My Destination Reykjavik Summer 2014 by MD Reykjavik

Summer 2014

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We want your stay in Reykjavík to be as enjoyable as possible and we are here to help. While turning the pages of this magazine you will learn about many of Reykjavík’s best restaurants, stores, clubs, excursions and transportation companies along with some practical tips and fun facts about the city and its surrounding areas. The information provided on these pages will give you an insight into life in Reykjavík and introduce you to the highlights of the city. However, it is hard to explain to you the magic of Reykjavík on just 64 leaves of paper. To be properly informed about everything during your stay here in Iceland we highly recommend a visit to our website, www.MyDestination.com/ Reykjavik. On the My Destination Reykjavik website you will find absolutely everything you could possibly want to know about Reykjavík and more. The greatest thing about the My Destination network and what seperates it from other travel sites is that it is filled with tips and reviews

from locals who really know what they are talking about. My Destination Reykjavik is there for you whether you want to get to know the history of Iceland, learn about the culture, read about the restaurants you plan on eating at, book your accommodation, rent a car, find out What’s On in Reykjavik, browse through photos or load up on useful information. Basically we have everything you need to get informed and make the best of your trip. My Destination is a global travel resource that is powered by a diverse community of hundreds of local experts. The local experts at My Destination Reykjavik are on the ground and have personally experienced what our destination has to offer. We make sure to produce comprehensive information in the form of travel articles, local tips, guides, reviews, videos and panoramic virtual tours. Let My Destination be your tour guide during your stay in Iceland and you will get more out of your experience than you thought was possible.

Reykjavik MyDestination Reykjavik Locally Informed, Globally Inspired. www.mydestination.com/reykjavik

Published by MD Reykjavik ehf. Laugavegur 4, 101 Reykjavik. Tel.: 551-3600. E-mail: whatson@whatson.is Editor: Hjörtur Atli Guðmunds. Geirdal, hjortur@whatson.is, Tel.:847-4153. Layout & design: Stefán Birgir Stefáns, sbs@sbs.is

Opinions expressed in this magazine are those of the individual authors. While every effort has been made to ensure the information presented is accurate, prices, times, dates and other information may be subject to change.

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Reykjavik City Marathon The Reykjavik City Marathon is celebrating its 31st year in 2014, having been established as early as 1984. Back then it was much different, involving only 214 die-hard souls of seven different nationalities in addition to Icelandic. Today, the race attracts around 13.000 participants every year, thereof about 1.500 of foreign nationalities, and 2012 they collectively managed to raise 46 million ISK (300.000 EUR or 400.000 USD) for charity.

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The events include a full marathon and a half marathon, 10 km, relay, 3 km and the children’s LazyTown run, associated with a popular children’s cartoon of the same name which rose to prominence on Nickelodion. The starting line is in the heart of the city center by Íslandsbanki, one of the main sponsors, through residential areas, public parks and by the coast – so it’s a great way to see the city! The race is organized to coincide with the Reykjavik Culture Night, a day-and-night long festival of culture and entertainment

all over Reykjavík which consists of a main stage in the city center, and different venues all over town, from art galleries and cafés to private residences and back yards, in addition to many spontaneous street happenings. The whole thing is then topped off with a fireworks show at the harbour and the whole town turns up to see the glory. It is estimated that 100.000 people attend the festival every year, which considering that the population of the whole city is only 200.000 people, means that practically everyone and their grandmother is there!

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

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The Wonders of Volcanoes You’ll find the Volcano House near the old harbour close to Reykjavík’s city centre. It gives guests a glimpse of how erupting volcanoes and earthquakes can be part of daily life in Iceland. VOLCANO HOUSE CINEMA – DRAMATIC AND INFORMATIVE The Volcano cinema shows striking documentaries on two of the most powerful eruptions in Iceland in recent times. One features the famous natural disaster in the Westman Islands, where a tremendous eruption began after midnight on the 23rd of January 1973. That night nearly 5,000 people had to be evacuated to the mainland, using all boats available on the island. The other film presents Iceland as one of the youngest volcanic islands on earth and documents the eruption in Eyjafjallajökull and others in amazing Emmy nominated footages. This famous eruption caused unprecedented interruptions to air traffic over a large part of Europe. GEOLOGICAL EXHIBITION – YOU MAY TOUCH THE ITEMS! A brief synopsis of Iceland’s geological history and volcanic system are on display in the Volcano House, together with superb photographs of volcanic eruptions and other mysterious aspects of Icelandic nature. A large collection of semi-precious rocks and minerals from around the country are on display. A visit to the exhibition is a one of a kind experience which offers a hands-on geology experience where guests can handle various samples of pumice, ash and lava from Icelandic volcanoes. Some members of staff are geologists and everyone is well informed if you have any questions or inquiries. 8 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

VOLCANO HOUSE CAFÉ – HEALTHY AND AFFORDABLE It is perfect to sit down at the Volcano House Café if you want a healthy and affordable meal or refreshments. You will find that the menu is under both Icelandic and make travel plans or just have a nice meal and a chat. The menu has a volcanic twist and even their coffee has a connection to volcanic activities, grown in the hills of volcanos in Guatemala. At the Volcano House café you even get a piece of lava with your coffee. Free Wi-Fi for our guests. VOLCANO HOUSE INFORMATION AND BOOKING SERVICE Do you want to know more about travelling in Iceland, activities, nature or culture? Do you need a relaxed forum to book your tours with knowledgeable, friendly staff? Whether you are interested in whale watching, horse riding, bus tours to the countryside or other Icelandic adventures, Volcano House Information centre will help you find the activities of your choice and take care of your booking and other arrangements. VOLCANO HOUSE BOUTIQUE The Volcano House has a souvenir shop that offers various gifts and artwork connected to Iceland’s volcanoes and nature. It has on offer classic souvenir items that make it possible for you to take home a piece of Iceland. These are items such as lava rocks, pumice, bottles of ash from Eyjafjallajökull, lava jewellery and more.

Volcano House Tryggvagata 11, 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 555 1900 www.volcanohouse.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Some places have a certain something about them. People just want to be there. And if you are lucky you get to spend some time at one of those places. Atli Bollason shared an apartment at Ingólfsstræti 8a few years ago with two friends. He never knew who would be there or what would happen when he got home. Sometimes it was a café, sometimes a cinema and after the bars closed there would maybe be a line outside. People just showed up. Ingólfsstræti 8 Skál fyrir þér! Léttöl

Our Dearest Dairy Product Skyr (pronounced skeer) is a unique Icelandic dairy product which has been a staple food in our country for over a thousand years. It is still enjoyed daily by Icelanders, in various shapes and form, renowned for its high protein content and smooth texture. PROVISIONS OF HISTORY This deliciously healthy course or snack has been a large part of the Icelandic diet since the first settlers brought it with them around the year 1000. It is even mentioned in the Icelandic Sagas. Skyr is made from clotted skim milk, it has a slightly acid taste and a tinge of sweetness. This product has been popular through history, with both children and adults, due to its versatility and nutritional qualities. It is a creamy delicacy that is both fat-free and rich in protein, giving you a great sense of fullness. A convenient and healthy food that is loved by both Icelanders and visitors alike. In recent times this product, which to tell you the truth was considered a rather old fashioned way of eating when I was growing up, has become the snack of all snacks. With the bodybuilding craze that Iceland has undergone in the past years, a pot of Skyr

has again become the image of all things good and pure. The high protein/low fat combination has made it an indespensable part of any health oriented Icelander. A LOW CALORIE BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER AND DESERT. So for people who want to restrict their calorie intake but still eat well and maintain a balanced diet, skyr is the natural choice. Although, mind you, serving it with cream and lots of sugar, like my grandparents prefer it, might put a damper on the dieting aspect of things. Children love it and for most of us over the age of 35, skyr was probably one of the first solid foods we ever tasted. Speaking of children, I came home from work today, famished as usual, and immediately started rummaging through the refrigerator for something to ease my suffering. A can of Skyr was what I found, perfect, round, cold, ready to help me

survive until dinner time. I opened the can, took one oh so gratifying spoonful and left the can on the kitchen table to go answer the phone. When I came back (no more than two minutes later) I found my three year old son with my spoon in his hand, smiling ear to ear, telling me proudly that he had finished all of “his” food. Bless him. If you are into low fat cooking, unflavoured, unsweetened skyr is a great fat-free substitute for mayonnaise, crème fraiche or yogurt in cold dips and oven dishes. It contains 10% high quality protein, 20% of which is whey protein, best known for its muscle building qualities. FRESH FROM THE ARCTIC This beloved product of ours is made from the best ingredients: milk farmed in the fresh green pastures near the arctic circle where the water is pure and the nature is unspoilt. The modern day processing technique is 100% natural, based on the original principles, using a thousand year old recipe and milk from the same cow breed, the colourful settlement cow, whose milk has unique health-promoting qualities. Until a few years ago, Skyr was only available in Iceland. This has changed dramatically in recent years since Skyr is now produced in Denmark, Sweden and Norway under licence agreements from Iceland and exported to Finland. Skyr has proven to be liked by Iceland‘s neighbours with sales growing. This is really a lovely example of how life runs in circles since the original Icelandic settlers indeed came from Norway, and along with them, in all likelihood, the recipe for what has been the corner stone of Icelandic diet since the beginning of time.

10 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

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A Food Designer with a Passion for Raw Foods To interview a restaurant owner at lunch time during the opening of her third restaurant was a phenomenally bad idea. After watching this tiny hurricane of a woman running around for a few minutes, I made a judgement call and told her I would be back in the afternoon. Which retrospectively should have been my plan to begin with. Gló now has three raw food restaurants in the Reykjavik area. The owner and master chef, Solla Eiríksdóttir, has been involved in vegetarian and raw food cuisine for over 30 years. My first question, when I finally got her to sit down, was on how it all started. “I became a vegetarian before I was twenty. I was sick with allergies and food intolerance and was forced to choose between going on medication and completely changing my diet. I chose the latter and became a vegetarian, a life change that soon turned into passion for making good healthy food and spreading the gospel. Soon I started teaching vegetarian cooking and by 1994, I had my first restaurant. 16 years after my change, I found myself ready to try something new. That is when I gained interest in raw foods. I went to Puerto Rico in 1996 to study raw cooking. So I entered the world of raw rather early. “ According to Solla, people tend to connect “healthy” with “bad taste” in their minds. Her objective is to obliterate that connection by making raw food based on recipes and ideas that people already know and love. “My goal is to slowly but surely root out the prejudice and misconception that people have regarding raw food. In 25 years, the option of having raw meals will have become as common and natural as the vegetarian alternative is today.”

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The road to reform is long and winding and Solla takes her role very seriously. “I am extremely passionate about this. Instead of turning my belief that raw food makes everything better just onto myself, I have spent the last 17 years inventing and developing recipes that turn what people already know into raw food. As a result, my restaurants offer pizza, enchiladas, sushi and lasagne, all according to the raw ideology. The idea is to get people to have a taste, to like it and to come back. “ But what exactly does the raw concept embody? According to Solla, it is a cooking method that entails heating the food to only 42-47°C. That way the enzymes in the food can be preserved in order to give the human body a chance to maintain its self-healing abilities. This applies to vegetables, fruit, nuts, seeds and corn. But in order to get people on board, Solla adds a twist: “Our restaurants always have on offer six to nine types of salads, one raw dish, one cooked vegan or vegetarian dish and one chicken dish. We cook the chicken in a simple manner and then we add the raw sauces and good spices to get people used to the raw taste and texture. The purpose of this twist is to enable people who enjoy good raw and vegetarian food to come here and eat with their friends or spouses who do not share their taste in food … yet” she says and laughs. And once a

week they have meat free Mondays to raise awareness on how much water and land it takes to make one kilogram of meat. Her endeavours have not gone unnoticed outside of Iceland. Solla has in the last two years been voted “Favourite Raw Gourmet Chef” and “Favourite Raw Simple Chef” in the annual Best of Raw contest, which accepts nominations and votes through their website bestofrawfoods.com. This is indeed an exceptional honour for her and a priceless praise for Gló. Towards the end of our meeting, I asked this ridiculously busy woman if she never gets tired. She smiled and said: “Yes, but I have so much passion. The passion keeps me going. The days have been long in preparing the opening of the new restaurant, but I have been giddy as a little girl from excitement. I am so utterly convinced that Hippocrates was right when he said that we are what we eat. People are just people, they all have to eat. I want them to eat well and feel welcome.”

Gló Laugavegur 20b, 101 Reykjavík Engjateigur 19, 105 Reykjavík Strandgata 34, 220 Hafnafjörður Tel: +354 553 1111 www.glo .is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

“One of the standouts in recent cookbook releases” Iceland Review “...captures the extraordinary otherworldliness of the Icelandic landscape” Lonely Planet Magazine

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beautifully illustrated cookbook, a culinary saga of Iceland Zest Magazine

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“One of the standouts in recent cookbook releases” Iceland RevIew

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The Icelandic Horse A Faithful Servant and a Loyal Companion Someone once said that there are only two ways to properly explore Iceland; from the air and on horseback. All the SUVowners in the country will probably beg to differ but there is at least some truth in this. THE BACKSTORY Thousands of people in Iceland keep horses simply for the pleasure of riding and enjoying the companionship of these wonderful animals. The popularity of travelling on horseback has been growing continuously and Icelandic horsemen are considerate and respectful when it comes to both nature and their horses. The history of the Icelandic horse goes back to the country’s settlement in the late 9th century and the breed has remained pure for over a thousand years. There is and has always been only one breed of horses here – The Icelandic Horse. For centuries the horse was the only means of transportation and also the most important working animal, through the years it has been referred to as “our most essential servant”. Today there are close to 80.000 horses in Iceland, an incredible 14 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

number for a nation of 300.000 people. The horse is used for riding, travelling and competition purposes and still plays a practical role in the annual sheep and horse round-ups in the highlands. A FIRST CLASS RIDING CENTER Íshestar is a 30 year old company and one of the most well-established horse rentals in Iceland. They provide scheduled day tours, country side tours and highland tours up to 10 days long with airport transfer, full board and accommodation. This is the real thing. The Íshestar Riding Centre is unique here in Iceland with first class facilities set in the beautiful surroundings just outside Reykjavík and endless possibilities in riding, hiking and other outdoor activities. The company also offers boat trips, jeep safari and horse shows on demand and their Riding Centre includes a spacious restaurant with a fully licenced bar. TOURS ON HORSEBACK The scheduled tours vary in shapes and sizes from half hour tours for children to ten days of riding in the highlands. The many various day tours include riding in the wonderful surroundings at Hafnarfjörður and other locations but also mixing and matching horse riding with a visit to the Blue Lagoon, whale watching, biking, hiking and seeing the Northern Lights, to name a few. For longer trips, the country side and

highland tours offers many irresistible possibilities, I urge you to visit Íshestar’s website to see what I mean. I myself have had the pleasure of exploring the Icelandic highlands on horseback on several occasions. There is absolutely nothing like it. If you have the remotest interest in horses (and honestly, even if you don’t) and are ready to explore the highlands of our beautiful volcanic island, I guarantee you that Íshestar will take you on the adventure of a lifetime.

