My Table April-May 2016

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Downtown 5350 Westheimer 713 783 7270 The Woodlands 1900 Hughes Landing Blvd.

281 465 7000 www.trulucks.com ii APRIL – MAY 2016

1 APRIL – MAY 2016

L ANDRY’S SIGNATURE GROUP

Photo from Brenner’s on the Bayou

Hand-Crafted Cocktails.

Ideal Locations. Happy Hour.

GALLERIA • GALVESTON THE WOODLANDS • LAS VEGAS ATLANTIC CITY • LAKE CHARLES grottohouston.com

GALLERIA • NATIONWIDE theoceanaire.com

RIVER OAKS lagrigliahouston.com

GALLERIA • GALVESTON DOWNTOWN DENVER williegs.com

DOWNTOWN HOUSTON GALLERIA • NATIONWIDE mortons.com

2

landryssignaturegroup.com APRIL – MAY 2016

KATY FWY MEMORIAL PARK brennerssteakhouse.com

DOWNTOWN HOUSTON LAS VEGAS • ATLANTIC CITY LAKE CHARLES vicandanthonys.com

JAKE’S FINER FOODS CELEBRATING 70 YEARS

Serving others is in our roots.

As the exclusive locally-owned and family-operated broadliner in the market, meeting our customers’ needs always has been, and continues to be, our first priority. With a commitment to building on our strong foundation, we look forward to serving you for the next 70 years and beyond.

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jakesfinerfoods.com APRIL – MAY 2016

aprilmay16

inside the pages D E P A R T M E N T S

F E A T U R E S

12

20

WHEN CHEESY WORKED Or Why I Can’t Possibly Do Banana Vichyssoise Without a Waring Blender

By Micki McClelland Photography by Becca Wright

7

BEHIND THE SCENES

What we’ve been doing between issues 8

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

8

TABLE TALK

What’s going on in the Houston restaurant world?

GET A LEG UP ON LAMB Lamb recipes from three Houston restaurants

By Robin Barr Sussman

11 NOTEWORTHY OPENINGS & CLOSINGS 17 COOKING PICTORIAL

32

34

Bountiful Berry Galette

A PERSONAL REFLECTION ON A DECADE

By Grace Cavnar, Recipe for Success founder & CEO Photography courtesy of Recipe for Success

24 JUST DESSERTS

I Do Not Like This Table 26 FOOD LOVER’S QUIZINE

Of Chicken, Socks, Mousse & Rasputin 52 WINE & SPIRITS

SUPERMARKET SMACKDOWN Text and photography by Phaedra Cook

Rickey Don’t Lose That Number 55 RESTAURANT REVIEWS

40 46

SaltAir Seafood Kitchen Andes Cafe

THE VIET-CAJUN CRAWFISH CRAWL Text and photography by Mai Pham

57

ADVERTISER DIRECTORY

58 3-IN-1 REVIEW

ANOTHER MESSAGE FROM GOD (GRUMPY OLD DINER)

By Eric Gerber Illustration by Devyn Park

Cardamom Nom 60 TASTING THE TOWN

Spring for Lamb

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Warmer days, cooler nights.

M A K E Y O U R R E S E R VAT I O N S N O W

M-W 11am-11pm, TH-F 11am-12am Sat 12pm-12am, Sun 5pm-10pm

5 APRIL – MAY 2016

1131-14 Uptown Park Blvd.

Houston, TX 77056 713-871-1200 www.uptown-sushi.com

MY TABLE EDITOR & PUBLISHER

Teresa Byrne-Dodge teresa.byrnedodge@my-table.com CREATIVE DIRECTOR &

ASSOCIATE EDITOR

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

& DESIGN

Taylor Byrne Dodge taylor@my-table.com

Becca Wright becca@my-table.com

EDITORIAL

ADVERTISING

Bill Albright Sarah Bronson Grace Cavnar, Phaedra Cook Eric Gerber Nicholas L. Hall Dragana Arežina Harris Stephanie Madan Micki McClelland, Mai Pham Robin Barr Sussman

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Joan Byrne 713-529-5500 subscriptions@my-table.com BOOKKEEPER

Darla Wishart darla@my-table.com

ABOUT THE COVER ARTIST Artist and graphic designer Shelby Watson is one of our favorite My Table contributors. She lives and works in upstate New York, although she used to live in Houston. She has created and designed so many covers for us that we have lost count. For more of Watson’s work, visit shelbycreative.com.

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DETAILS My Table magazine is published by Lazywood Press (lazywoodpress.com). A one-year bimonthly subscription (six issues) is $30. Some back issues are available, $9 each. CUSTOMER SERVICE Our website lets you change the address on

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My Table: Houston’s Dining Magazine (USPS #011972, ISSN #1077-8077). Issue No. 132 (April-May 2016). Published by Lazywood Press at 1733 Harold, Houston, TX 77098. Established January 11, 1994. All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced by any means whatsoever without written permission. The opinions expressed by My Table’s writers do not necessarily reflect those of the publisher or Lazywood Press.

PERIODICALS Postage paid at Houston, TX. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to My Table, 1733 Harold, Houston, TX 77098.

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SideDish is an email newsletter published by My Table and will arrive in your inbox every Tuesday and Friday with restaurant news, wine reviews, recipes, events, give-aways and everything else that celebrates the Houston food world. Sign up today for your free SideDish subscription at www.my-table.com.

6 APRIL – MAY 2016

BEHIND THE SCENES

Writer Mai Pham (@femme_foodie) doing research for her #viet-cajun #crawfish feature on page 40.

Sarah Bronson (@usebetterwords) toughs it out and identifies 21 unique Indian sweets for her 3-in-1 review.

the social network | @HoustonHeights Nice snapshot of @a2ndcup from @MyTableMagazine.

HOUSTON HEIGHTS

Behind the scenes with @becswright as she shoots the photos for @nhallfreelance’s #rickey feature.

for indian sweet spot stops, turn to page 58.

Want to know more about the rickey?

See page 52.

| @MattMcGinnis Love this Q&A with @Jdewps about her new cookbook on @MyTableMagazine: Nosy Questions for Jessica Dupuy MATT McGINNIS

| @topshelf Thanks for the great feature! @MyTableMagazine #TopShelf #Houston #AlcoholDelivery TOPSHELF

| @pauliescookies @MyTableMagazine @MontroseHTX so much love today! Almost can’t handle it...almost COOKIES

Flip to pages 20 & 60 to get a leg up on lamb.

ON THE ROAD KILLARNEY, COUNTY KERRY, IRELAND

Here is a shot of Lara taken in Killarney National Park, along the Ring of Kerry, on the road between our base in Kenmare and the town of Killarney.

— Freddy Warner and Lara Landmesser

Next time you pack for a trip, slip My Table in your suitcase.

Send us a snapshot of yourself, the magazine and a recognizable landmark. If we publish it, we'll send you a free one-year subscription.

Mail your photo to: My Table magazine 1733 Harold Houston, TX 77098 (or email it to info@my-table.com)

7

APRIL – MAY 2016

Do you remember those odd little recipe booklets, once the darling of cheap advertising? refresh your memory on page 12.

Goodbye, garage apartment. Hello, big house! Yes, we are in the new house and office, as of about two weeks ago.

It’s not photo-ready yet, but we finally cook, sleep and shower in our dream house. It’s been a long (and need I add expensive?) restoration of this 1926 Montrose house as we took it from an unloved up-and-down duplex back to a fine single-family home. Among the changes: We raised the roof four feet to make the attic into our third-floor magazine office.

As I write this, my window view is of the surrounding treetops. The trees are leafing out just now, and in no time it will be a wall of green. But if I stand and look down into the front or back yards, the view is of mud littered with metal pipes, PVC, bricks, heaps of dirt, chunks of concrete, cinder blocks, abandoned lumber and roofing shingles.

Joyous weeds – some of them already three feet tall – have grown up among the construction debris.

On the other hand, all the potted plants I brought over here from our old

TABLE TALK

house in July 2014 have died – my enthusiasm for gardening likewise died some time last year – except for a single Meyer lemon.

Existing solely on rainwater and sunshine, that scraggly tree is blooming once again.

If I were to pick my way through the sticky mud, I’d find it enveloped by a cloud of one of the world’s best scents.

That optimistic little tree will be the cornerstone of our new garden, which I can already see as clearly in my imagination as I see this computer screen. I’ve got two pallets of Pennsylvania blue stone recovered from a River Oaks teardown ready to lay down, along with our own discarded brick to use to line the beds.

There will be vegetables, herbs and citrus, olive and fig trees. (You know what makes me crazy? I drive past my old house and see my old Meyer lemon hanging heavy with fruit that went

Out in Cypress, GERRY SARMIENTO

ILLUSTRATION BY CHRIS HSU

in the weeds

unpicked all winter.) I’m not worried that my nerdy gardener ways will come back on strong once the trash is cleared and the ground graded. I can feel some life stirring inside already.

editor & publisher

Downtown at the corner of Prairie and

has closed his Peruvian cafe Piqueo,

Main, under PROHIBITION SUPPERCLUB

revamped the space and menu, and

& BAR, work is concluding on a new

relaunched as 429 AMERICAN GRILL.

“food hall” that includes multiple

ITALIAN MARKET CAFE recently closed.

