Flybus Magazine - Summer 2017 by MD Reykjavik

Summer 2017

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Six destinations with year-round possibilities, air charter services and day tours to Iceland’s most beautiful places

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GLACIER WALKS DAILY DEPARTURES FROM REYKJAVÍK - SÓLHEIMAJÖKULL - SKAFTAFELL

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FROM REYK RS JAVÍK 2017 - 18

icelandro mountainguides.is vers.is info@iceland info@mountainguides.is · Tel: +354 587 9999 uides.is rovers.is · Tel: +354 9999 mountaing 587 9999 +354 587 ides.is · Tel: www.mountainguides.is

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Welcome to Iceland I want to welcome you to Iceland personally. Iceland‘s popularity as a destination is growing year by year, and Reykjavík Excursions strives to bring visitors to many of the most interesting and exotic places in Iceland. Reykjavik Excursions is one of the country‘s oldest day tour companies, and we will celebrate our 50th anniversary next year. I am proud of our long history and the wealth of experience our guides, drivers and planners have accumulated over the past half century. We have always believed in the exceptional nature of Iceland that continues to fascinate travellers that join us on our tours. What I enjoy about going on day tours is that I can visit many of my favourite places in Iceland in one day. A few of them are Seljalandsfoss waterfall, a stunning waterfall in South Iceland, Reynisfjara black sand beach and Geysir geothermal area. All these areas are quintessentially Icelandic but very different. Seljalandsfoss isn’t particularly powerful but what makes it special is that you can walk behind it. Reynisfjara, with its long stretch of sand, columnar basalt and Dyrhólaey in the distance is a sight to see and Geysir geothermal area, with Strokkur, that shoots up a column of water every few minutes never gets old. You can visit all those places with us on the South Shore Adventure and The Golden Circle. But you can visit many other favourite places on our tours, including Snæfellsnes

peninsula, Langjökull glacier and our newest day tour; Raufarárshellir lava tunnel. The tunnel is one of the biggest in Iceland, and this tour lets you sense the forces of nature as you have never done before. If you want to learn more about volcanic activity in Iceland, we recommend going to the LAVA centre in Hvolsvöllur, the largest volcano & earthquake exhibition in Europe. We offer a range of excellent tours and travellers will find something to their liking with us, be it nature, adventure or city tours. Apart from day tours, we have also operated the Flybus since 1979, the main airport transport service between Keflavík International Airport and Reykjavík. It runs in connection with all arriving and departing flights. If you want the freedom to travel on your own around Iceland, our Iceland On Your Own program might be the thing for you. That way you can travel all around Iceland in the most comprehensive bus system the country has to offer. And if you have any special wishes, our planning experts will be glad to tailor-make a tour for you. I hope you will enjoy your time in Iceland and please share your experience with us by using the hashtag #reyex. Kristján Daníelsson Managing Director Kynnisferðir – Reykjavik Excursions

Published by MD Reykjavik ehf. Laugavegur 3, 101 Reykjavik. Publisher: Sigurþór Marteinn Tel.: 551-3600 Email: whatson@whatson.is Managing editor: Hjörtur Atli Guðmunds. Geirdal, hjortur@whatson.is. Editor: Gréta Sigríður Einarsdóttir, greta@whatson.is Layout & design: Stefán Birgir Stefáns, sbs@whatson.is Content writers: Gréta Sigríður Einarsdóttir and The What’s On Team Cover photo by Reykjavik Excursions, taken in Þórsmörk Printing: Oddi, Ecolabelled Printing Company Opinions expressed in this magazine are those of the individual authors. While every effort has been made to ensure the information presented is accurate, prices, times, dates and other information may be subject to change.

This magazine is published and distributed in exclusive collaboration with Reykjavik Excursions - a leading tour and coach operator in Iceland.

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The Golden Circle If you ask any Icelander what you should see while you’re in Iceland, you’re going to get the same answer. See the Golden Circle! Why the Golden Circle, you ask? Isn’t all of Iceland beautiful, what’s so special about this specific loop of road? I’m glad you asked… The Golden Circle is a 300-km loop of road that usually opens and closes in Reykjavik. It covers three main locations: Þingvellir National Park, the waterfall Gullfoss and the erupting geyser Strokkur in Haukadalur. On the way, you pass all kinds of different landscapes and views. Not only will you see some magnificent natural wonders but they’re a convenient distance from Reykjavík, so you can be back in the city at a respectable hour.

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ÞINGVELLIR The first stop on the Golden Circle is usually Þingvellir (pronounced Thing-vetleer). Þingvellir is an amazing location, not just for its natural beauty but for its rich history, reaching all the way back to the Viking age. It’s of great importance to the Icelandic nation, as it was where the Icelandic parliament was founded in 930 AD, shortly after the island’s settlement. This Viking government institution was way ahead of its time and its members met every year at Þingvellir for centuries. It was

temporarily disbanded in 1799, only to be reconvened some fifty years later, this time in Reykjavík. Some major matters in Icelandic history have been settled at Þingvellir. For instance, it was decided in the year 1000 AD that Icelanders would turn their backs on the old gods and convert to Christianity. Þingvellir is also where Iceland submitted to the Norwegian king in the 13th century and declared their independence in 1944. In addition to the area’s historical importance, it’s also quite impressive from a geological point of view. As you might know, Iceland is a volcanic island and it’s on the rift between the Eurasian and American tectonic plates. At Þingvellir you can actually see that rift, cracking the ground. The whole area is covered in cliffs, cracks and fissures, some of them filled with crystal clear water. You can go snorkelling at Þingvellir and even diving if you have the necessary permits. If you’d rather stay on dry land, simply enjoying the incomparable views is activity enough.

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

REYKJAVÍK'S EXCURSIONS' GOLDEN CIRCLE TOURS Golden Circle Direct On this Golden Circle tour, we will experience the thrill of an erupting geyser, one of the country’s most spectacular waterfalls and Iceland’s best-loved national park, all within the space of a few hours. We will visit the hightemperature Geysir geothermal area, the nearby Gullfoss waterfall and Þingvellir National Park, the site of Iceland’s ancient parliament. Come join us on Iceland’s most popular excursion!

Golden Circle & Friðheimar Cultivation Centre The Golden Circle includes a few of Iceland's most stunning sites; Þingvellir, Gullfoss and Geysir. Additionally, we visit the Friðheimar greenhouse cultivation centre, where we learn about the magic behind growing delicious, pesticide-free tomatoes and cucumbers with the aid of geothermal heat which Iceland has in abundance. Unique food experience!

Golden Circle & Fontana Wellness GULLFOSS

GEYSIR

When you are able to tear yourself away from Þingvellir, you head on towards Gullfoss, a waterfall in Hvítá. Simply describing Gullfoss as a waterfall might be accurate but in order to do it justice, you’re going to need to get more descriptive. Gullfoss is a two-tiered, bellowing stream of water; a constant display of the thundering power nature can unleash when it gets its act together. The amount of water frothing white over cliffs and roaring down into a deep canyon is almost unbelievable until you see it with your own eyes.

When you leave Gullfoss, you’ve seen all you need to see of water streaming down, now it’s time to see it shoot straight out of the ground and into the air! Iceland has a few examples of one of nature’s most amazing spectacles – geysers, or erupting hot springs. The Geysir geothermal area is named for Geysir, one of the most famous geysers in the world, and the one that gave the phenomenon its name. Unfortunately, due to geological shifts in the earth, it doesn’t erupt regularly any more, but that doesn’t mean there’s nothing to see.

The best part about Gullfoss is that it’s still relatively unspoilt by humans. There’s just some wooden steps down from the road and a walking path, with a safety rope, up to the spot where the waterfall can best be viewed. This means you have to be careful and watch yourself while you’re there, (don’t cross the ropes! don't do it!) but it also means that you can enjoy the splendour of the unobstructed view, just like nature intended it.

Strokkur, Geysir’s neighbour, puts on a show every 6-8 minutes, blowing hot water high into the air. All around are pools of scorching hot water, some muddy, others clear and yet others bubbling like cauldrons. Icelanders have loved visiting Geysir for a long time, for instance, tourists have been able to get coffee and refreshments there since 1928!

We’ll take you there!

This tour combines the very popular Golden Circle tour with a visit to the geothermal baths at Laugar - vatn Fontana. At Laugarvatn Fontana, we will get a firsthand experience of how locals use hot springs for baking bread. We will be offered to take a short walk (2 min.) down to the lake shore and observe a rye bread being taken out of a hot spring. Experience the beauty and wellness of Iceland!

Golden Circle & Snowmobiling On this day tour, you will get the adventure of a lifetime - a one-hour snowmobile ride on Iceland’s second largest glacier, Langjökull. Additionally, we will make stops at the stunning Gullfoss waterfall, the high-temperature geothermal area Geysir with its numerous hot springs and Þingvellir National Park. Get up close with some of Iceland’s most stunning natural wonders!

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Nature Tours

Þórsmörk

Iceland is a land of contrasts, of ice and fire. It may be a cliché at this point but that doesn’t make it any less true. This volcanic island, just south of the Arctic Circle, has green valleys and jet-black deserts, glacial rivers and hot springs, fields of lava and jagged mountaintops. Situated atop a geological hot spot as well as a rift between the earth’s tectonic plates, Iceland is a constantly evolving country, with volcanic eruptions approximately every four or five years! Exploring Iceland’s extraordinary landscapes is a chance to see something completely different, so what are you waiting for? Go exploring! Waterfalls They say that when you travel in Iceland, you see a lot of water. It comes in many different forms but one of the most striking one is the waterfalls you’ll find all over the mountainous country. The most famous ones (or at least the most photographed ones) are two waterfalls on the south coast of Iceland, flowing over the edge of the Eyjafjöll mountain, Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss.

Skógafoss is a thundering white sheet of water flowing straight down to the plains below but Seljalandsfoss flows over a cliff into the mouth of a wide cave. You can even walk behind the waterfall to see it from the other side. Be careful, you might get wet!

Glaciers Another form of water you can’t miss seeing are the icy glaciers covering about 11% of

Iceland’s surface area. Each of Iceland’s glacier has a specific character. There’s the mysterious Snæfellsjökull, for example, which Jules Verne cast as the opening to the centre of the earth and Langjökull, where you can actually go into the glacier, into a man-made cave at the heart of the glacier’s blue ice. Exploring the surface can be just as enjoyable, going glacier hiking or even snowmobiling! Don’t go onto a glacier without a guide however, they can be dangerous for the inexperienced traveller.

Volcanoes and Lava Fields

Reynisdrangar

Iceland has a volcanic eruption approximately 4-5 years. The landscape is constantly evolving and as you travel through Iceland you’ll see everything from rough, black fields of fresh lava to older, greying lava, covered in a thick blanket of grey-green moss. Be careful not to disturb it, the moss might look sturdy but it’s a delicate plant and takes years

We’ll take you there!

Reykjavik Excursions | 9

Reykjanes

Raufarholshellir

to recover if it’s torn. You can still see ash from past eruptions in some areas, in black patches on glaciers and as shadows on the icebergs floating on Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon.

in the English language. While Geysir doesn’t erupt anymore, there’s another geyser just a few metres away, Strokkur, which erupts with an impressive force every 6-8 minutes.

Geothermal Areas and Geysers

Black Beaches

Even when there aren’t any active eruptions in Iceland, the heat that continuously boils underground is visible on the earth’s surface. The geothermal force is evident in bubbling pools of mud, still and clear blue pools of water at boiling temperatures, and mud in every colour of the rainbow, from blue to red and yellow. One of the most popular destinations in Iceland is the geothermal area around Geysir, the original erupting hot spring that gave its name to the phenomenon

Much like Björk, Iceland always has to do thing a little bit differently than others. In Iceland, the beaches aren’t a soft golden colour, they’re jet black! The colour comes from the fact that the sand consists of ground up particles of the volcanic basalt that makes up the base of Iceland. The black beaches can make for some dramatic photos, but be careful, another thing that separates the Icelandic beaches from their southern counterparts is that they can be

quite dangerous if you get to close to the water. Beaches like Reynisfjara often have dangerous sneaker waves, powerful waves that can pull people into the water if they get to close.

Caves You haven’t really explored Iceland if you’ve just stayed on the surface, to really get in touch with the bedrock of Iceland, go underground! The young (in geological estimates) country is cut through with caves and underground tunnels, which, at some point in history, were filled with liquid lava! The caves stretch far underground, going from tight spaces to airy underground halls along the way.

NATURE TOURS FROM REYKJAVIK EXCURSIONS South Shore Adventure We drive along the south coast of Iceland, one of the country’s most scenic regions. Along the way we stop at the gorgeous Seljalandsfoss waterfall, which is unique in that you can walk behind it. We also stop at the majestic Skógafoss waterfall and visit the Skógar Folk Museum. Other highlights include the stunning Mýrdalsjökull glacier and the black sand coastline near Vík. A full day of awe-inspiring sights!

Wonders of Reykjanes Get a little bit of everything Icelandic on this tour which includes two geothermal sites (Krýsuvík and Gunnuhver), dramatic coastlines and a quaint, 10 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

historic town. At the end of the tour, it is possible for those who have a prebooked ticket, to have a soak in the Blue Lagoon. Otherworldly landscapes!

Wonders of Snæfellsnes The Snæfellsnes peninsula in West Iceland is almost a miniature version of the island. In addition to its characteristic Snæfellsjökull glacier, there are black sandy beaches, bird cliffs, spectacular mountains and volcanic craters. On this tour, we will for example stop at the small fishing village Arnarstapi, the ancient fishing village

Hellnar, visit Djúpalónssandur beach and the iconic Kirkjufell mountain.

Landmannalaugar & Saga Valley This unique part of the highlands is one of Iceland’s most awe-inspiring places. Among its main characteristics are the colourful rhyolite mountains with their varying textures, shapes and sizes, and the wonderful natural hot springs, perfect for soaking in after a day of hiking. En route there we drive through Þjórsárdalur valley, with its stunningly diverse and colourful landscapes, and visit a reconstructed medieval farmhouse. A paradise for hikers!

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Noi Sirius is Icelandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading confectionery manufacturer, producing many types of premium chocolate. The delicious taste of the milk chocolate is due to the special breed of Viking cow, native to Iceland, that free roam the countryside, grazing and drinking the purest glacial water in the world.

