What's On in Reykjavik - December 2022

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December 2022 IN REYKJAVÍK REYKJAVÍK’S LEADING GUIDE TO INFORMATION, EVENTS, MUSEUMS, AND GALLERIES SINCE 1982
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CONTENT LIST FROM THE EDITOR

WHAT’S

Welcome to Iceland

Or as I like to call it these days, winter wonderland. Spending a whole month waiting for and preparing for Christmas means that the month of December feels like a holiday in and of itself. To be honest, I find the Christmas preparation season almost as good as the real deal. During the Advent, the whole city gets decked out in Christmas lights, making the darkness feel cosy, and there are Christmas concerts, markets, food stands, and other events on every corner of the city centre.

If you want to get the full Icelandic Christmas experience, but aren’t sure how it works around these parts we’ve got you covered. In the magazine, you’ll find information on how to get properly stressed out on St Þorlákur’s day (Iceland’s only saint), why Christmas starts at precisely 6pm on Dec 24, and why we celebrate New Year’s Eve by burning lots of stuff. We also share the story of the 13 yule lads, Iceland’s version of Santa Claus. They’re trolls, they steal stuff and they have a childeating cat. I promise, I’m not making this up.

I highly recommend immersing yourself in the festivities in the city, but don’t forget that in Christmas is known as the festival of light and peace. For some serenity and calm in between the hustle and bustle, get out of the city and take in Iceland’s grand nature. Catching a glimpse of the northern lights wouldn’t hurt, either!

WHAT’S ON — VOLUME 40 — ISSUE 12

Published by: MD Reykjavík ehf.

Laugavegur 5, 101 Reykjavik. Tel.: 551-3600

Contact us: info@whatson.is

Publisher: Kjartan Þorbjörnsson

Distribution: info@baeklingadreifing.is Tel.: 662-6122

Map of Reykjavík: Friðrik Bjarnason

Editor: Gréta Sigríður Einarsdóttir, greta@whatson.is

Content writers: The What’s On Team Ad sales: Sigurþór Marteinn, sm@whatson.is

Printing: Kroonpress Ltd.

WHAT‘S ON IN REYKJAVÍK is published monthly, covering events and happenings in and around Reykjavík. Opinions expressed in WHAT‘S ON IN REYKJAVÍK are those of the individual authors. While every effort has been made to ensure the information presented is accurate, prices, times, dates and other information may be subject to change.

INFORMATION
What’s On Information Centre, Laugavegur 5.
ON 4-67 REYKJAVÍK CITY MAP 50-51 EVENTS 68-83 ART & CULTURE 84-88 PUBS & NIGHTLIFE 90-91 WINING & DINING 93-95 PRACTICAL
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E L 4 WHAT’S ON Find more on Icelandic Christmas, go to www.christmasiniceland.is
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ECOLAB
Breathtaking Experience is a A journey into RAUFARHÓLSHELLIR For more information and bookings: www.thelavatunnel.is +354 519 1616 +354 760 1000 info@thelavatunnel.is Only 35 min. from Reykjavík The highlight of our Iceland trip! The “Must See” event in Iceland Reviewed on TripAdvisor

THE WHAT’S ON CHECKLIST

December is a great time to visit Iceland. Christmas is in the air. Lights and decorations brighten the dark days, and the warm holiday spirit of the Icelanders can thaw the cold. The annual book flood provides us with some great Christmas gifts – even breweries get in the mood by releasing their Christmas beer! There are so many things to do and try in December. Here are just a few: Here are What’s On’s tips for this month:

Snap a photo with the Christmas Cat downtown.

Visit the Christmas village in Hafnarfjörður. Snowmobile on a glacier!

Try a Christmas beer. Visit Ingólfstorg Square in Reykjavík and go ice skating!

Go to a New Year‘s Eve bonfire! Check out one of the city‘s Christmas markets. Attend a Christmas concert.

While you’re checking things off the list, snap some photos and tag #whatsonrvk on Instagram.

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Icelandic Christmas, go to

CIRCULEIGHT

An immersive installation inspired by Icelandic nature at Harpa Concert Hall and Conference Centre. harpa.is

#WhatsOnRVK on Instagram

So you’re in Iceland, taking in the sights and everything else this magnificent country has to offer. Why not share it with the world?

Tag your photos #WhatsOnRvk and you might be featured in our magazine next month! Browse the entire What’s On catalogue at www.whatson.is.

@merlinartur
@revelationtheory
@chiara.fabienne.photography
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@whatsonrvk
us on Instagram!
@gabriella_viola @rakel.run @veronicasantosgoncalves @sandra.pr @markhelelo @oskar.blank 9 WHAT’S ON Find us on Instagram! @whatsonrvk

WHAT TO DO IF YOU ONLY HAVE ONE DAY TO SPEND IN ICELAND

Our first piece of advice if you have just one day to spend in Iceland is to change your flight and stay for at least a week. If that’s not an option, here’s what we suggest to get the most out of this unique destination in such a short time.

If

you just want to see the highlights

The Golden Circle is the most popular day tour from Reykjavík – and it’s easy to see why. The classic route includes three stops that also happen to be three of the most captivating natural wonders in Iceland. Tour operators may add their own twists, but you’re sure to stop at Þingvellir, a national park straddling the rift between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates; Gullfoss, an awe-inspiring waterfall that lends its name to the Golden Circle (gull translates to gold); and the Geysir geothermal area, with an erupting hot spring guaranteed to impress. You can complete the Golden Circle in half a day (depending on the tour you book), leaving you time to squeeze more into your short stay.

If you want to visit the newest lava field

The Reykjanes peninsula reminds us for the second year running why Iceland is known as the Land of Fire and Ice. The Meradalir eruption began on August 3rd and lasted until around August 22, 2022. The site of the eruption is an hour’s drive south of the capital and accessible to anyone that can handle a four to five-hour hike. There is also of course the birds-eye view option by helicopter or light aircraft. While the eruption is over, you can still marvel at the

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youngest lava field in Iceland and admire nature’s fury first-hand. But please don’t walk on the young lava fields! Lava takes years to fully cool, so there may be molten lava just beneath the seemingly solid surface. Check out the what’s on Iceland website, www.whatson.is for up-to-date info.

If you want to see a glacier

There’s no better way to get a feel for the latter half of Iceland’s “Land of Fire and Ice” moniker than to go on a glacier hike. Glacier hikes are relatively easy and accessible for most, especially because professional gear is provided. You get to walk on a glacier with guides who know everything there is to know about glaciers and Iceland in general. What’s cooler than that?

If you want a little luxury

What’s better than a spa day? Visiting a geothermal spa fed by Europe’s most powerful hot spring, Deildartunguhver. At Krauma Natural Geothermal Baths, the water from the hot spring is mixed with cool glacial water for a perfect temperature. It has five hot tubs and one cold bath, plus a relaxation room, two steam baths and an infrared sauna. Alternatively, if you don’t want to leave the capital area, book the seven-step “Ritual” at the Sky Lagoon for a luxurious afternoon of soaking, steaming, scrubbing and other soothing activities.

If you want an adrenaline rush

Are you looking for a thrill? Go on a buggy ride. A buggy is a fast, sturdy and stable ATV, perfect for anyone who loves to get their blood pumping in the great outdoors – and who doesn’t mind getting a little dirty in the process. Driving a buggy through rough Icelandic terrain, over mud puddles, dirt roads or snow, makes for an exhilarating day.

If you want to hit the high seas Marine life abounds in the water around Iceland, and you can see everything from harbour porpoises and white-beaked dolphins to minke and humpback whales on a whale watching tour. Tour boats depart Reykjavík’s old harbour throughout the day, cruising to the spots where sightings are most likely. Nothing beats the thrill of seeing a massive whale breach or watching one slap its enormous flukes on the water’s surface. If you have a few hours to spare before or after the cruise (or if you get seasick and a cruise is out of the question), check out the Whales of Iceland exhibition to learn more about these gentle giants.

Stop by the What’s On information centre, or send us an email, info@whatson.is , and ask the staff to help you plan an unforgettable vacation.

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Icelandic Christmas,
slippbarinn.is · MÝRARGATA 2 · 101 REYKJAVÍk dineout.is/slippbarinn · SLIPPBARINN@ICEHOTELS.IS · 560 8080 dineout.is/geirismart geirismart@icehotels.is +354 528 7050 geirismart.is Hverfisgata 30 101 Reykjavík PO P I N FO R G E IR I SMA R T R E S TAU RAN T A B I T E A N D A PO U R THE BIRTHPLACE OF REYKJAVIK COCKTAIL CULTURE

The Northern Lights

Now that the darkness of night has returned in full, Icelanders and tourists alike can be seen craning their necks and watching the sky for the magnificent Aurora Borealis. The northern lights are actually the results of sun flares caused by magnetic storms on the sun‘s surface. These flares send bursts of charged particles (electrons, ions, atoms) into outer space through the Sun’s corona.

If this burst is in the direction of Earth, these charged particles can cause northern lights to appear near the Earth’s poles. Oxygen and nitrogen particles in the Earth’s atmosphere can collide with charged particles from the Sun’s atmosphere.

This collision causes the Earth’s particles to get into a high-energy state, and when they return

to their normal state, they release a photon, causing them to light up. This light is a form of electromagnetic radiation, reaching the Earth along with radio waves. When billions of these collisions occur, the oxygen and nitrogen in the atmosphere emit enough light for the eye to detect them, resulting in bright green, white, red and purple colours to dance across the sky.

Seeing the lights is a magical experience, and we recommend seeking them out while you’re in Iceland. However, there are a few things every northern lights hunter should keep in mind. The northern lights aren’t a reliable attraction and seeing them can be a matter of being in the right spot at the right time. It’s not all down to luck, however, as there are a few things you can do to maximise your chances of seeing the ethereal lights.

Different ways to see the northern lights:

Going by coach:

Cheap and effective. A northern lights tour by bus or minibus is a good way to see the lights if you’re not too concerned about being surrounded by a lot of people and simply travelling by bus. Perhaps not the best time if you don’t see anything – but it’s the cheapest option to see the lights, and it gets the job done.

Going by boat:

A great experience regardless of lights. Going by boat is a very good choice for those who want to ensure they get something out of their tour even if no lights are found. Being out at sea and viewing the city lights from the water is in itself a great experience.

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WHAT’S ON Going by super-jeep: Exclusive and thrilling. Going on a hunt for the lights with a specially modified superjeep is a thrilling experience that’s fun and exciting. Sights can of course never be guaranteed, but the off-road action of a superjeep makes for a great adventure, the lights are just an added bonus. 1 GET OUT OF TOWN The city lights block the northern lights! 2 MAKE SURE IT’S DARK Daylight and northern lights don’t go hand in hand! 3 MAKE SURE THE SKY IS CLEAR The northern lights appear way above the clouds! 4 GIVE IT TIME AND BE PATIENT! The northern lights don’t come out by order – be patient and you might get lucky! 5 SIGHTINGS CAN NEVER BE GUARANTEED So we’d recommend a tour that includes some great activity as well as northern lights hunt – so you won’t feel disappointed! 6 WEAR SOMETHING WARM It can get seriously cold, especially when the sky is clear and you’re waiting for a long time. 7 KNOW YOUR CAMERA! Taking photos with a flash won’t work. Ever. A tripod and long exposure are your friends! 8 ENJOY IT! Lie down on the ground. Look up. Enjoy! Book your northern lights tour now online or at the What’s On tourist information centre, at Laugavegur 5. Top 8 tips for the northern lights Find more articles like this at www.whatson.is

NORTHERN LIGHTS PHOTOGRAPHY DO s AND DON'Ts

DO have a relatively good camera with you that allows for easy and quick change of settings.

DON’T rule out taking a photo on your phone’s camera.

DO have your ISO set to at least 800 and your aperture as low as it goes.

DON’T forget your tripod. However little you think you move while waiting for your camera to take your picture, believe me, you always move and it’s enough to make your photos blurry.

DO keep your shutter speed anywhere between 5 to 30 seconds, although the optimal would be between 5 and 20 seconds (30 seconds is only for very faint lights, basically).

DON’T forget to plan ahead when booking your northern lights tour- finding a stable surface on a boat is difficult, and large group tours might make your photography ses sion more difficult.

DO consider using continuous shooting, so that while shooting the lights, you don’t have to keep staring at them through your camera.

DON’T focus solely on your photographs and forget to be in the moment. You don’t see the northern lights every day!

If you need any more information, check out www.whatson.is or stop by the What’s On information office at Laugavegur 5.

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HOW TO READ THE NORTHERN LIGHTS FORECAST

The northern lights forecast can be found on en.vedur.is/weather/forecasts/aurora/, but it is a little hard to decipher if you’ve never seen it before. Our handy-dandy guide should make things a little bit easier.

Going on a tour?

There are many tours taking you far from the bright city lights for a better chance of seeing the aurora. These tours will be cancelled if there is no chance of seeing the lights. All major operators can be trusted to do this, first of all, because there is a high standard of professionalism in Iceland, but more importantly, because they lose money if they take you out needlessly – most of them promise to take you out again for free if you don’t see anything.

The Colours

White means no clouds while dark green means very cloudy. The different shades of green then mean more, or less, cloudy.

The numbers

The numbers are a combination of how likely it is for the lights to be active and how active they will be. Don’t be discouraged if the number is low, it’s actually very rare for the number to be higher than five. Also, take the scale with a grain of salt; a low number doesn’t mean that they won’t come out or won’t be impressive, and a high number isn’t a guarantee that they will be glorious all through the night.

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How to Travel Safely in Iceland

With a subarctic climate and a tiny population, Iceland is a little different from other popular travel destinations. Desolate landscapes, extreme weather, mountain roads, geothermal areas, and the ocean can all catch the unprepared off-guard. Keep the following six safety guidelines in mind when planning your trip to Iceland.

1. Familiarise yourself with Iceland’s emergency numbers

The emergency number in Iceland is 112. You can dial it free of charge to reach emergency services like ambulances, rescue teams, and the police, and there is also a 112 app that can send your information to emergency services at the press of a button.

2. Follow updates on Safetravel.is Icelandic weather is infamously fickle, and extreme weather is not uncommon. In wintertime, high wind speeds and snow can frequently limit visibility. Safetravel.is offers up-to-date road-condition maps, weather alerts, and plenty of helpful tips and information on the best and safest way to travel around the country. There’s an app for that, too. It’s well worth downloading and checking regularly throughout your travels.

3. Be extra careful when visiting geothermal areas

The water in geothermal areas can reach temperatures upward of 100°C. Falling in or slipping can result in severe burns. Safe paths are clearly marked, so stick to them, and never walk on ground that is steaming.

19 WHAT’S ON Visit www.safetravel.is
Find more articles like this at www.whatson.is CHECK OUT THE SAFE TRAVEL APP

4. Keep a safe distance from the ocean

Sneaker waves – disproportionally large waves that encroach farther onto shore than regular waves – are frequent occurrences at the Reynisfjara and Kirkjufjara beaches in South Iceland. Sneaker waves are more powerful than people expect, and accidents have proven fatal in the past. Keep a safe distance from the water and observe nearby signs.

