June 2019

ENTER FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN A TWO-NIGHT UP NORTH FAMILY VACATION AT CRYSTAL MOUNTAIN! MyNorth.com/crystal19

INSIDE: NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE FOLLOWING PAGE 88

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Secret RV Camping Spots Cherry Basil Ice Cream + Margarita Macarons, Heck Yes! The Crazy-Cool Comeback of a Fishtown Lodge

BEACH, BURGER, BAKERY, BOAT CAPTAIN, BARTENDER, BEER EVENT, BARK-FRIENDLY EVERYTHING… YOUR FAVORITE…

Get Up Close on a Great Lakes Freighter Track Isle Royale’s Mighty Moose A Winemaker's Leelanau Life

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Elegant, modern farmhouse designed by Visbeen Architects to-be-built by J. Peterson Homes.

The 3,800 sq. ft two-story home sits on a beautiful 1.04-acre parcel with 100 ft of private waterfront on Good Harbor Bay. $2,400,000 l MLS 1859200

Splendid opportunity to live in the historic, coastal town of Leland in this charming Cape Cod style to-be-built by J. Peterson Homes.

Open floor plan that seamlessly incorporates a luxurious kitchen, family dining and living area flanked by a stunning fireplace. $599,000 l MLS 1856982

New, craftsman style home, custom designed for this 116 ft of hard sand waterfront parcel and providing exceptional views of North Lake Leelanau from every room. Located off a private road, in quiet neighborhood. $1,300,000 l MLS 1858737

joel@joelpetersonhomes.com • 654 Croswell, East Grand Rapids • 616.940.9288 • 516 E. Front St., Traverse City • 231.994.2168

Contents june | features

Discover more about Up North, people, places, food and events.

48 | RED HOT BEST 2019 We asked. Thousands of you voted.

Dive into the top dogs in 101 Red Hot Best categories, from best new restaurant to pet-friendly lodging.

64 | THE BEST DAM LODGE These passionate 20-somethings are bringing new life to an iconic Fishtown lodge, making generations of guests fall in love with Leland all over again.

72 | GOING ON A MOOSEWATCH Isle Royale, thrown off Michigan’s remote Keweenaw Peninsula in the mighty Lake Superior, is a truly wild place. We go in search of moose.

And find them in a most unlikely way.

76 | OUR LADY OF THE VINES

48 64

72

She’s a science wiz with a thing for viticulture, and she’s making seriously good rosé.

82 | LIFE ON A FREIGHTER Michigan’s fresh seas are home for this cadet in training.

82 PLUS: N Home orthern & (follow Cottage ing pag e 88)

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN ’19

3

contents | departments

15

Family Friendly Locally Focused Cooked from Scratch 20 Beers on Tap Wine & Spirits

Take a “Learn to Curl” Class!

Sign Up for a League!

Book on our Website

WWW.EATDRINKCURL.COM

89

109

172 W Burdickville Rd. Maple City, Michigan 49664

9 | EDITOR’S NOTE 15 | UP NORTH What Traverse City looked like when you were born, the North’s friendliest shop dogs, the beeswax products everyone’s buzzing about ...

27 | THIS IS MYNORTH KitchenAid • Wüsthof • Mason Cash TeakHaus • Staub • Stonewall Kitchen Garnier-Thiebaut • Polish Pottery

The North comes alive on Instagram this month.

109 | DRINKS Leelanau wine releases.

111 | OUTDOORS Cooking under the open sky.

112 | LOVE OF THE WATER Blessing of the Fleet.

ON THE COVER

29 | JUNE EVENTS

In their happy place: Goldendoodle, Alice, with friend Camryn Calderwood on Torch Lake.

Art exhibits, antique festivals, craft beer celebrations and more local happenings.

Photo by Andy Wakeman

43 | TRAVEL Escape to these lakeside RV parks.

Bridal Registry & Gift Certificates

Making Your Kitchen The Ideal Place To Be

421 River St. • Manistee 231-398-9895 Open 7 Days

www.theidealkitchen.com 4

MyNorth.com

45 | UP IN MICHIGAN The Strawberry Queen.

89 | DINING

FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA

facebook.com/mynorthmedia

Ice cream flavors you never knew you needed to try... Our food editor has the scoop!

instagram.com/mynorthmedia

105 | LOCAL TABLE

twitter.com/mynorth

Serve June-fresh rhubarb slaw.

pinterest.com/mynorthmedia

have

STYLE will travel

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6

MyNorth.com

A MyNorth Media Publication PRESIDENT/EDITOR IN CHIEF EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL AND CONTENT EDITOR PROOFREADERS

REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

Deborah Wyatt Fellows Emily Tyra Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson Elizabeth Aseritis, Caroline Dahlquist Kathy Young Kim Schneider, Tim Tebeau, Andrew VanDrie Gail Snable Theresa Burau-Baehr

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS

Rachel Watson

GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Breanne Kerner

WEB DIRECTOR

Jen Berigan

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Julie Parker

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

Ann Gatrell Jill Hayes Meg Lau Cyndi Ludka

MARKETING DIRECTOR

Erin Lutke

MARKETING COORDINATOR MYNORTH TICKETS MANAGER OFFICE MANAGER BOOKKEEPER

Kara Jarvis

Hannah Malinowski Libby Stallman Kim Stewart

Editorial & Advertising Offices 125 Park Street, Suite 155 Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231.941.8174 | Fax: 231.941.8391 Subscriber Services Visit MyNorth.com/sub to change your address or to review your account.

Please e-mail other subscription inquiries to info@mynorth.com or call 800.785.8632 between 10 a.m. and 8 p.m. EST. Reprints Reprints available. Please call 231.941.8174.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly

by Prism Publications Inc., 125 Park Street, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684.

Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, 125 Park St, suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $27.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $4.50. Manuscripts must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. All rights reserved. Copyright 2019, Prism Publications Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN ’19

7

New construction in historic downtown Petoskey.

929 EAST LAKE STREET, PETOSKEY 824,900 · 4 Bed · 3.5 Bath · 3,500 Sq. Feet

$

David Shuman, Principal Broker 231.360.9149 · David@BayNorthRealty.com BayNorthRealty.com · 331 Bay St, Petoskey, MI 49770

editor’s note

THE LONG VIEW TEXT BY DEBORAH WYATT FELLOWS

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

T

here’s a reason I’m glad our first issue of Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine came out in June in 1981. It is a glorious month, filled with anticipation of all that will explode in full bloom in July and August, but June creeps upon all that quietly. There’s an old world grace to June, as if it is perfectly content to be stunning and alluring with no need to shout about it. I can’t say I didn’t intend to make a splash with the premiere June issue of Traverse way back when. But launching in June allowed all the celebration along with a dose of quiet humility: I told the newsstand distributor for Northern Michigan that I wanted to give him 10,000 copies and he said he’d take 1,000. I was appalled. He was seasoned. We sold 200 copies and I suspect several of those were to friends and family. Thus we forever have a first issue glorying in the wonders of June (or at least the best we could with eight pages of color), combined with a humbling reminder that, June, like Northern Michigan, makes a quiet entrance.

When that first issue came out, there was no question that we would endeavor to celebrate and protect Northern Michigan in words and photos printed on paper. We wouldn’t even have computers in our offices for another decade.

It was simply a given that the way we all connected to those things we cared about and wanted to learn more about was through a curated, printed product.

We valued the craft and the commitment and passion put in by people who chose as their profession, carefully and skillfully creating magazines.

People often ask me how I feel about all the change that has come upon us in the magazine world. It’s not unlike the questions I’m asked about the change that Northern Michigan has experienced. My answer is usually, change is inevitable; the only question to be asked is how well you manage it.

All of us have experienced the change technology has brought to our lives and our professions. I’ve learned that there were, indeed, people imagining computers and the Internet in 1981, but most of us were not. There was a moment, much like June, where the promise was there but we were all slowly adapting and preparing. Then those of us in media, like the general public, found ourselves in a headlong race, learning new devices and tools, adapting to having them in our lives.

For us in media, it was as if someone opened a fire hose and we had to learn new tools, new business models, whole new ways of doing what we do, while still producing outstanding magazines.

We were like Ginger Rogers who had to do everything Fred Astaire did but backwards and in heels.

That change came for us in a big hurry in 2008 when the recession was upon us. I remember calling in the staff and saying that we would always be a company publishing magazines because we know what they mean in peoples lives and as a support for our entrepreneurs. But we would not be a company that publishes only magazines. I said at the time that I didn’t know what that looked like, but it would be a journey.

They could choose to be on it or not,

no hard feelings. But if they were, we needed to roll up our sleeves and learn.

All but two people stayed. And roll up our sleeves we did. The staffers who saw us through such incredible change had to develop and integrate whole new tools and ways of doing what we do while still producing carefully curated magazines every single month that never once wavered in quality or substance. We built MyNorth.com, five monthly topic-driven newsletters and one daily, ShopMyNorth.com, MyNorthTickets.com, and more. And we added three new magazines.

Why did it work? Because the company and the people who dedicate their talents to it have never wavered from the mission of almost four decades: To celebrate and protect Northern Michigan’s natural resources, recreational opportunities, cultural experiences, intact small communities and entrepreneurial spirit. We are storytellers and while we have added many new ways of telling that story, the reason we do it has not changed. Nor has the need for the stories.

No question the business model has been challenging. But the thing about being in one business for so very long is that you really do get to see that, ultimately, qualities like authenticity, quality and integrity will always matter.

In a world where so much is coming at us every day, we are beginning, as individuals and as businesses, to discern what has meaning to us, what mediums we trust and what we want to let into our lives. Around the world, this interest in taking back some control of what4

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN ’19

9

Specializing in Fresh and Smoked Whitefish and Lake Trout

Specializing in Fresh and Smoked Specializing Open 8:30 a.m.exclusively - 6:00 p.m.

Whitefish7 days and Lake Trout a week

in Great Lakes Fish Open 8:30 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.

906-643-7535 • www.msfishcompany.com including Fresh and 7 days a week Smoked Whitefish Located across from Family Fare at 109 W. Elliot Street 906-643-7535 • www.msfishcompany.com and Lake Trout Located across from Family Fare at 109 W. Elliot Street

Open 8:30 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.

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MyNorth.com

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editor’s note

we allow into our lives is meaning a resurgence of print and magazines as people seek experiences with trusted, credible entities who bring expertise and talent. And that resurgence is also rooted in people wanting to shut everything off, get a glass of wine and lose themselves in the photos and stories found in magazines. Clearly, we find this trend absolutely wonderful and are doubly glad we never stepped back.

As the world continues to find its footing in all this, we at MyNorth, are all in on telling stories in many mediums having come to learn the discernible value found in each. We know all of it only works, and we only want to do it every day, because of commitment to mission and our understanding of trust. Our audience needs to trust us that we will carefully consider and craft every story we tell and that we commit our professional lives to doing that well. And everyone needs to trust that we have an unwavering passion and commitment to this place that means so much to so many.

It was audacious in June of 1981 to believe that a few people in their early twenties would take on that mission and that trust. But I can tell you, unequivocally, that through decades of dramatic change, often debilitating challenge and untold joy, that mission, commitment and trust is alive in each staffer today.

It’s true, I always say change is inevitable; it’s comes down to how you manage it. But I didn’t say what I always add next: The key is to know who you are and hold tight to what really matters as you adapt. This June anniversary of Traverse finds me incredibly proud of the hundreds of staffers who have done just that and of the audience we serve who holds tight to their love of place.

Enjoy our large, indoor pool, heated to 88 degrees!

The Museum of Ojibwa Culture ExplorE our History.

ExpEriEncE our culturE.

9-acre Hotel Property St. Ignace Michigan - US-2 Business Loop 906-643-9900 • cedarhilllodge.com

Lake Views • Hot Breakfast Included Discount Mackinac Island Ferry Tickets Picnic Tables • Grills • Lawn Games Pet Friendly • Pet Free Rooms Trip Advisor Certificate of Excellence

takE HomE a trEasurE.

visit us today 500 N State Street, St. Ignace Michigan For more information 906.643.9161 museumofojibwaculture.net

Deborah Wyatt Fellows is founder and editor in chief of Traverse Magazine/MyNorth. debwf@traversemagazine.com.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN ’19

11

VACATION THE STRAITS OF MACKINAC IN ST. IGNACE

INTRODUCING THE CLUB AT BREAKERS RESORT

Put our restaurant on your summer bucket list ...

- Creative menu design for your special event - Breathtaking views of historic Mackinac Island - Lake Huron breezes and sunrises on our private beach - Offering top-shelf beers, wines, & liquors - Signature Bloody Mary’s, Mimosa’s, and our own Grasshopper cocktail

The Club is a perfect amenity to our 100 room lakefront hotel.

MAKE SURE TO CHECK OUT ALL OUR LOCATIONS

927 N STATE ST SAINT IGNACE (906) 643-7733 BREAKERSMI.COM

927 N STATE ST SAINT IGNACE (231) 649-1337 BREAKERSMI.COM

7050 OVERSEAS HWY, MARATHON FL (305) 743-5246 MARATHONFLA.COM

210 ARTESIAN AVENUE HARBOR SPRINGS (231) 526-2111 HARBORSPRINGS.COM

The big picture is even bigger than you know.

If you think wealth management is only a portfolio of assets that are balanced, diversified, and properly weighted, you’re thinking too narrowly. Because without a broader wealth management strategy that integrates performance with tax planning, trusts, risk management, cash flow, retirement, estate planning, charitable giving, family assistance and so on, ROI only goes so far. Clients of Greenleaf Trust (with over $12 billion in assets under advisement) are nearly always pleasantly surprised that their big picture is even bigger, and better, than they knew. Give us a call and we’ll help you see yours.

Client relationships begin at $2 million.

Traverse City 231.778.0050 | Bay Harbor 231.439.5016 | greenleaftrust.com

L O C A L LY S O U R C E D . E X P E R T LY C R A F T E D .

PE TO S K EY. W I N E

Up North

PEOPLE | NATURE | ARTS | NOSTALGIA | BUZZ | WISDOM | CURIOSITIES

A good story needs a good hook.

In this case, the hook is the story ... turn the page to read on!

Metallic Brown Trout Starburst

Blueberry Muffin Lemon Drop

Spotted Green Dolphin

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

FISH TIP Use these lures to troll for striper, walleye, trout, salmon, steelhead and Coho in the big lake, not the river.

The smaller ones are better for trout and walleye, and the big guy will bring in salmon and steelhead.

Thank you Randy Dereske and the rest of the crew at Captain Chuck's II in Ludington for sharing the lures!

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN ’19

15

SAIL INTO SUMMER WITH

up north | nature

HOOK, LINE & SINKER

BY WILLIAM DEAN COBB

Celebrating 33 Years in Harbor Springs

Casual Elegant Fashions for Men and Women State and Main Streets • Harbor Springs 231.526.6914 • hildaharbor@gmail.com Open Daily 10am-5pm • Sunday 12pm-4pm

With visions of Ernest Hemingway battling a giant tarpon in Havana and the gritty New England fishermen of Wicked Tuna fame, four of us head out for an afternoon of charter fishing on Lake Michigan.

Our boat is the Talon, a 31-foot Baja Sport Fisherman moored in Elberta at the North Star Marina on Betsie Bay. Our captain is Rich Haslett, who has been fishing the Great Lakes for 30 years. The crew includes his wife, Linda, and their daughter, Jenny.

Today, the crew has four guys ready for action ... or as much action as our combined 288 years will allow.

We motor out one mile from shore and join, at first count, more than 60 vessels, all vying for King (Chinook) and Coho Salmon.

The biggest decision we'll make all day is what lure to use. Should it be a “Dandy Andy,” “Agent Orange” or “Toxic Toad?”

This time, it’s the old standby, “Mixed Veggies.” Most of these are hand-made at Wolverine Tackle, a family-owned shop in Orchard Lake, 30 miles north of Detroit.

Three of us talk, another takes advantage of the peaceful moment to nap ... until Linda suddenly calls out, “Fish on!”

Rich yanks hard on the line and hands the rod to Paul, the most “venerable” of our group. Heeding Rich’s instruction to “Keep the rod tip up,” Paul starts reeling in the 200+ feet of line.

Fifteen minutes later, Linda orders, “Reel down, reel down. Now back up slowly ... slower!” Rich takes the net, Paul follows orders and we’re all ready for the grab. In one fast dip, Rich hoists a 16-pound Coho on board.

It’s dark when we dock with a cooler full of fresh fish. We “old salts” head for the car with backs aching, shoulders sore and faces sunburned. We stop long enough to concede this will be a yearly tradition, as long as we have a great captain and crew and a full menu of “Mixed Veggies” and “Blueberry Muffins”.

Read the full essay at MyNorth.com/Lures.

William Dean Cobb writes from Hartland.

16

MyNorth.com

people | up north

kim

ENTREPRENEUR BUZZ

y kell

er

amb

PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

JOIN THE HIVE Ludington teachers and longtime friends Kimberly Ambrose and Amber Boerema began raising bees together nearly four years ago. The duo had always dreamed of starting a business together, and after researching the benefits of beeswax for skin and lips, the ideas started to buzz. They began making lip balm with beeswax from their three hives. Batch after batch, they kept adjusting the recipe until finally, they made the perfect balm.

Sister Bees now has 15 organic flavors including coffee vanilla, chai and bubblegum along with seasonal specialties like blueberry cheesecake, summer sangria and cherry pie.

The Sister Bees also hand whip eight silky skin care products including Bee Beautiful, Bee Baby and Bee Buddies (to protect pets’ paws!). The ingredients are simple, all natural and, of course, include beeswax.

Kimberly's younger sister, Kelly Bonnema, moved to Michigan in 2017 and joined the hive as a co-owner. The trio created a website, developed packaging and began marketing their products. In September 2018, the Sister Bees entered the Mason County Momentum Business Plan Competition and were selected as one of five finalists to give a five minute pitch, Shark Tank-style, in front of a panel of judges. When the winner was announced, it took a moment to sink in.

Sister Bees won! The prize: $50,000 and three years of mentoring from the judges, who are successful business owners.

Kimberly, Amber and Kelly are now employed full-time with Sister Bees and their products are sold across the country.

The Sister Bees still handcraft all of their products, ensuring each lip balm and bee tin comes with lots of love from three gals in Northern Michigan. Find products at sisterbees.com and the full story at MyNorth.com/SisterBees.—Carly Simpson

Find Ludington-based Sister Bees’ handmade products in more than 100 shops across the nation, and at sisterbees.com.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN ’19

17

Burt Lake Waterfront Home

Bay Harbor Waterfront Home

8760 W M-68, Indian River

4110 Peninsula Drive, Bay Harbor

4 Bedrooms - 3 1/2 Bathrooms - 3,300 Sq. Ft. 200’ of waterfront - Outdoor Pool $1,375,000

7 bedrooms | 7 1/2 baths | 10,000 Sq. Ft. 131’ on Lake Michigan and 130’ on Bay Harbor Lake

$7,900,000 - 4110peninsuladrive.com

Walloon Lake | Bay Harbor | Lake Charlevoix | Burt Lake | Mullett Lake | Petoskey | Harbor Springs

THE #1 AGENT IN

NORTHERN MICHIGAN

(231) 838-6700

PATLEAVY@KIDDLEAVY.COM

in 2018, 2017, 2016 2015, 2014 and 2013!

www.PATLEAVY.com

159’ on Village Harbor

100’ on Walloon Lake

35’ on Walloon Lake

3275 Village Harbor, Bay Harbor 5 bedrooms - 4 full baths, 2 half baths 5,000 Sq. Ft. - Private dock $1,799,000

4970 Longfield Farm, Boyne City 4 bedrooms | 4 1/2 baths 3,000 Sq. Ft. - Private dock $1,800,000

1339/1324 South Shore, Walloon Lake 4 bedrooms - 2 full baths 1,435 Sq. Ft. - Private dock $749,000

* According to NMMLS by volume sold | Office address: 325 E. Lake Street, Petoskey, MI

nostalgia | up north OLD MISSION LIGHTHOUSE 1980s

FRONT STREET | 1940s

PARK PLACE HOTEL | 1960s

Traverse City THE OPEN SPACE | 2000s

Snapshots of our Sweet Hometown

More MyNort at h.c TCThro om/ wback

Take a nostalgic look back at the city by the bay over the past 75 years.

Thank you to the Traverse Area District Library and Traverse Area Historical Society for preserving these photos. localhistory.tadl.org; grandtraverse.pastperfectonline.com

PHOTOS COURTESY OF TR AVERSE AREA DISTRICT LIBR ARY

HOLIDAY HILLS | 1970s

HORIZON OUTLET | 1990s

RECORD-EAGLE OFFICES AND WTCM MOBILE STUDIO | 1950s

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN ’19

19

No two of us are alike.

No two of us are alike. a memorial service a memorial service should reflect that. should reflect that.

Stephanie Sepell Kehrer Funeral Director Manager

Jennifer Sheehan Funeral Director

Stephanie Sepell Kehrer Funeral Director Manager

Jennifer Sheehan

Melissa Walker Funeral Director

Melissa Walker

Director Funeral Director (231) 946-6515  Funeral CovellFuneralHomes.com

(231) 946-6515  CovellFuneralHomes.com

Stephanie Funera Ma

Stephan Fun

(231

(2

No two of us are alike. a memorial service No two of us are alike. should reflect that. a memorial service

Worth Sharing UPtravel.com

should reflect that.

#UPTRAVEL Stephanie Sepell Kehrer Funeral Director Manager

Jennifer Sheehan Funeral Director

Melissa Walker Funeral Director

Isle Royale National Park

(231) 946-6515  Jennifer CovellFuneralHomes.com Sheehan Melissa Walker

UP90042 Traverse Magazine-Hiking-Jun 2019.indd 1

20

MyNorth.com

Stephanie Sepell Kehrer Funeral Director Manager

Funeral Director

Funeral Director

Stephanie Funera Ma

(231

Stephan Fun

4/25/19 9:35 AM

(231) 946-6515  CovellFuneralHomes.com

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what's up | up north

10

Things You (and Dad) Can't Miss at Wings Over Northern Michigan

As Gaylord’s high-flying, two-day airshow celebrates its 10th anniversary this Father’s Day Weekend, June 15–16, we check in with Gaylord Regional Airport Director Matt Barresi about this year’s can’t-miss attractions.

• Aftershock Jet Fire Truck – Picture a vintage, cherry red fire truck with jet engines that can go more than 360 mph and has fire breathing exhaust stacks. Yes, you read that right.

PHOTO BY DAN OSWALT

• US Navy Legacy F18 Demo – The Hornet is the principal aircraft carrier fighter plane of the US Navy and was designed as both a fighter and attack aircraft.

• Superstar Skip Stewart – Skip makes planes do things they should not be able to do—like fly sideways. Seriously, you’ve got to check out a video on YouTube.

• Shell-Camino Monster Truck – Take a ride in this 9,500-pound beast. It’ll be the most fun you have all day.

• Czech Mate Squadron – New at the airshow this year, the highly modified L-39 Albatros and its jet demo team will perform an amazing airborne ballet.

• Gibby’s Fries – Get a bucket—yes, an actual bucket—of these freshly cut, deep-fried beauties. Top with cheese or a dash of vinegar and pair with an elephant ear.

• Luxury Sports Cars – Drive a Ferrari or a Lamborghini as fast as you can. With top speeds of 200 mph, you’ll be pinned to the seat by the G-force. (Rather be on the passenger side?

A professional driver will do the rest.)

• The Extra 300 – A truck vs. plane grudge match is set between Pilot Michael Vaknin flying Extra 300 and the Aftershock Jet Fire Truck.

• B-17 Flying Fortress – Known as the aircraft that liberated Europe during World War II, the B-17 is a four-engine heavy bomber. It’ll be on the ground and open for tours, along with a B-25, C-47, A-4, T-6 and many others!

• Helicopter Rides – Take to the skies for incredible views of the airshow and the surrounding area.

Go to wingsovernorthernmichigan.org for parking tips, what to bring and other handy event information—portable lawn chairs and sunscreen are both a must.—Hannah Malinowski

Get airshow tickets at MyNorthTickets.com

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN ’19

21

(231) 922-2050 downtowntc.com

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10% of proceeds from each bracelet will benefit the cause they represent.

Collect all 12 Bracelets & receive a special Global Giving Bracelet.

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Friday Night Live August 2 - 23

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Downtown Art Fair August 17

DOWNTOWN GIFT CERTIFICATES MAKE THE PERFECT GIFT! CONVENIENT PARKING IN THE LARRY C. HARDY & OLD TOWN PARKING DECKS

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UP NORTH

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SHOP DOGS These sweet faces are waiting for you at local businesses across the North, and they can’t wait to be your friend.

! y d d Bu

Simon BREED: Pug | SHOP: Relish, Traverse City FAVORITE THING: Cuddling with customers on the couch—but don’t expect him to share the pillows.

Sitka BREED: Samoyed SHOP: Chateau Grand Traverse, Traverse City

thPets

PHOTO COURTESY OF SPINDRIF T CYCLESPORTS

i cool NoM Know a ow and tag g? Foll shop do orthMedia @MyN gram. on Insta

Juneau BREED: Eurohound SHOP: Spindrift Cyclesports, Ludington FAVORITE THING: Kids! And anything outdoors—skiing, biking, running—she’s ready to go!

PHOTO BY JON-PAUL ALLGAIER

r # M y No

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

FAVORITE THING: Chewing on anything left around the office and cheering on the Spartans.

We photographed this sweet buddy at Traverse City’s Cherryland Humane Society for a story we published a year ago... and decided to check in with staffer Grace Lambert to find out where he is now.

“Funnily enough, the sweet buddy pictured is actually named Buddy,” says Grace. “He was adopted out and returned twice before finding the family he is with, through no fault of his own! Buddy was just not having good luck in finding the right fit; I don't think people were ready for his awesome energy. We reached out to his adopter today and he said Buddy is a great dog and they are loving life.”

Notably, CHS is a no-kill facility, and Executive Director Heidi Yates cultivates skills and talents among staff members to help the animals flourish in a way never before imagined. CHS doesn’t give up on its tougher cases. With a scholarship fund established

by Traverse Outdoor, the team offers behavior training and postadoption support for rescues and their families.—Emily Tyra

PET TIP Everyone, including dogs, deserves a happy day at the beach. Even on dog-friendly beaches, not everyone is comfortable with approaching animals—keep your dog on leash and from lunging at other dogs, walking over sunbathers, children and beach blanket picnics. (Even other dog lovers draw the line at a wet dog on their towel!) Keep Fido hydrated, allow for shade when possible and don't forget sunscreen. Dogs can get sunburned, especially pups with white or thin coats like collies, Dalmatians and bulldogs. Choose a sunscreen without zinc oxide or para-aminobenzoic acid—both are toxic if ingested. For the Top 10 Northern Michigan Beaches to Bring Your Dog, go to MyNorth.com/DogBeaches.—Emily Tyra and Carly Simpson

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN ’19

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In pursuit of Magic 231-932-8378 507 Bay Street, Traverse City, MI 49684 Book on line at www.TheNewLookOfOrganic.com

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Our m i ssi on i s t o Re ge ne r a t e , Re st ore a nd Re j uve na t e your he a l t h!

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FEATURED EVENTS

We love to see your adventures.

Follow and tag @MyNorthMedia for a chance to be featured in Traverse Magazine.

6/8 LELAND WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL

Old Town Playhouse, Traverse City

6/14 THE MCCARTNEY YEARS

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6/13 - 16 THE THREE MUSKETEERS

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Leland Harbor, Leland

Ramsdell Regional Center for the Arts, Manistee

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The Village at Grand Traverse Commons, Traverse City

6/22 - 24 THE YOUNG AMERICANS DINNER THEATRE Boyne Highlands Resort, Harbor Springs

6/22 PLANET OF THE GRAPES WINE FESTIVAL

THIS SUMMER'S

BEST EVENTS Heading Up North? Get the inside scoop on the season's coolest events— food, art, music, wine, family friendly and more.

Head to MyNorth.com/Tix to sign up for alerts.

Leelanau Studios, Traverse City For more information visit MyNorthTickets.com.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN ’19

27

Design and construction work best when Bay Area Contracting and BAC Design Group collaborate and forge their ideas together.

bac-tc.com | bacdesigntc.com

calendar | events

TIX Look for this symbol in our events listings and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

June EDITED BY LIBBY STALLMAN

Find m o MyNor re at th.com Events >

SAT

1

THU

6

SAT

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

8

WED

12

And More | The Michigan Space Forum provides an intimate, interactive arena to discuss the issues and innovations in the space industry. Hagerty Center, Traverse City. Starts May 31.

MyNorthTickets.com

Art | Join Crooked Tree for an artsy cocktail hour June Swirl featuring appetizers by That French Place of Charlevoix and music by Kirby Snively. crookedtree.org/petoskey

Festivals | Summer bliss

starts at the Leland Wine & Food Festival! Award-winning wines, local food, beautiful views and live music all day.

MyNorthTickets.com

And More | Dine al

fresco in the Black Star Farms estate vineyard at the Harvest Dinner on a menu featuring strawberries and rhubarb.

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THU

Festivals | Taste of

SUN

And More | Celebrate

13 16 MON

17

Mackinac, part of the 71st Annual Lilac Festival, offers up culinary masterpieces from the Island's finest restaurants.

MyNorthTickets.com Father’s Day in Gaylord at the Wings Over Northern Michigan Airshow, with everything from historical WWII aircraft to jets. Saturday & Sunday.