TONY MANDOLA’S big newish restau-

culinary vendors and a beer garden. It’s

In its place, HOSPITALITY USA (they have

rant on Waugh Drive has gotten a new

called CONSERVATORY, and it’s from

LOCAL POUR, the BAKER STREET PUB

paint job, new menu and new chef. Oh,

Prohibition co-owners ANH MAI and

GROUP and others) plans a new concept

and a new name: TONY MANDOLA’S

LIAN PHAM. (You may remember this

called RESTLESS PALATE. Eatsie Boys

GULF COAST KITCHEN.

space as where the MERCURY ROOM

The Katy location of D’AMICO’S

chef MATT MARCUS is consulting on the

The Mexican seafood spot LA

once was.) The four initial food vendors

menu, and PABLO GOMEZ will oversee

FISHERIA moved downtown to Milam

are MELANGE CREPERIE, JOHN AVILA’s

the day-to-day kitchen. In Midtown,

Street a couple months ago, and a new

barbecue spot EL BURRO & THE BULL,

COOK & COLLINS closed earlier this year

Chinese restaurant called GINGER &

Seattle-based SAMURAI NOODLE and

and will be replaced by STOKED TACOS

FORK has taken over the old location

MYTH KAFE, a Greek cafe. The plan is

& TEQUILA. GR8 PLATE HOSPITALITY,

at 4705 Inker. It’s from MARY LI, a

for the hall to be open daily for lunch

the operating group behind THE UNION

former long-time bartender at TONY

and dinner, with very late hours on the

KITCHEN and JAX GRILL, recently made

MANDOLA’s restaurants. She has hired

weekend.

over their PAUL’S KITCHEN (originally

executive chef SAMMY LI (no relation), a

the location of HAVEN) into THE MERRILL

veteran of the Grand Hyatt in Hong Kong

UBEREATS app in Houston. It offers

HOUSE, an event and banquet space.

and SINH SINH here in Houston.

delivery seven days a week from 10 am

8 APRIL – MAY 2016

Uber recently launched a standalone

We Sell the Best and Service the Rest!

Follow Us: @foodtechdemetri

Polyscience Sous Vide Professional CHEF Series

(713) 688-9518

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Minipack Vacuum Pack Machine

1923 Antoine Dr, Houston, TX

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Celebrating 40 Years of Business! Visit us at BerkelSalesService.com

TABLE TALK

recently has begun serving breakfast

we’ve previously reported, sandwich and

Monday through Friday. Downtown’s

take-away shop RELISH FINE FOODS

ZYDECO LOUISIANA DINER is breaking

has taken over the former BIRD AND

until 10 pm. The service area also tripled

its longstanding lunch-only schedule and

THE BEAR location at 2810 Westheimer.

in size. GELAZZI, the gelato spot at

will now open for dinner service Tuesday

Work is progressing, and the re-opening

3601 White Oak Drive, recently added

through Saturday.

is now scheduled for early June. GARY

CONNIE’S PIZZA (of Chicago) to

REPLICATIONS: BEAVER’S is opening

MOSLEY, operator of the group of

its menu. The group behind UCHI

a second location on Westheimer in the

restaurants that includes DRY CREEK

restaurants and the recently opened TOP

former TEXADELPHIA. DUSTY SAGASER

and CEDAR CREEK cafes, has purchased

KNOT in Dallas will now be known as

is executive chef.

WABASH FEED STORE on Washington

HAI HOSPITALITY. NEW HOURS: Long a privilege of

ON THE DRAWING TABLE:

Avenue. Wabash, a country store in the

BERRYHILL BAJA GRILL’s owner JEFF

big city and long a source for plants,

membership at THE HOUSTONIAN, the

ANON has announced he is taking

poultry and bunnies and their care

deliciously intimate MANOR HOUSE

over the restaurant space at 2300

products and food, is moving to a larger

restaurant is now open to the public for

Westheimer, formerly HARWOOD

and less expensive location. Meanwhile,

lunch on weekdays. For years VIC &

GRILL and 60º MASTERCRAFTED, with

Mosley plans to install a cafe called

ANTHONY’S was open for lunch on

plans to relocate the original and very

DRIFTWOOD in that location.

Fridays only. However, as of February

tiny Berryhill from across the street at

1, the restaurant is now open for lunch

2639 Revere. Anon hopes to open the

TINY BOXWOODS is opening a little

every day during the week. SHADE

new Berryhill doors in early summer. As

cookie, ice cream and coffee shop just

9 APRIL – MAY 2016

The West University location of

Tapas, Paella & Wine in Rice Village

2425 University Blvd.

713.522.9306 www.elmeson.com

TABLE TALK

Chef/Sommelier Pedro Angel Garcia

OUR PERIPATETIC CHEFS ET AL:

Gala ... to Houston chef and food truck

SAMATHA MENDOZA, the pastry chef

operator SHANNEN TUNE, who won

at TRINITI, left there late 2015 and is

Chopped in an early March episode.

next door. MILK & COOKIES should be

now at KILLEN’S STEAKHOUSE. MARK

open in June. The old ROZNOVSKY’S

SCHMIDT, who was the executive chef at

and co-workers of PETER MIELKE, an

HAMBURGERS on West T.C. Jester,

the RAINBOW LODGE 2009 to 2011, is

employee at REGINELLI’S PIZZERIA in

which closed last year after the death

back at the stove there once again.

Bellaire who was shot to death during a

of namesake RON ROZNOVSKY, is

CONGRATULATIONS … to CYRUS

CONDOLENCES … to the family

February robbery attempt at the restau-

being turned into a TACOS A GO-GO.

CACLINI, sous chef at KATA ROBATA,

rant. The restaurant has established a

KEN BRIDGE’S DELICIOUS CONCEPTS

and RACHEL DELROCCO, sommelier and

scholarship fund in his honor at Bellaire

restaurant group is partnering with

bartender at CAMERATA AT PAULIE’S.

High School … to the friends and family

FELIX FLOREZ of BLACK HILL MEATS

Both were recently included in the list of

of CARLTON GOULD, one of the pitmas-

to renovate the space at Studewood

the top 40 restaurant professionals under

ters at PIZZITOLA’S BAR-B-CUE, who

and White Oak that was, briefly, EL

40 years old by industry publication,

died on February 10 ... to the friends and

CANTINA. The new spot, to be called

FSR magazine … to chef and sommelier

family of JIM GOODE, iconic Houston

RITUAL, will feature a rustic menu and

PEDRO GARCIA – he’s owned and

restaurateur and community leader, who

charcuterie program as well as craft beer.

operated EL MESON in Rice Village

passed away in early February.

JORDAN ASHER, who was the chef at

for 35 years – who was presented

the acclaimed but now defunct DOSI

the Golden Fork Award for Houston

restaurant, is chef.

Restaurateur of the Year at the GHRA

10 APRIL – MAY 2016

For more news about restaurant openings and closings, comings and goings, follow us @MyTablemagazine and subscribe to our twice-weekly newsletter, SideDish.

noteworthy openings A 2ND CUP 1111 E. 11th St. just east of Studewood, 832-962-7656, a2ndcup.com

This is the relocation of A 2nd Cup, a philanthropic coffeehouse/restaurant dedicated to ending human trafficking.

It had previously been housed in a Heights church and open just two days a week, but had to close in 2013 when the church underwent construction. It reopened here in late 2015. At this new location A 2nd Cup is open daily 7 am to 10 pm serving breakfast (housemade granola, egg dishes, pastries), Boomtown-roasted coffee, taco plates, curried chicken salad and quiche. Erica Raggett is founder.

COOKING GIRL 315 Fairview just west of Taft, 832-6497175, thecookinggirls.com

The misbegotten Akamaru sushi restaurant has folded its rolling mat forever, and Cooking Girl is the new tenant in this pocket-sized cafe in deep Montrose.

The service is as friendly as can be, and the food is fabulous Sichuan-style home cooking. It tends toward spicy – one dish is called “Hot Hot Fried Beef Cube” – but the ladies are happy to accommodate your palate. Our favorite discovery is “TMD Soft Bacon,” which is … nope! Go be surprised.

THE DUNLAVY 3422 Allen Pkwy. at Dunlavy, 713-360-6477, thedunlavy.com/thekitchen

Possibly the most intriguing new

restaurant in Houston is this spot built on the south bank of Buffalo Bayou.

It’s a casual restaurant by day with joggers and ladies-who-lunch dropping by for smoothies, juices, snacks, salads and sandwiches; by night it’s a private venue for charity fundraisers, weddings, corporate events and such.

It’s a gorgeous setting, something truly original for Houston. The Dunlavy is from the Clark Cooper Concepts, the group that also has Ibiza, Coppa, Brasserie 19, Punk’s and SaltAir (see our review of SaltAir on page 55).

THE HALAL GUYS 3821 Farnham north of US 59 at Greenbriar, 713-681-5465, thehalalguys.com

The most famous food carts in New York City are now franchising all over the world, including Houston. The first local outpost had its soft opening in late January with UberEATS deliveries.

Early service was mayhem, at least for the 59 Diner next door where the parking lot was clogged with Halal Guys customers and cars. Since then things have settled a bit. Go off-peak times for the gyro, chicken, rice and famous “white sauce.”

Galveston eatery. Alan Duhon, who was at Haven, oversees the kitchen. The seafood menu has a strong Southern and New Orleans accent. We can’t wait to go try it. Watch SideDish for an upcoming “Snapshot.”

LITTLE LIBERTY 2365-A Rice Blvd. east of Morningside, 713-807-7224, littlelibertyhouston.com

This breakfast-lunch-dinner spot from the F.E.E.D TX Restaurant Group – they have Liberty Kitchen, BRC and others – took over the Rice Village spot that was Ruggles Cafe & Bakery for many years. When we stopped in for a recent lunch, the menu included build-your-own poke bowls, oysters, sandwiches, entrees from the grill and pizza. There’s also a children’s menu.

