WARM UP TO WINTER IN PURE LUDINGTON
Winter is the perfect time to whisk yourself away to the enchanting beauty of Pure Ludington. Whether you're an avid winter adventurer seeking the thrill of snow-covered trails or simply yearning for a rejuvenating escape filled with delectable food and craft beer, you'll find your perfect haven here.
Don't miss the exhilarating New Year's Eve Ball Drop in downtown Ludington or the delightful Pure Ludington Brrrewfest! Make your plans today to embrace the endless wonders of a Pure Ludington winter!
Vacation!
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5 | PETOSKEY & MACKINAC STRAITS
Shop sweet small towns, spend a weekend on Mackinac Island, ski some of the North’s best slopes and head across the Mackinac Bridge.
14 | TRAVERSE CITY
Relax in a sauna, ski at night, visit a snow-capped lighthouse and end the day with friends at cozy downtown eateries.
27 | CHARLEVOIX & CHAIN OF LAKES
Try dogsledding, winter rafting or a moonlit snowshoe and know that warm, decadent crêpes are never too far away.
30 | BENZIE, MANISTEE & CADILLAC
Explore snowy bike trails, experience the thrill of ice fishing, paddle a serene river and warm up at local taverns and breweries.
39 | LEELANAU
Sled the dunes, snowshoe to a winery, take a spin on outdoor ice rinks and hang with locals at trivia nights and euchre tourneys.
45 | GAYLORD & GRAYLING
Go skiing in Northern Michigan’s snowbelt, snowmobile an endless trail network, snowshoe a wild forest and take the kiddos on a sleigh ride.
BEST PLACES TO GO IN WINTER: SAULT STE. MARIE, CANADA
Your bucket-list guide to 7 snowy adventures in the heart of the North.
BY CARA MCDONALD
THElast few winters at the tip of the mitten weren’t the best for snow-lovers. But just across the bridge in Canada’s Algoma District exists a snowy paradise, where three Great Lakes converge to dump powder all winter long.
And with a super favorable exchange rate, American travelers can access lift tickets, trail passes, lodging, rentals and tall, cold sips of local lager for what essentially amounts to a sweet discount just for crossing the bridge.
Here, with Sault Ste. Marie, CA, as your base camp, awaits a region where they do winter right. From ungroomed steeps and endless miles of backcountry to exuberant winter fests and quirky events, our Canadian neighbors don’t just endure snow—they revel in it. Here’s how.
1
SKI THE STEEP AND DEEP.
Searchmont Resort claims a 1,650-foot elevation and 750-foot vertical drop, about 300 feet higher than resorts in northern lower Michigan, making for some of the longest runs in the region. Over the last 10 years, Searchmont, which nestles in a snowbelt just northwest of Sault Ste. Marie, has averaged 132 inches annual real snow from lake-effect squalls. The resort’s new owners have added amenities and piled on capital improvements, and the 100-acre resort is now home to 26 runs, six lifts (including two new Skytrac triple chairs), a ski school, tuning shop, retail shop and bustling restaurant and bar. Wrap up your day with après ski poutine and drinks in the lodge; make it an overnight in their newly renovated slopeside suites, including accessible options for skiers of all abilities. searchmont.com
2
DIP YOUR (FROZEN) TOE IN.
In the last three years, Sault Ste. Marie has added more than 60k of trail—including 20k of newly built worldclass trail. Which in winter means simply this: somebody should really hold a fest for that. And behold! This year’s inaugural Frozen Toe race. Although “trail fest”–style events have run in years past during the winter, this inaugural Fat Bike annual event will feature 10k, 25k and 50k races for cyclists of all levels of cold-tolerance and determination.
3
SKI, BIKE, RUN, BEER.
The Beaver Freezer Marathon is no neatly groomed loop for the lycra set—it challenges competitors to ski, run or fat bike through pristine Canadian wilderness (don’t worry—specialized rescue crews and aid stations line the course). Racers follow a marked path of 5k, 14k, 24k or 42k distances through lakes, streams and trails along traditional hunting and fishing routes used by the Garden River and Batchewana First Nations and Métis people. Feeling up to the challenge? Race day is March 8, 2025. beaverfreezer.com
4 GET SOME PEACE.
After a day of bracing cold and snowy fun, opt for a delightfully sophisticated après ski experience at Peace Restaurant: Order up oysters with sake-yuzu mignonette alongside a burnt-orange cinnamon old fashioned (made with local maple syrup). The chic-but-friendly restaurant and oyster bar rounds out their Asian-fusion menu with delish bites like crispy sushi rolls, Korean Bolognese and kimchi fried rice. peacerestaurant.ca
photos courtesy of Tourism
Sault Ste. Marie
5 TAKE TO THE TRAILS.
Winter sports–lovers, rejoice: The Algoma Highlands district around Soo Canada is one of the premier Nordic skiing destinations in North America, tucked in a micro-climate heaven sent for skiers. (And snowshoers. And fat bikers.)
At Stokely Creek Lodge, one of North America’s premier Nordic resorts, skiers come for the friendly staff and skier camaraderie as well as the reliably plentiful Lake Superior snow. Explore 100k of trails groomed for skate and classic, winding through a landscape dotted with lakes, granite bluffs and ice
caves. The lodge is all-inclusive, with meals and a simple but cozy vibe; on-site log cabin rentals are also available.
For more world-class skiing just minutes from the Soo, head to the 50k-plus groomed trails of Hiawatha Highlands, a community winter playground. Newer skiers will love Kinsmen trail, a 2k loop groomed for skate, classic and fat biking, and lit for night skiing. There’s a complete rental fleet available, including pulk sleds and fat bikes. Hiawatha Highlands also has dedicated fat bike–grooming as well as 9k of singletrack just for cyclists. stokelycreek.com;hiawathahighlands.com
6
DO THE BON SOO.
There are plenty of events you don’t want to miss during Bon Soo, the kitschy, multi-day, home-grown community fest of music, events, food, fireworks and cold-weather hijinks that has a decades-long history of keeping locals psyched about winter. For families, check out the frozen snow slides and maple taffy-making demonstrations. For the daring, the Polar Rush Urban Obstacle has quickly become THE to-do event in winter, with multiple obstacles over a rugged 5k trail, or commit to the Polar
Plunge, where hundreds of participants brave the frigid ice of the St. Mary’s river, dunking themselves for bragging rights before warming up with live music, food, a bar and warming saunas. Take home a souvenir six-pack of Polar Plunge Beer to honor your bravery. bonsoo.on.ca
7
SNUGGLE UP IN AN IGLOO.
After a long day of snowy play, hunker down at the center of your own real-life snow globe—only in this version, the snow swirls on the outside. At Northern Superior Brewing Co. winter guests gather in bubble-tent igloos (complete with heaters) and watch the flakes fly. Order up their Northern Superior, a classic Canadian lager, or for a heartier pint try the Northern 11 p.m., a German black lager with notes of chocolate and coffee. northernsuperior.org
Saulttourism.com is the place to start planning your trip now.
insider’s list the up north
Start your day with cinnamon rolls, end with a glass of wine by a roaring fire. This region is full of winter delights.
by Carly Simpson
Tillie’s Tafel legendary cinnamon rolls in Petoskey are the pastry version of a warm hug—bright with cinnamon, heavy on the cream cheese frosting, all-around sweet and nostalgic.
Snowy weekends at Pond Hill Farm in Harbor Springs are full of wonder: Zoom down the sledding hill, cruise groomed trails on fat bikes and warm up afterward with mulled wine.
Non-skiers in the know head to Boyne Mountain for wintertime zip lining, horseback riding, tubing and vacation rentals with private hot tubs.
Spend a weekend in a snow globe: A handful of lodging and dining spots remain open year-round on Mackinac Island. Tip: Pack your snowshoes and your dancing shoes for karaoke night at Kingston Kitchen.