MyNorthTickets.com

Kids | Kids and teens can

learn sailing basics and beyond with Traverse Area Community Sailing. Classes start today! tacsailing.org

FRI

21

SUMMER SOLSTICE

SAT

Festivals | Visit Bay Harbor’s

TUE

Music | Interlochen’s summer

THU

Literary | Suspense authors

SAT

Festivals | Nostalgia,

22 25 27 29

Main Street for the 21st Annual Vintage Car and Boat Festival, a spectacular, one-of-a-kind rolling museum! Friday & Saturday. bayharbor.com concert series rocks with Marty Stuart and Steve Miller Band tonight at Kresge Auditorium. tickets.interlochen.org

Steve Hamilton and Bryan Gruley take to the stage to chat with wit, laughter and insight into the allure of the mystery novel. City Opera House, Traverse City. nationalwritersseries.org rides, parades, cherry-centric food … you name it, and the National Cherry Festival’s got it! Watch the air show after the opening ceremonies today. cherryfestival.org

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUNE ’19

29

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june | events

Save yourself a trip.

Call ahead to verify all times and dates. Find more events at MyNorth.com.

Art

Find more Art events at MyNorth.com.

Higher Art Gallery Exhibit: 1-7

Drawn to Women of Contemporary Illustration: A curated exhibit featuring 14 female illustrators from around the world. May 3–June 7. Union Street in downtown Traverse City. higherartgallery.com

Landmark Lodging & Waterfront Dining Bay View inn, Bay View Victorian country inn on the shores of Little Traverse Bay. 800-258-1886

Art & Craft Fairs

Maritime Magic Arts/Crafts Show: 1

9am-3pm, Ludington Area Center for the Arts. ludington.org Experience Art Rapids!: 7-20

Historical Elk Rapids Cinema. artrapids.org Frankfort Craft Fair: 15

10am-4pm, Main Street, Frankfort. benzie.org Spring Fest Arts, Crafts & Antique Festival: 15-16

Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. 10am-3pm, Village Green, Pentwater 21st Annual Summer (Solstice) Art Show: 29-30

Crooked riVer lodge, alanson Family-friendly lodge, overlooking the picturesque Crooked River.

Indoor pool. 866-548-0700

Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. 10am-3pm, East Park, Charlevoix Mackinaw City Arts & Craft Show: 29-30

Sat. 10am-7pm, Sun. 10am-3pm, Conkling Heritage Waterfront Park. mackinawcity.com

Perry Hotel, Petoskey Just off the bay in Petoskey’s historic downtown Gaslight District. 800-737-1899

Dance

Find more Dance events at MyNorth.com.

Argentine Tango Dance Weekend: 29-30

An Argentine tango workshop weekend with professional dancers Harby Gonzalez and Marcia Mitchell. The classes offer support for beginner through advanced dancers.

Tickets available at MyNorthTickets.com. More information at tangointraversecity.com

Summer Packages Available

staffords.Com Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUNE ’19

31

SUMMER 2019 JUNE Tuesday, June 25 STEVE MILLER BAND MARTY STUART and his FABULOUS SUPERLATIVES

Saturday, June 8 JOSH GROBAN Bridges Tour

June 28, 29 & July 5, 6 RICHARD III

by William Shakespeare

Interlochen Shakespeare Festival

JULY Monday, July 1 BÉLA FLECK & the FLECKTONES

Thursday, July 11 CASTING CROWNS

Saturday, July 20 JOSHUA DAVIS with STEPPIN’ IN IT

Friday, July 12 REBA MCENTIRE

Wednesday, July 3 THE CAPITOL STEPS

Tuesday, July 23 PETER FRAMPTON The Farewell Tour

SUMMER 2019 Tuesday, July 16 I’M WITH HER

Saturday, July 6 DORRANCE DANCE Tuesday, July 9 INTERLOCHEN “COLLAGE”

Thursday, July 25 “WEIRD AL” YANKOVIC The Strings Attached Tour

Wednesday, July 17 DIANA ROSS Diamond Diana

AUGUST Aug. 1 - 4 9 TO 5, THE MUSICAL

Music and Lyrics by Dolly Parton

Friday, Aug. 9 LADY ANTEBELLUM with KYLIE MORGAN

Wednesday, Aug. 21 VINCE GILL

Tuesday, Aug. 13 JONNY LANG and JJ GREY & MOFRO

ON SALE NOW!

tickets.interlochen.org

•

800.681.5920

june | events

Weathervane Terrace Inn & Suites

Fairs, Festivals and Holidays

rated hotel in • Only downtown Charlevoix • Complimentary continental breakfast • Largest seasonal outdoor heated pool • Indoor hot tubs and fireplaces • Year-round indoor 8-person hot tub • Some balconies with views of lake or bridge • Complimentary Wi-Fi

www.weathervane-chx.com • info@weathervane-chx.com 111 Pine River Ln., Charlevoix • 231.547.9955

Find more Fairs, Festivals and Holiday events at MyNorth.com.

Mancelona Bass Festival: May 30-2

Parades, carnival, flea market, craft show and so much more! The entire family will enjoy the barbecue, fishing tournament, kids’ games, fireworks and free on-stage entertainment. mancelonabassfest.org Aldo Leopold Festival: May 30-2

Les Cheneaux welcomes you to celebrate the legacy of Aldo Leopold, one of America's most influential naturalists! Enjoy a long weekend of activities including paddling excursions, birding trips and many other nature-based activities. Hessel, aldoleopoldfestival.com Charlevoix Craft Beer Festival: 1

A celebration of Michigan craft beer, local food and entertainment. Enjoy a varied selection of high-quality Michigan craft beer while mingling with friends at a beautiful waterside venue. visitcharlevoix.com

SPECIALIZING IN WOMEN'S CLOTHING, ACCESSORIES, AND UNIQUE GIFTS

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Mackinac Island Lilac Festival: 7-16

The first and largest summer event on the Island attracts thousands of visitors. Festivities include the coronation of the Lilac Festival Queen and Court, Lilac Festival 10K Run/Walk, horse-drawn carriage tours, concerts, wine tastings, A Taste of Mackinac Culinary Event, Mackinac Island Dog and Pony Show, the Lilac Festival Grand Parade and so much more. mackinacisland.org

Let their imaginations take flight!

Suds & Sun 2019: 15

Kick off summer with live music starting shortly after 2pm. One stage with awesome summer vibes. Music from Botala, Soul Patch, Zion Lion and a two-hour dance party from 2Bays DJ headlining the day! Over 18 microbrew, cider and wine vendors are featured at the event, along with two local food vendors. Dogs allowed if on a leash and good behavior. 21+ event. Traverse City at The Village at Grand Traverse Commons. MyNorthTickets.com Beaver Island Bike Festival: 22

This is your opportunity to experience the unique, unspoiled beauty of Lake Michigan’s remote island. Bikers ride at their own pace and enjoy incredible scenery across 20 or 42 miles on a combination of pavement, gravel roads and two tracks. View Island monuments, historic sites and more. Each route includes rest stops where food, drinks and bathrooms are available. The downtown party provides dinner, music and entertainment. Register online. beaverislandbikefestival.com Planet of the Grapes Wine Festival: 22

Enjoy a fun afternoon from 3-8pm at Leelanau Studios at the Grand Traverse Regional Campus Festival Lawn.

Indulge in local wines, brews and foods while grooving to live musical performances by Soul Patch, Levi Britton and others. Comedy performances include Norm Stulz who has been seen on Comedy Central, HBO, Showtime, NBC, ABC and heard on Bob & Tom Show, Sirius XM and more.

Enjoy the Wine Education Room for educational wine tasting seminars to learn about the wines being produced in the Traverse Wine Coast region in an interactive way.

MyNorthTickets.com

•Model Planes •Flight Toys Books Flying Kits Experiments Don’t miss the

Thunderbird Airshow June 29th & 30th!

Science & Nature for creative & curious minds Est. 1980

M-22 Downtown Suttons Bay Follow us! (231) 271-6033

130 HALL STREET TRAVERSE CITY 231-252-4132

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUNE ’19

33

O U R B U TC H E R S H AV E OV E R 3 0 0 Y E A R S C O M B I N E D M E AT C U T T I N G E X P E R I E N C E High Quality Award Winning USDA Inspected Smoked Meats and Processing.

Fresh Cuts Daily. Beef, Pork, Poultry and more. Packaged the way you like it!

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Harbor Springs ~ Bay Harbor

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Independant Living 231-995-9385 Assisted Living 231-932-9757 3850 Scenic Ridge - Traverse City MI 49684 - TRS Dial 711

june | events

Kids

Find More Kids events at MyNorth.com

Take a Kid Fishing and Nitecrawler Hunt: 21-22

Kids gather at Mineral Springs Park in downtown Frankfort with their flashlights, rain gear (just in case) and buckets to gather their worms! On Saturday bring the whole family to enjoy a day of fishing! Kids receive free T-shirts, pizza, drinks and sweet treats. Bring your fishing rod if you have it, but rods can be supplied. No entry fees and no licenses required for kids! Children must be accompanied by a parent or adult. frankfort-elberta.com

T C ’ S B E S T K AYA K W I N E T A S T I N G T O U R

Grass River Summer Camp Weeks: 24-27

Camp is back for 2019 with 4 weeks of outdoor fun!

Perfect for children who love nature, ages 6 to 11 years old. The camp features different activities each week, including catching frogs in the wetlands, dipping nets in Finch Creek, birding along the boardwalks or enjoying the view along Grass River. Week 1: June 24-27; Week 2: July 8-11; Week 3: July 29- Aug. 1; and Week 4: Aug. 12-15. grassriver.org

Literary

Find more Literary events at MyNorth.com.

An Evening with Daniel Pink

26

Drawing on scientific research, Daniel Pink unlocks the secrets of how to best time your life’s happenings. In his book When: The Scientific Secrets of Perfect Timing, Pink reveals the optimum time of day to take a test or get surgery done. He talks about the big things, too: when to change a job or relationship. A New York Times bestseller for 4 months. City Opera House, Traverse City.

231.941.8082, nationalwritersseries.org.

Music

Find more Music events at MyNorth.com.

Live Music with Pianist Peter Bergin: 4

Michigan-based ragtime artist Peter Bergin has entertained audiences for over two decades. Peter’s mission is to celebrate life through music and stories and especially loves sharing the rhythms and history of ragtime piano. The concert is held within a bar/restaurant at 123 Speakeasy in Traverse City. All attendees must be 21+ to enter. Tickets and IDs will be checked at the door. MyNorthTickets.com

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Steel City Rovers: 7

Dynamic and expressive music that is a unique composite of traditional Celtic music and North American styles including bluegrass, folk and roots. Original works touch on issues of love, loss, celebration and heritage and breathe life into newly-discovered instrumental melodies from centuries ago. Cheboygan Opera House. theoperahouse.org 2019 Interlochen Summer Arts Festival: 8-30

June 8: Lauded for his "powerful vocals" and "incredible vocal range," Grammy-nominated singer Josh Groban returns to Interlochen for the summer 2019 Bridges Tour.

June 25: Two iconic performers unite in one spectacular performance as country legend Marty Stuart co-headlines with the Steve Miller Band! June 29: Founded by the Sphinx Organization in 2006, Harlem Quartet enchants audiences with their "fresh, bracing, and intelligent" perspective on classical music. June 30: Conductor Cristian Măcelaru joins the World Youth Symphony Orchestra for their first performance of the 2019 season. The orchestra makes its debut with Shostakovich's Symphony No. 11, "The Year 1905." Often described as a "film score without a film" due to its dramatic and descriptive themes.

Performaces thru August. tickets.interlochen.org

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Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUNE ’19

35

Antiquities B A R N

KAM MARINE AFFILIATE

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10% DISCOUNT TO ALL NEW HEATED & COLD STORAGE CUSTOMERS 229 Garland Warehouse District Traverse City MI 231-943-2121 www.antiquitiesbarn.com

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june | events

The McCartney Years: 14

Hailed by the original Beatles promoter as ‘THE BEST ON THE SCENE’, The McCartney Years is a period-true, technically stunning and explosive live concert show that performs the music of Paul McCartney spanning two decades from The Beatles to Wings. You’ll jump out of your seat to clap, sing and dance to the music by one of the most prolific artists of all time in this authentic, timeless live concert experience! Ramsdell Regional Center for the Arts, Manistee. MyNorthTickets.com Leelanau Summer Music Festival: 28

The season opens with the Ralph and Albertine Votapek Duo Pianists performing works for piano four-hands and works for two pianos. Highlights will be the Schubert Fantasy in F Minor and Six Tangos by Astor Piazzolla.

Former Holy Rosary School, Cedar. MyNorthTickets.com The Crane Wives: 29

In Japanese folklore, the crane wife is a bird disguised as a woman who spins fine silks from her own feathers, until her identity is discovered. The Crane Wives spin fine songs from whole cloth, and you will never want the melodies to leave your head. Portage Point Resort, Onekama.

MyNorthTickets.com

B a h l e ’s We’ve refreshed our interior as well as added new brands to our collection.

Drop by or shop us online

D ow n tow n S u t to n s B ay bahles.net | (231) 271-3841

Music Alfresco Odmark Performance Pavilion: 27

Charlevoix, June 27, 7-9pm

North James Street Plaza: 6-27

Ludington, Thursdays, 5– 8pm Marina Park: 28

Northport, 7-9pm

Village Green: June-August

Pentwater, Tues. & Thurs., 7pm

Concerts in the Park: 21, 26, 28

Petoskey, Noon

G.T. Pavilions Grand Lawn: 6-27

Traverse City, Thursdays, 7pm

SPEND SOME TIME UP NORTH ...

WITHOUT USING VACATION DAYS. Nature

Find more Nature events at MyNorth.com.

Bio Station Grand Opening and 30-Year Celebration: 21

The grand opening of the Inland Seas Education Association’s Capt. Thomas M. Kelly Biological Station takes place from 4-7pm. This $1.5 million renovation of the Inland Seas Education Association’s Suttons Bay campus is unveiled after a presentation by the Executive Director and a ribbon cutting ceremony. All ages are welcome as there will be s’mores at the outdoor fire pit, hands-on science in the lab and music by Song of the Lakes under the tent. schoolship.org

Subscribe yourself or someone you love now for a full year of Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine for $24 and receive 6 issues of Northern Home & Cottage, the Vacation Guides and 10 other special sections.

MyNorth.com/Vacation19

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JUNE ’19

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• Exceptional amenities including Executive Chef, amenities Wellness center Terrace Studio •an Exceptional including anLevel Executive leasean or purchase. carte, right in yourApartments. home as well Executive Wellness center Premier Club Living incertified Harbor Springs. with certifiedChef, Personal Trainer/ Chef, Wellness Center with Personal stepped-up services in our with certified Personal Trainer/ Wellnessamenities Coordinator, full service • Exceptional including Terrace Level Studio Apartments.

Trainer/Wellness Coordinator, full service salon, •Wellness Beautifully appointed one and Coordinator, service salon, library and cardfull room. an Executive Chef, Wellness center • When needed Perry Farm Village two bedroom condos, duplexes also offers wonderful supportive salon, libraryand and card room. library card room. with certified Personal Trainer/ and cottages for immediate services, in packages or à la www.perryfarmvillage.com Wellness full service leaseCoordinator, or purchase. carte, right in your home as well www.perryfarmvillage.com • When needed Perry Farm Village also offers stepped-up services in our salon, library and card room.

(231) 526-1500 • Exceptional amenities including wonderful supportive services, in Level packages or Terrace Studio Apartments.

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4241 Village www.perryfarmvillage.com Circle Dr. Harbor Springs, MI 49740 (231) 526-1500 www.pvm.org 4241 Village Circle Dr. Harbor Springs, MI 49740 www.pvm.org

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june | events If you have a kitchen, get in here!

The Home of Pepper Mill Spices

Runs/Walks/Cycling Events

Saturday, June 8, 2019 Noon-6:00pm

Bike Benzie Tour & Fondo: 1

Crystal Mountain, bikebenzie.org

12 Local Wineries 8 Food Booths Come & Go Re-Entry Non-stop Live Music

Dirty Dog Dash: 1

Boyne Mountain, 11am, 800.GO.BOYNE, boynemountain.com Challenge Mountain Bike Race: 2

Hanson Hills, 10am, Grayling, hansonhills.org Lilac 10K Run & Walk: 8

Mackinac Island, 9:30am, mackinacisland.org M-22 Challenge: 8

Little Glen Lake Picnic Area, Empire, 8am, M22challenge.com

Kitchen & Pantry Accessories Decor, Gifts, Gift Baskets

LelandMI.com MyNorthTickets.com

Famous custom blended seasonings of the highest quality pepper and spices.

$20 advance | $30 gate

Glen Arbor Solstice Half Marathon & 5K: 15

Glen Arbor, 7am, enduranceevolution.com Charlevoix Marathon, Half Marathon, 10K & 5K: 22

Charlevoix, 6:30am, charlevoixmarathon.com

The House of Good Taste!

Theater

Downtown Alden • Open 7 days, 10am-5pm May thru Dec (231) 331-4711 • (800) 226-5481 Visit us all year long at www.aldenmillhouse.com

Find more Theater events at MyNorth.com.

The Three Musketeers: 13-16

All for one and one for all! This swashbuckling adventure tells the story of young D’Artagnan’s quest to become a musketeer alongside Athos, Porthos and Aramis. Full of political intrigue and mystery, and doused with an ample supply of adventure and battle, this Young Company production will offer fun for the whole family. Performances are June 13, 14, and 15 at 7pm and June 16 at 2pm. Some parts are double-cast. Suitable for all ages. Old Town Playhouse MainStage, Traverse City. 231.947.2210, MyNorthTickets.com Interlochen Shakespeare Festival: 28-29

The Interlochen Shakespeare Festival draws on the unique resources of Interlochen Center for the Arts to present bold and innovative interpretations of the classics. Founded in 2008 and led by artistic director William Church, a core ensemble of Interlochen faculty, staff and alumni commits itself to engaging audiences through professional theatre that celebrates the Shakespearean imagination. tickets.interlochen.org

And More

Find more events at MyNorth.com.

Cocktail Classes at The Cooks’ House: 2, 14

June 2: Technique and The Classics, Learn the bar and how to properly make the classics. Some of the drinks covered include Negronis, Old Fashions and Cosmopolitans. We will talk about why these drinks taste so good, and how to make each one of them perfect each and every time.

June 14: Mixology 101, learn how to get comfortable with the art of mixology while making classic cocktails and learning how to create your own. Use seasonal fruits and vegetables with the classics as a baseline. Get creative with syrups, shrubs and juices. MyNorthTickets.com

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUNE ’19

39

UptownTraverseCity.com

CUSTOM LUXURY RIVERFRONT TOWNHOME

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june | events

Crystal Lake

Mid Century Modern Architecture

Athena Grand Traverse: 5

The Zonta Club of Traverse City presents ATHENA Grand Traverse. The ATHENA Award honors any individual who strives toward the highest levels of personal and professional accomplishment, who excel in their chosen field, devotes time and energy to their community in a meaningful way and forge paths of leadership for women to follow. The celebration is from 5-7pm at the Traverse City Country Club. Tickets include social hour, heavy hors d'oeuvres, a cocktail of choice and the award program.

Cash bar will be available. MyNorthTickets.com

Suzy Voltz

(231) 651-9711 suzy.voltz@gmail.com

4 ive • mls 184663 Shorewood Dr

Beach Condo Hotel-Resort • 30 condominiums with a spectacular view of beautiful East Grand Traverse Bay • Private bedroom, living room, fully equipped kitchen, private balcony, sleeps four • Two person jacuzzi bath • High Speed Internet in all condos • 267’ sand beachfront, cabanas, outdoor heated pool & spa • Daily, midweek, weekend & 5 day specials, AAA, CAA & AARP discounts honored.

Chef’s Table at Boyne Highlands: 9

Eat at the best table in the house at Country Club of Boyne! This five-course meal, cooked personally by Country Club of Boyne Chef Dean Grill, showcases seasonal American/local Michigan fare with hints of refined dishes dear to the Chef's heart. Tickets max out at 14 available per Chef's Table event to ensure an intimate and personalized experience. Arrive at 5pm for cocktails on the Ross patio. Dinner starts promptly at 6pm. Plan on 3-4 hours for this exclusive event. MyNorthTickets.com Back to the Bricks: 10

RealEstateOne.com

57 N. Michigan Ave • Beulah • 231-882-4449

1995 U.S. 31 N. Traverse City, MI 800-778-2228 231-938-2228 Fax 231-938-9774 www.beachcondohotel.com

Back to the Bricks is a showcase for classic, custom and collector vehicles of all kinds! This free, family-friendly event takes place on Main Street in Gaylord. Everyone is encouraged to dress for an 80's theme and enjoy live music with Doug Thomas. gaylordmichigan.net Black Star Farms Cajun Shrimp Boil: 13

Seafood boils are a true communal eating tradition that is perfect for celebrating summer. Black Star Farms also features special Seafood Paella Nights, Brunches, BBQs, Pasta Dinners and more paired with their wines by the glass or carafe, hard cider or an extensive list of craft cocktails. Check their website for schedule and additional information. MyNorthTickets.com

Always the unique and unexpected since 1986

In-Water Boat Show: 14-16

Featuring 80+ in-water boats and 30 on-land displays, live music, children's fun. Bay Harbor, Petoskey. bayharbor.com 2019 NOMI FUNdraiser for the Charlevoix Pool: 27

Theme: Then & Now featuring area historical photography and displays, live music by Peter Fetters, vendor booths and shopping, seated lunch, silent and live auctions with Auctioneer Scott MacKenzie. Call or register online. charlevoixpool.org Blessing of the Fleet: 27

The event kicks off with the Blessing of the Fleet, a delightful boat parade on the harbor. Whether by paddle, by oar, by sail or by motor, everyone is welcome to participate in this free event. After the blessing, the Harbor Springs Area Historical Society hosts the Summer’s Launch Celebration fundraising party. harborspringschamber.com

Libby Stallman is calendar editor of Traverse. Enter your event information at MyNorth.com/events two to three months prior to event date. Questions or more information email Libby@mynorth.com.

Leland Blue, Petoskey, & Sterling Silver 112 North Main Street Leland, MI 49654 (231) 256-7747 info@TampicoLelandMi.com FOLLOW US! www.facebook.com/Tampicolelandmi

AtHome-SuttonsBay.com 231.271.4664

405 N St Joseph Suttons Bay, MI 49682

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUNE ’19

41

Mackinaw CITY

! s k r o Firew EVERY FRIDAY NIGHT AT DUSK OVER LAKE HURON Beginning Memorial Day Weekend through Labor Day Weekend

mackinawcity.com • 800-666-0160 42

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what to do | travel

Let’s Go RVing Set up camp at these lakeside RV Parks and let the waves lull you to sleep.

TEXT BY COURTNEY JEROME

Getting outside. Connecting with nature. And still having the luxury of a soft mattress to sleep on. No wonder RVing is a beloved summer tradition in Northern Michigan.

Lake Huron a family favorite. Just two miles from downtown Mackinaw City, campers have easy access to attractions like Colonial Michilimackinac, and it’s a quick drive across the bridge for day trips in the U.P.

LAKE LEELANAU RV PARK, LAKE LEELANAU This family owned and operated campground has 700 feet of frontage on Lake Leelanau, and it certainly caters to water lovers with a large designated swim area, boat launch, gas pump and boat rentals—from pontoons, fishing boats and jet skis to paddle boards, kayaks and canoes. Families also enjoy the wagon rides, movie nights, tennis/pickleball courts and ice cream socials. Plus, free concerts throughout the summer!

OTSEGO LAKE STATE PARK, GAYLORD Six miles south of Gaylord, one of the oldest state parks in Michigan sits on 62 acres along Otsego Lake. The campground has more than a half mile of lake frontage, a boat launch and a floating pier. It’s a popular fishing spot for bluegill, perch, crappie, bass, walleye and northern pike. Accessed near the park’s entrance, the more than 2,000-mile Iron Belle Trail is an added bonus for bikers and hikers. (Recreation passport required.)

LUDINGTON STATE PARK, LUDINGTON Take M-116 north to find Ludington State Park. Nestled between Lake Michigan and Lake Hamlin (with access to both!) you’ll find three modern campgrounds. The park sits on 5,300 acres of scenic sand dunes, beaches and forests with 21 miles of marked hiking trails. More things to do: climb to the top of Big Sable Point Lighthouse, check out interpretive exhibits at the Lake Michigan beach house and tube Big Sable River. (Recreation passport required.)

TEE PEE CAMPGROUND, MACKINAW CITY Imagine waking up to a view of the Mighty Mac. That’s what campers get every morning at Tee Pee Campground located on the Straits of Mackinac. Nightly bonfires and free shuttles to Mackinac Island ferries make this private campground on

NORTH & SOUTH HIGGINS LAKE STATE PARKS, ROSCOMMON Spring-fed Higgins Lake is home to two state parks. South Higgins’ 400 hardwood-shaded modern campsites make it the second largest campground in a state park in Michigan.

North Higgins offers a relaxing setting with a boat launch, popular swimming beach and more than eight miles of trails.

Sitting on what was once one of the world’s largest seedling nurseries, it’s also home to a museum that tells the rich history of forestry in Michigan. Both state parks are a 15-minute drive to downtown Grayling and the Village of Roscommon for off-site exploring. (Recreation passport required.)

MAGNUS PARK CAMPGROUND, PETOSKEY Located on 1,000 feet of Little Traverse Bay shoreline, Magnus State Park is only four blocks from downtown Petoskey.

Campers have quick access to shops, restaurants, the Little Traverse Wheelway and the North Country Trail. Thirtysix sites are full-hookups, and you’ll find both a playground and bike path on the property. Soak in Lake Michigan views from Wayside Park—a beautiful overlook.

BONUS: THE RIVERHOUSE, TRAVERSE CITY Think Airbnb, but for campers. Hipcamp.com lists RV properties across the U.S. In Traverse City, The Riverhouse has four campsites (without hookups) available to rent along the Boardman River. Talk about a great location for kayaking!

Courtney Jerome and her husband, Josh, have two young boys who love to splash in Lake Leelanau. A former award-winning TV producer at WCMU, senior web editor for MyNorth Media and station manager of UpNorthTV, Courtney has now started her own media company. courtneyjeromemedia.com

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JUN ’19

43

essay | up in michigan

The Strawberry House Neighbors gawking at my brimming bowls as they walked by cheerfully called me the Strawberry Queen.

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY EMILY BINGHAM

The little blue house at the end of the dead-end street was so freshly mine that the “SOLD” sign was still staked in the front yard, but already I was thinking about where to plant the strawberries.

I hadn’t known that at the outset, that summer I worked on a Lake Leelanau farm, that strawberries would become significant for me. I did realize, early into my time as a farmhand, they were something special. For starters, of all the tasks I was assigned in the dewy mornings at the farm, working the berries’ lush green beds was never one of them. Maybe that’s what had initially intrigued me: The way the strawberries were treated like horticultural gold, to be tended to only by veteran workers who had put in the time to earn that delicate chore. But then, of course, there was the way they tasted. These were not the oversized, gauzy grocery-store strawberries I had dipped into powdered sugar as a child. These were dense and succulent and almost perfumed, so ripe they’d instantly crush to jam in your mouth. I was 25 and hadn’t known food could be transcendent.

At that age, though, I was restless, so I didn’t stick around long Up North. I pivoted my life instead to a nomadic chapter where each new spring found me in a new city and a new home. I was driven by the freedom of being young and untethered, but also by the

fidgety feeling that the here and now was never quite enough. It seemed the grass was always greener elsewhere, and I chased it, so afraid of settling in with myself that I stopped bothering to hang pictures on every new set of walls.

But my short stint on the farm had seeded something in my heart: A passion for gardening. Through all the inner and outer unrest in the years after I left Northern Michigan, growing food became a calming constant, and so I did it in every way my unrooted lifestyle allowed: On back porches and window sills, in buckets and sawed-open beer cans, and even sometimes in the actual earth after pleading with landlords to let me dig up parts of their lawn. With each year I became more confident in my skills, but also more frustrated that my incessant wandering meant I was limited to greens and vegetables; I couldn’t plant fruit, or anything else that needed more than a single season to get established. The memory of those farm-grown strawberries shone in my mind every time I thumbed through another gardening catalog’s glossy pages.

I was living a life based on annuals, I realized. I wanted perennials. I wanted to invest in something enduring, to grow something sweet.

I bought that little blue house.

It was a WWII-era ranch, with a dated kitchen and its sole bathroom in

terrible shape, but the thing I’d fixated on was the sun-drenched front yard just waiting for my spade. The strawberries, I decided, would go in the grassy city strip between the sidewalk and the street, in four-by-eight raised beds. I ordered starter plants from my favorite catalog, delighting in the varieties’ glittering names: Jewel, Sparkle, Honeoye.

I watered them in and waited one year.

The flowers came first, white and five-petaled, with yellowish centers that gave way to the fruit’s small, green, stone-hard early shape. Weeks passed and the tiny things grew, plumping up before flushing with the first hints of red. By early June—my first anniversary in the home—a single berry had ripened ahead of the others. When it felt ready I plucked it from its stem, carried it into my house and sat down before putting it in my mouth. The burst of sweet juice took me back Up North. My eyes shut and I smiled, out of pleasure and pride.

Another June came, and another. The strawberry plants flourished. I painted the kitchen, re-tiled the bathroom, hung up pictures, picked staggering heaps of strawberries that I gave away to neighbors and tucked into my mailbox, flipping up the outgoing mail flag, for my mailman, Dale, to find. I liked how the strawberries made it easy to make friends, but I also liked picking the fruit alone in the evenings, when it felt like4

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JUN ’19

45

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essay | up in michigan

meditation: working the beds as dusk fell and fireflies rose up in the cool air around me. When it’d get too dark to see I’d head inside with my harvest, wiping my dirt-dusted hands on my jeans before settling in and eating the berries plain, straight out of my palm.