THE COOKING GIRL

HARBORSIDE MERCANTILE 2021 The Strand at 21st St., Galveston, 409-770-0690

Ricky Craig of Houston’s Hubcap Grill and Josh Martinez of The Chicken Ranch recently opened this new

PHOTO BY BECCA WRIGHT

noteworthy closings 59 DINER

COOK & COLLINS

KUBO’S

BROOKS FAMILY BBQ

D’AMICO’S ITALIAN MARKET CAFE

PIQUEO

CANYON CAFE

FIESTA MART

POLLO BRAVO

CELTIC GARDENS

HUGHES HANGAR

TEJAS RESTAURANT

All locations 3602 Scott

5000 Westheimer 2300 Louisiana

2416 Brazos

2643 LaCenterra, Katy 2300 N. Shepherd 2811 Washington

11 APRIL – MAY 2016

2414 University 13215 Grant Road, Cypress 5440 Memorial

12219 Alief Clodine

WHEN CHEESY WORKED Or Why I Can’t Possibly Do Banana Vichyssoise Without a Waring Blender

by Micki McClelland

This is not a story about Velveeta.

Although I personally wouldn’t use Velveeta except as a doorstop, the ersatz cheese food does figure into the theme of this article. Just as presenting dinner guests with a quivering Jell-O mold would be in questionable gastronomic taste, our 2016 culinary world discourages serving Velveeta to serious eaters. (Neither the rainbow-colored gelatin mix nor the yellow industrial waste goo is likely to turn up in the woven-hemp shopping baskets of shoppers strolling the Eastside farmers’ market, yes?)

Nevertheless, there was a time when both, er, foods enjoyed giddy favor among the American populace.

Interest was inspired not by big, hardcover cookbooks or TV celebrity chefs but instead by recipe pamphlets that were issued to help mother get creative in the kitchen. It is to the mostly passed parade of these odd little recipe booklets, once the darling of cheap advertising, that this story12 is dedicated.

APRIL – MAY 2016

Even at the beginning, these recipe pamphlets were not so much true cooking aids as they were marketing tools meant to pry open the pocketbooks of housewives. From the moment the sparsely paged publications first appeared in the mid-1870s right up to a current promotional hand-out proffered by a chastened ex-con (Martha Stewart’s Favorite Cookie Recipes), women were the target audience for these flimsy ephemera.

No punch was pulled in the sales pitch that often appeared in the form of a letter or in introductory remarks located on a recipe pamphlet’s first page: Ladies, it’s your domestic responsibility to be a good mother; therefore you must purchase our product or your family will go down to degradation and ruin.

(I paraphrase, of course.)

Commercial enterprise is forever looking for ways to push products at consumers, and during the recipepamphlet craze manufacturers were acutely aware that women control household budgets. Some wise head figured out that recipes would be the carrot stick that lured the housewife to the brand product: We want to foist this revolutionary new can-opener on you so we’re going to tempt you into buying by presenting a half-dozen pages of recipes for canned tuna that will be interspersed with our clever can-opener ads.

For the most part all expense was spared for the artwork and photography in the pamphlets, the exceptions being the head-scratching decision of both Maxfield Parrish and Norman Rockwell to render illustrations for the Jell-O marketing frenzy. (Some 15 million booklets promoting Jell-O were distributed every year in the early 20th century.) But fine art was missing in the majority of the recipe booklets, as most contained rudimentary clip-art-like depictions of food. If photography was used at all, the pictures were either faded and unappetizing or luridly colored.

Still, these booklets have a certain vintage charm that many collectors today find irresistible. At the very least, they provide snapshots of an America long gone.

Some of the little booklets begged you to believe that This is not a sales pitch. Instead, the message asked homemakers to please suspend credulity and embrace the idea that every recipe has been prepared (and kitchen-tested) for you personally by your friend the fictional Betty Crocker (WashburnCrosby Flour Co.), or the fictional Ann Pillsbury (General Mills), or the made-up Kay Kellogg (Kellogg’s), or the imaginary Mary Lynn Woods (Fleischmann’s Yeast), or the bogus Carolyn Campbell (Campbell’s Soup).

Many ladies – Mary Hemingway for example – were taken in by the marketing gimmick. While on safari in Africa in 1954 with her husband Ernest, Mary Hemingway wrote a letter to Betty Crocker asking the mythical kitchen maven how to improve the quality of flour in Kenya. “Betty” wrote back a friendly response, of course, but had to admit that questions relating to Kenyan flour were beyond her.

On the other hand, sometimes what the fictitious namesake dished out was not always a crock. In response to truckloads of queries from fans, “Betty Crocker” set herself up as someone steeped in knowledge about the eating habits of men. In his book It Happened in Minnesota author Darrell Ehrlick cites this shrewd observance taken from a Betty Crocker letter to a member of her adoring public: “If you load a man’s stomach with boiled cabbage and greasy fried potatoes can you wonder that he wants to start a fight or go out and commit a crime?”

That the recipe pamphlets were free should have been a red flag. As early as 1878 when Mrs. Winslow’s Domestic Receipt (sic) Book was freely distributed to the happy homemakers of America it did not matter that the two or three recipes printed on each page were followed by four or five advertisements for the sale of Mrs. Winslow’s miraculous remedies. Take her Soothing Syrup, for example. For $1.50 a bottle, ladies who “desired to be a proper mother” could purchase the syrup that was guaranteed to “quiet restless children.” Promising “children would rise up and bless her,” mother

13 APRIL – MAY 2016

BANANA VICHYSSOISE Recipe from the Waring Blendor Cook Book 1 cup coarsely diced raw potato ½ cup coarsely diced onion 1 cup coarsely diced peeled apple ½ cup sliced tender celery 1 yellow banana, peeled and sliced 1½ cups well-seasoned chicken broth ½ tsp. salt 1 Tbsp. butter ½ tsp. curry powder 1 cup heavy cream Put potato, onion, apple, celery, banana and chicken broth in saucepan. Cover and bring to boil. Simmer over low heat until tender, about 15 minutes. Put in glass container of “blendor,” adding salt, butter and curry powder. Cover and blend until smooth, about 30 seconds. Stir in cream and chill thoroughly. Serve garnished with minced chives. Gives 4 servings.

METHOD:

POMP & PAMPHLETS Some Examples of the Genre • Dainty Desserts for Dainty People (1915), published by Knox Gelatin • You’re Really Cooking when You’re Cooking with 7-Up (1957), advises the cook to baste a roast with 7-Up: “Your family will notice the sparkling new flavor!”

• In Can-Opener Cookery, the recipe for Chili Bake has three ingredients. Two of them are canned products.

• Wartime Recipes That Taste Good, subtitled: Know Your Raisins (12 pages), was published by Sun-Maid Raisins.

• Good Things to Eat (16 pages) was unique because recipes are given in both English and Hebrew.

• The House of Calvert Party Encyclopedia: Complete Guide to Home Entertaining (1960) offers 295 drink recipes with accompanying ads containing the message: Whiskey is Delicious.

• The cover of Monarch’s Mad Mad Diet Menu & Recipe Book, published in the 1950s by Monarch Canned Foods, shows a happy housewife posed with a bundt cake on her head.

• Feeling entrepreneurial? Hills Bros. published Making Fruit Cakes for Sale in 1930.

• So You’re Canning was published

by Domino Sugar throughout the 1940s.

could ladle a concoction made of morphine, alcohol and ammonia down their tiny bird-like throats.

But the fiendish drool for money did not drive the purpose of all recipe pamphlet publications. Some were apparently quite sincere in a desire to be helpful, such as 50 Ways of Serving Cream of Wheat (published by the makers of same in 1924). With 32 pages and a cover featuring the iconic toqued Cream of Wheat chef, the recipes inside were simple and straightforward. Codfish balls for example could be easily made with Cream of Wheat, the fish, an egg and pepper, and then fried.

It was the well-attended 1904 St. Louis World’s Fair that really revved up enthusiasm for free recipe booklets.

After winning three grand prizes – one each for highest grade flour, glitziest exhibit and best loaf of bread – the Pillsbury Co. handed out free 32page pamphlets to the huddled masses who then stuck Pillsbury’s guide for bread-baking in their purses and carted them home to towns across the nation.

The flour did not flower alone in the bed of the giant exposition. Jell-O was also there with samples and its ubiquitous recipe leaflets, as were the modest booklets handed to one and all by the Towles Log Cabin Syrup Company. The World’s Fair started the ball rolling, and soon every company that had a kitchen-related product began publishing recipe pamphlets.

In an attempt to prove their interest in the public good went beyond crass commercialism editors for these little publications often included sidebars containing recommendations for everything from health tips to beauty secrets.

One such lagniappe printed in bold type advised milady on a way to get rid of freckles: Scrape a raw horseradish into a cup of sour milk. Let it sit for 12 hours, then apply 2 to 3 times a day. Another from the Herbs & Spices for Home

• How to Pack Lunchboxes for War Workers (1943, 23 pages), was published by Westinghouse Electric.

Use booklet (Nature’s Herb Co., San Francisco) suggested that to relieve sinus congestion one must “snuff well up into the nasal passages” a concoction made of menthol, turpentine, camphor, blood root, balm of Gilead buds, sesame oil, prepared suet and yellow wax.

And from the Fleischmann Company’s Delightful Breads (1928 edition), this testimonial from customer Mrs. M. S. Parsons of Minneapolis appeared juxtaposed to what looks like a small chunk of yeast: “I was so nervous and run down I couldn’t stand the slightest noise, and could hardly do my housework. I weighed only 97 pounds and was badly constipated. Then I began eating Fleischmann’s Yeast on the first of August. Now I am entirely relieved of constipation and my nerves are like iron again.”

And I haven’t forgotten Velveeta, which oozed into our nation’s barecupboard kitchens during the Depression. Wildly off the mark at the time, the American Medical Association decided to honor Velveeta by awarding the “cheese” with the association’s very first seal of approval. Stating your doctor will gladly tell you more about the benefits of Velveeta,” the AMA went on to say that Velveeta has all the nutritional value to “build firm flesh.”

