the AUTUMN 2015
GUIDE A GUIDE TO BRITAIN FROM BRITAIN’S BEST GUIDES
MAXINE’S MANCHESTER ACTOR MAXINE PEAKE THE BLOODY HISTORY OF MEDICINE • LONDON’S LINKS WITH THE USA • THE STORY OF SCIENCE IN CAMBRIDGE • LEGENDS, LIES AND LORE
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Contents 4
News A church full of clowns; Santa on the run; a Wonderland anniversary; Liverpool’s ‘Harry Potter’
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Interview Actor Maxine Peake tells us how a unique Manchester library changed her life
14 Legends, Lies and Lore
Philippa Owen, Chair to the British Guild of Tourist Guides
Fact and fiction from British history
A WARM WELCOME TO ‘THE GUIDE’...
16 From Superstition to Science From pigeon droppings to penicillin, Mark Zakian uncovers the history of medicine
26 Tour de Force Two Blue Badge guides tell us about their tours: London’s links with the USA and the story of science in Cambridge
34 My Favourite…
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Editor: Marc Zakian E: marczakian@blueyonder.co.uk
Design and print:
Editorial Assistance: Mark King
W: www.mypec.co.uk
Publisher: British Guild of Tourist Guides ©2015
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This magazine is produced by the British Guild of Tourist Guides – the national association for Blue Badge Guides (the highest guiding qualification in Britain.)
Email: theguide@blue-badge.org.uk • www.britainsbestguides.org
ENGLAND
LONDON
WALES
NORTHERN IRELAND
SCOTLAND
GREEN BADGE
ISSN: 2053-0439
Front cover photo: Jon Gorrigan
Blue Badge Guides on libraries, cemeteries and chapels
Welcome to another edition of The Guide. As well as being an entertaining read, it is an opportunity to find out about the work of Blue Badge guides whose secrets and stories help unlock the history of our great country. We recently changed our name to the British Guild of Tourist Guides. This new name reflects the fact that we have over 1,000 members working right across the country; from London to Liverpool and from Cardiff to Caithness. Though we are the British Guild of Tourist Guides, many of our guides are not British. In this issue Boston-born London Blue Badge guide, Steve Fallon entertainingly uncovers places with strong connections to the United States. Steve has written several guide books to London and he brings his journalistic eye to the connections between Britain and America. London’s St Paul’s Cathedral maintains its links to the American community with an annual Thanksgiving service in November. It is also home to a plaque that I always show visitors. It commemorates Billy Fiske, the US Olympic bobsleigh champion who falsified his papers, enlisted as a Canadian and died in the Battle of Britain 10 days after joining up. His memorial reads: ‘An American citizen who died that England might live’. Rosie Zanders’ story about science in Cambridge unlocks a unique history. As an Oxford (History) graduate myself, I am keen to know why Cambridge has become pre-eminent in worldchanging scientific discoveries. While I was an undergraduate, I am ashamed to say that I took no interest in Oxford’s Pitt Rivers or History of Science museums. Now I am fascinated by the extraordinary flourishing of science in the 17th century (Newton, Wren, Hooke, Boyle etc) and want to go to Cambridge to discover more about this scientific renaissance. Scientific research has changed the world of medicine. In this issue Marc Zakian traces the history of medical practice in Britain, charting its progress from superstition to science. In our main interview we speak to actress Maxine Peake who tells us of her passion for the history of Manchester and her connections with a unique library collection in the city. So whether you are interested in medicine, science or the arts in any part of Britain, I trust that these stories will encourage you to take a tour with a Blue Badge guide.
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NEWS History, Culture and Events
Catherine Cartwright, Blue Badge Guide
BLUE BADGE TOURIST GUIDES Blue Badge Tourist Guides are the official, professional tourist guides of the United Kingdom – recognised by the local tourist bodies and VisitBritain. The Blue Badge is the UK’s highest guiding qualification, awarded only after extensive training and thorough examination. There are over 1000 Blue Badge Guides in England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland – each region has its own badge. We guide in all the UK’s major tourist attractions, as well as its cities and countryside.
In 2014 Guild guides worked with over 1.5 million UK visitors The Blue Badge is the qualification of excellence in heritage guiding. The British Guild of Tourist Guides is the national association of Britain’s Blue Badge guides. Since its foundation in 1950, the Guild has dedicated itself to raising and maintaining the highest professional standards. Our guides work in the UK’s museums, galleries, churches and lead walking, cycling and driver-guided tours throughout the country. Our members work in over 30 different languages. If it can be guided, we will guide it.
To find out more or to book: +44 207 403 1115 guild@blue-badge.org.uk www.britainsbestguides.org
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RED NOSE SUNDAY Every year, clowns gather for a service at east London’s Holy Trinity Church in Dalston. The service, which takes place on the first Sunday in February, is in memory of Joseph Grimaldi – the most popular entertainer of the early 1800s and the first British clown. Grimaldi created the familiar white-faced makeup used by nearly all modern clowns. The event attracts hundreds of performers from all over the world who
attend in full clown costume. The public is welcome at the service that mixes prayers with pratfalls and slapstick. The clowns perform for everyone at the end of the memorial. This year’s service takes place on Sunday 7 February 2016 at 3.00pm. Arrive early as the press photographers come out in force and take up a large section of the church.