Have an Adventure in Iceland

Raufarhólshellir

If watching Iceland’s stunning nature from a bus window isn’t enough for you, you always have a choice to take a more active approach to exploring Iceland. Iceland’s unique landscapes and out-of-this-world nature are the perfect venues for the adventure of a lifetime, whether you feel like driving in a modified jeep to places inaccessible to the rest of the population, riding in an open vehicle like an ATV or a snowmobile, or hiking on your own two feet to places no vehicles can reach. Super Jeeps Iceland is not really a small country even though the population is small. One of the most sparsely populated countries in the world, Iceland’s population mostly resides around the coastline, as the mountainous highlands in the centre of the country are uninhabitable. The landscapes in this

inhospitable wilderness are some of the most magnificent you’ll ever witness but the gravel roads leading there are usually extremely rough, sometimes even requiring you to ford rivers. If you want to see these natural wonders with your own eyes (and you do, trust me), no ordinary city car is going to survive the trip. The only way is to take a tour in a modified 4x4 jeep that can handle the roads and get you where you want to go.

ATV’s You don’t always have to go farther or to an unknown location to get to know a different side of Iceland. Sometimes just changing your mode of transportation is enough to get a whole new experience. Sitting in a car is one thing but feeling the air rush around your head as you zoom across a black sand desert on an ATV is a whole other thing.

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Glaciers About 11 % of Iceland’s surface is covered with glaciers. We also have the largest ice cap in Europe, Vatnajökull. From afar, these glaciers look like solid fields of white ice but as you get closer, you see the texture of the ice, sometimes cut through with crevasses, or streaked black with ash from a recent volcanic eruption. Visiting these glaciers is an experience unlike any other and going hiking on a glacier is highly recommended. Just be sure to travel with an experienced glacier guide, the glaciers can be dangerous for the uninitiated. If hiking on a glacier isn’t fast enough for you, you can always go snowmobiling. Whooshing acroass the white blanket of snow is an amazing feeling and the view is incomparable. It’s the perfect chance for a selfie to make people believe you really visited ICE-land. Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

REYKJAVÍK'S EXCURSIONS' ADVENTURE TOURS Langjökull Ice Cave Experience – Into the Glacier Visit a unique and remote man-made ice cave in Langjökull glacier. We begin the tour by driving to Húsafell with stops at Deildartunguhver, the beautiful Hraunfossar and Barnafoss waterfalls. After a lunch break in Húsafell (not included), we head on up to Langjökull, almost to the top of the glacier, where we enter the magnificent cave. Imagine standing on an ice cap reaching 200 metres below your feet!

Take a Walk on the Ice Side

ATV & The Golden CIrcle

Only a few-hours drive away from Reykjavík is Eyjafjallajökull glacier, and just a little further the Sólheimajökull glacier tongue extends down from Mýrdalsjökull. We take a walk on crampons up on to the ice field. We will provide and teach you how to use basic glacier equipment but ice climbing is not included. On the way back there’s a stop at the striking waterfalls, Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss. Challenges and thrills!

Lava Cave and Geothermal Adventure Cicling on Þorbjörn

Finally, you don’t have to stick to just exploring the surface of the glacier. You can also travel into the glacier! At the heart of the Langjökull glacier, the part where the ice is the thickest, you can climb into a manmade ice cave and explore the glacier from the inside.

Hiking In some places in Iceland, roads are rough and hard to traverse. In other places, they simply aren’t there and walking on foot is the only way to get around. Planting your own two feet on the ground, breathing in the mountain air and taking in the view after a hike is not just a great way to see Iceland, it’s an incomparable experience! Some of the most popular hiking trails are only open to the public during the summer months, as they’re too dangerous

We’ll take you there!

Inside a glacier

in the winter. These include the popular Laugavegur hiking trail, leading from the hot springs of Landmannalaugar to the beautiful nature preserve in Þórsmörk. If you have the time, you can add one more day to your hike and finish with the Fimmvörðuháls hiking trail, walking past the infamous Eyjafjallajökull volcano and down to the beautiful Skógafoss.

Caving You don’t have to limit your explorations to the earth’s surface. Iceland’s unique geology has resulted in some interesting phenomena, such as the lava tube cave. These long and winding caves stretch far underground because at one point, liquid lava flowed through the tunnels. Now empty, the lava tubes are incredible places to explore due to the impressive rock formations you’ll come across.

On this tour, we will visit Iceland’s largest natural lava cave. The stunning Víðgelmir cave (148000m 3 ) is one of the largest natural lava caves in the world. There we start an adventurous and guided walk down the great, colourful and beautiful lava cave. Following the cave adventure, we relax at the geothermal pool at Húsafell.

Lava Tunnel - Caving in Raufarhólshellir On this brand-new tour, we visit the lava tunnel Raufarhólshellir located only 30 minutes from Reykjavík. We will witness the inner workings of a volcanic eruption while we walk in the path of a lava that flowed thousands of years ago. The lava tunnel is one of the biggest in Iceland and gets up to 30 metres wide and 10 metres high. Challenge your senses!

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Steikhúsið simply means “The Steak House” and that underlines our goal, to focus solely on steaks. Steikhúsið is in the middle of Reykjavík, opposite the old harbour, which has recently formed into a lively neighbourhood of restaurants, cafés, artisan stores and work shops. When you visit us, remember to try our “28-day” tendered meat. The heart of the place is a coal oven from Mibrasa, Spain. It is only fitting that we use coal for grilling and baking, since the building housed a blacksmith and metal works in years gone by. THE KITCHEN IS OPEN FROM 17:00 ‘TILL LATE — VISIT WWW.STEAK.IS

: Booking +354 561 1111 & steik@steik.is

A Natural Luxury

Bathing in Iceland’s geothermal heat

Laugarvatn Fontana

Living on a rocky volcanic island just south of the Arctic Circle might not sound like everyone’s cup of tea but it does have its perks. While we have to be prepared for a volcanic eruption or an earthquake every now and then, most of the time the geothermal heat just bubbles quietly underneath the surface and can actually be quite useful. Icelanders have learnt to harness the geothermal heat and today, we rely on it for many purposes; to keep our homes at the perfect temperature the whole year round, to create electricity, and most importantly - to bathe in. For centuries, Icelanders have been taking advantage of the fact that they live in a country where warm water springs from the ground. For the lucky landowners with access to it, not only was laundry a far easier and cost-effective process but bathing and relaxing in hot water also proved invaluable. There are records of hot spring baths dating back to the Viking age! Snorri Sturluson, a 13th-century politician and scholar who documented the stories of the Norse gods for future generations, had his very own hot tub, which still exists to this day. Bathing in geothermal water is not just a thing of the past. To this day, every town in Iceland has a public swimming pool with geothermally heated water, where the locals gather to mingle and chat about everything and nothing in the hot tubs. The swimming pools are a great place to witness the

We’ll take you there!

equality of Icelandic society. Everyone goes to the pool, no matter their age or social standing. The atmosphere is welcoming and on any given day you can find the mayor of Reykjavík sitting in the hot tub chatting to a blue-collar worker, senior citizens swimming in the same lanes as athletic youths and teenagers discussing urgent matters of life and love in the wading pool while toddlers run and splash around them. Aside from the public pools, there are a few places in Iceland where you can experience the luxury of the geothermal water in natural surroundings. By visiting the source of the hot water instead of having it pumped to you, you get to witness the energy of the Icelandic landscape in its natural state. The geothermal areas where the hot springs can be found showcase the power of the geothermal heat. Surrounded by black

lava, tiny pools of bubbling water too hot to touch, or other reminders of the immense energy hidden underneath Iceland, the stark landscapes are a contrast to the luxurious pleasures of the spa.

Blue Lagoon

Reykjavik Excursions | 15

Secret Lagoon

Blue Lagoon

Laugarvatn Fontana

Bláa Lónið

Laugarvatn Fontana

The Secret Lagoon

Blue Lagoon is the result of a lucky accident, the byproduct of using geothermal heat to produce electricity. The characteristic milky blue water is groundwater pumped up from the depths of the earth and mixed with cold seawater to reach the perfect bathing temperature. There are no chemical cleaners in the water, it relies instead on fresh water flowing in constantly. All the water in the lagoon is gradually replaced every 48 hours.

The Laugarvatn Fontana Spa is located on the Golden Circle, Iceland’s most popular tourist route. The whole area is rich in geothermal heat, the most spectacular example of which is the Geysir geothermal area, where Strokkur erupts hot water high into the air. The warm water at Laugarvatn has been used for bathing for centuries and the natural steam baths featuring steam rising directly from the hot spring.

The Secret Lagoon is one of the oldest swimming pools in Iceland, recently renovated. The renovations are discreet, with the ruins of the old bathhouse left standing, so visitors can enjoy all modern comforts but still feel like they went back in time for about a century. In between bouts of soaking in the geothermal water, take a walk around the pool, enjoying the view of the surrounding hot springs, some bubbling, some still, and yet others erupting every now and then.

WELLNESS TOURS FROM REYKJAVIK EXCURSIONS Fontana Wellness Geothermal Baths Bathe in the refreshing natural baths of Laugarvatn Fontana while taking in the stunning views of the surrounding mountains and lake Laugarvatn. Enjoy four different hot pools, three steam rooms with varying temperatures and a traditional sauna. You can cool off in between by running across the black sand beach into Laugarvatn lake. Pamper yourself!

The Blue Lagoon

Golden Circle & Fontana Wellness

Make your Iceland adventure even better by bathing in the world famous Blue Lagoon.

With Reykjavik Excursions you can travel to the Blue Lagoon when arriving or departing through Keflavík International Airport, from your Reykjavík accommodation or in combination with selected day tours. Swimsuits and towels can be rented or bought on the spot.

Experience the beauty and wellness of Iceland!

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Reykjavík City Tours

Reykjavík is a city like no other. This northernmost capital of an independent country may not match other capitals in population numbers but we make up for it in other ways. History Iceland’s first permanent settler in the 9th century, Ingólfur Arnarson, also happened to be Reykjavík’s first inhabitant. According to legend, he made his homestead in Reykjavík after throwing the beams from his chieftain’s seat overboard and vowing to make his home where they washed ashore. Even though Reykjavík has old roots, it had a long way to go before becoming the city it is today. Up until the 18th century, Reykjavík wasn’t even a town, just a single farm

just like any other in Iceland. Sheriff Skúli Magnússon chose the location for his wool workshop, which set off the industrialisation of Iceland. It’s for this reason that he’s known as the father of Reykjavík. At the turn of the 20th century, Reykjavík still had just around 6000 inhabitants and most of Icelanders still lived in rural communities. The following century was one of the most turbulent in history and the changes to Icelandic society were incredible. Today, about two thirds of Iceladners live

in Reykjavík or the surrounding area and Reykjavík has blossomed into a dynamic, creative city, rivalling capitals in Europe for its community spirit if not its size.

Nature Reykjavík is a small city and just a few minutes’ drive will take you out into untouched nature, with plenty of hiking and picnicking opportunities. In fact, you don’t even have to leave the city centre to see some stunning nature, the view of Mt. Esja from the city centre is spectacular! Standing by the modern Harpa Concert hall in the city centre and looking out over the sea, with the Esja on the other side of the water gives you a feeling of how close the people of Reykjavík are to nature at all times. Even in the centre of the country’s capital, you still have a view of a mountain range that’s just begging to be a part of your Instagram feed. Mt. Esja is also helpful if you need to find your way, the mountain is straight north from the centre!

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Reykjavik Excursions | 19

Reykjavík is filled with green spaces. In fact, you can follow walking paths all the way from the tip of the Reykjavík peninsula to Heiðmörk, the wooded area on the south side of the city. On the way, you’d find several lovely locations, popular with the locals for outdoor recreation. There’s even the Elliðaár river, a beautiful, untouched river flowing through the capital, so clear and pure that you can even go fishing, if you get a permit!

Music & Culture Despite Reykjavík’s small size, the culture scene is booming. Visual arts and literature thrive despite the small population but the real star of the show is the Icelandic music scene. Iceland, this nation of just about 330.000 people has produced stars such as Björk, formerly of the Sugar Cubes, Sigur Rós, Of Monsters and Men and the list goes on. The local scene is thriving and every music genre you can think of is represented, from introspective indie pop to reggae and hip hop, Icelanders are putting their own twist on it. A great way to get to know Icelandic music is at the music festivals that regularly take over Reykjavík. There’s the Summer Solstice festival and Sónar Reykjavík, specially dedicated to electronic music, but the biggest one is the Iceland Airwaves festival. For five days every autumn, music lovers gather in the centre of Reykjavík and enjoy a non-stop celebration of the best Icelandic musicians have to offer, as well as some choice international acts.

20 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Icelandic literature is also blossoming, especially the crime novels. Even though Iceland statistically has less than one murder per year, Icelandic masters of the Nordic Noir crime fiction have had their books translated in numerous languages and have enjoyed great success overseas. The visual arts are also well represented, with the National Gallery of Iceland as well as the Reykjavík Art Museum putting on ambitious exhibitions. The Reykjavík Art Museum operates in three different locations, each with a distinct spirit. A new and exciting addition to the Icelandic arts scene is the Marshall Building by Reykjavík’s old harbour district. The building is home to several operations dedicated to modern art, the Living Art Museum, the ambitious Kling & Bang gallery and the working studio of Danish/ Icelandic artist Ólafur Elíasson. Taking your time to get to know Reykajvík is well worth your time as the city’s powerful spirit and infinite charm will likely draw you in and never let you go.

REYKJAVÍK'S EXCURSIONS' REYKJAVÍK TOURS Reykjavík Grand Excursion On this tour, we will get the highlights of Iceland’s history and culture. Among the stops are Hallgrímskirkja church, Perlan with its 360° viewing deck, Höfði house where Reagan and Gorbachev met in 1986 to begin the process of ending the Cold War and the latest landmark in Reykjavík, Harpa Concert Hall. The guide will provide you with all the essential information regarding Reykjavík‘s rich culture, history and natural environment. The essential introduction to Iceland‘s capital!

Hop On - Hop Off Take a bus tour with City Sightseeing and explore Reykjavík at your leisure, with the opportunity to hop on and off at conveniently located bus stops. With the best of both worlds; a modern trendy and forward-looking city whilst at the same time being close to its unspoilt nature, Reykjavík truly is a magical place to behold.