(And it truly does flesh one up. Just ask that guy wearing the unzipped size 54 jeans sitting in front of the TV with a platter of nachos balanced on his belly.)

On the cover of a Velveeta recipe pamphlet issued in the 1940s is an illustration of a smiley-faced little girl who claims, in a bubble positioned over her pig-tailed head, that the cheese is her “favorite-est.” Perhaps Velveeta did aid the homemaker during World War II rationing, but apparently it did nothing to help the ongoing struggle to install proper English in the mouths of babes.

To cut costs companies sometimes cooperated in a joint publishing project, such as the Best of All Days Cookbook that listed Alcoa Wrap, Nestlé Co., Penick & Ford (Brer Rabbit syrup), Pillsbury Co., Red Star Yeast Co. and Stokely-Van Camp Inc. (canned beans) on its cover. Inside the 23-page

continued on page 16 14 APRIL – MAY 2016

dear homemaker 1 Pamphlet cover: 48 Home-Tested

UNUSUAL OLD WORLD and American Recipes – Completely Illustrated with Beautiful Heavy Aluminum Utensils Used in Their Preparation – NORDIC WARE (Nordic Ware introduced the bundt cake pan in 1950) The “Dear Homemaker” foreword:

The purpose of this booklet is to answer the hundreds of inquiries received from customers … “Do you have a recipe that can be used for all your molds?” ... “What are Krumkakes?” ... “or Rosettes?” … “or Ebleskiver?” Our second purpose is, of course, to present to you illustrations of our entire line of beautiful Aluminum Ware.

(17 pages, five with product ads)

2 Pamphlet Cover: Want Something Different? 48 New JELL-O Entrées, Relishes, Salads, Desserts. (distributed in 1931)

The “Dear Homemaker” foreword:

To fastidious housewives and careful mothers – Jell-O’s pure fruit flavors are an all-important point. Jell-O never becomes tough or rubbery. Its inner waxed envelope is sealed by a patented process which no one else can use. And most amazing of all, you’ll find even the most “companyfied” of Jell-O surprises easy to make. (23 pages, five pushing the product)

3 Pamphlet cover: Recipes for Delicious Varieties of Bread – The Fleischmann Company (distributed in 1928) The “Dear Homemaker” foreword:

In baking bread one of the most important points to consider is the yeast. Wherever possible, keep it in an ice-box, where it will be dry as well as cold. Though Fleischmann’s Yeast may discolor at times, this in no way impairs its quality. When it becomes too soft to handle, do not use it. The recipes given here are clear and easy to follow – but when pressed for time you can get most of the breads from your baker. (48 pages, three with customer testimonials, six devoted to selling yeast chunks)

2

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15 APRIL – MAY 2016

booklet there is the prerequisite letter addressed to the Dear Homemaker, which is followed by mailing addresses of all concerned, even the illusory Ann Pillsbury, should the homemaker wish to jot a thank-you letter. If your interest flies toward Broiled Bean Sandwiches, Lemon Lassies or Swedish Tea Logs this nifty little toss-away has the skinny on the how-to.

It was during the 1950s that recipe pamphlets upped the ante again. Not satisfied with just selling yeast cubes, companies got bolder and started using the little booklets to sell big items, too – like refrigerators and electric ranges, mixers and blenders. That some of the appliances cost more than a car at the time was of no moment. The pitch was: If you want to be the perfect Mom you better start cooking in pearls and high heels just like June Cleaver and you better buy a Frigidaire!

In the Waring Blendor Cook Book, foodie guide postcard decthat 2013the alt_Layout 1 1955, one ad promises “comfortable handle” on a Waring

Mixor (sic) “eliminates wrist fatigue,” making it easier to whip up a Tongue Loaf to go with the booklet’s blendormade Banana Vichyssoise. And in a revolutionary departure from the rest of the pamphlet crowd, Waring included a two-page section entitled Recipes for Men. The cheerful intro to the section promises: “Practically any man can learn to cook a few dazzling specialties – especially if he uses his Waring Blendor!”

Today we regard these recipe pamphlets with nostalgia, and some of us make it a point to search for them when rummaging through antique shops, flea markets and garage sales.

Regarded now as quaint curiosities, they are no longer free but can command prices ranging from 50 cents (22 Ways to Serve Del Monte Asparagus) to $270 on eBay for a copy of Cocktail Parade, an 18-page booklet published in December 1933 immediately after the 11/19/13 1:02 AM Page 3 end of Prohibition.

Some of these vintage recipe booklets

appeal to specific collectors. For example, lovers of all things chocolate should snatch up a copy of Choice Recipes featuring cocoa and chocolate recipes published in 1907 by Walter Baker & Co. If you have examples of these recipe booklet tucked away in a trunk, get them out. Frame them. Cook from them. Sell them. Have a giggle. Or put them back away for your grandchildren.

Postscript: This is not a story about Velveeta. However it might interest the reader to know that it was the Swiss immigrant Emil Frey who, while working in a cheese factory in New York in the 1920s, came up with the idea to collect cheese scraps from the factory floor and then turn the industrial waste into the product that this story is not about.

From table to timbre of the message Micki McClelland is a regular contributor of articles devoted to good taste.

GRAB YOURS BEFORE THEY'RE GONE.

also available at

16 APRIL – MAY 2016

bountiful berry galette Text and photos by Dragana Arežina Harris

age p e th e Flip e recip th tep s for y ep-b t s & tos o h p

17 APRIL – MAY 2016

Fresh berries have got to be one of the great gifts of spring and summer.

Juicy and sweet when ripe, berries are delicious when eaten raw, blended into a nutritious drink, preserved and especially good when baked in this rustic tart. My favorite part is spooning up the jammy purple nectar that oozes onto the baking sheet.

I’ve been baking this rustic tart – or galette in French – for many years with a variety of fruits and spices. I adapted it from a recipe by Susan Spungen, author, recipe developer and culinary consultant and food stylist on the set of the movie Julie & Julia.

For those of you that are afraid of working with pastry dough, baking a tart in galette form is a great option.

A galette is a flat, freeform tart with a sweet or savory filling on top of a sweet or savory pastry crust. It doesn’t need to be perfectly measured and placed in a tart pan, but simply rolled out, filled and folded over. Its imperfections are pleasing and suggest simpler, wholesome and carefree times.

This delicate buttery crust consists of raw almonds, which add a textural contrast with their healthful crunch.

The crust works year-round as a great base for whatever fruit is in season: berries, figs, cherries, apples, cranberries, firm pears or stone fruits. Baking berries

with a little sugar mellows out any tart berries in the filling and produces a sweet luscious aroma. Sweeten the berry filling to your taste: 2 to 4 tablespoons will be sufficient.

Note: Since I cannot leave well enough alone when I’ve mastered a recipe, I experiment and test new flavor combinations – and you can too. To the crust dough, I added warm spices such as cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cardamom and black pepper for a spicy twist. In contrast, the berries are tossed in lemon juice and lemon zest. Make this galette your own with fruits and spices that please your own palate.

GRIND FIRST 9 INGREDIENTS IN FOOD PROCESSOR.

ADD BUTTER AND ALMOND EXTRACT AND PULSE UNTIL BUTTER IS PEA-SIZE.

RUSTIC BERRY GALETTES WITH PEPPERY ALMOND CRUST

Adapted from a recipe by Susan Spungen For the crust 1½ cups all-purpose flour ½ cup whole raw almonds 2 to 4 Tbsp. sugar ½ tsp. salt ½ tsp. ground cinnamon ½ tsp. ground ginger pinch of nutmeg ½ tsp. ground cardamom, optional ½ tsp. freshly ground pepper, optional 1½ sticks cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch pieces

18 APRIL – MAY 2016

¼ tsp. almond extract 4 to 5 Tbsp. ice water For the filling 4 to 5 cups berries (one kind, or a combination of blueberries, raspberries and blackberries), rinsed and patted dry 2 Tbsp. lemon juice ½ cup sugar zest of 1 lemon (about ½ Tbsp.)

2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour For the top ¼ cup sliced almonds 1 Tbsp. sugar First make the crust. Place flour, almonds, sugar, salt, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cardamom and pepper in a food processor. Pulse to grind the almonds until they are coarsely chopped and blended with the flour. Add butter and almond extract and pulse until butter is the size of peas. Add 4 tablespoons water and pulse about 6 times.

If the dough is starting to form a loose ball, remove dough onto a large sheet of plastic wrap. If the dough is still very dry, add 1 more tablespoon water and pulse until the dough starts to form a loose ball. Press into about a 7-inch square. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least one hour or overnight.

METHOD:

ADD WATER AND PULSE. WHEN DOUGH FORMS LOOSE BALL, REMOVE.

SPRINKLE BERRIES WITH LEMON JUICE AND ZEST-SUGAR-FLOUR MIXTURE.

CUT DOUGH INTO 4 SQUARES FOR INDIVIDUAL GALETTES.

WITH FLOURED SIDE OF DOUGH FACE-UP, FILL GALETTES WITH BERRIES.

When you’re ready to make the galettes, remove the dough from refrigerator and allow it to soften a little (about 15 minutes). Preheat oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Line a large cookie sheet with parchment paper or a silpat.

Place berries in a medium bowl and sprinkle them with lemon juice. In a small bowl, combine sugar, lemon zest and flour. Sprinkle over berries and gently toss with a large spoon to coat berries with flour.

Place dough on a well-floured surface.

If making 4 individual galettes, cut dough into 4 squares. Working with one square at a time, sprinkle tops of dough with a little flour. Using a rolling pin, roll the dough into a squarish shape about 7-inches square. If the shape is irregular, that’s okay. (It’s supposed to

look rustic.) Using your fingers, press together any areas of the dough that have split and then flip the dough over so that the heavily floured side is on the top. It will look messy (see photo above), but the additional flour will help absorb the juices from the berries.