5. Stay on the path

Whether visiting a waterfall, a geothermal area, or hiking in the mountains, staying on the marked footpath is imperative. Respect when paths are closed and heed all signs. It’s closed for a reason, either to protect you or fragile nature.

6. Let someone know where you’re going

If you’re planning on hiking or hitchhiking, let someone know where you’re going and when you’ll be back. You can also upload your travel plan to www.safetravel.is.

WHAT’S ON Visit
M U L T I M E D I A E X H I B I T I O N
www.safetravel.is

A world class exhibition on volcanoes and earthquakes surrounded by active volcanoes

The Lava Centre is situated at Hvolsvöllur on the South Coast of Iceland, surrounded by active volcanoes. It truly acts as the gateway to Iceland’s most active volcanic area.

The Lava Centre just received two Red Dot Awards, which cement its position as a world class exhibition.

LAVA Centre is the best place to learn about the new Fagradalsfjall eruption, with new exhibits explaining the eruption and new film footage in the volcano cinema.

MORE INFO AND TICKETS AT www.lavacentre.is Open every day 9:00 - 16:00
Iceland Volcano & Earthquake Centre Austurvegur 14, Hvolsvöllur · South Iceland

7 FACTS YOU (PROBABLY) DON’T KNOW ABOUT VOLCANOES

1. Liberty, Equality, Fraternity... Volcanicity?

The 1783-4 eruption of Laki was the biggest eruption in recorded history. An estimated 42 billion tonnes of poisonous gases and dust darkened the skies. Haze from the eruption floated east as far away as India, disrupting the monsoon season and leading to drought and crop failures. The famine that hit Egypt in 1784, was a result of the eruption, and killed roughly one-sixth of its population. While back in Iceland an estimated 20–25% of the population died from famine, and over half the livestock was poisoned or killed by giant hailstones. Food shortages contributed to social unrest across Europe and contributed to the French Revolution of 1789 that gave birth to western democracy.

2.

And in second Place…

Iceland was also the site of the second biggest emission in recorded history: the 2014 eruption of Bárðarbunga. In just 6 months, Bárðarbunga produced enough lava to cover the island of Manhattan - 85km2

3. Enter the Volcano

In Jules Verne’s Journey to the Centre of the Earth, the heroes climb down a crater on the Snæfellsnes peninsula to find vast oceans filled with extinct prehistoric creatures. While an encounter with a herd of mastodons is unlikely, a trip to Þríhnúkagígur (Thrihnukagigur) still feels pretty Jules Verne. Þríhnúkagígur is the only volcano in the world

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where you can descend into the magma chamber. Discovered in 1974 and opened to the public in 2012.

4. New Earth

Surtsey, Iceland’s most southern point was formed by a volcanic eruption at the bottom of the ocean and emerged from the water on November 14, 1963. It was immediately granted protection by law, and to this day, only scientists are allowed to go there, and even they have to get special permission. This means that we have been able to monitor how life settles on a brand-new land from the beginning, which has, of course, been invaluable to scientists.

5. SuperFresh Lava

Iceland has a third of the world’s fresh lava. ‘Fresh’ is a relative term that may need defining. When discussing Arctic Char, it’s best measured in hours. In geological time fresh lava means lava that’s less than five hundred years old. Iceland is full of these ‘Here’s one I prepared earlier’ landscapes offering snapshots of geological time and processes.

6. Icelandic volcanoes are on the move!

Due to changes in on the tectonic level of the earth, Iceland’s volcanoes are actually moving east. Veeeeeeeery slowly. If you visited Iceland 20 million years ago, the volcanoes would all have been situated in the West Fjords. Fifty million years ago, during the Eocene epoch, you would find our volcanoes living happily in Greenland, and 70

million years ago, our volcanoes would have been terrorising dinosaurs somewhere in Canada.

7. Iceland has a volcanic eruption every 4-5 years

The island has somewhere between 150-200 volcanoes, split into different volcanic systems. About 30 different systems are still considered “active” in Iceland, and 13 of them have erupted since the Viking Settlement in 874. The most recent eruptions were in Fagradalsfjall valley in 2021, which lasted 6 months, and nearby in Meradalir in 2022, which lasted only 3 weeks. These short-lived eruptions were the first on the Reykjanes peninsula in over 700 years!

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CHRISTMAS IN ICELAND a Feast of Light and Peace

Christmas in Iceland is the biggest celebration of the year. Perhaps this has something to do with the dark days of winter and the fact that Christmas coincides with the winter solstice. Whatever the reason, Christmas in Iceland is much more than just one day of celebration, there are 13 of them, and that’s not even counting Christmas Eve!

Over the top celebrations

Iceland is a very Christmas-oriented nation. It’s no wonder really, as the winter months are dark, cold and damp, so celebrating with pretty lights and lots of staying inside and eating is a no-brainer. In the good old days, when people lived in dark and cramped turf houses half-buried in the ground,

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lived off the land and just tried their best not to freeze to death or get lost in a blizzard during the winter months, the winter solstice was a cause for celebration. It made perfect sense to turn on the best candles they had, have the best meal possible, and put on their best clothes during the darkest days of winter, because it meant that there were brighter days ahead. The same mentality still applies: we celebrate with all our hearts the fact that we’ve reached the darkest point of winter and that from now on, each day will be just a little bit longer than the last, until, finally, summer comes again.

Preparations

For most Icelanders, the time spent preparing for Christmas is no less important or magical than the actual event. During the last four weeks before Christmas, Advent, people spend their time attending Christmas concerts, going Christmas shopping (a lengthy process that involves a lot of meeting relatives and acquaintances on the street), baking cookies and laufabrauð, and making sure their homes are decorated with brighter lights than their neighbours’.

One tradition can certainly be said to be fully Icelandic: eating fermented skate on December 23. Visitors to Iceland are often bewildered on this day by the foul odour surrounding the beautiful Christmas decorations in Reykjavík. This day is very important to many Icelanders and must not be underestimated as it is a vital part of the holidays.

Family parties

Getting together with family is what this is all about. Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and the Second Day of Christmas are usually packed with family events; think playing cards with your grandma in her best dress while sipping hot chocolate after stuffing yourself with smoked lamb, white sauce, and green beans. That doesn’t mean Icelanders don’t use the holidays to go out as well. The bars are open longer than usual on the Second Day of Christmas, and the weekend between Christmas and New Year’s Eve is usually packed with concerts and parties. Last but not least is of course New Year’s Eve itself when Icelanders go all out. Expect fireworks, glitter, parties, and even more fireworks.

Celebrated on December 24… Christmas Day in Iceland is a cosy affair, mostly spent wearing pyjamas all day and reading. Books

are very important during Christmas in Iceland, and probably the most common Christmas gift in the country. Most people read until the family party (mentioned above) starts. That’s because, in Iceland, Christmas starts on Christmas Eve. At precisely 18:00, families all around the country either sit down to a Christmas feast, followed by opening presents and vowing never to eat again or sit down in church followed by the aforementioned activities.

… at precisely 6pm

Why 6pm you might ask? The answer most Icelandic people will give is that it’s when the church clock starts chiming and the mass begins on the radio. Maybe people believe that’s the time Jesus was born, or “because my mom says so,” but it actually is a bit more complicated than that. Following a tradition inherited from Judaism, the Christian liturgical day starts at sunset, not at midnight. Since the invention of the clock, they settled the exact time at 18:00. This means technically, 18:00 on Christmas Eve marks the beginning of Christmas Day.

25 WHAT’S ON Find more on Icelandic Christmas, go to www.christmasiniceland.is

THE ICELANDIC YULE LADS

In most countries, one measly Santa Claus is considered quite enough. Icelanders, however, apparently favour quantity over quality and have an unruly group of 13 Yule Lads of troll ancestry roaming the mountains.

Naughty or nice?

The first record of our Yule Lads dates back to the 17th century, although the tales have changed a lot since then. The 13 troll sons of giantess Grýla and Leppalúði, Grýla’s third husband, were originally scary figures. According to the stories, they live with their parents somewhere in the mountains outside of town, along with the Christmas Cat. Sounds cosy, right? Well, it isn’t. The Christmas Cat eats children who don’t get new clothes for Christmas, while Grýla prefers to snack on naughty kids. The Yule Lads have a less infanticidal reputation, limiting themselves to pranks and petty thievery. They’ve mellowed a lot through the years, and hardly steal anything really valuable these days.

And what about the presents?

The Yule Lads arrive from the mountains one by one, just in time for Christmas. The first one arrives

as soon as they arrived in town. The last 13 days before Christmas, children leave a single shoe on the windowsill in their room before going to bed and wake up to a little trinket from one of the lads. If they’ve been good, that is. Otherwise, they just get a potato. So, the next time you wake up to a bearded and roughlooking gentleman going through your shoes, just go back to sleep, he’s probably bringing you a present.

The names speak for themselves

The Yule Lads are pranksters, but they don’t go in for just any old trick. They’ve specialised, which is reflected in their names. The names are very descriptive and refer to their individual mischievous nature, which is further detailed in a popular 1932 poem by poet Jóhannes úr Kötlum. For instance, Þvörusleikir translates as Spoon-Licker; Hurðaskellir means Door-Slammer; Gáttaþefur is DoorwaySniffer in English, and we also have, and this is no joke, Gluggagægir, which translates to WindowPeeper. If it makes you feel better, he’s only trying to locate laufabrauð he can steal.

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Introducing the Yule Lads

The Icelandic Yule Lads are the 13 sons of Grýla (the folklore is not clear on their paternity, as Leppalúði is her third husband). In Iceland of yore, the Yule Lads were an incredible nuisance and brought grief to the general populace, stealing food and pranking people. Today, however, they’ve transformed into the kinder, gentler fellows who leave gifts in the shoes of obedient children.

STEKKJASTAUR

SHEEP-COTE CLOD / DEC. 12

Due to his affinity for sheep milk, Stekkjastaur spends most of his time among humans, breaking into the sheep pens and trying to suckle the ewes. Despite his disability – he has two peg legs, which makes crawling into the sheep pens challenging – he is amazingly resilient in his efforts.

GILJAGAUR

GULLY GAWK / DEC. 13

Another fan of dairy products, Giljagaur is a bit more patient, a bit more cunning, in his attempts at pilfering milk. He doesn’t try to go straight to the cow’s udders: rather, he waits until the farm workers are distracted before swooping in and slurping the froth from the fresh milk.

STÚFUR

STUB / DEC. 14

Stúfur is named for his height – or lack thereof. For some reason, he considers burnt bits of food that get stuck to the pan a special delicacy, going so far as to raid kitchens for dirty pans to get his hands on the good stuff.

ÞVÖRUSLEIKIR

SPOON LICKER / DEC. 15 Þvörusleikir is extremely tall and skinny, which may

explain his passion for wooden spoons (he’s trying to bulk up). Patiently waiting for the work to be finished in the kitchen, Þvörusleikir, quick as a flash, grabs the dirty spoons and licks them clean.

POTTASKEFILL

POT LICKER / DEC. 16

Like Stúfur, this Yule Lad also likes to lick remains from the inside of the pots. His crimes are simple but crafty; he knocks on the door, and when residents rush to see who it is, he sneaks into the kitchen and cleans out the pots.

ASKASLEIKIR

BOWL LICKER / DEC. 17

In the old days, Icelanders ate their food from lidded wooden bowls called askar. Askasleikir would creep in, hide, and snatch the askar whenever they were put aside, licking their insides clean. Since most people have upgraded to plates, he probably has, too, while keeping his name for old times’ sake.

HURÐASKELLIR

DOOR SLAMMER / DEC. 18

Waking up is never pleasant. Being woken by a loud noise, such as a door slamming –even less so. For some reason, Hurðaskellir thinks this is hilarious and goes through town slamming doors for his own amusement.

27 WHAT’S ON Find more on Icelandic Christmas, go to www.christmasiniceland.is

SKYRGÁMUR

SKYR GOBBLER / DEC 19

For the uninitiated, skyr (pron. skeer) is a dairy product, halfway between cheese and yoghurt. It’s fat-free, high in protein, and delicious. This might explain Skyrgámur’s size (he’s said to be the size of a bull) and his habit of eating other people’s skyr.

BJÚGNAKRÆKIR

SAUSAGE SWIPER /DEC 20

While many of the Yule Lads like stealing food, they’re usually picky about what they take. Bjúga is a salty, smoked Icelandic sausage, and a favourite of Bjúgnakrækir. He loves them so much that he doesn’t mind crawling through soot and smoke to get them.

GLUGGAGÆGIR

WINDOW PEEPER / DEC 21

Again, the name really says it all. However, it’s important to note that his intentions, although not honourable, are mostly food-related. He only peeps in windows in order to locate food he could possibly steal.

GÁTTAÞEFUR

DOOR SNIFFER / DEC 22

Gáttaþefur was from birth blessed with a huge nose, heightened olfactory senses, as well as the ability to never catch a cold. He is, as so many other Icelanders, partial to laufabrauð and uses his abnormally large nose to sniff out its hiding places.

KETKRÓKUR

MEAT HOOK / DEC 23

It’s obvious that some of the Yule Lads are more industrious and cleverer than others. Ketkrókur, for example, travels around with a long stick with a hook at the end, perfect for sticking it down chimneys in order to steal meat, preferably hangikjöt (smoked lamb).

KERTASNÍKIR

CANDLE BEGGAR / DEC 24

One of the few Yule Lads not constantly occupied with food, Kertasníkir instead enjoys stealing candles, preferably from children. This seems especially mean when you know that in the old days every kid usually got a nice candle for Christmas and sometimes not much else.

GRÝLA

Grýla is an Icelandic troll who likes the flesh of naughty children. She lives in a cave and keeps a pot of boiling water at the ready, just in case she gets wind of exceptionally disobedient children. Grýla also carries a large sack to carry around the children she catches. It should be noted that Icelandic trolls are different from Norwegian ones and are nothing like internet trolls either. They are large, almost mountain-like.

LEPPALÚÐI

Grýla’s third husband possesses few defining characteristics despite extreme laziness. He doesn’t get out much. Unlike the rest of his family, he just sits around the cave waiting for Grýla to bring him food. His name has become synonymous with being extremely ugly and/or poorly dressed.

CHRISTMAS CAT

The phrase “Christmas cat” might conjure a cosy image – but don’t be fooled. The Christmas Cat is actually the sinister sidekick of the ghastly child-eating Grýla. The Christmas Cat lives with Grýla and her slothful husband in their cave. According to legend, local children who don’t receive a new item of clothing for Christmas end up in Christmas cat’s belly. This makes absolutely no sense at all, but, hey, it’s a convenient excuse to go shopping.

