Traverse August 2019

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STARRY SUMMER NIGHTS! BEST SPOTS TO STARGAZE UP NORTH EASY, IRRESISTIBLE HOBO PIES! • MUST-TRY FIZZY DRINKS

PLUS:

FILMGOER Your Guide to the 2019 Traverse City Film Festival

HAPPY 100TH, STATE PARKS!

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Contents august | features

Discover more about Up North, people, places, food and events.

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42 | 100 YEARS OF HAPPY CAMPERS

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If you’ve ever toasted a marshmallow under a starry Michigan sky at a state park we know you’ll be joining us in a joyous chorus of Happy Birthday to our state’s treasures.

50 | OUR GREAT LAKES GUARDIAN Meet Liz Kirkwood, the dynamo lawyer who leads the way protecting our most precious assets with the nonprofit For Love of Water (FLOW).

54 | GOOD SCOOP Traverse City’s happily-ever-after cow-to-cone story (good to the last lick, promise!).

60 | INTERLOCHEN DIARIES Join us as we sneak a peek (sshhhh!) in the journal of a genuinely talented, authentically angsty teenage camper at the famous arts camp in the 1990s.

64 | A FRESHWATER FAMILY Hang ten with the Skrockis—Empire’s first family of surfing—and their Sleeping Bear Surf and Kayak shop. PLUS | NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE (FOLLOWING PAGE 72)

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contents | departments

TOSKI TOSKI SANDS TOSKI SANDS SANDS

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39 9 | EDITOR’S NOTE

85 | DRINKS

13 | UP NORTH

Mammoth Distilling shakes up summer cocktails for you.

He’s a British soldier at Fort Michilimackinac, kitchen tools to make your corn gorging yummier, inspiration from the Sidewalk Chalk Fairy.

21 | THIS IS MYNORTH

ON THE COVER

39 | UP IN MICHIGAN

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88 | LOVE OF THE LAND

23 | AUGUST EVENTS

Starry, starry nights.

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Road biking the Little Traverse Wheelway.

Spotlight on Hickory Meadows— 116 acres of tranquility on Traverse City’s west side.

37 | TRAVEL

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87 | OUTDOORS

Hang with us online, on social and at MyNorth Tickets.

Summer is baked to perfection. Grab your slice and go!

World Famous Smoked Pork Loin, Bacon, Ham, Hot Dogs, Bratwurst, and Smoked Fish.

85

Sometimes there’s nothing like a good old hook and line to bring the catch in.

73 | DINING

The magical Kitch-iti-kipi Spring at Palms Book State Park, Manistique. Photo by Tyler Leipprandt of Michigan Sky Media [Tyler notes that the Michigan Department of Natural Resources has more information (and new restrictions on) the use of drones in Michigan’s State Parks.] FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA

Crunch at these garden-to-table establishments.

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81 | LOCAL TABLE

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Wake up for lemon-glazed ricotta pancakes from Small Batch of Harbor Springs.

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A MyNorth Media Publication PRESIDENT/EDITOR IN CHIEF EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL AND CONTENT EDITOR PROOFREADERS REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS

Deborah Wyatt Fellows Emily Tyra Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson Elizabeth Aseritis, Caroline Dahlquist Kim Schneider, Tim Tebeau, Andrew VanDrie Gail Snable Theresa Burau-Baehr Rachel Watson

WEB DIRECTOR

Jen Berigan

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Julie Parker

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

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MARKETING DIRECTOR

Erin Lutke

MARKETING COORDINATOR MYNORTH TICKETS MANAGER TICKETING COORDINATOR OFFICE MANAGER BOOKKEEPER

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Reprints Reprints available. Please call 231.941.8174.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly by Prism Publications Inc., 125 Park Street, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, 125 Park St, suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $27.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $4.50. Manuscripts must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. All rights reserved. Copyright 2019, Prism Publications Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

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Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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editor’s note

Our Parks, Our Land TEXT BY DEBORAH WYATT FELLOWS

By any measure, it is amazing that the Michigan state park system (Michigan State Park Commission) is celebrating 100 years. What forethought and commitment individuals showed who donated land to the state and state officials exhibited as they saved land and water to make them accessible for generations to come. It was 1919. Think of them making this a commitment through economic disasters and wars. Their work over the next 100 years has provided public lands, preserved for each of us so that no single person can prosper from their resources or deny any person or family access to its wonders. We jumped on celebrating this anniversary in Traverse as soon as we realized it was happening. And yet, even though I have been a devotee of Michigan’s state parks forever, I realized in reading about the system how little I really knew. Michigan’s park system includes 103 state parks and 140 state forest campgrounds, spanning thousands of acres of recreational land hosting a combined 17,554 campsites. I learned on four elementary school field trips with my kids, that the Mackinac Island State Park was the first created in 1895. (Mackinac Island is now operated under the Mackinac Island State Park Commission, not the Michigan State Park Commission.) The next park predates the creation of the state park system as well. Where is that one? Interlochen State Park, purchased in 1917 and transferred to the Michigan state park system after it was created in 1919. World War 1 had just ended. The first state park I ever remember visiting was Silver Lake State Park when I was nine or ten. As a family, we climbed the dunes at Silver Lake. When you ran down them, your legs and feet getting away from you, you

crashed into the cool waters of Lake Michigan. For my siblings and me, it was the ultimate. On our trips to Silver Lake, if we were lucky, my parents would take us on Mac Wood’s Dune Rides and we would squeal as we flew over sand hills and valleys as far as the eye could see. I was surprised to learn that Mac Wood’s Dune Rides, which started in 1930, is still a thing. I was surprised, given the fragility of the dunes that those activities are still available to families. So I investigated and found that the park is very ac-

For 100 years, individuals, elected officials and dedicated DNR staff have given all of us an incredible gift. tively managing all of it: Because that’s what we do in Michigan. Our Department of Natural Resources has been managing the state’s natural resources since the Michigan Legislature created the Department of Conservation and a Conservation Commission in 1922. Their mission statement: The Michigan Department of Natural Resources is committed to the conservation, protection, management, use and enjoyment of the state’s natural resources for current and future generations. Carrie E. Mears, the daughter of an early settler, was thinking of current and future generations when she gave a gift of 25.19 acres in 1920 with the sole purpose of creating a park. The DNR built upon her gift, bringing Silver Lake State Park to 3,085 acres,

with access to over three miles of Lake Michigan shoreline (including the Little Sable Point Light Station, a historic landmark) and one mile of shoreline on Silver Lake. It has 1,600 acres of the most accessible and visible dunes in the Midwest, which include both open dunes and acres of mature forest. The Silver Lake Dunes are the largest fresh water shifting sand dunes east of the Mississippi River. Carrie Mears. Most of us don’t even know her name and yet look what her vision and generosity led to. In the years since I was a child, I’ve skied Leelanau State Park, hiked Wilderness State Park, set up in rustic cabins in Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park, watched my kids race along Tahquamenon Falls State Park, and on and on. I’ve certainly not visited all 103 State Parks nor roamed their more than 300,000 acres. But I know my family were gratefully one of the 28 million visits made to Michigan’s state parks each year. One of those visits was on our annual camp/canoe trip. When my sister Pam and her husband, Dave, started this annual trip on the Manistee River, my third son was two. We have never missed a year, and that son is now 23. We camp in the rustic section and we use wagons to haul food and belongings in to the site. All my siblings go, friends started coming and we grew to be a group that is often 20 or more. The weekend is about time together and time spent completely outdoors. It is tent camping, pumping water from the well, and living around the fire. Pam and Dave put on outdoor feasts cooked over the open fire that are now legendary. It used to be that we had to get out to the campground early on Friday morning to get three sites together. Every year the campground was filled with young families, fishermen, 4

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When it comes to sourcing the best and freshest seasonal ingredients for our kitchen, we don’t have to go very far. We’re proud to offer a farm-to-table menu that features local Michigan farmers, bakers and artisans in our classic dishes and innovative seasonal offerings. From breakfast, lunch and dinner in our casually elegant restaurant, to our vibrant live music scene, handcrafted cocktails and a late night menu, there’s always a reason to stop by the Torch Lake Cafe. Conveniently located between the north end of Torch Lake and Lake Michigan.


editor’s note multi-generational groups like ours and, of course, kids out for a party weekend. Who wouldn’t want to be with friends and family in a stunning environment right on the river for a few dollars a night? As for the partiers, when we explained what we hoped for our weekend spent outdoors, under the stars, everybody pretty much honored the chance for that experience. But for the past several years, we have had our pick of sites. One year there was a lone fisherman, another, two young families. But otherwise, it has been just us. I can’t say we mind the quiet hush of the night or the still early mornings when Pam and Dave have the first coffee going. But we do worry. We worry that people might be leaving behind the experiences our state parks offer to immerse ourselves and our kids in acres of undeveloped nature. And that would be a shame. Here at Traverse, our mission statement includes a commitment to celebrating and protecting. This is rooted in the simple truth that people protect what they care about. If we get out into our natural resources and experience what that can mean in our lives, from joy to contemplation, from awe to healing, we will all be far more likely to step up if those resources are in danger. This land is open to everyone, no matter your income. Each of us can roam the woods unhindered by “No Trespassing” signs. Each of us can swim freely in the big lakes or inland lakes without being allocated to small swatches open to the public. Each of us can revel in the sunset views, picnic on the hillsides, camp for days on end and fish pristine streams. One hundred years ago, people in a very different world saw the value in providing this timeless gift. Gratitude is a worthy response. Experiencing it, an even greater honor to their vision and commitment. It’s a celebration. Get out there!

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Deborah Wyatt Fellows is founder and editor in chief of Traverse Magazine/MyNorth.com. debwf@traversemagazine.com. Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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Up North

PEOPLE | NATURE | ARTS | NOSTALGIA | BUZZ | WISDOM | CURIOSITIES

THE INTERPRETER Go back to the year 1776 at Fort Michilimackinac. Most days, Craig Wilson’s mornings are pretty typical. As the Curator of History for Mackinac State Historic Parks, getting dressed for work usually means putting on a button-down shirt and tie. But, one day a week, his uniform is that of an 18th-century British soldier: a bright red coat with white leather straps that form an X across his chest, a black tricorn hat and a short land pattern musket commonly known as “Brown Bess.” Mackinaw City’s Fort Michilimackinac dates back to 1715 when it was constructed by French soldiers. Today, the fort relies on interpreters like Wilson to help visitors engage with and understand its vast history. Originally from the Detroit area, Wilson’s background is in anthropology and archeology. While in undergrad and graduate school, he spent time working as a seasonal interpreter at both Fort Mackinac and Fort Michilimackinac.

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

Wilson’s morning routine includes starting fires for cooking demonstrations, setting up artillery pieces and running up the flag—the British flag. Being an interpreter may seem like an unusual vocational choice, but to Wilson, his job isn’t much different from yours. “This all boils down to being an effective communicator,” he says, “Every job has that to some degree. I get the opportunity to share what I find with all sorts of people from all over the world, and that’s fun.” Interpreters at Fort Michilimackinac portray the year 1776, which if you remember from history class is the year of America’s Declaration of Independence from Britain. While the early rumblings of the Revolutionary War sounded in4

VIDEO Meet Craig Wilson and tour the fort at MyNorth.com/FortMich

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up north | the interpreter

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“When you hear ‘interpreter,’ what do you think?” asks Wilson. “Someone who’s going to translate a foreign language. If you think of the past as a foreign country, then we are translators.” He translates the story of the fort and its inhabitants through his daily duties. He knows how to work an 18th-century blacksmith’s forge and how to properly load and fire the aforementioned Brown Bess and even an 18th-century field cannon. He’s learned these skills on the job, through the fort’s archeology program and from extensive research done in the off season—costumed interpreters at Fort Michilimackinac are not actors, they’re historians and scientists.

For his part, Wilson hopes to help incite curiosity in visitors so they might better engage with and understand the world around them. “There were French people here. There were British people here. There are still native people here. Those cultural legacies remain in the Straits of Mackinac. And it’s because of what happened here 250 years ago.” —Molly Korroch

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MyNorth.com

PHOTO BY ANDY WAKEMAN

“None of this is static. We are always adding things,” Wilson says. This season, a new program focuses on women’s roles at the fort, and a recently renovated room in the soldiers’ barracks allows visitors to touch and experience artifacts themselves. In another exhibit, visitors get to sample tea. “It’s a window into a much larger slice of British culture,” Wilson says. “We’re talking about politics, global economics, social structure, gender roles—all based on a little cup of tea.”


curiosities | up north

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people | up north

The Chalk Fairy We just can’t get enough of Susan Melton’s street art … and her over-flowing heart. Susan Melton (you’ve heard her on the Afternoon Drive on 102.9) started the Sidewalk Chalk Project in Cheboygan on Memorial Day in 2011 as a way to help her depression. Every day since then she’s been leaving messages of hope on sidewalks across Northern Michigan. Over the past eight years, Susan has gathered a following of almost 14,000 fans on Facebook and Instagram. Some have even started their own chalk projects across the nation, and even the world, spreading inspirational quotes in Pennsylvania, Florida, California, Tennessee, New Zealand and Spain. Susan’s favorite memory: “I got a Facebook message from a mom who said her young son was having a hard time at school. They were out walking and came across one of my sidewalks that said, ‘Because of you, I didn’t give up.’ Her son asked if God wrote that message for him. To know this boy saw my message and believed a little bit more in himself feels incredible. We just have to be kinder and more thoughtful toward each other.” —C.S.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF SUSAN MELTON

Follow Susan at facebook.com/SidewalkChalkProject.

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DOG DAYS OF SUMMER Caddis

Those golden moments we savor in August’s lush hush? Chances are our dogs do, too. Thanks to our loyal readers for sharing these happy snapshots of a day lived well.

COUNTER CLOCKWISE PHOTOS COURTESY OF ADAM BOELKINS // GAIL SNABLE // SHEA PETA JA

MISSION POINT

Alice

POWER ISLAND

Poppy PLATTE LAKE

TICK FOR TAT | WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT TICKS IN NORTHERN MICHIGAN Michigan has seen a steady increase in ticks and tick-related diseases over the past several years, according to Dr. Erin Shaw of Elk Rapids Animal Hospital. Take these preventive steps to avoid ticks April through October:

• • • •

Use a topical or oral tick and flea preventative on your pet. Keep grasses short as ticks can jump from long grasses onto your pet. Keep wood piles away from your home. Check your pet for ticks by rubbing a hand over their chest, neck and stomach.

Learn what to do if you find a tick on your pet and the symptoms of Lyme disease at MyNorth.com/ticks.—Meaghin Hornsby

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Established 1985

Celebrating 35 Years

ing Award-Winning of Baking & Sell Cookies!

Details of “Irises” by Katarzyna Korytowska l Original Oil Painting is 36x36

We Ship Everywhere! Order at ... tomsmomscookies.com

Twisted Fish Gallery has offered fine art for home or garden for over 18 years.

Featured on the Today Show, the Food Network and the Rachael Ray Show!

“When you’re here, you’re home.”

TOM’S MOM’S

COOKIES

®

Open Year Round 7 Days a Week Summer: 10am - 10pm Off Season: 10am - 6pm Mon-Sat 10am - 4pm Sun

267 S. Spring St. · Harbor Springs 231-526-6606

10443 S. Bayshore Dr. Elk Rapids, MI 231.264.0123 twistedfishgallery.com

PROUD TO BE A RED HOT BEST WINNER FOR 2019

SUMMER

LIKE

YOU

REMEMBER

I T.

Trade your iPad for the splash pad. Your laptop for the lap pool. And emails for exhales. Because memories aren’t made sitting behind a screen. They are made in the waterpark, taking a trip down the alpine slide, relaxing by the campfire, and on a long hike. It’s all happening this summer, at Crystal Mountain.

MAKE IT YOUR MOMENT. C R YS TA L M O U N TA I N .C O M | 8 6 6 . 3 4 8 . 9 0 7 0

42698 - Traverse - Crystal Lodging Ad.indd 1

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6/10/19 9:39 AM


MyNorth THIS IS

Instagram Facebook MyNorth Tickets MyNorth.com

HANG OUT WITH US BEYOND THE PAGES

GO ROCK HUNTING! You've heard of Petoskey stones... but what about pudding stones and fulgurites? Find out where you can uncover them at MyNorth.com/Rocks19 and download our free Rock Hunting Guide.

FEATURED EVENTS

8/1–8/24 THE YOUNG AMERICANS DINNER THEATRE Boyne Highlands Resort

8/2 A SPECIAL EVENING WITH TERRY BARBER

YOUR PETS U P N O R T H

#MyNorth

Ramsdell Regional Center for the Arts

Elk Rapids

8/10–8/24 DISNEY’S THE JUNGLE BOOK Old Town Playhouse

@TAYDERBROWN

8/3 SHORT’S FEST 2019

We want to see your furry friends' adventures. Follow and tag @MyNorthMedia for a chance to be featured in Traverse Magazine.

8/17 NORTHPORT WINE AND CRAFT BEVERAGE FESTIVAL

Boyne Highlands Resort For more information visit MyNorthTickets.com.

@DZWPHOTO

8/24 TASTE OF BOYNE HIGHLANDS

@TESSCROWLEYPHOTO

G. Marsten Dame Marina, Northport

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

AUG ’19

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DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION work best when Bay Area Contracting and BAC Design Group collaborate and forge their ideas together.

bac-tc.com | bacdesigntc.com


TIX

August

Look for this symbol in our events listings and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

EDI T ED B Y L I B BY STA LLMA N

THU

1

FRI

2

SAT

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

3

SUN

4

Festivals | Baroque on Beaver Island's 18th consecutive season celebrates classical music! The Papas and Sons perform tonight with the festival orchestra. MyNorthTickets.com

FRI

Music | A little bit of rock

SAT

Theater | Adapted from

9

Music | Don’t miss

internationally-acclaimed countertenor Terry Barber as he performs a special concert to benefit The Ramsdell Regional Center and Michigan Legacy Art Park. Manistee. MyNorthTickets.com

10

Sports | The Cherry Roubaix

Gran Fondo in Leelanau County is a race, ride and party all rolled into one big day of cycling. Choose your distance for epic climbs, rolling vineyards and great views of Lake Michigan. cherry-roubaix.com

TUE

13

Festivals | The magical,

spirited Mary Poppins Returns delights everyone on the big screen for FREE. Open space at dusk. traversecityfilmfest.org

THU

15

SAT

and roll, a little bit of pop, a little bit of R&B. That's how Lady Antebellum describes their signature spin on country music. Catch them in concert with Kylie Morgan at Interlochen. tickets.interlochen.org

SUN

25

Disney’s beloved film and the works of Rudyard Kipling, in The Jungle Book, KIDS at the Old Town Playhouse, Mowgli the “man cub” bounds through the jungle and learns what it means to be human. MyNorthTickets.com

SAT

Nature | Blooms & Birds

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is a weekly walk every Tuesday in Bellaire. Identify the beautiful and unique wildflowers at Grass River. Along the way, listen and look for the birds that call Grass River home. grassriver.org

Festivals | Petoskey's

17

waterfront is filled with food, fun, entertainment and activities galore all weekend at the 16th Annual Festival on the Bay! visitpetoskeymichigan.com

Festivals | The Rubber Ducky

Festival’s biggest day, features a quarter-mile race when 2,000 yellow ducks are dumped into the Intermediate River, parade, kids games, face painting, sidewalk and library book sales and much more! bellairechamber.org

Sports | Traverse City is

excited to host the inaugural Ironman 70.3 race, consisting of a 1.2 mile swim in West Grand Traverse Bay, a 56-mile bike through Leelanau and Benzie Counties, and a 13.1-mile run along Boardman Lake. ironman.com

And More | LaborFest

is an all day, family-friendly event featuring a car and bike show, parade, games, food and drinks and live entertainment with headliner Here Come the Mummies. Douglas Park, Manistee. MyNorthTickets.com

FIND MORE AT M Y N O R T H .C O M > E V E N T S

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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Majestic Mountain Top This once-in-a-lifetime property shows off 2 mountain-tops with dramatic exposed rock features, 120 contiguous acres of mostly hardwood forest, established roads & trails, and a beautiful 800-plus square foot full-log cabin shell. Property like this is rare, and the views are guaranteed to impress. $399,000

Partridge Bay Dream Home Building Site This shoreline rises out of Superior’s crystalline waters offering views of Partridge Island, Marquette, and Little Presque Isle; the perfect awe-inspiring location for your dream home. You will have privacy, 1,000 feet of Lake Superior, and Marquette within a stone’s throw. $990,000

Award-winning Log Home Minutes From Marquette This home gives you 500 feet of Lake Superior, 500 feet of Saux Head Lake, 5 bedrooms, 4 fireplaces, and an easy 14 mile drive to Marquette. It also comes with a jointly-owned 640-acre forestland and mile of undeveloped Lake Superior beach. $1,195,000

U.P. Waterfront ComPany | upwaterfront.com Discover the beauty, power, and magic of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. halleyuplakes@gmail.com | (906) 228-8889


august | events

Seasonal Transition Save yourself a trip. Call ahead to verify all times and dates. Find more events at MyNorth.com

Art & Craft Fairs

40th Annual Suttons Bay Art Festival: 3-4

Marina Park, suttonsbayartfestival.org

Onekama Days, Arts & Crafts Fair: 3-5

Onekama, visitmanisteecounty.com

47th Annual Sault Summer Arts Fest: 6

Arts, Crafts and Music, Downtown Sault Ste. Marie, saultarts.org Michaywé Arts and Crafts Fair: 9-10

Michaywé Club House, Gaylord, michayweartfair.com Festival of Arts & Antique Wooden Boat Show: 10

Hessel Marina, Hessel, lciboatshow.com Gold Coast Artisan Fair: 10-11

Ludington’s Rotary Park, formerly City Park, visitludington.com Annual Frankfort Art Fair: 16-17

Market Square Park, Frankfort, benzie.org Downtown Juried Art Fair: 17

Cass Street, Traverse City, downtowntc.com Rubber Ducky Arts & Crafts: 17

Rubber Ducky Festival/Bellaire, bellairechamber.org Mackinaw City Arts & Craft Show: 24-25

Conkling Heritage Waterfront Park, mackinawcity.com

Fairs, Festivals and Holidays

Find more Fairs, Festivals and Holiday events at MyNorth.com.

Elk Rapids Harbor Days: July 31-3

The 64th annual Harbor Days kicks off on Wednesday, with opening ceremonies at 7pm at the popular Evening on River Street. The schedule includes Kid’s Day games, athletic events such as Harborun and yoga, carnival rides, festival parade, musical entertainment and fireworks. 231.342.1058, elkrapidsharbordays.org. Blues & Brews Festival: 3

The second annual Brews and Blues Festival takes place dockside at the St. Ignace Marina. Sample a wide variety of craft beer produced by local breweries, grab some pub grub and settle in to listen to live blues music. 6–10pm. stignace.com Port Oneida Fair: 9-10

Visitors take a step back in time at the Port Oneida Fair and experience life as it was in the late 1800's and early 1900's. Imagine the life of the pioneers as you help bale hay or watch a broom-maker at work. Learn about spinning, basket weaving, soap making, butter making, candle dipping, and fur trapping. Listen as park rangers and local history experts share the area's history. Watch as teams of oxen and horses cut, load, and haul hay, and artists and craftsmen demonstrate their skills. The fair is held at six of the historic farmsteads in Port Oneida. Each farm has a variety of artists, crafts, food, and activities for visitors. A shuttle service provides transportation between venues. 231.326.4700, nps.gov/slbe.

Casual Elegant Fashions for Men and Women State and Main Streets • Harbor Springs 231.526.6914 • hildaharbor@gmail.com Open Daily 10am-5pm • Sunday 12pm-4pm

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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THE GREY GABLES INN RESTAURANT A Part of Charlevoix’s Heritage Since 1936

Celebrating 25 Years

Charlevoix’s Best Kept Secret

Charlevoix’s Best Kept Secret

KAM MARINE AFFILIATE

Serving Dinner • Cocktails • Sushi Menu • Piano Bar • Live Entertainment 308 BELVEDERE AVENUE • CHARLEVOIX, MICHIGAN 231.547.9261 • WWW.GREYGABLESINN.COM

(231)386-5151

Serving Dinner • Cocktails • Sushi Menu Live Entertainment • Piano Bar Reservations Welcome Featuring SEA TO TABLE concept all Fall! Banquet & Catering Facilities THE GREYRoom GABLES INN RESTAURANT

b

A Part of Charlevoix’s Heritage Since 1936

Serving Dinner • Cocktails • Sushi Menu • Live Piano Bar • Entertainment on Weekends Reservations Welcome • Banquet Room & Catering Facilities • Now Taking Holiday Reservations 308 BELVEDERE AVENUE • CHARLEVOIX, MICHIGAN 308 BELVEDERE AVENUE • CHARLEVOIX, MICHIGAN • 231.547.9261 • WWW.GREYGABLESINN.COM

231.547.9261 • WWW.GREYGABLESINN.COM

10% DISCOUNT TO ALL NEW HEATED & COLD STORAGE CUSTOMERS

HOME IS WHERE THE ANCHOR DROPS. I NSI DE HE ATE D & COLD STORAGE OUTSI DE M AST-UP STORAGE NOW OFFERING BROKERAGE SERVICES Authorized Gas & Diesal Sales & Services Hull Painting & Varnishing • Re-Finishing Engine Re-Powering • Open Year Round MerCruiser, Yanmar & Volvo Penta Dealers

77 TON LIFT CAPACITY 305 E. Lake Street Downtown Petoskey (231) 758-1030

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NPBBY.COM 10824 North Shore Drive, Northport MI A Lormax Stern Company


august | events

SPECIALIZING IN WOMEN'S CLOTHING, ACCESSORIES, AND UNIQUE GIFTS

327 Bridge St.

Charlevoix

231.437.3966

thistlestyle.com

THE YOUNG AMERICANS DINNER THEATRE WHEN: PERFORMANCES THROUGH AUGUST 24, MONDAY–SATURDAY WHERE: BOYNE HIGHLANDS

LOCAL TICKETS ONE PLACE

PHOTO COURTESY OF BOYNE HIGHLANDS

8/11

The Young Americans Dinner Theatre has been entertaining audiences for more than four decades. The players, who are students at The Young Americans College of the Performing Arts in California, hail from cities across the globe. Attendees look forward to performances covering a variety of music from opera to country, rap, hip hop and choral works. Each season offers a freshly curated show, so if you’ve attended this event in the past, expect something new. Director Bill Brawley has been with the theatre since its inception 44 years ago. “When Bill talks about the theatre, he always says there is a special magic our patrons feel from the ambiance of Boyne Highlands and the heartfelt performance from our 30 Young Americans. This feeling is the reason guests come back year after year,” says Suzie Johnson, The Young Americans Director and Producer of Michigan Projects. Boyne Highlands elevates the concept of dinner and a show, pairing the Broadwaystyle performances with refined cuisine. Patrons enjoy oven roasted prime rib or sautéed Boursin chicken breast, while The Young Americans bring the stage to life. These performances do sell out, get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com or call the box office at 888.207.2032. EVENT DETAILS • Cash bar and appetizers begin at 6 p.m. • Dinner is served at 7 p.m. • Adults $69; Children (12 and under) $46 —Meaghin Hornsby

CHEF’S TABLE

8/24

TASTE OF BOYNE HIGHLANDS

8/25

MURDER MYSTERY DINNER: TILL DEATH DO US PART

CRYSTAL LAKE W E S T

S H O R E

M L S #

1 8 6 1 6 2 3

jonzickert.com 57 N. Michigan Ave - Beulah, MI

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- LOCAL - ORGANIC - GLUTEN-FREE - VEGAN - FAMILY OWNED - CUSTOMER FOCUSED -

- NEWLY EXPANDED - GROCERY & MORE -

RANDY’S DINER IS THE PLACE FOR OUTSTANDING BURGERS! Open 6am-9pm, Monday-Saturday Gluten Free Options Now Available!

