What's On in Reykjavík - October 2024 by MD Reykjavik

CONTENT LIST FROM THE EDITOR

Autumn is a time of transition in Iceland. Kids return to school and many people return to work, the roads in Reykjavík get busier in the morning and afternoon. The weather gets colder, windier and rainier with the occasional calm and sunny days in between. But the transition in terms of weather has often been stronger because there was hardly any summer weather this year although summer was on the calendar as usual.

Autumn is also the time of year when farmers round up their sheep to get them indoors for the winter. Last weekend, I went to collect the sheep of my uncle along with many others in North Iceland. This is an old tradition that has remained relatively unchanged through the decades, although drones have been used from time to time in recent years. For Reykjavík residents like me, this is a calming experience away from the hustle and bustle of the city, at least when the weather is good and the sheep cooperative as was the case this year.

The What’s On Information Centre, Laugavegur 5.

WHAT’S ON — VOLUME 42 — ISSUE 10

Published by: MD Reykjavík ehf. Laugavegur 5, 101 Reykjavik. Tel.: 551-3600

Publisher: Sigurþór Marteinn Kjartansson

Distribution: nora@whatson.is

Tel.: 830-3629

In Reykjavík, annual events like RIFF start in late September and run into early October and the northern lights have returned with the dark night skies. Cultural life in the city increases again after slowing down in summer, with music, art and theatre. Downtown, there are always plenty of concerts to choose from in Harpa concert hall while you may find more intimate experiences in smaller venues such as Bæjarbíó in Hafnarfjörður.

Welcome to Iceland.

Map of Reykjavík: Friðrik Bjarnason

Editor: Guðmundur F. Magnússon

Content writers: The What’s On Team

Ad sales: Reynir Elís Þorvaldsson, reynir@whatson.is

Printing: Printall AS

WHAT‘S ON IN REYKJAVÍK is published monthly, covering events and happenings in and around Reykjavík. Opinions expressed in WHAT‘S ON IN REYKJAVÍK are those of the individual authors. While every effort has been made to ensure the information presented is accurate, prices, times, dates and other information may be subject to change.

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THE WHAT’S ON CHECKLIST

October is a great month to be visiting Iceland. The nights are getting longer, which means that the northern lights are back in full force. The trees are changing colour, and autumn is in the air. But there is just enough warmth and daylight to squeeze in some of the last summer activities, like a day hike near Reykjavík or a scenic countryside drive, before we all turn our attention to the approaching winter. Here are What’s On’s tips for this month:

Here are What’s On’s tips for this month:

Take an autumn stroll through Heiðmörk, a nature area right next to the capital!

Catch one of the films playing at the Reykjavík International Film Festival!

Take in the country views on a day trip around the Golden Circle!

Check out the Reyjavík Museum of Photography, located right above the downtown library.

Warm up with a coffee in one of Reykjavík’s cosy cafés!

Relax and treat yourself in one of Iceland’s many geothermal spas.

Explore the unique geological features of a lava tunnel near Reykjavík

While you’re checking things off the list, snap some photos and tag #whatsonrvk on Instagram.

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So you’re in Iceland, taking in the sights and everything else this magnificent country has to offer. Why not share it with the world?

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ICELAND’S SECRET TO HEALTHY LIVING SKYR

Legend has it that the Vikings introduced Skyr to Iceland when they settled in the country some 1.100 years ago. Travel back in time to any farm, and Skyr would be on the table – essential nourishment for young and old. Generations past may not have been able to measure the nutritional content in the way we can now, but the life expectancy of the average Icelander was proof enough that something good was going on.

Icelanders have ever since loved the smooth texture of this incredibly healthy dairy product, and today it plays a big role in the modern diet. Skyr is high in protein and a virtually fat-free dairy delight. Thick and creamy in consistency, it is also rich in calcium and other nutrients.

Skyr can be found at almost every home and workplace. Enjoyed at breakfast, lunchtime, pretty much anytime, it has also become a healthy “fast-food” for active people on the go. Delicious in smoothies or energy-boosting drinks, it even features on the dessert menus of many top restaurants, which are bringing a contemporary twist to this established favourite.

KEA SKYR – PLAIN

Skyr was originally only available as plain and was made at every farm in Iceland. Nowadays, there is a huge variety of flavours available but many still prefer the plain one, especially served with sugar and/or cream.

ÍSEY SKYR PÚFF

Introducing Ísey skyr Púff, original Icelandic skyr with a difference. We’ve taken our naturally high-protein skyr and whipped up a brand new mousse-like pot of joy! Light and fluffy, it feels deliciously indulgent on the tongue with the same great taste of Ísey skyr. Also known as Ísey skyr Air.

ÍSEY SKYR – PROTEINDRINK

Fuel your day with Ísey skyr proteindrink – a perfect on the go product with 23 grams of protein per serving. This nutritious smoothie is available in four different flavours and ideal for breakfast or snack during the day.

ÍSEY SKYR WITH BLUBERRIES

Ísey skyr is a remarkable dairy product unique to Ice land. High in protein and naturally fat free, Ísey skyr is delicious, rich in flavour with a thick and creamy tex ture. Ísey is a beautiful Icelandic female name, meaning ice (ís) and island (ey), in honour of the women who passed on Iceland‘s secret to healthy living from generation to generation.

KEA SKYR WITH VANILLA

Kea skyr comes from the northern part of Iceland, and this is one of the most popular flavours available. The taste is full and creamy, with zero fat. Its mild and creamy flavour also makes it popular as a base for desserts.

#iseyskyr

& Treat your taste buds at two historical food halls: Hlemmur 101 and Grandi at the old harbour.

WHAT TO DO IF YOU ONLY HAVE ONE DAY TO SPEND IN ICELAND

Our first piece of advice if you have just one day to spend in Iceland is to change your flight and stay for at least a week. If that’s not an option, here’s what we suggest to get the most out of this unique destination in such a short time.

If you just want to see the highlights

The Golden Circle is the most popular day tour from Reykjavík – and it’s easy to see why. The classic route includes three stops that also happen to be three of the most captivating natural wonders in Iceland. Tour operators may add their own twists, but you’re sure to stop at Þingvellir, a national park straddling the rift between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates; Gullfoss, an awe-inspiring waterfall that lends its name to the Golden Circle (gull translates to gold); and the Geysir geothermal area, with an erupting hot spring guaranteed to impress. You can complete the Golden Circle in half a day (depending on the tour you book), leaving you time to squeeze more into your short stay.

If you want to visit the newest lava field

The recent eruptions on the Reykjanes peninsula have been a powerful reminder to respect nature. At the time of writing, the last eruption ended June 23, 2024. The latest eruptions have not been “tourist friendly” and it is not currently possible to visit the newest lava fields on foot. However, chartered helicopter tours are available from several operators for those wanting to get a bird’s eye view of the

latest lava fields in Iceland. Check out whatson.is for more information and to book your flight!

If you want to see a glacier

There’s no better way to get a feel for the latter half of Iceland’s “Land of Fire and Ice” moniker than to go on a glacier hike. Glacier hikes are relatively easy and accessible for most, especially because professional gear is provided. You get to walk on a glacier with guides who know everything there is to know about glaciers and Iceland in general. What’s cooler than that?

If you want a little luxury

What’s better than a spa day? Visiting a geothermal spa fed by Europe’s most powerful hot spring, Deildartunguhver. At Krauma Natural Geothermal Baths, the water from the hot spring is mixed with cool glacial water for a perfect temperature. It has five hot tubs and one cold bath, plus a relaxation room, two steam baths and an infrared sauna. Alternatively, if you don’t want to leave the capital area, book the seven-step “Ritual” at the Sky Lagoon for a luxurious afternoon of soaking, steaming, scrubbing and other soothing activities.