Leaving about 1 inch on the sides, top each piece of dough with about a fourth of the berries. Fold dough over berries, leaving the middle exposed and pleating dough on itself where necessary.

Using a large spatula, carefully transfer galettes to prepared cookie sheet. Brush crust with water and sprinkle with sliced almonds and sugar.

If you’re making one large galette, dust dough with flour and roll dough to about 14 inches in diameter. Transfer dough to the cookie sheet by rolling it on the rolling pin and then un-

rolling it on the cookie sheet. Place berry mixture on the dough, leaving a 2-inch border. Fold border onto berries, brush with water and sprinkle with almonds and sugar.

Bake galettes until the crust is golden brown and the berries are bubbling, about 25 to 30 minutes (small galettes) or 35 to 45 minutes (large size).

Remove from oven. Cool galette and serve at room temperature, or serve warm with ice cream. Yields 4 individual tarts or 1 large galette.

19 APRIL – MAY 2016

Dragana Arežina Harris is a life-long food, wine and travel enthusiast. She blogs about food at draganabakes. blogspot.com and dabbles in chocolate at dragana-bakes.com

GET A LEg up ON

B M A

L

by Robin Barr Sussman

Springtime means glorious weather, a fresh new bundle of produce and lamb. For those of you who are a bit sheepish about the best way to cook this sweetly fragrant, earthy-flavored “other red meat,” here are three lamb recipes from local restaurants. Get cooking, chop chop!

BRENNAN’S OF HOUSTON

20 APRIL – MAY 2016

WEIGHTS + MEASURES

BRAISED LAMB SHANK “OSSO BUCO” Recipe by chef Danny Trace at Brennan’s of Houston The chefs at Brennan’s have many lamb recipes up their toques, which are served according to the season and occasion.

Here’s a big, meaty lamb dish that incorporates bourbon, mint and orange for a bright finish.

4 lamb shanks Creole seasoning to taste ½ cup grapeseed oil 1 cup onion, medium dice ½ cup carrots, medium dice ½ cup celery, medium dice 6 garlic cloves 2 cups red wine 1 cup bourbon 1 cup tomatoes, diced (fresh or canned) 1 orange, sliced 2 sprigs fresh thyme 2 sprigs fresh oregano 3 bay leaves 8 sprigs mint leaves

6 cups lamb stock or water 1 tsp. granulated sugar Preheat oven to 325°. Season the lamb with Creole seasoning and rub well.

In a 12- or 14-inch cast-iron skillet add oil over medium heat and sear lamb on all sides. Add onions, carrots, celery and garlic. Stir all together and cook until vegetables are caramelized. Deglaze with red wine and bourbon. Turn heat off. Add diced tomatoes, orange, thyme, oregano, bay leaves, 4 mint sprigs and stock.

Cover with foil and place in a 325° oven for 4 hours, or until meat is tender.

Once meat is cooked, remove shanks from the pan and set aside on a large serving bowl or platter (covered to keep warm).

Strain the remaining liquid from the pan into a saucepan and skim fat layer off of the top. Simmer over medium heat, skimming occasionally until liquid yields about 2 cups. Remove stems from the remaining mint and discard. Steep the mint leaves21 in the sauce just until A P R I L –45 M Aseconds), Y 2016 wilted (about then stir in METHOD:

sugar and strain into a serving container.

Plate each lamb shank and cover with a generous amount of the sauce. Serves 4.

GRILLED LAMB CHOPS & ROASTED GARLIC POLENTA Recipe by Richard Kaplan, Weights + Measures Chef Richard Kaplan serves this sumptuous grilled lamb chop dish with creamy polenta at the restaurant on holidays and special occasions.

2 cups polenta 4 cups water ½ tsp. salt 1 cup heavy cream 1 Tbsp. roasted garlic 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter salt and pepper to taste 8 lamb chops (1/2-inch thick) cut from lamb rack with bone attached, cleaned salt, pepper and granulated garlic to taste

For the polenta Bring polenta, water and salt to a boil in a deep pan. Lower heat, cover and simmer for 6 to 8 minutes.

Stir in cream, garlic and butter, salt and pepper to taste. Keep warm until lamb chops are grilled.

METHOD:

For the lamb chops METHOD:

Rub chops with salt, pepper and granulated garlic. Heat a grill to high heat. Grill lamb chops for about 2 minutes and then flip the chops over and cook for another 3 minutes for medium-rare.

To serve: Spoon a serving of warm polenta and two lamb chops on each plate. Garnish with parsley or rosemary.

Serve immediately. Serves 4.

ZA’ATAR-DUSTED LAMB CHOPS WITH SOUR CHERRY GLAZE Recipe courtesy of Phoenicia Specialty Foods Za’atar is an aromatic spice blend in Middle Eastern cuisine that is typically made up of toasted white sesame seeds, ground sumac, thyme and salt.

Succulent lamb chops get a zesty punch with the fragrant seasoning while pairing well with the sweet tartness of the sour cherry demi-glace.

2 lb. lamb rack (about 12 bones), trimmed French-style of excess fat 1 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. ground black pepper 1 tsp. za’atar spice 1 tsp. lemon zest 1 Tbsp. parsley leaves, minced 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil garnish of orange zest and fresh herbs Preheat oven to 375° while allowing lamb rack to come to room temperature, about 30 minutes. In a bowl, combine salt, pepper, za’atar, lemon zest, parsley and oil. Pat lamb of any excess moisture with a paper towel.

Liberally rub the spice blend over the entire rack. Place lamb on a lightly oiled roasting pan and cook (bone-side down) for 15 minutes until medium rare (150155 degree internal temperature).

Remove from oven and baste lamb rack with juices from the the roasting pan. Allow lamb rack to rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Slice lamb into two-bone chops. Arrange on a platter and liberally spoon sour cherry sauce (recipe to the right) over the lamb sections. Garnish with orange zest and herbs. Serves 4.

METHOD:

PHOENICIA SPECIALTY FOODS

22 APRIL – MAY 2016 PHOTOS COURTESY OF RESTAURANTS

SOUR CHERRY SAUCE

2 qts. lamb or beef stock 1 qt. red wine ½ cup orange juice 1 fresh bay leaf 1 sprig each of thyme, rosemary, fresh lemongrass, tarragon 1 tsp. black peppercorns 1 tsp. coriander seeds 1 tsp. orange zest ¼ cup sour cherries, dried and pitted ¼ tsp. ground nutmeg 1 pinch ground cinnamon ½ tsp. ground cumin 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cubed In a deep saucepan, combine stock, wine, orange juice, bay leaf, herbs, peppercorns and coriander seeds.

Heat to medium simmer and allow liquid to reduce by half. Remove from heat and finely strain.

Return to a low simmer and add orange zest, cherries, nutmeg and remaining spices. Whisk to incorporate.

Continue to simmer until thickened.

Remove from heat and melt butter into sauce until combined. Keep warm and reserve for lamb rack.

METHOD:

Robin Barr Sussman regularly writes our Tasting The Town column on page 60.

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23 APRIL – MAY 2016

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i do not like this table

by Stephanie Madan

Being profiled is so annoying. I have already denounced it once, after encountering it in a certain windy city.

I thought that would be the end of my ranting, but here we are again.

A smallish blonde, let’s call her me, entered a restaurant (starts with M) in another certain city (starts with H).

Already in place was the hostess who, upon scanning her book, failed to find the reservation. It was barely opening time, and I was the only customer in the place. Even so, I was led to a tiny table for two wedged against a staircase.

Were I to seat myself, my head would contact that staircase. My bag would reside in the path of many. The point is, I would be squashed and my bag subjected to who knows how many scuffles with errant traveling feet. I did not like this table.

The hostess had mysteriously vanished in the nanosecond I required to reach this conclusion. I did not sit down. I inspected the card identifying wines by the glass. When a young man approached to take my drink order, I conveyed my choice and also that I wished to enjoy that drink at a different table.

His supercilious attitude would have been more effective if he weren’t wearing a Bugs Bunny Band-Aid. He announced there were no other tables available. We both took a moment to survey the room, he surely noticing, as I did, that the restaurant held only one customer and she was me. I nodded my head toward a table in a pleasant location only to learn it was reserved.

I nodded to another one. It, too, was spoken for. Abandoning my nod-don’tpoint genteelness, I pointed to a third one. That one, too, was taken.

A talk with someone in manage-

ment seemed warranted. I voiced this request and then awaited the manager.

I awaited a long time. The Bugs Bunny server returned with the glass of wine I did not want until I was seated at a better table. I asked about the nonarriving manager. The server stated he would attend me in good time.

I thought about this as I took a sip of the wine, excellent despite its worrisome, just shy of gold, hue – a crisp Sancerre, not over-chilled, in a correct crystal wine glass. I relaxed a little. I awaited the manager some more, then hailed the server and asked that he prod any manager at all to make time for me. He grinned. He had known I would be thwarted.

The friend I was meeting had chosen the venue, so I was reluctant to leave. I leaned against the staircase wall. In retrospect, I realize mine was a misplaced optimism, this daring to hope for a win-win conclusion – probably better, though, than assuming the worst and shrieking “I spit on you and your tiny cramped-location table!”

(I would not actually spit.)

The server approached. Any word?

I wondered. The server grinned. A manager would be with me right after a phone call. That grin again. I realized I was the loser in the restaurant’s game of “how rude and dismissive can we be to a solo female who is almost certainly of no consequence and/or up to louche shenanigans?”

I was announcing my departure just as a manager strode toward me. I explained my dilemma and requested another table. Unfortunately there were no other tables available, he reported.

Another moment taken to survey the room with its many empty tables convinced me it was still wide open.

24 APRIL – MAY 2016 PHOTO FROM BIGSTOCK.COM

CARTOON BY DOUG PIKE

How about that one? I nodded. No, indeed. That one? Not available.