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Christmas Events

THE VALLEY OF LIGHTS

REYKJAVÍK FAMILY ZOO - NOV. 27-DEC. 23

The family park that sits in the back of the Reykjavík Zoo becomes a beautiful display of Christmas lights during the Advent season. From Thursday through Sunday during this time, the park will be open from 10am-8pm. Some of the rides are still operational, such as the roundabout. Admission is free for children under 12. While in the area, take a walk through the Botanical Garden, which will also be lit up with Christmas lights.

THE YULE LADS CHRISTMAS GAME

REYKJAVÍK-DECEMBER 1

Starting on December 1, you will be able to find the pesky Yule Lads in 3D hanging around on houses and buildings all around Reykjavík. Can you find them all? If so, you can win a prize from the city! Children scramble around the city during the holidays to try and find all the Yule characters for a chance for a small gift card from the city.

CHRISTMAS FOOD MARKET

HARPA - DECEMBER 17-18, 11AM-5PM

Christmas is a time to celebrate with friends and family, sure, but we all know what’s most important - the food! Fishermen, farmers, and small-market food companies gather at Harpa for the Christmas Food Market. Showcasing some of the best

ingredients and products Icelandic farmers and entrepreneurs can think of, the food fair is a great spot to pick up a souvenir from Iceland - or just a snack for the road!

CHRISTMAS PROGRAMME

ÁBÆR OPEN AIR MUSEUM

DECEMBER 11 & 18 - 1PM-4PM

Celebrate Christmas in the old-fashioned way at the Christmas Programme at the Árbær Open Air Museum. The oldest houses in Reykjavík will be fully decorated for the season, and inside each building, you can find something new: someone cooking a smelly pot of Skate, a place to decorate the traditional Leaf Bread, and a demonstration on how candles are made. You can make your own holiday card before singing and dancing around the big Christmas tree. But be on the lookout! The Yule Lads will surely be running around the museum!

THE YULE LADS VISIT THE NATIONAL MUSEUM

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ICELAND

DECEMBER 12-DECEMBER 24

The Yule Lads visit the National Museum from the 12th of December until 24th, daily at 11am. They wear their old Icelandic costumes and sing and tell children (and adults) stories. Admission ticket is needed.

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GLJÚFRASTEINN THE LAXNESS MUSEUM

Gljúfrasteinn was the home of writer Halldór Laxness (the winner of The Nobel Prize in Literature 1955) and his family for more than half a century. The house is now a museum, where the author’s home is preserved just as it was when he lived and worked there.

The museum is open on Tuesdays to Fridays from 10:00–16:00.

Audio guides of the house are available in Icelandic, English, German, Swedish, and Danish, as well as an illustrated guide in French.

Gljúfrasteinn-Laxness museum is located in the valley of Mosfellsdalur on the way to Þingvellir National Park, only a 20-minute drive from Reykjavík.

For more information, go to www.gljufrasteinn.is.

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THE FESTIVAL

Food is a significant part of Christmas celebrations all over the world and Iceland is no exception. Every country has its own tradition and while trends and fashions can influence what families eat each year, there are some foodstuffs that just have to be a part of the experience or Christmas is ruined!

MANDARIN ORANGES

A few weeks before Christmas, cases of these juicy and sweet mini oranges arrive in stores. Although mandarins are sold all year round, the fresh harvest coming into stores in November and December has the best-tasting fruit. While mandarins are the current Christmas fruit, they’ve only recently replaced apples as the holiday fruit of choice. They’re available all year today, but older Icelanders still remember a time when apples were only imported around Christmastime.

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CHRISTMAS COOKIES

As if Christmas can be celebrated without pepper cakes ( piparkökur)? We, uh, mean gingerbread cookies (or a close-enough relation)! Pepper cakes is just a literal translation of their Icelandic name, even though they usually contain little to no pepper. Store-bought or homemade, they’re always fun to decorate with colourful frosting. Other popular Christmas cookies include buttery vanilla wreaths, light and crunchy cocoa cookies called loftkökur (air cakes), and “mom’s cookies,” ginger cookies sandwiched together with buttercream. There used to be a time when the excellence of a homemaker was judged by the number of different types of cookies she made for Christmas. Anything less than five was a sign of inadequacy. Thankfully, we’re past that now. We think.

LEAF BREAD

Some traditions make more sense than others. Eating delicious cookies around Christmastime? Perfectly normal. Going to a Christmas buffet with your office mates? Fun and delicious. Spending a whole day with several other people carving delicate patterns in thin and fragile flour cakes which are then deep-fried in boiling fat and served with butter come Christmas Eve? Labour-intensive to the point of insanity. Laufabrauð or leaf bread is very thin, pretty and subtly delicious. Today, you can get them from the store, but many people still like to get together with family or friends and make them the old-fashioned way.

SMOKED LAMB

The traditional Icelandic Christmas dish at the start of the last century was hangikjöt. Directly translating to hanging meat, hangikjöt is simply smoked lamb, and today, most people serve it on Christmas Day. The salty delicacy is usually boiled and served with potatoes, a white sauce similar to béchamel, and red cabbage from a jar. Canned peas are also popular (for some reason).

MALT & APPELSÍN

There’s a special drink almost every Icelandic household serves at Christmas. It’s a non-alcoholic mixture of two soft drinks, Malt and Appelsín, produced by Iceland’s oldest soda factory, Ölgerðin. Appelsín is an Icelandic orange soda and Malt is, as the name suggests, a malt-based, non-alcoholic beer, dark brown and very sweet. There is some dispute over the correct way to mix it, Malt first or Appelsín first, dare we even suggest adding a

splash of cola to the mix? The producer suggests an alphabetical mixing order, but if you want to err on the side of caution, it’s available premixed in cans in every respectable supermarket.

33
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Þorláksmessa

Do it right

December 23 is the last day before Christmas in Iceland, and the stress of getting everything done in time – the presents, the cards, the food, and the decorations – is beginning to get to people. It’s not all bad though because mixed in with the stress and anxiety is a Christmassy sense of joy and a healthy dose of commiserating with friends and relatives. You’re all in the same boat!

Skip the malls and head to Laugavegur

While Kringlan and Smáralind, the biggest shopping malls in Reykjavík, have plenty of great stores for most of your shopping needs, you just can’t beat the Christmassy atmosphere of Laugavegur, the openair shopping street in the city centre, lined with the colourful little houses Reykjavík is famous for. Plus, the hot chocolate tastes so much better when you come in from the cold.

Commiserate with your fellow shoppers

If you’re not fluent in Icelandic, it might be interesting for you to know that on Þorláksmessa

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you only really need to know one sentence to keep up a conversation. Just say “Jæja, ertu búin að öllu?” (“So, have you done everything yet?”). The person you’re talking to will probably get a worried look on their face and start rattling off a list of everything they haven’t, in fact, done yet. All you have to do to keep up your half of the conversation is nod sympathetically every now and then and maybe throw in a cheery Gleðileg jól (Merry Christmas) before leaving.

Go downtown, even if you don’t really need to go shopping!

I may be exaggerating a tiny bit. There are people, or so I’ve heard, who have actually finished everything before Þorláksmessa, baked all the cookies, put up all the decorations, and probably finished wrapping all the gifts in October. But even those people come downtown on Þorláksmessa. Some people like to leave one last present unbought and others just take a shamelessly purposeless walk down Laugavegur. It’s the place to be, especially during the evening. So, buy that last present, or just go get a beer or a cup of cocoa, but don’t miss out on the Þorláksmessa experience.

Try some fermented skate

We saved the best for last. You thought this was going to be all nice walks down Laugavegur

admiring the Christmas lights and drinking Christmas beer, didn’t you? Well, think again. An integral part of the Þorláksmessa experience is (I swear this is true) eating the most foul-smelling seafood Iceland has to offer, fermented skate. Fish with a cartilaginous skeleton, such as skate and shark, can be fermented for food because of the high amount of naturally occurring chemicals that preserve the fish but cause it to stink in the process. Sounds appetising, right? If you’re interested, many restaurants in Reykjavík offer a skate buffet on Þorláksmessa (usually serving other fish along with it, in case the skate turns out to be too offensive to your taste buds). Also, rumour has it that the taste is slightly better than the smell.

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Icelandic Christmas,
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What are you doing New Years Eve?

Christmas is great; some people even say it’s the best. But when Christmas Eve has come and gone, and you’ve been to all the family parties, eaten all the cookies and opened all the presents, what’s there to look forward to? New Year’s Eve, that’s what.

If you are a kid (or a grown-up with a moderate to severe interest in lighting fires), this evening can be just as fun as Christmas, but on a completely different level.

A FAMILY AFFAIR – AT FIRST New Year’s Eve in Iceland is a very special event, and it’s the party night of the year. This might not be completely clear in the early evening, because many Icelanders start the night with a family dinner (turkey has become popular), followed by watching the annual comedy revue on television. Around midnight, an amazing fireworks show starts off.

COME ON, BABY, LIGHT MY FIRE

There is a reason for our burning desire to set things on fire, as there is an old superstition that says you have to burn away the old year to wake up on New Year’s Day with a clean slate. Just in case the fireworks aren’t enough, we also have New Year’s Eve bonfires. Since the bonfires promise to burn away the sins of the year gone by, you can imagine how popular they are. Most towns have one, of varying sizes, and Reykjavík even has 10 in separate

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neighbourhoods. The bonfires are usually lit at around 20:30. That’s after dinner, but before the annual comedy revue starts.

ÁRAMÓTASKAUPIÐ

– THE ANNUAL COMEDY REVUE

Áramótaskaupið is a 50-minute comedy special satirising the year’s most prominent events, and it’s been on since 1966, which, incidentally is the year RÚV (the Icelandic national broadcasting service) started broadcasting. Just how big of a deal is it? Well, in 2002, 95% of the population was watching. The other 5% were probably doctors and nurses on call tending to burns, their patients, and maybe a bartender or two. New Year’s Day conversations in Iceland are limited to discussions about what people thought of Skaupið, as it is affectionately known. Every year, Áramótaskaupið is shown in Icelandic on RÚV, and at the same time on RÚV 2 with English subtitles. Both channels are accessible on RÚV’s website.

FIREWORKS GALORE

Fireworks are illegal in Iceland for the majority of the year. But leading up to (and even a week after) New Year’s Eve, you can hear the bangs and pops all over the city. ICE-SAR, the volunteer Search and Rescue team, sells fireworks every year for the holiday as

a fundraiser. So your money is going to a good cause! As it gets closer to midnight on New Year’s Eve, people begin to gather around Hallgrímskirkja church. Things can get chaotic, with everyone setting off their own fireworks in a crowded area, so it’s common to see people wearing safety goggles!

THE PARTY

It might surprise you, but it’s not until after midnight that the actual party gets started. After the fireworks have been lit and hot chocolate has been had with older family members, that’s when people put on their glitter hats, get their confetti bombs ready and head out, drink in one hand, and a lit sparkler in the other. House parties are popular, and downtown Reykjavík quickly starts filling up with eager partygoers.

ELVES AND HIDDEN PEOPLE

There’s a fair bit of folklore dedicated to the beginning of a new year. According to tales, this is the night that the elves and hidden people move to a new house, cows speak, and seals leave their seal skin and walk on land as men. While few people have a strong belief in stories of elves and trolls anymore, many people still make sure to leave at least one light on for the whole night, for the hidden people.

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NEW YEAR’S EVE BONFIRES

Once New Year’s Eve rolls around, Icelanders tend to discover their inner pyromaniacs. Besides the tonnes of fireworks that are ignited every year, Icelanders also boast the unique tradition of New Year’s bonfires.

The first documented New Year’s Eve bonfire occurred in 1791 when a group of schoolboysstanding on a hill in downtown Reykjavík, which they nicknamed Vulcan (in honour of the Roman god of fire) - gathered some old barrels and lit them. Since then, the tradition of New Year’s Eve bonfires has spread throughout the country.

New Year’s bonfires have changed a bit over time though; in the beginning, they revolved largely around causing a drunken ruckus. These days, however, they’re more of a family affair, with families gathering around in a symbolic ritual of leaving the old year behind.

Bonfires take place all over the capital area, and we encourage you to track one down and take part in this longstanding tradition.

New Year’s Eve bonfires in the Capital Area

The closest bonfire to the city centre, takes place on Ægisíða (1), right by the seaside. We suggest heading over to get into the mood for the night.

Below you will find 9 locations where the largest bonfires of New Year’s Eve will take place (larger bonfires are marked on the map with a larger fire symbol). Most of the bonfires will be lit at 20:30 on New Year’s Eve, except for the bonfire on Úlfarsfell mountain (3), which is lit at 15:00, and the one in Skerjafjörður (2), which is lit at 21:00 following a torch parade.

Fireworks are strictly forbidden at bonfires for safety reasons. There is no organised schedule for these events, but people normally gather to sing songs and we urge you to join in. Hum it till you make it.

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Iceland’s favorite softdrink since 1955

7 FUN THINGS TO DO WITH KIDS IN REYKJAVÍK

Reykjavík is an amazing place to travel with kids at any time of year. It’s bursting with colourful houses, squares and parkettes, and interactive museums that encourage young (and old) imaginations to flourish.

Here are a few of our favourite things to do with kids in Reykjavík.

Soak up some culture

We’re of the opinion that you’re never too young for museums. Reykjavík has a lot to choose from, but those that we’ve found to be most kid-approved have an interactive element or two.

The Maritime Museum will teach the whole family about Iceland’s fishing tradition from the olden days up to modern times, while allowing kids to dress up like fishermen, go on a scavenger hunt through the exhibit, and try their hand stacking crates of fish with a forklift.

The Settlement Exhibition Reykjavík 871±2 is another family favourite. Built around the remains of a Viking longhouse excavated smackdab in the middle of Reykjavík, the museum tells the story of Reyjavík’s settlement (in the year 871, give or take

a couple years) with interactive screens to learn more about the rocky remains. There’s also a room where kids can dress as Viking settlers and play old games.

Also great for families travelling with younger members are the Árbær Open Air Museum, with its turf houses and olden-day charm, and the National Museum of Iceland, which has a room for families to enjoy.

Meet the ducks

Reykjavík’s central pond, Tjörnin, is home to a healthy population of ducks, geese and swans, in part thanks to its proximity to Vatnsmýri, a protected wetland and bird sanctuary, to the south. A stroll around the pond is a great way to spot the pairs of ducks floating around and doing their thing.

Feeding bread to the ducks is frowned upon – and not allowed at all over the summer when ducklings arrive – but if you happen to have frozen peas or birdseed in your pocket, feel free to toss that for your new beaked buddies.

Expect to see mallards, gadwall, greater scaup, tufted ducks and teal, plus greylag geese and

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swans. There’s also a sign on the north end of the pond (by City Hall) with descriptions of some birds you might spot in the area.

Go for a dip

Iceland’s thermal pools are good for swimming laps and lounging around in, but they’re also tons of fun for kids. Many locations have kids’ pools, with fountains and slides for the littlest ones, and bigger kids will get a thrill out of the bigger slides with their twists and turns.