If you want an adrenaline rush

Are you looking for a thrill? Go on a buggy ride. A buggy is a fast, sturdy and stable ATV, perfect for

anyone who loves to get their blood pumping in the great outdoors – and who doesn’t mind getting a little dirty in the process. Driving a buggy through rough Icelandic terrain, over mud puddles, dirt roads or snow, makes for an exhilarating day.

If you want to hit the high seas

Marine life abounds in the water around Iceland, and you can see everything from harbour porpoises and white-beaked dolphins to minke and humpback whales on a whale watching tour. Tour boats depart Reykjavík’s old harbour throughout the day, cruising to the spots where sightings are most likely. Nothing beats the thrill of seeing a massive whale breach or watching one slap its enormous flukes on the water’s surface. If you have a few hours to spare before or after the cruise (or if you get seasick and a cruise is out of the question), check out the Whales of Iceland exhibition to learn more about these gentle giants.

Stop by the What’s On information centre, or send us an email, info@whatson.is , and ask the staff to help you plan an unforgettable vacation.

Taste the best of iceland

ICELANDIC GOURMET FEAST

Starts with a shot of the infarmous Icelandic spirit Brennivín

late night dining

Our kitchen is open until 23:00 on weekdays and 24:00 on weekends

Followed by 7 delicious tapas

• Smoked puffin with blueberry “brennivín” sauce

• Icelandic arctic char with candy beets salad, asparagus and elderflower-hollandaise

• Lobster tails baked in garlic

• Pan-fried blue ling with lobster sauce

• Grilled Icelandic lamb tenderloin with beer-butterscotch sauce

• Minke Whale with sweet potato mash and malt sauce

And for dessert:

• White chocolate "Skyr" mousse with passion coulis

12.900 kr.

How to Travel Safely in Iceland

With a subarctic climate and a tiny population, Iceland is a little different from other popular travel destinations. Desolate landscapes, extreme weather, mountain roads, geothermal areas, and the ocean can all catch the unprepared off-guard. Keep the following six safety guidelines in mind when planning your trip to Iceland.

1. Familiarise yourself with Iceland’s emergency numbers

The emergency number in Iceland is 112. You can dial it free of charge to reach emergency services like ambulances, rescue teams, and the police, and there is also a 112 app that can send your information to emergency services at the press of a button.

2. Follow updates on Safetravel.is

Icelandic weather is infamously fickle, and extreme weather is not uncommon. In wintertime, high wind speeds and snow can frequently limit visibility. Safetravel.is offers up-to-date road condition maps, weather alerts, and plenty of helpful tips and information on the best and safest way to travel around the country. There’s an app for that, too. It’s well worth downloading and checking regularly throughout your travels.

3. Be extra careful when visiting geothermal areas

The water in geothermal areas can reach temperatures upward of 100°C. Falling in or slipping can result in severe burns. Safe paths are clearly marked, so stick to them, and never walk on ground that is steaming.

WHAT’S ON

4. Keep a safe distance from the ocean

Sneaker waves – disproportionally large waves that encroach farther onto shore than regular waves – are frequent occurrences at the Reynisfjara and Kirkjufjara beaches in South Iceland. Sneaker waves are more powerful than people expect, and accidents have proven fatal in the past. Keep a safe distance from the water and observe nearby signs.

5. Stay on the path

Whether visiting a waterfall, a geothermal area, or hiking in the mountains, staying on the marked footpath is imperative. Respect when paths are closed and heed all signs. It’s closed for a reason, either to protect you or fragile nature.

6. Let someone know where you’re going

If you’re planning on hiking or hitchhiking, let someone know where you’re going and when you’ll be back. You can also upload your travel plan to www.safetravel.is.

ONE OF THE FOOD WONDERS OF THE WORLD

ICELANDIC LAMB IS THE FIRST ICELANDIC FOOD PRODUCT TO BE PDO-MARKED Icelandic lamb has acquired the PDO label, the highest level of geographical indication in Europe, placing it in the company of the world's best-known and most sought-after quality products.

Visit the Lava Centre

Are you curious about the latest eruptions on the Reykjanes Peninsula?

Learn more about the activity near Grindavík and the Blue Lagoon at Lava Centre

7 FACTS YOU (PROBABLY)

DON’T KNOW

ABOUT VOLCANOES

1. Liberty, Equality, Fraternity... Volcanicity?

The 1783-4 eruption of Laki was the biggest eruption in recorded history. An estimated 42 billion tonnes of poisonous gases and dust darkened the skies. Haze from the eruption floated east as far away as India, disrupting the monsoon season and leading to drought and crop failures. The famine that hit Egypt in 1784, was a result of the eruption, and killed roughly one-sixth of its population. Back in Iceland, an estimated 20–25% of the population died from famine, and over half the livestock was poisoned or killed by giant hailstones. Food shortages contributed to social unrest across Europe and contributed to the French Revolution of 1789 that gave birth to western democracy.

2. And in second Place…

Iceland was also the site of the second biggest emission in recorded history: the 2014 eruption of Bárðarbunga. In just 6 months, Bárðarbunga produced enough lava to cover the island of Manhattan - 85km2

3. Enter the Volcano

In Jules Verne’s Journey to the Centre of the Earth, the heroes climb down a crater on the Snæfellsnes peninsula to find vast oceans filled with extinct prehistoric creatures. While an encounter with a herd of mastodons is unlikely, a trip to Þríhnúkagígur (Thrihnukagigur) still feels pretty Jules Verne. Þríhnúkagígur is the only volcano in the world

where you can descend into the magma chamber. Discovered in 1974 and opened to the public in 2012.

4. New Earth

Surtsey, Iceland’s most southern point was formed by a volcanic eruption at the bottom of the ocean and emerged from the water on November 14, 1963. It was immediately granted protection by law, and to this day, only scientists are allowed to go there, and even they have to get special permission. This means that we have been able to monitor how life settles on a brand-new land from the beginning, which has, of course, been invaluable to scientists.

5. SuperFresh Lava

Iceland has a third of the world’s fresh lava. ‘Fresh’ is a relative term that may need defining. When discussing Arctic Char, it’s best measured in hours. In geological time fresh lava means lava that’s less than five hundred years old. Iceland is full of these ‘Here’s one I prepared earlier’ landscapes offering snapshots of geological time and processes.

6. Icelandic volcanoes are on the move! Due to changes in on the tectonic level of the earth, Iceland’s volcanoes are actually moving east. Veeeeeeeery slowly. If you visited Iceland 20 million years ago, the volcanoes would all have been situated in the West Fjords. Fifty million years ago, during the Eocene epoch, you would find our volcanoes living happily in Greenland, and 70

million years ago, our volcanoes would have been terrorising dinosaurs somewhere in Canada.

7. Iceland has a volcanic eruption every 4-5 years

The island has somewhere between 150-200 volcanoes, split into different volcanic systems. About 30 different systems are still considered “active” in Iceland, and 13 of them have erupted since the Viking Settlement in 874. The most recent eruptions on the Reykjanes peninsula began at Fagradalsfjall in 2021. Geologists believe this current phase could last decades, if not centuries - a powerful reminder of nature’s might!

The Northern Lights are back

Towards the end of August, it gradually starts to get dark at night again. Luckily, that means that the northern lights are back. They never really left, they were just drowned out by the midnight sun. Seeing the northern lights is a sublime experience, and we recommend seeking them out while you are in Iceland. The phenomenon is caused when solar flares interact with the earth’s magnetic field about 80 miles up. It’s sometimes called the ‘solar wind,’ which moves like a wisp of smoke caught in

a slow draft. Their movement might seem familiar, but the scale is so vast and unlike anything else that it’s… well, it’s hard to put into words. Better to see for yourself.

