What's On in Reykjavík - December 2023 by MD Reykjavik

December 2023

IN REYKJAVÍK

REYKJAVÍK’S LEADING GUIDE TO INFORMATION, EVENTS, MUSEUMS, AND GALLERIES SINCE 1982

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Visit us during your stay in Iceland for information and tour bookings.

Laugavegur 5 | Laugavegur 54 www.whatson.is | +354 551-3600

The What’s On Iceland tourist information and booking centres are located in downtown Reykjavík.

B O O KI N G

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FROM THE EDITOR 4-67

REYKJAVÍK CITY MAP

50-51

EVENTS

68-83

ART & CULTURE

84-88

PUBS & NIGHTLIFE

90-91

WINING & DINING

93-95

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

What’s On Information Centre, Laugavegur 5.

Welcome to Reykjavík!

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Map of Reykjavík: Friðrik Bjarnason Editor: Erik Pomrenke, erik@whatson.is Content writers: The What’s On Team Ad sales: Sigurþór Marteinn, sm@whatson.is

WHAT’S ON — VOLUME 41 — ISSUE 12 Published by: MD Reykjavík ehf. Laugavegur 5, 101 Reykjavik. Tel.: 551-3600 Contact us: info@whatson.is Publisher: Kjartan Þorbjörnsson Distribution: nora@whatson.is Tel.: 830-3629

Well, the Reykjanes peninsula has gone and done it again. We’re sure that you’ve seen the previous tourist-friendly “campfires” from recent years. But where Fagradalsfjall, Meradalir, and Litli-Hrútur all brought travelers and influencers flocking, cameras and drones close at hand, our latest volcano is a bit less friendly, having already displaced the entire population of Grindavík, a community of some 3,700 people. Whatever happens in the coming days and weeks, it’s already been a historic event. The event is unlikely to affect the capital area in a significant way, but we hope it goes without saying that travelers should do their best to stay safe and informed. With those caveats out of the way, travelers to Iceland in December are in for a real treat. December, after all, is the fun part of winter! As the Christmas lights start going up already at the beginning of November, the whole town starts getting ready for the holiday season, and the twinkling lights have a way of brightening up the ever-darkening days. Spending time with family, eating good food, and curling up with a good book are all the name of the game this time of year. And even after Christmas is over, there’s still plenty to look forward to. New Year’s Eve in Reykjavík is a special experience, with the entire night sky lighting up for hours up to the strike of the clock as Icelanders and visitors crowd around the city’s many bonfires. If the winter can be a little dark and cold at times, Icelanders have a way of perfecting their way of celebrating that brings light and cheer even into the dark and cold. So while there’s reason to be informed and safe this travel season, there’s also plenty of reason to celebrate and be grateful.

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WHAT‘S ON IN REYKJAVÍK is published monthly, covering events and happenings in and around Reykjavík. Opinions expressed in WHAT‘S ON IN REYKJAVÍK are those of the individual authors. While every effort has been made to ensure the information presented is accurate, prices, times, dates and other information may be subject to change.

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THE WHAT’S ON CHECKLIST December might seem like a dark month to visit Iceland but it’s actually one of the brightest times of the year – at least in terms of events! String lights and candles light up the lingering darkness and the Icelandic Christmas traditions thaw the cold weather. Do it like the Icelanders and kick off the festivities with a delicious local Christmas beer. Merry Christmas or “Gleðileg jól” in Icelandic! Here are What’s On’s tips for this month: Visit the Christmas village in Hafnarfjörður for some delicious Glögg! Have a date night on Ingólfstorg Square and go ice skating beneath the sparkling lights. Zipline on a glacier for the ultimate winter thrill! Go to a local brewery and try all of the different Christmas beers (at your own risk!) Check out the New Year’s Eve bonfires and properly say goodbye to 2023! Visit one of many Christmas concerts and soak up the festive atmosphere. Participate in the “Christmas Book Flood” and cozy up with the latest best-seller!

While you’re checking things off the list, snap some photos and tag #whatsonrvk on Instagram.

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If Garden Gnomes Could Talk photo exhibition 16.9.2023 - 12.2.2024

The National Museum of Iceland Suðurgata 41, 102 Reykjavík Opening Hours Daily 10-17

www. nationalmuseum.is +354 530 2200 @thjodminjasafn

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So you’re in Iceland, taking in the sights and everything else this magnificent country has to offer. Why not share it with the world? Tag your photos #WhatsOnRvk and you might be featured in our magazine next month! Browse the entire What’s On catalogue at www.whatson.is.

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ONE OF THE FOOD WONDERS OF THE WORLD ICELANDIC LAMB IS THE FIRST ICELANDIC FOOD PRODUCT TO BE PDO-MARKED Icelandic lamb has acquired the PDO label, the highest level of geographical indication in Europe, placing it in the company of the world's best-known and most sought-after quality products.

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WHAT TO DO IF YOU ONLY HAVE ONE DAY TO SPEND IN ICELAND

Our first piece of advice if you have just one day to spend in Iceland is to change your flight and stay for at least a week. If that’s not an option, here’s what we suggest to get the most out of this unique destination in such a short time. If you just want to see the highlights

The Golden Circle is the most popular day tour from Reykjavík – and it’s easy to see why. The classic route includes three stops that also happen to be three of the most captivating natural wonders in Iceland. Tour operators may add their own twists, but you’re sure to stop at Þingvellir, a national park straddling the rift between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates; Gullfoss, an awe-inspiring waterfall that lends its name to the Golden Circle (gull translates to gold); and the Geysir geothermal area, with an erupting hot spring guaranteed to impress. You can complete the Golden Circle in half a day (depending on the tour you book), leaving you time to squeeze more into your short stay.

If you want to visit the newest lava field

The Reykjanes peninsula reminds us for the second year running why Iceland is known as the Land of Fire and Ice. The Meradalir eruption began on August 3rd and lasted until around August 22, 2022. The site of the eruption is an hour’s drive south of the capital and accessible to anyone that can handle a four to five-hour hike. There is also of course the birds-eye view option by helicopter or light aircraft. While the eruption is over, you can still marvel at the

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youngest lava field in Iceland and admire nature’s fury first-hand. But please don’t walk on the young lava fields! Lava takes years to fully cool, so there may be molten lava just beneath the seemingly solid surface. Check out the what’s on Iceland website, www.whatson.is for up-to-date info.

If you want to see a glacier

There’s no better way to get a feel for the latter half of Iceland’s “Land of Fire and Ice” moniker than to go on a glacier hike. Glacier hikes are relatively easy and accessible for most, especially because professional gear is provided. You get to walk on a glacier with guides who know everything there is to know about glaciers and Iceland in general. What’s cooler than that?

If you want a little luxury

What’s better than a spa day? Visiting a geothermal spa fed by Europe’s most powerful hot spring, Deildartunguhver. At Krauma Natural Geothermal Baths, the water from the hot spring is mixed with cool glacial water for a perfect temperature. It has five hot tubs and one cold bath, plus a relaxation room, two steam baths and an infrared sauna. Alternatively, if you don’t want to leave the capital area, book the seven-step “Ritual” at the Sky Lagoon for a luxurious afternoon of soaking, steaming, scrubbing and other soothing activities.

If you want an adrenaline rush

Are you looking for a thrill? Go on a buggy ride. A buggy is a fast, sturdy and stable ATV, perfect for anyone who loves to get their blood pumping in the great outdoors – and who doesn’t mind getting a little dirty in the process. Driving a buggy through rough Icelandic terrain, over mud puddles, dirt roads or snow, makes for an exhilarating day.

If you want to hit the high seas

Marine life abounds in the water around Iceland, and you can see everything from harbour porpoises and white-beaked dolphins to minke and humpback whales on a whale watching tour. Tour boats depart Reykjavík’s old harbour throughout the day, cruising to the spots where sightings are most likely. Nothing beats the thrill of seeing a massive whale breach or watching one slap its enormous flukes on the water’s surface. If you have a few hours to spare before or after the cruise (or if you get seasick and a cruise is out of the question), check out the Whales of Iceland exhibition to learn more about these gentle giants.

Stop by the What’s On information centre, or send us an email, info@whatson.is, and ask the staff to help you plan an unforgettable vacation.

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With a subarctic climate and a tiny population, Iceland is a little different from other popular travel destinations. Desolate landscapes, extreme weather, mountain roads, geothermal areas, and the ocean can all catch the unprepared off-guard. Keep the following six safety guidelines in mind when planning your trip to Iceland.

1. Familiarise yourself with Iceland’s emergency numbers

The emergency number in Iceland is 112. You can dial it free of charge to reach emergency services like ambulances, rescue teams, and the police, and there is also a 112 app that can send your information to emergency services at the press of a button.

2. Follow updates on Safetravel.is

Icelandic weather is infamously fickle, and extreme weather is not uncommon. In wintertime, high wind speeds and snow can frequently limit visibility. Safetravel.is offers up-to-date road condition maps, weather alerts, and plenty of helpful tips and information on the best and safest way to travel around the country. There’s an app for that, too. It’s well worth downloading and checking regularly throughout your travels.

3. Be extra careful when visiting geothermal areas

CHECK OUT THE SAFE TRAVEL APP

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The water in geothermal areas can reach temperatures upward of 100°C. Falling in or slipping can result in severe burns. Safe paths are clearly marked, so stick to them, and never walk on ground that is steaming.

Visit www.safetravel.is

How to Travel Safely in Iceland

WHAT’S ON 4. Keep a safe distance from the ocean Sneaker waves – disproportionally large waves that encroach farther onto shore than regular waves – are frequent occurrences at the Reynisfjara and Kirkjufjara beaches in South Iceland. Sneaker waves are more powerful than people expect, and accidents have proven fatal in the past. Keep a safe distance from the water and observe nearby signs.

5. Stay on the path

Whether visiting a waterfall, a geothermal area, or hiking in the mountains, staying on the marked footpath is imperative. Respect when paths are closed and heed all signs. It’s closed for a reason, either to protect you or fragile nature.

6. Let someone know where you’re going

If you’re planning on hiking or hitchhiking, let someone know where you’re going and when you’ll be back. You can also upload your travel plan to www.safetravel.is.

Visit www.safetravel.is

WHERE THE NORTHERN LIGHTS ARE ALWAYS ON DISPLAY

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A world class exhibition on volcanoes and earthquakes surrounded by active volcanoes The Lava Centre is situated at Hvolsvöllur on the South Coast of Iceland, surrounded by active volcanoes. It truly acts as the gateway to Iceland’s most active volcanic area. The Lava Centre just received two Red Dot Awards, which cement its position as a world class exhibition.

LAVA Centre is the best place to learn about the new Fagradalsfjall eruption, with new exhibits explaining the eruption and new film footage in the volcano cinema.

MORE INFO AND TICKETS AT

Open every day

www.lavacentre.is

9:00 - 16:00

Iceland Volcano & Earthquake Centre Austurvegur 14, Hvolsvöllur · South Iceland

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7 FACTS YOU (PROBABLY) DON’T KNOW ABOUT VOLCANOES

1. Liberty, Equality, Fraternity... Volcanicity?

The 1783-4 eruption of Laki was the biggest eruption in recorded history. An estimated 42 billion tonnes of poisonous gases and dust darkened the skies. Haze from the eruption floated east as far away as India, disrupting the monsoon season and leading to drought and crop failures. The famine that hit Egypt in 1784, was a result of the eruption, and killed roughly one-sixth of its population. Back in Iceland, an estimated 20–25% of the population died from famine, and over half the livestock was poisoned or killed by giant hailstones. Food shortages contributed to social unrest across Europe and contributed to the French Revolution of 1789 that gave birth to western democracy.

2. And in second Place…

Iceland was also the site of the second biggest emission in recorded history: the 2014 eruption of Bárðarbunga. In just 6 months, Bárðarbunga produced enough lava to cover the island of Manhattan - 85km2.

3. Enter the Volcano

In Jules Verne’s Journey to the Centre of the Earth, the heroes climb down a crater on the Snæfellsnes peninsula to find vast oceans filled with extinct prehistoric creatures. While an encounter with a herd of mastodons is unlikely, a trip to Þríhnúkagígur (Thrihnukagigur) still feels pretty Jules Verne. Þríhnúkagígur is the only volcano in the world

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where you can descend into the magma chamber. Discovered in 1974 and opened to the public in 2012.

million years ago, our volcanoes would have been terrorising dinosaurs somewhere in Canada.

4. New Earth

7. Iceland has a volcanic eruption every 4-5 years

Surtsey, Iceland’s most southern point was formed by a volcanic eruption at the bottom of the ocean and emerged from the water on November 14, 1963. It was immediately granted protection by law, and to this day, only scientists are allowed to go there, and even they have to get special permission. This means that we have been able to monitor how life settles on a brand-new land from the beginning, which has, of course, been invaluable to scientists.

5. SuperFresh Lava

The island has somewhere between 150-200 volcanoes, split into different volcanic systems. About 30 different systems are still considered “active” in Iceland, and 13 of them have erupted since the Viking Settlement in 874. The most recent eruptions were in Fagradalsfjall valley in 2021, which lasted 6 months, and nearby in Meradalir in 2022, which lasted only 3 weeks. These short-lived eruptions were the first on the Reykjanes peninsula in over 700 years!

Iceland has a third of the world’s fresh lava. ‘Fresh’ is a relative term that may need defining. When discussing Arctic Char, it’s best measured in hours. In geological time fresh lava means lava that’s less than five hundred years old. Iceland is full of these ‘Here’s one I prepared earlier’ landscapes offering snapshots of geological time and processes.

6. Icelandic volcanoes are on the move!

Due to changes in on the tectonic level of the earth, Iceland’s volcanoes are actually moving east. Veeeeeeeery slowly. If you visited Iceland 20 million years ago, the volcanoes would all have been situated in the West Fjords. Fifty million years ago, during the Eocene epoch, you would find our volcanoes living happily in Greenland, and 70

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The Northern Lights Now that the darkness of night has returned in full, Icelanders and tourists alike can be seen craning their necks and watching the sky for the magnificent Aurora Borealis. The northern lights are actually the results of sun flares caused by magnetic storms on the sun‘s surface. These flares send bursts of charged particles (electrons, ions, atoms) into outer space through the Sun’s corona.

to their normal state, they release a photon, causing them to light up. This light is a form of electromagnetic radiation, reaching the Earth along with radio waves. When billions of these collisions occur, the oxygen and nitrogen in the atmosphere emit enough light for the eye to detect them, resulting in bright green, white, red and purple colours to dance across the sky.

If this burst is in the direction of Earth, these charged particles can cause northern lights to appear near the Earth’s poles. Oxygen and nitrogen particles in the Earth’s atmosphere can collide with charged particles from the Sun’s atmosphere.

Seeing the lights is a magical experience, and we recommend seeking them out while you’re in Iceland. However, there are a few things every northern lights hunter should keep in mind. The northern lights aren’t a reliable attraction and seeing them can be a matter of being in the right spot at the right time. It’s not all down to luck, however, as there are a few things you can do to maximise your chances of seeing the ethereal lights.

