Flybus 2018 by MD Reykjavik

2018

FREE COPY

Seven destinations with year-round possibilities Húsavík

Gjögur Bíldudalur

Experience the excitement of Iceland’s pure nature or get a bird’s-eye view of the country’s most beautiful places

Sauðárkrókur

Höfn

Reykjavík Westman Islands

Westman Islands One of the wonders of nature, surrounded by mountains, islands, volcanoes and seabirds.

Vatnajökull Region Witness the majestic power of Europe’s largest glacier or conquer Iceland’s highest peak.

North Iceland Visit Húsavík or Sauðárkrókur, and witness the natural wonders of North Iceland.

The Westfjords Explore one of the country’s most isolated regions, rich in natural wonders.

For more information, pick up our brochure at your hotel or local tourist information centre, or visit eagleair.is

eagleair.is | +354 562 4200 | info@eagleair.is Location: Behind Icelandair Hotel Reykjavík Natura at Reykjavík Airport

FROM REYKJAVÍK, SÓLHEIMAJÖKULL & SKAFTAFELL

Glacier Walks & Ice Caves

NEW

Kayaking by the Glacier

M O U N TA I N G U I D E S . I S • I N F O @ M O U N TA I N G U I D E S . I S • T E L : + 3 5 4 5 8 7 9 9 9 9

Welcome to Iceland! Whether you are here for an adventure in Iceland‘s stunning landscape or to enjoy what we consider the world‘s most charming capital, we are delighted to have you with us. Sit back, relax and enjoy the free Wi-Fi. Before I tell you a little about our terrific tours let me introduce myself and my team – I am Björn Ragnarsson, the C.E.O. of Reykjavik Excursions. I am proud to lead a company that both honours tradition and drives innovation. In 2018 Reykjavik Excursions is 50 years old. My team and I are busy at work on many exciting events we would love to share with you as we celebrate our first half-century. Please follow us on social media (#reyex) to keep an eye on how you could join in and have fun with us during this special birthday year. Our guides, drivers and planners are honoured to call Iceland home. This means that we love showing our country to you on our carefully crafted tours. We have also taken the time to put things in place to keep Iceland beautiful: achieving the professional accreditation of Vakinn Gold, the highest seal of quality a tourism company in Iceland can have, and obtaining the ISO 14001 international environmental

standard, where we created an environmental management system to look after our nature. We strive to lead the way in sustainable travel, and so we have a fleet of new buses and fully trained guides who are experienced, enthusiastic and eager to show you Iceland. But back to these tours! My team has put together a range of day tours for you. My favourite thing about them is that you can experience the many things Iceland has to offer in just a few hours. Our tours can take you to majestic waterfalls that you can actually walk behind – check out Seljalandsfoss. If you are seeking drama and the raw energy of Iceland, you will love Gunnuhver, which is Iceland’s largest mud pool. Seeing the geothermal power is breath-taking. Moreover, if you have come to Iceland to explore some of the 11% of the country that is covered by glaciers, we have got a range of tours to take you to these icy giants. We encourage you to explore our many tours and remember if you cannot quite find what you are after we have got a dedicated team who can tailor make a tour to dazzle you. Please just ask.

Iceland is a wonderful place. We hope you have a fabulous time here and do not forget to tell us about your magical adventures on our TripAdvisor site. Stay warm, stay safe and enjoy!

Björn Ragnarsson C.E.O. Kynnisferðir - Reykjavik Excursions

Published by MD Reykjavik ehf. Laugavegur 3, 101 Reykjavik | +354 537-3900 | upplysingar@mdr.is Publisher: Sigurþór Marteinn Kjartansson Editor: Gréta Sigríður Einarsdóttir Layout & design: sbs Content writers: Gréta Sigríður Einarsdóttir, Geir Finnsson and Jóhann Páll Ástvaldsson Cover photo: Golli Printing: Oddi, Ecolabelled Printing Company Opinions expressed in this magazine are those of the individual authors. While every effort has been made to ensure the information presented is accurate, prices, times, dates and other information may be subject to change.

This magazine is published and distributed in exclusive collaboration with Reykjavik Excursions – a leading tour and coach operator in Iceland.

Domestic flight One way from €70 A rct i c

GREENL AND Nerlerit Inaat

C i rc l e

e A rct i c C i rc l

Grimsey

Isafjordur

40 min.

GREENL AND Ilulissat Kulusuk Nuuk Narsarsuaq

Thorshofn

. in m 50

Akureyri

in.

Vopnafjordur

Egilsstadir

I C E L A N D REYKJAVIK

FAROE ISL ANDS Torshavn

From city centre to r u o h n a r e d n u in e id s ry t n u o c 60°

Your adventure is just a click away. Our airport is conveniently located in downtown Reykjavik, and a trip across the country that’s as quick as your average commute means that you can get started in no time.

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The Golden Circle Ask any Icelander what you should see while you’re in Iceland and you’ll get the same answer: The Golden Circle! Why the Golden Circle, you ask? Isn’t all of Iceland beautiful, what’s so special about this specific route? I’m glad you asked… The Golden Circle is a 300-km loop of road that usually opens and closes in Reykjavik. It covers three main locations: Þingvellir National Park, the waterfall Gullfoss and the erupting geyser Strokkur in Haukadalur. On the way, you pass all kinds of different landscapes and attractions. The cherry on top is that these magnificent natural wonders are a convenient distance from Reykjavík, so you can be back in the city at a respectable hour after a day of exploring. Þingvellir Þingvellir (pronounced Thing-vet-leer) is an amazing location, not just for its natural beauty but for its rich history, reaching all the way back to the Viking age. It’s where the Icelandic parliament was founded in 930 A.D., shortly after the island’s settlement. This Viking government institution was way ahead of its time and its members met every year at Þingvellir for 4

centuries. It was temporarily disbanded in 1799, only to be reconvened some fifty years later, this time in Reykjavík. Some major matters in Icelandic history have been settled at Þingvellir. For instance, it was there that the decision was made, in the year 1000 AD, that Icelanders would turn their backs on the old Norse gods and convert to Christianity. Þingvellir is also where Iceland submitted to the Norwegian king in the 13th century and where they declared their independence in 1944. In addition to the area’s historical importance, it’s also quite impressive from a geological point of view. As you might know, Iceland is a volcanic island and sits on the rift between the Eurasian and American tectonic plates. At Þingvellir you can actually see that rift, cracking the ground.

This makes for some impressive landscapes, the whole area is covered in cliffs, cracks and fissures, some of them filled with crystal clear water. You can go snorkelling at Þingvellir and even go diving if you have the necessary permits. If you’d rather stay on dry land, simply enjoying the incomparable views is activity enough.

REYKJAVÍK’S EXCURSIONS’ GOLDEN CIRCLE TOURS Golden Circle Direct On this Golden Circle tour, we will experience the thrill of an erupting geyser, one of the country’s most spectacular waterfalls and Iceland’s best-loved national park, all within the space of a few hours. We will visit the hightemperature Geysir geothermal area, the nearby Gullfoss waterfall and Þingvellir National Park, the site of Iceland’s ancient parliament. Come join us on Iceland’s most popular excursion!

Golden Circle & Friðheimar Cultivation Centre The Golden Circle includes a few of Iceland’s most stunning sites; Þingvellir, Gullfoss and Geysir. Additionally, we visit the Friðheimar greenhouse cultivation centre, where we learn about the magic behind growing delicious, pesticide-free tomatoes and cucumbers with the aid of geothermal heat which Iceland has in abundance. Unique food experience!

Golden Circle & Fontana Wellness

Gullfoss When you are able to tear yourself away from Þingvellir, head on towards Gullfoss, a waterfall in Hvítá. Simply describing Gullfoss as a waterfall might be accurate but in order to do its natural beauty justice, you’re going to need to get more descriptive. Gullfoss is a two-tiered, bellowing stream of water; a constant display of the thundering power that nature can unleash when it gets its act together. The amount of water frothing white over cliffs before it goes roaring down into a deep canyon is almost unbelievable, until you see it with your own eyes.

Geysir When you leave Gullfoss, you’ve seen all you need to see of water streaming down, now it’s time to see it shoot straight out of the ground and into the air! Iceland has a few examples of one of nature’s most amazing spectacles – geysers, or erupting hot springs. Geysir is one of the most famous geysers in the world, and the one that gave the phenomenon its name. Unfortunately, due to geological shifts in the earth, it doesn’t erupt regularly anymore, but that doesn’t mean there’s nothing to see.

The best part about Gullfoss is that it’s still relatively unspoilt by humans. There’s just some wooden steps down from the road and a walking path, with a safety rope, up to the spot where the waterfall can best be viewed. This means you have to be careful and watch yourself while you’re there, (don’t cross the ropes! Just don’t do it!) but it also means that you can enjoy the splendour of the unobstructed view, just like nature intended.

Strokkur, Geysir’s neighbour, puts on a show every 6-8 minutes, blowing hot water high into the air. The spectacle is amazing to witness. All around are pools of scorching hot water, some muddy, others clear and yet others bubbling like cauldrons. Icelanders have loved visiting Geysir for a long time, tourists have been able to get coffee and refreshments there since 1928!

This tour combines the very popular Golden Circle tour with a visit to the geothermal baths at Laugarvatn Fontana. At Laugarvatn Fontana, we will get a first-hand experience of how locals use hot springs for baking bread. We will be offered to take a short walk (2 min.) down to the lake shore and observe a rye bread being taken out of a hot spring. Experience the beauty and wellness of Iceland!

Golden Circle & Snowmobiling On this day tour, you will get the adventure of a lifetime - a one-hour snowmobile ride on Iceland’s second largest glacier, Langjökull. Additionally, we will make stops at the stunning Gullfoss waterfall, the high-temperature geothermal area Geysir with its numerous hot springs and Þingvellir National Park. Get up close with some of Iceland’s most stunning natural wonders!

BOOK NOW AT WWW.RE.IS 5

Experience Nature

Iceland is a land of contrasts, of ice and fire. It may be a cliché at this point but that doesn’t make it any less true. This volcanic island, just south of the Arctic Circle, has green valleys and jet-black deserts, glacial rivers and hot springs, fields of lava and jagged mountaintops. Situated atop a geological hot spot as well as a rift between the earth’s tectonic plates, Iceland is a constantly evolving country, with volcanic eruptions approximately every four or five years! Exploring Iceland’s extraordinary landscapes is a chance to see something completely different, so what are you waiting for? Waterfalls They say that when you travel in Iceland, you see a lot of water. It comes in many different forms but one of the most striking one is the waterfalls you’ll find all over the mountainous country. The most famous ones (or at least the most photographed ones) are two waterfalls on the south coast of Iceland, flowing over the edge of the Eyjafjöll mountains, Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss. Skógafoss is a thundering white sheet of water flowing straight down to the plains below but Seljalandsfoss flows over a cliff into the mouth of a wide cave. You can even walk behind the waterfall to see it from the other side. Be careful, you might get wet! Glaciers Another form of water you can’t miss seeing are the icy glaciers covering about 11% of Iceland’s surface area. Each of Iceland’s glacier has a specific character. There’s the mysterious Snæfellsjökull, for example, which Jules Verne

Reykjanes

cast as the opening to the centre of the earth and Langjökull, where you can actually go into the glacier, into a man-made cave at the heart of the glacier’s blue ice. Exploring the surface can be just as enjoyable, going glacier hiking or even snowmobiling! Don’t go onto a glacier without a guide however, they can be dangerous for the inexperienced traveller. Volcanoes and lava fields Iceland has a volcanic eruption approximately every 4-5 years. The landscape is constantly evolving and as you travel around Iceland you’ll see everything from rough, black fields of fresh lava to older, greying lava, covered in a thick blanket of grey-green moss. Be careful not to disturb it, the moss might look sturdy but it’s a delicate plant and takes years to recover if it’s torn. You can still see ash from past eruptions in some areas, in black patches on glaciers and as shadows on the icebergs floating on Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon. 7

NATURE TOURS FROM REYKJAVIK EXCURSIONS South Shore Adventure We drive along the south coast of Iceland, one of the country’s most scenic regions. Along the way we stop at the gorgeous Seljalandsfoss waterfall, which is unique in that you can walk behind it. We also stop at the majestic Skógafoss waterfall and visit the Skógar Folk Museum. Other highlights include the stunning Mýrdalsjökull glacier and the black sand coastline near Vík. A full day of awe-inspiring sights!

Wonders of Reykjanes Get a little bit of everything Icelandic on this tour which includes two geothermal sites (Krýsuvík and Gunnuhver), dramatic coastlines and a quaint, historic town. At the end of the tour, it is possible for those who have a prebooked ticket, to have a soak in the Blue Lagoon. Otherworldly landscapes!

Wonders of Snæfellsnes

Raufarhólshellir

Geothermal areas and geysers Even when there aren’t any active eruptions in Iceland, the heat that continuously boils underground is visible on the earth’s surface. The geothermal force is evident in bubbling pools of mud, still and clear blue pools of water at boiling temperatures, and mud in every colour of the rainbow, from blue to red and yellow. One of the most popular destinations in Iceland is the geothermal area around Geysir, the original erupting hot spring that gave its name to the phenomenon in the English language. While Geysir doesn’t erupt anymore, there’s another geyser just a few metres away, Strokkur, which erupts with an impressive force every 6-8 minutes.

Black beaches Much like Björk, Iceland always has to do things a little bit differently than others. In Iceland, the beaches aren’t a soft golden colour, they’re jet black! The colour comes from the fact that the sand consists of ground up particles of the volcanic basalt that makes up the base of Iceland. The black beaches can make for some dramatic photos, but be careful, another thing that separates the Icelandic beaches from their southern counterparts is that they can be quite dangerous if you get to close to the water. Beaches like Reynisfjara often have dangerous sneaker waves, powerful waves that can pull people into the water if they get to close.

Reykjanes

Caves You haven’t really explored Iceland if you’ve just stayed on the surface. To really get in touch with the bedrock of Iceland, go underground! The young (in geological estimates) country is cut through with caves and underground tunnels, which, at some point in history, were filled with liquid lava! The caves stretch far underground, going from tight spaces to airy underground halls along the way.

The Snæfellsnes peninsula in West Iceland is almost a miniature version of the island. In addition to its characteristic Snæfellsjökull glacier, there are black sandy beaches, bird cliffs, spectacular mountains and volcanic craters. On this tour, we will for example stop at the small fishing village Arnarstapi, the ancient fishing village Hellnar, visit Djúpalónssandur beach and the iconic Kirkjufell mountain. Experience the magic of Snæfellsnes!

Glacial Lagoon Day Tour by Bus On this tour to Jökulsárlón, we drive the south shore, one of Iceland’s most scenic routes. Amongst the stops are Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss waterfalls, but we will also see beautiful mountains, glaciers and beaches. With its enormous and ancient icebergs breaking off from Vatnajökull glacier, this natural wonder of Iceland is a sight you absolutely cannot miss. The lagoon produces a feeling of incredible tranquility as the over 1000-year-old ice silently drifts into the lake and slowly melts away. You may recognise the lagoon from scenes in Batman Begins, Tomb Raider and two James Bond movies. Beautiful scenery all day long!

