Traverse Northern Michigan's Magazine, November 2020 by MyNorth

WHERE TO HIKE THIS HUNTING SEASON ART TO PRESERVE TORCH LAKE // A CUP OF TEA FOR YOUR SOUL

shop local! MYNORTH HOLIDAYS INSIDE!

A BOUNTIFUL HOLIDAY ROASTING CHESTNUTS // RECIPES FROM NEIGHBORS AND CHEFS THE PERFECT LOCAL TURKEY (WITH COOKING TIPS!)

oast r o t Ready the season! for

THE ICEMAN COMETHâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S 30TH

A CYCLIST, HER NEMESIS AND AN UNFORGETTABLE RIDE

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Contents

Discover more about Up North, people, places, food and events.

november | features

20 20 | FROM ICEMAN TO MUDMAN

In 2019, Bell’s 30th annual Iceman Cometh Challenge—a 30-mile mountain bike race from Kalkaska to Traverse City—was buried in a half-foot of snow and mud. The result? An unforgettable ride from start to finish.

26 | UNDER THE SPREADING CHESTNUT TREE Inspired by nature and food, a Cross Village artist shares her heart and art— and roasted chestnuts—in a tiny hamlet at the tip of the mitt.

32 | HOLIDAY RECIPES OF THE NORTH We’ve shared hundreds of holiday recipes over the years, so this season, we’ve compiled a few of our favorites from chefs, bakers, farmers and neighbors.

34 | THE GIFT OF FRESH FOOD It takes a community to grow and deliver local produce to area residents facing food insecurity. Lucky for us all, Northern Michigan is that community. Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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contents | departments

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5 | EDITOR’S NOTE

41 | DINING

7 | UP NORTH A 10-year-old philanthropist is raising funds to buy bikes for kids (she’s donated more than 140 so far!). Plus, tips for cooking the perfect turkey and a curated list of cozy winter reads (and where to find them locally).

12 | NOVEMBER EVENTS Get in the holiday spirit with festive parades, tree lightings and plenty of Shop Local events.

15 | TRAVEL downtown suttons bay

Linger over conversations, not the dishes, when you let the pros at these four restaurants take care of Thanksgiving dinner.

16 | UP IN MICHIGAN Northern Michigan, and the promise of returning home to Crystal Lake, inspires one man’s battle with cancer.

19 | OUTDOORS We love getting outdoors in every season, but come fall, it’s important to be aware of hunters when hiking. These natural areas don’t allow hunting—and the

This holiday season, we give thanks for the bountiful diversity of restaurants that call the North home, and celebrate the spirit within each that gives back to us all.

45 | LOCAL TABLE Take your bread baking game to the next level with this recipe for French baguettes from Gildas’ Lake Street Bakery, formerly Boyne City Bakery.

47 | DRINKS There are few better times to snuggle up with a steamy cuppa than when cooler temps descend Up North. Stay cozy this fall with locally grown tea.

48 | LOVE OF THE LAND TRUE BLUE Gallery in Alden aims to help visitors, vacationers and residents enjoy and understand the Torch Lake watershed, all while showcasing the work of local artists.

ON THE COVER Chestnuts ready for roasting at Three Pines Studio Photo by Jesse Green

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Elegance on Lake Michigan A MyNorth Media Publication VOLUME 40 • NUMBER 6

PRESIDENT/EDITOR IN CHIEF

Deborah Wyatt Fellows

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Michael Wnek

MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL AND CONTENT EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR PROOFREADERS REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS GRAPHIC DESIGNER

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Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly by Prism Publications Inc., 125 S Park Street, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, 125 Park St, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $24.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $4.50. Manuscripts must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. All rights reserved. Copyright 2020, Prism Publications Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

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editor’s note

Reflections on Gratitude BY DEBORAH WYATT FELLOWS

Last March, the world went on tilt and, as we all know, it has not yet righted itself. There have been so many lives crushed in incalculable ways and so much we feel helpless to impact. Northern Michigan has seen loved ones sickened by COVID-19 and the need to shut down has caused significant stress on our small businesses. Knowledge, giving back and finding gratitude are some antidotes we have in the face of helplessness and despair. I’m grateful for our region that gives so much back to each other. In just this issue, we feature Farm2Neighbor’s commitment to the food insecure and local farmers; the giving soul of Joann Condino and her late-husband, Gene Reck; global food restaurant owners stressing their need to share with others; and 10-year-old Piper Shumar’s quest to make sure other kids have bikes. This issue also includes GIVE, filled with the passion and commitment of our nonprofits and making it easier for all of us to give locally. I am grateful for all the people who were kind to our region’s small businesses, ordering takeout or online items when the world shut down. And when we opened back up, I am grateful to those who showed patience and kindness by wearing masks, understanding delays and recognizing that everyone was doing their best. We all know it didn’t always go that way; businesses I respect had to send out pleas for people to be kind to their staff and patient with the situation. But there is much gratitude throughout the region and in our company, to all the people who recognized we are all in this together.

When everyone went home to work in March, I admit to being scared that the magazine, the company and our ability to ensure everyone’s job would not survive COVID-19. Like so many of our small businesses, we applied for PPP, worked harder, innovated and turned toward the challenge. The team that scattered to homes in March were as scared for their future as any people in the country. But no one did anything but put their heads down to move us forward. As I write this, we are all still in our homes. We see each other only on screens but, for my part, I’ve learned to value even more those faces and smiles that pop up as each person joins a meeting. How casually we took our ability to interact with ease and at will when we were in the office. But how well we all now understand the value of interaction, for our work and for our spirits. I have been truly honored to work with these people who wake up every day to capture this place of our hearts and support the region’s entrepreneurs, all with kids and dogs, elderly parents and twenty-somethings now a part of their workplace. No one can predict anymore what the future holds, but out of this incredible effort has emerged what looks like a solid future for our products and our staff. And I am so grateful. In the time of COVID, like all of us who now work remotely, I rediscovered my home. In the 27 years since we stayed up all night debating whether to buy a little cottage on the lake, I’ve never spent so much quiet time in my home. I know in the boisterous years of kids I always stopped to turn

my face to the breeze or to imprint a certain light, but it was like taking a short drink of water. This summer was like diving into an endless pool. A breeze blew gently on me all summer and into the fall as my remote working spot was mostly a table in front of large screen doors. Day after day, our nowquiet home allowed sounds to reach me as never before; the steady lap of water on the shore whose rhythm spoke of the change in the wind, the purr of a boat motor as it passed, the drifting conversation of birds and of occasional kayakers who paddled side by side as they chatted. In all these years, I’ve never been so in sync, day in and day out, with the peaceful sounds of a summer Up North. It was a hot summer and there were days the whole world became still. The water had no reason to flow; the birds no energy to converse. And on those days, I’d find some relief under the high branches of a huge hemlock that leans ever-so-slightly toward our house, a reminder of those months when the breeze turns to a howl. Sometimes I went swimming. Because I could. It reminded me of the first years of the magazine, when we’d take our suits to work and go swim in the bay on our lunch hour. It had that same sense of utter freedom, of a work life lived differently, of balance. The changing light, the sounds, the strong wind and the still: I’m grateful for Northern Michigan and for home. In the face of COVID-19, the world decided to go outdoors. I admit to having to work hard to find gratitude that our favorite hikes were now 4

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editor’s note so crowded that cars lined the roads outside the small parking lots. But I reminded myself that it is always a good thing for people to find the joy of the woods, to spend time with family and friends, get exercise, and marvel at places they’d not seen before. It is good for humanity and for preservation. And yet, us being us, my husband Neal and I sought quieter places. And we found them. Lesser known preserves. Dirt roads in the parks we have never walked, where towering, untouched trees offered my most favorite of canopies. We explored, starting down the hint of paths that sometimes rewarded us and sometimes simply evaporated. Once, one of these small paths led us to the remains of an old farmstead, and standing beside it, in the time of COVID, it was easier than ever before to imagine that isolation and quiet. Neal and I still explore, even as the crowds ease with colder weather. We have been given a gift; there are still surprises in this place we know so well. I am grateful COVID allowed so many to discover our beautiful places and to feel their value. And I’m grateful COVID gave Neal and me back our wonder at discovery. Like all of you, COVID-19 has made me grateful for family and friends who I didn’t see for many months and gradually began seeing outdoors on occasion. We were lucky to have our daughter home from college and when each of the other kids finally just had to come home, we distanced inside the house, with masks. I miss their faces, but I’ve come to love their eyes, the way some of them talk with their hands, the sound of their laughter, and how my mind fills in the smiles I know so well. Like each of you who are as lucky, I am so grateful the people I love are healthy. In the face of a world on tilt, I lean on knowledge, giving back and finding gratitude. And I wish the best for each of you.

Deborah Wyatt Fellows is founder and editor in chief of Traverse Magazine/MyNorth.com. debwf@traversemagazine.com.

MyNorth.com

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Up North

PIPER SAYS, MAKE SURE TO WEAR YOUR HELMET!

THIS GIRL CAN Piper Shumar believes every child who wants a bike should have one, and she’s dedicated to making it happen. Every week for the past three years, Piper has spent hours collecting and returning pop cans to raise money to buy bikes. It’s called “Piper’s Project This Girl Can.” So far, the hardworking fifth grader has donated more than 140 bikes, and she’s not stopping any time soon. BY CARLY SIMPSON PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE SHUMAR FAMILY

WAYS TO GET INVOLVED Follow Piper’s Project on Facebook at facebook.com/pipersproject. Drop off cans at Timber Ridge. Once you get to the resort, follow signs to the end of the “can rainbow.” Donate at paypal.me/pipersproject. Buy a T-shirt, available at Timber Ridge for $15 or fill out an order form. (Piper was still working on the form at the time of writing: Check Facebook for updates.)

Piper wants to be a scientist when she grows up, or a hair stylist. Her favorite subjects at school are math, science and gym. And she loves to bike. Piper started competing in the Sno-Cone—the halfpint version of the Iceman Cometh Challenge—when she was three, and she’s completed the Slush Cup, a shorter version of Iceman, twice. She’s conquered the eight-mile kids route at the Traverse City Trails Festival and the course at Mud, Sweat & Beers. Her next goal is to complete the M22 Challenge in Glen Arbor—a 2.5-mile run (with a 100-yard ascent up the Dune Climb), 17-mile bike ride and 2.5-mile paddle. “I can do it now!" Piper says without doubt. "It says you have to be 10 years old and I’m 10 now.” Piper’s Project fittingly started at a bike race. In November 2018, Piper and her parents, George and Kimberly, were camping at Timber Ridge RV & Recreation Resort during Iceman (George was doing the full 30-mile race and Piper was taking on the Slush Cup for the first time). “I saw there were so many cans around the campground and I wanted a winter helmet for biking,” Piper says. “I thought, ‘I can get the cans and I can buy myself a helmet.’ So, I went around with a wagon and there were like 10 loads. I got $97. It was actually my dad and mom’s idea to buy a bike.” 4

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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up north | this girl can Northern Michigan

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“We always do Bikes for Tikes, where we help build bikes that are being donated to Toys for Tots,” George says. “I told Piper, ‘Why don’t we buy a bike and donate it.’ She wanted to buy a boys' and a girls' bike, so we took her money and bought one, and my wife and I bought the other one. After that, Piper decided she was going to collect cans and buy bikes. She had a goal last year of 10 bikes and she bought almost 140. She has a goal for 200 this year.” Though Piper couldn’t return cans for a few months due to COVID-19, the pandemic hasn’t slowed her down. Timber Ridge partnered with Piper in 2019, allowing community members and campers to leave cans in bins for her to collect. Throughout the shutdown, people continued to drop off cans at Timber Ridge—someone even made a special trip from Saginaw. “Gordon [Waggoner], the owner of Timber Ridge, gave her some spots to store cans there,” says George. “And we had them stored at our house in town and our house at the new property [the Shumars were in the process of moving when I interviewed Piper in late August]. Grandparents and friends were storing them for us. One of the spots was as big as a pavilion and it was filled front to back. And we have a semi-truck trailer, where we also store cans.” Since can returns resumed in June, Piper and her parents have been making daily trips to Meijer—sometimes even two or three trips a day. “Everyone calls her our little superstar,” George says. “We’re proud of her … It was her idea, we’re just here to support her.” COVID-19 has made it difficult to find kids bikes, however. “Meijer had two bikes the last time we were in,” George says. “Walmart has five or six at a time. As soon as they come in they’re gone because parents and kids are at home now.” If Piper can’t find enough bikes, she’s decided to use the remaining money to buy gift cards and presents for older children, ages 13 and up, to donate to Toys for Tots, because there typically aren’t as many presents available for teens, she says. “It makes me feel good and happy,” Piper says.

MyNorth.com

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bookstores | up north

Cozy Up with a Good Book Independent bookstores abound in Northern Michigan— treasured destinations in our small downtowns. Part of what makes each shop so special are the friendly, knowledgeable staffers who are always happy to make recommendations and handpick a great book for you or a friend. We asked the team at Between the Covers in Harbor Springs to share some cozy winter reads, and they gave us spectacular suggestions. BY CARLY SIMPSON | PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

COMING-OF-AGE + REMOTE UPPER PENINSULA B&B “BURN THE PLACE: A MEMOIR” BY ILIANA REGAN While Iliana Regan’s childhood provided the beginnings of her connection to earth and food, she traveled a long and hard road through addiction, intolerance and simply being a woman in the big-city, cut-throat restaurant business, before finding her slice of heaven in the U.P.

SUPPORT LOCAL BOOKSTORES

A WEEKEND GETAWAY + NO WAY TO GET AWAY “LEAVE THE WORLD BEHIND” BY RUMAAN ALAM Amanda and Clay treat themselves and their teenage children to a vacation rental in a remote part of Long Island. All is well until the evening when a couple arrives, claiming to own the home, and bringing news that a sudden blackout has swept New York City. But in this rural area—with the TV and internet now down, and no cell phone service—there’s no way to verify the news. Whom to believe in a world that seems to be growing increasingly less familiar ...

This holiday season, find awesome gifts at these local bookstores. BETWEEN THE COVERS 106 E. MAIN ST., HARBOR SPRINGS MCLEAN & EAKIN BOOKSELLERS 307 E. LAKE ST., PETOSKEY ROUND LAKE BOOKSTORE 216 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX

A MOTHER’S PAST + A DAUGHTER’S PRESENT “MEMORIAL DRIVE: A DAUGHTER’S MEMOIR” BY NATASHA TRETHEWEY If you’ve ever wondered what sort of family legacy might create a young woman destined to become one of America’s greatest poets, look no further than this searingly beautiful and elegiac memoir—part true crime, part meditation on grief, all human.

A MARRIAGE ON THE ROCKS + SURVIVAL AT SEA “SEA WIFE” BY AMITY GAIGE In a novel with all the tension of psychological suspense and the literary chops of a master storyteller, Amity Gaige brings readers the story of a couple who abandons suburbia for a year at sea with their children … and the consequences wrought from their choices.

SATURN BOOKSELLERS 127 W. MAIN ST. SUITE A., GAYLORD HORIZON BOOKS 243 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY 115 S. MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC BRILLIANT BOOKS 118 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY HIGHER SELF BOOKSTORE 313 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY COTTAGE BOOK SHOP 5989 S. LAKE ST., GLEN ARBOR

INA GARTEN + COCKTAILS “MODERN COMFORT FOOD: A BAREFOOT CONTESSA COOKBOOK” BY INA GARTEN

LEELANAU BOOKS 109 N. MAIN ST., LELAND

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THE BOOKSTORE 330 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT

MORE Find out more about the North’s independent booksellers at MyNorth.com/Bookstores.

THE ISLAND BOOKSTORE 7372 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND (CLOSED IN WINTER, BUT ORDER ONLINE YEAR-ROUND.) Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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Pasture to Plate Let’s talk turkey.

BY CARLY SIMPSON | PHOTO BY TODD ZAWISTOWSKI

local businesses | up north

A THRIVING REGION

Rick and Sue Duerksen have been raising turkeys in Mancelona since 1979, celebrating 40 years at Duerksen Turkey Farm in 2019. Duerksen turkeys are sold at Oryana’s Traverse City stores, Martin’s Market in Charlevoix, Grain Train in Petoskey and Willow Market & Meats in Cadillac. Or, for farm pickup, order online at duerksenturkeyfarm.com or send a Facebook message.

It’s impossible to celebrate our 40th anniversary at Traverse without also honoring the small businesses and nonprofit organizations that have supported our mission throughout the years and who make Northern Michigan such a special place to live and visit. Each month we’ll continue to share these important anniversaries in print, and you can find the full list at MyNorth.com/ BizAnniversaries. —A.J.

THE DUERKSEN’S PERFECT TURKEY

39 YEARS Kimberly Creamer, Five Star Real Estate

stick unsalted butter, softened

cup extra virgin olive oil

teaspoons fresh sage leaves, chopped

small clove garlic, minced

large onion, coarsely chopped

large carrots, coarsely chopped

cup fresh parsley, chopped

pepper. Rub butter mixture generously over the outside of the turkey and beneath the skin on the breast. Stuff the onion, carrot and parsley in the bird’s cavity, and place the turkey in a deep roasting pan. Place bouillon cubes in the bottom of the pan, add the water and roast the turkey for one hour at 400 degrees. After the first hour of roasting, reduce heat to 325 degrees and roast for approximately 3 to 4 hours, basting with pan drippings every 20 to 30 minutes, until a meat thermometer registers 160 degrees when inserted into the deepest part of the thigh. Remove cooked turkey from oven, transfer to large cutting board, tent with foil and let the bird rest for at least 20 minutes.

chicken bouillon cube

GRAVY: Combine the reserved pan

beef bouillon cube

cup water

FOR THE BIRD 20-pound fresh Duerksen Farm turkey

FOR THE GRAVY

Reserved pan drippings

2–3

cups water

cup all-purpose flour

teaspoon fresh sage, finely chopped

Salt and pepper to taste

DIRECTIONS BIRD: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Remove turkey from the package, rinse, pat dry and set aside. In a small mixing bowl, fold together the butter, olive oil, sage and garlic, and season to taste with salt and

drippings with water to reach 4 cups of liquid. Transfer to a medium saucepan and heat to a light simmer. Place turkey roasting pan over two burners on the stove at medium heat. Deglaze the pan by adding ½ cup of water, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon to scrape browned bits from the bottom and sides of pan. Add deglazed pan liquid to the saucepan with broth, reserving ¼ cup of mixture. In a medium saucepan, heat ¼ cup of broth mixture over medium heat and gradually whisk in ¼ cup of flour. Reduce heat to medium-low and whisk constantly until mixture becomes golden. Add the 4 cups of reserved broth to flour mixture, whisking constantly. Raise heat to medium, and cook for 5 to 7 minutes, stirring frequently until the gravy thickens. Season to taste with salt and pepper, transfer to gravy boat and garnish with chopped sage. Carve the turkey and serve on a warm platter.

38 YEARS Slo-Mo-Sean III Charter Fishing, Frankfort 37 YEARS Becky Thatcher Designs, Glen Arbor/Leland/Traverse City 35 YEARS Phillip C. Yancho, D.D.S., Traverse City 34 YEARS Cali’s, Traverse City 33 YEARS Joseph’s World Art & Antiques, Petoskey Burritt’s Fresh Markets, Traverse City 32 YEARS Traverse Bay Area Youth Soccer, Traverse City 31 YEARS RE/MAX, Elk Rapids Peninsula Window Coverings, Traverse City 30 YEARS Schooner Madeline, Traverse City Bakker’s Acres, Suttons Bay Portage Lake Association, Onekama Wilson Antiques, Traverse City Harbor Springs Area Historical Society Kathleen Wills Design, Traverse City Robert Ben Begley, Architect, Traverse City Armour Siding Co., Traverse City Mackinac Real Estate, Naubinway Prout Financial Design, Traverse City Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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TIX

Please note, as these dates approach, some events may be modified, postponed or canceled to protect the safety of both event organizers and attendees. Check online or call ahead to confirm details. Throughout the year, visit MyNorth.com/Events for current community happenings.