This collision causes the Earth’s particles to get into a high-energy state, and when they return

Different ways to see the northern lights: Going by coach:

Going by boat:

Cheap and effective. A northern lights tour by bus or minibus is a good way to see the lights if you’re not too concerned about being surrounded by a lot of people and simply travelling by bus. Perhaps not the best time if you don’t see anything – but it’s the cheapest option to see the lights, and it gets the job done.

A great experience regardless of lights. Going by boat is a very good choice for those who want to ensure they get something out of their tour even if no lights are found. Being out at sea and viewing the city lights from the water is in itself a great experience.

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Top 8 tips for the northern lights

1 GET OUT OF TOWN

The city lights block the northern lights!

2 MAKE SURE IT’S DARK

Daylight and northern lights don’t go hand in hand!

3 MAKE SURE THE SKY IS CLEAR

The northern lights appear way above the clouds!

4 GIVE IT TIME AND BE PATIENT!

The northern lights don’t come out by order – be patient and you might get lucky!

5 SIGHTINGS CAN NEVER BE GUARANTEED

So we’d recommend a tour that includes some great activity as well as northern lights hunt – so you won’t feel disappointed!

6 WEAR SOMETHING WARM

It can get seriously cold, especially when the sky is clear and you’re waiting for a long time.

7 KNOW YOUR CAMERA!

Taking photos with a flash won’t work. Ever. A tripod and long exposure are your friends!

8 ENJOY IT!

Lie down on the ground. Look up. Enjoy!

Book your northern lights tour now online or at the What’s On tourist information centre, at Laugavegur 5.

Going by super-jeep: Exclusive and thrilling. Going on a hunt for the lights with a specially modified superjeep is a thrilling experience that’s fun and exciting. Sights can of course never be guaranteed, but the off-road action of a superjeep makes for a great adventure, the lights are just an added bonus.

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NORTHERN LIGHTS PHOTOGRAPHY

DO’s AND DON'Ts

DO have a relatively good camera with you that allows for easy and quick change of settings. DON’T rule out taking a photo on your phone’s camera. DO have your ISO set to at least 800 and your aperture as low as it goes. DON’T forget your tripod. However little you think you move while waiting for your camera to take your picture, believe me, you always move and it’s enough to make your photos blurry. DO keep your shutter speed anywhere between 5 to 30 seconds, although the optimal would be between 5 and 20 seconds (30 seconds is only for very faint lights, basically). DON’T forget to plan ahead when booking your northern lights tour- finding a stable surface on a boat is difficult, and large group tours might make your photography session more difficult. DO consider using continuous shooting, so that while shooting the lights, you don’t have to keep staring at them through your camera. DON’T focus solely on your photographs and forget to be in the moment. You don’t see the northern lights every day! If you need any more information, check out www.whatson.is or stop by the What’s On information office at Laugavegur 5.

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HOW TO READ THE NORTHERN LIGHTS FORECAST The northern lights forecast can be found on en.vedur.is/weather/forecasts/aurora/, but it is a little hard to decipher if you’ve never seen it before. Our handy-dandy guide should make things a little bit easier.

Going on a tour?

There are many tours taking you far from the bright city lights for a better chance of seeing the aurora. These tours will be cancelled if there is no chance of seeing the lights. All major operators can be trusted to do this, first of all, because there is a high standard of professionalism in Iceland, but more importantly, because they lose money if they take you out needlessly – most of them promise to take you out again for free if you don’t see anything.

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The Colours

White means no clouds while dark green means very cloudy. The different shades of green then mean more, or less, cloudy.

The numbers

The numbers are a combination of how likely it is for the lights to be active and how active they will be. Don’t be discouraged if the number is low, it’s actually very rare for the number to be higher than five. Also, take the scale with a grain of salt; a low number doesn’t mean that they won’t come out or won’t be impressive, and a high number isn’t a guarantee that they will be glorious all through the night.

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THE SITUATION ON THE REYKJANES PENINSULA The situation in Grindavík is still developing. This is the situation at the time of writing, but be aware that the situation can change. Unnecessary travel to the Reykjanes peninsula is to be avoided, but there is no immediate danger posed to the capital region.

2,000 years ago. The sinkhole continues to grow while destroying further infrastructure in the town. The risk of an eruption remains high and a drone ban for the affected area has been installed until November 29. The Blue Lagoon remains closed until November 30.

Reykjanes peninsula has had a fair amount of volcanic activity within the last three years. After the first eruption in 2021, two other volcanoes followed in the two years after. The last volcanic eruption on the peninsula, named “Litli-Hrútur,” ended on August 5, 2023.

Please note that this possible eruption differs highly from the previous three eruptions on Reykjanes peninsula, which were very “tourist-friendly.” This event could lead to the loss of property and homes for the citizens of Grindavík. The area is evacuated and locked down. Do not attempt to go there and we recommend not to travel through Reykjanes peninsula, if avoidable. The rest of Iceland is not affected by these activities and is safe to travel. Please keep yourself informed during your travels in Iceland and exercise common sense.

Since October 24, numerous earthquakes have rocked the Reykjanes peninsula, indicating that there might be another eruption coming soon. The area where most of the seismic activity has been recorded is close to the town Grindavík and the popular tourist destination the Blue Lagoon. In contrast to the other previous events, this possible eruption could threaten crucial infrastructure and the situation is therefore very serious. On November 10, the seismic activity picked up considerably and it became clear that the magma dike had extended underneath Grindavík. The 3,600 inhabitants of the town were immediately evacuated. According to scientists, magma is currently accumulating in the 15-kilometre-long intrusion. In Grindavík, a sinkhole has formed above an old fissure from the Sundhnúkur eruption about

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Good resources in English are: Official travel warnings: safetravel.is, Icelandic Road Administration: road.is, The Icelandic Met Office (vedur.is) Website of the Department of Civil Protection (https://www.almannavarnir.is/english/).

safetravel.is

road.is

almannavarnir.is

vedur.is

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CHRISTMAS IN ICELAND a Feast of Light and Peace

Christmas in Iceland is the biggest celebration of the year. Perhaps this has something to do with the dark days of winter and the fact that Christmas coincides with the winter solstice. Whatever the reason, Christmas in Iceland is much more than just one day of celebration, there are 13 of them, and that’s not even counting Christmas Eve! Over the top celebrations

Iceland is a very Christmas-oriented nation. It’s no wonder really, the winter months are dark, cold and damp, so celebrating with pretty lights and lots of staying inside and eating is a no-brainer. In the good old days, when people lived in dark and cramped turf houses half-buried in the ground, lived off the land and just tried their best not to freeze to death or get lost in a blizzard during the winter months, the winter solstice was a cause for celebration. It made

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WHAT’S ON perfect sense to turn on the best candles they had, have the best meal possible, and put on their best clothes during the darkest days of winter, because it meant that there were brighter days ahead. The same mentality still applies, we celebrate with all our hearts the fact that we’ve reached the darkest point of winter and that from now on, each day will be just a little bit longer than the last, until, finally, summer comes again.

Preparations

For most Icelanders, the time spent preparing for Christmas is no less important or magical than the actual event. During the last four weeks before Christmas, Advent, people spend their time attending Christmas concerts, going Christmas shopping (a lengthy process that involves a lot of meeting relatives and acquaintances on the street), baking cookies and laufabrauð, and making sure their homes are decorated with brighter lights than their neighbours’. One tradition can certainly be said to be allIcelandic: eating fermented skate on December 23. Visitors to Iceland are often bewildered on this day by the foul odour surrounding the beautiful Christmas decorations in Reykjavík. This day is very important to many Icelanders and must not be underestimated as it is a vital part of the holidays.

Family parties

Getting together with family is what this is all about. Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and the Second Day of Christmas are usually packed with family events - think playing cards with your grandma in her best dress while sipping hot chocolate after stuffing yourself with smoked lamb, white sauce, and green peas. That doesn’t mean Icelanders don’t use the holidays to go out as well. The bars are open longer than usual on the Second Day of Christmas, and the weekend between Christmas and New Year’s Eve is usually packed with concerts and parties. Last but not least is of course New Year’s Eve itself when Icelanders go all out. Expect fireworks, glitter, parties, and even more fireworks.

Celebrated on December 24…

Christmas Day in Iceland is a cosy affair, mostly spent wearing pyjamas all day and reading. Books are very important during Christmas in Iceland, and probably the most common Christmas gift in the country. Most people read until the family party (mentioned above) starts. That’s because,

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in Iceland, Christmas starts on Christmas Eve. At precisely 18:00, families all around the country either sit down to a Christmas feast, followed by opening presents and vowing never to eat again or sit down in church followed by the aforementioned activities.

… at precisely 18:00

Why 18:00 you might ask? The answer most Icelandic people will give is that it’s when the church clock starts chiming and the mass begins on the radio. Maybe people believe that’s the time Jesus was born, or “because my mom says so,” but it actually is a bit more complicated than that. Following a tradition inherited from Judaism, the Christian liturgical day starts at sunset, not at midnight. Since the invention of the clock, they settled the exact time at 18:00. This means technically, 18:00 on Christmas Eve marks the beginning of Christmas Day.

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THE ICELANDIC YULE LADS

In most countries, one measly Santa Claus is considered quite enough. Icelanders, however, apparently favour quantity over quality and have an unruly group of 13 Yule Lads of troll ancestry roaming the mountains. If the Yule Lads ever meet Santa, we’re guessing it’s only because he’s asking them nicely to please keep it down, as he and Mrs Claus are early risers – and incidentally, do they happen to know anything about the mysterious disappearance of all of Mrs Claus’ sausages? Naughty or nice?

The first record of our Yule Lads dates back to the 17th century, although the tales have changed a lot since then. The 13 troll sons of giantess Grýla and Leppalúði, Grýla’s third husband, were originally scary figures. According to the stories, they live with their parents somewhere in the mountains outside of town, along with the Christmas Cat. Sounds cosy, right? Well, it isn’t. The Christmas Cat eats children who don’t get new clothes for Christmas, while Grýla prefers to snack on naughty kids. The Yule Lads have a less infanticidal reputation, limiting themselves to pranks and petty thievery. They’ve mellowed a lot through the years, and hardly steal anything really valuable these days.

And what about the presents?

The Yule Lads arrive from the mountains one by one, just in time for Christmas. The first one arrives the night before December 12 and the last on the night before December 24. At some point in history, they picked up the habit of giving small children gifts as soon as they arrived in town. The last 13 days before Christmas, children leave a single shoe on the windowsill in their room before going to bed and wake up to a little trinket from one of the lads. If they’ve been good, that is. Otherwise, they just get a potato. So, the next time you wake up to a bearded and rough-looking gentleman going through your shoes, just go back to sleep, he’s probably bringing you a present.

The names speak for themselves

The Yule Lads are pranksters, but they don’t go in for just any old trick. They’ve specialised, which is reflected in their names. The names are very descriptive and refer to their individual mischievous nature, which is further detailed in a popular 1932 poem by poet Jóhannes úr Kötlum. For instance, Þvörusleikir translates as Spoon-Licker; Hurðaskellir means Door-Slammer; Gáttaþefur is DoorwaySniffer in English, and we also have, and this is no joke, Gluggagægir, which translates to WindowPeeper. If it makes you feel better, he’s only trying to locate laufabrauð he can steal.

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Introducing the Yule Lads Illustrations by Elín Elísabet Einarsdóttir

The Icelandic Yule Lads are the 13 sons of Grýla (the folklore is not clear on their paternity, as Leppalúði is her third husband). In Iceland of yore, the Yule Lads were an incredible nuisance and brought grief to the general populace, stealing food and pranking people. Today, however, they’ve transformed into the kinder, gentler fellows who leave gifts in the shoes of obedient children. STEKKJASTAUR

SHEEP-COTE CLOD / DEC. 12 Due to his affinity for sheep milk, Stekkjastaur spends most of his time among humans, breaking into the sheep pens and trying to suckle the ewes. Despite his disability – he has two peg legs, which makes crawling into the sheep pens challenging – he is amazingly resilient in his efforts.

GILJAGAUR

GULLY GAWK / DEC. 13 Another fan of dairy products, Giljagaur is a bit more patient, a bit more cunning, in his attempts at pilfering milk. He doesn’t try to go straight to the cow’s udders: rather, he waits until the farm workers are distracted before swooping in and slurping the froth from the fresh milk.

STÚFUR

STUB / DEC. 14 Stúfur is named for his height – or lack thereof. For some reason, he considers burnt bits of food that get stuck to the pan a special delicacy, going so far as to raid kitchens for dirty pans to get his hands on the good stuff.

ÞVÖRUSLEIKIR

SPOON LICKER / DEC. 15 Þvörusleikir is extremely tall and skinny, which may

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explain his passion for wooden spoons (he’s trying to bulk up). Patiently waiting for the work to be finished in the kitchen, Þvörusleikir, quick as a flash, grabs the dirty spoons and licks them clean.

POTTASKEFILL

POT LICKER / DEC. 16 Like Stúfur, this Yule Lad also likes to lick remains from the inside of the pots. His crimes are simple but crafty; he knocks on the door, and when residents rush to see who it is, he sneaks into the kitchen and cleans out the pots.

ASKASLEIKIR

BOWL LICKER / DEC. 17 In the old days, Icelanders ate their food from lidded wooden bowls called askar. Askasleikir would creep in, hide, and snatch the askar whenever they were put aside, licking their insides clean. Since most people have upgraded to plates, he probably has, too, while keeping his name for old times’ sake.

HURÐASKELLIR

DOOR SLAMMER / DEC. 18 Waking up is never pleasant. Being woken by a loud noise, such as a door slamming – even less so. For some reason, Hurðaskellir thinks this is hilarious and goes through town slamming doors for his own amusement.

WHAT’S ON SKYRGÁMUR

SKYR GOBBLER / DEC 19 For the uninitiated, skyr (pron. skeer) is a dairy product, halfway between cheese and yoghurt. It’s fat-free, high in protein, and delicious. This might explain Skyrgámur’s size (he’s said to be the size of a bull) and his habit of eating other people’s skyr.

BJÚGNAKRÆKIR

SAUSAGE SWIPER /DEC 20 While many of the Yule Lads like stealing food, they’re usually picky about what they take. Bjúga is a salty, smoked Icelandic sausage, and a favourite of Bjúgnakrækir. He loves them so much that he doesn’t mind crawling through soot and smoke to get them.

GLUGGAGÆGIR

WINDOW PEEPER / DEC 21 Again, the name really says it all. However, it’s important to note that his intentions, although not honourable, are mostly food-related. He only peeps in windows in order to locate food he could possibly steal.

GÁTTAÞEFUR

DOOR SNIFFER / DEC 22 Gáttaþefur was from birth blessed with a huge nose, heightened olfactory senses, as well as the ability to never catch a cold. He is, as so many other Icelanders, partial to laufabrauð and uses his abnormally large nose to sniff out its hiding places.