Íshestar Sörlaskeið 26, 221 Hafnafjörður Tel: +354 555 7000 www.ishestar.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Carrying on the Tradition A Knife at a Time One of the various entrepreneurs who have made themselves comfortable with their business at the Álafoss dell is the knife maker, Páll Kristjánsson, though everybody calls him Palli. Both he and his knifes are one of a kind. Upon entering his workshop, I was greeted (rather harshly) by a huge German shepherd. Of course he was already tied up and Palli called him down instantly so I had nothing to worry about. But there was something rather special in meeting a knife maker for the first time, surrounded by blades, wood, reindeer antlers and a dog the size of my car. Palli is the only knife maker in Iceland and to be honest, I doubt that they make knifes like his anywhere else in the world either. The blades vary in being hand-made copies of Iron Age or Viking Age designs from Denmark, Damascus steel, or factory-produced blades from other parts of Scandinavia. And each

handle or hilt is hand-made by Palli from reindeer antlers, sheep and cow bone and hoof, whale tooth and bone, and 12 millionyear-old trees (brown coal or fossils). He also uses various Icelandic stones and hikes both the highlands and lowlands of Iceland in search of materials; this man truly is the real thing. Not only that, but he also fashions the sheaths for the knives and they are no less evocative. Using leather, tree and skin from cow, seal and fish, he creates a unique and fitting holster for each knife. Often, like with

the handles, they are intricately patterned with Viking symbols and carvings. But you can ask for any writing or pattern. It is my solemn belief that when it comes to his labours of love, this man can do anything.

Knife maker - Palli Kristjansson Álafossvegur 29, 270 Mossfellsbær Tel: +354 566 7408 www.kitchenknifes.is

www.knifemaker.is

www.kitchenknives.is

Álafoss

The Small Dell with the Big History North of Reykjavik is a small town called Mosfellsbær. It is one of the smaller municipalities surrounding the capital, inhabited by just under 9000 people. It differs from the other suburban towns in being detached from the urban area, although Reykjavík keeps moving closer and closer. HOW IT USED TO BE In the heart of Mosfellsbær, up the Varmá river (e. the Warm River) is a small village within the village It is called Álafosskvosin, which in English can be referred to as “The Dell by the Waterfall of the Eels“. Yes, as cute as it gets. Because of the warmth of the river, this location spawned the first industrial cluster in Iceland in 1896. The river was utilised to clean and colour wool, which spawned the founding of the company Álafoss, which later became the main exporter of Icelandic woollen clothing and an empire as such, at least on an Icelandic scale. All of the buildings that make up this little gem of a dell originally belonged to and served the wool industry in one way or the other, but today they are part of a society made up by a coffee house, a recording studio, a carpenter’s workshop, a knife maker and the store named after the original wool exporters, Álafoss. HOW IT IS TODAY In addition to its magical location, the Álafoss store is an adventure in itself. Located in the old factory house that was used to drive the mills of the wool factory, it offers everything your heart could possibly desire when it comes to Icelandic woollen

products. From the traditional Icelandic “lopapeysa” (woollen sweater), handmade by knitters from all over the country, in all the colours and patterns they can think of, to high fashion woollen clothing, Icelandic jewellery, gift merchandise and souvenirs, this is a store that absolutely needs to be on your bucket list. Finally, if you are a knitter yourself, the store offers a handsome selection of knitting wool yarn of all types and colours plus recipes. After a visit to Álafoss, all you have to do is get started! MAKE IT SIMPLE But what truly makes Álafoss so magical is the history. On display at the store you will find a selection of old knitting machinery and photographs from the early days, and looking out of this 110 year old factory house, overseeing the Varmá River just outside the window, it is easy to imagine the power and foresight that turned this lovely little dell into a busy industrial site, buzzing with life and big dreams. Taking a walk outside, you can almost hear the voices of children spending their early 20th century summers diving into the warm river swimming pool. Life was simple back then. When you visit Álafoss, it becomes simple again.

Álafoss Alafossvegur 23, 270 Mosfellsbær Tel: +354 566 6303 www.alafoss.is 16 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Álafoss - Main Store Álafossvegi 23 270 Mosfellsbær

Álafoss - City Center Laugavegi 8 101 Reykjavík

The Kingdom of Steak It is a special place to walk into. The entrance is rather inconspicuous but after entering you find yourself in an almost medieval passageway that leads to a heavy wooden door. Behind it awaits half the kingdom in terms of good food. THERE’S A STORY The restaurant is not big, located on the first floor of Barónstígur 11, seating 80100 people. I remember when I first came there in 2003. I was accompanied by a man whose interest in food was, and still is, a bit uncanny but at the same time absolutely adorable. We had only just sat down in our comfy booth surrounded by woodwork and heavy South-American decorations when he said: “I know we haven’t tasted the food yet but I already really, really like this place.” ONCE UPON A TIME … Argentina Steakhouse was founded in 1989 and has since then been one of the rbest estaurants in Reykjavík. Having been owned by the same man since three months after it was founded makes it special. Having had only three head chefs in all that time makes it unique. The taste of their char grilled beef and lamb is unparalleled and much to the surprise of many, given this is a Steakhouse, their fish menu is also out of this world

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with carefully selected fish, shellfish and lobster. There is simply nothing like having the purest ingredients in the world grilled on wooden coals. Add the roaring fireplace, the leather sofas and chairs and fine selections of wines and this will be a night to remember. Argentina was the first steakhouse in Iceland to offer steaks by weight and some of the courses on the menu have been there for the almost quarter of a century since the restaurant opened. The Icelandic ox and lamb have remained unchanged since the settlement of Iceland some 1000 years ago. The ox has a small body compared to elsewhere; it develops slowly which makes the meat more stable and the muscles finer and more time for fat build-up. The Icelandic lamb is organic by nature; it is 100% drug free and feeds on herbs and shrubs in the Icelandic highlands that give it a gourmet game taste which is nowhere else to be found, and everybody knows that Icelandic seafood is the best in the world. When this is mixed with tradition, history, rustic leather, wooden interiors and impeccable service you get, the experience of dining out in Reykjavík becomes something else.

… THERE WAS A PRINCE. I have been to Argentina every year since that evening in 2003 with the same guy. After that first evening he insisted on us making this an annual thing. We are about to make reservations for our eleventh consecutive year in dining at Argentina Steakhouse on his birthday, he turns 21 in November. The atmosphere surrounding me dining out with my son on his big day has changed somewhat. Instead of drinking soda with our T-bone we order a nice bottle of wine, we stay longer and obviously talk about different things than when he was 11. What has not changed is Argentina Steakhouse. The high quality of the food and staff is the same; we are still greeted with flawless service and the best steak in town. In a society that changes all the time, with fashion going in its inevitable circles, it is priceless to have some things stay the same. Besides, as in the case of Argentina Steakhouse; if it’s perfect, why change it?

Argentina Steakhouse Baronsstigur 11a, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 551 9555 www.argentina.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

ÍGLÓ&INDÍ

EVERYBODY LOVES IT I have kids and I have friends who have kids. We talk. Lately, the brand name Igló&Indí has been popping up in conversation regarding clothing for our children. There has been talk of fun prints and comfortable cuts and more to my interest as a journalist, there has been talk of great success in introducing the brand abroad. You must understand that Iceland is a nation of just over 300.000 inhabitants. Whenever something of ours draws attention to itself overseas, it makes us proud, happy and last but not least, curious. I made it my business to find out more. 20 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

THE BEGINNING Igló&Indí was founded in 2008 by renowned designer and mother of three, Helga Ólafsdóttir. Comfort, style and creativity were here guiding lights when she started her now famous children’s line, along with the notion that the clothes should be favourites for both children and their parents. Now, I have a five year old son. We do not always see eye to eye regarding what to wear and do you know why? Because I want him to dress a bit stylishly sometimes but he prefers comfort over everything else. This is why Igló&Indí caught my attention. According to Helga, she gets most of her ideas from children and from Iceland, the place where children experience freedom and are allowed to play outside with other children, animals and figments of their imagination. What adds spice to this lovely mixture is that Helga studied in Copenhagen, London and Milan and had prior to founding the company been a designer of adult fashions for many years. The idea of Igló&Indí came to life when she lived in

the US with her husband and her then two children, a boy and a girl. She found

that there was lack of comfortable boy clothes that were also stylish and cool. In late 2008 she made her move and started her own company. Even if she did so in the middle of the Icelandic economic crash, the wheels started moving, the ball started rolling and Helga was in business. Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

THE NEXT PHASE Helga’s partner is Tinna Ólafsdóttir. She is a mother of four and has a degree in finance from the University of Iceland. She joined Igló&Indí as CEO in 2011. By then the company had expanded rapidly without the organization and infrastructure necessary to ensure future growth. Tinna’s background in business and retailing was just what the company needed to spread its wings. To begin with, Tinna’s involvement was intended to be a three month project. Now she has been with the company for three years and says that she

is in love with it. I met Tinna at her office and I can assure you that her words are no overstatement. At this point in time, Igló&Indí is becoming increasingly popular in Northern-Europe, the United Kingdom, Scandinavia as well as, interestingly, in Australia. The current company goal is to become a leading Scandinavian brand in Northern-Europe. THE SECRET TO THEIR SUCCESS Don’t get too excited; Tinna and Helga did not hand over to me the recipe for creating a popular children’s clothing brand. I will however share with you what magic I managed to capture during my visit to their office. Igló&Indí have an excellent product and an unusually strong logo but that alone does not a clothing label make. In Tinna’s own words, none of that matters if you do not have the right staff. Their team is unusually spirited and they swap ideas and criticism like there is no tomorrow. They are highly motivated with exceptional drive and they all walk in rhythm most of the time. Bottom line: The best business idea in the world will never amount to anything without the right people to execute it. MOTHER AND SON (RE)UNION My son would wear sweat pants and a long-sleeved t-shirt every day if it were up to him. However, it is not up to him, it is up to me. Every now and then I want him to wear something stylish to match his stylish parents. (His stylish mother, to be exact. Let’s face it, the boy gets his fashion sense from his father.) It may sound like a cliché and so be it, but Igló&Indí have made my life easier. By now, there is no debate, no negotiations and no hassle when my little

We’ll take you there!

nugget and I go to birthday parties or the theatre on the weekends. We agree on what he should wear on every occasion because we have found a clothing line that meets both our needs. To be honest, and you cannot tell him I said so, if Igló&Indí also made clothes that fit his father, all of my problems in life would magically disappear.

Igló&Indí Skólavörðustígur 4, 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 571 9006 Kringlan Mall, 105 Reykjavik Tel: +354 517 7913 www.igloandindi.com Reykjavik Excursions | 21

Rustic Luxury under the Glacier

Búðir is located on the southern part of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. It used to be a place of commerce during the settlement, and it became a trading centre in the 17th century. It was popular in the old days to base fishingboats at Búðir and a hundred years ago this was one of the best places in the country to hunt sharks. Today, Búðir is the seat of one of the beautiful countryside hotels in Iceland.

NEW ON TOP OF OLD The hotel sits in a lava field on the westernmost tip of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. It was originally built as a reconstructive addition to an old apartmentstore complex in Búðir. The first guests arrived in the summer of 1948. Since then, the running of the hotel and restaurant has been in the hands of many, with different emphasis at different times. Hotel Búðir has always been renowned for great food and the unique aura of power and mystery delivered by Snæfellsjokull glacier to those who stay in its vicinity. The hotel was rebuilt in the years 2001-2003 after having been completely destroyed in a fire in February 2001. The new hotel was constructed in the spirit of the old building and specialists agree that the designers did and outstanding job in maintaining the atmosphere of the old hotel. It is safe to say that every single one of the 28 rooms and suites is a work of art. BABY, WILL YOU MARRY ME? In my dreams, this hotel is where I would get married. The main dining room sits 80 people and the church sits 70 people, but some lovely alternatives in the beautiful weather that Snæfellsnes peninsula sometimes has to offer would be the beach or the lava field or the harbor at the hotel. In the eyes of many of my friends and family, Búðir is one of their favorite places in Iceland and for good reason.

JOURNEY TO THE CENTER OF ALL GOOD THINGS The sights and wonders surrounding this beautiful oasis of good food and natural beauty are endless. Exceptional beaches, endless lava, seals swimming in the North-Atlantic and a hidden hot spring you can bathe in are just a few of the wonders you’ll encounter. But ever watchful is Snæfellsjokull glacier. This natural work of art is where Jule Verne placed his book, Journey to the Center of the Earth and the glacier is believed to have great supernatural powers. To spend time in this spectacular landscape in a luxury hotel with supreme food and drink is something I think everybody should indulge themselves with at least once in their lives. It does not matter if you are an Icelander or a citizen of a foreign country on your first visit to our lovely island, visiting Hotel Búðir is always going to be the experience of a lifetime.

Hótel Búðir Búðir, 365 Snæfellsnes Tel: +354 435 6700 www.hotelbudir.is 22 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

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A Journey to the Center of the Earth and more Taking a glimpse of the wonders of Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Snæfellsnes has everything and a bag of chips! In Snæfellsnes you can see a microcosm of all Iceland in a convenient Reykjavik Excursions day trip from Reykjavik. It has majestic mountain views, black-sand beaches and a volcano and glacier rolled into one (a Volclacier? A Glacano?) and scattered around the scenery you find quaint little towns with interesting histories, as told by their local folk museums. SNÆFELLSJÖKULL – THE ENTRANCE TO THE CENTER OF THE EARTH. One of the most interesting things on Snæfellsnes is without a doubt Snæfellsjökull glacier, which sits atop an active volcano at the tip of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. The volcano is 700.000 years old and has erupted about 20 times since the last ice age. In his book a “Journey to the center of the earth” Jules Verne used Snæfellsjökull as the point of entry through which Lidenbrock and his team start their journey. In the park, among other things, you will find Djúpalónssandur black-sand beach. There you can test your strength with the three rocks, Strong, Full-Strong and Half-Strong. These were used by sailors of ages past to compete in strength and the heaviest one is 154 kg! (339 pounds!)