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Newly Remodeled Dining Room, Same Great Specials As Always! VISIT OUR FACEBOOK PAGE FOR NEWS & SPECIALS

1120 CARVER STREET, TRAVERSE CITY 231.946.0789

Elizabeth Blair

FinePearls

and women too! www.gagaforkids.com 231.547.1600

Pearls pretty please! 115 W. Main Street ~ Harbor Springs, MI ~ 231.526.7500 WestMainPearls.com ~ ElizabethBlair.com Jewelers of America Cultured Pearl Association of America American Gem Society

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august | events

PAINT GRAND TRAVERSE WHEN: AUGUST 12–18 WHERE: TRAVERSE CITY The second annual plein air painting festival will feature more than 40 award-winning artists from across the country who will spend the week composing Northern Michigan landscapes on canvas. Artists will do several paintings a day, which will be for sale throughout the week at Crooked Tree Arts Center (322 Sixth St., Traverse City). Petoskey’s Kevin Barton, Chicago-based Shar Coulson and TC’s Lori Feldpausch are just a few of the talented artists being showcased. “Artists drop off paintings at the arts center as they’re completed each day, so the collection rotates and grows during the week,” says event organizer Megan Kelto. “We’ll even sell paintings off the easel as they’re being done. If you see an artist out at a winery and they’re in the middle of a painting that you have to have, we can make it happen.” A spectator favorite last year, the Quick Draw Competition, will be held Thursday, August 15. Artists will have just two hours to create a painting at Crystal Mountain and the Michigan Legacy Art Park. Following, while the paint is still wet, there will be a sale and awards ceremony. The free event includes the 40+ featured artists, along with anyone else who wants to compete. “There’s only a handful of high-level plein air festivals across the country like this,” says Cindy McSurely, Crooked Tree Art Center’s development director. “This is like an Olympic sport for artists.” Paint Grand Traverse culminates on Saturday, August 17 with an evening gala, art sale, awards ceremony and strolling dinner with live music at Crooked Tree Arts Center. Gala tickets can be purchased online at MyNorthTickets.com, or call 800.836.0717. (Note, tickets sold out last year.) There will also be a ticketed presale hour, which is an opportunity to be the first to shop the collection of more than 200 paintings created that week. A free morningafter-sale is set for Sunday, August 18.

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

SEE THE ARTISTS IN ACTION: You’re invited to watch the artists paint, ask questions and even buy art on-site. Visit paintgrandtraverse.com for live information on each artist’s location. Monday, August 12: Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore Tuesday, August 13: Leelanau Peninsula Wednesday, August 14: Old Mission Peninsula + Sara Hardy Farmers Market Thursday, August 15: Quick Draw Competition, Crystal Mountain, Thompsonville Friday, August 16: Downtown Traverse City View the full schedule of community events, including workshops for children and adults, lectures and demos at paintgrandtraverse.com. —C.S.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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LOCAL NATURAL ORGANIC & GMO-FREE INGREDIENTS!

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ICE CREAM - GELATO - SORBET VEGAN CREAM - COFFEE DELI SANDWICHES - & MORE

HOME OF AMERICA’S BEST TURTLE SUNDAY

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231.622.4908

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august | events

Crystal Downs Country Club 42nd Annual Antique Boat Show: 10

Enjoy the sites and sounds of the Les Cheneaux Islands! Visit Hessel in the beautiful Upper Peninsula of Michigan to view one of the largest antique boat shows in the nation. Restored boats dating back to the early 1900s are registered and displayed in the water in this very unique show. This year Gar Wood Boats will be showcased. A special award will be presented. No dogs, alcohol or smoking allowed inside gates. Arts & Crafts in the park during the show. Hessel Marina, 906.484.2821, lchistorical.org. Buckley Old Engine Show: 15-18

Over one thousand antique tractors and engines run by steam, hands-on exhibits, old-time music, woodworking, flea market, arts and crafts, oil well demo building, free steam train rides, sawmill, veneer mill, kids play area and scavenger hunt, cider mill demo, farm demonstrations, threshing and straw baling, railroad speeder rides, great food concessions and much more! Camping available. 231.301.4867, buckleyoldengineshow.org.

Film

Find more Film events at MyNorth.com.

Beach R oad • m ls 18462 59

Suzy Voltz

(231) 651-9711 suzy.voltz@gmail.com

s 1862588 Beach Road • ml

RealEstateOne.com

57 N. Michigan Ave • Beulah • 231-882-4449

Get lost this summer in beautiful Northern Michigan Come visit us in Traverse City, Glen Arbor, Torch Lake, Suttons Bay and surrounding areas.

Outdoor Movies By the Bay: 4, 11, 18, 25

American Legion Park on the bay in St. Ignace, is transformed into an outdoor movie theater every Sunday evening. Grab your chairs and blankets. Free movies begin at dusk. Popcorn and other concessions available for purchase. St. Ignace, 800.338.6660, stignace.com.

Kids

811 W. Front Street, Traverse City, MI 49684

888-844-TAVR • www.tavronline.com

Subscribe free to Kids Up North at MyNorth.com/kids.

Northwestern Michigan Fair: 4-10

From harness racing to livestock auctions, from prize-winning roses and vegetables to exotic chickens—it’s all part of the Northwestern Michigan Fair, a local tradition since 1873. Enjoy all the old-fashioned fun along with carnival action on the midway, plenty of good eats, demonstrations and exhibits galore. Traverse City. northwesternmichiganfair.net

Literary

Find more Literary events at MyNorth.com.

Stone Circle Gatherings: 3, 10, 17, 24, 31

DON’T MISS YOUR OPPORTUNITY THE LEXUS GOLDEN OPPORTUNITY SALES EVENT FOR A LIMITED TIME ONLY

Returning again this year! Poetry, storytelling and music are featured at this unique outdoor amphitheater every Saturday through Labor Day Weekend. Poet bard Terry Wooten will host the gatherings beginning at 9pm around the fire. Sit under a canopy of stars perched on a boulder, or bring a blanket or chair to enjoy the everchanging variety of entertainment that is woven throughout the evening. Stone Circle is located ten miles north of Elk Rapids off US 31. Turn right on Stone Circle Dr., and follow signs. terry-wooten.com.

Music

Options Shown

Find more Music events at MyNorth.com.

Summer Sounds at Michigan Legacy Art Park: 3, 10

Aug. 3 The Bootstrap Boys. Aug. 10 The Ragbirds. Guests are encouraged to bring picnics, lawn chairs, or blankets. Snacks, sandwiches, and drinks are available for purchase at the Mountain Market. Art Park folding chairs will be available to rent or purchase. The amphitheater is accessible by 1/4 mile ADA trail from the parking lot. Rides from the Art Park to the amphitheater begin at 6:15pm. If raining, the concert will be held indoors at Crystal Mountain, signs will be posted. 231.378.4963, MyNorthTickets.com. TX

Contact Us For Your Custom Lease Or Purchase Quote Today!

HARVEY LEXUS OF GRAND RAPIDS 2018 ELITE OF LEXUS DEALER

2550 28th Street SE - 1/2 mile west of Woodland Mall Sales Hours: Mon & Wed 9-8; Tue, Thu, Fri 9-6; Sat 9-4

HarveyLexusGrandRapids.com

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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Antiquities

w a r e h o u s e O F G R A N D T R AV E R S E

Harbor Springs ~ Bay Harbor

T R AV E R S E C I T Y WA R E H O U S E D I S T R I C T

A division of Walstrom Marine

229 Garland St | 231.943.2121 | AntiquitiesWarehouseTC.com

Cherry farmer, foreign correspondent, fisherman, inventor, family man DOWNSTREAM

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A BIG LIFE IN A SMALL PLACE “… a lyrical and altogether enchanting journey …” —TOM BROKAW “Prepare to be inspired.” —JEFF DANIELS AVAILABLE AT LOCAL BOOKSTORES AND AMAZON

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MyNorth.com

Saturday, August 10, 2019 Always the 2nd Saturday in August www.charlevoixwaterfrontartfair.org


august | events

CADILLAC MICHIGAN cadillacmichigan.com

Made in Michigan by natives of the Mitt

BOOK YOUR TRIP TODAY

Summer Reservations Still Available Booking for fall NOW

7642 S. US 131Cadillac, Michigan 231.779.4956 - 1.800.HOLIDAY

www.ihg.com

Pure Michigan Blue Diamond and Silver Ring only at

www.wexfordjewelers.com

MINI ON THE MACK

PHOTOS COURTESY OF ST. IGNACE VISITORS BUREAU

WHEN: SATURDAY AUGUST 3 WHERE: ST. IGNACE Motorists from across the nation are coming together for the fourth year to attempt to break the world record for the largest MINI parade. (The Guinness World Record is 1,450 held by the London and Surrey MINI Club Owners in the UK.) For the event, MINI of Grand Rapids is teaming up with Van Andel Institute’s Purple Community to raise funds for Parkinson’s disease research. MINIONTHEMACK.COM,

WIN A TWO-NIGHT FAMILY VACATION AT CRYSTAL MOUNTAIN MyNorth.com/Crystal19

STIGNACE.COM —C. S.

EVENT DETAILS FRIDAY, AUGUST 2: 10 a.m.–10 p.m. Registration and pre-ordered T-shirt pick up at Little Bear East Arena at 275 Marquette St., St. Ignace. SATURDAY, AUGUST 3: 6–9 a.m. Parking and parade lineup. 10 a.m. MINI rally and parade across the Mackinac Bridge.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

AUG ’19

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2536 Crescent Beach Road, Onekama

STUNNING OLD MISSION ESTATE 3888 Swaney Road

Quality-built log home with 100 ft of private frontage on PORTAGE LAKE, which leads out to LAKE MICHIGAN. If you’re looking for privacy, this is it. No neighbor on one side (a rare find for waterfront), and views of the Portage Point Inn. Four large bedrooms, three full bathrooms, spaciousopen feel throughout, an attached two-car garage and two beautiful, stone, natural gas fireplaces; one on each floor. Central Air is ready for your summer relaxation. And the enormous deck is ideal for watching the wildlife and the stars. Lots of room for parking for all of your friends and family!! You must see this one in person. And if you’ve seen it once, you should take another look. (Ideally located between Arcadia Bluffs, Crystal Mountain and Manistee’s Meijer.) $865,000

LakeMI.com

Fantastic Old Mission estate situated on nearly 50 acres with vineyards, views of the bay and a world-class equestrian facility! With 6 bedrooms, 7 baths and over 12,000 square feet, this one-of-a-kind custom home makes for a grand personal estate, or has potential to be used as a bed and breakfast, a horse boarding/riding facility or even Old Mission’s newest winery. The home itself features African teak and heated marble flooring, a movie theater, indoor sport court, fireplaces on all three levels, a gourmet kitchen w/ butler’s pantry, formal dining room, sauna, marble steam room and a walkout lower level.

Shawn Schmidt Smith ASSOCIATE BROKER

231.499.1990

Call/Text Suzanne Riley 231.620.9561

M VE with the ONE that makes it easy

Carly Smith REALTOR®

231.649.3137

57 N Michigan Ave, Beulah 113 N Main St. Leland 521 Randolph St., Traverse City 511 E Front St, Traverse City

SCHMIDT REALTORS 522 East Front Street | Traverse City, MI 49686 Each Office is Independently Owned and Operated.

RealEstateOne.com

WILLOW VINEYARD & WINERY

2880’ BETSIE RIVER FRONTAGE

$1.9m MLS 1862771 Shelly Brunette 231-642-6436

$1,149,000 MLS 1862233 Sharon McKinley 231-645-8026

Est. turn-key operation on the Leelanau Peninsula. 2BR/2BA, European influenced Villa/Residence.

216 ACRES, 5-bedroom home, 3.5 baths, 24x32 garage, 30x48 barn

OLD MISSION PENINSULA STUNNING EAST BAY HOME 112 ft of private waterfront property. 5 bedroom, 5 bath 7500 sq ft.

$1,835,000 MLS 1860811 Ginny Fey 231-360-7822

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4 Bedrooms / 3 Bathrooms 4,078 SQ Feet Main Home 3 Car Garage with Bunk Room Shared Frontage, Two Fireplaces On Private Cul-De-Sac

$569,000 MLS 1862925 John Watkins 231-256-2904

TRUE UP NORTH LIFE STYLE

1.13 acres, 164 ft of waterfront footage, 4 BR 3 BA, Open floor plan, multi level decking

$397,000 MLS 1861176 Lou Okma 231-645-7696


august | events

Nature

Find more Nature events at MyNorth.com.

Grand Traverse Regional Land Conservancy Events: 1-31

Aug. 1 Baby’s Breath Removal Workday at Elberta Beach. Aug. 3 Trail Grand Opening at St Clair Lk – Six Mile Lk. Aug. 15 Hike at Proposed Upper Manistee Headwaters Preserve. Aug. 17 & 31 Hike at Proposed Torch Lake Preserve, Aug. 17 Great Lake Naturalist Initiative Fish Sampling at Deepwater Point. Aug. 24 Property Tour of Proposed Mitchel Creek Meadows. gtrlc.org.

You belong on a

Runs/Walks/Cycling Port Oneida Heritage Run/Walk: 3

Glen Arbor

Harbor Days Harborun: 3

Elk Rapids

Michigan Runner Girl Trail 5/10K: 4

45 North Vineyard & Winery

Crystal Lake Team Marathon: 10

Downtown Beulah

Tahqua Trail Run: 10

Tahquamenon Falls

Dune Dash/ 4-Mile Run/Walk: 17

Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail, Empire

Rubber Ducky 5K Run/Walk: 18

Downtown Bellaire

Big Bear Butt Cruise: 24

Big Bear Sportsmans Club, Manistee Ironman 70.3: 25

Traverse City

Theater

If you have a kitchen, get in here!

Find more Theater events at MyNorth.com.

Follywood: 14-15

The Erickson Center's Annual Variety Show is back with all of your favorite live and “not so live” numbers! Table seating is available by reservation on a first come, first served basis. Sit back, relax, and let the cast of multiaged, local performers, entertain you, Curtis-style! MyNorthTickets.com

The Home of Pepper Mill Spices

And More

MICHIGAN VACATION GUIDES FREE NORTHERN

Find more And More events at MyNorth.com.

Northport Dog Parade: Tail House Rock: 10

Parade begins at noon. Register your dog at 10:30am at the garage across from the Mill Pond on Third Street. Registration fee is $10 the day of the parade. Preregistration is only $5 if registered before noon Friday, August 9 at either the Pennington Collection, Dog Ear Books, or Tucker's. New route this year! 231.386.5575, northportomenachamber.org.

Kitchen & Pantry Accessories Decor, Gifts, Gift Baskets Famous custom blended seasonings of the highest quality pepper and spices.

Balloons Over Bellaire: 23-24

Don’t forget your camera for this special two-day event and help to welcome back 20+ hot air balloonists to Shanty Creek and Bellaire! Visit the top slopes of Summit Mountain behind the Lakeview Hotel from 6-8pm on Friday and Saturday evenings as teams of balloonists take flight. With Lake Bellaire’s backdrop the sky will come alive with color. There is no charge to attend and parking is free. Enter through the Conference Center (north entrance) of the hotel. bellairechamber.org Libby Stallman is calendar editor of Traverse. Enter your event information at MyNorth.com/events two to three months prior to event date. Questions or more information email Libby@mynorth.com.

The House of Good Taste! Downtown Alden • Open 7 days, 10am-5pm May thru Dec (231) 331-4711 • (800) 226-5481 Visit us all year long at www.aldenmillhouse.com

DOWNLOAD TODAY! MyNorth.com/Vacay

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VACATION THE STRAITS OF MACKINAC IN ST. IGNACE

INTRODUCING THE CLUB AT BREAKERS RESORT

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what to do | travel

Starry, Starry Nights Start Up North for your own foray into astrotourism. TEXT BY KIM SCHNEIDER

Ask star lore historian Mary Stewart Adams the best way to experience August night skies, and she’ll suggest you start at one of the state's three Dark Sky Preserves in the Northeast corner of the state. There, the moon will be rising as the sun's setting in the west and you'll see the bright glow of both Jupiter and Saturn. Finish the trip (or take another) on the state's Northwest corner to watch the sun set and stars populate the thickest part of the Milky Way over Lake Michigan's Sturgeon Bay.

THOMPSON'S HARBOR STATE PARK, ROGERS CITY From dusk through sunrise, you'll be treated to a sky show at this mostly day-use park with two rustic cabins and no actual harbor. Plan time to explore trails by day: this park has more of the state's wildflower—the Dwarf Lake Iris—than any other spot in Michigan, then perch anywhere on the 7 1/2 miles of Lake Huron shoreline for the star show.

ROCKPORT STATE RECREATION AREA, ROGERS CITY This is a star- and fossil- hunter's paradise that draws collectors on hunts for Petoskey stones by day, constellations by night. The former quarry offers hilltop views of Lake Huron that will put you just a little closer to the stars.

NEGWEGON STATE PARK, HARRISVILLE There are four campsites here to hike—or paddle—to. Know that you need to bring your own supplies and water. The sites fill early, so plan ahead. But there are miles of Lake Huron beachfront good for stargazing. The park is also remote—there's a 21/2 mile drive down a two-track and another hike to get to the beach. This is where to head if you want to make your star wishes in solitude.

PHOTO BY TAYLOR BROWN

WILDERNESS STATE PARK, CARP LAKE These 26 miles of protected shoreline amid 10,500 acres just south of the Mackinac Bridge are also bordered on one side by the state's only federally-designated dark sky park—Headlands International Dark Sky Park. It's so dark that “it's a different world there,” says Stephanie Yancer of the DNR. There are waterfront cabins and campsites, making it a good place to stargaze the entire night away.

Kim Schneider is a long-time travel writer specializing in Michigan adventures, food and wine. The Midwest Travel Journalist Association has named her Mark Twain Travel Writer of the Year, and she's the author of the recently published book, 100 Things to Do in Traverse City Before You Die. kimschneider.net

FUN FACTS! THANK YOUR LUCKY STARS (OR LEGISLATORS): Michigan state parks are celebrating their 100th birthday and a century of land protection this year; the legislature further authorized protection of park skies in 2012 when it created three Dark Sky Preserves and it added three more in 2016. TRENDING: Lonely Planet named night sky tourism the top travel trend for 2019, noting that for 99 percent of people in Europe and the U.S., the night sky is obscured by artificial lighting. ATTEND A STAR PARTY: Watch for August Meteors and S'mores events held during August's Perseid meteor shower, Aug. 9–14; michigan.gov/darksky. GO OLD SCHOOL: Star apps are cool but not especially dark sky friendly. Better: Use a star map like ones sold by Abrams Planetarium; abramsplanetarium.org.

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essay | up in michigan

BOBBERS AND BLUEGILL Sometimes the best fishing—and living— is the simplest kind.

PHOTO BY TODD ZAWOSTOWSKI

TEXT BY BOB BUTZ

Where fishing is concerned, I’m finding that the older I get the more inclined I am to practice the endeavor in its most elemental form; that is, with a hook and a line. I like the smell of this kind of fishing, which to me is the fragrance of coffee grounds and potting soil. Worms. For years I considered myself a fly fisherman, and in doing so forgot how much I used to enjoy digging in the earth for worms. When I was small my father and I would prepare for a weekend fishing trip days in advance. I was the only kid I knew who actually used to pray for rain, a good summer downpour to soak the backyard. Come nightfall, my father would man the flashlight as I crept barefoot beside him through the dewy grass pinching up night crawlers one after the other. Looking back on it now, the most vivid memories I have of fishing with my dad come not from the actual fishing but rather when the two of us would head off into the night to rustle up some bait. That or striking off across the field to the creek in the hollow behind our house, a place just loaded with minnows and crayfish. Going there to catch bait was itself an adventure. We used to put on our old sneakers and roll up our pant legs. My father would set up with his minnow seine spanning a narrow place while I went upstream to wait for his signal. When he’d holler, “Ready!” I came on down like a moose sloshing and splashing, kicking around and plunging headlong into the deeper holes, pushing the minnows out

ahead of me. Rare to come around the bend and not find my dad heaving up what seemed like hundreds of fat, palebelly chubs, daces, and red darters. For a boy of seven, it was marvelously muddy and rewarding work—almost as much fun as the actual fishing. Even the time I crawled out of the creek and went to wipe from my legs what I thought was leafy debris. Only they weren’t little black leaves stuck to my shins … they were leeches, and a good number of them, too. I tried pulling one off and, finding it stuck fast, was filled with a sinking and profound sense of doom. Men in funny pith helmets and safari shorts were all the time getting in trouble with leeches in the Africa I knew from watching Tarzan, my favorite after school television show at the time. I kept thinking that any moment I, too, would start flailing on the bank and tearing at my clothes until rendered weak and unconscious by blood-sucking death. My father, however, not only remained calm, he was, in a word, beaming. This it turned out was a godsend. As I sat in the mud feeling woozy, he carefully plucked the leeches away one by one, dropping each into the bait bucket where they coiled and squirmed in the water like little, black sinister eels. “Good work, Son,” he said, tossing my hair. “Those are some beauties you got there.” I ended up landing one of the biggest bass of my life that day on one of those leeches. It was the only fish of the day. First my bobber, a little plastic red and

white job, was there, and then it was not. I reared back on the rod, and the fish’s head broke water like a nuclear sub. A shower of white foam and a flash of red gills and a gaping mouth that looked as big as the open end of a garbage can. Fish like that have a way of teaching you a thing or two about keeping sight of your priorities. After that I never got queasy about leeches latching onto my flesh again. I also learned not to lose focus, not to lose hope, even after hours sitting in the hot sun waiting for a fish to strike. In fact, regarding physical discomfort, I discovered that in the process of fishing the degree of sunburn, windburn, general all-round nastiness, and/or downright boredom I could endure was often directly proportionate to any good fishing fortune that might chance to come along and gobble up the wiggling bit of bait at the end of my line. Fishing taught me that good luck was the stuff that came about through patience and persistence. Good luck, I also determined, was often created through the good work that often preceded it. I’m in my forties, too young I understand to be sounding like a grizzly old curmudgeon, but when I look around at the kids today (and, come to think of it, a lot of adults, too) I can tell almost at a glance the ones who make time for fishing and the ones who don’t. The kids in my neighborhood who fish strike me as a determined lot. They all have good healthy suntans. I see them nearly everyday in the summertime riding their bikes at a good clip down the dirt road that leads to a great little bass4

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essay | up in michigan

scalawagswhitefish.com

and bluegill pond in the woods. Fishing there myself one day, I was struck at how quiet, how dogged they were even though nothing was biting except the deer flies and mosquitoes. These two little boys wearing baseball caps pulled low, stood like silent Indians on the bank never taking their eyes off the water, never more than an arm’s reach away from the pair of Y-shaped sticks where they carefully rested their fishing rods while waiting for a strike. Somehow I doubt children like these are among the herky-jerky horde of delinquents you hear about so often on the news. I like to think that they are also the kids who grow up to be the kind of adults who not only don’t mind a little dirt under their fingernails but who also never gaze down at their hands at the end of the day wondering what they did with the hours. When I think of how fishing enables a person to just kick back and relax, to get back in touch with family and oneself, about the only problem I can see with fishing is that a lot of people who would benefit from the perspective angling offers never think to give it a try. On days when things just aren’t going right, times when I feel put out and put upon, I find myself longing for a quiet place on the water. I daydream about my own personal paradise, a pond, and me sitting at the end of a wooden dock with a fishing pole and a bucket full of bait. Fishing for me is a soothing combination of contemplation and concentration. When my eyes are drawn down to a single spot on the water, and the bobber starts to pop and twitch and then suddenly disappear, everything else around it turns fuzzy. Any feeling of disconnectedness disappears with the widening ripples, and for a moment I feel attached, metaphorically, literally, existentially, by an invisible thread to something out there really alive. It’s the best therapy I know. A version of this essay originally ran in the July 2006 issue of Traverse. Bob Butz writes from Lake Ann.

Bring Physics to Life By Thames & Kosmos

An app-based video game which uses real-world sensor data collected from the environment to generate a an array of creatures.

FRESH FISH EVERYDAY! WHITEFISH PERCH WALLEYE CHOWDER Located across from the Park Place in Traverse City

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NECKLACE BY JOANNA CRAFT

D ow n tow n S u t to n s B ay bahles.net | (231) 271-3841 Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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CURATED BY CARLY SIMPSON AND GAIL SNABLE, WITH SUPPORT FROM THE MICHIGAN DEPARTMENT OF NATURAL RESOURCES

THIS IS A FAVORITE MEMORY FOR OUR FAMILY. WE CAMPED IN THE PORKIES FOR FIVE DAYS WITH THREE FAMILIES IN THE SUMMER OF 2018. THIS PHOTO IS THE FIRST BIG HIKE ALL NINE KIDS COULD DO THEMSELVES (NO CARRYING INCLUDED). THE HIGHLIGHT WAS HAVING LUNCH AT THIS BEAUTIFUL WATERFALL. THE KIDS EVEN TOOK A DIP IN THE COLD WATER. IF YOU WANT TO CHECK IT OUT, THE HIKE STARTS AT GOVERNMENT PEAK TRAIL. — AMI VAN ANTWERP

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SHOPPENINSULAS.COM IS THE OFFICIAL MICHIGAN STATE PARKS MERCHANDISE PROVIDER FOR THE LOWER PENINSULA. IN ADDITION TO THE PARK PERMIT STICKERS, THEY ALSO HAVE A POSTER FEATURING EVERY STICKER EVER PRODUCED. VISIT THEIR SITE — YOU’LL FALL IN LOVE.


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OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE: “ Our visit to Fayette was just a spontaneous detour—a way to drag our feet before heading back south across the Mighty Mac. However, the stunning vistas of Lake Michigan and Big Bay de Noc became one of the highlights of our U.P. trip. And better yet, we practically had the place to ourselves. It was truly a hidden gem!”

AMANDA PITTS PHOTOGRAPHY

­—A happy road-tripper at Fayette Historic State Park

“ Gram and Papa loved to travel. Often, they took my sister, Fawn, and I along on their Michigan adventures. We visited a lot of state parks like Silver Lake, Palms Book, Tahquamenon Falls and more. Here we are at the falls circa 1985(ish).” —A happy granddaughter at Tahquamenon Falls State Park

A park officer at Keith J. Charters Traverse City State Park shows off a visitor citation. Even from 400 feet in the air you can see the bottom of the big spring, Kitch-iti-kipi, at Palms Book State Park. Lodge, tent, cabin, teepee—visitors have their choice of lodging at Cheboygan State Park. Big Sable Point Lighthouse at Ludington State Park. Walk up the spiral staircase—all 130 steps— to soak up an unrivaled view of the shore and dunes. LEFT: Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park—at 60,000 acres it is Michigan’s largest state park, and a place to immerse in true wilderness: oldgrowth forest, epic waterfalls, rivers and streams and more than 90 miles of trails. “ Our little guy has always been a homebody and he never wants to go ANYWHERE. But get him out on the trails, or near a waterfall with rocks to climb around on, and he’s an explorer through and through!” — Amanda Pitts

ers ? k c i t s e s Like thease a little h Purc ro love at ret insulas.com shoppen

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WE HAULED ALL THE CAMP GEAR IN OUR BOAT AND PULLED IT WITH A BIG OLD STATION WAGON. LUDINGTON STATE PARK (PICTURED) WAS A FAVORITE. —DAVE SNODGRASS

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@PULLMANDAVE

@PULLMANDAVE

THE LUMBER WAGON AT HARTWICK PINES STATE PARK

AUGUST 2 CENTENNIAL CELEBRATION, ROCKPORT RECREATION AREA AUGUST 9 PENTWATER HOMECOMING BEACH GLOW YOGA, MEARS STATE PARK AUGUST 10 TAHQUA TRAIL RUN, TAHQUAMENON FALLS STATE PARK AUGUST 13 METEORS AND S’MORES, VAN RIPER STATE PARK AUGUST 16

INTRO TO ARCHERY, CLEAR LAKE STATE PARK

AUGUST 24

BLACK IRON DAYS, HARTWICK PINES STATE PARK

DONATE TO MICHIGAN STATE PARKS, SHARE YOUR FAMILY’S STORIES ON A SPECIAL MEMORY MAP AND FIND A FULL LIST OF CENTENNIAL EVENTS AT MICHIGAN.GOV/DNR.

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There’s no sweeter way to celebrate 100 years of Michigan’s beautiful state parks than with an overnight camping adventure. And for countless camping families, especially those headed Up North on I-75, a pit-stop in Clare is part of that tradition. Jay’s Sporting Goods was started back in 1971 in a one-car garage by Jay and Arlene Poet. From its simple beginnings, Michigan’s original outdoor superstore is now a 90,000-square-foot destination in Clare, with a second location in Gaylord. Jay Poet was an outdoorsman and a firm believer in the tradition of family, and treating customers as part of the family. The store is run today by his sons Jeff and J.J., along with Jay’s widow Arlene and his grandchildren Derrick, Stephanie and Matt. And like any big family, staffers you meet at Jay’s offer up free advice. Expert advice, actually, because when they’re not guiding customers, they’re spending quality time outdoors in Michigan’s woods, rivers, lakes and campgrounds. You’ll find what you need to camp and cookout in comfort, and they’ll probably share their family’s favorite hobo pie recipe...