Manchester United Foundation Santa Run at Old Trafford
SANTA CAUSE
Thousands of Santa Clauses will be running through parks and streets across the UK this December in a series of charity fun runs. The season starts on November 29 in the Lake District at Windermere’s Jingle Bell Jog, with Santas, elves, reindeer and fairies circling the lake. Birmingham offers both a run and – for the less energetic – a Santa stroll along the city canals on December 5. On the same day in London, 2000 Father Christmases will assemble in Battersea Park for the annual 6k ‘Red & White’ bearded charge, raising money for disabilitysnowsport.org.uk On December 6, urban Santas will be running from City Hall around the Tower of
Former Mancheste r Utd player, Denis Irwin
London and the Thames. There are medals up for grabs for the winners and the entry fee includes your own Santa suit. Info from 209events.com Football fans can join Manchester United’s charity Santa run on Sunday December 13. The race around Old Trafford stadium will be started by United legend, Denis Irwin www.mufoundation.org/santarun There are over 100 charity Santa runs around the country, for more information about these runs and to find a local dash visit santadash.co.uk
St George’s Hall, Liverpool
Mersey Beasts
2015 marks the 150th anniversary of the publication of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. The British Library is celebrating the occasion with an exhibition that investigates the way Alice has captured the public imagination. Lewis Carroll’s children’s fantasy has been adapted, appropriated, re-imagined and reillustrated many times since it was first published in 1865. The book continues to inspire writers, illustrators and film-makers. The exhibition features Carroll’s original manuscript with hand-drawn illustrations, as well as stunning editions by Mervyn Peake, Ralph Steadman, Leonard Weisgard, Arthur Rackham, Salvador Dali and others. The exhibition opens on 20 November and runs until 31 January 2016. There will also be a Wonderland pop-up shop in the British Library Entrance Hall. For an Alice in Wonderland Tour in Oxford, London and other locations visit: www.britainsbestguides.org
The title page of Alice's Adventures in Wonderland illustrated by Charles Robinson (1907) © The British Library Board
Alice books into British Library
from around the UK
The Wonderland postage stamp case designed by Lewis Carroll (1889-1890)
Dubbed the ‘new Harry Potter film’, the JK Rowling book Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them is currently being made into a movie. The story recounts the adventures of writer Newt Scamander in New York’s secret community of witches and wizards. Filming is taking place in the UK, with Liverpool’s buildings such as the grand, neo-classical St George’s Hall standing in for 1920s New York. Other scenes are being
filmed at Warner Bros. studios in Leavesden, Hertfordshire. JK Rowling has written the screenplay herself and the film stars British Oscar winner, Eddie Redmayne as Newt Scamander, a magizoologist who arrives in New York on his journey to find magical creatures. The first film in the Fantastic Beasts trilogy is due out in 2016. For a Harry Potter tour in Liverpool or across the UK visit: www.britainsbestguides.org
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Interview: Maxine Peake
Actor Maxine Peake tells Sophie Campbell how a unique local history library changed her life
www.britainsbestguides.org
MANCHESTER’S MARVELLOUS MAXINE
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When the Conservatives won the general election last May, the actor Maxine Peake drowned her sorrows not at the pub, but at the Working Class Movement Library (WCML) in Salford.“We all went for a cuppa and I felt as if we were at a funeral,” she says, “but we talked it through and I came out feeling so much better. We are all under the banner of the Left, but it’s not about ramming politics down your throat or making you sing the Red Flag. It’s truly educational.” The WCML began as the private collection of two lifelong Communist Party members, Ruth and Eddie Frow. During the 1950s it became a magnet for researchers and in the 1980s the council rehoused the collection in a magnificent Victorian building in Salford. The Library – which holds a unique record of three hundred years of Manchester’s working people’s history – depends on volunteers. It is always struggling for funds, so support from famous local actors and celebrities is welcome. Peake, widely considered to be one
of the most compelling actors of her generation, was born in a little town near Bolton. When her parents split and her mother remarried, 15-year-old Maxine moved to Salford to live with her beloved grandfather Jim. “In my late teens I joined the Salford branch of the Communist Party and went to meetings at the Library,” she said while talking to me from the set of a Comic Relief shoot in Plymouth. “Ruth and Eddie were then still in attendance. They knew my grandfather, who was also a member of the Party, and he was a huge influence on me and my politics.” She remembers an amazing group of people, like Henry Suss (a Jewish Mancunian who campaigned tirelessly on the Spanish Civil War and slum housing).“It was fascinating and progressive, but by the time I knew them, they were all elderly. I was in the Party for about three years, then I went to London and got very self-absorbed, as most actors do!” Her grandfather advised her not to get involved.“He knew I was committed to drama by then. He said
‘politics is so time consuming, Maxine, and if you’ve got ambitions for acting, it’s all or nothing’.’’ Peake joined the local youth theatre, then worked with a couple of amateur theatre companies in Bolton, only leaving when she finally got into RADA. But rather than settling in London, in 2009 she moved back to her home city with her art director partner Pawlo Wintoniuk. A few years later she was asked to have her photograph taken somewhere that meant something to her. Wintoniuk said ‘what about the Library?’ So she rang them and they were delighted. Peake is unusual for an actor with such a successful film, TV and stage career in that she has stuck to her northern roots and retains her Bolton accent. She is an associate artist at Manchester Royal Exchange and in 2014 participated in a fund-raising day of Radical Readings & Salford Stories at the Library with Sheila Hancock and fellow Lancastrian Christopher Eccleston. She’s funny and selfdeprecating in conversation, studiously
Peake is unusual for an actor with such a successful film, TV and stage career in that she has stuck to her northern roots
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Interview: Maxine Peake Royal Exchange Theatre, Manchester
www.britainsbestguides.org
The Frows
Peterloo Scarf
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underplaying her success. Looking at early episodes of Dinnerladies on YouTube, the young Peake, as cast by Victoria Wood in her first part after drama school (‘5ft 7” and 15 stone: I think that’s why I got the job, because I was large’), is unrecognisable. She lost weight after the doctor warned her of high blood pressure, going on to play Veronica in Shameless, the Moors murderer Myra Hindley, (southern) barrister Martha Costello in Silk and an acclaimed Hamlet at the Royal Exchange. This year she joins a sensational BBC cast as Titania in A Midsummer Night’s Dream. That hasn’t stopped her being interested in all things political. She says she’s picked up more history at the Library than she learned in school. “Peterloo, obviously,’”she says, referring to the 1819 massacre on St Peter’s Fields, Manchester, when an electoral reform demonstration was mown down by sabre-wielding cavalry. “But also the ‘Battle of Bexley Square’ in Salford, when people marched on the Town Hall.” She is fascinated by the 1930s mass trespass movement and its campaign
to gain access to the countryside for ordinary people. Led by the Ramblers’ Association, they took direct action on Kinder Scout and Winter Hill near Peake’s home town. She is also a supporter of the National Clarion Cycle Club, formed in 1895 as a social club for working class cyclists beginning to find their freedom on wheels.“It’s still going,” she says, “one group meets at Pendle where there’s an open Sunday and you can go along for a cup of tea.” Cycling led her, indirectly, to writing. “We both like cycling,” she says,“My boyfriend’s always on eBay looking at wires and cogs and he gave me a biography of Beryl Burton for my birthday.” Burton, who worked on a rhubarb farm in Yorkshire, is the most successful female British cyclist ever, holder of seven world titles, 96 national titles and the 1967 National Time Trials record for men and women. “I went to a producer and said it would be a fantastic idea for a play,” explains Peake.“She said ‘You do it!” I thought ‘Oh no, not another actor who thinks they can write,’ but I decided to try. I rewrote it about three
Maxine Peake’s Beryl at West Yorkshire Playhouse
Samantha Power as Beryl Burton © Keith Pattison and West Yorkshire Playhouse
times. I enjoyed the writing but I didn’t enjoy being in something I’d written. Acting’s hard once you’ve got under the skin of a character that much. But the deal was me being in it.”It became a fine stage and radio play. There are two truly startling things about Maxine Peake. One is that she played rugby league for Wigan Ladies RLFC for three years in her teens (she claims she was so much larger than the other girls on the netball court, she kept knocking players over.) But the really shocking one is that she had her own show-jumper.“It’s true, I did,” she says, starting to laugh, “I once told someone I used to have a horse and he said ‘Oh my god, you’re middle class!’ It was a hand-me-down pony called Smokey. I kept him in the field near our house. He was vicious, like a devil horse. I got quite a few rosettes, you know, third or fourth – probably just for turning up. They’d be going ‘that poor woman on that crazy horse’ but I kept going. That’s the thing you need. It’s not talent; it’s persistence.” Persistence (and talent) has taken Maxine Peake a long way.
