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SUMMER 2015 VOL. 1 ISSUE 3
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MANIERA DISTRICT SUMMER 2015!
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eatly pigeon-holing things into distinct categories is all very well, but here at MANIERA DISTRICT, we tend to be
more interested in the hybrid—that interesting space where two or more categories overlap. So with this in mind, the summer issue introduces some amazing digital artwork by Adam Martinakis whose work is a stunning mix of art and technological expertise. Science fiction is another art/science crossover and we share the latest news about a fantastic exhibition by the Museum of Science Fiction (MOSF) that takes a look at how space travel may look in the future. The past and the present snuggle up together in our Mani Style feature on 70s fashion and we have an Anglo-Irish take on film and a Mexican/USA fusion food feature that looks at the tasty treat that is the taco. Our main fashion feature showcases the aptly named Cross Pollination collection by emerging fashion designer Holly Jayne Smith who mixes traditional Moroccan style with contemporary sportswear to come up with something beautifully unique, while our ‘cool stuff’ feature looks at a technology inspired dress that emulates nature. So wherever you are reading this, I hope you enjoy the blurring of the lines and have a fabulous summer.
Yours Faithfully,
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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF | CEO Formerly known as MANIERA
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MANIERA DISTRICT (ISSN 2326-5760) is an art, fashion and technology lifestyle publication owned, operated and published by MANIERA LLC. Any views, opinions or interpretations expressed in columns are solely those of the author and do not represent those of MANIERA LLC and its subsidiaries. MANIERA LLC will not accept any responsibility for any views, opinions or interpretations expressed in the pages of MANIERA DISTRICT, MyManiera.com or other communications. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MANIERA DISTRICT 4713 Jay Street NE, Washington, DC 20019. Single-Copy $6.99 Annual Subscriptions (4 issues) $24.95
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SPRIN VOL. G 2015 1 ISSUE
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ROBE digi tal ar RT CO tist RNELIU S
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CONTENTS
SUMMER 2015
28
IRISH-AMERICAN CINEMA
42
FASHION BY HOLLY JAYNE SMITH
32
ON THE COVER Adam Martinakis
REGULARS WTH? YUM! MANI STYLE MUSIC DISTRICT STAR SCI FI COOL STUFF
There & Back Again Tacos! The Return of the 70s With or Without U2? Allison Leotta The MOSF An Interactive Dress
6 8 10 12 18 20 26
38 SKIN
MYMANIERA.COM | MANIERA DISTRICT | 5
there & back
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BY CHRIS HURLEY
WTH?
AGAIN
U
sually, when writing this column I take the perspective of an Englishman who is now resident in DC. This issue is an exception because this time I find myself in Glasgow, Scotland thinking about DC. Coming back to the UK is something you generally need to pay me to do. It’s not meant as a bitchy comment against Britain, although the government they recently voted in for another term does provide more than ample incentive to stay the heck away. This time, money was offered and, well, here I am. My last trip to Glasgow was also my first, and was memorable mostly because that is where I got married. That was back in 2002 and, almost 13 years later, it was difficult to know what to expect. Part of me was expecting stereotypical, pasty, half-drunk fried-Mars-bar-eating lard arses who are in a race to the death between diabetes and smoking related diseases, while another part was expecting a cleaner, more corporate environment reminiscent of the post-mob Vegas. As it turns out, both realities exist here. On the one hand, the city still suffers from a lack of opportunities and an overabundance of unhealthy living. There are girls of a clearly unhealthy BMI poured carelessly into clothing that proclaims TMI to the world. They are accompanied by their male counterparts who invariably have their name tattooed on their neck or hands, like some kind of idiot medical alert bracelet. On the other hand, there are some radiantly healthy people walking the streets and the work done on the local stadium, The SSE Hydro, has been nothing short of transformational in how people conduct business and entertainment. My hotel is on Argyle Street and is the perfect illustration for the point at hand. It is one of two quality hotels in the area and has a world class Italian Restaurant, The Piccolo Mondo, and has the city’s oldest gay bar, The Waterloo, just a stone’s throw away. Unlike DC where gay bars are sure signs of neighborhoods undergoing positive transitions, here, on the same street, there are three pawn shops, abandoned buildings and homeless people begging on the streets. Oh, and smoking...SO many more people smoke here than in DC.
It’s reminiscent of DC’s Chinatown about five years after Marion Barry left office. Summer is the perfect time to visit Glasgow since it is relatively warm, not humid, and boasts about 19 hours of sunlight per day day (reverse that for winter and turn the weather dial to ‘Siberia-with-grainalcohol’). The cultural and ethnic diversity is similar to DC in that there is a wide range of ethnicities and languages on display. I do however still find it slightly unusual to be greeted by a Sikh complete with turban, beard and thick Scottish accent that bears no trace whatsoever of Indian heritage. Summer is also the perfect time to avoid DC; the stifling humidity that accompanies the heat, the increase in crime during summer months, and the bearing of overweight tattooed skin that should rightfully belong covered is enough to make a trip to Scotland seem worthwhile. What both cities have in common is a reinvention over the last two decades that has both helped and embittered different sections of a changing population. Although this is really only a short trip, it was free of the dread usually accompanied by a trip back home to England. While happy that the Scottish decided to stay in the Union during the referendum, it is difficult not to empathize with those who voted to turn their backs on the Conservative government and sell-out Labour party that came in under Blair and Brown. The Scottish are more open, sociable and down-to-earth than most of their English counterparts and their insistence that they stand independent of the English regardless of the Union engenders huge amounts of amity on my part. Britain would most certainly be culturally impoverished in losing Scotland, while the Scottish would lose having a whipping boy for their many complaints. Am I happy as a DC resident that the US ceded from the UK? Let’s just say that, while it’s hard not to wish a bunch of Red Coats would revisit Congress and set fire to it again, absence most certainly makes the heart grow fonder. I look forward to getting back on the plane and coming back home—to Washington DC. Hot and sweaty though it is, there’s nothing like a trip back to your roots to realize that you have in fact been transplanted.