Watch for the MyNorthTix symbol and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

November TUE

THU

SUN

AN EVENING WITH BOB GILES The National Writers Series welcomes Traverse City author and veteran journalist Bob Giles to discuss his memoir, “When Truth Mattered.” His story takes readers inside the turmoil of the newsroom as bullets exploded at Kent State University, leaving four students dead and nine wounded. This is a free, virtual event. Register at nationalwritersseries.org. SHOP YOUR COMMUNITY DAYS IN TRAVERSE CITY For every purchase you make at participating stores from Nov. 12–14, 5 percent of the sale will be donated to the nonprofit organization of your choice. It’s a great way to get a jump on your holiday shopping. downtowntc.com HUNT DOWNTOWN GAYLORD Shop at local downtown businesses and save your receipts, all while hunting for "bucks" and enjoying refreshments. Tape your receipts together to hang on the "buck pole." Prizes will be awarded for longest receipt, most businesses supported and more. gaylordmichigan.net

TUE

“THE THANKSGIVING PLAY” Enjoy a Parallel 45 virtual staged reading followed by a National Writers Series interview with playwright Larissa FastHorse. This contemporary satire explores the national holiday and asks, “How does one celebrate Thanksgiving and Native American Heritage Month at the same time?” parallel45.org, MyNorthTickets.com

SAT

SUTTONS BAY SATURDAY FRIENDS & FAMILY Do your holiday shopping and give back to the community. Participating merchants will donate up to 10 percent of their sales to an area nonprofit selected by you. suttonsbayarea.com

FRI

LIGHT UP LELAND FOR THE HOLIDAYS The annual lighting of the tree followed by a parade, caroling and treats with Santa. lelandmi.com

FRI

CHARLEVOIX HOLIDAY PARADE & TREE LIGHTING Take advantage of Black Friday deals at downtown stores, get free photos with Santa and take part in the community tree lighting celebration, among other events. visitcharlevoix.com

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SAT

STAFFORD’S DOWNTOWN PETOSKEY HOLIDAY PARADE The floats are always spectacular, as are the performances by the Petoskey High School Marching Band. Meet Santa and his reindeer beforehand at Stafford’s Perry Hotel. petoskeydowntown.com

SAT

HOLLY BERRY ARTS & CRAFTS FAIR The annual tradition at Frankfort High School features more than 100 artists. Santa and Mrs. Claus arrive by horse-drawn carriage, and the Frankfort community tree lighting follows later in the evening at Rotary Park. frankfort-elberta.com

SAT

HARBOR SPRINGS TREE LIGHTING Celebrate the 105th anniversary of this magical tradition. harborspringschamber.com

F I N D M O RE A T M Y N O R T H .C O M > E V E N T S

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

ED ITED BY LI BBY STAL L MAN

MyNorth.com

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10/6/20 8:59 AM

november | events

let it snow!

GRAB YOUR SLEDS AND SKATES Bundle up and head outdoors.

These six sledding slopes range from gentle descents to hair-raising verticals. Wear a helmet, especially if you’re shredding the jumps, and hold tight!

DUNE CLIMB, GLEN ARBOR With wide open areas and no trees in the middle of your path, this is a great spot for sledding beginners, but it's also steep, and those who love to go fast can get some serious speed. (Note: The Dune Climb is the only place in Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore where you can sled.)

GRACE MACDONALD PARK, TRAVERSE CITY This park on Arbutus Road has a perfect hill for easy riders; it’s not too steep, but has enough trees at the bottom to make things exciting. There’s plenty of parking and playground equipment near the hill.

WINTER SPORTS PARK, PETOSKEY This hill works well for little ones (if you go halfway up) and is a good spot for beginner skiers and snowboarders, too. A warming house with a fireplace, restrooms and concessions make this a premium spot to spend a snowy day or night (the park is lit!).

MT. MCSAUBA, CHARLEVOIX Known as a year-round park revered by all, in winter McSauba hosts downhill ski runs, a lighted sledding hill, skating rink and trails for snowshoeing and crosscountry skiing. Parents who prefer to watch can chill with their Wi-Fi gadgets in the viewing lounge: It’s a bonus that it happens to look out over Lake Charlevoix.

KIWANIS PARK, HARBOR SPRINGS This hill boasts some of the best vertical runs, plus sled-shredding jumps along the edge of the woods and space for beginners, too. The park also has an outdoor ice-skating rink. Located just blocks from downtown at the end of Arbor Street.

AVALANCHE MOUNTAIN PRESERVE, BOYNE CITY The hill is plenty big enough to elicit screams on the way down, and the warming house will let you stay all day without fear of frostbite. Ice skating and trails for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing round out this winter fun destination.

TOTALLY TUBULAR: Pile into sledding tubes at Timberlee Hills and Mt. Holiday in Traverse City, Shanty Creek Resort in Bellaire, Treetops Resort in Gaylord, Boyne Mountain in Boyne Falls and Boyne Highlands in Harbor Springs. Find a list of indoor ice skating rinks on page 14.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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NOV ’20

10/6/20 8:59 AM

events | november

WHOOOOSH! Tighten your ice skates, breathe in the crisp air and glide across a frozen rink.

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1600 CHARTWELL DR., TRAVERSE CITY

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KALISEUM RECREATION COMPLEX 1900 FAIRGROUNDS RD., KALKASKA

LAKEVIEW ARENA 401 E FAIR AVE., MARQUETTE

PETOSKEY ICE ARENA 3450 M-119, HARBOR SPRINGS

COMINS, MICHIGAN

WEST SHORE COMMUNITY COLLEGE ICE ARENA 3000 N. STILES RD., SCOTTVILLE

1-800-818-9971 14

woodworkersshoppe.com

THE WEX ICE RINK 1320 N. MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC

MyNorth.com

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10/6/20 8:59 AM

what to do | travel

A THANKSGIVING GETAWAY (AND DINNER, TOO!)

BAY HARBOR

BY CARLY SIMPSON | PHOTO BY RACHEL HAGGERTY

This year, linger over conversations, not the dishes, when you let the pros at these Northern Michigan restaurants take care of Thanksgiving dinner. These four eateries are located onsite at some of the area’s coziest hotels, making it easy to celebrate the holiday during a long weekend getaway. Several are also offering dinner to-go for locals or non-hotel guests who want to enjoy the meal from the comfort of their home.

INN AT BAY HARBOR | BAY HARBOR This year’s Thanksgiving buffet will be safely served by staff, observing COVID-19 safety guidelines, from noon to 5 p.m. Guests will dine in the upscale Vintage Chophouse | Wine Bar or The Sagamore Room, which overlooks Little Traverse Bay. Butternut squash bisque, Applewood smoked ham, Great Lakes walleye with sweet corn succotash and cheddar-baked macaroni are just a few of the many options. Buffet pricing: $44 for adults; $18 for ages six to 12; free for ages five and under. For reservations, call 231.439.4117. For those dining at home, a full dinner to-go will also be available: Visit the inn’s website for the menu and pricing. For those seeking a holiday getaway, lodging is available at the inn, and includes breakfast for two. The resort also offers two- and three-bedroom cottages with full kitchens, a fireplace and living and dining areas. Travel + Leisure and Condé Nast Traveler have both taken note of the Inn at Bay Harbor over the past few years, naming it among the “500 World’s Best Hotels” and “Top 100 U.S. Mainland Resorts,” respectively. INNATBAYHARBOR.COM

THE LAKEVIEW AT SHANTY CREEK RESORT | BELLAIRE The plated Thanksgiving dinner begins at 5 p.m. at the resort’s Lakeview restaurant; reservations highly recommended. Other offerings include turkeys-to-go (order a whole turkey or ham and all the fixings—green bean casserole, candied yams, two pies and more—by November 24) and a gingerbread house workshop (must reserve by November 19). “This has been a sold-out event for as long as I can remember,” says Chris Hale, vice president of sales and marketing, about the workshop. The resort provides a gingerbread house, icing and a variety of candies for decorating. Traditionally held in a banquet room, this year the workshop is being offered to-go due to COVID19. To make a reservation or place a to-go order for dinner or a gingerbread house, call 231.533.3070. For those staying the weekend, Shanty Creek offers hotel rooms, king suites, parlors, condos and even homes for rent. Guests can take advantage of the indoor pool, discounted ski lift tickets and resort-wide

transportation services (which come in handy at the 5,000acre property). SHANTYCREEK.COM

EVERETT'S AT BOYNE MOUNTAIN | BOYNE FALLS A staff-served, socially-distanced Thanksgiving buffet will be available from noon to 5 p.m. at the resort’s Civic Center. Pricing was still being finalized at the time of publication, but the menu is ready! Here are a few of the many options: smoked whitefish, forest mushroom sherry bisque, carved turkey, honey mustard glazed ham and andouille and sage cornbread stuffing. Boyne Mountain has plenty of room options, but in November, the three- and four-bedroom Mountain Cabins are especially cozy. Each cabin has a full kitchen, dining room, wood-burning fireplace and a hot tub on the deck. Plus, they’re nestled in the woods for that off-the-beaten-path vibe. For more information or reservations, call 231.549.6067. BOYNEMOUNTAIN.COM

AERIE RESTAURANT & LOUNGE AT GRAND TRAVERSE RESORT AND SPA | TRAVERSE CITY Aerie, perched on the 16th floor of the resort’s tower with panoramic views of Grand Traverse Bay, is serving a plated, à la carte lunch and dinner on Thanksgiving Day. The menu wasn’t available at the time of publication, but the resort’s public relations manager, Caroline Rizzo, says it will feature the classics along with some fun nontraditional dishes mixed in. Reservations recommended: Call 231.534.6800 or visit the resort’s website and book a table online through OpenTable. Guests staying the night at the resort will have easy access to the recently opened Den, located within the grand lobby near the front desk. The 3,000-square-foot entertainment hub has axe throwing, boutique mini bowling, arcade games, an escape room and virtual reality experiences. GRANDTRAVERSERESORT.COM

Carly Simpson is the Digital & Content Editor at Traverse and editor of the wildly popular Daily Splash newsletter. Sign up free at MyNorth.com/Newsletters

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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NOV ’20

10/6/20 9:04 AM

up in michigan | essay

Coming Home BY EMILY HOPCIAN

“Whatever happens, I just want to be back home looking out at Crystal Lake one more time,” my dad says to our family, as we sit outside my parents’ home in Florida. Glasses of water, a box of Kleenex and some balled up tissues lie scattered on the small table between us. Though the day is sunny, hot and humid, a haze hangs over all of us. Not even an hour earlier, a doctor from Sarasota Memorial Hospital called to share tough news with my dad, with all of us: My dad has cancer. Specifically, he has B-cell acute lymphoblastic leukemia. Without further testing, the doctor wasn’t in a position to provide a complete diagnosis or prognosis—though we later learn that, without treatment, my dad would likely have four to six weeks to live. The doctor who called was kind, calm and human as she laid out a suggested plan of action. She stressed the importance of starting treatment as soon as possible. She didn’t sugarcoat anything. She told us the road ahead would be challenging. She said my dad would want to receive treatment wherever he and my mom had family and friends to support them, and without hesitation, we knew it would be in Michigan. While my parents now split each year between Michigan and Florida, Michigan is home. And even though my dad and mom grew up in the Detroit area—as did my sister and I—Northern Michigan has been, is and always will be, home. My maternal grandmother grew up in Frankfort, and starting with my great-great grandparents, my family has more than 100 years of history on Crystal Lake. It is our home. So this morning, between tears, hugs and phone calls to loved ones, our family makes it our collective goal to learn more about Dad’s cancer, prognosis and treatment plan; get him through his induction phase of chemotherapy and whatever might follow; and then, more than anything, get him back Up North, resting and recovering—should we all be so fortunate—in my parents’ home on Crystal Lake. In late January, after some hiccups, my dad begins induction phase chemotherapy at the University of Michigan Hospital in Ann Arbor. His first round of chemo lasts roughly four weeks. The photos that adorn his hospital room walls are a strong reminder of the place Northern Michigan holds in his, and our family’s, heart. There are photos of us searching for Petoskey stones during walks along Lake Michigan. Endless summer days spent on Crystal Lake—water skiing, tubing, wakeboarding, fishing or just cruising around the lake in the evening with the radio

GORDON HOPCIAN, EMILY HOPCIAN, KATHRYN HOPCIAN AND CAROL MCKEE

on low and drinks in tow. Hikes through the woods at Old Indian Trail and along Lower Beach Road with our dogs. Golf at Crystal Downs. Bonfires with family and friends at home, overlooking Crystal Lake. Home-cooked breakfasts and dinners at my parents’ home, both inside and out. Potluck picnics with our extended family. In the colder months, hours beside the fireplace, playing euchre and board games. Ringing in a new year at Stormcloud Brewing Company. Bundled up outside my grandparents’ house on Crystal Lake, where the sand is blanketed with snow. In January and February, Dad moves through his induction phase of chemo in good spirits. Though he’s discharged for a few weeks, he must stay within a 100-mile radius of the hospital, so while on his mind, Crystal Lake is still out of reach for the time being. His second phase of chemo starts in March, and his medical team continues to scope out potential matches for a bone marrow transplant. They successfully connect with a strong match for my dad in Germany, and on April 25, with some fear and a lot of faith, my dad receives a bone marrow transplant. The months that follow are arguably the most challenging for him, and all of us, as his body and the new bone marrow decide if they will thrive together or not. Fear, anxiety and insomnia overtake my dad. I’ve never seen him like this before. Ever. At times, there is a deep fear in his eyes. For me, it is like looking at a different person. In those moments, I don’t see my dad. He is a different man. Haunted by visions and afraid of the dark nights at the hospital, he sees hands coming out of the walls and sometimes feels as though he is dying. It breaks my heart. He is over all of this, but he won’t give up. There are moments and days when I know he wants to, but he’s a fighter with a positive attitude. Our family longs for the days we can all—all four of us—be home in Frankfort again and pray that those days will come sooner rather than later. 4

MyNorth.com

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10/6/20 9:04 AM

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FUSTINIS.COM 1120_TVM_travel/uim.indd 17

10/6/20 9:04 AM

up in michigan | essay

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Dad sets goals with his medical team and works diligently, even when he doesn’t feel like it, to leave the hospital. Once out of the hospital, he sets goals with his team and physical therapist to achieve his dream of returning to Crystal Lake, if only for a few days to start. By the grace of God, and with the support of his incredible medical team and community of family and friends, my dad, and our family, make it through the darkest days. In early July, Dad gets the permission he’s worked so hard to receive: He can return home to Crystal Lake for a weekend. The moment is undoubtedly one worth celebrating, a milestone for Dad and all of us. Days before his 67th birthday, my dad and mom drive from Ann Arbor to Frankfort. They enjoy a few glorious days at home with my sister and some extended family before returning to Ann Arbor. Nearly two months later, Dad is granted permission to return home more permanently with routine follow-up tests and appointments at the hospital. Come November, Dad’s counts and energy are inconsistent and abnormally low for a few weeks. His medical team schedules a bone marrow biopsy the Friday before Thanksgiving. The following Wednesday, he has a follow-up appointment at the hospital. Shortly after noon, my mom texts our family, “Good news. Bone marrow results are good. Blood work is good.” It’s the news we’ve been praying and asking God for, and it comes the day before Thanksgiving—bringing tears to my eyes and filling my heart with gratitude. While my dad will never be completely out of the woods with his cancer, we will always celebrate and be grateful for moments like this. Northern Michigan played a mighty big role in motivating my dad. I also believe it played a mighty big role in his continued rest and recovery. There’s just something about the water, forests, beaches and wide-open spaces up here that calls all of us home.

Emily Hopcian writes from Bariloche, Argentina. emilyhopcian.com

MyNorth.com

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10/9/20 10:39 AM

hiking | outdoors

FALL IS FOR HIKING ... SAFELY TEXT BY COURTNEY JEROME | PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

In Northern Michigan, we love getting outdoors in every season, but come fall, it’s important to be aware of hunters. Archery season runs October 1–November 14 and December 1–January 1, and regular firearm season is November 15–30. If you’re hiking on lands that are open to hunting, always wear bright colors. If you don’t want to worry about whether or not it’s safe to stroll, know that these conservancy-protected natural areas in Leelanau, Emmet, Charlevoix and Grand Traverse counties are closed to hunting.

THORNE SWIFT NATURE PRESERVE | HARBOR SPRINGS A dune observation platform and Lake Michigan shoreline are just two of many highlights you’ll find along the 1.5 miles of trails at Thorne Swift. Adjacent to the Elizabeth Kennedy Nature Center is a large parking lot where you’ll start your journey. Note: Thorne Swift is open daily 10 a.m. to sunset from April 15–November 15. The Nature Center is typically open Memorial Day–Labor Day, though COVID-19 forced the center to remain closed this year. Parking fee is $5 for nontownship residents. LANDTRUST.ORG

CHIPPEWA RUN NATURAL AREA | EMPIRE Deer and turkey stroll through the apple orchard, and turtles, brook trout and diverse bird species are abundant at this 112-acre property. The natural area’s 1.5-mile trail system and parking area are located less than a mile north of the intersection of M-72 and M-22 in downtown Empire. LEELANAUCONSERVANCY.ORG

PELIZZARI NATURAL AREA | TRAVERSE CITY More than three miles of trails through fields, forests and orchards make for a great hiking spot on Old Mission Peninsula. Visitors are likely to encounter several bird species and may even catch a glimpse of the resident fox. The trailhead and parking lot are located on M-37. GTRLC.ORG

BUBBLING SPRINGS NATURE PRESERVE | PETOSKEY Only a few miles from downtown Petoskey, a short trail leads to these beautiful natural springs. You’ll walk through a mix of mature upland hardwood forest and along a small stream before arriving at the viewing platform. Access the parking area from Intertown Road. LANDTRUST.ORG

ROGERS FAMILY HOMESTEAD PRESERVE | EAST JORDAN Three neighboring nature preserves, known as the Rogers Family/ Dressel/Jordan River Preserve Complex, offer 201 combined acres and more than two miles of frontage on the Jordan River. Two parking areas are available—one on Rogers Road and the other near the corner of Erie and Echo streets—along with an easy 1.5-mile trail system at the Rogers Family Homestead Preserve. LANDTRUST.ORG

WHALEBACK NATURAL AREA | LELAND If you’re in search of a hike with a stunning Lake Michigan overlook, this is the spot for you. Walk along the bluffs in Leland and see pockets of lingering fall colors in the hardwood forest before arriving at the viewing platform. This 40-acre site, tucked just off M-22, is so pretty it’s known to bring people back for more. LEELANAUCONSERVANCY.ORG

Courtney Jerome, her husband, Josh, and their two young boys love playing outdoors in Leelanau County in all four seasons. An award-winning TV producer at WCMU, Courtney has also started her own media company. courtneyjeromemedia.com

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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NOV ’20

10/6/20 9:08 AM

FROM

ICEMAN TO MUDMAN (WITH MY NEMESIS)

In 2019, the 30th annual Bell’s Iceman Cometh Challenge—a 30-mile point-to-point mountain bike race from Kalkaska to Traverse City—was buried in a half-foot of snow and thick mud. The result was an unforgettable ride for cyclist Kandace Chapple and her nemesis, Jake Kaberle. TEXT BY KANDACE CHAPPLE // PHOTOS BY BETH PRICE

MyNorth.com

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Traverse, Northern Michiganâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Magazine | NOV '20

