OUR GUIDE TO Below are a few instructions to help you navigate through this issue of Fashion Observer Magazine.
Swipe left & right or click left & right arrows to move between each article. G UNITIN ENCES R DIFFE GH U O THR N FASHIO land of Israeln
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Oui Oui PAREE
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RUTH TARVYDAS You touched so many lives. You will always be remebered
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UNITING DIFFERENCES THROUGH FASHION In the holy land of Israel there are extremes, separation even conflict but despite the tension there is a unity that permeates the culture and its people through their love of their country. Our preconceptions of Israel are born by an evening news cycle fixated on the world’s woes but thousands of miles from the madness of the Middle East lies a city that is seen as an oasis, an island of sanity away from the insanity that surrounds Israel.
In Tel Aviv you can find every hedonistic pleasure that your heart desires. The city has become a hotspot destination renowned for its cosmopolitan lifestyle and chic stores, dubbed the Miami of the Middle East, Tel Avians have learned how not to worry, for them the only time is now. They have learned that living for today is the only way, something we all need to learn.
As fashionable and cosmopolitan as the city appears on the outside, deep within the country is a divide. It’s a divide between the religious and the secular, the sexy and the modest, men and women, holy and hedonistic. Can’t we all just get along, is the question many of us are asking and one cool, creative Israeli man is doing something about it. Very much like our very own Guy Sebastian writing a song about it. “Dear God, dear soul, dear Mary, Mohammed, can we just get along. Dear heart, dear life, dear soldier, dear martyr, where did we go wrong, can we all just get along.” Lior Nordman, a fashion photographer is making a statement that others would not dare to. Fashion has something to teach us and this one man is using his passion and admiration for women to make a statement of a higher kind.
In Tel Aviv, I got a rare chance to interview Lior and see how his love for women and photography is making a difference and possibly changing people’s views and perceptions encouraging tolerance and unity through fashion. “Photography, in my opinion, holds the power to influence the public and fashion photography is one of the most influential mediums that the world has ever known.” By using fashion we can see our development or undevelopment through the centuries. We can create a new reality or improve the one that we are living in,” says Nordman. Lior’s work has received some attention, a provocative and controversial fashion shoot “Can’t we all get along” where he photographs mixed and ironic love affairs, which in his own words “were always a turn on for my inspiration and muse”.
His other fashion shoot is another controversial topic of gender segregation and here in the holy land where they were considering bus segregation had many in uproar. The law was never passed and we are all riding the buses together without any issues, although religious men are known to move if a woman sits beside them. Lior points out in reponse to Haredi (ultra orthodox) men claiming that women must dress extremely modestly to limit their attractiveness to men: “I am in the presence of rather scantily clad women several days a week, and I manage to control myself.”
Would we really want a world where we all have the same beliefs, where agreement is all we know. It would be the same as every woman wearing the same thing, isn’t that the biggest faux paus in Hollywood? Yet in life we seek sameness and conformity, in fashion we aim to be different, to stand out, to make a statement. Every woman expressing her inner self in a multitude of ways, we don’t see women fighting over wanting to look the same, instead they make a choice based on how they want to shine their light into the world, rockstar, edgy, girlie, all black, hippy, sexy, Gender segregation has existed whatever works. for as long as we can remember. According to Lior, “It is an act Lior’s work has reminded me, of violence or forgetting the yet again, about the power that significance of women. H e fashion holds and how through believes that women are much it we can learn diversity and closer to God then men, a difference. woman creates life inside her, unites, inspires and if someone should go sit on the It back of the bus, it’s the man challenges us to become better and more tolerant. We can see not the woman," says Lior. that the power of fashion lies in With his work, his goal was not every one’s life, you can meet to create controversy but to fashion everywhere you look or share his admiration for women. go and if we rallied together to He has through his work tried to celebrate the differences that understand the loss of control as Guy Sebastian’s song tells us a man would feel by pushing “Maybe if we’d work together, the situation to its final limit, we’d already have a heaven here a beautiful model standing in on earth”. the center of five men who are dressed as orthodox Haredim. His work is an amazing tool to criticise, to flatter, to take to the open subjects, which are taboos, with an unlimited selfinterpretation, and the ability to make the un-thinkable real. The message to the world is open your mind.
Why
Juice?
86% of Australians are not getting enough vegetables into their diets People are eating on average 2.9 serves of vegetables per day
Mostly commonly eaten vegetables were carrot (21%), broccoli (18.7%), tomatoes (15%) and potatoes (13.2%), however close to 20% of the potatoes eaten were french fries
An alarming 18% of people are getting one or less servings of vegetables per day Fresh juices supply your body with significant amount of vitamins, minerals and enzymes. Enzymes support thousands of chemical reactions that occur throughout the body. Because they are temperature sensitive, they begin to die at around 48 degrees C, ;which means all cooked and processed foods are devoid of enzymes. Juices also contain concentrated natural sugars that provide vital energy. Juicing removes the indigestible fibre from fruits and vegetables, and releases many of the nutrients that are trapped in the fibre. For example, when you eat a raw carrot you can assimilate around one per cent of the available beta carotene. However, when the carrot is juiced and the fibre removed, closer to 100% of beta carotene can be assimilated. Fibre is still important though, so continue to eat raw fruits and
National Health and Medical Research Council
vegetables to get enough fibre removal of the fibers in the juicing and keep you regular. process, enables juices to be very quickly digested and assimilated, Why not just eat the sometimes in a matter of minutes, vegetables? with a minimum of effort and exertion on the part of the Without the knowledge of the digestive system. principles involved in the use of fresh-live vegetables and fruits You can absorb up to 99% of their juices, one would naturally ask: nutritional value. Juices provide “Why not neat the whole vegetable concentrated supply of essential and fruit instead of juicing it and nutrients. The basic key to the what about the fiber that would value of nourishing your body is the life which is present in your be discarded from juicing? food and of those subtle elements, Solid food requires many hours known as enzymes. of digestive activity before its Enzymes have been described nourishment is finally available to as complex matter which the cells and tissues of the body. enables us to digest food and to While the fibers in solid food have absorb it into our blood. A lot virtually no nourishing value, like when we are given a ‘drip’ they do act as an intestinal broom in hospital and feed fluids and during the peristaltic activity of nutrients through a needle in the intestines, hence the need our arm because it is the to eat raw foods in addition to quickest way to get it into our drinking juices. However, the bloodstream.