Cycling led her, indirectly, to writing. ‘We both like cycling,’ she says, ‘My boyfriend’s always on eBay looking at wires and cogs and he gave me a biography of Beryl Burton for my birthday’ The Working Class Movement Library
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Interview: Maxine Peake
Maxine played an acclaimed Hamlet at the Royal Exchange. This year she joins a sensational BBC cast as Titania in A Midsummer Night’s Dream
Factfile THE WORKING CLASS MOVEMENT LIBRARY 51 The Crescent, Salford (www.wcml.org.uk) is open Monday to Friday and some Saturdays. See website for tours and exhibitions. MAXINE PEAKE will next be seen as a flamehaired newspaper editor in the Comic Relief series provisionally entitled Red Top.
Maxine Peake as Hamlet in Hamlet Photo: Jonathan Keenan
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Sunderland is an ideal place for groups and coach parties who want to explore this vibrant city by the sea. Visitors will be surprised and delighted by its fascinating history, coastal scenery, beautiful green spaces, heritage and cultural attractions and world class events that bring Sunderland to life.
For more information on these attractions and to find out what other things you can see and do in Sunderland visit
www.seeitdoitsunderland.co.uk /seeitdoitsunderland
@SeeitDoitSund
HEDGE FUNDS
King Henry VIII was proud of his beard. In 1535 the king levied tax on his fellow Englishmen’s whiskers – the amount paid increased with the beard-grower’s standing in society – making facial hair a status symbol. The tax was reintroduced by Henry’s daughter Queen Elizabeth I, who felt that any beard with over two weeks’ worth of growth should be taxed.
ar British W ld r o W t s ir During the F ible ink is v in s a n e m spies used se Carrots were not orange until 16th century. The medieval carrot was red or white. They were bred to be orange by Dutch farmers in honour of the popular royal house of Orange.
orange BOOM
LEGE
LIE FACTS AND
A KNIGHT OUT
WITH THE SW
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ASPIRE TO
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heaven
When subjected to an electric current of 50 volts a cat’s tail always points towards the north.
ES,
For 238 years the tallest building in the world was Lincoln Cathedral. The 525 feet tall church spire was completed in 1311 and held the record until it was destroyed by a storm in 1549.
THE FINAL STRAW
AND
In the 1800s London’s taxis were horse-drawn carriages. The 1831 Hackney Carriage Act made it illegal for drivers to feed their horse – except by hand from a bag of hay that they were obliged to carry on board at all times.
Y R O T IS H H IS IT R B M O FR N IO T FIC In 1348, at a Christmas tournament, King Edward III disguised himself as a pheasant, complete with flapping wings and real feathers. He was accompanied by his knights, who were dressed as swans.
WANS
When motor vehicles replaced the carriage, the law remained in place and cabs had to have space for a bale of hay in the boot. The Carriage Act was finally repealed in 1976; this also saw the end of the rule that when a taxi driver needed to pee he could stop a policeman, who would shield him with his cape.
HIGH Steaks
In 1617 James I was journeying from Scotland to London. His court stayed overnight at Lancashire’s Houghton Tower. That evening at a banquet the hungry king drew his sword and commanded the pages to bring him some beef. The servants went down on their knees as they presented the meat and King James said ‘arise, Sir Loin’ – knighting the loin of beef and giving the cut its name. Sadly this story is a Lancashire legend and the word probably comes from the French ‘surloynge’ – ‘sur’, meaning ‘above’ and ‘loynge’ meaning ‘loin’.
© The Graphics Fairy 2007
NDS
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Feature
Marc Zakian looks at the history of medicine in Britain
Images courtesy of © Wellcome Foundation
from
SUPERSTIT to SC
Hippocrates
www.britainsbestguides.org
BLOOD, BANDAGES AND BODIES
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On 2 February 1685 King Charles II woke up feeling unwell. His doctors opened a vein and drew a pint of blood. Witnessing no improvement, they cupped another eight ounces of the sovereign’s blood and forced him to swallow antimony – the toxic metal made Charles vomit. The king was then given a series of enemas. His hair was shaved and his scalp blistered with a hot iron to drive down the bad humours, and pigeon droppings were applied to the soles of his feet to attract the falling humours. Another 10 ounces of blood was drawn and doctors administered forty drops of ooze from ‘the skull of a man that was never buried’. Finally, crushed stones from the intestines of a goat were forced down the royal throat. On 6 February the king died. Charles probably died from a stroke. The doctor’s treatments – which seem to us more like torture – may well have hastened his departure. But the king’s physicians regarded themselves as beyond reproach; they were the leading medics of their time, men of classical learning, whose curative traditions were passed on from the ‘Father of Medicine’ himself: Hippocrates.