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10/6/20 9:10 AM

I met Jake way back when bike racing was for other people. We had kids in the same school, shared a couple of the same friends and had a mutual love for mountain bikes. Eventually, we would also have a mutual love for harassing each other openly and maliciously. Jake and I were polite to each other at first, kind even (which I now find hard to believe), often ending up on group rides together. When someone suggested we sign up for Iceman, everyone in our group did. It was 2009, my first real race, and I had zero expectations on my finish. I just thought if I could ride the 30 miles from Kalkaska to Traverse City and live, I would be a living legend in my own mind. Turns out, there was more to it than that. I was over three hours into the race, just a few miles from the finish line, when I saw one Jake Kaberle come into view on the dirt trail ahead of me. I was happy to see someone I knew out of the hundreds of riders I’d seen all day. “Hey,” I thought, “I’ll just pass him, and say hello!” Wrong. Passing him “on the left!” was the start to a long and worrisome battle, because with that one pass, the race was on. Jake and I proceeded to pass each other back and forth several times, till death do us part, until the final stretch when Jake about blew a lung getting it done. He beat me by 17 seconds. And a nemesis was born. THE RACE HISTORY The Iceman course consists of a patchwork of trails that you’d be hard-pressed to find on your own. My nemesis and I have at least one pre-ride every year on the Iceman route that ends in a jolly “Where the hell are we?” discussion, causing our fondness for hating each other to grow deeper. The course is a pieced-together masterpiece of dirt roads, twotracks, abandoned railroad beds and the world-famous Vasa Trail. The race route crosses just one paved road (Williamsburg Road at mile 17) as it winds through the Pere Marquette State Forest. The race has been a tradition since 1990. Held on the first Saturday of November, it now attracts some 5,000 riders from around the country and the world, from pros to beginners. The winner takes home a (melting!) ice trophy. The rest of us grab a beer. The Iceman is the largest single-day, point-to-point mountain bike race in the United States and is now televised on CBS Sports. You’ll see everything on the trail, from finely tuned biking creatures to playful riders in tutus and helmets made to look like shark fins. There are hills, lots of hills. And tears, sometimes lots of tears. Riders take anywhere from two to six hours to finish. To finish is a feat. Cody Sovis, the new race director for Iceman, made the 30th edition of the race special—most notably by adding two more miles to the traditional 28-mile race—making it an even 30 miles. The extra mileage came with groans, more hills and a little more strategy. Those looking to attack and make a move suddenly had a little more time to do so, with new stretches of trail now playing out near the end. “Three decades was a really important milestone for the race,

and we wanted to honor that in every aspect of the event, especially in the woods,” Cody says. “The course mixed in some of the classic, original sections of trails like Tornado Alley and Anita Hill with new sections, including Water Bottle Hill Bypass. Part of what keeps this race fresh is that there’s always a twist, and that will definitely be a part of the future of Iceman, too.” THE NIGHT BEFORE Jake and I have raced against each other in nearly every Iceman over the last decade. As we headed into the 2019 race, we’d each “won” four races. Because we were at a tie, training took on a certain heat, on par with the Olympics even. But I wasn’t worried about losing. I had logged a million miles for this moment. In fact, I was so sure I’d win, that I bought myself a mug to use at the afterparty. It was inscribed with: “The QUEEN of Everything.” I snickered as I tucked it into my post-race clothing bag. Tomorrow was race day. However, as we all slept, the Iceman turned into Mudman ... Four inches of snow fell overnight, compounded by several days of rain in the days leading up to the race. At about midnight on Friday, Cody was on the phone with Tom White, of Northern Michigan Mountain Bike Association, debating what to do. There was no doubt: The trail would be a mess. “The unpredictable weather is a part of the event, and in 2019, it took center stage,” Cody says. “After a lot of discussion, we decided to stick with the course with no detours.” Before dawn, Cody was up and checking the course on race day, Saturday, Nov. 2, 2019. “I walked a part of the course at 4:30 a.m.,” he says. “I took a step out onto what looked like 3-4 inches of fresh, soft snow … but my foot sunk in about 6 inches, with deep black mud underneath it. That was when I knew it was going to be an unforgettable edition of Iceman.” THE STARTING LINE That morning, when I arrived at the start venue—tiny, quaint, in-the-middle-of-a-field Kalkaska Airport—word was spreading: Hundreds of racers were bailing. The mud was thick and deep and bikes were suffering in the extreme conditions (when derailleurs and chains are coated in mud, shifting becomes impossible). To go ahead and race would be for the hardiest. I wasn’t sure I qualified. But when I saw Jake decked out and ready to ride, I knew there was no turning back. Like every year, we posed for a photo together, hugged, wished the worst for each other and lined up. The Iceman is so huge that racers are sent out in waves of 100 riders. I was one wave ahead of Jake (due to having a slightly better record than him overall, I would like to add, ahem). With that said, I knew if I saw him, I would have already lost by three minutes. 46 MINUTES IN My wave started at 9 a.m. I took off and found the mud at the first single track cut into the woods. As my wave of riders came upon the riders stuck in the mud ahead of us, I could see bikes and Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | NOV '20

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MyNorth.com

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KANDACE CHAPPLE AND HER NEMESIS, JAKE KABERLE

10/6/20 9:10 AM

riders down everywhere. The trail was thick and slow, and I was barely able to keep my bike upright. Reality arrived fast and furious: This was going to be the hardest ride of my life. I considered bailing then, but with the pressure of my nemesis at my back, I carried on. And when I heard faster riders coming up on me, I moved aside to let them pass. My focus then (and the entire time) was not crashing. “Go,” I called to a biker I heard coming up behind me, moving aside on a two track, just before we were funneled into the single track mud hell again. The guy replied: “Wow, that was my best Iceman start ever!” I went into polite chitchat mode, even in my agony: “Oh, have you raced this before?” But I didn’t wait for an answer because in the next moment, I screeched. It was Jake. He had caught me in just 46 minutes. I knew it was over, the race decided. The only thing now was to finish or hope he quit before I did. By the grin on his face, I knew that wasn’t happening. I love riding. But he loves weather. He will ride in anything. And his moment to shine had arrived.

THE CRISIS POINT I made it to the top, and there stood my husband, Tim, and my son, Kendall, waiting. They looked worried. I was far, far behind my expected arrival time. “What happened?” they shouted. “I’m done,” I shouted back. It was true for a lot of people on that hill. Other cyclists spilled around me: bikes broken, chains coated in mud and wills beaten down. They were asking for rides back to civilization. I wanted to go with them. I rode over to Tim. “I’m serious,” I said. “Give me a ride.” I had never felt like this in a race. It was bad. I had no energy left and I was only 10 miles in, with 20 more miles to go. Tim shuttled me back on my bike, and I swung my leg over the bar, limp and dejected. “You got this!” he said, kissing my muddy face and giving me his own shove down the trail. I was certain I didn’t have it at all. But I figured Jake felt awful, too, and it perked me up. Maybe he would quit. Like any good friend, I started hoping for the worst.

THE WAIT I kept him in sight for a while—and then, there was a standstill in the race. The mud was so deep that it became un-rideable and with snow and trees narrowing the trail on either side, there was nowhere to bypass the mud. There were 1,900 riders ahead of me on the trail at this point, and we all came to a halt. Another couple thousand piled up behind us. As far as I could see ahead and behind, there was a line of cyclists standing and waiting their turn to go down the trail. I’d never seen anything like it in all my Iceman years. That standstill in the woods was the most fun I had the entire race. People took off their helmets and gloves, got out phones, turned on music, took videos, shared snacks and met their neighbors. For 20 minutes, we literally stood in a line in the woods. I knew Jake was getting farther ahead of me in the mass of muddy cyclists, because he waved at me from his vantage position and snapped a picture of my defeat.

HOUR THREE By the third hour, I was in an abusive relationship with my bike. I spoke to no one. I had no will to live. I had no way to die. I was biking slower than I could walk. I was walking when it was too deep to ride. I was wondering when the suffering would end. We all were. Later, on the biking app Strava, I saw that one section that would normally take me 5 minutes, would likely take 25 minutes. There were many sections like that. At Williamsburg Road, 450 riders pulled out of the race, and hundreds called it quits in other spots. The race was no longer a timed event—it was a “can-youfinish?” ride.

MAKE IT STICK Once we started moving again, the next obstacle was a famous hill along the route—Make It Stick. Halfway up, there was a longhaired, bushy-tailed guy playing a full drum set, and, at the top of the hill, a group stood with shots of Fireball for the racers. Spectators hooted, hollered and urged on the racers at this well-known celebration zone along the otherwise remote course. As I tackled the climb, I hit a mud hole. I literally pedaled in place, my rear tire spinning, spitting mud. I didn’t want to get off and walk (there were people watching, after all). Instead, I continued to pedal for all to see, going nowhere. Suddenly, I heard someone shout, “Get her!” Two guys ran up on either side of me. I didn’t know what was going to happen … but they pulled my bike up, out of the hole, kept me upright, and shoved me up the hill. I was saved! My muddy soul was renewed, for a few pedal strokes, by their kind hearts (and affection for Fireball).

THE FINISH It was in the last two miles that I finally committed to that damn race. An intensity came over me as I realized: I had done it! I was going to finish! Nearly four hours after starting, I got to the finish line, an hour later than expected. And there he stood: My nemesis. Waiting, with a full 14 minutes of rest under his belt. But when we saw each other, it was with joy, like two survivors rising from the mud. We hugged, we drank, we (I) cried, we (he) celebrated. It had been the hardest race we’d ever done together. In the post-race celebration area, I bought him a Two Hearted Ale from the Bell’s Brewery tent, and, as tradition goes, presented it to him on bended knee, bowing to his greatness. I also gave him the “Queen” mug, which he will never let me live down. The Iceman of 2019 determined one thing for my nemesis and me: The thought that one of us might quit is precisely what kept us both going. The 31st annual Bell’s Iceman Cometh Challenge is scheduled for Nov. 6, 2021. You can learn more at iceman.com. Kandace Chapple is a freelance writer and mountain bike enthusiast (and occasional Iceman loser) who lives in Interlochen with her husband and two sons. // Beth Price takes photographs that reflect her passion for a healthy, active and adventurous lifestyle. She is based in Traverse City. bethpricephotography.com

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | NOV '20

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Under the Spreading Chestnut Tree INSPIRED BY NATURE AND FOOD, A CROSS VILLAGE ARTIST SHARES HER HEART AND ART—AND ROASTED CHESTNUTS—IN A TINY COMMUNITY AT THE TIP OF NORTHERN MICHIGAN.

TEXT BY JEANNE AMBROSE PHOTOS BY JESSE GREEN

MyNorth.com

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Traverse, Northern Michiganâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Magazine | NOV '20

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HAND-CARVED, WOODBLOCK-STAMPED LINENS

CHESTNUTS ROASTING 28

MyNorth.com

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—JOANN CONDINO

It’s hard to believe I could get lost in the bitsy hamlet of Cross Village at the northernmost end of Michigan’s iconic Tunnel of Trees. But when I got to the notorious Legs Inn, I knew I had to pull over and consult my cantankerous GPS. Yes. I missed my turn and bypassed my destination: Three Pines Studio and Gallery. It’s the place with the giant sign that shouts “THREE PINES STUDIO” in front of the gorgeous cedar-shake building with the massive wraparound front porch perfect for roasting chestnuts on a blustery day. If you’re in the vicinity of Three Pines Studio in November and December, you simply can’t ignore the allure of aromatic chestnuts roasting over that open fire. Once inside and ready to wander the studio and artisanal showcase, you’ll most likely be greeted nonchalantly by Carina, the springer spaniel who sniffs you with feigned interest before giving you the brushoff and heading for the great outdoors. Don’t worry. Her best friend, Joann Condino, more than makes up for Carina’s aloofness. Joann, first generation Italian-American, founded Three Pines Studio in 2000 with her late husband, Gene Reck. And she has a heart as big as her personality. You’ll know Joann when you see her. Her flowing, long white-gray hair is thick and curly and wild in a fabulous way that reminds me of luxuriously soft clouds of sheep’s wool—only fluffier and longer. (How’s that for a crazy mixed metaphor?) In fact, Joann has lived a mixed metaphor—and mixed media— kind of life, heavily influenced by her roots in Detroit where her parents ran an Italian bar/restaurant. That’s where it all started: her story-telling abilities, her love of food, her compassion for community and the arts and her peppery-blunt vocabulary. Spend some time at Three Pines, and you’ll quickly notice that Joann is always on the move, answering customer questions, showing off Christmas stockings made from leftover scraps of hand-stamped linen and popping into her workspace where she has a collection of more than 450 woodblocks stored in cabinets. “I fell in love with my first block when I was 15 at Pier 1 in Detroit,” Joann says. “The store imported indigenous work and had barrels filled with woodblocks from India. I picked one up and could see the artist’s mark chiseled into it. It was $6. That started my addiction.” Joann uses those hand-carved woodblocks to stamp linens for napkins, table runners, towels, bread bags and aprons. Most of her block collection is inspired by nature and food, including the American chestnut, featured on many of her linens. She acquired her chestnut woodblocks from Italian woodcarver Filippo Romagnoli, whom she discovered through a mutual friend. The carver, who lives outside of Florence, Italy, is known for the engraved stamps he carves to emboss fresh pasta. Naturally when Joann learned of Filippo, they connected and

began collaborating on woodblocks for Joann to use in her work. “I asked him if he ever carved blocks for fabric,” Joann says. “I wanted an olive leaf, so he carved it for me.” And then she sent him a sketch of American chestnut leaves and soon he carved those for her, too. “Before I met him, I always used Indian and Pakistani woodblocks.” Her storytelling is interrupted by an urgent phone call. The call is indicative of Joann’s determination to give back to the community—and to solving immediate problems. She is coordinating a hasty fundraiser to help someone in the community who is about to be evicted because rent money became impossible when medical bills took priority. Within 24 hours, Joann had collected the $1,800 needed to prevent the eviction. Joann and Gene immersed themselves in Cross Village when they moved here in 1998. Gene served 12 years as township supervisor and 18 years as a first responder for Cross Village. Joann remembers the time Gene built a fence behind the studio to babysit three buffalo when the owner had to travel out of state. Before the couple moved north, Gene and Joann worked at Wayne State University: Gene was a chemistry professor and Joann was marketing director. They were smitten with the northern tip of the lower peninsula after vacationing at Wilderness State Park, about 30 minutes north of Cross Village. When they moved to Cross Village, they weren’t quite sure how they would fit into the community of about 200 residents. Joann’s passion for the arts led the way. Although her day job was in marketing, art had always been a big part of her life. “When I told my parents I wanted to study art, they said: ‘You can’t eat art,’ ” Joann recalls. So she took the practical route, while keeping her artistic passion alive on the side. “My mother actually started my addiction to the arts,” Joann says. “She introduced me to colored waters when I was young. She made them from vegetables. Magenta colors came from her beets. Yellow came from onion skin. Green from cooking greens.” She used the colored waters to paint on pinewood left from boxes of grapes shipped to her parent’s restaurant. “Painting on that raw wood taught me how to handle color because of how the raw wood soaks up the paint. Painting on silk with dyes acts the same way,” Joann says. Eventually, she began experimenting with the woodblocks she collected, using colors she creates and mixes in her studio to stamp patterns on linen. She hired a local woman to hem linen for tea towels. When COVID-19 began, Joann and her team created masks from her linens. And, instead of offering classes at the studio, she came up with a safe solution for creating art she calls “workshops in a box” for kids and adults. Her holiday kits include: a magical Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | NOV '20

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winter fairy house with an original fairy or gnome by Kim Cerrudo, holiday bracelets and locally spun and dyed yarn projects. Joann applies brilliant colors of dye by hand to yarn, which is spun in East Jordan. The wool for the yarn originates at farms near Harbor Springs, shorn from rare, longwool sheep. Joann’s colors, like many of her artistic creations, are inspired by nature, including her summer flower gardens, the vivid blues of Lake Michigan and the skies above. Her colors include “sunflower,” “poppy,” “lake,” “turbulence” and “autumn reflections.” Although both Gene and Joann retired when they moved Up North, they immediately found a little studio in Cross Village where they could putter in peace. Gene pursued his own artistic vision and made the leap from chemist to self-taught ceramic artist. Later, the two built Three Pines Studio and Gallery as a showcase for their work as well as that of other area artists, all of whom live north of the 45th parallel. There are no exceptions to the 45th parallel rule. “I’m a real bitch about that,” Joann says. “I have a standard. Local people should be supported.” Joann’s artistry extends to the kitchen, too. Oh, how she cooks! As her studio grew, Joann called upon her marketing background and her love of food to host an open house featuring specialties from her Italian heritage and her love of chestnuts. “Growing up in an ethnic home—in your mother’s kitchen— you have to watch. By 16 you’re expected to cook, and for me, miraculously, it worked,” Joann says. “I observed and now I have her recipes. I learned by smell and how it looks and its perfume. “I always wanted to roast chestnuts, and it wasn’t because of the Nat King Cole song,” she says. “I am first generation ItalianAmerican. Chestnuts are part of our food tradition. The smell of them roasting brings back memories of my family. Chestnuts were always winter treats. When I was an undergrad at Wayne State University, there were Greek men with carts on a corner roasting chestnuts. They put those hot little nuggets in a paper cone and we all walked around campus chomping on them. To me it was perfume and sweetness.” That’s why she and Gene planted four chestnut trees in front of their studio. And that’s why, when Jack Frost comes nipping at your nose about this time of year, you’ll find Joann outside roasting chestnuts to share along with a buffet of Italian treats. It’s a tradition from the heart that she started 19 years ago in the little village at the tippy-top of the mitten. Prior to publication, we were sorry to learn of the death of Gene Reck on Sept. 22. He was much loved in the community and will be dearly missed. Jeanne Ambrose is an editor, writer and former Michigander who travels Up North as often as she can. // Photographer Jesse Green shoots commercial, wedding and lifestyle photography from Detroit and Leelanau County. jessedavidgreen.com

—JOANN CONDINO

Growing up in an ethnic home — in your mother’s kitchen — you have to watch. I learned by smell, its perfume, and how it looks.

CARINA ASSISTING WITH THE PHOTOSHOOT

JOANN WITH HER LATE HUSBAND, GENE

CELEBRATE THE SEASON IN CROSS VILLAGE Three Pines Studio helps Cross Village kick off the Christmas season every year on the day after Thanksgiving by hosting an open house from 11 a.m.—7 p.m. and a tree lighting at 5:30 p.m. In addition to freshly roasted chestnuts at the studio, there will be traditional Italian holiday antipasti, cookies and other desserts throughout the day. Santa will be there, too, reading “’Twas the Night Before Christmas” at 4 p.m. Other holiday events are taking place throughout the village that day, too, including Clydesdale wagon rides around the village from 1:30–4 p.m. and cookie decorating with Santa’s elves at Cross Village General Store from 3–5 p.m. For more details about the wintery celebration, go to threepinesstudio.com or facebook.com/threepinesstudio. Three Pines Studio is located at 5959 W. Levering Rd.

If you are attending the holiday event, please wear masks and be sure to maintain social distancing etiquette.

CHESTNUT ROASTING 101 The key to roasting chestnuts, according to Joann, is to cut a slit in the nuts to let steam escape. “Otherwise they can explode,” she says. After washing the chestnuts, place them flat side down and use a paring knife to carefully cut an “x” in each shell. Toss them in a pan over an open fire or put them in a single layer on a foil-lined baking sheet. Roast about 15 to 20 minutes over the fire or in a 400°F oven, until the shells curl. Peel as soon as the chestnuts are cool enough to handle. The more they cool, the more difficult they are to peel.

MyNorth.com

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GLAZED RED PEPPER/FENNEL ALMONDS

FIGS STUFFED WITH ALMOND AND GINGER

PIZZELLE ON HAND-CARVED, WOODBLOCK-STAMPED LINENS

FIGS STUFFED WITH ALMOND AND GINGER Plan to make these in advance so the flavors have time to meld. 1 pound large, soft dried figs (about 20) 20 whole blanched almonds, toasted 10 pieces crystallized ginger 10 bay leaves

a medium bowl. Stir in almonds and water. Spread mixture on prepared baking sheet in single layer. Bake about 22 minutes, or until sugar melts and almonds are deep golden brown and glazed, stirring often. Separate almonds with fork; cool completely. Makes 1 cup, about 6 appetizer servings.