The liver cleanse juice below is full of enzymes and nutrients which aid liver function and improve well being.
Liver Cleanse Juice - Solar Plexus Chakra - Yellow Juice Duration 10 weeks 1 x Grapefruit (Yellow or Ruby) 30 mls lemon juice 3 x cloves garlic finely chopped (or put through the juicer) 2 x tblsp flaxseed oil Juice the grapefruit and lemon, add all ingredients into blender and mix until the garlic is no longer visible. Affirmation: “I digest life with ease. I allow myself to feel freely all emotions physically and spiritually”
Associated Body Parts for Solar Plexus Chakra Abdomen, lower back, stomach, liver, spleen, digestive system, gall bladder, nervous system. Eases aggression, brings peace. In Harmony - Feeling of wholeness, inner calm and peace, inner tolerance and acceptance of others. A balance of the spiritual and material world. Out of Harmony - No trust in natural flow. Need to dominate. Emphasis on the material. Great need for material security. Purpose of Solar Plexus Chakra - Position in the centre of the body gives this Chakra its significance, impulses such as desires and wishes blend with impulses coming from above. This is where the personality is formed. ‘Feeling’ and ‘Being’ are integrated here. This is the melting-pot of spiritual and earthly aspects. Our liver’s main function is to naturally detox the body. It is our internal cleaner, which, given the right support, has the ability to keep the body clear of the junk which can cause illness. The liver is our second-largest organ (only the skin is bigger) and therefore one of the most important. If the body was an automobile, the liver would be its engine. It does hundreds of things to make sure it runs smoothly, playing a vital role in regulating fat and balancing our hormones, digestion and circulation.
Oui Oui PAREE
When
I was first approached about shooting a story for FOM I was given one word as my brief ‘timeless’ - which is a pretty open bag. When I found out Lisa from Paramount Models had been cast, and that she was currently competing in the Australian Supermodel of the Year competition, I instantly knew that I wanted to shoot her like a retro style supermodel, reminiscent of a young Claudia Schiffer. I wanted to really convey the glamour, curves and sex appeal that a supermodel has, and Lisa made it look effortless. I was extremely excited to welcome on board Amber Olsen of Pretty Boy as stylist, Holly Bell as MUA & Jayde Pleming on hair. We only had about a week to make it all happen and I have to say it came together beautifully. I decided the Gold Coasts French Quarter at Emerald Lakes would be the perfect location to set the scene of a day in the life of a beautiful woman on holiday in France. With fading light we ran from scene to scene with bundles of designer clothes and killer heels flying around in an almost animated manner. Lisa was perfection and everyone really nailed their respective jobs. The hardest thing about this shoot was waiting for the issue to be released so we could all see our finished work. Thank you FOM for having me, it was a pleasure. Carlene @ Studio Flamingo
Get Look THE
Care of
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GINA
R
amsey
After a year of sample making, customising and tailoring, Clint Webster decided to concentrate on women’s denim and now boasts his curve-enhancing BootyHuggersŽ jeans as being the signature items of his ClintonCharlie label. With the first batch selling out in less than three weeks in late 2006, ClintonCharlie has not looked back and continues to go from strength to strength in the highly competitive denim market.
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Photography: Aaron Mcpolin
Photography: David Broadway
Make-Up
ARTIST Gold Coast based make-up Artist, Kylie Eustace has just been announced as a finalist for The Australian Beauty Industry Awards - Make-up Artist of the Year. Judging by the reactions from her past and present clients, this news came as no surprise as they had quickly discovered, Kylie is absolutely dedicated to her Art.
Kylie EUSTACE
Kylie was honoured to be a finalist alongside some of the countries most talented make-up artists. Kylie has always been so inspired by previous winners Rae Morris who was last year announced in the Hall of Fame and Racheal Montgomery who was make-up Artist of the year in 2012 and 2013. Make-up Artist of the year is only possible to win twice so it is all very exciting. Kylie lives, breathes and loves everything about make-up and being a make-up Artist. She is extremely particular and loves experimenting and pushing her limits and believes this attitude keeps her creative and creating and makes her feel alive. Kylie has been in the make-up and hair industries for over 20 years. Rare days off will usually find Kylie mixing colours and getting around with test stripes decorating her wrists and arms or trying to convince an innocent bystander to just hold still for a second while she try’s something new out. Kylie loves to share her passion, creations, and journey and is satisfied seeing her clients, models and work colleague’s faces light up when they see the final results of the make-up she applies. Loving how makeup has the ability to make people smile. Kylie who also owns a busy salon, has had her work published in magazines worldwide. Her work includes Fashion and editorial photoshoots, Bridal make-up and fashion parades. Kylie also teaches, giving individual and group make-up tuition and is a regular ‘Industry expert’ guest speaker for Beauty schools on the Gold and Sunshine coasts and in Brisbane. For the last four years Kylie has directed and been the lead artist at fashion parades with the biggest event being the Sunshine Coast Fashion Festival/ IFW. Last year Kylie and her team made up 44 models. More recently Kylie has been doing specialist make-up for complex underwater photo shoots, The Imaginarium Series and also an underwater music video.
Forget the glitz and glamour: that is what the client gets. A makeup artist must be prepared to work hard and at times, very hard. Equally as important Kylie believes if you want to become a professional makeup Artist you must be a good communicator - or else! Always listen very carefully, explain options and outcomes even more carefully, come to an agreement and then deliver. Kylie feels, with good communication, no job is ever beyond her. The ability to interpret, liaise and deliver the ideas and result best suited to whatever job she is working on has been her greatest strength.