Camping Classics

When you’re at a state park this summer, go for time-tested camping gear. Jay’s has the goods. shop.jayssportinggoods.com/campingclassics

Double Parachute Nylon Hammock, $69.99; Chaco Women’s Mega Z/Cloud Sandals, $114.99; Chaco Men’s Z/1 Sandals, $104.99; GSI Outdoor Pioneer Bowls, Plates and Cutlery, $5.99-$26.99; Collapsible Camp Stool, $39.99; Love Pie Iron, $19.99; Coleman 54-Quart Steel-Belted Stainless Cooler, $179.99; Jay’s Trucker Cap $19.99 48

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TWILIGHT DESCENDS, THE FIRE CRACKLES. TIME TO PULL OUT THE PIE IRONS! Here, Jay’s Sporting Goods Shipping and Receiving Manager Sharon shares her irresistible Cherry Chocolate Campfire Pies.

2 3 1

triangles Pillsbury Original Crescent dough tablespoons cherry pie filling tablespoon (or more!) mini semisweet chocolate chips powdered sugar, optional

Liberally grease both sides of pie iron—use either lots of real butter or real oil. (PAM makes a non-aerosol spray pump canola oil that packs well for camping.) Press a piece of crescent roll dough in one side of the greased iron. Spoon in pie filling; sprinkle with mini chocolate chips. Press second crescent roll dough triangle on top, making sure the dough forms a seal. Clamp iron closed. // Cook over the indirect heat of the campfire until golden brown, warm and melty, around 5-6 minutes, turning occasionally. Carefully pop out of pie iron and sprinkle with powdered sugar if desired. Devour!

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OUR GREAT LAKES GUARDIAN AND ALONG COMES A SPECIAL HUMAN BEING WHO IS WILLING, AND READY, TO FIGHT FOR THE HEALTH OF OUR PRECIOUS FRESH WATER. TO KNOW HER IS TO CHAMPION HER.

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CHAPTER 1:

MY JOURNEY BEGINS.

Rain pitter-patters on the glass ceiling above me. Now it’s getting louder. It’s getting so loud that I have to raise my voice to talk to my lunch companion, Henry Little, the vice president of The Conservation Fund. We’ve never had a conversation before. This one lasts for over two hours, in part because we’re having a great dialogue and in part because we are trapped inside this restaurant by the rainstorm. We talk about the Amazon in Brazil where I spent a semester in college, we talk about his Cuban wife, and we talk about his life work as a conservationist saving wilderness out West. Henry wants to know what I want to do with the rest of my life. I’m 22. I’m armed with a Bachelor in Environmental Studies and History from Williams College, and still I can’t find the perfect environmental job. I thought it would be relatively easy. But I was wrong. Way wrong. It’s the fall of 1994 in Washington, D.C. and no one is hiring. Ph.D. candidates are volunteering at World Wildlife Fund and Conservation International. I’m never going to get a job at this rate. But something special happens under the glass ceiling that protects us from the rain. Henry sees a spark for this work in me, he sees the grit in me, and he sees that I’m never giving up. He tells me about this conservation group called the Sonoran Institute in Tucson, Arizona, that is working with communities across the Rocky Mountain West as they struggle to address rapid population growth and limited water. I’m intrigued. I want to know more about the Tohono O’dom or Pima Indians and neighboring Mexicans. And I want to escape this concrete jungle to go back out West. It was in the wilds of Wyoming and Montana as a teenager that I started on this journey as an environmentalist. I have no idea if the desert is the right place for me but I’m ready for an adventure, and this sounds a whole lot better than being trapped here working behind a desk and living with my parents. Besides, one day, I might return to D.C. as an environmental lawyer. CHAPTER 2:

IGNITING THE SPARK.

I never thought I was that kind of kid who knew what she wanted to do at an early age. But looking back, I was. It happened for me when I was 15 years old, on a 30-day trekking adventure in the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness in Wyoming. This is where I experienced my first solo, alone in the wilderness for 24 hours. And this is where I read the seminal environmental book— Encounters with the Archdruid by John McPhee—which opened my eyes to the philosophical divide between development and the modern conservation movement and humanized the battles necessary to save public park lands and wild rivers across our country. As McPhee explained, conservation battles often become intractable because the stakeholders “have lived in the problem they are solving, and they have a deep sense of mission.” Common strategies to overcome these challenges included a coordinated public campaign with compelling scientific and legal facts, a common cause, a united and broad coalition, and public messaging that tugged at the heartstrings. Even still, McPhee noted, “There are no victories in conservation . . . [David] Brower [of the Sierra Club] feels that he can win nothing.”

At 15, I had no idea what all this meant but it sounded important. My summer travels out West nurtured my soul and gave me meaning and purpose as a teenager. In wilderness, I became humble. I recognized the raw beauty and epic scale of nature. I thought of myself as a tiny star in a vast universe illuminated by billions and billions of other stars, planets, and other matter. In wilderness, I grew up. When I returned home to Brooklyn every August, I felt like a fish out of water. I am forever grateful to my mother, who shooed me and my siblings out of the house every hot East Coast summer and encouraged us to take great adventures, and let nature stir our souls. I was the kid who especially gravitated to the wonders of nature, the patterns of light and movement on the water, the sounds of birds and wildlife, the movement of trees, and the geology of landscapes. I feel a deep calm and rootedness when I am in nature. CHAPTER 3:

MY CONNECTION TO WATER.

I always gravitated toward places with open waters, rivers, lakes, oceans. I spent most of my childhood weekends on the Sassafras River, a tributary of the Chesapeake Bay, but I didn’t realize my connection to water until I moved to the Sonoran Desert. During most of the year, my desert hikes crossed scorched-looking earth scattered with low shrubby plants and prickly cacti, occasionally accented by grand saguaros or fountain-shaped acacia trees. When the rains come to the desert, however, it is one of the most magical sights to behold with its brilliant colors of magenta cacti flowers in bloom and verdant green leaves of the occotio plant reaching skyward toward the sun. The desert smells like rain and I am so thankful to see this water choking up and coursing through the arroyos that have been barren, dry, desiccated for months. A river is reborn. This natural cycle has been broken in this strange arid landscape. The ephemeral vibrant colors of the desert are unnaturally green all year round on golf course after golf course. The urban sprawl of Tucson and Phoenix in particular made my heart sink. I was living what McPhee had described—learning about the importance of building community by partnering with diverse stakeholders. It wasn’t just talk. It was about crafting solutions based on community needs, desires, and dreams…Dreams I learned from ranchers like Kaia Barnes who wanted to keep places like the San Rafael valley open for cattle and wildlife and free of suburban development. Westerners sometimes can be suspicious, especially of East Coasters from New York, but I was good at not only listening, sympathizing, but also laying out different points of view about conservation, development, and finding balance between the two. Over those three years, I worked in small Rocky Mountain communities to help build innovative partnerships between ranchers, miners, public land managers, and newcomers who honored the past but also tackled new development pressures in this fragile ecosystem. The time had come for me to go back to school to do more. Going to law school was the logical step for me given my interests in systems thinking, my love of writing, and my grandfather—a Yale lawyer—who had encouraged me to pursue a career in law.

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CHAPTER 4:

MORE LESSONS FROM THE ARCHDRUID.

My journey to law school brought me from the deserts of the American Southwest to the temperate rainforests of the Pacific Northwest. At the time, the biggest environmental battles were still playing out with environmentalists defending spotted owls against logging companies and communities who depended on these natural resources. These protracted battles epitomized why the environmental movement continued to fail time and time again. The environmentalists forgot about the people. Focusing only on land conservation didn’t quite square with my broader interests in water, collaboration, community, and sustainable development. So I set off and was determined to find an engaging law practice where I also could feel ethically proud of my clients; and in those days, San Francisco was the best place for me. At Farella, Braun + Martel, I learned how to marshal the evidence, make sense of complex science and law, and build and argue a persuasive case; this was the grit required of a young attorney. But ultimately, it was not the life I was looking for. I was solving other people’s problems. I wanted to be part of a larger mission that changed people’s lives and protected the places they loved. Working overseas in Thailand opened my eyes to our cultural differences as well as our common human behavior. As an environmental lawyer for USAID Eco-Asia, I worked to bridge the gap and strengthen environmental compliance and enforcement in seven Southeast Asian countries. Great laws on the books, but weak enforcement. We’d bring in the experts from U.S. EPA, and the Asian environmental agencies politely nodded their heads. It wasn’t until we brought environmental inspectorate peers from Asia to share their best practices that our work started to stick, started to matter. Messengers matter in this complex dance to find balance between protection of our natural world and sustainable living. CHAPTER 5:

COMING HOME TO THE GREAT LAKES.

I first came to the Great Lakes because of my sweetheart’s Michigan roots 21 years ago. I loved those lakes the minute I stood at their shore, gazing into the vast and mesmerizing blue/green/ turquoise water that seemed to have no end. The sandy beaches and the serenity of this place reminded me of my own childhood summers with cousins on Nantucket. Pete and I had been charting our journey together from Portland, Oregon forward, but we always came back to Michigan every summer. It was the one constant as we made big moves from San Francisco to Thailand and then to Pennsylvania. I was in search of aligning my passion and legal skills and I had no idea what it would look like until one gray November day on my reconnaissance trip to Traverse City when I met Jim Olson by chance, and who I soon realized was one of the most prominent environmental attorneys and thinkers in the country. He drew me in immediately, as he explained his vision for launching this new nonprofit, For Love of Water. We would be thinking about some of the most important issues in the 21st century: how to protect and steward our water in the face of climate change, extraordinary population growth, increasing water scarcity, competition, and pollution. I was in 150%. The global significance of the Great Lakes hit me hard. Representing 95% of our nation’s fresh water, these inland seas would average 9.5 feet deep if they were spread over the contiguous 48 states.

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Over the six years I’ve been here in the Great Lakes, I think back to the lessons from the Archdruid: Victories are hard won. And the corollary is also true. Defeat hurts. In early April this year I felt that loss. The state had approved Nestle’s permit for bottled water despite our compelling scientific and legal arguments, despite 500 citizens at the public hearing, despite 80,000 opposing public comments. Only 75 comments favored Nestle. I remember coming home that night utterly depressed. All that hard scientific and legal work coupled with intense public opinion and support and it fell on deaf ears. For a fleeting moment, I pondered the unthinkable: giving up. And then I thought a little more. I thought about Jim Olson as lead attorney for the Michigan Citizens for Water Conservation and how they together had spent nine years of their lives fighting Nestle. They hadn’t won everything but their fight mattered and they had persevered even when times were tough. And then I started thinking more about the hundreds of thousands of people of Flint and Detroit and the suffering and loss that they continue to experience, and it helped me remember why we must continue to fight. These difficult moments also serve to reframe my life-work balance. I try hard to place my husband and my family first, recognizing the fleeting nature of our existence. And sometimes I know it doesn’t seem like this especially for my children, Ella and Miles, who are dragged to countless events, protests, marches, film screenings, and more. But they let me know that they are proud of my work to protect water. Only several years ago, my son, Miles, at age six reflected on this and asked me point blank: “Mom, what are you going to do after you save the water?” I laughed, and just smiled at my son’s sweet innocence and faith that I could single-handedly accomplish this heroic work! I am grateful to countless people who I know and who I don’t know. I am touched when people come up to me and thank me for my work. But honestly, I don’t know what else I could do but this life work that helps people restore their connection to water and nature. A love for nature translates into a love for ourselves, for others, and for our community. Nature teaches us beauty, inspiration, patience, respect, and most of all the interconnectedness of life. There is no beginning or end; it is one cycle. And protecting water as one cycle will bring water security, resilience, and prosperity to both our natural and human communities. My story is still writing itself, finding new questions, new answers as I explore, connect, and learn from amazing people and places here in the Great Lakes where some 20 percent of the planet’s fresh surface water exists. How can that really be? I am in awe. I am in wonder as I contemplate the vastness and extraordinary nature of these inland seas. I have finally found a place I can call home. And I can dream of no better place.

WHAT CAN YOU FIND IN YOUR LIFE THAT IS SO IMPORTANT THAT, EVEN WHEN YOU LOSE, YOU WILL NOT GIVE UP? CHALLENGE:

If it’s true, that “they have lived in the problem they are solving, and they have a deep sense of mission” then my challenge would be for you to look around—maybe the solution to your search for purpose is right in front of you. You are living in it.


6 GREAT LAKES ISSUES TO CARE ABOUT NOW (AND HOW!) Our Great Lakes have a way of arousing a true spirit of protection and pride in each of us. They are crucial to our wellbeing and to our spirits (think of that last walk or swim you took at a Great Lake). Liz Kirkwood, executive director at FLOW shares ways you can defend and protect these magnificent bodies of water. In her words... WATER JUSTICE FOR ALL It makes no sense that a corporation like Nestle is free to extract millions of gallons of Michigan spring water every year, pay virtually nothing to compensate the public, and sell it in plastic bottles for annual profits in the hundreds of millions of dollars. At the same time, drinking water utility customers in Detroit, Flint and elsewhere are socked with huge bills for water service and have their water shut off. FLOW is partnering with diverse nonprofits across the state to ensure everyone has access to safe, affordable drinking water by tackling Michigan’s water infrastructure crisis. Part of this work includes FLOW’s proposed water justice legislation to right this imbalance, capturing royalties from spring water extraction and devoting the revenue to low-income service assistance in impacted communities, investments in modernized and upgraded public water systems, replacement of existing lead service lines, and more. CLIMATE CHANGE Climate change and its profound disruptions to the water cycle is arguably the greatest existential threat of our time. Climate change is warming the Great Lakes region faster than the U.S. average, according to a 2019 report commissioned by Environmental Law and Policy Center. Climate-related impacts (seen and unseen) in our water-rich region include increased algal blooms, declining drinking water quality, heavy precipitation and flooding, extreme weather, increased air temperatures, shoreline erosion, decreased crop yields, and loss of habitat for aquatic species. To address these climate risks, leadership across all sectors in business and government is vital alongside a commitment and stewardship ethic from the 35 million people who call the Great Lakes home. Small changes in our daily routines, for example, can add up to big collective impacts when it comes to offsetting our carbon and freshwater footprint. Here are just a few ways you can do your part: • C OMMIT TO WALKING OR BIKING AT LEAST ONE DAY A WEEK. If distance or weather does not permit, choose public transportation or carpool with friends and coworkers. • I NVEST IN GREEN TECHNOLOGY. This can be as simple as switching to energy efficient light bulbs or even more impactful by purchasing an electric car. This not only decreases greenhouse gas emissions, but reduces your total energy consumption, which can often require intensive amounts of freshwater resources to produce. • C ONTACT YOUR ELECTED OFFICIALS: Our elected representatives need to hear regularly from you as their constituent. Write or call to let them know your concerns about climate change impacts, and encourage them to vote for green and blue initiatives. GROUNDWATER PROTECTION: THE SIXTH GREAT LAKE Water beneath Michigan’s land surface supplies drinking water to 45% of Michigan’s population and as much as 40% of the volume of the Great Lakes. But everything from toxic chemicals like PFAS, to human waste from failing septic systems, to nitrate pollution from fertilizer and animal waste, has fouled our groundwater and threatens human health. FLOW has released a report calling for laws and rules that better protect this precious, life-giving resource and is working to implement its report policy

recommendations. You can help care for our groundwater resources by eliminating toxic lawn fertilizers, planting native and bee-friendly plants, building a rain garden, or maintaining your septic system by regular inspections. GREAT LAKES COMPACT Concerned about the threat of water raids by states to the west, the Great Lakes states enacted a compact in 2008 that banned most exports and diversions out of the Lakes. But the potential exists for large diversions due to Compact loopholes. FLOW is working to close these loopholes and to win permanent protections for the Lakes. LINE 5 The 66-year-old twin petroleum pipes that cross the Straits of Mackinac underwater pose an imminent threat to the Great Lakes. A spill from these antiquated pipelines would have a catastrophic impact on the ecology of the lakes and an estimated $6.3 billion impact on Michigan’s economy. FLOW’s legal and policy expertise is critical in this, working to shut down the pipelines with Oil & Water Don’t Mix Partners, by marshaling its legal and policy expertise. PLASTIC POLLUTION AND BEACH CLEANUPS If some of these issues seem too massive for an individual to affect, (they’re not) there’s also direct action. Great Lakes beaches are afflicted by pollution and debris such as balloons, cigarette butts, and microplastics. FLOW invites interested persons to drop by our offices and pick up your do-it-yourself Beach Cleanup kits and our Get Off the Bottle gear. Eliminating single-use plastics is good for you and good for the planet. For 100 ways to eliminate plastic from your daily life and prevent plastic from entering into our Great Lakes check out myplasticfreelife.com. Get involved! Find out more about FLOW (For Love of Water) and how you can support their mission of empowering communities and leaders to protect the Great Lakes at flowforwater.org. Liz Kirkwood is an environmental lawyer and the executive director at FLOW. // David Weidner is a commercial and landscape photographer who resides in the Northwoods of Michigan.

ORIGIN STORIES Liz first shared the tale of her life’s path to become executive director at FLOW at Fulfillament, a Traverse City storytelling event where five local leaders and entrepreneurs take the stage to tell how they found fulfillment through vocation—the inside story. Each storyteller issues a challenge for the audience to do something to find fulfillment in their own lives. A $500 grant is awarded to an audience member with a good idea that needs some help to get it started. fulfillamentstories.com NEXT UP: October 3rd, 2019 @6:30PM / City Opera House, Traverse City STORYTELLERS: Casey Cowell, Boomerang Catapult Seth Bernard, Singer/ Songwriter Krista Cain, Sweetwater Doula Jennifer Lyon, Table Health / Pure Health Gladys Muñoz, Justice and Peace Advocacy Center

Fulfillament is created and hosted by Chelsea Bay Dennis of The Conscious Entrepreneur and Shea Petaja, sheapetaja.com.

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LIFE IS SWEET HERE ON LONG LAKE ROAD. HOW MOOMERS HOMEMADE ICE CREAM WENT FROM FAMILY BUSINESS TO HOLY COW...

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JON WALKING THE FARM

BECKY & JON

BOB IN MILK PRODUCTION


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t’s 9:08 on a hot summer morning, and already a line is queueing in the Moomers parking lot. The open sign hangs dark in the window, the doors are locked, yet people mill about, waiting. Of course, the Moomers team has been here for ages. Patriarch Bob Plummer arrived at the adjacent barn around dawn to milk the 16 cows. He’ll be back again at 5 p.m. to milk them again. Inside the shop, a contingent of workers has been churning ice cream for hours. They’ve also been pinting it, separating out restaurant and special-occasion orders, and, of course, building cookies and cakes and sundry ice cream novelties. What was intended to be a small operation when it launched 22 years ago hit its stride rather quickly. Today, Moomers has a whopping 160 flavors—20 of which are available daily—and a massive fanbase. On this July day, they expect 2,000 people will visit the store. In the front of the house are the scoopers; in the back are the technicians responsible for making roughly 48 2.5-gallon tubs of ice cream a day. The scoopers have seen it all, and they know what goes into Cow Tracks versus Bear Paw. “Ice cream makers are former ice cream scoopers,” says Jon Plummer who, along with parents Bob and Nancy and sister Becky Mead, is co-owner of Moomers Homemade Ice Cream and Moomers Farm Creamery. “You need to know that half of the job to perform this half of the job.” Once the ice cream is mixed and made, it’s flash-frozen. The faster ice cream is frozen, the less time water molecules have to get together and make ice crystals, which would disrupt Moomers creamy texture.

Despite being dairy farmers, ice cream was not the Plummers’ lifelong plan. Nancy Plummer built her career in education, spending 26 years as a first-grade teacher. But, by the mid-nineties, she was done. She wanted something outside of education that would satisfy her, and maybe incorporate some creativity too. An ice cream shop sounded like a good idea. Moomers launched in 1998 to service “this side of town,” says Jon, meaning the west side, just past where Traverse City’s suburban neighborhoods begin to skew toward farmland. The family wanted a small, quaint, mostly seasonal ice cream company that would employ six to eight kids. Now, 22 years on, Moomers has 25 full-time employees, does catering, sells to restaurants, and is 50-50 retail and wholesale. Moomers made 4,200 gallons of ice cream in the first year in business. This year, they expect to clear 90,000 gallons. Moomers true tipping point came 10 years in, in 2008, when the company was featured on Good Morning America, after customers had nominated it for the morning show’s Good Scoop Challenge. Moomers made the top 10 cut, then into the top four. Then, on the Friday of Memorial Day Weekend, a GMA producer phoned to inform the Plummers that Moomers

had won and, oh, by the way, a crew would be there to film the announcement at 5:30 a.m. the next day—hours before the shop was set to open; before even Bob Plummer would be in the barn with the cows. The Plummers sprang into action and invited anyone willing to brave the hour for a free 6 a.m. ice cream. They got hundreds of takers. That award may have been what made Moomers famous, but it didn’t change the way they do business. While their fan base certainly exploded, the Moomers ice cream parlor remains the same 2,000-square-foot retail space Bob Plummer built himself in 1998. Wife Nancy and kids Jon and Becky handle the ice cream. The senior Plummer has since largely returned to his farming business and the cows.

About those cows: Interestingly, the dairy and the ice cream business are kept distinct from one another. Precious little of the cream and milk from the dairy next door is actually used in Moomers ice cream business, which is how it has been since the start. When Moomers was launched in ’98, the Plummers were milking around 18 to 20 cows. At the time, that would have been enough milk to service the business—though certainly not today. What they didn’t have, however, was a plant for pasteurizing, processing, and finishing the dairy. So, they went searching for a perfect mix, and had tasting and testing parties to cull the competition. In the end, they settled on a premium mix from London’s Dairy out of Port Huron. London’s has since been sold and resold, and today is owned by Country Fresh. Meanwhile, Moomers has become one of the largest purchasers of the mix—milk, cream, sugar, and stabilizer—in the state. Nine years ago, the Plummers did open the creamery next door, but given the massive quantities of mix they use, they still rely on that outside source. Instead, the majority of the milk and cream produced next door goes to Boss Mouse Cheese in Kingsley. Come winter, when they do have surplus cream and milk, they make ice cream mix in house and freeze it for later use. The ice cream shop may not be on a direct pipeline from the dairy, but Moomers ice cream is remarkably fresh. Nothing—not the Butter Pecan or Cow Tracks; not Super Moo or Lemon Dream, and certainly not the Moomers exclusive trademarked Cherries Moobilee—sits around long. The Long Lake Road location simply doesn’t have the space to warehouse ice cream. Instead, every morning, Becky Plummer processes the orders from the wholesale accounts, counts the number of units per flavor, and schedules the day’s production schedule by flavor. Ice-cream making begins every morning around 7 and continues until enough of each flavor is batched to fill the orders at hand. No more, no less. Most batches are made only the day before they are delivered to a retail account—or to the Moomers counter. Shoot, Moomers even makes their own cardboard tubs for the ice cream. Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | AUG '19

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Naturally, there are favorites. While it’s the Butter Pecan the Plummers think is exceptional, the top selling flavors for 2018 were Caramel Sea Salt, Butter Pecan, Cookies and Cream, Chocolate Peanut Butter Chunk, Coffee Toffee, Mint Chocolate Chip, SuperMoo, and, of course, Cherries Moobilee, which always comes in at first place. It was dad, Bob, who was responsible for that unintentional creation. When he still used to wander over and make ice cream, 15 or so years ago, he was batching some black cherry. Sitting on the counter next to him was a batch of brownies and a pitcher of chocolate swirl. Instead of putting the extra ingredients away, he dumped both into the black cherry mix, put a lid on it, and threw it in the freezer. Without a label. To name the concoction, the Plummers held a contest, with the winner earning a free pint of the flavor of his choice and a half-gallon of the newly-named Cherries Moobilee. Early on, they sold about three batches of the flavor a year; after it appeared in the GMA award as Moomers’ signature flavor, popularity soared. Today, during high season, they make four to five batches a day. But you’d better believe the Plummers never stop playing with their food. New flavors are dreamed up frequently. Some make it, some—like the Asparagus Swirl ice cream for the annual festival in Empire—are short lived. (Yes, it tastes about as good as it sounds, admits Jon.) But Jon and Nancy and Becky hit their happy place here on Long Lake Road, and judging from the line of people pouring through their open doors, up to the counter and outside to enjoy their scoops as morning light seeps over the farm, they seem to have struck their own brand of gold. When Julie H. Case isn’t writing about travel, wine, or weird science, she can be found deep in America’s forests, foraging for mushrooms, which she blogs about at soIgather.com. @julieHcase www.julieHcase.com // Jon-Paul Allgaier photographs lifestyle, food, product and weddings from his base in Traverse City. greyscalegroup.net.

MORE MOOS FOR LESS MOOMERS LOVES A GOOD PROMOTION. HERE ARE THREE WAYS TO SCORE SPECIALS: HAVE A BIRTHDAY PARTY: Order a birthday cake and it comes with a card and a coupon for a free cone. GROW A LITTLE OLDER: Come in to Moomers on your birthday and they’ll give you your age as a percentage discount for your order only. While 18-year-olds may shrug, 81-year-olds will be thrilled. Last summer, a 103-year-old made money on her small cone. YES, CUT-SIES: Every year on opening day (March 1) Moomers hands out one “golden ticket” to each patron. Redemption gets you one trip to the front of the line, no questions asked, during the summer rush.

—TOP SELLING FLAVORS FOR 2018

Moomers Homemade Ice Cream and Moomers Farm Creamery 7263 N. Long Lake Rd., Traverse City, 231.941.4122, moomers.com

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THE INTERLOCHEN DIARIES WE CRACK OPEN A REAL-DEAL JOURNAL (DEEP-CUTS, DOODLES AND ALL) FROM WRITER MOLLY KORROCH AND FIND OUT WHAT IT’S REALLY LIKE TO COME OF AGE AT ONE OF THE MOST RENOWNED ARTS CAMPS IN THE WORLD. HINT: DRAMA, HEARTACHE AND BLUE KNICKERS REQUIRED. EXCERPTS AND DRAWINGS BY MOLLY KORROCH

Interlochen is in the family. My mom, aunt, sister and cousin each attended Interlochen as campers, counselors, academy students, or—in my sister’s case—an assistant set painter for the high school musical. I visited Interlochen for the first time when I was nine years old. My family and I were Up North for our annual vacation and we decided to attend that year’s production of the Gilbert and Sullivan Operetta: The Mikado. I remember standing outside the Melody Freeze—the little café on the main campus where campers and visitors can gorge on ice cream, pizza, and the signature Melody Freeze—a slushie stuffed with vanilla soft-serve. A woman glanced my way as I ate my ice cream and asked if I planned on attending camp. No way. I didn’t want to be away from home for eight weeks. The adults all laughed. My first summer at camp was two years later. In total, I spent four summers at Interlochen Summer Arts Camp, making friends, auditioning, singing funny camp songs and silly musical theater songs, making phones calls with a phone card, and loving those navy blue corduroy knickers. While at camp, I got to see performers like Norah Jones, Ben Folds, Van Cliburn, Capitol Steps and Bernadette Peters alongside camp ensembles, performances, and galleries. Of course, I always brought my journal. And my mom always equipped me with a disposable camera—or four. These are my memories...

on how I should get out there. And I’ve got a negative energy and stuff. And that I should talk to our director. Because it seems like I don’t care. I’ve wanted to. But, I don’t know. Any time I get close, I just don’t. And my throat is dying. It’s really killing me. But I can’t tell if it’s just out of practice or if something is physically wrong.

So many Interlochen students will tell you that the magic of the place is in not being alone. There’s solidarity in caring too much about the same thing as your peers. To kids back home, that might be sports or video games. For us, it was art.

Summer camp holds extremely vivid moments for me—hearing Gustav Holst’s ‘The Planets’ and seeing the legendary American pianist Van Cliburn play. I have this theory that we all come into the world as the most potent versions of ourselves. When we’re kids, we are zealots to our causes, and when I was a kid my cause was musical theater.