Preheat oven to 350°F. With scissors, cut the stem off each fig. With a knife, make a deep slit in each fig where the stem was and stuff with a whole almond. Cut each piece of ginger into two strips. Stuff one strip into each fig and pinch edges together. Place figs in a single layer on a foil-lined baking sheet. Bake for 10-15 minutes until figs are hot and shiny, turning once. Transfer figs to a rack; cool completely. In a 1-quart glass jar, or other container that can be tightly sealed, layer the figs with bay leaves. Store in a cool place for at least one week, but no more than three weeks. Makes 20 figs.

PIZZELLE When Joann makes these for a special occasion, she uses scissors to trim away any rough edges from the cooked pizzelles. And for non-anise lovers, she often uses Fiori di Sicilia, a combination of lemon and vanilla, from King Arthur Flour.

GLAZED RED PEPPER/FENNEL ALMONDS For her holiday party, Joann usually triples this recipe. The almonds may be made up to one week in advance. Cool and store immediately in a plastic bag or sealed container. Humidity may make the almonds sticky. 3 tablespoons sugar 2 teaspoons fennel seeds 1 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup whole almonds 1 tablespoon water Preheat oven 325°F. Line a heavy baking sheet with foil; spray with nonstick spray. Combine sugar, fennel seeds, crushed red pepper and salt in

6 large eggs 1 K cups sugar K teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons vanilla 1 teaspoon anise extract (or extract of your choice, such as Fiori di Sicilia or lemon extract) 3 K cups all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon baking powder 1 cup unsalted butter, melted 4 teaspoons anise seeds (eliminate if not using anise extract) In a large bowl, stir together eggs, sugar, salt, vanilla and choice of extract until combined. Whisk together flour and baking powder, then add to bowl, mixing until smooth. Add melted butter, stirring until well combined. Batter will be pillowy thick and smooth. Follow manufacturer’s directions to preheat and grease pizzelle iron, and cook pizzelles until golden brown. (It usually takes 45 seconds to 2 minutes.) Use a fork to remove the pizzelle from the iron; cool on a rack. Makes 6-9 dozen pizzelles, depending on the size of your pizzelle iron.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | NOV '20

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TODD ZAWISTOWSKI

MyNorth.com

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COURTNEY KENT

WE’VE SHARED HUNDREDS OF HOLIDAY RECIPES OVER THE YEARS IN TRAVERSE, NORTHERN MICHIGAN’S MAGAZINE AND ON MYNORTH.COM. HERE ARE A FEW OF OUR FAVORITES FROM CHEFS, BAKERS, FARMERS AND NEIGHBORS ACROSS THE NORTH. ADD SOME LOCAL FLAVOR TO YOUR THANKSGIVING TABLE WITH THESE DELICIOUS DISHES.

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MURIEL’S PUMPKIN PIE BARS

GRANDMA EVA’S APPLE PIE

“This recipe was passed to our family by my husband’s mother, Muriel Barr. My husband, Tim Barr, and I own Art’s Tavern in Glen Arbor. We have made these treats to share during our Customer Appreciation Day. While Muriel was still alive, she always, always, always made these for the holiday season. This version of the recipe was given to us by my husband’s brother, Sam Barr. It’s the family-size version. Muriel was a very special woman and we would love to honor her memory by sharing this recipe.” —Bonnie Nescot, owner of Art’s Tavern

“My grandparents Bert and Eva Haywood had a farm in Benzie County. When I was in 7th grade at Boardman School in Traverse City, I would often walk to the train depot after school on Friday and take the train to Bendon to spend the weekend with them. My grandfather would meet the train, picking up the mailbag for the post office. He would carry a lighted lantern, which was always comforting to me, as it would be dark outside by the time I arrived. Grandma Eva’s kitchen always smelled like food, especially homemade bread and fresh apple pie. She cooked on an old kitchen woodstove. This is her recipe.” —Phyllis Kilcherman, now retired after running Kilcherman’s Christmas Cove Farm in Northport with her husband, John, for more than 40 years

INGREDIENTS CRUST 1 cup flour ½ cup quick oats K cup brown sugar K cup butter FILLING 16 ounces canned pumpkin (NOT pumpkin pie filling) 13 K ounces evaporated milk 2 eggs, slightly beaten K teaspoon cloves ¾ cup sugar K teaspoon salt K teaspoon ginger 1 teaspoon cinnamon TOPPING K cup brown sugar K cup chopped pecans or walnuts 2 tablespoons butter DIRECTIONS CRUST: Blend ingredients until crumbly. Press into greased 9x13 pan. Bake at 350 degrees for 20 minutes. FILLING: Blend ingredients and pour into baked crust. Bake at 350 degrees for 20 minutes. TOPPING: Combine ingredients. Sprinkle over hot filling and bake 20 minutes or until filling is set. Cool in pan and cut into 2-inch squares.

ROASTED PUMPKIN WITH APPLE, CRANBERRY, SAUSAGE AND GOAT CHEESE

INGREDIENTS 2 cups plus L cup regular flour 1 cup shortening Dash of salt 1 cup of milk 2 quarts of Duchess of Oldenburg apples ¾ cup plus sprinkle of sugar ½ teaspoon cinnamon ½ teaspoon nutmeg Dash of cloves 1-2 tablespoons butter, cut into pats Egg wash (1 egg, 2 tablespoons of milk, lightly beaten) DIRECTIONS CRUST: Mix the first three ingredients well, reserving the L cup of flour, until mixture looks like peas. Then add the milk. Mix again, and roll out on a floured surface to the size of your pie pan. Divide the mixture into two parts, one for the bottom crust and one for the top. Peel and slice the apples into fairly thick chunks, as it will bake up easily. Place in bottom pie crust. Cover with ¾ cup of sugar and cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves. Sprinkle with L cup flour and butter. Place top crust. Seal the edges with dampened fingertips. Paint top with egg wash and sprinkle with sugar. Cut slits in top crust. Bake at 375 degrees for about 40 minutes.

“It seemed every year at my house growing up as a kid that my dad couldn’t wait for fall to come around so he could eat squash. This dish gets its roots from my father’s love of squash/pumpkin. He was a diesel mechanic by trade, and could build or fix anything, but he also loved to cook. He would stuff pumpkins or squash with anything he could in the fall. I like to use pie pumpkins, because I love how sweet the flesh is, and it loves to be paired with apples.” —Tommy Kaszubowski, executive chef at Chandler’s in Petoskey INGREDIENTS 1 pie pumpkin 1 cup bulk breakfast sausage 1 onion, diced 2 apples, golden delicious or other hearty apple, peeled, diced and sautéed briefly 1 cup walnuts, toasted 1 cup dried cranberries ¼ cup sage 1 quart apple cider 1 teaspoon cold butter 8 small slices Humboldt Fog goat cheese 1 cup arugula, washed and trimmed DIRECTIONS Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Carefully cut pumpkin into quarters and scoop out seeds and fibers; save seeds if desired. Season pumpkin with salt, pepper and nutmeg and roast until golden and tender, about 30-40 minutes. While the pumpkin is in the oven, place the sausage in a large sauté pan and render with a touch of oil until browned. Add the onion and continue to cook until onion starts to color. Add the diced apples and cook 3-4 minutes longer. Transfer to a bowl and fold in the walnuts, cranberries and sage. While pumpkins are roasting, place cider in a pot and boil until thick, being careful not to burn. Remove cider reduction from heat and whisk in butter. Keep warm. Remove pumpkin quarters from the oven and allow to rest at room temperature for 10 minutes. Do not turn off oven. Fill the pumpkins evenly with the sausage mixture, top with goat cheese, and roast for 10 minutes longer or until the mixture is heated through and cheese has slightly melted.

COURTNEY KENT

ASSEMBLY Place the stuffed pumpkins in the center of each of four plates, garnish with arugula and drizzle cider reduction over the top. Serve immediately.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | NOV '20

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THE GIF T OF FRESH FOOD IT TAKES A COMMUNITY TO GROW AND DELIVER LOCAL PRODUCE TO NORTHERN MICHIGANâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S RESIDENTS FACING FOOD INSECURITY. LUCKY FOR US ALL, NORTHERN MICHIGAN IS THAT COMMUNITY. TEXT AND PHOTOS BY ALLISON JARRELL

MyNorth.com

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JOSH MOLLIGAN, LAKEVIEW HILL FARM

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ris Thomas didn’t know much about Northern Michigan’s food insecurity when she embarked on a study in 2014. The retired nuclear engineer, Benzie County Rotarian and chairwoman of the Paul Oliver Memorial Hospital board spent six months studying food security issues within a five-county area (Antrim, Benzie, Grand Traverse, Kalkaska and Leelanau), conducting several hundred interviews with people who utilize local pantries. What she heard, time and again, were heartbreaking stories from Northern Michigan families in need of fresh food. Thomas looked around at an agricultural region brimming with local produce and a community of local farmers committed to staying in farming. “I wanted to be able to eventually find a way in which we could actually purchase food from farmers to support them and to support community food security,” Thomas says. And so, she did. The idea was to raise money to buy produce from local farmers, helping them to stay in farming; build a coalition of partners to distribute the food, allowing them to add local fresh products at their access sites; and make it possible for foodinsecure families to share in the region’s bountiful harvest. In 2018, working with the Northwest Food Coalition, the Farm2Neighbor pilot program was launched, thanks to donations from Rotary Clubs, Cherry Republic, the Orton Family Foundation and various individual donors. The Northwest Food Coalition, founded in 1994, was the ideal partner, offering a roughly 70-member alliance of food pantries, emergency meal sites and baby pantries in a six-county area of Northwest Michigan.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | NOV '20

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That first year, approximately 8,000 pounds of fresh food were distributed to pantries and meal sites—a cornucopia of parsnips, carrots, radishes, turnips, asparagus, tomatoes, green beans, pears, acorn squash, butternut squash, apples, cabbage and purple and golden beets. Talk to any of the many folks involved with the Northwest Food Coalition and Farm2Neighbor, and one thing is clear—the work they’re doing would be impossible without the collaboration and relationships among members of the Coalition, Goodwill Food Rescue, Groundwork Center for Resilient Communities, farmers, pantries, meal sites and the many volunteers associated with each organization. IT STARTS IN THE FIELDS

It’s a sunny August morning, and farmers John Dindia and Bailey Samp, alongside employees Josh Molligan and Nick Truba, are crouched down, tucked among the bright, leafy rows of summer crops at Lakeview Hill Farm in Traverse City. Today, they are working to unearth ruby red radishes from the soil. They pluck and collect the fresh-from-the-earth veggies, carefully rubber band bundles of the precious cargo and load them into bins before moving on to harvesting multicolored peppers and microgreens. This organic, farm-fresh produce will make its way to a multitude of outlets: Lakeview Hill’s farm store, farmers markets, the CSA they participate in and local retailers like Oryana and Olsen’s. But since 2018, some of Lakeview Hill’s produce also goes to feeding the food insecure throughout the North through the Farm2Neighbor program. John and Bailey grow 20 to 30 different crops at Lakeview Hill, but derive about 75–80 percent of their income from four: tomatoes, cucumbers, baby leaf greens and microgreens and shoots. This year—thanks to successful fundraising for the Coalition by local nonprofit Groundwork Center for Resilient Communities—the couple was able to sell twice the amount to the Coalition through Farm2Neighbor: 1,000 pounds of tomatoes and 800 pounds of cucumbers made their way to food pantries and meal sites in the region. John says that opportunity can be crucial at times when their regular market stream can’t handle the amount of produce they have. This has been especially helpful during the pandemic—selling to restaurants accounted for about 30 percent of Lakeview Hill’s gross sales last year, and when COVID-19 hit, restaurant sales slid down to 15 percent of what they normally were. Thanks to extra funding, the Coalition was able to purchase some of that produce, allowing John and Bailey to recapture lost revenue. “It’s been great, especially in the summer. It’s almost all perishable product, so we have a couple days to get rid of this produce or it’s going in a compost pile,” John says. “So, it’s a win-win. It feels great to know that the food’s being consumed by people who need it.”

FROM FIELD TO TABLE: NO EASY TASK

Meghan McDermott, director of programs at Groundwork Center for Resilient Communities, says when Thomas raised the initial $30,000 in 2018 for food purchases for the Coalition, Groundwork was thrilled, and helped connect them to one of their longest-standing Farm to School partners, Providence Farm. “The first purchase of local, organic carrots, turnips and radishes for just 75 cents per pound was an incredible accomplishment,” McDermott recalls. It was clear Thomas’ idea was a win/win, but it also came with logistical complexity. So, when Farm2Neighbor needed a staff person, Groundwork stepped in to hire a ¾-time staffer to support the effort. Thomas says it was the addition of this purchasing coordinator—Food Equity Specialist Christina Barkel—that really allowed the program to take off. Barkel works with Taylor Moore, manager of Goodwill Food Rescue, to coordinate produce purchases from area farms. Moore then works on the logistics of picking up the food, prepping it and transporting it to pantries. “We have the trucks, storage, cooler space and the kitchen needed to take that food in and get it ready to go,” Moore says. Goodwill Food Rescue has been picking up soon-to-expire food from grocery stores, farms and bakeries, and distributing it to pantries and meal sites throughout the five counties since October 2008. “But with the start of the Farm2Neighbor program, we’re doing even more—we’re distributing purchased local produce as well as purchased non-perishables that the Coalition is buying,” Moore says. Moore’s team of volunteers at Goodwill Food Rescue can repackage up to 1,600 pounds of produce a day at their Traverse City facility. He says it’s encouraging to fulfill Goodwill’s mission while supporting local farmers in their farming endeavors. “Supporting our farmers is important, especially up here, with such an incredible diversity and a lot of younger farmers. There’s so much farmland that’s being lost,” Moore says. “People coming to these pantries have a right to access healthy food.” Mary Clulo, who serves on the Coalition’s operating committee with Thomas, says the pantries have received positive feedback from residents who visited the sites and, for the first time, were able to pick up freshly harvested produce. “People appreciate getting fresh produce when it’s sometimes cost prohibitive for them,” Clulo says. “They’re able to transform their expectations as we transform. There was a time when you went to the pantry and got shelf-stable items. But to get SSI [Supplemental Security Income] and then also walk away with tomatoes, asparagus, beautiful orange carrots and parsnips from such farms as Providence Farm, Buchan’s blueberries ... To me, it’s an affirmation of how we value people and value their health, and the importance that they get quality food. We’re able to invest in higher nutritional quality items for them because it’s important to them, and thus, it’s important to us.”

SHOWN LEFT TO RIGHT: FRESHLY PICKED PEPPERS // JOHN DINDIA AND BAILEY SAMP, LAKEVIEW HILL FARM // TAYLOR MOORE, GOODWILL FOOD RESCUE MANAGER // THE FIRST FARM2NEIGHBOR PURCHASE: ORGANIC CARROTS, TURNIPS AND RADISHES FROM PROVIDENCE FARM // NICK TRUBA, BAILEY SAMP AND JOSH MOLLIGAN HARVEST RADISHES AT LAKEVIEW HILL FARM

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | NOV '20

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THE COALITION IN THE TIME OF COVID-19 When COVID-19 hit, McDermott says Groundwork staff came together to think of how they could best serve the community during a time of crisis. They landed on the Local Food Relief Fund, and within eight days, they had raised more than $130,000 to purchase and distribute local produce. The funds were divided among Manna Food Project (based in Harbor Springs), the Northwest Food Coalition and Goodwill Food Rescue. To date, the fund has raised more than $187,000 from 600-plus individual donors, McDermott says. That’s good news for Andrea and Ryan Romeyn, owners of Providence Organic Farm in Central Lake. The Romeyns have been involved with the Coalition and its programs from the start, committed to making sure community members have access to fresh, healthy food. This year alone, they’ve contributed 1,000 pounds of tomatoes, 800 pounds of carrots, as well as zucchini, cabbage and squash. “We’ve been working with pantries for a very long time, ever since I’ve been farming up here,” Ryan says. This includes a close relationship with their local pantry, Good Samaritan, which comes out to their farm weekly to pick up produce (separate from Farm2Neighbor). “But also, what Groundwork is doing and Northwest Food Coalition and Manna [Food Project], being able to buy from local farms, to get this food—local, organic—into populations that might not have the income to spend extra on organic, to me, is very meaningful,” Ryan says. “It’s filling that niche, and the burden isn’t all on the farmer to span that gap. They’re sharing the burden, and they’re covering that gap. I think it’s really good for our community.” Ryan says he’s grateful for the people involved with the Coalition and for organizing Farm2Neighbor, adding that he was surprised and excited by the quantity of money raised in the spring. “I know it takes a lot of people, and a lot of coordination and administration. It takes a lot of fundraising, and a lot of generous people to give money to it. “People want to share—sometimes we just need to have easier ways to do that,” he says. “I’m very grateful as a farmer, because it’s also making it easier for me to get my food to the people in need, in a very efficient way. Hopefully it will continue. I would love for this to be—for the rest of my farming career—to be a part of what we do.” Allison Jarrell is associate editor of Traverse Magazine. allison@mynorth.com

SHOWN LEFT TO RIGHT: BAILEY SAMP HARVESTING RADISHES AT LAKEVIEW HILL FARM // FRESHLY PICKED TOMATOES // TAYLOR MOORE, GOODWILL NORTHERN MICHIGAN FOOD RESCUE MANAGER, REPACKAGES WATERMELONS FROM SECOND SPRING FARM IN LEELANAU COUNTY // BAILEY SAMP HARVESTING PEPPERS AT LAKEVIEW HILL FARM // ANDREA AND RYAN ROMEYN, PROVIDENCE ORGANIC FARM

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | NOV '20

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A Joyful North This year, we’re finding joy in Northern Michigan’s beautiful winter landscapes and welcoming downtowns; in exploring, dining and shopping locally to support our neighbors and friends; and in being together, in spirit if not always in person. We hope MyNorth Holidays helps you engage in the wonder of being Up North during the holidays, and the winter season beyond, with authentic ways to shop, give and experience joy in our small towns. —The Elves at MyNorth

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MyNorth Holidays is produced by MyNorthMedia. Advertising and editorial offices at: 125 Park St., Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. 231.941.8174, MyNorth.com. All rights reserved. Copyright 2020, Prism Publications Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

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SHOP LOCAL ON-LINE Look for the pink bow to find out more about these on-line businesses. BAHLES bahles.net / page 28

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nts e v e y a holid Visit MyNorth.com/Events, grayling-mi.com and graylingchamber.com for Santa sightings, tree lightings and more.

GRAYLING Spend a jolly day outdoors snow tubing, snowboarding, downhill and cross-country skiing or snowmobiling. Then head downtown to warm up in local shops, restaurants and breweries. PHOTO BY TRACI COOK

DOWNTOWN DESTINATIONS Michigan Avenue is home to The Curator (local makers, kitchen goodies and so much more), Tip‘n the Mitten (Michigan-made gifts and goodies) and The Sweet Life (lots and lots of treats). Outdoors lovers, head to Northbound Outfitters and Old AuSable Fly Shop.

SANTA’S SECRET Need help finding the perfect gift? The thoughtful team at The Curator will pick it out for you! Just head to the website, select your price limit ($50– $200) and fill out a short form about the recipient’s likes and dislikes. Have the gift shipped or pick it up at the shop. thecuratorgrayling.com

MERRY MAKING The best way to spread Christmas cheer is to sip a craft beer. Find creative brews in Grayling at Paddle Hard Brewing, Dead Bear Brewing Co. and Rolling Oak Brewing Co. paddlehardbrewing.com, deadbearbrewing.net, rollingoakbrewing.com

O’ CHRISTMAS TREE The Crawford County Sheriff’s Office sells pre-cut trees in the parking lot at Tractor Supply (2425 S, I-75 Business Loop). Donations and sales from the Cops for Kids Christmas Tree Sale allow employees from the Sheriff's Office to purchase gifts for kids just before Christmas.

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ts n e v e y holida Visit MyNorth.com/Events, gaylordmichigan.net and gaylordchamber.com for Santa sightings, tree lightings and more.