Duck Tours - Coming Soon The newest addition to Reykjavik Excursions coming soon! Reykjavík Duck Tours provides a fun, amphibious, historical sightseeing tour of Reykjavík culminating in a splash into the Reykjavík Old Harbour.

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Most Icelanders live in Reykjavík or the surrounding area, which means that the rest of the country is sparsely populated – mostly wilderness with patches of farmland and a small town or a fishing village here and there. Exploring the Icelandic countryside is an adventure all on its own, with spectacular landscapes everywhere you look. If you have the time, renting a car and driving around Iceland is an experience you’ll never forget. Where to go One of the most popular destinations in Iceland is the south coast of Iceland. Not only are there beautiful natural wonders every few kilometres, the landscape is also varied and diverse. Black beaches meet verdant farmlands, volcanoes slumber underneath caps of glaciers and tall mountains cut off abruptly by flat coastal areas, waterfalls tumbling over the edges.

If you want to drive the road less travelled, consider visiting the Snæfellsnes peninsula on the west coast of Iceland. The area is like a microcosm of Iceland’s nature, with lava fields, black sand beaches, picturesque fishing villages and the Snæfellsjökull glacier watching over it all. Not only does the glacier play a part in world literature, as Jules Verne’s opening into the centre of the earth and the titular

glacier in Halldór Laxness’s Under the Glacier, it’s also been rumoured to be a favoured landing spots for aliens! Even closer to Reykjavík is the Reykjanes peninsula. You’ve already seen parts of it, as the Keflavík international airport is situated at the tip of the peninsula but there’s plenty more to be seen than the road from the airport. Rough lava fields, beautiful lakes, and geothermal areas with bubbling cauldrons of mud and water are well worth the drive! If you have the time (at least 4-5 days), you can drive the whole way around the country, discovering its many secrets and wonders along the way. Route 1, or the Ring Road, is a 1332 km (828 miles) looped road connecting most of the inhabited parts of Iceland. It roughly follows the coastline of Iceland, since most people in Iceland live within a short distance from the ocean - the bit in the middle is mostly mountainous wilderness.

Skógafoss

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Reykjanes

Reykjavik Excursions | 23

Do’s and don’ts while driving in Iceland Do make a roadtrip playlist. Extra points for including Icelandic music! Don’t stop or slow down on the road to take photos. Most roads with great views have intermittent scenic stops but in their absence, you should still find a safe place to park before you start shooting. Do look out for sheep in the summer. When driving lesser taken country roads, sometimes sheep and lambs hang out by the roadside.

Akureyri

Where to Stay Akureyri is the largest town in Iceland outside the Reykjavík area, with a population of just over 18.000. Attractions include a picturesque historical centre, an impressive art museum, a lively town centre with shops and cafés, and in winter, the best ski resort in Iceland. The surrounding area is beautiful, the lovely fishing villages of the Eyjafjörður coastline as well as the natural wonder that is the lake Mývatn area. Ísafjörður is the largest town in the Westfjords, the oldest and most sparsely populated part of Iceland. The landscapes on the way there and surrounding the town itself are incredible. Since there is so much space between human dwellings in this

Don’t forget to stop along the way, sometimes the unexpected detours can be a highlight of the trip. Look for the square with the looped corners, indicating interesting things ahead!

area, you often feel like the only person in the whole world. The local culture is unique since the Westfjords have always been a remote area, even by Icelandic standards, and the area surrounding Ísafjörður is a hiker’s paradise. Stykkishólmur was home to affluent Danish merchants in the past and the charming town centre is reminiscent of that time. Situated on the north coast of the Snæfellsnes peninsula, Stykkishólmur looks over the many islands and rocks of the Breiðafjörður fjord. Taking a cruise out among the islands is a lovely way to spend the day, as is visiting the many interesting museums in town. Don’t forget to drive out to the Snæfellsnes peninsula, exploring the tiny villages along the way.

Do remember your sunglasses, especially when driving late. During the height of summer, the sun doesn’t set but stays low in the sky. Don’t try to do everything if you don’t have the time. If you’re just here for a few days, consider exploring one area instead of driving all over the country, spending all your time in the car.

ENTERPRISE RENT-A-CAR Enterprise Rent A Car, one of the largest car rental companies in the world, joined forces with Reykjavik Excursions in 2014. The partnership was formed because of their shared belief in customer care, value and outstanding service in the ever-expanding Icelandic travel network. For over 45 years, Reykjavik Excursions has proudly served travellers keen on exploring Iceland. They offer their customers a chance to explore Iceland safely and economically on their own terms. Iceland has a reputation for being an exciting alternative destination for travellers looking for a different experience. Renting an Enterprise car allows visitors to explore our beautiful country at their own pace. The office is located at the BSÍ Bus Terminal in Reykjavík. Meet & greet service available at Keflavík International Airport.

Why choose Enterprise? »» Only the newest car models in all categories. »» Competitive prices. »» Unlimited mileage. »» Free hotel pick up within Reykavík city limits. »» 2 Flybus+ return tickets included with every rental. »» 24/7 breakdown service. »» The rental offices are located at the BSÍ Bus Terminal in Reykjavík and at the Keflavík International Airport.

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A Journey to the Center of the Earth and more Taking a glimpse of the wonders of Snæfellsnes Peninsula

If you only visit one part of Iceland outside Reykjavík, make it Snæfellsnes! The area is a microcosm of Iceland, easily reachable in a convenient Reykjavik Excursions day trip from Reykjavík. Prepare for majestic mountain views, black-sand beaches, a volcano and glacier rolled into one (a Volclacier? A Glaciano?) and, scattered around the scenery, quaint little towns full of stories. Snæfellsjökull - The Entrance to the Centre of the Earth The reigning king of Snæfellsnes landmarks is without a doubt Snæfellsjökull glacier, sitting atop an active volcano on the tip of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. The volcano is 700.000 years old and has erupted about 20 times since the last ice age. In his book, A Journey to the Centre of the Earth, Jules Verne used Snæfellsjökull as the point of entry through which Lidenbrock and his team start their journey. Closer to home, the glacier is also the backdrop and titular glacier in Nobel laureate Halldór Laxness’s Under the Glacier. In the park, among other things, you will find Djúpalónssandur beach, where you can test your strength with the three rocks, Strong, Full-Strong and Half-Strong. These were

used by sailors of ages past to compete in strength and the heaviest one is 154 kg! (339 pounds!)

Arnarstapi Arnarstapi is a partially abandoned fishing village which comes to life in the summertime, with fishermen sailing from the harbour and people spending their summers in local cottages. It has a camp ground, an inn, and a restaurant. Here you can hike around the surrounding area and enjoy the mind-blowing rock formations of the coastlines from the observation deck to which the RE tour will take you.

Stykkishólmur Stykkishólmur is a picturesque and beautiful fishing town with only 1100 inhabitants, although that number doubles

in the summertime, with all the fishermen and tourists. It serves as the centre of transportation for the area - it’s where you catch the ferry for Flatey Island and Brjánslækur in the Westfjords. The town has many wooden houses from the 19th and early 20th century. The oldest of these is the Norwegian House, built in 1832, which now houses the local folk museum. Stykkishólmur also has a volcano museum and a swimming pool, among other things. That’s just a few of the countless interesting things to see, not even mentioning the scattered little farms, the area’s rich history (the peninsula was where the Book of the Icelanders, one of the main historical sources of Iceland was written, as well as being the setting of the ancient Laxdæla), the magnificent Gerðuberg basalt columns, mountains like Helgafell and Hólahólar (the Hill-hills), and many other things. To learn more, book a trip and see for yourself! Tours of the whole area and all the sights are available through Reykjavik Excursions.

Reykjavik Excursions

BSI Bus Terminal, Vatnsmyrarvegur 10, 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 564 4776 www.re.is 26 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

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Icelandic Lopapeysa Puffins, volcanoes, Northern Lights and blond people in lopapeysas. That’s a stereotypical image of Iceland, but for the most part, it’s actually pretty accurate, (even if the blond part tends to be bottled). Almost everyone has a lopapeysa, the woollen sweater with the circular pattern around the shoulders. It’s really no wonder, they’re warm, pretty, and as quintessentially Icelandic as it gets.

Even though the lopapeysas are important to Icelanders, they haven’t really been around for as long as you would think. In fact, there are probably plenty of Icelanders who think it’s an older tradition than it really is. The truth is that even though people have been making woollen sweaters in Iceland since settlement times, the lopapeysas, with their distinctive style and fabric, have only been produced in this way since around the middle of the 20th century! For a sweater to qualify as an Icelandic lopapeysa, it must be made from Icelandic wool, specifically lopi (more on that later), be knitted in a certain style and have a specific type of pattern. 30 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Lopi (The Wool) Icelandic wool comes from sheep, just like any other wool. So, what makes it so special? The answer is: the Icelandic sheep. Ever since the first sheep were brought over by the settlers, Icelandic sheep have been bred in isolation, retaining some qualities that have been lost elsewhere. For instance, their fleece consists of two different layers, made up of different fibres. The outer layer is made of coarse long hairs that are hardy and almost waterproof, while the inner layer consists of soft warm fibres that keep the sheep warm. When these two types of fibres intertwine, the result is warm, lightweight material, that also happens to be water repellent.

It’s not just the fleece that makes the wool for the lopapeysas different, it’s also the production method. Lopi is unspun wool and for a long time it was only considered a stage in yarn production, an incomplete raw material, especially since knitting machines can’t use lopi. All authentic lopapeysas are therefore handknitted. The airiness of the unspun wool is part of what makes the sweaters so warm, so make sure the sweater you’re getting is 100% lopi.

The Knitting Style One of the reasons that the sweaters became so popular is that they’re easy to knit and can be knitted relatively fast. The sweaters are knitted on circular knitting needles, from the bottom up, and the Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

sleeves are knitted onto the sweater with the pattern. When the sweater has been knitted, the only thing left to do is to hide two ends and sew the armpits shut, making the whole process pleasantly simple. If you feel like trying your hand at knitting a lopapeysa, you can get a prepared kit with everything you might need at the Handknitting Association’s stores.

The Patterns The circular border of pattern around the shoulders is the most striking thing about the Icelandic lopapeysa. Although the sweaters were pioneered only a few decades ago, no one really knows who came up with the design. Some knitting pioneers have been named as the pioneers of the lopapeysa but as with most things, the truth is probably a little more complicated. The most prevalent explanation of the lopapeysa is that the design was an organic process with roots in the trends and evolving styles of the Icelandic knitting community in the 20th century, borrowing from knitting styles of Greenland, the Faroe Islands and the Hebrides. There are several classic patterns that are popular but knitters also have a creative license, the only requirement is that the sweater has a circular pattern around the shoulders. Some sweaters have a simple pattern around the waist and wrists as well, but that’s optional. In many cases, the patterns We’ll take you there!

are inspired by traditional Icelandic patterns, Icelandic nature, or even folklore, but some of the first patterns were also inspired by Greenlandic and even South American patterns, seen in books.

Icelandic Artisans The thing about lopapeysas is that because the lopi is unspun, it’s very difficult to knit it in machines. That’s why the lopapeysa is traditionally knitted by hand. Many Icelandic knitters knit lopapeysas for sale and export and in 1977, the Handknitting Association of Iceland was founded. By marketing and selling the lopapeysas themselves, the knitters could have more control over the sales of their products and ensure that only the highest quality garments were being sold as the Icelandic lopapeysa. To this day, the knitters of the Handknitting Association sell their beautiful wares out of their Skólavörðustígur 19 store and their Laugavegur 53b location as well as online (www.handknit.is). They have a pretty impressive selection of the woollen goods in stock, but you can also have things custom made in a short period of time. If you’re interested in knitting a lopapeysa yourself, the store at Skólavörðustígur has everything you might need for that needles, patterns, and most importantly, Lopi wool.

Handknitting Association

Skólavörðustígur 19, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 552 1890 www.handknit.is Reykjavik Excursions | 31

A Cup of Coffee & Something Sweet A cup of coffee needs a sweet treat like a hot dog needs toppings. You could go without, but what would be the point? That’s where biscuits come in, or as Icelanders call them, kex (originally a Danish bastardisation of the English word “cakes”). Early in the morning, it might be a biscuit served with butter and cheese and in the afternoon, a cream filled biscuit or a chocolate covered one. Whatever the biscuit, chances are it comes from the Frón biscuit factory, which has been making Icelanders favourite biscuits for the past 90 years! Would You Like a Sæmundur? Imagine this. You’re invited to have a nice cup of coffee with an Icelandic family, you sit down and somebody asks if you would like a bite of a Sæmundur wearing his fancy clothes. Horrified, you turn your looks to the father of the family, who not only isn’t particularly dressed up but also seems to be gently nudging a bowl of biscuits your way. Also, you don’t recall his name being Sæmundur. Confused? Don’t be. A dressed up Sæmundur (Sæmundur í sparifötunum) is simply a nickname for a biscuit, namely the cream-filled vanilla biscuit Kremkex. It gets its name for being just a little bit fancier than the plain workhorse Matarkex biscuit, known simply as Sæmundur. The biscuits both get their name from a factory manager at Frón during the middle of the century, whose name was Sæmundur.

A Purely Geometrical Biscuit Rivalry Another peculiarity of the Icelandic biscuit culture is the rivalry between Mjólkurkex and Matarkex. Ask any Icelander and they’ll tell you which biscuit they love and which

32 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

they loathe. The weird thing is, they taste the same and are made from the exact same ingredients, the only difference is the shape! Mjólkurkex is square but Matarkex is round. This fact seems to be lost on most Icelanders, who will loudly proclaim one infinitely superior to the other, in flavour, texture, shape, and packaging design.

Modern Times Frón is still at it, making the biscuits that have been dipped in Icelanders’ coffee for almost a century. Mjólkurkex is the bestseller – Icelanders consume 260 tonnes of it every year – but Matarkex, Kremkex and Póló, a chocolate covered coconut biscuit, are popular as well. The factory operates in much the same way it has for the past decades, the same machines they had in the 1970’s stamping the familiar Frón logo into the biscuits. Despite their adherence to traditions, the people of Frón aren’t resting on their laurels. They produce several brands of biscuits in their factory and are continuously coming up with new and fresh takes on the classic biscuit.