The best time to view the northern lights is now, between October and April. But even without the aurora, winter’s dark skies are pure magic at Headlands International Dark Sky Park
The community of Walloon Lake is like a Hallmark movie set. There’s ice skating in the park, an annual Winterfest each February and a roaring fire waits for you at Hotel Walloon.
shop the gaslight district
This historic hub in downtown Petoskey is home to dozens of boutiques and eateries offering untold treasures under the glow of twinkling lights.
by Carly Simpson
GALLERY HOP
The work of Petoskey-based artist Kevin Barton is instantly recognizable—heavily textured, brightly colored paintings inspired by the North. His pieces showcase beloved destinations in Charlevoix, Harbor Springs, Leelanau, Mackinac Island, Petoskey and Traverse City, from downtown scenes to local farms and shops. Contact Barton to schedule an appointment at his art loft on Lake Street. More must-visits: Somebody’s Gallery, NorthGoods, Ward & Eis Gallery
SCORE THE PERFECT GIFT
As flurries fly, you’ll find Jennifer Shorter bustling amid the cheerfully curated shelves at Grandpa Shorter’s Gifts. The third-generation proprietor, who also owns J.W. Shorter & Son Mercantile and The Katydid, has been walking over the same hardwood floors since she was a little girl helping her grandparents, Carl and Ruth, who opened the business in 1946. At Grandpa Shorter’s you’ll find goodies for all ages, from Pendleton wool shirts and Petoskey stone earrings to science kits for kids. More must-visits: The Rocking Horse Toy Company, McLean & Eakin Booksellers, August Antiques & Home Décor
RAISE A GLASS
We love Beards Brewery for its outdoor fire pits, views of Little Traverse Bay and 24 taps. Order poutine to share and a pint of MI Rattlers lager, an in-pub-only limited release made with all Michigan ingredients. Then check out the brewery’s intimate Root Cellar, a community beer lounge where you can spin some vinyl, play a board game and watch the crew brew while enjoying a pint. More must-visits: Malted Vinyl, Pour Kitchen & Bar, High Five Spirits
BAY HARBOR
sweet small towns
Welcome to the towns (and one island!) of the Petoskey-Mackinac Straits region.
by Carly Simpson
Great Lakes Center for the Arts, Mammoth Distilling and Maple + Batter
(order the breakfast charcuterie board and sweet potato maple hash), keep Bay Harbor hopping all year round. Book a room at the Inn at Bay Harbor for snow-covered Lake Michigan vistas, an outdoor hot tub that’s even cozier when it snows and easy access to the Petoskey wine trail.
BOYNE COUNTRY
This gorgeous tapestry of recreation is woven from Boyne City, Walloon Lake Village, Boyne Resorts and shorelines on both Lake Charlevoix and Walloon Lake. Find fabulous craft beer pubs, boutiques and an abundance of ski runs. Must dos: Bouquet workshops at Sweetwater Floral; pre-Prohibition era cocktails with a modern twist at Muskrat Distilling; a weekend stay at Boyne Mountain’s renovated Chalet Edelweiss, a 35-room luxe retreat with an onsite Nordic sauna, igloo rentals and a nosh box upon arrival. ›
Mackinac Island
CHEBOYGAN
In this city blessed with Lake Huron and Cheboygan River frontage, entertainment ranges from the restored Victorian-era Cheboygan Opera House to the intimate and swanky Lark Theater & Lounge for live music and martinis. Cheboygan Brewing Co. has the craft beer scene covered, and diners snug up at The Queens Head Wine Pub to share bites of bread pudding and baked Brie.
CROSS VILLAGE & GOOD HART
These charming outposts on the scenic M-119 Tunnel of Trees (most famous in fall, but equally pretty on a frosty morning) quiet down during winter. In Good Hart, find the Good Hart General Store—a must-stop for pot pies, cookies and gifts galore. Farther north, in Cross Village, pop into Three Pines Studio to browse beautiful works by Northern Michigan artists and say hello to gallery dog Carina.
HARBOR SPRINGS
This Currier and Ives-esque downtown is sweet as can be. Spend an afternoon browsing boutiques and galleries: For something extra special, Elizabeth Blair Fine Pearls; one-of-a-kind artwork at Hanni Gallery and Tvedten Fine Art (call for an appointment); cookies to write home about from Tom’s Mom’s. Harbor Springs is also the launching point for the iconic M-119 Tunnel of Trees. At its base, find the meticulously restored mid-century hotel, Otis.
MACKINAC ISLAND
The most popular tourist destination in the Great Lakes becomes a haveit-to-yourself secret snow-sports destination come winter. Snowmobiles, fat bikes, XC skis, snowshoes and you! The ferry runs as long as there isn’t ice in the harbor (when there’s ice, catch a flight with Fresh Air Aviation). Lodging and dining are limited, but you’ll find everything you need.
MACKINAW CITY
How could you not love a city tucked at the base of the Mackinac Bridge and at the edge of the storied Straits of Mackinac? It’s also the city where, when the conditions are just right, you can see a surreal winter phenomenon: blue ice. See photos: link.mynorth.com/blueice
PETOSKEY
For a serene adventure, snowshoe the 1.5-mile pathway at Bear River Valley Recreation Area. Meander the historic Gaslight District where Victorian-era storefronts are packed with fabulous shops, galleries, boutiques and eateries—Symons General Store is a favorite for gourmet sandwiches to-go. Plan to spend an afternoon exploring the Petoskey Wine Region.
ST. IGNACE
Learn about the Mackinac Bridge (while you’re looking at it!) at Bridge View Park, take the historical walking tour along the Lake Huron Boardwalk to Wawatam Lighthouse, get lunch at Lehto’s Pasties, explore 100 miles of groomed snowmobile trails, look for wildlife on the Sand Dunes Cross-Country Ski Trail, order planked whitefish for dinner at the Village Inn—the fun is just getting started.
Discover more things to do in each of these northern towns: link.mynorth.com/towns
Harbor Springs
The Back Forty Biergarten, Boyne Mountain
how we winter
Get outside and play!
by Carly Simpson
Families gather at the Petoskey Winter Sports Park where generations of locals have formed a deep love for the snowy season. True to its name, the park has a sledding hill, outdoor ice skating and a separate hockey rink. Entry is free, and you’ll also find a warming hut with restrooms, concessions, a fireplace, board games and skate rentals. We’d spend the morning here, then head downtown for soup, sandwiches and hot cocoa at Roast & Toast. (The café has a collection of 140 soup recipes! Order a soup flight so you can try a few.) Plan your trip during Petoskey’s Winter Wonderland Weekend (Feb. 14–16) for ice-carving demonstrations, a scavenger hunt and more downtown fun.
For the winter speed demon, it doesn’t get any better than downhill skiing (and plenty of fresh powder) at Nub’s Nob in Harbor Springs. A family-owned ski area in operation since the late 1950s, the resort boasts a whopping 53 runs and more than 400 feet in vertical drop—there’s even a free practice area for beginners. Cap off your day in front of the fire at one of the two onsite lodges with grab-and-go and pub dining options. Nubs Nob is surrounded by condos and cabins for rent, some of which have ski-in access— all you have to do is bring your gear.
Hit the slopes … without the skis. If skiing black diamonds isn’t in your future, Sno-Go bikes are a great way to get on the mountain for a scenic morning ride or a day of shredding. Combining bicycle handlebars with new skiing technology, these ski bikes, available at both Boyne Mountain and The Highlands, are super stable and work in all types of snow conditions. The best part? Beginners are welcome—most people pick it up within the first few runs. Every first-time renter receives an introductory lesson to get you rollin’.
Giddy up! Experiencing Boyne Mountain’s trail system via horseback is a must-do year-round, but it’s especially magical when the grounds are blanketed in snow. Experienced guides will lead you along a serene trail during an hour-long ride that begins and ends at the resort’s stable. For younger riders, a 15-minute pony ride is a fun option, too.