Being an ABIA Makeup artist of the year finalist is an opportunity for Kylie to share her passion at a new and exciting level. To see more of Kylies work check out facebook.com/ pages/Kylies-Professional The winner is announced at a GALA AWARDS DINNER TO BE HELD ON SUNDAY 24TH AUGUST AT THE NEW DOCKSIDE PAVILLION, DARLING HARBOUR
MARA Pomana
FINDING BALANCE
Let’s have a look at what’s happening in Australia at the moment. • According to the National Health Survey, 61% of Australians are overweight. • Diabetes Australia’s economic costs estimation more than doubled to $58 billion, this time taking into account not just health care but job productivity and other related quality of living costs. • Experts are predicting that many of today’s children will not outlive their parents unless something is done to curb childhood obesity. • 70% of adolescent girls have body dissatisfaction • Body dissatisfaction is identified in the Mission Australia Youth Survey (2010) as the top ranked issue of concern for young people.
It’s a misleading representation that sets a lot of ordinary people up to feel as if they are not succeeding in their pursuit of fitness or health unless they are in one extreme or another. I approach all people to be unique so I’ll never tell women to work out a certain number of times a week in order to see results. Instead I try to give people the tools they need, so that if they put in the time and effort, they’ll come out stronger, healthier, and happier. Here are some ideas I share with all my clients, and I hope you find them helpful too.
1. Diets don’t work.
I approach all people to be unique so I’ll never tell women to work out a certain number of times a week in order to see results
Eating whole, nutritious foods has to become a daily habit. Find a program, which works for you and apply the concept of balance in everything you do.
2. Snack all day! Think of it like this: your metabolism is a fire, and when you put more wood on it, it burns hotter. If you deprive it of wood, it dies out. Continually supplying your metabolism with fuel by eating four to six small meals a day means it’s always burning hot, incinerating fat and burning calories. Almonds, an apple, celery sticks are just some examples.
3. Start your workout with self-love. Stand in front of a mirror and look into your eyes. Spend some time here. See yourself for who you are right now. Start saying what you love about yourself. Do you like your lips? Your collarbones? Your booty? Your abs? Give yourself some positive credit. Be patient and kind to yourself. Your emotional state has a lot to do with how you will look on the outside. A positive mindset is crucial to a good workout!
4. Pick an affirmation. If you’re struggling with the self-love or with any other exercise, repeating an affirmation in your head can give you strength to push through fear and doubt. Some of my favorites are: I am confident, I am strong, I CAN do this!
5. Make a dance playlist! The right music can make a workout inspiring and uplifting, and it motivates you to keep going. Faster music can help pump you up for cardio, while slower tunes are great for toning and sculpting. Set a playlist you know you have to get through entirely before you finish your workout. When it’s your favorite music, you can get lost in it, and before you know it the hour is up!
6. Keep a food and exercise schedule. This allows you to reflect on the day and check in where you’re at. It also gives you a chance to set goals and track your progress so you can see just how far you’ve come. Just like any other to-do list, it’s very satisfying to write down your accomplishments at the end of the day and write a new one for tomorrow.
7. Take selfies. I have absolutely no idea how much I weigh, and I don’t particularly care. Your weight is nothing more than a measure of how hard gravity is working to pull your body toward the center of the earth. It does not take into account your muscle mass, your fat mass, how much you ate that day, or how much water you’re retaining. Most of us take selfies all the time. How about skipping the scale and putting that technology to use for your health and snapping a few photos of your body in the here and now? Take a candid look at these photos—no negative talk allowed—to check in as you progress and see how your body is changing.
8. Dress for success. Wear clothes that make you feel good about yourself. I love buying new gym wear as it motivated me even more to go an exercise in them. If you love your arms, wear a sports tank. If you adore your calves, get some capri pants. As you make progress, allow yourself to splurge on a new top or bottom to show off your sexy new muscles. Not only will this help to keep you motivated, but paying attention to your clothing’s fit is a much better way to gauge weight loss than a scale.
9. Know that strength training is a must. Many women fear the words “strength training,” but it’s absolutely essential for women of all ages. Not only does it help you get in shape by building muscle and burning fat, it also helps to increase bone density and defend against osteoporosis. Plus, a great strength-training session is the perfect way to manage stress and let off some steam.
10. Workout with a girlfriend. Everything in life is more fun when shared with other people. Research suggests that exercising with a friend increases adherence to a program since workout partners provide motivation as well as accountability. You can push each other and also compliment each other for your efforts. ‘Hi5s’, ‘hugs’ and ‘good job’ goes a long way.
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ANNAH
Stretton
The wonderful thing about digital platforms is that they enable todays business startups to test and trial products relatively cheaply. There are all sorts of great books that talk to strategies re this, one of the most relevant and engaging for me was Jack Delosa’s Unprofessional.
our needs and at a predicable and affordable price.