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Snapshots from Reykjavik Excursions Tours

Reynisdrangar More like this on pages 9-10.

Blue Lagoon More like this on pages 15-16.

Perlan More like this on pages 19-20.

Gunnuhver More like this on pages 23-24.

Geysir More like this on pages 6-7.

Jรถkulsรกrlรณn More like this on pages 12-13.

On a glacier More like this on pages 12-13.

Travel Iceland On Your Own Iceland On Your Own (IOYO) is a simple, convenient, flexible and affordable way of getting around Iceland. It’s a system of bus routes all over the country that are bookable either individually or in different, extra-affordable packages, called passports. Passports mean you can hop on and off the bus at your leisure, making for an extremely flexible itinerary. The balance between reliability and flexibility makes IOYO an ideal mode of transportation for more independent and self-reliant people - a bit like Interrail for Iceland, without the trains. The buses are modern and comfortable and the fleet includes 4X4 coaches capable of traversing the difficult roads of the highlands, making you free as a (flightless) bird! All of the routes in the south have an audioguide, and some of the routes in the North have a guide-guide, so in a manner of speaking, you’re getting both transportation and a tour.

There and Back Again One of the most popular destinations for our more adventurous travellers is the ‘Mountain’s back’, or Fjallabak area north of Mt. Eyjafjallajökull volcano, in the south of Iceland. This includes the Fimmvörðuháls hike, from Skógar to Þórsmörk, and the Laugavegur hike from Þórsmörk to Landmannalaugar. One issue with this hike is the transport

– if you drive to Skógar and hike to Landmannalaugar, are you going to hike the whole way back again to get to your car? And are you going to pay for a rental car to be parked somewhere for 3 days? The Highland Hiker’s Passport is an easy solution to these issues. It takes you once from Reykjavík out to either Skógar, Þórsmörk or Landmannalaugar, and once back to the city from any of the three locations. (Just to be clear, it does not mean that you can hop on and off those buses all summer. Once out, once back, that’s what you get.) The specially outfitted 4X4 coaches can handle the rough roads to Landmannalaugar and ford the rivers on the way to Þórsmörk, so you can just sit back and enjoy the wild ride.

One Ring-Road That Totally Rules You may have heard the famous rumour that Iceland only has one road. While that’s technically untrue, it’s a fact that Route 1 is by far the longest and most used road, and

it does circle the whole way around the main part of the island. With the Circle Passport you get to go once round the merry-go-round. You can get off wherever you want and back on again, until you get back to where you started from. Definitely recommended for those who want to see the major sights in a convenient, affordable and flexible way.

Other Passports The Highland Pass takes you in a circle, to the north of Iceland along mountain road Kjölur, and then south along Sprengisandur, along the south coast and back to ReykjavÌk, hopping on and off as you please along the way. The Highlights Pass includes a wider area and some of Iceland’s most beautiful natural wonders, where you can travel back and forth along the chosen routes for 7 or 15 days. The Beautiful South Pass and the Beautiful South Circle Pass allow you to explore the south coast of Iceland, either back and forth along your chosen route for a fixed period of days or along a fixed route within a flexible timeframe. The Combo Pass is like the Highlights Pass, but includes all the travel you can do on ALL the IOYO routes, for either 7, 11 or 15 days. So whether you’re a young backpacker, out for some fun with your family, a rugged hiker, adventurous retiree, whether you’re here with friends, loved ones or on your own, if you’re looking for the hidden places off the beaten track or just the tried and tested highlights of Iceland, Iceland On Your Own has something to offer you in a convenient, customizable and cost-effective way. Check out their offering today and find the package you need!

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The History of Iceland in 10 Short Steps

16-18 Million Years Ago: The Formation of Iceland Iceland lies on the intersection of the American and Eurasian tectonic plates. When they started drifting apart, around 16 million years ago, it caused a major volcanic eruption, resulting in the creation of Iceland! Even today, the island still sits on a volcanic hotspot, creatively named, ‘The Iceland Plume’ - resulting in a multitude of earthquakes every year and volcanic eruptions every few years as well.

871 AD: The Settlement of Iceland A Norwegian named Ingólfur Arnarsson killed a man and was exiled from his home country. He sailed to a legendary land in the west with two ships. People from the Nordics engaged in a massive land grab in this uninhabited country, taking with them Irish slaves, resulting in a Norse-Celtic mix of genes in Iceland. Thanks to the almost obsessive fixation of early Icelanders with genealogy, most modern Icelanders can still trace their family lines back to this time. As a matter of fact, Icelanders can look up their entire family history on a single website, and they even have an app called Íslendingabók that makes sure they don’t date their (close) relatives.

930 AD: Parliament Established Being a land of renegades and runaways with no king, some system of government had to be instituted. The people of Iceland went ahead and created Alþing (all-thing-ee), the oldest democratic parliament that still exists today. In each area there was a chieftain (Goði), a political and religious leader. Every summer, all the chieftains would meet at Þingvellir (Parliament Fields) to discuss laws and settle disputes. Every year, the law speaker, standing on top of the Law Rock, would say a third of the law, completely from memory. This way, the whole law was heard every three years.

Iceland is a proud nation with a rich history. From the world’s oldest democratic parliament, to an economic crash of unprecedented size, Icelanders have a lot to boast about, and they‘re usually not shy to do so. Here we present, for the first time ever, the complete, not-reallyunabridged History of Iceland, in just 10 short items. This is your unique chance to read up on major events in the history of Iceland, without having to sift through thousands of pages. Now...Let‘s start at the very beginning.

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The law was later written down in the book Grágás, which still exists today. Contained therein are practical laws, such as the penalty for your pet polar bear killing someone. The parliament functions to this day, uninterrupted aside from a period of 45 years from 1800 to 1845.

1000 AD: Conversion to Christianity, Discovery of America Until the tenth century, the predominant religion in Iceland was Ásatrú, the worship of the Norse gods, Óðinn, Þór and the like. In the 980’s Christian missionaries started spreading the faith, leading to violent confrontations. The

Reykjavik Excursions | 39

two factions asked Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði Þorkelsson to mediate. He lay under a bear hide for a day and a night eventually coming to the conclusion that Iceland should be a Christian country. However, worshipping the old gods was allowed as long as you didn’t do it in public! Iceland remained Roman Catholic until 1540, when it converted to Lutheran Protestantism. The Catholic bishops Jón Arason and Ögmundur Pálsson violently opposed the reformation. That opposition came to an abrupt end with the beheading of Jón Arason in 1550. The year 1000 is also when Leif ‘The Lucky’ Ericson discovered America, or ‘Wine-land’ as he called it. He was planning on sailing to Greenland, but was blown off course to the west, where he saw land. He later sailed there and attempted to settle, but gave it up after conflicts with the locals. These and other stories are written down in the sagas of the Icelanders, an extensive body of 13th century writings.

1262 AD: Iceland Submits to Norway In the years leading up to 1262, the Icelandic chieftains gradually became more and more powerful, until the whole country was in a state of constant civil war between 7 powerful

clans. In order to end to the war, the leaders submitted peacefully to Haakon IV, king of Norway. The story is preserved in saga of the Sturlungs, written down as the events were taking place or shortly after. Later, in the 14th century, the Kingdoms of Norway, Denmark and Sweden became one kingdom, and when they split up again Iceland somehow wound up under Danish rule. Even today Icelanders are confused and even a little sore about the whole situation.

1602: Monopoly (not the fun kind) In the 1500s, English and German fishermen and traders set up posts in Iceland and traded with the Icelanders. Seeing a mutually beneficial situation which brought prosperity to his subjects, Christian IV King of Denmark naturally decided he wasn’t having it. He granted exclusive rights to trade in Iceland to certain merchants. It is hard to overstate how devastating this decision was. The prices were fixed and the system led to economic stagnation in Iceland until the monopoly was abolished in 1786.

The 1750s: The Enlightenment and the Birth of Reykjavík Until the middle of the 1750s, Reykjavík was just a single farm, and Iceland had no towns or villages of any kind. Sheriff Skúli Magnússon was a man of the enlightenment. He picked Reykjavík to become the centre of modernization, and pioneered the building of wool workshop buildings, one of which still stands, on Aðalstræti 10. This marked the beginning of Iceland’s rise out of the dark ages.

1845 AD: The Re-Establishment of the Parliament and the Independence Movement The enlightenment came to Iceland, and with it, nationalism. Chief among the Icelandic independence campaigners was

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Jón Sigurðsson, whose birthday, June 17th, was later chosen as the Icelandic Independence day. The movement led to the re-establishment of the Icelandic parliament as an advisory body to the king in 1845. This was followed by home rule in 1905, sovereignty in 1918 and independence in 1944, when Denmark was too busy being invaded by Germany to do much about it.

20th Century: The World Wars and Modernization Industry and urbanization was growing, but Iceland had quite a lot of catching up to do. 1900-1910 saw such novelties as electricity, the first car and the first trawler, which marked the beginning of the stillimportant fishing industry. In the world wars, selling products to the allies and servicing the American occupying force brought an economic boom and cultural influence, such as TV and jazz. This catapulted Iceland into the 20th century and still today the Icelandic culture has an incredible fascination for new and foreign things, technology and culture.

21st century: Crash and Miraculous Recovery Since the 1950s, Iceland’s economy was characterized by rather high inflation. In the late 1990s, the commercial banking system was privatized and the law was changed to ease restrictions on trade. Following an incredible growth in everything financial, the bubble finally burst in a spectacular manner, in October 2008. The currency of Iceland, the Króna, fell by 50% overnight. People lost their jobs, their houses, and their livelihood and finally to top it all, McDonalds left the country. Since then, Iceland has caught the attention of the international community because of how quickly the economy has recovered. Industry is booming (especially the tourism industry), unemployment is low and wages and prices are rising again.

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

ora.is

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New & improved recipes

Harpa In just a few years, Iceland has been transformed from ‘Europe’s best kept secret’ to the travelling destination of choice. Despite its modest population numbers, Reykjavík is attracting crowds like never before. A feature in this transformation was the redevelopment of Reykjavík’s harbour area from a fishing port into a cultural and entertainment district. Its focal point and crown jewel is without a doubt Harpa Concert Hall and Conference Centre. Home of the Iceland Symphony Orchestra, the Icelandic Opera and the Reykjavík Big Band, located right in the heart of the colourful and charming city centre. Designed by Danish architectural firm, Henning Larsen, Danish-Icelandic artist,

Ólafur Elíasson and Icelandic architectural firm, Batteríið, with Vladimir Ashkenazy as the artistic advisor, their plan was to create a cultural centre for the entire northern hemisphere. Living up to its role, Harpa offers an ambitious year-round programme of cultural events. During the summer months guests can enjoy daily concerts like Reykjavík Classics, featuring live classical music performed by artist of the highest caliber as well as Pearls of Icelandic Song,

a classical Icelandic music programme consisting of some of the most beloved folk-songs and hymns. Both concerts take place in one of the ten best concert halls of the new millennium, Eldborg (according to Gramophone magazine). How to Become Icelandic in 60 minutes is a popular show performed daily as well as Icelandic Sagas, a 75 minute theatrical comedy roller coaster ride through Iceland’s literary heritage, in English! Múlinn Jazz Club plays weekly, every Wednesday night in Björtuloft hall, offering world class performance along with the greatest harbour view in Reykjavik. Guests can also participate in a guided tour, every day, on the hour, between ten till five in the afternoon. The tour provides exclusive access to restricted areas and hidden corners of Harpa - and the opportunity to photograph this architectural gem from new intriguing angles. Enjoy a visit to Harpa and experience Icelandic culture at its best.

Harpa

Austurbakki 2, 101 Reykjavík, Iceland Tel: (+354) 528 5000 Tickets: (+354) 528 5050 42 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Harpa Walk Guided Tours Daily Jun 27 – Aug 16 Every 60 mins. from 10–17 1,500 ISK

30 mInS.

Aug 17 – Jun 26 Weekdays 15:30 Weekends 11:00, 15:30

Harpa — Reykjavík Concert Hall and Conference Centre

45 mInS.

www.harpa.is @harpareykjavik

Box Office +354 528 5050

Brandenburg | sía

2,200 ISK

THE HOME OF ICELANDIC SEAFOOD AND LAMB APOTEK Kitchen+Bar is a casual-smart restaurant located in one of Reykjavíks most historical buildings. We specialize in fresh seafood, lamb and local ingredients prepared with a modern twist. OPEN 11:30–23:30 Mondays – Thursdays 11:30–00:00 Fridays and Saturdays 12:00–23:00 Sundays APOTEK KITCHEN+BAR

Austurstræti 16

101 Reykjavík

apotek.is

ICELANDIC SEAFOOD makes world’s best sushi The best of Icelandic produce with a nod to Japan and South America. Modern Icelandic flavours, share plates and award winning cocktails. Our kitchen is open 17.00–23.00 sun.–thu. 17.00–24.00 fri.–sat.

SOCIALIZE WITH THE LOCALS

Sushi Social Þingholtsstræti 5 • 101 Reykjavík Tel 568 6600 • sushisocial.is

Got Questions?

What’s On has the Answers!

Travelling to an unknown place is one of the most exciting things you can do. Witnessing a culture and nature you’ve never experienced before is a truly profound experience. It also poses some difficulties. If you don’t do your homework, you can end up missing the experience of a lifetime. So, what can you do about it? The best thing to do is to ask a local! Stop by the What’s On office at Laugavegur 5 and get some advice. What should I eat? One of the most difficult questions when you’re in a strange land is what to eat. It’s easy to fall back on the chain restaurants you recognise from back home but you’d be missing out on trying Iceland’s excellent seafood and the many restaurants that serve it. The What’s On staff know all the best places around town to eat at and can point you in the right direction according to your preferences. Want to try puffin, whale, horse or langoustine? They know the best places to do that too!

We’ll take you there!

What should I do while I'm here? Want to see a waterfall or maybe an erupting geyser? Want to ride an Icelandic horse or perhaps you’d prefer a snowmobile ride on a glacier? Maybe you just want to fly over the island in a plane or a helicopter? Not only do the staff at What’s on know all the most beautiful spots in Iceland, they also know the easiest ways to get there! If you want to take a tour, rent a car, or take the bus, the staff at What’s on will help you find your way.