KETKRÓKUR

MEAT HOOK / DEC 23 It’s obvious that some of the Yule Lads are more industrious and cleverer than others. Ketkrókur, for example, travels around with a long stick with a hook at the end, perfect for sticking it down chimneys in order to steal meat, preferably hangikjöt (smoked lamb).

KERTASNÍKIR

CANDLE BEGGAR / DEC 24 One of the few Yule Lads not constantly occupied with food, Kertasníkir instead enjoys stealing candles, preferably from children. This seems especially mean when you know that in the old days every kid usually got a nice candle for Christmas and sometimes not much else.

GRÝLA

Grýla is an Icelandic troll who likes the flesh of naughty children. She lives in a cave and keeps a pot of boiling water at the ready, just in case she gets wind of exceptionally disobedient children. Grýla also carries a large sack to carry around the children she catches. It should be noted that Icelandic trolls are different from Norwegian ones and are nothing like internet trolls either. They are large, almost mountain-like.

LEPPALÚÐI

Grýla’s third husband possesses few defining characteristics despite extreme laziness. He doesn’t get out much. Unlike the rest of his family, he just sits around the cave waiting for Grýla to bring him food. His name has become synonymous with being extremely ugly and/or poorly dressed.

CHRISTMAS CAT

The phrase “Christmas cat” might conjure a cosy image – but don’t be fooled. The Christmas Cat is actually the sinister sidekick of the ghastly child-eating Grýla. The Christmas Cat lives with Grýla and her slothful husband in their cave. According to legend, local children who don’t receive a new item of clothing for Christmas end up in Christmas cat’s belly. This makes absolutely no sense at all, but, hey, it’s a convenient excuse to go shopping. Find more info on the Icelandic Yule Lads on christmasiniceland.is

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THE FESTIVAL

of overeating

Food is a significant part of Christmas celebrations all over the world and Iceland is no exception. Every country has its own tradition and while trends and fashions can influence what families eat each year, there are some foodstuffs that just have to be a part of the experience or Christmas is ruined!

MANDARIN ORANGES A few weeks before Christmas, cases of these juicy and sweet mini oranges arrive in stores. Although mandarins are sold all year round, the fresh harvest coming into stores in November and December has the best-tasting fruit. While mandarins are the current Christmas fruit, they’ve only recently replaced apples as the holiday fruit of choice. They’re available all year today but older Icelanders still remember a time when apples were only imported around Christmas time.

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WHAT’S ON CHRISTMAS COOKIES As if Christmas can be celebrated without pepper cakes (piparkökur)? We, uh, mean gingerbread cookies (or a close-enough relation)! Pepper cakes is just a literal translation of their Icelandic name, even though they usually contain little to no pepper. Store-bought or homemade, they’re always fun to decorate with colourful frosting. Other popular Christmas cookies include buttery vanilla wreaths, light and crunchy cocoa cookies called loftkökur (air cakes), and “mom’s cookies,” ginger cookies sandwiched together with buttercream. There used to be a time when the excellence of a homemaker was judged by the number of different types of cookies she made for Christmas. Anything less than five was a sign of inadequacy. Thankfully, we’re past that now. We think.

splash of cola to the mix? The producer suggests an alphabetical mixing order, but if you want to err on the side of caution, it’s available premixed in cans in every respectable supermarket.

LEAF BREAD Some traditions make more sense than others. Eating delicious cookies around Christmas time? Perfectly normal. Going to a Christmas buffet with your office mates? Fun and delicious. Spending a whole day with several other people carving delicate patterns in thin and fragile flour cakes which are then deep-fried in boiling fat, and served with butter come Christmas Eve? Labour-intensive to the point of insanity. Laufabrauð, or leaf bread, is very thin, pretty, and subtly delicious. Today, you can get them from the store, but many people still like to get together with family or friends and make them the old-fashioned way. SMOKED LAMB The traditional Icelandic Christmas dish at the start of the last century was hangikjöt. Directly translating to hanging meat, hangikjöt is simply smoked lamb and today, most people serve it on Christmas Day. The salty delicacy is usually boiled and served with potatoes, a white sauce similar to béchamel, and red cabbage from a jar. Canned peas are also popular (for some reason). MALT & APPELSÍN There’s a special drink almost every Icelandic household serves at Christmas. It’s a non-alcoholic mixture of two soft drinks, Malt and Appelsín, produced by Iceland’s oldest soda factory, Ölgerðin. Appelsín is an Icelandic orange soda and Malt is, as the name suggests, a malt-based, non-alcoholic beer, dark brown and very sweet. There is some dispute over the correct way to mix it, Malt first or Appelsín first, dare we even suggest adding a

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National Gallery of Iceland Fríkirkjuvegur 7 The House of Collections Hverfisgata 15 Home of an Artist Bergstaðarstræti 74

14.10.2023— Egill Sæbjörnsson 25.2.2024 and Infinite Friends of the Universe From the book When Egill met the Trolls and took them to Venice, 2017 Electronic pen on iPad © Egill Sæbjörnsson

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Þorláksmessa Do it right

December 23 is the last day before Christmas in Iceland and the stress of getting everything done in time – the presents, the cards, the food, and the decorations – is beginning to get to people. It’s not all bad though, because mixed in with the stress and anxiety is a Christmassy sense of joy and a healthy dose of commiserating with friends and relatives. You’re all in the same boat! Skip the malls and head to Laugavegur

While Kringlan and Smáralind, the biggest shopping malls in Reykjavík, have plenty of great stores for most of your shopping needs, you just can’t beat the Christmassy atmosphere of Laugavegur, the main shopping street in the city centre, lined with the colourful little houses Reykjavík is famous for. Plus, the hot chocolate tastes so much better when you come in from the cold.

Commiserate with your fellow shoppers

If you’re not fluent in Icelandic, it might be interesting for you to know that on Þorláksmessa

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WHAT’S ON

you only really need to know one sentence to keep up a conversation. Just say “Jæja, ertu búin að öllu?” (“So, have you done everything yet?”). The person you’re talking to will probably get a worried look on their face and start rattling off a list of everything they haven’t, in fact, done yet. All you have to do to keep up your half of the conversation is nod sympathetically every now and then and maybe throw in a cheery Gleðileg jól (Merry Christmas) before leaving.

Go downtown, even if you don’t really need to go shopping!

I may be exaggerating a tiny bit. There are people, or so I’ve heard, who have actually finished everything before Þorláksmessa, baked all the cookies, put up all the decorations, and probably finished wrapping all the gifts in October. But even those people come downtown on Þorláksmessa. Some people like to leave one last present unbought and others just take a shamelessly purposeless walk down Laugavegur. It’s the place to be, especially during the evening. So, buy that last present, or just go get a beer or a cup of cocoa, but don’t miss out on the Þorláksmessa experience.

admiring the Christmas lights and drinking Christmas beer, didn’t you? Well, think again. An integral part of the Þorláksmessa experience is (I swear this is true) eating the most foul-smelling seafood Iceland has to offer, fermented skate. Fish with a cartilaginous skeleton, such as skate and shark, can be fermented for food because of the high amount of naturally occurring chemicals that preserve the fish but cause it to stink in the process. Sounds appetising, right? If you’re interested, many restaurants in Reykjavík offer a skate buffet on Þorláksmessa (usually serving other fish along with it, in case the skate turns out to be too offensive to your taste buds). Also, rumour has it that the taste is slightly better than the smell.

Try some fermented skate

We saved the best for last. You thought this was going to be all nice walks down Laugavegur

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The Icelandic Christmas Calendar

FIRST SUNDAY OF ADVENT

December 3 The first Sunday of the Advent season is conveniently called Advent Sunday. In Western Christianity, Advent starts the liturgical year. The holiday is religious in nature, with Churches celebrating the birth of Jesus and the preparation for his second coming. Advent also meant a Christmas fast to some churches. These days in Iceland, Advent mostly signifies the beginning of the Christmas season. And far from fasting, it rings in a time of sweets and feasts, lights, Christmas trees, presents, and spending time with loved ones.

FIRST VISIT FROM THE YULE LADS

December 12 Instead of one Santa Claus that brings gifts on one night, Icelanders have to put up with 13 mischievous Yule Lads who might bring a small gift or a potato (if you’ve been naughty). But more than likely, they are going to cause some havoc. The first Yule Lad, Stekkjastaur (Sheep Cote-Clod), arrives on December 12 and sneaks around the farms,

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WHAT’S ON bothering the sheep. This is actually pretty difficult due to his two peg legs. Regardless of what he might be doing to the sheep, leave your shoe on the windowsill and Stekkjastaur - and his brothers that will visit over the following 12 nights - might leave you a little something.

ÞORLÁKSMESSA (St. Thorlakur’s Day)

December 23 Þorláksmessa is the day of Iceland’s patron saint, St Þorlákur. It’s the last day before Christmas that is celebrated, so for most people, this is the height of Christmas preparation. It’s the biggest shopping day of the year and many people spend the day purchasing their last few Christmas gifts. A peculiar Þorláksmessa custom is eating fermented skate. The skate’s sinus-clearing aroma and funky flavour is an acquired taste, but the idea is that it will make the Christmas feast the next day taste even sweeter.

AÐFANGADAGSKVÖLD (Christmas Eve) December 24 Christmas Eve is the most important night of the Christmas celebration in Iceland. Christmas officially begins at 6pm sharp, and by that time most Icelanders have washed, have dressed in their best clothes (new clothes, ideally, to fend off the Christmas Cat), and are ready to sit down to Christmas dinner. Christmas Eve is a very intimate, festive evening that Icelanders normally spend only with their nearest and dearest. After dinner, people relocate to the living room to open presents by the Christmas tree. JÓLADAGUR (Christmas Day) December 25 As the main feast is already over by the time Christmas Day rolls around, most people spend the day lazing around, reading the new books they received for Christmas, or visiting the graves of loved ones. December 25 is also a day for Christmas parties when people get together with their extended families, eat hangikjöt (smoked lamb) and laufabrauð (leaf bread) and celebrate Christmas together. ANNAR Í JÓLUM (Second Day of Christmas) December 26 The day after Christmas Day is a public holiday in Iceland. Referred to as the Second Day of Christmas. it’s pretty much the same as Christmas Day. This time, however, Christmas is commonly celebrated with the other side of the family. On the

Second Day of Christmas, it’s not uncommon for locals to duck out early to the party, with many people figuring they’ve already spent quite enough time with their families.

GAMLÁRSDAGUR (New Year’s Eve) December 31 New Year’s Eve is a major event on the Icelandic social calendar. The fun often begins around 18:00 with a big festive dinner, followed by a bonfire (or brenna), where the Icelanders mingle and socialise. At 22:30, it is time for the eagerly awaited Áramótaskaup (New Year’s Jest) – a 50-minute long comedy special on TV. More than 90% of the Icelandic nation watches Áramótaskaupið, which means that the streets are virtually deserted. The New Year’s madness begins to build as soon as the credits roll. At midnight, all hell breaks loose. In Iceland, fireworks are sold unrestricted to the public between Christmas and New Year’s. This nation of only 350,000 people manages to ignite over 500 tonnes of fireworks on New Year’s Eve. ÞRETTÁNDINN (Twelfth Night)

January 6 If you didn’t quench your thirst for arson and explosions on New Year’s Eve, don’t worry, there’s always Þrettándinn (Twelfth Night). There’s a lot of superstition regarding Þrettándinn. The last Yule Lad heads back to the mountains, the elves and the hidden people move houses (keep your lights on the whole night so they don’t settle in one of your dark corners), cows speak, and seals shed their skin to walk on land as men. There’s usually a bonfire where people can finish off the last of their fireworks and the kids get a visit from the elf king and queen.

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WHAT’S ON

What are you doing New Years Eve? Christmas is great; some people even say it’s the best. But when Christmas Eve has come and gone, and you’ve been to all the family parties, eaten all the cookies and opened all the presents, what’s there to look forward to? New Year’s Eve, that’s what. If you are a kid (or a grown-up with a moderate to severe interest in lighting fires), this evening can be just as fun as Christmas, but on a completely different level.

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A FAMILY AFFAIR – AT FIRST New Year’s Eve in Iceland is a very special event, and it’s the party night of the year. This might not be completely clear in the early evening, because many Icelanders start the night with a family dinner (turkey has become popular), followed by watching the annual comedy revue on television. Around midnight, an amazing fireworks show starts off. COME ON, BABY, LIGHT MY FIRE There is a reason for our burning desire to set things on fire, as there is an old superstition that says you have to burn away the old year to wake up on New Year’s Day with a clean slate. Just in case the fireworks aren’t enough, we also have New Year’s Eve bonfires. Since the bonfires promise to burn away the sins of the year gone by, you can imagine how popular they are. Most towns have one, of varying sizes, and Reykjavík even has 10 in separate

WHAT’S ON

neighbourhoods. The bonfires are usually lit at around 20:30. That’s after dinner, but before the annual comedy revue starts. ÁRAMÓTASKAUPIÐ – THE ANNUAL COMEDY REVUE Áramótaskaupið is a 50-minute comedy special satirising the year’s most prominent events, and it’s been on since 1966, which incidentally is the year RÚV (the Icelandic national broadcasting service) started broadcasting. Just how big of a deal is it? Well, in 2002, 95% of the population was watching. The other 5% were probably doctors and nurses on call tending to burns, their patients, and maybe a bartender or two. New Year’s Day conversations in Iceland are limited to discussions about what people thought of Skaupið, as it is affectionately known. Every year, Áramótaskaupið is shown in Icelandic on RÚV, and at the same time on RÚV 2 with English subtitles. Both channels are accessible on RÚV’s website. FIREWORKS GALORE Fireworks are illegal in Iceland for the majority of the year. But leading up to (and even a week after) New Year’s Eve, you can hear the bangs and pops all over the city. ICE-SAR, the volunteer Search and Rescue team, sells fireworks every year for the holiday as

a fundraiser. So your money is going to a good cause! As it gets closer to midnight on New Year’s Eve, people begin to gather around Hallgrímskirkja church. Things can get chaotic, with everyone setting off their own fireworks in a crowded area, so it’s common to see people wearing safety goggles! THE PARTY It might surprise you, but it’s not until after midnight that the actual party gets started. After the fireworks have been lit and hot chocolate has been had with older family members, that’s when people put on their glitter hats, get their confetti bombs ready and head out, drink in one hand, and a lit sparkler in the other. House parties are popular, and downtown Reykjavík quickly starts filling up with eager partygoers. ELVES AND HIDDEN PEOPLE There’s a fair bit of folklore dedicated to the beginning of a new year. According to tales, this is the night that the elves and hidden people move to a new house, cows speak, and seals leave their seal skin and walk on land as men. While few people have a strong belief in stories of elves and trolls anymore, many people still make sure to leave at least one light on for the whole night, for the hidden people.

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4 5

6 lag

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BSÍ

Check out the article Reykjavik Sights to See on pages 52-53 for more information about the places numbered here.

REYKJAVÍK CIT Y MAP i

What’s On Tourist Information and Booking Centre Locations Main areas

Sights

Tour Pick Ups

10 12

10 13

WHAT’S ON

Reykjavík sights to see Reykjavík sightseeing has something for everyone! The city is filled with things to do, places to go, and stuff to see, but some things are just a little bit more important than others.