Just remember: shower with soap before suiting up and jumping in.

Ride a horse

Even if you’re not a family of avid equestrians, you can enjoy a day on horseback in Iceland. Icelandic horses are known for their calm and friendly nature, making them perfect for inexperienced adults or children to ride – plus they’re shorter than horses you find in other parts of the world, so climbing into the saddle is less intimidating an experience.

Always check the minimum age requirements before booking a riding tour, but some will welcome kids as young as 7-years old. It’ll be an unforgettable experience for kids of all ages.

Hit the high seas

Introduce your kids to whales while in Iceland. A number of whale watching tours depart from Reykjavík’s old harbour year-round, taking you out on Faxaflói Bay for a chance to spot humpback whales, minke whales, white-beaked dolphins and harbour porpoises.

There’s a real thrill in the hunt, and the excitement onboard goes through the roof at the sight of a humpback’s mighty fluke slapping the water. Go later in the spring or during the summer to also see puffins, which are not the most graceful of birds –kids and adults will get a laugh as they crash-land on the water’s surface.

Kids that don’t have the patience (or the stomach) for a three-hour tour might opt for a visit to Whales of Iceland, where they can come face to face with the true scale of the gentle giants of the sea, learn about whales and play on the orca-themed climbing structure.

Go inside a glacier

For an activity that your kids will be ooh-ing and ahh-in over long after you’ve departed Iceland, take them inside a glacier. A tour atop Langjökull glacier and into a man-made tunnel dug into it a few years back is a suitable adventure for the whole family. Those travelling with adventurous kids 6-years or older are also able to take a tour of the natural ice cave in Katlajökull glacial tongue, part of the glacier covering the mighty Katla volcano.

Don’t feel like schlepping to a real glacier? Perlan has brought the ice cave experience to Reykjavík. Just catch a shuttle to the glass-domed building on Öskjuhlíð to visit Perlan’s Ice Cave and Glacier Exploratorium, the world’s first indoor ice cave. There’s also an ice cream parlour and cafe at Perlan, which you definitely won’t find atop a real glacier.

Visit Laugardalur

If it’s a nice day to spend outdoors, there are few better places to be than in Reykjavík’s Laugardalur neighbourhood. Take the kids to the Reykjavík Family Park and Zoo to meet Icelandic farm animals, plus foxes, seals and reindeer. Let them run wild and jump on the air trampoline in the park’s expansive play area, and then wind down with a stroll through Reykjavík’s Botanic Garden. It’ll be a day well spent just outside the city centre.

If you’re spending a day or two exploring Reykjavík’s museums and swimming pools, consider buying the Reykjavík City Card. Available for 24hr, 48hr, and 72hr periods for kids and adults, it gives you access to museums, swimming pools, public transport, and more at one low price.

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ICE CAVES

Iceland‘s glaciers are part of its unique, beautiful and harsh landscape. Every year, thousands of people come to look at these wonders. Perhaps the most adventurous dare to hike across the glacier, which can be dangerous and is only to be done with an experienced guide. There is another option: enjoy the glacier from the inside.

Ice caves can be found in different parts of Iceland. Some occur naturally, while others are manmade. Regardless of how they were created, the experience of walking through the ice into a glacier is unlike anything you have ever experienced. And just like walking on top of a glacier, walking into an ice cave should never be done without a guide.

A natural ice cave is formed when the meltwater of a glacier moves through the ice, leaving behind a cavern. The summer sunlight sometimes melts the ice inside the cavern, creating stunning ice formations.

One of Iceland‘s most famous natural ice cave resides in South Iceland under Mýrdalsjökull glacier, near Vík. Created by a volcanic eruption – Mýrdalsjökull is also home to Katla, one of the most violently explosive volcanoes in the country – what is now known as The Secret Ice Cave is

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an unbelievable spectacle. To get to the cave, you must first traverse the otherworldly black sands in a special 4x4 vehicle. The illuminating blue of the ice contrasts wildly with the bleak landscape. It is an easy hike through the cave that takes around 3 hours. The most popular ice cave experience, however, is in the man-made cavern in Langjökull. Opened in 2015, this tunnel goes 30m into the ice and then stretches on for half a kilometre. Even though it was fabricated, nature has put its own stamp on the cave, as ice formations have formed naturally inside. To get there, you have to first ride on the giant, 8-wheel glacier truck, which is an unforgettable experience itself. Once inside the cave, however, you will see a side of nature most people never get to experience. Into the Glacier is the company that runs these tours, and they operate year-round.

Don‘t have the time or the ability to get out to these wonders? You can experience an ice cave inside the Perlan museum! Inside the exhibition room is a 100m long ice cave made from 350 tonnes of snow. Make sure you grab a selfie while sitting on the ice throne!

There are several other natural and man-made ice caves found throughout the Icelandic countryside – but these should never be visited without a guide. Ice caves and glaciers change constantly

under influence of the weather and movements of the ice. Outside adventure tours are heavily weather-dependent and might be cancelled based on weather conditions. Caves are sometimes narrow, and cave floors might be slippery. Tour operators will make sure you have the right clothes and equipment.

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more information, check out the link or visit the
For
What’s On Information Centres on Laugavegur.

Check out the article Reykjavik Sights to See on pages 40-41 for more information about the places numbered here.

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6 4 9 3 1 8 2 i 1 2 3 5 6 8 9 11 BSÍ i 14
REYKJAVÍK CITY MAP 10 What’s On Tourist Information and Booking Centre Locations 10 12 Tour Pick Ups Main areas Sights i 13 5

Reykjavík sights to see

Reykjavík sightseeing has something for everyone! The city is filled with things to do, places to go, and stuff to see, but some things are just a little bit more important than others.

Check out the map in the centre of the magazine to find the exact location of these Reykjavík sights.

1

HALLGRÍMSKIRKJA

Hallgrímskirkja church is one of Reykjavík’s most iconic buildings and is visible from almost anywhere in the city. It’s the largest church and the 6th tallest architectural structure in Iceland. The church tower offers a fantastic view of the city. It’s named after the Icelandic poet and clergyman Hallgrímur Petursson, author of the Passion Hymns. The architect, Guðjón Samúelsson, designed it to resemble the basalt lava column flows of Iceland’s landscape. Construction started in 1945 and was finished in 1984.

2 PERLAN Standing at 25m, Perlan is one of Reykjavík’s most striking buildings. Built on top of the city’s hot water tanks, Perlan is known for its unique architecture. Inside Perlan, you can visit Wonders of Iceland, an exhibition spread over multiple levels. A visit to a real ice cave, planetarium shows, exhibitions on Iceland’s history, glaciers, volcanoes, and water, and a spectacular 360° viewing platform are all included in a ticket. On the top floor, there is a restaurant and coffeehouse for guests in need of refreshment. Surrounding Perlan is the Öskjuhlíð area, one of the many green spaces in Reykjavík, perfect for a walk on a sunny day.

3

TJÖRNIN

Tjörnin (The Pond) is the heart of the city centre and offers some of the most amazing views in Reykjavík. There is no better place in the city to enjoy a beautiful sunset, and you can watch or feed a huge variety of birdlife that calls the lake home while you’re at it. When the lake freezes over in winter, geothermal water is pumped in to defrost an area for the birds and feeding them is a popular family pastime all year round. Those who can handle the cold take to the lake on ice skates.

4

AUSTURVÖLLUR

When the sun is shining, Austurvöllur is the place to be. Surrounded by cafés and restaurants, this public square is a popular spot for locals to dine outside, soak up some sunshine or recline on the grass with picnics. In fact, whatever the season, Austurvöllur is the place to be. It’s used for celebrations on holidays, and in December, the city’s biggest Christmas tree is located there. Due to its proximity to The House of Parliament, Austurvöllur is also a popular gathering spot for political protesters. At the centre of it all stands a statue of Jón Sigurðsson, the renowned figure who is credited with leading Iceland to independence. Check out our centerfold map for the locations of these sights

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5 HLEMMUR The Hlemmur bus terminal has been a city centre fixture for decades – although the reason for its popularity has changed. It was transformed into a food hall a couple years back, and it’s difficult to imagine Hlemmur square without it. The food hall attracts a fun crowd, and the place is booming! With Neapolitan pizza, LA-style tacos, gourmet burgers, gelatos, and specialities from the Michelin Bib Gourmandawarded Skál, there’s something for everybody!

6 HARPA The whole 28,000m2 of Harpa stand at the edge of Reykjavík Harbour. It houses Iceland’s biggest concert hall, suitable for a broad range of concerts and cultural events, a conference centre with meeting facilities and in-house catering, as well as a couple of fine restaurants. Harpa also hosts promotions, plays, and public events. Harpa was designed by a Danish firm in cooperation with Ólafur Elíasson, an Icelandic artist, and opened to the public in 2011.

7 THE OLD HARBOUR Though it’s the oldest harbour in its original form, Reykjavík’s Old Harbour is no longer the busiest for freight. Instead, it’s an oft-visited area where you’ll find a community of shops, galleries, electric bike and scooter rentals, and tour operators. You will also find numerous whale watching companies willing to take you out to sea on unforgettable excursions. The area is filled with excellent restaurants (pizza, seafood, burgers, etc.) and cafés. The atmosphere at the old harbour is friendly, the air is fresh and salty, and there are plenty of interesting activities to check out.

8 THE SUN VOYAGER A beautiful sculpture of a Viking ship located by the ocean on a small peninsula by Sæbraut, close to downtown Reykjavík. The sculpture by Jón Gunnar Árnason symbolises the Viking past of the Icelanders and is an ode to the sun. It serves as a reminder of our history and heritage when the first Viking settlers came sailing to Iceland. The Sun Voyager looks its best when the sun is setting, at whatever time that may be. The unforgettable view of the sculpture with a backdrop of the ocean and Mt. Esja is every photographer’s dream.

9 HOUSE OF PARLIAMENT Founded in 950 AD, Iceland’s Parliament, Alþingi, is the oldest extant parliament in the world! For centuries, the Parliament gathered in the open air (on the aptly named Þingvellir, Parliament Fields), but in recent years, the members of Parliament have met in Reykjavík. The House of Parliament is a modest classical building of hewn Icelandic dolerite, and it gives Austurvöllur square a dignified look. The Parliament garden behind the building is small but lovely in the summertime.

10 LAUGARDALSLAUG Every country has traditions when it comes to leisure. Icelanders’ favourite pastime is going swimming. Laugardalslaug is the city’s largest pool with extensive facilities, located in Laugardalur valley. Its facilities include a 50m outdoor pool, an outdoor children’s pool and a paddling pool, two waterslides, numerous hot tubs, a steam bath, gym, and a mini-golf course. There really is no better place to be on a sunny day or a cold one for that matter. Right outside, you will find a hot dog stand where you can buy traditional Icelandic hot dogs.

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Check out our centerfold map for the locations of these sights

Museums in Downtown Reykjavík

Reykjavík’s history reaches more than a thousand years into the past, and the city has a rich cultural heritage. What better way to learn more about Icelandic culture than visiting the city centre’s museums?

Hafnarhús serves as the museum’s institute of contemporary art, where new developments in art are explored through rotating exhibitions. An exhibition of paintings by well-known pop artist Erró is a permanent feature. Kjarvalsstaðir is devoted to one of Iceland’s most influential painters, Jóhannes Sveinsson Kjarval, and Ásmundarsafn is the former home and workshop of sculptor Ásmundur Sveinsson.

THE REYKJAVÍK MUSEUM OF PHOTOGRAPHY

The Museum of Photography’s main objective is to present both historical and contemporary photography in an artistic, social, and cultural context, as well as to nurture public and scholarly interest in photography. The collection’s themes range from family photographs to photos from portrait studios, industrial and advertising photography, press photography, landscape

In 2001, archaeological remains of a settlement-era hall were excavated, which was inhabited from 930-1000. North of the hall, two pieces of a turf wall were found, which were built before 871. These findings are the oldest relics of human habitation found in Reykjavík. An innovative, interactive exhibition gives an impression of what life was like in those times. Objects from the age of settlement found in central Reykjavík and on Viðey island are also on display.

THE REYKJAVÍK ART MUSEUM

The Reykjavík Art Museum has three locations: Hafnarhús, Kjarvalsstaðir, and Ásmundarsafn.

The nation’s most precious treasures are kept and displayed at the National Museum of Iceland. The museum was established in 1863, and it gives an insight into Iceland’s cultural heritage from the time of the settlement up to modern times. There’s a permanent exhibition of Icelandic history and culture from the settlement era on, as well as temporary exhibitions highlighting specific eras or aspects of Iceland’s cultural heritage.

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1 2 3 4
Check out our centerfold map for the locations of these sights
1 2 3 4 5 6 6 5 7 7 Check out our centerfold map for the locations of these sights

GO SWIMMING!

Whether you visit a thermal pool in Reykjavík, a luxurious spa, or a natural pool in the countryside, swimming in Iceland is a unique experience. Nothing beats relaxing in warm water while breathing in fresh cold air.

BEST KID-FRIENDLY POOL

Swimming pools are one of the most kid-friendly activities you can find in Iceland, so the short answer is – all of them! To be more specific, the centrally located Sundhöll has a great outdoor area, and so does Vesturbæjarlaug, but Árbæjarlaug is a hidden gem, a perfect stop if you’re going out of town anyway, and pairs well with a visit to the Árbær

BEST POOL TO CHAT WITH LOCALS

Locals love going to the pool, and chilling in a hot tub is a good way to connect to Icelanders. Often, Icelanders meet in the pool and use this time to chat and catch up on the latest developments. Good options for hanging out with locals are Vesturbæjarlaug, Seltjarnarneslaug, and

BEST POOL FOR SERIOUS SWIMMERS

Laugardalslaug is Reykjavík’s biggest pool and the best one for a long swim. It’s an Olympic-size swimming pool, used for recreational swimming,

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Laugardalslaug
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exercise, and competitions. The big indoor pool is also used for training and competitions. Laugardalslaug also offers plenty of hot tubs, cold tubs, and steam baths for relaxation after a healthy swim, and to top it off, a fitness centre and spa are located next to the pool.

BEST POOL FOR A DAY TRIP

Basically every town in Iceland has its own pool. Almost all of them are beautifully located next to mountains and overlooking fjords and the ocean. If you plan to make a day tour out of your pool visit, head to the Westman Islands and visit Sundhöllin Vestmannaeyjar on Heimaey island. The ferry ride out to the island is an adventure, and there is a great indoor pool, a large outside pool with hot tubs, and cool waterslides.

BEST LUXURY SPA

In need of pampering? You’ve heard of the Blue Lagoon with its milky blue waters and mud masks, but did you know a brand-new spa opened just 10 minutes by car from downtown Reykjavík? Located at the edge of the bay of Kópavogur, the pool offers amazing coastal views. Sky Lagoon boasts a modern approach to traditional Icelandic swimming culture, making it the perfect spot to relax, enjoy a drink, socialise, and soak in the sun.