Reykjavik Excursions | 45

Okay, but what should I do tonight? Reykjavík is a vibrant city with a plenty of good music (both high- and lowbrow), art exhibitions and other events. There’s always something going on and the people at What’s On stay up to date on the city’s event schedule. The office at Laugavegur 5 has an event calendar that’s updated every day and the What’s On website has an even more detailed event calendar. You should have no problem finding out where Iceland’s hottest bands are playing or when there are theatre shows in English!

That sounds great, can they just tell me what to do for my entire stay here? Yes, they can! If you’d like, the staff at What’s On can prepare a schedule for your whole stay here and book it for you. Just tell them what you’d like to do (or let them tell you what you should do) and you don’t have to worry about a thing for the rest of your stay.

I don't really need to go on any tours, I'd just like to know where the nearest currency exchange/ supermarket/swiming pool is Well, if you’d stop by the What’s On, they’ll not only tell you that the easiest and cheapest way to exchange money in Iceland 46 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

is to go to a bank, they’ll also answer all your other questions, no matter how small. For exchanging money, there’s a bank right at the airport so the process should be quick and painless. If you need a bank in the city, the What’s On staff will also happily point you towards the nearest bank, supermarket, and/or swimming pool.

I want to know how I should behave while I'm here. Should I tip in a restaurant? What's harðfiskur? How do i greet people? Of course, the good people at What’s On have the answers to this as well! What’s more, they’d be delighted to share their knowledge (if you’re curious, the answers are: you don’t have to, delicious dried fish chips, and Góðan daginn).

Basically, if you’re looking for information about Iceland or the Icelanders, just come on by the What’s On information office at Laugavegur 5! What’s On Laugavegur 5, 101 Reykjavík +354 551-3600 | www.whatson.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

A RARE, ONCE-INA-LIFETIME OPPORTUNITY Around, on and deep within the awesome Langjökull ice gap glacier. Into the Glacier offers various tours to the World's largest ice tunnel. The ice tunnel and caves are located high on Iceland’s second largest glacier, Langjökull. Daily departures from Klaki base camp, Húsafell center and from Reykjavik.

You can choose from various tours and book online at www.intotheglacier.is Tel: +354 578-2550

7 Things You Didn't Know About the Puffin

The puffin, with his colourful beak and comical strut has proven popular with visitors to Iceland. Iceland has some of the largest colonies of Atlantic puffin in the world so if you’re a bird enthusiast in Iceland for the summer, consider taking a tour to sail out and see these curious creatures with your own eyes. 1 They mate for life Puffins uphold the bird version of conservative family values; they mate for life, raise their single puffling over the course of the summer and return every year to their same nesthole.

2 They’re easy prey for predators on land, which is why they usually nest on islands. Predators like foxes, weasels, cats and dogs don’t reach them on the islands around Iceland or out at sea during the wintertime. Actually, the puffins’ most threatening natural predator is homo sapiens. Puffin is still hunted for food and eaten, fresh or smoked. If you're curious to try it, many restaurants in Reykjavík serve puffin.

3 They’re great swimmers, but clumsy flyers Puffins are graceful on the water, swimming and diving for fish in smooth, natural motions. In the air, however, they look like they’re ready to fall out of the sky at any moment, flying with jerking motions and crash-landing. 48 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

4 They spend most of their life at sea. The puffins are pelagic birds which means that they spend more than half the year far out at sea. They are well suited to life on the sea and mostly eat fish. They only return to their holes to breed from April to August.

7 They’re not our national bird. That honour belongs to the infinitely more graceful, if less likable, gyrfalcon. For a while the falcon was even represented in the national crest. The national order of Iceland, awarded by the president is the Order of the Falcon.

5 They dig holes instead of making nests, which sometimes can be up to a metre deep! Puffins are seabirds and tend to live where trees don’t. They dig holes instead of making nests, up to a metre deep. They sometimes even use old rabbit holes if there are any rabbits in the area.

6 Their beaks are impressive The multic-coloured beaks that the puffins sport for the mating seasons have, in some parts of the world, earned them the nickname of sea parrot or even sea clown. In Iceland they have a more dignified moniker, they 're called provosts because their pompous manner and walk reminds people of senior church officials. Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

WWW.SEAFOODGRILL.IS — TEL: +354 571 1100 SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGUR 14 - 101 REYKJAVÍK

THE FIVE MOST

INSTAGRAM

WORTHY SPOTS

OUTSIDE

REYKJAVIK

Jökulsárlón The still water, the blue and black icebergs and the gravelly sand banks surrounding the Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon make sure that this place is Instagram gold!

Geysir (or more accurately, Strokkur) it’s an erupting geyser, of course it’s going to look amazing in photographs. It erupts every 6-8 minutes so be ready with your finger on that camera button!

Hraunfossar Waterfalls always make for good photos but waterfalls that stream out from underneath lava fields and flow over smooth red cliffs will earn you extra points!

Þingvellir This place has an impressive history but what’s even more impressive are the cliffs flanking the rift between the tectonic plates, where the land is ever so slowly pulling apart. We’ll take you there!

Skógafoss This beautiful waterfall on the south coast of Iceland, tumbling over a cliff onto the gravelly plains below, looks like what all the little waterfalls want to be when they grow up. Reykjavik Excursions | 51

THE FIVE MOST

INSTAGRAM

WORTHYSPOTS

INSIDE REYKJAVIK

Hallgrímskirkja Hallgrímskirkja is the most recognisable landmark in Reykjavík. Not only does it look good from the street; the view from the top is incomparable!

The Pond The pond is a tiny lake in the centre of the city. It’s almost impossible to take a bad photo of the pond, it looks good from every angle and in every weather!

Sólfarið The metal sculpture inspired by a Viking longboat, with a backdrop of the ocean and Mount Esja is one of the most photogenic spots in Reykjavík.

Harpa The Reykjavík concert hall is a new addition to the Reykjavík cityscape but makes up for lack of history by consistently looking impressive and pretty.

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Perlan Perlan is a great spot for views of Reykjavík and the peculiar architecture makes for a solid Instagram photo, instantly recognisable as taken in Reykjavík.

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From City Lights to Super Jeeps by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir & Rögnvaldur Guðmundsson

Have you ever been on top of a glacier? You won’t believe this magical realm of white plains above the world. There isn’t a better way to explore it than the excitement and comfort of a snowmobile. Snowmobiles are great fun and easy to operate. All the Mountaineers’ snowmobiles are two seated touring sleds with hand warmers and a high windshield. Mountaineers of Iceland is a fully-licensed travel agency, specialising in super trucks and snowmobile tours. The company has been operating adventure tours since 1996 and offers open day tours as well as private tailor-made tours for groups

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of all sizes. Careful planning, flexibility, entertainment and safety are top priorities. Whatever your idea or wish might be, Mountaineers will make it happen.

The Pearl Tour One of the most popular day tours is The Pearl Tour. In this tour, you get the opportunity to experience some of Iceland’s most famous and exciting natural phenomena in a super jeep. This tour takes you on the Golden Circle and to an unforgettable snowmobile ride. One of the stops is Þingvellir National Park where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates can be seen separating from each other. From there you will head to Geysir hot spring and Gullfoss (The Golden

Waterfall). To top it all off, you drive from Gullfoss Waterfall up to Langjökull glacier, Europe’s second largest glacier, for an unforgettable snowmobile tour. If you have a knack for adventure and the need for speed, this day trip offers Iceland’s best. Everybody is allowed to go at their own pace to start with and if you would rather double up with your partner and sit in the back, the experience will still provide you with something to share with your grandchildren. If you are on a tight schedule while staying in our beautiful country, the Express Activity Tour might be more suitable for you. It includes transfer from Reykjavík up to Langjökull glacier where we gear up for a snowmobile adventure. Riding Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

a snowmobile over the second largest glacier in Europe, what more can you ask for? The tour Meet us at Gullfoss is perfect for those who have their own transportation and want to top off their day with something extra special. There are daily departures from Gullfoss Café up to our base camp at Langjökull glacier and the professional guides will take you on a snowmobile adventure in the Icelandic highlands, giving you the most amazing views of the majestic glacier and its surroundings.

That's just the beginning Mountaineers offer a wide variety of tours including truck tours, super jeep excursions, combinations with other activities and more! Mountaineers own and operate super- and monster trucks which have been specially modified to reach glaciers and other remote locations by the rugged mountain tracks of the Icelandic highlands. In addition to the Pearl Tour and the Express Activity Tour, there is, for instance, the Þórsmörk & the South Coast Tour. This tour takes you, as the name implies, to the south coast of Iceland and to Þórsmörk which is considered by many to be Iceland‘s most beautiful place. The journey commences by driving in a modified super jeep along the south shore. On the way, you make a stop at the waterfall Seljalandsfoss where you can take the path behind the falls and gaze through Seljalandsfoss into the distance beyond. Then you head north to the highlands of Þórsmörk—a virtually untouched wilderness of magnificent mountains and unbridged rivers. It’s a wild ride! For those who would like to go on a romantic and adventurous tour in our remarkable country, the Midnight Sun tour is perfect. The Midnight Sun Tour takes you in the comfort of a super jeep to Langjökull

We’ll take you there!

glacier where you will enjoy a snowmobile tour in the golden glow of the midnight sun. From May and through August the skies radiate with shades of pink and gold through the night. The sun only sets for a few magical moments, casting an illuminating glow during dusk. There’s something strangely exotic about a place so close to the pole that the sun refuses to set for a chunk of the year. The vast glacier reflects these subtle sunbeams, setting the stage for memories you will cherish forever.

strictest safety standards are always employed. All participants are provided with necessary gear like warm overalls, helmets, overshoes and gloves.

Everyone engaged in Mountaineers of Iceland activity service operations has extensive experience in the tourism industry and activity operations and the

Mountaineers of Iceland

Remember to bring your camera with you We recommend Mountaineers of Iceland for anyone who is looking to take a step out of ordinary life and experience Iceland’s majestic nature up close.

Köllunarklettsvegur 2, 104 Reykjaík Tel: +354 580 9900 www.mountaineers.is Reykjavik Excursions | 55

How to Connect to Iceland’s Viking Past in Five Easy Steps

What is the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Iceland? Björk, volcanic eruptions, and heaps of snow? Well, you wouldn’t be too far off, but what about the Vikings? Iceland’s settlers were mostly Vikings and even though that was a long time ago, elements from their culture still linger in the Icelandic heritage. Worship the Norse Gods These days, people are more likely to recognise Thor, Odin and Loki as characters from a Marvel movie, but we had them first! The Norse gods who inspired the comics were the gods of the first settlers to Iceland, and although Icelanders as a nation converted to Christianity in the year 1000 AD, the Norse gods still have a thriving group of believers today keeping the old customs alive. Also, even if you don’t believe in the Norse gods, the stories of their escapades can be pretty entertaining!

Feed a raven Ravens have a special spot in Iceland’s mythology and folklore. Likely stemming from Odin’s special connection to his ravens, Huginn and Muninn, Icelanders have always had respect for the raven. Icelandic superstitions claim that feeding scraps to ravens during winter can be a good insurance scheme. In folk tales, ravens often repay the kindness by warning their benefactors of impending avalanches or other natural disasters.

Write a poem! Icelandic Vikings weren’t just known for violence, but also their poetry. In fact, their lyrical skills were no less revered than skills

on the battlefield! Writing a poem for a king could save you from execution or get you banished from his territory, depending on the poem’s quality. In these modern times, fighting, raping, and pillaging is heavily discouraged, but writing poetry is very much encouraged, so to get in touch with your inner Viking, find a quill and some calf skin and get scribbling!

Visit Viking Remains It’s been a long time since the Vikings lived in Iceland but there are still some remnants of that time left. Museums in Iceland contain relics from the Viking past, swords and bones for example, and you can even take a look at the ruins of a Viking longhouse in the oldest part of Reykjavík. However, the most important treasures from the Viking age are not jewels or buildings, but the manuscripts, revealing the history of the Viking settlers here in Iceland.

restaurant in the Reykjavík area. Their Viking feasts are not to be missed and in January, they even serve a classic Icelandic Þorrablót (a feast of traditional Icelandic food)! To cap it all off, the restaurant has live entertainment almost every night! The accommodation is lovely as well and a great way to immerse yourself in the Viking culture. Both the hotel rooms and the Viking cottages are designed to evoke the spirit of the Vikings without sacrificing any modern conveniences. You’ll sleep like a baby and hopefully dream of an age gone by, when the Vikings roamed the land.

Head over to the Viking village What better way to get in touch with your inner Viking than to eat like a Viking, drink like a Viking and sleep like a Viking! The Viking village in Hafnarfjörður has been keeping the Viking spirit alive for the past couple of decades and shows no signs of stopping. They have the only Viking themed

The Viking Village The Fisherman’s Village

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Strandgata 55, 220 Hafnafjörður Tel: +354 565 1213 | www.vikingvillage.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Harpa Concert Hall sinfonia.is harpa.is (+354) 528 50 50

Main sponsor:

@icelandsymphony / #sinfo

Our Dearest Dairy Product Traditional Icelandic cuisine doesn’t have the best reputation (fermented shark, anyone?) but we’ve still got a few aces up our sleeves, products that are delicious even to the most discerning palates. Skyr (pronounced skeer) is a unique Icelandic dairy product that’s been a staple food in our country for over a thousand years. It is still enjoyed daily by Icelanders, in various shapes and form, renowned for its high protein content and smooth texture. Provisions of history This deliciously healthy snack has been a large part of the Icelandic diet since the first settlers brought it with them around the year 1000. It’s even mentioned in the Sagas of the Icelanders. The skyr-making process is similar to cheese-making, but the end result is a smooth dairy product with a tangy, slightly sweet taste, reminiscent of Greek yoghurt. Its versatility and nutritional qualities have made this creamy delicacy popular with Icelanders throughout history. It’s available in the classic, unflavoured variety, but the flavoured and sweetened versions are also very popular, especially as a convenient snack. Skyr’s flavour and texture have always had their fans but, in recent years, skyr has gotten some new followers, thanks to the growing popularity of fitness, body-building

and overall healthy lifestyles. Skyr is not only delicious, it’s high-protein/low-fat combination has made it an indispensable part of any health-oriented Icelander.