BOOK NOW AT WWW.RE.IS

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Travel Iceland On Your Own

Iceland On Your Own (IOYO) is a simple, convenient, flexible and affordable way of getting around Iceland. It’s a system of bus routes all over the country that are bookable either individually or in different, extra-affordable packages, called passports. Passports mean you can hop on and off the bus at your leisure, making for an extremely flexible itinerary. The balance between reliability and flexibility makes IOYO an ideal mode of transportation for more independent and self-reliant people - a bit like Interrail for Iceland, without the trains. The buses are modern and comfortable and the fleet includes 4X4 coaches capable of traversing the difficult roads of the highlands, making you free as a (flightless) bird! All of the routes in the south have an audioguide, and some of the routes in the North have a guide-guide, so in a manner of speaking, you’re getting both transportation and a tour. There and Back Again One of the most popular destinations for our more adventurous travellers is the ‘Mountain’s back’, or Fjallabak area north of Mt. Eyjafjallajökull volcano, in the south of Iceland. This includes the Fimmvörðuháls hike, from Skógar to Þórsmörk, and the Laugavegur hike from Þórsmörk to Landmannalaugar. One issue with this hike is the transport – if you drive to Skógar and hike to Landmannalaugar, are you going to hike the whole way back again

to get to your car? And are you going to pay for a rental car to be parked somewhere for 3 days? The Highland Hiker’s Passport is an easy solution to these issues. It takes you once from Reykjavík out to either Skógar, Þórsmörk or Landmannalaugar, and once back to the city from any of the three locations. (Just to be clear, it does not mean that you can hop on and off those buses all summer. Once out, once back, that’s what you get.) The specially outfitted 4X4 coaches can handle the rough roads to Landmannalaugar and ford the rivers on the way to Þórsmörk, so you can just sit back and enjoy the wild ride. One Ring-Road That Totally Rules You may have heard the famous rumour that Iceland only has one road. While that’s technically untrue, it’s a fact that Route 1 is by far the longest and most used road, and it does circle the whole way around the main part of the island. With the Circle Passport you get to go once round the merry-go-round. You can get off wherever you want and back on again, until you get back to where you started from. Definitely recommended for those who want to see the major sights in a convenient, affordable and flexible way.

Other Passports The Highland Pass takes you in a circle, to the north of Iceland along mountain road Kjölur, and then south along Sprengisandur, along the south coast and back to ReykjavÌk, hopping on and off as you please along the way. The Highlights Pass includes a wider area and some of Iceland’s most beautiful natural wonders, where you can travel back and forth along the chosen routes for 7 or 15 days. The Beautiful South Pass and the Beautiful South Circle Pass allow you to explore the south coast of Iceland, either back and forth along your chosen route for a fixed period of days or along a fixed route within a flexible timeframe. The Combo Pass is like the Highlights Pass, but includes all the travel you can do on ALL the IOYO routes, for either 7, 11 or 15 days. So whether you’re a young backpacker, out for some fun with your family, a rugged hiker, adventurous retiree, whether you’re here with friends, loved ones or on your own, if you’re looking for the hidden places off the beaten track or just the tried and tested highlights of Iceland, Iceland On Your Own has something to offer you in a convenient, customizable and cost-effective way. For more information, go to www.re.is and find the package you need!

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REYKJAVÍK AUSTURSTRÆTI 5 • VESTURGATA 4 • ÞINGHOLTSSTRÆTI 2-4 • LAUGAVEGUR 1 • LAUGAVEGUR 89-91 OUTLET • FÁKAFEN 9 OUTLET AKUREYRI HAFNARSTRÆTI 106 • VÍK Í MÝRDAL AUSTURVEGUR 20 • VESTMANNAEYJAR BÁSASKERSBRYGGJU 2 Visit our webstore www.icewear.is Enjoy the easy shopping and quick deliveries

Have an Adventure in Iceland

If watching Iceland’s stunning nature from a bus window isn’t enough for you, you always have a choice to take a more active approach to exploring Iceland. Iceland’s unique landscapes and out-of-this-world nature are the perfect venues for the adventure of a lifetime, whether you feel like driving in a modified jeep to places inaccessible to the rest of the population, riding in an open vehicle like an ATV or a snowmobile, or hiking on your own two feet to places no vehicles can reach. Super Jeeps Iceland is not really a small country even though the population is small. One of the most sparsely populated countries in the world, Iceland’s population mostly resides around the coastline, as the mountainous highlands in the centre of the country are uninhabitable. The landscapes in this inhospitable wilderness are some of the most magnificent you’ll ever witness but the gravel roads leading there are usually extremely rough, sometimes even requiring you to ford rivers. If you want to see these natural wonders with your own eyes (and you do, trust me), no ordinary city car is going to survive the trip. The

Raufarhólshellir

only way is to take a tour in a modified 4x4 jeep that can handle the roads and get you where you want to go. ATV’s You don’t always have to go farther or to an unknown location to get to know a different side of Iceland. Sometimes just changing your mode of transportation is enough to get a whole new experience. Sitting in a car is one thing but feeling the air rush around your head as you zoom across a black sand desert on an ATV is a whole other thing. 13

REYKJAVÍK’S EXCURSIONS’ ADVENTURE TOURS Langjökull Ice Cave Experience – Into the Glacier Visit a unique and remote man-made ice cave in Langjökull glacier. We begin the tour by driving to Húsafell with stops at Deildartunguhver, the beautiful Hraunfossar and Barnafoss waterfalls. After a lunch break in Húsafell (not included), we head on up to Langjökull, almost to the top of the glacier, where we enter the magnificent cave. Imagine standing on an ice cap reaching 200 metres below your feet!

Take a Walk on the Ice Side

Jökulsárlón

Only a few-hours drive away from Reykjavík is Eyjafjallajökull glacier, and just a little further the Sólheimajökull glacier tongue extends down from Mýrdalsjökull. We take a walk on crampons up on to the ice field. We will provide and teach you how to use basic glacier equipment but ice climbing is not included. On the way back there’s a stop at the striking waterfalls, Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss. Challenges and thrills!

Lava Cave and Geothermal Adventure

Super Jeep

Glaciers About 11 % of Iceland’s surface is covered with glaciers. We also have the largest ice cap in Europe, Vatnajökull. From afar, these glaciers look like solid fields of white ice but as you get closer, you see the texture of the ice, sometimes cut through with crevasses, or streaked black with ash from a recent volcanic eruption. Visiting these glaciers is an experience unlike any other and going hiking on a glacier is highly recommended. Just be sure to travel with an experienced glacier guide, the glaciers can be dangerous for the uninitiated. If hiking on a glacier isn’t fast enough for you, you can always go snowmobiling. Whooshing acroass the white blanket of snow is an amazing feeling and the view is incomparable. It’s the perfect chance for a selfie to make people believe you really visited ICE-land. 14

Inside a glacier

Finally, you don’t have to stick to just exploring the surface of the glacier. You can also travel into the glacier! At the heart of the Langjökull glacier, the part where the ice is the thickest, you can climb into a man-made ice cave and explore the glacier from the inside. Caving You don’t have to limit your explorations to the earth’s surface. Iceland’s unique geology has resulted in some interesting phenomena, such as the lava tube cave. These long and winding caves stretch far underground because at one point, liquid lava flowed through the tunnels. Now empty, the lava tubes are incredible places to explore due to the impressive rock formations you’ll come across.

On this tour, we will visit Iceland’s largest natural lava cave. The stunning Víðgelmir cave (148000m 3 ) is one of the largest natural lava caves in the world. There we start an adventurous and guided walk down the great, colourful and beautiful lava cave. Following the cave adventure, we relax at the geothermal pool at Húsafell. A family friendly adventure!

Lava Tunnel Caving in Raufarhólshellir On this brand-new tour, we visit the lava tunnel Raufarhólshellir located only 30 minutes from Reykjavík. We will witness the inner workings of a volcanic eruption while we walk in the path of a lava that flowed thousands of years ago. The lava tunnel is one of the biggest in Iceland and gets up to 30 metres wide and 10 metres high. Challenge your senses!

BOOK NOW AT WWW.RE.IS

Noi Sirius is Icelandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading confectionery manufacturer, producing many types of premium chocolate. The delicious taste of the milk chocolate is due to the special breed of Viking cow, native to Iceland, that free roam the countryside, grazing and drinking the purest glacial water in the world.

Steikhúsið simply means “The Steak House” and that underlines our goal, to focus solely on steaks. Steikhúsið is in the middle of Reykjavík, opposite the old harbour, which has recently formed into a lively neighbourhood of restaurants, cafés, artisan stores and work shops. When you visit us, remember to try our “28-day” tendered meat. The heart of the place is a coal oven from Mibrasa, Spain. It is only fitting that we use coal for grilling and baking, since the building housed a blacksmith and metal works in years gone by. THE KITCHEN IS OPEN FROM 17:00 ‘TILL LATE — VISIT WWW.STEAK.IS

: Booking +354 561 1111 & steik@steik.is

A Natural Luxury

Bathing in Icelandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s geothermal heat

Laugarvatn Fontana

Living on a rocky volcanic island just south of the Arctic Circle might not sound like everyoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cup of tea but it does have its perks. While we must be prepared for a volcanic eruption or an earthquake every now and then, most of the time the geothermal heat just bubbles quietly underneath the surface and can be quite useful. Icelanders have learnt to harness the geothermal heat and today, we rely on it for many purposes; to keep our homes at the perfect temperature the whole year round, to create electricity, and most importantly - to bathe in.

For centuries, Icelanders have been taking advantage of the fact that they live in a country where warm water springs from the ground. For the lucky landowners with access to it, not only was laundry a far easier and cost-effective process but bathing and relaxing in hot water also proved invaluable. There are records of hot spring baths dating back to the Viking age! Snorri Sturluson, a 13th-century politician and scholar who documented the stories of the Norse gods for future generations, had his very own hot tub, which still exists to this day. Bathing in geothermal water is not just a thing of the past. To this day, every town in Iceland has a public swimming pool with geothermally heated water, where the locals gather to mingle and chat about everything and nothing in the hot tubs. The swimming pools are a great place

to witness the equality of Icelandic society. Everyone goes to the pool, no matter their age or social standing. The atmosphere is welcoming and on any given day you can find the mayor of ReykjavĂk sitting in the hot tub chatting to a blue-collar worker, senior citizens swimming in the same lanes as athletic youths and teenagers discussing urgent matters of life and love in the wading pool while toddlers run and splash around them. Aside from the public pools, there are a few places in Iceland where you can experience the luxury of the geothermal water in natural surroundings. By visiting the source of the hot water instead of having it pumped to you, you get to witness the energy of the Icelandic landscape in its natural state. The geothermal areas where the hot springs can be found

showcase the power of the geothermal heat. Surrounded by black lava, tiny pools of bubbling water too hot to touch, or other reminders of the immense energy hidden underneath Iceland, the stark landscapes are a contrast to the luxurious pleasures of the spa.

Blue Lagoon 17

Laugarvatn Fontana

Blue Lagoon

The Blue Lagoon Blue Lagoon is the result of a lucky accident, the by-product of using geothermal heat to produce electricity. The characteristic milky blue water is groundwater pumped up from the depths of the earth and mixed with cold seawater to reach the perfect bathing temperature. There are no chemical cleaners in the water, it relies instead on fresh water flowing in constantly. All the water in the lagoon is gradually replaced every 48 hours.

Laugarvatn Fontana The Laugarvatn Fontana Spa is located on the Golden Circle, Iceland’s most popular tourist route. The whole area is rich in geothermal heat, the most spectacular example of which is the Geysir geothermal area, where Strokkur erupts hot water high into the air. The warm water at Laugarvatn has been used for bathing for centuries and the natural steam baths featuring steam rising directly from the hot spring.

Secret Lagoon

The Secret Lagoon The Secret Lagoon is one of the oldest swimming pools in Iceland, recently renovated. The renovations are discreet, with the ruins of the old bathhouse left standing, so visitors can enjoy all modern comforts but still feel like they went back in time for about a century. In between bouts of soaking in the geothermal water, take a walk around the pool, enjoying the view of the surrounding hot springs, some bubbling, some still, and yet others erupting every now and then.

WELLNESS TOURS FROM REYKJAVIK EXCURSIONS Fontana Wellness Geothermal Baths

The Blue Lagoon

Golden Circle & Fontana Wellness

Bathe in the refreshing natural baths of Laugarvatn Fontana while taking in the stunning views of the surrounding mountains and lake Laugarvatn. Enjoy four different hot pools, three steam rooms with varying temperatures and a traditional sauna. You can cool off in between by running across the black sand beach into Laugarvatn lake.

Make your Iceland adventure even better by bathing in the world famous Blue Lagoon. With Reykjavik Excursions you can travel to the Blue Lagoon when arriving or departing through Keflavík International Airport, from your Reykjavík accommodation or in combination with selected day tours. Swimsuits and towels can be rented or bought on the spot.

Pamper yourself!

Relax and enjoy.

Experience the beauty and wellness of Iceland!

BOOK NOW AT WWW.RE.IS 18

BRING

HY HEALT A LOC L OOD FAST F CHAIN

ON THE

BURRITO

Mexican food that is a true fiesta for your taste buds!

Visit us at one of our eight locations in the Reykjavík area, like at the N1 service station just next to the BSÍ bus terminal. You'll also find us in Reykjanesbær which is close to the airport and in Akureyri–the capital of the North.

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Rent a Car

Around two thirds of Icelanders live in Reykjavík or the surrounding area and the rest of the country is sparsely populated – mostly wilderness with patches of farmland and a small town or a fishing village here and there. Exploring the Icelandic countryside is an adventure all on its own, with spectacular landscapes everywhere you look. If you have the time, renting a car and driving around Iceland is an experience you’ll never forget. Where to go One of the most popular destinations in Iceland is the south coast of Iceland. Not only are there beautiful natural wonders every few kilometres, the landscape is also varied and diverse. Black beaches meet verdant farmlands, volcanoes slumber underneath caps of glaciers and tall mountains cut off abruptly by flat coastal areas, waterfalls tumbling over the edges.

If you want to drive the road less travelled, consider visiting the Snæfellsnes peninsula on the west coast of Iceland. The area is like a microcosm of Iceland’s nature, with lava fields, black sand beaches, picturesque fishing villages and the Snæfellsjökull glacier watching over it all. Not only does the glacier play a part in world literature, as Jules Verne’s opening into the centre of the earth and the titular glacier in Halldór Laxness’s Under

the Glacier, it’s also been rumoured to be a favoured landing spots for aliens! Even closer to Reykjavík is the Reykjanes peninsula. You’ve already seen parts of it, as the Keflavík international airport is situated at the tip of the peninsula, but there’s plenty more to it than the road from the airport. Rough lava fields, beautiful lakes, and geothermal areas with bubbling cauldrons of mud and water are well worth the drive! If you have the time (at least 4-5 days), you can drive the whole way around the country, discovering its many secrets and wonders along the way. Route 1, or the Ring Road, is a 1332 km (828 miles) looped road connecting most of the inhabited parts of Iceland. It roughly follows the coastline of Iceland, since most people in Iceland live within a short distance from the ocean - the bit in the middle is mostly mountainous wilderness.

Skógafoss

Reykjanes 21

Do’s and Don’ts while driving in Iceland Do make a road trip playlist. Extra points for including Icelandic music!

Akureyri

Where to Stay Akureyri is the largest town in Iceland outside the Reykjavík area, with a population of just over 18.000. Attractions include a picturesque historical centre, an impressive art museum, a lively town centre with shops and cafés, and in winter, the best ski resort in Iceland. The surrounding area is beautiful, the lovely fishing villages of the Eyjafjörður coastline as well as the natural wonder that is the Lake Mývatn area. Ísafjörður is the largest town in the Westfjords, the oldest and most sparsely populated part of Iceland. The landscapes on the way there and surrounding the town itself are incredible. Since there is so much space between human dwellings in this area, you often feel like the only

person in the whole world. The local culture is unique since the Westfjords have always been a remote area, even by Icelandic standards, and the area surrounding Ísafjörður is a hiker’s paradise.

Don’t stop or slow down on the road to take photos. Most roads with great views have intermittent scenic stops. In their absence, you should still find a safe place to park before you picking up the camera. Do stop along the way, sometimes the unexpected detours can be a highlight of the trip. Look for the square with the looped corners, indicating interesting things ahead!

Stykkishólmur was home to affluent Danish merchants in the past and the charming town centre is reminiscent of that time. Situated on the north coast of the Snæfellsnes peninsula, Stykkishólmur looks over the many islands and rocks of the Breiðafjörður fjord. Taking a cruise out among the islands is a lovely way to spend the day, as is visiting the many interesting museums in town. Don’t forget to drive out to the Snæfellsnes peninsula, exploring the tiny villages along the way.

Don’t forget to consult the weather forecast. The weather is fickle and can change suddenly. Do consider exploring one area instead of driving all over the country if you’re short on time. If you’re just here for a few days, you don’t want to spend all your time in the car.