Vesturbæjarlaug

SWIMMING POOLS IN REYKJAVÍK

SUMER OPENING HOURS

More info on www.sundlaugar.is

Árbæjarlaug (Tel. 411 4200)

Mon - Fri: 6:30-22 • Sat - Sun: 9-22

Grafarvogslaug (Tel. 510 4600)

Mon - Fri: 6:30-22 • Sat - Sun: 9-22

Laugardalslaug (Tel. 411 5100)

Mon - Thu: 6:30-22 • Fri - Sun: 8-22

Vesturbæjarlaug (Tel. 411 4200)

Mon - Fri: 6:30-22 • Sat - Sun: 9-22

Breiðholtslaug (Tel. 557 5547)

Mon - Fri: 6:30-22 • Sat - Sun: 9-22

Klébergslaug (Tel. 566 6879)

Mon - Thu: 11-22 • Fri: 11-19 • Sat - Sun: 11-18

Sundhöllin (Tel. 411 5350)

Mon - Fri: 6:30-22 • Sat - Sun: 8-22

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Book your table: Tel. +354 454 0333 treslocos.is Find us at: Hafnarstræti 4 101 Reykjavik New fun & lively Mexican restaurant in Reykjavik Colourful decor full of curiosities with vibrant and lively atmosphere. We’re loco about tacos, tostadas, fajitas, quesadillas and other Mexican delicacies, made with fresh Icelandic ingredients.

The Christmas Book Flood

An extraordinary amount of books are published in Iceland each year, considering the size of the nation. The Christmas season is the most important period in publishing in Iceland because books are a particularly popular Christmas gift. The majority of books are sold in December and for a few weeks around Christmas, every Icelander is a literary critic! It’s known as the Christmas book flood, so take a dive!

THE SAGAS OF THE ICELANDERS

AUTHORS UNKNOWN

You can get a collection with all the sagas, but we recommend starting with the most popular ones, such as the epic Njáls Saga, the adventurous Egils Saga, or the romantic Laxdæla Saga. Reading these centuriesold texts is challenging but rewarding at the same time.

THE FISH CAN SING BY HALLDÓR LAXNESS

Independent People is Halldór’s best-known novel and it is nothing short of a masterpiece, but it’s also a bleak and depressing portrait of a poor farmer’s life complete with domestic violence, class injustice, child labour, and light paedophilia. What we’re saying is that this is no fun summer read. If you think you’re up for

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Author Einar Kárason

it, by all means, go ahead, but for a more palatable taste of Laxness, we recommend picking up The Fish Can Sing, a charming coming-of-age story set in Reykjavík at the turn of the century.

DEVIL’S ISLAND

Devil’s Island by Einar Kárason tells the story of life in Iceland after World War II, when families were living in barracks left by the US army. The rural community in Iceland conflicted with American pop culture brought to the country by American troops during the war. The story revolves around one family and reads just like an Icelandic saga. The movie adaption of the book by director Friðrik Þór Friðriksson was released in 1996.

LOVESTAR

Among Andri’s oeuvre is a book of discount poetry sold in grocery stores, children’s books, and a non-fiction books on the state of Iceland’s industry and its future direction. He also ran for president of Iceland in 2016 and came in third. LoveStar is a dystopian novel, initially published in 2002, set in a future where a giant corporation controls the lives of

THE GREENHOUSE

The protagonist is a young man who’s leaving Iceland, still reeling from the sudden loss of his mother. Their shared love of tending roses inspires him to move to a remote monastery to restore its gardens but he’s leaving some complex relationships behind. This touching story paints an intimate portrait of a man dealing with grief, fatherhood, and his own masculinity, while nurturing the plants he surrounds himself with. Auður Ava’s masterful grasp of symbolism has earned her several awards, including the Icelandic Literature Prize and the Nordic Council Literature Prize.

I REMEMBER YOU

Yrsa is the queen of Icelandic crime fiction. Despite writing about horrific crimes in a country with statistically less than one murder per year, Yrsa is knwown for writing believable and threedimensional characters as well as a thrilling plot with twists and turns aplenty. Her books about Þóra Guðmundsdóttir, a crime-solving lawyer, are immensely popular,

61 WHAT’S ON Find more on Icelandic Christmas, go to www.christmasiniceland.is
Author Yrsa Sigurðardóttir Author Andri Snær Magnason
Open Nov. 18th – Dec. 23rd: Fridays: 5 pm - 9 pm Saturdays: 1 pm – 6 pm Sundays: 1 pm – 6 pm More info at: hfj.is/Christmas

Christmas Markets

The Christmas Markets will return to downtown Reykjavík after a two-year hiatus due to Covid. Handmade crafts, lopapeysas, baked goods and much much more will be for sale in small pop-up booths set up on different streets and squares. There is bound to be hot chocolate, lights, and music to get you in the festive mood.

HAFNARFJÖRÐUR CHRISTMAS MARKET

November 18-20, 25-27, December 2-4, 9-11, 16-18, 23 Fridays 5pm-9pm, weekends 1pm-6pm (skating rink is open Thursday-Sunday until the end of December) Downtown Hafnarfjörður turns into a festive market every Christmas season. Hafnarfjörður residents and local companies will participate in making this year’s Christmas Village the biggest one yet. Thorsplan plaza is transformed into a Christmas market selling everything from Icelandic design and crafts to snacks and hot drinks, there will be plenty of concerts and events, and an ice-skating rink. It is easy to get to Hafnarfjörður from Reykjavík –just jump on the no 1 bus, which will take you on a 20-minute ride straight to the downtown area for a wonderful Christmas experience.

HJARTATORG SQUARE CHRISTMAS MARKET

December 3, 4, 9, 10, 16, 17, 21-23 Christmas Market at Hjartatorg – weekends 1-6pm The Christmas market at Hjartatorg square is a

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Christmas,

classic Christmas market following the European tradition. Handicrafts, delicacies, knick-knacks, and hot chocolate are sold by a diverse selection of retailers. The goods will be sold from small wooden houses and Christmas decorations and lights everywhere will ensure the Christmas spirit is all around. Hjartatorg Square is just off the main walking street, Laugavegur, behind the 66 North clothing store.

ICE SKATING AT INGÓLFSTORG SQUARE

December 3-4, 9-11, 16-23 Christmas Market at Ingólfstorg 12pm-8pm, 4pm-8pm on Fridays

Ingólfstorg Square is in the heart of downtown on Austurstræti. Nova has yet again joined forces with the city of Reykjavík to open an ice-skating rink on Ingólfstorg square. 100,000 light bulbs will light up the beautiful square. In addition to the Ingólfstorg ice-skating rink, a Christmas market will be also located at Ingólfstorg square surrounding the ice rink and down to Austurstræti street, where both refreshments and merchandise will be for sale. Helmets and skates can be rented on-site.

CHRISTMAS MARKET IN HEIÐMÖRK FOREST

November 26, 27, December 3, 4, 10, 11, 17, 18 12pm-5pm

The beloved wooded area on the outskirts of Reykjavík, Heiðmörk, is normally a place for hiking and mountain biking. But on the weekends leading up to Christmas, you can find a Christmas market hidden in the trees. The vendors here focus on products made with natural materials and objects

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New in Town

For over 150 years, this historical building was the main post office of Reykjavík. It closed its doors four years ago, but now it finally reopened as the newest food court in downtown Reykjavík. Pósthús Mathöll kept a classic and charismatic look giving a new life to this city centre landmark. It combines 9 different restaurants and bars.

Kramber

Skólavörðustígur 12

If you’re looking for a cosy and exotic atmosphere, Kramber is the right place to go! It’s located right next to Kramhusið, a very popular alternative dance studio. You can grab a nice cup of coffee, a glass of good wine and some light snacks in a friendly and creative atmosphere.

ORG

Laugavegur 46

ORG is a ethical and sustainable fashion shop located in the main shopping street of Laugavegur. ORG’s emphasis is on brands and products that have been produced and manufactured with respect for nature and people. ORG also offer a variety of kitchen and household supplies, cosmetics and others.

Fröken Reykjavík Kitchen & Bar

Lækjargata 12 (Hotel Reykjavík Saga)

Situated on the first floor of one of the newest hotels in town, Hotel Reykjavík Saga, has an outstanding outside sitting area and a winter garden. Fröken is a beautifully decorated restaurant and bar with a marvellous selection of food and beverages.

Wash Laundromat

Grettisgata 3

Wash is the first professional self-service laundromat in Reykjavík, and it’s been long awaited by both visitors and locals. The machines take up to 30 kg, it takes only 30 min for cleaning and drying and the clothing detergent is included. It’s open every day from 7 AM to 9 PM.

67 WHAT’S ON
Kramber
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Fröken Reykjavík

MULINN JAZZ CLUB - NAT KING COLE - BEST OF CHRISTMAS

DECEMBER 14 - HARPA

This quartet honours the legendary Nat King Cole trio. The jazz club Múlinn is at the top of Harpa, the glamorous multiple-music venue at the heart of Reykjavik. On a clear night, sometimes the Aurora Borealis can be seen from the balcony. You will hear all the songs you love, including The Christmas Song, O Little Town of Bethlehem, O Holy Night and many more; the spirit of famous crooners won’t be far away. The trio of players includes some of the most renowned jazz musicians in Iceland. Þór Breiðfjörð is one of the main “crooner” singers in Iceland, having recorded the Christmas album “Jól í stofunni” (available on Spotify) a few years back.

ANDKRISTNI METAL FEST

DECEMBER 16 & 17 - GAUKURINN

Andkristnihátið is the longest-running metal festival in Iceland, going back to the year 2000. Some of the best black metal bands in Iceland will take the stage alongside some up-and-coming metal acts from the US, Ireland and Germany. If you are a metal fan, don‘t miss this two-day, ear-punishing fest.

BRÍET’S HOLIDAYS CONCERT

DECEMBER 16 & 17 - FRÍKIRKJAN

Singer-songwriter Bríet will celebrate the holidays by hosting a unique and intimate concert with her boyfriend Rubin Pollock, and his best friend, Þorleifur Gaukur. The concert will be cosy, friendly and loads of fun.

Together they will play songs from Bríet’s debut album ‘Kveðja, Bríet’ alongside their favourite Holiday songs. Do not miss this opportunity to get away from all the Holiday preparations and enjoy their beautiful music.

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NOTABLE EVENTS

CHRISTMAS AT THE SYMPHONY

DECEMBER 17-18 AT 2PM OR 4 PM.

At this year’s Christmas concerts, the Orchestra offers a wide range of music that has long been an indispensable part of the holiday season. Solo vocalists Alexander Jarl Þorsteinsson, Björk Níelsdóttir, and Kolbrún Völkudóttir; the Reykjavík Girls’ Choir; the Litlu Sprotarnir Sign Language Choir; and the Reykjanes Music School Bell Choir perform Christmas favourites. Dancers from the Iceland Ballet Academy and groups of young instrumentalists take the stage as well. With Halldóra Geirharðsdóttir as Master of Ceremonies in the role of the inimitable Barbara the Clown, the festive mood will infect everyone. Christmas at the Icelandic Symphony Orchestra is an event no music lover should miss.

CHRISTMAS MOVIES

ALL DECEMBER - BÍÓ

PARADÍS

Throughout December, Bíó Paradís will be showing some classic modern Christmas movies, like Home Alone, Love Actually, and Die Hard. Check their schedule for details at bioparadis.is.

NEW YEAR’S EVE RUN

DECEMBER 31 AT 12PM.

Every year, the ÍR track and field hosts a fun run in Reykjavík. What better way to say goodbye to 2022 than to literally run away from it? Choose between an easy 3K or the longer 10K course. Both races start and end at Harpa Concert Hall. You might be tempted to bundle up against the cold of late December, but keep in mind that a prize is given for the most unique costume! To register and for more information, visit https://netskraning.is/ gamlarshlaupir/.

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MUSEUMS & EXHIBITIONS

SIGURJÓN ÓLAFSSON MUSEUM

A Mural without a Wall A poster and sculpture exhibition relating the story of Sigurjón Ólafsson’s monumental relief Stacking Saltfish, which was originally supposed to decorate the house of the Fish Industry in Reykjavík. In the end, the relief became a free-standing wall in the vicinity of the College of Navigation in Reykjavík. New research revealed severe deterioration in the relief, suggesting that previous repair-work was unsuccessful.

REYKJAVIK ART MUSEUM ÁSMUNDARSAFN

Ásmundur Sveinsson and Unndór Egill Jónsson

Contemporary sculptor Unndór Egill Jónsson presents a new body of work framed as a response or conversation with the work and legacy of Ásmundur Sveinsson. The museum itself was designed and built as a studio and home by Ásmundur. All about light, the modernist concrete structure is (apparently) a mix of the Mediterranean and Nordic styles,

though that might take a minute. If you’ve not been, it’s a very cool space and well worth checking out. Unndór Egill’s practice mixes woodwork, furniture and kinetic timber machinery. It will be interesting to see how it fits with the singular vision of Ásmundur’s beautiful, peculiar space.

AURORA REYKJAVÍK

Catch the Aurora Borealis All Year Round

There is perhaps nothing more

However, those unpredictable, ever dancing lights don’t always show up on cue – and fade away during the summer months. So, it is with great joy that we welcome Aurora Reykjavík – The Northern Lights Centre, where the northern lights are always on display.

Aurora Reykjavík’s pull and ace up its sleeve is its fantastic 4k timelapse film of the Aurora Borealis. Aurora Reykjavík’s latest additions are virtual reality goggles featuring the world’s first 360° movie of aurora displays entirely shot in Iceland. If you can’t catch the northern lights yourself, this utterly realistic experience is definitely the next best option to witness the beauty of this truly amazing phenomenon.Capturing the northern lights with your own camera can be challenging, but at Aurora Reykjavík, you receive instruction by the experts: bring your camera and try the right settings at the Northern Lights Photo Simulator. In the exhibition, you will find an entertaining selfie booth – have fun looking all fabulous under the northern lights!

For more information, see www.aurorareykjavik.is.

EVENTS
Unndór Egill Jónsson
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HOME OF AN ARTIST

A Window in Reykjavík –Ásgrímur Jónsson’s house

The exhibition A Window in Reykjavík comprises a selection of works by Ásgrímur Jónsson. The common feature of these works is that they relate to the artist’s surroundings in Reykjavík.

Ásgrímur Jónsson (1876–1958) is one of the pioneers in the history of Icelandic art; he was the first Icelandic painter to make a career in art. The view from the window of Vinaminni, where he first lived on his return to Iceland, became a favourite motif for him, with its vista of Reykjavík Harbour and Mt. Esja across the bay. Watercolour was an appropriate medium for capturing the quality of the light over the waters of Skerjafjörður and the houses on Laufásvegur. Ásgrímur’s life and oeuvre span a long period of Iceland’s history – a time when the old rural society was starting to decline and Reykjavík was growing from a town into a city. Many of Ásgrímur’s paintings from Reykjavík, painted in the first half of the 20th century, depict a peaceful little town where houses cluster along the ocean shore; yet they also show economic activity, such as workmen building roads as the new urban society evolves.