A low calorie breakfast, lunch, dinner and desert For people who want to restrict their calorie intake but still eat well and maintain a balanced diet, skyr is a natural choice. Unflavoured, unsweetened skyr is a great substitute for mayonnaise, crème fraiche or yoghurt in cold dips and oven dishes. Although, mind you, serving it with cream and lots of sugar, like my grandparents prefer it, might put a damper on the dieting aspect of things. Children love it and for most of us, skyr was probably one of the first solid foods we ever tasted. Speaking of children, I came home from work the other day, famished as

usual, and immediately started rummaging through the refrigerator for something to ease my suffering. A can of Skyr was what I found, perfect, round, cold, ready to help me survive until dinner time. I opened the can, took one, oh so gratifying, spoonful before leaving the can on the kitchen table to go answer the phone. When I came back (no more than two minutes later) I found my three-year-old son with my spoon in his hand, smiling ear to ear, telling me proudly that he had finished all of “his” food. Bless him.

Fresh from the Arctic This beloved product of ours is made from the best ingredients: milk farmed in the fresh green pastures near the Arctic Circle where the water is pure and nature is unspoilt. The modern-day processing technique is 100% natural, based on the original principles, using a thousand-year-old recipe and milk from the same cow breed, the colourful settlement cow. Until a few years ago, Skyr was only available in Iceland. This has changed in recent years since Skyr is now produced in Denmark, Sweden and Norway under licence agreements from Iceland and exported to Finland. It’s proven popular in our neighbouring countries and sales are steadily growing. This is really a lovely example of how life runs in circles since the original Icelandic settlers indeed came from Norway, and along with them, in all likelihood, the recipe for what has been a cornerstone of Icelandic diet for centuries.

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Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Celebrating Design Bringing style to Iceland since 1975 Epal is lovingly familiar to Icelanders. It was founded more than 40 years ago when young Eyjólfur Pálsson returned from studying furniture design in Copenhagen. He soon realised that Icelanders didn’t have access to quality design items like he was used to. It was this shortage that led to the founding of Epal.

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Once upon a time ...

has evolved over the years to conform to Because the Industrial Revolution started the standards of modernity. Epal has always late in Scandinavia, Swedish, Finnish, and strived to offer the best of Scandinavian Danish designers created modern design design at any given time. Famous items using traditional materials such as The Egg and and handcrafts back in the Series 7 by Arne This is the sort of store early 20th century. That Jakobsen, PH 5 by use of easily available Poul Henningsen and you can always walk out of types of wood and feeling like you have invested in timeless giftware traditional craftsmanship by Iittala and Georg beauty and style. is a continuing trend in Jensen have been Scandinavian design. available in Epal for Scandinavian furniture decades. The list of is of a unique and stimulating class and design items available is extremely long this widely known common term applies to and interesting. This is the sort of store you furniture from Sweden, Denmark, Norway, can always walk out of feeling like you have Finland and Iceland. This type of furniture invested in beauty and style. Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

The Visionary

further: “Up until now, Iceland Eyjólfur’s objective through the years has has been far behind the other been to increase understanding and respect Nordic countries in supporting for good design and quality products by design and designers. With a introducing first class design and offering strong, joint effort we could come a noted design labels from Scandinavia and long way in improving the conditions other countries. But his main passion of Icelandic designers who are has always revolved around advancing rapidly supporting Icelandic designers both home and We offer and he has strived to assist abroad.” Eyjólfur classical items that in promoting their work. In stepped down from never go out of his own words: “I realised a running Epal long time ago that good things in 2010 and style. happen at a slow pace. When handed the torch you feel like things aren’t over to his son, happening fast enough, it is best to take a Kjartan Páll Eyjólfsson. Eyjólfur deep breath, look at things in perspective admits that he still has strong and realise that Iceland has an abundance opinions regarding everything of well educated, hardworking people remotely related to the doing great things and working together running of Epal but now that to achieve their mutual goals. At Epal, we the store is in his son’s capable want to support this in any way we can by hands, he has more time to work helping Icelandic designers put their ideas on his passion: to help young into action.” In an article Eyjólfur published Icelandic designers make their way in 2004 he addresses this point even in the jungle out there.

The Stores With this beautiful vision as a guiding light, Epal has flourished in the past four decades and there are four Epal stores in Iceland, with the flagship store located in Skeifan, and beautiful stores in the Kringlan shopping mall, Harpa concert hall and Laugavegur, Reykjavík’s main shopping street. When asked what era of furniture fashion most impresses him, Eyjólfur replies: “It is hopeless to speak of fashion when it comes to furniture and house accessories and I would rather not do that. We offer classic items that never go out of style. I think it is very important for people to invest in items that can withstand the test of time.”

Epal Harpa Epal Skeifan 6 Epal Kringlan +354 5687733 www.epal.is Epal

Skeifan 6, 108 Reykjavík Tel: +354 568 7740 www.epal.is We’ll take you there!

Reykjavik Excursions | 61

Early Bird Beats the Crowd Providing the best service possible.

You’ll Want to Shop …

Since 2015, the number of passengers traveling through Keflavík International Airport has doubled. And so has our commitment to providing the best service possible. The airport has received one award after another for its quality service, despite the rapid increase in traveler numbers. This summer will be our busiest ever and we’ve been working hard to implement new ways to meet that challenge. As before, we need your cooperation to make things run smoothly.

Midnight Magic

Gunnhildur Erla Vilbergsdóttir, commercial manager.

In order to help you avoid long lines at the ticket counter, we’re cooperating with WOW Air, Icelandair and Primera Air this summer to make it possible to check in for morning flights from midnight onwards.

offered extended check-in times. You can look up the check-in time for your flight at kefairport.is/early.

Arrive early and take advantage of stores and restaurants staying open all night. Enjoy some quiet time, shopping dutyfree, far ahead of the crowds. Passengers traveling at other times of day will also be

Every effort is being made to reduce the length of lines at border control. This we have done by installing automated border control gates alongside border control agents.

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A new service area was opened in June for passengers traveling to countries outside the Schengen area, such as the USA, Canada, Ireland and the UK. Most stores and restaurants located in the main terminal building can also be found in the non-Schengen area, thereby greatly improving service for transit passengers. Regardless of their location at the airport, all stores and restaurants are tax and duty free, providing you average savings of 19.35 percent. A new branch of the Sbarro restaurant chain opened in a pop-up area at the airport this summer, in response to passengers’ requests for increased offerings of quality fast food at fair prices. This has been a popular option for transit passengers, whether they wish to sit down and dine or bring a bite on board with them.

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

… Until You Drop If you’re too tired to go shopping, sit down and relax with your smartphone or computer and enjoy our free Wi-Fi service for as long as you like. We’ve installed new seats and couches for you to rest in, and all are equipped with plugs to charge your smart devices. Be smart and show up early. There are no better hours at the airport than the quiet ones.

Keflavik International Airport Keflavik Airport, 235 Keflavíkurflugvöllur Tel: +354 425 6000 www.www.kefairport.is We’ll take you there!

Reykjavik Excursions | 63

The Wonders of Volcanoes You’ll find the Volcano House near the old harbour, close to Reykjavík’s city centre. It gives guests a glimpse of how erupting volcanoes and earthquakes can be part of daily life in Iceland. An Icelandic volcano is the reason for democracy as we know it The 1783-4 eruption of Laki was the biggest eruption in recorded history. When it erupted, the ash travelled all over Europe, causing widespread crop failures. The resulting famine was almost certainly one of the causes of the French revolution of 1789. When the people ran out of bread and were told to “eat cake” instead, they revolted, resulting in the first modern democracy as we know it.

Not just one, but TWO of the BIGGEST ERUPTIONS in the recorded history of the world, occurred in Iceland! Laki was, as I said, the biggest eruption in recorded history, measured by volume of lava. But Iceland was also the site of the second biggest emission in recorded history: the 2014 eruption of Bárðarbunga. In just 6 months, Bárðarbunga produced enough lava to cover the island of Manhattan – 85km2. And Laki? That produced 370 km2 of lava – the size of the Gaza strip – in only 50 days!

Iceland has the only island scientists have been able to observe and document from the moment of its creation: Surtsey Surtsey was formed by a volcanic eruption at the bottom of the ocean and emerged from the water on November 14, 1963. It was immediately granted protection by law and to this day, only scientists can go there, and even they have to get special permission. This means that we have been able to monitor how life settles on a brandnew land from the beginning!

Iceland has a volcanic eruption every 4-5 years! This isn’t surprising considering the island has more than 100 volcanoes, split into different volcanic systems. About 30 different systems are still considered “active” in Iceland, and 13 of them have erupted since the Viking Settlement in 874.

1/3 of All the Earth’s Fresh Lava Originated in Iceland! When you’re discussing volcanoes, all concepts that have something to do with time get a bit skewed. For instance, fresh lava means lava emissions on earth since the year 1500 AD. So, why is all this liquid rock spewing to this particular spot on the surface? Because Iceland sits right on top of a crack between two tectonic plates as well as a geologic hot spot.

WANT TO GET UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH THE VOLCANOES OF ICELAND? In the Volcano House, down by the Old Harbour, you can study the wonderful geology of Iceland. The exhibition gives guests an insight into the powerful Icelandic volcanoes but if you’re interested, here’s a sneak peek at some of the things you can learn at the Volcano house. The first is about the eruption in the Vestmannaeyjar Islands in 1973. The small fishing community was faced with a sudden volcanic eruption in the middle of the night, forcing nearly 5,000 locals away from their homes. The second film documents the infamous eruption in Eyjafjallajökull 2010. This massive eruption caused thousands of flight cancellations, leaving millions of people stranded, all over the world. The mineral exhibition gives an overview of Iceland’s geological history and volcanic systems. A large collection of semi-precious rocks and minerals, as well as ash and lava, is on a display. 64 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Volcano House

Tryggvagata 11, 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 555 1900 | volcanohouse.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Adventure awaits

Book your day tour online and explore our north.

ISAFJORDUR Seafood and culture in the Westfjords

L AKE MYVATN Waterside wildlife and curious natural formations

MYVATN / HUSAVIK Highlights of the north

KULUSUK An 8-hour hike in remarkable Greenland

WE KNOW THE NORTH. AND WE’D LIKE TO INTRODUCE YOU TO EVERY NOOK AND CRANNY. ARE YOU READY?

Look for even more adventures online. They’re hiding in plain sight. websales@airicelandconnect.com tel. +354 570 3030

A Wrist-Work of Art by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir Clockmaking is one of those professions that carry with it an air of mystique and an aura of respect. You immediately think of skilled craftsmen from somewhere in the middle of Europe—Switzerland or Vienna—who learned the skill on their father's knee, who learned it from his father before him and so on and so forth. But what if I told you that a watchmaker doesn’t have to be old, have been doing it since forever, or even be Swiss to produce quality timepieces with a unique design?

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A Rocky Start This is exactly what Sigurður Gilbertsson, along with his friends, Grímkell Sigurþórsson and Júlíus Heiðarsson, told his father, Gilbert Ó Guðjónsson, when he tried to persuade him to join their venture of designing and producing their own collection of high-quality watches. Gilbert, a clocksmith with more than 40 years of work and experience of the difficult Icelandic economy under his belt, laughed in his face. Such an ambitious production for such a small market seemed a farfetched idea, no matter the accumulated expertise of the people involved. When Gilbert stopped laughing and realised that his son was serious, things started happening. They made a hundred watches of their own design to begin with and the rest is history. Today, JS Watch co. is a thriving business with several different collections of high-quality design watches, each of them bearing witness to the craftsmanship that goes into making them. They’re also selling like hotcakes, proving beyond a shadow of a doubt that you don’t have to be Swiss to make a quality watch.

The Devil’s in the Details But what is it about the JS watches? The team credits their success to their attention to detail.

“We not only take pride in our watches, but also our customer care. It’s very important for us that the people who buy our timepieces know the level of perfection we try to achieve. Although we aim to get that message across in our international sales, nothing beats talking to someone face to face and inviting them into our workshop."

A Satisfied Customer is the Best Reward JS Watch clientele includes some famous faces (or should I say famous wrists), including Tom Cruise and Yoko Ono. Perhaps even more interesting, other clients of note include the entire Icelandic Coastguard. JS Watch co. is the Coastguard’s official supplier of watches and the offshore emergency service exclusively uses the Sif North Atlantic Rescue Timer, which should give you an idea of the brand’s reputation for durability and accuracy.

JS Watch co.

Laugavegur 62, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 551 4100 | www.jswatch.com Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

PROBABLY THE

WORLD’S SMALLEST WATCH MANUFACTURER

Our Master Watchmaker never loses his concentration

With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop. All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection.

At JS Watch co. Reykjavik we’re committed to provide a personal quality service and we pride ourselves on the close relationships we have with our customers.

We’re always happy to assist and we provide a friendly and reliable service where our customers speak directly to the designers and manufacturers of the brand.

Scan it and learn more! www.jswatch.com

Gilbert Watchmaker, Laugvegur 62, 101 Reykjavik, tel + (354) 551 4100, www.jswatch.com

A Paradise off the Beaten Track Just off the beach, in an unassuming building blending in with the nature around it, lies Nauthóll bistro. The restaurants in the city centre are mostly superb, but this hidden gem, outside the bustle of Laugavegur is a refreshing change of pace. As much as I love the many lovely restaurants downtown, coming to Nauthóll always feels like a special treat. As you enter the modern, Scandinavian-looking building, you’re greeted with a gorgeous view of the beach and surrounding nature through the large windows, as well as a beautiful natural light. Just like the building itself, the interior décor, the tableware, even the food itself is all served in a beautifully simple style. The clean, clear lines of the restaurant harmonise beautifully with the ingredient-forward cuisine and come together to create an experience that is the height of Scandinavian style, with a nod to the uniquely Icelandic aesthetic (look for the lopapeysa-patterned staff uniforms, for example). It’s easy to feel a strong connection to nature while spending time at Nauthóll, which is why, for me at least, the cherry on top of the eating experience is the fact that the restaurant is dedicated to being as naturefriendly and green as possible in all stages of their operation. They’ve even qualified for the Nordic eco label, the Swan. The label

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is awarded to companies that have proved that they do everything in their power to minimise their effect on the environment. Now, all the style and environmental heroism in the world wouldn’t be enough for me to like a restaurant, if the food wasn’t up to par. Luckily, the chefs of Nauthóll know their stuff. The food matches the surroundings perfectly, making Nauthóll a great place for lunch, an afternoon coffee or a dinner. Although I must admit, sometimes the food isn’t even necessary, a glass of white wine on the terrace on a sunny afternoon can be just as enjoyable. The hardest thing about a visit to Nauthóll is leaving the tranquil environment and heading back to the city. I manage, barely, but will look forward to many visits like this to Nauthóll and Nauthólsvík this summer.