Charles probably died from a stroke. The doctor’s treatments – which seem to us more like torture – may well have hastened his departure
Charles II © National Portrait Gallery
ION IENCE
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Bathing and cupping
Feature
A SENSE OF HUMOURS
Plague Doctor
For nearly 2000 years, British medicine was ruled by the ancient Greek principle of the humours. This is a theory that the human body is composed of four elements: blood, yellow bile, black bile and phlegm. The key to health was balancing these factors; imbalance led to sickness and sick people were, literally, dis-eased. So someone with too much ‘blood’ became sanguine, others were phlegmatic, bilious, choleric or jaundiced (from the Latin for yellow). These words have lost their medical meanings but are still used in modern English. Health was restored by draining the excessive humour. The most popular treatment was bleeding; removing blood by cutting a vein, cupping or attaching leeches – treatments that were still used by doctors as late as the 19th century. Other methods included enemas and purges. Patients frequently died in a blitz of blood and vomit.
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MEDIEVAL MEDICINE
The Romans believed that diseases such as cholera and the plague were transmitted through bad airs known as miasma – which eminated from rotting organic matter. This idea gave us the word malaria (literally ‘bad air’ in Italian). The medical profession clung on to this theory until it was finally disproved in the 1850s.
The word ‘medieval’ evokes images of poverty, pestilence, darkness and disease. For most people these misfortunes were constant companions. Some misfortunes, however, were inflicted by medieval physicians. Medicine was tied to ideas that were over 1000 years old and doctors disdained practical cures. A gentleman physician did not touch a person; his job was to talk to patients. His training involved learning Latin, debating philosophy and swishing about in purple robes – not tackling the dirty diseases of daily life. Astrology was at the heart of medicine. Physicians consulted the heavens to calculate the best day to cure a headache (3 April) or treat blindness (11 April) – the planets determined the outcome. The word ‘disaster’ comes from ‘bad star’ in Greek. So when the plague struck England in 1348, medical professors blamed ‘the conjunction of Mars and Jupiter causing great pestilence in the air’. While medics had their heads in the stars, the Black Death scythed its way through England. Some doctors promoted remedies such as shaving a chicken’s backside and strapping it to a plague sore, bloodletting (providing, of course, that the patient’s horoscope was right), eating arsenic (highly poisonous) and drinking ten-year old treacle. In desperation, towns hired plague doctors. These were second-rate physicians or con-men, recognisable by their ‘protective suit’: a heavy overcoat, mask with glass-eyes, and a nose cone or beak stuffed with herbs and flowers to filter the miasma or bad air ‘carrying’ the pestilence. The plague doctors perished alongside the 1.5 million people – nearly half the population of England – who died in the Black Death.
Bleeding
ELF AND SAFETY
Queen Anne Touching for the Kings Evil
Trepanning
All images © Wellcome Foundation
Medieval man was profoundly superstitious. The world of bad spirits, divine providence and supernatural beings was as real for him as the ground he walked on. Bald’s Leechbook is a 9th century English medical textbook. It details a cure for ‘elfsickness’, a disease inflicted by invisible sprites who would shoot tiny arrows into their victims causing them to waste away or freeze. Evil elves were blamed for all kinds of maladies, including hiccoughs and the elf-stroke – a paralytic seizure, the origin of the word stroke. Christianity offered salvation from these bad spirits. Healing shrines and pilgrimages flourished and saints and martyrs were invoked for health. Each organ and complaint has its own saint; St. Vitus for chorea (epilepsy and seizures) and St Anthony for erysipelas (skin disease). One cure for demonic possession was trepanning. This involved drilling into the skull to allow the evil spirits to escape. Prehistoric Britons used flint tools to do this. Some people subjected to trepanning survived, and skulls have been found with bone grown back around the hole. Scrofula was another ailment caused by evil spirits. Medieval people believed that the sovereign – whose body was considered divine – could cure this growth on the neck. The monarch TAKING THE PISS would place their hands During the late Middle Ages on the victim in a ritual urinomancy developed as a known as ‘touching for method for diagnosing diseases. the king’s evil’. The colour, smell and consistency The writer and wit Dr of urine was thought to reveal an Samuel Johnson suffered imbalance of the humours. from scrofula. In 1712 he Diabetes was diagnosed by the received the royal touch frequency that people urinated. from Queen Anne. The The 17th century Dr Willis referred ceremony proved to it as the ‘pissing evil’; he would ineffective and Johnson’s taste patients’ urine to determine growth was removed its composition, noting that the by surgery. urine of diabetics was ‘wonderfully sweet, like sugar or honey’.
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Feature
Dentist Painting
Robert Liston
SHOCK AND GORE
While doctors quacked away at the star charts and Hippocratic humours, the real medical heroes were the surgeons. Looked down on by the gentleman doctors, they were the craftsmen you called on when you needed a tooth pulled, a boil lanced or a broken bone set. In the middle ages, the man with the sharpest knife and finest cutting skills was the barber. He could cut off your hair and your warts at one visit. In 1540, the London Company of Barber Surgeons was formed. Their charter specified that no surgeon could cut hair or shave and that no barber could practice surgery, but both could extract teeth. Barbers received higher pay than surgeons. Surgery was brutal. An evening out at a public operating theatre became ghoulish entertainment, where audiences thrilled and chilled to the blood and screams. With no anaesthetic, operations were so gory that relatives and bystanders often fainted. Even the surgeon’s assistants – whose job it was to hold the patient down – sometimes fled the operating theatre. The celebrity bone cutter in early 1800s London was Robert Liston. Known as ‘the fastest knife in the West End’, he could remove a limb in 28 seconds and then hold the severed
The traditional red and white pole is one of the last links between barbers’ and surgeons. It represents the blood and bandages associated with barber’s historic job of pulling teeth and cutting limbs. Another link is the use of the title ‘Mr’ rather than ‘Dr’ by British surgeons.