By the fifth June, it felt like I knew almost everything there was to know about growing strawberries—including that they don’t last forever. The berries were smaller and fewer by then; the beds were tired, the plants nearing the end of their five- to six-year lifespan. If you want a vigorous, continuous crop, I had learned, you must eventually move the plants, where they can sink their feet into fresh earth and start the cycle anew.

I could have built new beds, cleared space for future plantings, but the summer of my garden’s last hurrah found my life pivoting once again: I had fallen in love. This was love like a Lake Leelanau strawberry—at once simple and sublime, unlike anything I’d tasted before. Of course, the great gift of my time in my home was that I’d finally come to realize the grass was plenty green right where I stood—or knelt, really, in the soft black soil of the garden I’d shaped with my own hands. But my heart told me this was worth another uprooting. We moved in together; a rental for now, but with sunny space for growing some greens.

At the heart of every strawberry plant is a knotty central stem; it’s called the crown. I loved that fact when I first planted them, and I found it poetic when I began clearing them out of the beds, scraggly and finally spent, in preparation to sell my home this spring. These crowns had proven to be priceless treasure, bearing not only fruit but witness to a quietly remarkable season of my life. I would gladly plant them again.

Emily Bingham writes from the Ann Arbor area. emilyebingham.com

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RED HOT BEST // NORTHERN MICHIGAN 2019

R NOMI U O Y D E R HO SHA W FALL ) !

O U T O S Y N F O O AS LL 15,349 T 101 RE A S ( U J U S O ' Y E .

THANK TES. HER N EARTH O O V E R C U A O L P ITH Y HE BEST T H PRIDE W T I W E OT) LOV H D E R ON ( IN Y SIMPS EL TEXT BY

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S AN EDWARD H T E B A IZ

D C AR L

BLUEST INLAND LAKE Torch Lake The perennial Red Hot Best winner for this true-blue category. Torch folks say you just can’t stop drinking it in. »»Crystal Lake (2)

PHOTO: ANDY WAKEMAN

»»Glen Lake (3)

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | JUN '19

49

RED HOT BEST // NORTHERN MICHIGAN 2019

FISHING CHARTER BOAT CAPTAIN Dave Rommell, Tiny Bubbles Charter, Frankfort Captain Rommell guarantees you’ll come back with a catch. Fish on. »»Bill Wright, Leland Fishing, Leland (2)

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PHOTO: JESSE GREEN

»»Chien Nowland, Nauti-Cat, Traverse City (3)

EVENTS BEER EVENT Suds & Snow, Traverse City They call it the Ultimate Party in the Woods—and it would be hard to think of a better one. A half-mile hike, snowshoe or ski into the woods earns you live music, food vendors, 20+ craft breweries, all around a roaring bonfire. »»Short's Fest, Elk Rapids (2) »»Michigan Beer and Brat Festival, Crystal Mountain (3)

WINTER EVENT

COCKTAIL LOUNGE

Restaurant Week, Traverse City Three-course menus feature everything from smash burgers and birthday cake to braised beef cheek and bacon vanilla custard beignets. How’s that for a winter survival kit... »»Suds & Snow, Traverse City (2)

The Parlor, Traverse City Intimate rustic-industrial vibe, authentic craft cocktails (try The Smoke Stack: aged bourbon, maple syrup, woodsmoke infusion), way kicked-up bar food (lobster pomodoro!). What are you doing Saturday night?

»»Iceman Cometh Challenge, Traverse City (3)

»»Iron Fish Distillery, Thompsonville (2) »»Low Bar, Traverse City (3)

FOOD, DRINK & RESTAURANTS

COFFEE ROASTERY

BAKERY CHARITY RUN OR RACE Bayshore Marathon, Traverse City For 35 years it’s been how you prove your mettle in Traverse City. Marathon, half-marathon, 10K and, new this year, a kids marathon. Views of the bay help ease the pain.

9 Bean Rows, Suttons Bay Alchemists turn flour, sugar, salt and natural leavens into croissants, brioche, baguettes and other melt-in-your-mouth gold. »»Bay Bread Co., Traverse City (2)

Higher Grounds, Traverse City Turning coffee into the circle of life: They source organic beans from globally diverse small-scale farmers; You fuel your day with one fine cup o’ java; They give back to their growers. »»Leelanau Coffee Roasting Co., Glen Arbor (2) »»Roast & Toast, Petoskey (3)

»»Grand Traverse Pie Company (3)

DINER BREAKFAST SPOT

»»Zombie Run, Traverse City (2) »»Turkey Trot, Traverse City (3)

BBQ RIBS

DOWNTOWN HOLIDAY TREE LIGHTING

Sparks BBQ, Traverse City Authentic wood-powered BBQ. Don’t wear white.

Traverse City The tradition of gathering ’round the tree at Cass and Front to watch as the switch is flipped is even better with the recent addition of a downright awesome light parade. Be there.

»»Blue Tractor, Traverse City (2)

Omelette Shoppe, Traverse City Experts in folding delicious and unexpected ingredients between eggs since 1975. Where do YOU want to go to breakfast?

»»Pigs Eatin' Ribs, Charlevoix (3)

»»Red Spire Brunch House, Traverse City (2)

See caption on page 52

DOG FRIENDLY BAR/ RESTAURANT

»»Manistee Sleighbell Parade and Old Christmas Weekend (2)

BRUNCH SPOT

See caption on page 62

»»Ludington (3)

SUMMER EVENT National Cherry Festival, Traverse City Nothing tastes better than cherry pie and Gibby’s Fries after a good ol' pit-spitting contest at this granddaddy of NoMi festivals. (FYI, the world record pitspitting distance is 95 feet, 6.5 inches.

Start practicing.) »»Traverse City Film Festival (2) »»4th of July, Ludington (3)

WINE EVENT Great Mac & Cheese Bake-Off, Wineries of Old Mission Peninsula Tickets sell out within minutes for this irresistible day of cheesy comfort food paired with local wines. »»Leland Wine and Food Festival (2)

»»J&S Hamburg, Downtown Traverse City (3)

BOYNE CITY RESTAURANT

Pâtisserie Amie, Traverse City Late morning: Order up an espresso (keep your shades on), linger over choices. Fresh beignets? Steak frites avec des ouefs? Sip a raspberry mimosa.

Sais la vie en rose, n’est-ce pas?

ELK RAPIDS RESTAURANT

»»Towne Plaza, Traverse City (T3)

Pearl's New Orleans Kitchen Get your Cajun Creole on—bayou alligator, Louisiana jambalaya, crawfish, fried green tomatoes, po’boys, oyster shooters, moonshine—with the warm embrace of Up North hospitality.

»»Hofbrau, Interlochen (T3)

»»Siren Hall (2)

»»Red Spire Brunch House, Traverse City (2)

»»Riverwalk Grill and Taproom (3)

BURGER Slabtown Burgers, Traverse City Get in line—it’s worth it—on the deck of this funky little home-turned restaurant for these perfectly juicy burgers.

Scarf one right away with hand-cut fries.

Then take a brown paper bag of ’em home for dinner and make the fam's night.

FARM STAND

»»Bubba's, Traverse City (2)

»»9 Bean Rows Farm, Suttons Bay (2)

»»Art's Tavern, Glen Arbor (3)

»»Friske Farm Market, Charlevoix (3)

Gallagher’s Farm Market and Bakery, Traverse City Brake for brake lights on M72 just west of Traverse City. Then follow that car into this beloved motherlode of fresh fruit, veggies and baked goods. (Fall’s pumpkin doughnuts are epic.)

»»Downtown Traverse City Art Walk (3)

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | JUN '19

51

RED HOT BEST // NORTHERN MICHIGAN 2019

BOYNE CITY RESTAURANT Cafe Santé This European-style bistro cozied up next to Lake Charlevoix is ooh la la, right down to the moules-frites. »»Red Mesa Grill (2) »»Boyne City Tap Room (3)

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MyNorth.com

FOOD TRUCK Happy's Taco Shop Two men and a truck—and now another truck, showing NoMi how to make stellar tacos (guys, they ferment their own hot sauce!) and live large at the same time.

LOCAL DINING DEALS AND SPECIALS Mama Lu's $2 Tuesday, Traverse City $2 each from Labor Day to Memorial Day: Chef’s choice taco, pork rind, beer and whiskey shot.

»»Roaming Harvest (2)

»»Bubba Time, Bubba's, Traverse City (2)

»»White on Rice (3)

»»Antrim 25, Short’s Brewing Company, Bellaire (3)

FUDGE SHOP Doug Murdick’s Fudge, Traverse City & Acme A part of the royal Northern Michigan fudge lineage (it all began with a Murdick on Mackinac Island in the 1800s), Doug Murdick’s Fudge has been doing it right since 1964: copper kettle, to marble slab, to your mouth. »»Kilwins, Traverse City (2)

LOCAL HARD CIDER Left Foot Charley, Cinnamon Girl, Traverse City Fresh apples from two farms on Old Mission Peninsula create this classic beauty with a warm and bubbly personality. »»Tandem Ciders, Smackintosh, Suttons Bay (2) »»St. Ambrose Cellars, Xr Cyser, Beulah (3)

»»Murdick’s Fudge, Mackinac Island (3)

HAPPY HOUR The Parlor, Traverse City From 4–7 p.m., seven days a week: Halfoff drinks and 25 percent off the food menu. Yes, this makes us happy.

LOCAL PIZZA PLACE

»»Red Ginger, Traverse City (2)

»»That'sa Pizza, 4 Locations, Traverse City & Acme (2)

»»Firefly, Traverse City (3)

The Filling Station, Traverse City Is it a pizzeria that brews great beer or a brewery that makes unreal pizza?

»»Peegeo's, Traverse City (3)

LEELANAU RESTAURANT Hop Lot Brewing Co., Suttons Bay Your tasting menu ... First: expertly brewed ale. Second: slow smoked meats (piled mile-high on brioche or on nachos) Third: s’mores by the campfire. Fourth: thank your lucky stars for a perfect night in the beer garden. »»Art's Tavern, Glen Arbor (2)

Chateau Grand Traverse, Late Harvest Riesling From the founding winery of Old Mission Peninsula comes this great take on a local fave. Hints of apricot, melon, honey. »»Black Star Farms, Arcturos Late Harvest Riesling (2)

»»Boone’s Prime Time Pub, Suttons Bay (3)

»»Chateau Chantal, Late Harvest Riesling (3)

LOCAL BRATS (SAUSAGES, NOT KIDS)

LOCAL ROSÉ

Maxbauer, Traverse City The dog days of summer call for these snappy, irresistible brats made by a certified master sausage maker.

Break out the buns, hun.

Mawby, Grace Juicy berry and cherry with a clean, crisp finish. End your beach day here. »»Black Star Farms, Arcturos Rosé (2) »»Brys Estate, Signature Rosé (3)

»»Pleva's, Cedar (2)

LOCAL SOUR BEER

»»Burritt's Fresh Markets, Traverse City (3)

Tandem Ciders, Suttons Bay Snag a picnic table beside the bright white barn turned cherished cidery, and order a winningly crisp Smackintosh.

Peachy Pom Pom, Short's Brewing Company Brewed with wild bacteria and yeast, peaches and pomegranates, Short’s describes this as a huge and tangy … we swear it tastes like “crank up the tunes and dance.”

»»St. Ambrose Cellars, Beulah (2)

»»La Roja, Jolly Pumpkin (2)

»»Left Foot Charley, Traverse City (3)

»»Watermelon Gose, Rare Bird Brewpub (3)

LOCAL CIDERY

PHOTO: JESSE GREEN

LOCAL RIESLING

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | JUN '19

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RED HOT BEST // NORTHERN MICHIGAN 2019

Kurt Johnson, Jon’s Barber Shop, Suttons Bay One of the sharpest scissor-hands east of the Mississippi, Kurt has found a fitting home (alongside Paul MacWilliams, Chip Smith and Mike Hill, pictured) at this classic Up North establishment. »»Allie Waite, Jude’s, Traverse City (2) »»Lindsay Pastor, M.O. Hair & Beauty Lounge (3)

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PHOTO: JESSE GREEN

BARBER SHOP

LOCAL SPARKLING WINE

NEW WINERY

ROOFTOP DINING

Mawby, Sex This provocative bubbly blend of pinot noir, chardonnay and Muscat grapes has become so synonymous with a good time that we can finally say its name without blushing.

Amoritas, Lake Leelanau The name means love and truth, and truthfully you will love the Goodell family who own this vineyard/winery/tasting room with soulful white wines.

The Franklin, Traverse City String lights twinkle overhead and bustling Front Street offers endless people watching. Pair with house-made charcuterie and a craft cocktail.

»»Two K Farms, Suttons Bay (2)

»»Hotel Indigo, Traverse City (2)

»»WaterFire, Kewadin (3)

»»Boone's Prime Time Pub, Suttons Bay (3)

PETOSKEY RESTAURANT

SKI RESORT PROPERTY RESTAURANT

»»Mawby, Blanc de Blanc (2) »»Black Star Farms, Bedazzled (3)

LOCALLY DISTILLED WHISKEY TC Whiskey Co., Straight Bourbon Whiskey A smooth, smoky, caramel and cocoa swallow. Yesssss. »»Iron Fish Distillery, Bourbon Whiskey Finished in Maple Syrup Barrels (2) »»Traverse City Whiskey, Cherry Whiskey (3)

City Park Grill Slip away to a storied building where tales of prohibition (underground tunnels!) and Ernest Hemingway flavor the relaxed vibes and eclectic menu.

Thistle Pub and Grille, Crystal Mountain Dip those famous truffle butter Thistle fries in roasted garlic aioli and everything will be okay.

»»Beards Brewery (2)

»»Nub's Pub, Nub's Nob (2)

»»Chandler’s (3)

»»Wild Tomato, Crystal Mountain (3)

PETOSKEY WINE REGION

SOFT-SERVE ICE CREAM SHOP

(FORMERLY BAY VIEW WINE TRAIL)

See caption on page 58

»»Barley & Rye, Ludington (2)

Pond Hill Farm Vineyard & Winery, Harbor Springs To discover what’s distinct about Michigan’s newest wine region, make sure this relaxed, sunny farm and its estate-grown wine is on your list. Grab a glass of Lakeview Rosé and wander the vineyards...you’ll want to stay all day.

»»Short’s Brewing Company, Bellaire (3)

»»Walloon Lake Winery, Petoskey (2)

MAC ’N’ CHEESE Blue Tractor, Traverse City Step 1. Smoke a pig. Step 2. Blend the tender shoulder meat with tangy BBQ sauce, macaroni and smoked Gouda béchamel sauce. Step 3. Swoon.

STORE FOR LOCAL BREWS The Beverage Company, Traverse City After 25 years in business, and with a name like Beverage Co., this team knows bevies. Special requests? Just ask. »»Lake Ann Grocery, Lake Ann (2) »»Tilley's Party Store, Traverse City (3)

TACO

»»Mackinaw Trail Winery, Petoskey (3)

MARQUETTE RESTAURANT

Carnitas, Spanglish Corn tortillas are topped with roasted pork, shredded cabbage, salsa verde, chopped onion and feta cheese.

Order three. Eat with glee.

Portside Inn A tavern that combines the down-home folksiness of the UP with Marquette’s enlightened ’tude (as in plenty of locally sourced ingredients). A fave since 1983.

PLACE TO GROUP WINE TASTE

»»Iron Bay Tap Room (2)

»»Bowers Harbor Vineyards, Old Mission Peninsula (2)

»»Tacos, Agave Mexican Grill (3)

»»Mawby, Suttons Bay (3)

WHITEFISH DIP

PLACE TO STOP FOR A BITE OR DRINK ON TUNNEL OF TREES ROUTE

Carlson’s Fisheries, Leland Made with fresh whitefish caught and smoked outside their door … Lake Michigan on a cracker.

»»The Vierling (3)

Black Star Farms, Suttons Bay Tell your friends: the home of some of the world’s best riesling lies at the end of this winding drive.

»»Fish Taco, Mama Lu’s (2)

MEAT MARKET Maxbauer, Traverse City A real cut-up (read: their billboards) outfitted with small town service and legendary meats. »»Burritt's Fresh Markets, Traverse City (2) »»Ebels, Falmouth (3)

NEW RESTAURANT (OPENED IN 2018 OR LATER) The Good Bowl, Traverse City Vietnamese classics like phở and bánh mì drive the menu, but the wings and spicy lime chili sauce steal the show.

Legs Inn, Cross Village This quirky restaurant is as iconic as M119. Go for the kielbasa. Stay for the Lake Michigan sunset.

»»Burritt’s Fresh Markets, Traverse City (2)

»»Pond Hill Farm, Harbor Springs (2)

Blue Goat Wine & Provisions, Traverse City Built in the 1880s, this iconic building was probably TC's first general store.

130+ years later, people still visit for necessities, you know—wine and artisan snacks.

»»Apache Trout Grill, Traverse City (3)

WINE STORE FOR LOCAL BOTTLES

»»Good Hart General Store, Good Hart (3)

RESTAURANT YOU CAN BOAT TO

»»Robby’s Mexican & Spanish Cuisine (Garfield location) Traverse City (2)

Dockside, Torch Lake Tie up your craft at this goodtime watering hole for a signature Dockburger or perch sandwich.

»»Wren, Suttons Bay (3)

»»Knot Just A Bar, Omena (2)

»»The Beverage Company, Traverse City (2) »»Burritt’s Fresh Markets, Traverse City (3)

»»Apache Trout Grill, Traverse City (3)

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | JUN '19

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RED HOT BEST // NORTHERN MICHIGAN 2019

BARTENDER/MIXOLOGIST Chellsey Avalos, Paddle Hard Brewing, Grayling She makes a point to get to know every customer who comes through the door and what they like. Remembers you when you come back. Has your refill before you ask. Cheers, Chellsey! »»Kelly Savich, Barley and Rye, Ludington (2)

PHOTO: JESSE GREEN

»»Tommy Nakhovanh, The Parlor, Traverse City (3)

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PEOPLE BARBER See caption on page 54

BARTENDER/MIXOLOGIST See caption at left

LOCAL TV NEWS TEAM 9&10 Covering all corners of the North and its stories—big, cool, curious and sweet.

Special shout out to Michelle Dunaway: Thanks for shining your camera and your smile on Traverse Magazine every month on the The Four!

BUILDER

»»7&4 (2)

Socks Construction, Traverse City The firm’s mantra: A desire to create spectacular architectural spaces that connect people to their communities and to nature. TC thanks you, Socks.

»»Michigan This Morning, Fox 32 (3)

»»Paul Maurer General Contracting, Traverse City (3)

FISHING CHARTER BOAT CAPTAIN

»»Wally Kidd, Kidd & Leavy Real Estate, Walloon Lake (2)

»»Shugart Builders, Traverse City (2)

See caption on page 50

»»Keith Kucynski, Ludington High School (2)

»»Honor Bank, Honor (3)

»»Jan Clark, Shanty Creek Resort (3)

MacKenzie Bickel, Mt. Holiday Race Team The Jr. Olympic podium finisher, MidAmerica Cup winner, US Development Team member and US Nationals qualifier has come full circle coaching local youth.

Bay Area Pet Hospital, Dr. Whitney Jencka Dr. Whitney has two pets: Mae, an unreasonably smart mixed breed dog, and Brick, a talkative cat. She’s ready for whatever hairball your pet throws. »»Dr. Kathryn Cochran, Suttons Bay Animal Hospital (2) »»Dr. Jennifer Klabunde, Northwood Animal Hospital (3)

LOCAL SOLO MUSICIAN

»»Joshua Davis, Traverse City (2) »»Miriam Pico, Traverse City (3)

»»Petoskey State Park, Petoskey (2) »»Point Betsie Lighthouse Beach, Frankfort (3)

BEACH TO BRING DOG

VETERINARIAN

Levi Britton, Traverse City When this Traverse City native and music legend (he’s toured with the Gin Blossoms, Pat Benatar, Peter Frampton, America, Lighthouse and way more) faced a life-threatening illness this winter, his hometown responded by putting his GoFundMe page over goal.

Check out his FB page to see where he’ll be performing this summer. Glad you’re back at it, Levi!

Van's Beach, Leland The only challenge here? To remember to look down, what with Leland Harbor, North Manitou Island and Lake Michigan snagging your attention.

»»Dana Frank, Nub’s Nob (2)

»»Seth Kilbourn, Roscommon High School (3)

»»Mike, Christal, and Joel WTCM (3)

PLACES

BEACH FOR ROCK HUNTING SKI INSTRUCTOR

»»Interlochen Public Radio (2)

»»Allen-Kent Photography, Traverse City (T3)

»»TBA Credit Union, Traverse City (2)

»»Weston Buchan, Coldwell Banker Schmidt Realtors, Traverse City (3)

Chad Mielens, Traverse City West Senior High Pretty impressive, Mr. Mielens, given this was your first year at TC West! Principal Joe Esper tells us what you’re doing right: “Students like him because he pushes them to get better in a calm, respectful and supportive way.” We like your style.

Mikey Zeroe & Chase Grant, 104.5 BOB FM These two pledged to chug an entire bottle of hot sauce if they won our Red Hot Best contest. Okay Northern Michigan, let’s hold ’em to it!

»»Exposures by Rah, Interlochen (T3)

4Front Credit Union, Traverse City Members love their hometown approach combined with cutting-edge financial tools. They also appreciate the 4Front mission: To reward members, not to make money for shareholders.

HIGH SCHOOL BAND DIRECTOR

LOCAL RADIO HOST OR TEAM

»»Windborne Photographic Studios, Traverse City (2)

BANK OR FINANCIAL INSTITUTION

REALTOR Holly Hack EXIT Realty Paramount, Traverse City Contemporary? Classic? Country?

Cottage? Count on Holly to make your real estate wishes come true.

Arts make Andrejka a standout. More importantly: She’ll teach your wedding party to tap dance.

Good Harbor Beach, Good Harbor You will throw that stick and throw that stick and throw that stick … good thing this sandy stretch of bliss is so beautiful. »»Esch Road Beach, Empire (2) »»Elberta Beach, Elberta (3)

BEST PLACE TO GET A LOCAL T-SHIRT M22, Traverse City As they say, it’s not a road, or even a T-shirt. It’s a lifestyle. »»High Five Threads, Traverse City (2)

WEDDING FLORIST Victoria's Floral Design, Benzonia Fulfilling floral fantasies for almost 20 years, this one-stop shop also offers decor rentals and wedding planning packages. »»The Blossom Shop, Traverse City (2) »»Floral Underground, Traverse City (3)

»»Tee See Tee, Traverse City (3)

BLACK DIAMOND SKI HILL Buck, Crystal Mountain Manicured slope (unless it’s a pow day) perfect for long arching turns and enough pitch to make things exciting.

Insider’s tip: Even late on that powder day, find it fresh by the lift towers.

WEDDING PHOTOGRAPHER

»»Scarface, Nub's Nob (2)

Andrejka Photography, Petoskey An affinity for working with people combined with her background in Fine

»»Gorge, Crystal Mountain (3)

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | JUN '19

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RED HOT BEST // NORTHERN MICHIGAN 2019

SOFT-SERVE ICE CREAM SHOP Moomers, Traverse City Serving the classics—vanilla, chocolate, twist—plus 160 creative hard serve combos while happy cows and kids moo outside. »»Bardon's Wonder Freeze, Traverse City (2) »»Dairy Lodge, Traverse City (3)

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CAMPGROUND

GIFT SHOP FOR SOUVENIRS

Ludington State Park, Ludington Three campgrounds stretch out beside sandy beaches, scenic dunes, lush forests and a lighthouse. Fish, paddle, tube, hike, swim—stop for s’mores—repeat.

Nifty Things, Traverse City, Suttons Bay, Alden, Elk Rapids The place to go to for the perfect gift, times two. One for me, and one for you.

Nifty Things has it all and way more.

»»D.H. Day Campground, Glen Arbor (2)

»»Cherry Republic, Traverse City, Glen Arbor (2)

»»Platte River Campground, Honor (3)

»»My Secret Stash, Traverse City (3)

CAR DEALERSHIP

GROUP TRANSPORTATION COMPANY

Serra, Traverse City Folks applaud this large inventory of new and used Subaru, Toyota, Nissan, VW, Audi, Cadillac and Volvo. Great website lets you shop in your jammies. »»Fox Grand Traverse (BMW, Ford, Lincoln, Mercedes) (2)

»»BATA, Traverse City (2)

»»Bill Marsh Buick GMC, Traverse City (3)

»»Benzie Bus, Honor (3)

CONSERVANCY PRESERVE

HAIR SALON

Arcadia Dunes, Grand Traverse Regional Land Conservancy Find 15 miles of hiking and biking trails in this exquisite mix of dunes, forests and Lake Michigan overlooks.

Salon Verve, Traverse City Thanks to this team of holistic stylists for keeping us beautiful AND healthy.

TC grooves on your mad skills and nontoxic, organic products.

»»Whaleback Natural Area, Leelanau Conservancy (2)

»»Epiphany Salon (East & Downtown Traverse City) (2)

»»Brown Bridge Quiet Area, Grand Traverse Conservation District (3)

»»Impres Salon & Spa, Traverse City (3)

HOTEL/INN/RESORT WITH A VIEW

CROSS COUNTRY SKI TRAIL Vasa Pathway, Traverse City Play loop-de-loop on bike, skis or your feet on these 25K+ of trails that wind through a state forest. Also, the hub of two well-known events: The North American Festival of Races and the Iceman Cometh Mountain Bike Challenge.

Grand Hotel, Mackinac Island Rock the day away, gazing at two Great Lakes, the Mackinac Bridge and the Michigan mainland.

»»Sleeping Bear Dunes, Empire (2)

HVAC/HEATING & COOLING COMPANY

»»Hotel Indigo, Traverse City (2) »»Falling Waters Lodge, Leland (3)

»»Doe's Delight, Crystal Mountain (3)

FINE ART GALLERY Twisted Fish Gallery, Elk Rapids Welcome all: serious collectors, casual art lovers and folks who want to soak up the color and beauty of this gallery and sculpture garden. »»Oliver Art Center, Frankfort (2)

PHOTO: JON-PAUL ALLGAIER

Traverse City Wine & Beer Tours Going out on the town all tuxedo and heels? They have your chariot. Looking for a ’70s school bus? They have you covered. A ride for every vibe.

Team Bob's, Traverse City Others may let us down, but for 35 years, Team Bob’s has been keeping our homes warm in the winter, cool in the summer, our sinks running and toilets flushing.

We all need a Team Bob’s in our corner. »»Precision Plumbing and Heating, Traverse City (2)

»»Dennos Museum Center, Traverse City (3)

»»D&W Mechanical, Traverse City (3)

FITNESS STUDIO/GYM

LANDSCAPING CO.

Grand Traverse Bay YMCA Child care, three locations and enough fitness classes to spell no excuse. Yep, as they say, Access for All. »»Yen Yoga & Fitness, Traverse City (2)

Zimmerman Landscaping, Traverse City From your grandma’s petunias to your backyard oasis, this family-owned company has been helping to pretty up NoMi since 1929. A big, green thumb’s up.

»»Planet Fitness, Traverse City (3)

»»Pine Hill Nursery, Traverse City, Kewadin (2) »»Crystal Gardens, Frankfort (3)

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | JUN '19

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RED HOT BEST // NORTHERN MICHIGAN 2019

PLACE TO TAKE AN INSTAGRAM Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore Sunsets at Overlook #9. Brilliant blue views at Empire Bluff.

A slow-mo tumble down the Dune Climb. Take your pick of epic pics. »»Empire Bluff Trail Overlook (2) »»Fishtown, Leland (3)

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PHOTO: TAYLOR BROWN

LOCAL THRIFT STORE/RESALE SHOP

PILATES / YOGA STUDIO

Zany Consignment Boutique, Traverse City Boho? Wide-brimmed hat? A chic clutch? Find your style at this hip consignment shop on Vine Street in Traverse City’s historic Slabtown district and now a second location on US 31 in Williamsburg. »»Mrs. O’s Crap Shack, Interlochen (2) »»Women’s Resource Center, Traverse City (3)

MINI GOLF COURSE

Yen Yoga & Fitness, Traverse City Classes offered in their downtown studio, countryside vineyards and among blooming lavender fields. »»Yoga Roots and Healing Arts, Petoskey (2) »»Cynthia Lang Pilates, Ludington (3)

PLACE FOR TEAM TRIVIA Stormcloud Brewing Co., Frankfort What mammal lays eggs? We have no idea. But we do know Fun Guv’nr Black IPA goes great with honey sriracha popcorn.

Pirate's Cove Adventure Park, Traverse City Putt your way through dreaded dungeons, across creaking footbridges and past cascading waterfalls—if you dare!

»»Rare Bird Brewpub, Traverse City (2)

»»Crystal Falls Mini Golf, Benzonia (2)

Miner’s North Jewelers, Traverse City The store’s signature Lakeshore Diamond has 108 facets (most round brilliant diamonds have 58). Yes, it’s sparkly.

»»Right Brain Brewery, Traverse City (3)

PLACE TO BUY AN ENGAGEMENT RING

»»Pirate's Cove Adventure Golf, Petoskey (3)

MOST SCENIC LIGHTHOUSE Point Betsie Lighthouse, Frankfort This pinup girl of Great Lakes lighthouses is more than a pretty face. Check out her gorgeous beach and dark and stormy past. »»Mission Point Lighthouse, Traverse City (2) »»Big Sable Point Lighthouse, Ludington (3)

MOUNTAIN BIKING TRAIL Vasa Single Track, Supply Road, Traverse City Up, down, all around on forested loops of up to 25K on this quad-burning grandaddy of Northern Michigan mountain bike trails. »»TART Trail (2) »»Glacier Hills Pathway, Bellaire (3)

OUTDOOR ICE SKATING RINK 14th Street, Traverse City It’s all hockey all the time at 14th and Pine where kids in pads have the Wings on their brains.