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YUM!
t
he humble taco has been a part of Mexican culture for a long time. As Mexico opened up to outside contact, the taco found its way to America and the rest of the world. Now the simple corn based staple has become irrevocably linked with Mexican culture, but with a postmodern twist. Different nations and different cultures have tweaked the taco to suit their own cuisine and palates. But, where did it really originate? And how do Mexicans actually enjoy this dish? It is hard to produce a definitive timeline for the taco. Sixteenth century Spanish writers Bernal Diaz del Castillo and San Bernardino de Sahagún mention it in the books they wrote about the Spanish conquest of Mexico. History has it that the taco first appeared as a result of a specific necessity. In most pre-hispanic cultures men went to work in the fields while the women stayed at home, taking
tacos:
A LITTLE PIECE OF MEXICO IN DC BY CYNTIA ARANDAY care of the children and preparing the meals. Women would take food out to their husbands while they worked. They needed an easier way to transport the food,and so they created the taco using the tortilla as an edible container in which to hold the food and prevent it from spilling or getting cold. Throughout his life, Sahagún wrote about the different types of tortillas he had come in contact with, while Diaz del Bernal, in his book “True history of the Conquest of New Spain,” mentions the first ever recorded taquiza, a gathering where people eat only tacos. He uses the word quauhtaqualli which became shortened to taqualli, and subsequently taco, by the Spanish who struggled with the original pronunciation. A more recent American version regarding the origin of the taco, has been developed by Professor Jeffrey M. Pilcher (professor of history at the University of Minnesota). He claims that tacos were created much later in the Eighteenth century Mexican silver mines. The word taco Pilcher suggests referred to small slips of paper used to wrap up explosive charges used to extract the ore.
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For a Mexican living abroad, a taco can represent a piece of home, reminding us of the people, the places and the ambience of the place one grew up in. Many “Mexican” eateries in the USA in general, and D.C. in particular have more of a Tex-Mex vibe than a purely Mexican one. The Americanized TexMex version replaces the original soft tortilla with a crispy hard-shell. There are still some places however that provide an authentic Mexican experience. Here are some of the places you can drop by and get that homey-feel and flavor whatever your budget. When only a taco will do, try these out for size:
OYAMEL COCINA MEXICANA ($$$) www.oyamel.com
Located at 401 7th St NW. Here you can experience a gourmet approach to some Mexican classics, from Tacos de Tinga Poblana con Puerco (a stew of shredded pork with chorizo, chipotle, lettuce and avocado), de Suadero (brisket), de Cochinita Pibil con Cebolla en Escabeche (typical dish from Yucatán pit barbecue pork with pickled red onion and Mexican sour orange) to the truly exotic Chapulines (sauteed grasshoppers).
DISTRICT TACO ($)
www.districttaco.com Situated in three different locations in Washington (M Street, Pennsylvania Ave & F St NW) this food chain has some incredible tacos, a combination of tortilla and a choice of topping. I recommend that you try the Tacos Al Pastor (carved rotisserie pork marinated in Guajillo chilli and served with chopped pineapple), Carnitas (slow-cooked pork) and Barbacoa (slow-cooked shredded beef) all with coriander and onion and salsa. Be brave and try the most spicy one!
EL CHILANGO ($)
www.tacoselchilango.com This is a food stand located at 14th St N & N Quinn St in Arlington. A bit outside the District but it is worth a trip to check out the Al Pastor de Chorizo (spicy sausage) and Carne Asada (steak) again all prepared with onion and coriander.
TACO BAR ($)
www.tacobarwashingtonian.com Located on Fields Road, this place offers some of the best quality tacos and tortas (which are another staple of Mexican street food). Make sure you try the tacos de suadero (a type of beef), de chorizo or, if you really want to sound like an expert, ask for Campechanos (A style of taco in which several meats, usually beef and pork (a chicharrón, longaniza, etc.), are combined to delicious effect). For the more adventurous among you give the lengua (tongue) a try!
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MYMANIERA.COM | MANIERA DISTRICT | 9
MANI STYLE
BELLBOTTOMS, FLARES
and psychadelics BY MAKEDA JOHN
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d
ust off your bell bottoms and boot cut flares, the 70’s are back! I must say the 70’s are my personal favorite decade for fashion. They cemented boho-chic and hippie power, righteous eye and mind boggling prints galore, and of course the punk era. To get you ready for the revival we at MANIERA DISTRICT have a few do’s and don’t’s for bringing back the funk and disco fever to your wardrobe this summer. We’re going to break down three basic looks for you;
BOHO-CHIC Bohemian or boho-chic is all about effortless comfort, which is ideal for those long hot summer days. Loose fitting dresses and skirts are a staple for pulling off this look. A half sleeve shift dress with a radical print is a great option for daytime boho-glam along with strappy swing dresses and cami dresses. The 70’s were known for their love of short shorts and the mini skirt, so be brave and get your legs out, free the skin! Evening wear for a bohemian queen is where the maxis really come in to their own. Choose from maxi skirts, maxi dresses and the versatile kimono. They all epitomise the flowing ‘one with nature’ theme this style encapsulates. If you go for a print, be as bold as you dare, psych up the psychedelics. The 70’s were all about the playful use of color. Or if you prefer to keep it simple, go for a lace maxi dress; lace is an easy-to-wear option for those who love texture and prints but like to keep it subtle.