Check out the map in the centre of the magazine to find the exact location of these Reykjavík sights.

1 HALLGRÍMSKIRKJA Hallgrímskirkja church is one of Reykjavík’s most iconic buildings and is visible from almost anywhere in the city. It’s the largest church and the 6th tallest architectural structure in Iceland. The church tower offers a fantastic view of the city. It’s named after the Icelandic poet and clergyman Hallgrímur Petursson, author of the Passion Hymns. The architect, Guðjón Samúelsson, designed it to resemble the basalt lava column flows of Iceland’s landscape. Construction started in 1945 and was finished in 1984. 2 PERLAN Standing at 25m, Perlan is one of Reykjavík’s most striking buildings. Built on top of the city’s hot water tanks, Perlan is known for its unique architecture. Inside Perlan, you can visit Wonders of Iceland, an exhibition spread over multiple levels. A visit to a real ice cave, planetarium shows, exhibitions on Iceland’s history, glaciers, volcanoes, and water, and a spectacular 360° viewing platform are all included in a ticket. On the top floor, there is a restaurant and coffeehouse for guests in need of refreshment. Surrounding Perlan is the Öskjuhlíð area, one of the many green spaces in Reykjavík, perfect for a walk on a sunny day. 3 TJÖRNIN Tjörnin (The Pond) is the heart of the city centre and offers some of the most amazing views in Reykjavík. There is no better place in the city to enjoy a beautiful sunset, and you can watch or feed a huge variety of birdlife that calls the lake home while you’re at it. When the lake freezes over in winter, geothermal water is pumped in to defrost an area for the birds and feeding them is a popular family pastime all year round. Those who can handle the cold take to the lake on ice skates. 4 AUSTURVÖLLUR When the sun is shining, Austurvöllur is the place to be. Surrounded by cafés and restaurants, this public square is a popular spot for locals to dine outside, soak up some sunshine or recline on the grass with picnics. In fact, whatever the season, Austurvöllur is the place to be. It’s used for celebrations on holidays, and in December, the city’s biggest Christmas tree is located there. Due to its proximity to The House of Parliament, Austurvöllur is also a popular gathering spot for political protesters. At the centre of it all stands a statue of Jón Sigurðsson, the renowned figure who is credited with leading Iceland to independence.

Check out our centerfold map for the locations of these sights

WHAT’S ON 5 HLEMMUR The Hlemmur bus terminal has been a city centre fixture for decades – although the reason for its popularity has changed. It was transformed into a food hall a couple years back, and it’s difficult to imagine Hlemmur square without it. The food hall attracts a fun crowd, and the place is booming! With Neapolitan pizza, LA-style tacos, gourmet burgers, gelatos, and specialities from the Michelin Bib Gourmandawarded Skál, there’s something for everybody!

6 HARPA The whole 28,000m2 of Harpa stand at the edge of Reykjavík Harbour. It houses Iceland’s biggest concert hall, suitable for a broad range of concerts and cultural events, a conference centre with meeting facilities and in-house catering, as well as a couple of fine restaurants. Harpa also hosts promotions, plays, and public events. Harpa was designed by a Danish firm in cooperation with Ólafur Elíasson, an Icelandic artist, and opened to the public in 2011. 7 THE OLD HARBOUR Though it’s the oldest harbour in its original form, Reykjavík’s Old Harbour is no longer the busiest for freight. Instead, it’s an oft-visited area where you’ll find a community of shops, galleries, electric bike and scooter rentals, and tour operators. You will also find numerous whale watching companies willing to take you out to sea on unforgettable excursions. The area is filled with excellent restaurants (pizza, seafood, burgers, etc.) and cafés. The atmosphere at the old harbour is friendly, the air is fresh and salty, and there are plenty of interesting activities to check out. 8 THE SUN VOYAGER A beautiful sculpture of a Viking ship located by the ocean on a small peninsula by Sæbraut, close to downtown Reykjavík. The sculpture by Jón Gunnar Árnason symbolises the Viking past of the Icelanders and is an ode to the sun. It serves as a reminder of our history and heritage when the first Viking settlers came sailing to Iceland. The Sun Voyager looks its best when the sun is setting, at whatever time that may be. The unforgettable view of the sculpture with a backdrop of the ocean and Mt. Esja is every photographer’s dream. 9 HOUSE OF PARLIAMENT Founded in 950 AD, Iceland’s Parliament, Alþingi, is the oldest extant parliament in the world! For centuries, the Parliament gathered in the open air (on the aptly named Þingvellir, Parliament Fields), but in recent years, the members of Parliament have met in Reykjavík. The House of Parliament is a modest classical building of hewn Icelandic dolerite, and it gives Austurvöllur square a dignified look. The Parliament garden behind the building is small but lovely in the summertime. 10 LAUGARDALSLAUG Every country has traditions when it comes to leisure. Icelanders’ favourite pastime is going swimming. Laugardalslaug is the city’s largest pool with extensive facilities, located in Laugardalur valley. Its facilities include a 50m outdoor pool, an outdoor children’s pool and a paddling pool, two waterslides, numerous hot tubs, a steam bath, gym, and a mini-golf course. There really is no better place to be on a sunny day or a cold one for that matter. Right outside, you will find a hot dog stand where you can buy traditional Icelandic hot dogs.

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WHAT’S ON

Museums in Downtown Reykjavík Reykjavík’s history reaches more than a thousand years into the past, and the city has a rich cultural heritage. What better way to learn more about Icelandic culture than visiting the city centre’s museums? 1

NÝLÓ - LIVING ART MUSEUM

The Living Art Museum, or Nýló, is an artist-run museum and exhibition space with the aim of preserving and exhibiting contemporary art. Founded by artists in 1978, the museum presents a strong exhibition programme and is a venue for various events. The Living Art Museum’s collection includes over 2,200 works donated by artists, representatives, and collectors. It is located in the Marshall House, which also houses the gallery Kling & Bang, the studio of Ólafur Elíasson, and the Italian restaurant La Primavera.

THE REYKJAVÍK MARITIME MUSEUM

Located inside a former fish-freezing plant, the Reykjavík Maritime Museum currently showcases two exhibitions. The permanent Fish & Folk – 150 years of Fisheries spotlights the historical importance of fishing for the Icelandic nation, and Melckmeyt 1659, an exhibition about an underwater archaeological survey conducted near Flatey Island.

THE REYKJAVÍK MUSEUM OF PHOTOGRAPHY

The Museum of Photography’s main objective

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WHAT’S ON is to present both historical and contemporary photography in an artistic, social, and cultural context, as well as to nurture public and scholarly interest in photography. The collection’s themes range from family photographs to photos from portrait studios, industrial and advertising photography, press photography, landscape photography, and more.

THE NATIONAL GALLERY OF ICELAND

THE REYKJAVÍK ART MUSEUM

The Reykjavík Art Museum has three locations: Hafnarhús, Kjarvalsstaðir, and Ásmundarsafn. Hafnarhús serves as the museum’s institute of contemporary art, where new developments in art are explored through rotating exhibitions. An exhibition of paintings by well-known pop artist Erró is a permanent feature. Kjarvalsstaðir is devoted to one of Iceland’s most influential painters, Jóhannes Sveinsson Kjarval, and Ásmundarsafn is the former home and workshop of sculptor Ásmundur Sveinsson.

Established in 1884, the National Gallery boasts an art collection that mainly comprises 19th- and 20thcentury artworks. The Gallery possesses many of the keystones of Icelandic art history, as well as a growing collection of works from other countries. There is also a considerable emphasis placed on contextualising Icelandic art internationally. The Gallery hosts exhibitions from both contemporary and historical artists, and an exhibition showcasing Iceland’s art history is currently on display in the House of Collections on Hverfisgata.

THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ICELAND

THE SETTLEMENT EXHIBITION

The nation’s most precious treasures are kept and displayed at the National Museum of Iceland. The museum was established in 1863, and it gives an insight into Iceland’s cultural heritage from the time of the settlement up to modern times. There’s a permanent exhibition of Icelandic history and culture from the settlement era on, as well as temporary exhibitions highlighting specific eras or aspects of Iceland’s cultural heritage.

In 2001, archaeological remains of a settlement-era hall were excavated, which was inhabited from 930-1000. North of the hall, two pieces of a turf wall were found, which were built before 871. These findings are the oldest relics of human habitation found in Reykjavík. An innovative, interactive exhibition gives an impression of what life was like in those times. Objects from the age of settlement found in central Reykjavík and on Viðey island are also on display.

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WHAT’S ON

Christmas Markets A highlight of the holiday season for many Icelanders is visiting Reykjavík’s christmas markets. Handmade crafts, lopapeysa sweaters, baked goods and much much more will be for sale in small pop-up booths set up on different streets and squares. There is bound to be hot chocolate, lights, and music to get you in the festive mood!

HAFNARFJÖRÐUR CHRISTMAS MARKET

November 17 - December 23. Open Fridays 5:008:00 pm. Weekends 1:00-6:00 pm. (Skating rink is open Thursday-Sunday until the end of December) Downtown Hafnarfjörður turns into a festive market every Christmas season. Hafnarfjörður residents and local companies will participate in making this year’s Christmas Village the biggest one yet. Thorsplan plaza is transformed into a Christmas market selling everything from Icelandic design and crafts to snacks and hot drinks, there will be plenty of concerts and events, and an ice-skating rink. It is easy to get to Hafnarfjörður from Reykjavík – just jump on the no 1 bus, which will take you on a 20-minute ride straight to the downtown area for a wonderful Christmas experience.

HJARTATORG SQUARE CHRISTMAS MARKET

December 2-3, 9-10, 16-17, 21-23. Open 1:00-6:00 pm; 4:00-8:00 pm from December 21-23. The Christmas market at Hjartatorg Square is a

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WHAT’S ON classic Christmas market following the European tradition. Handicrafts, delicacies, knick-knacks, and hot chocolate are sold by a diverse selection of retailers. The goods will be sold from small wooden houses and Christmas decorations and lights everywhere will ensure the Christmas spirit is all around. Hjartatorg Square is just off the main walking street, Laugavegur, behind the 66 North clothing store.

ICE SKATING AND CHRISTMAS MARKET AT INGÓLFSTORG SQUARE

CHRISTMAS MARKET IN HEIÐMÖRK FOREST

December 2-3, 9-10, 16-17. Open 12:00-5:00 pm. The beloved wooded area on the outskirts of Reykjavík, Heiðmörk, is normally a place for hiking and mountain biking. But on the weekends leading up to Christmas, you can find a Christmas market hidden in the trees. The vendors here focus on products made with natural materials and objects inspired by or made from the forest. What better place to get in the Christmas spirit than a winter wonderland?

Weekends starting December 2, then December 2023. Check online for hours. Ingólfstorg Square is in the heart of downtown on Austurstræti and 100,000 light bulbs will light up the beautiful square. In addition to the Ingólfstorg ice-skating rink, a Christmas market will be also located at Ingólfstorg square surrounding the ice rink and down to Austurstræti street, where both refreshments and merchandise will be for sale. Helmets and skates can be rented on-site. A great place for family fun!

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WHAT’S ON

ICELANDIC

CHRISTMAS BEERS For most of the 20th century, beer was banned in Iceland. Since 1989, we’ve been doing our best to catch up and seasonal beers are becoming increasingly popular part of holiday season. The Christmas beers are only available for a limited time. They appear in bars and on Vínbúðin shelves in the beginning of November and disappear again when Christmas decoration go down or when the batch sells out - whichever comes first.

VÍKING JÓLABJÓR (Víking Christmas beer 5.0%) The most popular Icelandic Christmas beer. Richer filling and darker colour with a good hint of caramel, coffee, and burnt sugar. The secondary fermentation gives it a dense and soft flavour, great fullness, and good foam. Viking Christmas Beer is relatively light, and you can drink more of it compared to many other Christmas beers, which tend to be a bit heavier and stronger than a traditional lager.

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WHAT’S ON EINSTÖK DOPPELBOCK (Einstök Doppelbock 6.7%) This beer has possibly scored the highest, on average, of all beers in the country’s Christmas beer tastings over the past years. There’s no need to introduce the Einstök beer to the country. People always want to have a few of these during Christmas. Description: Reddish-brown in colour, complex with a strong aroma of caramel, malt, pine, along with notes of chocolate and citrus. A moderately sweet beer but with a slight bitterness that makes it a good companion to food.

THULE JÓLABJÓR (Thule Christmas beer 5.2%) The Thule Christmas beer is renowned for its festive spirit and noticeable presence during the holiday season in Iceland. Connoisseurs eager to sample a variety of Christmas beers often find Thule stands out. Not only does it consistently excel in taste tests, but its pleasing profile also allows for enjoyable, extended drinking sessions. This medium-dark beer boasts a rich, full-bodied experience. Crafted with a blend of Pilsner, caramel, and Munich malts, it also incorporates a hint of licorice. The flavour profile is a harmonious mix of caramel and chocolate, rounded off with a lingering, satisfying licorice aftertaste.

HVÍT JÓL (White Christmas 5.0%) White Christmas captures the true spirit of Icelandic Christmas with a mandarinorange aroma that will make your taste buds sing Bing Crosby. Stop dreaming about it. Take a sip. A delightful change from the mediumdark and dark Christmas beers that have been predominant in Iceland.

JÓLABÓNDI IPA (Christmas Farmer IPA 6.0%) Christmas in the countryside is different from that in the city. Whether it’s Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, or any other day during the holidays, the animals still need care. Therefore, no one deserves the ‘Christmas Farmer’ beer more than the one who opens it after a day’s work on Christmas Eve. Christmas Farmer is an IPA beer, with Citra and Amarillo hops giving it a fresh citrus and berry flavour. Much like the Icelandic farmer, this beer is well-balanced. This means that the beer closely resembles Icelandic Christmas; lively but can seem bitter at times. Cheers to the Icelandic farmer, especially during Christmas!

VÍKING LITE JÓL (Víking Lite Christmas 4.4%) Viking Lite with a caramel flavour. Lite beers are becoming increasingly popular, and this beer should be a hit with those who generally prefer Lite beers. A festive Lite beer – there’s a good chance this will be a success!

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WHAT’S ON

Christmas Events THE VALLEY OF LIGHTS

REYKJAVÍK FAMILY ZOO - DEC. 2-DEC. 23 The family park that sits in the back of the Reykjavík Zoo becomes a beautiful display of Christmas lights during the Advent season. From Thursday through Sunday during this time, the park will be open from 10am-8pm. Some of the rides are still operational, such as the roundabout. Admission is free for children under 12. While in the area, take a walk through the Botanical Garden, which will also be lit up with Christmas lights.

THE YULE LADS CHRISTMAS GAME

DOWNTOWN REYKJAVÍK-DECEMBER 1 Starting on December 1, you will be able to find the pesky Yule Lads in 3D hanging around on houses and buildings all around Reykjavík. Can you find them all? If so, you can win a prize from the city! Children scramble around the city during the holidays to try and find all the Yule characters for a chance for a small gift card from the city.