ARNARSTAPI Arnarstapi is a long-abandoned fishing village which comes to life in the summertime, with fishermen sailing from the harbour and people spending their summers in local cottages. It has a camp ground, an inn and a restaurant. Here you can hike around the surrounding area and enjoy the mind-blowing rock formations of the coastlines from the observation deck to which the RE tour will take you. STYKKISHÓLMUR. Stykkishólmur is a picturesque and beautiful fishing town with only 1100 inhabitants, but this doubles in the summertime with all the fishermen and tourists. It serves as the center of transportation for the area – it’s where you catch the ferry for Flatey Island and Brjánslækur in the Westfjords. The town has many wooden houses from the 19th and

early 20th century. The oldest of these is the Norwegian House, built in 1832, which now houses the local folk museum. Stykkishólmur also has a volcano museum and a swimming pool, among other things. From Stykkishólmur you can also catch one of a selection of fascinating boat tours, which also available through Reykjavik Excursions. Among them are scenic tours where you can explore the whales, dolphins and the incredibly diverse birdlife of the Breiðafjörður bay. On at least one of the tours you can even sample “Viking Sushi” seafood fresh from the sea. That’s just three of the countless interesting things to see, not even mentioning the scattered little farms, the area’s rich history (the peninsula was where the Saga of the Icelanders, one of the main historical sources of Iceland was written, as well as being the setting of the ancient Laxdæla), the magnificent Gerðuberg basalt columns, mountains like Helgafell and Hólahólar(the Hill-hills), and many other things. To learn more, book a trip and see for yourself! Tours of the whole area and all the sights are available through Reykjavik Excursions.

Reykjavik Excursions BSI Bus Terminal, Vatnsmyrarvegur 10, 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 564 4776 www.re.is 24 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

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WWW.SEAFOODGRILL.IS — TEL: +354 571 1100 SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGUR 14 - 101 REYKJAVÍK

The Golden Circle

If you ask anyone what the number one tourist attraction in Iceland is, the answer is clear: The Golden Circle. It is without a doubt the best known and best publicised day tour in the country with the best access and the highest number of organised seats per day. For instance, Reykjavik Excursions has this tour scheduled every day of the week at 9am, all year round, with guidance in English, German, French and Scandinavian. The question is: Why?

26 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

The Golden Circle is a 300 km loop that usually opens and closes in Reykjavik. It covers three main locations: Þingvellir National Park, the waterfall Gullfoss and the erupting geyser Strokkur in Haukadalur. ÞINGVELLIR Þingvellir National Park is a historical and geological wonder, located in fields of the beautiful vegetation north of Þingvallavatn, the largest lake in Iceland. There you will find the famous rift Almannagjá where the Eurasian and American tectonic plates are pulling

apart by a few centimetres each year. Þingvellir was the founding place of Iceland’s Parliament in 930 and the venue for annual parliament meetings until 1798. Þingvellir is also the place where in 999 or 1000 it was decided that Iceland should be a Christian nation and where Iceland declared its independence from Denmark in 1944. There is nothing more Icelandic than Þingvellir. Even the least patriotic Icelander will experience feelings of loyalty and commitment upon walking through there. It is sacred and it is who we are.

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GULLFOSS Then we have the two attractions in Biskupstungur, a waterfall and a geyser. The waterfall Gullfoss (Icelandic for golden waterfall) is in the river Hvítá and is 32 metres high where it plunges into the 70 metre deep canyon surrounding it. In the early 20th century there were many who felt strongly that Gullfoss should be harnessed for production of electricity. This plan was abandoned when the daughter of the main advocate threatened to throw herself in the waterfall. The State of Iceland acquired the waterfall in 1940 and it has been on the state preservation list since 1979. Nobody ever speaks with solemnity of harnessing it anymore, it is considered priceless in its natural state. This has even developed into a phrase within certain circles in the country so that when you suggest something inanely stupid you get replied to with the words: And then what? Sell Gullfoss? GEYSIR Haukadalur valley, where both Gullfoss and the geyser Strokkur are located, is a very active geothermal area. In addition to Strokkur and his brother Geysir, Haukadalur is the home of a multitude of mud pools, fumaroles and algal deposits. Strokkur erupts once every 4-8 minutes and reaches a height of 15-20 m, sometimes it goes as high as 40 m up in the air. It is spectacular, scary and very Icelandic. But then again, so are many, many, many other locations in Iceland. We have geothermal areas and awesome waterfalls all over the place. So why is this 300 km loop such a phenomenon when it comes to tourism? Ask anybody and they will tell you that if you only have one day in Iceland, spend it on the Golden Circle. Why? It has been argued that any wonder of nature that can me fitted into a day tour from Reykjavik, has nice roads and shops and catering at the other end would become an attraction. The argument is basically that it is simply combination of these factors that has made the Golden Circle what it is. I must admit that this is an argument that I have found myself making from time to time in pure irritation over the popularity of this particular waterfall over all the others. But I’ve been thinking and I have a theory: When my parents were kids, people used to go for a drive on Sundays. Sometimes just within the city limits but on nice summer days the Sunday-drive concept was taken to the next level. Is it possible that this is when the Golden Circle came to be? The trip We’ll take you there!

would take the entire day and the roads were nothing like what they are now but all the same. People would make a packed lunch, eat it on Þingvellir, go to Geysir for afternoon coffee (where there has been coffee for sale since 1928!) and be back home in Reykjavik by dinner time. And now that I think about it, that is why the Golden Circle is so popular. Because in the old days it was OUR main attraction and when the tourists started pouring in, showing interest and asking

where to go we naturally told them, without even a moment’s hesitation, to go where we have been going for decades. So the Golden Circle being what it is really just says one thing about Icelanders; We are a “mi casa su casa” sort of folk and we want you to enjoy the same things we do. So I welcome you, no implore you, to go see the Golden Circle if it’s the only trip you make out of town while you’re here.

Reykjavik Excursions | 27

The Light of Our Lives Iceland, silly as the name can seem during the summer months, was named so for a reason. In the old days, before electricity and heating when the cold and dark actually killed people, selfpreservation and innovation were the key to surviving. It is a wonderful thing that one of the best known brands in Icelandic export is a product that has helped the Icelandic nation survive since the settlement. It‘s called lýsi and we are so proud of it. Our Norwegian settlers brought with them the knowledge of how to process lýsi which in simplified terms is oil from the livers of the animals in the sea. They made it from whale, shark, fish, seal and even birds and used it as fuel for light, to calm waves, to soften and protect the clothing of seafarers and as a nutritional supplement for both humans and animals. For a time it was even used as currency, as sources from as far back as 1096 state that church taxes in Iceland were paid in the form of this life saving, smelly liquid. The name “lýsi“ comes from the product having been used as lamp oil, in Icelandic the verb “lýsa“ means “to illuminate“ and when living this close to the Arctic Circle one can only imagine how

precious it must have been to be able to have light in the house. Add to that the fact that lýsi is a valuable source of vitamins A and D (in a country where the sun is absent most of the time and low in the sky when it does show its face) and it becomes an understatement to say that lýsi has had a real impact on survival in this country. The method of processing lýsi from the liver in the old days was, in the simplest terms I can think of, something like this: They dug a hole, put the liver in the hole and waited for the oil to squirt out. Nevertheless, Lýsi was the biggest export product of Iceland as early as the 14th century, along with dried fish and woollen cloth. THE BEGINNING In 1938 a man named Tryggvi Ólafsson founded a production and export company and called it simply LYSI . He had then spent the decade before trading and experimenting with lýsi, first in a small lab he prepared in his home. At the time he founded LYSI, the company was considered a pioneer in the production of marine lipids and later became a global leader in the field. The company’s research has been on-going for decades and today LYSI is at the world forefront of research and product development. Tryggvi had a seat on the board until he was 96 years old and it was in the year 1981 that the first nonfamily member became president of the company. In 1999 the company changed owners again and has been run by Katrín Pétursdóttir and her family since then. Katrín

28 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

is the granddaughter of Tryggvi Ólafsson. Her parents left LYSI in 1981 and founded Fiskafurðir, a company in similar ventures as LYSI. It was a happy day when they gained ownership of what had been founded by her grandfather over 60 years earlier. In April 2007, LYSI was awarded the President of Iceland’s Award for Export Achievement for its “unique achievement in the sales and marketing of marine lipid products and for the vision the company demonstrates in product development and for the build-up of knowledge and expertise in its field.” THE REST IS HISTORY Every child in Iceland knows that there is no way of growing up to be big and strong without having a spoonful of Lýsi with breakfast every day. They have no idea what Omega-3 and vitamins A and D do for them and at that point they don‘t care. This is tradition. This is what mummy and daddy raise them to do because their parents told them to and that has been the way of things in this country for hundreds of years. But the LYSI product line has more to offer than just classic cod liver oil in a glass bottle. The company now has various production lines, including shark liver oil, omega-3 fish oil and various blister products where in addition to the lýsi itself the customer is provided with vitamins and minerals to go with the ever so healthy liver oil we all love. But the majority of the company’s turnover comes from a tradition of 700 years, exporting cod liver oil in bulk. And in a country that is consumed with nostalgia, you can just begin to imagine how loving and respecting LYSI is branded into our dark-enduring, hard-working Icelandic soul. It’s part of who we are. Simple as that. Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

5 0 m i ni atu r e e s s ays on th e q u i r k s a n d f oi bles of t h e ic ela ndi c peop l e

Get to know the Icelanders

The Gem of Reykjavík

Perlan, or The Pearl in English, opened in June 1991. It is one of the capital’s landmarks and an amazing construct, a gigantic dome that connects six geothermal water tanks, who each has the capacity to store 4 million liters of geothermal water. Situated on the top of Öskjuhlíð hill, The Pearl can be seen from all over and serves as one of the greatest locations for sightseeing in the Reykjavík area. A CONSTRUCT LIKE NO OTHER The dome is made from glass and steel bars that not only connect the water tanks and form the dome-like structure, but also supply the building with heat. The steel shell is, in fact, a gigantic radiator. In cold weather during the winter, warm water flows through the steel shell. In the warm summer days, cold water flows through the shell and serves as a cooler. That is how the temperature within the dome is regulated to keep an even temperature all year round and make this beautiful construction truly amazing. There is much to see within this remarkable structure. The fourth floor cafeteria is surrounded by a broad deck from which you can enjoy a panoramic view of the city. On a bright day, the view there is simply

30 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

spectacular. Another fun feature is the indoor geyser imitation. This powerful gadget creates an indoor hot spring that can reach meters into the air. Quite intense actually! A VIEW FROM THE TOP The pearl within The Pearl is the restaurant on the top floor. With its rotating floor and an unparalleled view, it is one of the most popular restaurants in Reykjavík and rightfully so. The Pearl is a landmark that should not be overlooked by anyone who visits our nation’s capital and the same goes for the restaurant. It is only fitting to mix the magnificent view and impressive architecture with food prepared by some of Iceland’s greatest chefs. Some of the Pearl’s chefs are even members of the Club des Chefs des Chefs, a membership of chefs who prepare food for presidents and other national leaders and VIP’s. I have had the pleasure of dining in the Pearl’s restaurant on several occasions, and it really is an absolute favourite of mine. Whether it is their wild game buffet, their Christmas buffet or a la carte, whatever the occasion, the Pearl offers nothing but impeccable service and exquisite food. One thing to note is that Perlan restaurant places high emphasis on creating everything from the ground up. As such, you’ll find that the delicious ice cream served is made on location, by the highly qualified staff. Likewise, their bread, pastry and other such items are made right there. This is really in line with the quality focus that surrounds every aspect of the Perlan Restaurant. Dining there, one can really sense that everyone is working towards the same goal – that of customer satisfaction.

But that is not all. Dining there comes with a very special feeling which is difficult to put into words. I guess that the word which is best suited to describe this experience is festive. Not only does it feel both classy and fancy, but it has the ring of true celebration, to dine below this huge dome, seated on a rotating floor with a view of the entire capital, the mountains, the ocean, and if you are there at night in the wintertime, the city lights and the stars. It makes me feel like a princess. And that, my friends, is a feeling that I like.

Perlan Öskjuhlíð, 105 Reykjavík Tel: +354 562 0200 www.perlan.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Reykjavík Ísafjörður Akureyri

June 25th - July 13th July 16th - July 20th July 23rd - August 3rd

Selfoss Keflavík Reykjavík

August 6th - August 10th August 13th - August 17th August 20th - August 24th

From City Lights to Super Jeeps

Snowmobiles are great fun and easy to operate. All the Mountaineers’ snowmobiles are two seated touring sleds with hand warmers and a high windshield. Participants can choose between a double and a single ride. Just remember to bring your driver‘s licence and make sure it‘s valid. To them, safety is the biggest issue and everyone engaged in their activity service operations have extensive experience in the tourism industry and in activity operations. The strictest safety standards are always employed. All participants are provided with necessary gear like warm overalls, helmets, boots and gloves. 32 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

The Mountaineers of Iceland offer day tours where 1 hour of snowmobiling is included: The Express Activity Tour and the Pearl Tour. The Pearl Tour takes you on the Golden Circle, but with a snowmobiling twist. This tour allows visitors to get in touch with some of Iceland’s most famous and exciting natural phenomena and add a glacial adventure to it. It takes you to all the must-sees; Þingvellir National Park, Geysir hot spring, Gullfoss (English: The Golden Waterfall) and then they kick the action into higher gear to get even closer to Iceland’s nature and go for a snowmobiling tour on Langjökull, Iceland’s second largest glacier. If you have a knack for adventure and the need for speed, this day trip offers Iceland‘s best and then some. To be the operator of an open motorized vehicle on your way up to the second largest glacier of a volcanic island will introduce you to a feeling to which there is no comparison. Mind you, everybody is allowed to go at their own pace to start with and if you would rather double up with your partner and sit in the back, the experience will still provide you with something to share with your grandchildren. If you are on a tight schedule while staying in our beautiful country, the Express Activity tour might be more suitable for you. It takes you to Langjökull or a snow area in the mountains. Once there,

you will embark upon an exhilarating one hour snowmobiling tour across endless white fields of snow. This is a great way to combine the experience of some awe-inspiring scenery and an adrenalinefilled activity. But this isn’t everything. The Mountaineers also own and operate super jeeps and trucks which have been specially modified to get to glaciers and other remote areas by the rugged mountain tracks of the highlands, inaccessible by normal cars. Their super jeeps have extra-large tires, 38 and 44 inches, so they can get their guests to areas that no other vehicles can. As if that isn’t enough, the biggest “car” of the fleet is a modified ManKat 8x8 army truck for up to 56 passengers! All the Mountaineers’ Jeeps have radio transceivers for communication between cars and a GPS Satellite Navigation System so whether you want to go on a scheduled trip or design your own Icelandic adventure, you are in good hands. If you are in the mood for a mystery-filled tour in a super jeep, that can also be arranged. The Mountaineers have put together a special tour spiced with excitement and surprises, away from the city lights and into the barren landscape in the outskirts of Reykjavík in search of the elusive Northern Lights. On a clear night and with a little luck you can see the lights swirl around in dramatic shapes across the night sky. Let me tell you on behalf of everybody who has witnessed such an amazing sight; life will always be a little bit better for it.