We have also been big users of the free website applications such as Word Press and Squarepeg (annahstretton.me and raw.org. nz have both been created using these.) The set up was effected by one Small startup businesses today of our graphic designers and we are not required to invest in now simply manage the sites inlarge amounts of stock nor house re content on a daily basis. make expensive commitments to physical premises when they In conjunction with these websites can simply create a website and we also manage active Facebook initialise social media platforms pages, Linked in, Twitter and that talk to their products and Instagram links. services. Like all social media drivers the Whilst I am no digital guru, the key to success on these platforms digitals platforms proven success is regular, creative and authentic has certainly made me sure engagement, we don’t simply try that I have developed a good to sell women frocks on these general understanding of the sites. digital applications available to me and their potential to grow We use social media for all sorts my business. So here are some of communication, as we not thoughts from me. only have a fashion voice but our business capability mantra Gone are the days of old, where is also important. We ensure any start up business had to engage recruitment that we are doing a web developer to set up their is on these pages as well as any website. There are many stock media we have been featured in applications that can be bought will be a linked to these pages . for very little cost that have massive abilities to do whatever We also work hard to cross functions you require on your pollinate with many different website - please do make sure that but relevant and like minded it is Ecommerce friendly because businesses to take advantage of like every one else I don’t want to their audience, i.e. mothers day email you to enquire for a price. we may combine with a chocolate or a wine provider, where we offer We are re developing and re collaborative products by way of launching our main website a competition to our combined (annahstretton.com) with Shopify. Facebook audiences with a It simply became more and more boosted post. costly to continue developing the new tweaks and concepts that we Take note, as Facebook have were looking for to enhance our changed their rules, and continue website. Shopify has provided a to do so, so be aware that even if ‘kitset’ platform that enables us you have millions of followers on to model a website that meets your fan page your posts will only
Small startup businesses today are not required to invest in large amounts of stock nor make expensive commitments to physical premises when they can simply create a website and initiate social media platforms
get to those that are regularly engaging with you. i.e. people that are liking your posts on a regular basis. To get to a wider audience you will need to boost the post to ensure that you reach the audience that you have chosen to target. In conduction with Facebook pages, we also run regular Facebook adverts and there are all sorts of rules re content on these i.e. less text more picture. For us these are about setting a predetermined budget and regular monitoring to see which ones work best. Upskill yourself on Facebook’s offerings, as the functions to promote and advertise are relatively cost effective, allow for a targeted campaign and this will ensure you are constantly picked up in search engines. You can through paid means reach large selected global audiences quickly without extensive costly marketing and lots of free giveaways Your website must be carefully thought through as to the visuals and content, the effort needs to be no different to the physical store that you would have set up. Merchandising is key, as well as the messages you send. The transaction process also needs to be simple. Ensure you consider the pain points, for our customers it is ease of return and shipping times, so it is essential that this information can be easily found on the home page and not buried somewhere on your site. Our home scrolling page banners on the main websites are changed out each week to reflect the new promotions that we are running. This content is also taken to our Facebook pages and may form the content of any flier(s) being sent to our database. Your data base is your companies golden goose. While you are talking to those that have agreed to sign up to be part of this family of communication it is paramount that you consider both the timeliness of information and content as it is very easy to incite a massive unsubscribe.
Without a bricks and motar store(s) data collection becomes more difficult so it really is about how you build your audience through the digital platforms .. we also have a opt in button on the websites. You may have seen the off-putting screen that appears on several websites as you access their products and services... we have chosen not to do this and instead elect to offer you a deal to sign up - we simply want to show how we value the relationship from its inception. Digital platforms need to be well understood to maximise, they also give your customer a voice and believe me they will use it. Once your products and services are reviewed in this space, the content is there forever and for all to see. The digital shopper relies very heavily on the forums when judging your brand. Reputable brands will become incredibly important in the digital world as they give purchasers a sense of security around acquisition. If you are not in this category, which can take years to achieve, then the forums become important tools for you. Business is about creating active advocates that will wax lyrical about about their experience with the product they have purchased - as it was a with the physical retail systems - there is nothing better to drive trade than a raving advocate, so really the same rules still apply.
If you are not digital today your business may not be relevant, as this is how the global world does business and communicates 24 hours a day. I love what these platforms offer and I love the constant change growth and extensive learnings …so embrace them and get started There is so such thing as a digital dummy .. in business you have to learn.
Review
Photographer Sunny Lim
VIRGIN AUSTRALIA
Melbourne fashion FEsTIVAL
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Photographer Maleika Halpin
MERCEDES BENZ fashion WEEK
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20
Australian Fashion Businesses struck down in 2013 Restructuring Australian Fashion Businesses for a stronger bottom line. Liquidation, voluntary administration, store closures, financial trouble, shrinking store foot print and sell- offs to conglomerates are some of the predictable headlines plaguing the Australian Textile, Fashion and Apparel industry consistently over the past two years. The latest stricken brands joining the list of those culled are former powerhouses Ksubi, Peeptoe Shoes, Kirrily Johnson, Willow, Collette Dinnigan, Super Shoe store, Fashion Fair and the recent sale of SUPRÉ to Cotton On Group. This list represents just some of the larger businesses, often ignored and not highlighted are the lesser known brand names shutting up shop on boutique fashion strips like Sydney’s Oxford St, where you’ll find them aplenty. You can recognise them side by side with identical empty glass windows formerly framed with current season delights, vibrant fabrics and tempting textiles, now replaced with paper posters and a temporary “pop up” convenience
store or nail bar taking residency. This whitepaper explores some of the reasons behind the brand extinction and THiNK Consulting Groups role to implement strategies of transformation, turnaround and performance improvement to ensure that in 12 months time, we are not reporting further on the disarray of the once thriving Australian Fashion Industry.
Reason 1: A quantitative failure of brands to adapt to change rapidly enough when the market place is dynamic and evolving towards new trends and technologies. Reported in BRW, direct from the administrators of Lisa Ho’s brands, “The descent of Lisa Ho Retail and Lisa Ho Designs into voluntary administration last May, owing about $10 million to employees and creditors, is an all-too-common case of an entrepreneur being too slow to admit that things need to change, says Todd Gammel, a business recovery and insolvency partner at HLB Mann Judd”.
WILLOW
Reason 2:
Reluctance to reinvest into the business in areas such as working capital, people, research and development, vertical operations, technology and external eyes to offer critical advice. “Sydney based company – Peeptoe Shoes cited a combination of pressures including high overheads and increased competition in the sector as the reasons behind its collapse” reported in Inside Retail. However, from our perspective, a little market research into customer’s insights may have just been the key to understand where the brand went wrong. A table of women at a recent meeting highlighted that the brands shoes were “too narrow, too high and the store was cluttered with jewelry and handbags, making it difficult to identify it was a shoe store.” Another easily avoided scenario where unique skills and capabilities and, a previously valuable brand goodwill has fallen victim to pessimistic projections.