»»Becky Thatcher Designs, Glen Arbor (2) »»CC Jewelers, Traverse City (3)

PLACE TO GOLF 9 HOLES Crystal Mountain, Thompsonville Golf Course Superintendent Jason Farah has prepped courses for the U.S. Open, PGA Championship and Ryder Cup. Expect gorgeous greens. »»Grand Traverse Resort and Spa, Acme (2) »»Interlochen Golf Course, Interlochen (3)

PLACE TO HEAR LIVE MUSIC Interlochen Center for the Arts, Interlochen Jewel, Nora Jones and Josh Groban all spent time at this lakeside campus. You should, too. World-class artists and performances hosted year-round. »»Lake Ann Brewing Co., Lake Ann (2) »»Short’s Brewing Co., Bellaire (3)

»»Suttons Bay Ice Skating Park (2)

PLACE TO TAKE AN INSTAGRAM

»»Crystal Mountain, Thompsonville (3)

See caption at left

PET-FRIENDLY LODGING

PUMPKIN PATCH

Crystal Mountain, Thompsonville You’re going to love The Waffle Cabin and spa. Fido’s going to love the trails and disc golf course.

Pahl’s Pumpkin Patch, Buckley Pick some pumpkins, pet some goats, sip some hot cider. Get your country on here.

»»Timber Ridge Resort, Traverse City (2)

»»Gallagher's Farm Market, Traverse City (2)

»»Falling Waters Lodge, Leland (3)

»»Jacob's Corn Maze, Traverse City (3)

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | JUN '19

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RED HOT BEST // NORTHERN MICHIGAN 2019

DOG FRIENDLY BAR/RESTAURANT The Little Fleet, Traverse City Owners Allison and Gary Jonas don’t discriminate—two-legs, four-legs, three-legs—everyone has a license to chill at this hip food truck lot/bar. »»The Filling Station, Traverse City (2)

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PHOTO: JESSE GREEN

»»Short’s Brewing Company, Bellaire (3)

SLEIGH RIDE Ranch Rudolph, Traverse City Cue “Jingle Bells”: Belgians Prince and Monte (2,200 pounds of grace and love each) pull your sleigh through the Boardman River Valley and along the Boardman River. »»Black Horse Farm, Empire (2) »»Crystal Mountain, Thompsonville (3)

SMALL-TOWN “MAIN STREET” (SMALLER THAN TRAVERSE CITY) Main Street, Frankfort A legendary craft brewery, historic theater and local eateries and shops lead all the way to a sandy Lake Michigan beach. »»St. Joseph Street, Suttons Bay (2) »»River Street, Elk Rapids (3)

SNOWMOBILE TRAIL Ranch Rudolf, Traverse City Two hundred miles of trails, a dedicated fleet of groomers and a Western style ranch to warm up in set in the middle.

That’s a winner winter weekend. »»Benzie County Trailhead, Benzonia (2) »»Jordan Valley, East Jordan (3)

TEENSY TOWN Frankfort With one of the best sandy beaches, breweries and movie theaters in the Great Lakes, this smidge-of-a-town is a hands-down big shot. »»Leland (2) »»Suttons Bay (3)

VENUE TO THROW AN INTIMATE PARTY (50 AND LESS) Red Ginger Lotus Room, Traverse City A buzzing metropolitan atmosphere, sublime sushi rolls and crisp cocktails served up beside floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking downtown. »»Iron Fish Distillery, Thompsonville (2) »»Black Star Farms, Suttons Bay (T3) »»Willowbrook Mill, Northport (T3)

WEDDING VENUE Castle Farms, Charlevoix This stone French Renaissance-style castle built in 1918 is the very definition of enchanting. »»Cathedral Barn at Historic Barns Park, Traverse City (2) »»Black Star Farms, Suttons Bay (3)

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | JUN '19

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THE BEST DAM LODGE HIS HUGE CRINKLY-EYED LAUGH AND KOOKY HUMOR ARE CONTAGIOUS. SHE’S A BLUR OF CURLY GINGER HAIR AND ENERGY. TOGETHER THEY ARE COOP AND EM, THE 20-SOMETHING PHENOMS POURING ALL THEY’VE GOT INTO THE 1960S FALLING WATERS LODGE IN LELAND, PUTTING IT BACK ON THE MAP OF PLACES YOU GOTTA STAY.

TEXT BY CARLY SIMPSON PHOTOS BY JON-PAUL ALLGAIER

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Em had just returned from a quick walk on Van’s Beach, just behind the lodge.

A blast of heat and her giant fluffy black Bernedoodle, Bear, welcomed her. Hanging up her winter coat, Em pulled out her phone to post a photo of the lake on Instagram.

The first day of spring had come and gone weeks ago, but it was snowing, heavily. Her photo caption: “Someone send coffee or wine, we’re cold and sad.”

Meanwhile, from her home in Grosse Ile, Michigan, a longtime guest at Falling Waters Lodge, Tracey Tear Gaudette, saw the post and made a quick phone call.

Conspiring with Tiffany Burda, general manager of the neighboring grocery store, Leland Mercantile Co., Tracey arranged for an employee to walk next door with two bottles of wine. A few minutes later, the lodge’s office door opened. Em was greeted with a grin, Chateau Fontaine’s dry rosé and Boathouse Vineyards’ pinot grigio.

Tracey’s act of kindness was rooted in a passion for this special place on Lake Michigan’s coast. “My parents took my sisters and me there when it first opened, and the tradition lives on with our families.

At one time, we had four generations vacationing together at Falling Waters Lodge.

“The smell of water, fish and wood smoke drifting over from Carlson’s Fishery —magic,” Tracey says.

Tracey knows even booking a room at this riverside retreat comes down to a perfect magic moment. Reservations can be made up to one year in advance, and when you’re checking out, you have first dibs on that room—if you book that day.

People who visit annually for Memorial Weekend or the Fourth of July and haven’t booked at checkout have lost their favorite rooms. And never gotten them back.

“After we have weddings and family reunions, we have guests who tell us, ‘That’s my room forever,’ ” Coop says. “And they literally mean forever.”

The lodge’s spell is in the sandy path out back that leads to the beach, sprinkled with Petoskey stones and the local rock known as Leland Blue. It’s in the fishermen who line up along the lodge’s deck reeling in steelhead, walleye, chinook, Coho and other big-lake beauties from the Leland River.

And it spills over from the nearby boutiques

and eateries housed in Fishtown’s shanties and in the 19th-century buildings that line Main Street.

How could you not fall in love with this place?

Coop was a high schooler just finishing a medaling track season when he first came to Falling Waters Lodge. It was the summer of 2010, and his grandmother had passed away, leaving his grandfather to run two lodges. Cooper’s grandparents, Riley and Johanna Newby, had moved to Leland in 1999 to retire. Instead of slowing down, they bought Falling Waters, and a few years later, Leland Lodge (which they later sold).

“That summer I had been turned down for a job as a camp counselor—because I made a terrible camp counselor,” Cooper laughs. “When I talked to my grandfather about how my plans fell through, he offered to contribute to a car purchase if I came up to live and work with him.”

Coop wore a suit to work every day and grew a beard—though it admittedly was very patchy—in hopes of looking more mature. He even wore a tie, only forgoing it if the temperature was above 80. “I’d be cleaning bathrooms in a suit because in my mind, you’d only wear a suit to work if you cared,” he says.

By the end of the summer, Coop was a manager. He also worked the front desk at both lodges and in the bar, restaurant and kitchen at Leland Lodge.

“That was the summer my grandfather and I became close. I still have the car he helped me buy—my red Honda Fit nicknamed Elmo,” Cooper says. “It was never assumed that I would go to Leland and help run the lodge each summer after, but I found myself anchored to it. I wanted and needed to be there. Falling Waters was the place I felt I could make the most positive difference—more than any other place in the world.”

Coop’s then-girlfriend Emily started coming to Leland with him in the summer to work at the lodge—cleaning rooms and doing laundry. The duo met during their freshman year at Principia College in Elsah, Illinois. She was majoring in creative writing with an emphasis on poetry. He was studying education and sociology.

CLOCKWISE: FRONT DESK MANAGER JACLYN EIKEY’S OFFICIAL JOB TITLE IS ACTUALLY “BACKBONE OF THE LODGE.” CHECK HER BUSINESS CARD THE NEXT TIME YOU VISIT. BRITTA HANSON, EM’S COUSIN, HELPS IN THE SUMMER. LODGE EMPLOYEES DON’T HAVE A DRESS CODE—COOP AND EM WANT TO BE COMFORTABLE WHEN THEY WORK AND BELIEVE THEIR EMPLOYEES SHOULD BE, TOO. (NO MORE SUITS!) ALL OF THE ART HANGING ON THE WALLS (SHOWN LEFT) IS FOR SALE. SOME OF THE MICHIGAN ARTWORK YOU’LL SEE: PAINTINGS BY M22 ARTISTS PETER HYATT MIDDLETON AND CASSIDY STOCK, WOOD ART BY AMY LINCK OF EVERYTHING FLIPPED, PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE COMPASS POINTS HERE, THE HUSBAND-AND-WIFE DUO OF COURTNEY MICHALIK KENT AND MICHAEL KENT.

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When Coop’s grandfather passed away in September 2016, the future of the lodge was uncertain. Cooper’s mom and uncle considered selling it to a third party. Meanwhile, the young couple started making a to-do list. They’d been talking for years about buying the lodge. And while they respected their grandfather’s tenure with the old building, they couldn’t help planning the changes they’d make. “Truthfully, there was never a chance Coop was going to end up anywhere else,” Emily says.

Many people told them not to buy it— the lodge was too expensive, too rundown; they were too young (at the time, Cooper was 24 and Emily was 25). It was too much of a risk.

But instead of listening to all the reasons they couldn’t do it, they followed their hearts and plunged in to figure out how they could. After months of working with an accountant, an attorney and a banker, they forged a deal to take over Coop’s grandfather’s mortgage and make monthly payments to Coop’s mother and uncle who’d inherited the Lodge. On March 30, 2017, the young couple signed the purchase agreement for Falling Waters Lodge.

Risk, dreams and all, they held the title.

The next day, they ripped out all the old carpet (a few friends were paid in pizza to help). In came COREtec floors that look like hardwood but are waterproof and can hold up to the the Heston’s first policy change: all 21 rooms are now pet-friendly.

“The first weekend we opened, someone brought a cockatoo,” Emily says. “They took pet-friendly quite literally. We’ve had kittens, an iguana and a lot of dogs.”

They painted interior walls and, working with as many local artisans as possible, replaced dressers, bedside tables and every single lamp. That spring, they toiled until the last possible minute. “One of the rooms wasn’t ready and guests were going to check in,” Cooper says. “Luckily they didn’t come until 5 p.m. We had just put furniture back on top of the newly-installed floor, there wasn’t any trim, we were still sweeping up construction dust...”

“And they were so happy,” Emily interjects. “They visit every summer and were absolutely thrilled to see the lodge being revived. The fact that it’s still family owned and that we’ve kept the feel of Fishtown means it’s still the same nostalgic place for these people who have been coming here for so long.”

Case in point: When one guest who had been staying at Falling Waters Lodge for more than 50 years first saw the renovations he broke down in tears. “He was so happy to see this place he loves so much have life again,” Coop says.

The upgrades are ongoing. There’s a brand new deck over the river. Coop’s sister and brother-in-law, both talented artists, are creating original paintings for the rooms. And last summer the ‘70s-era kitchenettes were all replaced with new appliances, granite countertops and subway-tile backsplashes. “We’re proud of where we’ve come, but we do still look around and see things we want to change,” Coop says.

Their passion and work haven’t gone unnoticed. Folks who not long ago wrote them off as too young or not serious have become believers. The couple has become their own two-person Leland institution.

Heck, they can even go for a sandwich at the famous Village Cheese Shanty in Fishtown and simply say, “A Coop special,” or “An Em special,” and everyone knows what they are talking about.

Through it all, they haven’t lost an ounce of spunk or zest for life. They balance bookkeeping and 60-hour workweeks with ultimate frisbee on Tuesday nights (they’re both on the Traverse City Ultimate board and team captains) and they recently purchased a fixer-upper in nearby Cedar that is usually brimming with friends, Bear and his new brother, a Bernedoodle named Charlie.

Coop and Em are crossing things off their to-do list and giving new life to the old lodge. But even on the busiest days, they take a minute to breathe that Great Lakes air mingled with a hint of smoked fish.

TAKE A WALK AROUND TOWN ...

COOP AND EM START THEIR DAY AT BLUE BOAT COFFEE, TUCKED OFF MAIN STREET, WITH A STEAMING CUP OF MADCAP COFFEE. DON’T EVEN TRY TO RESIST THE SWEET TREATS AND LOCAL PASTRIES FROM JOHN AND LINDA SISSON, 9 BEAN ROWS AND THIRD COAST BAKERY. ACROSS THE STREET, LEELANAU BOOKS HAS ENDLESS BEACH-READ RECOMMENDATIONS AND FUN SUMMER YOUTH PROGRAMS—KIDS MAKE FAIRY HOUSES, MEET MERMAIDS AND CREATE THEIR OWN PAINTINGS. STAY AWHILE. IN FISHTOWN, WEATHERED FISHING SHANTIES HOUSE LOCAL SHOPS, ART GALLERIES, CARLSON’S FISHERY, THE CUTEST CANDY STORE YOU CAN IMAGINE AND, OF COURSE, THE VILLAGE CHEESE SHANTY. (TIP: THE SANDWICH SHACK ACCEPTS ONLY CASH. STOP BY THE HUNTINGTON ATM ON MAIN STREET BEFORE YOU GET IN LINE.) MORE MUST-VISIT SPOTS IN LELAND: THE VILLAGE GREEN ON THE CORNER OF PEARL AND MAIN STREETS, THE OLD ART BUILDING AND WHALEBACK NATURAL AREA, JUST SOUTH OF TOWN OFF M22.

EXPLORE HISTORIC FISHTOWN. Wander the 19th-century shanties with us. MyNorth.com/visitfishtown

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BEAR LOVES MEETING NEW FRIENDS ON VAN’S BEACH.

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WOLVES WERE NEARLY WIPED OUT IN MICHIGAN. Read this Traverse classic, featured back in 2001.

MyNorth.com/ReturnoftheWolves

I snugged the straps on my 40-pound pack and followed our team leader already plunging down the steep, rocky ridge. To be safe, I kept my bum in contact with the rock face on the way down. I hoped the seat of my hiking pants was up for the challenge since I had only just met the team I was hiking with.

When we first reached the top of the ridge, I was surprised at how much snow persisted between the huge lichen-spotted rocks. In the ravines between the ridges, there were dense, cedar swamps to cross.

This was an exercise in balance and grace, two qualities difficult to maintain with a full pack. I hopped from tree to tree, swinging out across deep, murky holes filled with icy water, slipping on mossy logs, stepping into deep mud.

Most of our hiking was off-trail since moose rarely die on-trail. Normally, visitors to this wild island national park will stay on the trails and have an easier time of it.

All over the island, we passed evidence of moose: large piles of pelleted scat. And we saw an occasional wolf track in the mud, doglike, but enormous.

By the end of my first day, my legs were rubbery from exertion after only a ninemile hike. After dinner, we dispersed to our tents. I writhed my sore body into my sleeping bag and fell into an exhausted sleep. In the middle of the night, I woke to a strange sound. It was rising and falling, a primal howl: wolves calling to each other in the depths of the night. It chilled and exhilarated me, forever defining the sound of wilderness.

This was my first trip to Isle Royale, early in May, six years ago.

Volunteer hikers have traveled to Isle Royale since 1988 to contribute to the wildlife study based there since the 1950s.

There, under the guidance of scientists

from Michigan Technological University under the leadership of Dr. Rolf Peterson, teams of hikers embark on a macabre, wilderness scavenger hunt. They search all over this rugged island isolated by the waters of Lake Superior … for moose bones.

It’s difficult to convey the joy of finding a moose bone. While hiking the rugged terrain you must scan the area for a glimpse of white. You resent birch bark resembling bone and patches of snow resembling bone.

Nothing satisfies except real bone, and when you see it, you yell, “Moose bone!”

Your team gathers, grinning at the find.

There is also an element of friendly competition between volunteers: which team will bring back the most skulls? Or have the best story? Or meet the most live moose?

When a team finds a bone, they search the area for the rest of the bones belonging to that moose. Then, they assess which bones they’ve found out of the nearly 100 bones each moose has puzzling out the puzzle that is always missing pieces dragged off by wolves or foxes or lost in the depths of an icy swamp. Teams carefully search to retrieve the incisor teeth, which usually fall out of the jawbone. Scientists can slice the incisors to reveal growth rings (much like the ones trees have). This is the most accurate way to assess the age of a dead moose.

For live moose, you have to ask them directly.

The skull, jawbone, all recovered teeth and the metatarsal bone from the back leg are nestled into already heavy backpacks for delivery to the scientists. The metatarsal bone is distinctive. One end of it looks machined, perfectly grooved and ridged to fit the bones just above the hoof. The metatarsal grows to its full length in the moose’s first year of life, so it is the best

way to gauge the overall health and size of the moose.

In the 61 years of this study, over 5,000 moose skulls have been recovered on Isle Royale. Sometimes, bull moose die with their antlers still on their heads. Finding an antlered skull is a special prize for hikers, and transporting it back is an extra-heavy challenge. Even more prized (and equally dreaded) is finding the skulls of two bull moose who died trying to prove which of them would win the right to mate that fall.

On rare occasions, the antlers of the bulls can become locked and neither one of them gets to breed that year. This “prize” of two skulls with locked antlers can easily weigh over 100 pounds.

Today, the largest collection of antlered moose skulls in the world is on Isle Royale.

It is kept at Bangsund Cabin, which serves as a base for scientists. Visitors are welcome.

Island ecosystems are unique because of their isolation. Every creature and plant had to initially arrive there on the wind or waves or over the ice. Once there, they evolve in isolation. On Isle Royale, there are hundreds of types of lichen in colors from vibrant lavender to orange to greens and yellows. The plant species number over 700 and include 28 ferns and 32 orchids. At least one flower is found nowhere else on the planet. Packera insulae-regalis is a bright yellow daisy found only in the wetlands around Mt. Franklin near Isle Royale’s eastern tip.

There are a limited number of creatures on the island, including a mere 15 mammals and only three types of snakes (garter, redbellied, and gray ratsnake). These species often take on characteristics unique to the island. Garter snakes, for instance, tend to display brighter colors than those on the mainland.

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JASON DUETCH

Moose first arrived on the island over a century ago after swimming from the mainland. Moose are able to swim over 5 mph, and the 15-mile swim to Isle Royale is well within their range. After enjoying decades without any predators, wolves eventually trotted over a winter ice bridge to join them.

The lives and deaths of these two species are isolated and intertwined on the island. This is a bonus for scientists trying to unravel the complexities of interaction between predator and prey.

A few years ago, the population of Isle Royale wolves bottomed out at a single pair, male and female. These two remnants of a once healthy population (there were over 50 wolves on the island in 1980) are in no shape to take down moose. Even a full pack of wolves won’t go after a healthy moose, but only the weak, the sick and the very young. Examination of wolf skeletons recovered on the island provides evidence of how dangerous it is to try to take down the big herbivore. Most wolves had fractures long healed, jaws and ribs cracked by a well-placed kick from a cornered moose, or teeth broken in the struggle to take them down.

The demise of wolves on Isle Royale was precipitated not by nature, but by man. In the early 1980s, someone came to the island on their boat, and they brought their dog. This dog was infected with parvovirus when the virus had mutated to a strain highly lethal to canines. Two years after parvovirus was introduced on the island, only 14 wolves remained. Since then, inbred and isolated, the wolves have struggled to survive.

Recent estimates of Isle Royale moose put their numbers at 1,600. Without predation by wolves, the population could double in the next few years. This remote island would be overrun. A severe winter would see moose starve in mass numbers since the island is unable to provide enough winter forage to sustain that many moose.

The National Park Service (NPS) finally made the decision to bring more wolves to the island after a long period of study and public input. Last fall, four wolves were gathered from Ontario and released on Isle Royale. Over the winter, two more were transported.

And in March, a U.S.¬Canadian team successfully relocated seven gray wolves to the island—six wolves from an island in Canadian territory and one from the Ontario mainland. The half-dozen from Michipicoten Island in Lake Superior were in danger of starvation.

At 70 years old, Dr. Rolf Peterson is considered a world authority on wolves and moose. He is of less than average height, lithe and lean. He hasn’t yet gone completely gray, even in his full beard.

His smile is easy as he locks his blue eyes on each volunteer.

I was thrilled the first time I met him. He extended his hand.

I took it and said, “So nice to meet you, Dr. Peterson.”

He shook his head. “Rolf. Just call me Rolf.”

His wife, Candy, has been deeply involved with the study alongside Rolf. She has been a field assistant, a coordinator for volunteer teams and a writer. She interacts with park visitors, telling them about this unique wildlife study. She’s an eternal optimist. Her blue eyes shine as she talks about how the good in the world will always outpace the bad. She’s about Rolf’s height, lean and also not-yet completely gray.

Together, they raised their two sons mostly on this island. They have a home in Houghton for the winter, but once Isle Royale is

MOOSEWATCH TEAM PLUS DR. ROLF AND WIFE CANDY

LOWER JAW OF MOOSE

MOOSE SKULL COLLECTION

LOREEN WITH MOOSE ANTLERS

accessible in the spring they pack up and move there. The Bangsund Cabin is a short walk from the Rock Harbor Lighthouse. The cabin was built in 1926 by island fishermen and is the Peterson’s home for the mild months when teams of volunteers hike the island under their direction.

Rolf had been encouraging the NPS to bring more wolves to the island for over a decade. The transport of four to the island last fall was the first installment to replenish the wolf population. Additional wolves will be added this fall, too. What a wonderful time to be a field scientist, at the moment when new wolves arrive on this remote island overburdened with moose.

They watched as the wolves explored, formed packs, established territories and chose their winter dens.

I chatted with Rolf about what they’ve learned from over 60 years observing moose and wolves here. He pointed out that only by studying this system for many decades have they been able to see how dynamic the system truly is. If they had studied it for a shorter period, their conclusions would have been wrong.

“The most important lesson is that it is very dynamic, changing all the time,” he said. “So the notion of ‘balance’ is really a bit of fiction. And it’s complicated. Even a single predator/single prey system is complicated.”

He also pointed out how unexpected, chance events like the mutant parvovirus have disrupted the dynamics of the system.

“Maybe more than anything else. And it’s unpredictable events that are in some cases unimaginable.” He continued, “So, ecology, instead of describing some kind of dynamic equilibrium that we can eventually seek to understand, it’s more of a narrative. The most powerful presentation of this story is when you just walk through the whole thing and pick out the big events and explain what happened because of parvovirus.

That’s very powerful and compelling and it’s not what anybody thought we’d end up with 50 years ago. It was anticipated there’d be some nice package of moose/ wolf dynamics. And once we understand it here we could take that package and go anywhere else in the world and see the same thing. No.”

Last year I hiked my fourth Moosewatch Expedition. Each time I’ve returned to the island, I’ve seen more and more live moose.

Teams of hikers have also assessed the health of the balsam fir trees growing on the island. This is the primary source of winter forage for moose. These trees look the worse for it, stubby and munched, often no taller than a foot or two. Many of these abused trees are decades old, stunted by having their tops chomped off every winter.

After seeing these stunted trees all over the island, it’s difficult to remember what grand specimens balsam fir can become.

Last year, my team was hunting for bones in a ravine near Feldtmann Lake on the island’s southwest corner. The area was strewn with slabs of rocks fractured off the steep rock walls. One giant rock was covered with yews, a low-growing evergreen. It was an island of lush green in the otherwise drab, early spring landscape.

This was curious. The rock slab was almost five feet tall with sheered sides, though, preventing moose from eating the sprouting yews. We noticed a tree growing on the slab, a specimen around 40 feet tall.

One hiker on our team scrambled up onto the rock and examined it. “It’s a balsam fir!” she said.

It was stunning. I had never seen one anywhere close to this size on the island except in a fenced area used to demonstrate what the island forest might look like if the moose weren’t around. Balsams in the enclosure grew tall, but not as big as this specimen perched on the protective rock.

It was mature enough to produce cones and seed, scattering them onto the forest floor where its progeny were consumed by moose.

Moosewatch teams also gather data from shed moose antlers. Do the math: 1,500 moose currently on the island, about half are males, those mature enough will grow a set of antlers annually. That’s over 1,000 antlers shed each year. They are all over the island, knocked off by moose thrashing against trees, finally dropping the heavy load. It must be such a

relief. Sure, antlers are necessary for the bulls to show off, to prove they are worthy of passing on their genes, but a set of antlers can weigh up to 40 pounds. That’s the equivalent of a 200-pound person carrying 7 pounds around on their head.

Hikers measure the diameter of the antler’s pedicle (the part that attaches to the skull), and record this along with the GPS location of each shed antler. Teams easily find two dozen sheds during a week, often twice that.

Mammals tend to get smaller over time when isolated on islands, and the moose of Isle Royale follow this trend. Moose here have skulls that are 16 percent smaller than those roaming the island at the beginning of the study. As density of moose increases, food sources become overtaxed. A harsh winter can mean starvation. Downsized individuals need less food to make it to spring. It is a good survival strategy.

Just this spring—right now—the Moosewatch Expedition volunteers are again returning to Isle Royale. Will we find it much changed by the young wolves now roaming the island, hunting the weaker moose? Will there be more bones to find from their many kills?

There is one surety: once again the night will be pierced by the howling of wolves on this wilderness island.

I, for one, will be happy to hear it again.

Loreen Niewenhuis is a scientist, adventurer, and author. She has written a trilogy of books about our Great Lakes. Loreen travels widely giving dynamic presentations about her adventures.

This year she is leading a group of all-women hikers on a Moosewatch Expedition. Learn more about her atLakeTrek.com. Learn more about the wolves and moose of Isle Royale— including access to annual reports from the study —at IsleRoyaleWolf.org Writer’s Note: Out of the four wolves transported to the island last fall, a female died in transit; the lone male died of pneumonia on the island and one of the two surviving females trekked over the winter ice bridge to the mainland. Despite the setbacks, wolf relocation efforts on Isle Royale continue.

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TEXT BY TIM TEBEAU // PHOTOS BY DAVE KARCZYNSKI

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ith a counterclockwise swirl, an inviting waft of strawberries and a sip of the mouthwatering acid verve that defines the wines of Northwest Michigan, we’re off, drinking pinot noir rosé and marching down a row of vines behind Shady Lane Cellars’ Head Winemaker, Kasey Wierzba. Dressed in jeans and boots dusted with vineyard dirt, Wierzba stops every few paces to inspect the newly emerged shoots eagerly snaking their way east and west along taut trellis wires. “Good wine has to start with good fruit,” Kasey explains as light ricochets through the salmon pink wine sloshing in her glass, “and good fruit comes from a healthy vineyard.”

Wierzba’s approach to winemaking relies on a holistic intimacy with her vines from the moment they emerge from dormancy, through summer’s photosynthetic fury and into the autumn harvest. “Surrounded by all this agriculture and cherry farming, my love for growing things started here,” the Traverse City native recounts, tracing the electric green sawtooth edge of a pinot noir leaf drenched in early-summer sun. Wierzba, a self-described science kid, started out studying plant sciences at MSU and quickly pivoted to horticulture where she discovered a passion for viticulture and enology, doing research in the university’s grape lab and working summer internships at Black Star Farms and Craig Cunningham’s vineyard management company.

Emerging from the ivory tower chrysalis with a master’s degree in viticulture focused on sustainable grape vine management, Wierzba struck out for Napa Valley where she landed as vineyard manager at Frog’s Leap, a certified organic winery in Rutherford, and worked as a viticulturist at prestigious blue-chip institutions Rudd and Far Niente/Nickel & Nickel.

Two young sons, the magnetism of home and Northern Michigan’s rapidly growing wine industry drew Wierzba back to the thrill of cool climate viticulture when she signed on as Shady Lane’s assistant winemaker in 2013. Faced with a truncated growing season and a radically different climate, Wierzba embraces the challenge. “The soil, the weather and the expression of the grapes are completely different in Napa,” Kasey relates, “but my biggest takeaway was in familiarizing myself with the land: knowing the identity of its soil, plants, weather patterns, the cycles of moisture and the stages of vine development. Even though conditions are not the same, the awareness that comes from understanding connections between the land and the crop translates 100 percent.”

Armed with an organic awareness and a heap of raw winemaking talent, Kasey finds her biggest challenge in the art of translating nature’s cues at the 45th parallel. “This was a hard reset to what I had studied at MSU. Our whirlwind growing season is only four months long but a lot happens in that amount of time, and even when our fruit is fully ripe, it has more of an acid backbone than anything that grows in California. I had to retrain my palette to be okay with that.”

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Finding the virtues in this region’s bright, lifted expressions of cool climate grape varietals was not hard for Wierzba, however, as she believes these characteristics foster a development in the glass that’s hard to match in warmer climes. “The wines being made here are perfect food wines. They continue to unfold from the first sniff and sip to the last, and reveal new layers of aroma and texture to discover as the wines get oxygen and warm up a bit.”

This intrinsic vibrancy, Wierzba maintains, keeps the wines from feeling heavy or laborious and makes them deliciously compatible with fresh preparations using seasonal produce and Great Lakes fish. “There’s always room to enjoy a second glass,” she says as we bid adieu to the afternoon’s first bottle of rosé.