PRINTS Although bold psychedelic prints are one of the first things that come to mind when we conjure up the colors of the 70’s, there are other options. If looking like a walking optical illusion is a bridge too far then tone it down to create a more contemporary look by mixing a bold print top with a plain skirt or jeans. Or try Laura Ashley type romantic florals to create a softer more feminine alternative. 70’s fashion was also heavily influenced by Indian print patterns, also predominantly floral but with an eclectic and vibrant mix of colours. These prints look fabulous on a wrap-around maxi skirt teamed with a simple white crop top vest, or crochet bralet. Or take the current fringe trend onboard and team a polo neck t-shirt with some high waisted ‘mom’ jeans and add a suede fringe jacket for some added 70’s flare. If you want to show some leg swap the high-waisted jeans for a button-up denim mini skirt. Pair with some chunky platforms to complete the ensemble.
PUNK FUNK Although often associated with the 1980’s, the late 1970’s gave birth to punk and it would be a fashion heresy to fail to pay homage to punk style. My favorite element of punk fashion has to be the jewelry. It is quirky, bulky, predominantly silver and can be applied in layers. I am not referring to the iconic studded dog collars, but rather the overabundance of rings, earrings and facial jewelry. Full finger rings punk up an outfit instantly, and look fabulous coupled with a silver ear stud and cuff earring (snake and dragon designs are my go-to’s) for an instantly edgy look. If you love a bit of facial jewelry why not try a faux nose piercing. Both septum and nostril faux rings are available in a wide variety of different styles and offer a quick and painless outré dimension to any outfit. And when you go for that job interview they can be removed and reapplied whenever you feel like it. You dont need to do any special searches to find jewelry like this, Ebay is a fantastic site for getting value for money fashion jewelry so get searching!
The 70’s are undeniably one of the most enjoyable and fun decades to dress for. With a diverse range of fashion options you are spoilt for choice. Whatever style you choose to incorporate into your summer wardrobe just have fun with it. Be bold, be daring and be confident!
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with without OR
h
BY JON LAMOREAUX
ave you heard that U2 recently launched their Songs of Innocence and Experience World Tour? What am I saying, of course you have. Everyone knows every move U2 ever makes. It’s a fortunate (or an unfortunate) byproduct of being The Biggest Band In The World (capitals are necessary when discussing an official title, as opposed to someone’s personal opinion). It’s important world news, like wars, famines, and gender transitioning.
MUSIC
U2 have had a rough last few years from an artistic standpoint, while also having made more money than most of the small countries Bono fights so hard to bring aid to. Their last album, No Line On The Horizon, back in 2009, took many years to produce and endured many false starts before limping to an underwhelming release, thus becoming their lowest seller in many moons. However, the adjoining 360° Tour is the most successful in history, grossing over $730 million.
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In the ensuing years, the boys took serious stock of their place in the current musical landscape, as any CEO of a big business with quotas to meet would do in this situation. Surely, they must have asked themselves what many listeners have been asking for the last 20 years - does U2 even matter anymore? From there they reached down into their Guinness-soaked souls for inspiration and what they came back with were their childhood influences. No Line was a failed attempt at artistic adventure with an eye toward the future. 2014’s Songs of Innocence is a decided look back, not a common practice for U2, except for maybe the dustbowl reverence of 1988’s Rattle and Hum. While any longstanding fan of U2 could have guessed what bands turned them on in the beginning (Kraftwerk, Simple Minds, The Stranglers, etc), Bono, The Edge, Larry Mullen Jr. and Adam Clayton finally decided to produce an entire album paying homage to those artists, and adolescence in general. The sweetness of hearing a song that changes the rest of your life (“The Miracle (of Joey Ramone)”), the loss of a parent (“Iris (Hold Me Close)”), reflections from the Dublin streets you grew up on (“Cedarwood Road”) and many others are put to strong melodies with a hint of post-punk angularity. Songs of Innocence is an excellent rock album. Unfortunately, the screaming din surrounding it caused few to give it much of a shot. It all started about nine months before its release when what was meant to be the Danger Mouse produced first single, “Invisible”, flopped out of the gate. Who can forget their grand, rooftop performance of the track on the opening night of
U2 in concert in the Amsterdam Arena, July 13, 2005 in Amsterdam, Netherlands Songs of Innocence allbum image courtesy of Interscope Records.
The Tonight Show with Jimmy Fallon. “Invisible” is mysteriously absent from the released version of Songs of Innocence, as if the band would prefer to ignore it ever happened, which is an odd move for a band with a fan base so huge, most of whom will eat up just about anything U2 produces. Granted, “Invisible’s” bouncy groove would sound out of place compared to Innocence’s rugged electricity, which is probably why it was relegated to a B side on the deluxe release, but fans would rather it was there than not.
Achtung Baby album image courtesy of Island Records.
The story goes that more tweaking took place after “Invisible’s” chilly reception. How does The Biggest Band In The World stave off further rejection? The teflon U2 brand simply can’t afford to take more hits like they have the last few years. And then Apple came to the rescue with a plan (referred to by some as “The Miracle”) and $100 million dollars. Songs of Innocence was born and you owned it, whether you wanted it or not. Much ink has been spilled over the reckless, intrusive, big-brother-is-watching emergence of the Innocence album. According to Bono, he understood that the album would hang in the cloud for anyone who wanted it to go get it easily. Apple actually installing the album in your iTunes freely was a bridge too far, and not part of the plan. All hell broke loose. People practically rioted, governments nearly collapsed, and iTunes users were most definitely
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offended. To this I say - get over yourself.