Spend a few hours off the beaten path at Goodhart Farms Nature Preserve. The 696-acre property offers 7.5 miles of marked trails (5.5 are groomed in winter) ideal for hiking, horseback riding, snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. You’ll traverse snowy meadows, hayfields, hardwood forests, old orchards and pine plantations with icy Lake Michigan views in between. The preserve is located just east of Good Hart and its little red general store (open year-round) alongside the Tunnel of Trees. Stop here for a famous pot pie and maple snickerdoodle cookie.
Rally up, sports fans! In a state where hockey is on par with oxygen, the annual Labatt Blue UP Pond Hockey Championship is a can’t-miss event when visiting St. Ignace. Every year, the event draws upward of 200 teams for the chance to play on Lake Huron ice that’s 1.5-feet thick (weather permitting). When your nose is properly frozen, head into one of the onsite tents for food, beverages and live music. Entry is free; don’t forget your foam finger.
PHOTO COURTESY OF BOYNE MOUNTAIN
insider’s list the up north
From laidback bars where you can show off your trivia skills to the best deep-dish pizza in town, here’s your checklist for winter fun in the Grand Traverse region.
by Carly Simpson and Allison Jarrell Acosta
Take part in a Nordic tradition at Mt. Holiday’s new Hearth Sauna, where guests can enjoy hot and cold exposure in a wood-fired red cedar sauna and filtered ice baths.
Gather at Seven Hills community center on Old Mission Peninsula, home to Old Mission Distilling, farm-to-table café Mission Proper and art gallery Tinker Studio.
Head to alley hotspot Charles & Reid for delish Detroit-style ‘za, lacy caramelized edges and all. Get the soup and a slice lunch special; we love the fire-roasted tomato bisque.
Catch performances at Interlochen Center for the Arts. In February, the free, family-friendly Winterlochen festival has sledding, s’mores, arts activities and a parade.
Settle in with a bourbon flight at Bourbons 72 in Turtle Creek Casino & Resort. Pair it with slow-roasted prime rib and a decadent slice of cheesecake.
‘Tis the season of trivia. Show off your knowledge at Lil Bo, Rare Bird Brewpub, Stone Hound Brewing Co., Kilkenny’s, The Coin Slot, MiddleCoast Brewing Company and Incredible Mo’s.
sweet small towns
From Old Mission Peninsula to Interlochen, the Grand Traverse region is rich with outdoor recreation and cozy dining nooks.
by Carly Simpson
Grand Traverse Commons
ACME & WILLIAMSBURG
Williamsburg boasts plenty of snowy destinations for nature lovers, like Maple Bay Natural Area to the north and Sand Lakes Quiet Area to the south. To the west, the bayside town of Acme is home to glistening million-dollar views. Walk the beach along the Acme Shoreline at Bayside Park. Then stop by Osorio Tacos y Salsas (order the namesake items) and enjoy a brew with an icy view at Stone Hound Brewing Company, or dine at Aerie Restaurant & Lounge, perched atop the Grand Traverse Resort and Spa, for a stunning winter sunset.
FIFE LAKE
Take a seat at the Loon’s Nest for breakfast classics: buttermilk pancakes, hash brown skillets, sausage gravy. Fife Lake Inn has you covered for comfort eats (think smokehouse mac ’n’ cheese, poutine, pizza) in a comfy log cabin atmosphere. The 21-mile Fife Lake Loop (not groomed) is popular for hiking, snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. The annual Ice Fishing Derby and Shanty Décor Contest in February is always a good time.
INTERLOCHEN
Interlochen is celebrated for its world-class art institution, Interlochen Center for the Arts, which offers year-round performances. But this artistic haven also boasts endless natural beauty—from Lake Dubonnet and scenic Lost Lake Pathway, to Interlochen State Park, with its miles of pristine beach sandwiched between popular ice fishing holes Green Lake and Duck Lake (smelt and pike are favorites of winter anglers). Head to Bud’s for breakfast and Hofbrau for dinner, drinks and live music.
KINGSLEY
Surrounded by lush forests and bucolic countryside, this family-friendly community is home to a sweet downtown anchored by Kingsley Local Brewing Company and the reopened Kingsley Inn, featuring a full bar and lunch and dinner service.
OLD MISSION PENINSULA
Take a drive up this pleasant peninsula and you’ll be treated to rolling hills of sleeping cherry orchards and vineyards tucked in for winter. Grab a bite at Mission Proper or Jolly Pumpkin on your way up to Mission Point Lighthouse. Then explore the Old Mission Peninsula Wine Trail, where you’ll find 10 award-winning wineries that are giving the West Coast a run for its money. In between all the sipping, pull out your snowshoes at Pyatt Lake (1.2 trail miles) or Pelizzari Natural Area (3.2 miles).
Discover more things to do in each of these northern towns: link.mynorth.com/towns
PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER
tc’s enchanted enclaves
THE VILLAGE AT GRAND TRAVERSE COMMONS
Traverse City’s version of Central Park is tucked within 480 acres of preserved parkland just west of downtown. The buildings at the heart of this rolling property are collectively called The Commons (830 Cottageview Drive). Once home to a 19th-century state psychiatric hospital, the Italianate-style Victorian buildings have been reclaimed and turned into upscale restaurants, boutiques and galleries.
Must-Do: The Mercato in Building 50 where you’ll find an eclectic shopping adventure—High Five Threads, Moonstruck Gardens, Sanctuary Goods, The Refillery—and not one, but two top-flight Italian restaurants, PepeNero and Trattoria Stella. Follow your nose to Red Spire Brunch House. Elsewhere on The Commons’ grounds, linger over local wine and cider at Left Foot Charley, freshly roasted coffee (get the mocha) at Higher Grounds and craft beer at Earthen Ales.
WEST FRONT STREET
The industrially handsome North Peak Brewing Company with its classic pub food, great beer and neighborhood vibe is the flagship of West Front. But don’t stop there.
Must-Do: The Cheese Lady TC (fresh-cut slabs of the world’s best cheeses); Mary’s Kitchen Port, where locals have been carrying out their signature sammie, The Gobbler, for decades; Modern Bird, an intimate date-night restaurant; hip tacos at Barrio; TC’s iconic Italian deli, Folgarelli’s; a paper bag filled with fries and a burger at Slabtown Burgers; beer and burritos at Loco Boys Brewing Company.
EAST FRONT STREET
When The Little Fleet, a seasonal food truck lot and year-round bar opened on the corner of Wellington some years back, East Front Street found the glue to hold its groove together.
While the lights of downtown Traverse City’s Front Street (and bisecting Cass and Union streets) dazzle, don’t stop there. Browsing the city’s outlying blocks yields untold shopping and dining pleasures.
by Elizabeth Edwards
Must-Do: Paesano’s, where they’ve been quelling our pizza craving since 1981; magical sandwiches at the Chubby Unicorn; Vietnamese-American comfort food at The Good Bowl; one-of-a-kind finds at consignment shop Penny Lane; a barslash-pinball arcade with an impressive beer selection at The Coin Slot. And the grand finale, on Wellington Street in an innocuous old house, find one of the greatest restaurants in the North, The Cooks’ House.
WAREHOUSE DISTRICT
Anchored by the edgy Warehouse MRKT and Hotel Indigo, this downtown district sits between West Front Street and Grandview Parkway on Garland Street.
Must-Do: Wander Warehouse MRKT’s boutiques—Bohmey Beauty, Darling Botanical, The Refillery, Evil Queen and Relish; catch coffee and a bite at Hexenbelle or Water Bearer
Coffee, then sign on to paint pottery at Handz on Art. Your beer is waiting next door at The Workshop Brewing Company.
EIGHTH STREET
This east-west route that parallels Front Street recently received a fabulous makeover that elevates it from its former back-40 feel. The shops and eateries here are fresh and creative.
Must-Do: Have a retro-diner breakfast at Rounds. Continue the theme at EB2 Vintage, home to upcycled furniture and more; find fine wine at Lake District Wine Co.; order up a cold craft beer at Silver Spruce; lunch like a local at Raduno; catch a show at The Alluvion in Commongrounds Cooperative. End your Eighth Street odyssey on Lake Street—a kind of back alley to the main route—where neighbors Rare Bird Brewpub and The Parlor serve up vacation-making brews, cocktails and food.
