torrini. If you want to know just why Icelandic musicians are so darn good, let me take you on an imaginary road trip to Keflavík, where it all began. If you’re travelling in Iceland, Keflavík is probably most familiar to you as the location of the Keflavík airport but there’s more to Keflavík than international transportation! Keflavík is where Icelanders first discovered rock music. The airport actually factors in the history of Icelandic music because it was built by British and American soldiers during WWII. For decades after the World War, Keflavík was the location of an American army base and the town of Keflavík was fascinated by the American culture, especially their music! The young people went wild for rock and roll music and Keflavík became known as Beatletown, due to the number of Beatle-esque bands originating in the town. If you want to know what happened next, it’s time to head into the Icelandic Museum of Rock’n’Roll, which of course is in Keflavík. It documents the developing music scene of Iceland, which later produced stars like

Björk, Of Monsters and Men and Kaleo, giving insight into the unique creative spirit of Icelandic artists. The history of Icelandic music is explained with the help of photos, outfits belonging to some of the stars of Icelandic music history, and, of course, music. Armed with a tablet guide, containing detailed information about Icelandic music, sorted by eras, you can enjoy the exhibition at your own pace, in your own time. If you get inspired by the innovative artists of Iceland, you can even try your hand at making some music yourself, picking up a guitar, playing some drums, or trying your hand at singing in the karaoke booth!

The Icelandic Museum of Rock 'n' Roll Hjallavegur 2, 260 Reykjanesbær Tel.: +354 420 1030 rokksafn@hljomaholl.is, www.hljomaholl.is

Icelandic Music History in 5 albums Trúbrot – Lifun, 1971 This late 60’s/early 70’s prog rock band was a supergroup, with members from popular bands of the sixties, Flowers and Hljómar. Trúbrot’s conceptual album, Lifun, is one of the gems from this decade. The Sugarcubes – Life’s Too Good, 1988 The Sugarcubes most famous member is the lead singer, one Björk Guðmundsdóttir, but the Sugarcubes music shouldn’t be overlooked. It’s difficult to define but words like alt-rock or avant-pop have been used in context with their music. Sigur Rós – Ágætis Byrjun, 1999 Sigur Rós are probably the second most famous artists to come out of Iceland. The post-rock group has been active since the mid-nineties and their ethereal sounds and out-ofthis-world vocals solidified the reputation Björk started for Icelandic music as introspective elf music. Írafár – Allt sem ég sé, 2002 With catchy tunes and inane lyrics, the summer pop music of the late 90’s and early 00’s was immensely popular in Iceland. Írafár is one of a host of bands that will evoke instant nostalgia in the hearts of everybody of a certain generation. Reykjavíkurdætur – RVK DTR, 2016 We’re still influenced by American culture and for the past few years, several Icelandic artists have been making hip hop and rap music! Reykjavíkurdætur is one of the most exciting acts coming out of Iceland at the moment, a 16-member rap collective making music about everything from Icelandic politics to their own impending international fame.

HAPPY HOUR EVERY DAY 16:00-19:00

The Light of Our Lives

Iceland, silly as the name can seem during the summer months, was named so for a reason. In the old days, before electricity and heating, when the cold and dark could be fatal, self-preservation and innovation were the keys to surviving. It is a wonderful thing that one of the best-known brands in Icelandic export is a product that has helped the Icelandic nation survive since the settlement. It’s a fish oil product called Lýsi and we are so proud of it. A necessity through the ages The Norwegian settlers of Iceland brought with them the knowledge of how to make Lýsi. They extrexted it from whales, sharks, fish, seals and even birds and used it as fuel for light, to soften and protect the clothing of seafarers and as a nutritional supplement for both humans and animals. For a time, it was even used as currency, as sources from as far back as 1096 state that church taxes in Iceland were paid in the form of this life-saving, smelly liquid. The name “Lýsi” comes from the product having been used as lamp oil, in Icelandic,

the verb “lýsa“ means “to illuminate“. Living this close to the Arctic Circle means that winter nights are long and dark, so one can only imagine how precious it must have been to be able to have light in the house. Add to that Lýsi’s nutritional value - it’s a valuable source of vitamins A and D (in a country where the sun is absent most of the time and low in the sky when it does show its face) - and it becomes an understatement to say that Lýsi has had a real impact on survival in this country. The method of processing Lýsi from the liver in the old days was, in the simplest terms I can think of, something like this: They dug a hole, put the liver in the hole and waited for the oil to squirt out. Hardly a developed technology, but nevertheless, Lýsi was the biggest export product of Iceland as early as the 14th century, along with dried fish and woollen cloth.

The beginning In 1938, a man named Tryggvi Ólafsson founded a production and export company, simply named Lysi. By that time, he was an expert, having spent the decade before trading and experimenting with Lýsi, first in a small lab he prepared in his home. When he founded LYSI, the company was considered a pioneer in the production of marine lipids and later became a global leader in the field. The company’s research has been on-going for decades and today LYSI is at the world forefront of research and product development. Tryggvi had a seat on the board until he was 96 years old and it wasn’t until 1981 that the first non-family member became president of the 84

company. In 1999 the company was reclaimed by the family and has been run by Katrín Pétursdóttir, the granddaughter of Tryggvi Ólafsson, and her family ever since. In April 2007, LYSI was awarded the President of Iceland’s Award for Export Achievement for its “unique achievement in the sales and marketing of marine lipid products and for the vision the company demonstrates in product development and for the build-up of knowledge and expertise in its field.”