ENTERPRISE RENT-A-CAR Enterprise Rent-A-Car, one of the largest car rental companies in the world, joined forces with Reykjavik Excursions in 2014. The partnership was formed because of their shared belief in customer care, value and outstanding service in the ever-expanding Icelandic travel network. For over 45 years, Reykjavik Excursions has proudly served travellers keen on exploring Iceland. They offer their customers a chance to explore Iceland safely and economically on their own terms. Iceland has a reputation for being an exciting alternative destination for travellers looking for a different experience. Renting an Enterprise car allows visitors to explore our beautiful country at their own pace. The office is located at the BSÍ Bus Terminal in Reykjavík. Meet & greet service available at Keflavík International Airport.

Why choose Enterprise?

»» Only the newest car models in all categories. »» Competitive prices. »» Unlimited mileage. »» Free hotel pick-up within Reykjavík city limits. »» 2 Flybus+ return tickets included with every rental. »» 24/7 breakdown service. The rental offices are located at the BSÍ Bus Terminal in Reykjavík and at the Keflavík International Airport.

BOOK NOW AT WWW.ENTERPRISE.IS 22

ICELANDIC SEAFOOD makes world’s best sushi The best of Icelandic produce with a nod to Japan and South America. Modern Icelandic flavours, share plates and award winning cocktails. Our kitchen is open 17.00–23.00 sun.–thu. 17.00–24.00 fri.–sat.

SOCIALIZE WITH THE LOCALS

Sushi Social Þingholtsstræti 5 • 101 Reykjavík Tel 568 6600 • sushisocial.is

A LOCAL FAVOURITE FOR 18 YEARS Experience tapas the Icelandic way, made with the freshest local ingredients in an energetic and vibrant atmosphere.

late night dining Our kitchen is open until 23:30 on weekdays and 01:00 on weekends

Vesturgötu 3B | 101 Reykjavík | Tel. 551 2344 | www.tapas.is

A Journey to the Center of the Earth and more The wonders of Snæfellsnes Peninsula

If you only visit one part of Iceland outside Reykjavík, make it Snæfellsnes! The area is a microcosm of Iceland, easily reachable in a convenient Reykjavik Excursions day trip from Reykjavík. Prepare for majestic mountain views, black-sand beaches, a volcano and glacier rolled into one (a Volclacier? A Glaciano?) and, scattered around the scenery, quaint little towns full of stories. Snæfellsjökull The entrance to the centre of the earth The reigning king of Snæfellsnes landmarks is without a doubt Snæfellsjökull glacier, sitting atop an active volcano on the tip of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. The volcano is 700.000 years old and has erupted about 20 times since the last ice age. In his book, A Journey to the Centre of the Earth, Jules Verne used Snæfellsjökull as the point of entry through which Lidenbrock and his team start their journey. Closer to home, the glacier is also the backdrop and titular glacier in Nobel laureate Halldór Laxness’s Under the Glacier. The area surrounding the glacier is a national park, where, among other things, you will find Djúpalónssandur beach, where you can test your strength with the three rocks, Strong, Full-Strong and Half-Strong. These were used by sailors of ages past to compete in strength. The heaviest one is 154 kg! (339 pounds!) Arnarstapi Arnarstapi is a partially abandoned fishing village, which comes to life in the summertime, with fishermen sailing from the harbour and people spending their summers in local cottages. It has a camp ground, an inn, and a restaurant. You can hike around the surrounding area and enjoy the view of the mind-blowing rock formations of the 24

coastlines from the observation deck to which the RE tour will take you. Stykkishólmur Stykkishólmur is a picturesque and beautiful fishing town with only 1100 inhabitants, although that number doubles in the summertime, with all the fishermen and tourists. It serves as the centre of transportation for the area - it’s where you catch the ferry for Flatey Island and Brjánslækur in the Westfjords. The picturesque town has wooden houses from the 19th and early 20th century, the oldest of which is the Norwegian House, built in 1832, which now houses the local folk museum. Stykkishólmur also has a volcano museum and a swimming pool, among other attractions. We’ve only counted a few of the Snæfellsnes area’s attractions, not even mentioning the scattered little farms, the area’s rich history (the peninsula was where the Book of the Icelanders, one of the main historical sources of Iceland was written, as well as being the setting of the ancient Laxdæla), the magnificent Gerðuberg basalt columns, and mountains like Helgafell and Hólahólar (the Hill-hills). To learn more, book a trip and see for yourself! Tours of the whole area and all the sights are available through Reykjavik Excursions.

Reykjavik Excursions BSI Bus Terminal, Vatnsmyrarvegur 10, 101 Reykjavik +354 564 4776 | www.re.is

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Reykjavík City Tours

Reykjavík is a city like no other. This northernmost capital of an independent country may not match other capitals in population numbers but we make up for it in other ways. History Iceland’s first permanent settler in the 9 th century, Ingólfur Arnarson, also happened to be Reykjavík’s first inhabitant. According to legend, he made his homestead in Reykjavík after throwing the beams from his chieftain’s seat overboard and vowing to make his home where they washed ashore. Even though Reykjavík has old roots, it had a long way to go before becoming the city it is today. Up until the 18 th century, Reykjavík wasn’t even a town, just a single farm just like any other in Iceland. Sheriff Skúli Magnússon chose the location for his wool workshop, which set off the industrialisation of Iceland. It’s for this reason that he’s known as the father of Reykjavík. At the turn of the 20 th century, Reykjavík still had just around 6000 inhabitants and most of Icelanders still lived in rural communities. The following century was one of the most turbulent in history and the changes to Icelandic society were incredible. Today, about two thirds of Icelanders live in Reykjavík or the surrounding area and Reykjavík has blossomed into a

dynamic, creative city, rivalling capitals in Europe for its community spirit if not its size. Nature Reykjavík is a small city and just a few minutes’ drive will take you out into untouched nature, with plenty of hiking and picnicking opportunities. In fact, you don’t even have to leave the city centre to see some stunning nature, the view of Mt. Esja from the city centre is spectacular!

Standing by the modern Harpa Concert hall in the city centre and looking out over the sea, with the Esja on the other side of the water gives you a feeling of how close the people of Reykjavík are to nature at all times. Even in the centre of the country’s capital, you still have a view of a mountain range that’s just begging to be a part of your Instagram feed. Mt. Esja is also helpful if you need to find your way, the mountain is straight north from the centre!

Esjan 27

Reykjavík is filled with green spaces. In fact, you can follow walking paths all the way from the tip of the Reykjavík peninsula to Heiðmörk, the wooded area on the south side of the city. On the way, you’d find several lovely locations, popular with the locals for outdoor recreation. There’s even the Elliðaár river, a beautiful, untouched river flowing through the capital, so clear and pure that you can even go fishing, if you get a permit! Music & Culture Despite Reykjavík’s small size, the culture scene is booming. Visual arts and literature thrive despite the small population but the real star of the show is the Icelandic music scene. Iceland, this nation of just about 330.000 people has produced stars such as Björk, formerly of the Sugar Cubes, Sigur Rós, Of Monsters and Men and the list goes on. The local scene is thriving and every music genre you can think of is represented, from introspective indie pop to reggae and hip hop,

Icelanders are putting their own twist on it. A great way to get to know Icelandic music is at the music festivals that regularly take over Reykjavík. There’s the Summer Solstice festival and Sónar Reykjavík, specially dedicated to electronic music, but the biggest one is the Iceland Airwaves festival. For five days every autumn, music lovers gather in the centre of Reykjavík and enjoy a non-stop celebration of the best Icelandic musicians have to offer, as well as some choice international acts. Icelandic literature is also blossoming, especially the crime novels. Even though Iceland statistically has less than one murder per year, Icelandic masters of the Nordic Noir crime fiction have had their books translated in numerous languages and have enjoyed great success overseas.

operates in three different locations, each with a distinct spirit. A new and exciting addition to the Icelandic arts scene is the Marshall Building by Reykjavík’s old harbour district. The building is home to several operations dedicated to modern art, the Living Art Museum, the ambitious Kling & Bang gallery and the working studio of Danish/Icelandic artist Ólafur Elíasson. Taking your time to get to know Reykajvík is well worth your time as the city’s powerful spirit and infinite charm will likely draw you in and never let you go.

The visual arts are also well represented, with the National Gallery of Iceland as well as the Reykjavík Art Museum putting on ambitious exhibitions. The Reykjavík Art Museum

REYKJAVÍK’S EXCURSIONS’ REYKJAVÍK TOURS Reykjavík Grand Excursion

Hop On - Hop Off

On this tour, we will get the highlights of Iceland’s history and culture. Among the stops are Hallgrímskirkja church, Perlan with its 360° viewing deck, Höfði house where Reagan and Gorbachev met in 1986 to begin the process of ending the Cold War and the latest landmark in Reykjavík, Harpa Concert Hall. The guide will provide you with all the essential information regarding Reykjavík‘s rich culture, history and natural environment. The essential introduction to Iceland‘s capital!

Take a bus tour with City Sightseeing and explore Reykjavík at your leisure, with the opportunity to hop on and off at conveniently located bus stops. With the best of both worlds; a modern trendy and forward-looking city whilst at the same time being close to its unspoilt nature, Reykjavík truly is a magical place to behold.

BOOK NOW AT WWW.RE.IS

VOLCANO & EARTHQUAKE EXHIBITION The Gateway to Iceland’s Most Active Volcanic Area

The Lava Centre A world class exhibition on volcanoes and earthquakes surrounded by active volcanoes.

The creation of Iceland Learn how and why Iceland hosts so many volcanic eruptions.

Earthquake simulator Feel what it’s like when the ground starts to shake and rumble.

MORE INFO AND TICKETS AT

Open every day

www.lavacentre.is

9:00 - 19:00

social media

Volcanic eruptions in Iceland Walk through the recent volcanic history of Iceland and learn about over 30 eruptions.

Iceland Volcano & Earthquake Centre Austurvegur 14, Hvolsvöllur · South Iceland

Snapshots from Reykjavik Excursions

On a glacier More on p. 7-8.

Blue Lagoon More on p. 15-16.

Perlan More on p. 19-20.

Gunnuhver More on p. 23-24.

Geysir More on p. 4-5.

Jรถkulsรกrlรณn More on p. 7-8.

On your own More on p. 10

Experience the amazing LangjĂśkull glacier from the inside A rare, once in a lifetime opportunity

k Ă v a j k y e R d n a r e t n e c l l e f a s Ăş H m o r Daily departures f

Find us:

#intotheglacier

www.intotheglacier.is

The History of Iceland in 10 Short Steps

16-18 Million years ago: The formation of Iceland Iceland lies on the intersection of the American and Eurasian tectonic plates. When they started drifting apart, around 16 million years ago, it caused a major volcanic eruption, resulting in the creation of Iceland! Even today, the island still sits on a volcanic hotspot, creatively named, ‘The Iceland Plume’ - resulting in a multitude of earthquakes every year and volcanic eruptions every few years as well. 871 AD: The settlement of Iceland A Norwegian named Ingólfur Arnarsson killed a man and was exiled from his home country. He sailed to a legendary land in the west with two ships. People from the Nordics engaged in a massive land grab in this uninhabited country, taking with them Irish slaves, resulting in a Norse-Celtic mix of genes in Iceland. Thanks to the almost obsessive fixation of early Icelanders with genealogy, most modern Icelanders can still trace their family lines back to this time. As a matter of fact, Icelanders can look up their entire family history on a single website, and they even have an app called Íslendingabók that makes sure they don’t date their (close) relatives.

Iceland is a proud nation with a rich history. From the world’s oldest democratic parliament, to an economic crash of unprecedented size, Icelanders have a lot to boast about, and they‘re usually not shy to do so. Here we present, for the first time ever, the complete, not-really-unabridged History of Iceland, in just 10 short items. This is your unique chance to read up on major events in the history of Iceland, without having to sift through thousands of pages. Now, let‘s start at the very beginning.

930 AD: Parliament established Being a land of renegades and runaways with no king, some system of government had to be instituted. The people of Iceland went ahead and created Alþing (allthing-ee), the oldest democratic parliament that still exists today. In each area there was a chieftain (Goði), a political and religious leader. Every summer, all the chieftains would meet at Þingvellir (Parliament Fields) to discuss laws and settle disputes. Every year, the law speaker, standing on top of the Law Rock, would say a third of the law, completely from memory. This way, the whole law was heard every three years. The law was later written down in the book Grágás, which still exists today. Contained therein are practical laws, such as the penalty for your pet polar bear killing someone. The parliament functions to this day, uninterrupted aside from a period of 45 years from 1800 to 1845. 33

1000 AD: Conversion to christianity, discovery of America Until the tenth century, the predominant religion in Iceland was Ásatrú, the worship of the Norse gods, Óðinn, Þór and the like. In the 980’s Christian missionaries started spreading the faith, leading to violent confrontations. The two factions asked Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði Þorkelsson to mediate. He lay under a bear hide for a day and a night eventually coming to the conclusion that Iceland should be a Christian country. However, worshipping the old gods was allowed as long as you didn’t do it in public! Iceland remained Roman Catholic until 1540, when it converted to Lutheran Protestantism. The Catholic bishops Jón Arason and Ögmundur Pálsson violently opposed the reformation. That opposition came to an abrupt end with the beheading of Jón Arason in 1550. The year 1000 is also when Leif ‘The Lucky’ Ericson discovered America, or ‘Wine-land’ as he called it. He was planning on sailing to Greenland, but was blown off course to the west, where he saw land. He later sailed there and attempted to settle, but gave it up after conflicts with the locals.

Later, in the 14th century, the Kingdoms of Norway, Denmark and Sweden became one kingdom, and when they split up again Iceland somehow wound up under Danish rule. Even today Icelanders are confused and even a little sore about the whole situation. 1602: Monopoly (not the fun kind) In the 1500s, English and German fishermen and traders set up posts in Iceland and traded with the Icelanders. Seeing a mutually beneficial situation which brought prosperity to his subjects, Christian IV King of Denmark naturally decided he wasn’t having it. He granted exclusive rights to trade in Iceland to certain merchants. It is hard to overstate how devastating this decision was. The prices were fixed and the system led to economic stagnation in Iceland until the monopoly was abolished in 1786.

These and other stories are written down in the sagas of the Icelanders, an extensive body of 13th century writings.

The 1750s: The enlightenment and the birth of Reykjavík Until the middle of the 1750s, Reykjavík was just a single farm, and Iceland had no towns or villages of any kind. Sheriff Skúli Magnússon was a man of the enlightenment. He picked Reykjavík to become the centre of modernization, and pioneered the building of wool workshop buildings, one of which still stands, on Aðalstræti 10. This marked the beginning of Iceland’s rise out of the dark ages.

1262 AD: Iceland submits to Norway In the years leading up to 1262, the Icelandic chieftains gradually became more and more powerful, until the whole country was in a state of constant civil war between 7 powerful clans. In order to end to the war, the leaders submitted peacefully to Haakon IV, king of Norway. The story is preserved in saga of the Sturlungs, written down as the events were taking place or shortly after.

1845 AD: The re-establishment of the parliament and the independence movement The enlightenment came to Iceland, and with it, nationalism. Chief among the Icelandic independence campaigners was Jón Sigurðsson, whose birthday, June 17th, was later chosen as the Icelandic Independence day. The movement led to the re-establishment of the Icelandic parliament as an advisory body to the

king in 1845. This was followed by home rule in 1905, sovereignty in 1918 and independence in 1944, when Denmark was too busy being invaded by Germany to do much about it. 20th Century: The world wars and modernization Industry and urbanization was growing, but Iceland had quite a lot of catching up to do. 1900-1910 saw such novelties as electricity, the first car and the first trawler, which marked the beginning of the still-important fishing industry. In the world wars, selling products to the allies and servicing the American occupying force brought an economic boom and cultural influence, such as TV and jazz. This catapulted Iceland into the 20th century and still today the Icelandic culture has an incredible fascination for new and foreign things, technology and culture. 21st century: Crash and miraculous recovery Since the 1950s, Iceland’s economy was characterized by rather high inflation. In the late 1990s, the commercial banking system was privatized and the law was changed to ease restrictions on trade. Following an incredible growth in everything financial, the bubble finally burst in a spectacular manner, in October 2008. The currency of Iceland, the Króna, fell by 50% overnight. People lost their jobs, their houses, and their livelihood and finally to top it all, McDonalds left the country. Since then, Iceland has caught the attention of the international community because of how quickly the economy has recovered. Industry is booming (especially the tourism industry), unemployment is low and wages and prices are rising again.