Mountaineers of Iceland Skútuvogur 12e, 104 Reykjaík Tel: +354 580 9900 www.mountaineers.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

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info@theviking.is www.theviking.is

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Celebrating Design Bringing style to Iceland since 1975 Epal is a company that is lovingly familiar to all Icelanders. It was founded almost 40 years ago when young Eyj贸lfur P谩lsson returned from studying furniture design in Copenhagen. He soon realised that there were things missing in Iceland for him to carry through his projects in the way he would have chosen. It was this shortage that lead to the founding of Epal.

34 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

ONCE UPON A TIME ... of furniture has then evolved over the years to confirm to the standards of Because the Industrial Revolution started modernity. Epal has always strived to late in Scandinavia, Swedish, Finnish and offer the best of Scandinavian design at Danish designers created modern design any given time. Famous items such as using traditional materials and handcrafts The Egg and Series 7 by back in the early Arne Jakobsen, PH 5 20th century and This is the sort of store by Poul Henningsen that use of easily and timeless giftware you can always walk out available wood by Iittala and Georg types and traditional of feeling like you have Jensen have been craftsmanship is a invested in beauty and style. available in Epal for continuing trend in decades. But the list Scandinavian design. of design items available Scandinavian furniture is extremely long and very interesting. is of a unique and stimulating class and This is the sort of store you can always this widely known common term applies walk out of feeling like you have invested to furniture from Sweden, Denmark, in beauty and style. Norway, Finland and Iceland. This type

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THE VISIONARY and designers. With a strong, joined effort we could come a long way Eyjólfur’s objective through the years in improving the conditions of has been to increase understanding and Icelandic designers who are respect for good design and quality advancing rapidly both home products by introducing first class design and abroad.” Eyjólfur stepped and offering noted design labels from down from running Epal in 2010 and Scandinavia and other countries. But his handed the torch over to his son, main passion has always revolved around Kjartan Páll Eyjólfsson. supporting Icelandic designers Eyjólfur admits that and he has strived to assist We offer he still has strong in promoting their work. In opinions regarding classical items his own words: “I realised everything remotely a long time ago that good that never go out related to the things happen at a slow of style. running of Epal pace. When you feel like but now that the things aren’t happening fast store is in his son’s enough it is best to take a capable hands he has more time deep breath, look at things in perspective to work on his passion: to help and realise that Iceland has an abundance young Icelandic designers of well educated, hardworking people make their way in the jungle doing great things and working together out there. in achieving their mutual goals. At Epal, we want to support this in any way we THE STORES can by helping Icelandic designers put With this beautiful vision as a their ideas into action.” In an article guiding light, Epal has flourished Eyjólfur published in 2004 he addresses in the past four decades and there are this point even further: “Up until now three Epal stores in Iceland. The flag store Iceland has been far behind the other is located in Skeifan, Reykjavík, filled with Nordic countries in supporting design love, beautiful furniture, design ornaments

and gorgeous crockery. Epal also have a store at Keflavik Airport Duty Free that focuses mainly on smaller design products and gifts, perfect for visiting on your way back from your stay in Iceland. The most recent addition is a store in Harpa, the Reykjavik Conference Hall and Concert Centre. Harpa has since its opening in May 2011 become one of the most renowned architectural works of art in Iceland so it is very fitting for Epal to have a store there and for Icelandic and Scandinavian design to shine and flourish within the walls of our beloved and longawaited music hall. When asked what era of furniture fashion most impresses him, Eyjólfur replies: “It is hopeless to speak of fashion when it comes to furniture and house accessories and I would rather not do that. We offer classical items that never go out of style. I think it is very important for people to invest in items that can withstand the test of time.”

Epal Skeifan 6, 108 Reykjavík Tel: +354 568 7740 www.epal.is We’ll take you there!

Reykjavik Excursions | 35

Step Back in Time with the Vikings

What is the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Iceland? Björk, volcanic eruptions and heaps of snow? Well, you wouldn’t be too far off – but what about the Vikings? The Viking heritage is the cornerstone of Icelandic culture. These gritty, fierce guys who built the country originally, after having sailed over the North Atlantic on small boats, powered by sail and oars, sometimes in questionable weather and always with little to eat or drink. Without them, none of us would be here. VIKING HISTORY AT THE HEART OF HAFNARFJÖRÐUR The Viking Village in Hafnarfjörður has been a town landmark for over two decades. The two oldest houses in the village cluster were built in the mid-1800s. In the early 1900s the older of the two was connected to the fishing trawler industry of the town, which later became a flourishing fishing industry contributing to the growth and development of Hafnarfjörður. In 1985 the town council consented to have the house demolished but the National Committee of Building Preservation was against it and the building was saved. Since then, the Viking

Village has been under constant care and renovation and has long since become a permanent part of the Hafnarfjörður landscape and culture. TWO THEMED VILLAGES The Viking Village is a unique place and it is the only Viking theme Hotel and restaurant in Iceland. We have step by step been developing our facilities over the last 24 years and will hopefully continue to do so in the future. We offer Hotel accommodation and Viking houses. The Viking Village is located in a lovely town by the harbour called Hafnarfjörður but is in the Reykjavík area, it only takes 10 minutes to drive to Reykjavík city center. Good for families and groups. In the hotel we have 41 rooms and then we have 14 cottages that can fit up to six people in each cottage. In the hotel we have free wifi, TV, hair dryer, coffee and tea maker, free parking, 24 hours reception and outside the hotel we have hot tup and sauna that our guests can use for free.

The Viking Village

In the Viking Village we have two restaurants, Fjörukráin and Vallhalla. Valhalla can seat 50 guests and Fjörukráin can seat 400 guests. Most nights we have live entertainment in the restaurants. The Fisherman’s Village is our newest accommodation and restaurant and is located in Hlið, Álftanes only few minutes drive from the Viking Village. Like a country home by the seaside, such an idyllic place to visit. The restaurant is open for groups in the evenings and there we have singer that comes and sing for the guests while they have dinner. Hlið is close to the president’s residence.

The Viking Village

The Fisherman’s Village 38 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Strandgata 55, 220 Hafnafjörður Tel: +354 565 1213 www.vikingvillage.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

EXPERIENCE The Golden Circle Treat yourself to Icelandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most popular pizza. Call us at 58 12345, we deliver right to your room!

TEL. 58 12345

We are Sign Sign is a wonderful example of the power, dedication and entrepreneurship that have characterised Icelandic operations for centuries. But Sign has taken this unique way of thinking a step further; they have excelled at it. IT STARTED WITH A CHANGE OF PACE Sign was founded in 2004 by jeweller Sigurdur Ingi Bjarnason, known as Ingi. He had at that time been working as a goldsmith in Iceland for over a decade and was no stranger to the jewellery business. Eight years ago Ingi wanted a change and he was focusing on two things; creating his own jewellery line and spending more time with his children. So he started a business out of his garage (honestly, it doesn’t get any more Icelandic than that) and today he makes seven of the most popular design lines in Icelandic jewellery and the company has outgrown the garage a long time ago. But the funny thing is that his place of business still feels like home. Walking into the Sign workshop/store at the Hafnarfjörður marina is quite an experience. This stylishly renovated fisherman’s hut has been their base since 2008 and was quite a step up from Ingi’s garage. A year ago they expanded again but this time into the adjacent space at the marina, doubling the

size of their work space. Sign has three full time goldsmiths and an intern working on the forging and two multi-tasking warriors that connect the company to the outside world. The spirit in the workplace is that of joy, team-spirit and fellowship and that’s the way the owner likes it. “This company is not just me. Sign only exists in its current form because of the people who work here” says Ingi and his assistant Katla adds: “We are all part of the chain and it is very important that we share the load and are linked into what the others are doing. That way we create the synergy effect that makes Sign so unique.” FORGING THE MYSTIQUE OF ICELANDIC NATURE The Sign jewellery is designed to be an experience. They are structured on the mystique of Icelandic nature, interwoven with the landscape, the lava and the sea, fire and ice. Ingi has always emphasised good co-operation with other artists in Iceland and he is a firm believer in that artists of all

genres need to stick together and help each other out. He has always been ardent in his support and one day he thought it would be fun to join some of his artist friends in a photo ad. As a result, the photo above is the third annual advertisement for Sign where Icelandic artists gather in a photo wearing Sign jewellery. By now these are awaited with anticipation and the result this year is particularly fantastic. You can find Sign products in 24 stores around the country, a list of retailers is on their website. They are very strong in the Icelandic market, both with their exceptional design and also with how well they service their retailers. Sign’s prime goal is to make top quality items and serve their clients the best they can. If you have the chance to stop by their workshop at the Hafnarfjörður marina, I guarantee that whether you are there for having them custom make the jewel of your dreams or wanting to look through their collections, a visit there will be nothing but interesting and pleasurable because their happy attitude is absolutely contagious.

Sign Fornubúðir 12, 220 Hafnafjörður Tel: +354 555 0800 www.sign.is 40 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

ICELANDIC LOCAL BEER PLATTER

All the Games and all the Action Live Music Every Night Sunny Outdoor Area Save Water, Drink Beer AUSTURSTRÆTI 12 • 101 REYKJAVÍK • ENSKIBARINN@ENSKIBARINN.IS

Reykjanes History, Legends and Geothermal Power Reykjanes is the peninsula closest to Reykjavík, making it an easy place to day-trip, and the international airport at Keflavík lies at its farthest tip, so you’ll probably get a taste of its scenery on your drive to Reykjavík. The peninsula is marked by endless lava fields with distant mountain views, geothermal areas and cute little villages.

Starting out from Reykjavík, we suggest going east and taking the mountain road to the historic town of Eyrarbakki. On the way there you will feel you’re on another planet as you pass through moss-covered lava fields that stretch as far as the eye can see. Eyrarbakki was a major trading center and larger than Reykjavík only a hundred years ago, and still has many historic houses, including the local museum known only as “the House”, and the church whose altarpiece was painted and gifted by the queen of Denmark. From here, you’ll want to head west to the legendary Strandarkirkja church. This church is the richest church in the country, despite being situated way out in the middle of nowhere, due to an old superstition that donating to its coffers will bring good luck. This all stems from the old legend, which tells of a sailor who stranded just off the coast with a shipment of wood to build himself a house. He was at death’s door when an angel came to him, and he promised to use his wood to build a church where he came ashore if only the angel would spare his life. This was pleasing to the angel who accepted and saved his life, and the man was as good as his word and built the church there. This route leads you naturally the southern Reykjanes route to Krýsuvík,

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a geothermal hot spot where you’ll find numerous bubbling mud pools and steaming fumaroles. After this, travelling west along the peninsula and stopping for some lobster soup in Grindavík, you can stop by the mythical Gunnuhver fumarole, which is a hot spring so very hot, that only steam - and no water - is seen there. According to the 400-yearold story a woman named Guðrún Önundardóttir, nicknamed “Gunna”, was harshly treated by the county sheriff, died and rose from the grave to exact her revenge. She then continued to terrorize the countryside until the local priest lured her into the hot spring with a ball of yarn, and she has stayed there ever since. In the same area you can visit Reykjanesviti lighthouse and walk along the dramatic sheer rock coastline, with a view over the unique island Eldey. Traveling north from here, stop by the Bridge Between the Continents before a relaxing dip in the Blue Lagoon on your way back to the city. As luck would have it, Reykjavik Excursions offer a tour of the Reykjanes peninsula with the option of being dropped off at the Blue Lagoon and returning home at your leisure. Experience the essence of Iceland’s nature, history and mythology in this interesting area only a stone’s throw away from Reykjavik City.

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

An Old, Food Serving Friend The bus terminal in Reykjavik is commonly known as BSI. It is THE bus terminal in Iceland. Since its foundation in the late 60‘s, it has been the hub for all bus travel in the country. BSI is conveniently located in central Reykjavik and serving food has been a part of life at the bus terminal since the beginning. THE TERMINAL TRADITION The bus terminal café/bistro is called Fljótt & Gott and they serve traditional Icelandic food, which has been the BSI food service trademark for almost 50 years. The atmosphere in BSI is very cosmopolitan since it serves as the centre for bus travel in Iceland. The terminal has hundreds of thousands of guests passing through each year, both foreign and domestic. With daily trips to and from the international airport at Keflavik, this really is a busy place. The terminal restaurant Fljótt & Gott has a rich history and is one of the oldest restaurants in the country. It is safe to say that the tradition connected to Fljótt & Gott is very strong and the experience there is without precedent. It welcomes everybody to their comfortable and family-friendly environment where everybody can find something to their liking. Every day from 10:30am to 3:00pm, Fljótt 44 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

& Gott serves affordable local food, as close to Icelandic home cooking as it gets. But their grill is open from 7:00am to 11:00pm every day, serving burgers, steak, deep fried fish, sandwiches and other conventional grill dishes along with wine, beer or sodas. AND SOME THINGS REMAIN THE SAME There are two things that Fljótt & Gott are probably most famous for. First I would like to mention their serving of singed sheep heads, a traditional Icelandic dish which people either love or hate with absolutely no middle ground. This course goes back to when the country was so poor that every little piece of meat had to be utilized. I can still remember my son bursting into tears of terror on the first and only occasion he tasted this alleged delicacy. But I can also tell you that those of my family members who do appreciate singed sheep heads fall

into a trance of happiness every time this old tradition ends up on their dinner table. The second thing is their drive-through. Many of us who grew up out in the country remember trips to Reykjavik with our parents, sitting in the back seats of smokefilled cars with no seatbelts. The drivethrough at BSI was a fixed stop for us outof-towners back in the day. A hot dog and a soda for the whole family at the bus terminal drive-through is a cherished childhood memory for so many of us that the Fljótt & Gott is almost an old friend to our minds. An old friend that serves food.