GAYLORD Experience the North’s “Alpine Village” while strolling to shops and eateries in Gaylord’s Swiss-themed downtown. Then get out and explore the surrounding forests and trails by snowmobile, ski and even raft. PHOTO BY GAYLORD AREA TOURISM BUREAU

DOWNTOWN DESTINATIONS Lit by the glow of lamp posts, Main Street is the can’t-miss shopping hub lined with distinctive boutiques such as Hogan’s Jewelers, The Rusty Pelican and White Birch Outfitters. On nearby Otsego Avenue, stop into Isabella’s Copper Pot and Old Spud Warehouse.

SANTA’S SECRET A very special guest from the North Pole visits Gaylord each year during the Downtown Christmas Stroll, when businesses offer discounts and holiday activities. This year’s event is set for December 12. gaylordmichigan.net

MERRY MAKING Gaylord sits in Lower Michigan’s snow belt and, on average, receives 152 wonderfully fluffy inches each year. Take advantage of this winter wonderland at one of the area’s two ski resorts: Otsego Resort and Treetops Resort. (A weekend getaway is fun gift idea for couples or parents!)

O’ CHRISTMAS TREE Martell’s Northwoods Tree Farm is a family-run, full-service farm with U-Cut and Pre-Cut trees available in all sizes. Wreaths, centerpieces, ornaments and more are available in the gift shop. facebook.com/martellsnorthwoodstreefarm

MyNorth.com

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ts n e v e y holida Visit MyNorth.com/Events and boynechamber.com for Santa sightings, tree lightings and more.

BOYNE CITY Winter lovers rejoice in this small town: Beautiful Avalanche Mountain Preserve has spots for snowshoeing, snowmobiling and skiing; Boyne Mountain is just 10 minutes away in friendly Boyne Falls; and Lake Charlevoix waves happy holidays in the background. PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

DOWNTOWN DESTINATIONS Walk down Water Street, stopping at shops like Mary’s of Boyne and Outdoor Beerdsman along the way, before refueling at one of several neighboring restaurants (Red Mesa Grill for Latin American fare; Cafe Santé for a European-style bistro experience; Boyne Country Provisions or Lake Street Market for a homemade meal to-go).

SANTA’S SECRET The North Pole is closer than you think! Take a horsedrawn sleigh ride to Santa’s workshop at the Northern Michigan Equine Therapy facility in Boyne City on December 5–6. There will be plenty of hot cocoa, cookies and crafts. This annual event raises funds for therapy scholarships: Tickets are $15 per person and must be purchased before the day of the event. Email or call to reserve your spot; nmequine@gmail.com, 231.881.5590. nmequine.org

MERRY MAKING The guides at Boyne Mountain’s Adventure Center are like Santa’s elves. They’ll help you plan a perfect day of winter fun: Horseback riding, fat tire biking, tubing, snowshoeing, skiing, ice skating, a zipline tour—it’s magic! boynemountain.com

O’ CHRISTMAS TREE For more than 140 years, Coveyou Scenic Farm Market, just south of Petoskey, has been providing locals and visitors with fresh produce and artisan goods. Take in icy views of Walloon Lake from the farm and browse the Barn Market before picking out your tree. coveyouscenicfarm.com

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nts e v e y a holid Visit MyNorth.com/Events and bellairechamber.org for Santa sightings, tree lightings and more.

BELLAIRE Spend a winter weekend outdoors, sprinkling in holiday shopping and dinner downtown when you’re ready to take the chill off. Your snow sport itinerary: skiing, tubing and fat tire biking at Shanty Creek Resort; snowshoeing and cross-country skiing at Grass River Natural Area; and snowmobiling the nearby Jordan Valley Trail System. PHOTO COURTESY OF BELLAIRE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

DOWNTOWN DESTINATIONS When you’re ready to warm up, find a cozy spot on Bridge Street where Short’s Brewing Company, Mammoth Distilling, Bee Well Mead & Cider and Hello Vino will welcome you with a craft bevvie. Stop into fun shops along the way, like The Spice & Tea Exchange and Uniquely North.

SANTA’S SECRET On Christmas Day, Santa will be on the slopes at Shanty Creek’s Schuss Mountain and available to take photos (Santa likes to call them “elfies,” not “selfies”) with kids of all ages. Lift tickets are complimentary from 9 a.m.–4:30 p.m., but donations for Antrim County’s area food pantries are gladly accepted as a way of paying it forward. shantycreek.com

MERRY MAKING The intricately decorated sugar cookies at Ruthann’s Gourmet Bakery come highly recommended by the jolly fellow himself. Pastry cases are filled with frosted delights, like smiling snowmen and startopped Christmas trees, alongside scones, muffins and more. ruthannsgourmetbakery.com

O’ CHRISTMAS TREE Messiahs Tree Farm has been growing elegant evergreens since 1978. Find the farm at 7916 Alden Hwy., Bellaire. facebook.com/messiahs.bellaire

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Give the gift of Stafford’s. Always a perfect fit! Stafford’s gift cards can be used at any Stafford’s location - Bay View Inn, Crooked River Lodge, Perry Hotel, the Pier or Weathervane Restaurants. Use them for dining, lodging, gift shop purchases and more. Stop by any Stafford’s establishment, choose a denomination and your Christmas shopping is done!

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ts n e v e y holida Visit MyNorth.com/Events, charlevoix.org and visitcharlevoix. com for Santa sightings, tree lightings and more.

CHARLEVOIX The trees along Bridge Street glitter with lights, welcoming you to stroll to festively decorated galleries, boutiques and restaurants in this fabulously charming town on Lake Charlevoix. PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

DOWNTOWN DESTINATIONS While you shop on Bridge Street, look for the sign for Van Pelt Alley between Clinton Street and Park Avenue, and discover the tucked away, trendy side of the city (charlevoixmercado.com). End your day with a drive past the Boss Family Christmas Display on Pearl Avenue, near Mt. McSauba. The family has been transforming their home into a light-covered spectacular since 1978.

SANTA’S SECRET Castle Farms, a few miles outside of downtown Charlevoix on M-66, transforms into a winter wonderland each Christmas. Ole St. Nick stops by for story time, the Polar Express chugs through the annual holiday train display and children mail letters to the North Pole. castlefarms.com

MERRY MAKING For a special gift and a fun activity, check out Cottage Pottery’s to-go kits, which include your choice of pottery (ornaments, vintage Christmas trees and mugs are some of the ever-changing options!) paint, brushes and step-by-step instructions. Once you’ve painted your piece, drop it back off at the studio and the team will professionally glaze and fire it. parkavenuepottery.com

O’ CHRISTMAS TREE Visit Van Houten Farm in Ellsworth, near the intersection of Essex Road and US-31, for freshly cut trees. While you’re in the area, make the seven-minute drive over to King Orchards’ M-88 Market to pick up a homemade pie (frozen and ready-to-bake). Pop it in the oven before you start decorating your tree for a special treat when you’re done. facebook.com/vanhoutenfarm, kingorchards.com

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ts n e v e y holida Visit MyNorth.com/Events and harborspringschamber.com for Santa sightings, tree lightings and more.

HARBOR SPRINGS Celebrate the holiday season in this postcard-perfect town on Little Traverse Bay. The merry glow from the town’s Christmas tree has welcomed rosy-cheeked visitors since 1915. PHOTO BY ANGELA BROWN

DOWNTOWN DESTINATIONS This harborside hamlet is filled with splendid boutiques such as Elizabeth Blair Fine Pearls and Hilda of Harbor. Peruse the 19th-century storefronts, eateries and galleries on Main Street, and don’t miss local favorites like Tom’s Mom’s Cookies and Boyer Glassworks tucked on Spring and State streets.

SANTA’S SECRET Outside, a candy-cane colored awning welcomes you to Pierson's Grille & Spirits. Inside, walls covered in antique signs, skis and snowshoes make it feel like you're lounging at a local ski resort. The restaurant is open 365 days a year, so you can always order the beloved olive burger—even on Christmas. piersonsgrille.com

MERRY MAKING This year brings the 105th anniversary of the Harbor Springs Christmas tree lighting. Gather with family and neighbors to sing carols around the tree on November 28. harborspringschamber.com

O’ CHRISTMAS TREE Nestled on M-119, Pond Hill Farm has pre-cut trees, wreaths and garland. After you pick your tree, hit up the sledding hill or miles of groomed trails for cross-country skiing, fat tire biking and snowshoeing. pondhill.com

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ts n e v e y holida Visit MyNorth.com/Events, petoskeydowntown.com and petoskeychamber.com for Santa sightings, tree lightings and more.

PETOSKEY Twinkling lights shine above the historic Gaslight District, and local merchants offer fabulous items for everyone on your nice list. After a day downtown, kids and adults yell “wheeeee!” as they take on the sledding hill at Petoskey’s Winter Sports Park. PHOTO BY PETOSKEY AREA VISITORS BUREAU

DOWNTOWN DESTINATIONS Mitchell, Lake and Howard streets bustle with shoppers stopping into the more than 170 shops and restaurants of the Gaslight District. American Spoon and Grandpa Shorter’s are classics, and there are many more to discover!

SANTA’S SECRET Johan’s Pastry Shop bakes a spectacular sour cream doughnut, and the other flavors are tasty, too! Order a dozen so you can share with Santa (or not). facebook.com/ johanspastryshop

MERRY MAKING Santa himself flies in to light the Christmas tree in Pennsylvania Park during Petoskey’s Holiday Open House, always held on the first Friday of December. The streets close down and are filled with carolers and the amazing Petoskey High School Steel Drum Band. petoskeydowntown.com

O’ CHRISTMAS TREE Walk the 20-acre farm at Goslin’s Greenery to find and cut your perfect tree (Pre-Cut also available), or visit Bill’s Farm Market for freshly cut trees, wreaths and garland. goslinsgreenery.com, billsfarmmarket.com

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9 1. HANDKNIT SWEATER | MacBeth & Co., Onekama, 231.889.0352, macbethandcompany.com, $60 2. GROW BIGFOOT | Old Spud Warehouse, Gaylord, 989.731.0330, oldspudwarehouse.com, $5.99

All are merry and bright.

3. SLUMBERKINS SET | The Sweet Life, Grayling, 989.745.6543, thesweetlifegrayling.com, $42 each

PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER | CURATED BY CARLY SIMPSON AND RACHEL WATSON

MyNorth.com

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Harbor Springs

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13 4. HANDMADE BOWS | The Curator, Grayling, 989.745.6306, thecuratorgrayling.com, $13

7. GROW A TREE KIT | Inspired Living, Boyne City, 231.582.2663, balilivingimports.com, $10 each

11. 500-PIECE PUZZLE | The Lake House, Charlevoix, 231.437.3425, thelakehousecharlevoix.com, $20.99

5. BOOK CLUB FOR KIDS & YOUNG ADULTS | Brilliant Books, Traverse City, 231.946.2665, brilliant-books.net, Prices vary by membership length and club type

8. ALPACA HAT | Crystal Lake Alpaca Boutique, Frankfort, 231.920.7085, crystallakealpacaboutique.com, $39

12. ONESIE, LEGGINGS, SUSPENDER SKIRT | The Curator, Grayling, 989.745.6306, thecuratorgrayling.com, onesie: $18, leggings: $20, skirt: $22

6. SLOTH STUFFED ANIMAL | Crystal Lake Alpaca Boutique, Frankfort, 231.920.7085, crystallakealpacaboutique.com, $89

9. KIDS HYDRO FLASK | The Outfitter of Harbor Springs, 231.526,2621, outfitterharborsprings.com, $29.95

13. ANIMAL SLINGSHOT | Old Spud Warehouse, Gaylord, 989.731.0330, oldspudwarehouse.com, $18.99

10. FOREST ANIMALS MEMORY GAME | Coastal, Glen Arbor, 231.835.2120, crystalriveroutfitters.com/coastal, $12 2020 HOLIDAYS

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1. THE GENERAL'S HOT SAUCE | Lynn & Perin Mercantile Co., Frankfort, 231.352.5600, lynnandperin.com, $13.99 2. SIGNATURE SPICE TIN | The Spice & Tea Exchange, Bellaire, 231.533.4443, spiceandtea.com/bellaire, $12.99

Gather 'round the table this holiday season.

3. CHEESE PLATE | Serendipity, Cadillac, 231.468.3241, iloveserendipity.com, $14.95

PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER | CURATED BY CARLY SIMPSON AND RACHEL WATSON

MyNorth.com

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Harbor Springs Petoskey Charlevoix Boyne City Bellaire Gaylord Leelanau raverse City T Frankfort Manistee

Grayling

Cadillac

4. CORK THERMAL BAG | The Rusty Pelican, Gaylord, 989.448.8697, therustypelicanwineshop.com, $26.99 5. LAMIE WELLNESS TEA | West Bay Handmade, Traverse City, 231.252.8482, westbayhandmade.com, large: $19.99, small: $7.99 6. CAMP CRAFT COCKTAILS | Inspired Living, Boyne City, 231.582.2663, balilivingimports.com, $24 each 7. BALSAMIC VINEGAR & OLIVE OIL | Lynn & Perin Mercantile Co., Frankfort, 231.352.5600, lynnandperin.com, $16.99 each

8. CHOCOLATE FUDGE SAUCE & SALTED MAPLE CARAMEL GIFT SET | American Spoon, Petoskey, Harbor Springs, Charlevoix, Traverse City, spoon.com, $28.90 9. COPPER SALT & PEPPER SHAKERS | The Sweet Life, Grayling, 989.745.6543, thesweetlifegrayling.com, $20 10. CUTTING BOARD/SERVING PLATTER | The Ideal Kitchen, Manistee, 231.398.9895, theidealkitchen.com, $32

11. CRAFT CIDER | Suttons Bay Ciders, Suttons Bay, 231.271.6000, suttonsbayciders.com, $8 12. SINGLE PULL WINE OPENER | The Katydid, Petoskey, 231.758.1030, thekatydid.com, $42.98 13. CRAFT CHOCOLATE | Grocer's Daughter Chocolate, Empire, 231.326.3030, grocersdaughter.com, Hot Drinking Chocolate Mix: $14, Very Berry Bar: $6.50, Truffles (16-piece set): $39

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7 1. EXPANDABLE GNOME | Serendipity, Cadillac, 231.468.3241, iloveserendipity.com, $64.95 2. LICENSE PLATE BOTTLE OPENER | Tip'n the Mitten, Grayling, 989.745.4571, tipnthemitten.com, $45

There's no place like home for the holidays ... PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER | CURATED BY CARLY SIMPSON AND RACHEL WATSON

3. METAL TREES | Crystal Moon, Beulah, 231.651.5009, facebook.com/crystalmoonbeulah, $25 each 4. PETOSKEY STONE PILLOWS | Grandpa Shorter's, Petoskey, 231.347.2603, grandpashorters.com, square: $110, oblong: $105

MyNorth.com

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Petoskey Charlevoix

Leelanau

Elk Rapids

raverse City T Beulah Manistee

Boyne City

Grayling

Cadillac

13 5. TORCH LAKE SIGN | Nifty Things, Elk Rapids, 231.264.6420, niftythingsonline.com, $39.99

8. BLANKET | Coastal, Glen Arbor, 231.835.2120, crystalriveroutfitters.com/coastal, $99.50

11. WOOD PILLAR CANDLE HOLDERS | Tip'n the Mitten, Grayling, 989.745.4571, tipnthemitten.com, $29 for set

6. MASON JAR MUG, GREAT LAKES LEATHER & CLOTH | West Bay Handmade, Traverse City, 231.252.8482, westbayhandmade.com, $29

9. CHAKRA STONE PACK | Inspired Living, Boyne City, 231.582.2663, balilivingimports.com, $28

12. GOLF CLUB BOTTLE OPENER | The Lake House, Charlevoix, 231.437.3425, thelakehousecharlevoix.com, $25

10. CERAMIC HOMES | MacBeth & Co., Onekama, 231.889.0352, macbethandcompany.com, tall: $14.50, short: $12

13. STONE & WOOD WELCOME SIGN | The Lake House, Charlevoix, 231.437.3425, thelakehousecharlevoix.com, $89

7. HANDCRAFTED SOAPS | Wildflower Soapworks, Elk Rapids, 231.264.8000, wildflowersoapworks.com, $7.50 each or 5 for $35

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Outdoor Adventurers Through the snowy northern woods we go! PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER | CURATED BY CARLY SIMPSON AND RACHEL WATSON

1. M22 CLASSIC ROLL TOP DRY BAG | M22, Traverse City, 231.360.9090, m22.com, $35 2. SUNGLASSES | Coastal, Glen Arbor, 231.835.2120, crystalriveroutfitters.com/coastal, $25 3. PICNIC SET | The Curator, Grayling, 989.745.6306, thecuratorgrayling.com, $155 4. FRAMED RAINBOW TROUT PRINT, DANI KNOPH WILDLIFE STUDIO | MacBeth & Co., Onekama, 231.889.0352, macbethandcompany.com, $140

MyNorth.com

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5. TUNIC SWEATER | White Birch Outfitters, Gaylord, 989.732.2223, whitebirchoutfitters.com, $89 6. MICHIGAN POM HAT | Coastal, Glen Arbor, 231.835.2120, crystalriveroutfitters.com/coastal, $25 7. SWEATSHIRT | White Birch Outfitters, Gaylord, 989.732.2223, whitebirchoutfitters.com, $70

8. 2-DAY CAMP MEAL KIT FOR TWO | Crystal Lake Adventure Sports, Frankfort, 231.399.0329, crystallakeadventuresports.com, $119 9. HOP LOT POSTERS | Hop Lot Brewing Co., Suttons Bay, 231.866.4445, hoplotbrewing.com, $15 each 10. PATAGONIA DUFFLE | The Outpost, Manistee, 231.398.5556, outpostmanistee.com, $139

11. SNAPBACK HAT | My Michigan Roots, Elk Rapids, 844.766.8744, mymichiganroots.com, $26 12. ALPACA HAT & MITTENS | Crystal Lake Alpaca Boutique, Frankfort, 231.920.7085, crystallakealpacaboutique.com, hat: $42, mittens: $43 13. BOHO BANDEAU | Up North Apparel, Grayling, 989.390.6614, facebook.com/upnorthapparelmich, full Size: $13, half size: $10 2020 HOLIDAYS

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ts n e v e y holida Visit MyNorth.com/Events and dda.downtowntc.com for Santa sightings, tree lightings and more.

TRAVERSE CITY Grand Traverse Bay winks in the background as shoppers and revelers dip in and out of Front Street stores, sip coffee and browse the boutiques in the trendy Warehouse District and delight in a winter wonderland at The Village at Grand Traverse Commons. Spend a day enjoying each of the unique locales. PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

DOWNTOWN DESTINATIONS Front Street’s shops and restaurants are wonderfully festive during the holidays. Start your day on the east end at Bubbie’s Bagels. Then head downtown to the cheery boutiques and galleries between Boardman Avenue and Union Street. Finish on the west end: The Cheese Lady’s store is downright jolly, as is owner Tina Zinn, and her team will help you pick out goodies for the best-ever charcuterie board to serve with your holiday meal.

SANTA’S SECRET The Warehouse District, tucked just off Front on Hall and Garland, is edgy yet cozy. Your must-stops: Warehouse MRKT (for breakfast at BLK\MRKT and shopping), Antiquities Warehouse of Grand Traverse (it’s a treasure trove of oneof-a-kind architectural pieces and furniture) and Mammoth Distilling (on Mondays, make your own whiskey blend from the hundreds of aged barrels in the distillery’s rick house; reservations required).

MERRY MAKING The Village at Grand Traverse Commons looks like a scene from a snow globe. Get pastries and pancakes at S2S or Red Spire Brunch House, roam the one-of-a-kind shops in the Mercato and glide along cross-country ski trails at The Grand Traverse Commons Natural Area behind Building 50. thevillagetc.com

O’ CHRISTMAS TREE Robinson Family Christmas Tree Farm (6777 Herkner Rd.), Clark’s Family Farm (10151 N. Long Lake Rd.) and Schmuckal Christmas Tree Farms in neighboring Kingsley (5719 Schneider Rd.) are all favorites. Follow them each on Facebook for this year’s festivities (Santa visits, cocoa, cookies!).