I double-checked. All other tables were reserved. I did not spit, merely initiated the exit process, beckoning the server to bring the bill. The manager did not demonstrate dismay regarding the restaurant’s unfortunate inability to meet my needs. He probably hated to lie. He also did not comp the wine. He and I will never be close.

I paid for the $19 glass of wine I did not drink (I concede I should have checked prices) plus left over 25 percent in tip to avoid the waiting game for change. As I pulled out my phone to text my friend regarding the development, I mentioned to the Bugs Bunny server that I was to have met a friend and asked him to advise her to check her texts when she arrived. He recognized the name I provided, the name of a restaurant owner/chef (starts with K).

My. The server sprinted off, his six dollars accompanying him, and

enlightened the manager. The manager reappeared. The following 30 seconds are as close as I will ever get to living the Pretty Woman dream scene of being extravagantly sucked up to. What table had I been asking for? he wondered.

I reminded him that I had already nodded (not pointed) toward two – either would have been fine. He invited me to take my pick. I was welcome to occupy any table.

The tables were reserved, I reminded him. No they weren’t, he responded in a conspiratorial voice. Ah. I declined the offer, tipped the valet five dollars for a 15-minute, one-sip-of-wine experience and drove to my friend’s restaurant where she was held rapt by my tale.

The lesson some might take away is, if you are going to be condescending, do not wear cartoon Band-Aids. This is true, but somewhat shallow. Perhaps there is more. Obviously, the owner would have been appalled had he been aware of his staff’s misguided filter.

Those myopic fellows cost the restau25 APRIL – MAY 2016

rant my good will. If the restaurant lost my patronage this way, how many others have been similarly offended and abandoned the restaurant as a desirable destination?

I am told by my friend Alan, whose reports I trust, that the restaurant’s culture has been reinvented and there is good reason to believe a woman alone will be treated as a valued patron.

I will therefore end this long period of sulking, try the restaurant again.

We will see. However, here are several things I would love restaurateurs to consider: The world is round. Global warming is real. Women carry financial clout and generally tip more than men.

My memory is long. And mine is not the only one.

Stephanie Madan writes about food and the dilemmas she finds herself in that so often include it. Her current goal in life is to eat three dozen raw oysters with three glasses of Champagne and suffer no consequences.

OF CHICKEN, SOCKS, MOUSSE F RASPUTIN Food Lover's Quizine • by Micki McClelland

Please know that April is Alcohol Awareness Month. For some of us that is a completely unnecessary reminder. But in an effort to stay with the spirit of the message, it’s helpful to remember what Oscar Wilde had to say on the subject: “Alcohol, taken in sufficient quantities, may produce all the effects of drunkenness.”

Thank you, Oscar.

Being singled out as the National Month of anything is really something.

Happily for those who like to have an excuse to celebrate stuff, the calendar is crammed with a slew of official designations. For example, during the whole of April we get to fry up the bacon for National BLT Month as well as cheer from our highchairs for National Grilled Cheese Sandwich Month. And when May arrives the month-long tribute horn will blow loud and long for both Artisan Gelato and Vinegar.

However there are certain foods that have been relegated to mere National Day status. Rather embarrassing for a Peanut Butter & Jelly Sandwich to have its salute limited to April 2, and the same goes for Pigs-in-a-Blanket (April 24), Liver and Onions (May 10) and Grape Popsicles (May 27).

Listed below are other days in April and May hallmarked for honor. Place a checkmark beside each day that you feel is legitimate and X-out those days you feel are too silly for words.

1

APRIL

Draw a Picture of a Bird Day Rubber Eraser Day National Cheeseball Day Hug an Australian Day

MAY

National Candied Orange Peel Day Lost Sock Memorial Day Dance like a Chicken Day No Dirty Dishes Day As our love affair ends and the magnificent Downton Abbey rides off into the sunset, we sit and reflect on what sparked such passion. One thing’s for certain, the juiciest bits in Julian Fellowes’ epic television series did not take place in the boudoir. No, instead it was at table in Lord and Lady Grantham’s dining room that we saw loins fired up, breasts heave and mouths stay parted for just one more orgiastic forkful. Of course the underbelly for all the sensual pleasure taking place upstairs began down in Mrs. Patmore’s kitchen. But were those close-up shots of food and drink the real meal deal, or – how vulgar! – just camera tricks?

According to Lisa Heathcote, the official food stylist for the series, Season 4 brought the troubling challenge of preparing salmon mousse – Season 4 scripts had mention of mousse everywhere. But any fish dish, if allowed to sit out in a warm room for any length of time, can get stinky and noxious. So how did food stylist Heathcote circumvent the tedious waiting time during the 2

26 APRIL – MAY 2016

long scene takes and re-takes, ultimately bringing to His Lordship’s table trays of gorgeous mousse guaranteed not to poison the cast members?

3

What is a fruit cocktail tree?

Clever people can’t help it. With pithy remarks scorch-branded onto their DNA it is virtually impossible for clever people to be boring. In the game below you will find a swath of quotable quotes with hints given as to who the speaker might be. Your mission is to match the quote to the clever person who said it. (a) “How can a nation be great if its bread tastes like Kleenex?” (In a 1978 skit on Saturday Night Live Dan Aykroyd did a fine but bloody impression of this iconic chef.) (b) “New Orleans food is as delicious as the less criminal forms of sin.”

(In 1865 this writer wrote a funny short story about a frog that won him national acclaim.) (c) “Food is an important part of a balanced diet.” (This female wit growls for smokers’ rights, dresses in men’s suits and keeps the sneer on when critiquing our modern culture.) (d) “Seize the moment. Remember all those women on the Titanic who 4

waved off the dessert cart.” (This humorous columnist liked dissecting the vacuum found in the parlors of suburban housewives.) (e) “Ice cream is exquisite. What a pity it isn’t illegal.” (An advocate of religious tolerance and freedom of thought, this writer was jailed twice and exiled repeatedly from the country of his birth, but he was filthy rich so he just kept advocating.) (f) “You have to be romantic to invest yourself, your money and your time in cheese.” (This food writer hates vegetarians, likes to eat on the streets of the world and – when working as a chef – would fire anyone in his kitchen who played music by Billy Joel or ABBA.) (g) “The trouble with eating Italian is that five or six days later you’re hungry again.” (This Australian writer/film director gave us Mad Max, Nicole Kidman and Babe.) (h) “We must have pie. Stress cannot exist in the presence of a pie.” (This writer’s black comedy script for Wag the Dog put both beans and Albania on the map.)

Dinner and A Movie

FOR THE QUESTION ABOVE, A SELECTION OF NAMES TO CHOOSE FROM:

F. Scott Fitzgerald, Gertrude Stein, Fran Lebowitz, Anthony Bourdain, Voltaire, David Mamet, Julia Child, Fred Rogers, James Beard, George Miller, Mark Twain, Anne Rice, George Bernard Shaw, Agatha Christie, St. Augustine, Erma Bombeck What kind of socks should you wear to plant a vegetable garden?

ILLUSTRATION BY CINDY VATTATHIL

5

Who made the campaign promise: “A chicken in every pot for Sunday dinner,” and did the candidate for the American presidency deliver?

6

Ever wonder what it was like to be Grigori Rasputin? The mystic faith healer and advisor to the last Tsar of Russia Nicholas II and his hankiewringing wife Alexandra, Rasputin was one nutty guy. By most standards he was scary as hell to look at; however, Rasputin was an erotomaniac, 7

believing that everyone he came in contact with would fall immediately and irreversibly in love with him. A favorite story about Rasputin concerns the night he stumbled (reputedly liquored-up to the gills) into the Yar Restaurant in Moscow. Famous for its all-female gypsy choir that entertained customers during the dinner hours, the Yar Restaurant management found it necessary to call the police after Rasputin terrorized the gypsies. What did the uncouth, unwashed, sexually promiscuous Mad Monk do?

27 APRIL – MAY 2016

In her memoir Going Rogue Sarah Palin tells of the wedding dinner shared with husband Todd after their elopement in 1988. Where did those two lovebirds dine post-nuptials?

8

Answers appear on page 29.

Writer Micki McClelland recalls that Rasputin was hard to kill. Assassins tried everything – cyanide-laced petit fours, cyanide-spiked cherry brandy, swords, guns and drowning. Perhaps a drive through Wendy’s would have done it.

RIVER OAKS HOUSTON

A backyard with a view.

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And it’s an area that requires a greater range of skills than ever before. We are the chain that links your property, advertising, sales promotion, persuasion, negotiation and successful closure.

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RIVER O AKS 2016 OUTLOOK

Cameron Ansari and Teresa Byrne-Dodge

MARKE

RIVER OAKS MARKET REPORT

T REPO RT

& 28 APRIL – MAY 2016

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GREENWOOD

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ANSWERS 1 All National Days listed for both

April and May are allowed to boast legitimacy.

2 To make faux salmon mousse food

stylist Lisa Heathcote concocted a mixture of chopped chicken, cream cheese, cottage cheese and food coloring; thus the camera aesthetic was pleased, and the actors who had to eat the stuff didn’t die.

3 Developed by grafting the fruiting

wood of different fruit varieties on a single root stock, a self-pollinating fruit cocktail tree will see its branches bear peaches, plums, nectarines, apricots, etc., each ripening at different times in the season.

4 (a) Julia Child, (b) Mark Twain,

(c) Fran Lebowitz, (d) Erma Bombeck, (e) Voltaire, (f) Anthony Bourdain, (g) George Miller, (h) David Mamet.

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5 Garden hose 6 The phrase was first used by Henry

IV of France, who really meant it and tried his best to follow through on the promise. Picked up by Herbert Hoover in his bid for a win in the 1928 presidential campaign, Hoover went on to declare that “Republican efficiency has filled the workingman’s dinner pail.” However, the Great Depression of 1929 never allowed the egg holding the proverbial chicken to crack open, and the proverbial dinner pail was, alas, left empty.