Fljótt & Gott Vatnsmyrarvegur 10, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 552 1288 www.fljottoggott.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

th S t w e op udy w t a w io ll .io ns yo o .is n

Scheduled Busses & Bus Passports SUMMER 2014

Hiking On Your Own The Hiking On Your Own Passport is the ideal way to experience two of Iceland’s most popular hiking routes. You simply purchase one passport and with it you get bus transfer from Reykjavík to the base of the hike and again to Reykjavík from the hike’s destination when you are done. You can take as much time for the hike as you please, provided it falls within the passport’s time frame (13 June – 7 September). The passport is valid for one transfer in either direction. There are three variations of the Hiking On Your Own passport depending on your preference; Hiking Laugavegur; Hiking Fimmvörðuháls and Hiking Laugavegur & Fimmvörðuháls. You choose between the three options available when you purchase the passport and they determine which routes your passport is valid for. Hiking On Your Own is a great option for individuals and groups alike.

Reykjavík – Þórsmörk Reykjavík – Landmannalaugar Reykjavík – Skógar * Groups will have to be booked beforehand.

E XPO • w ww.expo.is

Free WiFi on board Reykjavik Excursions coaches.

R O

BSI Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík •

580 5400 • main@re.is • www.re.is • www.ioyo.is

“ZOMG REYKJAVIK HAS A BIG LEBOWSKITHEMED BAR!” Tweeted by @caitlinmoran - Followers: 499,268 – A Journalist for The Times. Ever seen the 1998 cult classic “The Big Lebowski” by the Coen brothers? Of course you have! Everybody has. But for those of you unfamiliar with the concept (you really should see this movie though) it involves the “Dude” Lebowski, mistaken for a millionaire Lebowski, who seeks reimbursement for a ruined rug and enlists his bowling buddies to help get it. In Reykjavík, we, now, have a bar based on the concept. YEAH, WELL. THE DUDE ABIDES. Lebowski Bar on Laugavegur opened in April 2012 and immediately became a huge hit. The general idea was to combine a bar with a diner styled grill, furnished in The Big Lebowski bowling style. Among the many great happenings at Lebowski Bar you will find are the Wednesday night Beer-Bingo and Thursday night Movie-Quiz, followed by the Lebowski house band with their ever so popular blues cover songs. The bar can serve up to 300 people with food and drink in four dining areas so every individual or group can be seated comfortably. Their Diner Menu offers a variety of Lebowski burgers and milk shakes. The crown jewel, however, is definitely the White Russian Menu, made up purely of Vodka and Kahlua-based cocktails. 46 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

THAT RUG REALLY TIED THE ROOM TOGETHER The location of Lebowski Bar, along with its brilliant concept-design, is a big contributor to its success. Laugavegur is the main shopping and bar-hopping street in Reykjavik. Virtually everybody goes there at one time or another, both locals and visitors. Lebowski Bar has through its location been both frequented by regulars and attended by passers-by and foreign visitors equally. I checked out Lebowski bar on a Thursday night. I had been there several times before on a weekend, but arriving tipsy and leaving drunk I never wrote any reviews (although I should highly commend the bar staff for great cocktails) so I decided to behave like an adult, see the house band and have a beer. Having shown up early I got a seat between the bar and the band. Starting with a Tuborg Classic draft, I waited for the band to play their tunes and boy, was I in for a treat. The young keyboard player (a 19 year old prodigy) started the night off with Booker T & MG’s Green Onions, followed by the guitar player serving ZZ Top’s La Grange with a twist. Needless to say, people could barely sit still in their seats. By the time I saw the bottom of that Tuborg draft glass, people were dancing to The Doors and my instinct told me to pick up a White Russian for me and

my date, who had been talking to some EVE online game conference guests as I made notes in my head about the brilliant atmosphere. HEY, CAREFUL, MAN, THERE’S A BEVERAGE HERE! Among the previously named EVE Online conference guests I spotted a pair of Icelandic actresses, having what I can only imagine being a glass of milk (as opposed to heavy cream and vodka) considering their itsy bitsy waistlines. Also present was an Icelandic MMA fighter (the only one we have come to think about it) and a group of college students who looked like they were really enjoying the music. The atmosphere in Lebowski Bar does not ask for age, gender, if you are wearing a watch or if you like bowling at all. It only asks that you loosen up, have a beverage or two and maybe a burger but most of all that you have fun. Walking out of the front door I wondered how on earth such a wide group of people could find themselves sitting down and having such fun in the same place. But if the Dude abides, so should we.

Lebowski Bar Laugavegur 20a, 101 Reykjavík +354 552 2300 www.lebowski.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Reykjavík Art Museum brings you the highlights of Icelandic art Reykjavík Art Museum is located in three unique buildings; Hafnarhúsið, Kjarvalsstaðir and Ásmundarsafn, all situated in the heart of the city. You can easily walk from one to the other and the entrance ticket is valid to all the houses on the same day. The summer exhibitions form a fascinating profile of Icelandic art from the beginning of the 20th century to the present day, giving viewers an interesting insight into country, culture and history.

HAFNARHÚSIÐ This former warehouse is located in the city center and focuses on contemporary art today. The museum offers a permanent exhibition of the art of Erró, Iceland’s most renowned Pop artist and this summer shows a collection of recent works that present a new period in the artist´s career. The exhibition, entitled The world today, consists of works created using diverse methods – oils, watercolors, collages and enamels – that clearly show the artist´s love for life and the playful creativity of his visual world.

Your compound view - selection from the collection from 1970-2010 shows works from many of the most interesting artists in the Icelandic art scene over the last thirty years, among them Ólafur Elíasson, Ragnar Kjartansson and Gabríela Friðriksdóttir. The exhibition varies in both medium and concept and reflects, inspite of it´s diversity, how generations of artist influence one another.

Hafnarhús

Kjarvalsstaðir

Ásmundarsafn

Tryggvagata 17, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 590 1200 www.listasafnreykjavikur.is

Flókagata 24, 105 Reykjavík Tel: +354 517 1290 www.listasafnreykjavikur.is

Sigtún, 105 Reykjavík Tel: +354 553 2155 www.listasafnreykjavikur.is

Open daily from 10 - 17 and from 10 - 20 on Thursdays. Guided tours every Thursday at 6 p.m. June- August.

Open daily from from 10 - 17. Guided tours every Friday at 1 p.m. June- August.

Open daily from from 10 - 17.

48 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

KJARVALSSTAÐIR Here the key works of Jóhannes Kjarval, one of Iceland’s most beloved painters, are exhibited all-year round. Kjarval’s vision of Icelandic nature is incomparable, in his work land and saga become one and the otherworld of folklore and myth merges with the landscape. The summer’s exhibition, The seasons in Kjarval’s art, offers a selection of his paintings that depict the changing of the land with the seasons. Affinities and Reykjavík, Town, Structure, showcase works from various periods in Icelandic art history. In Affinities works of different artists, in some way linked or alike, are juxtaposed

together. The show doesn’t have a certain thematic approach, rather it creates a dialogue by pairing works that somehow speak together, creating a whole new experience for the viewer. Reykjavík, Town, Structure explores the transformation of Reykjavík from town to city as depicted in the works of various artists. The exhibition is decorated with ten Reykjavík poems, chosen by Reykjavík UNESCO City of Literture.

ÁSMUNDARSAFN This magical house is literally the „house“ of pioneer sculpture Ásmundur Sveinsson since it was mostly designed by the artist himself and partly served

as his studio and home. The museum is surrounded by a garden filled with the artist’s marvelous creations, works the show his love for Icelandic folklore, nature and the common people of the country. The summer exhibition works that span the whole career of the artist and clearly show how his artistic vision developed throughout his life.

FLATEY ISLAND AND THE VIKINGSUSHI ADVENTURE When crossing Breiðafjörður bay you have the option of stopping for a few hours at the charming island of Flatey, where time literally stands still. Most of Flatey´s houses are from the 19th century so it gives the impression of travelling back in time. There is a lot to see and experience in Flatey Island; unique nature, birds, the church with its stunning artwork, stillness and absence of time, the old library, historic sites and the old village. And if you get hungry, you can try some of the delicious homemade delicacies at the Hotel Flatey.

A Sea Tour to Remember With over 25 years of experience in sailing over and around Breiðafjörður bay, Sæferðir has become a household brand in Iceland. This huge fjord west of Iceland separates the Westfjords and the Snæfellsnes peninsula. It is the home of thousands of little islands with birds and wildlife beyond your wildest imagination, both on land and in the ocean. We’ll take you there!

Their ferry Baldur takes travellers and their cars from their base in the lovely town of Stykkishólmur over to Brjánslækur on the other side of the bay. In addition to Baldur they operate the VikingSushi Adventure boat tours, on a large cruise vessel, around the southern part of Breiðafjörður bay.

For a more adventurous journey, The VikingSushi Tour is about 20 km long and takes roughly 2 hours. During the tour you will experience number of stunning and exciting things such as unique basalt rockformations, an endless number of small islands, colourful bird life and the highlight of the tour, the VikingSushi; fresh scallops & sea urchin roe straight out of the ocean.

Sea Tours Smiðjustígur 3, 340 Stykkishólmi Tel: +354 433 2254 www.seatours.is Reykjavik Excursions | 49

A Wrist-Work of Art What springs to mind when you think of watchmakers? Do the words Swiss, old and tradition leap up there by any chance? I thought so. Now, think again because there is a new boy in town and he‘s proven that timeless innovation, superior craftsmanship and exquisite precision can be achieved even if your heritage does not include chocolate and the Alps. When Sigurður Gilbertsson, in association with his friends Grímkell Sigurþórsson and Júlíus Heiðarsson, approached his father Gilbert Ó. Guðjónsson, a watchmaker of 40 years, with the idea of them designing and producing their own collection, his father laughed. Today JS Watch co. has five collections and sells around 350 watches per year. When Gilbertsson‘s father stopped laughing back in 2005 and this beautiful father and son venture became a reality they created their own brand and made 100 watches to begin with, to test the waters so to speak. Within 6 months they were completely sold out. This was back in the day when the Icelandic financial bubble was growing at the speed of light and almost every man, woman and child in the country was splashing money around like there was no tomorrow. Soon after the launch of their first collection, JS Watch made preparations for a follow up line but then the financial environment

50 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

started to change. The Icelandic krona, a local currency used in Iceland since the beginning of time, started weakening and in a short period of time it became three times more expensive to import the foreign-made components, the country’s currency became worthless and for a small manufacturer operating in the world market this was a huge problem. But there are blessings in everything and when the Icelandic economy crashed, along came the tourists. People from all over the world flocked to this curious volcanic island in the North because it had for the first time become affordable for ordinary people to visit. More importantly for JS Watch co; it became affordable for your average tourist to buy high quality design watches. They had an unrivalled high quality product at unbeatable prices for foreign visitors. “People had been desperate to come to Iceland but it was just too expensive,” explains Gilbertsson. “Once they discovered their money would go a lot further the

country became full of tourists. It has been great for business and not just in terms of sales. We not only take pride in our watches, but also our customer care. It’s very important for us that the people who buy our timepieces know the level of perfection we try and achieve. Although we aim to get that message across on our international sales, nothing can beat talking to someone face to face and welcoming them into our workshop.” Speaking of their workshop, among the many happy watch owners on their list of clientele are men such as Quentin Tarantino, Viggo Mortensen and the Dalai Lama, not to mention the entire Icelandic Coastguard. JS Watch co. is the Coastguard’s official supplier of watches and the offshore emergency service exclusively uses the Sif North Atlantic Rescue Timer, which says it all regarding the brand’s reputation for durability and accuracy. So dropping in on Laugavegur 62 for a warm welcome and a tour of the exquisite watch collections of JS Watch co should without question be part of your Reykjavík tour, it’s the chance of a lifetime to get the watch of a lifetime.

JS Watch co. Laugavegur 62, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 551 4100 www.jswatch.com Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

READY FOR ICELANDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S LUNAR LANDSCAPES

Specifications: Swiss Movement, Solid 316L Stainless Steel Watch Case, 660Feet / 200 Meters Water Resistant, Screw Down Crown, Anti RefIective, Scratch Resistant Sapphire Crystal, Luminous Hands and Numbers. Available in ARC-TIC Iceland flagship store at Laugavegur 18b 101 Reykjavik.

www.arc-tic.com - www.facebook.com/ArcticIceland - info@arc-tic.com

Tapas Done the Icelandic Way Walking along the the old fisherman‘s huts by Geirsgata has become very different to what it used to be a few years back. The activity in these old houses with the weird green colour has shifted from serving the small boat fishermen of Reykjavik to housing various restaurants, a gallery and a goldsmith to name a few. Taking a walk there on a calm evening has really become something else.

One of the restaurants you will find in this lovely area is The Icelandic Tapas House. Upon walking in there on a brisk Thursday evening in April, the first thing I noticed was the distinctive beat of the Spanish dance Flamenco and guitar music. The dance was being performed live on the upper floor. I was told they were experimenting with this event and I hope they continue with it, oh what fun! Not in any way less exciting was the menu. Gorgeous Tapas dishes to be selected individually or mixed by the house.

We went for the Cuban mix and ordered a pitcher of Sangria to go with it. I’m not sure if it was the Sangria talking, but eating in this restaurant made me feel happy inside. There is simply something heart-warming for an Icelander to be sitting in a renovated fisherman’s hut on a pier, looking out at the Atlantic Ocean and eating dish after dish of Spanish food that is so good it makes you want to take the chef home with you. But maybe it isn’t a wonder because the link to Spain is stronger here than one might imagine. The Icelandic Tapas House is located in a former fisherman’s hut built in 1921. In the old days, the house was operated as a Salt Cod establishment and almost all of the production was exported to Spain. So there is indeed a connection. Salt Cod therefore has an honorary seat on the menu but according to the Tapas tradition, the menu is filled to the brim with versatile ingredients and cooking methods from all over the world. Eating Tapas is supposed to be loud, colourful, diverse and fun. And here in the old hut in Geirsgata, it sure is.