A couple of days ago… I got one of the most amazing care packages ever to be received from Maddie and Missy. It’s so fabulous. They are like… custom fit friends. The package included: ­• Two letters. One from Maddie, the other from Missy. They were inside a mini Chinese take-out box along with a: ­• Lucky pig ­• The incomplete book of cat names. (Ironic, because we had just started a scene from Cats.) ­• A pack of NINE Ferrero Rochers ­• A mix CD ­ • Various rap stuff ­• Panic! At the Disco ­• Color Spectrum Song ­ • Sue Me ­ • Fall Out Boy ­• And other amazingly fabulous crap ­• The July issue of Vogue ­• Disposable camera they found in Colonial Williamsburg with seven pictures left

2:40 p.m. / Elementary school gym We are going through listening to people’s solos and small groups and stuff. I don’t have one. And I have been okay with it and everything. But Jeremy’s been going on about getting out there and everything. And then another girl in the program gave me this long talk

It took me a few years to realize that performance people are generally nuts. (I don’t feel too bad saying that, because they’re the first to admit it and I was one for so long. My undergraduate degree is a Bachelor of Music in Vocal Performance.) Post musical theater frenzy, I went the classical route. Over time, I realized that my true love is a good story told well. Sometimes I wonder what would have happened if I’d chosen writing for my major at Interlochen

July 10 / 11:30-ish a.m. / Harvey movement room I went to WYSO (World Youth Symphony Orchestra) last night, it was amazing! They played ‘The Planets.’ My favorites were Mars, Jupiter, and Neptune. I think overall Neptune was my favorite.

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e r ts ! Co n c

Corduroy knicker love!

of inutes 6 00 m m e1 calls ho phone

m e! That’s

Ou r r ide.

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instead of musical theater. I remember talking with my parents about it after I’d had the following conversation with my director: July 7, 2006 / 9:01 a.m. / Classroom in elementary school So he [the director] said, ‘So, you don’t have a solo.’ Which is true. I am the only one in the whole show who doesn’t have a moment where I sing by myself. Then he said, ‘Did you want one?’ And I said, ‘Nope.’ And he said, ‘Oh, okay.’ That’s what I thought because every time I asked you to sing, you looked like, ‘Oh God, not me!’ so…’ And I was like, yup. You’re right. And I told him how my voice is freaking out. And I told him that I didn’t really want a solo because I really wanted to be working on other stuff, and I didn’t want to kill my voice and that I didn’t want people to think that was the best I can do.

However, a hallmark of my personality is my determination. I was determined that I would do this and do it well. Better than anybody else. I tried so hard and fell flat on my face. Camp is hard. For the performers and musicians, the first couple of days are auditions. Even then, your scene can get cut. You can be replaced. I decided that it would be better to fail privately than in front of everyone. (To any naysayers: I promise you, I’ve failed dramatically and publicly many times since.)

July 11, 2006 / 3:35 p.m. / Elementary school gym

I wish I had been taking dance lessons since I was really little. My film teacher told me that I look good on film though. Maybe I have a future there.

I remember once sitting on the beach at night along with all the other girls in my group. I can’t quite remember if it was Juniors or Intermediates or High School, but there was a bonfire and we all sang our silly songs together. I remember looking up and I could see the moon and ragged clouds. I have no idea why I remember this so clearly, but I thought, “That’s a witch’s moon.” Something about the tangledness of the clouds made it look so mysterious and inspiring to me and to the rest of us girls sitting cross-legged on the beach in oversized Interlochen sweatshirts.

My bunk / 10:13 p.m. What a night. Me, Hailey, Joey, and Adele, and Kristen had a conversation. Like one of those really good really amazing ones that you hope you’ll never forget. I’ve been so busy lately. It’s crazy here. And I knew that. But I’m learning a lot..

A few years later, when I made the difficult decision to officially give up performing, my voice teacher asked me if I would regret all of the seemingly lost time. I said no. Pursuit of the arts is always worth it. It is the simultaneous pursuit and practice of so many things: cooperation, constructive criticism, creativity, patience, and perhaps the most important, the practice of practice. These skills helped me realize that I wanted to write my own stories. And I must believe that knowing the harmonies to a choral arrangement of Bohemian Rhapsody serves me well in life. At the very least, I’ll have a killer memoir. Molly Korroch is a journalist currently based in Suttons Bay. Visit her website at mollyhunterkorroch.com or follow her @mollykorroch.

Hard truths and realizations aside, I discovered much about myself at camp. To be good at performance art, you must care more about it than all other things. As is the nature of the beast and of teenagers, I couldn’t bring myself to fit that mold, as much as I wanted to.

Okay. News. Day before yesterday at the dunes, a guy asked me out. It was kind of embarrassing. His name is Albert. Alice had a crush on him. (P.S. I hate the word ‘pop.’) So did Jessica. SIGH. Well, I said N-O. So he asked out Jessica instead.

There’s a sweet nostalgia that comes over us all on the final days of camp. Hustling through performances and spending the nights staying up later than we’re supposed to—whispering in our bunks and scratching our names on the walls of our cabins. I learned the words to Simon & Garfunkel’s 59th Street Bridge because it was written on the back of a toilet stall door: I’ve got no deeds to do, no promises to keep. I’m dappled and drowsy and ready to sleep. Let the morning-time drop all its petals on me. Life, I love you, all is groovy. And among my favorite memories of camp are the campier ones. Trips to Sleeping Bear, mixers with other cabins or—gasp!—the boys’ side…

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FRESHWATER FAMILY THE SKROCKIS WELCOME PEOPLE FROM AROUND THE WORLD INTO A CLOSE-KNIT SURFING COMMUNITY IN THE TINY LAKE MICHIGAN VILLAGE OF EMPIRE, JUST LIKE THEY’VE ALWAYS BELONGED. STORY BY EMILY HOPCIAN // PHOTOS BY BETH PRICE

ELLA SKROCKI LOADS UP BOARDS AT SLEEPING BEAR SURF AND KAYAK IN EMPIRE. 64

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T

he warmth of Sleeping Bear Surf & Kayak in Empire is more than its daffodil-yellow doors and the natural light that pours through the shop’s large windows. The heart and soul—the true warmth—of the shop has everything to do with those who work there. There’s a humble genuineness about Sleeping Bear Surf & Kayak, one that seems lost in most places these days. But here, in small-town Northern Michigan, this holds firm. (Plus, who doesn’t love a shop with a dog? From my first visit several years ago, I remember meeting Mimi, Sleeping Bear Surf & Kayak’s adorable, scruffy shop dog—and a member of the Skrocki family.) On a Wednesday morning in early August, I meet up with Ella Skrocki, daughter of Beryl and Frank Skrocki, the founders of Sleeping Bear Surf & Kayak, at the trailhead of the Empire Bluff Trail. She greets me with a hug and introduces me to her dog, Lela. Ella is a free spirit, intentionally moving in the direction of that which matters most to her, that which makes her feel alive. She’s pursued, caught and made waves out in California, at Northern Michigan University in Marquette, throughout Latin America on a road trip with Lela and beyond. She’s also surfed countless waves in Empire. Ella exudes a contagious energy for freshwater surfing, the Great Lakes, Northern Michigan and life in general. As Ella interacts with people on the trail—both those she knows and those she doesn’t—I can’t help but feel as though she’s the Queen of Empire. (I think she’d cringe at that statement.) She’s warm, welcoming and confident. She’s social. Because Empire is so small, it almost feels as though Ella and her family are more than simply owners of the local surf shop—and they are. The Skrockis are people who care for other people. They care about sharing Northern Michigan and Lake Michigan with other people—and teaching others to respect and be safe in the water. There’s a magnetic energy to the Skrockis, and I think it has everything to do with the fact that they live life based on their passions. I can imagine it hasn’t always been—and, at times, still isn’t— easy, but there’s a richness of spirit that comes with finding their true north.

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ELLA SKROCKI HEADS TO THE WATER TO PLAY

THE FAMILY’S HOME BEACH— LAKE MICHIGAN BEACH IN EMPIRE

REISS SKROCKI PROVES THAT YOU CAN SURF LAKE MICHIGAN

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IT’S ALWAYS BEEN ABOUT SHARING THEIR LOVE FOR THE WATER AND THE FUN THAT COMES WITH FRESHWATER ADVENTURES.

Beryl Skrocki has rarely spent a summer away from Northern Michigan. Growing up, she, her parents and five siblings would spend June through August at the cottage her parents built in Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. Once she had a family of her own, Beryl, her husband, Frank, and their three kids, Ella, Reiss and Annabel, would do the same. Every year, once school was out for the summer, the Skrockis packed their car, left their home in Chelsea, Michigan, and drove Up North, staying until school was back in session again. With the birth of Annabel, their third and youngest daughter, the Skrockis outgrew their house in Chelsea and started looking for a bigger home in the area. After searching and failing to find a home within their budget in their ideal location, Beryl and Frank decided to make what many considered a bold move. “We were like, ‘Let’s just totally mix it up and move to where we escape every single weekend,’ ” Beryl says. Frank sold his business in Ann Arbor, and the family sold both their house in Chelsea and their “fixer-upper” in Arcadia. “We packed a U-Haul and moved up here,” Beryl says. “That’s when a lot of our friends thought we were nuts, but we knew we’d make something happen.” Frank got a job with the Leelanau Outdoor Center before landing a job at ProAct Services in Ludington, where he still works today. Beryl worked seasonal jobs at Cherry Republic in Glen Arbor and a general store in Sleeping Bear Dunes. It was during that time she began to give thought to opening a freshwater surf shop in Empire. In her downtime, on walks on the beach, Beryl would look out at kayakers along the coast. Nostalgia for her summers spent living in the water, not just on its periphery, rushed to the surface. “I’d just spend every minute out on the lake in our little rowboat body surfing, sailing, windsurfing.” Little wheels started to turn in her mind. “I wanted to share my love for the area and my love for the big lake with others,” she says. Around this time, Beryl was also interested in surfing. “I tried to buy a surfboard and couldn’t find a place to buy one, so I thought, ‘Maybe I’ll just buy a fleet of surfboards,’ ” she says. And that she did. In 2004, two summers after the Skrockis relocated to Northern Michigan, Beryl, Frank, Ella, Reiss and Annabel opened Sleeping Bear Surf & Kayak in Empire. “We took all of our earnings from the sale of our house in Arcadia and put it straight into the shop,” Beryl says. “It was 100 percent a leap of faith in a big, big way.” For some, the freshwater surf shop made complete sense. It left many others scratching their heads. During

those first summers, the Skrockis spent a bulk of their conversations with customers explaining what the store was all about. Were people really surfing the Great Lakes? “Honestly, it was just a smattering of people,” Beryl says. “It’s changed so much it kind of makes my head spin. It’s pretty cool that this crazy little idea has blossomed in that way.” With Frank working in Ludington—a job that pays the family’s mortgage and keeps food on the table—Beryl believes part of Sleeping Bear Surf & Kayak’s success is that it was never about the money. Since Sleeping Bear Surf & Kayak is family owned and operated, Ella, Reiss and Annabel have grown up working in the store. Ella started working in the shop when she could see over the counter. “I wholeheartedly love the store,” she says. “It’s not only a fun work environment, but it’s also shaped my life. I definitely would not be the person I am today without this business.” Now in her 20s, Ella feels a greater sense of responsibility with the shop not only because she wants to let Beryl relax more but also because it means so much to her. It’s terrifying to imagine it not being in her life. “Mom keeps telling me, ‘The moment you stop coming back and stop working in the shop, it’s shutting down,’ ” Ella says. So, alongside her siblings, she’s tried to put all of her time and energy into taking on more roles and trying to make it a more sustainable business. Ella, Reiss and Annabel all work in the store as well as out on the water, teaching lessons and leading camps. As the siblings play a bigger role in the day-to-day operations, long-term planning and fuse their own ideas into Sleeping Bear Surf & Kayak’s future, Beryl is starting to take a step back. Owning and operating the store hasn’t been without its challenges for the Skrockis. Sleeping Bear Surf & Kayak was founded on the family’s stoke for freshwater adventures and wanting to share that with others. However, sharing that passion and excitement with others often means the Skrockis don’t have time to get out on the water, or do anything, as a family. “It’s actually a really rare occasion that we can all get together and go do the things that we love and that we promote and that we allow other people to enjoy with their families,” Ella says. Still, what the Skrockis have gained and continue to gain is far greater than these challenges. A benefit they value most? The way the shop has brought people with similar values and lifestyles together and grown rich, deep friendships and community. “Our closest friends are because of this business,” Ella says. “The majority of my friends are part of the surf community.” Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | AUG '19

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That community has grown organically through the shop itself as well as through lessons, camps and other events hosted by Sleeping Bear Surf & Kayak. Right now, the store offers two camps every summer: Sleeping Bear Xtreme Waterman Camp and Ladies Shred Camp. “The Waterman Camp, our kids’ camp, is so much fun,” Ella says. “Every day we do something depending on the weather. It’s designed from a lesson my parents taught us growing up.” No matter the weather, the Skrocki children were always doing something outside. No matter the weather, there’s always some type of fun to be had. It’s a lesson that Ella, Reiss and Annabel carry with them still, and through the camp, they want to teach kids the adaptability they learned as children, to embrace whatever is thrown their way. And of course, forging a livelihood that’s based on the whims and weather of the Great Lakes means coming to respect the lakes. “More often than not, people who visit or even live in this area take the lake for granted or underestimate its power,” Ella says. “So for kids, it’s especially important to understand that the lake is a force that’s not to be messed with, that it’s so unpredictable. We hope this camp teaches them to respect the lake in that aspect, to keep them out of harm’s way and also to take care of this playground.” Sleeping Bear Surf & Kayak’s newest camp, the Ladies Shred Camp, is based on similar principles of adaptability and embracing the cards you’re dealt—be it the weather or something else in life. As Ella says, “I hope these women also find empowerment through surfing, standup paddle boarding, yoga or whatever it is we practice that day and with the support of other women. I hope these things expand or enhance their ability to deal with whatever life throws at them in a healthy fashion. I love being able to watch people succeed. To provide a toy for somebody and then watch them come back feeling on top of the world because they tried something new, had a blast and saw the lake from a different perspective, that’s so gratifying.” Beryl says, “While it’s ridiculously rewarding to sell somebody their first surfboard or their first skateboard or whatever it is, I just love meeting people, talking to them, introducing them to fun stuff, introducing them to our area—this area and lake that I’ve loved since I was a little girl.” For the Skrockis, it’s always been about sharing their love for the water and the fun that comes with freshwater adventures. That is the contagious quality of the shop and what they do. Spend more than a few seconds with any of the Skrockis—on the big lake, if you’re lucky—and you can’t help but be drawn into the magic, light and positive energy that surrounds that love for their true north. Emily Hopcian is an Argentina-based writer with a focus on outdoor adventure and social and environmental impact storytelling. emilyhopcian.com // Beth Price takes photographs that reflect her passion for a healthy, active and adventurous lifestyle. She is based in Traverse City. bethpricephotography.com

LEFT: BERYL, ANNABELLE, ELLA (WITH LELA), REISS (WITH MIMI) AND FRANK SKROCKI AFLOAT OFF SLEEPING BEAR POINT

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | AUG '19

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MIMI GREETS CUSTOMERS IN FRONT OF THE SHOP

VIDEO Sleeping Bear from a helicopter. Gorgeous! MyNorth.com/sleepingbearvideo

BERYL SKROCKI

THE SIGN AT THE FAMILY COTTAGE IN EMPIRE— MUZZY WAS BERYL’S BELOVED MOTHER. 70

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HANG TEN ELLA SKROCKI’S TOP 5 TIPS FOR SURFING, SUP–ING, KAYAKING & MORE KNOW YOUR LIMITATIONS, AND RESPECT THE LAKE Start small. Go out in forgiving, manageable conditions and gain true confidence before allowing your ego to put you in a dangerous position. The lake is more powerful than you are. Identify your hazards before entering the water. PRACTICE PROPER ETIQUETTE It is vital to respect other surfers and paddlers. There is a surfers’ code that’s necessary to follow. Don’t drop in on others. Give surfers the right of way when paddling out. Practice proper board control. More respect and safety among those in the water will yield more positive energy in the lineup. GO OUT WITH THE PROPER GEAR Never enter the water without proper neoprene or attire to keep you warm, dependent on the conditions. Always paddle out with the necessary safety equipment. This includes leashes or life jackets, dependent on the surf craft—surfboard, SUP or kayak. PADDLE OUT WITH A BUDDY It is much safer and heaps of fun to paddle out with someone by your side. Whether paddling the coastline or a river or going out into the lake to surf, conditions on the Great Lakes can change very quickly. It’s important to have someone with you if and when they do. STUDY THE FORECAST AND COASTLINE We live in such an abundantly rich place in terms of bodies of water and the shape of our coastline. When itching to paddle or surf, study the wind and weather to determine where the best places to paddle out are. Your options are endless. Put some time and energy into studying weather patterns, go on a surf safari, strike out a couple of times. When you find a clean wave all to yourself, your session will be that much more rewarding.

ANNABELLE SKROCKI ABOARD SLEEPING BEAR SURF & KAYAK TRUCK.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | AUG '19

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leaving a little wine in the bottle never hurt anybody, but I don’t want to risk it.

f ree tastings. on the wate r. al l sum me r l ong. @ l ee l an au ce l l ars w w w.l wc.w i n e


AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

For the Way You Live Up North

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GET IN TOUCH Kyle O’Grady, Realtor® Info: 833.BAY.LOTS

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15636 Bluff Road, Traverse City, MI, 49686


Volume 23

For the way you live Up North

Number 10

26

16

44

56

features

departments

15 Welcome to the 8th Annual Northern Home & Cottage Tour

16 Hangar Condo 26 Contemporary on Pickerel Lake 34 Handsome Neighbor 44 Setting Anchor

7 Editor’s Note Living it Up, Up North of Traverse City. 8 Northern Style Beach Grass, Beach Glass

11

Trends! Outdoor Heating.

52 Torch Lake, Sunset Side 56 Torch Lake, Sunrise Side

Click on Live Here >Home Ideas

Northern Home & Cottage

AUG | SEP ‘19

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AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

contents


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PERFECT PARTNERS A MyNorth Media Publication

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ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS

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EXCLUSIVELY AT

Subscriber Services Visit MyNorth.com/sub to change your address or to review your account. Please e-mail other subscription inquiries to info@mynorth.com or call 800.785.8632 between 10 a.m. and 8 p.m. EST. Reprints Reprints available. Please call 231.941.8174.

Northern Home & Cottage is published as a supplement to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine. 125 Park St., Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684 All rights reserved. Copyright 2019, Prism Publications Inc.

fabrication, service & design Traverse City • 231.929.2848 • stratusmarble.com Northern Home & Cottage

AUG | SEP ‘19

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Architecture is frozen music. Johann Wolfgang Von Goethe 1749 -1832

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editor’s note

West Michigan

of

Grand Rapids

Traverse City

SUNROOMS

The perfect addition to all homes & cottages

Living it Up, Up North I live in Leelanau County and work in Traverse City, so admittedly I am in those locales more than I am in the Petoskey region. But I keep a hard eye on that gorgeous Torch-Little Traverse area, and no more so than when I am working on the Petoskey Area Home Tour. I get up there plenty in the months before the tour, and not just passing through— getting to visit with folks in their homes who live there both part time and year round. And let me tell you, life above Traverse City is large. Start with stunning water from Little Traverse Bay to Pickerel, Walloon Lake to Charlevoix and Torch. Add the new American Viticultura Area (AVA) Petoskey Wine Region and the vineyards and tasting rooms that go with. Brew pubs are popping up everywhere including two in Boyne City alone—Stiggs and Boyne City Taproom. BC’s Cafe Sante is as authentic as any Euro bistro. The crepes at That French Place in Charlevoix transport you across The Pond, and don’t miss The Cantina tucked in the alley behind Bridge Street. And that’s just a taste. Throw in some fabulous trails, including the Little Traverse Wheelway that goes from Charlevoix to Harbor Springs (and back) and the new Charlevoix to Boyne City trail (still under construction). There’s so much more, including the fact that the landmarks Ernest Hemingway semifictionalized in his Nick Adams stories are all still there. And add to that some stunning new residential architecture—which we give you a peek of on our 2019 Northern Home & Cottage Tour. Check out our Tour Guide beginning on page 15. Use the guide to whet your appetite. Then get your ticket and meet us out there for a fabulous day—getting up close and personal with life Up North of Traverse City.

Our sunrooms, WeatherMaster® windows, decks and railings are designed for a worry-free experience. They are designed to extend your enjoyment of the outdoors without common annoyances like wind, rain, insects and harmful U.V. Rays. A Sunspace Sunroom, as well as our WeatherMaster® products will not only add beauty and comfort to any home or cottage, but also increase the value.

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Elizabeth Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home & Cottage. lissa@traversemagazine.com. Northern Home & Cottage

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1

4

3

5

7

6

SEA GRASS, BEACH GLASS BRING SUMMER’S BLUE HUES AND NATURAL VIBES INSIDE CURATED BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS AND GAIL SNABLE PHOTOS DAVID WEIDNER

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1. Hand-Woven Moroccan Lamp Shade: Rustic Roots, Leland, 231.256.0054, rusticrootsleland.com, $80 2. Beach Glass, Leland Blue, Michigan-shaped Petoskey Stone and Pearl Necklace: The Nature Connection, Elk Rapids, 231.264.6330, natureconnection-er.com, $61 3. Glass Fishing Float: Cellar 152, Elk Rapids, 231.264.9000, cellar152.com, $48 4. Glass Vases: At Home, Suttons Bay, 231.271.4664, athomesuttonsbay.com, Home Grown, $18; Flower Market, $21.60

8


10

11

12

9

13 5. Nautical Picture Frame: Tampico, Leland, FB, 231.256.7747, $28

10. Natural Fiber Purse: Haystacks, Leland, 231.256.9730, haystacks.net, $75

6. Emo Chair: At Home, Suttons Bay, 231.271.4664, athome-suttonsbay.com, $468

11. Natural Fiber Bag: Haystacks, Leland, 231.256.9730, haystacks.net, $59

7. Woven Wicker Wine Bottle Holder: River & Main, Leland, 231.256.8858, $9

12. Bottles of Beach Glass: Ginger Snaps, Elk Rapids, $19.99 each, FB, 231.264.8922

8. Driftwood Garland: Ginger Snaps, Elk Rapids, 231.264.8922, FB, $29.95

13. Natural Fiber BBQ set: River & Main, Leland, 231.256.8858, $40

9. Rattan Wrap and Water-Colored Glass Lamp: At Home, Suttons Bay, 231.271.4664, athome-suttonsbay.com, $108 Northern Home & Cottage

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trends!

WHAT'S HOT IN OUTDOOR HEATERS

By Elizabeth Edwards

WHO : JOSEPH WORTMAN, President of Detroit Radiant Products Company Tell me about your company: Detroit Radiant Products dates back to 1955. At that time, we were a manufacturer of heating products for the auto industry. Now fast forward 65 years. We are still owned and managed by the third generation of my family, only now with a global presence. Our headquarters is in Warren, Michigan, but we have operations in close to 20 countries. Our company offers many types of infrared heaters, forced air heaters and LED lighting solutions. One of our strengths is with outdoor infrared patio heating.

Fix-mounted as opposed to the kind that sit on the floor? Yes, those are called umbrella style heaters. They emit heat in a circular pattern. They are lower in cost and easy to move but they have big drawbacks including constantly needing their propane tanks refilled. They are also easy to trip on, can tip over easily, they block the sun and take up valuable floor space. Not to mention needing to store them in the off season. Your heaters come in both electric and natural/LP gas versions. Pros and cons of each? Gas is the most popular as it gives the most energy-bang for your buck while offering more coverage and better heat. The down side is that you need to consider emissions and make sure the unit is

Your heaters are used in both commercial and residential settings. What sets them apart from other outdoor patio heaters?

venting properly. You also need to plan for gas piping and electrical

Our heaters are fix-mounted and are typically hung from an over-

Our electric products are great. They heat a nice area and do it

head structure to heat a deck or patio. They ideally would be part of the design phase and drawn into the patio construction plans. We offer a variety of heater styles to fit the aesthetics of the space. Our heaters are also installed in high-profile golf ranges where people can tee off comfortably in 20-degree weather.

connections.

comfortably. You will need to make sure that your home is wired for the amount of electrical consumption they take. You also need to choose between short wave and medium wave. Short wave heat can be intense and also emits a bright light. This can challenge the ambiance of the space. The medium wave is a softer heat which is not Northern Home & Cottage

AUG | SEP ‘19

NHC11


as hot as the short wave but has a soft subtle orange glow. Beyond that, electric units are aesthetically very appealing. Any safety considerations? Yes, there always needs to be room to maintain the heaters clearances from combustible materials—things like wooden fans, sprinkler systems and lighting. The gasstyle products will require proper venting if the room can be sealed. How many square feet do these heaters cover? We typically try for about 150 BTUs per square foot. The average gas-fired heater covers an area of about 8 ft. x 8 ft. Our bigger heaters can cover about 12 ft. x 12 ft. But there will be exceptions to these coverages pending product selection and available mounting height. Typical mounting heights are from 9 to 14 feet high.

NASTY CRAWL SPACE?

Creating a longer patio season in Northern Michigan is pretty enticing. Can you give us an idea of the cost? Sure. Gas patio heaters run from $800 to $1600 per unit. Most residential patios utilize a single unit. Installation costs can vary depending on how much gas piping and electrical will be required to reach the heater. If electric-style heaters are desired, they can run from $300 to $800 per unit but generally you need more of them to cover the same size space as a gas-fired product. How can I find out more about them? To find our product offering or to locate a

877-DRY-MICH DryMich.com

ir ace Repa Crawl Sp ir on Repa Foundati n fi roo g t Waterp Basemen tection utter Pro G & rs e tt Gu

Northern Michigan’s LOCAL company 3805 Elmers Industrial Dr., Traverse City | 231-486-5100 12

MyNorth.com

distributor go to reverberray.com.


trends!

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Our design showrooms feature the largest collection of curated Northern Michigan style in the region. Our design consultants will serve up the hot space planning you crave.

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Northern Home & Cottage

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2019 Petoskey Area Northern Home & Cottage Tour Saturday September 14, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Once again, we’ve assembled two premier one-day home tours

Services of Northwestern Michigan. Established in the 1930s, this

in Northern Michigan, showcasing the work of the region’s finest

organization provides crucial services to the children and families

contractors and designers. Phase I, Northern Home & Cottage

of our region.

Petoskey Area Tour, is set for September 14, 2019. Join us to tour six

To find resources on our 2019 Northern Home & Cottage Tour

stunning homes in Harbor Springs, Petoskey, Boyne City and Torch

homes, please go to MyNorth.com/2019tour.

Lake. Tour highlights? The ultimate vacation pad tucked above your

Tickets (along with the tour map and driving directions) are

own private airplane hangar; a handsome rustic modern home that

$18 early bird (through August 14); $23 advance (until 4 p.m.

sets a new tone for a downtown neighborhood; two views of Torch

September 13); $24 at the door. To purchase tickets please go to

Lake living; a Boyne City charmer on Lake Charlevoix; and a con-

MyNorthTickets.com. For more information: 800.836.0717.

temporary farmhouse on Pickerel Lake. This tour is very doable in a day, but it helps to plan your route

SPONSORED BY

ahead of time. As always, we’ve kept the ticket prices low so if you can’t make it to all the homes, you’ll still find full value in your day. We are so grateful to the homeowners who have so generously opened their homes for this tour that benefits Child & Family

TOUR

1 3

4

6

5

PHASE ONE

2

COMING SOON! Phase II: Traverse Area 2019 Northern Home & Cottage Tour, Saturday October 19, from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Find information in your October/ November issue of Northern Home & Cottage or on MyNorth.com.

Northern Home & Cottage

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TOUR HOME

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MyNorth.com


LOCATION 7840 BAY SKIES COURT HARBOR SPRINGS DEVELOPER SULLIVAN’S HARBOR SPRINGS AIRPARK 586.945.7453 MGN-AIRPARK.COM

hangar condo Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Jacqueline Southby

Those who went on our 2018 Petoskey

commonly referred to as a hangar loft

hangar with a movie theater, dance floor,

Area Home Tour will remember the beau-

or condo. This cozy two-bedroom unit

bar with sleeping quarters for four, each

tiful Craftsman home with its own private

sits above a 2,200-square-foot tee-style

themed around airplanes (the Cessna, the

airplane hangar, set in Sullivan’s Harbor

hangar—big enough for your private plane

Piper, the Pilatus & the Lear…). When

Springs Airpark just outside of central

(or motorhome if you’d prefer) and on a

a plane isn’t in, the hangar opens into a

Harbor Springs. The Airpark is being devel-

private runway surrounded by a parklike

full-sized basketball court as well. Call it

oped by avid pilot and champion of great

setting of grass and trees. The exterior

“Entertainment Central” especially in the

design, Joseph Wortman, who is looking

of the condo has a graceful Craftsman

dead of winter.

to turn it into the premier fly-in develop-

aesthetic, while the hangar, with its softly

Of course, that’s only what you do when

ment in the Midwest. In so doing, Joe is

arched roofline and dark gray cedar siding,

you are home here. Set between Harbor

picking up the vision of Dr. Paul Sullivan

is a handsome piece of architecture in its

Springs and Petoskey, this home is a stone’s

who started Sullivan’s Airpark in the 1990s.

own right.

throw from great beaches and ski resorts.