LISA HO
KIRRILYjOHNSTON
Reason 3:
like sizing and fabric translating into late deliveries, late payments Failing to embrace a myriad of which have a detrimental flow available business, supply chain on affect across all levels of the and retail technologies to achieve business. new efficiencies and sources of competitive advantage. (BDO In recent months, Ksubi certainly ran into some trouble with their Spend Trend Report 2013) supply chain and the relationships Australian businesses have not with their suppliers. “Bleach said kept pace with technology to after failures in China, it had found not only enhance customers a new offshore supply chain after shopping experience at the front problems caused a delay in the end of the business but also their production of Insight and Ksubi planning and buying strategies clothing and accessories.” on the back end of the business, Suppliers are no longer treated constantly being outplayed by as partners in the supply their international, early adopting, chain process and therefore relationships suffer, impacting tech-savvy competitors. the bottom line.
Reason 4:
Not prioritizing working capital for growth projects and opportunities. Fashion epitomizes growth, flux and change, why isn’t this passion for growth reflected in and driving financial planning and investment into core areas that would improve performance and efficiencies of the business to reduce costs. Fact -Profit margin growth increased by 2.7%, which came down to retailers successfully increasing their revenue without impacting on their costs. Fact -One of the highest recorded losses to impact the industry lay around Billabongs $750 million write – off and -64.2% net profit margins. (BDO Spend Trend Report 2013)
Reason 5: Supplier relationships, quality and competitive pricing are being tarnished and compromised resulting in a lack of manufacturing consistencies
But having the same product, as your neighbor in the shopping centre isn’t going to create a stand out proposition. Fact -Consumers have a “growing appetite” for in store shopping (Columbia Business School research), they want to touch, feel and connect with the product.
Reason 7:
Inefficiencies in the Australian Fashion industry are opening a gap in the market for international players who are integrating technology, business resources and harnessing trends to the point of creating and reinventing them. This aggressive approach Reason 6: towards creation and innovation leaves others behind as mere The home grown world of followers, and following has fashion is constantly looking always been out of fashion. over it’s shoulder to see what competitors are offering both Reason 8: locally and globally rather than being at the forefront of design It defines a shortsighted and and development and driving stubborn mentality to believe innovative production strategies. that you can do it on your own and driving innovative strategies. and not taking advantage of objectivity that external eyes bring to the business. A fear of outside criticism and a decline of operational control mean the focus shifts to irrelevant and frivolous details.
Knowing what the customer wants and being able to deliver on that through brand and customer experience is essential
Reason 9: A void of passion and disengagement or simply pure “love for the job” has settled on the industry, turning it into another cogs and wheel enterprise, a throwback to the factory days of product- market orientation. Fashion is about something much more intangible, special and even celestial. It is much more than factory floors and pricing policies.
Fact -Retail sales leapt forward in November rising 0.7% (Macquarie Research) Here are 8 key strategies to convert your business challenges into opportunities:
1. Reducing costs in the right places to achieve better profit margins – Catherine Taouk reflects on a time just before she left SUPRÉ in November 2012, “I set out on a mission to turn the business around.
In a little over a week we had uncovered over $2 million in excess overheads. From store rents and lease renewals, overtime, transport, freight, advertising, annual leave liability, base rosters, car leases, online postage, online pick and pack efficiencies and stock control. And I hadn’t even got my hands on the serious stock issue that lay dormant in our warehouse.”
2. Increasing revenue by embracing technologies that improve customer insights, enhance loyalty, attract prospects from brand-aligned demographics, and gain valuable information into consumer’s habits and identify emerging trends well before they reach tipping point. (BDO Spend Trend Report 2013)
3. Connect to your people with good old-fashioned market research – speak to your customers, your team and your suppliers to uncover the true perception of the company and brand, what makes it work and what is holding it back. And market research doesn’t need to be expensive.
4. Use of technology to create efficiencies (and reduce costs) across all operations of the business. This would always come with an upfront and initial investment, however with key cost cutting strategies
and converting excess stock into cash flow, hidden finances can always be uncovered to inject back into the business.
5. Optimising sales and generating strong relationships with consumers by creating a unique and sharable customer experience. One key touch point with customers is through the retail and eTail
experience. Creating an open and streamlined delivery and returns processes for purchases. Giving customers more flexibility in their purchases. Facilitating the online channel can turn into your greatest strength as more shoppers move to virtual spending.
6. Enhancing the in store shopping experience, more than mannequins and merchandising. How can you create a memorable connection with your customer? Catherine Taouk shares a recent experience at
Nespresso Boutique to purchase a new coffee machine. “The shopping experience has been left engrained in my mind and sharing it with the world. I was made to feel like I was checking in to a 5 star hotel. The team had incredible product knowledge; they relayed detailed information relating to my past purchases and a recent conversation had with a Nespresso Club team member. Then to cap it off to try a new Nespresso flavour on my departure”. A holistic and satisfied customer. Completely.
7. Engaging Customer conversion technology both online and offline to optimize on business operations. 8. Know when to adopt old-fashioned strategies – spend time in stores, meet with suppliers, benchmark rather than imitate competitors, connect with people inside and outside the business. Get their feedback, their insights; they may just hold some key information to adjust the business model for a stronger outcome.
Launa Inman sums it up so well “For fashion companies to be successful in this fast changing world, no matter how big or small, you need to ensure the customer feels valued and that you are talking to them personally. It will be all about how the company mines the data they have collected on the consumer to bring customisation and a unique shopping experience that is exclusive to the shopper. The likes of Burberry have been incredibly successful at doing this. Technology and service, in what ever format, will be key to delivering this individual experience to the customer” Launa Inman (former CEO of Billabong and Target and now an Independent Non-Executive Director of the Commonwealth Bank Australia)
So the question we pose and probably the most challenging decision business owners will need to make: Where will you be making investments into your business that will stimulate revenue, shift profitability and protect you from international players? • Increase in Working Capital • Investment in your people to lead, train and develop • Investment in market research and marketing • Development of vertical operations -retail, eTail, wholesale and international • External eyes to review the business and offer critical advice And finally. Expose your vulnerability, let your guard down to get the right people involved to support and instigate change. Having honest discussions about your weaknesses may not be the Australia way, but it should be. Maybe it’s time to change with the times and end the progression of fashion brands heading to the grave.