A few glasses deep and reveling in that heady surge of vitamin D all northerners feel as summer officially settles in, we turn our attention to the pink wine at hand and its parent grape, pinot noir.

“I call pinot noir ‘the diva grape,’ ” Kasey explains with a sly smile.

“It’s really finicky in the vineyard and maintains that attitude throughout the cellar. The thinner skin also means that all of mother nature’s critters are drawn to the clusters as they ripen, so we have to be very selective with clusters and treat them with the utmost care.”

At Shady Lane, the utmost care is a meticulous regiment of small batch, open top one-ton fermentations, each with a unique yeast strain. Red varietals, pinot noir in particular, are highly sensitive to late-season weather fluctuations, but Kasey’ flags 2017’s warm dry fall as one of the best she’s worked with. “As they unfold, well-made wines from vintages like this keep telling a story in your glass.”

2017’s manifold layers of black cherry and barrel spice will have to wait for a cooler day though, as the grape is telling its story in rosé form on this sun-soaked June afternoon. Rosé mania has swept through popular culture in the last few years, posting exponential growth as a beverage category and popping up in Instagram posts from yacht decks in the Maldives to beach chairs on Platte Bay. The wines are almost universally fresh, bright and affordable, and Kasey rightly acknowledges the category as having “a huge breadth of styles from fresh, fruity and off-dry to serious wines aged on their lees in barrels.”

Shady Lane’s Pinot Noir Rosé definitely splashes down in the serious end of the pink wine pool. Aged in used barrels on its lees (the inactive yeast solids that remain after fermentation), the wine, as it matures in the bottle, develops what Wierzba describes as a “strawberries and cream” effect with soft red fruits and white pepper on the nose, silky mid-palate texture and a pop of bright acid that enlivens the finish. And while this wine has the cerebral trappings to satisfy geek and enthusiast alike, Kasey is quick to emphasize we should also seek the basic pleasure in a good glass.

“Not everything needs to be raked over,” she says, admiring how light plays at the edge of the crystal. “Sometimes you need to just enjoy a simple moment of sand blowing around on the beach and shooing seagulls away from the picnic.” The beach, and another bottle, are calling.

SHADY LANE CELLARS PINOT NOIR ROSÉ How it smells: Ripe strawberry, fresh orange peel, vanilla and a hint of sweet smoke.

How it tastes: Round and supple with soft red fruits.

Dry, persistent finish.

How it’s made: Cold soaked in the press for 12 hours, lightly pressed and fermented in 80 percent stainless steel tanks and 20 percent neutral oak barrels. Stirred on its lees to add texture and soften the acidity.

How to drink it: Pull the bottle out of the refrigerator 15 minutes before serving and pour a taste while the wine warms up a few degrees and releases its aromas. Pair with a dock, a beach, soft-ripened cheeses or grilled lake.

STOP AND SIP THE ROSÉ. Take a dewy glass of rosés out on the patio.

MyNorth.com/winerypatios

Traverse food and drinks editor Tim Tebeau writes from Petoskey // Dave Karczynski teaches writing and photography at the University of Michigan, Ann Arbor.

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LIFE . ON . A . FREIG HTE R .

FOURTEEN KNOTS AND A FEW HUNDRED MILES OF LAKE MICHIGAN REMAIN BEFORE THE NEXT STOP. COME ABOARD WITH CADET-IN-TRAINING TAYLOR BROWN FOR A LOOK AT LIFE ON THE FRESH SEAS. TEXT AND PHOTOS BY TAYLOR BROWN

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Cadets get assigned to two commercial sea projects during their time at the Great Lakes Maritime Academy. The summer of 2018, I was assigned the Great Lakes.

Once the ice melts, the 1,004-foot Edwin H. Gott never sleeps in her pursuit to carry the most cargo on the lakes. I joined her downbound at the locks in Sault Ste. Marie.

After climbing a seemingly endless ladder, I met the crew out on deck. For the next month, I shadowed the Third Mate, learning everything about his job I could. For two shifts a day we would stand a navigational watch on the bridge or be out on deck as we pulled into or departed a dock.

AT LEFT CLOCKWISE: THE BRIDGE HOUSES THE HELM, STEERING STAND AND OTHER CONTROLS / “THE TUNNEL” / PASSING BY MACKINAC ISLAND / THE ENGINE ORDER TELEGRAPH — A BACKUP JUST IN CASE THE ELECTRIC ONE EVER FAILS / THAT’S ME. WE’RE USUALLY ALLOWED TO WEAR WHATEVER WE WANT WHEN WORKING, BUT WE WEAR OUR CLASS UNIFORM AT THE ACADEMY.

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SAIL THE STRAITS. Take in gorgeous views like this one.

MyNorth.com/summercruises

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The company routinely sends the ship between Two Harbors, Minnesota, and Gary, Indiana. Two Harbors is a sleepy town just north of Duluth. Oddly enough, it’s where Sticky Notes were first invented. And it’s where iron ore pellets make their way from the surrounding rocky hills into the bellies of giant ships whose boxy steel bodies outlast any saltwater ship.

Even as the hull was pelted by waves as we left port, the twin 10,000 horsepower engines never seemed to mind. Get into big enough seas and look down the tunnel (previous page), and you’ll see the steel twisting and moving the tunnel up, down, left and right. “That’s normal,” I’m told, as I remember I’ll be sleeping on this flexible monster.

Being a cadet is a funny part of any mariner’s career. You’re eager to prove yourself as competent, yet lacking the experience needed to provide any real operational value to the ship—this isn’t to say

I’m completely useless; I’ll drop anything to make a mean cup of coffee for the Captain.

Cadets need to get trips in on all five Great Lakes, as well as the Detroit, St. Clair and St. Marys rivers. I was lacking in my Detroit and St. Clair trips and spent June 2018 completing them on the State of Michigan, the Academy’s training ship. Soon it was the 4th of July, and to celebrate, the ship placed itself in Buffalo, New York. The harbor was packed with boats awaiting the fireworks. I’m usually at West End Beach in Traverse City taking photos, but this night I was tasked with gangway watch. Confident the ship wasn’t going to be invaded by Buffalonians, I snuck away to take the shot above.

Taylor Brown graduated in May from the Great Lakes Maritime Academy in Traverse City. He’s now a civilian merchant marine officer licensed to work aboard commercial ships on the Great Lakes and oceans. Follow his adventures on Instagram at @tayderbrown.

AT LEFT, CLOCKWISE: THE PAUL R. TREGURTHA STOCKS UP ON NECESSITIES FROM THE SUPPLY VESSEL BELOW. SUPPLIES COULD BE FOOD, TOOLS—WHATEVER THEY’VE RUN OUT OF / COLTON, A MARITIME CADET FROM TEXAS, ON THE ACADEMY’S TRAINING SHIP / HAPPY 4TH! / SUNSETS ON THE OPEN WATERS OF ERIE AND HURON / EARLY-MORNING VIEWS OF MACKINAC ISLAND.

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JUNE/JULY 2019

For the Way You Live Up North

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Volume 23

For the way you live Up North

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Number 9

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14 Great American Classic

A first-class renovation for a Charlevoix Craftsman.

7 Editor’s Note What I Told The Detroit News.

8 Northern Style All Americana

28 Legacy Home

An architect with a long and successful career turns his talents to designing a stunning family cottage on Elk Lake.

38 Home Sweet Crystal Lake

A thoughtful Shingle-style home for a family devoted to Crystal Lake.

48 Barn Elevated

A modern take on a classic structure results in an immensely livable home that fits graciously into its setting.

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JUNE/JULY 2019

contents

Building homes is a craft. Building relationships is an art.

Building homes is a craft. Building relationships is an art.

Building Building both both is is Birchwood.

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Our family is here to serve yours. Visit us at bccfamily.com.

Our family is here to serve yours. Visit us at bccfamily.com.

W WO TI TIM

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“Andersen” and all other marks where denoted are trademarks of Andersen Corporation. ©2019 *Visit Andersen Corporation. All rights reserved. andersenwindows.com/warranty for details. *Visit andersenwindows.com/warranty for details. **Hanley Wood Builder Brand Use Study 1998-2018, Windows – Wood & Clad-Wood Category. **Hanley Wood Builder Brand Use Study 1998-2018, Windows – Wood & Clad-Wood Category.

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“Andersen” and all other marks where denoted are**Hanley trademarks of Andersen Corporation. ©2019 Andersen All & rights reserved. **Hanley Wood Builder Brand Use Study 1998-2018, Windows Corporation.

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“ENERGY STAR” is a registered trademark of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.

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“Andersen” and all other marks where denoted are trademarks of Andersen Corporation. ©2019 Andersen Corporation. All rights reserved.

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Street Address, Street Address, City,City, ST ST ZipZip

000.000.0000 LOGO 000.000.0000 LOGO Street Address, Street Address, City,City, ST ST ZipZip NorthernBuildingSupply.com address webweb address Street Address, City, ST 000.000.0000 LOGO Street Address, City, ST ZipZip 000.000.0000 LOGO 1480 S. West Bay Shore Dr. | Suttons Bay, MI 49682 | 231-271-0010 NorthernBuildingSupply.com web address LOGO web LOGO 1701 South Airportnorthernbuildingsupply.com Rd. West | Traverse000.000.0000 City, 000.000.0000 MI 49686address | 231-947-1400 1480 S. West Bay Shore Dr.,Suttons Bay, MI 49682 231-271-0010

1701 South Airport Rd. West Traverse City, MI 49686 231-947-1400

1480 S. West Bay Shore Dr.,Suttons Bay, MI 49682

1701 South Airport Rd. West Traverse City, MI 49686

NorthernBuildingSupply.com web address 1480 S. West Bay Shore | Suttons Bay,South MIweb 49682 | 231-271-0010 231-271-0010 231-947-1400 1480 S. West BayDr. Shore 1701 Airport address Rd. West Dr.,Suttons Bay, MI 49682 Traverse City, MI 49686 1701 Airport Rd. West TraverseBay, City, 49686| |231-271-0010 231-947-1400 northernbuildingsupply.com 1480South S. West Bay Shore Dr. ||Suttons MIMI49682 231-271-0010 231-947-1400

1701 South Airportnorthernbuildingsupply.com Rd. West | Traverse City, MIHome 49686& | 231-947-1400 Northern Cottage JUN | JUL ‘19

NHC5

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Old Old Mission Mission Peninsula Peninsula tt hh ee wa wa ii tt ii ss ff ii nn aa ll ly ly ov ov ee rr lots Starting at $495K lots Starting at $495K

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w w w . 8 1 T r av e r s e C i t y . c o m

f o r a p r i vat e to u r c a l l 2 3 1 - 4 2 1 - 5 1 6 1

B l u f f R oa d B l u f f R oa d

editor’s note ELIZABETH EDWARDS

Serving Northern Michigan for over 30 Years

In the News A couple months back my friend and sometimes Northern Home & Cottage contributor, Khristi Zimmeth, asked if she could interview me for a story she was writing for The Detroit News on cottage style.

For 30 years with Traverse Magazine and Northern Home & Cottage, I have lived, moved and breathed this subject—touring hundreds and hundreds of Northern Michigan cottages along the way. I had so much fun responding I thought I’d share my answers to Khristi’s questions.

How would you describe the cottage look/vernacular?

Northern Michigan cottages come in all shapes, forms and styles. But there are characteristics that all the truly great quintessential cottages share. The cottage blends into the site rather than intruding on it. This is especially important given our world-class Up North landscape. There is an immediate connection between the structure and the landscape through windows, glass doors, terraces and outdoor rooms. Natural materials such as wood and stone are used (at least) on the exterior.

The scale is human—meaning the grandkids won’t get lost in the house!

The Shade is Cool,

the Look is Hot!

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Have you noticed any trends and/or interesting new products in the cottages you tour?

Folding glass doors that open up an entire room to the outdoors are absolutely magic. I’d also add high-end vinyl floors that look exactly like wood (Up North cottage owners tend to have children with sandy feet and dogs around a lot!), Cambria countertops that look like marble but hold up better and upholstery fabric that looks and feels like linen but can take a beating! And I can’t leave this subject without mentioning built-in bunk/loft beds for the kids and grandkids. Our Northern Michigan contractors have become pros at building them.

PHOTO BY DAVE SPECKMAN

What has changed about decorating cottages?

I think the biggest change I’ve seen over 30 years is the move away from fussy interiors. Families are so busy now and an Up North cottage is their chance to reconnect and relax. Throwing open the doors and windows, turning up the sound system and having a family dance party in the kitchen is something I’ve heard a number of times!

Tell us about some of your all-time favorite cottages?

I have dozens of all-time loves. But I always say my most favorite are the ones I am doing stories on at the moment. Currently, I’m working on the June issue of Traverse Magazine/Northern Home & Cottage. I’m blown away by the lineup of stories—a spectacular 1880s Craftsmen redo on Lake Michigan near Charlevoix, a stunning modern-rustic home on Old Mission Peninsula, a beachy Shingle style on Crystal Lake and a contemporary lodge on Elk Lake. You gotta see this issue!

Elizabeth Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home & Cottage. lissa@traversemagazine.com.

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www.advancedawnings.net 231-938-2233 or 800-953-2288 Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL ‘19

NHC7

1

3

2

5

4

ALL AMERICANA RED, WHITE & TRUE VIBES FOR SUMMER CURATED BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS PHOTOS DAVID WEIDNER

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MyNorth.com

6 1. Vintage Bike (garden art): Reid Furniture, Petoskey, 231.347.2942, reidfurniturecompany.com, $379 2. Michigan chip ’n’ dip bowl: My Secret Stash, Traverse City, 231.929.0340, mysecretstash.com, $60 3. V intage American Flag Banner: The Lake House, Charlevoix, 231.437.3425, thelakehousecharlevoix.com, $23 4. C harlevoix Nautical Sign: The Lake House, Charlevoix, 231.437.3425, thelakehousecharlevoix.com, $125

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12 5. Bathing Suit Top Planter: Reid Furniture, Petoskey, 231.347.2942, reidfurniturecompany.com, $99

9. P olarized Ray Bans: Sunglass Shoppe, Traverse City, 231.946.4730, sunglass-shoppe.com, $203

6. Canoe Paddle: Lake Affect, Petoskey, 231.347.5253, lake-affect.com, $209

10. Nautical Pillow: The Lake House, Charlevoix, 231.437.3425, thelakehousecharlevoix.com, $69

7. Vintage Bathing Suit Art: Mettlers American Mercantile, Petoskey, 231.622.8935, mettlersamerica.com, $1300

11. Etch A Sketch: Grandpa Shorter’s, Petoskey, 231.347.2603, grandpashorters.com, $9.98

8. Michigan beach towel: Critters, Traverse City, 231.933.5633, $12.99

12. Anchor Beach Bag (made from recycled sails): Katydid, Petoskey, 231.758.1030, grandpashorters.com/the-katydid, $155 Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL ‘19

NHC 9

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VISIT US

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trends!

SUMMER IS HERE! WHICH BEGS THE QUESTION …

WHERE TO PUT THE HOUSEGUESTS?

BACKROADZ TRUCK TENT

By Elizabeth Edwards

ROWE FURNITURE / CAPRI FULL SLEEPER SOFA

SOFA BEDS Who: Mike Mahn, owner of Golden-Fowler Home Furnishings and Lakeside Marketing Mike, a Traverse City native, has owned Golden-Fowler Home Furnishings since 2008 but has worked there since 1992. Prior to that, he spent 10 years in the contemporary furniture business in Ann Arbor. With so much experience, we thought he’d be just the one to ask about what’s new with the age-old place to put guests: the pullout sofa.

Sofa bed, pullout bed, sleep sofa.

What’s the right term for these?

All of those plus hide-a-bed—that’s an old brand that’s become like Kleenex to tissue. When customers come in and ask for any of those, we go with the flow.

Seems like these beds have a bad rap.

That’s because…

Sofa beds have a notoriously bad reputation. They are heavy and hard to move and uncomfortable. There’s a bar that holds up the mattress when it is pulled out.

When they’re uncomfortable, that’s the bar you feel.

You sure aren’t selling me on them!

[Laughs] No, I guess I’m not. But the way to make them comfortable is to upgrade the mattresses. That’s why we make our own mattresses right here in Michigan under the brand name Lakeside. I specify all the materials. We have one style called the Marvelous Middle that is just thin enough to go into a pull-out frame.

So, you have the magic sofa bed cure!

Does that mean you sell a lot of them?

Oh yes. We recognize people up here need places for guests. What we call our Sleeper Season begins in March and runs through the Fourth of July. We have probably 20 different sleeper sofas in stock and provide delivery.

MURPHY BEDS Who: Jill Hutchinson, Design Consultant, Closets Plus Trained by California Closets in home-organizing solutions, Jill has worked for Closets Plus in Traverse City for six years. Murphy beds, sometimes called wall beds, are one of the many ways Jill helps her clients make efficient use of their space—including turning an office, den or even living room into a guest room.

Murphy beds, wall beds—they sound a bit complicated. How does the design-install process work?

I do an in-home visit to determine what design, what size and what orientation you need, then design it using CAD. We send the CAD specs to our factory in Holland, Michigan, and they have the bed to us in a week. We do the complete install—which can be a bit technical in terms of setting the tension of the springs according to the weight structure of the mattress. You don’t want the mattress to spring back up when you pull the bed down.

Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '19

NHC 11

Call for your FREE consultation right at home: Custom Closets

Home Office

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TailoredLiving.com/TraverseCity Closets • Garages • Garage Flooring Home Offices • Murphy Beds Pantries • Craft & Hobby Areas

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So their size can be customized.

But what do you mean by orientation?

They can pull down from the head or from the side so that you are laying perpendicular to the wall.

And you can bling them out, right?

Yes, you can pick your style cabinetry—color or stain. You can even get them outfitted with pullout desks attached or shelves on the side of the cabinet.

Let’s talk mattresses— are these beds comfortable?

Yes, they are comfortable. I have one and I actually slept on it for a couple years and it was great. We can supply the mattress or you can get your own. The only mattress that doesn’t work is a pillow top.

So, where do you store the bedding?

You can fold it right up in the bed.

I keep my bed made with sheets, quilt and pillow.

Ken Richmond

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MyNorth.com

architect

231 946 04 00 Ri c hmon d Arch it ec ts.n et

How popular are Murphy beds?

In the last five years we’ve really seen a resurgence of them. A lot of that has to do with people downsizing. If they want to have a bedroom double as an office, for example, they don’t want a bed taking up all the space. So the room serves your function, and when someone comes to visit they have a very comfortable bed.

Starting price?

About $3,000.

trends!

TRUCK TENTS Who: Stuart Christie, Brand Specialist, Napier Outdoors We couldn’t help falling in love with these cool tents made to snuggle right around your truck, SUV or minivan. Sure, they are made for sleeping out in the Northwoods, but what about as extra sleeping space for the grandkids when they visit? A step up from the old backyard tent, they keep kids (or adults!) off the wet, allergy-fueling ground.

We checked in with Napier’s Stuart Christie to get the deets.

“ U P N O R T H ” L I V I N G AT I T S B E S T !

These are made to fit on trucks, SUVs and minivans. How difficult is it to fit a tent to a specific vehicle?

The SUV, minivan model is one envelope. It has an elastic surround that makes it universal to any vehicle with a hatch. As for trucks, we have the specs to fit every model.

Do I need an engineering degree to set it up?

Definitely not. The first time you set it up it might take you around 20 minutes. After that, you can get it up and down in 10 minutes.

How portable and easy to store are they?

They come rolled up in a bag. The SUV model weighs between 20 and 25 pounds. The truck version weighs 15 pounds.

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Roominess?

The truck tent has 5.5 feet of head room. The SUV model is actually an outside tent that can be 7.5 feet or higher.

I’m having enough guests this summer to justify a new wing on my house. But, no can do.

What is one of these going to set me back? $289 for the truck tent; $329 for the SUV tent.

Go to napieroutdoors.com to find a dealer near you.

Call to find out more 231-938-3950 or visit www.Tamar ackLodgeTC.com

Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '19

NHC 13

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MyNorth.com

Great American Classic AFTER A FAMILY FROM FLORIDA DISCOVERED NORTHERN MICHIGAN, THE RENOVATION OF THEIR 19TH-CENTURY COTTAGE MADE US LOOK EVEN BETTER. TEXT BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS // PHOTOS BY JENNA ROLAND

Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '19

NHC 15

I

ncredibly, four years ago, the Florida-based owners of this magnificent 19thcentury cottage on Lake Michigan in Charlevoix knew virtually nothing about Michigan—especially Northern Michigan. Their dentist changed all that.

After hearing at their respective appointments of their four-year search to find the perfect summer home, the dentist waxed poetic about the sandy shoreline and blue water around his family’s cottage on Lake Michigan’s eastern shore. “If I were you I’d look there,” he told them.

16

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➤

Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '19

NHC 17

It was nearing Thanksgiving weekend of 2016 and the husband was intrigued enough to purchase plane tickets to Traverse City. A snowstorm delayed their arrival by eight hours. (“This might go on the, ‘Just a little too hard to get to list,’” the wife recalls thinking.)

Then there was a stormy 40-mile drive up US31 to Petoskey—where the waves were crashing high up the sides of the Petoskey Pierhead Lighthouse. “The kids were cracking up, like, really?” the wife says, laughing now herself.

Nevertheless, by the end of the weekend, the family had fallen in love with the area, especially Charlevoix. “We love Charlevoix,” the wife says. “It is a magical place for our family and friends to visit.”

➤

Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '19

NHC 19

231.946.1234 env-arch.com

Ready ... Set ... Bake!

Our mission is to help you “feel @ home”!

231.946.1234 • env-arch.com

en•vi•ron•ment noun • 1. the surroundings or conditions in which a person, animal, or plant lives or operates.

Out-of-the-Ordinary furniture, clothing, home decor, jewelry, and more all presented in an antique farmer’s co-op potato warehouse

231.946.1234 env-arch.com

Monday thru Saturday 10-6 Sunday 12-4 314 S. Otsego - Gaylord - 989.731.0330

OLDSPUDWAREHOUSE.COM

20

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808 South Garfield Avenue Suite B, Traverse City MI 49686 | 231.947.7040 www.homecabinetryandinteriors.com

Back in Florida again, their Realtor sent them photos of an older cottage on Lake Michigan near Charlevoix that had just been listed. “It looked cozy,” the wife says. “It wasn’t a monstrosity. I didn’t want something so big that I’d have to ask, ‘Where are my kids?’”

This time, the husband went up alone to check it out—and called his wife after he’d seen the cottage to tell her, “I think you are going to like this.”

This was an early-last-century classic Craftsman cottage. Its wide front porch topped with a gabled roof, low-pitched gable main roof and generous eaves spoke to an era when the stuffy pretensions of Victorian cottages were giving way to a more relaxed lifestyle. Inside, however, the old home was suffering from a patchwork of renovations over the decades that conflicted with her intrinsic style. But the bottom-line selling point: A wide-open lake view from nearly every room in the house.

➤

Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '19

NHC 21

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22

MyNorth.com

MyNorth is the home of Traverse Magazine

Red Hot

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To make their dream home a reality, the couple hired MPN (Miller, Poineau & Naumes), a construction firm known for some of the finest work in Northern Michigan. Over the course of his decades working in the area, Andy Poineau, recently retired, garnered a reputation for exquisitely crafted homes that exude a period feel.

Andy’s talent combined with a skilled team presided over by Chris Miller, tackled the reno—from replacing supporting beams to rebuilding the rickety staircase with a handsome new version that winds from the ground floor up to the third. The interior was gutted down to the studs in most cases. Some walls were removed but much of the home’s original floor plan is preserved—as were some irreplaceable antique windows that are original to the home.

➤

Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '19

NHC 23

Photography by Beth Singer

“When done beautifully, Architecture will have the same power over the mind and spirit as music or poetry or any works of art, creating meaningful human experiences.”

EVERY T H I NG RUGS

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MyNorth.com

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The homeowners were in on every design decision from materials to the fabulously intricate molding, wainscoting and coffered ceilings—though they happily yielded to Poineau’s advice when he gave it: “He’d say, ‘No, this is not what this home would have’, to some of my ideas,” recalls the wife. “After I’d say, ‘You were right.’”

A close collaboration between the homeowners and interior designer Jana Phillips resulted in fresh, contemporary design choices that seamlessly hint at this cottage’s journey—from the Arts & Crafts era (white oak floor, zinc breakfast nook table and hand-fabricated zinc range hood) to tell-tale Art Deco patterns in a bathroom wallpaper, and sofa cushions embellished with bright poppies that feel as timeless as a Beatles’ hit. The end result reads like a great American cottage classic—one that is ready for a whole new chapter.

Elizabath Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home & Cottage. lissa@traversemagazine.com

Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '19

NHC 25

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PERFECT PARTNERS

Great American Classic, page 14

CONTRACTOR MPN (Miller, Poineau & Naumes), mpnbuild.com INTERIOR DESIGN Jana Phillips Interiors Inc., interiorsincpetoskey.com LANDSCAPE Drost Landscape, drostlandscape.com APPLIANCES Witbeck, Big George’s, big-georges.com COUNTERTOPS Capital Granite, capitalgraniteinc.com DOOR HARDWARE American Total Security, 231.675.8251 ELECTRICAL Bear River Electric, briverelectric.com HARDWOOD FLOORING LeGrand Wood Floor, legrandwoodfloors.com HEATING & PLUMBING Ballard’s Plumbing & Heating, ballards-ph.com INSULATION T.C. Insulating Company, tcinsulating.net MASONRY Brian Berger Masonry, 231.886.0434 PAINTING Up North Painters, 231.886.0434 ROOFING Cosier Roofing, cosierroofing.com SECURITY Habitec Security, habitecsecurity.com

BRINGING YOU THE FINEST STONE & TILE FOR 20 YEARS

GLASS SHOWER DOORS Mike’s Glass, mikes-glass.com TILE & MARBLE Great Lakes Tile & Contracting, greatlakestile.net WINDOWS Old Mission Windows, oldmissionwindows.com

fabrication, service & design Traverse City • 231.929.2848 • stratusmarble.com

Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '19

NHC 27

Home Sweet Crystal Lake WHEN THE FAMILY GETS TOO BIG FOR A TREASURED COTTAGE, THEY DECIDE TO FIND A DIFFERENT SPOT ON THE LAKE. BUT COULD A NEW BUILD EVER BE AS BELOVED? TEXT BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS // PHOTOS BY DAVID SPECKMAN

28

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Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '19

NHC 29

s a very young child, Mark’s parents loaded him and his three older siblings into a station wagon to travel from their home in Saginaw to “try out” Northern Michigan lakes. The idea was to find one that the family would go back to summer after summer. It only took one visit to Crystal Lake for the family to form a lifelong commitment to this aquamarine gem of Benzie County.

His parents purchased their pretty ranch on the beach in the mid `60s. They never missed a summer with their kids, a tradition that those kids continued with their kids. To say they are a close-knit family is an understatement. The entire extended clan eats all of their meals together when they are at the lake.

But with his parents now great-grandparents, well, the family cottage was getting a bit crowded …

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➤

Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '19

NHC 31

Home Hearth HOT TUBS | FIREPLACES | BILLIARDS S A L E S | S E R V I C E | I N S TA L L AT I O N 1 1 5 1 S O U T H A I R P O RT R D, T R AV E R S E C I T Y P H I L L I P S H O M E A N D H E A RT H . C O M | 2 3 1 . 9 2 9 . 1 3 9 6

NASTY CRAWL SPACE? Protect your investment and reduce musty odors.

Bradley J. Butcher, AIA bbutcher@sidockgroup.com 989.705.8400 • sidockgroup.com Novi • Wyandotte • Lansing Muskegon • Gaylord • Sault Ste. Marie featured on

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That’s about when Mark discovered a lot on Crystal Lake about a half mile from his parents. Empty lots on Crystal Lake’s north shore are few and far between. Even so, breaking up the tight clan was a big decision. But in the end, Mark and his wife, Anne, knew it was time.

And that if they were going to build their own Crystal Lake legacy, it had to be just the right house. But what should it look like? They really couldn’t imagine.

One look at the thoughtful, Shingle-style home that now graces that lot is to know that this is the right house, down to the shake siding that is stained a pale, almost indescribable shade of sage-aqua-gray—helping the home to blend into the Crystal Lake shoreline. The homeowners credit Midlake Builders with a flawless construction process and long conversations with their architect, Ken Richmond, for capturing the essence of their fondest summer memories in the design. “We sat down and just had an interesting conversation,” recalls Anne, who was raised in the East. “… what makes me comfortable, my history. He wanted to hear everything.”

Anne told of summers in Rhode Island and of cabin vacations in the Adirondack Mountains.

For a local reflection of that vernacular Richmond only needed to look a couple miles up the road to Chimney Corners Resort, where the main lodge is a historic shake-sided building famous for its four stone chimneys.

➤

Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '19

NHC 33

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In response to Anne’s request that the bedroom wing be designed to keep sounds from the adjacent living area muted, Richmond placed a wonderful, hand-hewn chimney between the two wings. The chimney, fabricated from rocks culled from Michigan farm fields, is an outgrowth of the great room’s wall-sized fireplace facade—one so grand that it actually wraps around the wall, into the foyer, and clads one side of the open stairwell.

Yes, people sleep peacefully in the quiet bedroom wing.

And they live happily in the great room whose soft palette reflects the shades of sand and water on the Crystal Lake shoreline just outside the door. Like the stone fireplace and chimney, a generous use of flagstone in the foyer, white oak floor in the great room, wooden ceiling beams, and a rough-sawn bar counter between the kitchen and the dining room, reflect Richmond’s affection for natural materials.