Icelandic Tapas House Aegisgardur 2, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 512 8181 www.tapashusid.is

An Adventure Under a Bridge Walking along the the old fisherman‘s huts by Geirsgata has become very different to what it used to be a few years back. The activity in these old houses with the weird green colour has shifted from serving the small boat fishermen of Reykjavik to housing various restaurants, a gallery and a goldsmith to name a few. Taking a walk there on a calm evening has really become something else. One of the restaurants you will find in this lovely area is The Icelandic Tapas House. Upon walking in there on a brisk Thursday evening in April, the first thing I noticed was the distinctive beat of the Spanish dance Flamenco and guitar music. The dance was being performed live on the upper floor. I was told they were experimenting with this event and I hope they continue with it, oh what fun! Not in any way less exciting was the menu. Gorgeous Tapas dishes to be selected individually or mixed by the house. We went for the Cuban mix and ordered a pitcher of Sangria to go with it. I’m not sure if it was the 52 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Sangria talking, but eating in this restaurant made me feel happy inside. There is simply something heart-warming for an Icelander to be sitting in a renovated fisherman’s hut on a pier, looking out at the Atlantic Ocean and eating dish after dish of Spanish food that is so good it makes you want to take the chef home with you. But maybe it isn’t a wonder because the link to Spain is stronger here than one might imagine. The Icelandic Tapas House is located in a former fisherman’s hut built in 1921. In the old days, the house was operated as a Salt Cod establishment and almost all of the production was exported to

Spain. So there is indeed a connection. Salt Cod therefore has an honorary seat on the menu but according to the Tapas tradition, the menu is filled to the brim with versatile ingredients and cooking methods from all over the world. Eating Tapas is supposed to be loud, colourful, diverse and fun. And here in the old hut in Geirsgata, it sure is.

The Fish Company Vesturgata 2a, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 552 5300 www.fiskfelagid.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

h Go Home wit a story worth sharing!

Open everyday from 8am-10pm

Rafting

Ice Climbing Snorkeling

Diving

Glacier Hike Canoeing

Hiking

Kayaking

Climbing

Super-Jeep Caving

Horse Riding Sightseeing Snowmobile Whale Watch ATV

Cycling

Surfing

Boat Ride

Hot Spring

Incentive

Skiing

Mountain Hut Camping

Swimming

Multi Trips

www.adventures.is | info@adventures.is | +354-562-7000 | Downtown ReykjavĂk Sales Office at Laugavegur 11

The Dream Boat 15 years ago, Rannveig Grétarsdóttir started with a dream, and a boat. Today her company, Elding, is one of the largest whale watching companies in Iceland, with a fleet of 6 vessels and a myriad of tours, and Rannveig herself was recently awarded “business woman of the year.”

54 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Back around the turn of the 21st century, a small family in a small town in Iceland had a dream. Rannveig Grétarsdóttir and the men in her life – her husband, her brother and her father Grétar – all had a keen interest in nature and the preservation of the many whales who make their life in the oceans around Iceland. As a way of combining these passions, they tentatively started a seasonal whale-watching business in their small home town of Sandgerði in the year 2000, becoming one of the first such firms in Iceland. They had some success that first year but wound up moving the bulk of their operations to Hafnarfjörður the following year and eventually to Reykjavík in 2002, becoming the original whale-watching

company in the city. This brought them closer to the whale habitats of Faxaflói bay as well as closer to the densest centre of tourism, in downtown Reykjavík. Since then “much water has run to the sea” as we say in Iceland, by 2003 the operation had grown enough for Rannveig to quit her “day job” to work on the business full time. The number of whale-watchers has grown from 2,500 people on tours by a handful of parttime staff in the first year, to 74 thousand travellers guided by 55 employees last year, and is still growing. The boats have multiplied from one to six, the company has opened restaurant MAR on the seafront and added a number of other operations to their repertoire, including the Viðey Ferry and puffin-watching tours during puffin season. Rannveig was awarded the title “Business woman of the Year” in 2012 by the Association of Business Women in Iceland. Her story has involved diving into the deep end with her fingers crossed and working like a maniac to keep her head above water. But through it all Rannveig and her family have kept alive their love of the environment and their dream of preserving the quality of life and dignity of the marine animals they work with.

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

ENVIRONMENTAL CONSCIOUSNESS Elding has since 2007 collaborated with the University of Iceland to study the lives of whales, and they have one of the most progressive environmental policies of all the whalewatching companies. Their focus is on education and connection for their travellers and you can really feel their love for - and fascination with - the whales in everything they do. They take great care not to disturb the whales and they fight for their rights in the heated whaling debate. They work with IceWhale, the IWC and the worldwide organization Planet Whale which emphasizes conservation, research, the value of whale-watching as a learning experience, the safety of the animals as well as of the traveller, and minimising the environmental impact of the tours. Elding is also the first and only environmentally certified whalewatching tour operator in the country.

THE WHALES It is an astounding privilege to have such a dense whale population centre so close to the capital city: Faxaflói Bay is home to numerous species of whales, dolphins and porpoise including Minke Whale, Humpback, Harbour Porpoise and White Beaked Dolphin. THE TOURS Elding operates Whale-watching Tours five to six times a day in the summertime and one to three times daily in winter. During the summer season, they have over a 90% success rate in spotting whales, though of course it is a wildlife watching experience and results can’t be guaranteed, especially when care is being taken not to disturb these gentle giants excessively. That being said, the captains have access to state-of-the-art technology and have great experience and skill in finding the whales.

Each tour takes only 2.5-3.5 hours depending on weather and conditions and how well the whales are hiding on a given day. All the whale-watching boats are equipped with large scenic windows as well as viewing decks, cafés and free wi-fi, and they provide their patrons with warm thermal suits for their comfort. In addition to the whale-watching, Elding also offers an hour-long Puffinwatching Tour three times a day during the puffin nesting season, roughly from June until September. These iconic “clowns of the air” spend most of their time out at sea but come to Iceland by their millions to lay eggs and raise their young over the summer months. Elding also operates a Sea-Angling Tour where you can catch your own fish in Faxaflói Bay and, if you wish, have it prepared by a gourmet chef at MAR in the evening. Elding operates the Ferry to Viðey Island, where you can see the 18th century residence and church, experience the art piece Milestones by Richard Serra, or see Yoko Ono’s Imagine Peace Tower from about October to December. Finally in the winter months, they operate Northern Lights Boat Tours, where travellers sail out after dark and stay out past midnight looking for that legendary green-and-red glow. Look for their logo on the waterfront of the old harbour in Reykjavík or book a tour through one of the many booking offices in the city centre!

Elding Whale Watching Ægisgarður 7, 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 555 3565 www.elding.is We’ll take you there!

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The

Taste of Iceland If you’re coming to Iceland, you will be blown away by the vibrant and unique food culture. Between the world-class restaurants with pristine ingredients and master chefs, the quaint little local flavours and the unique and unusual traditional cuisine, there is no shortage of flavourful experiences for both the adventurous explorer and the demanding connoisseur.

MODERN ICELANDIC CUISINE Modern day Iceland offers every kind of food you can imagine, and many that you probably can’t. With world-class chefs working with pristine ingredients, Icelandic Restaurants are sure to be a thrill. Most restaurants will offer some traditional Icelandic dishes, such as smoked lamb, or some twist on tradition, such as a reindeer burger.

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Reykjavik offers any kind of international food you can imagine, sushi, thai, mexican, you name it. It offers steak houses and seafood restaurants. You can go from very high end to fast food in one block. Because icelandic farms are relatively traditional and the icelandic nature is very pure and unspoiled, the ingredients of the food will be absolute first rate. We particularly recommend you try the lamb, which is in a league of its own. LOCAL FLAVOUR Icelanders don’t like to walk the beaten path. They do what they want and they don’t really care what anyone thinks. This means that different local customs will spring up in different places that may seem a bit weird to an unaccustomed onlooker. Here are some choice examples, but be on the lookout for more, they are different all over. THE ICELANDIC HOT DOG – AN UNUSUAL INSTITUTION You don’t get more authentically Icelandic than the hot dog. Whereas some of the more traditional food are only really eaten during the Þorri festival, Icelanders actually eat hot dogs all the time.

The Icelandic hot dog is unique in that it contains lamb in addition to the international pork and beef, and it is supposed to be eaten “með öllu” (with everything): raw chopped onions, roasted onions, ketchup, mustard and remoulade. If you order one “with everything” up north, it will also include “cocktail sauce,” a mixture of ketchup and mayo. ICE (CREAM) LAND Icelanders, somewhat appropriately, love ice cream. They love it at any time, in fact, you can sometimes see a line at the ice cream parlour in a snowstorm. There is a long-standing debate in Reykjavík of which is better, Ísbúð Vesturbæjar or the one in Skeifan. Unless of course you’re from the north, and the obvious winner is Brynjuís. Because, well, obviously. TRADITIONAL ICELANDIC FOOD Finally, don’t miss out on the traditional Icelandic food! These dishes, prepared the same way they have for centuries, are steeped in history and... other things. There are some flavours everyone can enjoy such as the smoked lamb, flat bread, and liverwurst and some more unusual delicacies such as blood pudding and dried fish. At the far end of the spectrum you find curiosities of acquired taste such as fermented shark, singed sheep’s head and pickled ram’s testicles. These are otherwise known as “things you only eat so you can tell your friends at home you did it”. With a shot of Brennivin, an Icelandic Schnapps lovingly nicknamed “Black Death”, you can wash down your meal, along with washing away any memory you might have had of the whole affair.

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

A perfect base to explore the Icelandic highlands Hotel Highland is a luxury hotel situated at the edge of Iceland’s most impressive and active volcanic area, northeast of famous volcano Mt. Hekla. Hotel Highland is the only quality hotel in the highlands. The area is teeming with great sites for adventure and Hotel Highland

is the perfect base for visiting as many of them as time allows. The location is perfect for trying out all the activities the region has to offer. Hotel Highland is also a great destination for viewing the Northern Lights.

The “last outpost” before entering the highlands Hrauneyjar Guesthouse is situated at the edge of Iceland’s most impressive and and active volcanic area. It is close to many of the most beautiful and popular tourist attractions in the highlands. The vastness of the highlands and

We’ll take you there!

the lack of human impact on the surrounding area makes it truly one of the last places in Europe where serene solitude, a sense of freedom and natural beauty combine in a breathtakingly powerful experience.

Reykjavik Excursions | 57

I wish they could go on forever Having been born and raised in Iceland, I have seen my fair share of Northern Lights. That does not change the fact that when they come out, I wish they would go on forever. They hypnotise you and put a spell on you. They make you want more and more; you can never get enough. So I understand why people travel from all over the world to see the northern lights. They are indescribable, and there is nothing like them. THE PHENOMENA An aurora is a natural light display in the sky, particularly in the high latitude regions, caused by the collision of energetic charged particles with atoms in the high altitude atmosphere. When I was a child and asked what they were made of, the response I received from my parents was electricity in the sky. That kept me quiet for a while, but there is more to it, as I discovered when I got older. The charged particles originate in the magnetosphere and solar wind and, on Earth, are directed by the Earth’s magnetic field into the atmosphere. Most aurorae occur in a band known as the auroral zone, which is typically 3° to 6° in latitudinal

extent and at all local times or longitudes. The auroral zone is typically 10° to 20° from the magnetic pole defined by the axis of the Earth’s magnetic dipole. During a geomagnetic storm, the auroral zone expands to lower latitudes. In northern latitudes, the effect of this is known as the Aurora Borealis, or the northern lights as we like to call them. Aurora Borealis is named after the Roman goddess of dawn, Aurora, and the Greek name for the north wind, Boreas. The northern lights have had a number of names throughout history. The Cree Indians call this phenomenon The Dance of the Spirits and in medieval Europe, the auroras were

commonly believed to be a sign from God. When I was a kid, I thought so too. Its southern counterpart, the Aurora Australis (or the southern lights), has features that are almost identical to the Aurora Borealis and changes simultaneously with changes in the northern auroral zone. It is visible from high southern latitudes in Antarctica, South America, New Zealand, and Australia. Aurorae also occur on other planets and similar to the Earth’s aurora; they are visible close to the planet’s magnetic poles. I would love to see the southern ones at some point in my life, but to see aurorae on other planets will probably have to wait.

REYKJAVIK EXCURSIONS NORTHERN LIGHTS TOURS For those of you who, like me, want to make do with the Earth for now, the northern lights can be elusive and hard to find. As such, proper care needs to be taken to ensure the highest likelihood of a sighting. There are several things you can do to greatly improve those odds, actually, so pay close attention.

Now it’s one thing to know what to avoid and what to seek, but a whole other thing actually doing it. As it turns out, Reykjavik Excursions has an extensive experience in light-guiding, knowing exactly where and when to look for the ever impressive northern lights. These guys will ensure your sighting chances are maximized, and have in fact organized different tours, that should cater to everyone’s needs and wants.

Northern Lights have three mortal enemies – all of whom greatly affect the extent to which one can see them. Avoid those – and you should be relatively well off. Firstly we shall name the dreaded cloud cover. It’s quite difficult to see the lights through a thick carpet of clouds, so – a clear sky is preferable. Do keep in mind though, that a local expert would be helpful there, as while you might see thick clouds right above you, Iceland is a…volatile…country when it comes to weather conditions, so don’t give up hope beforehand!

NORTHERN LIGHTS TOUR This is the classic one, available daily during the Aurora Season, the Northern Lights Tour is hugely popular, tried and tested. During the 3-4 hours, an aurora-expert takes you to the best spots for a maximum chance of seeing the lights, altering the route based on forecast and conditions. On the off-chance that no lights are seen, you’ll be welcomed to join the tour again, free of charge.

The second enemy is city lights. While you might occasionally see the lights within city limits, I can assure you, they’d be much brighter and much more impressive without those lights. So going out of town is almost essential to viewing! The last mortal enemy of the northern lights is one that’s easily avoidable most of the time; daylight. A general rule in the world is that during night time, the daylight goes away. Alas, however, that’s not the case in summertime Iceland! As a result, the so-called “Aurora Season” is generally recognized as being from September to Mid-April. This is the season you’ll want to aim for when going aurora hunting.