Evil Queen, Warehouse District
how we winter
Get outside and play!
by Carly Simpson and Allison Jarrell Acosta
Find peace along the region’s quiet coastline. Head east of Traverse City, and you’ll come across Acme Bayside Park. This discreet gem has more than 900 feet of waterfront that, under a fresh blanket of snow, transforms into a serene winter wonderland. Soak in the scene, take a stroll, and then continue farther north to Maple Bay Natural Area in Williamsburg. This 425-acre property features 1.75 miles of trail, which can be extended with a walk along the beach. Whether you’re hiking or snowshoeing, you’ll love watching the snow fall from towering trees on your way to sprawling views of a dramatic winter dunescape.
Sweat it out in a mobile sauna. In Finland, saunas are an integral part of the culture—a ritual many take part in at least once a week. They’re known to reduce stress, improve sleep and ward off seasonal affective disorder. Following the lead of his Finnish ancestors, Traverse City native Daniel Sarya founded MI Sauna in 2020. The mobile sauna, housed in a wood-fire heated trailer, is parked at Traverse City State Park beach where, after sweating it out inside, some hardy souls take a cold plunge into the lake or make snow angels on shore.
Ski at night at family-friendly Mt. Holiday or Hickory Hills, both in Traverse City. At Mt. Holiday you’ll also love the tubing hill and T-Bar & Grill (order the white cheddar cheese curds). Over at Hickory Hills, the top of Swede Slope offers views of Grand Traverse Bay and downtown. There’s also a wooded 5k trail for Nordic skiers and a lodge where visitors can warm up with bites like sloppy joes and mozz sticks.
Explore the VASA pathway. A series of loops (3k, 5k, 10k, 25k) offers users—cross-country skiers, runners, hikers, mountain bikers, snowshoers, naturalists—a variety of terrain, from easy to difficult. The pathway also welcomes the annual Iceman Cometh mountain bike race (Nov. 2, 2024) and North American Vasa cross-country ski race (Feb. 8–9, 2025). You’ll want to check out the groomed 15k Winter Sports Singletrack, ideal for fat biking, or the 2.5-mile Vasa Snowshoe Trail.
Visit a snow-capped lighthouse. The same trails we cherish in summer take on a different kind of wonder in the hush of winter. Tucked at the tip of Old Mission Peninsula, Mission Point Lighthouse Park is home to miles of wooded trails that make for a beautiful snowshoe hike (note: there are some moderate elevation shifts throughout). Take a moment and amble to the water, soaking in the serene surrounds.
PHOTO BY ALLISON JARRELL ACOSTA
Acme Bayside
cozy dining recs
MODERN BIRD
Come in from the cold and warm up at these snug eateries.
by Cara McDonald, Carly Simpson, Emily Tyra and Allison Jarrell Acosta
Soft lighting, a beautiful brick storefront and a menu made for tasting— Modern Bird pairs the feel of an old neighborhood restaurant with the menu of a fresh bistro. Don’t miss the cheddar ranch-butter bread, or rotating supper picks like duck croquette with katsu sauce, apple and watermelon radish. Save room for dessert—an in-house pastry chef never disappoints with seasonally inspired cream puffs, pavlova, panna cotta and lovely meringue-topped pies.
POPPYCOCKS
The two bay windows at the front create a perfect nook for couples. Just a touch apart from the rest of the dining room, these high-top tables for two let you take in the bustle and glow of Front Street at night, complete with loads of twinkle-lit trees filling the view. Inventive cocktails invite sharing sips, and we recommend kicking off the night with the lightly fried Parmesan-dusted pita points served with homemade salsa, hummus and bubbling hot Jarlsberg cheese.
PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER
Modern Bird
ARTISAN TRAVERSE CITY
FORREST, A FOOD STUDIO
This tiny Old Towne storefront is blink-and-you’llmiss-it, but Forrest, A Food Studio feels more like a dinner party with friends than a bustling night out— perfect for dates when you need food that sparks conversation (locally sourced, fusion-inspired) and the convivial warmth of other diners to help break the ice. A single seating on Friday and Saturday nights (book ahead) serves a multi-course set dinner menu that rotates monthly.
JOLLY PUMPKIN
One of our favorite local haunts: Jolly Pumpkin restaurant and brewery up on Old Mission Peninsula. The stone fireplace is the centerpiece of this wonderfully rustic tavern, but there isn’t a bad seat in the house. Pair one of their oak-aged sour beers with truffle fries and a pizza, so you can snack, sip and chat around a crackling fire.
FARM CLUB
This brewery/restaurant/market/working farm tucked in Traverse City’s rolling countryside has been shining in the national spotlight. Vogue, Bon Appétit and Hemispheres magazine by United Airlines have all (finally) discovered what we’ve known all along—Northern Michigan is pretty darn special. And while they may be late to the party, they’re correct that Farm Club is indeed a must visit. Pro tip: Reserve an outdoor fire pit and stay warm under wool blankets with drinks in hand (October through March; accommodates up to 10 people).
Artisan Traverse City offers up a modern, fine-dining vibe. With multiple fireplaces and comfy seating, this is the definition of a hygge hangout. You can lounge on a sofa, order a cocktail and snack on apps in front of their Swedish fireplace, or enjoy a meal by their dining room hearth. Locals Night is every Thursday (sweet deals on two courses plus a glass of wine), so we recommend kicking the weekend off early.
BOATHOUSE RESTAURANT
With more than 300 feet of frontage on Bowers Harbor along Old Mission Peninsula, Boathouse offers breathtaking views of West Grand Traverse Bay, especially romantic at sunset. Open for dinner only, this casual fine dining establishment has an upscale menu featuring oysters, scallops, Wagyu filet and their famous morel bisque. The extensive wine list features 100-plus bottles from Michigan, California, Italy, France and Spain.
THE BURROW
For a true treat-yourself snack, order the French onion fondue made with Northern Michigan—style raclette from Leelanau Cheese. It comes to the table gently bubbling in its own cast iron skillet—a luxe blanket of melted cheese over tender caramelized onions. It’s a delicious little gift.
sip like a local 5 hygge hangouts to love.
KINGLSEY LOCAL BREWING
A sister brewery to TC’s Workshop Brewing Co., this convivial, downtown hangout has live music, open mic nights and karaoke. Plus, order Papano’s Pizza right to your seat.
MAMMOTH DISTILLING
Snag a wooly chair (you’ll known it when you see it) at the warm, industrial tasting room in TC’s trendy Warehouse District, and order a NoMi Mule with cherry vodka.
BONOBO WINERY
This sleek but welcoming tasting room—with its double-sided fireplace and plush armchairs—is a haven for snowshoers and cross-country skiers on Old Mission Peninsula.
CHATEAU CHANTAL
Book a room at this old world–inspired winery and B&B, ideally on an evening when one of the popular, six-course wine dinners are being held.
TRAVERSE CITY WHISKEY CO.
Grab a seat at the bar of this super snug tasting room, and sip a cherry whiskey sour while you watch the snow fall.
Bavarian Inn Lodge Frankenmuth,
insider’s list the up north
The enchanting Chain of Lakes region offers plenty of snowy season adventures (and cozy nooks for warming up).
by Allison Jarrell Acosta
A winter visit to Castle Farms is magical. Explore the grounds with a self-guided tour, hit the 1918 Museum and cap off your day with a wine tasting at 1918 Cellars.
Catch a sunset at the Torch Lake public boat launch in Alden, then walk across the street to Torch Lake Beer Co. for local brews and a Bavarian pretzel.
Warm up at Mammoth Distilling’s Central Lake tasting room with a seasonal cocktail, and grab a bottle of Cherry Bounce for some at-home mixology.
For all things sweet, Ruthann’s Gourmet Bakery in Bellaire is a must. Caramelapple muffins, maple-pecan scones, almond-filled bear paws. Yum.