In scale, this home slips into its narrow, shoreside site perfectly. In its relaxed flow and intimate understanding of what type of home builds generations of bonds between people and place, it is genius.

Elizabath Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home & Cottage. lissa@traversemagazine.com

Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '19

NHC 35

GREAT LAKES RECLAIMED “Inspired Home Goods for the Lake, Cottage & Cabin Lifestyle”

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resources

Home Sweet Crystal Lake, page 28

ARCHITECT Richmond Architects, richmondarchitects.com CONTRACTOR Midlake Builders, midlakebuilders.com INTERIOR DESIGN Second Wind Design, 207.284.6216 PAINTING Traverse Bay Painting, 231.342.3889 LANDSCAPE ARCHITECT Anita Silverman, 231.932.1925 MASONRY Novak Masonry, 231.228.5251 CABINETRY Nowak Cabinets, nowakcabinets.com

1776 M-37 South, Traverse City

Phone: (231)943-3440 Fax: (231)943-3441 Email: Naturesedge1776@gmail.com

Granite, Marble, Quartz, Quartzite, Limestone, Onyx, and Soapstone Surfaces Professional Fabrication & Installation Free Estimates

Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '19

NHC 37

Legacy Home A TALENTED ARCHITECT GIFTS HIS WIFE AND FAMILY WITH A HOME THAT DRAWS ON HIS YEARS OF EXPERIENCE— AND HIS LOVE FOR THEM. TEXT BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS // PHOTOS BY JACQUELINE SOUTHBY

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Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '19

NHC 39

ver the course of several years, Tom and Liz Borger checked out roughly a thousand different lakefront properties from Ludington to Mackinac Island.

Ten years ago, the Elkhart, Indiana, couple headed down quiet Skegemog Lake Point—a road that runs between Elk and Skegemog lakes—and fell in love with a deep, forested lot. The bonus was a ridge from which they could enjoy sunsets across Elk Lake.

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➤

Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '19

NHC 41

ALL MAY 2019

ROSÉ ALL MAY Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail

MYNORTHTICKETS.COM 800.836.0717 125 PARK STREET TRAVERSE CITY, MI 49684

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The Borgers cleaned up the old fishing cottage on the property and used it as a summer home until it was clear the old building was beyond repair. Luckily, Thomas is an architect who has built a reputation designing iconic lakefront homes from Chicago to Northern Michigan. During his long career, he’s found joy in using his design abilities to interpret his clients’ visions. So, when he was his own client, he had no trouble defining what he wanted out of a new home on Elk Lake—a vision he shared with Liz. The couple wanted their home to be an expression of their own tastes and sensibilities—that meant, among other details, it would blend into its wooded setting and have a strong connection to the outdoors. Also on their list was a great room large enough for their friends and family to gather. ➤

Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '19

NHC 43

Welcome Home THE 2019 REAL ESTATE GUIDE COMING IN JULY

Subscribe to Traverse, Northern Michigan's Magazine to receive your copy!

MyNorth.com/Subscribe For advertising requests, email sales@mynorth.com or call 231-941-8174. Hurry! Spots are filling up.

West Michigan

of

Grand Rapids

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Our sunrooms, WeatherMaster® windows, decks and railings are designed for a worry-free experience. They are designed to extend your enjoyment of the outdoors without common annoyances like wind, rain, insects and harmful U.V. Rays. A Sunspace Sunroom, as well as our WeatherMaster® products will not only add beauty and comfort to any home or cottage, but also increase the value.

WEATHERMASTER® In contractor Eric Render and his team at Render Construction, the Borgers

WINDOWS & DOORS

found the skill and talent to put Thomas’s design into timber and stone. Cascading down the wooded slope in five separate levels, this home is truly a masterpiece in serenity and detail. Tom’s exquisite use of detail and symmetry is apparent on the exterior with its handsome stone foundation, interesting rooflines and siding that is a textural mural of shingles, board and batten and shiplap—all stained a transparent charcoal that blends perfectly into the trees around the home.

On the inside, hickory floors, alder trim and a natural fireplace are backdrops to the dramatic Elk Lake view. And just as Tom planned, the home transitions to the outdoors with a large open-air room that centers around a fieldstone fireplace.

Several other patios offer more connection to the outdoors, as do two terraces set along the slope to the beach.

This is a magnificent home that abounds with design inspiration courtesy of a

Traverse city

brilliant architect and a talented builder.

231-360-9827

Elizabath Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home & Cottage. lissa@traversemagazine.com

616-249-8712

Grand Rapids

sunspacewestmichigan.com

Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '19

NHC 45

Proud Partners With See one of our professionals today!

Honor Building Supply

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1132 Main Street Frankfort, MI 49635 800-262-5278 FAX: 231-352-9562 www.honorbldgsupply.com

“Your Inspiration Starts Here”

resources Legacy Home, page 38

CONTRACTOR Render Construction, renderconstruction.com METAL WORK Ace Welding, aceweldingtc.com

Fine cabinetry For your home Jill Brecheisen, Designer • kitchensbydesignpetoskey.com 214 Petoskey St. • 231.347.8400 • Downtown Petoskey

ELECTRONIC AND AUTOMATION SYSTEM American Home Technology, ahtech.com FLOORING Carpet Galleria, carpetgalleria.com HVAC D&W Mechanical, dwmechanical.com FIXTURES Ferguson Enterprises, ferguson.com APPLIANCES Max’s Service, maxsservice.com WINDOWS Old Mission Windows, oldmissionwindows.com BUILDING SUPPLIES Preston Feather, prestonfeather.com The Lumber Shed, thelumbershed.biz TRIM, MOLDING Thomas & Milliken Millwork, Inc, tmmill.com

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CABINETRY Wolverine Cabinet Company, wolverinecabinet.com

Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '19

NHC 47

Barn Elevated

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When they are downstate, Barb and Dave Dubensky live a quintessential Detroit lifestyle. He works in commercial property,

in Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. The federal government purchased the land when the park was established in 1970.

she owns her own insurance company. They have a contemporary

The Dubenskys search for the perfect property took them from

condo. So, when they decided to pursue their dream of a second

Benzie County almost to the Mackinac Bridge. Along the way, they

home Up North, they wanted something very different. Something

realized another criteria for their future second home: they wanted

with a rural industrial vibe. They envisioned a modern riff on the

it to feel away from it all—but still have proximity to Traverse City

barn, one of the most ancient agricultural structures of all.

and its restaurants, bars and entertainment.

Dave, in particular, was so struck by a photo he came across of a European barn that he made it his screensaver.

The moment they saw a piece on the East Grand Traverse Bayside of Old Mission Peninsula, they knew it was the one. Only about

Barb loved it too. But it was the property they would build on

10 miles from downtown Traverse City, the wooded lot is nearly

that was her particular focus. The setting that would steal her heart

hidden under a tree-covered bluff. “The way the water looked through

had a tall order: It needed to feel like her childhood summers on an

the trees gave me the same feeling I remember at Pyramid Point,”

unforgettable tract of shoreline that her parents owned on Pyramid

Barb says.

➤

Point—now one of the most inspirational and popular attractions

Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '19

NHC 49

50

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Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '19

NHC 51

52

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Phase I. Check. Phase II. Find an architect. The couple asked

The simple genius of the home begins at the entry with its glass

around, got a name, brought their European barn photo to the

door framed by a wall of windows. The view line through the panes

firm—explained their vision more in depth and … the firm came

leads straight across the great room, through a matching glass wall/

back with a plan for; “A house,” Dave laughs. “Just a plain old house.”

door system, out to the soft aqua and blues of East Grand Traverse

They said “No, Thank You” and, fortunately not long after, got

Bay.

the name of Ray Kendra of Environment Architects in Traverse

Inside, a muted palette and natural materials blend with the

City. Kendra, who specializes in the many facets and subtleties of

scenery outside the windows. The floor is dove-colored, polished

modern architecture, grasped their vision immediately.

concrete—a tone picked up in the leathered granite countertops

At its heart, Kendra’s design (executed masterfully by builder

in the small but efficient open kitchen. A plane of smooth-fronted,

David Thomas of LTD Construction) is as simple as that European

silvery-brown cabinetry stretches across and up the kitchen’s back

barn Dave couldn’t shake from his mind. A rectangular structure

wall, housing everything from pantry items to the refrigerator.

clad in stone and wood, the home rises 34 feet to a peaked roof.

Exposed black steel beams, treated with a clear lacquer finish to

The modern elements are seamless—stacked stone instead of field-

show off their natural steel character, present a handsome, indus-

stone, a black steel roof and an abundance of black-framed, paned

trial vibe.

➤

windows.

Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '19

NHC 53

BE A PART OF OUR BIGGEST EVENT OF THE YEAR!

TOUR PETOSKEY

TRAVERSE CITY

SEPTEMBER 14, 2019

OCTOBER 19, 2019

Builders, architects, and designers ... This is your chance to show off your work to more than 800 visitors from around the Midwest and beyond. All ticket proceeds go to Child and Family Services of Northwestern Michigan.

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Open risers with white oak treads and goat fencing balustrades lead up to a white oak catwalk that connects a guest room and an office, both of which are outfitted with balconies.

One of Kendra’s unmistakable touches shines up here where a generous skylight, which opens a view to the water, is mounted with drywall-wrapped trusses to create changing architectural shadows.

Another touch is as utilitarian as it is evocative of the structure’s spirit. When the Dubenskys leave the home, they pull barn doors—a set each on both the front and back of the home—across the glass walls, leaving their home secure both physically and in its designed sensibility.

Elizabath Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home & Cottage. lissa@traversemagazine.com

Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '19

NHC 55

resources Barn Elevated, page 48

ARCHITECT Ray Kendra, Environment Architects, env-arch.com CONTRACTOR Dave Thomas, LTD Construction, ltdconstructioninc.com ELECTRICAL Consolidated Electrical Contractors, conelectric.com PLUMBING Aqua-Tek Plumbing, 231.631.6433 HVAC Grant Mechanical, heatingcoolingtraversecity.com PAINTING Ideal Painting, 231.252.3080 CONCRETE, MASONRY, STONE Craig Therrien Masonry, 231.275.7150

Total Commitment to Quality

STEEL Northwoods Products, 231.477.5135 FIREPLACE Positive Chimney and Fireplace, positivechimney.com GARAGE DOOR Cadillac Garage Door, michigangaragedoor.com WINDOWS Pella Windows, pella.com LUMBER Honor Lumber, honorbldgsupply.com ROOFING Advanced Applicators, 231.970.0401 CABINETS Britten Woodworks, brittenwoodworks.com FLOORING Northern Floor and Tile Service, northernfloor.com

More than 25 years of experience in building distinctive homes while exceeding the expectations of discriminating clients. jim@cooleycontracting. com

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SHOWER GLASS TC Mirror & Shower Door, tcmirrorandshowerdoor.com

10262 SW Torch Lake Dr. - Rapid City, MI 49676 Draper.Construction@yahoo.com | 231.322.3015

AaronDraperConstruction.com

Quality Attention to every detail

Dining RESTAURANT GUIDE | LOCAL TABLE | DRINKS

TEXT BY TIM TEBEAU | PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

Brian's Ice Cream Experience Beneath a cone-shaped beacon hung slightly askance in Charlevoix's Van Pelt Alley, the psychedelic chalkboard at Brian’s Ice Cream Experience shouts out today’s flavors: cherry basil, salted caramel, vanilla rhubarb bourbon, riotously pink beet poppy seed, and Brian’s favorite, chocolate. Working their magic into a dense and delightful alchemy of Shetler’s cream, organic tapioca syrup and local produce plucked fresh from the adjacent farmer’s market, Brian and Emily Freund wake up often before the summer sun to churn three gallon microbatches of mind-bendingly delicious, seasonally inspired ice cream and trays of exquisite handmade red velvet or margarita macarons. Brian’s flavors are inventive and sometimes avant-garde, infused with fresh herbs from Providence Farms, Sweetwater lavender grown near the shore of Walloon Lake, and fresh strawberries plucked from patches at Dhaseleer Farm. Read on this month as we celebrate summer’s onset chasing the North’s best brain freezes.4

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN '19

89

Share a sunset with us.

Enjoy outdoor seating.

Open for lunch & dinner April - November, 11:00 am - 11:00 pm Delicious Food • Beverages • Cocktails Casual & Fun • Family Friendly • Amazing Sunsets!

6340 Old Torch Lake Drive, Bellaire, MI 49615

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PONTOON & WAVERUNNER RENTALS On Torch Lake, Michigan docksidetorchlake.com/rentals WE PROVIDE TOP OF THE LINE, “NEW” 2018-2019 “MADE IN MICHIGAN”, AVALON BRAND TRI-TOONS Featuring “MERCURY“ quiet running, 4-stroke motors (225 hp to 250 hp) providing the power needed to enjoy your day on the water.

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25’

ice cream | dining

FOODIE FILE

Brian Freund CO-OWNER WITH WIFE, EMILY FREUND BRIAN’S ICE CREAM EXPERIENCE, CHARLEVOIX

Ice cream savant, Brian Freund, found his calling during a late night Food Network binge. After test marketing his frozen art on friends and family, Brian and his wife, Emily, moved north to Charlevoix and committed to spreading happiness via small batch ice creams, crepes and macarons. We sit down with Brian for a glimpse inside his frozen genius and learn about the cult of morel ice cream.

How is a batch of Brian’s ice cream born?

Everything we do is small scale and painstakingly from scratch.

Shetler’s milk and cream get cooked in a big pot with organic tapioca syrup, infused with fresh local ingredients and then churned slowly. Most ice cream has 50% air but ours is only 25% which makes it so dense and rich. Each three gallon batch takes over three hours.

That’s a lot of work. What’s the reward?

Well, I get to spend the whole day working alongside my wife, Emily, and I really love ice cream; it never tastes better than when it first comes out of the machine, which I get to enjoy every morning.

ON THE ROAD

Find frozen euphoria at these handmade ice creameries.

AMERICAN SPOON GELATO CAFÉ 413 EAST LAKE STREET, PETOSKEY | 231.347.7004

MOOMERS 7263 LONG LAKE ROAD, TRAVERSE CITY | 231.941.4122

HILLTOP SODA SHOP

How do the flavors follow the season?

The ice cream case in our shop reflects what’s happening at the farmers market across the street. When strawberries start to come in we have strawberry ice cream which morphs into strawberry black pepper, then strawberry rhubarb, then rhubarb vanilla bourbon. When Pond Hill Farm’s beets are in we’ll make beet-poppy seed.

But it was morel ice cream that put you on the map, right?

Yes. At first we were just selling ice cream at the farmers market and I needed a way to get people’s attention so we made morel ice cream and sold it at the Morel Mushroom Festival.

Now it’s a spring staple.

Shine some light on the marriage of ice cream and fungus, please.

We take dried morels and steep them for days in Shelter’s cream to extract the flavor, then I finely chop them to be folded in the base with vanilla. The mushrooms add a depth of flavor and umami to the vanilla.

7117 SOUTH STREET, BENZONIA | 231.882.9697

ARCADIA ICE HOUSE 17073 6TH STREET, ARCADIA | 231.889.4555

Traverse food and drinks editor Tim Tebeau writes from Petoskey. dining@traversemagazine.com. // Dave Weidner is a freelance photographer based in Traverse City. dweidnerphoto@gmail.com.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN '19

91

THE GREY GABLES INN RESTAURANT A Part of Charlevoix’s Heritage Since 1936

Celebrating 25 Years

Charlevoix’s Best Kept Secret

Charlevoix’s Best Kept Secret

Serving Dinner • Cocktails • Sushi Menu • Piano Bar • Live Entertainment 308 BELVEDERE AVENUE • CHARLEVOIX, MICHIGAN 231.547.9261 • WWW.GREYGABLESINN.COM

2 36 E F RO N T ST. T RAV ERSE CI T Y ge or ginast aque ria .com (2 31) 943-1555

Serving Dinner • Cocktails • Sushi Menu Live Entertainment • Piano Bar Reservations Welcome Featuring SEA TO TABLE concept all Fall!

Banquet & Catering Facilities THE GREYRoom GABLES INN RESTAURANT

b

A Part of Charlevoix’s Heritage Since 1936

Serving Dinner • Cocktails • Sushi Menu • Live Piano Bar • Entertainment on Weekends Reservations Welcome • Banquet Room & Catering Facilities • Now Taking Holiday Reservations 308 BELVEDERE AVENUE • CHARLEVOIX, MICHIGAN 308 BELVEDERE AVENUE • CHARLEVOIX, MICHIGAN • 231.547.9261 • WWW.GREYGABLESINN.COM

231.547.9261 • WWW.GREYGABLESINN.COM

Elizabeth Blair

FinePearls

Vibrant Summer Necessities 115 W. Main Street ~ Harbor Springs, MI ~ 231.526.7500 WestMainPearls.com ~ ElizabethBlair.com Jewelers of America Cultured Pearl Association of America american Gem Society

92

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5 31 W F RO N T ST. T RAV ERSE C I T Y (2 31) 252-3086

restaurant guide | dining

RESTAURANT GUIDE Find More Northern Michigan Restaurants at MyNorth.com/Restaurants

Mulligan’s Inviting pub with steamed littleneck clams, shrimp-topped burgers and pasta. LD • BAR • $–$$ 320 NORTH MAIN ST., CHEBOYGAN, 231.627.2459

Original Pancake House Crepes, waffles, pancakes, omelettes, egg specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$ 840 FRONT ST., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.2770

Vintage Chophouse/ Wine Bar All-American steakhouse flavored with retro sophistication. LD • BAR • $-$$$

INN AT BAY HARBOR AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION, 3600 VILLAGE HARBOR DR., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.4051

Vivio’s Northwood Inn Locals love this cozy, rustic, wildlife-decorated log cabin with Italian cuisine and specialty pizzas. LD • BAR • $-$$ 4531 S. STRAITS HWY., INDIAN

| WATER VIEW

RIVER, 231.238.9471

BLD | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER BAR | ALCOHOL SERVED

MACKINAC ISLAND & MACKINAW CITY

$ | ENTRÉES INDER $10

Amigo Burrito Mexican Grill Burritos, tacos and quesadillas made to order. Dine in or carry out. Located in Murray Hotel’s lobby. LD • $ 7260 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND,

$$ | $10-20 $$$ | ABOVE $20

906.847.8010

Mackinac Island Mackinaw City Pellston Harbor Springs Bay Harbor Petoskey

Cannonball Drive In Burgers, sandwiches, pizza, ice cream, fried pickles and more. Dine inside or out. Located at historic British Landing. BBQ hayrides peak season, call for reservations. Group meals and hayrides available. LD • $ 7641 BRITISH LANDING RD., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.0932

Carriage House at Hotel Iroquois Old-World charm, piano bar. Regional menu: whitefish, filet mignon and seafood. BLD • BAR • $$$ MAIN ST. ON THE WATER, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3321

Cawthorne’s Village Inn Planked whitefish, desserts.

Gaylord

BLD • BAR • $$ 1384 HOBAN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3542

Chuckwagon Mackinac Island’s quintessential diner. BL • Traverse City

Frankfort

Cadillac

Manistee

PETOSKEY & MACKINAC STRAITS ALANSON/BAY HARBOR/ BRUTUS/CHEBOYGAN/ INDIAN RIVER/ODEN The Boat House Seafood-centric, überfresh cuisine with contemporary presentation in a 1940s boathouse right on the Cheboygan River. D • BAR • $-$$ 106 PINE ST., CHEBOYGAN, 231.627.4316

Black Mountain Lodge Hikers on Black Mountain love settling in post-walkabout for the glorious view of East Twin Lake and freshly prepared trout, perch, quail, lobster and homemade bread with honey-walnut butter.

D • BAR $$-$$$ 10621 TWIN LAKES RD., CHEBOYGAN, 231.625.9322

Brutus Camp Deli Breakfast spot famous for its homemade food, big portions and rustic décor. BL • $ 4086 US31, BRUTUS, 231.529.2222

Dutch Oven Café and Deli French toast and farmers omelet stratas, sandwiches on famous homemade bread. BL • $ 7611 U.S. 31, ALANSON, 231.548.2231

Fox & Rose

Knot Just a Bar Contemporary sports and oyster bar perched on the Bay Harbor marina. B • $ 4165 MAIN STREET, BAY HARBOR, 231.439.9989

Mighty Mac Hamburgers Breakfast sandwiches, burgers, hot dogs, chicken sandwiches and more. Indoor seating or carryout. BL • $ 7463 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.8039 Millie’s on Main Charming soda fountain and grill. LD • $ 7296 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.9901

Mission Point Resort Bistro on the Greens— LD • BAR • $ The Round Island Bar & Grill—Burgers and sandwiches LD • BAR • $ Chianti—upscale, affordable Italian.

Lakeside Marketplace—gourmet pizzas and hot dogs BLD • $$-$$$ 1 LAKESHORE DRIVE, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3312

Mr. B’s Pizza, coney dogs, soft-serve ice cream and more overlooking the Straits. L • $ 7367 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3530

Murray Hotel Breakfast buffet of scrambled eggs, homestyle potatoes, sausage, bacon and more. B • $ 7260 MAIN

ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 855.696.8772

Mustang Lounge Traditional bar grub, burgers, dogs, pizza and an array of great fried munchies. BL • BAR • $-$$ 8 ASTOR ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.9916

Pancake House Breakfast sandwiches, omelets, Plath smoked meats, waffles, pancakes, deli sandwiches and more. BL • $ 102 MAIN ST., 906.847.3829 The Pink Pony Bar & Grill The island’s entertainment oasis—loud, bustling, with pastas and steaks. LD • Smokey Jose's Water-side restaurant where BBQ and bourbon meet tacos & tequila. LD • BAR • $-$$ 7263 MAIN

8593 CUDAHY CIRCLE, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3355

Dog House Hot dogs, nachos, chips and more. Picnic tables under big umbrellas. Located at Windermere Point on the Straits of Mackinac. LD • $ 7498 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.6586

Feedbag Donuts made daily. Hot dogs, brats and more.

Located near the Surrey Hills Carriage Museum. BL • $

CADOTTE AVE., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3593

Gate House Casual inside and outside eating with live music and televisions. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1547 CADOTTE AVENUE, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3772

Goodfellows Italian Chop House Fun Italian cuisine in a comfortable atmosphere. Classic and tasty sandwiches, pastas, pizzas, steaks and seafood. BLD • BAR • $$$ 1395 HOBAN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.0270

Grand Hotel Main Dining Room—coat and tie for gentlemen, dresses or pantsuits for ladies, for full breakfast, lunch buffet and 5-course dinner. BLD • BAR • $$$ 286 GRAND AVE., MACKINAC ISLAND, 800.33-GRAND

Horn’s Gaslight Bar Southwestern cuisine. LD • BAR • $ 7300 MAIN ST., 906.847.6154

Island House 1852 Grill Room—Prime rib, chicken, seafood, veal. BD • BAR Ice House BBQ—casual dining, burgers, gourmet sandwiches, sweet potato fries and creative martinis. LD • BAR • $$ 6966 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND,

231.625.2919

STAR LINE DOCK, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.9911

BAR • $$ MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3341

The Greenside Grille at Indian River Golf Club Serving a complete menu and Happy Hour offerings overlooking the 9th hole. LD • BAR • $–$$$ 3301 CHIPPEWA BEACH RD., Hack-Ma-Tack Inn Classic 1894-era hunting and fishing lodge on the Cheboygan River near Mullett Lake specializes in steaks and seafood. Dock space and overnight slips. LD • BAR • $-$$ 8131 BEEBE RD., CHEBOYGAN,

Mary’s Bistro Well-rounded menu of bistro fare and the most taps on the island. LD • BAR • $-$$ MAIN ST. AT

Cudahy Chophouse Steaks, chops and fresh fish at this restaurant in Stonecliff Manor tucked away in the woods up island. Reservations recommended. D • BAR • $$-$$$

Huron Street Pub & Grill Classic pub food. LD • BAR • $-$$ 7304 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.8255

INDIAN RIVER, 231.238.8515

ISLAND, 855.696.8772

$ 7400 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.0019

Steaks, fish, seafood. LD • BAR • $$$ 795

FRONT ST., BAY HARBOR, 231.752.2122

Lucky Bean Coffee House Fresh pastries and coffee all day. $ 7383 MARKET ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 248.342.2988 Mama LaRosa’s Pizza Buffet Pizza buffet with salad bar.

Located in the Murray Hotel. LD • $ 7260 MAIN ST., MACKINAC

906.847.3347

Island Slice Pizzeria, bakery and ice cream shop. Located at the Horse Corral Mall. LD • $ 7248 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.8100

Jockey Club at the Grand Stand Located on the first tee of The Jewel golf course. Sandwiches, salads, full dinner menu. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ GRAND AVE., MACKINAC ISLAND,

ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.0466

Seabiscuit Café Cozy exposed-brick walled pub in a restored 1880s bank building. Sip a brew and dine on a wonderfully eclectic menu. LD • BAR • $-$$ MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3611

Sushi Grand Mackinac Island’s first and only sushi restaurant opens this year. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1547 CADOTTE AVE., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906. 847.3772

Tea Room at Fort Mackinac Refreshments with a view of the harbor and Straits of Mackinac. BL • BAR • $ INSIDE FORT MACKINAC, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3331

Yankee Rebel Tavern Warm, casual restaurant highlighting updated renditions of American culinary classics in a rustic, colonial setting. LD • BAR • $-$$ 101 ASTOR ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.6249

Woods Elegant mansion in the island’s interior that offers casual fine dining, extensive wine list and duck pin bowling. LD • BAR • $$$ 8655 CUDAHY CIR., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3699

Audie’s Chippewa Room—Whitefish prepared six ways

by Chef Nicklaus Jaggi along with seasonal Michigan fare.

D • BAR • $$ The Family Room—Northwoodsy ambience, Formica tabletops. BLD • BAR • $$ 314 N. NICOLET, MACKINAW CITY, 231.436.5744

Darrow’s Family Restaurant 50s-era classic eatery open seasonally with fresh fish, roast pork and beef, skyhigh pies, and other wholesome family fare. LD • $-$$ 301 LOUVIGNY, MACKINAW CITY, 231.436.551

Nonna Lisa’s Italian Ristorante Stromboli, chicken parmesan, rosemary salmon, Nutella pizza. LD • BAR • $-$$ 312 S. HURON, MACKINAW CITY, 231.436.7901

Scalawags Whitefish & Chips Family restaurant with a nautical atmosphere features local whitefish, chowder and, of course, chips. LD • BAR • $ 226 E. CENTRAL, MACKINAW CITY, 231.436.7777

906.847.3331

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN '19

93

dining | restaurant guide

READY TO MAKE MEMORIES?

CROSS VILLAGE/HARBOR SPRINGS/ PELLSTON/PETOSKEY American Spoon Café Gleaming black-and-white full-service cafe. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 413 E. LAKE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.7004

Barrel Back Smoked pork tacos, chopped salads, gourmet pizza and pasta, grilled beef tenderloin and more.

Over 20 craft beers on tap and signature cocktails. LD • BAR $-$$$ 04069 M75, WALLOON LAKE, 231.535.6000

Beards Brewery Pizza, burgers, salads, wings and culinary surprises including pho. LD • BAR $$ 215 E LAKE ST.

PETOSKEY, 231.753.2221

The Bistro Local favorite for saucer-sized homemade pancakes, home-cooked comfort food and soups like carrot bisque and chicken ’n’ dumpling. BL • $ 423 MICHIGAN ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.5583

Boyne Highlands Main Dining Room—Casual American with Scottish influences. Focus on fresh, seasonal, local ingredients. Seminole Pub. BLD • BAR • $–$$ 600 HIGHLANDS DR., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.3000

Chandler’s Brick-walled and -floored dining inside or on the patio offers two ways to savor this art-filled eatery’s upscale menu. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 215 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, BELOW SYMONS GENERAL STORE, 231.347.2981

City Park Grill Hemingway drank at the massive mahogany bar in this casual spot. Scratch cuisine, wood grill, hand-cut steaks, pastas, fresh whitefish, and live entertainment. LD • BAR • $$ 432 E. LAKE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.0101 Cormack’s Deli Award-winning deli featuring fabulous sandwiches, soups and bbq, open Mon.-Fri. 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. BL • $ 2569 CHARLEVOIX AVE., PETOSKEY, 231.347.7570 Dam Site Inn With views of the Maple River, this classic family dining establishment offers a bit of everything plus all-you-can-eat chicken dinners. D • BAR • $$$$$ 6705 WOODLAND RD., PELLSTON, 231.539.8851

The Depot Club & Restaurant Sophisticated menu including miso oven-braised lamb shanks and char-grilled tenderloin medallions with classic cognac sauce and wild mushrooms. D • WED. - SAT. 111 W. BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.4233

Douglas Lake Bar & Steakhouse Up North ambience, two fireplaces and a view of the lake pair with big steaks, whitefish, ribs and lamb. D • BAR • $$$ 7314 DOUGLAS LAKE RD., PELLSTON, 539.8588

Populace Coffee Artisan coffee and tea bar serving European-style pastries made on site and seasonally inspired lunch offerings. BL • BAR • $ 207 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, 231.838.9875

Duffy’s Garage and Grille Pasta, burgers, inventive pizzas LD • BAR • $$ 317 E LAKE ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3663 The Fish Restaurant Steaks, seafood and cocktails. D • BAR • $–$$$ 2983 STATE RD., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.3969

The Garden Café Farm-to-plate experience in a historic barn set on a working farm. Wine tasting from the on-site vineyard. L • LIGHT D • BAR • $ 5581 S LAKE SHORE DR., HARBOR SPRINGS , 231.526. FARM

Hoppies Landing Pizzas, grinders, nachos, local fish, specialty brews, beautiful views from the Observation Lounge. Pellston Regional Airport. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1395 US 31, PELLSTON, 231.539.8588

Jose’s Authentic taqueria with made-to-order Mex. LD • $ 309 PETOSKEY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3299

PURELUDINGTON.COM

Julienne Tomatoes Fresh sandwiches, comfort food, and homemade pastries like lemon raspberry bars, banana caramel flan. BL • $ 421 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, 231.439.9250 Legs Inn Timber and driftwood landmark set on a bluff above Lake Michigan that has been serving Polish and American specialties for the better part of a century.