GLACIER AND MONSTER TRUCK ADVENTURE On this tour, Reykavik Excursions visit Langjökull, Iceland’s second largest glacier. There they meet up with a specially modified 8x8 Monster Truck that will bring you to one of the most unique places you will ever find, the Langjökull glacier area. There you will learn about the Northern Lights, the glacier itself and the local nature along with some local stories. On the glacier, you will experience driving through complete and utter darkness, take a short walk and experience the glacial nature. Upon arrival at the glacier hut, you will enjoy some light refreshments. To experience Langjökull glacier at night is truly remarkable. It is the perfect way to experience the spectacular Icelandic nature, the fresh glacial air and

darkness only to be found on such remote locations. WARM BATHS & COOL LIGHTS! This is an incredibly cosy tour, offering the perfect mixture of relaxation and northern lights hunting. We start off at the Laugarvatn Fontana open air geothermal baths and spa, for a complete rejuvenation of body and soul. There you’ll enjoy a local style buffet to ensure no one is hungry and the batteries are charged for the light show of a lifetime, as the Reykjavik Excursions guides take you on a tour of the area, before dropping you off at your hotel. Keep in mind that the lights are, as mentioned, quite elusive, so sightings cannot be guaranteed. Additionally, make sure to bring warm clothes, a swimsuit and a towel for the best experience!

The History of Iceland in 10 Short Steps

16-18 MILLION YEARS AGO: THE FORMATION OF ICELAND Iceland lies on the intersection of the American and Eurasian tectonic plates. When they started drifting apart, around 16 million years ago, it caused a major volcanic eruption, resulting in the creation of Iceland! Even today, the island still sits on a volcanic hotspot, creatively named, “The Iceland Plume” – resulting in a multitude of earthquakes every year and volcanic eruptions every few years as well. 871 AD: THE SETTLEMENT OF ICELAND A Norwegian named Ingólfur Arnarsson killed a man and was exiled from his home country. He sailed to a legendary land in the west with two ships. People from the Nordics engaged in a massive land grab in this uninhabited country, taking with them Irish slaves, resulting in a Norse-Celtic mix of genes in Iceland. Thanks to the almost obsessive fixation of early Icelanders with genealogy, most modern Icelanders can still trace their family lines back to this time. As a matter of fact, Icelanders can look up their entire family history on a single website, and they even have an app called Íslendingabók that makes sure they don’t date their (close) relatives. 930 AD: PARLIAMENT ESTABLISHED Being a land of renegades and runaways with no king, some system of government had to be instituted. The people of Iceland went ahead and created Althing, the oldest democratic parliament that still exists today. In each area there was a chieftain (Goði), a political and religious leader. Every summer, all the chieftains would meet at Parliament Fields (Þingvellir) to discuss laws and settle disputes. Every year, the law speaker, standing on top of the Law Rock, would say a third of the law, completely from memory. This way, the whole law was heard every three years.

Iceland is a proud nation with a rich history. From the world’s oldest democratic parliament, to an economic crash of unprecedented size, Icelanders have a lot to boast about, and they‘re usually not shy to do so. Here we present, for the first time ever, the complete, not-reallyunabridged History of Iceland, in just 10 short items. This is your unique chance to read up on major events in the history of Iceland, without having to sift through thousands of pages. Now...Let‘s start at the very beginning.

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The law was later written down in the book Grágás, which still exists today. Contained therein are practical laws, such as the penalty for your pet polar bear killing someone. The parliament functions to this day, uninterrupted aside from a period of 45 years from 1800 to 1845. 1000 AD: CONVERSION TO CHRISTIANITY, DISCOVERY OF AMERICA Until the tenth century, the predominant religion in Iceland was “Ásatrú”, the worship of the Norse gods, Óðinn, Þór and the like. In the 980s Christian missionaries started spreading the faith, leading to violent confrontations. The two factions asked

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði Þorkelsson to mediate. He lay under a bear hide for a day and a night eventually coming to the conclusion that Iceland should be a Christian country. However worshipping the old gods was allowed as long as nobody found out! Iceland remained Roman Catholic until 1540, when it converted to Lutheran Protestantism. The Catholic bishops Jón Arason and Ögmundur Pálsson violently opposed the reformation. That opposition came to an abrupt end with the beheading of Jón Arason in 1550. The year 1000 is also when Leif “The Lucky” Ericson discovered America, or “Wine-land” as he called it. He was planning on sailing to Greenland, but was blown off course to the west, where he saw land. He later sailed there and attempted to settle, but gave it up after conflicts with the locals. These and other stories are written down in the sagas of the Icelanders, an extensive body of 13th century writings. 1262 AD: ICELAND SUBMITS TO NORWAY In the years leading up to 1262, the Icelandic chieftains gradually became more and more powerful, until the whole country was in a state of constant civil war between 7 powerful clans. In order to end to the war, the leaders submitted peacefully to Haakon

IV, king of Norway. The story is preserved in saga of the Sturlungs, written down as the events were taking place or shortly after. Later, in the 14th century, the Kingdoms of Norway, Denmark and Sweden became one kingdom, and when they split up again Iceland somehow wound up under Danish rule. Even today Icelanders are confused and even a little sore about the whole situation. 1602: MONOPOLY (NOT THE FUN KIND) In the 1500s, English and German fishermen and traders set up posts in Iceland and traded with the Icelanders. Seeing a mutually beneficial situation which brought prosperity to his subjects, Christian IV King of Denmark naturally decided he wasn’t having it. He granted exclusive rights to trade in Iceland to certain merchants. It is hard to overstate how devastating this decision was. Danish merchants could pay as little as they wanted for Icelandic goods, and charge what they wanted for imports. It led to the nation of Iceland wallowing in abject poverty, basically until the monopoly was abolished in 1786. THE 1750S: THE ENLIGHTENMENT AND THE BIRTH OF REYKJAVÍK Until the middle of the 1750s, Reykjavík was just a single farm, and Iceland had no towns or villages of any kind. Sheriff Skúli Magnússon was a man of the enlightenment. He picked Reykjavík to become the center of modernization, and pioneered the building of wool workshop buildings, one of which still stands, on Aðalstræti 10. This marked the beginning of Iceland’s rise out of the dark ages. 1845 AD: THE RE-ESTABLISHMENT OF THE PARLIAMENT AND THE INDEPENDENCE MOVEMENT The enlightenment came to Iceland, and with it, nationalism. Chief among the Icelandic independence campaigners was Jón Sigurðsson, whose birthday, June

We’ll take you there!

17th, was later chosen as the Icelandic Independence day. The movement led to the re-establishment of the Icelandic parliament as an advisory body to the king in 1845. This was followed by home rule in 1905, sovereignty in 1918 and independence in 1944, when Denmark was too busy being invaded by Germany to do much about it. 20TH CENTURY: THE WORLD WARS AND MODERNIZATION Industry and urbanization was growing, but Iceland had quite a lot of catching up to do. 1900-1910 saw such novelties as electricity, the first car and the first trawler, which marked the beginning of the stillimportant fishing industry. In the world wars, selling products to the allies and servicing the American occupying force brought an economic boom and cultural influence, such as TV and jazz. This catapulted Iceland into the 20th century and still today the Icelandic culture has an incredible fascination for new and foreign things, technology and culture. 21ST CENTURY: CRASH AND MIRACULOUS RECOVERY Since the 1950s, Iceland’s economy was characterized by rather high inflation. In the late 1990s, the commercial banking system was privatized and the law was changed to ease restrictions on trade. Following an incredible growth in everything financial, the bubble finally burst in a spectacular manner, in October 2008. The currency of Iceland, the Króna, fell by 50% overnight. People lost their jobs, their houses, and their livelihood and finally to top it all, McDonalds left the country. Since then, Iceland has caught the attention of the international community because of how quickly the economy has recovered. Industry is operational and unemployment is under control, but wages and prices are still quite low, which means it’s a good time to visit for people with foreign money.

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Tax & Duty Free

Experience Iceland Icelandic memories available at Tax and Duty free prices.

Ă?SLENSKA/SIA.IS/FLE 69456 06/14

KEF Airport is one of the few airports in the world that is both tax and duty free so you can save up to 50% off city prices.

Mastering the Simplicity of Good Bistro A bistro-style restaurant under Scandinavian influences? This I have got to try. So, I did. When we arrived it was after eight o’clock on a Wednesday night. The place was packed with smiling faces and suddenly it didn’t feel like a Wednesday anymore. Everybody there seemed inanely determined not to let anything get in the way of them and their constitutional right to relax, chat, eat good food and have a drop of wine. At first I thought to myself that the interior of the place must call for this sort of relaxed attitude. At Snaps Bistro you will not find glass and steel unless in the form of cutlery. The key words here are more along the lines of flowers and wooden panels with the addition of a gazebo (yes, really). The food was first class, his steak was perfectly

cooked, my chicken was zesty yet tender and the wine was lovely. All around us were people enjoying the simplicities of a good Bistro menu. But even though all the ingredients were first class and the wine list exemplary, that alone does not create a desired atmosphere. It is rather simple, when you think about it. There is such a thing as “that extra special something”, a form of ambiance that has nothing to do with the food or the drinks or the waiters (which were great by the way). For some reason,

COFFEE, JUICE AND MUCH MORE!

YOU'LL FIND US AT KRINGLAN AND SMÁRALIND SHOPPING CENTRES

this place has it. We had an absolutely lovely evening, without really being able to put our finger on what made it so. It is my solemn belief that sometimes restaurants try too hard. Snaps Bistro does not try. It just is.

Snaps Óðinstorg, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 511 6677 www.snaps.is

What’s On in Iceland All the information on everything that’s happening in Iceland So you‘ve arrived in Iceland, your warm clothes in your bag, high hopes and a lot of excitement. Great! But now what? There are about a million incredibly cool things to do in Iceland, so it can definitely be a daunting task to organize a stay here. Luckily – you‘ve got a hawk in a corner. A HAWK IN A CORNER REALLY DOESN‘T MAKE SENSE TO ME.

SO...WHAT ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT AGAIN?

Well – it would make sense, if you‘d have read the FAQs on WhatsOn.is. They‘re pretty awesome actually, though the author allegedly goes overboard at times in his borderline desperate attempts at humour. So having a hawk in one’s corner is a good thing. It‘s basically an ally, often times an unexpected ally, but one you can rely on. Your hawk will come to your aid when you most need it. Just like the guys and girls at What‘s On in Reykjavik do!

What‘s On in Reykjavik. It‘s three different things but still basically the same. You see, What‘s On in Reykjavik is a magazine that‘s published every month all year around. It‘s been published for 30 straight years already and is one of the most established tourist publications in Iceland. There you‘ll find a selection of interesting articles, a comprehensive event calendar, covering everything that’s happening in and around Reykjavik, with a special emphasis on the spectacular museums

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of Reykjavik and the capital area, as well as plenty of other relevant and fun material such as restaurant, shopping and nightlife recommendation and a map of downtown Reykjavik. All in all, it‘s a cool magazine that you can pick up at all the hotels and the major places usually frequented by visitors to Iceland. Definitely something you‘ll want to check out if you‘re looking for something to do in Reykjavik. What’s On in Reykjavik also has a tourist information and booking office downtown, on Laugavegur 4, named, very creatively, “What’s On”. There they continue the work of the magazine by physically informing you about the city and its events, as well as giving you neutral advice on what tours and activities you might want to undertake while you’re here, and helping you book them. Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

It can be really tough to know what exactly you should do with your holiday and how to make the most of the days that you’re here. You might be asking yourself: Where should I go? What should I do there? And how should I dress?!?! What’s the very coolest tour to go on? What’s weather dependent and what do I need to book in advance? What’s the meaning of life? But the staff of What’s On are locals with a good overview over everything to do, and they’ll take what you’re into doing (say shark wrestling) and advise you on the best way to do that thing (go on a scuba tour and hope for the best)...No promises on that “meaning of life” thing though. And even if there isn’t a specific tour for what you’re into, there’s always the chance that they know a guy who knows a guy. Basically they get you all sorted out – and it’s a free service! They also have a constantly-updated event calendar on the wall where the staff pin whatever hip musical, theatrical, artistic or other cool events might be coming up in the following week, a whole ton of free literature about Iceland and brochures about different tours, and out in the courtyard there’s a big ol’ map of Iceland and the bus routes and you really should just check it out. THE GIST OF IT

Finally there is the website, whatson. is. It‘s basically the website for the magazine – but the guys running the show decided to expand on it a little bit and taking advantage of the wonder that is the internet. You will of course find the majority of the content from the magazine, all the best articles

and such, but on top of that they‘ve added a very extensive FAQ section, which (hopefully) should answer all the questions you might have about Iceland and Icelanders, an event calendar, and the option to book some hand-picked tours and activities in Iceland, operated by highly experienced collaborators of What‘s On. That‘s something you might really want to consider if you‘re looking for some activities or tours in Iceland, because these guys and gals know what they‘re talking about, and if they don‘t, they definitely know the right dude you

should be talking to! Lastly – if there‘s any question you might have that‘s not answered on the site, or anything you might need help with while staying in Iceland, they’re super helpful and will do their best to help you out if you contact them (whatson@whatson.is) You can write them just to test them, or tell them you read this article. They‘ll appreciate it. Unless you‘re annoying – in which case they‘ll most likely be polite, nice and helpful, but curse us instead. We really don‘t mind.

USE WHATSON.IS TO BOOK YOUR TOURS AND ACTIVITES IN ICELAND NOW, OR FOR FINDING EVENTS, INFORMATION AND EVERYTHING ELSE ABOUT ICELAND!