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Byrne Skeleton in glass case, Crystal Gallery
ANY-BODY THERE
In 1783, John Hunter set up his anatomy school and exhibition in London’s Leicester Square. The Scot studied anatomy alongside his brother, performing dissections and analysing the progress of disease. Hunter also worked as a dental doctor, transplanting teeth from poor people to wealthy clients. Hunter’s London exhibition included a collection of live animals. When they died their skeletons were turned into anatomical specimens. He collected and displayed some 14,000 exhibits, many of them human. One exhibit Hunter was determined to have was the skeleton
of the giant Charles Byrne. The 7’ 7” Irishman had travelled to England, where his height turned him into a celebrity. When Byrne’s health waned, Hunter asked him to donate his body. The giant refused, but after Byrne’s death Hunter bribed the undertaker to hand over the body. Today the skeleton, with much of Hunter’s surviving collection, is in the Hunterian Museum at the Royal College of Surgeons in London. Hunter developed several innovative surgical procedures; he also advanced the science of anatomy and is regarded as ‘the father of scientific surgery’. Before 1832, the only legally available bodies for anatomical study in Britain were criminals condemned to death and dissection. Medical schools could never secure the 500 corpses they needed each year, so anatomists like Hunter made deals in the dark underworld of London’s grave robbers. The resurectionists’ trade was so lucrative that body snatchers would run the risk of fines and imprisonment. To protect their relatives and friends, the bereaved would watch over a grave after burial. Cemeteries built watch towers, tombs were encircled with iron bars called mortsafes and bodies interred in iron coffins. In the 1820s, Burke and Hare brought a new dimension to the trade by murdering people and selling their victims’ fresh corpses for medical dissection. Their macabre activities resulted in the 1832 Anatomy Act that permitted unclaimed bodies and those donated by relatives to be used for the study of anatomy. This law brought an end to body snatching.
Nicholas Culpeper © British Museum
FLOWER POWER
Plants have been part of medicine since the Stone Age. Archaeologists have found evidence of Neolithic surgical amputations and have speculated that they must have used pain-killing plants such as the hallucinogenic Datura (Thorn Apple) during the operation, and cleaned wounds using antiseptic herbs like sage. During the Middle Ages monasteries provided hospitals for the sick. The monks cultivated cures in their physic gardens: coriander was used to reduce a fever, stomach pains were treated with wormwood and mint, lung problems were medicated with liquorice and comfrey, and horehound syrups were prescribed for colds and coughs. In 1649 Nicholas Culpeper published a book of natural medicine. He wrote
16TH CENTURY CURES • Retention of Urine – three large lice inserted into the penis. • Asthma – the lungs of a fox washed in wine, herb and liquorice. Grave robbing
John Hunter
Images © Wellcome Foundation & The Royal College of Surgeons
stump up in the air to show the crowd. One patient, who needed a bladder stone removed, ran from Liston’s operating table and locked himself in the toilet. His fear was understandable, as the operation involved inserting a rod in the penis and pushing the stone out. Liston dragged him back to the table and operated. In December 1846 he performed the first surgery in Europe using modern anaesthesia. Ether had been pioneered in Boston before Liston brought it to the operating theatre at University College Hospital. The fear of surgery meant that people would live with ailments rather than be cut while conscious. One of Liston’s patients had a tumour on his scrotum so large that he pushed it around in a wheelbarrow. The introduction of ether meant people who had been too frightened to undergo surgery came forward for operations.
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The Complete Herbal in English so it could be read by ordinary people and his cures used local plants that were available to everyone. Culpeper apprenticed as a London apothecary and set up practice among the poor, often charging no fee for his herbal remedies. Apothecaries frequently diagnosed illnesses and prescribed medication, but they charged less money than physicians, infuriating the medical establishment. A colourful figure with strong opinions, Culpeper died at age 38 from tuberculosis compounded by intensive smoking of tobacco, an activity he had promoted as a cure for coughs.
LADIES’ FIRSTS
The 18th century writer, Lady Mary Wortley Montagu suffered from smallpox as a child. She survived, but lost her eyelashes and was scarred for life. When her husband was made ambassador to Turkey, she insisted on travelling with him. The maverick Lady Mary defied contemporary notions of behaviour, disguising herself as a local woman and venturing into the harems and houses of Constantinople. Here she discovered that the women were vaccinating their children against smallpox. Wortley arranged for her son to be inoculated. When she returned to England in 1721 a smallpox epidemic broke out – killing 30% of its victims. Lady Mary convinced several female members of the royal family to be inoculated, but doctors did not want their authority usurped by ‘a few ignorant women’ and
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they denounced her as ‘illiterate’ and ‘unthinking’. Posterity has shown that had the medical establishment not objected to a woman ‘interfering’ in medicine, many lives would have been saved in the 80 year period before Jenner developed the vaccination for smallpox. On a July morning in 1865 a scream rang out around Dr James Barry’s house. For the past month the curtains had been kept drawn in his bedroom on London’s Cavendish Square, and now the Inspector General of Military Hospitals was dead. The charwoman, sent to prepare his corpse, pulled up his nightshirt to uncover a secret the doctor had managed to hide for most of his life: James Barry was actually a woman. Barry was one of the most highly respected surgeons of his day. He had risen from hospital assistant to topranking doctor in the British Army – serving in garrisons from South Africa to Jamaica. But James Barry was actually born Margaret Ann Bulkley. Brought up by a liberal family who believed in women’s rights and education, his family decided that Margaret would train as a doctor. This was a time when women were not permitted to enter university, so in 1809 Margaret assumed her uncle’s name, James Barry, and enrolled in Edinburgh as a medical student. Following graduation he joined the army. By 1845 Barry was principal medical officer in the West Indies. When the Crimean War broke out he demanded to be sent to the front line. Right until the end, Barry had done everything to prevent the secret from
Elizabeth Garrett Anderson
being discovered, even requesting that no post-mortem be carried out on his corpse. But at the last the truth was, literally, uncovered. The Victorian pioneer, Elizabeth Garrett was determined to become a physician. Her requests to study at medical school were denied so she enrolled as a nursing student, attending classes intended for male doctors – but was thrown out after complaints from fellow students. Garrett discovered that the Society of Apothecaries did not specifically forbid women from taking their examinations. In 1865 she passed and gained a
ALL IN VEIN Sir Christopher Wren made pioneering experiments with crude hypodermic needles, performing intravenous injection into dogs in 1656. The device – made with animal bladders (the syringe) and goose quills (the needle) – was used to administer drugs such as opium. These early experiments were generally ineffective and in some cases fatal and injection fell out of favour for two centuries.
Images © National Portrait Gallery
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Lady Mary Wortley Montagu with her son
WALK IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF YOUR ANCESTORS Get closer to the mystery of Stonehenge at our new, state-of-the-art exhibition and visitor centre.
Nr Amesbury, Wiltshire
The English Heritage Trust is a charity, no. 1140351, and a company, no. 07447221, registered in England.