Garden dining. Entertainment. LD • BAR 6425 LAKE SHORE DR. (M-119), CROSS VILLAGE, 231. 526.2281

94

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restaurant guide | dining

Rusty Saw Smokehouse traditional barbecue. LD • $$ 3459 US31, BRUTUS, 231. 529.6574

Thai Orchid Cuisine Outstandingly fresh and authentic noodles, curries and salads. LD • $-$$ 433 E. MITCHELL ST.,

Mim’s Mediterranean Grill A sunny hangout with homemade falafel, kebabs, spinach pie, saganaki and other Greek delights. LD • $-$$ 1823 U.S. 31 NORTH, PETOSKEY,

PETOSKEY, 231.487.9900

Mitchell Street Pub and Café Classic pub with fresh peanuts, fantastic nachos, Maurice salad, patty melts. LD

BLD • $ 250 E. MAIN ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.6041

New York Restaurant Looks like the East Coast, tastes like heaven. D • BAR • $$-$$$ CORNER OF STATE AND BAY,

SPRINGS, 231.242.4777

231.348.9994

• BAR • $-$$ 426 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231. 347.1801

HARBOR SPRINGS, 231. 526.1904

Odawa Casino Resort Sage—Sumptuous fine dining with curried grilled lamb loin, salmon saltimbocca, seared scallops and an extensive wine list. D, SUN. BRUNCH • BAR • $$-$$$ 1760 LEARS RD., PETOSKEY, 877.442.6464

Old World Cafe European-style breakfast and lunch. BL •

Turkey’s Cafe and Pizzeria Special omelets, bagels, French toast, burgers, pizzas, calzones, and sandwiches— served by friendly folks in a quaint 110-year-old building.

Vernales Restaurant Chop house, sports bar and wine bar with patio dining. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 3018 M119, HARBOR Villa Ristorante Italiano Chianti bottles hang from stucco walls and authentic handmade pasta, osso bucco and hand-rolled cannoli star. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 887 SPRING ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.1440

N E W Willow Inspired farm-to-table modern American

cuisine with global wine and craft cocktail bar. D • BAR • $$ 129 EAST BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.412.6032

Ellsworth

Bellaire

Frankfort

Traverse City

HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.2967

Manistee

Grayling

Cadillac

ALDEN/ATWOOD/BELLAIRE/BOYNE COUNTRY/ RAPID CITY/WALLOON

Sam’s Graces Café & Bakery Artisanal bakery and brick oven pizzeria. BL • $ 3393 STATE ST., HARBOR SPRINGS,

Bella Vita Casual fine dining Italian restaurant that utilizes the freshest ingredients northern Michigan has to offer whenever possible. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 02911 BOYNE CITY

BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3466

231.242.1230

RD., BOYNE CITY. 231.582.3341

Side Door Saloon Excellent sandwiches, quesadillas, steak, whitefish and pastas. LD • BAR • $ 1200 N. U.S. 31,

Boyne Mountain Resort Everett’s Restaurant & Lounge—Elegantly prepared fish and game dishes. BLD • BAR • $-$$$; Eriksen’s—Stunning view of the slopes and menu with Austrian and German touches. BLD • BAR • $-$$; Forty Acre Tavern—American pub fare with an extensive beer list. LD • BAR • $-$$ ONE BOYNE MOUNTAIN RD.,

Stafford’s Perry Hotel Circa-1899 hotel with wraparound front porch and killer views of Little Traverse Bay. LD • BAR • $$–$$$ CORNER OF BAY & LEWIS, PETOSKEY, 231.347.4000

Stafford’s Pier Regional cuisine. Pointer Room— fresh seafood. LD • BAR • $$ Dudley’s Deck—LD • BAR • $$ Chart Room—D • BAR • $$ 102 BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.6201

Tap30 Pourhouse Inventive sliders, award-winning chili, Frito pie and more along with 30 beers on tap. LD • BAR • $ 422 E MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9572

Teddy Griffin’s Roadhouse Casual spot to grab ribs, steak or fresh fish after golf or skiing and catch the game on TV. D • BAR • $$ 50 HIGHLAND PIKE RD., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.7805

Terrace Inn Planked whitefish and housemade desserts in a Victorian setting. D • BAR • $$ 1549 GLENDALE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.2410

• BAR • $$ 213 N BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.350.7301

That French Place Authentic French creperie and ice cream shop. BLD • $ 212 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6037 Bridge Street Taproom Michigan craft brews, beerfriendly small plates, local charcuterie and bird’s-eye views of the yacht traffic on Round Lake. D L • BAR • $-$$ 202

CHARLEVOIX & CHAIN OF LAKES

231347.2771

porary American food with a focus on local ingredients. D

CENTRAL LAKE/CHARLEVOIX/ EAST JORDAN/ELLSWORTH

Kalkaska

Roast & Toast Hip coffeehouse with daily house-made soups, bread, bakery items and salads. On-site coffee roasting. A consistent MyNorth Red Hot Best winner. BLD

Stafford’s Bay View Inn Gracious 1886 inn with big veranda, glorious gardens and bay view, American fare. Sun. brunch. BLD • $$-$$$ 2011 WOODLAND, PETOSKEY,

NE W Terrain Restaurant Honest yet ambitious contem-

RD., ALDEN, 231.331.6777

Gaylord

ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9800

HARBOR SPRINGS. 231.242.4655

• BAR • $ 121 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.533.6622

Wild Onion American fare, patio dining and Alden Mill House seasonings at all the tables. BLD • $ 9069 HELENA

Boyne City East Jordan

Elk Rapids

• BAR • $$-$$$ 230 N US 31, PELLSTON, 231.539.7100

Small Batch Quiche, inventive breakfast and lunch sandwiches in a creative atmosphere. BL • $ 117 W MAIN ST.,

Short’s Brewing Co. Sip Joe Short’s fabulous brew, and dine from the deli menu in a renovated hardware store. LD

VILLAGE, 231.535.2999

Petoskey Charlevoix

Nancy Kelly's Restaurant Fine dining with a flair. Chefprepared gourmet food. Crafted cocktails and a full bar. LD

PETOSKEY, 231. 347.9291

BLD • BAR 1 SHANTY CREEK RD. (M-88), BELLAIRE, 800.678.4111

Walloon Lake Inn Exceptional culinary skills play out in a newly renovated, century-old pine-paneled lakeside lodge. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 4178 WEST ST., WALLOON LAKE

Mackinaw City

HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.4546

• $ 309 E. LAKE STREET, PETOSKEY, 231.347.7767

Shanty Creek Resort Lakeview—Innovative regional cuisine at Shanty Creek Resort with a view of Lake Bellaire. Breakfast, lunch & dinner. The River Bistro— Breakfast buffet, sandwiches, pizzas and 45 regional beers on tap; Arnie’s at the Summit—Breakfast, Lunch, (springfall) Ivan’s Mountainside Gril—Schuss Village-Pub food.

• $$ 12899 CHERRY AVE., RAPID CITY, 231.322.4100

Palette Bistro Little Traverse Bay views with casual upscale dining, outdoor seating and evolving seasonal menu. Wine bar, weekend brunch and popular happy hour. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 321 BAY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3321 The Paper Station Fresh, relaxed and inventive foods including five signature s’mores. BLD • $ 145 E. MAIN ST.,

Pour Public House Charcuterie, gourmet sandwiches, salads, soups, bruschetta. LD • BAR • $-$$ 422 E MITCHELL

BOYNE CITY, 231.582.0049

Torch Riviera Pasta, seafood, steaks, ribs, pizza. D • BAR

$$ 6352 N. LAKESHORE DR., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.2148

Pierson’s Grille & Spirits Ribs, whitefish, pizza, burgers and other staples of life. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 130 STATE ST.,

Red Mesa Grill Colorful decor and creative Latin American cuisine with Costa Rican and Argentinean influences punctuate this lively spot. LD • BAR • $$ 117 WATER ST.,

BOYNE FALLS. 844.732.6875

The Blue Pelican A vintage 1924 inn, home to a genteel front porch, Carolina-style pulled pork, steaks, seafood and a blend of down South and Up North hospitality. D • BAR • $$ 2535 M-88, CENTRAL LAKE, 231.544.2583

The French Quarter New Orleans Casual and relaxed setting offering bistro fare on Round Lake. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 100 MICHIGAN AVE., CHARLEVOIX, 231.758.3801

East Park Tavern French-influenced American cuisine featuring prime rib, John Cross Whitefish and specialty cocktails at the Quay Restaurant and Terrace Bar in Charlevoix.

LD • BAR • $$–$$$ 307 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7450

Esperance Gourmets will adore dishes prepared with dazzling technique in this specialty food and wine shop. D

Café Santé Beside Lake Charlevoix featuring bistro classics. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 1 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY,

• $-$$$ 12853 U.S. 31 N., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.9300

Dockside Burgers, beer and sunsets on Torch Lake. LD • BAR • $-$$ 6340 OLD TORCH LAKE DR., BELLAIRE,

MAIN ST., ELLSWORTH, 231.588.2000

231.582.8800

231.377.7777

Great Lakes Whitefish & Chips Deep-fried whitefish.

LD • BAR • $$ 427 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.4374

Friske Orchards Cafe Cheerful roadside restaurant features farm-fresh breakfasts, homemade soups, salads, sandwiches, a bakery. BL • $ 10743 U.S. 31 S., ATWOOD, 231.599.2604

The Muffin Tin Brain-bendingly good muffins, scones and lunch, too. BL • $ 9047 HELENA RD., ALDEN, 231.331.6808 Pelican's Nest Gourmet burgers, smoked ribs, sandwiches, salads homemade desserts. D • BAR $-$$ 5085 SHANTY CREEK RD, BELLAIRE, 231.533.9000

The Strand at Somerset Pointe Fresh fish and locally sourced ingredients. Steak, chicken and pasta also featured. Enjoy a breathtaking view of Sommerset Pointe Marina and Lake Charlevoix while you dine. Covered and open patio dining. Arrive by car or boat! Hours vary seasonally. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 00970 MARINA DR., BOYNE CITY, 231.592.7080

The Front Porch Sit elbow-to-elbow with neighbors for fellowship and affordable home-cooked food. BL • $ 9235

Grey Gables Inn Graceful, intimate Victorian across from the harbor. D • BAR • $–$$$ 308 BELVEDERE, CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.9261

Jordan Inn Victorian B&B with terrific eggs Benedict and crêpestyle pancakes, fresh lunches and European-style dinners by reservation. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 288 MAIN ST., EAST JORDAN, 231.536.9906

Kelsey B’s Lakeside Food & Spirits Dine on burgers, steaks and fish and soak up the Lake Charlevoix views.

LD • BAR • $-$$ 230 FERRY AVE., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2960

The Landing Restaurant Come by boat or car and watch the Ironton Ferry motor back and forth while you eat at this newly renovated lakeside fun-food spot on Lake Charlevoix. Beach fries, New England lobster roll, great burgers, bbq and other fab summertime food. LD • BAR • $-$$ 10231 FERRY RD., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2960

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN '19

95

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WINE · DE LI · GROC E RY

restaurant guide | dining

Rowe Inn A unique fresh and from-scratch dining experience that has stood the test of time. D • BAR •$$$ 6303 E.

Shirley’s Café An ultra-friendly, all-homemade oasis. BLD

Scovie’s Gourmet Deli & Bake Shop Fresh salads, sandwiches, soups and baked goods star here. Dinner is bistrostyle comfort food. LD • $-$$ 111 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX,

Trout Town Café Homey fishermen spot with sautéed rainbow trout and eggs, pecan-crusted French toast for breakfast; braised brisket and home-roasted turkey for dinner. BLD • $ 306 ELM ST., KALKASKA, 231.258.2701

JORDAN RD., ELLSWORTH, 231.588.7351

231.237.7827

• $ 528 S. WILLIAMS ST., MANCELONA, 231.587.1210

Stafford’s Weathervane Local fish, seafood and regional cuisine in a Hobbit-style Earl Young stone structure with massive fireplace overlooking the Pine River Channel.

Mackinaw City

LD • BAR • $$ 106 PINE RIVER LN., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.4311

Terry’s Place Small white-tablecloth eatery with a high tin ceiling. Try the perch or filet mignon. Mouthwatering.

Petoskey

D • BAR • $$ 112 ANTRIM ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2799

Villager Pub Terry Left’s downstairs digs feature a ’50s atmosphere, whitefish, Mexican, ribs, sandwiches, pizza.

LD • BAR • $-$$ 427 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.6925

ELK RAPIDS/GAYLORD/KALKASKA/MANCELONA Chef Charles’ Culinary Institute of America-trained Chef Charles Egeler makes gourmet pizzas, Ligurian-style takeout pesto, salads and sandwiches in a classic pizzeria. LD • $ 147 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.8901

Cellar 152 Wine and Gourmet Market Gourmet meals to take out or eat in and wine bar on the Elk River.

BLD • BAR • $-$$ 152 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.9000

The Local All-American breakfast and lunch done better.

BL • $$ 145 AMES ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.498.2190

Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen Every day’s Mardi Gras at this festive spot, where Cajun, Creole, seafood, sandwiches and big brunches accompany lively sounds of Zydeco, jazz and blues. LD • BAR • $-$$ 617 AMES, ELK RAPIDS,

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Gaylord

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Cadillac

LEELANAU COUNTY 45th Parallel Cafe Artsy spot with creative breakfast and lunch. BL • $-$$ 102 S. BROADWAY, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2233 Art’s Tavern Burgers, whitefish, steaks, Mexican and pizza. Smelt year-round at this legendary watering hole. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 6487 W. WESTERN AVE., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.3754

231.264.0530

Barb’s Bakery House-baked goods famous for cinnamon twists, doughnuts, croissants and more. $ 112 N. MILL ST.,

Siren Hall Sup on classics such as short ribs, steak frites, fresh-off-the-plane fruits de mer and homey sides like risotto “tots” and bleu cheese green beans. LD • BAR • $-$$$

Blu Exquisite regional cuisine from chef Randy Chamberlain in an intimate setting on Sleeping Bear Bay.

NORTHPORT, 231.386.5851

151 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231. 264.6062

D • BAR • $$$$ LAKE ST., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.2530

Bennethum’s Northern Inn Fresh eclectic cuisine and updated regional favorites in a cozy Northwoods setting.

Creative kids menu, Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 3917

The Bluebird A mainstay for locals and boaters since 1927. Specialties: cinnamon rolls, whitefish, seafood, steak, pasta, creative ethnic feasts during the off-season.

Sun. brunch. LD • BAR $$ 102 E. RIVER ST., LELAND, 231.256.9081 Big Cat Brewing Company Formerly the Cedar Rustic Inn, serves the same great comfort food including pot roast, perch and Southern-fried chicken, but now with house-brewed beer. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 8699 S. GOOD HARBOR

SOUTH OLD 27, GAYLORD, 989.732.9288

Michaywé Inn the Woods Casual, Up Northy, with a lake view, steaks and seafood. LD • BAR • $–$$ 1535 OPAL LAKE RD., MICHAYWÉ, 989.939.8800

La Señorita Mexican cantina with fajitas, jumbo margaritas. LD • BAR • $ 737 W. MAIN, GAYLORD, 989.732.1771 Otsego Club American and international menu, nice wine list in a log lodge overlooking the Sturgeon River Valley.

The Duck Blind Grille—Casual evening dining. D • BAR • $$ 696 E. MAIN ST., GAYLORD, 989.732.5181

Tap Room 32 Twenty handles of Michigan craft beers and a menu of modern brew-friendly vittles like truffle fries and Korean beef tacos. D • $$ 141 NORTH COURT AVE., GAYLORD, 989.748.8552

The Old Depot 1900s train depot features homestyle burgers, steaks, chops, prime rib, seafood, pies and pastries. BLD • $$ 10826 M-32 E., JOHANNESBURG, 989.732.3115 Sugar Bowl Restaurant In the heart of the Alpine Village, this vintage 1919 eatery serves whitefish, prime rib and Greek specialties. BLD • BAR • $$-$$$ 216 W. MAIN ST., GAYLORD, 989.732.5524

Treetops Sylvan Resort Three restaurants: Legends, Hunters Grille, & Sports Bar. Steak, burgers, ribs, pasta, signature pizza, chicken, fish and gluten-free selections.

Featuring a selection of 100 Michigan craft beer, wines, fabulous martinis and the dynamic Cookies, our Treetops house band. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ WILKINSON RD., GAYLORD, 800.444.6711

B & B Express Signature burgers on the menu and great breakfasts. BLD • $-$$ 203 S CEDAR ST., KALKASKA, 231.258.9778

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Boone Dock’s Log lodge with roomy deck, shrimp, burgers, steaks. LD • BAR • $$ 5858 MANITOU, GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.6444

Boone’s Prime Time Pub Seafood, steaks and burgers in a cozy cabin with a fireplace and a lively, friendly wait staff. LD • BAR • $$ 102 ST. JOSEPH, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.6688 N E W Broomstack Kitchen & Taphouse Great burgers, hand-cut fries, Sicilian-style pizza. Curling in the winter.

LD • BAR • $ 172 W BURDICKVILLE RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.8869

The Cove Seafood, steaks and great bar food (don’t miss the Chubby Mary—a bloody Mary with a smoked chub in it!) served up in the heart of Fishtown on the Leland River. Sunny days, catch a seat at Rick’s Café on the deck LD • BAR • $$-$$$ LELAND, 231.256.9834 Dick’s Pour House Homemade soups and pies, sandwiches, pizza. LD • BAR • $-$$ 103 W. PHILIP ST., LAKE LEELANAU, 231.256.9912

Red Hot

Best

2018 Winner MyNorth is the home of Traverse Magazine

Earth Wind & Fryer Fresh, funky street food from this food truck. Duck burgers anyone? LD • $ 112 W NAGONABA

ST., NORTHPORT, 231.432.0268

Lake Michigan Salmon & Trout Fishing aboard 36’ Tiara Yacht No Fish No Fee Guarantee

N E W Fig's Sandwiches, breakfasts, salads homemade

with local ingredients. Great selection of vegetarian dishes. BL • $$ 202 WEST MAIN STREET, LAKE LEELANAU, 231.256.7720

Inland Panfish Charters aboard our 23’ center console also available 3rd Generation Captain - 30 minutes from TC Frankfort , MI | 231.383.1500 www.tinybubblescharters.com

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- LOCAL - ORGANIC - GLUTEN-FREE - VEGAN - FAMILY OWNED - CUSTOMER FOCUSED -

- NEWLY EXPANDED - GROCERY & MORE -

SERVING OUR COMMUNITY

FOR 40 YEARS

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Breakfast, Brunch & Lunch Classics unquely prepared with elegant simplicity Closed Tuesdays February — April Week Days 7 am - 4 pm Saturday - Sunday 9 am - 3 pm Located in the Mercato in The Village of The Grand Traverse Commons Reservations Accepted 231.252.4648

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restaurant guide | dining 2019 Red Hot Best

Garage Bar & Grill BBQ & bar eats are served at this pared-down watering hole with garage doors & a dogfriendly patio. LD • BAR • $-$$ 108 S WAUKAZOO ST., NORTH-

MART

RS

EN

CE

BLE TA

MCFARLANE, MAPLE CITY/BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3900

U

Funistrada Casual trattoria features Italian specialties such as veal saltimbocca and lasagna. D • BAR • $$ 4566

EA

Y

LD • BAR • $ 7144 N. M-22, BETWEEN NORTHPORT AND LELAND, 231.386.9923

’S LEELANA HA

TEN

Fischer’s Happy Hour Tavern Rustic family-style roadhouse known for burgers, soups and raspberry pie in season.

OF EXCE

LL

European Style Cafe

Featuring breakfast, lunch, prix fixe, dinner, espresso bar, and serving beer, wine and cocktails.

Dinner Prix Fixe Special 3 Courses • 5:00-6:00 pm • $24

PORT, 231.386. 5511

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Open Every Day Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner.

Hearth & Vine Café at Black Star Farms Farm-to-table menu that pairs with Black Star Farm’s wine, cider and craft cocktails. LD • BAR • $-$$ 10844 E REVOLD RD., SUTTONS

Nominated Top Ten Best Farmstand in Northern Michigan!

BAY, 231.944.1297

The Homestead Nonna’s Restaurant—Classically inspired, contemporary Italian cuisine. D • BAR $$-$$$ Beppi’s Sports Bar—Hand-tossed pizzas, paninis and salads. D • BAR • $-$$

W E L O O K F O R WA R D T O SEEING YOU THIS SUMMER

The Red House in Downtown Suttons Bay 231.271.2344 • marthasleelanautable.com

301 West Mile (M-72)

1 WOODRIDGE RD. (OFF M-22), GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.5000

Hang-On Express Thai and Chinese classics. LD • $ 316 ST. JOSEPH, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.0202

Joe’s Friendly Tavern A rustic, comfy spot with bar food: whitefish, burgers, sandwiches, chili and soup. BLD • BAR • $$ 11015 FRONT ST., EMPIRE, 231.326.5506

scalawagswhitefish.com

Knot Just a Bar Fish and burgers in a modern, beachy pub perched over pretty Omena Bay. LD • BAR •

www.9beanrows.com BAK E RY & DE L I

$-$$ 5019 BAY SHORE DR. (M-22), OMENA, 231.386.7393

La Bécasse Part the heavy velvet curtains and find a Provençal paradise. D • BAR • $$-$$$ C-675 & C-616, BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3944

Leland Lodge Bogeys—BLD • BAR • $-$$ 565 PEARL ST., LELAND, 231.256.9848

Little Traverse Inn Old World gastro pub highlights the food and beer of the British Isles. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 149 E.

FRESH FISH EVERYDAY! WHITEFISH

FAR M STE AD

PERCH

HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY. 231. 228.2560

WALLEYE

The Manor on Glen Lake Fine family dining in a renovated lakeside inn. LD • BAR • $-$$ 7345 W. GLENMERE

CHOWDER

Market 22 Deli, pizza, bakery. Eat in or take out. BLD •

Located across from the Park Place in Traverse City

RD., GLEN LAKE AT THE NARROWS, 231.334.0150

BAR • $ 497 E HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6422

Martha’s Leelanau Table A European-style cafe with an emphasis on regional cuisine made from scratch, including some gluten free dishes and pastries. BLD • BAR • $-$$$

FAR M E R S M AR K E T S

www.scalawagsTC.com

413 N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2344

North Country Grill & Pub The Boone family keeps the classics (whitefish, prime rib, and yellow belly perch) while flirting with fondue, fried pickles, Phillys and Cubans. LD •

ADD SOME SPICE TO YOUR LIFE

BAR • $$ 420 ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.5000

The Mitten Brewing Co. Small craft brewery featuring appetizers, indoor lounge, covered patio and beer garden.

LD • BAR • $ 112 W. NAGANOBA ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.1101

Pegtown Station Pizza, subs, burgers, sandwiches, salads and breakfast—all done well. BL • $ 8654 S MAPLE CITY RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6692

Streetside Grille Seafood, burgers, pasta, flatbread pizzas, great beer list and more. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 111 N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4199

The Tribune Ice Cream and Eatery House-cured lox, breakfast burritos, meatloaf sammies and burgers share the menu at this fun Northport eat spot. BLD • $ 110 E. NAGONABA ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.1055

Trish’s Dishes Crepes, omelets, salads, gourmet sandwiches. BLD • $ 407 E MAIN ST., LELAND, 231.994.2288 Tucker’s of Northport Bistro-style casual fine dining featuring fresh, local whitefish, Great Lakes perch, cioppino, house-smoked ribs and wings, hand-pattied Angus burgers and carefully selected wine list. Meet. Dine. Bowl.

LD • BAR • $-$$ 116 WAUKAZOO, NORTHPORT, 231.386.1061

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restaurant guide | dining

Western Avenue Grill Birch-bark-rustic motif with canoes hung from the rafters. Pasta, seafood, whitefish and burgers. LD • BAR • $$ 6680 WESTERN AVE. (M-109), GLEN ARBOR, 231. 334.3362

DOWNTOWN TRAVERSE CITY Alliance James Beard-nominee Pete Peterson teams with up-and-coming chef James Bloomfield at this Warehouse District bistro. LD • BAR • $-$$ 144 HALL ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5545

Mackinaw City

Amical Friendly French bistro with a bay view, fireplace and street patio. Prix fixe menu from 4–5:30pm. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 229 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.8888

Bay Bread Company Bakery 43 artisanal breads, sandwiches, soups and salads. BLD • $ 601 RANDOLPH ST., TRA-

Petoskey

VERSE CITY, 231. 922.8022 Old Mission

Frankfort

Gaylord

Acme Traverse City Interlochen

Manistee

Cadillac

GRAND TRAVERSE AREA INTERLOCHEN/LAKE ANN Bradley’s Pub & Grille Burgers, ribs, bluegill, brisket, trout and so much more. LD BAR • $-$$ 10586 US31, INTERLOCHEN, 231.275.6401

Bud’s A reprise of the original Bud’s gas/bait shop is a cool hangout for locals, vacationers and Interlochen students. Try the cappuccinos and monkey bread, burgers and original sandwiches. BLD • $ 3061 M-137, INTERLOCHEN,

Blue Tractor Cook Shop An Old Town favorite with from-scratch farmer food. Be sure to check out The Shed next door where you'll find a beer garden and a food truck where sliders are served up hot. The comfy burger bar boasts a list of over 25 Michigan-crafted beers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 423 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 922.9515

Brew Café and Bar Hip spot for a drink and light meal before or after performances at the Opera House. BLD • $ 108 E. FRONT STREET, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.2739

Bubba’s Happening Front Street spot with battered mahi and chips, burgers, chimis, salads, tacos. BLD • BAR • $ 428 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.995.0570

Dayclub Fine dining experience for the whole family at the West Bay Beach Holiday Inn Resort. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 615 FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.3700

The Cooks’ House A sweet little dollhouse of a spot, home to sustainable local cuisine with a French sensibility.

LD • $$-$$$ 115 WELLINGTON ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8700

We’re honored to be the best.

Cousin Jenny’s Cornish Pasties Homemade pasties. BLD

231.276.9090

• $ 129 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7821

You said it, so we don’t have to!

Dilbert’s Soups, Sandwiches, omelets and other home cooking served in a homey atmosphere. BLD • $ 11303 U.S.

The Dish Cafe Eclectic menu with creative salads, quesadillas, enormous wraps, sandwiches and smoothies. LD • $

myhonorbank.com

31, INTERLOCHEN, 231.275.3005

108 S. UNION, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.2233

Hofbrau Lively cedar-paneled former general store serves locals and Interlochen performers. Steak, seafood, bluegill and barbecue. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 2784 M-137,

Firefly A dazzling small-plate menu, sushi, steaks and burgs at a sophisticated hotspot on the river. BL • $-$$ 310

INTERLOCHEN, 231.276.6979

S. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.1310

Maddy’s Tavern Burgers, pizza, pasta, sandwiches. Friday night specials. LD • BAR • $-$$ 9205 U.S. 31, INTERLOCHEN,

Folgarelli’s Market & Wine Shop Lunch & dinner (eat here or to go), gourmet groceries, wines imported & local, vast selection of cured meats and cheese. LD • BAR • $-$$

231.276.6244

424 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7651

OLD MISSION PENINSULA

The Franklin Hip new downtown eatery featuring flatbread, salads, lamb and beef burgers, bistro dinners. Fabulous wine, craft beer, hard cider and perry. LD • BAR • $-$$

Bad Dog Deli Eat shrimp pizza, pepperoni pesto rolls or flavorful Boar’s Head sandwiches in this peninsula outpost. L • $ 14091 CENTER RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.9364 Boathouse Restaurant Casually elegant spot with great steaks, seafood, large local wine selection. Sunday brunch. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 14039 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4030

Jolly Pumpkin Wood-fired steaks, fresh fish, and artisan pizzas along with fresh ales crafted on site. LD • BAR • $$ 13512 OLD PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4333

Mission Table Farm-to-table restaurant serving seasonal, locally sourced fare and craft cocktails. D THURSDAY, FRIDAY & SATURDAY 5PM–9PM • BAR • $-$$ 13512 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4222

Old Mission Tavern Prime rib, fresh fish, pastas and ethnic specials—this lushly landscaped spot hosts two fine-art galleries: Bella Galleria and sculptor/owner Verna Bartnick’s studio. LD • BAR • $$ 17015 CENTER RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.7280

Peninsula Grill Roadhouse with cozy fireplace, wings, burgs, and regional Northern fare. LD • BAR • $$ 14091 CENTER

160 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2727

Frenchies Famous Three tables and carryout, offers superb hot sandwiches and espresso drinks. LD • $ 619 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1228

Fustini's Fresh Take Healthy, tasty salads, soups and sandwiches to go with vegan and gluten-free choices. LD • $ 141 FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1145

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Georgina’s Asian and Latin taqueria. LD • $ 236 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.1555

N E W The Good Bowl Fresh, authentic Vietnamese eat-

ery. Donates $1 for every bowl to the charity of your choice.

LD • BAR $-$$ 328 E FRONT ST.,TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.2662

The Green House Café Sandwiches, soups and salads.