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What to Expect in an Icelandic Swimming Pool

Every country has traditions when it comes to leisure. In our part of the world said traditions tend to evolve around keeping warm. Finland has saunas, Russia has vodka, Iceland has swimming pools. THE HOT TUBS It all started with the hot tubs. They have literally been part of Iceland since the settlement. The most famous one is Snorri Sturluson‘s pool, Snorralaug in Reykholt, who is presumed to have lived from 1178 – 1241. His pool is one of four ancient pools in Iceland still in use. Today there are around 12.000 summer houses in Iceland, I will tread carefully and say that at least 11.000 of them have a hot tub. There is a hot tub outside half the houses in my neighbourhood and most of the hotels in Reykjavík have a spa with a hot tub so you really have to make an effort if you plan to avoid them. The definition of “an Icelandic swimming pool” might sound something like this: “A man made, usually rectangular, hole in the ground, in most cases concrete, filled with 25-28°C warm, chlorinated water, accompanied by 1-5 hot tubs with water temperatures ranging from 38-45°C”. You’re welcome to try to find a swimming pool without a hot tub in Iceland. If you do, let us know. THE CHATTER It goes without saying that swimming and unwinding in warm geothermal water on a regular basis is good for both body and soul. What is even more wonderful regarding these blessed pools of ours is their role as 68 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

social centres. All over the country people show up every day at the same time, hang their clothes on the same hook (and God help you if you‘ve ignorantly occupied one of these sacred clothes-storing-devices) and have their daily hot tub chat with the same co-swimmers. The earliest of the bunch are sometimes called “the doorknobs”, because they tend to be already clasping the knob when the swimming pool staff show up for work, still yawning and stretching. After that we have “the 8 o’clockers” and “the 9 o’clockers”, but those who routinely show up after that tend to be the anti-social ones, people who like their routine, love their daily swim and hate having to chat in the process. In the afternoon and evening the chatter begins again but the crowd is different, parents having quality time with their kids, people relaxing after work or workout and dating. Yes, dating. Going for a nice hot tub in the evening is a popular second date in Iceland, I kid you not. THE FACILITIES You will find more outdoor than indoor pools in Iceland. The reason is simple; the outdoor ones are less expensive. Which is fine, the fresh air is good for you. And there is nothing like having a swim and a hot tub during a blizzard, please do if you possibly can. What we have in many places, to add

to the goose bumps, are outdoor dressing rooms. Drying after a swim and a hot tub on a winter evening in -5°C is one of the most refreshing experiences you will encounter. And don’t be scared of the cold, outdoor dressing rooms in Icelandic swimming pools are (usually) equipped with heat lamps to keep you warm. THE EXPOSURE One thing you must realise before entering an Icelandic swimming pool: You will see others of the same sex naked and others of the same sex will see you naked. There are rarely rooms or cubicles for you to undress in and even if there are, you will still have to take your bathing costume off while showering. Why? Because we like our pools and hot tubs clean and smudge free. It’s nothing personal and trust me, for every man, woman and child in Iceland this is as uneventful as having breakfast in the morning. You can find the opening hours of most swimming pools in Iceland on www. sundlaugar.is The norm on work days is that they open 7ish in the morning and close some time after dinner but as with any norm, there are exceptions. If you don’t have a swimsuit you can usually rent one so there is no excuse, you have to try it.

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

*Admission may 2014. Price is subject to change

Reykjavik's Thermal Pools

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0LiTsSk. 60 ADU k. 130DiRsEN CHIL

Th er m al sw i m m in g po ol s

Hot t ubs and jacuzzi

Sa un as , steambaths an d sh ow ers

Se ve n lo ca t io ns

Fo r he al t h an d w el l-be in g

Op en ea rl y un t il la te

Thermal pools and baths aths in Reykjavik are a source urce of health health, relaxatio relaxation and pureness pureness. All of the city´s swimming pools have several hot pots with temperatures ranging from 37˚ to 42˚C (98˚–111˚F). The pools are kept at an average temperature of 29˚ C (84˚ F).

Tel: +354 411 5000 • www.spacity.is

Another One Rides the Bus I took the bus to work today. It might sound mundane but for me, it was a big step. Huge, in fact. This was the third time in my life I have used public transportation within the city limits. Travelling around the country in a bus is different and doesn‘t count. In Iceland there is, or shall I say has been, a clear distinction between the city buses and the ones transporting people between towns/ regions. The city bus is called “Strætó”. That is short for “strætisvagn” which in direct translation means “street carriage”. They are big and yellow and they‘ve been around forever. I grew up in a small village east of Reykjavík. When I was a kid it took an hour to get to the capital by car. I had an aunt in town and sometimes I rode the bus to go stay with her. It was easy. The bus always left at the same time from the same location in my hometown and drove to the same place in Reykjavík where my aunt would pick me up (I usually had to wait a while because my aunt has never been good at telling time but waiting builds character according to her so I guess it was a good thing). At one occasion I went to stay with her because I had a dentist‘s appointment. The appointment was during the day, obviously, and my aunt couldn‘t leave work so she suggested that I just go by Strætó. I was twelve and this really didn‘t sound like a big deal. Just go to a particular street corner, wait for a big yellow bus with a particular number on the front window, get on board and then get out at another particular street 70 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

corner close to the dentist‘s office. Easy breezy? One would think so but something went wrong or, to be fair, I did something wrong. I ended up alone in the back of a bus which drove to the outskirts of town where all the other buses are kept. There the bus stopped for 40 mins while the driver ate his lunch, listened to the news and took a short nap. All this he did with me in the back, him being perfectly aware of me being in the back but not saying a word and I was scared and I missed my appointment and it was awful! An occasion for me to use this means of transportation again, didn’t arise until 15 years later. By that time I was living in Reykjavík and had unreasonably, temporarily and very inconveniently lost my driving licence. After having sat at home for the first two days I started thinking that not leaving the house for a few months was probably not going work. I took a deep breath and decided to overcome the fear that had been festering since my childhood Strætó experience. I did everything right, taking the bus really isn’t rocket science but even so, I went all the way in planning the trip from my home to downtown Reykjavík. I knew which street corner to stand on, which bus to take, where to leave that bus to catch the one carrying me to my destination. And as before, I failed. I failed so miserably that I was forced to call a Taxi from a suburb I had never been to before and I wowed NEVER to try and master the mysterious ways of Strætó ever again. Since the economic crash of 2008 we have all watched the price of gas go through the roof and the cost of driving the family car along with it. At the same time there has been a big change in the image and routes of Strætó. These big yellow enemies

of mine now travel all over the country, to Selfoss, Stykkishólmur, Hólmavík, Borgarnes, Vík and Akureyri, to name a few. I watch in awe as my two teenage kids go anywhere they need to without having to bug their mum. I had been working up the courage for a few months and today I took the plunge. Preparing for this turning point in my life included an intense hour of looking at www.bus.is, having the 350 ISK ready in my hand, packing a lunch in case of … you know … and letting both my brother and my boyfriend know in advance what was about to happen for them to be on the alert in case of emergency. My heart was pounding as I sat down at the bus stop. My brother had gone over the procedure of letting the driver of the arriving bus know that I wanted to get on (we went through various stances and hand gestures, no joke) so when I saw my number drive up at an “allure d’enfer” I jumped to the curb faster than a grasshopper, there was no way I was going to screw this up. And lo and behold, the yellow monster pulled over, the door opened and I looked into the eyes of the driver, who was by the way completely unaware of the breakthrough taking place before him. I got on and the trip was absolute heaven, I looked out the window in complete relaxation, feeling so grown up and proud of myself (and admittedly texted ten of my closest friends and family informing them of what I was doing). When the vehicle stopped outside the University of Iceland, where I had indeed intended to get off, I simply could not stop smiling. The moral of the story: Strætó can take you anywhere. It’s comfy, relaxing and nice. Don’t be scared. Just do it. Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

bus.is bus.is

Travel in Iceland the smart way Get your free app and take the bus: Get your free app and take the bus:

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Get information on tickets on your phone. Find your routes, plan your journey, Get information onbus tickets your phone. plan your journey, locate the nearest stopon and track yourFind bus your on a routes, real-time map. locate the nearest bus stop and track your bus on a real-time map.

Get around Reykjavík easily and affordably Get around Reykjavík easily and affordably Day passes are available for the Reykjavík area. Day passes are available for the Reykjavík area.

ISK ISK ISK ISK

900 900 2,200 2,200

One-day pass: One-day pass: Three-day pass: Three-day pass: Where to buy: Strætó’sto ticket Where buy:offices, selected hotels and hostels in Reykjavík. The pass comes with a booklet that includes a route and tips on some cool Strætó’s ticket offices, selected hotels andmap hostels in Reykjavík. The pass places to visit with thethat bus.includes a route map and tips on some cool comes with a booklet places to visit with the bus. ind us on Facebook: facebook.com/Straeto ind us on Facebook: facebook.com/Straeto

Gildir:

Gildir til:

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Strætó Service Center Open every 07:00–22:00 Strætóday Service Center 540 2700 Open every dayTel. 07:00–22:00 Tel. 540 2700

Experience Iceland at

Keflavík International Airport Duty Free Icelandic products, food, and art We hope you’re looking forward to your stay in Iceland, or perhaps you’re on your way back home? In that case, we hope you’ve enjoyed your stay in Iceland! Regardless of which way you’re currently travelling, did you know that Keflavík International Airport (KEF) is one of only a few airports in the world that offers both Tax and Duty Free in all of its stores?

72 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Not only that, whether it’s your first point of call, or you final memory, KEF’s undeniable Icelandic atmosphere will make your travelling experience more memorable. What d’ya mean ‘Icelandic atmosphere’ in an airport you say? Well, there’s more than meets the eye in KEF’s Duty Free shopping area and Leifur Eiríksson terminal, there’s bountiful amounts of Icelandic-ness for your senses to enjoy. Whilst you’re waiting for you flight home, or wherever you’re travelling to, there are a variety of Icelandic delicacies to try out, some more adventurous than others. For example, Icelandic flatbread with smoked lamb and horseradish; Icelandic pylsur (hotdogs) with threetypes of sauces and two-types of onions;

Skyr, the famous dairy-based yoghurt; putrescent shark; and boiled sheep’s head. Of course everyone loves to shop, despite what some people say. The KEF Duty Free area sells the latest in electronic products and all such things. But more importantly, KEF specialises in selling and promoting Icelandic-made products and one-of-a-kind items as unique as Iceland itself. Available in the Duty Free area you can find everything from novelty Iceland underwear to high-end Icelandic-design jewellery and crafts. You can also pick up cosmetics made from the purest Icelandic-glacial water, silica, and algae.

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Feeling thirsty? KEF’s Duty Free area gives you the opportunity to purchase Icelandic soft-drinks, kókómjólk, and alcoholic beverages, including Brennivín, an unsweetened schnapps known as “Black Death”. Fancy a snack? You can also purchase Icelandic sweets, chocolate and baked goods for your journey home. If there’s one thing Icelanders know how to design better than anyone else in the world it’s outdoor clothing, as the weather in Iceland can sometimes be savage. Icelanders understand how water-resistant jackets and thermal vests are vital pieces of clothing whilst being in the great outdoors. Handmade Icelandic-wool sweaters (lopapeysa) are probably the most-famous exports from Iceland, and popular amongst Icelandophiles (lovers of Iceland). Known for their projection, comfort and

striking designs, lopapeysas are perfect souvenirs for the whole family, as well as Iceland-wool mittens, hats, and scarves all of which are available for less at KEF’s Duty Free area. You may or may not have noticed the incredible art work within the terminal. KEF is proud to exhibit pieces that are inspired by the Icelandic landscape and spirit. One such installation can be found right before departures; titled Áttir (Directions), the four cardinal points of the compass are represented by four aluminium human-like figures placed on top of columnar basalt plinths. The piece, by Steinunn Þórarinsdóttir, allows passengers to stand in the middle of it and experience the installation by becoming its central focus. In fact, Þórarinsdóttir’s statues can be found in Reykjavík, Hafnarfjörður, Grundarfjörður, Akureyri, and Ísafjörður – so in essence,

the piece brings together different parts of Iceland into the airport. Have you been sharing your Icelandic experiences with your friends and family online? Are you big Tweeters? Instagramers? Facebookers? In KEF’s Leifur Eiríksson terminal you can connect to the Internet via your own laptop, smartphone, or tablet using the airport’s wireless connection for free. This way you have the option to let them know how much fun you’re having/had, or just to make them extremely jealous! Oh, and one final thing that’s worth mentioning, Keflavík International Airport was voted as the best small airport in Europe by an extensive airport service survey conducted by the Airports Council International. As part of the survey, participants answered a number of questions about the quality of more than 36 service factors, such as its helpfulness and courtesy of staff, ease of flight connections, cleanliness, check-in times, and for the overall customer satisfaction – just so you know that you’re in good hands; correction, good Icelandic hands.

Keflavik International Airport Keflavik Airport, 235 Keflavíkurflugvöllur Tel: +354 425 6000 www.www.kefairport.is We’ll take you there!

Reykjavik Excursions | 73

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FREE

SHUTTLE BUS

RUNS BETWEEN MAY 15TH AND SEPTEMBER 1ST

• World-Renowned Labels • Great Selection of Restaurants • Family Entertainment Center • Multi-Screen Cinema • 15% Tax-Free Refund* *Minimum purchase of ISK 4,000

OPEN: WEEKDAYS 11-19 THURSDAYS 11-21 SATURDAYS 11-18 SUNDAYS 13-18 SMARALIND.IS FIND US ON

Adventure tours

Scheduled flights

Air Charter services

Experience excitement in Iceland’s pure nature or get a bird’s eye view of the country’s most beautiful places Five Destinations With Year-Round Possibilities Gjögur

Air Tours / Sightseeing Flights

Húsavík

Bíldudalur

Höfn

Reykjavík

Westman Islands

Westman Islands One of the wonders of nature, surrounded by mountains, islands, volcanoes and seabirds.

Ice and Fire – Glaciers and Volcanoes A never-to-be-forgotten trip showing the sharply contrasting faces of Iceland’s natural features.

Day Tours

Vatnajökull Region Witness the majestic power of Europe’s largest glacier or conquer Iceland’s highest peak.

North Iceland Visit Húsavík, the whale watching capital, and witness the natural wonders of North Iceland.

The Westfjords Explore one of the country’s most isolated regions, rich in natural wonders.

Big Whale Safari and Puffins Get an exciting trip by fast RIB boat and at the same time witness the biggest creatures on earth and the puffins, ”Clowns of the Ocean”, up close.

Húsavík

Visit our website eagleair.is for detailed information s on our air tours, day tours and charter service

Bookingsandinformation t. +354 562 4200 e. info@eagleair.is w. eagleair.is Location: Behind Icelandair Hotel Reykjavík Natura at Reykjavík Airport

E&Co.

ICELANDIC WOOL

WORN OUT FOR CENTURIES We of fe r c lot h i n g & ot h e r m e r c h a n d i s e t h at r e m i n d s u s of g o o d ol d Ic e l a n d

– Visit our stores: 101 Reyk jav í k , A k u rey r i a nd G ey si r, Hau k ada l. w w w.gey si r.com –