Kamilla and I were both very inspired by British Vogue and we follow it religiously. British Vogue portrays such edgy, unique and sophisticated designers, you just can’t help but fall in love with everything. I am very inspired by all things couture. To me couture is the absolute epitome of perfect fashion and everyone should be wearing it rain, hail or shine. Think about what a truly creative and colourful environment we would function in if everybody dressed in couture!
How did you first develop an colours and the designs , they interest in fashion industry? were just so different and unique. From then on I became more Amie: My first taste of the interested in fashion as I started fashion industry came from my learning about different styles of mum. She was a young mother fashions from around the world I and absolutely stunning with became very inspired. a particularly elegant taste in fashion. Although we didn’t have What made you want to create a lot of money growing up, she your own label? always managed to be creative with her clothing. Always elegant, Amie: I’ve worked as a model on-trend and risque. People for the majority of my adult life always stared at her in the street and in doing so, I found my taste and gave her compliments. She in fashion evolving past what would never leave the house has been made available to the without making sure my sister and every day consumer. I struggled I, as well as herself, looked at our to find clothing that represented absolute best. My mother became my tastes and was affordable and something of a fashion icon to readily available. I applaud our me, with much of her wardrobe international ‘monarch’ designers still leaving me envious. that create such beautiful and inspirational clothing, however Kamilla: My taste in fashion at the current pricing available, has always been very out there it was always unrealistic of me to whether it be classy and elegant believe I would ever manage to to edgy and bold. I have always own more then a few statement dressed to stand out because pieces over a lifetime, I did not fashion has always been apart of initially conspire to to create my my life. My father is Indian and own label. It started with a deep mother is Samoan. We grew up in desire to create the sort of clothing a very multicultural environment. I liked, for myself. One day We also use to live in Nz so cold Kamilla and I were discussing the weather was my favourite because finer points of designing clothing I loved wearing big coats and big we liked for ourselves. Things boots. Nothing has changed there like, ‘I like this design except ha ha. My mum would always the skirt is too long’, ‘I would dress us girls up in Indian/ cut this here’, ‘I would use this Samoan outfits for occasions fabric’. This quickly turned into with the whole family. I loved the me pulling out a sketch pad and
from there we started designing and sketching pieces. Once the designs hit paper, there was really no going back. Kamilla: It’s something that every young girl dreams of, having her own fashion label. Amie and I go shopping together, whenever we see a piece of clothing we have to show the other. We practically share each others wardrobes as well! So wanting to create our own fashion label was something that we both dreamed of really. And then one day we literally just said, ok let’s do it. Lets make our own clothes. And so it went from there. What inspired the name Kill Casey? Amie: It’s very unusual isn’t it? We’ve had a varied response from everyone who’s had contact with the name so far. All agreeing that its very catchy, but very different. Kamilla and I had a lot of trouble initially coming up with a name. We wanted something catchy, edgy and something that represented us as a team. After going through numerous failed attempts we decided to play with a combination of our names. One day I was completing some random task when the name just came to me. I texted Kamilla and received an instantaneous
response. And Kill Casey the label I love them. Before Kill Casey I was officially born. would have worn them every day of my life if I could have. Kamilla: It’s such a different name that I love because its just We both adore the cold crisp so catchy! It’s funny really how winter weather, so it was easy to the name was created. Amie and I decide that our premier launch had been thinking for a while and should be based on a winter range. nothing really fit. Amie texted me one day saying ‘Hey do you like Kamilla: As well as being name Kill Casey?’ . Basically she inspired by British Vogue. Most combined both our names and I of my other inspirations were absolutely loved it! from Tumblr. I follow many, many amazing tumblr blogs. I What inspires your designs and think tumblr is a great way to what made you decide to do a connect via social media when winter launch as the premier to it comes to fashion. You find so your label? many different types of fashion blogs from Couture to 50’s to Amie: Kamilla and I were both simply monochrome inspiration. very inspired by British Vogue So many different cultures from and we follow it religiously. British around the world are seen on Vogue portrays such edgy, unique tumblr. I love that someone say and sophisticated designers, you from New York can connect with just can’t help but fall in love with someone from New Zealand just everything. I am very inspired by from having the same love of all things couture. To me couture fashion. Seeing what inspired is the absolute epitome of perfect others and what they liked is what fashion and everyone should I kept in mind while designing as be wearing it rain, hail or shine. well as what we liked of course. Think about what a truly creative What sort of women do you want and colourful environment we to see wearing your label and how would function in if everybody are you hoping your clothing will dressed in couture! affect them? I would have to say though, my all time favourite designer label to date is The Blondes. They create so many colourful, fashion forward...dare I say crazy pieces.
What sort of women do you want to see wearing your label and how are you hoping your clothing will affect them?
Amie: I believe our collection to be extremely versatile. You can dress our garments up for dinner or dancing or down for every day wear and dare I say...office wear? Our target consumer audience is eighteen through to forty. We like to think of our pieces as ‘modernized’ versions of classic garments. Those pieces that hang in your wardrobe for years and years and you can pull out every season and still look fabulous. We honestly believe our label will take you that long mile. We want to see a diverse range of women wearing our label and I don’t just mean in age. The clothing has been designed to flatter all shapes and sizes. Our clothing is right in between that niche of every day on trend wear and couture. We’ve managed to turn couture into realistic and not just for super special occasions and events. One thing that you will notice about couture is that it is very good at delivering a personality to its wearer. It turns you into a character that fits that garment. I believe that this has carried through into the Kill Casey Collection. No matter your personality or clothing style we’ve designed garments that can build on this and take you to the next level in fashion. Love those pin-
up inspired below the knee pencil skirts? So do we and we’ve added a front sheer panel to turn this classic into an edgy statement piece!
designs. We couldn’t finalize a single garment until both of us were entirely happy and as both of us are perfectionists, that was a journey in itself.