NATIONAL GALLERY OF ICELAND

Zanele Muholi

Opening on October 15 at the National Gallery of Iceland is an exhibition of the works of South African photographer and visual activist Zanele Muholi. Muholi‘s powerful images capture the struggle for the rights of black lesbian, gay, bisexual, trans, queer and intersex people in the artist‘s home country. Muholi gives a voice to those who have to battle daily for recognition of their identity.

More than 100 photographs, together with video works, provide insight into these marginalised communities: Muholi‘s sincere view focuses especially on identity politics, prohibitions, hate crime and rape, but also on pride, resistance, unity and love.

Jewellery by Dieter Roth Dieter Roth (1930—1998) was a pioneer who respected no boundaries: a thinker, trailblazer, poet, musician, filmmaker and visual artist. A less well-known aspect of his career is that he also made an impression with his

creation of innovative jewellery, starting in Iceland in the late 1950s. The first pieces of jewellery designed by Roth were made in collaboration with his wife, artist Sigríður Björnsdóttir, at the kitchen table in their home; but before long, they were offered better facilities in the atelier of goldsmith Halldór Sigurðsson at Skólavörðustígur 2 in central Reykjavik.

Roth‘s jewellery, generally composed of screws, bolts and other mechanical parts, could be assembled in various different ways, and reconfigured. His jewellery-making was characterised by the same approach as his art: he made use of materials that were generally dismissed as waste or refuse, which he transformed. No two objects are alike; Dieter Roth was familiar with the qualities of the material and worked directly with it. In the 1960s, Roth embarked on a collaboration with Swiss goldsmith Hans Langenbacher; the two men had first met at the atelier of goldsmith Jón Sigmundsson in Reykjavík in 1958, and had been impressed by each other‘s methods, use of materials, and skill.

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Ásgrímur Jónsson Dieter Roth Zanale Muholi

REYKJAVIK ART MUSEUM KJARVALSSTAÐIR

Jóhannes S. Kjarval: First Snow

The works of art featured in the exhibition are some of the key paintings of Kjarval’s career, as well as some that are rarely seen by the public. The exhibition features paintings and drawings from Kjarval’s entire career, illuminating the diversity and depth of his life’s work. Nature and Iceland’s landscapes were his main subject, but he also made several portraits and what he called “fantasies”, where the artist’s subjective interpretation leads the way and dreamlike landscapes filled with fantastical creatures blur the lines between reality and dreams. The works are from the Reykjavík Art Museum’s collection, as in 1968, Kjarval donated a large part of his work and personal items to the city.

Guðjón Ketilsson: Jæja

The Icelandic phrase ‚jæja‘ can mean anything or nothing. It means nothing on its own, but it can carry a lot of weight, depending on the context. It can be a word of sympathy, a verbal smirk, or simply something to say to fill an awkward silence.

Sculptor Guðjón Ketilsson channels this nuance into his new exhibition, Jæja. He creates works of art out of ordinary or mundane objects and gives them a new context, so their meanings change. Traditionally, he has created works composed of found furniture that he has treated in his own unique way, finely polished wooden objects that look like little-seen useful objects in a museum, highly detailed drawings of body parts, houses and buildings of all kinds, a collection of junk that he has collected and arranged as a whole, photographs of arranged objects and clothing - all kinds of clothing carved in wood, such as

shoes, loincloths and hats.

Jæja will run from October 1 through mid-January at Kjarvalsstaðir.

THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ICELAND

The Making of a Nation Heritage and History in Iceland

The National Museum of Iceland’s permanent exhibition, Making of a Nation – Heritage and History in Iceland, is intended to provide insight into the history of the Icelandic nation from the settlement to the present day. The aim is to cast light

on the Icelanders’ past by placing the cultural heritage preserved by the National Museum in a historical context, guided by the question: what makes a nation? The exhibition includes about 2,000 objects dating from the Settlement Age to the present, as well as about 1,000 photographs from the 20th century. The exhibition is conceived as a journey through time: it begins with the ship in which mediaeval settlers crossed the ocean to their new home, and it ends in a modern airport, the Icelanders’ gateway to the world.

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Jóhannes S. Kjarval
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Guðjón Ketilsson

Saga of Hofstaðir, Unearthing the Past in North Iceland

At Hofstaðir, in the district of Lake Mývatn, North Iceland, extensive archaeological excavations have been carried out over the past three decades. The site includes remains from the Viking Age to the 20th century. A huge Viking-Age structure was excavated: a hall or longhouse where people gathered on social occasions, with other smaller buildings around it. The hall is one of the largest structures ever excavated in Iceland. In addition, a churchyard was excavated at Hofstaðir, which is one of the oldest churchyards unearthed in Iceland. Whole families were laid to rest in the cemetery, and their bones yield evidence about their lives. The face of one of the women buried at Hofstaðir has been reconstructed using DNA technology, and a drawing of her is included in the exhibition.

From mire to metal

In the past, iron smelting from bog iron was performed in Iceland. The use of metallurgical furnaces called bloomeries were used to smelt iron throughout the Middle Ages. Thereafter the practice steadily declined until it was completely abandoned in the 17th or 18th century. The knowledge of this ancient craftmanship has since been forgotten to time, leaving numerous questions about the bloomery process unanswered.

For a long time, scientists have attempted to answer questions about bloomery in Iceland. How was bog iron processed? How were bloomery furnaces constructed, isolated, and ignited? What quality of iron could be produced from Icelandic bog iron?

The exhibition From mire to metal explores bloomery research in Iceland. Bloomery experiments

were carried out at Eiríksstaðir, successfully smelting iron for the first time from Icelandic bogs in centuries.

In the eleventh hour

In the 1970s, only a few of Iceland’s turf houses were still inhabited. Having served as the primary form of housing for more than a thousand years, the Icelandic turf farm had now played out its role, and with no comprehensive preservation plan in sight, the remaining farms faced extinction. An Icelandic architecture student in Copenhagen set out and documented a representative selection of the Icelandic turf farms before it was too late. Working closely with the National Museum of Iceland and other parties to identify important subjects for their surveys,

summer after summer, students and teachers travelled around the country to measure and draw the unique Icelandic turf architecture as well as other buildings in danger of disappearing.

Offering a glimpse into life as a “measurer” in 1970s Iceland, the exhibition aims to give an insight into the expeditions and the invaluable source material that was derived from them. While Iceland’s neglected 19th century timber houses were measured as an integral part of their preservation and later restoration, most of the turf houses perished or fell into ruin. In many cases, the architecture schools’ documentation is the only existing source in relation to these buildings.

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Making of a Nation
MUSEUMS & EXHIBITIONS
nationalmuseum.is +354 530 2200 @thjodminjasafn The National Museum of Iceland Suðurgata 41, 102 Reykjavík Opening hours Daily 10-17 Closed on Mondays 16/9-30/4 W E LCOME TO T H E NATION A L MU S EUM OF ICEL A ND

ÁRBÆR OPEN AIR MUSEUM

Árbær was an established farm well into the 20th century, and the museum opened there in 1957. Árbær is now an open-air museum with more than 20 buildings which form a town square, a village and a farm. Most of the buildings have been relocated from central Reykjavik.Árbær Open Air Museum tries to give a sense of the architecture and way of life and lifestyles of the past in Reykjavík and during summer visitors can see domestic animals. There are many exhibitions and events held at the Museum, which highlight specific periods in Reykjavik’s history. These include craft days, vintage car displays, Christmas exhibitions and much more. There is something for everyone at Árbær Open Air Museum.

Karólína the Weaver Karólína Guðmundsdóttir (1897-1981) learned weaving in Copenhagen, and for several decades she ran a weaving atelier on Ásvallagata in Reykjavík. She wove upholstery and curtain fabrics for public bodies, businesses and homes, where the colours and textures harmonised with their surroundings. Her embroidery fabrics were used in school pupils‘ needlework projects for many years, and embroidered wall-hangings and cushions from Karólína‘s atelier adorned many Icelandic homes. She was thus an influence upon Icelanders‘ home furnishings

and taste. In addition, her work led people to recognise the fine qualities of Icelandic wool and changed attitudes to crafts and needlework.

Consumption - Reykjavík in the 20th century

The exhibition aims to show the huge and rapid changes that took place in consumption patterns in Reykjavík during the 20th century –to explore the factors that affected consumption, and how technical advances, government actions, wars, and events in Iceland and abroad influenced the daily life of the people of Reykjavík.

EINAR JÓNSSON MUSEUM

This is a museum in the heart of Reykjavík that houses the work of Iceland’s first sculptor Einar Jónsson. The museum contains close to 300 artworks spanning a 60-year career: carvings from the artist’s youth, sculpture, paintings and drawings. A beautiful tree-clad garden adorned with 26 bronze casts of the artist’s works is located behind the museum. The task of the museum is to collect, preserve and display the work of Einar as well as to conduct research on his life and art.

THE SETTLEMENT EXHIBITION

The Settlement Exhibition

An open excavation where Viking ruins meet multimedia technology. Just below ground in downtown Reykjavík, this open excavation uncovers the city’s Viking Age history. Discovered during building work in 2001, these archaeological remains turned out to be the earliest evidence of human settlement in the city, with some dating to before AD 872. Careful excavation revealed a 10th-century hall or longhouse, which is now preserved in its original location as the focal point of the exhibition. Interactive technology immerses you in the world of the Reykjavík farm at the time of the first settlers, including information on how Viking Age buildings were constructed and what life was like in the hall. The Settlement Exhibition is part of Reykjavík City Museum.

AÐALSTRÆTI 10

Aðalstræti ...and the story continues

Family-friendly and informative exhibition about the development of Reykjavík, from farm to city. This new display is a direct continuation of The Settlement

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Einar Jónsson Museum Árbær Open Air Museum

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITIONS

Exhibition, representing Reykjavík’s history from settlement to the present day. Visitors get an insight into the complex history and culture of Reykjavík through the development of house construction and planning with a stop at the oldest house in the city centre, Aðalstræti 10.

The admission is valid to both Aðalstræti 10 and The Settlement Exhibition in Aðalstræti 16.

REYKJAVIK MUSEUM OF PHOTOGRAPHY

Elvar Örn Kjartansson: The System

Elvar Örn’s carefully considered collection of photographs presents images of industrial plant machinery, engineering works, treatment plants and other functional infrastructure. All the stuff you never see, or even think of unless it breaks. Photographed with a clinical and utilitarian approach, these are the spaces upon which our civilisation rests. An interesting and thought provoking show.

Daniel Bergmann: Falcons

The exhibition Fálkar/Falcons showcases a selection of photographs from Daníel Bergmann‘s book Fálkinn (The Gyrfalcon), published in Icelandic in October 2022. The book is the fruit of more than two decades of fieldwork by the photographer in

the gyrfalcon territory in northeast Iceland. He photographed gyrfalcons at all seasons of the year; among other things, he observed one remarkably fine female through most of her life over a period of 15 years.

REYKJAVIK ART MUSEUM HAFNARHÚS

Norður og niður

Translated as Up and Down, this exhibition focuses on contemporary art in the Nordic region and features the work of around 30 artists from the Nordic region, Iceland, Canadian coastal areas, and the Pacific Northwest in the U.S. The artwork relay ideas related to the North: popular perceptions, climate change and environmental crisis, and the painful history of colonization of Indigenous peoples. The exhibition is a collaboration between three art museums: the Portland Museum of Art in the state of Maine in the USA, the Bildmuseet in Umeå in Sweden and the Reykjavík Art Gallery in Iceland. There, 30 artists show new works that deal with the changes that are taking place in society, nature and life in the Arctic at the beginning of the 21st century, and which are largely caused by climate change. The exhibition travels between partners from February 2022 to October 2023. It opens at Hafnarhús on October 13.

Sigurður Guðjónsson

Video artist Sigurður Guðjónsson will represent Iceland at the 2022 international curated exhibition Venice Biennale. Known for his voluminous video works where image, sound and space form an unbroken whole, Sigurður has made a name for himself in Iceland as one of the leading contemporary artists. He mainly focuses on the functionality of various equipment, Daniel Bergmann

where the viewer is lured into a world of soothing repetition, rhythm and order, and the boundaries between the human and the mechanical become blurred.

Sigurður Guðjónsson was born in 1975 in Reykjavík. He studied at Billedskolen in Copenhagen 19981999, Iceland Academy of Arts 2000-2003 BA and Akademie Der Bildenden Kunste in Vienna 2004. He was chosen Visual Artist of the Year 2018.

The exhibition in Hafnarhús, which opens on October 20, presents the artist’s new and older works that introduce Sigurðar’s unique artistic creation to the audience.

Erró: Freehand

In this exhibition on the 3rd floor some of Erró’s early works, where freehand line and form are foregrounded, meet later collagedbased works that source, freely mix and quote found visual material. Through them it is possible to follow Erró’s curiousity and quest in developing his collage-painting method, or visual quotation; a practice he continues to this day. A sense of restless, dynamic ability to entangle and change resonates in the human or human-like forms that move across the two-dimensional surfaces. In these works, these forms evolve over time – first as loosely, energetically drawn images from Erró’s imagination and then as layered collaged references that directly represent and rely on different print sources and places.

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Find more articles like this at www.whatson.is Erró
Experience the amazing Langjökull glacier from the inside A rare, once in a lifetime opportunity Find us: #intotheglacier www.intotheglacier.is Daily departures from Húsafell center and Reykjavík
Fish • Lamb • Whale • Icelandic cuisine with a twist Icelandic music and nightlife Mix with the locals ...and all the Icelandic beers in one awsome place! INGÓLFSSTRÆTI 1A 101 REYKJAVÍK www.islenskibarinn.is postur@islenskibarinn.is sími: 517 6767

THE ICELANDIC PUNK MUSEUM

The Icelandic Punk Museum is located at Bankastræti 0, an underground location that served as public toilets from 1930 to 2006. The museum honours the music and the spirit that has shaped musi cians and bands to this day; people who dared to be different. Objects, photographs, videos, posters, etc. from roughly 1978 to 1992 are on display with texts in Icelandic and English, and the main music from the period is available to guests.

HOUSE OF COLLECTIONS

National Treasures

The National Gallery of Iceland’s collection contains over eleven thousand works. In the exhibition Treasures of a Nation, a selection of works from the collection displays the evolution of art in Iceland from the early nineteenth century to our times.

Resistance, Interplay of art and physics

Resistance is an interdisciplinary exhibition that bridges the gap between visual arts and science. The works on display are key works in the collection of the National Gallery of Iceland, that establish an interesting dialogue between art and science and the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals.

The Ocean

The ocean is all around in an exhibition on level 2 at the House of Collections on Hverfisgata, Reykjavík, where the treasures of Icelandic art are on display. Visitors now have the opportunity to experience works that relate to the seas, and to the discourse on sustainability.