VIKINGSUSHI ADVENTURE NATURE, BIRDLIFE AND SCALLOP TASTING ON SEA SEATOURS.IS

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THE MOST INSTAGRAM-WORTHY SPOTS OUTSIDE REYKJAVIK

Þingvellir This place has an impressive history but what’s even more impressive are the cliffs flanking the rift between the tectonic plates, where the land is ever so slowly pulling apart.

Geysir (or more accurately, Strokkur) it’s an erupting geyser, of course it’s going to look amazing in photographs. It erupts every 6-8 minutes so be ready with your finger on that camera button!

Skógafoss This beautiful waterfall on the south coast of Iceland, tumbling over a cliff onto the gravelly plains below, looks like what all the little waterfalls want to be when they grow up.

Jökulsárlón The still water, the blue and black icebergs and the gravelly sand banks surrounding the Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon make sure that this place is Instagram gold! 39

THE MOST INSTAGRAM-WORTHY SPOTS INSIDE REYKJAVIK

Hallgrímskirkja Hallgrímskirkja is the most recognisable landmark in Reykjavík. Not only does it look good from the street; the view from the top is incomparable!

The Pond The pond is a tiny lake in the centre of the city. It’s almost impossible to take a bad photo of the pond, it looks good from every angle and in every weather!

The Sun Voyager The metal sculpture inspired by a Viking longboat, with a backdrop of the ocean and Mount Esja is one of the most photogenic spots in Reykjavík.

Harpa The Reykjavík concert hall is a new addition to the Reykjavík cityscape but makes up for lack of history by consistently looking impressive and pretty.

Completing the Golden Circle

Geothermal baths - Natural steam baths Local kitchen - Geothermal bakery

Open daily 11:00 - 22:00 (01/01 - 08/06) 10:00 - 23:00 (09/06 - 20/08) Tickets at www.fontana.is

Get 15% discount by booking online using the promo code: :ybus2018 Bookable on www.fontana.is

E A R LY B I R D C AT C H E S After her time in Iceland, Naomi arrives early at the airport so she can enjoy her last hours there before continuing her journey.

GIVE YOURSELF MORE TIME TO SHOP

F I N D F U R T H E R I N F O R M AT I O N O N YO U R F L I G H T AT K E FA I R P O R T. I S/ E A R LY

Arrive early at Keflavík Airport and we will greet you with open arms. Check in up to 2 ½ hours before your flight so you can enjoy your last moments in Iceland. We offer unlimited free Wi-Fi, many charging stations and a range of shops and restaurants, so you can embrace the last drops of Icelandic taste and feel — and of course Tax and Duty Free.

MORE TIME FOR SHOPPING To remember her time in Iceland, she brings back home unique souvenirs that she bought at the airport.

F R E E

R I DE TO REYKJAVÍK´S LARGEST SHOPPING CENTRE Departures from the Tourist Information at City Hall

TO KRINGLAN MONDAY–SATURDAY Every hour 10 am–5 pm SUNDAYS 1, 2, 3, 4 pm

FROM KRINGLAN MONDAY–SATURDAY On the half hour 11:30 am–4:30 pm SUNDAYS 2:30, 3:30, 4:30 pm

kringlan.is

#kringlaniceland

Q&A Talking Iceland, travel tips and information with What's On's Ewan Callan It doesn’t matter if you’re looking to find the best lobster in town or where the party’s at – the What’s On tourist information centre has the answer. Even though many travellers spend weeks on end searching future destinations on Google, reality often hits people in the face once they touchdown in another country. It doesn’t matter how prepared you are – whether you’re completely lost in Iceland or think you’ve practically become a native – What’s On has got you covered. Situated smack-dab in the middle of Reykjavík’s main street, Laugavegur, What’s On will tell you all about the where, when, how and why of Iceland. An unexpected figure runs a tight ship at the information centre, an Edinburgh native Ewan Callan. Ewan knows every nook and cranny of Iceland and is not short of answers when it comes to advice for visitors.

Why did you come to Iceland in the first place? I had an Icelandic flatmate at university in Glasgow, I then moved to Edinburgh and met other Icelandic people and promised to come over to holiday in 2001. There I met my future wife and moved to Iceland a month after my trip. Do you feel a strong connection to Iceland? There’s a certain connection between Iceland and Scotland as a lot of the countryside looks alike. The west coast of Scotland reminds me of parts of Iceland. There is a certain spot in Faxaflói, looking over Hvalfjörður, which looks exactly like the seaside of West Scotland. Other than that, Iceland is a great society for a family. It’s a great setting for raising children.

You’re an expert on Iceland, what are your pro tips for travellers? A little local knowledge goes a long way in Iceland. I recommend booking accommodation in advance but not to book too many tours or trips in advance. Everything looks great when booking tours online, but some inside knowledge can make a trip more memorable. If you’re staying in Reykjavík you want to stay within 10 minutes walking distance from the centre, and the old harbour area. The simpler things are often the best things, regarding tours. What’s one thing you have to do while in Reykjavík? Reykjavík is a city on the edge of wilderness – so you have a great opportunity to experience nature. I think it’s a shame if people would only stay in Reykjavík, and not

travel to a place like Þingvellir to experience some nature and history. There’s a lot to do in Reykjavík’s surrounding area and travellers should definitely try to do the Golden Circle and the south coast. Having said that, there are less travellers in the Snæfellsnes peninsula – and there definitely shouldn’t be. It’s no less magical than the south coast! What’s one thing you definitely shouldn’t do in Iceland? Do not disrespect the nature in any way, whether camping or driving. People throw rubbish all the time and leave items behind in nature. Iceland is beautiful and clean, let’s keep it that way. What do most travellers ask about? During winter, what most people would like to know about are the northern lights, between September and March. People are also interested in ice caves. In the summer the questions are a lot more focused on how to best approach driving in Iceland. But I get so many different questions about Iceland and activities, there’s almost too much to mention!

What's On, Laugavegur 3

Do you have some fun stories from the What’s On centre? The most famous person to walk in from the street to What’s On is Ian McKellen. Gandalf himself came in here and chatted for about half an hour, mainly asking questions about the Reykjavík nightlife. Then the most famous fake person to visit was a Bono impersonator, which was quite funny as well. What’s your favourite part of the job? Meeting different people every day who come to Iceland. It’s changing, there are more people coming from South America, the nationalities of the people coming here are always changing. What’s your take on people claiming that Iceland is becoming overcrowded with travellers? This question was never raised in the past as we used to have close to zero at one point, but I believe it’s not a problem. It’s all relative – if you go to Þingvellir and there’s 200 people there you can’t really compare it to the Grand

Ewan Callan enjoying the Reykjavik nightlife

Canyon where there’ll be thousands of people. Tourism has definitely increased but we do not have too many of them – it’s not a complaint for many travellers. We see a lot of people through the What’s On windows on Laugavegur, but the reality is often different in the countryside.

If you have any questions about Iceland and what to do while you’re here, contact What’s On ask for assistance, or just stroll down to their office on Laugavegur 5 and ask Ewan in person!

Finally, what is the best way to enjoy the Reykjavík nightlife? Find the first bar you like early in the night and talk to the staff to get some advice. If you’re looking for something fun to do, check out the What’s On event calendar at www.whatson.is/ec.

What’s On Laugavegur 5, 101 Reykjavík +354 551-3600 | info@whatson.is www.whatson.is

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What does it take to make an Icelandic Lopapeysa Puffins, volcanoes, Northern Lights and blond people in lopapeysas. That’s a stereotypical image of Iceland, but for the most part, it’s actually pretty accurate, (even if the blond part tends to be bottled). Almost everyone has a lopapeysa, the woollen sweater with the circular pattern around the shoulders. It’s really no wonder, they’re warm, pretty, and as quintessentially Icelandic as it gets.

Even though the lopapeysas are important to Icelanders, they haven’t really been around for as long as you would think. In fact, there are probably plenty of Icelanders who think it’s an older tradition than it really is. The truth is that even though people have been making woollen sweaters in Iceland since settlement times, the lopapeysas, with their distinctive style and fabric, have only been produced in this way since around the middle of the 20th century! For a sweater to qualify as an Icelandic lopapeysa, it must be made from Icelandic wool, specifically lopi (more on that later), be knitted in a certain style and have a specific type of pattern. 48

Lopi (The Wool) Icelandic wool comes from sheep, just like any other wool. So, what makes it so special? The answer is: the Icelandic sheep. Ever since the first sheep were brought over by the settlers, Icelandic sheep have been bred in isolation, retaining some qualities that have been lost elsewhere. For instance, their fleece consists of two different layers, made up of different fibres. The outer layer is made of coarse long hairs that are hardy and almost waterproof, while the inner layer consists of soft warm fibres that keep the sheep warm. When these two types of fibres intertwine, the result is warm, lightweight material, that also happens to be water repellent.

It’s not just the fleece that makes the wool for the lopapeysas different, it’s also the production method. Lopi is unspun wool and for a long time it was only considered a stage in yarn production, an incomplete raw material, especially since knitting machines can’t use lopi. All authentic lopapeysas are therefore handknitted. The airiness of the unspun wool is part of what makes the sweaters so warm, so make sure the sweater you’re getting is 100% lopi. The knitting style One of the reasons that the sweaters became so popular is that they’re easy to knit and can be knitted relatively fast. The sweaters are

knitted on circular knitting needles, from the bottom up, and the sleeves are knitted onto the sweater with the pattern. When the sweater has been knitted, the only thing left to do is to hide two ends and sew the armpits shut, making the whole process pleasantly simple. If you feel like trying your hand at knitting a lopapeysa, you can get a prepared kit with everything you might need at the Handknitting Association’s stores. The patterns The circular border of pattern around the shoulders is the most striking thing about the Icelandic lopapeysa. Although the sweaters were pioneered only a few decades ago, no one really knows who came up with the design. Some knitting pioneers have been named as the pioneers of the lopapeysa but as with most things, the truth is probably a little more complicated. The most prevalent explanation is that the design was an organic process with roots in the trends and evolving styles of the Icelandic knitting community in the 20th century, borrowing from knitting styles of Greenland, the Faroe Islands and the Hebrides. There are several classic patterns that are popular but knitters also have a creative license, the only requirement is that the sweater has a circular pattern around the shoulders. Some sweaters have a simple pattern around

the waist and wrists as well, but that’s optional. In many cases, the patterns are inspired by traditional Icelandic patterns, Icelandic nature, or even folklore, but some of the first patterns were also inspired by Greenlandic and even South American patterns, seen in books. Icelandic artisans The thing about lopapeysas is that because the lopi is unspun, it’s very difficult to knit it in machines. That’s why the lopapeysa is traditionally knitted by hand. Many Icelandic knitters knit lopapeysas for sale and export and in 1977, the Handknitting Association of Iceland was founded. By marketing and selling the lopapeysas themselves, the knitters could have more control over the sales of their products and ensure that only the highest quality garments were being sold as the Icelandic lopapeysa. To this day, the knitters of the Handknitting Association sell their beautiful wares out of their Skólavörðustígur 19 store and their Borgartún 31 location, as well as online (www.handknitted.is). They have a pretty impressive selection of the woollen goods in stock, but you can also have things custom made in a short period of time. If you’re interested in knitting a lopapeysa yourself, the have everything you might need - needles, patterns, and most importantly, Lopi wool.

The Handknitting Association Skólavörðustígur 19, 101 Reykjavík Borgartún 31, 105 Reykjavík +354 552 1890 | handknit@handknitted.is www.handknitted.is 49

The History of Icelandic Rock‘n‘roll

There’s more to Icelandic music than Björk, you know!

ICELANDIC MUSIC HISTORY IN 5 ALBUMS Fish may be Iceland’s biggest export but the most interesting one is definitely Icelandic music! Now, I know what you’re thinking: “Well, I guess, but to be honest, I’m just not that really into Björk” First of all, how dare you disrespect our queen, second, there’s a lot more to Icelandic music than Björk! Icelandic musicians have been making it big in the international music scene for decades, everything from Mezzoforte and their Garden Party to Kaleo and Emilíana Torrini. If you want to know just why Icelandic musicians are so darn good, let me take you on an imaginary road trip to Keflavík, where it all began. If you’re travelling in Iceland, Keflavík is probably most familiar to you as the location of the Keflavík airport but there’s more to Keflavík than international transportation! Keflavík is where Icelanders first discovered rock music. The airport actually factors in the history of Icelandic music because it was built by British and American soldiers during WWII. For decades after the World War, Keflavík was the location of an American army base and the town of Keflavík was fascinated by the American culture, especially their music! The young people went wild for rock and roll music and Keflavík became known as Beatletown, due to the number of Beatleesque bands originating in the town. If you want to know what happened next, it’s time to head into the Icelandic Museum of Rock’n’Roll, which of course is in Keflavík. It documents the developing music scene of Iceland, which later produced stars like 50

Björk, Of Monsters and Men and Kaleo, giving insight into the unique creative spirit of Icelandic artists. The history of Icelandic music is explained with the help of photos, outfits belonging to some of the stars of Icelandic music history, and, of course, music. Armed with a tablet guide, containing detailed information about Icelandic music, sorted by eras, you can enjoy the exhibition at your own pace, in your own time. If you get inspired by the innovative artists of Iceland, you can even try your hand at making some music yourself, picking up a guitar, playing some drums, or trying your hand at singing in the karaoke booth! The Icelandic Museum of Rock 'n' Roll Hjallavegur 2, 260 Reykjanesbær +354 420 1030 | rokksafn@hljomaholl.is www.hljomaholl.is

Trúbrot – Lifun, 1971 This late 60’s/early 70’s prog rock band was a supergroup, with members from popular bands of the sixties, Flowers and Hljómar. Trúbrot’s conceptual album, Lifun, is one of the gems from this decade.

The Sugarcubes – Life’s Too Good, 1988 The Sugarcubes most famous member is the lead singer, one Björk Guðmundsdóttir, but the Sugarcubes music shouldn’t be overlooked. It’s difficult to define but words like alt-rock or avantpop have been used in context with their music.

Sigur Rós – Ágætis Byrjun, 1999 Sigur Rós are probably the second most famous artists to come out of Iceland. The post-rock group has been active since the mid-nineties and their ethereal sounds and out-of-this-world vocals solidified the reputation Björk started for Icelandic music – introspective elf music.

Írafár – Allt sem ég sé, 2002 With catchy tunes and inane lyrics, the summer pop music of the late 90’s and early 00’s was immensely popular in Iceland. Írafár is one of a host of bands that will evoke instant nostalgia in the hearts of everybody of a certain generation.

Reykjavíkurdætur – RVK DTR, 2016 We’re still influenced by American culture and for the past few years, several Icelandic artists have been making hip hop and rap music! Reykjavíkurdætur is one of the most exciting acts coming out of Iceland at the moment, a 16-member rap collective making music about everything from Icelandic politics to their own impending international fame.