BL • $ 115 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.7687

Grand Traverse Pie Co. Exceptional cream and fruit pies, coffee, baked goods, pot pies, chicken salad and quiche. BL •

$ 525 W. FRONT ST. AND 101 N. PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.7437

Harvest In brand new expanded location, local foods hip spot. LD • $ 136 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.486.6037

RD. TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.7200

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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restaurant guide | dining

Little Bohemia Famous Olive Burger featured on Food Network. Established 1932, family tavern in The West End District, full menu, free off street parking, seasonal outdoor seating. LD 540 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.6925 Little Fleet A bar/food truck compound that hosts the likes of Pigs Eatin’ Ribs (all things pork), Roaming Harvest (pork tacos) Anchor Station (burgers and more). LD • BAR

Slate Prime cuts of beef and the freshest seafood with inspired toppings and sides. D • BAR • $$$ 250 E. FRONT ST.,

Thai Café Eat in or take out authentic Thai cuisine in a cafe atmosphere. LD • $-$$ 1219 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1303

Sorellina Authentic Italian pasta, zuppa and insalate. LD

TRAVERSE CITY–SOUTH Agave Mexican Grill Authentic, freshly made Mex. LD •

Mackinaw Brewing Co. Nautical-themed brewpub offers great house-smoked meats, several styles of beers, tasty char-burgers, fish and ribs. LD • BAR • $$ 161 E. FRONT ST.,

State Street Grille Downtown Traverse City sports bar featuring 11 big screens, bang bang shrimp, steaks, lobster mac and cheese, local beer, wine and spirits. LD • $-$$ 221 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.4263

Sugar 2 Salt Traverse City's newest brunch spot (otherwise known as S2S) shakes up the same ol' same ol' with dishes like duck (yes, for breakfast) and everything served up with what is in season. B • $-$$ 1371 GRAY DR., SUITE 300,

231.946.3991

• $ 448 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.1116

TRAVERSE CITY, 933.1100

Mama Lu’s Modern Day Taco Shop Fresh tortillas with a mix of traditional and modern ingredients at this hip, fun taqueria and bar. LD • BAR • $$ 149 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2793

Milk & Honey Salads, sandwiches and homemade ice cream all made with local ingredients that are natural, GMO-free and organic when possible. Gluten-free options available. LD • BAR • $ 250 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1036

Minerva’s In the historic Park Place Hotel. Italian-American menu, elaborate Sun. brunch. BLD • BAR • $$ 300 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5093

Mode’s Bum Steer Classic steakhouse serves tender, well-aged charbroiled Black Angus steaks, seafood, ribs, soup, sandwiches. LD • BAR • $$ 125 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9832

North Peak Brewing Co. Wood-fired pizzas, seafood, sandwiches, microbrewed beer and a jam-packed bar scene. LD • BAR • $$ 400 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7325

Omelette Shoppe Vast array of omelets, homemade breads and pastries, soup and sandwiches. BLD • $ 124 CASS, 231.946.0912, AND 1209 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0590

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

• BAR • $$-$$$ 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.409.8382

Taproot Cider House Brick oven pizza, great salads, inventive entrees paired with hard cider, microbrews, wine and spirits. LD • BAR • $-$$ 300 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.943.2500

The Towne Plaza Eclectic American cuisine focusing on local ingredients with extensive outdoor seating and a casual atmosphere. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 202 E. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.090

Warehouse Kitchen & Cork Seasonally inspired farm-tofork restaurant inside Hotel Indigo. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 263 WEST GRANDVIEW PARKWAY, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0500

White on Rice Sushi & ramen served carry out or dine in. Text or call ahead for orders. LD • $-$$ 510 W 14TH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.633.7423

BAR • $-$$ 851 S. GARFIELD, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.4408

Boone’s Long Lake Inn Steaks, prime rib, seafood, daily specials. D • BAR • $$ 7208 SECOR RD., TRAVERSE CITY, Centre Street Café Fine and flavorful sammies. Saturday brunch 10:30am-6pm. Mon.-Fri. Open 10am-3pm. Closed Sunday. BL • $ 1125 CENTRE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5872 The Filling Station Microbrewery Thin-crusted woodfired flatbreads and flavorful house brews revitalize the Depot. LD • BAR • $-$$ 642 RAILROAD PLACE, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8168

Hunan Authentic Chinese eatery that’s hidden behind a Taco Bell. L (TUE-SUN) D (FRI-SUN) • $ 1425 S. AIRPORT RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.1388

The Kitchen Salads, wraps, tacos. All to go. BL & EARLY D • $ 1254 WOODMERE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.TOGO

Mulligan’s Pub and Grill Stuffed burgers, extravagant salads and sammies, ribs and whitefish at this year-round establishment at the Crown Golf Course. LD • BAR • $-$$ 2430 W. CROWN DR., AT THE CROWN GOLF CLUB, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.2975

TRAVERSE CITY–EAST

Oryana’s Lake Street Café Classic Detroit-style coney and grill with mouthwatering Greek treats like crunchy falafel, rich spanakopita, gyros and lemon soup. BLD • $-$$

Cottage Café Comfortable food, coffee and tea press pots, friendly service, reasonable prices in a unique Traverse City experience. BLD • $-$$ 472 MUNSON, TRAVERSE

Right Brain Brewery Traverse City’s beloved brew pub now at a new location. BAR • $ 225 E. 16 ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

CITY, 231.947.9261

260 E. TENTH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.0191

231.944.1239

Don’s Drive In A ’50s-style diner and drive-in with booths, burgers, fries, shakes, nostalgic jukebox. LD • $

Sauce at Incredible Mo’s Artisan pizza, pasta, salad in a kid-friendly atmosphere. LD •BAR • $-$$ 1355 SILVER LAKE

Grand Traverse Resort and Spa Aerie—16th-floor panorama of East Bay and regional fine dining. Music on weekends. D • BAR • $$-$$$ Sweetwater American Bistro—BLD

Willie’s Rear Full breakfasts, sandwiches, burgers. Counter and table seating. BL • $ 1315 W. S. AIRPORT RD., TRAVERSE

es (breakfast waffle sandwich!) and other grab-and-go foods. Indoor and outdoor seating. BL • $ 113 S. PARK ST.,

La Señorita Bustling Mexican cantina with fajitas, jumbo margaritas. LD • BAR • $ 2455 N. US 31 S., TRAVERSE CITY,

TRAVERSE CITY–WEST

Patisserie Amie French bakery and bistro. BAR • LD •

McGee’s No. 72 Gourmet burgers, fries, pizza and other sophisticated bar food. D • BAR • $$ 4341 M72 E., TRAVERSE

LD • BAR • $$ 13671 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.7079

Paesano’s Charming spot with cozy booths puts pizza pie on a pedestal. LD • $ 447 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.5740

Pangea’s Pizza Pub Craft pies, creative toppings. LD • BAR $-$$ 135 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.9800

2030 U.S. 31 N., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.1860

NEW Park Street Cafe Fresh-made gourmet sandwich-

• $$ U.S. 31 N., ACME, 231.534.6000

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.239.8150

231.947.8820

$-$$$ 237 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.9645

Poppycock’s Fresh seafood, pasta, unique sandwiches and salads, including vegetarian specialties and awardwinning desserts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128. E. FRONT ST. TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7632

Rare Bird Brewery The likes of pork belly sliders, oysters on the half shell and great burgers served up alongside great beer. LD • BAR • $$ 229 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2053

Red Ginger Wrap yourself in fresh-sleek surroundings and the spicy-exotic flavors of Asia. D • BAR • $-$$$ 237 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1733

Scalawags Whitefish and Chips A new location for ultrafresh Great Lakes fish fry. LD • $ 303 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8700

Seven Monks Taproom Pair any of 46 beers on tap (including European Trappist ales) with your burger, thin crust gourmet pizza, salad or lively sides like sweet potato frites and Scotch egg. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.4807

NEW Smokehouse Mac Shack Inventive mac n’ cheese

to go. LD • $ 439 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5001 Sparks BBQ Smoking up the real thing—pulled pork and chicken, brisket, ribs and jerky. Don’t miss the BBQ Sundae.

CITY, 231.421.8800

Mr. C’s Pub and Grill Fine pub food with excellent wines and craft beers—paired with menu entrees for your convenience. LD • BAR • $$ M-72 E., WILLIAMSBURG, 231.267.3300 Randy’s Diner Soups, salads, sandwiches, all-you-caneat cod. BLD • $ 1103 S. GARFIELD, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0789 Red Mesa Grill Colorful spot with a fireplace, flights of tequila and Latin American cuisine. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1544 US31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.2773

Reflect Bistro and Lounge at Cambria Suites Hotel Breakfast, dinner and Happy Hour 4-7 p.m. daily. BD • BAR • $-$$$ 255 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.778.9000

Smoke and Porter Public House A new American smokehouse where farm-to-table and whole beast butchery meet the fire pits. Serving microbrews, wine, and liquor. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 1752 US31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5020 The Soup Cup, a MicroSouperie Homemade soups, grilled cheese, Belgian fries. L • $ 718 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.7687

CITY, 231.421.5506

Apache Trout Grill Rough-hewn eatery affords a great bay view along with ribs, steak, pasta and salad.

Harrington’s By the Bay Sunday brunch, seafood, steaks, burgers, sandwiches—with a bay view. BLD • BAR

• $-$$$ 13890 SOUTH WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.9393

Nada’s Gourmet Deli & Mediterranean Cuisine Authentic hummus, tabbouleh, chicken shawarma, falafel, the best baklava in Traverse City. LD • $ 542 W FRONT ST, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.6779

PepeNero From-scratch southern Italian cuisine. LD • BAR • $$ 700 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1960 Red Spire Brunch House Classic American fare: breakfast and lunch all day. BL • $$ 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., ST. 30, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.4648

Sleder’s Family Tavern Bar fare and entertainment under the original tin ceiling in one of Michigan’s oldest saloons.

Kiss Randolph the moose before you leave. LD • BAR • $-$$ 717 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9213

The Silver Swan Ethnic fare and killer desserts. LD • $ 13692 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0203

Turtle Creek Casino & Hotel Bourbons 72—Seafood, prime rib and more. D • BAR • $-$$$ 7741 M-72, WILLIAMSBURG,

231.534.8888

CROSSINGS BLVD, GRAWN, 231.944.1355

Spanglish Authentic, homemade Mexican fare with occasional American accents. BLD • $ 1333 YELLOW DR., TRAVERSE CITY. 231.943.1453

LD • $-$$ 201 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.633.7800

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local table | dining Tastes of Black Star Farms Matterhorn Grill Dinner featuring Leelanau Cheese Company raclette and wine samples. D • BAR • $$$ 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR. SUITE 35 (GRAND

Leave it to Megan Gilger, co-founder with her husband, Mike, of the uber-popular lifestyle-blog The Fresh Exchange, to serve us up a recipe that is not just seasonal, it is spot-on month specific. June-fresh rhubarb and radishes are spicy foils to the luxurious anise taste of late-spring fennel in this exuberant riff on traditional slaw. Spoon it on fish tacos or serve with your favorite barbecue. —E.E.

TRAVERSE COMMONS), TRAVERSE CITY. 231.941.1349

Trattoria Stella Hip locally sourced fare with an Italian accent. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1200 W. ELEVENTH, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.8989

The Underground Cheesecake Co. Housemade soups, sandwiches and a huge array of incredibly delish cheesecakes. L • $ 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.4418 West End Tavern Craft cocktails, wood-roasted chicken and more elevated pub fare served up beside West Bay. LD • BAR • $$ 12719 SOUTH WEST BAYSHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2922

Mackinaw City

Petoskey

Gaylord

Frankfort Beulah Benzonia Onekama Manistee

Traverse City

Cadillac

BENZIE, MANISTEE, CADILLAC BENZONIA/BEULAH/HONOR/THOMPSONVILLE The Cherry Hut Homemade cherry pies, jams, jellies, red-and-white-clad servers and American-style food. LD • $-$$ 211 N. MICHIGAN AVE. (US 31), BEULAH, 231.882.4431

Cold Creek Inn Perch, planked whitefish, homemade pizza, burgers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 185 S.BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.882.5531

Crystal Café American café-style breakfast and lunch. BL

JUNE SLAW

• $ 1681 BENZIE HWY. BENZONIA, 231.882.9565

Crystal Mountain Resort Thistle Pub & Grille—Woodpaneled eatery, continental and Scottish specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$$ Wild Tomato Restaurant & Bar—Family Favorites. BLD • BAR • $-$$ M-115, THOMPSONVILLE, 231.946.3585

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

OR 231.378.2000

Geno’s Sports Bar and Grill Burgers, broasted chicken, pizza, soups, salads. LD • BAR • $ 14848 THOMPSON AVE.,

SLAW 1 fennel bulb with fronds included K small red onion 2-3 stalks of rhubarb 1 bunch of mixed radishes 1 cup fresh mint

THOMPSONVILLE, 231.378.2554

Hungry Tummy Restaurant Full breakfasts (chickenfried steak, eggs and gravy ... ), pizza, broasted chicken and more. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 226 S. BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.882.5103

L’chayim Delicatessen NY-style deli with sandwiches and bagels. BL • $ 274 S. BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.882.5221 The Manitou Whitefish, perch, duck with cherry sauce, ribs, steaks, seafood. Nine miles north of Frankfort on M-22. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 4349 NORTH SCENIC HWY., HONOR,

N cup chives

DRESSING N cup olive oil N cup rice vinegar

(or any light-colored vinegar) 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes 2 teaspoons lemon juice 2 tablespoon honey

Salt and pepper to taste

231.882.4761

Papa J’s Pizzeria & Diner Sparkling diner serving homemade dishes and fine pizza pie. Weekend buffets and everyday pizza lunch buffet. BLD • $ 10583 MAIN ST., HONOR, Platte River Inn Classic dining in a casual atmosphere.

Steaks, Italian, Mexican. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 10921 MAIN ST., HONOR, 231.227.1200

The Roadhouse Fresh Mex with a cool cantina atmosphere. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1058 MICHIGAN AVE., (US 31), BENZONIA, 231.882.9631

PHOTO BY MAE STIER

231.325.7070

Using a mandolin, shave the fennel bulb, red onion, and rhubarb stalks into a bowl. Matchstick the radishes. Place in a bowl.

Put the dressing ingredients in a container that can be sealed, and shake vigorously to mix well.

Pour half the dressing on the salad and toss in the mixing bowl. When ready to serve place the slaw into a serving bowl, chop the mint and chives and sprinkle in. Add the remaining dressing and toss.

Ursa Major Bistro Breakfast, burgers sandwiches. BLD • $-$$ 245 S BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4250

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restaurant guide | dining Red Hot

CADILLAC After 26 Casual eatery dedicated to employing adults with developmental disabilities and cognitive impairment. BLD • $ 127 W. CASS ST., CADILLAC, 231.468.3526, AFTER26PROJECT.ORG

Blue Heron Cafe Dazzling upscale sandwiches, soups and salads as well as from-scratch pastries. BL • $ 304 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.5461

Cadillac Grill This lodge–style, car-themed eatery’s cuisine runs from bar food to fine dining. LD • BAR • $$ 7839 E.

46 K RD., OVERLOOKING THE ELDORADO GOLF COURSE, CADILLAC, 231.779.3663

Clam Lake Beer Company 40 craft beers on tap, woodfired pizzas, grilled angus burgers. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 106 MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC, 231.775.6150

Coyote Crossing Resort Full bar & restaurant with Northwoods décor set on beautiful property in the Manistee National Forest. American fare. Live music. Open six days a week year round. LD • BAR • $$ 8593 S. 13 RD., CADILLAC, 231.862.3212

Evergreen Resort Terrace Room restaurant—Stellar water and woods views plus American fare, Sun. brunch and sandwiches. BLD • BAR • $$ Curly’s Up North Bar & Grill—Casual bar food in a snug knotty-pine setting. Live entertainment. LD • BAR • $$ 7880 MACKINAW TRAIL, CADILLAC, 231.775.9947

Hermann’s European Cafe Austrian-born master pastry chef Hermann Suhs creates international cuisine, seasonal specialties and divine desserts in an alpenhaus-style dining room. LD • BAR • $$ 214 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.9563 Herraduras Mexican Bar & Grill Authentic dishes like flautas, enchiladas and carnitas, plus shrimp chimis and steaks. LD • BAR • $ 1700 S. MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC, 231.775.4575 Lakeside Charlie’s A fine deck on Lake Mitchell. The hunt club–style restaurant features burgers, aged beef, fish and wild game. LD • BAR • $$ 301 S. LAKE MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.5332

Maggie’s Tavern Chili, burgers, steaks, wet burritos and kid selections are served up in a lively 19th-century setting.

LD • BAR • $ 523 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.1810

FRANKFORT/ELBERTA/ONEKAMA/ MANISTEE/ARCADIA Arcadia Bluffs Golf Club & Restaurant Fresh fish, aged beef, Mediterranean rack of lamb and an emphasis on local ingredients all served with a spectacular view of Lake Michigan. BLD • $-$$$ 14710 NORTHWOOD HWY., ARCADIA, 231.889.3001

Bayview Grille Burgers, steaks, homemade beignets, liege waffles, wings, mussels and crabcakes at this casual eatery. BLD • $-$$ 727 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.8050, BAYVIEWGRILLE.COM

Birch & Maple Scratch cuisine prepared with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients. Friendly folks and fab craft cocktails. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 727 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0399

Conundrum Cafe Light lunch fare, Hawaiian shave ice and alcohol available to purchase. BL • $-$$ 603 FRANKFORT AVE, ELBERTA, 231.352.8150

Crescent Bakery Artisanal breads, pies, cheesecakes, and hand- decorated cookies. BL • $ 404 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.4611

Dinghy’s Legendary for smoked meats, including ribs, pulled pork, brisket, chicken, turkey legs, chicken wings and fish fry. LD • BAR • $$ 415 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.4702 The Fusion Asian delights like fiery curries and lettuce wraps (plus creative cocktails) served in a serene atmosphere on Frankfort’s main drag. BLD • $–$$ 300 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.4114

The Glenwood Casual dining, almond-battered shrimp and bleu cheese filet mignon, homemade desserts.

Open for dinner at 5 p.m. D • BAR • $–$$$ 4604 MAIN ST., ONEKAMA, 231.889.3734

Hotel Frankfort Fine dining served up at this in-town inn.

BLD • $-$$$ 231 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.8090

House of Flavors 50s diner featuring family style breakfasts, lunch and dinner. And, yes, a full ice cream menu.

BLD • $-$$ 284 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.887.4600

L’chayim Delicatessen NY-style deli with sandwiches and bagels. BL • $-$$ 325 MAIN STREET, FRANKFORT, 231.352.5220 Lighthouse Café Robust breakfasts, soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, steak, perch, liver and onions. BLD • $–$$ 735 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA. 231.352. 5273

A TRADITION SINCE 1965

HOME OF

Mayfair Tavern Burgers, steaks, fish. LD • BAR $-$$ 515

FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9136

Papano’s Pizza Traditional pizza pie. D • $–$$ 334 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.6700

Red Hot

Best

Rico’s East Lake’s welcoming, true North watering hole with fresh smelt, burgs, and smoky adobo beef spring rolls. LD

2018 Winner

River Street Station Cheers-esque, smoky burgerand-ribs joint with a summer deck that affords an up-close view of the freighter action along the Manistee River. BLD

OFFERING A FULL BAR, PRIVATE EVENTS & OUTDOOR DINING

• BAR • $-$$ 900 CABERFAE HWY. (M-55), MANISTEE, 231.723.3721

• BAR • $-$$ 350 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.723.8411

N E W Rocks Landing Eclectic menu combines local ingredi-

ents with ethnic influences. Intimate dining, feet from Crystal Lake. D • BAR $$ 1157 CRYSTAL DR., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0158 Shay’s M22 Steaks, chops, whitefish. Emphasis on fresh seasonal ingredients. Great wine and beer list. LD • BAR • $-$$ 4472 CRESCENT BEACH RD., ONEKAMA, 231.889.3121

Stormcloud Brewing Brewing Belgian-inspired ales to pair with inventive, smart bistro fare. LD • BAR • $-$$ 303 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.0118

Timbers Restaurant Family-owned restaurant with steaks, prime-rib pasta , whitefish, craft beer, regional wines gourmet pizza, specialty salads. LD • BAR • $-$$ 5535

Blue Waters Café Breakfast, brunch, burgers, Mexican, sandwiches, seafood. BLD • BAR • $ 155 8TH ST., MANISTEE,

BAR • $ 99 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.398.9174

Boathouse Grill Fresh seafood, steaks, burgers and sandwiches, nightly specials. LD • BAR • $-$$ 440 RIVER ST.,

231.352.5450, MANISTEE/ARCADIA/ONEKAMA

MANISTEE, 231.723.2300

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FRANKFORT, 231.352.6053

M-115, CADILLAC, 231.775.6751, FRANKFORT/ELBERTA

231.723.4501

2019 Winner

Coho Locally sourced cuisine and a spacious patio overlooking Betsie Bay. Fantastic Happy Hour, fine wines, spirits and Michigan beers. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 320 MAIN ST.,

Blue Fish Kitchen & Bar New American cuisine, traditional fare, vegetarian and vegan. LD • BAR $-$$$ 312 RIVER ST., MANISTEE. 231.887.4188

Best

T.J.’s Pub Take a step down from the sloped sidewalk for panini, mex and pizza below the stately Ramsdell Inn. LD • Villa Marine Friday fish special. Saturday prime rib.

American cooking. LD • $-$$ 228 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, Yellow Dog Café Fabulous coffee, sandwiches, baked goods. LD • $ 4850 MAIN ST, ONEKAMA, 231.508.5008

Bungalow Inn This former rustic cabin offers steak, ribs and fish-fry specials, perch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1100 28TH ST.,

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www.interlochengolf.com - (231) 275-7311 Just seven miles west of Traverse City 10586 US-31, Interlochen

“LOCAL TICKETS ONE PLACE

”

5/9 PETOSKEY UNCORKED!

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MANISTEE, 231.723.8000

The Cabbage Shed Suds, and superb eats like seared scallops, rack of lamb and Ritz-crusted walleye. D • $-$$ 198 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9843

FIND MORE NORTHERN MICHIGAN RESTAURANTS! Go to MyNorth.com/Restaurants MYNORTHTICKETS.COM // 800.836.0717

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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107

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Brewery Tasting Room

12 Taps

Outdoor beer garden 366 PARKVIEW LANE

Downtown Pub

16 Taps

Two Blocks From Lake Michigan 303 MAIN STREET

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Now in Stores FRANKFORT, MICHIGAN

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• OPEN 7 DAYS FOR LUNCH & DINNER • ••OPEN FOR LUNCH DINNER OPEN 77 DAYS DAYS FOR LUNCH &&DINNER • COVERED OUTDOOR PATIO & BAR • • ••COVERED OUTDOOR PATIO•&&BAR BAR• • COVERED OUTDOOR PATIO • LIVE ENTERTAINMENT ••• LIVE ENTERTAINMENT LIVE ENTERTAINMENT FAMILY FRIENDLY • •• •• FAMILY FRIENDLY•• FAMILY FRIENDLY TheFillingStationMicrobrewery.com TheFillingStationMicrobrewery.com TheFillingStationMicrobrewery.com 642 Railroad Place, Traverse City 642 Railroad Railroad Traverse 642 Place, TraverseCity City (231) Place, 946-8168 (231) 946-8168 (231) 946-8168

wine | drinks

New Releases Leelanau Peninsula

Bookended by cold wet weather, the 2018 harvest season tested the mettle of Leelanau County vignerons. Sensitive thin-skinned varietals like pinot noir took a serious beating, but last year’s white wines promise to do their part on the dinner table with zippy acidity that should make for healthy evolution in the cellar. While we wait for those wines to finish integration, however, there’s still a raft of exemplary wines from the uncommonly ripe and abundant 2017 vintage.

White wines are textural and aromatically supercharged while the reds have a richness and intensity that’s well matched to barbecue season. Read on as we sip our way through some of Leelanau County’s best bottlings for summer 2019.

AMORITAS

MAWBY

PINOT BLANC 2018 Amoritas’ pinot blanc debutante promises flashy peach and banana notes over bright, taut texture.

BLANC BRUT NV Rolling out a bold new rebrand this season, Mawby is still percolating the North’s best bubbles. This bottle-fermented beauty throws off golden apple, preserved lemon and biscuity yeast aromas.

BIGLITTLE TREEHOUSE 2017 Long lees contact and a nap in premium French oak imparts curvaceousness and savory undertones to the ghost of soft red fruit in the Laing brothers’ white pinot noir.

PHOTO BY ANDY WAKEMAN

BLACK STAR FARMS

ROVE ESTATE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017 A rising star of the local oeno-scene, Rove’s sauvignon blanc shows off a citrusy soul of grapefruit and lime that’s perfect for dockside imbibing.

ARCTUROS GAMAY NOIR 2017 The native grape of Beaujolais thrives in our sandy soils and this inaugural release from Black Star Farms is lit with bramble fruit and black pepper.

TWO K FARMS

BLUSTONE VINEYARDS

WILLOW VINEYARD

PINOT NOIR ROSÉ 2018 Mouthwatering acids and inviting aromas of early season strawberry pop off in the newest pink pinot from Blustone.

CHARDONNAY 2017 Chardonnay especially benefited from 2017’s ideal growing season and this barrel-aged bottling from Willow showcases classic melon, apple and almond character.

LEFT FOOT CHARLEY (TRAVERSE CITY) BLAUFRANKISCH 2017 Nobody rocks Blaufrankisch better than Left Foot Charley’s Brian Ulbrich. His 2017 bottling of Benzie and OMP vineyards is spicy blackberry sexiness and precise definition in every sip.

RIESLING 2017 Veteran Leelanau winemaker Adam Satchwell shows off his riesling skills with stone fruit and sweet citrus wrapped in ripe acids.

Traverse food and drinks editor Tim Tebeau writes from Petoskey. dining@traversemagazine.com.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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camping | outdoors

DUTCH OVEN ENCHILADAS MAKES 6 ENCHILADAS FILLING 2 tablespoons oil 1 large sweet potato, diced 1 red bell pepper, cut into strips ½ red onion, sliced 4 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon cumin 2 teaspoons salt 1 cup cooked black beans ENCHILADAS

More oil for Dutch oven 6 flour tortillas 1 can enchilada sauce 2 cups cheddar cheese

Lime wedges

Cilantro

CAMPFIRE COOKING Set up a tent and stoke a fire for the simplest of summer pleasures—cooking under the open sky.

TEXT AND PHOTO BY ANDREW VANDRIE

Sandwiching the solstice, the languid weeks of June are filled with the most daylight of the entire year. Take advantage of these extended hours; pack your tent, a sturdy Dutch oven and head into the woods.

Northern Michigan is home to numerous state park campgrounds—some with amenities like concession stores and showers—but the adventurous at heart seek out rustic state forest campgrounds. Each state forest campground sits on a river or lake and has vault toilets and potable water from hand pumps. Find a complete list at Michigan.gov/dnr. Be sure to have a Recreation Passport and pay the necessary fees if camping within a Michigan State Park. For those venturing into the unknown (i.e. state forests), fill out and conspicuously post a camp registration card. Regulations and permits can be found at Michigan.gov/dnr.

After you pitch your tent, grab a stack of logs for a fire and unload that Dutch oven. Nearly as versatile as it is indestructible, this hunk of cast iron can be utilized for a variety of culinary delights. I’ve found enchiladas are an easy and satisfying camp meal, and always make for happy campers. While nearly any recipe will convert to over-the-coals cooking, I sourced mine from freshoffthegrid.com and tossed in some fried sweet potato as my own touch.

Andrew VanDrie writes from Traverse City. vandrian@umich.edu.

In a skillet, over a low fire, add oil and sauté the sweet potatoes until soft. Add peppers, onion, garlic, cumin and salt. Sauté until just tender. Remove from heat and mix with black beans. After letting the fire burn down to hot coals, lightly oil the Dutch oven. Fill three flour tortillas with the veggie and bean mixture, roll and place with seam down on the bottom of the oven. Coat the tortillas with half of the enchilada sauce and half of the shredded cheese. Fill and stack the next row of enchiladas perpendicular/log cabin style, add remaining sauce and cheese. Cover and place the oven in the coals for approximately 10 minutes or until cheese is melted. Garnish each serving with lime and cilantro. Pairs well with a cold beer, pine smoke and a few friends close by.

PRO TIP: Some pre-camp prep to sauté the onions, bell peppers, garlic and sweet potato goes a long way, but can be done on site.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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love of the water

Blessing of the Fleet PHOTO COURTESY OF NATE GRAHAM

Every June, the Harbor Springs Area Historical Society hosts a colorful, festive aquatic parade to honor Harbor Springs’ rich maritime history and to bless the community’s watercraft for a safe boating season. Vessels of all shapes and sizes participate, including paddleboards, kayaks and canoes. The event kicks off on June 26 with Utopia, a 77’ staysail schooner, pulling up to the Harbor Springs city dock (with complimentary public tours June 26 and 27).

Says Kristyn Balog, Executive Director of the Historical Society: “Little Traverse Bay citizens have depended on the bay—historically and presently—for agriculture, potable water, transportation, trapping and fishing purposes, along with ceremonial and cultural use. This event is meant to inspire more individuals toward Great Lakes preservation, stewardship and passion.”

All watercraft are welcome to join the procession at 6 p.m. on June 27. This year, the Little Traverse Bay Bands of Odawa Indians leads the Blessing out in the harbor in a Jiimaan (canoe).

Participants are encouraged to register with the Historical Society to receive important radio channel and course information prior to the parade. HARBORSPRINGSHISTORY.ORG

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