The northern lights aren’t a reliable attraction, and seeing them can be a matter of being in the right spot at the right time. It’s not all down to luck, however, as there are a few things you can do to maximise your chances of seeing the ethereal lights.

Different ways to see the northern lights:

Going by coach:

Cheap and effective. A northern lights tour by bus or minibus is a good way to see the lights if you’re not too concerned about being surrounded by a lot of people and simply travelling by bus. Perhaps not the best time if you don’t see anything – but it’s the cheapest option to see the lights, and it gets the job done.

Going by boat:

A great experience regardless of lights. Going by boat is a very good choice for those who want to ensure they get something out of their tour even if no lights are found. Being out at sea and viewing the city lights from the water is in itself a great experience.

Top 8 tips for the northern lights

1 GET OUT OF TOWN

The city lights block the northern lights!

2 MAKE SURE IT’S DARK

Daylight and northern lights don’t go hand in hand!

3 MAKE SURE THE SKY IS CLEAR

The northern lights appear way above the clouds!

4 GIVE IT TIME AND BE PATIENT!

The northern lights don’t come out by order – be patient and you might get lucky!

5 SIGHTINGS CAN NEVER BE GUARANTEED

So we’d recommend a tour that includes some great activity as well as northern lights hunt – so you won’t feel disappointed!

6 WEAR SOMETHING WARM

It can get seriously cold, especially when the sky is clear and you’re waiting for a long time.

7 KNOW YOUR CAMERA!

Taking photos with a flash won’t work. Ever. A tripod and long exposure are your friends!

8 ENJOY IT!

Lie down on the ground. Look up. Enjoy!

Going by super-jeep:

Exclusive and thrilling. Going on a hunt for the lights with a specially modified superjeep is a thrilling experience that’s fun and exciting. Sights can of course never be guaranteed, but the off-road action of a superjeep makes for a great adventure, the lights are just an added bonus.

Book your northern lights tour now online or at the What’s On tourist information centre, at Laugavegur 5.

NORTHERN LIGHTS PHOTOGRAPHY DO s AND DON'Ts

DO have a relatively good camera with you that allows for easy and quick change of settings.

DON’T rule out taking a photo on your phone’s camera.

DO have your ISO set to at least 800 and your aperture as low as it goes.

DON’T forget your tripod. However little you think you move while waiting for your camera to take your picture, believe me, you always move and it’s enough to make your photos blurry.

DO keep your shutter speed anywhere between 5 to 30 seconds, although the optimal would be between 5 and 20 seconds (30 seconds is only for very faint lights, basically).

DON’T forget to plan ahead when booking your northern lights tour- finding a stable surface on a boat is difficult, and large group tours might make your photography session more difficult.

DO consider using continuous shooting, so that while shooting the lights, you don’t have to keep staring at them through your camera.

DON’T focus solely on your photographs and forget to be in the moment. You don’t see the northern lights every day!

If you need any more information, check out www.whatson.is or stop by the What’s On information office at Laugavegur 5.

HOW TO READ THE NORTHERN LIGHTS FORECAST

The northern lights forecast can be found on en.vedur.is/weather/forecasts/aurora/, but it is a little hard to decipher if you’ve never seen it before. Our handy-dandy guide should make things a little bit easier.

Going on a tour?

There are many tours taking you far from the bright city lights for a better chance of seeing the aurora. These tours will be cancelled if there is no chance of seeing the lights. All major operators can be trusted to do this, first of all, because there is a high standard of professionalism in Iceland, but more importantly, because they lose money if they take you out needlessly – most of them promise to take you out again for free if you don’t see anything.

The Colours

White means no clouds while dark green means very cloudy. The different shades of green then mean more, or less, cloudy.

The numbers

The numbers are a combination of how likely it is for the lights to be active and how active they will be. Don’t be discouraged if the number is low, it’s actually very rare for the number to be higher than five. Also, take the scale with a grain of salt; a low number doesn’t mean that they won’t come out or won’t be impressive, and a high number isn’t a guarantee that they will be glorious all through the night.

WELCOME TO PARADISE

Bíó Paradís is Iceland’s first and only art-house cinema, located in the heart of downtown Reykjavík. We screen the latest independent movies from around the world, as well as classic cult films and local Icelandic filmsmany with English subtitles.

We provide a warm, cozy environment for film lovers of all kinds, both in our three-screen cinema and in our well-stocked bar & café. Join our legendary weekly Party screenings - sometimes we Sing-Along. You can also just drop in for drinks and snacks, our ice-cold beer is on Happy Hour every day between 5-7 pm. A true haven for those seeking thoughtprovoking films and vibrant social gatherings!

PARTY SCREENINGS IN OCTOBER

MAMMA MIA! - SINGALONG (2008)

Saturday October 5 @9pm

Fabulous movie filled with ABBA songs you know and love, it’s the feel-good experience that will have you singing and dancing over and over again.

NATURAL BORN KILLERS (1994)

Friday October 18 @9pm

Oliver Stone directs Woody Harrelson and Juliette Lewis as lovers who become serial murderers irresponsibly glorified by the mass media.

DJANGO UNCHAINED (2012)

Friday October 25 @9pm

With the help of a German bounty hunter, a freed slave sets out to rescue his wife from a brutal Mississippi plantation owner. Masterpiece by Quentin Tarantino.

BEETLEJUICE (1988)

Saturday October 26 @9pm

The spirits of a deceased couple are harassed by an unbearable family that has moved into their home, and hire a malicious spirit to drive them out.

Experience

This

Get

7 Things to Know About the Icelandic Horse

First things first: It’s not a pony!

Yes, Icelandic horses stand, on average, 135-145 cm to their withers. And, yes, that’s well within the parameters of a “pony” (read, anything shorter than 147 cm). But they’re horses, plain and simple, because, well, Icelanders say so.

Squat, muscular, and built to withstand the elements, the Icelandic horse is the embodiment of how Iceland likes to view itself: small but mighty.

They’re very friendly

The Icelandic horse has earned a reputation at home and abroad for being easy-going and friendly. Like well-trained dogs. Which is funny considering how impolite some Icelanders can be – the language doesn’t even have a word for “please.”

Their temperaments can be attiuted to nature, since their genetics are so protected (more on that later), or nurture, since Icelanders tend to treat their beloved horses like members of the family. So their

relaxed attitudes may just be a result of the horses’ relaxed lifestyles.

They have a fancy walk

The Icelandic horse is also unique for being the only breed in the world that can perform five gaits (ways of walking). Other breeds can only perform three or four.

The three common horse gaits are walk, trot, and canter, but the Icelandic horse can also pace and tölt. Tölt is a four-beat lateral gait that’s entirely unique to the Icelandic horse. It’s a sped up version of walking, but much more impressive as the horses lift their front legs up high, with only one hoof touching the ground at any time.

Tölt is a very useful gait for Iceland’s often uneven ground, providing a steady ride. It was presumably the gentlest on the riders’ backside back when horses were the main mode of transportation.

WHAT’S ON

That said, not all Icelandic horses can tölt, and those that can are usually trained to do it properly. So when you take a riding tour, be sure to ask for a horse that can tölt so you get to experience a truly unique trait of the Icelandic horse.

They’re guaranteed purebred

Following an unsatisfactory attempt to crossbreed Icelandic and oriental breeds, Iceland’s Viking parliament moved to prevent degradation of their horses’ genes by forbidding horse imports to Iceland as far back as the year 982.This is the kind of thing you can do when you live on an island.