Our goal was to make the women wearing Kill Casey feel daring, edgy, bold, powerful, sexy and fashion forward. Kill Casey allows the wearer to take on the characteristics of the garment and we’ve named this collection Season of Monarchs to reinforce this ideal. When you want to feel beautiful you wear our Siren skirt. Want to feel powerful why not wear our Huntress skirt?
Kamilla: It has already been a crazy journey to have come this far. We are both forever so grateful for the on going support from friends, family and social media! Probably the hardest point was finalizing our designs because we are both perfectionists. Each design we went over and over to perfect it whether it be what fabric to use to the smallest detail to where the zipper should be.
Kamilla: Because our designs are all so different to the everyday clothing, the clothing basically speaks for itself. We want the women who wear our clothing to feel beautiful and different because with out a doubt they will stand out in the crowd. We want our clothing to give confidence and empower the everyday women because our designs will turn heads and people will admire.
What marketing strategies do you have in place and how do you How will you be developing your plan to sell to your consumer? label and where do you see it going? Amie: We’re planning on marketing predominately via Amie: As we become more social media at this stage. I widely known we’d like to expand believe a large part of future retail the collection and offer more will continue to be online. We’ll garments every season. We’re be taking advantage of social are currently an online boutique media sites such as facebook and as I have previously said that and instagram to really boost we’d like to stay predominately our networking and get our online, we’d also at some stage in designs out there to our target the future love to build a state of audience both nationally and the art boutique store where our internationally. I think one thing buyers can come and have a more that really works for us is our personal experience with our pricing. We have boutique pricing label. We have so many ideas. but it is not unrealistic to the everyday consumer. Something Kamilla: We will be releasing that was also especially campaigns for each season.
As an emerging designer what obstacles have you encountered to get to this point? Amie: We have faced so many obstacles its not funny. The most ridiculous being our super strict judgment on ourselves and our
important to Kamilla and I was for our consumers to know that all our garments are special and handcrafted. All fabrics used are to the best of our knowledge vegan friendly and cruelty free. WE believe you can experience the sense of luxury our clothing style offers, without having to hurt other living creatures. Kamilla: At this moment we are using social media to our advantage. Instagram and Facebook is a great way to connect with people. We will eventually create a tumblr for tumblr bloggers to connect with us and see our designs.
Between those releases tho we will be releasing new designs each couple of weeks. We hope to one day open a boutique. What has been the most satisfying point of the journey so far? Amie: The most satisfying moment for me was holding our final samples in my hands. They were no longer just ideas in my head or on paper, no longer ill fitting pieces of internationally sourced fabric, but real, amazing, tremendous designs. I was so proud of Kamilla and myself. It took us so much hard work to get to that point. Kamilla: The most satisfying point so far for me is probably when we started our instagram account. Reason why is because we have been getting amazing feedback from our followers. Knowing that they love our designs and inspirations keeps me going at the end of the day.
understanding cosmic astrology by Darinka
ABOUT VEDIC ASTROLOGY It is by no means an easy task to begin writing about an ancient science. However, my fascination and curiosity with astrology has been unquenchable for over 10 years, and recently, my shift to exploring vedic astrology has opened up many new doorways and shed light on many questions I have had about life, the universe and my role in it, as well as our collective roles that we are all playing out here on earth; the stage where the celestial and planetary rays manifest their potentials. I do not wish to claim title of being a ’vedic astrologer’ however I write to share my fascination with the subject, as I learn about it and experience its application, as well as combine it with stories, mythologies and archetypes that relate deeply to the human psyche and the human experience. “Jyotish” literally means the Science of Light, as it is a study of the light from the stars and planets. Light is codified information. Light illuminates the dark shadows of ignorance, and so the knowledge and understanding of the great heavenly bodies serves to en-lighten our minds, hearts and souls. The ancient Seers, or Rishis, studied the movements of the planets against the starry celestial backdrop, and the relationships that occur between them. They understood how these relationships had a direct effect on the quality of our daily lives on earth. As they observed these events, the knowledge was passed down orally from master to pupil.
LEARN THE FUNDAMENTALS The study of the stars through astrology is fundamentally about understanding the universal archetypes that manifest within us; where we experience all the latent energy and potential of life. Many people think that astrology is about Fate; that what is written in the stars is unchangeable and “thou shalt repent forever more” No. Astrology is about becoming a Self-Master. It is about waking up to the forces that coalesce inside; the gradual realisation that we have the ability to direct the impulses, desires, thoughts and feelings that arise from inside us, that in fact, by harnessing this energy and by proper application, we can indeed manifest our full potential on Earth. Join me as we explore this ancient form of astrology. An introduction into the fundamentals of Vedic Astrology; a little about what astrology means; an understanding of the more esoteric application of astrology in daily life. We will learn the differences between vedic (sidereal) and western astrology; highlight the main factors in astrology and the birth chart, find out how the planets got their rulerships and more!
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VEDIC astrology for the soul traveller
by Darinka
What’s Your Vedic Sign? Sidereal Sun Sign dates: (They change slightly from year to year) Libra: October 16 - November 15 Aries: April 14 - May 13 Scorpio: November 15 - December 15 Taurus: May 13 - June 15 Sagittarius : December 14 - January 13 Gemini: June 15 - July 15 Capricorn : January 13 – February 13 Cancer: July 15 - August 16 Aquarius: February 13 - March 13 Leo: August 16 - September 16 Pisces: March 13 - April 13 Virgo: September 16 - October 16 One of the key features of vedic sidereal astrology, which is almost never mentioned in the “back of the paper” astro blurbs, is that the current state of planets and their effect on a personal level, really has to do with the configuration of the planets within one’s chart. There are 12 possible rising signs, or ascendants, and each ascendant modifies the whole chart due to the shift of signs upon the houses. Each ascendant will have planets that are strong for that sign and others that are inimical to it. It is also important to remember that if someone has a weak planet, say mars, and the moon comes along and makes a stressful relationship to it by transit, the effect of that would be very different, than to those who do not have that weak planet.