Nauthóll Bistro

Nauthólsvegi 106, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 599 6660 www.nautholl.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Learn Icelandic

A few helpful words and phrases

INQUISITIVE ADVERBS Where Hvar (kvar) When Hvenær (kvenar)

POLITE PLEASANTRIES Good morning Góðan daginn (go-than die-inn) How are you Hvað segirðu gott? (kvath say-ear-thuh got?) Fine, and you? Allt gott, en þú? (alt got, ann thoo?)

What Hvað (kvath)

Goodbye Bless

How Hvernig (kverr-neag)

Excuse me Afsakið (aff – sag- eeth)

Why Hvers vegna (kvars veg-nah)

NUMBERS

Please No word for that in Icelandic

My name is... Ég heiti … (yegh hey-tee …) I would like Ég ætla að fá (yegh ight-lah ath fow)

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 100 1000

Einn (Itn) Tveir (tway-r) Þrír (threer) Fjórir (fyoh-rear) Fimm (feem) Sex (you know how this one goes) Sjö (syuh) Átta (out-tah) Níu (nee-uh) Tíu (tee-uh) Hundrað (hunt-wrath) Þúsund (thoo-sunt)

SOME USEFUL (AND SOME NOT SO USEFUL) PHRASES I would like to order the dried fish, the horse and for dessert, some skyr.

Where is the nearest ice cream shop/swimming pool/café?

Ég ætla að fá harðfiskinn, hrossið og skyr í eftirrétt.

Hvar er næsta ísbúð/sundlaug/kaffihús?

(yegh ight-lah ath fow hearth-fisc-een, hraws-eeth och skeer ee eff-teer-ryet)

(quar err nice-tah ease-booth /soond-loch/caff-ee-hoos?)

Where can I get some brennivín? Hvar fæ ég Brennivín? (kvar fy yegh Brenn-ee-veen?) When does the next bus leave? Hvenær fer næsti strætó? (kvenar fer nice-tee stry-tow?)

IN CASE OF EMERGENCIES 70 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Excuse me, sir, but I just wanted to compliment you on your magnificent beard! Afsakið, herra minn, mig langaði bara að hrósa þér fyrir þetta stórkostlega skegg! (aff – sag- eeth, herr-ah meen, meeg lan-gah-thee bar-ah ath hrose-ah thyer feer-eer that-ah store-cost-leg-ah scag)

Help hjálp (hyowlp)

Stop it hættu (height-uh) Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

ALL THE ICELANDIC BEERS IN ONE AWESOME PLACE

Into the Belly of the Fiery Beast (on a Tuesday Afternoon)

I unexpectedly got a chance to go on the Inside the Volcano tour. I figured the chance to go INSIDE a volcano is worth re-organizing your day, so I made a few quick calls, borrowed an anorak, a warm hat and mittens, and I was on my way! It was a rainy and breezy day downtown as I walked down the hill from the booking agency to the Bus station. I arrived about 10 minutes early and the full bus pulled away a few minutes before the scheduled 14:00 departure. The ride out to Þríhnúkagígur took about 30 minutes, past green mossy fields and snowcovered mountains. Þríhnúkagígur is the only volcano in the world where you can go inside an empty magma chamber. Our guide explained that once a volcano stops erupting, the walls often cave in - transforming the volcano into a crater.

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We arrived at a kind of visitor’s centre, where we received a brief overview of the journey to the volcano. We would take a 3km walk to basecamp, which I would rather call a hike; though there was little change in elevation, on this particular (May) day, the snow was deep enough that my hiking boots were completely covered! I was well dressed so I was alright, but I bet the guy with the shorts and flip-flops had some second thoughts on the way!

We had the wind at our back on the way to the base camp at Þríhnúkagígur. Along the way, our guide Birgitta pointed out some pseudocraters, which are only found in Iceland and on planet Mars. The journey to the base of the volcano took about 45 minutes. Once at basecamp, we had an opportunity to rest a bit and get a hot drink. They split us into groups of 3 or 4, and gave us helmets

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

and harnesses for the short walk along the ridge, and subsequent descent into the volcano. We met up with more guides who I later discovered were seasoned mountain men, experts in determining if it’s safe to make the walk up to the volcano. We were told it was some of the most extreme weather they’d ever done it in, but we never felt unsafe – clearly we were in good hands. The walk along the ridge was in nearly hurricane force winds that day. It was quite exhilarating as, instructed by our guides, we held hands and- with our back to the wind- slowly made our way up to the mouth of the volcano. They hooked our harnesses to lines on the metal bridge as we walked to the lift, then secured us to the lift itself. The lift made it way slowly down, squeezing through spaces so tight that you could touch the inside of the volcano. And then suddenly, we were hanging in the gaping void. It’s incredibly huge – taller than the Statue of Liberty – and the colors are amazing.

Once we landed, we had a free range to wander inside the volcano for about 30 minutes. There were bright orange lines marking out where it was safe to walk but I didn’t feel restricted at all. Even within those boundaries, it was wise to use a headlamp and step carefully as the ground is pretty uneven in a lot of places. I marveled at all the colors of the rocks- I expected browns and reds but not bright yellows, blues and greens! It’s surprisingly silent inside the volcano. Aside from the slight hum of the elevator running and the hushed whispers of my fellow travelers, the mountain really blocks out all outside sounds. The melted snow and rain was gently falling down into the volcano. The drops caught bits of light as they fell in what seemed like slow-motion- it was so beautiful. The photos really don’t do it justice, it’s hard to capture the sense of serenity and peace and I sat silently and let the fact that I was laying down inside this powerful (now dormant) beast of nature wash over me.

TIPS

»» Take the weather into consideration. It can change quickly in Iceland and can be different on the mountains than it is in the city. »» Bring sunglasses. Whether it’s a surprise or not, Iceland is bright! »» Dress well and wear comfortable shoes. »» Bring an extra pair of socks in case your feet get wet. »» When inside the volcano, put away your camera or phone for a while and just enjoy it! We’ll take you there!

It wasn’t bad for a Tuesday afternoon. Not bad at all. I really recommend this experience for anyone interested in nature, geology, adventuring, mountaineering, or who just wants to do something unusual. As I mentioned previously, it’s the only place in the world where you can do this sort of thing – usually volcanos will collapse once they run out of magma, and if this kind of magma chamber exists anywhere else, there definitely isn’t a handy day tour to lower you into it by elevator. That being said, though it is efficient, it doesn’t at all feel inauthentic or particularly “touristy” - our guides were real mountaineers and everything felt there very close to nature – the trek over the mountains, the walk along the ridge, even being exposed to the elements, gave the whole thing a very outdoorsy, adventurous feel. In all it’s a great way to experience the unique, mountainous and rocky nature of Iceland, to get out of the city, and a truly magnificent way to spend a day.

You can book your Inside the Volcano Tour at insidethevolcano.is, the nearest Tourist Information or your hotel lobby! Reykjavik Excursions | 73

An Adventure Under a Bridge You might have heard tales of trolls living under bridges, but the Icelandic story of a luxurious gourmet meal under a bridge is less well known. One of the best seafood restaurants in town, Fiskfélagið or the Fish Company, was described as such by one of their first customers as he contentedly pushed his last plate away. The Fish Company is located in one of the oldest houses in Reykjavik, commonly known as the Zimsen building. It dates back to 1884 and was originally situated in Hafnarstræti, a few hundred metres east of its current location. After being completely renovated and moved to its current location in Grófartorg, Fiskfélagið took up residence in the cellar, underneath the bridge by the side of the building. During the groundwork stages of the Grófartorg reconstruction area, excavation revealed the remains of the older harbour. That has now been incorporated into “The Tides,” a work

of art by Hjörleifur Stefánsson developed in collaboration with Minjavernd Heritage Trust. This gives the area a unique atmosphere that gets accentuated even further as the tide rolls in and out of the artwork simultaneously to the tide in the current harbour. The menu features delicious Icelandic seafood but there’s a twist. The menu is designed to take you on a journey. The Fish Company menu takes you on a trip around the world, with top class marine cuisine melding together themes from Japan, France, Sweden, Fiji, Ireland, Tahiti and the USA to name few.

Dining at this restaurant is dining at its finest in Reykjavik. This is a restaurant that you can always count on to make your evening something to remember. The food’s great, the atmosphere is unique and the wonderful surroundings of this beautifully renovated old house ensure that whether you’re having lunch or dinner, it’s always going to be a treat!

The Fish Company

Vesturgata 2a, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 552 5300 | www.fiskfelagid.is

ENJOYING THE LARGEST JACUZZI IN THE WORLD: PRICELESS Enjoy your stay in Iceland, where you are as welcome as your MastercardÂŽ

Mastercard is a registered trademark, and the circles design is a trademark of Mastercard International Incorporated.

The Icelandic Horse A Faithful Servant and a Loyal Companion

One of Iceland’s biggest claims to fame (aside from Björk, of course) is the Icelandic horse. Short, stout and shaggy, his nickname through the ages has been þarfasti þjónninn (the most needed servant) and his importance in the farming society, especially in the ages before the arrival of the car, can hardly be overestimated. While his farming duties have lessened with the change of times and invention of the motor car, there are still plenty of horses in Iceland. Riding for pleasure is a very popular hobby, especially since the Icelandic horse has so many qualities that make it an exceptionally good riding breed.

A viking horse When the Vikings were settling Iceland more than a thousand years ago, they brought horses because they needed them, but when they had enough horses, it made much more sense to breed their own rather than keep importing. Later on, importing horses was actually banned because the Icelandic breed was susceptible to foreign diseases. The settlers’ horses weren’t of one specific breed to begin with, but since the 11th century, no horses have been imported to Iceland. The result of centuries of breeding is known as the Icelandic horse. The Icelandic breed has retained some qualities other breeds have lost, and developed others in the unique conditions of Iceland.

Smart and Tough Icelandic horses had to survive all kinds of weather and all kinds of terrain with their riders but since Iceland doesn’t have a particularly rich native fauna, they didn’t have to fear predators or reptilians. This made for natural selection that promotes intellect over flight instincts. Icelandic horses aren’t skittish, they are attentive and think about every step

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they take. This makes them a companion on a ride, instead of just a mode of transportation to be controlled.

But wait, there’s more! Icelandic horses have the ability to learn more gaits than other horses. Some horses have five gaits, including a flying pace where all legs leave the ground at once and a gait known only to Icelandic horses; the tölt. Tölt is valued for its smoothness and is ideal for traversing Iceland’s rocky terrain.

Want to take a ride? Íshestar is a 30-year-old company and one of the most established horse rentals in Iceland. Their most popular option is to ride an Icelandic horse through rough-looking lava fields on the Lava Tour. Suitable for both beginners and experienced riders, the Lava Tour lets you explore the beautiful nature surrounding Reykjavík the Viking way! If you haven’t ridden a horse before, you can always take a tour more focused on beginners. On the Nature Comfort tour, you’ll still get to see some amazing nature but you don’t go as fast and an attentive guide is ready to answer any questions you might have. If this still seems to risky, you can just Meet the Horses in their stables, get acquainted with them and maybe take a ride around the paddock if you feel up for it.

If however, the lava tour doesn’t sound too difficult but rather too easy, there’s also an option for more experienced riders. The Viking tour takes you further than the other tours and lets you try out the unique tölt gait, only known by the Icelandic horses. You can ride for the whole day if you have the time or take the Viking Express tour.

Íshestar

Sörlaskeið 26, 221 Hafnafjörður Tel: +354 555 7000 www.ishestar.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

On behalf of the entire crew

WE WELCOME YOU TO JOE & THE JUICE

ARRIVAL HALL AND DEPARTURE HALL AT KEFLAVIK AIRPORT

| KRINGLAN | SMÁRALIND | WORLD CLASS LAUGAR | LAUGAVEGUR

17 - 1501 — HVÍTA HÚSIÐ / SÍA

E A R LY B I R D C AT C H E S After her time in Iceland, Naomi arrives early at the airport so she can enjoy her last hours there before continuing her journey.

GIVE YOURSELF MORE TIME TO SHOP

F I N D F U R T H E R I N F O R M AT I O N O N YO U R F L I G H T AT K E FA I R P O R T. I S/ E A R LY

Arrive early at Keflavík Airport and we will greet you with open arms. All passengers travelling on morning flights with WOW, Icelandair and Primera can check in from midnight. We have increased our services so you can have a lovely last Icelandic experience. Shops and restaurants, open all night this summer, so you can embrace the last drops of Icelandic taste and feel — and of course Tax and Duty Free.

MORE TIME FOR SHOPPING

E XPECTED RUSH HOUR S AT C H E C K- I N

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To remember her time in Iceland, she brings back home unique souvenirs that she bought at the airport.

“ZOMG REYKJAVIK HAS A BIG LEBOWSKITHEMED BAR!” Tweeted by @caitlinmoran Followers: 594K – A Journalist for The Times, author, and broadcaster. Ever seen the 1998 cult classic “The Big Lebowski” by the Coen brothers? Of course you have! Everybody has. For those of you unfamiliar with the concept, first of all, go watch it, right now. When you’ve done that, you’ll know that it involves Jeff Bridges as the “Dude” Lebowski, who, because of a case of mistaken identity is on a mission to seek reimbursement for a ruined rug and enlists his bowling buddies to help him. In Reykjavík, we have a bar based on the concept. Yeah, well. The Dude abides. Lebowski Bar, on Laugavegur, opened in April 2012 and was immediately a huge hit. The general idea was to combine a bar with a diner styled grill, furnished in the style of The Big Lebowski. Lebowski bar has a host of events and activities, such as DJ’s and live performances, quiz nights, and every major game and sporting event on the Big Screen. The bar can serve up to 300 people with food and drink in four dining areas so every individual or group can be seated comfortably. Their diner menu offers a variety of Lebowski burgers and milkshakes, such as the classic “The Other Lebowski” (Steak Burger with Bernaise 80 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

sauce), the more health-conscious “Bunny Lebowski” (Chicken Burger with Blue Cheese sauce) or “The Nihilist” (BBQ Chicken Wings). The crown jewel of the whole establishment, however, is definitely the White Russian Menu, made up purely of Vodka and Kahluabased cocktails. If the cream-based cocktail isn’t your thing, recently they’ve been adding to their bottled artisan beer menu, as well as their selection of whiskeys.