Stroll Elk Rapids’ picturesque shoreline, and follow up your wintry moment of Zen with a bowl of crawfish corn chowder at Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen
Book a snowy storybook getaway. Our faves: Horton Creek Inn, a three-story log lodge near Charlevoix, and The Hawks Nest, a 1940s log cabin Airbnb along Six Mile Lake in East Jordan.
sweet small towns
From charming Elk Rapids to Charlevoix the Beautiful, these quaint burgs are pure winter magic.
by Allison Jarrell Acosta
ALDEN
Lovely little Alden on Torch Lake is filled with boutiques, cafés, a specialty spice store, an old-fashioned general store and even a wine bar. Enjoy a stroll through downtown’s shops, then get cozy at Torch Lake Beer Co. and raise a glass to their superb collection of Northern Michigan craft brews.
BELLAIRE
The grand old Antrim County Courthouse presides over this charming burg that sits between Lake Bellaire and Intermediate Lake. Find a lively shopping district and four-season Shanty Creek Resort here. For a small town, the nightlife is hopping with Short’s Brewing Company, Fireside Lounge cocktail and wine bar, Mammoth Distilling and Bee Well Mead & Cider.
CENTRAL LAKE
This sweet town has a true Up North vibe, which was kicked up a notch when Mammoth Distilling opened its doors here several years ago. Drop by Torch Lake Café for a bite, and don’t miss a meal at the stately Blue Pelican Inn—better yet, make it an overnight and grab a room there, too.
ELLSWORTH
CHARLEVOIX
There’s nothing quite like watching the fire engine–red Charlevoix South Pier Lighthouse pop against Lake Michigan’s icy blue waves. After a quick photo op, browse the downtown galleries and boutiques, stopping at That French Place for a cup of hot chocolate and a Nutella crêpe. End your day sipping a craft beer in front of a drop-dead gorgeous Lake Charlevoix view at Bridge Street Tap Room.
EAST JORDAN
This adventure town combines outdoor recreation (snowmobiles welcome!) with fun shops and eateries. Check out the Jordan Art Walk along the city’s trails and parks, featuring sculptures by local artists. Then tuck into comfort food eats at Foundry Craft Grillery, an East Jordan institution with a second location in Elk Rapids; their off-season calendar is brimming with live music and trivia nights.
Tucked on the northernmost point of the Chain of Lakes, this charmer of a village on Ellsworth Lake is a perfect basecamp for ice fishing, snowmobiling or heading to nearby St. Clair Lake-Six Mile Lake Nature Preserve for serene snowshoeing along the universally accessible Mary Behrens Sorrell Trail.
ELK RAPIDS
Wedged between Elk Lake and Lake Michigan, this town boasts plenty of quaint winter scenery. Browse the many boutiques and galleries downtown, go antiquing or explore one of the North’s most beautiful library settings. Twirl around the outdoor ice rink, then fill up at one of this town’s awesome eateries, like The Dam Shop, Chef Chucks, Cellar 152 and Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen.
Discover more things to do in each of these northern towns: link.mynorth.com/towns
PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER
Foundry Craft Grillery, East Jordan
how we winter
Get outside and play!
by Allison Jarrell Acosta
Meet the pups at Second Chance Mushers and experience a uniquely northern winter activity—dogsledding. Head to Rocky Top Farms in Ellsworth for breathtaking dogsled rides, where you’ll glide through trees and fields along some of the North’s most scenic terrain. (Note: Rides earlier in the day will be faster due to the dogs’ excitement!) After your gleeful jaunt, enjoy a meet and greet with the huskies, then cozy up around the fire pit and roast s’mores. These rescued pups are sure to put a smile on your face.
For the adrenaline junkie, Shanty Creek Resort’s Schuss Mountain is known for its top-notch alpine skiing—from easy, slow-burn cruising along the Concourse to Chicken Run, to belly-flipping runs like the 450-foot vertical Kingdom Come. Beyond the downhill rush, visitors can also enjoy a host of other wintry activities: Nordic skiing Shanty Creek’s 28km of groomed cross-country trails, fat biking or snowshoeing 3km of groomed multipurpose trail, and alpine tubing with the kiddos. Those looking for even more adventure can head just a few miles away from the resort to snowmobile the Jordan Valley Trail System (local outfitters include Snowblitz and Blue Sky Rentals).
Find fat bike freedom at Glacial Hills Pathway and Natural Area. This Bellaire gem is home to a trail system that encompasses more than 800 acres of forested land, lovingly maintained by the Friends of Glacial Hills. Last winter, about 7.5 miles of trails were groomed for fat biking, accessible from either the Main Vandermark trailhead or the Orchard Hill trailhead. If you’re looking to rent a fat bike, head to Revolution Bike in Charlevoix for a great selection (plus, their knowledgeable staff is ready to assist first-timers).
With kids in tow, head to Charlevoix’s Mt. McSauba—an affordable, family-friendly ski area that’s truly a winter recreation playground. Enjoy lighted downhill skiing, a snowboarding/terrain park, lighted and groomed cross-country trails (plus 80 acres of ungroomed trails), a lighted sledding hill, a skating rink with a warming cabin and more. Visitors can also take advantage of skiing and snowboarding lessons (register online), or participate in a beloved tradition: candlelight hikes. This will be the sixth season of these Friday night treks, where you can snowshoe, hike or even cross-country ski on candle-lit trails at your own pace (and sip some cocoa by a roaring fire).
Swoon-worthy winter rafting. Take a guided winter rafting trip with Jordan Valley Outfitters in East Jordan, and you’ll feel like you’re living in a snow globe. Your adventure begins at Graves Crossing along the wild and scenic Jordan River, where you’re safely placed into a white water–style raft. But you won’t find any rapids here—just a gentle float down the river, observing the natural beauty of the Jordan River Valley, and enjoying a mid-trip break for a hot drink and a treat.
Explore at night. The folks at Grass River Natural Area host an array of enchanting events each winter, like their moon-lit guided snowshoe hikes. These serene treks are led by a naturalist who will help you look for signs and sounds of the forest’s nocturnal wildlife. (Bring your own snowshoes, or rent some there for $5.) Or try a self-guided lantern-lit ski along groomed trails, and finish your trip at the center’s pavilion, where a warm, crackling campfire awaits. For more fun, return by the light of day to hike, snowshoe or cross-country ski Grass River’s seven miles of trails.
Second Chance Mushers
insider’s list the up north
Get up close and personal with this coastal region from Benzie County to Ludington and all the snowy forests, lakes and rivers between.
by Carly Simpson
Manistee’s Victorian Sleighbell Parade & Old Christmas Weekend is one of the North’s most magical winter traditions. Save the date: Dec. 7, 2024.
Pairing flowers and coffee, Java Bloom may just be the best-smelling shop in Ludington. Treat yourself to cinnamon rolls and a bouquet.
Thursday is rib (and football) night at Geno’s Sports Bar and Grill in Thompsonville. Craving BBQ on the go? Primo’s in Cadillac has the goods: wings, ribs, pulled pork, brisket.
Also on Thursdays, trivia at Lake Ann Brewing brings out the locals. It gets competitive in this neck of the woods. Arrive early. Order sustenance (the Thai Reuben is excellent) from The Stone Oven next door.
Browse Cadillac’s North End Market (weekends only) where a rotating lineup of vendors offer homemade wares—fiber crafts, jewelry, baked goods, coffee, honey, tamales. The Mac Attack booth, with gourmet mac ’n’ cheese, is a favorite.