Welcome to Jómfrúin, the home of Danish smørrebrød in Reykjavik. It all began in 1888 with Oscars Davidsen’s highly praised smørrebrød restaurant in Copenhagen. An unbroken tradition of quality and Danish culinary culture for the past 100 years. Enjoy!

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MUSEUMS & EXHIBITIONS
Punk Museum
Open
|
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every day 11:00 - 22:00
Lækjargata 4 | 101 Reykjavík
jomfruin.is

ÁRBÆR OPEN AIR MUSEUM

REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM

Reykjavík’s only open air museum, where you can stroll through the past and experience the way we lived. Fun, fascinating and full of surprises, this living museum takes you on a journey through time. Guided tours at 13:00 all year round.

Kistuhylur, Reykjavík 411-6304 | reykjavikcitymuseum.is Hours: Daily 13-17

THE SETTLEMENT EXHIBITION REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM

An open excavation where Viking ruins meet digital technology. Just below ground in downtown Reykjavík, this open excavation uncovers the city’s Viking Age history. Discovered during building work, then carefully excavated, these remnants of the past are the earliest evidence of human settlement in the city.

Aðalstræti 10 & 16, Reykjavík | 411-6370 www.reykjavikcitymuseum.is Hours: Daily 10-17

AÐALSTRÆTI 10 REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM

The city’s oldest house, built in 1762 houses an exhibition detailing the history of Reykjavík, and the daily life of the people who inhabited it, continuing where the nearby Settlement Exhibition leaves off.

Aðalstræti 10, 101 Reykjavík 411 6300 | www.borgarsogusafn.is

REYKJAVIK CITY LIBRARY

FREE ENTRY Looking for a place to hang out, browse the internet, get access to Wi-Fi or meet the Reykjavik locals? Then Reykjavik City Library is the perfect place to visit. Have a seat and dip into the latest magazine or relax while checking out their great selection of books.

Tryggvagata 15, Reykjavík 411-6100 | borgarbokasafn.is Hours: Mon-Thu: 10-16, Fri 11-16

REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM

A harbour museum exploring Iceland’s dramatic relationship with the sea. The survival of a nation depended on generations of brave fishermen heading into the unknown. Exhibitions and artefacts bring our ocean history to life. Guided tours of Óðinn Coast Guard Vessel: 10-17.

Grandagarður 8, Reykjavík | 411-6340 www.reykjavikcitymuseum.is

EINAR JÓNSSON MUSEUM

A museum with indoor and outdoor exhibitions dedicated to the work of Einar Jónsson Iceland’s first modern sculptor (1874-1954). The museum was built in the early 1900’s when Einar Jónsson offered all of his works as a gift to the Icelandic nation.

Hallgrímstorg 3, Reykjavík 551-3797 | www.lej.is Hours: Tue-Sun 12-17

VIÐEY ISLAND

REYKJAVÍK

CITY MUSEUM

An island, where art, history and nature lie just beyond the city shore. The combination of stunning views, historical ruins and contemporary art pieces make Viðey island something special. Just a short boat ride takes you to another world. Ferry Schedule: Weekends only.

Viðey Reykjavik 411-6356. www.reykjavikcitymuseum.is

WHALES OF ICELAND

An exhibition in Reykjavík consisting of 23 life-size whale models - fun to touch and explore. Learn more about whales with in-depth multimedia and interactive information displays, videos and audio guide in several languages mixed with soothing whale sounds and underwater ambient lighting.

Fiskislóð 23-25 , Reykjavík 571-0077 | www.whalesoficeland.is Hours: Daily 10-17

REYKJAVIK MUSEUM OF PHOTOGRAPHY

REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM

Reflecting the contemporary, while archiving the past – this is Reykjavík’s home of photography. Reykjavík’s main photography museum offers an ongoing programme of contemporary and historical exhibitions, and an onscreen archive of thousands of images from the past.

Tryggvagata 15, Reykjavík | 411-6390 reykjavikcitymuseum.is | Hours: MonThu 10-18, Fri 11-18, Sat & Sun 13-17

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Keflavík Airport to Reykjavík City and/or vice versa 3.499 ISK Transfers The Flybus operates in connection with all arriving & departing flights at Keflavík International Airport. All flights 45 min Free WiFi For our flexible Flybus schedule, please visit www.flybus.is Prices & availability are subject to change without notice. Over 100 tours & activities on re.is BSÍ Bus Terminal - City Centre •101 Reykjavík HAPPY HOLIDAYS HOLIDAY SEASON OPERATION 2022
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NATIONAL GALLERY OF ICELAND

Iceland's leading art museum, established in 1884. Its collection consists mainly of 19th, 20th and 21st century art. The National Gallery possesses a coherent array of Icelandic works and a fine collection of international art. Together they constitute around 11,000 items.

Fríkirkjuvegur 7, Reykjavík 515-9600 | www.listasafn.is

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ICELAND

Offers state-of-the-art exhibitions on the cultural history of Iceland. The permanent exhibition, Making of a Nation - Heritage and History of Iceland, gives a comprehensive picture of Iceland’s cultural history through the ages to the present day.

Suðurgata 41, Reykjavík 530-2200 | www.nationalmuseum.is Hours: Tue-Sun: 10-17

SIGURJÓN ÓLAFSSON MUSEUM

A museum that Icelandic sculptor Sigurjón Ólafsson’s wife founded as a tribute to his life and work in 1984. She had his studio in Laugarnes converted to an exhibition space to house his collection of works, including sculptures, sketches, drawings and biographical material.

Laugarnestangi 70 553-2906 | www.lso.is Hours: Tue-Sun 13-17

HOME OF AN ARTIST

One of the pioneers of Icelandic art and the first Icelander to take up painting professionally. Having died in 1958, he bequeathed all his works, as well as his studio home to the Icelandic nation.

Bergstaðastræti 74, Reykjavík 515-9625 www.listasafn.is Hours: Tue-Sun 10-17

THE ICELANDIC PHALLOLOGICAL MUSEUM

Probably the most unique museum you’ll visit on your trip, the Icelandic Phallological Museum is one of a kind. Here you’ll find a collection of more than two hundred penises and penile parts belonging to almost all land and sea mammals that can be found in Iceland.

Hafnartorg, Reykjavík 561-6663 | www.phallus.is Hours: Daily 10-19

AURORA REYKJAVIK

The Northern Lights Center, Aurora Reykjavik, allows you to experience the northern lights in a completely different way, both if you saw them, but as well if they escaped you while in Iceland. The centre features information, education and of course stunning visuals of the elusive lights that’ll get your heart racing.

Grandagarður 2, Reykjavík 780-4500 | www.aurorareykjavik.is Hours: Daily 9-21

PERLAN

This peculiar building, built on top of six water tanks on a hill overlooking the city, houses two exhibitions, The Wonders of Iceland and Water in Icelandic Nature. In addition, Perlan has a recently-opened planetarium, a café and gelateria, and an observation deck with a 360° view of the city and its surrounding nature.

Varmahlíð 1, Reykjavík 566-9000 | www.perlan.is Hours: 9-22

FLYOVER ICELAND

FlyOver Iceland utilises state-of-the-art technology to give you the feeling of flight. You will hang suspended, feet dangling, before a 20-metre spherical screen while the film whisks you away on an exhilarating journey across Iceland. Special effects, including wind, mist and scents, combine with the ride’s motion to create an unforgettable experience.

Fiskislóð 43, 101 Reykjavík. 527-6700. www.flyovericeland.is Hours: Mon-Fri, 11:00-19:00 & Sat-Sun, 11:00-19:00.

MUSEUM OF DESIGN AND APPLIED ART

Its objective is to collect, study and present Icelandic design and crafts from 1900 to the present day. This young museum, the only one of its kind in Iceland, holds regular exhibitions of Icelandic and international design during the year. Exhibitions from the museum‘s own collection are regularly held.

Garðatorg 1, Garðabær 512-1525 | www.honnunarsafn.is Hours: Tue-Sun 12-17

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KJARVALSSTAÐIR

Mainly devoted to paintings and sculpture by well-established Icelandic and international artists. Kjarvalsstaðir offers a permanent exhibition of key works by one of Iceland’s most beloved landscape painters, Jóhannes S. Kjarval, as well as changing exhibitions that explore various thematic and historical aspects of Icelandic art.

Flókagata 24, Reykjavík 411-6420 | www.artmuseum.is Hours: Daily 10-17

ÁSMUNDARSAFN

Opened in 1983, the collection is housed in a unique building designed and constructed mostly by the artist himself from 1942-1950. The original building served Sveinsson as studio and home; behind it he built a crescent-shaped structure as a work and exhibition space.

Sigtún, Reykjavík 411-6430 | www.artmuseum.is Hours: Daily 10-17

The old harbour warehouse, Hafnarhús, offers a progressive exhibition program with local and international contemporary artists. The work of current notables, art canons and newcomers is presented in six galleries. Hafnarhús is also home to the works of Erró (b. 1932), a significant player in the international pop art scene.

Tryggvagata 17, Reykjavík 411-6400 | www.artmuseum.is Hours: Daily 10-17, Thu 10-22

GLJÚFRASTEINN -

LAXNESS MUSEUM

Halldór Laxness is arguably the most famous Icelandic writer of all time, and the only Icelander to have won a Nobel Prize, which he received for literature in 1955. Gljúfrasteinn was his home until his death, and today it is a museum dedicated to his life and work.

Gljúfrasteinn, Mosfellsbær 586-8066 | www.gljufrasteinn.is Hours: Tue-Fri 10-17

HAFNARBORG

FREE ENTRY Hafnarborg has a collection of Icelandic art and regular exhibitions presenting leading Icelandic and international artists. Collection exhibitions are a regular part of the program. Around exhibitions are workshops and guided tours.

Strandgata 34, Hafnarfjörður 585-5790 | www.hafnarborg.is Hours: 12-17, closed on Tuesdays

THE LIVING ART MUSEUM

An active exhibition space that has organized many exciting exhibitions throughout the years. They put an emphasis on introducing young Icelandic artists, as well as showcasing work by better-known Icelandic and foreign modern and contemporary artists.

The Marshall House Grandagarður 20, Reykjavík 551-4350 | www.nylo.is Hours: Wed-Sun: 12-18

GERÐARSAFN

A progressive modern art museum in Kópavogur, dedicated to sculptor Gerður Helgadóttir; the only museum in Iceland dedicated to a woman. Its collection consists of more than 1,400 works by Gerður, as well as the works of the most celebrated Icelandic artists of the 20th and 21st century.

Hamraborg 4, Kópavogur 441-7600 | www.gerdarsafn.is Hours: Tue-Sun 10-17

HOUSE OF COLLECTIONS

House of collections was built in 1906 and for most of the 20th century served as the country’s National Library. The stately building currently houses the National Gallery’s exhibition Treasures of a Nation, displaying works from the Gallery’s extensive collection depicting Iceland’s art history from the early 19th century to our times.

Hverfisgata 15, Reykjavík 515-9600 | www.listasafn.is Hours: Daily 10-17

THE NORDIC HOUSE

Iceland maintains strong ties to other Nordic countries, and the center of this cooperation is the Nordic House, designed by acclaimed Finnish architect Alvar Aalto in 1968. The Nordic House is the venue if you want to enjoy the best of Icelandic culture as well as experiencing rich culture of the Nordic countries.

Sturlugata 5, Reykjavík 551-7030 | www.nordice.is Hours: Tue-Sun: 10-17

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ART & CULTURE
Find more recommendations on www.whatson.is

Laxnes Horse Farm is a family run business and the oldest tour operator in Iceland. Founded in 1968, the farm offers horseback riding tours all year round for travelers interested in the gentle Icelandic horse.

www.laxnes.is info@laxnes.is +354 566 6179 BOOK YOUR TOUR HERE

peckish after a few glasses of their delicious wines, they also serve snacks and small plates. The cosy bar is perfect for having a few glasses of wines with friends or a date.

Laugavegur 27, Reykjavík 888-2380

If you are visiting Iceland for the first time then you must stop by the Lebowski Bar. Open every day from 11AM, happy hour from 4-7PM, food served until 10PM, Quiz every Thursday (free entry), live sport events on 5 HD screens and Reykjavik nightlife every Friday & Saturday.

Laugavegur 20a, Reykjavík 552-2300 www.lebowski.is

Beer enthusiasts look no further! near the top of Laugavegur, the city’s main shopping street, you will find Micro Bar. This ambitious bar serves only beer from microbreweries! Carrying an impressive 140 different kinds of beers from all over the world, this is definitely the go-to place for beer fans, and a nice place to spend an evening.

Laugavegur 86, Reykjavík

EINSTÖK

There’s nothing like an Einstök beer after a long day of exploring Reykjavíkand now there’s a whole bar dedicated to this popular brew! Einstök literally means unique and after a few sips of their refreshing craft ale, brewed with fresh water from Northern Iceland, we’re sure you’ll agree. The recently opened Laugavegur bar makes it even easier to enjoy their variety of ales, ranging from citrusy fresh white to the darkest of porters.

Laugavegur 10, Reykjavík

PORT 9

Port 9 wine bar is a hidden gem just off the main shopping street. Serving selected wines and a unique blend of appetizers made with the freshest seasonal ingredients, Port 9 is one of the best spots in the city to stop by for a glass of quality wine in a relaxed atmosphere.

Veghúsastígur 9, Reykjavík 897-8212 www.port9.is

VEÐUR

This cozy little bar is named after the Icelandic word for weather, Icelanders’ conversation topic of choice in most situations. Offering a selection of wine, beer, and cocktails, Veður is a great spot for hanging out with friends, and the large windows make it ideal for people-watching over a drink.

Klapparstígur 33, Reykjavík www.vedurbarinn.is

LOFT HOSTEL

This hostel café/bar is bright and spacious; the perfect place to start the night. The hall hosts events most nights and on summer afternoons, the balcony is the best place in town for a beer in the sun. Last but not least, Loft has the best foosball table of all the bars in the city centre.

Bankastræti 7, Reykjavík 553-8140

KIKI - QUEER BAR

Kiki is the only queer bar in town these days but it is also the best one! If you’re worried you won’t find the place, don’t be. The rainbow coloured street entrance, stream of people in a dancing mood, and the far-off sound of dance-heavy beats should lead you where you want to go!

Laugavegur 22 www.kiki.is

RÖNTGEN

In the early 20th century, Hverfisgata 12 was home to the country’s first X-ray clinic. Today, the building houses one of the city’s newest bars but the name pays homage to the building’s long history. Expect cocktails, natural wines, and the city’s artsiest crowd having a night out.

Hverfisgata 12, Reykjavík www. www.rontgenbar.is

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THE IRISHMAN PUB

An Irish-style pub in downtown Reykjavík. Happy hour every day from 12PM to 7PM! Guests can enjoy a game of darts, listen to live music Thursday to Sunday evenings, spin the wheel of fortune and you can even book a private karaoke room! Sláinte. Klapparstígur 27, Reykjavík 581-2020 www.irishman.is

One of the coolest bars in Reykjavik these days is Kaldi Bar. In close cooperation with north Icelandic micro brewery of the same name, Kaldi offers you a selection of craft brewed beers on tap. Great happy hour and great fun, Kaldi is a place not to be missed!