That means Iceland’s horses have been purebred for over 1000 years. As a result, there are also remarkably few livestock diseases in the country –and authorities keep it that way by even prohibiting riders bringing their own saddles or riding boots with them to Iceland.

The Icelandic horse’s forefathers first arrived with Viking settlers from the British Isles, between 860 and 935 AD. While they’re known ancestors of Shetland, Highland and Connemara ponies, they also have some genetic similarities to the Mongolian horse, which arrived in Scandinavia through Russia.

They can never come home again

They’re part of Iceland’s heritage

Icelandic horses feature heavily throughout the country’s history books. In the Book of Settlement of Iceland, chieftain Sela-Þórir established his settlement at the place where his mare Skálm decided to rest. Meanwhile in Hrafnkel’s Saga, Njál’s Saga, Grettir’s Saga, and others, horses play important roles in fights, as status symbols, and as plot devices. For example, when the epic hero Gunnar á Hlíðarenda falls to the ground when his horse trips he looks at his beautiful country and decides to stay rather than be outlawed, which ultimately leads to his death.

No, Icelandic horses don’t spend their days reading Thomas Wolfe, rather those same restrictions that prevent the import of other breeds from abroad also apply to any Icelandic horse that leaves the island. They can’t return to Iceland.

As a result, Icelanders participating in international riding competitions never take their best horse along, since they will likely sell it before heading home. The crème de la crème of Icelandic horses are kept in Iceland to compete domestically or breed.

In Norse mythology, the most famous equine is, of course, Óðinn’s eight-legged steed Sleipnir. Icelandic horses have the standard four legs, but it can look like eight when they’re zipping along at flying pace.

You can ride one any time

Possibly the best thing about the Icelandic horse from a visitor’s perspective is that you can ride one just about any time. There are riding centres all over the country offering riding tours so visitors can experience Iceland’s uniquely beautiful nature from the back of Iceland’s uniquely wonderful horses.

Thanks to their aforementioned temperament and size, the Icelandic horse is ideal for inexperienced riders taking a shorter tour, and their smooth gaits make them comfortable for more experienced riders looking to spend a whole day in the saddle.

THE ONLY PENIS MUSEUM IN THE WORLD

and the most visited museum in Iceland

The Icelandic Phallological Museum, the worldʹs only penis museum, is located in the heart of Reykjavik, right by the old harbor.

The family friendly museum sports the largest penis collection on Earth, which even includes a cast of Jimi Hendrix from the late Cynthia ‘Plaster Caster’ Albritton. Visitors get a unique tongue-in-cheek opportunity to engage in comparative anatomy with the organs of hundreds of different species.

Enjoy food and drinks at the Phallic Café bistro

The museum also has a penis themed bistro where we serve our famous penis waffles, handcrafted local beers, penis themed cocktails and amazing coffee and tea from small batch local companies.

HALLOWEEN IN ICELAND

Halloween has not been traditionally celebrated in Iceland, but that is changing. Near the end of October, you can find Halloween decorations on the houses around Reykjavík, and the local grocery stores stock up on pumpkins whose only purpose is to be carved and left on the porch to rot.

Children dress up for Halloween-themed parties at their schools, and they can now be found wandering their neighbourhoods asking for candy on October 31st. The city of Reykjavík even got involved, creating a programme for children.

Adults and young people use the American holiday as an excuse to dress up and party. In fact, Icelanders put a fun twist on the name of the holiday itself, calling it Hallóvín, which literally translates as ‚Hello, wine.’ Local bars may host parties and costume contests, while the cinemas dust off old horror classics to get everyone in a spooky mood.

Öskudagur - Ash Wednesday

One of the reasons Halloween took so long to catch on in Iceland is because there was already a holiday

in which children dressed up and ate sweets, celebrated in spring, not in October

Many catholic countries have a tradition of a carnival before the beginning of lent. While Iceland hasn’t been Catholic since 1550 AD, Icelanders aren’t known for saying no to a good party and have their own, somewhat distorted version of a carnival. Monday before lent is Bolludagur, or Bun Day, celebrated with copious amounts of cream-filled pastries. Shrove Tuesday is celebrated with a meal of salt lamb and split pea soup and Ash Wednesday, although traditionally a solemn occasion, is when children dress up in costumes and go door to door asking for treats in exchange for a song. The event is a relatively modest affair centred on children’s entertainment, lacking the decorative opulence and tinge of horror we’ve come to enjoy from the American feast.

Double the Candy

Like Halloween in the U.S., Öskudagur for children has mostly lost any religious affiliation. The children still dress up, but they now venture into the neighbourhoods and to local shops asking for sweets. But unlike Halloween, they had to earn their treats, typically by singing a song.

As the American tradition continues to grow in popularity, Icelandic children now have the possibility to dress up in costume and gather as much candy as they can get their hands on twice a year! While parents and dentists may not be thrilled, most kids are happy with the results.

IMAGINE PEACE

“Imagine all the people,” John Lennon sang, “living life in peace.”

In 2007, Lennon‘s widow Yoko Ono immortalized his words by unveiling the Imagine Peace Tower, a work of art that consists of a blazing tower of light. Essentially, it’s a white stone monument containing 15 searchlights, with prisms that act as mirrors and that reflect the light vertically into the sky. On a clear night, the light extends upward at least 4000 metres.

The words “Imagine Peace” are inscribed on the monument in 24 languages. Buried underneath the tower are over one million written wishes that Ono gathered over the years in another project (Wish Trees). The tower serves as a memorial not only to John Lennon but also to his and Ono‘s vision of world peace.

Ono chose Viðey island in Reykjavík as the location for this outdoor artwork. Every year on Lennon‘s birthday, October 9, a ceremony is held on the small island in which they turn on the tower‘s light. It shines throughout much of the winter, reflecting off the low clouds above Reykjavík until it is turned off on December 8 – the day Lennon was assassinated in New York City by Mark David Chapman outside the former’s residence at the Dakota apartment building in Manhattan.

Construction of the Imagine Peace Tower began on October 9th, 2006 and it was officially unveiled on the same date in 2007. The ceremony was broadcast internationally to numerous television networks. In attendance with Ono was son Sean Lennon, bandmate Ringo Starr, Olivia Harrison, widow of George Harrison, and Olivia’s son Dhani Harrison. Paul McCartney was invited but could not attend due to a court case. Yoko Ono said on the day of the inauguration that the tower was the best thing that she and John had ever done.

The tower is also lit in the week of the Winter Solstice December 21–31, February 18 (Yoko Ono‘s birthday), and the week of the Spring Equinox March 20–27.

The Imagine Peace Tower will be lit once again

by Elding

Photo

3 WALKS

IN AND AROUND REYKJAVÍK

One of the first things you’ll discover upon visiting Reykjavík is that it’s very walkable. The majority of the city’s restaurants and shops are located along two streets – Skólavörðustígur and Laugavegur. If you want to explore the city beyond the confines of these well-trod roads, we have a few suggestions. Stretch your legs

ONCE AROUND THE POND

Smack-dab in the middle of town, you’ll find Tjörnin, Reykjavík’s central pond. We recommend starting this walk at the north end of the pond, where the ducks congregate and take a clockwise route.

You can start with greeting the ducks. If you have a snack for them (heed the signs about when it is and isn’t allowed to feed the ducks), a few may even swim alongside you on the first stretch of your walk. Take the lower sidewalk and cross over Skothúsvegur to leave the roadside and enter Hljómskalagarður park.