7 Rasputin pulled up his monk’s

robe and flashed the gypsies – none of whom fell in love with him immediately. It seems not even one gypsy was impressed by his rather flaccid example of Russian power.

8 Wendy’s drive-thru

29 APRIL – MAY 2016

THANK YOU TO OUR PARTICIPANTS IN BEST BITES!

30

rodeohouston.com APRIL – MAY 2016

Houston Livestock Show and RodeoTM

OUTSTANDING SHOWMANSHIP AWARD

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Grand Champion – Davis Street at Hermann Park Reserve Grand Champion – Squash Blossom Catering Third Place - Houston Texans Grille

PEOPLE’S CHOICE AWARD Grand Champion – Royers Round Top Café: Royers Chocolate Chess Pie Reserve Grand Champion – Grazia Italian Kitchen: Smoked Beef Short Rib Served Over Pancetta Risotto Topped with a Cilantro Molasses Glaze

TASTY TRADITIONS AWARD Grand Champion – Joyce’s Seafood & Steaks

TRAILBLAZING APPETIZER/STARTER AWARD Grand Champion – Max’s Wine Dive: fried oysters over wonton crisp Reserve Grand Champion – Federal Grill: truffled beef carpaccio Third Place – Sonoma Wine Bar & Restaurant: all-natural pork-and-beef meatballs, kale, fresh mozzarella cheese, sweet tomato broth and rustic baguette

LONE STAR ENTRÉE AWARD Grand Champion – Grazia Italian Kitchen: smoked beef short rib served over pancetta risotto, topped with a cilantro molasses glaze Reserve Grand Champion – Newk’s Eatery: pimento and bacon mac and cheese Third Place – Taste of Texas: beef tenderloin

TWO-STEPPIN’ DESSERT AWARD Grand Champion – Trentino Gelato: gelato pops Reserve Grand Champion – Joyce’s Seafood & Steaks: white chocolate bread pudding Third Place – Mostly Chocolate & Catering: truffles

31 ROOKIE AWARD APRIL – MAY 2016

Grazia Italian Kitchen

A Personal noitcelfeRReflection on a Decade

By Gracie Cavnar, Recipe for Success founder & CEO

“I have an idea!” Around my house idea can be a four-letter word. Hearing me say this strikes fear in the hearts of my family and friends. Second only to “I can do that!”

Idea . . . Do. It was these two words that, 10 years ago, helped to launch Recipe for Success Foundation, our Houston-based non-profit organization dedicated to combating childhood obesity. I never planned to spend my retirement in a 60-hour-a-week unpaid job. I was thinking more along the lines of world travel or an apartment in Paris.

But when I began to understand the acute problem of childhood obesity and realized I was in a unique position to help, I just had to do something.

Through this journey, I have learned again and again that every powerful action starts with a flicker of an idea.

Grassroots movements that can mobilize thousands of teachers, parents, sponsors, politicians and activists – they all start with an idea that is followed with the determination to transform it into action. The power, after all, is in the follow-through.

Not really knowing how profoundly

it would impact our lives, my husband Bob and I funded the start-up of Recipe for Success Foundation in 2005 after I had already spent years writing about the obesity problem. This was not a years-long passion come to life; it was a response to facts on the ground. After all, I had retired from a lifelong career in my own business to slow down, enjoy the roses and follow my bliss – that is, to write. I happily turned out regular feature stories and even a regular monthly column about the good things in life, art, architecture, food, interesting people. I was having a ball. But I tripped across the looming childhood obesity epidemic while I was working on a story about vending machines in schools. And it stopped me dead in my tracks.

I have the kind of personality that has no medium setting. I’m either full speed ahead, or switched off completely – no halfway measures for me. I also have this belief that any of us can do anything we set our minds to. I decided that something had to be done to get kids back in touch with their food.

But I couldn’t stop at just one good 32 APRIL – MAY 2016

idea; I had to move forward on multiple fronts at once, intent on executing all my good ideas. Hurricane Gracie, my husband calls me – I hope with affection.

That meant that after I recruited two dozen Houston chefs to help create and test a program to teach nutrition in school by turning on kids’ taste buds, inspiring them in the garden and empowering them with life skills through hands-on cooking classes, I couldn’t stop at working with just the six Houston schools we started in. I committed to take our program to national scale.

Ten years later we have changed the perspective of 30,000 Houston kids and thousands more in schools – from Petaluma, California, to Washington, DC, and from Vermont to South Texas – that have now adopted our Seed-toPlate Nutrition Education™ curriculum.

That meant that because I said I was going to publish children’s books, I spent three years researching, writing and creating Eat It! Food Adventures with Marco Polo (with illustrations by Anni Matsick), which went on to win a dozen

publishing awards in categories from children’s picture books to children’s literature to cookbooks. And now I’m working on the sequel, plus a commemorative cookbook saluting 20 of our founding chefs.

That meant that, three years ago, when we realized we had to get the whole city – not just the kids – thinking about what they eat we hatched a wild idea to create a VegOut! 30 Ways in 30 Days Challenge that takes place every March. Since 2013 we’ve had thousands of folks in 32 states focused on expanding their veggie repertoire during National Nutrition Month, and in 2016 we will have taken that call to action even further – to every state in the country.

That meant that because 10 years ago, I thought it would be a good idea to have a truck deliver produce into neighborhoods that didn’t have good access to grocery stores, we now have our Rolling Green Market. The truck is rolling out to do just what it sounds like: delivering directly to families marooned in Houston’s food deserts and working with area clinics to connect their patients with fresh produce and teach them how to use it.

And because I’ve been talking for a decade about the importance of growing affordable produce inside the city, we are breaking ground on seven and a half acres for our Hope Farms in Sunnyside, where we will train military veterans to become market growers plus give better access to fresh produce to our neighbors.

This spring, to celebrate our decade of Recipe for Success Foundation, I

wanted to do not just one party for generous funders (although that is critical to our financial health). I wanted to create something for everyone. The result: We will have three Delicious Alchemy parties in May ranging from The Banquet (an exquisite dinner for just 100) to The Art of Food (a celebration of all the senses with

To learn more about Recipe for Success, visit recipe4success.org. tastings, art, literature, music and performances saluting the culture of shared meals) to the Community Supper (which will gather families for a Sunday afternoon of casual fun and delicious comfort food).

Ideas. I’m full of them. I still have this crazy idea that if we can successfully get people (especially the next generation) connected to their food, where it comes from and how it’s made; that if we can inspire them to regularly prepare and share food in communal settings with their family and friends; that if we demystify cooking and de-stigmatize pleasurable food; that if we inspire folks to make mindful eating decisions; that if we make healthy eating fun and delicious, then we will be able to turn the current fast food culture on its head.

Ideas for new methods to promote 33 APRIL – MAY 2016

PHOTOS COURTESY OF RECIPE FOR SUCCESS

this vision still wake me up in the middle of the night and power me through long days of managing what has become a large and impactful organization. Now that I have checked all the boxes I started with 10 years ago, folks are asking me, “What’s ahead for the next decade?” Bob just looks to heaven and sighs as I answer, “I have this idea!”

Supermarket

SMACKDOWN Text and photos by Phaedra Cook

Back in 2003 when we first surveyed the city’s grocery stores, Houston’s “fancy” chain supermarkets – i.e.

Randalls Flagship and Signature Kroger locations – were already feeling the scorching heat of competition from HEB’s big new Central Market, which had opened on Westheimer inside The Loop two years earlier.

At the time, five Rice Epicurean Markets were thriving – one was directly

across the street from Central Market – selling apples the size of cantaloupes to the city’s bluestocking shoppers (or their housekeepers). The scattering of Whole Foods catered, mostly, to health nuts.

Trader Joe’s was a West Coast legend, generally unknown in these parts.

But times have changed. Today there is just one Rice Epicurean Market. (See our sidebar to find out why.) Central Market has been around long enough

how have grocery stores and supermarkets changed in the last 13 years?

34 APRIL – MAY 2016

that we actually take its seemingly infinite selection of cheese, produce, meats and seafood for granted. Whole Foods has developed more defined quality standards for its products, become an industry leader nationally and added several new locations across Houston, even while it’s developed more offerings with mass appeal. (Heck, they even sell Christmas trees during the holidays at some locations.)

readers share their favorite grocery stores on page 39.

Although there is still no second Central Market store in the Houston area, HEB’s luscious “Market” stores have incorporated some of Central Market’s most appealing elements to become one of the city’s most popular grocery chains.

Fiesta, which could have been great, seems content today to remain a second-tier shopping destination. Its grand experiment on the Gulf Freeway with the wall of live produce eventually failed, much to the dismay of its awed fans. The location on Shepherd at 24th Street is scheduled to close, and the location on the Katy Freeway at Blalock has since become the pan-Asian 99 Ranch Market. Even the location on Dunlavy – beloved for its wine selection and playlist and reviled for its crummy produce – has been torn down and is now a luxury apartment complex.

Indeed, while Fiesta is still known for its selection of international ingredients, HEB’s Mi Tienda concept, which first opened in 2006 in Houston, has stolen much of Fiesta’s suerte.

Hong Kong Market, set in the city’s China Town, remains mighty impressive and unto itself. A visit here is an excursion. Depending on your family and grocery-shopping background, you may feel like a tourist in our own city.

Trader Joe’s, which has some of the town’s most interesting selections of frozen and prepared foods, is the

antithesis of the HEB Market stores.

They don’t seem to have any ambition about putting the “super” into supermarket; they remain small, highly curated and well priced.