U2 Songs of Innocence image courtesy of Apple iTunes.
This whole argument that a large corporation (Apple) shouldn’t be allowed to immorally just stick customers with content they didn’t order whether they want it or not is a weak one in this case. So, you got a free U2 album? Do you not know where the delete button is? Does the concept of free offend your sensibilities? Do you not have other music in your iTunes you can listen to? Don’t you probably already have some U2 in there? Is it causing a virus that’s eating the rest of your music? Of course not. Let’s face it, people just want to hate U2. Katy Perry doing the same thing wouldn’t have elicited this much hysteria. Apple could have said “all our iTunes users will receive a hot new free song (or album) every week that we think you’ll like” and had the disturbance welcomed with open arms, even praised. “How cool is Apple that every week they send me new music for free!” the chants would ring. Instead, because U2 have built themselves up as The Biggest Band In The World, they get punched in the nuts for it. It’s really just blind bigotry on the listener’s side. In this culture of Comments Section critics, the haters just wanna hate. So, how did U2 get here? Any band that ascends to their heights with as much pointed determination will attract dissenters like barnacle on a boat. That’s
MYMANIERA.COM | MANIERA DISTRICT | 15
A postage stamp from Rwanda of the band ‘U2’, circa 2009. 16 | MANIERA DISTRICT | MYMANIERA.COM
to be expected. No band can please everyone, no matter how hard Bono tries. But, it didn’t used to be this bad. Their first foray into shattering expectations (and overcoming writer’s block), 1991’s Achtung Baby, was met with universal acclaim. The album was a masterpiece, the ZOO TV tour a landmark, the singles iconic. Nobody hates that period, not even casual U2 fans. It’s probably the release of 1997’s Pop and the PopMart tour that planted seeds of doubt about the band’s motivations. Where once was Springsteen levels of earnest patriotism was now the cynical heart of consumerism’s worst tendencies. What wasn’t completely realized is that they were telling the joke, not the butts of it. Emotional grandiosity had always been U2’s stock in trade. Literal, empty grandiosity wasn’t their bag and suddenly skepticism took root in the hearts and minds of listeners. Truthfully, they were trendsetters when you look back on it. They sold cynicism about 10 years before the rest of the world generally calcified on its own. Pop may not be essential, but it’s a decent little album. The good songs are really really good, while the bad are utterly forgettable. Here’s an idea, keep what you like and delete the rest. While the spectacle of Pop is eating itself alive, Bono is taking on the world’s biggest problems. His four biggest charity endeavors, ONE Campaign, DATA, (RED), and EDUN have provided around a billion dollars to fight the AIDS epidemic in Africa. He has been nominated for the Nobel Peace Prize no less than three times. In a recent statement, he declared that AIDS being passed from mother to baby in the womb will be eradicated in 10 years if they stay on track. And yet, he is vilified for this work by sarcastic couch potatoes who think he should shut up and sing the hits. In fact, it’s this tireless charity work that seems to get under the skin of people the most. Where does this vitriol come from? What behaviors do people want the rich and famous to exhibit? Who would they rather be on the front lines fighting these fights? A lobbyist? A politician? A salaried employee of a major corporation with an agenda and a bottom line to consider? Why are we annoyed when famous people leverage that fame to fight for good causes? Maybe it’s charity fatigue. But, how can we fault people for doing the work we don’t (or won’t) do? It’s a Kardashian world and we’re all struggling through it. Propaganda of any sort just joins the rest of life’s noise creating a toxic cacophony most of us just want to run away from. And there is A LOT of noise today. But, U2 don’t play that game. They put their money and power where Bono’s mouth is. In a world of phonies and strawman celebrities, if anything we should be glad there are artists out there fighting the good fight. No-one has to listen. Noone has to like them. You don’t have to see them in concert this year and you can freely delete the album they gave you. But, we should give them the respect they’ve earned. They try very hard to make their fans happy and our world a better place (versus most celebrities who make themselves happy and their own world’s better).
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So, the answer to the question, “does U2 even matter anymore?” is Yes. Maybe more than ever.
MYMANIERA.COM | MANIERA DISTRICT | 17
DISTRICT STAR
t
here is definitely something in the DC water when it comes to crime fiction. Not satisfied with best selling crime writers such as Tom Clancey and George Pelecanos living in the District, DC also boasts Allison Leotta, ex federal prosecutor and author of a series of four novels based on her fictional DC sex-crimes prosecutor, Anna Curtis. From the outset her books received rave reviews. Her first novel Law of Attraction earned a starred review in Library Journal and her follow up Discretion was named one of the Top Ten Books of 2012 by Strand Magazine and Best Suspense Novel of 2012 by Romance
BY JULIET TE LORD
IT’S A
cr ime
Reviews Today. The third book in the series Speak of the Devil, was named a Best Book of 2013 by Suspense Magazine.
It is telling that Leotta occupied the same role as her main female protagonist. Both work as prosecutors on harrowing cases of child abuse, domestic violence and sex-crimes. This firsthand experience leads to an attention to detail and a level of accuracy that makes the novels especially engaging—and all the more chilling. There is something particularly riveting about a book set in your home city. You recognise the locations and maybe even the character types; although there are definitely plenty of the characters in Leotta’s books that you really would not want to be too familiar with! Moreover this is not just the tourist DC of national monuments and the seat of Government. You get mentions of things familiar to residents of the District, such as the local jail and Ben’s Chili Bowl!