After Paul’s passing, Joe teamed with Paul’s

The interior by Jacklitch has a soft indus-

So, yep, if you had this sweet nest of a place,

son, Paul Michael, builder Nick Fettig and

trial vibe. The living area and adjacent deck

your vacay would start from the moment

Meaghan Jacklitch of River West Design to

have a stellar view across Little Traverse

you stepped out of your airplane.

complete the featured hangar homes.

Bay to the city of Petoskey.

This year the development has another

The cherry on top of this fun getaway

treat for us—a home in the Airpark

pad is the multi-purpose infrared heated

Northern Home & Cottage

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TOUR HOME

Northern Home & Cottage

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Building homes is a craft. Building relationships is an art.

Building both is Birchwood.

8920 Moeller Drive ¡ Harbor Springs, MI 49740 231.439.1600

Our family is here to serve yours. Visit us at bccfamily.com.


Northern Home & Cottage

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l

Aw a r d

2019

ar

i H BA Bu

de

r o f t h e Ye

EXPERIENCE: To be aesthetically moved by

231.946.1234 env-arch.com

231.946.1234 • env-arch.com

EXCELLENCE: The quality of being outstanding

en•vi•ron•ment noun • 1. the surroundings or conditions in which a person, animal, or plant lives or operates.

22

MyNorth.com

maccustomhomes.com • 231.935.4609


Northern Home & Cottage

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Giving You that Custom Look Without the Custom Price

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AUG | SEPT ‘19

NHC 25


TOUR HOME

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LOCATION 10221 TOWNSHIP PARK ROAD PETOSKEY DESIGNER DAWN WHYTE PETOSKEY KITCHENS 231.347.1977 PETOSKEYKITCHENS.COM

contemporary on pickerel lake Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Dawn Whyte

The story of this cottage begins with a

a stunning, light-filled great room with a

Barb selected to hang over the black-wal-

glass of wine on a boat on Pickerel Lake

vaulted ceiling and a catwalk on the second

nut island countertop—a countertop that

at sunset. At least that’s how homeowner

floor. Three bedrooms and a bunkroom

sits over striking blue cabinets.

Barbara Belfore remembers it. Barbara and

round out the plan.

Indeed, brass and bronze make a subtle

her husband, John Hartman, were visiting

On the exterior, Keiser helped the couple

vintage-nautical presence throughout the

friends on Pickerel Lake when that scenario

translate their vision into a board-and-bat-

home, including the aged bronze door

prompted them to think: “This is so perfect,

ten contemporary farmhouse look with a

hardware and the stair railing painted

why don’t we do this too?” As fate would

stone foundation and a blue-steel shed roof

to look like aged bronze. Another gotta

have it, several lots were for sale down the

over the front porch. Touches, including

see is the handsome but oh so functional

road from their friends’ house. Not long

navy blue mullioned windows and wood-

dog bath in the laundry room designed by

after that, they were owners of one of them.

accent cladding on the upper story, make

Dawn.

What to build? Barb and John wanted

this home sing.

The couple is thrilled at the way their

their getaway cottage to be completely dif-

Barbara calls builder Nick Fettig of

home turned out. Barb especially loves how

ferent from the 1920s English Tudor they

Harbor View Custom Builders “awesome,”

the great room is flooded with light and

call home in Grosse Pointe. “We wanted

for his responsiveness to any issue that

lake views.

a contemporary cottage with clean lines,”

came up, including doing a masterful job of

Barb says. “Very minimal, natural and very

stabilizing the foundation in wet soil.

Her husband's and grown sons’ favorite thing? That would be the man cave over the

relaxing.” She also knew she wanted the

Dawn Whyte of Petoskey Kitchens

garage with its barnwood-like paneling (it

exterior to be white and the roof blue—her

worked with Barbara in the kitchen and

is actually weathered wooden fencing from

favorite color—she wanted plenty of blue

baths to implement her vision. The kitch-

the couple’s home in Grosse Pointe that

on the interior as well.

en’s focal point is a pale blue glass tile

John and son, Cooper, repurposed) and bar

The couple took their ideas along with

backsplash that looks as fresh as a wave

fashioned from brick, topped with a

a hand-sketched floor plan to Petoskey

against white cabinetry and subway tile.

reclaimed-wood bartop. Tourgoers are

architect Elaine Keiser who helped refine

Dawn coordinated brass fixtures and cabi-

going to love it too!

them. The core of the finished product is

netry handles with the brass pendants that Northern Home & Cottage

AUG | SEPT ‘19

NHC 27


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AUG | SEPT ‘19

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AUG | SEPT ‘19

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TOUR HOME

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LOCATION 1051 HILL STREET PETOSKEY DESIGNER EDGEWATER DESIGN GROUP EDGEWATERDESIGNGROUP.COM 231.348.0497

storied home Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Jacqueline Southby

Sara and Paul Matthews call their

low maintenance exterior is a cutting-edge

views of the spacious grounds that will

head-turning home, located in a sweet

blend of stacked stone, black corrugated

become a canvas for Paul, a retired land-

neighborhood just up the hill from down-

steel, black framed windows and Douglas

scaper. The couple’s vibrant art pieces play

town Petoskey, “a very human story.”

fir soffits—elements that add up to an

off against modernist furniture and light-

Indeed it is. Sara and her husband, Paul,

organic contemporary look. The use of

ing that is due to an inspired collaboration

have a special-needs son as well as an ener-

black steel, including interior beams and

between Sara and interior designer Kelly

getic middle-school daughter. This home

the staircase system, lend an industrial vibe

Paulsen. “She was absolutely instrumental

has an answer for everyone. Located down

that is courtesy of the Matthews’ friend

to the project,” Sara says. “I went through

the street from the school, it is ideally situ-

Dan Mello of Trimet Industries in Traverse

two designers before I finally found Kelly.”

ated for their daughter and a self-contained

City. The couple first met Dan, a metal

The open clean-lined kitchen, butler’s

apartment off the great room accommo-

fabricator, a number of years ago, right

pantry outfitted with a beverage center and

dates all their son’s needs while giving his

around the time they found out that their

Miele coffee machine (that allows guests to

caretakers privacy—and the family theirs.

then two-year-old son would never be able

wait on themselves when Sara is cooking),

The Matthews began the building

to walk. After the couple explained to Dan

and an outdoor room that centers around

process by taking their thoughts and

that they couldn’t find a solution for a child

a wood-burning fireplace, all make for easy,

needs to Stephanie Baldwin and her team

who wasn’t big enough for a wheelchair,

fabulous entertaining.

at Edgewater Design Group. Beyond the

he designed a comfortable, rolling chair

A den just off the great room houses

above considerations, they wanted their

that was just perfect. They still use it. The

the big-screen television and Sara’s loom—

new home to be low maintenance and to

couple’s gratitude for the chair resulted in

making for relaxing evenings of weaving,

stand out architecturally, “But not so much

a trusting relationship with Dan, so it was

game watching and togetherness.

that anyone would complain that it didn’t

natural for them to welcome his talents

work in our neighborhood,” says Sara. “We

into the their home-building process.

Tourgoers will leave understanding that this house is everything great design should

were thrilled that Edgewater listened to us

A maple floor finished to bring out all

be. Form following function—and solving

and were able to give us a unique-looking

of its color-tones envelops the room in

very human issues with soul-soothing

house that is meeting all our needs.”

warmth. Alder doors and trim and a Doug

style.

Lombardy LLC built this handsome

fir ceiling reflect that warmth. Clearstory

home with Paul working alongside the con-

windows and floor-to-ceiling window

struction crew throughout the project. The

banks fill the space with light—and with Northern Home & Cottage

AUG | SEPT ‘19

NHC 35


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TOUR HOME

Northern Home & Cottage

AUG | SEPT ‘19

NHC 37


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AUG | SEPT ‘19

NHC 39


Bradley J. Butcher, AIA bbutcher@sidockgroup.com 989.705.8400 • sidockgroup.com Novi • Wyandotte • Lansing Muskegon • Gaylord • Sault Ste. Marie featured on

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AUG | SEPT ‘19

NHC 41


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Northern Home & Cottage

AUG | SEPT ‘19

NHC 43


TOUR HOME

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LOCATION 777 BLUE WATER TRAIL BOYNE CITY DESIGNER EDGEWATER DESIGN GROUP EDGEWATERDESIGNGROUP.COM 231.348.0497

setting anchor Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Jacqueline Southby

For years, Jeff and Ellen Miller spent their

Edgewater Design Group, who solved that

subtle. The Millers wanted to keep the

vacations sailing in Northern Michigan—so

issue and a number of others on the 2015

garage, but the home needed to be sited

they had plenty of time to check out which

Northern Home & Cottage Petoskey Area

on a small knoll some feet away in order

small harbor town they might like to retire

Home Tour. Baldwin’s home that year was

to capture the views of Lake Charlevoix

to someday. When that time arrived several

a smart, 2000-square cottage on Crooked

across the street. The solution is a covered

years ago, they looked at properties up and

Lake with simple lines and a Craftsman

walkway and steps that are so artful they

down the coast and along inland lakes.

sensibility. That home proved to the couple

enhance the home.

When they discovered a sweet piece on

that Edgewater Design Group is as profi-

Another favor Baldwin did for them was

the outskirts of Boyne City that included

cient at small homes as the larger ones they

to connect them with Legacy Construction,

waterfront and a buildable lot, with a

are often known for.

a firm known for its craftsmanship and

garage on it, across the street, they knew they’d found home.

Edgewater Design Group did indeed

attention to detail. The Miller home, outfit-

come up with the perfect plan for the

ted with touches including custom

The couple figured they could find plans

Millers. At 2400 square feet, the simple

molding, cherry cabinetry, a stunning

for their dream lake cottage online. After

Craftsman with its 3 bedrooms, vaulted

custom range hood, built in shelving and

all, they weren’t looking to build anything

ceiling in the great room and upstairs deck

custom vanities. A warm hickory floor and

grandiose. Just a small-to-medium sized

is everything the Millers wanted—includ-

lovely earth-toned Craftsman-style color

contemporary Craftsman. But after an

ing the fact that construction stayed within

palette pull it all together, while a fireplace

unfruitful online search they gave up, frus-

their budget. An extra courtesy of working

mantel hewn from a tree taken on the

trated. Every plan they found had the back

with the talented design team is a screened

property rounds out this gracious lake

of the house facing the water—they needed

in porch facing the lake (“She told us, of

cottage.

a blueprint for a home that fronted on the

course you have to have a screened in

water. The Millers first met the woman,

porch,” Ellen says. “And we love it!’)

Stephanie Baldwin, Owner & President of

Edgewater’s other touches are more

Northern Home & Cottage

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NHC 45


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TOUR HOME

Northern Home & Cottage

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TOUR HOME

Northern Home & Cottage

AUG | SEPT ‘19

NHC 49


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Northern Home & Cottage

AUG | SEPT ‘19

NHC 51


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LOCATION 2984 SE TORCH LAKE DRIVE BELLAIRE CONTRACTOR TRILLIUM SHORE L.L.C. 231.218.7567 TRILLIUMSHORE.COM

torch lake, the sunset side Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Jacqueline Southby

Folks who are passionate about Torch

a second floor with two bedroom suites for

The generous kitchen is a testament to

Lake divide its personalities into the

their grown sons when they are home, as

this couple’s love of cooking and enter-

sunrise side and the sunset side. This year

well as other guests, that could be closed

taining. Tourgoers will see how Ann laid

we are delighted to have a home on each

off when just the two of them were there.

it out in two halves, one for the work area

side. Home #6 is on the sunrise side. And

Before the plan was complete, however,

and the other for people to gather. She

this #5 home, owned by Ann and Dan Isola,

the Isolas toured several area homes to

credits Tricia Keller from Preston Feather

is on the sunset side.

get an up close and personal sense of

with helping them pull the plan together.

Ann’s family has a tradition of vacation-

what makes lake living easier. The main

“She’d draw up what I was talking about

ing on Torch Lake that dates back to a

takeaway they took from those trips was

on the computer to see if it would all work

cabin that her grandfather built. So retiring

to locate the traffic pattern from the beach

together, or walk me around the show-

to the lake has always been in the couple’s

to the upstairs guest rooms all on one side

room and say, this is what it will look like,”

plans. The Isolas found and purchased their

of the house—in this case the north side,

says Ann.

dream lot (just up the shore from her

across the great room from the master

The couple has more kudos for builder

family’s homestead) five years ago. From

suite. That means that instead of a central

Jamie Wilkins of Trillium Shores LLC,

the get-go she and Dan were sure of the

staircase, their staircase is on the side, just

noting they particularly love his careful

style house they wanted: Traditional with

off the door from the beach, a laundry room

work on the eyebrow window and the

a hint of Craftsman including a statement

and bathroom where wet swim suits can be

cabinets and mantel that surround their

eyebrow window above the entry. And

shed before guests head upstairs.

fireplace. “He worked diligently with us to

above all, they wanted plenty of windows.

Another idea the Isolas implemented is

get the details that we liked and wanted—

“I kept telling the architect, less wall, more

to add a door off the driveway and close

he has been very in tune with our tastes,”

windows,” Ann says.

to the staircase so that late arrivals won’t

Ann says.

On the interior the couple knew that

disturb their host and hostess asleep in the

they wanted a main level master suite and

master suite on the other side of the house.

Northern Home & Cottage

AUG | SEPT ‘19

NHC 53


© Jacqueline Southby

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Photography by Windborne Studio

cabinetry • appliances • electrical • lighting

Northern Home & Cottage

AUG | SEPT ‘19

NHC 55


TOUR HOME

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LOCATION 1085 NORTH WEST TORCH LAKE DRIVE KEWADIN CONTRACTOR DRAPER CONSTRUCTION 231.322.3015 AARONDRAPERCONSTRUCTION.COM

torch lake, the sunrise side Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Jason Hulet

Almost any story involving Torch Lake

he told her. The kismet couldn’t have been

home the build-and-interior design team

starts out with a love story and this one

more obvious and before long the Insalacos

has had on our Northern Home & Cottage

is no exception. Robin and Bruce Insalaco

were owners of the property that included

Tour—and each one has been a unique

first met and fell in love with Torch Lake

an older home and garage.

show-stopper in terms of craftsmanship

when they visited a friend who was director

Robin knew essentially what she wanted

of Camp Hayowenta, the YMCA camp that

in a home: A simple, one-story that wasn’t

and design.

is located on the lake. Only in their 20s back

large, yet was filled with fine craftsmanship.

Choreography team doesn’t disappoint.

then, they made a promise to themselves

Not sure whether they should renovate the

Each Draper / Kitchen Choreography home

that someday they would settle on the lake.

old home or not, they took their ideas to

is unique. You will find this most recent

Bruce’s career took them all over the

Steve Thomas, Thomas Building Design

project has a light cottagey feel with the

world and finally to Texas. But in 2012 on

in Elk Rapids. After he heard their desire

same attention to detail and fine crafts-

a trip North, they decided it was time to

for a home filled with fine craftsmanship,

manship throughout.

launch a serious search for their dream

he sent them to Aaron Draper of Draper

Stunning features abound in the home,

Torch Lake property. The first piece they

Construction who is known for his quality

from the soaring beams arching across

looked at was on the lake’s west side—

construction and artistry in wood. After

the great room, to built-in shelves and—

known locally as the sunrise side, as

evaluating the home and garage, Draper

the pièce de résistance—15 stained-glass

opposed to the east side of the lake that is

told the couple the home wasn’t worth

transoms and two front door panes (in

known for its sunsets.

salvaging but the garage was. They decided

shades of Torch Lake blue), fabricated by

Once

again,

the

Draper/Kitchen

The couple liked it. As Robin says, “We

to begin by converting the garage into an

the artisan Guido Goldkhul. Goodall often

are morning people. We love the sunrise.”

attached guest wing in which they would

works with Goldkhul, designing the general

But back in Texas again, they weren’t sure

live while they built the main house.

concepts with her clients, while he executes

they were ready to commit and passed up

That proved to be a wise move, giving

the property—and it sold soon after. The

the couple time to get to know their prop-

Crafters won’t want to miss the custom

next year they resumed their search, and

erty and decide where to situate the main

fold-out quilting table designed by Kitchen

driving around the lake they passed that

house on the property. When they were

Choreography and built for Robin—that

piece. “I really regret letting that one get

ready to begin the house, Draper brought

yes, that can be rolled to face the inspira-

away,” Robin told the Realtor.

Angela Goodall and her team from Kitchen

tional Torch Lake view.

“Guess what, it’s back on the market,”

each as an individual piece of art.

Choreography onboard. This is the third

Northern Home & Cottage

AUG | SEPT ‘19

NHC 57


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TOUR HOME

Northern Home & Cottage

AUG | SEPT ‘19

NHC 59


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Send them off with a little Northern Michigan Monthly deliveries of Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine to their dorm, apartment, or wherever life takes them for just $24. Subscribe them now - MyNorth.com/Subscribe

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TOUR HOME

Northern Home & Cottage

AUG | SEPT ‘19

NHC 61


8/10-24

DISNEY’S THE JUNGLE BOOK, KIDS Old Town Playhouse

WWW.APLU S CONCR E T E . N E T

231.218.7630 - LICENSED & INSURED - SERVING ALL OF NORTHERN MICHIGAN

175 MAGNET DR BOYNE CITY, MI 49712

800.836.0717 // MYNORTHTICKETS.COM // TRAVERSE CITY

231-582-5020 WWW.BULMANNDOCK.COM

LIFT YOUR WATERFRONT EXPECTATIONS

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TOUR HOME

Northern Home & Cottage

AUG | SEPT ‘19

NHC 63


TOUR HOME

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FILMGOER ON THE TOWN AT THE TRAVERSE CITY FILM FESTIVAL

JULY 30 – AUGUST 4, 2019

HERE'S YOUR GUIDE

to TC’s Hippest Hangouts

FREE FLICKS!

Open Space Like a Pro

HOT TIPS

From Volunteers & Fans

Waiting for Showtime ... Michigan Movie Trivia

|

Big Fun Between Films

|

A supplement to Late-Night Bites


TOY HARBOR

EARTH 2 TABLE EATS

CIDERS · SPIRITS · OUTDOOR PATIO · LIVE MUSIC

CREATIVE & QUALITY TOYS SINCE 1984 SPECIAL SUMMER & HOLIDAY HOURS DOWNTOWN TRAVERSE CITY 231-946-1131 •

DOWNTOWN TRAVERSE CITY · CORNER OF FRONT & PARK WWW.TAPROOTTC.COM · 231.943.2500

Apache Trout Grill is located on the shore of beautiful West Bay with scenic views from every seat. Apache boasts a full bar with kraft beverages, award winning menu, tiki bar, on site boat docks and famous Sunday brunch. We offer a fine dining experience in a casual dockside atmosphere. 13671 S W Bay Shore Drive - Traverse City, MI www.apachetroutgrill.com


FILM FEST WITH THE BEST We asked a few die-hard TCFF devotees for their tips on how to get the most out of your visit.

“ Check out the panel discussions! Filmmakers marvel that so many people come to a panel discussion early in the morning—worth it.” — Lillian Ostendorf, festival fan and sponsor

“ If you’re in a standby movie line, ask the person in front

and behind you what movie they’re in line for. There is nothing worse than standing in line for the wrong movie! ” — Mark Jensen, a volunteer, sponsor, vendor and patron since the festival’s beginning

“ Buy tickets to films outside your comfort zone. Try a

documentary, foreign language film or short film. Those are usually the very best of the festival.”

ON THE COVER: OPEN SPACE, PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER // THIS PAGE: PHOTO BY TAYLOR BROWN

— Karen Koebert, longtime TCFF volunteer and patron

Hello, there! We’re the insider’s guide to the 2019 Traverse City Film Festival.. We welcome filmgoers—both guests and locals—to savor six incredible summer days of films and fun, right here in our charming city by the bay. Tuck this guide in your purse or pocket, and get ready for vibrant, refreshing and authentic experiences. The films come first, but we let you soak up all the moments in between, too. Enjoy the show!

FILMMAKER PARTY 8:30PM SATURDAY AUGUST 3, 2019, CORNER OF STATE & PARK STREETS

Love the vibes of Northern Michigan? We do, too! Stay connected with a subscription to Traverse Magazine and get monthly stories about life Up North. Order online at MyNorth.com/subscribe or call us at 231.941.8174. =

=

Filmgoer is produced by MyNorthMedia. Advertising and editorial offices at: 125 Park St., Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. 231.941.8174, info@mynorth.com, MyNorth.com. All rights reserved. Copyright 2019, Prism Publications Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

2019 FILMGOER

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THE INSIDER'S FILM FESTIVAL MAGAZINE

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Treat Yourself You Deserve It

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PHOTO CREDIT ELIJAH BROWNING PHOTOGRAPHY

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COURTESY OF TRAVERSE, NORTHERN MICHIGAN’S MAGAZINE

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THE BASICS

(BUSES + BATHROOMS)

garl

and

grandv

iew pa rkway

hall

iver R n a m Board

union

ace

HIGH SCHOOL

AUDITORIUM

FILM SCHOOL

MILLIKEN AUDITORIUM

front

wadsworth

park

front

CENTRAL

college

n sp

eastern

milliken

ope

... a hop, skip and a jump away ...

y a B t s e W

state boardman

cass sixth pine

Boar dman

seventh

lake

PUBLIC RESTROOMS

Know where to go (before you need to go).

» Park Street (between Park Street Café and MyNorth Media)

Rive

» Morsels

r

» Milk & Honey » Espresso Bay » Great Lakes Bath & Body » Brew

eighth

» Chamber of Commerce (during business hours) » Traverse City Tourism Visitor Center

ninth

» Clinch Park » BATA Transit Station (Hall St.)

To Meijer Parking

NEED TO KNOW » Free rides for all users » Services from 10 a.m. until the last movie ends » Buses run every 15–20 minute

MYNORTH MEDIA HEADQUARTERS Pick up free Northern Michigan Vacation Guides M-F // 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

» Route stops near all the film venues and park-n-ride lots at Northwestern Michigan College and Thirlby Field on 14th Street

EVENT PARKING Don’t stress about parking. You can get to every TCFF venue by hopping a ride with BATA July 31–August 4.

2019 FILMGOER

» The schedule and route map can be found on bata.net and the Transit App |

THE INSIDER'S FILM FESTIVAL MAGAZINE

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1923

1916

1927

LOCAL ENTREPRENEUR JULIUS STEINBERG OPENED THE LYRIC THEATRE ON JULY 4, 1916.

BUTTERFIELD THEATRES TOOK OVER MANAGEMENT. THEY KEPT ON MANAGER CONRAD FOSTER WHO CONTINUED TO WORK AT THE LYRIC UNTIL HIS DEATH IN 1940.

1929

1978

THE LYRIC SHOWED ITS FIRST “TALKIE”— A FILM CALLED LUCKY BOY.

MANAGEMENT COMPANY GKC TURNED THE SINGLE SCREEN CINEMA INTO A TWIN SCREEN SO THEY COULD SHOW MORE THAN ONE FILM SIMULTANEOUSLY.

1948 ONCE AGAIN, THE THEATER BURNED DOWN AND HAD TO BE RENOVATED. THIS TIME IT REOPENED AS THE STATE THEATRE IN JULY 1949. F4

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE TRAVERSE AREA DISTRICT LIBRARY, LOCALHISTORY.TADL.ORG

THE THEATER BURNED DOWN ON JANUARY 17, 1923. IT WAS RENOVATED OVER THE NEXT YEAR AND REOPENED IN DECEMBER 1923.


TC’s Historic State Theatre The State Theatre actually began as the Lyric Theatre just over 100 years ago in 1916. The site has since seen two debilitating fires, the birth of a film festival, celebrities like Madonna, Jane Fonda and Susan Sarandon and, of course, hundreds of movies. TEXT BY MOLLY KORROCH

2003

2007

THE STATE THEATRE GROUP AND INTERLOCHEN CENTER FOR THE ARTS ANNOUNCED A COMPLETE RENOVATION.

THE ROTARY CHARITIES DONATED THE THEATER TO THE TRAVERSE CITY FILM FESTIVAL. THAT NOVEMBER, IT REOPENED WITH A GALA PREMIERE OF THE FILM THE KITE RUNNER.

TODAY THE STATE THEATRE IS AN INTEGRAL CENTERPIECE TO BOTH TRAVERSE CITY AND THE TRAVERSE CITY FILM FESTIVAL.

1996

P

INSIDER T I

PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

AFTER 80 YEARS, THE STATE THEATRE CLOSED ITS DOORS. OVER THE NEXT SEVERAL YEARS, THE COMMUNITY DELIBERATED WHAT WOULD BE THE BEST USE FOR THE HISTORIC SITE.

Alw a list ays make of wh ere to when be know so that y ou what is goi y ng to our day look like. — Wil l Ha vill, V

olunt e

er

2019 FILMGOER

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THE INSIDER'S FILM FESTIVAL MAGAZINE

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THE INSIDER’S GUIDE:

TC’S HIPPEST HANGOUTS

INSIDE R

Stroll these cool enclaves near Film Fest venues—and stay a while!

P TI

I reco mme close nd pa t rking o wher movi ey e lets out, t our last take hen w the b alk or us day t o the the rest o f vario us ve the — Kar nues en Ba . ja, Volu ponso nteer r

and s

SOUTH UNION STREET

SOUTH UNION STREET (AKA SU)

WAREHOUSE DISTRICT

This art and antique paradise is located just off Front Street.

Anchored by the edgy Warehouse MRKT and Hotel Indigo, this downtown district sits between Front Street and Grandview Parkway on Garland Street.

THE MUST-DOS: Check out Higher Art Gallery’s contemporary exhibits and peruse Wilson Antiques for delightful vintage goods. Then grab a crepe at Millie & Pepper and walk down to the Boardman River—only a block away. End your day at Low Bar—an underground craft cocktail lounge serving delicious concoctions. Try the Pisco Sour, a tangy, frothy summer classic.

THE VIBE: Industrial Modern Meets Midwest/Instagram Heaven THE MUST-DOS: Wander Warehouse MRKT’s stylish shops— Darling Botanical, Relish, Grey Wolf Creek and Wood + Cloth. Order an artisan coffee and baked goods at BLK MRKT. Make dinner reservations at Alliance for an elegant and locally sourced meal.

EIGHTH STREET

SLABTOWN NEIGHBORHOOD

Our beloved Eighth Street is getting a makeover this summer, but businesses are open! View construction updates online, and know these destinations are worth the detour.

Adorable homes, neatly trimmed grass, chalk-covered sidewalks and a beloved burger joint sit between West Front Street and Grandview Parkway.

THE VIBE: In Progress

THE VIBE: Classic

THE MUST-DOS: Find fine wine at Bon Vin and refreshing brews at Silver Spruce. Early birds: Order a B.A. Bagel at Rose & Fern Cafe then head down the street to Press on Juice to grab a fresh pick-me-up (each juice is packed with more than two pounds of produce).

THE MUST-DOS: Find an upscale souvenir at consignment stores, Evergreen and Zany Boutique. Burgers on the brain? Us too. Try the TC Cherry Burger at Slabtown Burgers for an unforgettable burger experience. Burgers!

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PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

THE VIBE: Best “Secret” Side Street


Traverse City’s only

CIGAR LOUNGE & BAR SERVING:

BOURBON, WINE, SCOTCH, BEER, CIGARS, GIFTS

GRAND TRAVERSE COMMONS

336 E Front St nolanstobacco.com

GRAND TRAVERSE COMMONS The Village at Grand Traverse Commons is filled with fantastic restaurants and boutique shopping. Access it at the intersection of Division and Eleventh streets.

Maybe they’ll visit more …

THE VIBE: Historic Estate THE MUST-DOS: Craving a cup of coffee or a breakfast sandwich? Try out Cuppa Joe or Higher Grounds. For brunch there’s Sugar 2 Salt and Red Spire Brunch House. The dinner hour calls for visits to local favorites Trattoria Stella and PepeNero. And be sure to swing through the shops at the indoor Mercato.