While looping around the southern end of the pond, you’ll see the octagonal Hljómskálinn pavilion, the first structure in Reykjavík built for music events a statue of beloved poet Jónas Hallgrímsson, and a sculpture garden showcasing the works of some of Iceland’s most renowned female sculptors.

Once you’ve crossed back over Skothúsvegur on your way back to City Hall, you’re at the spot with the best views over Tjörnin. Along this stretch of

WHAT’S ON

the walk, you’ll find the statue Úr Álögum, one of Einar Jónsson’s phenomenal statues decorating the city. This one depicts the tale of Saint George and the Dragon. There’s also a park bench at this point in the walk with a bronze likeness of poet Tómas Guðmundsson and a QR code you can use to listen to a reading of his poem “Hotel Earth”.

Finish your walk with a visit to Reykjavík City Hall, where a massive topographic map of Iceland is often on display. Finally, exit City Hall via its long footbridge over the end of the pond, snap a picture with the Monument to the Unknown Bureaucrat and head off to your next adventure.

Distance: 1.5 km

LET’S TALK ABOUT ART, BABY

The coastal path running east from the Harpa Concert Hall is named the Sculpture and Shore Walk. While it is dotted with some lovely art, it’s also an excellent path to walk, jog or cycle to get that fresh sea air in your lungs and sweeping views of Esja forever imprinted on your soul – it’s a stunning mountain.

But let’s talk about the art. The walk starts at the Harpa, as mentioned above, so it should be pointed out that it is a work of art in its own right. Its iconic glass facade is the creation of Icelandic-Danish artist Ólafur Elíasson. Explore the interior and be sure to look up for a complete immersion in the majesty of the building.

On with the walk. The first sculpture you’ll encounter is the beloved Sólfar, or the Sun Voyager. While it’s often mistaken for a Viking ship, artist Jón Gunnar Árnason created it as a sun ship, meant to convey a dream of hope, progress and freedom. It was unveiled on August 18, 1990, to commemorate Reykjavík’s 200th birthday.

Walking along, you’ll encounter Pétur Bjarnason’s sculpture Partnership, which has a twin in Miami, U.S. The sculptures were made to commemorate 50 years of diplomatic relations between Iceland and the United States. Further along is Jóhann Eyfells’ Íslandsvarðan sculpture, which was completed in 2006 by pouring liquid metal into moulds the artist dug in the earth.

A personal favourite sculpture of this writer is Shore Piece by Sigurður Guðmundsson. It’s the largest piece displayed along this route, so you shouldn’t miss it.

Continue to the bright yellow Höfði lighthouse, and cross over Sæbraut to see Höfði House, where former Russian and U.S. presidents Mikhail Gorbachev and Ronald Reagan met in 1986 to discuss the end of the Cold War.

From here, either retrace your steps or cut up Katrínartún to Laugavegur and hang a right to meander back to the city centre.

Distance: 1.5 km from Harpa to Höfði House

DITCH THE PAVEMENT

If your idea of a walk means venturing off paved paths, head to Öskjuhlíð. Perlan tops the wooded hill on the outskirts of the city centre, and it is a lovely forest to wander through. It’s crisscrossed with rough paths, mountain bike ramps and massive rocks that are undoubtedly the remains of poor trolls that got caught out in the sun.

Öskjuhlíð was used as a lookout by British and American soldiers during the Second World War, so you may come across some abandoned bunkers during your walk. Signs have been erected explaining the history of the bunkers.

Spend an hour wandering among the birch and pine trees, or continue down to Nauthólsvík geothermal area and follow the path due west to follow the seaside around the Reykjavík airport, heading back into the city centre when the path joins up with Suðurgata.

Distance: Varies

FOLLOW THE LEADER

The DIY approach is all fine and good, but sometimes you want someone to guide you and regale you with fascinating trivia while you walk. If that’s more your speed, check out Reykjavík walking tours on WhatsOn.is. Happy walking!

TASTY LOCAL CUISINE

By The Old Harbour

RIFF

REYKJAVÍK INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL

SEPTEMBER 26 TO OCTOBER 6

RIFF, the Reykjavík International Film Festival, offers a wide selection of new and independent cinema every year. Over the years, illustrious guests have included names like Jim Jarmusch, Mads Mikkelsen, Werner Herzog, and many others. RIFF is also especially exciting because its annual award, the Golden Puffin, is given to new and young filmmakers, so moviegoers know that they’re getting a glimpse into the newest frontiers of cinema.

Every RIFF has a certain emphasis, highlighting a certain topic that the various film offerings approach in their own way. Past RIFFs have featured the ocean, Greenland, climate change, and many other fascinating topics, and we can’t wait to see what this year’s festival will offer!

Special screenings

RIFF has also become known over the years for innovative and memorable screenings. For example, there will be a car park cinema by Reiðhöllin in Víðidalur valley in Breiðholt, a suburb of Reykjavík. RIFF’s Cinematic Culinary Experience revolves around the fusion of cinema and gastronomy, with a special screening of “Like Water for Chocolate”, paired with a menu by Sónó Matseljur in the Nordic House on September 28 and 29. To mark the 40th anniversary of cult viking film “When the Raven Flies” with a live performance by Icelandic post-metal band Sólstafir.

Opening and Closing Films

Lovable by Lilja Ingólfsdóttir and the short film 1000 words by Erlend Sveinsson are the opening films this year. The room next door by Pedro Almodovar will close the festival.

Horror Duo

One of the most notorious horror films of all time, “Texas Chainsaw Massacre” (1974) is paired with the documentary “Chain Reactions” (2024) by award winning director Alexandre O. Philippe. Chain Reactions explores the lasting impact of Texas Chainsaw Massacre on five great artists, including Stephen King, and how it changed the genre forever.

Going green

Many of RIFF’s themes in recent years have focused on the environment. So it only makes sense that RIFF is also doing its part by going green. Introduced last year, RIFF is moving onto an app. Instead of paper schedules and tickets, you can now access everything from informational brochures, show times, trailers, and more from the RIFF app. Simply search for RIFF in the Apple or Google Play stores!

For more information and the full schedule, go to riff.is.

a Makesplash

Children (0–15* years) Free Young people (16-17 years)* 210 kr.

Adults (18 years and older) 1330 kr.

Saunas, steambaths The place to meet locals

Thermal pools and baths in Reykjavik are a source of health, relaxation and pureness. All of the city´s swimming pools have several hot tubs with temperatures ranging from 37˚ to 42˚C (98˚–111˚F).

The pools are kept at an average temperature of 29˚ C (84˚ F)

ACCESS TO 18 GYMS AND 8 SWIMMING POOLS

World Class o ers bright, spacious, and fully equipped gyms across Iceland. Enjoy a wide variety of classes and access to 8 thermal pools.

6 THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT ICELANDIC WOOL

It’s very old

While Iceland’s horses get all the attention for being unique to the island, modern day Icelandic sheep are also direct descendants of the livestock that arrived with settlers in the 9th century. As such, they boast some characteristics that have long since disappeared from their relatives in Europe. Like their ancient forefathers, the Icelandic sheep are double coated, with an outer layer of long, coarse hair called ‘tog’ that repels water, and a short, soft and fluffy undercoat called ‘þel’, which is a perfect insulator. This is a big part of what makes Icelandic wool –and the garments made with it – so special.

… but it’s not old fashioned

There have been innovations in Icelandic wool. For instance, the two coat layers used to be separated by hand (a very labour-intensive process) and used for different purposes. In the 1920s, however, quicker new methods of processing the wool were created and Iceland’s famed ‘lopi’ – consisting of the two coats spun together to produce strands that are simultaneously light, warm, tough and waterproof – was born.