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In 1632 William Harvey was sent to investigate a woman accused of being a witch. He asked whether she had a familiar. She put down a saucer of milk and called to a toad which came out and drank the milk. Hervey killed the toad and dissected it, concluding that it was a perfectly ordinary animal and not supernatural. The woman was angry and upset, but Harvey silenced her by stating that he was the King’s Physician, sent to discover whether she were a witch, and if she were, to have her apprehended.
William Harvey
Edward Jenner
determination paved the way for other females, and in 1876 an act was passed permitting women to enter the medical profession. Florence Nightingale is regarded as the founder of modern nursing. She came to prominence while serving during the Crimean War, where she organised the treatment of wounded soldiers. There was no knowledge of germ theory at that time, but her instinctive understanding of hygiene led to her demanding clean wards and nutritious food for patients. Her innovations reduced the death rate from infections by more than half. In 1860, Nightingale laid the foundation of her profession with the establishment of her nursing school at St Thomas’ Hospital in London.
MEDICAL MARVELS Images © Wellcome Foundation & National Portrait Gallery, London
As science swept away medieval superstition and antiquated ideas, many British doctors were at the forefront of medical advancements.
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WILLIAM HARVEY was the model
Alexander Fleming
certificate enabling her to become a doctor. The society immediately changed its rules to prevent women from joining the profession this way. In 1870, Garrett became visiting physician to the East London Hospital. Still determined to gain a doctor’s degree, she taught herself French and graduated from the University of Paris. The British Medical Register refused to recognise her qualification. In 1872, Garrett founded the New Hospital for Women in London, with an entirely female staff. Renamed after its founder, it is now part of University College Hospital. Garrett’s
Enlightenment physician. At the beginning of his anatomy lectures he would read out his manifesto: the human body can only be understood by observation. In 1628 he published De Motu Cordis. This book contains the first accurate account of the circulation of the blood and action of the heart. Modern medicine would be impossible without this discovery.
EDWARD JENNER was a rural Gloucestershire doctor whose discovery is said to have ‘saved more lives than the work of any other human’. Jenner realised that the relatively harmless cowpox infection milkmaids caught from cattle protected the farm girls from life-threatening smallpox. In 1796, Jenner tested his hypothesis
by inoculating Phipps, the eight year old son of his gardener. He scraped pus from a cowpox on a milkmaid and used it to inoculate the boy, who contracted a mild fever. He later injected Phipps with a small amount of smallpox. No disease followed. He repeated the experiment; again there was no sign of infection. He had developed the medical science of vaccination (from vacca, Latin for cow).
ALEXANDER FLEMING was a research doctor at St Mary’s Hospital Medical School in London. In 1928, while studying influenza, Fleming noticed that mould had developed accidentally on a set of culture dishes used to grow the staphylococcus germ. The mould created a bacteria-free circle around itself. Fleming named the substance penicillin. In the 1940s this research was developed into the first drug that could successfully combat serious infections. Before penicillin, a bee sting that became infected could kill you. The discovery was ranked as the most important of the 20th century and is estimated to have saved some 200 million lives.
Sir Hans Sloane was a British collector, doctor and physician to Queen Anne (the poor woman had 17 children, none survived past the age of 11). Sloane’s collection was bequeathed to the nation to create the British Museum – his medicine cabinet can be seen in the museum. It includes a lizard’s egg, ground mummies’ fingers (a cure for bruises) and rhinoceros horn as an antidote to poison.
Visits THE FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE MUSEUM is located at St Thomas’ Hospital London. Open to the public seven days a week the museum tells the story of the lady with the lamp’, from her Victorian childhood to her experiences in the Crimean, through to her years as an ardent campaigner for health reform. www.florencenightingale.co.uk
WELLCOME COLLECTION – LONDON Displays an unusual mixture of medical artefacts and original artworks exploring ‘ideas about the connections between medicine, life and art’. wellcomecollection.org
HUNTERIAN COLLECTION – LONDON In 1799 the government purchased the collection of John Hunter which is displayed in the Royal College of Surgeons. The museum displays thousands of anatomical specimens, including the skeleton of the ‘Irish giant’ Charles Byrne, and many surgical instruments.www.hunterianmus eum.org
THE THACKRAY MEDICAL MUSEUM – LEEDS Located in a former workhouse built to accommodate 784 paupers, highlights include reproduction Victorian slum streets, surgery before anaesthesia and an interactive children’s gallery looking at how the human body works; as well as the skeleton of Mary Bateman, the ‘Yorkshire Witch’, who was executed for fraud and murder in 1809. www.thackraymedicalmuseum. co.uk
For an expert medical themed tour with a Blue Badge Guide go to www.britainsbestguides.org
Interior of Royal College of Surgeons of Edinburgh
Visits
ROYAL COLLEGE OF SURGEONS OF EDINBURGH was founded in 1505. The collection includes ‘natural and artificial curiosities’ medical instruments, anatomical samples and a digital dissection theatre. The newly renovated Surgeons’ Hall Museums are open to the public. www.museum.rcsed.ac.uk
Royal College of Surgeons of Edinburgh was founded in 1505 25
Tour de force Words: Marc Zakian
American-born Blue Badge Guide Steve Fallon looks at London’s transatlantic links
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FROM BOSTON TO BOW
Growing up in suburban Boston, Steve Fallon was convinced that London was populated by bowler-hatted gentlemen and cockney villains. “I watched a lot of British TV programmes,” he explains. “They all seemed to feature aristocrats or gangsters, so I just assumed all Brits were like that.” Three decades later, Steve came to live in the UK. A career in journalism had taken him to Iron Curtain-era Poland (where the government kept a secret service file on him), Hungary (where he started writing guide books), Hong Kong, rural Essex and, in the year 2000, Bow in east London. “I arrived at a great time,” he says. “The East End was full of energy and when the Olympic Games were announced there was a real excitement about the place.