Give a gift subscription of Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine to your friends and family, and remind them what they are missing Up North, with stunning photography and awe-inspiring stories every month.

FRONT STREET Front Street is the heartbeat of Traverse City. It’s about a mile long east to west and is home to restaurants, shops, the State Theatre and more.

… Because Everyone Loves Up North. Only $24 for 12 issues | MyNorth.com/perfectgift

THE VIBE: Main Drag THE MUST-DOS: Grab a cocktail and an appetizer at Poppycock’s and sit in the window to watch passersby—the pita platter is amazing. Horizon Books and Brilliant Books are always cozy, and both are very inclusive of local authors and events. On the fringes of Front Street, The Little Fleet (east side) and Nada’s Gourmet Deli (west side) offer fabulous options for lunch and dinner.

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

CASS STREET The fun starts downtown at the local shops and continues for a mile down the street with a craft distillery, brewery and riverside park. THE VIBE: Laid Back THE MUST-DOS: Take a tour at Traverse City Whiskey—a fantastic local distillery on Fourteenth Street. Or, if you’re more into suds than liquor, check out nearby Right Brain Brewery on Sixteenth. Relax at Legion Park with a picnic then catch the next show. —M.K. 2019 FILMGOER

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THE INSIDER'S FILM FESTIVAL MAGAZINE

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Late-Night Bites

When a snack just won’t cut it, head to these TC establishments that stay open late (well past the midnight hour). TEXT BY CARLY SIMPSON

TRUCK! RS A T

, town ’re in e u t o a r y eleb Glad lin! C ve and m o T i Lily t nat she etroi this D dy icon as r a come e stage fo hael th ic takes on with M ti te a a t s r S e conv ore at the t a S . Mo tre on .m. Thea p at 3 Aug 3

BRADY’S BAR | 401 S. UNION ST.

Known for their Greek cuisine, the Lounge has great gyros and a killer Greek salad. Don’t forget the baklava. The kitchen closes at 1:20 a.m. seven days a week.

Simply put, Brady’s has great food and an even better rustic atmosphere. The tavern serves breakfast, lunch and dinner—the kitchen stays open until 1:30 a.m.

J & S HAMBURG | 302 W. FRONT ST.

DINO’S PIZZA | 543 E. 8TH ST.

This classic diner has been serving made-from-scratch food cooked on the same grill since 1938. Have a burger for breakfast or French toast for dinner. Homemade cake, too! Late-night hours: Wednesday–Saturday 24/7 right through until Sunday when they close at 8 p.m.

Pizza, breadsticks and submarine sandwiches—come on, what else do you really need? The next time you’re having an all-night movie marathon, Dino’s has your back (should we say your stomach?). Open until 1 a.m. every day except Friday and Saturday when you can get a dynamo deep dish until 3 a.m.

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PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

S

U & I LOUNGE | 214 E. FRONT ST.


WHAT TO DO BETWEEN FILMS Have 1 hour before the next show starts? 3 hours? More? Get out and about between flicks.

Front Street » Pop a “Michael Morsel,” a bite-sized treat named for film fest founder Michael Moore, and look for other movie-inspired goodies at Morsels Espresso + Edibles the week of the fest. » Cherry Republic’s iconic Boomchunka (aka a massive cookie crammed with cherries and chocolate) is a must.

1-2 HOURS

NEED A SNACK? (YES, ALWAYS)

IMBIBE: Rare Bird Brewpub, 7 Monks Taproom, The Workshop Brewing Company and The Little Fleet are relaxing hangouts for a beer and a snack, and they’re all right downtown. It’s easy to walk— less than 10 minutes—from these locations to several TCFF venues: State Theatre, City Opera House and Bijou by the Bay.

» Goodboy Provisions has buttery pastries from 9 Bean Rows, healthy grab-and-go snacks and a chicken salad sandwich that makes grandmas proud. » Crêpes & Co, located inside the State Street Market, has sweet and savory fillings, and every crêpe is made from scratch.

Tenth Street » Oryana Community Co-op has lots of options for people with dietary restrictions—the walnut chicken salad is amazing, but the whole store is honestly a snack goldmine.

Union Street » Only a specialty meat market with 106 years of street cred would pull off a salad bar this scrumptious. Maxbauer’s uber-fresh veggies, meats and cheeses are at the ready; load up a small container with your heart’s desire ($5.99 out-the-door). Balance things out with a homemade hot dog and a bottle of wine.

5-6 HOURS

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER // DONUTS FROM PEACE, LOVE AND LITTLE DONUTS // TRAY FROM MY SECRET STASH

State Street

3-4 HOURS

» For the charcuterie inclined, stop by Burritt’s or Folgarelli’s for all of your cheese platter needs.

» The Balsamic Chocolate Cookie at Fustini’s Fresh Take is out of this world. Don’t leave town without a taste!

GET MOVING: Get some feel-good fresh air and stretch your legs with a quick bike ride around downtown or down the Boardman Lake Trail. Brick Wheels and Bayfront Scooters offer rentals. Want a break from the heat? Drop in on a yoga class at Yen Yoga and Fitness, Source or Modus45. Each is less than a 10-minute walk from the State Theatre. IMBIBE: Head north on M22 to tour the Leelanau Peninsula’s cideries. Suttons Bay Ciders, Tandem Ciders and Two K Farms sit along, or near, the famous scenic highway. Hop Lot Brewing Co., also on M22, has traditional-style ales, Belgian and seasonal beers, plus wine and cider.

» The groovy donuts at Peace, Love and Little Donuts are mini—meaning you can have more than one!

» Pop-Kies Gourmet Popcorn has fun (and delish) flavors like PB&J, dill pickle, bacon cheddar and cookies & cream.

TAKE IN SOME (MORE) ART: Plan a visit to the Dennos Museum Center. The fine arts museum is home to Milliken Auditorium— which doubles as a TCFF film venue—outdoor sculptures, Inuit art and traveling collections. Back downtown, several galleries, including Higher Art Gallery, Michigan Artists Gallery and Art & Soul Gallery, are just a block from the State Theatre and City Opera House. On Sixth Street (one block from The Kubrick venue at Central Grade School), Crooked Tree Arts Center has year-round exhibitions and classes, and admission is always free.

TAKE IN SOME (MORE) ART: Beautiful galleries dot the villages along M22. In Suttons Bay, stop by The Painted Bird and Brenda J. Clark Gallery. Leland boasts Main Street Gallery, and Glen Arbor’s Synchronicity is always a treat. The beautiful Tamarack Gallery and Wright Gallery are located at the tip of the peninsula in Northport— and that’s just to name a few. Many more artists’ haunts to discover in each town. GET MOVING: Many of Northern Michigan’s most beautiful hikes are located a short (and stunning) drive from the Traverse City area. A local favorite: Mission Point Lighthouse. Set at the tip of Old Mission Peninsula, the lighthouse is surrounded by miles of trails. Find maps in the park, and expect forest views and spectacular beachcombing. IMBIBE: Elect a designated driver or reserve a tour bus to take you to our peninsulas’ incredible wineries. From lakeside to hilltop, the locales on Old Mission and Leelanau simply cannot be outdone. Even if wine isn’t your thing, it’s wonderful to sit and enjoy the views, and many wineries also serve cider. TAKE IN SOME (MORE) ART: Drive out to Interlochen Center for the Arts (about 25 minutes from downtown Traverse City) to see students’ final performances and exhibits. This summer’s shows are 9 to 5 The Musical and The Drowsy Chaperone. There are also opportunities to visit on-site student galleries and classical music performances. GET MOVING: Locals will tell you, the views are stellar, but there’s no better feeling than being on the water. For a quick jaunt, we recommend renting a standup paddle board on a placid Grand Traverse Bay day. Or head to Crystal River Outfitters in Glen Arbor (a 40-minute drive from The State) for an easy kayak adventure. —M.K. 2019 FILMGOER

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THE INSIDER'S FILM FESTIVAL MAGAZINE

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Trivia! Category: Filmed in Michigan TEXT BY MOLLY KORROCH

1

In what Upper Peninsula community were scenes from the Jimmy Stewart classic Anatomy of a Murder filmed? a) Grand Marais b) McMillan c) Big Bay d) Munising

2

Which of the following movies featured the first ever rap to win an Academy Award for Best Original Song? a) 8 Mile b) Notorious c) Straight Outta Compton d) Hustle & Flow

3

Which of Santa’s reindeer is featured in this 1989 Michigan Christmas favorite? a) Dancer b) Comet c) Prancer d) Dasher

4

What is John Cusack’s character’s profession in the film Grosse Pointe Blank? a) CIA Operative b) Assassin c) DJ d) Car Salesman

5

What Michigan town did the Die Hard 2 production take over for a few days in 1990? a) Alpena b) Oscoda c) Charlevoix d) Frankfort

6

Which Bond girl makes an appearance in the Michigan classic Somewhere in Time? a) Jill St. John b) Madeline Smith c) Grace Jones d) Jane Seymour

7

Which Michigan director filmed the movie Escanaba in da Moonlight? a) Jeff Daniels b) Michael Moore c) Anne Fletcher d) John Hughes

8

9

10

What mystical creatures are portrayed in the film Only Lovers Left Alive? a) Demons b) Angels c) Vampires d) Witches Which Detroit suburb is portrayed in Clint Eastwood’s film Gran Torino? a) Highland Park b) Birmingham c) Farmington Hills d) West Bloomfield What sport is portrayed in the film Whip It? a) Wrestling b) NASCAR c) Roller Derby d) Softball

TRIVIA ANSWERS

1) C: Big Bay, 2) A: 8 Mile, 3) C: Prancer, 4) B: Assassin, 5) A: Alpena, 6) D: Jane Seymour, 7) A: Jeff Daniels, 8) C: Vampires, 9) A: Highland Park, 10) C: Roller Derby

F10

COURTESY OF TRAVERSE, NORTHERN MICHIGAN’S MAGAZINE

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MYNORTH.COM


Open Space Like a Pro

The sun sets over the bay and the movie starts. Here’s what to bring: BOGG BAG

Big, durable, washable—your go-to bag. SUHM-THING, FACEBOOK.COM/SUHMTHING, $73

BLACK DIAMOND MOJI 250

PILLOWS BY TANDEM FOR TWO

NORTH, BACKCOUNTRYNORTH.COM, $79.95

NIFTYTHINGSONLINE.COM, $48

A very cute lantern for your (very dark) walk back to the car. BACKCOUNTRY

Machine-washable pillow cases = outdoor approved. NIFTY THINGS,

FIND THESE ITEMS AT LOCAL SHOPS IN DOWNTOWN TRAVERSE CITY.

4 IN A ROW

Play while you wait for showtime. Winner gets the last sour cherry patch. CALI’S, FACEBOOK.COM/CALISTC, $20

GREAT LAKES SWEATSHIRT BLANKET

Super soft for cozy, bayside lounging. MOMENTUM OUTFITTERS, MOMENTUMOUTFITTERS.COM,

CARAMEL POPCORN

MICHIGAN TRAY

Brown sugar and vanilla achieve true, crunchy caramel corn. POP-KIE’S, POPKIES.COM,

MY SECRET STASH, MYSECRETSTASH.COM, $24

$5.25 FOR 5 OZ. BAG

Your snack station headquarters.

VERNORS

When in Michigan ... Find individual cans at Crêpes & Co. CREPESANDCOTC.COM

SOUR CHERRY PATCHES

Super-sour, sugar-coated, so hard to share. CHERRY REPUBLIC, CHERRYREPUBLIC.COM, $5.95 FOR 8 OZ. BAG

pro tips

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

$19.50

2019 FILMGOER

|

Bug spray is essential—nobody likes being a skeeter snack. Blanket-seating only in the first few rows. The best spots go quickly! Arrive early to snag a space. All movies at the Open Space are free! Showtime is approximately 9:30 p.m.

THE INSIDER'S FILM FESTIVAL MAGAZINE

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INS ID E

R

P TI

get to al r! You e e t festiv n Volu w the se. You o n k y el ately ybod nd intim an an lunteer a h t r e o v ily. e m bett n a as o ire f go in ith an ent rse City w ve leave eft the Tra me of the l o s e I hav with gest stival and stron e F s k for. Film d s n a frie ould c I best s s p i Event onsh n TC relati ntow r w x, Do inato k Vio Coord — Nic jects o r P and

Instagram - able

Share your favorite film fest moments with us on Instagram! @mynorthmedia #MyNorth

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JULY/AUGUST EVENTS 7/23-8/13

BLACK STAR FARMS BBQ ON THE PATIO Hearth & Vine Cafe at Black Star Farms

7/22-8/24

THE YOUNG AMERICANS DINNER THEATRE Boyne Highlands Resort

7/25-7/28

THE FOREIGNER Ramsdell Regional Center for the Arts

7/26-8/16

SUMMER SOUNDS CONCERT SERIES Michigan Legacy Art Park

7/26

PAELLA NIGHT - CELEBRATE SUMMER Rudbeckia Winery and Burnt Marshmallow Brewing

7/26-8/3

BAROQUE ON BEAVER Beaver Island

7/27

SOUNDS OF TORCH Alden Depot on Torch Lake

7/29-31

DINNER THEATER: DEFINITION OF MAN 123 Speakeasy

8/2

SIPS & GIGGLES FEATURING DAVE LANDAU Leelanau Sands Showroom

8/3

SHORT’S FEST 2019! Short’s Brewing Company Production Facility

MYNORTHTICKETS.COM // 800.836.0717 // 125 PARK STREET // TRAVERSE CITY MyNorth is home of MyNorthTickets and Traverse Magazine


SHOP

GET UP AND GO

DINE

Summer feels good on the skin…like freshwater waves gracing the sand.

CASINO

The paradise of Northern Michigan is more than a pristine beach, a day

GOLF SPA

at the spa, or wine tasting with friends. More than an early morning tee time, an emerging food scene, or Vegas-style gaming. It’s having all of those things at your fingertips. You won’t believe it if you haven’t seen it. Get up and go at grandtraverseresort.com.

Owned and Operated by the Grand Traverse Band of Ottawa and Chippewa Indians


Dining RESTAURANT GUIDE | LOCAL TABLE | DRINKS

TEXT BY TIM TEBEAU | PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

GARDEN TO TABLE

WREN | 303 NORTH SAINT JOSEPH STREET, SUTTONS BAY | 231.271.1175 Wren’s weekly menu rises from a fusillade of Monday morning text messages sent by Chef Adam McMarlin’s network of farmers and foragers at Loma Farm, Lakeview Hills and 9 Bean Rows. Fennel bulbs. Green zebra tomatoes. Wild watercress. Cattail shoots. Peaches. Shortly thereafter Adam is at the kitchen door to receive them: buckets of wild greens flecked with earth and bushels of bright striated tomatoes warmed by the morning sun. Then the work begins in this bustling kitchen of two as McMarlin and his longtime culinary accomplice, Dustin Scheppe, shave ears of sweet

corn to be simmered with shallots, thyme and cream. Day picked vegetables and herbs submerge in brine to provide a tangy acid foil to rich chicken liver mousse. Tender ribbons of fresh fettuccine, one of Wren’s power centers, are rolled out to receive a sauté of summer mushrooms. Bitter greens, bright acids and earthy umami coalesce into the precise and temporal beauty that has marked McMarlin’s food since he hit the Up North food scene in 2010 with his first project, The Bay Leaf. Read on this month as we celebrate the taste of summer with the North’s best garden-to-table menus. Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

AUG '19

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L O C A L LY S O U R C E D . E X P E R T LY C R A F T E D .

PE TO S K EY. W I N E


garden to table | dining

ON THE TABLE

August’s parade of local eateries leverages the North’s summer agri-bounty to craft fresh, inspired cuisine from garden to plate. BIRCH & MAPLE

727 MAIN STREET, FRANKFORT | 231.399.0399 Thick cut tomatoes from Cold Creek Farm anchor a tasty threesome with lavender thyme balsamic and airy fresh burrata.

HEARTH & VINE CAFÉ

10844 EAST REVOLD ROAD, SUTTONS BAY | 231.944.1297 See your lunch plucked from the gardens and orchards surrounding Black Star’s bucolic farmstead café.

THE COOKS’ HOUSE

115 WELLINGTON STREET, TRAVERSE CITY | 231.946.8700 Expect sublime seasonal meditations like butter roasted walleye with summer mushrooms, foie gras cream and sunflower sprouts.

TORCH LAKE CAFE 4990 US 31, CENTRAL LAKE | 231.599.1111 Chef Catalin Munteanu puts a made-in-the-Mitten spin on fettuccine with Otto's chicken, King Orchards asparagus, and local mushrooms.

MISSION TABLE 13512 PENINSULA DRIVE, TRAVERSE CITY | 231.223.4222 Glimpse the sliver ripples on Bowers Harbor between bites of salt-roasted beets with Werp Farms greens, maple yogurt and red wine vin.

ESPERANCE 12853 US-31 NORTH, CHARLEVOIX | 231.237.9300 Day caught almond panko crusted lake trout bedded in fresh vegetables from Providence Farm.

POUR

422 MITCHELL STREET, PETOSKEY | 231.881.9800 Local flora and fauna fondly commingle in Pour’s Rabbit Fricassee with fava beans, sweet peas and earthy oyster mushrooms.

POND HILL FARM 5699 SOUTH LAKE SHORE DRIVE, HARBOR SPRINGS | 231.526.3276 The tzatziki salad’s juicy cukes and sweet sungold cherry tomatoes make a hundred foot journey from earth to plate at Pond Hill Farm’s Garden Café.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

AUG '19

75


AUGUST EVENTS 8/14

A TRADITIONAL INDIAN DINNER WITH CHEF RAJEEV PATGAONKAR Willowbrook Mill

8/14-15

FOLLYWOOD Erickson Center for the Arts

8/15

MAGIC ON THE ROCKS The Parlor

8/16

2019 LEGACY GALA HONORING ARTIST CHARLES MCGEE Crystal Mountain

8/17

ANNUAL LOBSTER FEST GT Lighthouse Museum

8/17

NORTHPORT WINE AND CRAFT BEVERAGE FESTIVAL G. Marsten Dame Marina

8/17

PAINT GRAND TRAVERSE FINALE CELEBRATION AND SALE Crooked Tree Arts Center

8/18

COCKTAIL CLASS: BUILDING A HOME BAR The Cooks’ House

8/23

LET’S MISBEHAVE: AN EVENING OF COLE PORTER Ramsdell Regional Center for the Arts

8/23-25

SHOWSTOPPERS REVUE OLD TOWN PLAYHOUSE

8/31

HERE COME THE MUMMIES AT LABORFEST 2019 First Street Beach Douglas Park

MYNORTHTICKETS.COM // 800.836.0717 // 125 PARK STREET // TRAVERSE CITY MyNorth is home of MyNorthTickets and Traverse Magazine


restaurant guide | dining

RESTAURANT GUIDE Find More Northern Michigan Restaurants at MyNorth.com/Restaurants

Mulligan’s Inviting pub with steamed littleneck clams, shrimp-topped burgers and pasta. LD • BAR • $–$$ 320 NORTH MAIN ST., CHEBOYGAN, 231.627.2459

Original Pancake House Crepes, waffles, pancakes, omelettes, egg specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$ 840 FRONT ST., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.2770

Vintage Chophouse/ Wine Bar All-American steakhouse flavored with retro sophistication. LD • BAR • $-$$$

INN AT BAY HARBOR AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION, 3600 VILLAGE HARBOR DR., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.4051

Vivio’s Northwood Inn Locals love this cozy, rustic, wildlife-decorated log cabin with Italian cuisine and specialty pizzas. LD • BAR • $-$$ 4531 S. STRAITS HWY., INDIAN

| WATER VIEW

RIVER, 231.238.9471

BLD | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER BAR | ALCOHOL SERVED

MACKINAC ISLAND & MACKINAW CITY

$ | ENTRÉES INDER $10

Amigo Burrito Mexican Grill Burritos, tacos and quesadillas made to order. Dine in or carry out. Located in Murray Hotel’s lobby. LD • $ 7260 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND,

$$ | $10-20 $$$ | ABOVE $20

906.847.8010

Mackinac Island Mackinaw City Pellston Harbor Springs Bay Harbor Petoskey

Cannonball Drive In Burgers, sandwiches, pizza, ice cream, fried pickles and more. Dine inside or out. Located at historic British Landing. BBQ hayrides peak season, call for reservations. Group meals and hayrides available. LD • $ 7641 BRITISH LANDING RD., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.0932

Carriage House at Hotel Iroquois Old-World charm, piano bar. Regional menu: whitefish, filet mignon and seafood. BLD • BAR • $$$ MAIN ST. ON THE WATER, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3321

Cawthorne’s Village Inn Planked whitefish, desserts. Gaylord

BLD • BAR • $$ 1384 HOBAN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3542

Chuckwagon Mackinac Island’s quintessential diner. BL • Traverse City

Frankfort

Cadillac

Manistee

PETOSKEY & MACKINAC STRAITS ALANSON/BAY HARBOR/ BRUTUS/CHEBOYGAN/ INDIAN RIVER/ODEN The Boat House Seafood-centric, überfresh cuisine with contemporary presentation in a 1940s boathouse right on the Cheboygan River. D • BAR • $-$$ 106 PINE ST., CHEBOYGAN, 231.627.4316

Black Mountain Lodge Hikers on Black Mountain love settling in post-walkabout for the glorious view of East Twin Lake and freshly prepared trout, perch, quail, lobster and homemade bread with honey-walnut butter. D • BAR $$-$$$ 10621 TWIN LAKES RD., CHEBOYGAN, 231.625.9322

Brutus Camp Deli Breakfast spot famous for its homemade food, big portions and rustic décor. BL • $ 4086 US31, BRUTUS, 231.529.2222

Dutch Oven Café and Deli French toast and farmers omelet stratas, sandwiches on famous homemade bread. BL • $ 7611 U.S. 31, ALANSON, 231.548.2231

Fox & Rose

Knot Just a Bar Contemporary sports and oyster bar perched on the Bay Harbor marina. B • $ 4165 MAIN STREET, BAY HARBOR, 231.439.9989

Mighty Mac Hamburgers Breakfast sandwiches, burgers, hot dogs, chicken sandwiches and more. Indoor seating or carryout. BL • $ 7463 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.8039 Millie’s on Main Charming soda fountain and grill. LD • $ 7296 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.9901

Mission Point Resort Bistro on the Greens— LD • BAR • $ The Round Island Bar & Grill—Burgers and sandwiches LD • BAR • $ Chianti—upscale, affordable Italian. Lakeside Marketplace—gourmet pizzas and hot dogs BLD • $$-$$$ 1 LAKESHORE DRIVE, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3312

Mr. B’s Pizza, coney dogs, soft-serve ice cream and more overlooking the Straits. L • $ 7367 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3530

Murray Hotel Breakfast buffet of scrambled eggs, homestyle potatoes, sausage, bacon and more. B • $ 7260 MAIN

ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 855.696.8772

Mustang Lounge Traditional bar grub, burgers, dogs, pizza and an array of great fried munchies. BL • BAR • $-$$ 8 ASTOR ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.9916

Pancake House Breakfast sandwiches, omelets, Plath smoked meats, waffles, pancakes, deli sandwiches and more. BL • $ 102 MAIN ST., 906.847.3829 The Pink Pony Bar & Grill The island’s entertainment oasis—loud, bustling, with pastas and steaks. LD • Smokey Jose's Water-side restaurant where BBQ and bourbon meet tacos & tequila. LD • BAR • $-$$ 7263 MAIN

8593 CUDAHY CIRCLE, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3355

Dog House Hot dogs, nachos, chips and more. Picnic tables under big umbrellas. Located at Windermere Point on the Straits of Mackinac. LD • $ 7498 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.6586

Feedbag Donuts made daily. Hot dogs, brats and more. Located near the Surrey Hills Carriage Museum. BL • $

CADOTTE AVE., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3593

Gate House Casual inside and outside eating with live music and televisions. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1547 CADOTTE AVENUE, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3772

Goodfellows Italian Chop House Fun Italian cuisine in a comfortable atmosphere. Classic and tasty sandwiches, pastas, pizzas, steaks and seafood. BLD • BAR • $$$ 1395 HOBAN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.0270

Grand Hotel Main Dining Room—coat and tie for gentlemen, dresses or pantsuits for ladies, for full breakfast, lunch buffet and 5-course dinner. BLD • BAR • $$$ 286 GRAND AVE., MACKINAC ISLAND, 800.33-GRAND

Horn’s Gaslight Bar Southwestern cuisine. LD • BAR • $ 7300 MAIN ST., 906.847.6154

Island House 1852 Grill Room—Prime rib, chicken, seafood, veal. BD • BAR Ice House BBQ—casual dining, burgers, gourmet sandwiches, sweet potato fries and creative martinis. LD • BAR • $$ 6966 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND,

231.625.2919

STAR LINE DOCK, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.9911

BAR • $$ MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3341

The Greenside Grille at Indian River Golf Club Serving a complete menu and Happy Hour offerings overlooking the 9th hole. LD • BAR • $–$$$ 3301 CHIPPEWA BEACH RD., Hack-Ma-Tack Inn Classic 1894-era hunting and fishing lodge on the Cheboygan River near Mullett Lake specializes in steaks and seafood. Dock space and overnight slips. LD • BAR • $-$$ 8131 BEEBE RD., CHEBOYGAN,

Mary’s Bistro Well-rounded menu of bistro fare and the most taps on the island. LD • BAR • $-$$ MAIN ST. AT

Cudahy Chophouse Steaks, chops and fresh fish at this restaurant in Stonecliff Manor tucked away in the woods up island. Reservations recommended. D • BAR • $$-$$$

Huron Street Pub & Grill Classic pub food. LD • BAR • $-$$ 7304 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.8255

INDIAN RIVER, 231.238.8515

ISLAND, 855.696.8772

$ 7400 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.0019

Steaks, fish, seafood. LD • BAR • $$$ 795

FRONT ST., BAY HARBOR, 231.752.2122

Lucky Bean Coffee House Fresh pastries and coffee all day. $ 7383 MARKET ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 248.342.2988 Mama LaRosa’s Pizza Buffet Pizza buffet with salad bar. Located in the Murray Hotel. LD • $ 7260 MAIN ST., MACKINAC

906.847.3347

Island Slice Pizzeria, bakery and ice cream shop. Located at the Horse Corral Mall. LD • $ 7248 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.8100

Jockey Club at the Grand Stand Located on the first tee of The Jewel golf course. Sandwiches, salads, full dinner menu. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ GRAND AVE., MACKINAC ISLAND,

ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.0466

Seabiscuit Café Cozy exposed-brick walled pub in a restored 1880s bank building. Sip a brew and dine on a wonderfully eclectic menu. LD • BAR • $-$$ MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3611

Sushi Grand Mackinac Island’s first and only sushi restaurant opens this year. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1547 CADOTTE AVE., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906. 847.3772

Tea Room at Fort Mackinac Refreshments with a view of the harbor and Straits of Mackinac. BL • BAR • $ INSIDE FORT MACKINAC, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3331

Yankee Rebel Tavern Warm, casual restaurant highlighting updated renditions of American culinary classics in a rustic, colonial setting. LD • BAR • $-$$ 101 ASTOR ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.6249

Woods Elegant mansion in the island’s interior that offers casual fine dining, extensive wine list and duck pin bowling. LD • BAR • $$$ 8655 CUDAHY CIR., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3699

Audie’s Chippewa Room—Whitefish prepared six ways by Chef Nicklaus Jaggi along with seasonal Michigan fare. D • BAR • $$ The Family Room—Northwoodsy ambience, Formica tabletops. BLD • BAR • $$ 314 N. NICOLET, MACKINAW CITY, 231.436.5744

Darrow’s Family Restaurant 50s-era classic eatery open seasonally with fresh fish, roast pork and beef, skyhigh pies, and other wholesome family fare. LD • $-$$ 301 LOUVIGNY, MACKINAW CITY, 231.436.551

Nonna Lisa’s Italian Ristorante Stromboli, chicken parmesan, rosemary salmon, Nutella pizza. LD • BAR • $-$$ 312 S. HURON, MACKINAW CITY, 231.436.7901

Scalawags Whitefish & Chips Family restaurant with a nautical atmosphere features local whitefish, chowder and, of course, chips. LD • BAR • $ 226 E. CENTRAL, MACKINAW CITY, 231.436.7777

906.847.3331

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

AUG '19

77


dining | restaurant guide

CROSS VILLAGE/HARBOR SPRINGS/ PELLSTON/PETOSKEY American Spoon Café Gleaming black-and-white full-service cafe. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 413 E. LAKE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.7004