Superjeeps and Snowmobiles

Looking over the fresh plain of snow before me, surrounded by cliffs rising darkly from the otherwise endless white, engines revving around me, I feel a sense of exhilarating excitement. Moments later, when we set off, speeding over the crisp snow, only one question comes to mind. Why have I never gone snowmobiling before? Going on the Pearl Tour with Mountaineers of Iceland isn’t something you do every day. A visit to the Golden Circle, followed by snowmobiling on a glacier is one of those amazing opportunities Iceland has to offer if you know where to look. I had to wake up earlyish for the trip that day so even once I was fully dressed, standing downtown, waiting for my ride, I felt like I just woke up. What finally jolted me awake was the arrival of a large, shiny jeep, barely fitting into the narrow streets in the city centre. The driver who jumped out to greet 52

us seemed perfectly awake despite the early hours and, even better, would prove to have answers to every question we had. The first part of the tour was a visit to the stops on the famous Golden Circle. It’s one of the most popular tourist attractions in Iceland – and for good reason. These places are not only near Reykjavík, they’re also completely visually stunning as well as interesting from a historical or geological standpoint. If you’re interested in pure natural spectacle, there’s nothing like

seeing boiling water erupt from the ground at the Geysir geothermal area or the thundering force of Gullfoss waterfall booming down into the canyon below. Þingvellir is a beautiful location and gives you a sense of the immense force of the earth below you. The earth has literally ripped apart and you can see the jagged edges and tears. On top of being visually arresting, the area is soaked in history, as this is the exact spot where the Vikings created their parliament in the year 930. Century after century, the laws of

the land were read out loud over these very rocks and some of the most major decisions in Iceland’s political history were made here. I don’t want to downplay the importance and wonder of the Golden Circle, but now it was time for what I was most excited for – snowmobiling. The drive up to Langjökull glacier is an event in and of itself. Driving away from the ruffled lava fields covered in soft grey-green moss, the nature around you becomes sparser and rockier the farther up you go. Langjökull is the second largest glacier in Iceland and as soon as you’re up there, the summery vision of Þingvellir feels almost like a dream. The icy surroundings are no less stunning than the verdant landscapes we had

seen this morning, however, and as we got out of the jeep and started preparing for our snowmobile ride, I was once again struck by the majesty of Iceland’s landscapes. There’s nothing dainty or pretty about the rugged crags rising from the snow or the ice below our feet, instead, it’s a grand beauty that feels sturdy, somehow. We geared up, put on thick snowsuits to keep us warm and strapped on our helmets before mounting the actual rides. If you’ve never been on a glacier before, you might be thinking that it’s one uninterrupted field of snow but that’s far from true. A glacier is a landscape all on its own, with hills and valleys aplenty. You quickly find out that following in

your guide’s sleigh prints is the only way to go. We followed him onto the glacier, slowly at first, where the snow was spotty and rocky areas could poke through. As soon as we were on solid ice, however, we were off. With the wind whooshing over our screens and icy landscapes rolling by at a close to alarming speed, I felt an adrenaline rush. The speed feels much more intense when you’re riding this close to the ice in an open vehicle and riding down steep slopes felt very much like an adult version of the most thrilling sleighrides you ever had as a kid. The ride was thrilling but despite the speed, we felt like we were in good hands. At one point, one of the group stopped on a particularly steep slope but no sooner than she had slowed down, she immediately had a Mountaineer with her, guiding her along the way. By the time we were back in Reykjavík, I felt like I had seen a different side of Iceland and sincerely conveyed my satisfaction with my day and my gratitude to our Mountaineer. I know that they have some other trips into Iceland’s interior, but I can tell you that after the experience, the Pearl Tour gets full marks in my book.

Mountaineers of Iceland Köllunarklettsvegur 2, 104 Reykjaík +354 580 9900 www.mountaineers.is 53

How to Connect to Iceland’s Viking Past What is the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Iceland? Björk, volcanic eruptions, and heaps of snow? Well, you wouldn’t be too far off, but what about the Vikings? Iceland’s settlers were mostly Vikings and even though that was a long time ago, elements from their culture still linger in the Icelandic heritage. Worship the Norse Gods These days, people are more likely to recognise Thor, Odin and Loki as characters from a Marvel movie, but we had them first! The Norse gods who inspired the comics were the gods of the first settlers to Iceland, and although Icelanders as a nation converted to Christianity in the year 1000 AD, the Norse gods still have a thriving group of believers today keeping the old customs alive. Also, even if you don’t believe in the Norse gods, the stories of their escapades are pretty entertaining!

Write a poem Icelandic Vikings weren’t just known for violence, but also their poetry. In fact, their lyrical skills were no less revered than skills on the battlefield! Writing a poem for a king could save you from execution or get you banished from his territory, depending on the poem’s quality. In these modern times, fighting, raping, and pillaging is heavily discouraged, but writing poetry is very much encouraged, so to get in touch with your inner Viking, find a quill and some calf skin and get scribbling!

Feed a raven Ravens have a special spot in Iceland’s mythology and folklore. Likely stemming from Odin’s special connection to his ravens, Huginn and Muninn, Icelanders have always had respect for the raven. Icelandic superstitions claim that feeding scraps to ravens during winter can be a good insurance scheme. In folk tales, ravens often repay the kindness by warning their benefactors of impending avalanches or other natural disasters.

Visit viking remains It’s been a long time since the Vikings lived in Iceland but there are still some remnants of that time left. Museums in Iceland contain relics from the Viking past, swords and bones for example, and you can even take a look at the ruins of a Viking longhouse in the oldest part of Reykjavík. However, the most important treasures from the Viking age are not jewels or buildings, but the manuscripts, revealing the history of the Viking settlers here in Iceland.

The Fisherman’s Village 54

Head over to the Viking Village What better way to get in touch with your inner Viking than to eat like a Viking, drink like a Viking and sleep like a Viking! The Viking Village in Hafnarfjörður has been keeping the Viking spirit alive for the past couple of decades and shows no signs of stopping. They have the only Viking themed restaurant in the Reykjavík area. Their Viking feasts are not to be missed and in January, they even serve a classic Icelandic Þorrablót (a feast of traditional Icelandic food)! To cap it all off, the restaurant has live entertainment almost every night! The accommodation is lovely as well and a great way to immerse yourself in the Viking culture. Both the hotel rooms and the Viking cottages are designed to evoke the spirit of the Vikings without sacrificing any modern conveniences. You’ll sleep like a baby and hopefully dream of an age gone by, when the Vikings roamed the land. The Viking Village Strandgata 55, 220 Hafnafjörður +354 565 1213 | www.vikingvillage.is

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Celebrating Design Bringing style to Iceland since 1975 Epal is lovingly familiar to Icelanders. It was founded more than 40 years ago when young Eyjólfur Pálsson returned from studying furniture design in Copenhagen. He soon realised that Icelanders didn’t have access to quality design items like he was used to. It was this shortage that led to the founding of Epal.

Once upon a time ... Because the Industrial Revolution started late in Scandinavia, Swedish, Finnish, and Danish designers created modern design using traditional materials and handcrafts back in the early 20th century. That use of easily available types of wood and traditional craftsmanship is a continuing trend in Scandinavian design. Scandinavian furniture is of a unique and stimulating class and this widely known common term applies to furniture from Sweden, Denmark, Norway, Finland and Iceland. This type of furniture has evolved over the years to conform to the standards of modernity. Epal has always strived to offer the best of Scandinavian design at any given time. Famous items such as The

Egg and Series 7 by Arne Jakobsen, PH 5 by Poul Henningsen and timeless giftware by Iittala and Georg Jensen have been available in Epal for decades. The list of design items available is extremely long and interesting. This is the sort of store you can always walk out of feeling like you have invested in beauty and style. The visionary Eyjólfur’s objective through the years has been to increase understanding and respect for good design and quality products by introducing first class design and offering noted design labels from Scandinavia and other countries. But his main passion has always revolved around supporting Icelandic designers and he has

strived to assist in promoting their work. In his own words: “I realised a long time ago that good things happen at a slow pace. When you feel like things aren’t happening fast enough, it is best to take a deep breath, look at things in perspective and realise that Iceland has an abundance of well educated, hardworking people doing great things and working together to achieve their mutual goals. At Epal, we want to support this in any way we can by helping Icelandic designers put their ideas into action.” Eyjólfur addresses this point even further: “Up until now, Iceland has been far behind the other Nordic countries in supporting design and designers. With a strong, joint effort we could come a long way in improving the conditions of Icelandic designers who are advancing rapidly both home and abroad.” Eyjólfur stepped down from running Epal in 2010 and handed the torch over to his son, Kjartan Páll Eyjólfsson. Eyjólfur admits that he still has strong opinions regarding everything remotely related to the running of Epal but now that the store is in his son’s capable hands, he has more time to work on his passion: to help young Icelandic designers make their way in the jungle out there.

The stores With this beautiful vision as a guiding light, Epal has flourished in the past four decades and there are now five Epal stores in Iceland, with the flagship store located in Skeifan, and beautiful stores in the Kringlan shopping mall, Harpa concert hall, and Laugavegur, Reykjavík’s main shopping street. Their newest boutique is located at the Keflavík international airport so you can stop by on your way home for a beautifully designed souvenir. When asked what era of furniture fashion most impresses him, Eyjólfur replies: “It is hopeless to speak of fashion when it comes to furniture and house accessories and I would rather not do that. We offer classic items that never go out of style. I think it is very important for people to invest in items that can withstand the test of time.”

We offer classical items that never go out of style.

Epal Harpa Epal Skeifan 6 Epal Kringlan Epal Laugavegur 70 Epal Keflavík International Airport +354 5687733 www.epal.is Epal Skeifan 6, 108 Reykjavík +354 568 7740 | www.epal.is 57

The Icelandic Horse A Faithful Servant and a Loyal Companion

One of Iceland’s biggest claims to fame (aside from Björk, of course) is the Icelandic horse. Short, stout and shaggy, its nickname through the ages has been þarfasti þjónninn (the most needed servant) and its importance in the farming society, especially in the ages before the arrival of the car, can hardly be overestimated. While its farming duties have lessened with the change of times and invention of the motorcar, there are still plenty of horses in Iceland and riding for pleasure is a very popular hobby, especially since the Icelandic horse has so many qualities that make it an exceptionally good riding breed. It's got the look Icelandic horses tend to be around 140cm tall and weigh between 330 and 380kg. Internationally, a horse breed shorter than 1,.47m is dubbed a pony, so the Icelandic horse is on the limit. Based on their sturdy build and strong personalities, Icelanders never call their horses ponies, though. They come in many coat colours, including chestnut, bay, black, gray, white, palomino, pinto and roan, making them very photogenic! A viking horse When the Vikings were settling Iceland more than a thousand years ago, they brought horses because they needed them, but when they had enough horses, it made much more sense to 58

breed their own rather than keep importing. The settlers’ horses weren’t of one specific breed to begin with, but since the 11th century, no horses have been imported to Iceland and the result of centuries of breeding, is known as the Icelandic horse. The Icelandic breed has retained some qualities other breeds have lost, and gained some new ones in the unique conditions of Iceland. No way back Importing horses has been banned for a long time, because the Icelandic breed is susceptible to foreign diseases. And once an Icelandic horse leaves the country, it can never return. This means that Icelanders going to riding competitions abroad can’t bring their horses back. The result of this, as well as international interest in the Icelandic horse, is that there are more Icelandic horses outside of Iceland than in the country. Smart and tough Icelandic horses had to survive all kinds of weather and all kinds of terrain with their riders,

but since Iceland doesn’t have a particularly rich native fauna, they didn’t have to fear predators. This made for natural selection that promotes intellect over flight instincts. Icelandic horses aren’t as skittish as other horse breeds, they are attentive and think about every step they take. This makes them a companion on a ride, instead of just a mode of transportation to be controlled. But wait, there's more! Icelandic horses are genetically suited to perform more gaits than other horses. They have up to five gaits, including a flying pace where all legs are in the air at once and the tölt or ambling gait, during which the horse has at least one foot on the ground at any time. Tölt is valued for its smoothness and is ideal for traversing Iceland’s rocky terrain.

If you’re in town July 1st to 8th, be sure to check out the The National Icelandic Horse Competition, taking place in Reykjavík!

Connecting with the locals: Priceless. Welcome to Iceland, where cards are a simple and safe way to pay.

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Ta sty l o c a l c u i s i n e by the old harbour Nýlendugata 14, 101 Reykjavik.

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Wonders of the Volcano Iceland’s volatile geography means that every now and then, Icelanders must be prepared for an earthquake, or even a volcanic eruption. At the Volcano House by the old harbour, close to Reykjavík’s city centre, you can learn more about the unique geology of Iceland. An Icelandic volcano is the reason for democracy as we know it The 1783-4 eruption of Laki was the biggest eruption in recorded history. When it erupted, the ash travelled all over Europe, causing widespread crop failures. The resulting famine was almost certainly one of the causes of the French revolution of 1789. When the people ran out of bread and were told to “eat cake” instead, they revolted, resulting in the first modern democracy as we know it. Two of the biggest eruptions in the recorded history of the world, occurred in Iceland! Laki was the biggest eruption in recorded history, measured by volume of lava. But Iceland was also the site of the second biggest emission in recorded history: the 2014 eruption of Bárðarbunga. In just 6 months, Bárðarbunga produced enough lava to cover the island of Manhattan – 85 km2. And Laki? That produced 370 km2 of lava in only 50 days!

Surtsey, a volcanic island formed in 1963, has only ever been visited by scientists Surtsey was formed by a volcanic eruption at the bottom of the ocean and emerged from the water on November 14, 1963. It was immediately granted protection by law and to this day, only scientists can go there. Even they must get special permission. This means that we have been able to monitor how life settles on a brandnew land from the beginning! 1/3 of all the earth’s fresh lava originated in Iceland! When you’re discussing volcanoes, all concepts that have something to do with time get a bit skewed. For instance, fresh lava means lava emissions on earth since the year 1500 AD. So, why is all this liquid rock spewing to this particular spot on the surface? Because Iceland sits right on top of a crack between two tectonic plates as well as a geologic hot spot. Iceland has a volcanic eruption every 4 -5 years! This isn’t surprising considering the island has more than 100 volcanoes, split into different volcanic systems. About 30 different systems are still considered “active” in Iceland, and 13 of them have erupted since the Viking Settlement in 874.

Want to get up Close and Personal with the Volcanoes of Iceland? In the Volcano House, down by the Old Harbour, you can study the wonderful geology of Iceland. The exhibition gives guests an insight into the powerful Icelandic volcanoes and the rocks and minerals they spew to the surface. There’s also a Volcano show every hour on the hour, where you can learn about past eruptions. First, you learn about the eruption in the Vestmannaeyjar Islands in 1973. The small fishing community was faced with a sudden volcanic eruption in the middle of the night, forcing nearly 5,000 locals away from their homes. The second film documents the infamous eruption in Eyjafjallajökull 2010. This massive eruption caused thousands of flight cancellations, derailing the travel plans of people all over the world. The mineral exhibition gives an overview of Iceland’s geological history and volcanic systems. A large collection of semi-precious rocks and minerals, as well as ash and lava, is on a display.

Volcano House Tryggvagata 11, 101 Reykjavik +354 555 1900 | volcanohouse.is 61

A Wrist-Work of Art Clockmaking is one of those professions that carry an air of mystique and an aura of respect. You immediately think of skilled craftsmen from somewhere in the middle of Europe—Switzerland or Vienna—who learned the skill on their father’s knee, who learned it from his father before him and so on and so forth. But what if I told you that a watchmaker doesn’t have to be old, have been doing it since forever, or even be Swiss to produce quality timepieces with a unique design? A rocky start This is exactly what Sigurður Gilbertsson, along with his friends, Grímkell Sigurþórsson and Júlíus Heiðarsson, told his father, Gilbert Ó Guðjónsson. He was trying to persuade him to join their venture of designing and producing their own collection of high-quality watches. Gilbert, a clocksmith with more than 40 years of work and experience of the difficult Icelandic economy under his belt, laughed in his face. Such an ambitious production for such a small market seemed a farfetched idea, no matter the accumulated expertise of the people involved. When Gilbert stopped laughing and realised that his son was serious, things started happening. They made a hundred watches of their own design to begin with and the rest is history. 62

Today, JS Watch co. is a thriving business with several different collections of high-quality design watches, each of them bearing witness to the craftsmanship that goes into making them. They’re also selling like hotcakes, proving beyond a shadow of a doubt that you don’t have to be Swiss to make a quality watch. The devil’s in the details What is it about the JS watches, though? The team credits their success to their attention to detail. “We not only take pride in our watches, but also our customer care. It’s very important for us that the people who buy our timepieces know the level of perfection we try to achieve. Although we aim to get that message across in our international sales, nothing beats talking to someone face to face and inviting them into our workshop.”