My partner and I were welcomed into a community that still holds onto its cockney roots.” Steve was commissioned to write the Lonely Planet guide book’s London edition. This led him to become a Blue Badge tourist guide and he started to investigate the connections between his native New England and his new ‘old England’ neighbourhood. “In many ways, the East End is the cradle of the American colonies,” says Steve. “The first 65 Pilgrim Fathers boarded the Mayflower near Rotherhithe in 1620. There is a riverside pub named after the ship, and its captain, Christopher Jones, is buried nearby in St Mary's church. “Another Thames church with American links is All Hallows by the Tower. The country’s 6th president John
Quincy Adams married there in 1797 and his British-born wife Louisa is the only non-American First Lady in the history of the United States. “The religious pioneer, William Penn was baptised at All Hallows in 1644. King Charles II gave Penn’s father land in America that William used to found a Quaker colony called Pennsylvania. Its main city, Philadelphia, became the United States’ first capital. “The symbol of Philadelphia and American independence is the Liberty Bell. It was cast in 1752 in London’s East End at the Whitechapel Bell Foundry. The bell was shipped to America, where it cracked at the first ringing. The foundry is still there – the oldest manufacturing company in Britain. “The church with the strongest emotional ties to the
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Tour de force Dwight Eisenhower
Franklin Roosevelt
“The Roosevelt memorial was funded through subscriptions; the British public were so enthusiastic that all the money was raised in six days” St Paul’s Cathedral
States is St Paul’s Cathedral. Its American Memorial Chapel commemorates the 28,000 soldiers who died on active service while based in Britain during WWII. “I have a personal connection to the chapel via my fatherin-law who served with US Army Airborne in Norfolk. He was bombed four times and saw several friends fly out, never to return. Their names are recorded in the chapel’s book of remembrance. It’s a poignant list of the fallen that moves many of my American clients to tears. “If you study the chapel wood carvings you will see representations of American flora and fauna; birds such as cardinals and American robins, which are much bigger than their British counterparts – supersized, like US cars. “There is a very public reminder of the ‘special relationship’ in the form of the statues of American presidents you see across London – seven at the last count. Grosvenor Square, next to the US embassy, boasts three: Ronald Reagan, Dwight Eisenhower and Franklin Roosevelt. “The Roosevelt memorial was funded through subscriptions; the British public were so enthusiastic that all the money was raised in six days. Roosevelt suffered from polio in childhood and the Grosvenor Square statue depicts his disability. This was heavily downplayed in the States and Americans are surprised by such an honest representation.
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American Memorial Chapel, St Paul’s Cathedral
Roosevelt is also commemorated in Bond Street, where he is shown ‘in conversation’ with Winston Churchill. “George Washington’s statue is in Trafalgar Square. The rebellious Washington said he would ‘never set foot on English soil’ and there is an urban myth that when his statue was erected in the 70s, Virginia soil was placed under the plinth. The British dislike for Washington is illustrated by a story that during the decades after the Revolutionary War, every British embassy placed a portrait of Washington next to the urinal. “London folklore is full of this kind of banter. There is an often repeated myth that when Robert P. McCulloch bought the 19th century London Bridge in the 1960s, he thought he was getting Tower Bridge. McCulloch had a bill of sale and knew exactly what he was buying and, like a ‘typical American’, he made lots of money by rebuilding the bridge as a tourist attraction in Lake Havasu in Arizona. “One of London’s strangest memorials to Americans is on Gloucester Place. It’s a plaque that reads: ‘Benedict Arnold, American patriot resided here’. He was a British spy and turncoat during the revolutionary wars and Americans spit when they hear his name. Apparently the person who attached the plaque to his house is a relative who is trying to salvage Arnold’s reputation. I don’t think it’s working – he has had gruff phone calls from angry Americans. “One of my favourite transatlantic heroes is fellow New Englander, George Peabody, who came to London in the 1830s and set up a bank. He lost all his money in a financial crash, but was bailed out by the Bank of England. But it’s Peabody’s later philanthropic work that is his great legacy: he created the first social housing in Britain, giving £500,000 to establish homes for the ‘deserving poor’. “Peabody was loved in Britain and when he died was given a grand funeral in Westminster Abbey. But it was discovered that he actually wanted to be buried in his home town, so they transported his coffin to New England for reburial – the perfect symbol of how our nations’ histories are inextricably linked.”
“The church with the strongest emotional ties to the States is St Paul’s Cathedral”
For a tour with Steve Fallon visit: www.steveslondon.com For tours exploring your country’s links with London visit: www.britainsbestguides.org
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KINGS, QUEENS, STATESMEN, SOLDIERS, POETS, PRIESTS, HEROES & VILLAINS
WESTMINSTER ABBEY A MUST-SEE LIVING PAGEANT OF BRITISH HISTORY Book now at westminster-abbey.org
A NOBLE AMBITION Blue Badge Guide Rosie Zanders tells us about Cambridge University’s extraordinary achievements in science
For what was once a damp, insignificant and remote fen town on the edge of England, Cambridge is one of the UK’s great overachievers. And there is no area in which the city’s university has achieved more than in the field of science. “There must be something ‘scientific’ in the city’s air,” says Blue Badge guide Rosie Zanders. “Cambridge colleges have produced 91 Nobel Prize winners; more than any other university in Europe – more than the whole of France.” Trinity College boasts an astonishing 32 laureates, but centuries before the Nobel avalanche, it was home to one of the world’s greatest scientists: Sir Isaac Newton. “Newton was born in Lincolnshire on Christmas Day in 1642 – the same year that Galileo died,” explains Rosie. “His widowed mother wanted him to run the family farm, but Newton hated the idea. So, with financial help from his uncle, he went up to Trinity College.