Barrel Back Smoked pork tacos, chopped salads, gourmet pizza and pasta, grilled beef tenderloin and more. Over 20 craft beers on tap and signature cocktails. LD • BAR $-$$$ 04069 M75, WALLOON LAKE, 231.535.6000

Beards Brewery Pizza, burgers, salads, wings and culinary surprises including pho. LD • BAR $$ 215 E LAKE ST. PETOSKEY, 231.753.2221

The Bistro Local favorite for saucer-sized homemade pancakes, home-cooked comfort food and soups like carrot bisque and chicken ’n’ dumpling. BL • $ 423 MICHIGAN ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.5583

Boyne Highlands Main Dining Room—Casual American with Scottish influences. Focus on fresh, seasonal, local ingredients. Seminole Pub. BLD • BAR • $–$$ 600 HIGHLANDS DR., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.3000

Chandler’s Brick-walled and -floored dining inside or on the patio offers two ways to savor this art-filled eatery’s upscale menu. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 215 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, BELOW SYMONS GENERAL STORE, 231.347.2981

City Park Grill Hemingway drank at the massive mahogany bar in this casual spot. Scratch cuisine, wood grill, hand-cut steaks, pastas, fresh whitefish, and live entertainment. LD • BAR • $$ 432 E. LAKE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.0101 Cormack’s Deli Award-winning deli featuring fabulous sandwiches, soups and bbq, open Mon.-Fri. 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. BL • $ 2569 CHARLEVOIX AVE., PETOSKEY, 231.347.7570 Dam Site Inn With views of the Maple River, this classic family dining establishment offers a bit of everything plus all-you-can-eat chicken dinners. D • BAR • $$$$$ 6705 WOODLAND RD., PELLSTON, 231.539.8851

The Depot Club & Restaurant Sophisticated menu including miso oven-braised lamb shanks and char-grilled tenderloin medallions with classic cognac sauce and wild mushrooms. D • WED. - SAT. 111 W. BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.4233

Douglas Lake Bar & Steakhouse Up North ambience, two fireplaces and a view of the lake pair with big steaks, whitefish, ribs and lamb. D • BAR • $$$ 7314 DOUGLAS LAKE RD., PELLSTON, 539.8588

Populace Coffee Artisan coffee and tea bar serving European-style pastries made on site and seasonally inspired lunch offerings. BL • BAR • $ 207 HOWARD ST., PETO-

Rusty Saw Smokehouse traditional barbecue. LD • $$ 3459 US31, BRUTUS, 231. 529.6574

Mim’s Mediterranean Grill A sunny hangout with homemade falafel, kebabs, spinach pie, saganaki and other Greek delights. LD • $-$$ 1823 U.S. 31 NORTH, PETOSKEY, 231.348.9994

Mitchell Street Pub and Café Classic pub with fresh peanuts, fantastic nachos, Maurice salad, patty melts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 426 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231. 347.1801

New York Restaurant Looks like the East Coast, tastes like heaven. D • BAR • $$-$$$ CORNER OF STATE AND BAY, HARBOR SPRINGS, 231. 526.1904

Odawa Casino Resort Sage—Sumptuous fine dining with curried grilled lamb loin, salmon saltimbocca, seared scallops and an extensive wine list. D, SUN. BRUNCH • BAR • $$-$$$ 1760 LEARS RD., PETOSKEY, 877.442.6464

Old World Cafe European-style breakfast and lunch. BL •

31, PELLSTON, 231.539.8588

Jose’s Authentic taqueria with made-to-order Mex. LD • $ 309 PETOSKEY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3299

Julienne Tomatoes Fresh sandwiches, comfort food, and homemade pastries like lemon raspberry bars, banana caramel flan. BL • $ 421 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, 231.439.9250 Legs Inn Timber and driftwood landmark set on a bluff above Lake Michigan that has been serving Polish and American specialties for the better part of a century. Garden dining. Entertainment. LD • BAR 6425 LAKE SHORE DR. (M-119), CROSS VILLAGE, 231. 526.2281

78

MyNorth.com

SPRINGS, 231.242.4777

Villa Ristorante Italiano Chianti bottles hang from stucco walls and authentic handmade pasta, osso bucco and hand-rolled cannoli star. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 887 SPRING ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.1440

NE W Willow Inspired farm-to-table modern American

cuisine with global wine and craft cocktail bar. D • BAR •

$$ 129 EAST BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.412.6032

Mackinaw City

Petoskey Charlevoix Ellsworth

Frankfort

Traverse City

HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.2967

Pour Public House Charcuterie, gourmet sandwiches, salads, soups, bruschetta. LD • BAR • $-$$ 422 E MITCHELL

Gaylord

Elk Rapids

• BAR • $$-$$$ 230 N US 31, PELLSTON, 231.539.7100

Pierson’s Grille & Spirits Ribs, whitefish, pizza, burgers and other staples of life. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 130 STATE ST.,

Boyne City East Jordan Bellaire

Nancy Kelly's Restaurant Fine dining with a flair. Chefprepared gourmet food. Crafted cocktails and a full bar. LD

Manistee

Kalkaska Grayling

Cadillac

ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9800

CHARLEVOIX & CHAIN OF LAKES

Roast & Toast Hip coffeehouse with daily house-made soups, bread, bakery items and salads. On-site coffee roasting. A consistent MyNorth Red Hot Best winner. BLD

ALDEN/ATWOOD/BELLAIRE/BOYNE COUNTRY/ RAPID CITY/WALLOON

Sam’s Graces Café & Bakery Artisanal bakery and brick oven pizzeria. BL • $ 3393 STATE ST., HARBOR SPRINGS,

Bella Vita Casual fine dining Italian restaurant that utilizes the freshest ingredients northern Michigan has to offer whenever possible. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 02911 BOYNE CITY

• $ 309 E. LAKE STREET, PETOSKEY, 231.347.7767

231.242.1230

RD., BOYNE CITY. 231.582.3341

Side Door Saloon Excellent sandwiches, quesadillas, steak, whitefish and pastas. LD • BAR • $ 1200 N. U.S. 31,

Boyne Mountain Resort Everett’s Restaurant & Lounge—Elegantly prepared fish and game dishes. BLD • BAR • $-$$$; Eriksen’s—Stunning view of the slopes and menu with Austrian and German touches. BLD • BAR • $-$$; Forty Acre Tavern—American pub fare with an extensive beer list. LD • BAR • $-$$ ONE BOYNE MOUNTAIN RD.,

PETOSKEY, 231. 347.9291

Stafford’s Bay View Inn Gracious 1886 inn with big veranda, glorious gardens and bay view, American fare. Sun. brunch. BLD • $$-$$$ 2011 WOODLAND, PETOSKEY,

Hoppies Landing Pizzas, grinders, nachos, local fish, specialty brews, beautiful views from the Observation Lounge. Pellston Regional Airport. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1395 US

BLD • $ 250 E. MAIN ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.6041

Vernales Restaurant Chop house, sports bar and wine bar with patio dining. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 3018 M119, HARBOR

HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.4546

Duffy’s Garage and Grille Pasta, burgers, inventive pizzas LD • BAR • $$ 317 E LAKE ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3663 The Fish Restaurant Steaks, seafood and cocktails. D

SPRINGS , 231.526. FARM

Turkey’s Cafe and Pizzeria Special omelets, bagels, French toast, burgers, pizzas, calzones, and sandwiches— served by friendly folks in a quaint 110-year-old building.

Palette Bistro Little Traverse Bay views with casual upscale dining, outdoor seating and evolving seasonal menu. Wine bar, weekend brunch and popular happy hour. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 321 BAY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3321 The Paper Station Fresh, relaxed and inventive foods including five signature s’mores. BLD • $ 145 E. MAIN ST.,

Small Batch Quiche, inventive breakfast and lunch sandwiches in a creative atmosphere. BL • $ 117 W MAIN ST.,

The Garden Café Farm-to-plate experience in a historic barn set on a working farm. Wine tasting from the on-site vineyard. L • LIGHT D • BAR • $ 5581 S LAKE SHORE DR., HARBOR

PETOSKEY, 231.487.9900

$$ 6352 N. LAKESHORE DR., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.2148

SKEY, 231.838.9875

• BAR • $–$$$ 2983 STATE RD., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.3969

Thai Orchid Cuisine Outstandingly fresh and authentic noodles, curries and salads. LD • $-$$ 433 E. MITCHELL ST.,

HARBOR SPRINGS. 231.242.4655

231347.2771

Stafford’s Perry Hotel Circa-1899 hotel with wraparound front porch and killer views of Little Traverse Bay. LD • BAR • $$–$$$ CORNER OF BAY & LEWIS, PETOSKEY, 231.347.4000

Stafford’s Pier Regional cuisine. Pointer Room— fresh seafood. LD • BAR • $$ Dudley’s Deck—LD • BAR • $$ Chart Room—D • BAR • $$ 102 BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.6201

Tap30 Pourhouse Inventive sliders, award-winning chili, Frito pie and more along with 30 beers on tap. LD • BAR • $ 422 E MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9572

Teddy Griffin’s Roadhouse Casual spot to grab ribs, steak or fresh fish after golf or skiing and catch the game on TV. D • BAR • $$ 50 HIGHLAND PIKE RD., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.7805

Terrace Inn Planked whitefish and housemade desserts in a Victorian setting. D • BAR • $$ 1549 GLENDALE, PETOSKEY,

231.347.2410

BOYNE FALLS. 844.732.6875

Café Santé Beside Lake Charlevoix featuring bistro classics. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 1 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.8800

Dockside Burgers, beer and sunsets on Torch Lake. LD • BAR • $-$$ 6340 OLD TORCH LAKE DR., BELLAIRE, 231.377.7777

Friske Orchards Cafe Cheerful roadside restaurant features farm-fresh breakfasts, homemade soups, salads, sandwiches, a bakery. BL • $ 10743 U.S. 31 S., ATWOOD, 231.599.2604

The Muffin Tin Brain-bendingly good muffins, scones and lunch, too. BL • $ 9047 HELENA RD., ALDEN, 231.331.6808 Pelican's Nest Gourmet burgers, smoked ribs, sandwiches, salads homemade desserts. D • BAR $-$$ 5085 SHANTY CREEK RD, BELLAIRE, 231.533.9000

The Strand at Somerset Pointe Fresh fish and locally sourced ingredients. Steak, chicken and pasta also featured. Enjoy a breathtaking view of Sommerset Pointe Marina and Lake Charlevoix while you dine. Covered and open patio dining. Arrive by car or boat! Hours vary seasonally. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 00970 MARINA DR., BOYNE CITY, 231.592.7080


restaurant guide | dining

Red Mesa Grill Colorful decor and creative Latin American cuisine with Costa Rican and Argentinean influences punctuate this lively spot. LD • BAR • $$ 117 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.0049

Shanty Creek Resort Lakeview—Innovative regional cuisine at Shanty Creek Resort with a view of Lake Bellaire. Breakfast, lunch & dinner. The River Bistro— Breakfast buffet, sandwiches, pizzas and 45 regional beers on tap; Arnie’s at the Summit—Breakfast, Lunch, (springfall) Ivan’s Mountainside Gril—Schuss Village-Pub food. BLD • BAR 1 SHANTY CREEK RD. (M-88), BELLAIRE, 800.678.4111

Rowe Inn A unique fresh and from-scratch dining experience that has stood the test of time. D • BAR •$$$ 6303 E. Scovie’s Gourmet Fresh salads, sandwiches, soups and baked goods star here. Dinner is bistro-style comfort food.

Treetops Sylvan Resort Hunters Grille, & Sports Bar. Steak, burgers, ribs, pasta, signature pizza, chicken, fish and gluten-free selections. Featuring a selection of 100 Michigan craft beer, wines, fabulous martinis and the dynamic Cookies, our Treetops house band. BLD • BAR • $-$$$

Stafford’s Weathervane Local fish, seafood and regional cuisine in a Hobbit-style Earl Young stone structure with massive fireplace overlooking the Pine River Channel.

B & B Express Signature burgers on the menu and great breakfasts. BLD • $-$$ 203 S CEDAR ST., KALKASKA, 231.258.9778 Shirley’s Café An ultra-friendly, all-homemade oasis. BLD

JORDAN RD., ELLSWORTH, 231.588.7351

LD • $-$$ 111 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.7827

LD • BAR • $$ 106 PINE RIVER LN., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.4311

• $ 528 S. WILLIAMS ST., MANCELONA, 231.587.1210

Short’s Brewing Co. Sip Joe Short’s fabulous brew, and dine from the deli menu in a renovated hardware store. LD

Terry’s Place Small white-tablecloth eatery with a high tin ceiling. Try the perch or filet mignon. Mouthwatering.

NEW Terrain Restaurant Honest yet ambitious contem-

Torch Lake Cafe Inventive, ultra-fresh cuisine with sharable options like the seafood platter with black garlic butter. Or devour an elevated fried bologna sandwich with pickled green tomato and house Dijon all on your own...

• BAR • $ 121 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.533.6622

porary American food with a focus on local ingredients. D • BAR • $$ 213 N BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.350.7301

Torch Riviera Pasta, seafood, steaks, ribs, pizza. D • BAR • $$ 12899 CHERRY AVE., RAPID CITY, 231.322.4100

Walloon Lake Inn Exceptional culinary skills play out in a newly renovated, century-old pine-paneled lakeside lodge. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 4178 WEST ST., WALLOON LAKE VILLAGE, 231.535.2999

Wild Onion American fare, patio dining and Alden Mill House seasonings at all the tables. BLD • $ 9069 HELENA RD., ALDEN, 231.331.6777

CENTRAL LAKE/CHARLEVOIX/ EAST JORDAN/ELLSWORTH That French Place Authentic French creperie and ice cream shop. BLD • $ 212 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6037 Bridge Street Taproom Michigan craft brews, beerfriendly small plates, local charcuterie and bird’s-eye views of the yacht traffic on Round Lake. D L • BAR • $-$$ 202 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3466

The Blue Pelican A vintage 1924 inn, home to a genteel front porch, Carolina-style pulled pork, steaks, seafood and a blend of down South and Up North hospitality. D • BAR • $$ 2535 M-88, CENTRAL LAKE, 231.544.2583

The French Quarter New Orleans Casual and relaxed setting offering bistro fare on Round Lake. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 100 MICHIGAN AVE., CHARLEVOIX, 231.758.3801

East Park Tavern French-influenced American cuisine featuring prime rib, John Cross Whitefish and specialty cocktails at the Quay Restaurant and Terrace Bar in Charlevoix. LD • BAR • $$–$$$ 307 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7450

Esperance Gourmets will adore dishes prepared with dazzling technique in this specialty food and wine shop. D • $-$$$ 12853 U.S. 31 N., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.9300

The Front Porch Sit elbow-to-elbow with neighbors for fellowship and affordable home-cooked food. BL • $ 9235 MAIN ST., ELLSWORTH, 231.588.2000

Great Lakes Whitefish & Chips Deep-fried whitefish. LD • BAR • $$ 427 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.4374

D • BAR • $$ 112 ANTRIM ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2799

LD • BAR • $-$$ 427 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.6925

The Landing Restaurant Come by boat or car and watch the Ironton Ferry motor back and forth while you eat at this newly renovated lakeside fun-food spot on Lake Charlevoix. Beach fries, New England lobster roll, great burgers, bbq and other fab summertime food. LD • BAR • $-$$ 10231 FERRY RD., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2960

Northport Leland

Chef Charles’ Culinary Institute of America-trained Chef Charles Egeler makes gourmet pizzas, Ligurian-style takeout pesto, salads and sandwiches in a classic pizzeria. LD • $ 147 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.8901

Cellar 152 Gourmet meals to take out or eat in and wine bar on the Elk River. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 152 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.9000

Gates Au Sable Lodge Artful, home-cooking on the river with a takeout window for anglers. BLD • BAR $-$$ 471 STEPHAN BRIDGE RD., GRAYLING, 989.348.8462

The Local All-American breakfast and lunch done better. BL • $$ 145 AMES ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.498.2190

Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen Every day’s Mardi Gras at this festive spot, where Cajun, Creole, seafood, sandwiches and big brunches accompany lively Zydeco, jazz and blues. LD • BAR • $-$$ 617 AMES, ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.0530 Siren Hall Sup on classics such as short ribs, steak frites, fresh-off-the-plane fruits de mer and homey sides like risotto “tots” and bleu cheese green beans. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 151 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231. 264.6062

Bennethum’s Northern Inn Fresh eclectic cuisine and updated regional favorites in a cozy Northwoods setting. Creative kids menu, Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 3917 SOUTH OLD 27, GAYLORD, 989.732.9288

Michaywé Inn the Woods Casual, Up Northy, with a lake view, steaks and seafood. LD • BAR • $–$$ 1535 OPAL LAKE RD., MICHAYWÉ, 989.939.8800

Otsego Club American and international menu, nice wine list in a log lodge overlooking the Sturgeon River Valley. The Duck Blind Grille—Casual evening dining. D • BAR • $$

GAN AVE., GRAYLING, 989.745.6388

LD • BAR • $-$$ 230 FERRY AVE., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2960

Petoskey

ELK RAPIDS/GAYLORD/GRAYLING/ KALKASKA/MANCELONA

Jordan Inn Victorian B&B with terrific eggs Benedict and crêpestyle pancakes, fresh lunches and European-style dinners by reservation. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 288 MAIN ST., EAST Kelsey B’s Lakeside Food & Spirits Dine on burgers, steaks and fish and soak up the Lake Charlevoix views.

Mackinaw City

Villager Pub Terry Left’s downstairs digs feature a ’50s atmosphere, whitefish, Mexican, ribs, sandwiches, pizza.

696 E. MAIN ST., GAYLORD, 989.732.5181

JORDAN, 231.536.9906

Trout Town Café Homey fishermen spot with sautéed rainbow trout and eggs, pecan-crusted French toast for breakfast; braised brisket and home-roasted turkey for dinner. BLD • $ 306 ELM ST., KALKASKA, 231.258.2701

BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 4990 US31 N, CENTRAL LAKE, 231.599.1111

Grey Gables Inn Graceful, intimate Victorian across from the harbor. D • BAR • $–$$$ 308 BELVEDERE, CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.9261

WILKINSON RD., GAYLORD, 800.444.6711

Paddle Hard Brewing A fun-loving community hangout with artisan tacos, pizzas and brews. LD • BAR 227 E MICHISpike’s Keg O’ Nails An Up North classic for burgers since 1933. LD • BAR $ 301 N. JAMES ST., GRAYLING, 989.348.7113 Tap Room 32 Twenty handles of Michigan craft beers and a menu of modern brew-friendly vittles like truffle fries and Korean beef tacos. D • $$ 141 NORTH COURT AVE., GAYLORD, 989.748.8552

The Old Depot 1900s train depot features homestyle burgers, steaks, chops, prime rib, seafood, pies and pastries. BLD • $$ 10826 M-32 E., JOHANNESBURG, 989.732.3115 Sugar Bowl Restaurant This vintage 1919 eatery serves whitefish, prime rib and Greek specialties. BLD • BAR • $$$$$ 216 W. MAIN ST., GAYLORD, 989.732.5524

Suttons Bay Glen Arbor Cedar Empire Traverse City Frankfort

Manistee

Gaylord

Cadillac

LEELANAU COUNTY 45th Parallel Cafe Artsy spot with creative breakfast and lunch. BL • $-$$ 102 S. BROADWAY, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2233 Art’s Tavern Burgers, whitefish, steaks, Mexican and pizza. Smelt year-round at this legendary watering hole. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 6487 W. WESTERN AVE., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.3754

Barb’s Bakery House-baked goods famous for cinnamon twists, doughnuts, croissants and more. $ 112 N. MILL ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.5851

Blu Exquisite regional cuisine from chef Randy Chamberlain in an intimate setting on Sleeping Bear Bay. D • BAR • $$$$ LAKE ST., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.2530

The Bluebird A mainstay for locals and boaters since 1927. Specialties: cinnamon rolls, whitefish, seafood, steak, pasta, creative ethnic feasts during the off-season. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR $$ 102 E. RIVER ST., LELAND, 231.256.9081 Big Cat Brewing Company Formerly the Cedar Rustic Inn, serves the same great comfort food including pot roast, perch and Southern-fried chicken, but now with house-brewed beer. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 8699 S. GOOD HARBOR TR., CEDAR, 231.228.2282

Boone Dock’s Log lodge with roomy deck, shrimp, burgers, steaks. LD • BAR • $$ 5858 MANITOU, GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.6444

Boone’s Prime Time Pub Seafood, steaks and burgers in a cozy cabin with a fireplace and a lively, friendly wait staff. LD • BAR • $$ 102 ST. JOSEPH, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.6688 NE W Broomstack Kitchen & Taphouse Great burgers, hand-cut fries, Sicilian-style pizza. Curling in the winter. LD • BAR • $ 172 W BURDICKVILLE RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.8869

The Cove Seafood, steaks and great bar food (don’t miss the Chubby Mary—a bloody Mary with a smoked chub in it!) served up in the heart of Fishtown on the Leland River. Sunny days, catch a seat at Rick’s Café on the deck LD • BAR • $$-$$$ LELAND, 231.256.9834 Dick’s Pour House Homemade soups and pies, sandwiches, pizza. LD • BAR • $-$$ 103 W. PHILIP ST., LAKE LEELANAU, 231.256.9912

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dining | restaurant guide

Earth Wind & Fryer Fresh, funky street food from this food truck. Duck burgers anyone? LD • $ 112 W NAGONABA ST., NORTHPORT, 231.432.0268

NEW Fig's Sandwiches, breakfasts, salads homemade

with local ingredients. Great selection of vegetarian dishes. BL • $$ 202 WEST MAIN STREET, LAKE LEELANAU, 231.256.7720

Fischer’s Happy Hour Tavern Rustic family-style roadhouse known for burgers, soups and raspberry pie in season.

Tucker’s of Northport Bistro-style casual fine dining featuring fresh, local whitefish, Great Lakes perch, cioppino, house-smoked ribs and wings, hand-pattied Angus burgers and carefully selected wine list. Meet. Dine. Bowl. LD • BAR • $-$$ 116 WAUKAZOO, NORTHPORT, 231.386.1061

Western Avenue Grill Birch-bark-rustic motif with canoes hung from the rafters. Pasta, seafood, whitefish and burgers. LD • BAR • $$ 6680 WESTERN AVE. (M-109), GLEN ARBOR, 231. 334.3362

Amical Friendly French bistro with a bay view, fireplace and street patio. Prix fixe menu from 4–5:30pm. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 229 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

VERSE CITY, 231. 922.8022 Mackinaw City

MCFARLANE, MAPLE CITY/BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3900

Garage Bar & Grill BBQ & bar eats are served at this pared-down watering hole with garage doors & a dogfriendly patio. LD • BAR • $-$$ 108 S WAUKAZOO ST., NORTH-

Petoskey

PORT, 231.386. 5511

Blue Tractor Cook Shop An Old Town favorite with from-scratch farmer food. Be sure to check out The Shed next door where you'll find a beer garden and a food truck where sliders are served up hot. The comfy burger bar boasts a list of over 25 Michigan-crafted beers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 423 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 922.9515

Hearth & Vine Café at Black Star Farms Farm-to-table menu that pairs with Black Star Farm’s wine, cider and craft cocktails. LD • BAR • $-$$ 10844 E REVOLD RD., SUTTONS

1 WOODRIDGE RD. (OFF M-22), GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.5000

231.642.5545

Bay Bread Company Bakery 43 artisanal breads, sandwiches, soups and salads. BLD • $ 601 RANDOLPH ST., TRA-

Funistrada Casual trattoria features Italian specialties such as veal saltimbocca and lasagna. D • BAR • $$ 4566

The Homestead Nonna’s Restaurant—Classically inspired, contemporary Italian cuisine. D • BAR $$-$$$ Beppi’s Sports Bar—Hand-tossed pizzas, paninis and salads. D • BAR • $-$$

Alliance James Beard-nominee Pete Peterson teams with up-and-coming chef James Bloomfield at this Warehouse District bistro. LD • BAR • $-$$ 144 HALL ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.941.8888

LD • BAR • $ 7144 N. M-22, BETWEEN NORTHPORT AND LELAND, 231.386.9923

BAY, 231.944.1297

DOWNTOWN TRAVERSE CITY

Old Mission

Frankfort

Gaylord

Acme Traverse City Interlochen

Brew Café and Bar Hip spot for a drink and light meal before or after performances at the Opera House. BLD • $ 108 E. FRONT STREET, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.2739

Bubba’s Happening Front Street spot with battered mahi and chips, burgers, chimis, salads, tacos. BLD • BAR • $ 428 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.995.0570

Manistee

Cadillac

Dayclub Fine dining experience for the whole family at the West Bay Beach Holiday Inn Resort. LD • BAR • $$-$$$

Hang-On Express Thai and Chinese classics. LD • $ 316

GRAND TRAVERSE AREA

Joe’s Friendly Tavern A rustic, comfy spot with bar food: whitefish, burgers, sandwiches, chili and soup. BLD • BAR •

INTERLOCHEN/LAKE ANN

The Cooks’ House A sweet little dollhouse of a spot, home to sustainable local cuisine with a French sensibility.

Knot Just a Bar Fish and burgers in a modern, beachy pub perched over pretty Omena Bay. LD • BAR •

Bradley’s Pub & Grille Burgers, ribs, bluegill, brisket, trout and so much more. LD BAR • $-$$ 10586 US31, INTER-

Cousin Jenny’s Cornish Pasties Homemade pasties. BLD

LOCHEN, 231.275.6401

• $ 129 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7821

Bud’s A reprise of the original Bud’s gas/bait shop is a cool hangout for locals, vacationers and Interlochen students. Try the cappuccinos and monkey bread, burgers and original sandwiches. BLD • $ 3061 M-137, INTERLOCHEN,

The Dish Cafe Eclectic menu with creative salads, quesadillas, enormous wraps, sandwiches and smoothies. LD • $

Dilbert’s Soups, Sandwiches, omelets and other home cooking served in a homey atmosphere. BLD • $ 11303 U.S.

S. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.1310

ST. JOSEPH, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.0202

$$ 11015 FRONT ST., EMPIRE, 231.326.5506

$-$$ 5019 BAY SHORE DR. (M-22), OMENA, 231.386.7393

La Bécasse Part the heavy velvet curtains and find a Provençal paradise. D • BAR • $$-$$$ C-675 & C-616, BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3944

Leland Lodge Bogeys—BLD • BAR • $-$$ 565 PEARL ST., LELAND, 231.256.9848

Little Traverse Inn Old World gastro pub highlights the food and beer of the British Isles. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 149 E. HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY. 231. 228.2560

The Manor on Glen Lake Fine family dining in a renovated lakeside inn. LD • BAR • $-$$ 7345 W. GLENMERE RD., GLEN LAKE AT THE NARROWS, 231.334.0150

Market 22 Deli, pizza, bakery. Eat in or take out. BLD •

231.276.9090

31, INTERLOCHEN, 231.275.3005

Hofbrau Lively cedar-paneled former general store serves locals and Interlochen performers. Steak, seafood, bluegill and barbecue. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 2784 M-137, INTERLOCHEN, 231.276.6979

Maddy’s Tavern Burgers, pizza, pasta, sandwiches. Friday night specials. LD • BAR • $-$$ 9205 U.S. 31, INTERLOCHEN,

BAR • $ 497 E HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6422

231.276.6244

Martha’s Leelanau Table A European-style cafe with an emphasis on regional cuisine made from scratch, including some gluten free dishes and pastries. BLD • BAR • $-$$$

OLD MISSION PENINSULA

413 N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2344

North Country Grill & Pub The Boone family keeps the classics (whitefish, prime rib, and yellow belly perch) while flirting with fondue, fried pickles, Phillys and Cubans. LD • BAR • $$ 420 ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.5000

The Mitten Brewing Co. Small craft brewery featuring appetizers, indoor lounge, covered patio and beer garden. LD • BAR • $ 112 W. NAGANOBA ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.1101

Bad Dog Deli Eat shrimp pizza, pepperoni pesto rolls or flavorful Boar’s Head sandwiches in this peninsula outpost. L • $ 14091 CENTER RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.9364 Boathouse Restaurant Casually elegant spot with great steaks, seafood, large local wine selection. Sunday brunch. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 14039 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY,

615 FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.3700

LD • $$-$$$ 115 WELLINGTON ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8700

108 S. UNION, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.2233

Firefly A dazzling small-plate menu, sushi, steaks and burgs at a sophisticated hotspot on the river. BL • $-$$ 310

Folgarelli’s Market & Wine Shop Lunch & dinner (eat here or to go), gourmet groceries, wines imported & local, vast selection of cured meats and cheese. LD • BAR • $-$$ 424 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7651

The Franklin Hip new downtown eatery featuring flatbread, salads, lamb and beef burgers, bistro dinners. Fabulous wine, craft beer, hard cider and perry. LD • BAR • $-$$ 160 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2727

Frenchies Famous Three tables and carryout, offers superb hot sandwiches and espresso drinks. LD • $ 619 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1228

Fustini's Fresh Take Healthy, tasty salads, soups and sandwiches to go with vegan and gluten-free choices. LD • $ 141 FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1145

Georgina’s Asian and Latin taqueria. LD • $ 236 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.1555

NE W The Good Bowl Fresh, authentic Vietnamese eat-

231.223.4030

ery. Donates $1 for every bowl to the charity of your choice.