A satisfied customer is the best reward JS Watch clientele includes some famous faces (or should I say famous wrists), including Tom Cruise and Yoko Ono. Perhaps even more interesting, other clients of note include the entire Icelandic Coastguard. JS Watch co. is the Coastguard’s official supplier of watches and the offshore emergency service exclusively uses the Sif North Atlantic Rescue Timer, which should give you an idea of the brand’s reputation for durability and accuracy.

JS Watch co. Laugavegur 62, 101 Reykjavík +354 551 4100 www.jswatch.com

INTRODUCING THE LIMITED EDITION

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All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection. www.jswatch.com

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A Paradise off the Beaten Track Reykjavík may be a small city, but downtown can still get a little crowded. Most of the time that can be sort of nice, but sometimes you just need a little change of pace, a chance to get out of the city. Just off the Nauthólsvík beach, in an unassuming building blending in with the nature around it, lies Nauthóll bistro. As much as I love the many lovely restaurants downtown, coming to Nauthóll always feels like a special treat. As you enter the modern, Scandinavianlooking building, you’re greeted with a gorgeous view of the beach and surrounding nature through the large windows, as well as a beautiful natural light. Just like the building itself, the interior décor, the tableware, even the food itself is all served in a beautifully simple style. The clean, clear lines of the restaurant itself, harmonise beautifully with the ingredient-forward cuisine and come together to create an experience that is the height of Scandinavian style, with a nod to the uniquely Icelandic aesthetic (look for the lopapeysapatterned staff uniforms, for example). It’s easy to feel a strong connection to nature while spending time at Nauthóll, which is why, for me at least, the cherry on top of the eating experience is the fact that the restaurant is dedicated to being as naturefriendly and green as possible in all stages of their operation. They’ve even qualified for 64

the Nordic eco label, the Swan. The label is awarded to companies that have proved that they do everything in their power to minimise their effect on the environment. Now, all the style and environmental heroism in the world wouldn’t be enough for me to like a restaurant, if the food wasn’t up to par. Luckily, the chefs of Nauthóll know their stuff. The food matches the surroundings perfectly, making Nauthóll a great place for lunch, an afternoon coffee or a dinner. Although I must admit, sometimes the food isn’t even necessary, a glass of white wine on the terrace on a sunny afternoon can be just as enjoyable. The hardest thing about a visit to Nauthóll is leaving the tranquil environment and heading back to the city. I manage, barely, but will look forward to many visits like this to Nauthóll and Nauthólsvík this summer.

Nauthóll Bistro Nauthólsvegi 106, 101 Reykjavík +354 599 6660 www.nautholl.is

Into the Belly of the Fiery Beast (on a Tuesday Afternoon) I unexpectedly got a chance to go on the Inside the Volcano tour. I figured the chance to go INSIDE a volcano is worth re-organizing your day, so I made a few quick calls, borrowed an anorak, a warm hat and mittens, and I was on my way!

It was a rainy and breezy day downtown as I walked down the hill from the booking agency to the Bus station. I arrived about 10 minutes early and the full bus pulled away a few minutes before the scheduled 14:00 departure. The ride out to Þríhnúkagígur took about 30 minutes, past green mossy fields and snowcovered mountains. Þríhnúkagígur is the only volcano in the world where you can go inside an empty magma chamber. Our guide explained that once a volcano stops erupting, the walls often cave in - transforming the volcano into a crater. We arrived at a kind of visitor’s centre, where we received a brief overview of the journey to the volcano. We would take a 3km walk to basecamp, which I would rather call a hike; though there was little change in elevation, on this particular (May) day, the snow was deep enough that my hiking boots were completely

covered! I was well dressed so I was alright, but I bet the guy with the shorts and flip-flops had some second thoughts on the way! We had the wind at our back on the way to the base camp at Þríhnúkagígur. Along the way, our guide Birgitta pointed out some pseudocraters, which are only found in Iceland and on planet Mars. The journey to the base of the volcano took about 45 minutes.

Once at basecamp, we had an opportunity to rest a bit and get a hot drink. They split us into groups of 3 or 4, and gave us helmets and harnesses for the short walk along the ridge, and subsequent descent into the volcano. We met up with more guides who I later discovered were seasoned mountain men, experts in determining if it’s safe to make the walk up to the volcano. We were told it was

some of the most extreme weather they’d ever done it in, but we never felt unsafe – clearly we were in good hands. The walk along the ridge was in nearly hurricane force winds that day. It was quite exhilarating as, instructed by our guides, we held hands and- with our back to the wind- slowly made our way up to the mouth of the volcano. They hooked our harnesses to lines on the metal bridge as we walked to the lift, then secured us to the lift itself. The lift made it way slowly down, squeezing through spaces so tight that you could touch the inside of the volcano. And then suddenly, we were hanging in the gaping void. It’s incredibly huge – taller than the Statue of Liberty – and the colors are amazing. Once we landed, we had a free range to wander inside the volcano for about 30 minutes. There were bright orange lines marking out where it was safe to walk but I didn’t feel restricted at all.

Even within those boundaries, it was wise to use a headlamp and step carefully as the ground is pretty uneven in a lot of places. I marveled at all the colors of the rocks- I expected browns and reds but not bright yellows, blues and greens! It’s surprisingly silent inside the volcano. Aside from the slight hum of the elevator running and the hushed whispers of my fellow travelers, the mountain really blocks out all outside sounds. The melted snow and rain was gently falling down into the volcano. The drops caught bits of light as they fell in what seemed like slowmotion- it was so beautiful. The photos really don’t do it justice, it’s hard to capture the sense of serenity and peace and I sat silently and let the fact that I was laying down inside this powerful (now dormant) beast of nature wash over me. It wasn’t bad for a Tuesday afternoon. Not bad at all.

I really recommend this experience for anyone interested in nature, geology, adventuring, mountaineering, or who just wants to do something unusual. As I mentioned previously, it’s the only place in the world where you can do this sort of thing – usually volcanos will collapse once they run out of magma, and if this kind of magma chamber exists anywhere else, there definitely isn’t a handy day tour to lower you into it by elevator. That being said, though it is efficient, it doesn’t at all feel inauthentic or particularly “touristy” - our guides were real mountaineers and everything felt there very close to nature – the trek over the mountains, the walk along the ridge, even being exposed to the elements, gave the whole thing a very outdoorsy, adventurous feel. In all it’s a great way to experience the unique, mountainous and rocky nature of Iceland, to get out of the city, and a truly magnificent way to spend a day.

TIPS

»» Take the weather into consideration. It can change quickly in Iceland and can be different on the mountains than it is in the city. »» Bring sunglasses. Whether it’s a surprise or not, Iceland is bright! »» Dress well and wear comfortable shoes. »» Bring an extra pair of socks in case your feet get wet.

When inside the volcano, put away your camera or phone for a while and just enjoy it!

You can book your Inside the Volcano Tour at insidethevolcano.is, the nearest Tourist Information or your hotel lobby!

ON: Meet Mother Nature at her Fiercest

The first thing you notice when you drive up to Hellisheiði, a hilly area just outside of the city limits, is the ever-present smell of sulphur, reminiscent of rotten eggs. The smell is a mild but a constant reminder that just below your feet is an inferno of geothermal heat, which ON Power utilises to pump out cheap and environmentally friendly heat and electricity for more than half of the nation. Their largest geothermal plant at Hellisheiði, situated in the geothermally active Hengill area, is state of the art and open every day to visitors who want to learn more about Iceland’s geothermal energy! Making use of the Mid-Atlantic ridge Iceland’s geology is a unique and powerful thing and despite the occasional volcanic eruption stopping air traffic (we’re sorry about Eyjafjallajökull), Icelanders have managed to harness its energy for the benefit of the entire nation, thanks to companies such as ON Power. ON Power produces electricity, originating in geothermal energy, for more than half of the Icelandic population. Drilling into the ground to access the 300°C(572°F) hot water, the enormous machines at Hellisheiði are ingeniously crafted to utilise as much of the energy that water provides as possible. Every step of the process, from when the water is pumped up for the first time to the point when it arrives to the citizens of Reykjavík in the form of heat and energy, is meticulously thought out.

Icelandic geology in 70 words or less

Iceland is situated on the boundaries between the American and Eurasian tectonic plates, which move away from one another at roughly 2 cm (nearly an inch) per year. It’s also sitting on a mantle plume, or a geological hot spot, similar to the one that created the Hawaii Islands. This results in an excess of volcanic activity and earthquakes as well as an abundance of geothermal power.

Did you know, for example, that excess hot water in Reykjavík is used to heat up streets and paths around the city, making them safer to walk during icy winters? Get energized! The Geothermal Exhibition is only a 20-minute drive from Reykjavík and open every day. It’s the only geothermal power plant in the world where you can come so close to the action and see the machines in operation, constantly working to harness the immense power of mother earth to make life easier for the people of Reykjavík. In addition to seeing the powerful (literally) machines, the exhibition shows you how Iceland’s geology and geothermal power work. You can even hear the rumblings of some of the biggest earthquakes Iceland’s had in the past years! Take a hike! … Around hot springs, rivers and beautiful lakes A visit to the exhibition gives you a sense of the power contained by Iceland’s nature. If you want to get a better look at it, the surrounding Hengill area is incredibly beautiful, with hot springs, craters, rivers and lakes. No wonder it’s so popular among locals! The Geothermal Exhibition is located at Hellisheiði, about 20 minutes outside of Reykjavík. You can book a tour with Reykjavík Excursions!

Did you know?

»» Renewable power sources account for more than 70% of the total primary energy consumption in Iceland, far higher than anywhere else in the world! »» The Hengill area is among the most extensive geothermal areas in Iceland, with at least three volcanic eruptions having occurred in the area in the last 11,000 years, the most recent one being 2,000 years ago. »» Hellisheiði Power Plant’s production capacity is 303 MW of electricity and 133 MW of thermal energy. »» In fact, the energy production is so great that the thermal energy capacity could easily be increased by 300MW! That’s enough to power 135.000 blow-dryers running at once or 6 million 50-inch LED TVs!

ON Power - Geothermal Exhibition Hellisheiðarvirkjun +354 591 2880 www.geothermalexhibition.com

Welcome to Jómfrúin, the home of Danish smørrebrød in Reykjavik. It all began in 1888 with Oscars Davidsen’s highly praised smørrebrød restaurant in Copenhagen. An unbroken tradition of quality and Danish culinary culture for the past 100 years. Enjoy! Open every day 11:00 - 22:00 | Lækjargata 4 | 101 Reykjavík | jomfruin.is

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“ZOMG REYKJAVIK HAS A BIG LEBOWSKITHEMED BAR!” Tweeted by @caitlinmoran Journalist for The Times, author, and broadcaster. Followers: 778K Ever seen the 1998 cult classic “The Big Lebowski” by the Coen brothers? Of course, you have! Everybody has. For those of you unfamiliar with the concept, first of all, go watch it, right now. When you’ve done that, you’ll know that it involves Jeff Bridges as the “Dude” Lebowski, who, because of a case of mistaken identity is on a mission to seek reimbursement for a ruined rug and enlists his bowling buddies to help him. In Reykjavík, we have a bar based on the concept. Yeah, well. The Dude abides. Lebowski Bar, on Laugavegur, opened in 2012 and was immediately a huge hit. The general idea was to combine a bar with a diner styled grill, furnished in the style of The Big Lebowski.

That rug really tied the room together The location of Lebowski Bar, along with its brilliant concept design, is a big contributor to its success. Laugavegur is the main shopping and bar-hopping street in Reykjavik. Virtually everybody goes there at one time or another, both locals and visitors. Lebowski Bar has through its location been both frequented by regulars and attended by passers-by and foreign visitors equally.

Lebowski bar has a host of events and activities, such as DJ’s and live performances, quiz nights, and every major game and sporting event on the Big Screen. The bar can serve up to 300 people with food and drink in four dining areas, so every individual or group can be seated comfortably. Their diner-inspired menu offers a variety of Lebowski burgers and milkshakes, such as the classic “The Other Lebowski” (Steak Burger), the more health-conscious “Bunny Lebowski” (Chicken Burger with Blue Cheese sauce) or “The Nihilist” (BBQ Chicken Wings). The crown jewel of the whole establishment, however, is definitely the White Russian Menu, made up purely of Vodka and Kahlua-based cocktails. If the cream-based cocktail isn’t your thing, they’ve been adding to their bottled artisan beer menu, as well as their selection of whiskeys.

I checked out Lebowski bar on a Thursday night. I had been there several times before on a weekend, but as these former visits mostly consisted of arriving tipsy and leaving drunk, I never wrote any reviews (although I should highly commend the bar staff for great cocktails) so I decided to behave like an adult, see the band that was playing that evening and have a beer. Having shown up early I got a seat between the bar and the band. Starting with a Tuborg Classic draft, I waited for the band to play their tunes and boy, was I in for a treat. The young keyboard player (a 19-year-old prodigy) started the night off with Booker T & MG’s Green Onions, followed by the guitar player serving ZZ Top’s La Grange with a twist. Needless to say, people could barely sit still in their seats. By the time I saw the bottom of that Tuborg draft

glass, people were dancing to The Doors and my instinct told me to pick up a White Russian for me and my date, who had been talking to some EVE online game conference guests as I made notes in my head about the brilliant atmosphere. Hey, careful, man, there’s a beverage here! Among the previously named EVE Online conference guests, I spotted a pair of Icelandic actresses, having what I can only imagine being a glass of milk (as opposed to heavy cream and vodka) considering their itsy bitsy waistlines. Also present was an Icelandic MMA fighter (the only one we have come to think about it) and a group of college students who looked like they were really enjoying the music. The atmosphere in Lebowski Bar does not ask for age, gender, if you are wearing a watch or if you like bowling at all. It only asks that you loosen up, have a beverage or two and maybe a burger. Most important is that you have fun. Walking out of the front door I wondered how on earth such a wide group of people could find themselves sitting down and having such fun in the same place. But if the Dude abides, so should we. Lebowski Bar Laugavegur 20a, 101 Reykjavík +354 552 2300 | www.lebowski.is

Iceland’s leading magazine in English since 1963.

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A Dining Experience Under a Bridge You might have heard tales of trolls living under bridges, but the Icelandic story of a luxurious gourmet meal under a bridge is less well known. One of the best seafood restaurants in town, Fiskfélagið or the Fish Company, was described as such by one of their first customers as he contentedly pushed his last plate away. The Fish Company is located in one of the oldest houses in Reykjavik, commonly known as the Zimsen building. It dates back to 1884 and was originally situated in Hafnarstræti, a few hundred metres east of its current location. After being completely renovated and moved to its current location in Grófartorg, Fiskfélagið took up residence in the cellar, underneath the bridge by the side of the building. During the groundwork stages of the Grófartorg reconstruction area, excavation revealed the remains of the older harbour. That has now been

incorporated into “The Tides,” a work of art by Hjörleifur Stefánsson developed in collaboration with Minjavernd Heritage Trust. This gives the area a unique atmosphere that gets accentuated even further as the tide rolls in and out of the artwork simultaneously to the tide in the current harbour. The menu features delicious Icelandic seafood but there’s a twist. The menu is designed to take you on a journey. The Fish Company menu takes you on a trip around the world, with top class marine cuisine melding together themes from Japan, France, Sweden, Fiji, Ireland, Tahiti and the USA to

name few. Dining at this restaurant is dining at its finest in Reykjavik. This is a restaurant that you can always count on to make your evening something to remember. The food’s great, the atmosphere is unique and the wonderful surroundings of this beautifully renovated old house ensure that whether you’re having lunch or dinner, it’s always going to be a treat!