It’s colourful

Icelandic sheep have always been bred in a variety of colours, and some farmers even pride themselves on preserving specific colours. The result is Icelandic wool being produced in as many colours as there are sheep, with the most common

lopi can also be found dyed in every colour of the rainbow.

It’s great for knitting

That double coat mentioned above gives lopi its dual-fibre structure, making it perfect for knitting garments that are warm, waterproof and light. Whether you intend to knit a scarf or try your hand at the intricate patterns of a famous Icelandic lopapeysa, lopi is ideal. Not only is it beautiful, it’s also easy to knit with (the loose-spun wool can be twisted back together if broken) and it felts easily. As any Icelandic child will tell you, lopi is scratchy right against the skin, so it’s best used for outer layers of clothing – unless you get your hands on some lambswool, that is.

It’s magical stuff

By “magical” we mean it’s self-cleaning, which is just about as close to magic as it gets for any parent trapped in an endless laundry cycle. Lopi garments need to be hand-washed, but it almost never needs to be washed. Thanks to the structure of the hair fibres, lopi doesn’t hold bacteria like cotton or synthetic materials do. So the only time you might need to wash your woollens is when they get stained (which is also rare, since they’re fairly waterproof). So just air them out and call it a day. Another of lopi’s magic tricks – one we absolutely

light up if you put it right in a flame, but it will selfextinguish once you take it out. Amazing!

It’s versatile

Icelandic wool looks great just about any way you knit it. And if you don’t knit yourself, just check out the range of products Icelanders have made with their wool as proof of its versatility – and its beauty. You can find everything from simple hats and mittens to the colourful scarves and blankets by Vík Prjónsdóttir. Of course, the most popular wool garment in Iceland is the Lopapeysa, the classic sweater with intricate and unique patterns around the yoke. An infinite range of classic lopapeysur can be found at the Icelandic Handknitting Association, while Farmer’s Market boasts a fashion-forward

THE SITUATION ON THE REYKJANES PENINSULA

At the time of writing, the most recent eruption on the Reykjanes peninsula began on August 22 and ended September 5. While the string of eruptions that began in Iceland in 2021 first proved to be a largely harmless tourist attraction, the effect on the town of Grindavík has been a reminder to take these forces of nature seriously.

Travellers to Iceland should note that the area is not to be explored independently. Even lava that appears dry and cool can still be molten just below the surface. It is possible to visit the area via privately chartered helicopter tours, which we recommend, as you will not have to make the dangerous journey across still-hot lava fields.

Many visitors are also curious about the impact on the Blue Lagoon, a geothermal lagoon on the Reykjanes peninsula, and one of Iceland’s mostvisited tourist destinations. Since the beginning of the volcanic unrest on the Reykjanes peninsula, the Blue Lagoon has had to evacuate several times. At the time of writing, the Blue Lagoon is open, but this can of course change at a moment’s notice. We recommend staying up to date and checking your

reservation online before you go. Check for the latest updates here: bluelagoon.com/seismic-activity

Geologists predict the next eruption could occur with very little notice and it is not possible to visit the area. The rest of Iceland is not affected by these events and is safe to travel. The airport in Keflavík operates normally and flights are unlikely to be affected, even in case of another eruption.

Please keep yourself informed during your travels in Iceland and exercise common sense.

Good resources in English are:

• Daily news: Icelandreview.com

• Official travel warnings: safetravel.is,

• Icelandic Road Administration: road.is,

• The Icelandic Met Office: vedur.is

• Website of the Department of Civil Protection (https://www.almannavarnir.is/english/).

safetravel.is

road.is

almannavarnir.is

vedur.is

Kolagata

REYKJAVÍK CITY MAP

REYKJAVÍK sights to see

Reykjavík sightseeing has something for everyone! The city is filled with things to do, places to go, and stuff to see, but some things are just a little bit more important than others.

Check out the map in the centre of the magazine to find the exact location of these Reykjavík sights.

HALLGRÍMSKIRKJA

Hallgrímskirkja church is one of Reykjavík’s most iconic buildings and is visible from almost anywhere in the city. It’s the largest church and the 6th tallest architectural structure in Iceland. The church tower offers a fantastic view of the city. It’s named after the Icelandic poet and clergyman Hallgrímur Petursson, author of the Passion Hymns. The architect, Guðjón Samúelsson, designed it to resemble the basalt lava column flows of Iceland’s landscape. Construction started in 1945 and was finished in 1984.

PERLAN Standing at 25m, Perlan is one of Reykjavík’s most striking buildings. Built on top of the city’s hot water tanks, Perlan is known for its unique architecture. Inside Perlan, you can visit Wonders of Iceland, an exhibition spread over multiple levels. A visit to a real ice cave, planetarium shows, exhibitions on Iceland’s history, glaciers, volcanoes, and water, and a spectacular 360° viewing platform are all included in a ticket. On the top floor, there is a restaurant and coffeehouse for guests in need of refreshment. Surrounding Perlan is the Öskjuhlíð area, one of the many green spaces in Reykjavík, perfect for a walk on a sunny day.

TJÖRNIN Tjörnin (The Pond) is the heart of the city centre and offers some of the most amazing views in Reykjavík. There is no better place in the city to enjoy a beautiful sunset, and you can watch or feed a huge variety of birdlife that calls the lake home while you’re at it. When the lake freezes over in winter, geothermal water is pumped in to defrost an area for the birds and feeding them is a popular family pastime all year round. Those who can handle the cold take to the lake on ice skates.

AUSTURVÖLLUR

When the sun is shining, Austurvöllur is the place to be. Surrounded by cafés and restaurants, this public square is a popular spot for locals to dine outside, soak up some sunshine or recline on the grass with picnics. In fact, whatever the season, Austurvöllur is the place to be. It’s used for celebrations on holidays, and in December, the city’s biggest Christmas tree is located there. Due to its proximity to The House of Parliament, Austurvöllur is also a popular gathering spot for political protesters. At the centre of it all stands a statue of Jón Sigurðsson, the renowned figure who is credited with leading Iceland to independence.

HLEMMUR

The Hlemmur bus terminal has been a city centre fixture for decades – although the reason for its popularity has changed. It was transformed into a food hall a couple years back, and it’s difficult to imagine Hlemmur square without it. The food hall attracts a fun crowd, and the place is booming! With Neapolitan pizza, LA-style tacos, gourmet burgers, gelatos, and specialities from the Michelin Bib Gourmand-awarded Skál, there’s something for everybody!

HARPA The whole 28,000m2 of Harpa stand at the edge of Reykjavík Harbour. It houses Iceland’s biggest concert hall, suitable for a broad range of concerts and cultural events, a conference centre with meeting facilities and in-house catering, as well as a couple of fine restaurants. Harpa also hosts promotions, plays, and public events. Harpa was designed by a Danish firm in cooperation with Ólafur Elíasson, an Icelandic artist, and opened to the public in 2011.

THE OLD HARBOUR Though it’s the oldest harbour in its original form, Reykjavík’s Old Harbour is no longer the busiest for freight. Instead, it’s an oft-visited area where you’ll find a community of shops, galleries, electric bike and scooter rentals, and tour operators. You will also find numerous whale watching companies willing to take you out to sea on unforgettable excursions. The area is filled with excellent restaurants (pizza, seafood, burgers, etc.) and cafés. The atmosphere at the old harbour is friendly, the air is fresh and salty, and there are plenty of interesting activities to check out.