CHRISTMAS FOOD MARKET

HARPA - DECEMBER 16-17, 11AM-5PM Christmas is a time to celebrate with friends and family, sure, but we all know what’s most important - the food! Fishermen, farmers, and small-market food companies gather at Harpa for the Christmas Food Market. Showcasing some of the best

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ingredients and products Icelandic farmers and entrepreneurs can think of, the food fair is a great spot to pick up a souvenir from Iceland - or just a snack for the road!

CHRISTMAS PROGRAMME

ÁBÆR OPEN AIR MUSEUM DECEMBER 10 & 17 - 1PM-4PM Celebrate Christmas in the old-fashioned way at the Christmas Programme at the Árbær Open Air Museum. The oldest houses in Reykjavík will be fully decorated for the season, and inside each building, you can find something new: someone cooking a smelly pot of Skate, a place to decorate the traditional Leaf Bread, and a demonstration on how candles are made. You can make your own holiday card before singing and dancing around the big Christmas tree. But be on the lookout! The Yule Lads will surely be running around the museum!

THE YULE LADS VISIT THE NATIONAL MUSEUM

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ICELAND DECEMBER 12-24 The Yule Lads visit the National Museum from the 12th of December until 24th, daily at 11am. They wear their old Icelandic costumes and sing and tell children (and adults) stories. Admission ticket is needed.

WHAT’S ON

NEW YEAR’S EVE BONFIRES Once New Year’s Eve rolls around, Icelanders tend to discover their inner pyromaniacs. Besides the tonnes of fireworks that are ignited every year, Icelanders also boast the unique tradition of New Year’s bonfires. The first documented New Year’s Eve bonfire occurred in 1791 when a group of schoolboys standing on a hill in downtown Reykjavík, which they nicknamed Vulcan (in honour of the Roman god of fire) - gathered some old barrels and lit them. Since then, the tradition of New Year’s Eve bonfires has spread throughout the country. New Year’s bonfires have changed a bit over time though; in the beginning, they revolved largely around causing a drunken ruckus. These days, however, they’re more of a family affair, with families gathering around in a symbolic ritual of leaving the old year behind. Bonfires take place all over the capital area, and we encourage you to track one down and take part in this longstanding tradition.

New Year’s Eve bonfires in the Capital Area The closest bonfire to the city centre, takes place on Ægisíða (1), right by the seaside. We suggest heading over to get into the mood for the night. Below you will find 9 locations where the largest bonfires of New Year’s Eve will take place (larger bonfires are marked on the map with a larger fire symbol). Most of the bonfires will be lit at 20:30 on New Year’s Eve, except for the bonfire on Úlfarsfell mountain (3), which is lit at 15:00, and the one in Skerjafjörður (2), which is lit at 21:00 following a torch parade. Fireworks are strictly forbidden at bonfires for safety reasons. There is no organised schedule for these events, but people normally gather to sing songs and we urge you to join in. Hum it till you make it.

1 3 2

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WHAT’S ON

The Christmas Book Flood An extraordinary amount of books are published in Iceland each year, considering the size of the nation. The Christmas season is the most important period in publishing in Iceland because books are a particularly popular Christmas gift. The majority of books are sold in December and for a few weeks around Christmas, every Icelander is a literary critic! It’s known as the Christmas book flood, so take a dive! THE SAGAS OF THE ICELANDERS

BY AUTHORS UNKNOWN

You can get a collection with all the sagas, but we recommend starting with the most popular ones, such as the epic Njáls Saga, the adventurous Egill’s Saga, or the romantic Laxdæla Saga. Reading these centuriesold texts is challenging but rewarding at the same time.

THE FISH CAN SING

BY HALLDÓR LAXNESS

Independent People is Halldór’s best-known novel and it is nothing short of a masterpiece, but it’s also a bleak and depressing portrait of a poor farmer’s life complete with domestic violence, class injustice, child labour, and light paedophilia. What we’re saying is that this is no fun summer read. If you think you’re up for it, by all means, go ahead, but for a more palatable taste of Laxness, we recommend picking up The Fish Can Sing, a charming coming-of-age story set in Reykjavík at the turn of the century.

DEVIL’S ISLAND

BY EINAR KÁRASON

Devil’s Island by Einar Kárason tells the story of life in Iceland after World War II, when families were living in barracks left by the US army. The rural community

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WHAT’S ON by algorithms matching people to their mates, and people can making a living as influencers by secretly advertising products through their lifestyle. Frightening, isn’t it? An unconventional love story set among Iceland’s stunning landscapes.

in Iceland conflicted with American pop culture brought to the country by American troops during the war. The story revolves around one family and reads just like an Icelandic saga. The movie adaption of the book by director Friðrik Þór Friðriksson was released in 1996.

I REMEMBER YOU

BY YRSA SIGURÐARDÓTTIR

LOVESTAR

BY ANDRI SNÆR MAGNASON

Among Andri’s oeuvre is a book of discount poetry sold in grocery stores, children’s books, and a non-fiction books on the state of Iceland’s industry and its future direction. He also ran for president of Iceland in 2016 and came in third. LoveStar is a dystopian novel, initially published in 2002, set in a future where a giant corporation controls the lives of people through their personal data, love is controlled

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Yrsa is the queen of Icelandic crime fiction. Despite writing about horrific crimes in a country with statistically less than one murder per year, Yrsa is knwown for writing believable and threedimensional characters as well as a thrilling plot with twists and turns aplenty. Her books about Þóra Guðmundsdóttir, a crime-solving lawyer, are immensely popular, but she’s also written a few more thrilling stories stretching into the realm of ghost stories and the supernatural. I Remember You combines an eerie ghost story with crime fiction and was made into a movie in 2017.

GIVE THE GIFT OF ICELAND REVIEW THIS CHRISTMAS

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WHAT’S ON

New in Town Radar Reykjavík

Tryggvagata 22 A new nightclub featuring the latest in electronic dance music has taken over the space previously known as “Húrra”. Radar cultivates a certain international vibe, as there are numerous DJ’s playing every weekend, including artists from Poland and locals from Iceland. With a big dance floor, Radar is finally filling the gap left by Reykjavík scene legend, Nasa. Will it be the Icelandic Berghain?

SvartbySvart & friends

Klapparstígur 29 The Reykjavík-based design brand has just opened a pop-up shop in Klapparstígur, right next to Laugavegur. The brand creates unisex hand-made clothing in a sustainable manner, inspired by Scandinavian aesthetics and Japanese minimalism. SvartbySvart & friends also offers products by independent Icelandic designers, making this the perfect place to pick up a truly unique Christmas present!

The Blue Room – Anna Jóna

Radar

Tryggvagata 11 Formerly just a café, restaurant and bar; Anna Jóna has now extended its multi-purpose empire to a movie theatre. The Blue Room offers an intimate cinematic atmosphere with 25 seats in total. Now comes the exciting twist: besides watching movies, you can also sing your lungs out in an epic karaoke battle and watch live-performances in there. The theatre is free for groups above 12 people, who have dinner at Anna Jóna or it can be rented. What’s next?

Smekkleysa – Bad Taste

Hverfisgata 32 Björk’s Record Shop has now been extended to a little café and winebar. If you’re rummaging through Smekkleysa’s records and have the sudden urge to fuel yourself with some more caffeine to regain energy for going through their whole massive collection – now it’s finally possible! Hop in the record shop, look for your favourite Icelandic artists while sipping on a nice hot brew or glass of red. The Blue Room – Anna Jóna

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EVENTS NOTABLE EVENTS

HOLIDAY PARTY SCREENINGS

DECEMBER 1, 9, 15, 16, 17, 22, 26. BÍÓ PARADÍS The Party Screenings at Bió Paradís are a date night staple in Reykjavík. Classic movies and forgotten gems are shown, and everyone has a lap full of popcorn and snacks! To get in the festive mood, Bíó Paradís is offering a veritable barrage of Christmas cheer, screening family favourites such as The Holiday, Home Alone, Love Actually, The Nightmare Before Christmas, How the Grinch Stole Christmas, and It’s a Wonderful Life. Check out the schedule and get your tickets at https://bioparadis.is/.

BAROQUE ADVENT CONCERT

DECEMBER 3 HALLGRÍMSKIRKJA CATHEDRAL For those looking for a more thoughtful and cultured holiday season, Hallgrímskirkja Cathedral is hosting a baroque concert on the first of Advent. Listen to old German masters such as Telemann and Handel on the Hallgrímskirkja organ. The programme will include Telemann’s Hamburger Ebb’ und Fluth, a Handel organ concerto, and Nun komm der Heiden Heiland, also by Telemann. Tickets are available online at tix.is.

KK & MUGISON ADVENT CONCERT

DECEMBER 7 FRÍKIRKJA Get a truly Icelandic experience with two of the nation’s most beloved singer-songwriters in performance together. For the third year in a row, KK (Kristján Kristjánsson) and Mugison will be holding a special Advent concert, playing songs that every Icelander knows and loves. Tickets have sold out to past performances, and it’s recommended to buy tickets early online. Tickets are available online at tix.is.

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EVENTS NOTABLE EVENTS

REYKJAVÍK MEN’S CHOIR

DECEMBER 9-10 HALLGRÍMSKIRKJA CATHEDRAL This annual concert series is being held for the 30th time in Reykjavík’s beautiful Hallgrímskirkja Cathedral. The programme will include a delightful blend of traditional Christmas music, both welland lesser-known. With special guest Benedikt Kristjánsson, a tenor who has gained accolades for his performances of Bach, it’s sure to be a wonderful evening of music and song. Tickets are available online at tix.is.

CHRISTMAS SYMPHONY CONCERTS

DECEMBER 16-17 ELDBORG, HARPA The Icelandic Symphony Orchestra returns with its beloved series of Christmas concerts. Hear modern Christmas classics performed alongside the triedand-true Christmas traditions in a performance that’s guaranteed to get the whole family in the Christmas spirit! Local young musicians will also be in attendance alongside Icelandic pop legend, Páll Óskar. If you’re looking for your dose of holiday cheer, this is it!

BRÍET

DECEMBER 17 ELDBORG, HARPA If we had to put one face to Icelandic pop music right now, we’d have to go with Bríet. Since the release of her 2020 album Kveðja, Bríet, she’s earned herself a place in the hearts and ears of the nation. She has also become famous as a spectacular live performer, known for her showmanship, warmth, and sincerity. At her upcoming concert in Harpa’s Silfurberg concert hall, she’ll be performing her beloved hits, in addition to some Christmas remixes.

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MUSEUMS & EXHIBITIONS

EVENTS SIGURJÓN ÓLAFSSON MUSEUM Paintings and installations by Þuríður Sigurðardóttir

For the past 20 years, Þuríður, also known as Þura, has been making innovative visual art that deals in various ways with the Icelandic landscape. From interesting perspectives on mossy rocks, icebergs, and mountains, Þuríður’s unique style blends naturalism and the abstract, giving you a whole new look on Iceland. Runs from September 30 - Spring 2024.

REYKJAVIK ART MUSEUM ÁSMUNDARSAFN Ásmundur Sveinsson and Carl Milles

The exhibition features the works of sculptors Ásmund Sveinsson (18931982) and Carls Milles (1875-1955) from Sweden and is part of the collaboration between Millesgården Museum and Ásmundarsafn- both museums dedicated to the life and work of the two artists. Carl Milles is one of Sweden’s most respected sculptors and, like Ásmundur, he donated his house, studio and work to the public after his death. Carl Milles was Ásmundur´s mentor during his student years in Stockholm. The strong bond between these two artists has been well documented. Their works will be presented side-byside in Iceland for the first time this year at Ásmundarsafn.

Carl Milles

I8 GALLERY Nichinichi-So by Yui Yaegashi

Ends December 23th Yui Yaegashi is a Japanese artist known for her precise and layered oil paintings. Her style involves intricate patterning, exploring the balance between symmetry and asymmetry. She approaches her exhibitions and artistic practice in a unique way, and works on multiple paintings simultaneously, seamlessly transitioning between them. The artist considers an exhibition space while physically present with her paintings, reacting to the environment and creating a harmonious relationship between her art and the space it occupies. Yui Yaegashi has already exhibited her works all around the world, including Vienna, Shanghai, and New York.

AURORA REYKJAVÍK Catch the Aurora Borealis All Year Round

There is perhaps nothing more magical than witnessing the beauty of a northern lights display. However, those unpredictable, ever

dancing lights don’t always show up on cue – and fade away during the summer months. So, it is with great joy that we welcome Aurora Reykjavík – The Northern Lights Centre, where the northern lights are always on display. Aurora Reykjavík’s pull and ace up its sleeve is its fantastic 4k timelapse film of the Aurora Borealis. Aurora Reykjavík’s latest additions are virtual reality goggles featuring the world’s first 360° movie of aurora displays entirely shot in Iceland. If you can’t catch the northern lights yourself, this utterly realistic experience is definitely the next best option to witness the beauty of this truly amazing phenomenon.Capturing the northern lights with your own camera can be challenging, but at Aurora Reykjavík, you receive instruction by the experts: bring your camera and try the right settings at the Northern Lights Photo Simulator. In the exhibition, you will find an entertaining selfie booth – have fun looking all fabulous under the northern lights! For more information, see www.aurorareykjavik.is.

Aurora Reykjavík

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EVENTS MUSEUMS & EXHIBITIONS

NATIONAL GALLERY OF ICELAND Some New Works

Iceland’s National Gallery plays an important role curating a collection that reflects trends and movements not just in Iceland, but from all over the world. Some New Works highlights some of the National Gallery’s most recent acquisitions, giving visitors an insight into the cutting-edge frontiers of Icelandic visual art. The most recent set of acquisitions focuses on different perceptions of the Icelandic landscape, with work from different generations of artists across diverse media.

Egill Snæbjörnsson and the Endless Friends of the Universe

In Egill Sæbjörnsson’s creative world, joy and playfulness abound. The diversity of the material world and the boundless imagination spring forth like bubbles in the form of music, installations, living sculptures, and vividly imagined travel companions. In the exhibition, Egill invites an infinite number of friends to join in a collaborative moment in his artistic playground.

ÁSGRÍMUR JÓNSSON COLLECTION A Window in Reykjavík – Ásgrímur Jónsson’s house

The exhibition A Window in Reykjavík comprises a selection of

Ásgrímur Jónsson

Egill Snæbjörnsson works by Ásgrímur Jónsson. The common feature of these works is that they relate to the artist’s surroundings in Reykjavík. The works form part of the collection of the National Gallery of Iceland; Ásgrímur Jónsson bequeathed to the Icelandic nation all his works of art, along with his home and studio at Bergstaðastræti 74, Reykjavík. Ásgrímur Jónsson (1876–1958) is one of the pioneers in the history of Icelandic art; he was the first Icelandic painter to make a career in art. The view from the window of Vinaminni, where he first lived on his return to Iceland, became a favourite motif for him, with its vista of Reykjavík Harbour and Mt. Esja across the bay. The view to the south from the skylight of his studio at Bergstaðastræti would later also inspire him. Watercolour was an appropriate medium for capturing the quality of the light over the waters of Skerjafjörður and the houses on Laufásvegur. Ásgrímur’s life and oeuvre span a long period of Iceland’s history – a time when the old rural society was starting to decline and Reykjavík was growing from a town into a city. Many of Ásgrímur’s paintings from Reykjavík, painted in the first half of

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the 20th century, depict a peaceful little town where houses cluster along the ocean shore; yet they also show economic activity, such as workmen building roads as the new urban society evolves.