Taurus were in fact born when the sun was actually passing through the constellation of Aries.
Saraswati Yoga There is a special combination of Jupiter, Venus and Mercury this month in June. It occurs when these 3 planets are placed in their own signs, in exaltation or in certain auspicious houses. On June 18th, Venus will move into her own sign of Taurus, Jupiter will move into his exaltation sign of Cancer and Mercury is currently in his own sign of Gemini. This combination creates what is known in Vedic astrology as Sarswati Yoga.
Saraswati is also sometimes known as Gayatri. Her name originally means “having many pools” and is also a river goddess, however more commonly First of all, it needs to be understood that the vedic she is known as the goddess of music, knowledge seers have some of the oldest recorded astrological and the creative arts. She represents the flow of knowledge in known history. Greek astrology came wisdom and higher consciousness; all the arts, new and ancient spring from her. much later and emerged from the roots of vedic astrology and as a result omitted most of the vedic predictive methods, including the 27-sign zodiac of Jupiter and Venus are two brahmin planets, meaning they are most beneficial energies in the the lunar calendar and divisional charts. sky, and as a result they bestow their blessings in a warm and congenial manner, especially when Secondly, the western greek zodiac is incorrect by placed in these signs. approximately 23-24 degrees, which is almost a whole sign. This means that the majority of people who thought they were born under the sun sign of To add to that, Mercury being in his own sign as
VEDIC astrology for the soul traveller well blends the energies of wisdom, music, arts and knowledge. It will be a wonderful solstice, a time to explore the arts, go to galleries, play and listen to music, and become inspired by the beauty of life and creativity. The last few months have been challenging with Mars being retrograde, the eclipses and conjunctions of the shadow planets to Venus. Now we can feel nourished and refreshed to begin new projects and endeavours that have currently been on hold.
A Word on Saturn The great Master Saturn has been hanging out in the sign of Libra since the 14/11/11, and will be due to shift into Scorpio early November this year. Over the last year Saturn in its exaltation sign has brought significant partnerships and relationships into our lives, including business partnerships and contracts, (marriage is a contract). Any relationships that have begun over this time will carry a sense of responsibility and sobriety. Libra is the sign of relationship par excellence, so when Saturn, the planet of discipline, patience, responsibility and detachment comes here, there is a blend of those energies, creating a possibility for long-term partnerships as well as the desire for commitment and shared responsibility. You can work well with your partner. Saturn has been retrograde on and off throughout the year, and so, there will be times where tensions and apparent restrictions within partnerships may have felt unbearable, restrictive and limiting. Remember that the inherent restriction that comes with all relationships serve to teach us how to balance one’s personal needs to those of other people. Yogic practices such as asana, pranayama and meditation will go a long way to restore and maintain your balance. Those who have their sidereal sun, moon or ascendant in Libra or Aries will feel their relationship dynamics highlighted.
Jupiter’s Blessings! Jupiter will bestow his blessings when he moves into his exaltation sign of Cancer on the 18th of June. Jupiter is most comfortable in the sign of the moon as his most benevolent energies are able to fully express themselves. Cancer represents all things related to the mother, as well as all things connected to home, family, feelings and emotions. It will be a lovely time for most people, especially if jupiter is strong in your chart. The energy of Jupiter over the next year will serve as a doorway to connecting to our hearts on a higher plane and expanding our compassionate natures, indicating a time to be inspired by the power of compassion and service, and in the sharing of those qualities with other people. For some, they may feel like adding to their family through progeny, or to connect with family in a deeper and more meaningful way, for others, however, it could expand pertinent issues that may need to be dealt with. As Jupiter is aspecting Saturn, the balance between expansion vs. contraction is emphasised, hard work, leading to growth and abundance is the running theme. We all reap wonderful rewards when the lessons of Saturn are integrated with the wisdom and grace of Jupiter.
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In the next issue we look at the removal of religious barriers and the rise of global faith as artists and authors discuss their views on spirituality and surrendering to the Divine.
�whatever opens us up and ALLOWS US TO Surrender, trust and move forward towards whatever it is we are meant to be doing here, is powerful and important...� JAI-JAgdeesh
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model spotlight
Germany Celebrity Chef
style
SAMMY
In my profession, it is important to carefully execute, to ensure the satisfaction of the guests. Cooking is the enthusiasm and the expression of my creativity. Every day my goal is to experience imaginative with the feeling something special for the guests through my craft I work hard to produce the best of taste quality. I constantly experience new expressions of the cuisine in order to improve the taste. This is my personal challenge. The variety of offered Food, its preparation and the development of new recipes.
Exotic Caribbean Night
Salomon “Sammy� Lommatzsch
Exotic Caribbean Night
to make
1 Courgette flower 4 Scampi
3 Cherry Tomatoes 4 Figs cut in quarters 3 Red Currant 2 Kumquats Salt & Pepper Olive oil Sauce Ingredients 1 Cup of Orange Juice 1 Table spoon of butter 1 Red or Spanish Onion 1 Cup of Sweet white wine Cilantro | Coriander 1 Cup of cream
Recipe
Salt & Pepper Pinch of sugar
Place a pot of water bring to the boil with some salt.. Place the courgette in the hot water for a minute. Add Olive oil to a pan allow to heat for one minute or until hot , Then add the Scampi in the hot pan together with the Cherry Tomatoes, Figs Red currant Kumquats and salt and pepper to taste Take of the heat put a side. Sauce - Slice the spanish onions. Place butter in a hot pan and add the oinions. Stir fry for 2 minuntes. Add the sweet white wine allow the alcohol cook away. Then add the orange Juice then the cream. Add Coriander or Cilantro Salt, pepper and Sugar to taste. Plate up and drizzle the sauce over the dish
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IS FASHION FAILING
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VEDIC ASTROLOGY
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