THE SUN VOYAGER A beautiful sculpture of a Viking ship located by the ocean on a small peninsula by Sæbraut, close to downtown Reykjavík. The sculpture by Jón Gunnar Árnason symbolises the Viking past of the Icelanders and is an ode to the sun. It serves as a reminder of our history and heritage when the first Viking settlers came sailing to Iceland. The Sun Voyager looks its best when the sun is setting, at whatever time that may be. The unforgettable view of the sculpture with a backdrop of the ocean and Mt. Esja is every photographer’s dream.

HOUSE

PARLIAMENT

Founded in 950 AD, Iceland’s Parliament, Alþingi, is the oldest extant parliament in the world! For centuries, the Parliament gathered in the open air (on the aptly named Þingvellir, Parliament Fields), but in recent years, the members of Parliament have met in Reykjavík. The House of Parliament is a modest classical building of hewn Icelandic dolerite, and it gives Austurvöllur square a dignified look. The Parliament garden behind the building is small but lovely in the summertime.

LAUGARDALSLAUG

Every country has traditions when it comes to leisure. Icelanders’ favourite pastime is going swimming. Laugardalslaug is the city’s largest pool with extensive facilities, located in Laugardalur valley. Its facilities include a 50m outdoor pool, an outdoor children’s pool and a paddling pool, two waterslides, numerous hot tubs, a steam bath, gym, and a mini-golf course. There really is no better place to be on a sunny day or a cold one for that matter. Right outside, you will find a hot dog stand where you can buy traditional Icelandic hot dogs.

is to present both historical and contemporary photography in an artistic, social, and cultural context, as well as to nurture public and scholarly interest in photography. The collection’s themes range from family photographs to photos from portrait studios, industrial and advertising photography, press photography, landscape

THE REYKJAVÍK ART MUSEUM

The Reykjavík Art Museum has three locations: Hafnarhús, Kjarvalsstaðir, and Ásmundarsafn. Hafnarhús serves as the museum’s institute of contemporary art, where new developments in art are explored through rotating exhibitions. An exhibition of paintings by well-known pop artist Erró is a permanent feature. Kjarvalsstaðir is devoted to one of Iceland’s most influential painters, Jóhannes Sveinsson Kjarval, and Ásmundarsafn is the former home and workshop of sculptor Ásmundur Sveinsson.

In 2001, archaeological remains of a settlement-era hall were excavated, which was inhabited from 930-1000. North of the hall, two pieces of a turf wall were found, which were built before 871. These findings are the oldest relics of human habitation found in Reykjavík. An innovative, interactive exhibition gives an impression of what life was like in those times. Objects from the age of settlement found in central Reykjavík and on Viðey island are also on display.

art collection that mainly comprises 19th- and 20thcentury artworks. The Gallery possesses many of the keystones of Icelandic art history, as well as a growing collection of works from other countries. There is also a considerable emphasis placed on contextualising Icelandic art internationally. The Gallery hosts exhibitions from both contemporary and historical artists, and an exhibition showcasing Iceland’s art history is currently on display in the House of Collections on Hverfisgata.

The nation’s most precious treasures are kept and displayed at the National Museum of Iceland. The museum was established in 1863, and it gives an insight into Iceland’s cultural heritage from the time of the settlement up to modern times. There’s a permanent exhibition of Icelandic history and culture from the settlement era on, as well as temporary exhibitions highlighting specific eras or aspects of Iceland’s cultural heritage.

Laxnes Horse Farm is a family owned and operated business with our horses being part of the family and treated as such. We offer a variety of day tours, combo tours and daily private tours. Please visit our site www.laxnes.is for further information and frequently asked questions.

Our Tours

Laxnes Special

A trek on the hardy, sure-footed Icelandic horse is an experience to remember. Whether you are a beginner or expert, old or young, these friendly horses, with their alert and willing nature are indeed a pleasure to ride in their natural surroundings.

Laxnes Private Tour

The private tour is a variation of our Laxnes Special tour and will have daily departures by summer 2023. You´ll be able to tailor your tour time to up to two hours and enjoy the farm surroundings at your own pace.

Laxnes Combo Tours

Combine our Laxnes Special tour with a variety of different activities in one booking for a full day of adventure. Puffin or Whale watching or the Golden Circle combinations with our riding tours are just a click away on our site.

BEST WHALE WATCHING SPOTS AROUND ICELAND

Do you want to have a whale of a time? Then go on a whale safari while you’re in Iceland! The waters around Iceland are the natural habitat of these gentle giants, so this is the perfect place to spot them. Baleen whales are a migratory species, and most travel long distances to tropical waters in winter and back to polar regions in summer. The best season for whale watching in Iceland is, therefore, between April and October. Going on a whale watching tour and actively searching for whales is an exciting and unique experience!

Whale

watching in the Capital Area

You don’t have to travel far to go on a whale safari, as Reykjavík offers good options for whale watching. Different whale watching companies have regular departures from the Old Harbour area. White-beaked dolphins and harbour porpoises are seen year-round in Faxaflói bay, a large bay next to Reykjavík, stretching from Reykjanes to Snæfellsnes. In the summertime, there are regular sightings of humpback whales and minke whales. You can choose to go on a bigger boat with a refreshment bar, or on a small RIB. The bigger boats have snug inside areas that offer shelter from bad weather, but the small boats have the advantage that you can get very close to oceanic wildlife. At the ticket offices, you can ask for complimentary

motion sickness pills, but don’t worry, tours are cancelled if the waves are too high.

Whale watching outside the Capital Area

You can also see whales outside of the Capital Area. In wintertime, the fishing town Grundarfjörður is where it’s all at. The bay is filled with herring feeding on phytoplankton. Now, seeing breaching herring is probably not the reason why you travelled to Iceland. However, this herring aggregation attracts all kinds of cetaceans, like dolphins, porpoises, and most importantly, killer whales! Can you think of anything more spectacular than seeing a pack of killer whales swim by? There are also excellent whale watching opportunities in North Iceland. The town Húsavík is also known as the whale watching capital of Iceland, because of the many whales in its bay, Skjálfandi bay. Humpback whales, blue whales, minke whales, pilot whales, and sperm whales are often sighted. Because of the deep waters in the bay, there is also a higher chance of seeing rare species like the basking shark, the northern bottlenose whale, and the beluga!

Combo tours – whales and puffins

In summer, puffin colonies are found all around Iceland. The first small flocks arrive in April, and the last ones leave in September, but the best months to see puffins are between May and August. Most whale watching companies offer whale and puffin combination tours. For puffin spotting, it’s best to be on a small boat and to bring binoculars. Puffins are tiny, and the closer you can get to them, the better the experience will be! These puffin tours are possible from Reykjavík. Just off the coast of the city, puffins breed each year on three small islands. Next to puffins and whales, common sights during these tours include arctic terns and the great skua.

Whales of Iceland exhibition

Whales of Iceland is an exhibition in the Grandi area of Reykjavík. It showcases 23 man-made life-size models of whale species that occur in Icelandic waters, like a 25m long blue whale and a full-size sperm whale. It offers a great opportunity to see the actual sizes of these whales (they are even bigger than you think!) and to learn interesting facts about each whale at the same time by reading plaques and watching videos. Educational and fun!

COMMON SIGHTS

Minke whale: a small baleen whale measuring 7m to 8m in length, weighing between 5 to 10 tonnes. It’s black and grey, has a dorsal fin, and will live for 30 to 50 years. It’s not likely to breach, so look for its back and dorsal fin during a tour. Also called “stinky minkes” because they smell of rotten fish.

Humpback whale: a large baleen whale measuring 12m to 16m in length and weighing about 36 tonnes. It has long pectoral fins, a stubby dorsal fin, and a knobbly head. They are known for breaching, their high spouts of water, and for showing off their flukes as they go for deeper dives!