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Tour de force
“There must be something ‘scientific’ in the city’s air, Cambridge colleges have produced 91 Nobel Prize winners”
King’s College, Cambridge
“In 1665, plague closed the university and Newton returned home where – according to legend – he sat under a tree, an apple fell on his head and the theory of gravity was born. “At the front of Trinity College is an apple tree said to be taken from a cutting of the original ‘gravity tree’. The college library has a first edition Newton’s Principia Mathematica; often described as the most important science book ever written, this copy includes the great man’s hand-written notes. In Trinity chapel there is a statue of the scientist holding a prism – Newton also discovered the property of light – and whenever I show this to young kids, they ask me if he did experiments with Toblerone. “During the 17th century superstition and science were inextricably linked. The man who wrote the theory of gravity spent half his time experimenting with alchemy. This was a heresy – and Newton risked being tried and hanged – so he did this work in secret. When the college dug up its garden to put in new cables, they discovered chemicals in the ground believed to originate from Newton’s alchemy experiments. “Newton’s brilliant ideas may have defined the modern world, but ‘scientific’ teaching at Cambridge was stuck in the past. It was based on the study of ancient texts, not experiment and new discovery. In the 1800s one student defied these traditions with a radical new theory that he developed while at Christ’s College. “Charles Darwin failed his medical degree at Edinburgh because he could not stand the sight of blood. So his father sent to him Cambridge to study for the priesthood, but Darwin was more interested in local fenland beetles than the cloistered world of divinity. He befriended a botany
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professor who arranged for him to join HMS Beagle on the five-year voyage that inspired his ideas about evolution – theories that are the foundation of modern life sciences. “Darwin represented the last of the university’s ‘gentleman scholars’ – men from wealthy families for whom science was an all-consuming interest, but not a profession. This changed in 1874 with the opening of the Cavendish Laboratory, the first purpose-built research and teaching laboratory in Britain. “Named after the former Peterhouse college student who discovered hydrogen, the Cavendish belatedly brought proper experimental science to the university. It was designed by James Clerk Maxwell, whose theory of electromagnetic radiation led to the development of radio, TV and radar. “No other building can claim so many world-changing scientific achievements: in 1897 JJ Thomson discovered the electron at the Cavendish, paving the way for electronics and the computer; Ernest Rutherford first split the atom in this building, ushering in the nuclear age; and in 1953 it was where Crick and Watson determined the structure of DNA. “The pair announced the discovery of the double helix in The Eagle, across the road from the Cavendish. The pub has
“In 1665 plague closed the university and Newton returned home where – according to legend – he sat under a tree, an apple fell on his head and the theory of gravity was born” Cavendish Laboratory, Cambridge
a corner dedicated to the duo and sells Eagle DNA beer, brewed in their honour. “Charles Babbage was another Peterhouse graduate. In the 1840s he drew designs for a Difference Engine, the first mechanical computer. The inventor didn’t have money to construct his machine and it wasn’t built until The Science Museum in London made one in 1985. Babbage was an eccentric inventor, who designed aquatic shoes for walking on water – and nearly drowned while testing them – and an aerial postal system using wires and church spires. “Another giant in the history of computing was Alan Turing. He was a student and fellow at King’s College, where he developed the ‘Turing Machine’ – the basis of all modern computing. Scruffy, solitary and shy, Turing would go on to be the key figure in breaking German secret codes during WWII, an achievement that shortened the war by several years. It is to Britain’s shame that after the war he was put on trial for being gay – the conviction leading to his eventual suicide.
“Turing has since been officially pardoned and Hollywood recently paid tribute to him in the film The Imitation Game. This movie came out at the same time as The Theory of Everything, with actor Eddie Redmayne – himself a Cambridge graduate – winning an Oscar for his portrayal of the world’s most famous living scientist: Stephen Hawking. “Hawking came to Trinity Hall as a postgraduate student in 1962. He had been diagnosed with Motor Neurone Disease and given two years to live. Hawking later became a Fellow of Gonville and Caius College, who made sure he could continue his research and provided him with an adapted house where the wrote his book, A Complete History of Time. “The cosmologist is a living symbol of university science that started with Newton and continues today. For Cambridge guides it is a unique opportunity to tell the story of people who created the modern world, and to talk about the latest cutting edge research that is shaping our future.”
For a tour of Cambridge with Rosie Zanders contact her at: r.zanders@btinternet.com For science-themed tours in other parts of the UK visit www.britainsbestguides.org
Newton’s tree
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MY FAVOURITE
...BUILDING
Blue Badge Guides show you their favourite places around the UK
...CEMETERY
...is the Newcastle upon Tyne Literary and Philosophical Society – known affectionately as ‘the Lit and Phil’. When you first enter the library it is a ‘wow!’ moment. Though I have been a member here for 20 years, I still admire the shelves and cases housing more than 160,000 books, most of which I have yet to read. Little has changed here since the late 19th century (apart from the online catalogue system) and it is a great place to meet friends. Tea, coffee and cake are served from a hatch next to the small kitchen. It’s like a club – without the formality – and conversation is welcomed and encouraged. Patricia Lowery, North East England Blue Badge Guide patlowery@blueyonder.co.uk
Hard by the church of St Cross at the north-east end of Oxford is Holywell cemetery. Oxford has greater literary monuments, but none as atmospheric. Passing through a wooden gate, you enter a secret space of long grass and wild flowers. Ivy and lichen grow over the Victorian gravestones. Here can be found the grave of JW Burgon, poet of Petra – ‘a rose red city half as old as time’. There’s a fine memorial to The Wind in the Willows author Kenneth Grahame and to other literary lions of their day, united as one in the great leveller, death. Compared with Christ Church or other great colleges, Holywell cemetery may look insignificant, yet its mix of past and present, of Town and Gown, is utterly memorable. Alastair Lack, Oxford Green Badge Guide candalack@btinternet.com
...BUILDING ...is the Watts Chapel in the pretty Surrey village of Compton. It is part of an art studio and gallery built by the 19th century artist, George Watts to display his work. But the unexpected treasure for a visitor is not the house or the gallery, but the Memorial Chapel. This was inspired by his wife, Mary who set up evening art classes for local villagers, teaching them how to model tiles from local clay. The result is the most beautiful and unique building adorned both inside and out, with work from nearly every villager in the area. Located in the middle of the Surrey hills, this it is the perfect place for quiet contemplation whilst appreciating a hidden artistic gem.
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Sally Strange, London Blue Badge Guide, 1sally.strange@gmail.com
T I N G
1986 2016 C
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FREUD
MUSEUM LONDON
E B R E L
FREUD and the story of psychoanalysis Step through the front door of 20 Maresfield Gardens in picturesque Hampstead and discover the world of Sigmund Freud, the founder of psychoanalysis, who came here with this family in 1938 after fleeing Nazioccupied Vienna. Visit London’s most enchanting historic house museum and see Freud’s intriguing study, his original and famous psychoanalytic couch, and his collection of antiquities.
Open Wednesday – Sunday, 12noon – 5pm 20 Maresfield Gardens, Hampstead, London NW3 5SX www.freud.org.uk 020 7435 2002
TMAS FAIR CHRIS CHRISTMAS Saturday 28th November
WINTER AFTERNOON TEAS Sundays 6th & 13th December
• SPECIAL BEHIND THE SCENES WINTER GUIDED TOURS • ormation or booking call 01892 872746 or email events@chiddingstonecastle.org.uk For inffo www.chiddingstonecastle.org.uk Chiddingstone Edenbridge Kent TN8 7AD