Cozy up in heated igloos at Stormcloud Brewing Company and St. Ambrose Cellars, or check out Iron Fish Distillery’s sweet outdoor basecamp with heated tents and bonfire pits.
cozy dining recs
These sweet eateries will take the chill off.
by Carly Simpson
PAPA J'S, HONOR
The retro-inspired interior is simply delicious. There are the requisite redand-white diner booths and black-and-white checkered floor. The turquoise walls, lined with neon lights, are filled with memorabilia—The Beatles’ “White” album, movie posters, vintage board games, Benzie County senior class photos. On the way out, you’ll pass vending machines stocked with gotta-have gumballs and glitter rings. It’s nostalgic noshing at its finest. Order the cheeseburger pizza: Crisp dill pickles play nicely with juicy tomatoes, red onion, ground beef, bacon bits, a cheesy mozzarella-cheddar combo and tangy Thousand Island dressing. It’s sweet, savory, sour—everything you didn’t know you wanted in a slice.
AFTER 26 DEPOT CAFÉ, CADILLAC
Tucked inside the historic Ann Arbor Railroad Depot, this café offers a healthy serving of 20th-century architecture; sky-high ceilings, exposed brick walls, angular floor-to-ceiling windows. There’s even a patio platform overlooking the still-standing railroad tracks. Inside, guests fuel their engines with fresh-casual breakfast and lunch selections. Staples include buildyour-own omelettes, à la carte baked goods (cinnamon rolls, English muffins, biscuits) and maple syrup–topped chicken and waffles.
TRAIL’S END BAKING COMPANY, LUDINGTON
Classically trained baker Cody Wedding recently opened Trail’s End, much to the delight of locals. His butterscotch pie has been a hit, but we wouldn’t say no to a slice of key lime or pumpkin cheesecake either. Watch social media for special menu items, like cinnamon roll bread pudding, when Wedding is feeling especially creative in the kitchen. Lunch options include hearty soups and grilled sandwiches (the blackberry, bacon and Brie is calling to me).
HOUSE OF FLAVORS, LUDINGTON
Diners love the throwback décor: A record player spinning ’50s music, a shelf of Elvis memorabilia behind the ice cream counter, bright pink booths. We suggest cozying up with a roasted turkey dinner with all the trimmings, served year-round, and a strawberry milkshake. The gravy-smothered sandwiches stacked tall with turkey, mashed potatoes and stuffing are favorites, too.
876 BALDWIN, BALDWIN
The Northwoods outpost of Baldwin, approximate population 1,000, is a well-known destination among outdoorspeople. Perhaps a little more unexpected, though, is the bold, globally inspired menu at 876 Baldwin, a small-town restaurant that draws inspiration from North Africa, Spain, Cuba, Korea and Italy. A few dishes on our short list: shakshuka, steamed mussels, ropa vieja and a sensational harvest pizza topped with roasted baby beets and squash, caramelized onions, crumbly Gorgonzola and roasted garlic sauce. Don’t skip dessert; the pillowy tiramisu is heaven.
876 Baldwin
sweet small towns
These towns set out the welcome mat with food, libations and snow-capped adventures.
by Carly Simpson
Beulah
ARCADIA
This teensy-tiny community is home to two bucket-list destinations. Stop first at Inspiration Point, a roadside turnout that lives up to its name with endless Lake Michigan views. Then strap on your snowshoes at Arcadia Dunes; the Baldy Trails are a favorite.
BEAR LAKE
After hitting the trails in neighboring Arcadia, Lakeside Café has the buttermilk pancakes and hash browns you’re craving. Find an old-fashioned country store feeling—and rad jams like Razzle Dazzle—at Wee Bee Jammin’. (Note that this seasonal shop closes the weekend before Christmas.)
BENZONIA
Brake on US-31 for margaritas at The Roadhouse Mexican Bar & Grill; stop for house-made ice cream and fresh-baked doughnuts at Hill Top Soda Shoppe; browse a fantastic, sprawling collection of Christmas ornaments at Victoria’s Floral Design; spend an afternoon at the outdoor ice-skating rink on Traverse Avenue.
BEULAH
LAKE ANN
Set on the shore of lovely Lake Ann, find an old-fashioned grocery store, the rocking Lake Ann Brewing Company (with a fab pizza place next door, The Stone Oven) and irresistible small-batch treats from The Bread Lady. Cross-country skiers recommend the 5.8-mile Lake Ann Pathway.
There’s lots to love: the laidback vibes at Five Shores Brewing, a boutique-filled shopping district, bagels baked each day at L'Chayim Delicatessen, February’s can’t-miss Winterfest complete with a chili cookoff and frozen fish toss, and the 22-mile Betsie Valley Trail that you can ski, bike or snowshoe.
CADILLAC
Explore downtown’s shops and eateries, including newly opened Wildflour Bakery for pastries and afternoon tea, and The Bird House for handmade items from local crafters and artists. The Venue Event Center is a year-round concert and event destination bringing in national acts in rock, country, comedy and more. Add in Caberfae Peaks, ice fishing on lakes Mitchell and Cadillac, a plethora of cross-country skiing and fat biking trails ... Cadillac pretty much has it all.
FRANKFORT
This Lake Michigan harbor town dazzles in winter with the picturesque Point Betsie Lighthouse, historic Garden Theater, delightfully cozy Stormcloud Brewing Company (check out the brewery’s popular curling league) and fun downtown shops. A must: Order mama’s meatballs and burrata at Vita Bella Italian Kitchen & Market. Chef Ed Carrella keeps his mom’s cookbook in the kitchen so you know it’s good.
HONOR
Tucked near secluded snowy beaches in Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, Honor is bordered by the Platte River and home to classic Northwoods taverns including homey Platte River Inn. Pick up BBQ from Jim’s Joint.
LUDINGTON
A lively shopping district (don’t miss The Pier, My Happy Place, Sister Bees and Trail’s End Baking Co.), family-friendly bowling and live music at STIX, two historic lighthouses, stellar sunset views at Stearns Park. Plus, count ’em, three craft breweries.
MANISTEE
It’s all things Victorian here, from history tours of the city’s lumber-era architecture to the annual Manistee Sleighbell Parade & Old Christmas Weekend. But it’s always fine to throw off your corset at downtown’s breweries and eateries.
ONEKAMA
This postage-stamp town perched on the shore of Portage Lake slows down in winter. You should, too. Go ice fishing on Portage Lake, then make your way over to Blue Slipper Tavern for happy hour.
THOMPSONVILLE
Crystal Mountain, the heart of this rural township, is a top destination for snow sports, including downhill skiing and fat biking. Off-campus, check out Thompsonville’s Up North-style taverns and the hip Iron Fish Distillery.
Discover more things to do in each of these northern towns: link.mynorth.com/towns
how we winter
Get outside and play!
by Cara McDonald & Carly Simpson
Discover endless snowmobile trails in the Cadillac area, a hub for a regional network with nearly 500 miles through five counties—if the snow is good, you can ride from Cadillac to the Mackinac Bridge. Coyote Crossing Resort is a popular hangout, drawing anywhere from 300 to 500 riders on a bluebird Saturday. Owner Peter Finch is happy to recommend routes, plus his favorite scenic stops along the Pine River. Or swap tales ’round the Boon Bonfire, blazing each weekend outside of the Boon Country Store. Beginners, K&R Outfitters will take you on a guided snowmobile adventure.
Paddle a winter wonderland. Book a guided rafting trip at Pine River Paddlesports Center in Wellston. They’ll help with paddling and steering if you want, or the guide can canoe alongside you as you pass beneath snow-covered branches where chickadees sing a rosy song. Because rafts are extremely stable, you don’t have to worry about getting wet. Trips last about an hour and 15 minutes; reservations required. ›
CRYSTAL THRILL
Teach the kids to ski. Crystal Mountain in Thompsonville boasts 59 downhill runs and a 375-foot vertical drop. Also important: truffle fries at The Thistle eatery. In Cadillac, take on 27 runs and 485 vertical feet at Caberfae Peaks (take a cue from the weekend warriors, plug in your crockpot at Skyview Lodge). Both ski areas offer slopeside lodging, rental equipment and lessons for all ages.
Explore the big “M.” Cross-country skiers glide beneath a canopy of hardwoods on 18 miles of groomed trail between Cadillac and Wellston. Snowfall averages 130 inches from December to March, but the best skiing is usually in January and February. One loop provides several miles of ungroomed trail that’s perfect for snowshoeing, too.