White-beaked dolphin: the most common dolphin in Icelandic waters. It is 2.5m to 3m in length and weighs up to 350kg. They are often spotted in big groups, sometimes hundreds together! They love playing, jumping out of the water, and splashing about.

Book your whale watching tour on WhatsOn.is

Harbour porpoise: the smallest cetacean around Iceland. They are only 1.5m to 2m in length and weigh 55kg to 70kg. They are usually quite shy but sometimes jump out of the water and play with the whale watching boats.

ICELANDIC MOVIES TO WATCH BEFORE COMING TO ICELAND

Once upon a time, there were no Icelandic films. We know, it’s shocking. Things have changed though, now there are lots of them, and good ones, too!

Read our recommendations of movies you should watch before coming to Iceland.

UNDIR TRÉNU (2017)

d. Hafsteinn Gunnar Sigurðsson

Icelandic films tend to be heavy on angst and Undir trénu (Under the Tree) is filled to the brim with it. It’s about neighbours fighting over a tree that is causing shade. It doesn’t sound too crazy, and even relatable to some, but things get pretty insane quickly and we, the audience, never really know what will happen next. The shining star of the film is Edda Björgvinsdóttir, a celebrated Icelandic actress mostly known for comedy who proves a deft hand at drama as well. She manages to portray a character that is simultaneously an insane caricature of a hostile old lady, and a true-to-life portrait of someone you know.

HRÚTAR (2015)

d. Grímur Hákonarson

Two brothers live on farms next door to each other. The only problem is that they’ve been estranged for years. Dark comedy Hrútar (Rams) is a triumph for everyone involved, especially famed comedian Sigurður Sigurjónsson who portrays one of the brothers, and it made people really fall in love with the idea of stubborn old kooks living in misery somewhere out in the countryside.

Undir trénu

Hrútar

101 REYKJAVÍK (2000)

d. Baltasar Kormákur

In many ways, Hlynur, the protagonist of 101 Reykjavík, is a loser. And by “many”, we mean “all.” He lives with his mom in a small, cramped, apartment in downtown Reykjavík and spends most of his time at the local bar. When his mom brings home a girlfriend, things get complicated, especially when the girlfriend and Hlynur have sex. Most of the film is about the daily struggles of a suicidal man that does nothing, but as the story progresses, so does Hlynur. Will he find his place in the world? You have to watch the movie to find out! Also, yes he does.

DJÖFLAEYJAN (1996)

d. Friðrik Þór Friðriksson

During World War II, the UK, and then the US, occupied Iceland and built over 7,000 steel huts –barracks. When they left, the barracks were used as housing for less-fortunate Icelanders, who lived in terrible conditions. Djöflaeyjan (Devil’s Island) takes place in the 1950s in one of these neighbourhoods. Baddi goes with his mother (who married a US soldier) to America. When he comes back to Iceland, you better believe that he has been turned into a greaser (like those guys in the film Grease). Hilarity and drama ensue.

ENGLAR ALHEIMSINS (2000)

d. Friðrik Þór Friðriksson

The main character Páll is a sensitive and artistic young man. His descent into madness starts when dumped by his girlfriend. We follow him on his unfortunate trajectory to doom, at home with his parents who cannot cope in the end, and on to the mental institution Kleppur. The film is based on a book by Einar Már Guðmundsson and became an instant hit back in 2000 by touching on a taboo subject, mental illness, with warmth and humour. It became a classic and is commonly considered the best Icelandic film ever made.

BENJAMIN DÚFA (1995)

d. Gísli Snær Erlingsson

Benjamín dúfa (Benjamin, the Dove) is about four boys who dream to be knights when they grow up. They get in trouble with bullies and one of them (Baldur) gets in serious trouble with the bullies before the climax of the story. It is a family drama, showing Reykjavík in an earlier time when it looked more like a village.

STELLA Í ORLOFI (1986)

d. Guðný Halldórsdóttir

A classic comedy that has lived on through generations with various quotes and been rerun a few times in recent years at art cinema Bíó Paradís. When her husband breaks his arm, Stella is forced to go in his place with his Swedish colleague on a fishing trip. A strange but understandable misunderstanding happens at the airport and she picks up the wrong man, who also assumes she is the one supposed to pick him up. Then they go to the summerhouse with this strange man and comedy ensues.

NÓI ALBÍNÓI (2003)

d. Dagur Kári

The bluest hues you will ever see on the big screen! Nói, the albino, is a socially inept smart-arse living in a remote fjord in Iceland (most fjords in Iceland are remote). He dreams of a better life elsewhere but escaping the fjords can be a difficult task. He falls for a girl from the city (there is one city in Iceland) and sees a chance of a better future with her, but he is socially inept so, you know. The film is funny and all around a great watch.

MÝRIN

(2006)

d. Baltasar Kormákur

You might not think that Iceland has too many murders, and you would be right. Instead, we have books about murder mysteries, and the most famous series is about detective Erlendur and his adventures solving crimes in modern Reykjavík. The first, and only, film adaptation of an Erlendur story is Mýrin (Jar City) and by golly, it’s good. Ingvar E. Sigurðsson was born to portray the permanently-resentful Erlendur. In fact, most of the casting is pitch-perfect, and the result is a fantastic Nordic crime tale.

Nói albinói

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GO SWIMMING!

Whether you visit a thermal pool in Reykjavík, a luxurious spa, or a natural pool in the countryside, swimming in Iceland is a unique experience. Nothing beats relaxing in warm water while breathing in fresh cold air.

Vesturbæjarlaug

BEST KID-FRIENDLY POOL

Swimming pools are one of the most kid-friendly activities you can find in Iceland, so the short answer is – all of them! To be more specific, the centrally located Sundhöll has a great outdoor area, and so does Vesturbæjarlaug, but Árbæjarlaug is a hidden gem, a perfect stop if you’re going out of town anyway, and pairs well with a visit to the Árbær Open Air Museum.

BEST POOL TO CHAT WITH LOCALS

Locals love going to the pool, and chilling in a hot tub is a good way to connect to Icelanders. Often, Icelanders meet in the pool and use this time to chat and catch up on the latest developments. Good options for hanging out with locals are Vesturbæjarlaug, Seltjarnarneslaug, and Árbæjarlaug pools.

BEST POOL FOR SERIOUS SWIMMERS

Laugardalslaug is Reykjavík’s biggest pool and the best one for a long swim. It’s an Olympic-size swimming pool, used for recreational swimming,

Laugardalslaug

exercise, and competitions. The big indoor pool is also used for training and competitions. Laugardalslaug also offers plenty of hot tubs, cold tubs, and steam baths for relaxation after a healthy swim, and to top it off, a fitness centre and spa are located next to the pool.

BEST POOL FOR A DAY TRIP

Basically every town in Iceland has its own pool. Almost all of them are beautifully located next to mountains and overlooking fjords and the ocean. If you plan to make a day tour out of your pool visit, head to the Westman Islands and visit Sundhöllin Vestmannaeyjar on Heimaey island. The ferry ride out to the island is an adventure, and there is a great indoor pool, a large outside pool with hot tubs, and cool waterslides.

BEST LUXURY SPA

In need of pampering? You’ve heard of the Blue Lagoon with its milky blue waters and mud masks, but did you know a brand-new spa opened just 10 minutes by car from downtown Reykjavík? Located at the edge of the bay of Kópavogur, the pool offers amazing coastal views. Sky Lagoon boasts a modern approach to traditional Icelandic swimming culture, making it the perfect spot to relax, enjoy a drink, socialise, and soak in the sun.