REYKJAVIK ART MUSEUM KJARVALSSTAÐIR Hekla Dögg Jónsdóttir: 0° 0° Núlleyja

In her latest exhibition, Hekla Dögg Jonsdóttir questions the given of human-made creations. With the example of “Núlleyja”, an imaginary place in the middle of the Gulf of Guinea where both equators intersect, the artist introduces her theme of examining concepts that usually remain unquestioned. Hekla Dögg’s work makes one wonder about the existence of time and place, while leading into a new form of reality. As one of seven influential artists, she was chosen to be part of the Reykjavík Art Museum’s exhibition series. Apart from Iceland, the artist has also exhibited her work abroad, such as in the Tate Modern Museum in London and in Canada.

EVENTS

This exhibition showcases artworks by numerous Icelandic artists and Iceland’s most influential painter Jóhannes S. Kjarval, over the span of sixty years after the turn of the 20th century. During Kjarval’s lifetime, enormous changes shaped the Icelandic society, orchestrated by industrialization and travels abroad. Icelandic artists returned from Europe with fresh ideas in their minds, inspired for a shift in their artistic styles. When Modernity anchored depicts that paradigm shift in breaking away from naturalistic imagery to a more symbolism-oriented artstyle.

THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ICELAND The Making of a Nation Heritage and History in Iceland The National Museum of Iceland’s permanent exhibition, Making of a Nation – Heritage and History in Iceland, is intended to provide insight into the history of the Icelandic nation from the settlement to the present day. The aim is to cast light on the Icelanders’ past by placing the cultural heritage preserved by the National Museum in a historical context, guided by the question: what makes a nation? The exhibition includes about 2,000 objects dating from the Settlement Age to the present, as well as about 1,000 photographs from the 20th century. The exhibition is conceived as a journey through time: it begins with the ship in which mediaeval settlers crossed the ocean to their new home, and it ends in a modern airport, the Icelanders’ gateway to the world.

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITIONS

Kjarval and the 20th Century: When Modernity Anchored

the most significant Icelandic artworks of the past centuries and were traditionally showcased in churches and people’s homes. The oldest pieces in the exhibition are dated before 1400, while the youngest cloths are from 1677. Exceptionally, six garments were borrowed from foreign museums, such as the Louvre in Paris, the National Museum in Copenhagen and the Rijksmuseum in Twente. This landmark exhibition will be the first time that all of these surviving art pieces will be shown in one place.

My Favourite Things

Although this exhibition is not necessarily new, it deserves more attention. My Favourite Things, which, at first glance, looks just like a list of things people left behind when they died. But these probates tell us how Icelanders lived in the 18th and 19th centuries, what they owned, and how their lives differed from people in different classes. The exhibition juxtaposes information gathered from probate inventories what people had in their possession when they passed away - preserved at the National Archives and the artefact collections of the National Museum in order to dive into the material world of Icelanders from earlier centuries. What did people possess? How much worth was

Making of a Nation their belongings? How do the possessions of people of the past reflect in the preserved cultural heritage of the nation?

If Garden Gnomes Could Speak “If Garden Gnomes Could Speak” is a unique photography exhibition which takes a look at a peculiar community of mobile homes and RVs near Laugarvatn lake. Photographers Þórdís

Icelandic Needlework of the past centuries (Með verkun handanna)

The “Refill” cloths, old Icelandic needlework garments, are among

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If Garden Gnomes Could Speak

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITIONS

EVENTS Erla Ágústsdóttir and Sigríður Marrow visited the community at Laugarvatn a few years ago, capturing the essence of life at the location over three summers. The exhibition is a document of this community and features people enjoying each other’s company, finding time in nature, and simply being themselves.

Light and Play

Adjacent to An Eternity in a Moment is another photography exhibition at the National Museum titled Light and Play. It consists of six photo albums by Ragnheiður Bjarnadóttir. This personal collection depicts an individual’s journey from childhood to adulthood and sheds light on the multi-layered meaning of photography.

From Mire to Metal

In the past, iron smelting from bog iron was performed in Iceland. The use of metallurgical furnaces called bloomeries were used to smelt iron throughout the Middle Ages. Thereafter the practice steadily declined until it was completely abandoned in the 17th or 18th century. The knowledge of this ancient craftmanship has since been forgotten to time, leaving numerous questions about the bloomery process unanswered. For a long time, scientists have attempted to answer questions about bloomery in Iceland. How was bog iron processed? How were bloomery furnaces constructed, isolated, and ignited? What quality of iron could be produced from Icelandic bog iron?

have long attracted visitors. The exhibition features a series of photographs showcasing the summer vacation spot and the school community at Laugarvatn. Additionally, the exhibition includes a series of photographs from the National Sports Competition in 1965.

ÁRBÆR OPEN AIR MUSEUM Árbær was an established farm well into the 20th century, and the museum opened there in 1957. Árbær is now an open-air museum with more than 20 buildings which form a town square, a village and a farm. Most of the buildings have been relocated from central Reykjavik.Árbær Open Air Museum tries to give a sense of the architecture and way of life and lifestyles of the past in Reykjavík and during summer visitors can see domestic animals. There are many exhibitions and events held at the Museum, which highlight specific periods in Reykjavik’s history. These include craft days, vintage car displays, Christmas exhibitions and much more. There is something for everyone at Árbær Open Air Museum.

Karólína the Weaver

Karólína Guðmundsdóttir (1897-1981) learned weaving in Copenhagen, and for several decades she ran a weaving atelier on Ásvallagata in Reykjavík. She wove upholstery and curtain fabrics for public bodies, businesses and homes, where the colours and textures harmonised with their surroundings. Her embroidery fabrics were used in school pupils‘ needlework projects for many years, and embroidered wall-hangings and cushions from Karólína‘s atelier adorned many Icelandic homes. She was thus an influence upon Icelanders‘ home furnishings and taste. In addition, her work led people to recognise the fine qualities of Icelandic wool and changed attitudes to crafts and needlework.

Consumption - Reykjavík in the 20th century The exhibition aims to show the huge and rapid changes that took place in consumption patterns in Reykjavík during the 20th century – to explore the factors that affected consumption, and how technical advances, government actions, wars, and events in Iceland and abroad influenced the daily life of the people of Reykjavík.

The Summer Resort Laugarvatn

Exhibition featuring photographs from the summer resort Laugarvatn. Laugarvatn has always been a popular recreational spot for Icelanders. The location is on a beaten track, and the hot springs

Árbær open air museum

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WELCOME TO ICELAND

THE LOCAL BEER LÉTTÖL

EVENTS

BEST STEAKS IN REYKJAVÍK... ...WE AGREE 78

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EVENTS MUSEUMS & EXHIBITIONS

EINAR JÓNSSON MUSEUM This is a museum in the heart of Reykjavík that houses the work of Iceland’s first sculptor Einar Jónsson. The museum contains close to 300 artworks spanning a 60-year career: carvings from the artist’s youth, sculpture, paintings and drawings. A beautiful tree-clad garden adorned with 26 bronze casts of the artist’s works is located behind the museum. The task of the museum is to collect, preserve and display the work of Einar as well as to conduct research on his life and art.

AÐALSTRÆTI

Einar Jónsson Museum

The Settlement Exhibition

An open excavation where Viking ruins meet multimedia technology. Just below ground in downtown Reykjavík, this open excavation uncovers the city’s Viking Age history. Discovered during building work in 2001, these archaeological remains turned out to be the earliest evidence of human settlement in the city, with some dating to before AD 872. Careful excavation revealed a 10th-century hall or longhouse, which is now preserved in its original location as the focal point of the exhibition. Interactive technology immerses you in the world of the Reykjavík farm at the time of the first settlers, including information on how Viking Age buildings were constructed and what life was like in the hall. The Settlement Exhibition is part of Reykjavík City Museum.

Reykjavík ...The Story Continues

Family-friendly and informative exhibition about the development of Reykjavík, from farm to city. This new display is a direct continuation of The Settlement Exhibition, representing Reykjavík’s

history from settlement to the present day. Visitors get an insight into the complex history and culture of Reykjavík through the development of house construction and planning with a stop at the oldest house in the city centre, Aðalstræti 10. The admission is valid to both Aðalstræti 10 and The Settlement Exhibition in Aðalstræti 16.

MUSEUM OF DESIGN AND APPLIED ART Dolinda Tanner

On a quest for adventure, Swiss artist Dolinda Tanner travelled to Iceland in the late 40s and found her passion for ceramics here on the island. As a graduate of arts from the universities in Geneva and Basel, central European traditions and modernism, have influenced her work immensely. Vivid colours, geometric shapes and visionary pieces shape her distinct style of ceramic design. Friendship, love and art made her stay in Iceland until her early death in 1967.

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REYKJAVIK MUSEUM OF PHOTOGRAPHY Anni Kinnunen – The Great Escape

Anni Kinnunen’s exhibition features artworks that seem entirely unreal. Vivid colours, strange atmospheres and otherworldly nature shots characterize her artwork. Yet, her photographs are entirely authentic and not created using any editing software. Distinctively, The Great Escape captures the modern times we live in, where reality becomes increasingly abstract and difficult to grasp. The Finnish artist has already exhibited her photographs across the world; such as in Japan, USA, Germany and Finland.

Anni Kinnunen

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITIONS

EVENTS Gréta Guðjónsdóttir: Fate and Destiny

This exhibition, whose full title is “19, 24, 29, 34, 39: Fate and Destiny” comprises a series of photographs of nine individuals taken by Gréta over a period of twenty years, together with their thoughts about life and existence. This is a unique look at how people change through their lives, not just in outward appearance, but in philosophy and worldview. Through these photos, Gréta asks: “When a person is 19, appearance is often very important. The individual’s philosophy in life may be read from their clothes, hairstyle, manner and home environment. But how far can each of us influence our own path in life? Do the dreams we started out with in our late teens come true?”

REYKJAVIK ART MUSEUM HAFNARHÚS Kaleidoscope – Icelandic 21st Century Art At the exhibition, you can see a selection of the works that have come to the museum in the last two decades. The collection spans as much as possible the breadth and the new emphases that can be found in the Icelandic art scene, both by recognized artists of the time as well as the work of younger generation of artists. This year, 2023, Reykjavík Art Museum celebrates 50 years since the museum’s first building was officially opened in Kjarvalsstadir.

Gréta Guðjónsdóttir

Erró On the occasion, special attention will be paid to the museum art collection and the opportunity will be used to view and display treasures from the museum´s collection. This exhibition is the third in the Kaleidoscope series - that features exhibitions in Hafnarhús and Kjarvalsstadir honouring the collection.

Erró: Cunning Scissors

Celebration of the pop art Icelandic icon Erró continues this month with an exhibition showcasing his collages. Collage has formed the basis of Erró’s artworks for over sixty years, beginning early on with his Meca-Make-Up series in 1959-60, and resulting in more than 30,000 collages today. Through collecting, cutting, pasting and then painting, Erró has freely mixed and quoted visual material, transforming it into dynamic, striking and jarring visual collisions. Throughout the exhibition, it is possible to trace Erró’s commitment to collage as a form of art in its own right, as a step to creating other artworks, and as a means to continue to narrate unexpected stories.

Klāvs Liepiņš & Renate Feizaka

D50 Klāvs Liepiņš & Renate Feizaka

The next installation of the innovative D-Gallery will feature two artists who play with themes like identity, gender and self-validation. These artists are influenced by their own upbringing in the post-Soviet generation, and their video installations and sculptures show the “complexities embedded within individual identity and the working class.” Klāvs holds a BA in Contemporary Dance from Iceland University of the Arts and Renate holds a BA in Fine Art from Iceland University of the Arts.

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INGÓLFSSTRÆTI 1A

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EVENTS

Höfuðstöðin is an art and culture centre that permanently displays the large-scale multi-sensory installation Chromo Sapiens by Shoplifter / Hrafnhildur Arnardóttir. Höfuðstöðin opened in 2022 and is the first self funded art center created by an Icelandic female artist around her own work, and raised over $100.000 on Kickstarter before its opening. Chromo Sapiens is Shoplifter’s monumental, multi-sensory, large-

scale installation that debuted at the Icelandic Pavilion for the Venice Biennale in 2019, to worldwide critical acclaim. The installation consists of three caves made from Shoplifter’s signature material, synthetic hair extensions. The installation surrounds the viewer’s horizon with soundscapes from the Icelandic band HAM in each cave. Entering the installation as homo sapiens, you are invited to explore your inner landscape through the stimulation of the senses, where you are the destination of the journey, and when exiting you have transformed into Chromo Sapiens.

THE ICELANDIC PUNK MUSEUM

Shoplifter

The Icelandic Punk Museum is located at Bankastræti 0, an underground location that served as public toilets from 1930 to 2006. The museum honours the music and the spirit that has shaped musicians and bands to this day; people

who dared to be different. Objects, photographs, videos, posters, etc. from roughly 1978 to 1992 are on display with texts in Icelandic and English, and the main music from the period is available to guests.

HOUSE OF COLLECTIONS Resistance

Resistance is an interdisciplinary exhibition for children of all ages, that bridges the gap between visual arts and science. The works in the exhibition are all in the collection of the National Gallery of Iceland. The word resistance refers to opposition in general, but it may also be read in the context of physics: the measure of a conductive material’s opposition to current flow. Resistance also signifies opposition to consumption, which we must all learn to take onboard. And resistance references essential action which must be taken by the inhabitants of this planet, against climate change.

Welcome to Jómfrúin, the home of Danish smørrebrød in Reykjavik. It all began in 1888 with Oscars Davidsen’s highly praised smørrebrød restaurant in Copenhagen. An unbroken tradition of quality and Danish culinary culture for the past 100 years. Enjoy! Open every day 11:00 - 22:00 | Lækjargata 4 | 101 Reykjavík | jomfruin.is 83

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITIONS

HÖFUÐSTÖÐIN

ART & CULTURE

ÁRBÆR OPEN AIR MUSEUM

THE SETTLEMENT EXHIBITION

REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM Reykjavík’s only open air museum, where you can stroll through the past and experience the way we lived. Fun, fascinating and full of surprises, this living museum takes you on a journey through time. Guided tours at 13:00 all year round.

REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM An open excavation where Viking ruins meet digital technology. Just below ground in downtown Reykjavík, this open excavation uncovers the city’s Viking Age history. Discovered during building work, then carefully excavated, these remnants of the past are the earliest evidence of human settlement in the city.