Experience the thrill of ice fishing from the comfort of fully equipped, heated shanties. The guides at Sport Fish Michigan will set you up for a safe, memorable day on frozen lakes throughout the North. Their captains are based in Frankfort, Manistee, Traverse City, Leland and beyond.
Rent a fat bike. Crystal Mountain has 12 miles of groomed winter bike trails; plus, private fat bike tours are available for ages 12 and up. Have your own bike? Buy a trail pass for $10. We’d schedule a heated stone massage for afterward.
insider’s list the up north
The snowy side of this lovely peninsula is a winter delight—from fat-bike trails and winery sips to rip-roaring sledding hills, here’s the best of Leelanau.
by Cara McDonald
Warm up with a dark-chocolate “drinking chocolate” at Grocer’s Daughter Chocolate in Empire—rich, velvety, not overly sugary, it’s unlike any hot cocoa you’ve ever had.
Rent a fat bike at Suttons Bay Bikes and explore 5 miles of groomed fat bike–specific trails at Leelanau State Park.
After an afternoon of red cheeks and wet mittens, warm up with a raclette, caramelized onion and potato pizza at Northport’s FARO
Tuck in for a cozy modern-farmhouse stay (with snow-covered vineyard views!) at Bel Lago Winery’s new Vineyard Farmhouse.
Start your morning with a latte at 9 Bean Rows’ café and for heaven’s sake, don’t skip the pastries—the blueberry scone with its crunchy sugared top sells out fast.
Make it merry—shop for seasonal beeswax candles, felt ornaments, pottery, holiday cards and traditional oplatki (Christmas wafers) at the Polish Art Center in Cedar.
sweet small towns
From Northport to Empire, the villages of Leelanau Peninsula sparkle during the off season.
by Cara McDonald
CEDAR
Grab a local Light of Day Organics hot tea at Cedar River Coffee Company, then wander over to the Gallery in Cedar, originally a 1960s gas station. Keep the browse vibes going with yarn boutique Wool & Honey, the Cedar Emporium and the Polish Art Center, where you can shop brilliant blue Boleslawiec pottery. Wrap with dinner and drinks at Cedar Tavern or pick up pizza and other hot dishes to go (smoked turkey legs, meatloaf) at Bunting’s Market.
MAPLE CITY
Fun fact: Maple City was known as “Pegtown,” a nod to the shoe peg factory that produced little wooden pegs out of area maple wood. Pegtown Station, a cozy eatery, is the heart of the tiny community—and a perfect place for a morning omelette or a hearty calzone. Find crazy-amazing burgers made with locally sourced ingredients at Broomstack Kitchen & Taphouse. Just west of town, the pizza, sammies and Sunday brunch are a staple at Market 22 (the house-cured pastrami croissant is magic) or stop at Little Traverse Inn for gastro-pub fare with a hint of Indian and British influence. ›
Suttons Bay
PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER
EMPIRE
Visit a handful of fun shops at this beachfront town including Empire Outdoors and Miser’s Hoard, then grab a bite at The Village Inn or Joe’s Friendly Tavern, the kind of watering holes that haven’t lost their local charm. Grocer’s Daughter Chocolate is not to be missed; load up on bean-to-bar goodies and wander down to the town beach to admire Lake Michigan in winter.
GLEN ARBOR
This Sleeping Bear Bay hamlet is known for its plentiful shops and art galleries—and while fewer are open in the winter season, Glen Arbor still begs to be strolled. Check out shops like Coastal, Cottage Book Shop, Becky Thatcher Jewelry, Great Lakes Tea & Spice, and don’t forget merch from M22 Glen Arbor. For dining on the casual side, grab a basket of something deliciously fried at iconic Art’s Tavern, or opt for elegant dining at La Bécasse, Funistrada, Blu and the new Supper at The Mill. Finish the day with a glass of seasonal cider or wine at Glen Arbor Wines.
LAKE LEELANAU
This waterfront town on the Lake Leelanau Narrows mixes a friendly vibe with the buzz of three wine tasting rooms (Boathouse, Amoritas and Soul Squeeze). Shop for souvenirs at Leelanau Lavender or Northern Latitudes Distillery, then grab coffee at Pedaling Beans, try the classic tavern fare at Dick’s Pour House or enjoy the best of both worlds at Nittolo’s Seafood & Pizza.
LELAND
Start your morning at Trish’s Dishes and end it with relaxed fine dining at The Riverside Inn. In between, revel in the shuttered magic of Fishtown’s shanties—decked in winter lights for the season—and browse an array of fabulous boutiques on Main Street with a break for wine at Verterra.
OMENA/PESHAWBESTOWN
Take a table with a view of Omena Bay at Knot Just a Bar, taste away at Leelanau Cellars and hit the slots at Leelanau Sands Casino in Peshawbestown, the home of the Grand Traverse Band of Ottawa and Chippewa Indians.
NORTHPORT
Breakfast at New Bohemia Cafe, while away hours browsing gifts and home elements in the Pennington Collection, then bowl while you grab burgers and beer at Northport Pub and Grille.
SUTTONS BAY
Here’s a downtown loaded with charming storefronts, just begging you to stroll slowly, arm-in-arm. Find winter shopping at Bahle’s of Suttons Bay, The Front Porch and Lima Bean. The list of open eateries is equally healthy. On the elevated side: Martha’s Leelanau Table, Wren, Gilchrist Farm. More casual: Streetside Grille, Boone’s Prime Time Pub, Northern Country Kitchen, Hop Lot Brewing Co. Make sure to catch a movie at the historic, community-owned Bay Theatre.
Discover more things to do in each of these northern towns: link.mynorth.com/towns
Glen Arbor
PHOTO BY ANGELA BROWN
how we winter
Get outside and play!
by Cara McDonald
Give your inner child what it really wants—a chance to fly shrieking down a snow-covered hill at top speed. Tubing at Timberlee Hills is a beloved Leelanau tradition made all the more fun when you hit the lodge to huddle over nachos and hot chocolate afterward. Look for special events throughout the season like glow tubing.
Snowshoe to wine. The winter side of wineries is peaceful and unhurried, perfect for a leisurely chat and tasting flight. Pack snowshoes—many offer trails for exploring the vineyards and surrounding areas, including 45 North Vineyard & Winery, Black Star Farms, Blustone Vineyards, Aurora Cellars and Rove Estate. Warm up afterward with a glass of local wine.
Do the dunes. The hikes and overlooks that are so crowded in summer sparkle peacefully in winter at Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. Winter camp at Platte River Campground, sign up for a ranger-led snowshoe hike, race a sled down the snow-covered Dune Climb. For easy gliding, hit the groomed Heritage Trail on cross-country skis or snowshoes, or for rolling wooded hills, explore Alligator Hill, then top it off with dinner at one of Glen Arbor’s eateries.
Reboot your soul in one of 28 Leelanau Conservancy nature preserves, perfect for snowshoeing, Nordic skiing or just plain walkin’ in a winter wonderland. DeYoung Natural Area is just a hop off the Leelanau Trail, while the trails at Clay Cliffs (north of Leland) climb to lofty views of both Lake Leelanau and Lake Michigan. Maple City’s Palmer Woods clocks in at more than 1,000 acres, with groomed skate and classic cross-country ski trails amid rolling forested terrain. Find maps and deets at leelanauconservancy.org
Take a spin on a village ice rink. Northport, Leland and Suttons Bay are all home to volunteer-maintained rinks. Skate at Hancock Field nestled among the Victorian home–lined streets of Leland. Northport has a rink at Braman Hill Recreation Area, and Suttons Bay has ice at the corner of Lincoln and Broadway—rent skates at Suttons Bay Bikes.
Take the path less traveled. Spend an afternoon exploring the Leelanau Trail. This 17-mile path from Traverse City to Suttons Bay is groomed for cross-country skiing in winter; plan a stop at Shady Lane Cellars.