…the rest is history Every child in Iceland knows that there is no way of growing up to be big and strong without having a spoonful of Lýsi with breakfast every day. They have no idea what Omega-3 and vitamins A and D do for them but it’s is a tradition. This is what mummy and daddy raise them to do because their parents told them to and that has been the way of things in this country for hundreds of years. But the LYSI product line has more to offer than just classic cod liver oil in a glass bottle. The company now has various production lines, including shark liver oil, omega-3 fish oil, and various blister pack products where in addition to the Lýsi itself, you get vitamins and minerals as well. Still, the majority of the company’s turnover comes from a tradition of 700 years, exporting cod liver oil in bulk. And in a country consumed with nostalgia, you can just begin to imagine how loving and respecting LYSI is branded into our dark-enduring, hard-working Icelandic soul.

SHOP LOCATIONS EPAL Harpa concert hall Epal Laugavegi 70

Reyk jav i k R ai ncoat s SH O W R O OM - H V ER F I SGATA 8 2

www. r ey k javi k ra i nc oat s.com - info@ reyk javik ra incoats.c om - TEL : 5 71 1177

LOCAL FOOD AND BEER Tasty and fun food made with fresh and local Icelandic ingredients. We offer a unique selection of Icelandic beer– 20 bottled, 10 on draft, and artisan cocktails to enjoy alongside the food.

ICELANDIC GASTROPUB

Open 11:30–23:30

Drop by for lunch, late lunch, dinner or drinks in a casual and fun atmosphere.

Hafnarstræti 1–3 / Tel. 555 2900 / saetasvinid.is

Learn Icelandic

A few helpful words and phrases

INQUISITIVE ADVERBS Where Hvar (kvar) When Hvenær (kvenar) What Hvað (kvath) How Hvernig (kverr-neag) Why Hvers vegna (kvars veg-nah)

POLITE PLEASANTRIES

NUMBERS

Good morning Góðan daginn (go-than die-inn)

Einn (Itn)

Tveir (tway-r)

Þrír (threer)

Fine, and you? Allt gott, en þú? (alt got, ann thoo?)

Fjórir (fyoh-rear)

Fimm (feem)

Goodbye Bless

Sex (you know how this one goes)

Please No word for that in Icelandic

Sjö (syuh)

Excuse me Afsakið (aff – sag- eeth)

Átta (out-tah)

Níu (nee-uh)

Tíu (tee-uh)

How are you Hvað segirðu gott? (kvath say-ear-thuh got?)

My name is... Ég heiti … (yegh hey-tee …)

100

I would like Ég ætla að fá (yegh ight-lah ath fow)

1000

Hundrað (hunt-wrath) Þúsund (thoo-sunt)

SOME USEFUL (AND SOME NOT SO USEFUL) PHRASES I would like to order the dried fish, the horse and for dessert, some skyr.

Where is the nearest ice cream shop/swimming pool/café?

Ég ætla að fá harðfiskinn, hrossið og skyr í eftirrétt.

Hvar er næsta ísbúð/sundlaug/kaffihús?

(yegh ight-lah ath fow hearth-fisc-een, hraws-eeth och skeer ee eff-teer-ryet)

(quar err nice-tah ease-booth /soond-loch/caff-ee-hoos?)

Where can I get some brennivín? Hvar fæ ég Brennivín? (kvar fy yegh Brenn-ee-veen?) When does the next bus leave? Hvenær fer næsti strætó? (kvenar fer nice-tee stry-tow?)

IN CASE OF EMERGENCIES 86

Excuse me, sir, but I just wanted to compliment you on your magnificent beard! Afsakið, herra minn, mig langaði bara að hrósa þér fyrir þetta stórkostlega skegg! (aff – sag- eeth, herr-ah meen, meeg lan-gah-thee bar-ah ath hrose-ah thyer feer-eer that-ah store-cost-leg-ah scag)

Help hjálp (hyowlp)

Stop it hættu (height-uh)

THE HOME OF ICELANDIC SEAFOOD AND LAMB APOTEK Kitchen+Bar is a casual-smart restaurant located in one of Reykjavíks most historical buildings. We specialize in fresh seafood, lamb and local ingredients prepared with a modern twist. OPEN 11:30–23:30 Mondays – Thursdays 11:30–00:00 Fridays and Saturdays 12:00–23:00 Sundays APOTEK KITCHEN+BAR

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Austurstræti 16

101 Reykjavík

apotek.is

Explosive Show! Volcano Documentary, Stone Collection and Geological Exhibition in Reykjavík, next to the Old Harbour.

Tryggvagata 11 | Reykjavík | +354 555 1900 | www.volcanohouse.is

On behalf of the entire crew

WE WELCOME YOU TO JOE & THE JUICE

ARRIVAL HALL AND DEPARTURE HALL AT KEFLAVIK AIRPORT

| KRINGLAN | SMÁRALIND | WORLD CLASS LAUGAR | LAUGAVEGUR

Visit our stores: Skólavörðustígur 7 & 16 and Kringlan, Reykjavík. Hafnarstræti, Akureyri. Haukadalur. Geysir.com