Laugavegur 20b, Reykjavík 581-2200

AMERICAN BAR

American Bar is named appropriately since it’s an American Bar in Reykjavík, of the kind you’re probably familiar with from other countries: there are dudes, chicks and random university students partying to the latest MTV tunes. They specialize in American culture and entertainment.

Austurstræti 8, Reykjavík 571-9999

PETERSEN SVÍTAN

Built in 1926 as an apartment, the Petersen Suite is one of Reykjavík’s hidden gems. Take the elevator up to the third floor above the historic Gamla Bíó concert hall to reveal an elegant bar with one of Reykjavík’s best views. On sunny days, you need to get there early, the sunny patio fills up quickly!

Ingólfsstræti 2a 3rd floor, Reykjavík 563-4000 | www.ktf.is

UPPI BAR

Uppi Bar offers upscale dining, wine and cocktails. The name Uppi refers to its location, upstairs above the renowned Fish Market Restaurant. You can expect the same exquisite attention to detail and delicious food, but in a casual bar setting, perfect for happy hour or a fancy start to a night out.

DEN DANSKE KRO

This homey pub with a Danish theme is popular among locals. Happy hour every day from 4-7pm and live music with talented Icelandic musicians every night. Beer bingo every month and other fun events! Located in the heart of the city centre.

Ingólfsstræti 3, Reykjavík 552-0070 www.danski.is

Best known as Damon Albarn’s hangout place back in the day, this most famous bar in Iceland is a popular destination for the artsy crowd. During the week it‘s more of a café, but on the weekend the volume rises and KB becomes one of the hottest bars in Reykjavik.

Bergstaðastræti 1, Reykjavík 551-1588 www.kaffibarinn.is

the newly established Club Sólon is booming with music, dancing, cocktails and drinks on two floors until 4AM in the morning. Start your evening on the cozy 1st floor lounge area with 2-for-1 cocktails and then dance the night away with the local crowd.

Bankastræti 7a, Reykjavík 562-3232

THE ENGLISH PUB

A popular pub in city centre. The English Pub offers happy hour every day from 4-7pm, live music every night, wheel of fortune and all major sport events are shown on 6 HD screens. Special events: Open Mic Tuesday, Guinness Thursday and Whisky Sunday.

Austurstræti 12, Reykjavík 578-0400 facebook.com/enskibarinn

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SÆTA SVÍNIÐ / Hafnarstræti 1-3 / Tel. 555 2900 / saetasvinid.is 990 1.690 HAPPIEST HAPPY HOUR IN REYKJAVÍK ICE L A N D I C G A S T ROP U B

THE STEAK HOUSE

A restaurant opposite the old harbour that offers traditional steak dishes along with some exciting and fairly unorthodox choices. The pride and joy of The Steakhouse is the Mibrasa charcoal oven, a rare oven that is designed to cook the perfect steak by mixing modern technology with ancient tradition.

Tryggvagata 4-6, Reykjavík 561-1111 | www.steik.is

NAUTHÓLL

Looking out over the Nauthólsvík beach, this charming Scandinavianinspired bistro is the perfect oasis from the stress of the everyday. Whether you’re there for a light lunch, a glass of wine on a sunny afternoon, a cup of hot coffee on a cold one, or a lovely dinner with a loved one, Nauthóll is the place to go.

Nauthólsvegi 106, 101 Reykjavík 599-6660 | www.nautholl.is

GRANDI MATHÖLL

Grandi Mathöll is a must visit for foodies. Situated in the hip Grandi area, the European style food hall has everything from fresh salmon ceviche to Vietnamese spring rolls and Korean tacos. Right next door is one of Iceland’s busiest harbours, and visitors can see a feed of live ship arrivals.

Grandagarður 16, Reykjavík 577-6200 | www.grandimatholl.is

DUCK & ROSE

This trendy restaurant overlooking Austurvöllur square serves light and delicious food, inspired by French and Italian cuisine. The duck dishes are highly recommended but whatever you do, don’t forget to order one of their expertly mixed cocktails!

THE ICELANDIC BAR

The Icelandic Bar is very aptly named: it is an Icelandic bar. But more than that, it is a bar that aims to preserve the essence of being Icelandic by

THE LAUNDROMAT CAFE

Situated right downtown in Austurstræti, Laundromat houses laundry facilities and a family-friendly environment. A spacious recreational room downstairs will keep your children busy while you’re chomping on the bistro menu. Whether it’s brunch, board games or beer you’re looking for, Laundromat should have you covered.

Austurstræti 9, Reykjavík

restaurant institution at this point, having opened in 1979. Situated in downtown Reykjavík, it was the first Italian restaurant in town and is as strong as ever. Expect fresh pizza, made right in front of the guests in the open kitchen. The cosy place is also a decent spot for people watching, with its large windows.

Hafnarstræti 15, Reykjavík 551-3340 I www.hornid.is

of British and Icelandic culture, with fresh, quality Icelandic fish served in the traditional British way. You can even get mushy peas and malt vinegar with it! Festing on hot fish and chips while looking over the old harbour is an unbeatable Reykjavík experience.

Between the Reykjavík Maritime Museum and Reykjavík Marina Hotel 840-4100 | fishandchipsvagninn.is

SPÁNSKI BARINN

Situated just off Laugavegur, the Spanish style bodega Spánski barinn offers fresh tapas and a quality wine selection. In a dim and cosy basement, guests can enjoy a quality happy hour chock full of wines from Tempranillo to Rioja, as well as a house red on tap.

Ingólfsstræti 8, Reykjavík 832-8881

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WINING & DINING
MarinaHotel
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Geirsgata

FORRÉTTABARINN

Tasty tapas with an Icelandic twist. With a new spin on traditional Icelandic cuisine and an extensive selection of local beer, Forréttabarinn – “The Starters Bar” – is worth seeking out when you need a bite to eat or a place to start your night out in Reykjavík. Whatever you choose from the refreshingly creative menu, you’re in for a treat!

Nýlendugata 14, Reykjavík 517-1800 |

FORSETINN

Feeling presidential? Why not sit down for a powerful beverage (hot or cold) or even a light meal fit for a president in the cosy retro atmosphere on the city’s main street. Forsetinn (Icelandic for President) is a versatile spot - café, bistro, and bar - perfect for people watching at any time of the day.

JÓMFRÚIN

An open-sandwich restaurant in the Danish tradition offering authentic Danish smørrebrød along with a selection of hot dishes. The restaurant is located in the heart of the city centre and seats 80 guests. It is a popular lunch venue, especially with people from the business sector.

Lækjargata 4, Reykjavík 551-0100 www.jomfruin.is

KRYDD is an à la carte restaurant that offers a dinner and lunch menu, along with appetizers and a state of the art cocktailbar. On Sundays, it offers a brunch buffet between 11:00 AM - 3:00 PM.

Hafnarborg, Strandgötu 34, Hafnarfjörður www.kryddveitingahus.is Open: M-T 11-23, F-S, 11-01, S 11-23

SÓLON BISTRO & BAR

Sólon offers seafood, lamb, salmon, salads, hamburgers and juicy steaks, as well as a delicious fish of the day. Sólon resides in a beautiful old building on the main shopping street with high & wide windows, perfect for people watching! Local beer, wine, coffee, cocktails, and Black Death are served at Sólon Bistro & Bar.

Bankastræti 7a, Reykjavík 562-3232 | www.solon.is

YUZU

The east-Asian citrus fruit was a stranger to Icelandic palates until a few years ago and now there’s a whole burger place dedicated to its aromatic sourness. This upscale burger joint will keep your belly full and your taste buds delighted with an array of burgers, cocktails and even a signature brew. Vegan options available!

Hverfisgata 44, Reykjavík

Hlemmur Mathöll is a European style food hall featuring global delicacies alongside tasty Icelandic dishes. A former bus station, Hlemmur is now the new home for gourmands and fast food lovers alike in Reykjavík. Hlemmur brims with life on both weekends and weekdays alike, so head on down to see what the fuss is about.

Laugavegur, Reykjavík 787-6200 | www.hlemmurmatholl.is

REYKJAVÍK MEAT STEAKHOUSE

As the name suggests, Reykjavík Meat is the city’s newest new steakhouse. The food is cooked over coals giving it a delicious flavour, and crowning their menu is the award-winning sashi marbled beef. They also offer seafood, lamb and vegetarian and vegan dishes, as well as delicious cocktails!

Frakkastígur 8, Reykjavík 557-7665 | www.rvkmeat.is

BÆJARINS BEZTU

Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur literally means The Town’s Best Hot Dogs. A must try while visiting, it is the perfect on-the-go food. We dare you to time the hot dog artists at Bæjarins Beztu after you order ‘ein með öllu’ (one with everything). They are incredibly quick to make a concoction of raw onions, fried onions, ketchup, remoulade, Icelandic mustard and the dog itself.

Tryggvagata 1, 101 Reykjavík 511-1566 | www.bbp.is

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LA PRIMAVERA

One of Iceland’s most treasured restaurants has made a comeback. The Italian delicacies of La Primavera are here to stay. Situated in the Marshall building, a former fishing warehouse, the building is also home to an art gallery, an art studio and the Living Art Museum.

Grandagarður 20 & Harpa Concert hall, Reykjavík 519-7766 www.laprimavera.is

BASTARD

This Irish-bar looking restaurant is one of the city’s best places to sit down for a quick lunch and end up whiling away a whole afternoon in the cosy booth while the game is on or on the sunny patio. The weekend-bottomless brunch is particularly popular. so make sure to get a reservation!

Vegamótastígur 4, Reykjavík 558-0800 www.bastardbrewandfood.is

PUBLIC HOUSE

This Laugavegur gastropub is a great place to treat yourself to a a dinner and some drinks with friends, old and new. With a delicious menu of Asian-fusion inspired small plates to share and an even more delicious menu of cocktails, Public House is a recipe for a fun evening. If you want a fun morning or a fun afternoon instead, check out their bottomless brunch!

Laugavegur 24, 101 Reykjavík www.publichouse.is

KOPAR

Kopar is a restaurant by the old harbour in Reykjavik which has an emphasis on adventure and experience in a brasserie setting. Their menu is composed of various locally sourced ingredients from sea and land, and aims to give you a taste of Iceland in a single evening.

Geirsgata 3, Reykjavík 567-2700 www.koparrestaurant.is

A fun restaurant, with the look and feel of an American Diner. Reasonably priced, offering delicious food and a very good service, you‘ll definitely get great value for your money here. They put a special emphasis on using only high quality ingredients, making for a terrific meal.

Laugavegur 96, Reykjavík 527-5000 www.grillhusid.is

BREWDOG

Hop lovers, rejoice! UK’s Craft Beer Phenomenon just opened a bar and restaurant in downtown Reykjavik, located at the corner of Hverfisgata and Frakkastigur. Featuring 20 taps including BrewDog’s headliners, seasonals and one off brews as well as great local Icelandic craft beers. Highly impressive food menu and a very cosy atmosphere.

Frakkastígur 8, Reykjavík www.brewdog.com

Monkeys is an exciting restaurant offering Nikkei cuisine, a fusion of Japanese recipes and traditions with Peruvian ingredients. Exciting flavours of miso, ginger, soy, wasabi, and rice vinegar are mixed with quinoa, bell peppers, Andean potatoes, and corn, in a beautiful setting that creates just the right atmosphere. A great addition to the Reykjavík culinary scene!

Klapparstígur 30, 101 Reykjavík 519-5350 | www.monkeys.is

FISH COMPANY

Quality, fusion and fun are the Fish Company’s main characteristics. The interior is stylish and the quirky tableware fits in wonderfully. The menu is a world of adventures from starters to deserts. It’s designed to take you on a seafood journey and not only a journey of the Icelandic culinary waters but a trip around the world.

Vesturgata 2a, Reykjavík 552-5300 | www.fiskfelagid.is

Head out to Brauð & Co. to get your hands on the scrumptious sourdough bread and tasty cinnamon buns. The early bird gets the worm, so don't be late! Keep in mind that the queue can get quite long, but it's well worth it.

Opens early, closes at 18:00.

Frakkastígur 16, Reykjavík Fákafen 11, Reykjavík www.braudogco.is

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IF YOU NEED MORE INFO, CONTACT INFO@WHATSON.IS

HOW TO ...

TAKE THE BUS

Strætó is the Icelandic bus company, and their yellow buses are easy to spot around the city. In November 2021, Strætó introduced the KLAPP payment system in their buses. You have three ways to pay. With a top up KLAPP card, with the KLAPP app, and with KLAPP ten, a bus pass with ten tickets. You can buy KLAPP cards and KLAPP ten at selected gas stations, convenience stores, museums, and swimming pools. For more information, go to https://www.klappid.is/en/sales

GET TO THE AIRPORT

Iceland’s international airport is located in Keflavík, about 50km from Reykjavík. If you rent a car or take a cab, it will take about 45 minutes to get to Reykjavík. A cheaper but just as reliable option is taking a bus to and from the airport. They connect to flights and will drop you off or pick you up at bus stops close to your accommodation in Reykjavík.

GET MONEY

Iceland has its own currency, the Icelandic króna (ISK). It’s best to get króna at any bank (open Monday to Friday, 9-4), including the one at the Keflavík International Airport (open 24/7). You can either exchange money or go to an ATM to get cash. Credit card and debit card payments are widely accepted in Iceland.

PARK IN THE CITY CENTRE

There are different parking zones which charge different rates. Look for a parking sign (the familiar big P) indicating zones 1-4 and parking garages. Look for the nearest black terminal to pay, with cash or card, and type in your car’s number plate, no ticket necessary!

MAKE CALLS

Getting an Icelandic SIM card is easy, you can get them at the airport, phone companies, and, of course, the What’s On tourist information centre at Laugavegur 5.

GO SWIMMING

There are 18 swimming pools in the capital area and if you have the time, you should try them all. Swimming is great, but don’t miss relaxing in the hot tubs – this is where the community gathers and socialises. If you haven’t packed a bathing suit, you can rent one at the pool.

Visit What’s On at Laugavegur 5 or contact us at info@whatson.is.

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PRACTICAL INFORMATION
TEL: +354 571 1100 - Skólavörðustígur 14, 101 Reykjavík - www.sjavargrillid.is

Meet some of Iceland’s finest designers

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BOO ALSOTRYWHALE WATCHING WE GO THE EXTRA MILE GOLD CLASS ENV RONMENTAL UM V R SF O KU Ó CERTIFIED TRAVEL SERV CE +354-560-8800 specialtours.is info@specialtours.is New Special Tours Iceland multilingual app FROM REYKJAVIK NORTHERN LIGHTS BY BOAT THE ORIGINAL
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