So, if the idea of a car chase down Independence Avenue gets your juices flowing, then I recommend that you pick up a copy of Leotta’s latest novel A Good Killing. This fourth book in the Anna Curtis series sees the heroine make her way back to her hometown on the outskirts of Detroit to support her sister who has been wrongfully accused of the murder of their old high school coach. As her investigations develop she discovers that the town is covering up a number of disturbing secrets and that uncovering the truth can be a dangerous game. Leotta’s books are not only great suspense novels. They are sexy too. This is a great book to pack in your holiday suitcase or read while you are stuck on the Metro on your way to work in temperatures of 90 degrees plus!
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TIM COBURN
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A Good Killing is available from most good book stores or you can order a copy online from the following: http://www.amazon.com/ dp/1476760993/ref=cm_sw_su_dp http://www.barnesandnoble. com/w/a-good-killingallison-leotta/1119883992?e an=9781476760995 http://www.booksamillion.com/p/ Good-Killing/Allison-Leotta/978147 6760995?id=5989691749312
SCI-FI
INFINITE POSSIBILITIES of the future BY JULIETTE LORD
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W
ho can fail to be excited about the prospect of a Museum of Science Fiction (MOSF) opening in DC? The ultimate aim to open a permanent institution is sadly a few years in the future, but for those of us who simply cannot wait for our Sci-Fi fix the amazing volunteer based team behind this exciting project have a solution. From July 7 and running throughout the summer until October, the Reagan National Airport plays host to The Future of Travel exhibit which explores the possibility of interplanetary travel from a science fiction perspective. The inspiration behind the exhibit is Stanley Kubrick’s 1968 classic film 2001: A Space Odyssey and it is the wonderful blend of both retrospective and futuristic, and art and technology that makes this exhibit truly unique. Kubrick’s film was chosen because of his obsessive aim for accuracy. He employed aerospace specialists on the film to ensure that it was technically authentic. Sadly however it has been reported that, in order to prevent the props from the film being reused, Kubrick destroyed nearly all of them. The Aries 1B Translunar Space Shuttle was one of the few surviving models and this was purchased earlier this year by The Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences in Beverly Hills for the princely sum of $344,000. Undaunted, the MOSF team set about recreating an accurate 1:35 scale model of the iconic Orion III, the Pan American World Airways operated passenger spaceplane from the film. The model takes pride of place at the exhibit. There is also a free smartphone app available to visitors which supplies exhibition information, an interstellar passport, and their own “boarding pass to the future.” The mobile app has an “Expedia-style” PlanYour-Visit section to generate a simulated boarding pass that can be emailed to the ‘traveler’. You can plan your trip to the Moon, Alpha Centauri or Mars from the comfort of your armchair!
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ABOVE: The Unobtainable Kiss HERE: Tree of Life RIGHT: Spring Will Come Again
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One of the items from the project of which I am really jealous is the ‘2001 space pen’. The pen is inspired by the iconic scene in “2001: A Space Odyssey” when the Orion docks with the space station while Blue Danube plays in the background. At the time of the film’s release audiences were mesmerized by how Dr. Floyd’s pen seemed to float in midair, and despite the effect being achieved without any computer-generated imagery, the effect remains convincing to this day. The Parker Pen Company came up with the design after Stanley Kubrick asked them to create a product that they may expect have on the market in the year 2001 (33 years after the film was made). The Museum’s design team has faithfully recreated that pen as one of the rewards for the backers of their crowdfund campaign. Fifteen years after the movie was set, the space pen has finally become a reality. The wonderful mix of past and future is again evident in the beautiful series of retro-futuristic travel posters by Steve Thomas. Echoing the travel posters of the 1940s and 1950s, they offer potential space travelers the best the solar system has to offer! Space tourists are invited to try rock climbing on Saturn, skiing on Pluto (“the small planet big on fun”!), a visit to the Solar Mobile Grand Prix on Mercury or perhaps a zip line tour of the asteroid belt! For fashion aficionados a high quality replica of the space hostess costume originally seen in 2001: A Space Odyssey is on display at the exhibit. A fabulous example of distinctive 1960s chic, the outfit was made by the University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill graduate costume production program in conjunction with the MOSF model construction team. As an intermediate stage between the The Future of Travel exhibit and the permanent Museum of Science Fiction, a Preview Museum located in DC is planned to open in early 2016. The architectural design is inspired by the winning entry from an international architectural design competition which MOSF held last year. The Preview Museum is intended to be a testbed for different kinds of exhibits, concepts and educational programming that will guide the design for the final, permanent museum. The plan is to complete the full-scale facility within five years of the opening of the Preview
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Travel Posters: Steve Thomas Courtesy of Museum of Science Fiction Aircraft model photos: Tony Walsh/ScottModels Space hostess uniforms: Courtesy of Museum of Science Fiction 2001: A Space Odyssey(1968): Courtesy of Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer
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Museum. And this isn’t just a place for hardcore sci-fi nerds. The Museum aims to have something for everyone. Museum External Relations manager Nico Pandi tells me the aim is a universal appeal: “...from lifelong, devoted fans of science fiction to those who don’t know Star Trek from Star Wars. Hardcore fans of the genre will be able to see and interact with a wide range of exhibit pieces that they may recognize from both the most famous and iconic examples of the genre to more esoteric, niche ones. Visitors without any background in science fiction will still be able to enjoy a visitor experience unlike any other as the Ambient Intelligence (amb-i) technology built into the Museum creates an individualized itinerary that enhances their tours with information and guidance customized specifically to them.” MANIERA DISTRICT readers who wish to support the Museum are encouraged to consider Museum membership, the different levels of which can be seen at: http://www.museumofsciencefiction.org/join And the MOSF project is always looking for volunteers from a variety of backgrounds who share a love of science fiction. Anyone interested can fill out the web contact form at: http://www.museumofsciencefiction.org/contact/ Pandi sums up the Museums appeal when he tells me:
“ While most museums show humankind’s past, only at the Museum of Science Fiction can you catch a glimpse into the infinite possibilities of our future.”