That rug really tied the room together The location of Lebowski Bar, along with its brilliant concept design, is a big contributor to its success. Laugavegur is the main shopping and bar-hopping street in Reykjavik. Virtually everybody goes there at one time or another, both locals and visitors. Lebowski Bar has through its location been both frequented by regulars and attended by passers-by and foreign visitors equally. I checked out Lebowski bar on a Thursday night. I had been there several times before on a weekend, but as these former visits mostly consisted of arriving tipsy and leaving drunk, I never wrote any reviews (although I should highly commend the bar staff for great cocktails) so I decided to behave like an adult, see the band that evening and have a beer. Having shown up early I got a seat between the bar and the band. Starting with a Tuborg Classic draft, I waited for the band to play their tunes and boy, was I in for a treat. The young keyboard player (a 19-year-old prodigy)

started the night off with Booker T & MG’s Green Onions, followed by the guitar player serving ZZ Top’s La Grange with a twist. Needless to say, people could barely sit still in their seats. By the time I saw the bottom of that Tuborg draft glass, people were dancing to The Doors and my instinct told me to pick up a White Russian for me and my date, who had been talking to some EVE

Hey, careful, man, there’s a beverage here! Among the previously named EVE Online conference guests, I spotted a pair of Icelandic actresses, having what I can only imagine being a glass of milk (as opposed to heavy cream and vodka) considering their itsy bitsy waistlines. Also present was an Icelandic MMA fighter (the only one we have come to think about it) and a group of college students who looked like they were really enjoying the music. The atmosphere in Lebowski Bar does not ask for age, gender, if you are wearing a watch or if you like bowling at all. It only asks that you loosen up, have a beverage or two and maybe a burger. Most important is that you have fun. Walking out of the front door I wondered how on earth such a wide group of people could find themselves sitting down and having such fun in the same place. But if the Dude abides, so should we.

Lebowski Bar

Laugavegur 20a, 101 Reykjavík +354 552 2300 | www.lebowski.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Delicious Milk Chocolate from Iceland’s oldest confectioner, all wrapped up in the beauty of Iceland.

NET WEIGHT: 100g

You’ll find directions inside the packaging on how you can download the image that adorns each of these irresistible treats. sweetmemories.is

freyja.is

GET THE PHOTOS FOR FREE

The History of Icelandic Rock‘n‘roll There’s more to Icelandic music than Björk, you know!

Fish may be Iceland’s biggest export but the most interesting one is definately Icelandic music! Now, I know what you’re thinking: “Well, I guess, but to be honest, I’m just not that really into Björk” First of all, how dare you disrespect our queen, second of all, there’s a lot more to Icelandic music than just Björk! Icelandic musicians have been making it big in the international music scene for decades, everything from Mezzoforte and their Garden Party to Kaleo and Of Monsters and Men. If you want to know just why Icelandic musicians are so darn good, let me take you on an imaginary road trip to Keflavík, where it all began. If you’re travelling in Iceland, Keflavík is probably most familiar to you as the location of the Keflavík airport but there’s more to Keflavík than international transportation! Keflavík is where Icelanders first discovered rock music. The airport actually factors in the history of Icelandic music because it was built by British and American soldiers during WWII. For decades after the World War, Keflavík was the location of an American army base and the town of Keflavík was fascinated by the American culture, especially their music! The young people went wild for rock and roll music and Keflavík became known as Beatletown, due to the

number of Beatle-esque bands originating in the town. If you want to know what happened next, it’s time to head into the Icelandic Museum of Rock’n’Roll, which of course is located in Keflavík. It documents the developing music scene of Iceland, which later produced stars like Björk, Of Monsters and Men and Kaleo, giving insight into the unique creative spirit of Icelandic artists. The history of Icelandic music is explained with the help of photos, outfits belonging to some of the stars of Icelandic music history, and, of course, music. Armed with a tablet guide,

Icelandic Music History in 5 albums Trúbrot – Lifun, 1971 This late sixties/early seventies prog rock band was actually a supergroup, with members from popular bands of the sixties, Flowers and Hljómar. Trúbrot’s conceptual album, Lifun, is one of the gems from this decade.

The Sugarcubes – Life’s Too Good, 1988 The Sugarcubes most famous member is the lead singer, one Björk Guðmundsdóttir, but the Sugarcubes music shouldn’t be overlooked. It’s difficult to define but words like alt-rock or avant-pop have been used in context with their music.

Sigur Rós – Ágætis Byrjun, 1999 Sigur Rós are probably the second most famous artists to come out of Iceland. We’ll take you there!

containing detailed information about Icelandic music, sorted by eras, you can enjoy the exhibition at your own pace, in your own time. If you get inspired by the innovative artists of Iceland, you can even try your hand at making some music yourself, picking up a guitar, playing some drums, or trying your hand at singing in the karaoke booth!

The Icelandic Museum of Rock 'n' Roll Hjallavegur 2, 260 Reykjanesbær Tel.: +354 420 1030 rokksafn@hljomaholl.is, www.hljomaholl.is

The post-rock group has been active since the mid-nineties and their ethereal sounds and out-of-this-world vocals solidified the reputation Björk started for Icelandic music as introspective elf music.

Írafár – Allt sem ég sé, 2002 With catchy tunes and inane lyrics, the summer pop music of the late 90’s and early noughties was immensely popular in Iceland. Írafár is one of a host of bands that will evoke instant nostalgia in the hearts of everybody of a certain generation.

Reykjavíkurdætur – RVK DTR, 2016 We’re still influenced by American culture and for the past few years, several Icelandic artists have been making hip hop and rap music! Reykjavíkurdætur is one of the most exciting acts coming out of Iceland at the moment, a 16-member rap collective making music about everything from Icelandic politics to their own impending international fame. Reykjavik Excursions | 83

PRE-BOOKING REQUIRED Book online at bluelagoon.com

SÓLEY ORGANICS

Wild - Powerful - Pure

Throughout the years, people have relied on herbal medicine to cure what ails them. While it’s perhaps no match for modern medical sciences when it comes to serious illnesses and injuries, the accumulated wisdom of herbalists throughout the ages can work wonders for everyday life’s little aches and irritations. Soley Organics is a natural and organic skincare brand, made in Iceland using renewable energy, and the recipes are based on the wisdom of generations of herbalists. The herbs for Sóley’s products are handpicked in the Icelandic nature during the short but sweet Icelandic summers by Sóley, her family, and friends. These herbs are then blended with certified organic vegetable or essential oils and pure Icelandic water, resulting in gentle but effective products. The first product, Græðir healing balm, was based on a centuries old family recipe that is the base of, and inspired the whole product range. Ever since the beginning, Sóley’s products have received a warm welcome, both in Iceland and outside its shores. It’s no wonder really; they promise organic luxury and they deliver!

The Herbs

Birch Birch is the only tree that’s native to Iceland – and it’s also the most common tree you’ll see in Iceland. Birch contains Betulin, which will clam inflammations, tone pores, and help wounds heal, as well as several antioxidants. Birch is supposed to be especially effective to make hair thick shiny and healthy, which is why it’s the main ingredient in Sóley’s BIRKIR shampoo!

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Yarrow Yarrow is one of the oldest known medicinal plants, being used for that purpose at least since Ancient Greece. It has a reputation as a panacea and is especially supposed to heal damaged skin quickly and cleanly. Icelandic yarrow is especially potent and has been used for healing purposes since Viking times. SÓLEY’s products contain yarrow for its calming and healing properties. It should also help keep your skin looking lovely and your hair healthy.

You will come across Soley in many of Iceland's premium hotels, spas and guesthouses, as well as many Health & lifestyle stores and pharmacies around the country

Bearberries Bearberries are not only, as the name suggests, popular food for bears (in other countries, Iceland doesn’t have bears), but also an herb with a long history of medicinal use, both inside the body and out. It’s safe and effective way to support and nourish the skin. Bearberries act as a skin brightener, naturally illuminating your skin. Willow Willow bark contains the natural form of aspirin and was even recommended by Hippocrates, the father of modern medicine. While Hippocrates wasn’t too bothered with the plants uses for skincare, willow does contain salicin which our bodies metabolise into salicylic acid, a widely used ingredient in skincare products. It speeds up the skin’s natural process of getting rid of dead cells and growing new ones, leading to healthier skin.

Sóley Organics

Bæjarhraun 10, 220 Hafnafjörður Tel: +354 555 2222 www.soleyorganics.com Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

HAPPY HOUR EVERY DAY 16:00-19:00

The Light of Our Lives Iceland, silly as the name can seem during the summer months, was named so for a reason. In the old days, before electricity and heating, when the cold and dark could be fatal, self-preservation and innovation were the keys to surviving. It is a wonderful thing that one of the best-known brands in Icelandic export is a product that has helped the Icelandic nation survive since the settlement. It’s a fish oil product called Lýsi and we are so proud of it. The Norwegian settlers of Iceland brought with them the knowledge of how to make Lýsi. They extrexted it from whals, sharks, fish, seals and even birds and used it as fuel for light, to soften and protect the clothing of seafarers and as a nutritional supplement for both humans and animals. For a time, it was even used as currency, as sources from as far back as 1096 state that church taxes in Iceland were paid in the form of this life-saving, smelly liquid. The name “Lýsi” comes from the product having been used as lamp oil, in Icelandic, the verb “lýsa“ means “to illuminate“. Living this close to the Arctic Circle means that winter nights are long and dark, so one can only imagine how precious

it must have been to be able to have light in the house. Add to that Lýsi’s nutritional value - it’s a valuable source of vitamins A and D (in a country where the sun is absent most of the time and low in the sky when it does show its face) - and it becomes an understatement to say that Lýsi has had a real impact on survival in this country. The method of processing Lýsi from the liver in the old days was, in the simplest terms I can think of, something like this: They dug a hole, put the liver in the hole and waited for the oil to squirt out. Hardly a developed technology, but nevertheless, Lýsi was the biggest export product of Iceland as early as the 14th century, along with dried fish and woollen cloth.

The beginning In 1938, a man named Tryggvi Ólafsson founded a production and export company, simply named Lysi. By that time, he was an expert, having spent the decade before trading and experimenting with Lýsi, first in a small lab he prepared in his home. When he founded LYSI, the company was considered a pioneer in the production of marine lipids and later became a global leader in the field. The company’s research has been on-going for decades and today LYSI is at the world forefront of research and product development. Tryggvi had a seat on the board until he was 96 years old and it wasn’t until 1981 that the first non-family member became president of the company. In 1999

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the company was reclaimed by the family and has been run by Katrín Pétursdóttir, the granddaughter of Tryggvi Ólafsson, and her family ever since. In April 2007, LYSI was awarded the President of Iceland’s Award for Export Achievement for its “unique achievement in the sales and marketing of marine lipid products and for the vision the company demonstrates in product development and for the build-up of knowledge and expertise in its field.”

…the rest is history Every child in Iceland knows that there is no way of growing up to be big and strong without having a spoonful of Lýsi with breakfast every day. They have no idea what Omega-3 and vitamins A and D do for them but it’s is a tradition. This is what mummy and daddy raise them to do because their parents told them to and that has been the way of things in this country for hundreds of years. But the LYSI product line has more to offer than just classic cod liver oil in a glass bottle. The company now has various production lines, including shark liver oil, omega-3 fish oil, and various blister pack products where in addition to the Lýsi itself, you get vitamins and minerals as well. Still, the majority of the company’s turnover comes from a tradition of 700 years, exporting cod liver oil in bulk. And in a country consumed with nostalgia, you can just begin to imagine how loving and respecting LYSI is branded into our darkenduring, hard-working Icelandic soul.

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

SHOP LOCATIONS EPAL Harpa concert hall Epal Laugavegi 70

Rey k jav i k R a i ncoats S H O WR O O M - H V ER F IS GATA 8 2

www.rey kjav i kr a i n coat s.com - i nf o @ r e y k j av i k r a i n c oats.c o m - TE L : 5 7 1 1 1 7 7

LOCAL FOOD AND BEER Tasty and fun food made with fresh and local Icelandic ingredients. We offer a unique selection of Icelandic beer– 20 bottled, 10 on draft, and artisan cocktails to enjoy alongside the food.

ICELANDIC GASTROPUB

Open 11:30–23:30

Drop by for lunch, late lunch, dinner or drinks in a casual and fun atmosphere.

Hafnarstræti 1–3 / Tel. 555 2900 / saetasvinid.is

THIS IS IT 2017 WELCOME

WHALE WATCHING • HÚSAVÍK • ICELAND

“Great adventure with the rib. Seeing so much beautiful animals”

“Rib Ride humpback whales - amazing!”

“Worth Every Penny”

LS ALS INA IGIN RIG OR TH EO THE HHHHH “Fabulous tour, operated by fantastically enthusiastic staff”

“Best whale watching experience from the Safari tour!”

“Absolutely the best Whale watching experience in Iceland”

“Fantastic experience, worth the time and money”

Akureyri

150 YEARS OF FAMILY HISTORY IN THE BAY

Húsavík

Reykjavík

Tel. +354 464 1500 • www.gentlegiants.is • info@gentlegiants.is HÚSAVÍK

MEMBER OF ICEWHALE – THE ICELANDIC WHALE WATCHING ASSOCIATION

Explosive Show! Volcano Documentary, Stone Collection and Geological Exhibition in Reykjavík, next to the Old Harbour.

Tryggvagata 11 | Reykjavík | +354 555 1900 | www.volcanohouse.is

– Visit our stores: Skólavörðustígur & Kringlan, Reykjavík. Hafnarstræti, Akureyri. Geysir, Haukadalur. geysir.com –