Jolly Pumpkin Wood-fired steaks, fresh fish, and artisan pizzas along with fresh ales crafted on site. LD • BAR • $$

The Green House Café Sandwiches, soups and salads.

LD • BAR $-$$ 328 E FRONT ST.,TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.2662

Pegtown Station Pizza, subs, burgers, sandwiches, salads and breakfast—all done well. BL • $ 8654 S MAPLE CITY

13512 OLD PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4333

BL • $ 115 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.7687

Streetside Grille Seafood, burgers, pasta, flatbread pizzas, great beer list and more. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 111 N. ST.

Mission Table Farm-to-table restaurant serving seasonal, locally sourced fare and craft cocktails. D THURS-

Grand Traverse Pie Co. Exceptional cream and fruit pies, coffee, baked goods, pot pies, chicken salad and quiche. BL •

DAY, FRIDAY & SATURDAY 5PM–9PM • BAR • $-$$ 13512 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4222

Old Mission Tavern Prime rib, fresh fish, pastas and ethnic specials—this lushly landscaped spot hosts two fine-art galleries: Bella Galleria and sculptor/owner Verna Bartnick’s studio. LD • BAR • $$ 17015 CENTER RD., TRAVERSE

Harvest In brand new expanded location, local foods hip spot. LD • $ 136 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.486.6037 Little Bohemia Famous Olive Burger featured on Food Network. Established 1932, family tavern in The West End District, full menu, free off street parking, seasonal outdoor seating. LD 540 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.6925

RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6692

JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4199

The Tribune Ice Cream and Eatery House-cured lox, breakfast burritos, meatloaf sammies and burgers share the menu at this fun Northport eat spot. BLD • $ 110 E. NAGONABA ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.1055

Trish’s Dishes Crepes, omelets, salads, gourmet sandwiches. BLD • $ 407 E MAIN ST., LELAND, 231.994.2288

CITY, 231.223.7280

Peninsula Grill Roadhouse with cozy fireplace, wings, burgs, and regional Northern fare. LD • BAR • $$ 14091 CENTER RD. TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.7200

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$ 525 W. FRONT ST. AND 101 N. PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.7437


local table | dining

SMALL BATCH OF HARBOR SPRINGS 340 STATE ST. | 231.242.4686

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

Dusted with powdered sugar and plumped with juicy blueberries, the lemon-glazed sweetened ricotta pancakes at Small Batch of Harbor Springs are appropriately named The Heavenly. The divine pancakes have been a bestseller at the intimate bakery and restaurant for more than three years, and, blessedly, breakfast is served all day. The decadent menu is rounded out with savory options like Son of a Biscuit—ham, cheddar, tomato, dijonnaise and a fried egg stacked on a grilled buttermilk biscuit. Lauretta Reiss, a former shoe designer for Rocket Dog, is the owner and creative force behind Small Batch. Her eclectic eatery feels like the home of a favorite aunt. Tables are set with stacks of books with titles like The Bar Hopper Handbook, a pair of reading glasses and fresh flowers. No two chairs are the same, the walls are covered with vivid paintings and Lauretta has a wild collection of salt and pepper shakers—a pair of owls, Smokey the Bear and orange wedges are just the start. And the delightful restrooms—well, you’ll just have to peek inside. smallbatchharborsprings.com —C.S.

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dining | restaurant guide

Little Fleet A bar/food truck compound that hosts the likes of Pigs Eatin’ Ribs (all things pork), Roaming Harvest (pork tacos) Anchor Station (burgers and more). LD • BAR • $ 448 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.1116

Mackinaw Brewing Co. Nautical-themed brewpub offers great house-smoked meats, several styles of beers, tasty char-burgers, fish and ribs. LD • BAR • $$ 161 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 933.1100

Mama Lu’s Modern Day Taco Shop Fresh tortillas with a mix of traditional and modern ingredients at this hip, fun taqueria and bar. LD • BAR • $$ 149 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2793

Milk & Honey Salads, sandwiches and homemade ice cream all made with local ingredients that are natural, GMO-free and organic when possible. Gluten-free options available. LD • BAR • $ 250 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1036

Minerva’s In the historic Park Place Hotel. Italian-American menu, elaborate Sun. brunch. BLD • BAR • $$ 300 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5093

Mode’s Bum Steer Classic steakhouse serves tender, well-aged charbroiled Black Angus steaks, seafood, ribs, soup, sandwiches. LD • BAR • $$ 125 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE

Sorellina Authentic Italian pasta, zuppa and insalate. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

State Street Grille Downtown Traverse City sports bar featuring 11 big screens, bang bang shrimp, steaks, lobster mac and cheese, local beer, wine and spirits. LD • $-$$ 221 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.4263

Sugar 2 Salt Traverse City's newest brunch spot (otherwise known as S2S) shakes up the same ol' same ol' with dishes like duck (yes, for breakfast) and everything served up with what is in season. B • $-$$ 1371 GRAY DR., SUITE 300, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.409.8382

Taproot Cider House Brick oven pizza, great salads, inventive entrees paired with hard cider, microbrews, wine and spirits. LD • BAR • $-$$ 300 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.943.2500

The Towne Plaza Eclectic American cuisine focusing on local ingredients with extensive outdoor seating and a casual atmosphere. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 202 E. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.090

Warehouse Kitchen & Cork Seasonally inspired farm-tofork restaurant inside Hotel Indigo. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 263 WEST GRANDVIEW PARKWAY, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0500

TRAVERSE CITY–SOUTH Agave Mexican Grill Authentic, freshly made Mex. LD • BAR • $-$$ 851 S. GARFIELD, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.4408

Boone’s Long Lake Inn Steaks, prime rib, seafood, daily specials. D • BAR • $$ 7208 SECOR RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.3991

Centre Street Café Fine and flavorful sammies. Saturday brunch 10:30am-6pm. Mon.-Fri. Open 10am-3pm. Closed Sunday. BL • $ 1125 CENTRE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5872 The Filling Station Microbrewery Thin-crusted woodfired flatbreads and flavorful house brews revitalize the Depot. LD • BAR • $-$$ 642 RAILROAD PLACE, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8168

Hunan Authentic Chinese eatery that’s hidden behind a Taco Bell. L (TUE-SUN) D (FRI-SUN) • $ 1425 S. AIRPORT RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.1388

The Kitchen Salads, wraps, tacos. All to go. BL & EARLY D • $ 1254 WOODMERE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.TOGO

Mulligan’s Pub and Grill Stuffed burgers, extravagant salads and sammies, ribs and whitefish at this year-round establishment at the Crown Golf Course. LD • BAR • $-$$

White on Rice Sushi & ramen served carry out or dine in. Text or call ahead for orders. LD • $-$$ 510 W 14TH ST.,

2430 W. CROWN DR., AT THE CROWN GOLF CLUB, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.2975

231.941.7325

TRAVERSE CITY–EAST

260 E. TENTH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.0191

Omelette Shoppe Vast array of omelets, homemade breads and pastries, soup and sandwiches. BLD • $ 124

Cottage Café Comfortable food, coffee and tea press pots, friendly service, reasonable prices in a unique Traverse City experience. BLD • $-$$ 472 MUNSON, TRAVERSE

CITY, 231.947.9832

North Peak Brewing Co. Wood-fired pizzas, seafood, sandwiches, microbrewed beer and a jam-packed bar scene. LD • BAR • $$ 400 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

CASS, 231.946.0912, AND 1209 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0590

Paesano’s Charming spot with cozy booths puts pizza pie on a pedestal. LD • $ 447 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.5740

Pangea’s Pizza Pub Craft pies, creative toppings. LD •

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.633.7423

CITY, 231.947.9261

Don’s Drive In A ’50s-style diner and drive-in with booths, burgers, fries, shakes, nostalgic jukebox. LD • $ 2030 U.S. 31 N., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.1860

NEW Park Street Cafe Fresh-made gourmet sandwich-

Grand Traverse Resort and Spa Aerie—16th-floor panorama of East Bay and regional fine dining. Music on weekends. D • BAR • $$-$$$ Sweetwater American Bistro—BLD

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.239.8150

La Señorita Bustling Mexican cantina with fajitas, jumbo margaritas. LD • BAR • $ 2455 N. US 31 S., TRAVERSE CITY,

BAR $-$$ 135 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.9800

es (breakfast waffle sandwich!) and other grab-and-go foods. Indoor and outdoor seating. BL • $ 113 S. PARK ST.,

• $$ U.S. 31 N., ACME, 231.534.6000

Patisserie Amie French bakery and bistro. BAR • LD •

231.947.8820

Poppycock’s Fresh seafood, pasta, unique sandwiches and salads, including vegetarian specialties and awardwinning desserts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128. E. FRONT ST. TRAVERSE

CITY, 231.421.8800

$-$$$ 237 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.9645

CITY, 231.941.7632

Rare Bird Brewery The likes of pork belly sliders, oysters on the half shell and great burgers served up alongside great beer. LD • BAR • $$ 229 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2053

Red Ginger Wrap yourself in fresh-sleek surroundings and the spicy-exotic flavors of Asia. D • BAR • $-$$$ 237 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1733

Scalawags Whitefish and Chips A new location for ultrafresh Great Lakes fish fry. LD • $ 303 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8700

Seven Monks Taproom Pair any of 46 beers on tap (including European Trappist ales) with your burger, thin crust gourmet pizza, salad or lively sides like sweet potato frites and Scotch egg. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.4807

NEW Smokehouse Mac Shack Inventive mac n’ cheese

to go. LD • $ 439 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5001 Sparks BBQ Smoking up the real thing—pulled pork and chicken, brisket, ribs and jerky. Don’t miss the BBQ Sundae. LD • $-$$ 201 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.633.7800

Slate Prime cuts of beef and the freshest seafood with inspired toppings and sides. D • BAR • $$$ 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

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McGee’s No. 72 Gourmet burgers, fries, pizza and other sophisticated bar food. D • BAR • $$ 4341 M72 E., TRAVERSE Mr. C’s Pub and Grill Fine pub food with excellent wines and craft beers—paired with menu entrees for your convenience. LD • BAR • $$ M-72 E., WILLIAMSBURG, 231.267.3300 Randy’s Diner Soups, salads, sandwiches, all-you-caneat cod. BLD • $ 1103 S. GARFIELD, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0789 Red Mesa Grill Colorful spot with a fireplace, flights of tequila and Latin American cuisine. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1544 US31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.2773

Reflect Bistro and Lounge at Cambria Suites Hotel Breakfast, dinner and Happy Hour 4-7 p.m. daily. BD • BAR • $-$$$ 255 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.778.9000

Smoke and Porter Public House An American smokehouse where farm-to-table and whole beast butchery meet the fire pits. Serving microbrews, wine, and liquor.

Oryana’s Lake Street Café Classic Detroit-style coney and grill with mouthwatering Greek treats like crunchy falafel, rich spanakopita, gyros and lemon soup. BLD • $-$$ Right Brain Brewery Traverse City’s beloved brew pub now at a new location. BAR • $ 225 E. 16 ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1239

Sauce at Incredible Mo’s Artisan pizza, pasta, salad in a kid-friendly atmosphere. LD •BAR • $-$$ 1355 SILVER LAKE CROSSINGS BLVD, GRAWN, 231.944.1355

Willie’s Rear Full breakfasts, sandwiches, burgers. Counter and table seating. BL • $ 1315 W. S. AIRPORT RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5506

TRAVERSE CITY–WEST Apache Trout Grill Rough-hewn eatery affords a great bay view along with ribs, steak, pasta and salad. LD • BAR • $$ 13671 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.7079

Harrington’s By the Bay Sunday brunch, seafood, steaks, burgers, sandwiches—with a bay view. BLD • BAR

• $-$$$ 13890 SOUTH WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.9393

Nada’s Gourmet Deli & Mediterranean Cuisine Authentic hummus, tabbouleh, chicken shawarma, falafel, the best baklava in Traverse City. LD • $ 542 W FRONT ST, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.6779

PepeNero From-scratch southern Italian cuisine. LD • BAR • $$ 700 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1960 Red Spire Brunch House Classic American fare: breakfast and lunch all day. BL • $$ 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., ST. 30, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.4648

LD • BAR • $-$$$ 1752 US31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5020

Sleder’s Family Tavern Bar fare and entertainment under the original tin ceiling in one of Michigan’s oldest saloons. Kiss Randolph the moose before you leave. LD • BAR • $-$$

The Soup Cup, a MicroSouperie Homemade soups, grilled cheese, Belgian fries. L • $ 718 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE

The Silver Swan Ethnic fare and killer desserts. LD • $

717 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9213

CITY, 231.932.7687

13692 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0203

Turtle Creek Casino & Hotel Bourbons 72—Seafood, prime rib and more. D • BAR • $-$$$ 7741 M-72, WILLIAMSBURG,

Spanglish Authentic, homemade Mexican fare with occasional American accents. BLD • $ 1333 YELLOW DR.,

231.534.8888

TRAVERSE CITY. 231.943.1453

Thai Café Eat in or take out authentic Thai cuisine in a cafe atmosphere. LD • $-$$ 1219 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1303

Tastes of Black Star Farms Matterhorn Grill Dinner featuring Leelanau Cheese Company raclette and wine samples. D • BAR • $$$ 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR. SUITE 35 (GRAND TRAVERSE COMMONS), TRAVERSE CITY. 231.941.1349


restaurant guide | dining

Trattoria Stella Hip locally sourced fare with an Italian accent. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1200 W. ELEVENTH, TRAVERSE CITY,

CADILLAC

The Underground Cheesecake Co. Housemade soups, sandwiches and a huge array of incredibly delish cheesecakes. L • $ 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.4418 West End Tavern Craft cocktails, wood-roasted chicken and more elevated pub fare served up beside West Bay. LD • BAR • $$ 12719 SOUTH WEST BAYSHORE DR.,

$ 127 W. CASS ST., CADILLAC, 231.468.3526, AFTER26PROJECT.ORG

231.929.8989

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2922

After 26 Casual eatery dedicated to employing adults with developmental disabilities and cognitive impairment. BLD •

Cadillac Grill This lodge–style, car-themed eatery’s cuisine runs from bar food to fine dining. LD • BAR • $$ 7839 E. 46 K RD.,

The Glenwood Casual dining, almond-battered shrimp and bleu cheese filet mignon, homemade desserts. Open for dinner at 5 p.m. D • BAR • $–$$$ 4604 MAIN ST.,

MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC, 231.775.6150

Frankfort Beulah Benzonia Onekama Manistee

Coyote Crossing Resort Full bar & restaurant with Northwoods décor set on beautiful property in the Manistee National Forest. American fare. Live music. Open six days a week year round. LD • BAR • $$ 8593 S. 13 RD., CADILLAC, 231.862.3212

Gaylord

Traverse City

Cadillac

BENZIE, MANISTEE, CADILLAC BENZONIA/BEULAH/HONOR/THOMPSONVILLE The Cherry Hut Homemade cherry pies, jams, jellies, red-and-white-clad servers and American-style food. LD • $-$$ 211 N. MICHIGAN AVE. (US 31), BEULAH, 231.882.4431

Cold Creek Inn Perch, planked whitefish, homemade pizza, burgers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 185 S.BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.882.5531

Crystal Café American café-style breakfast and lunch. BL • $ 1681 BENZIE HWY. BENZONIA, 231.882.9565

Crystal Mountain Resort Thistle Pub & Grille—Woodpaneled eatery, continental and Scottish specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$$ Wild Tomato Restaurant & Bar—Family Favorites. BLD • BAR • $-$$ M-115, THOMPSONVILLE, 231.946.3585 OR 231.378.2000

Geno’s Sports Bar and Grill Burgers, broasted chicken, pizza, soups, salads. LD • BAR • $ 14848 THOMPSON AVE., THOMPSONVILLE, 231.378.2554

Hungry Tummy Restaurant Full breakfasts (chickenfried steak, eggs and gravy ... ), pizza, broasted chicken and more. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 226 S. BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.882.5103

L’chayim Delicatessen NY-style deli with sandwiches and bagels. BL • $ 274 S. BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.882.5221 The Manitou Whitefish, perch, duck with cherry sauce, ribs, steaks, seafood. Nine miles north of Frankfort on M-22. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 4349 NORTH SCENIC HWY., HONOR, 231.882.4761

Papa J’s Pizzeria & Diner Sparkling diner serving homemade dishes and fine pizza pie. Weekend buffets and everyday pizza lunch buffet. BLD • $ 10583 MAIN ST., HONOR, 231.325.7070

Evergreen Resort Terrace Room restaurant—Stellar water and woods views plus American fare, Sun. brunch and sandwiches. BLD • BAR • $$ Curly’s Up North Bar & Grill—Casual bar food in a snug knotty-pine setting. Live entertainment. LD • BAR • $$ 7880 MACKINAW TRAIL, CADILLAC, 231.775.9947

Hermann’s European Cafe Austrian-born master pastry chef Hermann Suhs creates international cuisine, seasonal specialties and divine desserts in an alpenhaus-style dining room. LD • BAR • $$ 214 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.9563 Herraduras Mexican Bar & Grill Authentic dishes like flautas, enchiladas and carnitas, plus shrimp chimis and steaks. LD • BAR • $ 1700 S. MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC, 231.775.4575 Lakeside Charlie’s A fine deck on Lake Mitchell. The hunt club–style restaurant features burgers, aged beef, fish and wild game. LD • BAR • $$ 301 S. LAKE MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.5332

Maggie’s Tavern Chili, burgers, steaks, wet burritos and kid selections are served up in a lively 19th-century setting. LD • BAR • $ 523 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.1810

Arcadia Bluffs Golf Club & Restaurant Fresh fish, aged beef, Mediterranean rack of lamb and an emphasis on local ingredients all served with a spectacular view of Lake Michigan. BLD • $-$$$ 14710 NORTHWOOD HWY., ARCADIA, 231.889.3001

Birch & Maple Scratch cuisine prepared with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients. Friendly folks and fab craft cocktails. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 727 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0399

Blue Fish Kitchen & Bar New American cuisine, traditional fare, vegetarian and vegan. LD • BAR $-$$$ 312 RIVER ST., MANISTEE. 231.887.4188

Bungalow Inn This former rustic cabin offers steak, ribs and fish-fry specials, perch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1100 28TH ST., MANISTEE, 231.723.8000

The Cabbage Shed Suds, and superb eats like seared scallops, rack of lamb and Ritz-crusted walleye. D • $-$$ 198 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9843

Conundrum Cafe Light lunch fare, Hawaiian shave ice and alcohol available to purchase. BL • $-$$ 603 FRANKFORT AVE, ELBERTA, 231.352.8150

The Roadhouse Fresh Mex with a cool cantina atmosphere. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1058 MICHIGAN AVE., (US 31), BEN-

231.352.4611

ZONIA, 231.882.9631

Ursa Major Bistro Breakfast, burgers sandwiches. BLD • $-$$ 245 S BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4250

ONEKAMA, 231.889.3734

Hotel Frankfort Fine dining served up at this in-town inn. BLD • $-$$$ 231 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.8090

House of Flavors 50s diner featuring family style breakfasts, lunch and dinner. And, yes, a full ice cream menu. BLD • $-$$ 284 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.887.4600

L’chayim Delicatessen NY-style deli with sandwiches and bagels. BL • $-$$ 325 MAIN STREET, FRANKFORT, 231.352.5220 Lighthouse Café Robust breakfasts, soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, steak, perch, liver and onions. BLD • $–$$ 735 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA. 231.352. 5273

Mayfair Tavern Burgers, steaks, fish. LD • BAR $-$$ 515 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9136

North Channel Brewing Co. Watch the action at the drawbridge in a refined industrial atmosphere with meats smoked daily and excellent craft beers on tap. LD • BAR $-$$ 86 WASHINGTON ST, MANISTEE, 231.299.1020

Papano’s Pizza Traditional pizza pie. D • $–$$ 334 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.6700

Rico’s East Lake’s welcoming, true North watering hole with fresh smelt, burgs, and smoky adobo beef spring rolls. LD • BAR • $-$$ 900 CABERFAE HWY. (M-55), MANISTEE, 231.723.3721

River Street Station Cheers-esque, smoky burgerand-ribs joint with a summer deck that affords an up-close view of the freighter action along the Manistee River. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 350 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.723.8411

NE W Rock's Landing

FRANKFORT/ELBERTA/ONEKAMA/ MANISTEE/ARCADIA

Platte River Inn Classic dining in a casual atmosphere. Steaks, Italian, Mexican. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 10921 MAIN ST., HONOR, 231.227.1200

The Fusion Asian delights like fiery curries and lettuce wraps (plus creative cocktails) served in a serene atmosphere on Frankfort’s main drag. BLD • $–$$ 300 MAIN

ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.4114

MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.5461

Clam Lake Beer Company 40 craft beers on tap, woodfired pizzas, grilled angus burgers. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 106

Petoskey

LD• BAR • $-$$ 318 RIVER ST, MANISTEE, 231.887.4121

Blue Heron Cafe Dazzling upscale sandwiches, soups and salads as well as from-scratch pastries. BL • $ 304 N.

OVERLOOKING THE ELDORADO GOLF COURSE, CADILLAC, 231.779.3663

Mackinaw City

The Fillmore House-crafted burgers, salads and woodfired pizzas (p.m. only), all rich with Michigan ingredients.

Eclectic menu combines local ingredients with ethnic influences. Intimate dining, feet from Crystal Lake. D • BAR $$ 1157 CRYSTAL DR., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0158 Stormcloud Brewing Brewing Belgian-inspired ales to pair with inventive, smart bistro fare. LD • BAR • $-$$ 303 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.0118

Taco 'Bout It Mexican Fusion Tavo and Tarrah Hernandez turned their food truck into a restaurant dream-cometrue with ultra-fresh tacos on hand-pressed corn tortillas, aguas frescas and tamarind mules. LD • BAR • $-$$ 344 RIVER ST, MANISTEE, 231.887.4441

Timbers Restaurant Family-owned restaurant with steaks, prime-rib pasta , whitefish, craft beer, regional wines gourmet pizza, specialty salads. LD • BAR • $-$$ 5535 M-115, CADILLAC, 231.775.6751, FRANKFORT/ELBERTA

T.J.’s Pub Take a step down from the sloped sidewalk for panini, mex and pizza below the stately Ramsdell Inn. LD • BAR • $ 99 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.398.9174

Villa Marine Friday fish special. Saturday prime rib. American cooking. LD • $-$$ 228 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.5450, MANISTEE/ARCADIA/ONEKAMA

Yellow Dog Café Fabulous coffee, sandwiches, baked goods. LD • $ 4850 MAIN ST, ONEKAMA, 231.508.5008

Crescent Bakery Artisanal breads, pies, cheesecakes, and hand- decorated cookies. BL • $ 404 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, Dinghy’s Legendary for smoked meats, including ribs, pulled pork, brisket, chicken, turkey legs, chicken wings and fish fry. LD • BAR • $$ 415 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.4702

FIND MORE NORTHERN MICHIGAN RESTAURANTS! Go to MyNorth.com/Restaurants

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

AUG '19

83


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the spirit of summer

mammoth distilling | drinks

La Picante

Basking under the North’s cerulean summer sky is thirsty work. The best remedies we know are easy drinking August alchemies of white liquor, bright citrus and fresh herbs. Planning the perfect lakeside day drinking session takes some prep work though. Before slathering on the sunscreen, plan a morning jaunt to a weekend farmer’s market (Boyne City and Harbor Springs have bonus waterfront views) for fresh berries, fiery

½ 2 2 1 2

jalapeños, cucumbers, and fragrant bunches of fresh mint and cilantro. Muddling materials and garnishes in hand, make for a distillery tasting lounge like Mammoth Distilling’s digs in the TC Warehouse District and stock up on gin, vodka or white whiskey. Pack your cocktail kit, fill the cooler with ice, stock enough snacks and beeline for a preferred relaxing perch. You’ve earned it.—Tim Tebeau

ounce simple syrup sprigs cilantro slices jalapeno ounce lime juice ounces Mammoth Distilling Vodka cilantro sprig

In a pint glass, muddle simple syrup with cilantro sprigs and jalapeno slices. Add lime juice, vodka and ice and stir. Strain into a rocks glass, add ice and garnish with a fresh cilantro sprig.

SUMMER BAR CART Sip easy with these clear spirits from some of the North’s best stills. MAMMOTH DISTILLING VODKA Clean, smooth and triple distilled for maximum purity.

IRON FISH DISTILLERY MICHIGAN WOODLAND GIN Laced with hints of juniper and fragrant native botanicals like Concolor Fir.

ETHANOLOGY FRUMENTUM WHITE WHISKEY

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

Not your pappy’s moonshine, the smooth sophisticated Frumentum takes its cues from Shooks Farm blue corn.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

AUG '19

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Beautiful Arcadia Bluffs MyNorth is home of Traverse Magazine & MyNorth Tickets


bike | outdoors

SHIFTING GEARS Relish in August’s sun-soaked days and clear your mind on a road bike. TEXT AND PHOTOS BY ANDREW VANDRIE

Spanning 26 scenic miles—many along the Lake Michigan coastline—from Harbor Springs to Charlevoix, the paved Little Traverse Wheelway is ideal for early-morning rides. (Embark at daybreak to get a jump on August’s sweltering afternoons, and enjoy the ultimate reward of peddling at sunrise.) Strap on your bikes and drive to Petoskey’s East Park on Quarry Drive just off US 31. Pick up the trail here and head east for a relaxing pedal toward downtown Petoskey. Totaling just over 2.5 miles, this section of the trail meanders along the shore of Little Traverse Bay and over the Bear River as it spills into the bay. Adhere to some urban detours (read: obey traffic laws and watch for vehicles) and make a midmorning pit stop at Roast & Toast. Open every day from 7 a.m.–7 p.m. and parked on the main drag (E. Lake Street), this vibrant cafe is a terrific locale for an Americano and a chocolate chip muffin—don’t miss the back deck. Goodies now consumed, saddle up and backtrack to East Park. Load up the bikes once more and drive westward to Villa Road, also just off US 31. Park the car, unload and lock in for a pleasant 7-mile (each way) out-n-back. Just before Villa Road, there’s a small roadside park with two picnic tables and bay views for a quick breather. Want to tack on a few more miles? Continue west from Villa Road for approximately 2.5 miles to end up at Lake Michigan Shores Roadside Park. The park is an ideal spot for lunch and has restrooms and a fountain to refill water bottles. The site also serves as a memorial to a B-52 belonging to the 99th Bombardment Wing and its crew that was lost on January 7, 1971, during a training mission. Having caught your breath, turn back east for the final jaunt to the car (9.4 miles from the roadside park to East Bay Park).

Bike Advice While any bike will do, the ease and efficiency of a road bike for distance riding does wonders for your stamina. For those without a cycle, look into renting from Latitude 45 (latitude45.com) located on 476 W. Mitchell St. in Petoskey. Offering daily, overnight and weekend rates, the shop and its helpful staff will have you on the Wheelway pronto.

Andrew VanDrie writes from Traverse City. vandrieand@gmail.com

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87


love of the land

Hickory Meadows PHOTO BY HEATHER HIGHAM/SNAP HAPPY GAL PHOTOGRAPHY

T

eamwork makes the dream work in Traverse City. These 116 serene acres are protected by The Grand Traverse Regional Land Conservancy, owned by The Charter Township of Garfield & City of Traverse City and managed by Grand Traverse Conservation District. On the west end of town, this city oasis offers easy access for sunrise trail runs, midday dog walks, and peaceful sunset strolls. See GTRLC.ORG AND NATUREISCALLING.ORG for details and maps.—E.T.

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