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downtown suttons bay The fun store behind the pink bench

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penningtoncollection.com

102 Mill Street, Northport, MI 49670

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ts n e v e y holida Visit MyNorth.com/Events, cedarmichamber.com, empirechamber.com, leelanauchamber.com, lelandmi.com, northportomenachamber.org, suttonsbayarea.com and visitglenarbor.com for Santa sightings, tree lightings and more.

LEELANAU Experience small-town cheer and charming traditions in nine villages aglow with welcoming storefronts and cozy restaurants. PHOTO COURTESY OF CHERRY REPUBLIC

DOWNTOWN DESTINATIONS Black Friday and Shop Small Saturday are a wonderful time to support local businesses. The Secret Garden in Empire, Polish Art Center in Cedar, Bahle’s of Suttons Bay, Tampico in Leland and The Pennington Collection in Northport are just a few of the many must-visits.

SANTA’S SECRET Several tree lighting celebrations take place each year on the Friday and Saturday following Thanksgiving. Leland and Glen Arbor light their trees on November 27 (Glen Arbor isn't hosting an event; watch the lighting on social media) and Northport follows on November 28. In Suttons Bay, take part in Holiday in the Village on November 28—most shops stay open late and the streets are lined with luminaries.

MERRY MAKING You’ll have a holly jolly time on the Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail, voted No. 2 Top Wine Region in North America by USA Today, during its annual Premium Pour event (November 27 through the month of December). lpwines.com

O’ CHRISTMAS TREE For the perfect tree, venture across Leelanau’s rolling hills, past a 19th-century church to Kolarik Christmas Tree Farm in Suttons Bay (near the corner of Kolarik and Houdek roads). Pre-Cut or chop your own (saws available if needed). facebook. com/KolarikChristmasTreeFarm

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ts n e v e y holida Visit MyNorth.com/Events, manisteechamber.com and visitmanisteecounty.com for Santa sightings, tree lightings and more.

MANISTEE MANISTEE'S VICTORIAN SLEIGHBELL PARADE AND OLD CHRISTMAS WEEKEND HAS BEEN POSTPONED UNTIL 2021. SAVE THE DATE FOR DECEMBER 2–5, 2021.

Snow days in Manistee are pretty epic. After you take on nearly 100 downhill runs at the nearby ski resorts Crystal Mountain and Caberfae Peaks, warm up downtown at a local craft brewery, restaurant or pub.

DOWNTOWN DESTINATIONS The Victorian architecture on River Street is even prettier frosted with snow. Rise and shine with a cup of locally roasted, direct trade coffee at The Outpost, and browse the quality selection of men’s and women’s clothing. Then make your way down the street where you’ll find Glik’s, Kellie’s Hallmark, The Ideal Kitchen and more along the way.

SANTA’S SECRET Manistee County has miles and miles of snow-covered trails. Big-M Recreation Area has 18 groomed miles for classic cross-country skiing, and the Manistee Non-Motorized Park offers nearly 4 miles for classic and skate-style skiing. Both have groomed areas for fat tire biking, too. And then, of course, there's a 250-plus-mile network for snowmobilers, or gorgeous snowshoeing at Magoon Creek and Arcadia Dunes.

PHOTO BY ANDREW ALLEN, MANISTEE COUNTY VISITORS BUREAU

MERRY MAKING Each year, the Village of Bear Lake in Manistee County hosts Sparkle in the Park, a free drivethrough light display at Hopkins Park. While this year’s event will look a little different due to COVID-19, the decorated sites in the park will be bigger and better than ever with more than 60,000 lights. The event starts November 28 and runs through December. Watch for updates at facebook.com/sparkleinthepark.

O’ CHRISTMAS TREE In neighboring Ludington, Nickelson's Christmas Trees has U-Cut and Pre-Cut trees. Follow the farm on Facebook or call 231.845.6383.

MyNorth.com

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nts e v e y a holid Visit MyNorth.com/Events, benzie.org and clcba.org for Santa sightings, tree lightings and more.

DOWNTOWN DESTINATIONS Shopping in teensy tiny Beulah is like going on a treasure hunt. At Unearthed, find incredible jewelry, fossils and crystals. Cooks and foodies are in for a treat at Crystal Crate & Cargo, and at Crystal Moon and Northern Decor, fun gifts and one-ofa-kind home goods abound. And there’s plenty more to discover!

BEULAH Sweet storefronts and a new brewery shine brightly in this darling village on the shore of Crystal Lake. Make a day of browsing Benzie Boulevard’s boutiques and eateries.

SANTA’S SECRET Take a snowy sleigh ride through the woods and fields of the 120-acre Fantail Farm in neighboring Benzonia. Or call to schedule a special sleigh outing, like a one-way or roundtrip ride to Iron Fish Distillery. fantailfarmllc.com

PHOTO BY KRIS RILEY

MERRY MAKING The vibes are welcoming and the beer is darn good at Five Shores Brewing. Housed in the massive Quonset building downtown, the brewery opened in January 2020, offering cider, wine and mead in addition to a well-rounded tap list. fiveshoresbrewing.com

O’ CHRISTMAS TREE In Beulah, Market Basket has Pre-Cut trees and wreaths (marketbasketbeulah.com). If you want to cut your own, Lutz Farms has U-Cut and Pre-Cut trees in nearby Kaleva (about a 30-minute drive from Beulah). The family farm has been in operation for 125 years and also has a seasonal retail location in Bear Lake. calvinlutzfarms.com

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Mary’s Gift Gallery | Located in Oliver Art Center | Frankfort, MI 231-352-4151 | oliverart.org | Handmade, Unique Gifts

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ts n e v e y holida Visit MyNorth.com/Events and frankfort-elberta.com for Santa sightings, tree lightings and more.

FRANKFORT Deck the streets with a craft brewery (with curling each winter!), a beautiful state-of-the-art theater, memorable eateries and fun shops, and everyone will be singing fa-la-la in Frankfort. PHOTO BY KRIS RILEY PRODUCTIONS

DOWNTOWN DESTINATIONS Park on Main Street and stop into Lynn & Perin Mercantile Co. (the collection of herbs and spices is truly spectacular), Anet & Ollie's Five and Dime (Michigan items, old fashioned toys and fun gifts), the Corner Toy Store (get your Elf on the Shelf here) and more. End at Stormcloud Brewing Company with a Belgian-inspired ale and pizza.

SANTA’S SECRET Santa loves reindeer … and alpaca. The friendly animals have incredibly soft fleece, which is used to make hats, mittens, scarves, stuffed animals and more. Find these products and meet the animals at Crystal Lake Alpaca Boutique (note, it closes for the season on December 23). crystallakealpacaboutique.com

MERRY MAKING This year, Frankfort’s Oliver Art Center is hosting an online holiday market in November and December with one-of-akind, handmade gifts. The art center will also be offering a free holiday-themed craft project available for pick up before Christmas break, and children can take part in free online youth classes (pre-recorded and using Google Classroom) throughout the year. oliverartcenterfrankfort.org

O’ CHRISTMAS TREE Old Uncle Mike's Christmas Trees has a variety of freshly cut trees, all locally grown at their farm three miles from the lot. Located in Benzonia at 3100 Benzie Hwy., near the corner of US-31 and M-115. facebook.com/oldunclemikes

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ts n e v e y holida Visit MyNorth.com/Events and cadillacmichigan.com for Santa sightings, tree lightings and more.

CADILLAC A jolly time awaits in downtown Cadillac, where boutiques, restaurants and a brewery are tucked near the shores of Lake Cadillac. PHOTO COURTESY OF CADILLAC AREA VISITORS BUREAU

DOWNTOWN DESTINATIONS Start with breakfast at After 26 Depot Cafe. Then get all of your holiday shopping done at Mitchell Street’s many shops— Serendipity, The Ultimate Gift Shop, McLain Cycle & Fitness and more. End with a toast to the season at Clam Lake Beer Company.

SANTA’S SECRET Since 1961, the candy makers at The Sweet Shop have been crafting hundreds of unique goodies by hand. Stop in for shopping sustenance in the form of caramel corn and the store’s signature Snowbirds—the patented recipe includes white chocolate and Georgia pecans. sweetshop4u.com

MERRY MAKING When Santa wants to hit the snowmobile trails, he heads to Cadillac. More than 200 miles of groomed trails wind through the Huron Manistee National Forest and spread north, south, east and west for literally days of riding. For a guided adventure, check out K&R Outfitters (facebook.com/kandrsnowmobile). For maps and trail conditions, visit cadillacmichigan.com/project/snowmobiling.

O’ CHRISTMAS TREE Want to cut your own tree, sip free cocoa and meet Santa? Head to Dutchman Tree Farms in Manton (dutchmantreefarms. com). Looking for a beautiful pre-cut evergreen? Stop by the Liabenow Christmas Tree Lot at Walraven’s Produce in Cadillac (evergreentreefarms.com). Love convenience? Brown’s Tree Farm in Lake City sells real Christmas trees online and delivers them to your home (atreetoyourdoor.com).

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Dining

RESTAURANT GUIDE | LOCAL TABLE | DRINKS

BY ALLISON JARRELL | PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

Think Global, Eat Local This holiday season, we give thanks for the bountiful diversity of restaurants that call Northern Michigan home, and celebrate the spirit within each that gives back to us all.

If you’re considering skipping the cooking this Thanksgiving, why not take the opportunity to celebrate with some international cuisine and in the process, give back to our community? We’re grateful for the increasing selection of global eateries across the North— restaurants where you can discover everything from the joys of a bowl of aromatic pho, to an array of flavorful, spicy curries. We caught up with the folks at The Good Bowl in Traverse City and Thai Orchid Cuisine in Petoskey to find out how they create their authentic Vietnamese and Thai cuisine. They shared with us which must-try dishes you should be adding to your holiday menu, but each also shared their commitment to giving back to their communities, through donations and supporting those who are feeding the food insecure. Gratitude abounds in their kitchens and at their tables. 4 Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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dining | international

THE GOOD BOWL 328 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY | GOODBOWLEATERY.COM

THAI ORCHID CUISINE 433 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY | THAIORCHIDPETOSKEY.COM

Co-owners Soon Hagerty and Tony Vu, who also serves as executive chef, launched The Good Bowl in July 2018—they say it was their way of thanking the U.S. for taking in their families as refugees after the Vietnam War and giving them the opportunity to live and build a life in America.

Owner Thomas Vangyi opened Thai Orchid Cuisine in Petoskey 13 years ago after he and his wife fell in love with the town. They had been visiting friends in Traverse City who introduced them to Petoskey, and in October 2007, the Vangyis started their business from scratch.

Soon says their focus is on cuisine, community and culture: introducing Northern Michigan to new cuisine that’s flavorful but accessible, supporting their community as a local business and offering events and experiences that introduce a new culture to the area.

That included making their Thai food from scratch, too. Thomas says two of their most popular dishes among local patrons also enjoy popularity in Thailand: pad thai and curry fish. Pad thai—stir-fry rice noodles with egg, green onions and bean sprouts topped with lemon and crushed peanuts—is quite common in Thailand. “It’s very simple to make and cheap, too,” Thomas says. “You can eat it quickly and move on. That’s why it’s so popular.”

To create their Vietnamese dishes, they travel to Vietnam to stay current on traditional cooking techniques, as well as upcoming trends in Southeast Asian cuisine. Soon says their aim is to offer food that’s authentic, but balanced with a modern approach, especially in a region where Asian ingredients can be hard to find. Pho—a soup consisting of broth, rice noodles, herbs and meat—is the iconic dish of Vietnam, generally eaten for breakfast or lunch as an easy on-the-go meal. It’s a popular menu item at The Good Bowl year-round (just add an ice-cold beer in the summer months!) and even has some health benefits (bone broth promotes joint health, and ginger can reduce inflammation). “You always feel good when you eat Vietnamese food, because generally it is not slathered in heavy sauces,” Soon says. “We use fresh herbs to flavor our food.” The Good Bowl was built on a mission-driven concept to support nonprofits, which Soon says they achieve by donating $1 per bowl to charity. Each quarter, guests chose one of three charities where their money will go (local, national and global options rotate).

When it comes to curry, Thai Orchid makes four varieties: masman curry (the least spicy, served with potatoes), panang curry (a mild spice with more herbs, served with bell peppers), red curry (medium spice, their most popular curry) and green curry (the spiciest, using green chilis to make the paste). Thomas says social responsibility is also a part of their philosophy as business owners, and they’re always looking for opportunities to give back and make an impact, especially in the area of relief for the food insecure. Local organizations seeking support can contact Sandy Vangyi at thaiorchidpetoskey@gmail.com. “We came from the Third World to the First World: When you come here, you have more opportunities—you see things differently,” Thomas says. “Everything we do here, we have to take care. We always like to support our community.”

PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

“Finally, and maybe the most important thing we hope to create, is a great culture for our employees,” Soon says.

MyNorth.com

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restaurant guide | dining

PETOSKEY & MACKINAC STRAITS ALANSON/BAY HARBOR/INDIAN RIVER Dutch Oven Café and Deli French toast and farmers omelet stratas, sandwiches on famous homemade bread. BL •

$ 7611 U.S. 31, ALANSON, 231.548.2231

Knot Just a Bar Contemporary sports and oyster bar perched on the Bay Harbor marina. B • $ 4165 MAIN STREET, BAY

HARBOR, 231.439.9989

Original Pancake House Crepes, waffles, pancakes, omelettes, egg specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$ 840 FRONT ST., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.2770

NEW The Queens Head Wine pub serving wine, spirits and draft beer along with delectable pub fare. LD • BAR • $ 250 N. HURON ST., CHEBOYGAN, 231.445.7101

Vintage Chophouse/ Wine Bar All-American steakhouse flavored with retro sophistication. LD • BAR • $-$$$ INN AT BAY HARBOR AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION, 3600 VILLAGE HARBOR DR., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.4051

Vivio’s Northwood Inn Locals love this cozy, rustic, wildlifedecorated log cabin with Italian cuisine and specialty pizzas. LD • BAR • $-$$ 4531 S. STRAITS HWY., INDIAN RIVER, 231.238.9471

CROSS VILLAGE/HARBOR SPRINGS/ PELLSTON/PETOSKEY

Mitchell Street Pub and Café Classic pub with fresh peanuts, fantastic nachos, Maurice salad, patty melts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 426 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231. 347.1801

CREEK RD, BELLAIRE, 231.533.9000

New York Restaurant Looks like the East Coast, tastes like heaven. D • BAR • $$-$$$ CORNER OF STATE AND BAY, HARBOR

NEW Provisions Wine Lounge Sommelier-curated wines by

SPRINGS, 231. 526.1904

Palette Bistro Little Traverse Bay views with casual upscale dining, outdoor seating and an evolving seasonal menu. Wine bar, weekend brunch and popular happy hour. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 321 BAY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3321 Pour Public House Charcuterie, gourmet sandwiches, salads, soups, bruschetta. LD • BAR • $-$$ 422 E MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY,

231.881.9800

Roast & Toast Hip coffeehouse with daily house-made soups, bread, bakery items and salads. On-site coffee roasting. A consistent MyNorth Red Hot Best winner. BLD • $ 309 E. LAKE

STREET, PETOSKEY, 231.347.7767

Sam’s Graces Café & Bakery Artisanal bakery and brick oven pizzeria. BL • $ 3393 STATE ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.1230 Side Door Saloon Excellent sandwiches, quesadillas, steak, whitefish and pastas. LD • BAR • $ 1200 N. U.S. 31, PETOSKEY, 231. 347.9291

Stafford’s Bay View Inn Gracious 1886 inn with a big veranda, glorious gardens and bay view, American fare. Sun. brunch. BLD • $$-$$$ 2011 WOODLAND, PETOSKEY, 231347.2771 Stafford’s Perry Hotel Circa-1899 hotel with a wraparound front porch and killer views of Little Traverse Bay. LD • BAR • $$–$$$ CORNER OF BAY & LEWIS, PETOSKEY, 231.347.4000

Stafford’s Pier Regional cuisine. Pointer Room—fresh seafood. LD • BAR • $$ Dudley’s Deck—LD • BAR • $$ Chart Room—D • BAR • $$ 102 BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.6201 Tap30 Pourhouse Inventive sliders, award-winning chili, Frito pie and more along with 30 beers on tap. LD • BAR • $ 422 E MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9572

Terrace Inn Planked whitefish and housemade desserts in a Victorian setting. D • BAR • $$ 1549 GLENDALE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.2410

Thai Orchid Cuisine Outstandingly fresh and authentic noodles, curries and salads. LD • $-$$ 433 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.487.9900

Villa Ristorante Italiano Chianti bottles hang from stucco walls and authentic handmade pasta, osso bucco and handrolled cannoli star. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 887 SPRING ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.1440

Barrel Back Smoked pork tacos, chopped salads, gourmet pizza and pasta, grilled beef tenderloin and more. Over 20 craft beers on tap and signature cocktails. LD • BAR $-$$$

Willow Inspired farm-to-table modern American cuisine with global wine and craft cocktail bar. D • BAR • $$ 129 EAST BAY ST.,

Beards Brewery Pizza, burgers, salads, wings and culinary surprises including pho. LD • BAR $$ 215 E LAKE ST. PETOSKEY,

CHARLEVOIX & CHAIN OF LAKES

04069 M75, WALLOON LAKE, 231.535.6000

231.753.2221

The Bistro Local favorite for saucer-sized homemade pancakes, home-cooked comfort food and soups like carrot bisque and chicken ’n’ dumpling. BL • $ 423 MICHIGAN ST., PETO-

SKEY, 231.347.5583

Boyne Highlands Main Dining Room—Casual American with Scottish influences. Focus on fresh, seasonal, local ingredients. Seminole Pub. BLD • BAR • $–$$ 600 HIGHLANDS DR., HARBOR

SPRINGS, 231.526.3000

Chandler’s Brick-walled and -floored dining inside or on the patio offers two ways to savor this art-filled eatery’s upscale menu. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 215 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, BELOW SY-

MONS GENERAL STORE, 231.347.2981

City Park Grill Hemingway drank at the massive mahogany bar in this casual spot. Scratch cuisine, wood grill, hand-cut steaks, pastas, fresh whitefish, and live entertainment. LD • BAR • $$ 432 E. LAKE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.0101

Jose’s Authentic taqueria with made-to-order Mex. LD • $ 309 PETOSKEY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3299

Julienne Tomatoes Fresh sandwiches, comfort food, and homemade pastries like lemon raspberry bars, banana caramel flan. BL • $ 421 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, 231.439.9250

Pelican's Nest Gourmet burgers, smoked ribs, sandwiches, salads and homemade desserts. D • BAR $-$$ 5085 SHANTY

HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.412.6032

the glass and bottle, classic cocktails, Michigan craft beer and small plates. LD • BAR • $$ 123 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.2151 Red Mesa Grill Colorful decor and creative Latin American cuisine with Costa Rican and Argentinean influences punctuate this lively spot. LD • BAR • $$ 117 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.0049

Stiggs Brewery Hand-crafted brews, from-scratch food like whitefish cakes, bourbon chicken sandwich, top sirloin wagyu steak. LD • BAR $-$$ 112 S. PARK ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.497.6100 Shanty Creek Resort Lakeview—Innovative regional cuisine at Shanty Creek Resort with a view of Lake Bellaire. Breakfast, lunch & dinner. The River Bistro—Breakfast buffet, sandwiches, pizzas and 45 regional beers on tap; Arnie’s at the Summit—Breakfast, Lunch, (spring-fall) Ivan’s Mountainside Gril—Schuss Village-Pub food. BLD • BAR 1 SHANTY CREEK RD. (M-88), BELLAIRE, 800.678.4111

Short’s Brewing Co. Sip Joe Short’s fabulous brew, and dine from the deli menu in a renovated hardware store. LD • BAR • $ 121 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.533.6622

Terrain Restaurant Honest yet ambitious contemporary American food with a focus on local ingredients. D • BAR • $$ 213 N BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.350.7301