Hit the slopes at The Homestead, where you can ski with views of Sleeping Bear Dunes as a backdrop. Refuel at Whiskers for drinks and snacks and plenty of firepits and fireplaces.
Spend the day in Northport. Cross-country skis, snowshoes and fat bikes are all welcome on the groomed trails at Leelanau State Park. Swing by Dune Bird Winery for vino (or espresso) in a super cozy tasting room, then head to town. Browse shops and galleries, then wind down at the Northport Pub & Grille. Order up cheese curds and caramelized onion dip to share, try the pork-shoulder tacos, then knock down some pins in the bowling alley.
Not all play is outdoors—winter is a time for locals to gather for an always-evolving array of open-mic nights, theme menus, trivia, dinner deals and more. Check out trivia night at Martha’s Leelanau Table, Trivia Tuesdays at V.I. Grill in Suttons Bay, dinner-for-two deals at Funistrada, supper club at Blu in Glen Arbor, Friday date nights at Bel Lago Winery and euchre tourney Sundays at Glen Arbor Wines.
PHOTO BY TAYLOR BROWN
Chimoski Bakery of Suttons Bay
insider’s list the up north
Northern Michigan’s snowbelt is brimming with winter fun. Here’s your introduction.
by Carly Simpson
Dash through the snow in a horse-drawn sleigh at Cook Family Farm in Gaylord, then warm up with freshly baked cookies and cocoa, complimentary with your ride.
Browse hundreds of works by Michigan makers at AuSable Artisan Village in Grayling. The gallery space is also home to Our Town Coffee & Treats, with goodies like gingermolasses cookies.
Belly up to the bar at Gaylord’s Snowbelt Brewing Co. for Coney dogs and craft beer. Trivia begins in October—arrive early, wear your smarty pants.
Thrill-seekers, check out the tubing tracks at Treetops Resort. You’ll hurtle down steep drops and drift around exhilarating curves. A Magic Carpet will take you back to the top to do it all over again.
Goodale’s Bakery in Grayling has been family owned and operated for more than 50 years. They know how to make a good doughnut (and fabulous paczki in February).
The region’s many lakes are popular for ice fishing, including a limited license drawing for sturgeon on Black Lake beginning the first Saturday in February. (Sturgeon evolved during the Jurassic period, when dinosaurs roamed Earth!)
Hartwick Pines State Park
how we winter
Get outside and play!
by Cara McDonald & Carly Simpson
Call it the most perfect of storms: Sweet lake-effect snow and a higher-than-usual elevation put Gaylord right in the heart of a tiny, perfect snowbelt, gaining 20 to 30 more inches annually than surrounding spots even a few miles away. Longer-lingering snow means great conditions for snowmobiling, snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. If winter is your jam, this region definitely warrants a road trip. Some highlights?
Seek solace and snow along the Old Growth Forest Trail at Hartwick Pines State Park near Grayling, where you’ll be awed by white pines that are centuries old. The towering trees reach heights of over 160 feet, and trails here are just right for snowshoeing and winter hiking. The lantern-lit snowshoe hikes, held on select dates throughout the season, are especially gorgeous.
Swish, swish, glide. Nothing kills a good day of skiing faster than poor snow, bad waxing, ill-fitting skis or bummer rental gear. But cross-country skiing goes from good to great when you do it at a Nordic center like Forbush Corner in Frederic—you can count on professional grooming, tuning and waxing, lessons, gear demos, rentals and sales. Forbush also has a state-of-the-art SMI snowmaking system on a 2 km loop, so there’s always something skiable.
Start your engines. Gaylord is a snowmobiling paradise. Rent a sled or trailer your own and explore the 500 miles of groomed trails that branch out from this central hub. Riders can jump on Trail #7 and head north to the Upper Peninsula, or take it easy on Trail #4 and meander into East Jordan and Mancelona. February’s Michigan Snowmobile Festival is always a good time.
Picnic by the river. Grayling’s Rayburn property on North Down River Road has a scenic trail open to the public. This combination 2-mile paved path and two-track winds down to the Au Sable River where crosscountry skiers can cross on a primitive bridge and continue to M-72 East. The high-banks property overlooks the river; a beautiful spot for a winter picnic!
Snowshoe the “big wild.” The 109,000-acre Pigeon River Country State Forest is home to one of the largest free-roaming elk herds east of the Mississippi and was once called “wild as the devil” by a young Ernest Hemingway. It’s undeveloped, meaning there is a limited amount of infrastructure and signs. Cellphone coverage is spotty. And it’s glorious. Miles and miles of ungroomed trails will take you along rolling hills and twisting rivers. A few favorites: Shingle Mill, Green Timbers, Towerman’s Watch. The Pigeon River Discovery Center has some great intel online: pigeonriverdiscoverycenter.org
PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER
sweet small towns
Shop, dine, paddle and sled your way through this gorgeous region.
by Carly Simpson
GAYLORD
This Swiss-themed city—crowned Michigan’s “Alpine Village” thanks to a relationship with sister city Pontresina, Switzerland—fittingly lies in the state’s snowbelt, where an average of 140-plus wonderfully fluffy inches of snow fall each year. With four-season resorts Otsego and Treetops and a surrounding of more than 100,000 acres of state forest, Gaylord is a winter-sports paradise. Downtown, Main Street is a shopping hub: The Old Spud Warehouse has one-of-a-kind home décor and unexpected gifts, Isabella’s Copper Pot is a home cook’s nirvana, and Aub Marley’s has eclectic and vintage treasures galore. Don’t leave town without dining at Bennethum’s Northern Inn.
GRAYLING
The city that dubs itself “Michigan’s most colorful river town” sits at the headwaters for the Au Sable and Manistee. Add big beautiful Lake Margrethe, a smattering of smaller lakes and miles of forests to Grayling’s attributes and you get the picture: life here revolves around four seasons of outdoor sports. Standout attractions? The virgin white- and red-pine forest at Hartwick Pines State Park and 35 km of groomed Nordic ski trails at Hanson Hills. Downtown, catch a movie at The Rialto, dine on the banks of the Au Sable at Ray’s BBQ, find all sorts of gifts and goodies at The Curator, and join fly anglers from around the world at the Old AuSable Fly Shop.
INDIAN RIVER
This homey town is tucked between Burt and Mullett lakes and sits along the 40-mile Inland Waterway. Indian River is also at the convergence of some of the state’s greatest hiking, biking and snowmobile trails: the 75-mile North Central State Trail; the 70-mile North Eastern State Trail and the 32-mile North Western State Trail. A popular attraction here is the 55-foothigh, 22-foot-wide Cross in the Woods that bears a seven-ton corpus of Jesus cast in bronze at a foundry in Norway. At day’s end, locals and visitors gather at Northland Brewing Company.
LEWISTON
With its 22 lakes, this Northwoods burg is half made of water (and ice). But you’ll also find rustic elegance at Garland Lodge, where you can cross-country ski, snowshoe or just relax by the fire. On select Saturdays, Garland’s Trout Camp experience offers ice fishing, ice putting, ice bowling and ice badminton on the resort’s frozen ponds. More winter fun: Learn to curl at the Lewiston Curling Club.
VANDERBILT
You could go to Vanderbilt—the northern gateway to Pigeon River Country State Forest—and never spend time inside. Find camping, hiking, snowmobiling and horseback riding on miles of nearby trails, as well as fishing on the Sturgeon and Pigeon rivers.
WOLVERINE
The spunky, fast-moving Sturgeon River runs through this quiet town. Head out on an exhilarating paddle (guided winter rafting trips offered through Sturgeon River Paddlesports; no experience needed), and grab a bite afterward at The Thirsty Sturgeon Bar & Grille. This little log cabin right on the river has a Mac Daddy Burger loaded with mac ’n’ cheese alongside entrées like Parmesan walleye, chicken Marsala and butter-rum pasta.
Discover more things to do in each of these northern towns: link.mynorth.com/towns
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Gaylord