Kistuhylur, Reykjavík 411-6304 | reykjavikcitymuseum.is Hours: Daily 13-17

Aðalstræti 10 & 16, Reykjavík | 411-6370 www.reykjavikcitymuseum.is Hours: Daily 10-17

REYKJAVÍK ... THE STORY CONTINUES REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM The city’s oldest house, built in 1762 houses an exhibition detailing the history of Reykjavík, and the daily life of the people who inhabited it, continuing where the nearby Settlement Exhibition leaves off. Aðalstræti 10, 101 Reykjavík 411 6300 | www.borgarsogusafn.is

REYKJAVIK CITY LIBRARY

REYKJAVIK MARITIME MUSEUM

EINAR JÓNSSON MUSEUM

FREE ENTRY Looking for a place to hang out, browse the internet, get access to Wi-Fi or meet the Reykjavik locals? Then Reykjavik City Library is the perfect place to visit. Have a seat and dip into the latest magazine or relax while checking out their great selection of books. Tryggvagata 15, Reykjavík 411-6100 | borgarbokasafn.is Hours: Mon-Thu: 10-16, Fri 11-16

REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM A harbour museum exploring Iceland’s dramatic relationship with the sea. The survival of a nation depended on generations of brave fishermen heading into the unknown. Exhibitions and artefacts bring our ocean history to life.

A museum with indoor and outdoor exhibitions dedicated to the work of Einar Jónsson Iceland’s first modern sculptor (1874-1954). The museum was built in the early 1900’s when Einar Jónsson offered all of his works as a gift to the Icelandic nation.

Grandagarður 8, Reykjavík | 411-6340 www.reykjavikcitymuseum.is

Hallgrímstorg 3, Reykjavík 551-3797 | www.lej.is Hours: Tue-Sun 12-17

VIÐEY ISLAND

WHALES OF ICELAND

REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM An island, where art, history and nature lie just beyond the city shore. The combination of stunning views, historical ruins and contemporary art pieces make Viðey island something special. Just a short boat ride takes you to another world. Ferry Schedule: Weekends only. Viðey Reykjavik 411-6356. www.reykjavikcitymuseum.is

An exhibition in Reykjavík consisting of 23 life-size whale models - fun to touch and explore. Learn more about whales with in-depth multimedia and interactive information displays, videos and audio guide in several languages mixed with soothing whale sounds and underwater ambient lighting.

REYKJAVIK MUSEUM OF PHOTOGRAPHY

Fiskislóð 23-25 , Reykjavík 571-0077 | www.whalesoficeland.is Hours: Daily 10-17

REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM Reflecting the contemporary, while archiving the past – this is Reykjavík’s home of photography. Reykjavík’s main photography museum offers an ongoing programme of contemporary and historical exhibitions, and an onscreen archive of thousands of images from the past. Tryggvagata 15, Reykjavík | 411-6390 reykjavikcitymuseum.is | Hours: MonThu 10-18, Fri 11-18, Sat & Sun 13-17

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NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ICELAND

Iceland's leading art museum, established in 1884. Its collection consists mainly of 19th, 20th and 21st century art. The National Gallery possesses a coherent array of Icelandic works and a fine collection of international art. Together they constitute around 11,000 items.

Offers state-of-the-art exhibitions on the cultural history of Iceland. The permanent exhibition, Making of a Nation - Heritage and History of Iceland, gives a comprehensive picture of Iceland’s cultural history through the ages to the present day.

A museum that Icelandic sculptor Sigurjón Ólafsson’s wife founded as a tribute to his life and work in 1984. She had his studio in Laugarnes converted to an exhibition space to house his collection of works, including sculptures, sketches, drawings and biographical material.

Suðurgata 41, Reykjavík 530-2200 | www.nationalmuseum.is Hours: Tue-Sun: 10-17

Laugarnestangi 70 553-2906 | www.lso.is Hours: Closed in January

Fríkirkjuvegur 7, Reykjavík 515-9600 | www.listasafn.is Hours: Tue-Sun: 10-17

HOME OF AN ARTIST Ásgrímur Jónsson was one of the pioneers of Icelandic art and the first Icelander to take up painting professionally. Having died in 1958, he bequeathed all his works, as well as his studio home to the Icelandic nation.

THE ICELANDIC PHALLOLOGICAL MUSEUM

AURORA REYKJAVIK

Probably the most unique museum you’ll visit on your trip, the Icelandic Phallological Museum is one of a kind. Here you’ll find a collection of more than two hundred penises and penile parts belonging to almost all land and sea mammals that can be found in Iceland.

The Northern Lights Center, Aurora Reykjavik, allows you to experience the northern lights in a completely different way, both if you saw them, but as well if they escaped you while in Iceland. The centre features information, education and of course stunning visuals of the elusive lights that’ll get your heart racing.

Hafnartorg, Reykjavík 561-6663 | www.phallus.is Hours: Daily 10-19

Grandagarður 2, Reykjavík 780-4500 | www.aurorareykjavik.is Hours: Daily 9-21

PERLAN

FLYOVER ICELAND

This peculiar building, built on top of six water tanks on a hill overlooking the city, houses two exhibitions, The Wonders of Iceland and Water in Icelandic Nature. In addition, Perlan has a recently-opened planetarium, a café and gelateria, and an observation deck with a 360° view of the city and its surrounding nature.

FlyOver Iceland utilises state-of-the-art technology to give you the feeling of flight. You will hang suspended, feet dangling, before a 20-metre spherical screen while the film whisks you away on an exhilarating journey across Iceland. Special effects, including wind, mist and scents, combine with the ride’s motion to create an unforgettable experience.

MUSEUM OF DESIGN AND APPLIED ART

Bergstaðastræti 74, Reykjavík 515-9625 www.listasafn.is Hours: Tue-Sun 10-17

Varmahlíð 1, Reykjavík 566-9000 | www.perlan.is Hours: 9-22

Fiskislóð 43, 101 Reykjavík. 527-6700. www.flyovericeland.is Hours: Mon-Fri, 11:00-19:00 & Sat-Sun, 11:00-19:00.

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Its objective is to collect, study and present Icelandic design and crafts from 1900 to the present day. This young museum, the only one of its kind in Iceland, holds regular exhibitions of Icelandic and international design during the year. Exhibitions from the museum‘s own collection are regularly held. Garðatorg 1, Garðabær 512-1525 | www.honnunarsafn.is Hours: Tue-Sun 12-17 87

ART & CULTURE

SIGURJÓN ÓLAFSSON MUSEUM

NATIONAL GALLERY OF ICELAND

ART & CULTURE

KJARVALSSTAÐIR

ÁSMUNDARSAFN

HAFNARHÚS

Mainly devoted to paintings and sculpture by well-established Icelandic and international artists. Kjarvalsstaðir offers a permanent exhibition of key works by one of Iceland’s most beloved landscape painters, Jóhannes S. Kjarval, as well as changing exhibitions that explore various thematic and historical aspects of Icelandic art.

Opened in 1983, the collection is housed in a unique building designed and constructed mostly by the artist himself from 1942-1950. The original building served Sveinsson as studio and home; behind it he built a crescent-shaped structure as a work and exhibition space.

The old harbour warehouse, Hafnarhús, offers a progressive exhibition program with local and international contemporary artists. The work of current notables, art canons and newcomers is presented in six galleries. Hafnarhús is also home to the works of Erró (b. 1932), a significant player in the international pop art scene.

Flókagata 24, Reykjavík 411-6420 | www.artmuseum.is Hours: Daily 10-17

GLJÚFRASTEINN LAXNESS MUSEUM Halldór Laxness is arguably the most famous Icelandic writer of all time, and the only Icelander to have won a Nobel Prize, which he received for literature in 1955. Gljúfrasteinn was his home until his death, and today it is a museum dedicated to his life and work. Gljúfrasteinn, Mosfellsbær 586-8066 | www.gljufrasteinn.is Hours: Tue-Fri 10-17

Sigtún, Reykjavík 411-6430 | www.artmuseum.is Hours: Daily 10-17

Tryggvagata 17, Reykjavík 411-6400 | www.artmuseum.is Hours: Daily 10-17, Thu 10-22

HAFNARBORG

THE LIVING ART MUSEUM

FREE ENTRY Hafnarborg has a collection of Icelandic art and regular exhibitions presenting leading Icelandic and international artists. Collection exhibitions are a regular part of the program. Around exhibitions are workshops and guided tours. Strandgata 34, Hafnarfjörður 585-5790 | www.hafnarborg.is Hours: 12-17, closed on Tuesdays

An active exhibition space that has organized many exciting exhibitions throughout the years. They put an emphasis on introducing young Icelandic artists, as well as showcasing work by better-known Icelandic and foreign modern and contemporary artists. The Marshall House Grandagarður 20, Reykjavík 551-4350 | www.nylo.is Hours: Wed-Sun: 12-18

GERÐARSAFN

HOUSE OF COLLECTIONS

THE NORDIC HOUSE

A progressive modern art museum in Kópavogur, dedicated to sculptor Gerður Helgadóttir; the only museum in Iceland dedicated to a woman. Its collection consists of more than 1,400 works by Gerður, as well as the works of the most celebrated Icelandic artists of the 20th and 21st century.

House of collections was built in 1906 and for most of the 20th century served as the country’s National Library. The stately building currently houses the National Gallery’s exhibition Treasures of a Nation, displaying works from the Gallery’s extensive collection depicting Iceland’s art history from the early 19th century to our times.

Iceland maintains strong ties to other Nordic countries, and the center of this cooperation is the Nordic House, designed by acclaimed Finnish architect Alvar Aalto in 1968. The Nordic House is the venue if you want to enjoy the best of Icelandic culture as well as experiencing rich culture of the Nordic countries.

Hverfisgata 15, Reykjavík 515-9600 | www.listasafn.is Hours: Daily 10-17

Sturlugata 5, Reykjavík 551-7030 | www.nordice.is Hours: Tue-Sun: 10-17

Hamraborg 4, Kópavogur 441-7600 | www.gerdarsafn.is Hours: Tue-Sun 10-17

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Laxnes Horse Farm is a family owned and operated business with our horses being part of the family and treated as such. We offer a variety of day tours, combo tours and daily private tours. Please visit our site www.laxnes.is for further information and frequently asked questions. Our Tours Laxnes Special A trek on the hardy, sure-footed Icelandic horse is an experience to remember. Whether you are a beginner or expert, old or young, these friendly horses, with their alert and willing nature are indeed a pleasure to ride in their natural surroundings.

Laxnes Private Tour

Laxnes Combo Tours

The private tour is a variation of Combine our Laxnes Special our Laxnes Special tour and will tour with a variety of different have daily departures by activities in one booking for a summer 2023. You´ll be able full day of adventure. to tailor your tour time to up to Puffin or Whale watching or the two hours and enjoy the farm Golden Circle combinations with surroundings at your own pace. our riding tours are just a click away on our site.

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PUBS & NIGHTLIFE

VÍNSTÚKAN 10 SOPAR

LEBOWSKI BAR

MICROBAR

10 Sopar is the city centre’s cosiest wine bar focusing mostly on serving natural wines. If you start to get peckish after a few glasses of their delicious wines, they also serve snacks and small plates. The cosy bar is perfect for having a few glasses of wines with friends or a date.

If you are visiting Iceland for the first time then you must stop by the Lebowski Bar. Open every day from 11AM, happy hour from 4-7PM, food served until 10PM, Quiz every Thursday (free entry), live sport events on 5 HD screens and Reykjavik nightlife every Friday & Saturday.

Laugavegur 27, Reykjavík 888-2380

Laugavegur 20a, Reykjavík 552-2300 www.lebowski.is

Beer enthusiasts look no further! near the top of Laugavegur, the city’s main shopping street, you will find Micro Bar. This ambitious bar serves only beer from microbreweries! Carrying an impressive 140 different kinds of beers from all over the world, this is definitely the go-to place for beer fans, and a nice place to spend an evening. Laugavegur 86, Reykjavík

EINSTÖK

PORT 9

VEÐUR

There’s nothing like an Einstök beer after a long day of exploring Reykjavík and now there’s a whole bar dedicated to this popular brew! Einstök literally means unique and after a few sips of their refreshing craft ale, brewed with fresh water from Northern Iceland, we’re sure you’ll agree. The recently opened Laugavegur bar makes it even easier to enjoy their variety of ales, ranging from citrusy fresh white to the darkest of porters.

Port 9 wine bar is a hidden gem just off the main shopping street. Serving selected wines and a unique blend of appetizers made with the freshest seasonal ingredients, Port 9 is one of the best spots in the city to stop by for a glass of quality wine in a relaxed atmosphere.

This cozy little bar is named after the Icelandic word for weather, Icelanders’ conversation topic of choice in most situations. Offering a selection of wine, beer, and cocktails, Veður is a great spot for hanging out with friends, and the large windows make it ideal for people-watching over a drink.

Veghúsastígur 9, Reykjavík 897-8212 www.port9.is

Klapparstígur 33, Reykjavík www.vedurbarinn.is

Laugavegur 10, Reykjavík

LOFT HOSTEL

KIKI - QUEER BAR

RÖNTGEN

This hostel café/bar is bright and spacious; the perfect place to start the night. The hall hosts events most nights and on summer afternoons, the balcony is the best place in town for a beer in the sun. Last but not least, Loft has the best foosball table of all the bars in the city centre.

Kiki is the only queer bar in town these days but it is also the best one! If you’re worried you won’t find the place, don’t be. The rainbow coloured street entrance, stream of people in a dancing mood, and the far-off sound of dance-heavy beats should lead you where you want to go!

In the early 20th century, Hverfisgata 12 was home to the country’s first X-ray clinic. Today, the building houses one of the city’s newest bars but the name pays homage to the building’s long history. Expect cocktails, natural wines, and the city’s artsiest crowd having a night out.

Bankastræti 7, Reykjavík 553-8140

Laugavegur 22 www.kiki.is

Hverfisgata 12, Reykjavík www. www.rontgenbar.is

Find more recommendations on www.whatson.is

KALDI BAR

AMERICAN BAR

One of the coolest bars in Reykjavik these days is Kaldi Bar. In close cooperation with north Icelandic micro brewery of the same name, Kaldi offers you a selection of craft brewed beers on tap. Great happy hour and great fun, Kaldi is a place not to be missed!

American Bar is named appropriately since it’s an American Bar in Reykjavík, of the kind you’re probably familiar with from other countries: there are dudes, chicks and random university students partying to the latest MTV tunes. They specialize in American culture and entertainment.

Laugavegur 20b, Reykjavík 581-2200

Austurstræti 8, Reykjavík 571-9999

Klapparstígur 27, Reykjavík 581-2020 www.irishman.is

PETERSEN SVÍTAN

UPPI BAR

DEN DANSKE KRO

Built in 1926 as an apartment, the Petersen Suite is one of Reykjavík’s hidden gems. Take the elevator up to the third floor above the historic Gamla Bíó concert hall to reveal an elegant bar with one of Reykjavík’s best views. On sunny days, you need to get there early, the sunny patio fills up quickly!