Torch Riviera Pasta, seafood, steaks, ribs, pizza. D • BAR • $$ 12899 CHERRY AVE., RAPID CITY, 231.322.4100

Walloon Lake Inn Exceptional culinary skills play out in a newly renovated, century-old pine-paneled lakeside lodge. D

• BAR • $$-$$$ 4178 WEST ST., WALLOON LAKE VILLAGE, 231.535.2999

CENTRAL LAKE/CHARLEVOIX/ EAST JORDAN/ELLSWORTH

Bridge Street Taproom Michigan craft brews, beerfriendly small plates, local charcuterie and bird’s-eye views of the yacht traffic on Round Lake. D L • BAR • $-$$ 202 BRIDGE ST.,

CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3466

The Cantina Tacos and tequila with indoor and outdoor seating. Live entertainment. LD • BAR • $-$$ 101 VAN PELT PLACE, CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3612

Charlevoix Pizza Company Scratch-made dough, fresh ingredients, golden crust, prepared daily. Plus, cheesy bread and wings. LD • $-$$ 311 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6300 East Park Tavern French-influenced American cuisine featuring prime rib, John Cross Whitefish and specialty cocktails at the Quay Restaurant and Terrace Bar in Charlevoix. LD • BAR • $$–$$$ 307 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7450

Esperance Gourmets will adore dishes prepared with dazzling technique in this specialty food and wine shop. D • $-$$$ 12853 U.S. 31 N., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.9300

BELLAIRE/BOYNE COUNTRY/WALLOON Boyne City Taproom Craft beer, wood-fired pizzas, wraps, burgers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 220 S. LAKE ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.459.4487 Boyne Mountain Resort Everett’s Restaurant & Lounge—Elegantly prepared fish and game dishes. BLD • BAR • $-$$$; Eriksen’s—Stunning view of the slopes and menu with Austrian and German touches. BLD • BAR • $-$$; Forty Acre Tavern— American pub fare with an extensive beer list. LD • BAR • $-$$ ONE BOYNE MOUNTAIN RD., BOYNE FALLS. 844.732.6875

Café Santé Beside Lake Charlevoix featuring bistro classics. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 1 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.8800 Corner Bistro French-inspired small plates, classic cocktails, wine, beer, Sunday brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 102 N. BRIDGE ST.,

BELLAIRE, 231.350.7344

Friske Orchards Cafe Cheerful roadside restaurant features farm-fresh breakfasts, homemade soups, salads, sandwiches, and a bakery. BL • $ 10743 U.S. 31 S., ATWOOD, 231.599.2604 Lake Street Pub American pub with outdoor patio and firepit, BYO mac ‘n’ cheese, cocktails, 26 beers on tap. LD • $

That French Place Authentic French creperie and ice cream shop. BLD • $ 212 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6037 Grey Gables Inn Graceful, intimate, Victorian atmosphere across from the harbor. D • BAR • $–$$$ 308 BELVEDERE, CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.9261

Lake Charlevoix Brewing Co. Craft brewery with good eats—grilled cheese sammies, tacos, quesadillas and beef jerky. LD • BAR • $-$$ 111 BRIDGE PARK DR., CHARLEVOIX,

231.437.3220

Pigs Eatin’ Ribs Real smokehouse with mouthwatering BBQ. Weekend breakfast. BLD • $-$$ 1418 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7447

Rowe Inn A unique fresh and from-scratch dining experience that has stood the test of time. D • BAR •$$$ 6303 E. JORDAN RD., ELLSWORTH, 231.588.7351

Scovie’s Gourmet Fresh salads, sandwiches, soups and baked goods star here. Dinner is bistro-style comfort food. LD • $-$$ 111 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.7827

202 S. LAKE ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.497.6031

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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10/6/20 9:22 AM

dining | restaurant guide Stafford’s Weathervane Local fish, seafood and regional cuisine in a Hobbit-style Earl Young stone structure with a massive fireplace overlooking the Pine River Channel. LD •

BAR • $$ 106 PINE RIVER LN., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.4311

Terry’s Place Small white-tablecloth eatery with a high tin ceiling. Try the perch or filet mignon. Mouthwatering. D • BAR • $$ 112 ANTRIM ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2799

Torch Lake Cafe Inventive, ultra-fresh cuisine with sharable options like the seafood platter with black garlic butter. Or devour an elevated fried bologna sandwich with pickled green tomato and house Dijon all on your own... BLD • BAR • $-$$$

4990 US31 N, CENTRAL LAKE, 231.599.1111

Villager Pub ’50s atmosphere, whitefish, Mexican, ribs, sandwiches and pizza. LD • BAR • $-$$ 427 BRIDGE ST., CHAR-

LEVOIX, 231.547.6925

ELK RAPIDS/GAYLORD/GRAYLING/MANCELONA Chef Charles’ Culinary Institute of America-trained Chef Charles Egeler makes gourmet pizzas, Ligurian-style takeout pesto, salads and sandwiches in a classic pizzeria. LD • $ 147

RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.8901

Cellar 152 Gourmet meals to take out or eat in a wine bar on the Elk River. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 152 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.9000

The Local All-American breakfast and lunch done better. BL • $$ 145 AMES ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.498.2190

Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen Every day’s Mardi Gras at this festive spot, where Cajun, Creole, seafood, sandwiches and big brunches accompany lively zydeco, jazz and blues. LD •

BAR • $-$$ 617 AMES, ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.0530

Siren Hall Sup on classics such as short ribs, steak frites, fresh-off-the-plane fruits de mer and homey sides like risotto “tots” and bleu cheese green beans. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 151 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231. 264.6062

Bennethum’s Northern Inn Fresh eclectic cuisine and updated regional favorites in a cozy Northwoods setting. Creative kids menu, Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 3917 SOUTH OLD

27, GAYLORD, 989.732.9288

Paddle Hard Brewing A fun-loving community hangout with artisan tacos, pizzas and brews. LD • BAR 227 E MICHIGAN AVE.,

GRAYLING, 989.745.6388

Spike’s Keg O’ Nails An Up North classic for burgers since 1933. LD • BAR $ 301 N. JAMES ST., GRAYLING, 989.348.7113 Tap Room 32 Twenty handles of Michigan craft beers and a menu of modern brew-friendly vittles like truffle fries and Korean beef tacos. D • $$ 141 NORTH COURT AVE., GAYLORD,

989.748.8552

The Old Depot 1900s train depot features homestyle burgers, steaks, chops, prime rib, seafood, pies and pastries. BLD • $$ 10826 M-32 E., JOHANNESBURG, 989.732.3115

Sugar Bowl Restaurant This vintage 1919 eatery serves whitefish, prime rib and Greek specialties. BLD • BAR • $$-$$$

216 W. MAIN ST., GAYLORD, 989.732.5524

Treetops Sylvan Resort Hunters Grille, & Sports Bar. Steak, burgers, ribs, pasta, signature pizza, chicken, fish and glutenfree selections. Featuring a selection of 100 Michigan craft beer, wines, fabulous martinis. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ WILKINSON RD., GAYLORD, 800.444.6711

Shirley’s Café An ultra-friendly, all-homemade oasis. BLD • $ 528 S. WILLIAMS ST., MANCELONA, 231.587.1210

LEELANAU COUNTY 45th Parallel Cafe Artsy spot with creative breakfast and lunch. BL • $-$$ 102 S. BROADWAY, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2233 Art’s Tavern Burgers, whitefish, steaks, Mexican and pizza. Smelt year-round at this legendary watering hole. BLD • BAR •

$-$$ 6487 W. WESTERN AVE., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.3754

Blu Exquisite regional cuisine from chef Randy Chamberlain in an intimate setting on Sleeping Bear Bay. D • BAR • $$$$ LAKE ST., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.2530

The Bluebird A mainstay for locals and boaters since 1927. Specialties: cinnamon rolls, whitefish, seafood, steak, pasta, creative ethnic feasts during the off-season. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR $$ 102 E. RIVER ST., LELAND, 231.256.9081 Boone Dock’s Log lodge with roomy deck, shrimp, burgers, steaks. LD • BAR • $$ 5858 MANITOU, GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.6444 Boone’s Prime Time Pub Seafood, steaks and burgers in a cozy cabin with a fireplace and a lively, friendly wait staff. LD •

GRAND TRAVERSE AREA

Broomstack Kitchen & Taphouse Great burgers, hand-cut fries, Sicilian-style pizza. Curling in the winter. LD • BAR • $ 172

Hofbrau Lively cedar-paneled former general store serves locals and Interlochen performers. Steak, seafood, bluegill and barbecue. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 2784 M-137, INTERLO-

BAR • $$ 102 ST. JOSEPH, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.6688

W BURDICKVILLE RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.8869

Dick’s Pour House Homemade soups and pies, sandwiches, pizza. LD • BAR • $-$$ 103 W. PHILIP ST., LAKE LEELANAU,

231.256.9912

Fig's Sandwiches, breakfasts, salads homemade with local ingredients. Great selection of vegetarian dishes. BL • $$ 104

INTERLOCHEN/KINGLSEY Bradley’s Pub & Grille Burgers, ribs, bluegill, brisket, trout and so much more. LD BAR • $-$$ 10586 US31, INTERLOCHEN, 231.275.6401

Dilbert’s Soups, sandwiches, omelets and other home cooking served in a homey atmosphere. BLD • $ 11303 U.S. 31, INTERLOCHEN, 231.275.3005

CHEN, 231.276.6979

Judson Market and Restaurant Newly re-branded market and restaurant offering house-made and local items. Glutenfree, vegetarian, full bar. BLD • BAR • $$ 211 E. MAIN ST., KINGSLEY,

231.263.8120

W. MAIN ST., LAKE LEELANAU, 231.256.7720

Fischer’s Happy Hour Tavern Rustic family-style roadhouse known for burgers, soups and raspberry pie in season.

OLD MISSION PENINSULA Jolly Pumpkin Wood-fired steaks, fresh fish, and artisan pizzas along with fresh ales crafted onsite. LD • BAR • $$ 13512 OLD

LD • BAR • $ 7144 N. M-22, BETWEEN NORTHPORT AND LELAND, 231.386.9923

PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4333

Funistrada Casual trattoria features Italian specialties such as veal saltimbocca and lasagna. D • BAR • $$ 4566 MCFARLANE,

Mission Table Farm-to-table restaurant serving seasonal, locally sourced fare and craft cocktails. D THURSDAY,

MAPLE CITY/BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3900

Hearth & Vine Café at Black Star Farms Farm-to-table menu that pairs with Black Star Farm’s wine, cider and craft cocktails. LD • BAR • $-$$ 10844 E REVOLD RD., SUTTONS BAY,

FRIDAY & SATURDAY 5PM–9PM • BAR • $-$$ 13512 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4222

Old Mission Tavern Prime rib, fresh fish, pastas and ethnic specials. LD • BAR • $$ 17015 CENTER RD., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.944.1297

231.223.7280

The Homestead Nonna’s Restaurant—Classically inspired, contemporary Italian cuisine. D • BAR $$-$$$ Beppi’s Sports Bar—Hand-tossed pizzas, paninis and salads. D • BAR • $-$$ 1

DOWNTOWN TRAVERSE CITY

WOODRIDGE RD. (OFF M-22), GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.5000

Hop Lot Brewing Co. Family-friendly microbrewery with four-season patio and games serving ribs, tacos, wings and a s’more kit to top it all off. LD • BAR • $-$$ 658 S WEST-BAY SHORE

DR., SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4445

Joe’s Friendly Tavern A rustic, comfy spot with bar food: whitefish, burgers, sandwiches, chili and soup. BLD • BAR • $$

11015 FRONT ST., EMPIRE, 231.326.5506

Knot Just a Bar Fish and burgers in a modern, beachy pub perched over pretty Omena Bay. LD • BAR • $-$$ 5019 BAY SHORE DR. (M-22), OMENA, 231.386.7393

La Bécasse Part the heavy velvet curtains and find a Provençal paradise. D • BAR • $$-$$$ C-675 & C-616, BURDICKVILLE,

231.334.3944

Friendly French bistro with a bay view, fireplace Amical and street patio. Prix fixe menu from 4–5:30pm. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 229 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.8888

NEW Benedict A family-friendly restaurant offering breakfast and lunch sandwiches, pastries, salads, soups and more. BL • $ 405 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.1000

Blue Tractor Cook Shop An Old Town favorite with fromscratch farmer food. and Michigan-crafted beers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 423 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 922.9515

Bubba’s Happening Front Street spot with battered mahi and chips, burgers, chimis, salads and tacos. BLD • BAR • $ 428 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.995.0570

The Cooks’ House A sweet little dollhouse of a spot, home to sustainable local cuisine with a French sensibility. LD • $$-$$$

Market 22 Deli, pizza, bakery. Eat in or take out. BLD • BAR •

115 WELLINGTON ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8700

$ 497 E HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6422

Cousin Jenny’s Cornish Pasties Homemade pasties. BLD • $

Martha’s Leelanau Table A European-style cafe with an emphasis on regional cuisine made from scratch, including some gluten free dishes and pastries. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 413 N. ST.

129 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7821

The Dish Cafe Eclectic menu with creative salads, quesadillas, enormous wraps, sandwiches and smoothies. LD • BAR • $

JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2344

108 S. UNION, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.2233

North Country Grill & Pub The Boone family keeps the classics (whitefish, prime rib, and yellow belly perch) while flirting with fondue, fried pickles, Phillys and Cubans. LD • BAR • $$

Firefly A dazzling small-plate menu, sushi, steaks and burgs at a sophisticated hotspot on the river. BL • $-$$ 310 S. CASS ST.,

420 ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.5000

Pegtown Station Pizza, subs, burgers, sandwiches, salads and breakfast—all done well. BL • $ 8654 S MAPLE CITY RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6692

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.1310

The Good Bowl Fresh, authentic Vietnamese eatery. Donates $1 for every bowl to the charity of your choice. LD • BAR $-$$

328 E FRONT ST.,TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.2662

The Green House Café Sandwiches, soups and salads. BL • $

Streetside Grille Seafood, burgers, pasta, flatbread pizzas, great beer list and more. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 111 N. ST. JOSEPH ST.,

115 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.7687

The Tribune Ice Cream and Eatery House-cured lox, breakfast burritos, meatloaf sammies and burgers share the menu.

$ 525 W. FRONT ST. AND 101 N. PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.7437

SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4199

BLD • $ 110 E. NAGONABA ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.1055

Grand Traverse Pie Co. Exceptional cream and fruit pies, coffee, baked goods, pot pies, chicken salad and quiche. BL • Little G's Fusion Cuisine Asian and Latin taqueria. LD • $ 531 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2713

Western Avenue Grill Birch-bark-rustic motif with canoes hung from the rafters. Pasta, seafood, whitefish and burgers. LD • BAR • $$ 6680 WESTERN AVE. (M-109), GLEN ARBOR, 231.

Mackinaw Brewing Co. Nautical-themed brewpub offers great house-smoked meats, several styles of beers, tasty burgers, fish and ribs. LD • BAR • $$ 161 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE

Wren Contemporary comfort food and a constantly changing menu to feature locally sourced ingredients. D • BAR • $$ 303

Mama Lu’s Modern Day Taco Shop Fresh tortillas with a mix of traditional and modern ingredients at this hip, fun taqueria and bar. LD • BAR • $$ 149 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

334.3362

N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.1175

CITY, 933.1100

231.943.2793

MyNorth.com

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local table | dining

Bake Like a BOULANGER

Enjoy Lakeside Getaways?

It’s blustery out, so we suggest warming up inside and taking your bread baking game up a notch with these golden, crusty French baguettes.

Imagine the luxury of living on private O’Rourke Lake in this gorgeous custom designed home. MLS 325784 • $665,000

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

Born and raised in Quimper, France, Chef Gildas Berrou of Gildas' Lake Street Bakery, formerly Boyne City Bakery, began his education as a boulanger at the age of 16, and he’s been baking scrumptious breads, crêpes and croissants ever since. He shares with us his secrets for crafting the perfect French baguette (just the thing for dipping in a homemade soup, adding to a charcuterie board or eating on its own).

FRENCH BAGUETTE BY GILDAS BERROU YIELD: 5 BAGUETTES INGREDIENTS 1

kilogram all-purpose flour, unbleached and unbromated (King Arthur brand “Sir Galahad” works best)

700

grams cold water

15–20

grams fresh yeast (7–10 grams dry yeast can be substituted)

grams salt

As this is a French recipe, we’re keeping it authentic and using the metric system. If you’re interested in converting the measurements, check out these charts: myrecipes.com/ how-to/metric-conversion-charts.

DIRECTIONS Mix flour, water and yeast in a mixing bowl until incorporated. Add salt and mix for 5 or 6 minutes on low speed (if using KitchenAid, mix 8 minutes on second speed). Let rise in bowl for 1 hour, covering bowl with damp flour-sack cloth if the air is dry. Remove dough from bowl, fold the ball of dough and return to bowl to rise for one more hour. Remove from bowl and cut into 350 gram loaves. Let loaves sit 20 minutes. Fold the loaves into a baguette shape, pressing from the middle out to the ends with your palm to stretch the loaf into shape. Tip: Some light “rolling” may help, but folding

and pressing is best, leaving the seam from the last fold on the bottom of the baguette. This technique helps to control where the dough splits, if it splits at all, during the baking process. Let baguettes rise 60–90 minutes.* Score with a bread blade/razor blade on top of each baguette (this, too, is part of controlling where the bread splits). Bake 20 minutes at 475°F until golden brown, and place on cooling rack.**

Lesa Jarski GRI, ABR-e-PRO Associate Broker

236. W. Main St. Gaylord, MI 49735 Cell: 989.858.0220 | jarskilesa@gmail.com

*Instead of letting rise at this stage, the baguettes can be placed in the refrigerator overnight to be baked in the morning—this will also improve the flavor and texture. **To achieve a “crunchy” outer layer, place a tray of water on the bottom rack of your oven to create an effect similar to a professional steam-injection oven. You may also want to mist the dough with a spray bottle of water at the beginning of the baking process.

PRO TIPS » Humidity is very important to your bread making and baking success. Watch the weather closely and adjust your methods accordingly. For example, you may not need to cover the dough with a damp cloth during the rising process in warm and humid weather, but will need to do so in the cold and dry winter months. Similarly, you may want to use closer to 15 grams of yeast in the summer and 20 grams in the winter. » Place extra baguettes in the freezer until needed. The sooner you freeze them, the fresher they are when taken out.

11/5

SOUTH AMERICAN FOOD & WINE TOUR Palette Bistro, Petoskey

800.836.0717 // MYNORTHTICKETS.COM

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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NOV '20

10/9/20 11:58 AM

dining | restaurant guide Minerva’s In the historic Park Place Hotel. Italian-American menu, elaborate Sun. brunch. BLD • BAR • $$ 300 E. STATE ST.,

Turtle Creek Casino & Hotel Bourbons 72—Seafood, prime rib and more. D • BAR • $-$$$ 7741 M-72, WILLIAMSBURG,

Hermann’s European Cafe Austrian-born master pastry chef Hermann Suhs creates international cuisine, seasonal specialties and divine desserts in an alpenhaus-style dining room. LD

Mode’s Bum Steer Classic steakhouse serves tender, wellaged charbroiled Black Angus steaks, seafood, ribs, soup, sandwiches. LD • BAR • $$ 125 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

TRAVERSE CITY–SOUTH

Herraduras Mexican Bar & Grill Authentic dishes like flautas, enchiladas and carnitas, plus shrimp chimis and steaks. LD

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5093

231.947.9832

North Peak Brewing Co. Wood-fired pizzas, seafood, sandwiches, microbrewed beer and a jam-packed bar scene. LD • BAR • $$ 400 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7325

Omelette Shoppe Vast array of omelets, homemade breads and pastries, soup and sandwiches. BLD • $ 124 CASS,

231.946.0912, AND 1209 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0590

Pangea’s Pizza Pub Craft pies, creative toppings. LD • BAR $-$$ 135 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.9800

Patisserie Amie French bakery and bistro. BAR • LD • $-$$$

237 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.9645

Poppycock’s Fresh seafood, pasta, unique sandwiches and salads, including vegetarian specialties and award-winning desserts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128. E. FRONT ST. TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7632

Rare Bird Brewery The likes of pork belly sliders, oysters on the half shell and great burgers served up alongside great beer. LD • BAR • $$ 229 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2053

Red Ginger Wrap yourself in fresh, sleek surroundings and the spicy-exotic flavors of Asia. D • BAR • $-$$$ 237 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1733

Scalawags Whitefish and Chips Ultra-fresh Great Lakes fish fry. LD • $ 303 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8700 Seven Monks Taproom Pair any of 46 beers on tap (including European Trappist ales) with your burger and lively sides like sweet potato frites and Scotch egg. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128 S.