The Fish Company Vesturgata 2a, 101 Reykjavík +354 552 5300 | www.fiskfelagid.is

Just Relax! A Visit to Krauma Geothermal Baths

Driving in the Borgarfjörður area on a sunny day is a great feeling. On one hand is the milky blue water of the Hvítá river and on the other, the majestic blue mountains. It’s only a little over an hour’s drive away from the city, but it already feels like you’re in another dimension. On this particular sunny day, I’m feeling exceptionally great, since my task for the day is to inspect the brand spanking new Krauma geothermal spa. I’ve had worse jobs... Geothermal power Krauma just opened this winter, a stone’s throw away from Deildartunguhver hot spring. The hot spring in question is one of Europe’s most powerful, spewing boiling hot water at a rate of around 180 litres per second! You can spot Deildartunguhver from the wisps of steam rising from the hot spring. My companion for the day and I parked our car by the path leading up to Krauma. Before we entered the spa facility, we paid the hot spring a visit. It won’t look like much on your Instagram photos but the experience of standing by the hot spring is one to remember. You feel the hot steam on your face, smell the sulphurous air, and see the boiling water force its way out of the rock, bubbling furiously. Natural luxury After admiring the spectacle of Deildartunguhver, it was time for the main event, Krauma spa! Walking in, we were greeted by a sort of understated Nordic elegance. Everything, including staff, looks stylish but laid-back. There’s no extravagance in the decor and the changing rooms, but as Scandinavian style so often showcases, you don’t need extravagance to convey luxury! The changing rooms have everything you need, and every little detail 74

is thought of. They even offer shampoo and shower gel from Sóley Organics, made from wild Icelandic herbs. The geothermal bath area consists of six baths of varying temperatures, ranging from a bracing 5°C (41°F) to so hot you can’t stay in there for more than a few minutes. In between are both a shallow and a deeper pool of luxurious temperatures, perfect for a blissful soak, while breathing in fresh air and admiring the gorgeous mountain view. You can even order a drink, delivered right to the edge of the bath! In the land of fire and ice… The water from Deildartunguhver is very hot, close to boiling. In order for it to reach the perfect temperature, they blend it with spring water from a source in Ok mountain. Despite the name, the mountain is a lot more than just OK, in fact, the name is Icelandic for yoke or pressure and is pronounced like it rhymes with talk. Ok used to be one of Iceland’s smallest glaciers but has been downgraded to a snowy mountain recently. It’s still plenty cold up there and the icy clear water is perfect to mix the ideal temperature of bathwater.

After soaking in the baths for a while, we tried out the steam rooms. The steam is created by spraying water from the hot springs under timber benches located in the steam baths. There are two separate rooms with varying temperatures, but both were hot enough to get my blood running a lot faster! In between visits to the steam baths, my sister liked to take a dip in the cold bath, as apparently, the temperature extremes are great for your health. I preferred the relaxation room myself, where soothing music and a crackling fireplace quickly lowered my stress levels. As we emerged from the luxurious waters of Krauma, my mind and body felt completely relaxed and at ease with the nature around us. My only regret was that we didn’t have time to sample the food at the adjoining restaurant, mostly made from ingredients farmed in the surrounding area. Oh well, guess I’ll just have to go back soon.

Krauma Deildartunguhver, 320 Reykholt +354 555 6066 | www.krauma.is

THE HOME OF ICELANDIC SEAFOOD AND LAMB APOTEK Kitchen+Bar is a casual-smart restaurant located in one of Reykjavíks most historical buildings. We specialize in fresh seafood, lamb and local ingredients prepared with a modern twist. OPEN 11:30–23:30 Mondays – Thursdays 11:30–00:00 Fridays and Saturdays 12:00–23:00 Sundays APOTEK KITCHEN+BAR

Austurstræti 16

101 Reykjavík

apotek.is

LOCAL FOOD AND BEER Tasty and fun food made with fresh and local Icelandic ingredients. We offer a unique selection of Icelandic beer– 20 bottled, 10 on draft, and artisan cocktails to enjoy alongside the food.

ICELANDIC GASTROPUB

Open 11:30–23:30

Drop by for lunch, late lunch, dinner or drinks in a casual and fun atmosphere.

Hafnarstræti 1–3 / Tel. 555 2900 / saetasvinid.is

No need to go hungry around Iceland

Safe Travels Driving

Watch out for sheep! In rural areas, there aren't necessarily fences blocking sheep from the road. They'll probably run off the road as you approch but be careful, especially if a mother and her lambs are on separate sides of the road. Get some rest! In summer, the midnight sun will make the days seem longer, almost eliminating the need for sleep. Be sure to get your rest, though, a tired driver can be more dangerous than a drunk one. You gotta wear shades Speaking of the midnight sun, in the evening it sits low in the sky, shining straight into your eyes when driving in some directions. Now's your chance to wear sunglasses at night.

Be prepared for gravel roads! As you get farther away from ReykjavĂk, the more likely it is that you'll have to drive on some gravel roads. The speed limit for these roads is lower and you need to take more care while driving. Consult your car rental company if your car is insured for driving gravel roads. Drive like Goldilocks Not too fast, not too slow â&#x20AC;&#x201C; just right. Driving too fast is dangerous for obvious reasons but driving too slow can be dangerous too. Try to match your speed with the traffic, if you want to admire the view, just stop at the frequent view stops.

Be prepared! If you're going far from the city, make sure to always keep your gas tank at least half full, since gas stations might be few and far between. Stick to the road! Off-road driving is completely forbidden. Not only does it damage Iceland's fragile nature, it's also subject to heavy fines. Also, a rental car is probably not insured for the damage you'll cause to the other car. Respect road closures! If the road is closed, there's a good reason for it, there's danger ahead. Do not, under any circumstances, ignore road closures.

Don't stop! in the middle of the road that is. We know that the landscapes are gorgeous and that it seems like you're the only person on the road, but you're not. Stopping in the middle of the road to take pictures is extremely dangerous, so make sure to find a parking spot along the road before you start snapping photos. Most of the best viewpoints have a parking spot for that specific purpose! 77

Doâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ts Do stick to paths where possible. It's safer for you as well as nature. Don't camp outside of designated campsites. Wild camping is strictly forbidden. Do respect signs and closures. Mostly, authorities expect visitors to keep their wits about them when travelling. If they've made the effort to put up a sign, there's a reason. Don't build cairns. Cairns used to be signposts, marking routes across mountains. Although mostly obsolete, false cairns are never a good idea. Do be respectful. Try to leave every place you visited the same as it was when you arrived. For more information, check www.safetravel.is

Hiking Check the forecast! The most important thing to remember if you're going hiking is to check the weather forecast and plan accordingly. Even during summer, the Icelandic highlands can experience some extreme weather. Dress for the occasion! Good shoes are important, especially if you're going for longer hikes. You also need plenty of warm clothes, even during the height of summer. Think layers! Make plans! Map out your route, and if you're taking longer hikes, your accommodation and food. Iceland's interior is almost entirely uninhabited so you'll have to bring everything you'll need. Plan reasonable distances for your fitness level. Let someone know! Leave your travel plans with someone who can react if something happens. You can also leave your travel plans with www.safetravel.is or rent an emergency PLB (personal location beacon). Know where you're going! Bring a map, a compass and a GPS to help you navigate. A phone with a good battery can save you from getting lost. 78

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Pier Beer

In the bustling Grandi area, Bryggjan Brugghús has quickly carved out a spot as the place to be for beer enthusiasts in Iceland. Founded in 2015, the spacious bistro slash brewery houses its own microbrewery, offering an endless array of fresh Icelandic microbrews. The addition of Bryggjan to the Reykjavík bar flora was most welcome, as it not only offers scrumptious brews but also sports a menu focused on fresh, Icelandic ingredients. What’s special about Bryggjan is the beer – as soon as you walk in, the whole of the brewery can be seen, right next to the bar. If you want to catch some Icelandic artists, Bryggjan is a great concert venue as well, featuring everything from up and coming bands to veterans of the Icelandic music scene. It’s a special feeling sitting down at a concert with a carefully crafted session IPA, with the brewing materials gleaming right next to you. Everyone is sure to find something of their taste as Bryggjan has everything from a carefully crafted special in-house pilsner, to ales of every colour, to a German Hefeweizen or an imperial stout.

Grandi – the old harbour Bryggjan is part of the recent renovation of Grandi, which has breathed life into the now hip Grandi harbour area. It has undergone a transformation from an industrial area to a melting pot of arts, local cuisine and most importantly, heaps of people. Grandi offers a great variety of things to do, and there is no better way to end a long day with a New England IPA. The view over the Reykjavík harbour, including the Harpa concert hall, is the perfect backdrop to enjoy fresh seafood at the outside seating platform at Bryggjan – a rarity in Reykjavík, truth be told. From brews to mussels One of the best ways to get an introduction to Icelandic brewing is hopping onto the Bryggjan Beer Academy tour. The brewers themselves host the tour which is topped off with a selection of Bryggjan’s finest. It’s the only Brewery tour in the downtown area, and they offer fresh brews straight from the cow, so to speak. Afterwards, you can enjoy their delicious slow-cooked chicken wings and beer-cooked blue mussels. For beer lovers, and we know many of you are, this is a must-do in Reykjavík. Bryggjan Brugghús Grandagarður 8, 101 Reykjavík +354 456 4040 | www.bryggjanbrugghus.is

What do you need to brew a beer? The basic ingredients needed for brewing are water, fermented sugar, hops and yeast. The specialist brewers at Bryggjan are walking beer encyclopaedias, so they’ll answer every question you have. Having said that, we can assure you that the Icelandic water proves for some exquisitely tasty beers. Since water makes up over 90% of beers, you’re in for a good ride.

What to Expect in an Icelandic Swimming Pool

Every country has traditions when it comes to leisure. In our part of the world said traditions tend to evolve around keeping warm. Finland has saunas, Russia has vodka, Iceland has swimming pools. Almost all towns in Iceland, as well as several countryside municipalities, have a swimming pool. These are communal places, where people from all walks of life get together to spend time at the pool, whether they prefer to get their pulse up by swimming, relax in the soothing water or socialise in the hot tubs. There are 17 swimming pools in the capital area and if you have the time, you should try them all! The hot tubs It all started with the hot tubs. They have literally been part of Iceland since the settlement. The most famous one is Snorri Sturluson’s pool, Snorralaug in Reykholt. Sturluson is presumed to have lived from 1178-1241 and his pool is one of four ancient pools in Iceland still in use. Today, there are around 12 000 summerhouses in Iceland – I will tread carefully and say that at least 11 000 of them have a hot tub. There is a hot tub outside half the houses in my neighbourhood and most of the hotels in Reykjavík have a spa with a hot tub, so you really have to make an effort if you plan to avoid them. Almost every swimming pool in Iceland makes good use of the plentiful geothermal water and has a hot tub or five to keep the patrons warm and cosy, even on the darkest of winter nights. The chatter It goes without saying that swimming and unwinding in warm geothermal water on a regular basis is good for both body and soul. What is even more wonderful regarding these blessed pools of ours is their role as social centres. All over the country, people gather regularly in the hot tubs to catch up on the latest gossip, political scandals and weather forecasts. There are even people who show up every day at the same time, hang their clothes on the 82

same hook to have their daily hot tub chat with the same coswimmers they meet there every day. The earliest of the bunch are sometimes called “the doorknobs”, because they tend to be already clasping the knob when the swimming pool staff shows up for work, still yawning and stretching. In the afternoon and evening, the chatter begins again, but the crowd is different, parents having quality time with their kids, people relaxing after work or workout and youngsters dating. Yes, dating. Going for a nice soak in a hot tub in the evening is a well-liked second date in Iceland. The swimming pools of Iceland are universal and people of all ages, from the newborn (baby swimming is very popular here) to centenarians who like to keep active in warm waters. The facilities You will find more outdoor than indoor pools in Iceland. The reason is simple; the outdoor ones are less expensive. Which is fine, the fresh air is good for you. And there is nothing like having a swim and a hot tub during a blizzard, please do if you possibly can. Many pools have, to add to the goose bumps, outdoor dressing rooms. Drying up after a swim and a hot tub on a winter evening in -5°C is one of the most refreshing experiences you will encounter. And don’t be scared of the cold, outdoor dressing rooms in

Icelandic swimming pools are (usually) equipped with heat lamps to keep you warm. The exposure Before people take a dip in our luxurious swimming pools, they need to wash, thoroughly. It makes all the sense in the world, bathing in other people’s filth hardly seems like a pleasant experience. This brings us to the communal showers. Every single person in Iceland has been doing this since before they can remember, so showering with other people of their gender is about as uneventful as eating lunch, but we’ve recently figured out that in some countries it’s not such a regular occurrence. Trust me when I tell you that it should be no big deal; after all, everyone is in the same boat and there are going to be bodies of all shapes and sizes there, but if you do feel uncomfortable about it, some pools have privacy cubicles, just enquire about them before you get in. You can find the opening hours of most swimming pools in Iceland on www.sundlaugar. is. The norm on workdays is that they open 07:00ish in the morning and close some time after dinner, but as with any norm, there are exceptions. If you don’t have a swimsuit you can usually rent one so what are you waiting for? Get swimming!

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A Day in Hafnarfjörður Situated in the middle of a lava field, the small town of Hafnarfjörður is the perfect getaway from Reykjavík. It’s a lovely place to spend the day, with its vibrant town centre and beautiful culture. Hafnarfjörður is a hidden gem, containing some of the best experiences that Iceland has to offer – fresh local cuisine, great geothermal pools, lava and stunning natural phenomena, a boatload of activities as well as hosting a yearly Viking festival! It is the third largest town in Iceland with 30,000 people, and it’s only twenty minutes away from the Reykjavík city centre. Bus no 1 will also take you straight to Hafnarfjörður. First and foremost, Hafnarfjörður offers a chance to experience the local lifestyle of Icelanders. Do as the locals do! 84

A lively town centre A great way to start the day is a stroll along the Hafnarfjörður river, simply known as Lækurinn (the Stream). The path along the Stream is especially popular with families as the kids get to experience the lively birdlife. Head towards the beautiful harbour area, teeming with life in the summertime. It makes sense that Hafnarfjörður is known for the port as Hafnarfjörður translates to Harbour Fjord. The harbour is home to the lively local arts culture, with studios and galleries right next to industrial fishing areas. The main shopping area is Strandgata, often called the heart of Hafnarfjörður. It’s a charming street with colourful old buildings filled with small boutiques and galleries – perfect for buying

a local souvenir from a friendly shopowner. Hafnarfjörður is also home to Fjörður mall, offering a variety of shops and services. Necessary nourishment Hafnarfjörður has a lively culinary scene that’s growing every day. If you feel like breakfast, why not stop by one of the superb bakeries or cafés in town. For lunch, Hafnarfjörður has a plethora of great restaurants serving delicious food and if you want to go for a nice dinner, the town centre or the harbour area has some great options. If you just need a quick bite before heading off for your next adventure, Hafnarfjörður also has plenty of fast food restaurants where you can get some indulgent treats.

Exercise with the elves Hafnarfjörður is surrounded by natural beauty on all sides, hugged by mountains, lava fields and the seemingly endless North Atlantic Ocean. Close by the town centre is the beautiful Hellisgerði park which, according to local folklore, is populated by elves. It’s a charming park full of small caves where you can get to know the Icelandic flora. In the park you’ll find the Little Elf store, which sells Icelandic design focused on local folklore. Hellisgerði is perfect for family picnics, and the Little Elf store will even lend you a blanket and basket for a picnic! Idyllic lake Hvaleyrarvatn, surrounded by lush nature and grey lava fields, is worth a visit as

well, with its numerous trails as well as on-site public barbecue facilities. Closer to home is the dominating Hamarinn cliff, a protected natural site overlooking the harbour area. You’ll see plenty of Hafnfirðingar, as the residents of Hafnarfjörður are called, out and about on these walking routes. If you’re interested in another type of outdoor activity, horseback riding comes highly recommended. The Icelandic horse is small and friendly, perfect for beginners as well as experienced riders. Taking a ride through the lava fields of Hafnarfjörður lets you experience Iceland much like the first settlers of Iceland did.