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COOL STUFF
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BY JULIETTE LORD
when fashion & technology COLLIDE
ocated at the intersection of technology and fashion the ‘Fall’ dress by Turkish born designer Birce Ozkan is an interactive garment that responds to light. As the level of light diminishes the dress magically starts to shed its leaves.
This incredible dress is remarkably part of Ozkan’s final graduation thesis project for Parsons the New school for Design (New York). Her work focuses on the creation of wearable technology, and her inspiration comes from nature and the natural environment. The result is a combination of both function and performative art. Rather than being an inert object, Ozkan’s designs bring another dimension to fashion and are she says, “kinetic, dynamic and almost living expression of our unique experience with nature.” ‘Fall’ is inspired directly by defoliation, the process whereby trees naturally lose their leaves in Autumn. As the days shorten and the temperature drops, trees need to preserve energy to survive the oncoming winter months. They activate ‘scissor cells’ that split and force the leaves out of place, destabilizing them and making them fall. Ozkan explains how this natural process influenced her design: “My thesis project was evolved around the questions What if…
... when the temperature got hot suddenly, our clothes would star t to break apar t in response? ... they had the skill to behave depending on the surrounding conditions? ... garments had the ability to sense the environment just like living organisms? ” Using a color palette of oranges and browns, mirroring the hues of autumn foliage, the dress is made up of a myriad of individual muslin leaves. Each leaf is attached to a steel wire using melted wax.These steel wires are held within transparent tubes which in turn are attached to four servo monitors that are embedded in the back of the garment. When there is less light, the servos speed up and pull on the steel wire forcing the leaf to hit the tube and break the wax seal. The leaves detach and fall to the ground.Your modesty is assured however by the cotton fabric base of the dress! Ozkan believes that we will see more interactive and responsive fashion pieces on the catwalk in the near future. She says that she would love to see her interactive clothing worn on stage by the likes of Katy Perry and Lady Gaga.
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FILM
IRISHAMERICAN
cinema BY ROBERT HENSLEY KING
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s people, we live in a continuum. Put simply, our past and future are important to understanding our present. Stories – both personal and cultural - are important to our traditions and identities. They help us understand ourselves in relation to our world. From its earliest days, cinema has embraced this and produced films that tell stories about human hopes and fears. Many people seek excitement and a better life, and in this article I take a look at those who move in search of adventure and opportunities, a story as pertinent today as it ever was. I begin with a story about a boxer going “home” to Ireland in The Quiet Man (1952) and then move on to discuss how locational films shot in Ireland during the 1910s captured the hopes and concerns of a migrant people. The Quiet Man contrasts starkly with the more familiar and iconic Western imagery of John Wayne’s creative collaborations with John Ford. Here, the vast expanse of desert and gritty pioneer towns are traded in for green pastoral images as Sean Thornton (John Wayne) returns home. The result is a beautiful film that draws on a wealth of narrative traditions to present a sensitive reflection of humanity. As this article shows, the creative link between Ireland and the USA is almost as old as cinema itself. Picture, if you will, John Wayne arriving on a horse-and-cart in rural Ireland. This important scene in The Quiet Man is inspired by – if not borrowed from – the first American film to be shot in a location outside of the USA. In 1910, the Kalem Company sent Sidney Olcott with a cast and a crew to Beaufort in Ireland, where he directed A Lad from Old Ireland for the New York based film studio. At that time location shooting was the norm, and the studio bosses at the Kalem Company recognized the potential of shooting a film in Ireland. The beautiful countryside and the visual nature of Irish storytelling contributed to successful films, which appealed to Irish immigrants in particular. A Lad from Old Ireland follows the fortunes of a man who found success in New York City only to learn that his beloved faced eviction from her home back in Ireland. The narrative reflected the concerns of those who found success in the USA but nonetheless worried about their loved ones at home. Moreover, it referenced the feudal landownership rules of the British Empire, which prevented the Irish from owning property. This crisis drives the lad back to his native land, where he is able to use his new wealth to save the day and bring his girl to share in his new life.