231.534.8888

• BAR • $$ 214 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.9563

Boone’s Long Lake Inn Steaks, prime rib, seafood, daily specials. D • BAR • $$ 7208 SECOR RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.3991 Centre Street Café Fine and flavorful sammies. Saturday brunch 10:30am-6pm. Mon.-Fri. Open 10am-3pm. Closed Sunday. BL • $ 1125 CENTRE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5872 The Filling Station Microbrewery Thin-crusted wood-fired flatbreads and flavorful house brews revitalize the Depot. LD • BAR • $-$$ 642 RAILROAD PLACE, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8168

Right Brain Brewery Traverse City’s beloved brew pub now at a new location. BAR • $ 225 E. 16 ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1239

TRAVERSE CITY–WEST Rough-hewn eatery affords a great Apache Trout Grill bay view along with ribs, steak, pasta and salad. LD • BAR • $$

13671 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.7079

Harrington’s By the Bay Sunday brunch, seafood, steaks, burgers, sandwiches—with a bay view. BLD • BAR

• $-$$$ 13890 SOUTH WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.9393

PepeNero From-scratch southern Italian cuisine. LD • BAR • $$ 700 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1960

Red Spire Brunch House Classic American fare: breakfast and lunch all day. BL • $$ 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., ST. 30, TRAVERSE

• BAR • $ 1700 S. MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC, 231.775.4575

Lakeside Charlie’s A fine deck on Lake Mitchell. The hunt club–style restaurant features burgers, aged beef, fish and wild game. LD • BAR • $$ 301 S. LAKE MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.5332

Maggie’s Tavern Chili, burgers, steaks, wet burritos and kid selections are served up in a lively 19th-century setting. LD • BAR • $ 523 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.1810

FRANKFORT/ELBERTA/ONEKAMA/ MANISTEE/ARCADIA Birch & Maple Scratch cuisine prepared with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients. Friendly folks and fab craft cocktails. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 727 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0399 Bungalow Inn This former rustic cabin offers steak, ribs and fish-fry specials, perch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1100 28TH ST., MANISTEE,

231.723.8000

The Cabbage Shed Suds, and superb eats like seared scallops, rack of lamb and Ritz-crusted walleye. D • $-$$ 198 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9843

Dinghy’s Local favorite for 25 years with house-smoked meats including famous ribs, half-pound burger, Big BLT, award-winning Friday fish fry. LD • BAR • $$ 415 MAIN ST.,

CITY, 231.252.4648

FRANKFORT, 231.352.4702

The Fillmore House-crafted burgers, salads and wood-fired pizzas (p.m. only), all rich with Michigan ingredients. LD• BAR

UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.4807

Sleder’s Family Tavern Bar fare and entertainment under the original tin ceiling in one of Michigan’s oldest saloons. Kiss Randolph the moose before you leave. LD • BAR • $-$$ 717

Slate Prime cuts of beef and the freshest seafood with inspired toppings and sides. D • BAR • $$$ 250 E. FRONT ST., TRA-

The Silver Swan Ethnic fare and killer desserts. LD • $ 13692

Sorellina Authentic Italian pasta, zuppa and insalate. LD • BAR

Spanglish Authentic, homemade Mexican fare with occasional American accents. BLD • $ 1333 YELLOW DR.,

VERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

• $$-$$$ 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

Sugar 2 Salt Traverse City's hot brunch spot serves up what is in season. B • $-$$ 1371 GRAY DR., SUITE 300, TRAVERSE CITY,

231.409.8382

Taproot Cider House Brick oven pizza, great salads, inventive entrees paired with hard cider, microbrews, wine and spirits. LD • BAR • $-$$ 300 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2500 The Towne Plaza Eclectic American cuisine focusing on local ingredients. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 202 E. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9213

S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0203

VERSE CITY, 231.421.1165

TRAVERSE CITY–EAST Don’s Drive In A ’50s-style diner and drive-in with booths, burgers, fries, shakes, nostalgic jukebox. LD • $ 2030 U.S. 31 N.,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.1860

Grand Traverse Resort and Spa Aerie—16th-floor panorama of East Bay and regional fine dining. Music on weekends. D • BAR • $$-$$$ Sweetwater American Bistro—BLD • $$ U.S. 31 N., ACME, 231.534.6000

Randy’s Diner Soups, salads, sandwiches, all-you-can-eat cod. BLD • $ 1103 S. GARFIELD, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0789 Red Mesa Grill Colorful spot with a fireplace, flights of tequila and Latin American cuisine. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1544 US31,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.2773

Reflect Bistro and Lounge at Cambria Suites Hotel Breakfast, dinner and Happy Hour 4-7 p.m. daily. BD • BAR • $-$$$

255 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.778.9000

Smoke and Porter Public House An American smokehouse where farm-to-table and whole beast butchery meet the fire pits. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 1752 US31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5020

The Fusion Asian delights like fiery curries and lettuce wraps (plus creative cocktails) served in a serene atmosphere on Frankfort’s main drag. BLD • $–$$ 300 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT,

231.352.4114

Hotel Frankfort Fine dining served up at this in-town inn. BLD

TRAVERSE CITY. 231.943.1453

• $-$$$ 231 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.8090

Trattoria Stella Hip locally sourced fare with an Italian accent. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1200 W. ELEVENTH, TRAVERSE CITY,

L’chayim Delicatessen NY-style deli with sandwiches and bagels. BL • $-$$ 325 MAIN STREET, FRANKFORT, 231.352.5220 Mayfair Tavern Burgers, steaks, fish. LD • BAR $-$$ 515

231.929.8989

West End Tavern Craft cocktails, wood-roasted chicken and more elevated pub fare served up beside West Bay. LD • BAR • $$ 12719 SOUTH WEST BAYSHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2922

FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9136

North Channel Brewing Co. Watch the action at the drawbridge in a refined industrial atmosphere with meats smoked daily and excellent craft beers on tap. LD • BAR $-$$ 86 WASHINGTON ST, MANISTEE, 231.299.1020

231.929.090

Thirsty Fish Sports Grille Family-friendly sports bar with seafood, burgers, steaks, pasta and a 600-gallon fish tank. Live music on the patio. LD • BAR • $-$$ 221 E. STATE ST., TRA-

• $-$$ 318 RIVER ST, MANISTEE, 231.887.4121

BENZIE, MANISTEE, CADILLAC BENZONIA/BEULAH/HONOR/THOMPSONVILLE Crystal Mountain Resort Thistle Pub & Grille—Wood-paneled eatery, continental and Scottish specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$$ Wild Tomato Restaurant & Bar—Family Favorites. BLD • BAR • $-$$ M-115, THOMPSONVILLE, 231.946.3585 OR 231.378.2000

Geno’s Sports Bar and Grill Burgers, broasted chicken, pizza, soups, salads. LD • BAR • $ 14848 THOMPSON AVE., THOMPSONVILLE, 231.378.2554

Lucky Dog Bar and Grille Burgers, smoked wings, brats, sandwiches, craft beer, cocktails. LD • BAR • $-$$ 223 S. BENZIE

BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4499

Platte River Inn Classic dining in a casual atmosphere. Steaks, Italian, Mexican. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 10921 MAIN ST., HONOR,

Rock's Landing Eclectic menu combines local ingredients with ethnic influences. Intimate dining, feet from Crystal Lake. D • BAR $$ 1157 CRYSTAL DR., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0158 Stormcloud Brewing Brewing Belgian-inspired ales to pair with inventive, smart bistro fare. LD • BAR • $-$$ 303 MAIN ST.,

FRANKFORT, 231.352.0118

Taco 'Bout It Mexican Fusion Tavo and Tarrah Hernandez turned their food truck into a restaurant dream-come-true with ultra-fresh tacos on hand-pressed corn tortillas. LD • BAR

• $-$$ 344 RIVER ST, MANISTEE, 231.887.4441

Timbers Restaurant Family-owned restaurant with steaks, prime-rib pasta , whitefish, craft beer, regional wines. LD • BAR

• $-$$ 5535 M-115, CADILLAC, 231.775.6751

T.J.’s Pub Take a step down from the sloped sidewalk for panini, mex and pizza below the stately Ramsdell Inn. LD • BAR • $ 99 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.398.9174

231.227.1200

The Roadhouse Fresh Mex with a cool cantina atmosphere.

LD • BAR • $-$$ 1058 MICHIGAN AVE., (US 31), BENZONIA, 231.882.9631

Ursa Major Bistro Breakfast, burgers sandwiches. BLD • $-$$

245 S BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4250

CADILLAC Blue Heron Cafe Dazzling upscale sandwiches, soups and salads as well as from-scratch pastries. BL • $ 304 N. MITCHELL,

FIND MORE NORTHERN MICHIGAN RESTAURANTS! Go to MyNorth.com/Restaurants

CADILLAC, 231.775.5461

MyNorth.com

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10/6/20 9:22 AM

tea | drinks

A Cozy Cuppa That Feeds Your Soul CREAMY EARL GREY Both comforting and invigorating, this twist on a classic Earl Grey features black tea, bergamot essential oil, blue cornflowers, lavender, vanilla bean extract and calendula petals, the latter of which gives this tea its extra creamy mouthfeel. Like Light of Day’s other offerings, Angela’s Earl Grey is bursting with antioxidants and ingredients that have been known to help abate inflammation, digestive issues and infections.

HEARTWARMING CINNAMON Naturally caffeine-free, tisanes aren’t teas in the traditional sense—rather than tea leaves, they contain herbs, spices, fruit, seeds and other botanicals that create unique nutritional and medicinal profiles. This warming blend features rooibos, apple, orange, clove, cardamom and cinnamon, of course. The flavor is everything we love about fall in a cup, but you’ll also benefit from a healthy dose of vitamins, minerals and antioxidants—a combination that can help with digestion, inflammation and fighting off bacterial and fungal infections.

Stay healthy (and cozy) this fall with a locally grown cup of tea.

TIP: For a truly warming beverage, Angela recommends mixing her Heartwarming Cinnamon tisane into a hot toddy. We suggest keeping it local and picking up your liquor of choice (think whiskey, bourbon or scotch) from Mammoth Distilling, Traverse City Whiskey Co. or Grand Traverse Distillery.

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY ALLISON JARRELL

CEREMONIAL MATCHA

There are few better times to snuggle up with a steamy cup of tea than when cooler temps descend on Northern Michigan. As a registered nurse, Angela Macke, owner of Light of Day Organic Farm and Tea Shop in Traverse City, encourages tea drinking during the fall and winter months not just as a means to warm your spirit, but also as a way to help keep your mind and body healthy. Rooted in health and wellness, Angela doesn’t just mix her teas in-house—she actually grows her own organic tea plants in hoop houses on her Leelanau County farm, truly crafting her teas from the ground up. Light of Day offers a wide array of teas and tisanes for patrons to choose from. Here are a few that are sure to help brighten your days during these chilly months. For more information on Light of Day, visit lightofdayorganics.com.

Not only will the color remind you of the vibrant spring days to come—matcha is sure to boost your mood as it’s packed with antioxidants and plenty of nutrients (15 times more than regular green teas!). That’s because matcha tea leaves are ground into a fine powder that’s consumed in its entirety, versus sipping water steeped in leaves. This opaque, bright green tea can be served hot like a latte or cold—Angela loves it in a smoothie with coconut milk and pineapple juice. (Don’t forget to keep your matcha powder refrigerated.)

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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10/6/20 9:22 AM

love of the land

The Art of Conservation A grassroots nonprofit aims to help visitors, vacationers and locals enjoy and understand the Torch Lake watershed. BY ALLISON JARRELL + TORCH CONSERVATION CENTER | PHOTO BY TODD ZAWISTOWSKI

TRUE BLUE Gallery in Alden is celebrating Torch Lake’s heritage, delicate ecosystem and surrounding watershed by promoting preservation through the arts. Selling local art “for the sake of the lake,” the gallery is managed by the Torch Conservation Center, a nonprofit organization whose goal is to educate individuals about how to best care for Torch Lake. The center’s driving principle is “our choices matter,” and visitors can expect to walk away with a greater appreciation of that mantra after experiencing the gallery’s watershed-inspired art, jewelry and literature displays. TRUE BLUE’s exhibits delve into the science of conservation, so you won’t just find information about the best swimming spots, beaches, hiking, paddling and boating 48

on Torch—you’ll also learn about threats to the lake and to humans, such as swimmer’s itch and algal blooms (these blooms, while not toxic, alter the color and quality of the lake). The center aims to equip visitors and homeowners with information on lawn care, septic systems and tips for implementing lake-friendly practices in order to address these sensitive environmental issues. Stop in to TRUE BLUE Gallery (9046b Helena Rd., Alden) to see the always-changing local art for sale and to learn more about how to protect one of the most beautiful lakes in the world. For more information about Torch Conservation Center’s work, visit conservetorch.org or facebook.com/conservetorch.

MyNorth.com

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10/6/20 9:22 AM

Waterfront Real Estate

This is our neighborhood.

REAL ESTATE 231.582.1700

PatOBrien.com

128 Water Street., Boyne City, MI 49712

1120 TVM COVER.indd 3

For the timeless home aficionado, this is a gorgeous home you don’t want to miss. Because even in the days of “yore”, home designers knew what was important to a family. The stone and wood exterior complement each other to give an appearance of a quaint cottage/home that draws you in. Immaculately maintained from top to bottom, the interior has hardwood floors with beautifully trimmed windows and plaster finished walls. The main-floor master has vaulted ceilings and large windows facing out to Lake Charlevoix. The master bathroom has all of the amenities one would hope for, including a claw-foot tub. A new kitchen that completely matches the rest of the home, including plenty of cupboard space and its own pantry. A great outdoor dining area where most summer dinner meals would be served sits beside the kitchen. Two large bedrooms, a bathroom, and a living area adorn the second level. A charming guest house sits atop the hill behind the main house that includes a sleeping area, stylish bathroom, and a nice porch overlooking the water. Now for the limitless and beautifully manicured gardens! The colors throughout the summer are amazing and obviously the pride of the homeowners. Don’t be intimidated, just bring a green thumb. All this sits on 5 acres with 277’ of Lake Charlevoix waterfront.

$1,125,000

MLS 463085

10/6/20 8:43 AM

TORCH LAKE

WALLOON LAKE

LAKE CHARLEVOIX

BAY HARBOR

BURT LAKE

A Market Unrivaled THE MOMENT TO LIST IS NOW.

FOR THE TENTH YEAR IN A ROW, KIDD & LEAVY REAL ESTATE IS NORTHERN MICHIGANâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S #1 REAL ESTATE COMPANY. *

Thinking of selling? Call me! OWNER/ ASSOC. BROKER

*ALL STATISTICS FROM NMMLS

231-838-2700 wallykidd.com 325 EAST LAKE STREET, PETOSKEY, MI 49770

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10/6/20 8:43 AM

DO N A TE A N D V O L U NTEER I N THE PLA CE WE LOV E!

2020

NORTHERN MICHIGAN

A supplement to

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When the world changes, we’re here to help We are proud to support TART Trails! Supporting your community is important to you — and to us. That’s why we’re committed to helping you make a difference. The Simonton-Walsh-Hanosek-Mangum Wealth Management Group Rick Simonton, CFP®, CIMA®, CPWA®, RMA® Senior Vice President Wealth Management Advisor Portfolio Manager 231.922.6825 • richard_simonton@ml.com Merrill Lynch Wealth Management 333 West Grandview Parkway Suite 300 Traverse City, MI 49684 fa.ml.com/theswhmgrouptc

Merrill Lynch, Pierce, Fenner & Smith Incorporated (also referred to as “MLPF&S” or “Merrill”) makes available certain investment products sponsored, managed, distributed or provided by companies that are affiliates of Bank of America Corporation (“BofA Corp.”). MLPF&S is a registered broker-dealer, registered investment adviser, Member SIPC and a wholly owned subsidiary of BofA Corp. Investment products:

Are Not FDIC Insured Are Not Bank Guaranteed

May Lose Value

The Bull Symbol is a registered trademark of Bank of America Corporation. Certified Financial Planner Board of Standards Inc. owns the certification marks CFP® and CERTIFIED FINANCIAL PLANNER™ in the U.S. Investments & Wealth Institute™ (The Institute) is the owner of the certification marks CIMA® and CPWA®. RMA® is a registered service mark of the Investment Management Consultants Association dba Investments & Wealth Institute. © 2020 Bank of America Corporation. All rights reserved. MAP3088376 | AD-09-20-0401 | 472575PM-0520 | 09/2020

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

NORTHERN MICHIGAN

A MyNorth Media Publication PRESIDENT/EDITOR IN CHIEF

Deborah Wyatt Fellows

CHIEF OPERATIONS OFFICER

Michael Wnek

MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL AND CONTENT EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR PROOFREADERS REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS GRAPHIC DESIGNER

EDITOR’S NOTE

SAVING OUR SOLACE | Grand Traverse Regional Land Conservancy’s preservation work ramps up in the face of development and increased outdoor recreation.

FEEDING A NEED | Goodwill Northern Michigan’s food rescue program ensures the region’s hungry and homeless have access to food.

TEACH YOUR CHILDREN WELL | Michigan Association for the Education of Young Children fights for more resources and better pay for early-childhood educators.

BUILDING COMMUNITY | Groundwork Center for Resilient Communities brings partners together, as they did with the recent launch of the Local Food Relief Fund.

A PATH FORWARD | Eagle Village provides foster kids therapy, education, job training and a loving, stable home.

Kara Jarvis

HOPE AND HEALING | Child & Family Services of Northwestern Michigan supports foster kids, foster parents and biological parents.

Emily Oakes

BEYOND BOOKS | In the midst of COVID-19, Traverse Area District Library becomes an essential service to community members.

COMFORT AND JOY | Grand Traverse Area Society of St. Vincent de Paul promotes employment, prevents homelessness and provides warmth.

MAKING CONNECTIONS | With nine projects underway, Traverse Area Recreation and Transportation Trails provides and promotes a trail network throughout the Grand Traverse region.

NEIGHBORS HELPING NEIGHBORS | Benzie Area Christian Neighbors helps people who are struggling work toward selfsufficiency by providing healthy food, clothing, education, social support and financial assistance.

INTERVENING FOR A CHILD | Serving as a response center for allegations of child abuse, Traverse Bay Children’s Advocacy Center shields children of abuse from the trauma of the process.

Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson Allison Jarrell Elizabeth Aseritis, Caroline Dahlquist Kim Schneider, Tim Tebeau, Andrew VanDrie Gail Snable Theresa Burau-Baehr Rachel Watson Claire Houser

WEB DIRECTOR

Jen Berigan

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Julie Parker

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

MARKETING DIRECTOR MARKETING COORDINATOR MYNORTH TICKETS CUSTOMER SUCCESS SPECIALIST OFFICE MANAGER BOOKKEEPER

Ann Gatrell Sarah Haase Chelsea Harland Meg Lau Erin Lutke

Libby Stallman Kim Stewart

A Supplement to

Editorial & Advertising Offices 125 Park Street, Suite 155 Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231.941.8174 | Fax: 231.941.8391 Subscriber Services Visit MyNorth.com/sub to change your address or to review your account. Reprints Reprints available. Please call 231.941.8174. Please e-mail other subscription inquiries to info@mynorth.com or call 800.785.8632 between 10 a.m. and 8 p.m. EST.