Uppi Bar offers upscale dining, wine and cocktails. The name Uppi refers to its location, upstairs above the renowned Fish Market Restaurant. You can expect the same exquisite attention to detail and delicious food, but in a casual bar setting, perfect for happy hour or a fancy start to a night out.

This homey pub with a Danish theme is popular among locals. Happy hour every day from 4-7pm and live music with talented Icelandic musicians every night. Beer bingo every month and other fun events! Located in the heart of the city centre.

Ingólfsstræti 2a 3rd floor, Reykjavík 563-4000 | www.ktf.is

Aðalstræti 12, Reykjavík 571-8788

Ingólfsstræti 3, Reykjavík 552-0070 www.danski.is

KAFFIBARINN

SESSION

THE ENGLISH PUB

Best known as Damon Albarn’s hangout place back in the day, this most famous bar in Iceland is a popular destination for the artsy crowd. During the week it‘s more of a café, but on the weekend the volume rises and KB becomes one of the hottest bars in Reykjavik.

Every Friday and Saturday night the newly established Club Sólon is booming with music, dancing, cocktails and drinks on two floors until 4AM in the morning. Start your evening on the cozy 1st floor lounge area with 2-for-1 cocktails and then dance the night away with the local crowd.

A popular pub in city centre. The English Pub offers happy hour every day from 4-7pm, live music every night, wheel of fortune and all major sport events are shown on 6 HD screens. Special events: Open Mic Tuesday, Guinness Thursday and Whisky Sunday.

Bergstaðastræti 1, Reykjavík 551-1588 www.kaffibarinn.is

Bankastræti 14, 2nd floor, Reykjavík

Austurstræti 12, Reykjavík 578-0400 facebook.com/enskibarinn

Find more recommendations on www.whatson.is

PUBS & NIGHTLIFE

THE IRISHMAN PUB An Irish-style pub in downtown Reykjavík. Happy hour every day from 12PM to 7PM! Guests can enjoy a game of darts, listen to live music Thursday to Sunday evenings, spin the wheel of fortune and you can even book a private karaoke room! Sláinte.

ICELANDIC GASTROPUB

HAPPIEST HAPPY HOUR IN REYKJAVÍK

1.090

1.790 SÆTA SVÍNIÐ / Hafnarstræti 1-3 / Tel. 555 2900 / saetasvinid.is

NAUTHÓLL

GRANDI MATHÖLL

Looking out over the Nauthólsvík beach, this charming Scandinavianinspired bistro is the perfect oasis from the stress of the everyday. Whether you’re there for a light lunch, a glass of wine on a sunny afternoon, a cup of hot coffee on a cold one, or a lovely dinner with a loved one, Nauthóll is the place to go.

Grandi Mathöll is a must visit for foodies. Situated in the hip Grandi area, the European style food hall has everything from fresh salmon ceviche to Vietnamese spring rolls and Korean tacos. Right next door is one of Iceland’s busiest harbours, and visitors can see a feed of live ship arrivals.

Tryggvagata 4-6, Reykjavík 561-1111 | www.steik.is

Nauthólsvegi 106, 101 Reykjavík 599-6660 | www.nautholl.is

Grandagarður 16, Reykjavík 577-6200 | www.grandimatholl.is

DUCK & ROSE

THE ICELANDIC BAR

THE LAUNDROMAT CAFE

This trendy restaurant overlooking Austurvöllur square serves light and delicious food, inspired by French and Italian cuisine. The duck dishes are highly recommended but whatever you do, don’t forget to order one of their expertly mixed cocktails!

The Icelandic Bar is very aptly named: it is an Icelandic bar. But more than that, it is a bar that aims to preserve the essence of being Icelandic by combining the historical and cultural heritage of this ancient land with the very hip and cutting edge culture of modern times.

Situated right downtown in Austurstræti, Laundromat houses laundry facilities and a family-friendly environment. A spacious recreational room downstairs will keep your children busy while you’re chomping on the bistro menu. Whether it’s brunch, board games or beer you’re looking for, Laundromat should have you covered.

Austurstræti 14 101 Reykjavík 551 1020 | www.duckandrose.is Mar

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Hot

Gei

Ingólfsstræti 1a, Reykjavík 517-6767 www.islenskibarinn.is

Austurstræti 9, Reykjavík

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HORNIÐ

FISH AND CHIPS VAGNINN

SPÁNSKI BARINN

Italian restaurant Hornið is a Reykjavík restaurant institution at this point, having opened in 1979. Situated in downtown Reykjavík, it was the first Italian restaurant in town and is as strong as ever. Expect fresh pizza, made right in front of the guests in the open kitchen. The cosy place is also a decent spot for people watching, with its large windows.

The fish and chips stand down by the old harbour combines the best of British and Icelandic culture, with fresh, quality Icelandic fish served in the traditional British way. You can even get mushy peas and malt vinegar with it! Festing on hot fish and chips while looking over the old harbour is an unbeatable Reykjavík experience.

Situated just off Laugavegur, the Spanish style bodega Spánski barinn offers fresh tapas and a quality wine selection. In a dim and cosy basement, guests can enjoy a quality happy hour chock full of wines from Tempranillo to Rioja, as well as a house red on tap.

Hafnarstræti 15, Reykjavík 551-3340 I www.hornid.is

Between the Reykjavík Maritime Museum and Reykjavík Marina Hotel 840-4100 | fishandchipsvagninn.is

Find more recommendations on www.whatson.is

Ingólfsstræti 8, Reykjavík 832-8881

WINING & DINING

THE STEAK HOUSE A restaurant opposite the old harbour that offers traditional steak dishes along with some exciting and fairly unorthodox choices. The pride and joy of The Steakhouse is the Mibrasa charcoal oven, a rare oven that is designed to cook the perfect steak by mixing modern technology with ancient tradition.

WINING & DINING

FORRÉTTABARINN

FORSETINN

JÓMFRÚIN

Tasty tapas with an Icelandic twist. With a new spin on traditional Icelandic cuisine and an extensive selection of local beer, Forréttabarinn – “The Starters Bar” – is worth seeking out when you need a bite to eat or a place to start your night out in Reykjavík. Whatever you choose from the refreshingly creative menu, you’re in for a treat!

Feeling presidential? Why not sit down for a powerful beverage (hot or cold) or even a light meal fit for a president in the cosy retro atmosphere on the city’s main street. Forsetinn (Icelandic for President) is a versatile spot - café, bistro, and bar - perfect for people watching at any time of the day.

An open-sandwich restaurant in the Danish tradition offering authentic Danish smørrebrød along with a selection of hot dishes. The restaurant is located in the heart of the city centre and seats 80 guests. It is a popular lunch venue, especially with people from the business sector.

Laugavegur 51, Reykjavík 860 9640 www.forsetinncafe.is

Lækjargata 4, Reykjavík 551-0100 www.jomfruin.is

Nýlendugata 14, Reykjavík 517-1800 | www.forrettabarinn.is

KRYDD RESTAURANT

SKREIÐ

SÓLON ÍSLANDUS

KRYDD is an à la carte restaurant that offers a dinner and lunch menu, along with appetizers and a state of the art cocktailbar. On Sundays, it offers a brunch buffet between 11:00 AM - 3:00 PM.

Skreið is the latest star in the Reykjavík restaurant scene’s night sky, a wine bar and small-plates restaurant positively oozing that oldschool 101 Reykjavík charm. Rest assured that on a night out, the wine will be delicious, the food delectable, the vibe cool and relaxed, and the place and the people stylish. What more could you ask for?

Sólon Íslandus is a family-friendly restaurant located right in the heart of Reykjavík, perfect for people-watching! Sólon was completely refurbished and redesigned over the last few months and re-opened with a fresh and elegant new look. Sólon has a lunch and dinner menu with several meat and fish dishes and some vegetarian options. Open every day.

Hafnarborg, Strandgötu 34, Hafnarfjörður www.kryddveitingahus.is Open: M-T 11-23, F-S, 11-01, S 11-23

HLEMMUR MATHÖLL Hlemmur Mathöll is a European style food hall featuring global delicacies alongside tasty Icelandic dishes. A former bus station, Hlemmur is now the new home for gourmands and fast food lovers alike in Reykjavík. Hlemmur brims with life on both weekends and weekdays alike, so head on down to see what the fuss is about. Laugavegur, Reykjavík 787-6200 | www.hlemmurmatholl.is

Laugavegur 4, Reykjavík www.skreid.is

Bankastræti 7, Reykjavík www.solon.is

REYKJAVÍK MEAT STEAKHOUSE As the name suggests, Reykjavík Meat is the city’s newest new steakhouse. The food is cooked over coals giving it a delicious flavour, and crowning their menu is the award-winning sashi marbled beef. They also offer seafood, lamb and vegetarian and vegan dishes, as well as delicious cocktails! Frakkastígur 8, Reykjavík 557-7665 | www.rvkmeat.is

BÆJARINS BEZTU Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur literally means The Town’s Best Hot Dogs. A must try while visiting, it is the perfect on-the-go food. We dare you to time the hot dog artists at Bæjarins Beztu after you order ‘ein með öllu’ (one with everything). They are incredibly quick to make a concoction of raw onions, fried onions, ketchup, remoulade, Icelandic mustard and the dog itself. Tryggvagata 1, 101 Reykjavík 511-1566 | www.bbp.is

Find more recommendations on www.whatson.is

BASTARD

PUBLIC HOUSE

This Irish-bar looking restaurant is one of the city’s best places to sit down for a quick lunch and end up whiling away a whole afternoon in the cosy booth while the game is on or on the sunny patio. The weekend-bottomless brunch is particularly popular. so make sure to get a reservation!

Grandagarður 20 & Harpa Concert hall, Reykjavík 519-7766 www.laprimavera.is

Vegamótastígur 4, Reykjavík 558-0800 www.bastardbrewandfood.is

This Laugavegur gastropub is a great place to treat yourself to a a dinner and some drinks with friends, old and new. With a delicious menu of Asian-fusion inspired small plates to share and an even more delicious menu of cocktails, Public House is a recipe for a fun evening. If you want a fun morning or a fun afternoon instead, check out their bottomless brunch! Laugavegur 24, 101 Reykjavík www.publichouse.is

KOPAR

GRILLHÚSIÐ

BREWDOG

Kopar is a restaurant by the old harbour in Reykjavik which has an emphasis on adventure and experience in a brasserie setting. Their menu is composed of various locally sourced ingredients from sea and land, and aims to give you a taste of Iceland in a single evening.

A fun restaurant, with the look and feel of an American Diner. Reasonably priced, offering delicious food and a very good service, you‘ll definitely get great value for your money here. They put a special emphasis on using only high quality ingredients, making for a terrific meal.

Hop lovers, rejoice! UK’s Craft Beer Phenomenon just opened a bar and restaurant in downtown Reykjavik, located at the corner of Hverfisgata and Frakkastigur. Featuring 20 taps including BrewDog’s headliners, seasonals and one off brews as well as great local Icelandic craft beers. Highly impressive food menu and a very cosy atmosphere.

Geirsgata 3, Reykjavík 567-2700 www.koparrestaurant.is

Laugavegur 96, Reykjavík 527-5000 www.grillhusid.is

Frakkastígur 8, Reykjavík www.brewdog.com

MONKEYS

FISH COMPANY

BRAUÐ & CO

Monkeys is an exciting restaurant offering Nikkei cuisine, a fusion of Japanese recipes and traditions with Peruvian ingredients. Exciting flavours of miso, ginger, soy, wasabi, and rice vinegar are mixed with quinoa, bell peppers, Andean potatoes, and corn, in a beautiful setting that creates just the right atmosphere. A great addition to the Reykjavík culinary scene!

Quality, fusion and fun are the Fish Company’s main characteristics. The interior is stylish and the quirky tableware fits in wonderfully. The menu is a world of adventures from starters to deserts. It’s designed to take you on a seafood journey and not only a journey of the Icelandic culinary waters but a trip around the world.

Head out to Brauð & Co. to get your hands on the scrumptious sourdough bread and tasty cinnamon buns. The early bird gets the worm, so don't be late! Keep in mind that the queue can get quite long, but it's well worth it.

Klapparstígur 30, 101 Reykjavík 519-5350 | www.monkeys.is

Vesturgata 2a, Reykjavík 552-5300 | www.fiskfelagid.is

Find more recommendations on www.whatson.is

Opens early, closes at 18:00. Frakkastígur 16, Reykjavík Fákafen 11, Reykjavík www.braudogco.is

WINING & DINING

LA PRIMAVERA One of Iceland’s most treasured restaurants has made a comeback. The Italian delicacies of La Primavera are here to stay. Situated in the Marshall building, a former fishing warehouse, the building is also home to an art gallery, an art studio and the Living Art Museum.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

WHAT’S ON IF YOU NEED MORE INFO, CONTACT INFO@WHATSON.IS

HOW TO ... TAKE THE BUS

Strætó is the Icelandic bus company, and their yellow buses are easy to spot around the city. In November 2021, Strætó introduced the KLAPP payment system in their buses. You have three ways to pay. With a top up KLAPP card, with the KLAPP app, and with KLAPP ten, a bus pass with ten tickets. You can buy KLAPP cards and KLAPP ten at selected gas stations, convenience stores, museums, and swimming pools. For more information, go to https://www.klappid.is/en/sales

GET TO THE AIRPORT

Iceland’s international airport is located in Keflavík, about 50km from Reykjavík. If you rent a car or take a cab, it will take about 45 minutes to get to Reykjavík. A cheaper but just as reliable option is taking a bus to and from the airport. They connect to flights and will drop you off or pick you up at bus stops close to your accommodation in Reykjavík.

GET MONEY

Iceland has its own currency, the Icelandic króna (ISK). It’s best to get króna at any bank (open Monday to Friday, 9-4), including the one at the Keflavík International Airport (open 24/7). You can either exchange money or go to an ATM to get cash. Credit card and debit card payments are widely accepted in Iceland.

PARK IN THE CITY CENTRE

There are different parking zones which charge different rates. Look for a parking sign (the familiar big P) indicating zones 1-4 and parking garages. Look for the nearest black terminal to pay, with cash or card, and type in your car’s number plate, no ticket necessary!

MAKE CALLS

Getting an Icelandic SIM card is easy, you can get them at the airport, phone companies, and, of course, the What’s On tourist information centre at Laugavegur 5.

GO SWIMMING

There are 18 swimming pools in the capital area and if you have the time, you should try them all. Swimming is great, but don’t miss relaxing in the hot tubs – this is where the community gathers and socialises. If you haven’t packed a bathing suit, you can rent one at the pool.

Visit What’s On at Laugavegur 5 or contact us at info@whatson.is.

Find more recommendations on www.whatson.is

WHAT’S ON

Trip - Booking Agency & Tourist Info | Laugavegur 54, Reykjavík | trip@whatson.is | +354 537 8100 Open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00, Sun 9:00-18:00 | Located directly opposite Bónus Supermarket, on the main street 97

Meet some of Iceland’s finest designers Epal Skeifan 6 / Epal Design Kringlan / Epal Icelandic Design Laugavegi 70

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