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The Quiet Man (1952) John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara. Courtesy of Republic Pictures A publicity still for The Colleen Bawn. Courtesy of the Irish Film Archive O’Kalem publicity still of Gene Gauntier from the Irish Film Archive
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This fusion of political and human tensions is typical of many of the Kalem films shot on location in Ireland during the early- to mid-1910s. The narratives of these movies draw on ideas of Irish heroism to present protagonists who succeed in the face of adversity. This had an obvious appeal for those seeking (and continuing to make) a new life in the USA. The same spirit of Irish individualism infused early and subsequent American cinema to offer compelling character tropes. This is evident throughout the history of American narrative film: from the good guys as detectives to the complex yet villainous Jimmy Conway (Robert De Niro) in GoodFellas (1990), the spirit of the individual who perseveres is well known. An interesting account of how this spirit informed the Kalem productions is evident in the serialized memoirs of Gene Gauntier, a screenwriter and an actor who was pivotal to the film’s success. Gauntier recorded her thoughts on how delighted the local people were to help with the production: both by providing physical labor and through cameo appearances to lend authenticity. By night the tavern tales helped shape Gauntier and Olcott’s vision on how to transliterate Irish storytelling to the silver screen. A visiting priest, however, threw the creative relationship with the locals into crisis when he preached a sermon about the evils of the Kalem Company exploiting the local people. It is hard to overestimate the power of the pulpit in that period of Irish history, and the churchgoers felt they couldn’t continue in their involvement. Help came from the local bishop who was troubled to hear news of the regrettable sermon: he overruled the priest, demanded an apology, and urged the faithful to continue in their creative input. This trans-Atlantic collaboration resulted in films that were well received in America. While we often think
of clever marketing tactics beginning in the 1920s, Kalem shows otherwise. Not only did the films of old Ireland fuse visual memories with questions of Irish identities, they also called on the audience to be engaged. One of Kalem’s most audacious film productions was an adaptation of Dion Boucicault’s The Colleen Bawn (1911). The story of the play (also performed as an opera) is rather complex for a silent film. The films of the early 1910s tended to be short (often just ten minutes) and relied on a very visual form of storytelling. The Colleen Bawn, however, was a three-reel film that lasted approximately forty-five minutes, depending on the frame rate. In spite of the film’s extensive use of intertitle cards to help drive the narrative, it nonetheless required an audience familiarity with the well-known Irish story – most likely an Irish audience. The studio also deepened the audience’s engagement with the film by arranging for soil imported from Ireland to be sprinkled at the entrances to the nickelodeons. This meant that people coming to see The Colleen Bawn literally had to cross Irish earth to enter the theater. Today, of course, one does not have to be Irish to enjoy this fascinating period of film history. Some of the surviving films have been restored and are available online through a project at Trinity College Dublin in Ireland (http://www.tcd.ie/irishfilm/ silent/). Even in black and white, these films capture something of the beauty of rural Ireland. Likewise, they are ingenious in their adaptation of Irish storytelling. However, their significance does not end there. Instead, the fusion of the old and new worlds reflects both the hopes and anxieties of immigrants seeking new opportunities. This human concern of leaving old for new is important to many national cinemas, not least American.
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RIGHT: The historic Quiet Man Bridge in County Galway, Ireland, featured in the 1950s film, The Quiet Man. MYMANIERA.COM | MANIERA DISTRICT | 31
COVER STORY
TRAVERSING
the fantasy BY JULIETTE LORD
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dam Martinakis produces remarkable computer-generated visual artwork with an other-wordly quality. Born in Luba, Poland in 1972 and of mixed Polish and Greek descent, Marinakis has been exhibiting across Europe since 2005. Most recently he held a solo exhibition entitled “Metaverse”,
at the Galleri Oxholm, Copenhagen, Denmark. I caught up with him on his return to talk about his work. I ask him how he manages to combine this ‘otherness’ to his art with a very personal resonance, which impacts with the viewer on a highly emotional level. He explains: “I’m trying to find the common ground between the personal and the universal truth. This can be only achieved, in my opinion, if you try to look at things from a different, a distant level. Distant, not only from yourself but also from your time and your place. This is also at the same time a combination of reality and fantasy. I believe, everybody in his own special way crosses the
HERE: Golden Boy TOP RIGHT: Future Love
bridge between the personal and the universal, by nature, that is why many people find my work familiar.”
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To create the intricate figures that make up much of his oeuvre he employs a combination of 3D software. The basic structure of the models are made using the 3d modelling, animation and rendering design software 3ds Max. To produce more detail this is supplemented with digital painting and sculpting software such as Mudbox or Zbrush, enabling him to paint and texture the mesh figures. These mesh figures are incredibly ‘human’ despite many of them being literally featureless. The spatial positioning of the ‘bodies’ and the sculptural forms which they create, manage to not only tell a distinct narrative but invoke a poignancy and fragility indicative of the human condition. They are simultaneously futuristic and contemporary. Although Martinakis sometimes starts off with a very definite image in mind, more often the piece takes on a life of its own, evolving as it is created. Martinakis tells me: “In most of the artworks the piece itself is guiding you to an unknown direction. This can be applied to the color scheme but also to all the other elements of the creation.”
HERE: Shifted II TOP RIGHT: Cassandra Complex
“I believe that creating ar t is traveling to the depths of existence.” MYMANIERA.COM | MANIERA DISTRICT | 35
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And while Martinakis cites the art movements of the early 20th century as major influences in both his philosophical and visual approach to creativity, he says that:
“I’m always quite open for any new inspirations. I don’t exclude the possibility to change to a different direction if I feel to do so, in the future.” He has another exhibition planned for the Fall 2015 in Ibiza (Spain) but after that he wants to return to producing a new line of artworks rather than spending his time HERE: Crystal Nightmare TOP RIGHT: The Nature of the Golden Age
exhibiting. I for one cannot wait to see what he produces next.
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For more information on Adam Martinakis check out his website: http://martinakis.com And his blog: http://adamakis.blogspot.co.uk MYMANIERA.COM | MANIERA DISTRICT | 37
HEALTH & BEAUTY
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ummer is when your skin comes out to play, and when it is socially acceptable to walk around semi-naked, and share with the world what your mama’ gave ya’. Whether you are donning bikinis, short shorts, or those oh-so-fashionable micro-mini skirts, it is your skin that will be doing all the talking. So that means you want your skin looking in tip-top condition. Let’s face it; after all those winter months of snuggling up in warm cardigans, cosy jumpers and thick opaque tights, you may well have neglected your skin, leaving it looking less than perfect. If this sounds like you then we here at MANIERA DISTRICT could be your skin saviors. We have scoured stores up and down the country to find you some of the best products to get your skin looking and feeling fresher and softer than a newborn’s peachy bottom!
Let us begin with the basics. THE SHOWER SCRUB.