Get a taste of the local culture The best way to discover the history and culture of Hafnarfjörður is to visit the museums in town. To learn about the history of the region, stop by the Hafnarfjörður Museum. Spread across six buildings, the exhibitions will take you on a journey through the town’s rich heritage. Art lovers should also check out the Hafnarborg - Center of Culture and Fine Art Museum, which hosts a variety of exhibitions and events. Both of the museums are free of charge! If you want to get in touch with the Hafnarfjörður lifestyle, why not stop by a concert at Bæjarbíó or visit one of the local swimming pools, where locals get together to relax and have a chat. Hafnarfjörður is home to three excellent pools, so be sure to take a dip! 85

The Light of Our Lives Iceland, silly as the name can seem during the summer months, was named so for a reason. In the old days, before electricity and heating, when the cold and dark could be fatal, self-preservation and innovation were the keys to surviving. It is a wonderful thing that one of the best-known brands in Icelandic export is a product that has helped the Icelandic nation survive since the settlement. It’s a fish oil product called Lýsi and we are so proud of it. A necessity through the ages The Norwegian settlers of Iceland brought with them the knowledge of how to make Lýsi. They extrexted it from whales, sharks, fish, seals and even birds and used it as fuel for light, to soften and protect the clothing of seafarers and as a nutritional supplement for both humans and animals. For a time, it was even used as currency, as sources from as far back as 1096 state that church taxes in Iceland were paid in the form of this life-saving, smelly liquid. The name “Lýsi” comes from the product having been used as lamp oil, in Icelandic, the verb “lýsa“ means “to illuminate“. Living this close to the Arctic Circle means that winter nights are long and dark, so one can only imagine how precious it must have been to be able to have light in the house. Add to that Lýsi’s nutritional value - it’s a valuable source of vitamins A and D (in a country where the sun is absent most of the time and low in the sky when it does show its face) - and it becomes an understatement to say that Lýsi has had a real impact on survival in this country.

The method of processing Lýsi from the liver in the old days was, in the simplest terms I can think of, something like this: They dug a hole, put the liver in the hole and waited for the oil to squirt out. Hardly a developed technology, but nevertheless, Lýsi was the biggest export product of Iceland as early as the 14th century, along with dried fish and woollen cloth. The beginning In 1938, a man named Tryggvi Ólafsson founded a production and export company, simply named Lysi. By that time, he was an expert, having spent the decade before trading and experimenting with Lýsi, first in a small lab he prepared in his home. When he founded LYSI, the company was considered a pioneer in the production of marine lipids and later became a global leader in the field. The company’s research has been ongoing for decades and today LYSI is at the world forefront of research and product development. Tryggvi had a seat on the board until he was 96 years old and it wasn’t until 1981 that the first non-family member became president of the

company. In 1999 the company was reclaimed by the family and has been run by Katrín Pétursdóttir, the granddaughter of Tryggvi Ólafsson, and her family ever since. In April 2007, LYSI was awarded the President of Iceland’s Award for Export Achievement for its “unique achievement in the sales and marketing of marine lipid products and for the vision the company demonstrates in product development and for the build-up of knowledge and expertise in its field.” …the rest is history Every child in Iceland knows that there is no way of growing up to be big and strong without having a spoonful of Lýsi with breakfast every day. They have no idea what Omega-3 and vitamins A and D do for them but it’s is a tradition. This is what mummy and daddy raise them to do because their parents told them to and that has been the way of things in this country for hundreds of years. But the LYSI product line has more to offer than just classic cod liver oil in a glass bottle. The company now has various production lines, including shark liver oil, omega-3 fish oil, and various blister pack products where in addition to the Lýsi itself, you get vitamins and minerals as well. Still, the majority of the company’s turnover comes from a tradition of 700 years, exporting cod liver oil in bulk. And in a country consumed with nostalgia, you can just begin to imagine how loving and respecting LYSI is branded into our dark-enduring, hard-working Icelandic soul.

HAPPY HOUR EVERY DAY 16:00-19:00

Golfing in the Midnight Sun Keilir

Grass is pretty much the only thing in Iceland which grows in abundance and we do get our fair share of rain. Iceland is therefore the perfect breeding ground for golf courses, much like golfing countries such as Ireland and the United Kingdom. However, there are not many places in this world that offer the spectacle of midnight golf, a joy any golf enthusiast has to try at least once in his life. The near 24 hours of sunlight in the summer months of June and July allows golfers from around the world to experience this phenomenon. One thing’s for sure – there’s an astounding number of golfers in Iceland as 4.9% of the nation are registered golfers. You will find courses situated in the most picturesque parts of the country, and more often than not they are surrounded by untouched wildlife. Iceland is becoming a more visited golfing situation as its courses offer a chance to experience astounding nature while teeing off on pristine courses.

At What's On, you can get help with arranging everything you need to go golfing in the midnight sun in Iceland. What's On - Information and Booking Centre Laugavegur 3, Downtown Reykjavík info@whatson.is - www.whatson.is 88

Oddur Far from the noise of the city, Oddur Golf Club is one of the gems in the flora of Icelandic golf courses, surrounded by the beautiful valley area of Urriðavatnsdalir. Playing the course is a unique experience, as it's surrounded by beautiful nature on all sides. A heathland course brimming with birdlife, it's flanked by a lava field from the now dormant volcano Búrfell. Urriðavöllur, the main course, is one of the few 18-hole golf courses in Iceland, somewhat of a rarity with this young golfing nation. A challenging par 71, Urriðavöllur amounts to a challenging 5900 metres. Opened in 1997, it is recognised as one of the finest courses in the country, having been honoured with hosting multiple Icelandic championships as well as the European Ladies Team Championship in 2016. Oddur Golf Club also sports an easier-going nine-hole practice course named Ljúflingur (Beloved course), for those looking for a nice day out. The Oddur clubhouse, overlooking the 18th hole, is where you’ll find your fill of snacks and full meals – as well as local Icelandic brews after the round. Oddur Golf Club is inclusive and welcomes golfers of all ages and genders, even boasting the highest ratio of female club members in Iceland – 40%. Only a short 20-minute drive away from the city centre, Oddur is the perfect getaway from the city for some golf in the midnight sun. Contact Oddur, afgreidsla@oddur.is | +354 565 9092

Oddur

The midnight sun

Brautarholt

Brautarholt Brautarholt Golf Course offers a spectacular view of the cold beauty of the North Atlantic, overlooking the Reykjavík cityscape. It will challenge any golf course in the world in terms of dramatic landscape. Situated in nearby Garðabær, Brautarholt is an ambitious course with lush fairways and clean greens which golfers of all skill levels can enjoy. Like many courses in Iceland, Brautarholt is close to bird breeding grounds. Although golf and birds seem a clash at first, the course at Brautarholt is designed to disturb the rich birdlife around it as little as possible by leaving ample space around the fairways. The birds haven’t been taught golfing etiquette yet though, so they’ll be the only thing to distract you while trying to sink that put for a birdie. The spectacular shoreline is the perfect backdrop to enjoy midnight golf in this challenging 12-hole course, which was designed to flow perfectly with the natural surroundings. Clifftop waterfronts and sandy beaches surround the course as the integrity of the site was placed above any preconceived notions of hole sequences, yardage or par. Brautarholt is only a short 30-minute drive away from the Reykjavík city centre. They offer a pick-up service to and from travellers’ hotels to ensure the smoothest ride possible, as well as a rental for gears.

Keilir Keilir Golf Course is one of the top-ranked golf courses in Iceland, increasingly drawing attention from international guests. It’s an 18-hole links golf course in Hafnarfjörður, a small town that’s just a 15-minute drive from downtown Reykjavík. The design of the course takes into consideration the unique Icelandic landscape, following the curves and contours of the land. There is a vast difference between the front nine and the back nine. The front nine are surrounded by ruffled lavafields, while the back nine are on a small peninsula by Hafnarfjörður harbour, with spectacular views of Snæfellsjökull glacier and the Álftanes peninsula.

Contact Brautarholt, gbr@gbr.is - +354 566 6045

Contact Keilir, budin@keilir.is - +354 565 3360

When playing the Keilir Golf Course, you need to adjust your game to the challenges of the course. Focusing on skill and accuracy will take you farther than power and distance, particularly when dealing with the lava field in the front nine! Take your time to consider your game, it pays off! The toughest hole on the card is the 14th hole played over a small bay. Your drive must be accurate and have some distance to make it to the fairway. The course accommodates both beginners and advanced golfers. Last year the club opened three new holes on the back nine which puts more coastline into play. Keilir is a golf course not to be missed!

1–5 hour day tours for beginners to experienced riders. In stunning nature only 15 minutes from Reykjavik!

We are here Lat.: 64.043289 Long.: -21.914219 Sörlaskeið 26 Hafnarfjörður

Reykjavík

Hafnarfjörður

www.ishestar.is 555 7000

SÓLEY ORGANICS WILD

POWERFUL

PURE

Throughout the years, people have relied on herbal medicine to cure what ails them. While it’s perhaps no match for modern medical sciences when it comes to serious illnesses and injuries, the accumulated wisdom of herbalists throughout the ages can work wonders for everyday life’s little aches and irritations. Soley Organics is a natural and organic skincare brand, made in Iceland using renewable energy, and the recipes are based on the wisdom of generations of herbalists. The herbs for Sóley’s products are handpicked in the Icelandic nature during the short but sweet Icelandic summers by Sóley, her family, and friends. These herbs are then blended with certified organic vegetable or essential oils and pure Icelandic water, resulting in gentle but effective products. The first product, Græðir healing balm, was based on a centuries old family recipe that is the base of, and inspired the whole product range. Ever since the beginning, Sóley’s products have received a warm welcome, both in Iceland and outside its shores. It’s no wonder really; they promise organic luxury and they deliver!

The Herbs Birch Birch is the only tree that’s native to Iceland – and it’s also the most common tree you’ll see in Iceland. Birch contains Betulin, which will clam inflammations, tone pores, and help wounds heal, as well as several antioxidants. Birch is supposed to be especially effective to make hair thick shiny and healthy, which is why it’s the main ingredient in Sóley’s BIRKIR shampoo! Yarrow Yarrow is one of the oldest known medicinal plants, being used for that purpose at least since Ancient Greece. It has a reputation as a panacea and is especially supposed to heal damaged skin quickly and cleanly. Icelandic yarrow is especially potent and has been used for healing purposes since Viking times. SÓLEY’s products contain yarrow for its calming and healing properties. It should also help keep your skin looking lovely and your hair healthy.

Willow Willow bark contains the natural form of aspirin and was even recommended by Hippocrates, the father of modern medicine. While Hippocrates wasn’t too bothered with the plants uses for skincare, willow does contain salicin which our bodies metabolise into salicylic acid, a widely used ingredient in skincare products. It speeds up the skin’s natural process of getting rid of dead cells and growing new ones, leading to healthier skin.

Bearberries Bearberries are not only, as the name suggests, popular food for bears (in other countries, Iceland doesn’t have bears), but also an herb with a long history of medicinal use, both inside the body and out. It’s safe and effective way to support and nourish the skin. Bearberries act as a skin brightener, naturally illuminating your skin.

You will come across Soley in many of Iceland's premium hotels, spas and guesthouses, as well as many Health & lifestyle stores and pharmacies around the country Sóley Organics Bæjarhraun 10, 220 Hafnafjörður +354 555 2222 | www.soleyorganics.com 91

7 Things You Didn't Know About the Puffin The puffin, with his colourful beak and comical strut has proven popular with visitors to Iceland. Iceland has some of the largest colonies of Atlantic puffin in the world so if you’re a bird enthusiast in Iceland for the summer, consider taking a tour to sail out and see these curious creatures with your own eyes. They mate for life Puffins uphold the bird version of conservative family values; they mate for life, raise their single puffling over the course of the summer and return every year to their same nesthole. They’re easy prey for predators on land, which is why they usually nest on islands Predators like foxes, weasels, cats and dogs don’t reach them on the islands around Iceland or out at sea during the wintertime. Actually, the puffins’ most threatening natural predator is homo sapiens. Puffin is still hunted for food and eaten, fresh or smoked. If you're curious to try it, many restaurants in Reykjavík serve puffin. They’re great swimmers, but clumsy flyers Puffins are graceful on the water, swimming and diving for fish in smooth, natural motions. In the air, however, they look like they’re ready to fall out of the sky at any moment, flying with jerking motions and crash-landing. 92

They spend most of their life at sea The puffins are pelagic birds which means that they spend more than half the year far out at sea. They are well suited to life on the sea and mostly eat fish. They only return to their holes to breed from April to August. They dig holes instead of making nests, which sometimes can be up to a metre deep! Puffins are seabirds and tend to live where trees don’t. They dig holes instead of making nests, up to a metre deep. They sometimes even use old rabbit holes if there are any rabbits in the area. Their beaks are impressive The multic-coloured beaks that the puffins sport for the mating seasons have, in some parts of the world, earned them the nickname of sea parrot or even sea clown. In Iceland they have a more dignified moniker, they 're called provosts because their pompous manner and walk reminds people of senior church officials.

They’re not our national bird That honour belongs to the infinitely more graceful, if less likable, gyrfalcon. For a while the falcon was even represented in the national crest. The national order of Iceland, awarded by the president is the Order of the Falcon.

ALL THE ICELANDIC BEERS IN ONE AWESOME PLACE

Learn Icelandic

A few helpful words and phrases IN CASE OF EMERGENCIES

NUMBERS 1 Einn (Itn)

5 Fimm (feem)

9 Níu (nee-uh)

2 Tveir (tway-r)

6 Sex (sek-hs)

10 Tíu (tee-uh)

3 Þrír (threer)

7 Sjö (syuh)

100 Hundrað (hunt-wrath)

4 Fjórir (fyoh-rear)

8 Átta (out-tah)

1000 Þúsund (thoo-sunt)

Help hjálp (hyowlp) Stop it hættu (height-uh)

SOME USEFUL (AND SOME NOT SO USEFUL) PHRASES I would like to order the dried fish, the horse and for dessert, some skyr. Ég ætla að fá harðfiskinn, hrossið og skyr í eftirrétt. (yegh ight-lah ath fow hearth-fisc-een, hraws-eeth och skeer ee eff-teerryet) Where can I get some brennivín? Hvar fæ ég Brennivín? (kvar fy yegh Brenn-ee-veen?) When does the next bus leave? Hvenær fer næsti strætó? (kvenar fer nice-tee stry-tow?)

Where is the nearest ice cream shop/swimming pool/café? Hvar er næsta ísbúð/sundlaug/kaffihús? (quar err nice-tah ease-booth /soond-loch/caff-ee-hoos?) Excuse me, sir, but I just wanted to compliment you on your magnificent beard! Afsakið, herra minn, mig langaði bara að hrósa þér fyrir þetta stórkostlega skegg! (aff – sag- eeth, herr-ah meen, meeg lan-gah-thee bar-ah ath hrose-ah thyer feer-eer that-ah store-cost-leg-ah scag)

INQUISITIVE ADVERBS

POLITE PLEASANTRIES Good morning Góðan daginn (go-than die-inn)

Please No word for that in Icelandic

How are you Hvað segirðu gott? (kvath say-ear-thuh got?)

Excuse me Afsakið (aff – sag- eeth)

Fine, and you? Allt gott, en þú? (alt got, ann thoo?)

My name is... Ég heiti … (yegh hey-tee …)

Goodbye Bless

I would like Ég ætla að fá (yegh ight-lah ath fow)

Where Hvar (kvar) When Hvenær (kvenar) What Hvað (kvath)

How Hvernig (kverrneag) Why Hvers vegna (kvars veg-nah)

SHOP LOCATIONS EPAL Harpa concert hall Epal Laugavegi 70

Reyk jav i k R ai ncoat s SH O W R O OM - H V ER F I SGATA 8 2

www. r ey k javi k ra i nc oat s.c om - info@reyk javik ra incoats.c om - TEL : 5 71 1177

Explosive Show! Volcano Documentary, Stone Collection and Geological Exhibition in Reykjavík, next to the Old Harbour.

Tryggvagata 11 | Reykjavík | +354 555 1900 | www.volcanohouse.is

On behalf of the entire crew

WE WELCOME YOU TO JOE & THE JUICE

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