It is essential that you exfoliate your skin once or twice a week. This helps to remove dead skin cells and will leave you with soft and supple skin. However, do not attempt to exfoliate if you have sunburned or damaged skin, you will cause further damage and it hurts! To begin with, exfoliate your skin whilst it is still dry with a loofah/ body brush or exfoliating gloves as this helps to loosen the dead skin. Now it is time to jump in the shower. Once your skin is wet use your loofah or exfoliating gloves to rub your exfoliating cleanser of choice all over your body. Remember a little goes a long way so use small amounts and top up when the exfoliate has disintegrated. Scrub in a circular motion as this will help to loosen and remove the dead skin cells. Choosing a great cleansing exfoliator is tricky as they all make very similar claims but here are two of our favorites: LUSH ‘Angels on Bare Skin’ This is their world-wide best seller* for a reason, with strong aromas of Lavender Oil and Rose Absolute you’ll be smelling heavenly all day. Not only that, but all the ingredients are natural with no synthetic nasties, so you know your skin is being cared for thoroughly. In fact it is so gentle you can even use it on your face!
BODY SHOP ‘Cocoa Butter Cream Body Scrub’ Although it is not officially Body Shop’s best seller, it ought to be. It is a two in one, as it contains real cocoa butter which helps to add back the moisture taken from skin when exfoliating. Body Shop boasts that this scrub helps with skin microcirculation which, it claims, helps prevent and reverse
premature ageing of the skin by increasing nourishment of the skin cells and speeding up their detoxification.
MOISTURIZING. It is important when trying to maintain healthy glowing skin to choose the right moisturizer as it is the basis to achieving the softer skin you are aiming for. You don’t however want to look overly shiny and risk looking like you’ve been lubed up with petroleum jelly! Here are our hot picks for moisturizing bliss; Palmers - ‘Cocoa Butter Formula’ Undoubtedly my goto daily moisturizing cream. It has a wonderful vanilla scent that lasts all day and it leaves your skin noticeably soft. Not only that but it is also available in a self- tanning version, ‘Palmers Natural Bronze Gradual Tanner’ which is perfect if you want instant tan without having to bare your pale bits. You can find this product in all major drug stores. Soap & Glory ‘Righteous Butter’ A lovely body butter filled with healing aloe vera and shea butter that does what it says on the tin and will have you asking yourself if indeed you are wearing velvet. Body Shop - If you don’t know about the Body Shop’s body butter range you must have been living under a rock! They all smell seriously good and come in a variety of different scents. From florals, through nuts to zingy citrus, you are certain to find one to suit you. My personal favorite is the ‘Pink Grapefruit Body Butter’ it smells just like starburst! Mmmm Starburst!
TIP-TOP-TOES. Summer means sandals, and sandals mean your feet are on show. Far too often I see women with crimi-feet layered with hard skin and it just simply does not have to be this way. A pumice stone will turn your
beast feet into the beauty you know they can be. Simply soak your feet for a good 3-5 minutes in warm soapy water, wet the pumice stone and get to scrubbing. Use circular motions with medium pressure. Add your moisturizer to the rubbed areas, and it is as simple as that! Repeat daily if necessary but take care not to cause any soreness. For a mega moisturizer treat, slather your tootsies with moisturizer before you go to bed, pop on some cotton socks and wake up to gloriously beautiful feet!
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LUSH 3066 M Street NW Washington, DC 20007 http://www.lushusa.com/ SOAP AND GLORY: Available from: SEPHORA GEORGETOWN 3065 M St. NW Washington, DC 20007 http://www.soapandglory.com/us/ BODY SHOP Union Station D.C. 50 Massachusettes Avenue, NE Washington 20002 Fashion Center at Pentagon City 1100 South Hayes, Room Y-8 Arlington 22202 http://www.thebodyshop-usa.com/
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FASHION
CROSS
pollination BY JULIETTE LORD
w
e live in a global village with a wealth of cultural influences enriching our lives and our creativity. The cross-pollination collection by Holly Jayne Smith celebrates this wealth of connections with a rich fusion of modernity and tradition. Inspired by a recent trip to Morocco, the collection manages to combine a myriad of different styles to produce a coherent and very wearable range of outfits. Smith says that: “During my time in Morocco, my most interesting and inspiring observation was the friction between traditional and contemporary life. There’s a strong, almost unbreakable sense of culture and tradition but there’s also the influence of modern globalization and Western ideals, and that creates a tension between the two. This was my concept and way of thinking behind the collection”
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The pieces are heavily influenced by men’s street style; polo tops, ‘popper’ pants and my favorite... huge bat wing sleeves. The collection also manages to pull off a clever combination of almost sportswear like structures combined with a loose fitted tailoring style which makes the clothes simultaneously elegant and comfortable. During her time in Morocco, Smith commissioned a local artisan from the city of Fez to construct 120 large golden charms that she then stitched into her designs. Sourcing her fabric in Morocco was a learning experience. Most cloth in Morocco is sold in lengths of 2.5 meters which is the appropriate length to make a traditional outfit. Smith decided to reflect this by buying smaller lengths of cloth than she would normally and creating a ‘patchwork’ effect of different fabrics. The result is a lively and vibrant color palette of pink, green and a delicious pale orange.
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Holly Jayne Smith is a young British fashion designer who recently graduated from Birmingham City University but who is already making waves in the industry. She was selected as one of only twenty five students to showcase at the Graduate Fashion Week (London UK) last year -  one of the world’s leading events celebrating the creativity of students and graduates within fashion. Stella McCartney, Giles Deacon, Matthew Williamson and Julien Macdonald have all passed through their doors! She showcased at Fashion Scout during London Fashion Week earlier this year as part of the Emerging Designers Exhibition.
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All fashion collection photos by Stoney Darkstone Headshot of designer courtesy of Holly Jayne Smith
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SUMMER 2015 VOL. 1 ISSUE 3
3D fantasy ar tist ADAM MARTINAKIS