Randalls and Kroger still have many positive qualities (see our chart comparing stores surveyed in 2003 versus 2016), but they’re more reliable than exciting these days. It is HEB and Whole Foods that now operate the most interesting stores. Each has done an excellent job of tracking trends – and even setting a few of their own.

Our last grocery store survey was in 2003, the year that LinkedIn and the iTunes store both launched. My Space was still the hot social network; Facebook wouldn’t be available until the following year, and no one had even conceived of Instagram. Blackberry devices offered the best in mobile device technology, as the first iPhone wouldn’t be released until 2007.

Americans were already plugging into the Internet, but we weren’t dealing with as much information overload or anxiety about “missing out” as we are today. Now there are constant digital demands for our attention, and we all seem busy all day long.

HEB and Whole Foods have both responded to our interests and busierthan-ever schedules, building stores in Houston’s wealthiest suburbs and densest shopping areas. In recent years

35 APRIL – MAY 2016

Whole Foods opened stores in Montrose, Champions, The Galleria area, Tanglewood and The Woodlands.

For its part, HEB opened new stores in Briar Grove, Montrose and Bunker Hill, as well as in Magnolia, Texas City and Clear Lake, among others.

Both have developed on-trend dining and drinking features, such as the “create-your-own” ramen bar at the Whole Foods that opened last year at 1407 South Voss.

Meanwhile, the new HEB on San Felipe at Fountainview developed an entire in-store restaurant, Table 57, which was created with consultation from celebrity chef Randy Evans.

Soon to come: HEB corner stores – micro-HEBs if you will.

In response to the expanding craft beer market, all the newer Whole Foods stores have craft beer bars and offer growler fills. The location in BLVD Place at 1700 Post Oak even has a “beer bike” that serves up a pint to visitors as they’re shopping.

What’s next? With Amazon Prime, Instacart and Favor offering delivery of a limited selection of groceries in minutes, the next new offerings will be not about variety, but convenience. Expanding on that trend, services such as personal shopping, curbside pick-up, valet parking and grocery delivery are currently running in test markets, such as Whole Foods and HEB.

MILES OF AISLES grocery store

Central Market

3815 Westheimer 713-386-1700 revisited 2/18/16

Fiesta

6200 Bellaire 713-270-5889 revisited 2/19/16

Hong Kong food Market

11205 Bellaire 281-575-7886 revisited 2/19/16

Kroger Signature

5150 Buffalo Speedway 713-661-8305 revisited 2/19/16 Randalls Flagship

3131 W. Holcombe 713-349-2150 revisited 2/19/16

Think grocery store prices have spiked over the past 13 years? We did, too, until we took a notebook, recorded prices and compared them to our 2003 notes.

WHOLE CHICKEN

SALMON FILETS

2003: $1.99/lb (butcher case); prepackaged $0.99/lb.

2016: $2.39/lb (butcher case); prepackaged $1.59/lb.

$6.99/lb. (farm-raised, center-cut Atlantic; no change)

$0.99/lb. (no change)

2003:

house brand $1.19/lb.

2016: house brand $1.59/lb.

$0.99/lb. (no change)

2003: 2016:

$1.29/lb. $1.49/lb.

(On sale during visit for $0.59/lb.)

2003: 2016:

$4.69/lb. $4.99/lb.

(no pre-cut filets found) 2016: $6.99/lb. at fresh seafood counter

YELLOW ONIONS

2003: 2016:

$0.69/lb. $0.68/lb.

2003: 2 lbs./$1 2016: $0.69 per

pound

ROMAINE LETTUCE

2003: 2016:

2003: 2016:

$1.49 each $1.58 each

$0.99 each $1.49 each

2003:

$6.99/lb.(no change)

2003: $7.99/lb 2016: $8.99/lb.

(Only $4.50/lb. on sale and frozen wild caught just $5)

$0.39/lb. (no change)

2003: 2016:

2003: 2016:

$0.99/lb. $0.69/lb.

$0.99/lb. $1.29/lb.

2003: 2016:

2003: 2016:

2003: 2016:

$1.19 each $1.29 each

$1.49 each $0.99 each

$0.99 each $2.49 each

SKIM MILK

CHEESE SELECTION

2003: $2.99/gal 2016: $2.29/

The most extensive in Houston, with more than 600 varieties

gal H-E-B brand; $5.48 Central Market brand

2003: 2016:

$2.89/gal $2.79/gal

Asian markets aren’t great places to buy milk. None found.

2003:

2 for $4 (on special) 2016: $1.99 (with Kroger card)

2003: 2016:

$3.09/gal $2.18/gal

Trader Joe’s

2922 S. Shepherd 713-526-4034 visited 2/18/16 no Houston locations in 2003

Whole Foods

2955 Kirby 713-520-1937 revisited 2/18/16

Amazon PrimeNow

Delivery via app checked 2/19/16

$1.29/lb.

2003: Whole Foods Natural $1.99/lb.

2016: Whole Foods Natural $2.29/lb.

N/A

$7.99/lb. (frozen wild-caught Keta)

$8.99/lb. (wild) 2016: $10/lb (2 lb. bag wild frozen)

.59 each (not sold by pound); 2 lb. bag $2.79

$1.99 (bag of three hearts)

$2.19/gal

2003:

$9.96 (10 oz. frozen wild)

$1.69/lb. (no change)

$0.76 36 (white; no yellow APRIL – MAY 2016 available)

2003: 2016:

$1.99 each $2.49 each

$3.34 (three hearts)

Good overall; generous selection of Mexican cheeses and crema No cheese selection to speak of; countless varieties of tofu, however Boar’s Head dominates; computerized deli-order kiosk is cool.

Selection is ordinary and mostly American; display is bright and clean.

Small section but good quality in refrigerator area.

$2.99/gal $3.79/gal

About 350 varieties. Many are organic, and all are preservative-free.

$6.99 (organic)

PrimeNow’s selection is extremely limited on all fresh grocery items.

2003: 2016:

“The fun of Fiesta is how quirky is it. Elote cart and dress shop outside; Western-wear store inside.”

BAKERY

WINE

ENTRANCE

PREPARED FOODS

CHECK-OUT LANES

SUMMARY

90 kinds of bread, from Irish soda bread to freshmade tortillas, plus 50 varieties of European pastries.

Excellent selection but there seems to be less passion driving selection than there used to be

Little has changed with the store layout since 2003. Two entrances; far left enters by concierge counter and produce; far right by deli and cooking school.

Central Market still offers quality salads, entrees and full meals. Since 2003, fresh sushi, espresso and sandwich counters have been added, too.

Since 2003, a tworegister checkout was added by the deli as well as five more express registers near the main checkout area. It brings the total checkouts from 19 to 27.

This is not the place for detergent, paper goods, pet food, etc. Central Market is about edibles. Fabulous flower department. Shop on weekdays as its so crowded on weekends that it can be nightmarish.

Famous for its cooking school.

Many wholegrain breads & Hispanic sweets.

Wonderful freshbaked bolillos, baguettes.

Very limited selection. This isn’t the place to buy serious wine.

The fun of Fiesta is how quirky is it. Elote cart and dress shop outside; Western-wear store inside. Mexican-style barbecued meats on the weekend.

Awesome hot deli counter sells pupusas, chimichangas, chile relleno and more.

18 checkout lanes plus four express checkouts.

Beautiful produce and an amazing selection of dried peppers, spices and international foods hardly found anywhere else in town.

Prepackaged sweet snacks and even a selection of dim sum treats (e.g. pork buns, sesame buns)

Many kinds of plum wine, Chinese rice wine, sake, plus inexpensive western varieties

Enter from the mall into a large array of blooming plants and lucky bamboo. Cases display rice bowl sets for sale.

Check out the array of prepared meats like Peking duck and roast pork. Lots of interesting Asian snacks, too, like nori crackers and green tea Kit Kats.

20, including 2 express; checks accepted for amount of purchase only.

Visitor quote: “This is a grocery store? It looks like an airport!” Huge store in a mall that features Vietnamese restaurants, bubble tea houses, clothing stores and more.

Fairly average collection

Starbucks kiosk and “Party Central” counter for purchasing helium balloons are great features. Convenient upstairs dining room.

Plenty of prepared meals. Hot meal counter features oven brisket, fried chicken and sides.

16, including 1 express and 6 self-serve lanes; quick check-out

Of all the stores in our survey, Kroger had almost zero increase (and some decreases) in prices since 2003.

There are great deals here.

Features artisanal breads, including surprisingly good baguettes

Average selection

Nice area for relaxation across from Starbucks counter. Grab-and-go case near front featured a sub sandwich for $5.

Sandwich-to-order counter as well as a hot deli counter.

10, including 3 express; often short lines

Go here for the meat specials, not the produce (higher than anywhere else). Incredible sales with a Randalls card on chicken and family packs of meat.

Limited selection of baked goods but the basics are here.

Excellent values here, but know that there’s more than just “Two Buck Chuck.”

Exterior entrance bedecked with moviestyle posters (this was once a movie theater) with featured products; otherwise entrance is fairly ho-hum.

No hot counter; limited grab-and-go salads and sushi rolls in refrigerator section.

8 checkout lanes, no self-checkout.

Friendly cashiers often come to fetch customers’ carts.

This is a store to visit for deals, not staples. Fans love the eclectic selections in the frozen food cases. There are no frills, such as a coffee bar or cut-to-order deli meats. Mostly house brands.

More than 45 fresh-baked items, plus many special-needs (e.g. gluten-free) items; Lots of vegan bread.

Wide variety of international wines at good prices, as well as organic wines with no sulfates

Fresh herbs and plants outside; inside, a “farmer’s market” feel with lovely produce in the entryway

Nice selection of prepared foods-to-go (or foods to heat and eat in the dining area); try the bento boxes or fresh-baked pizza.

7 regular, plus 6 express

Since 2003, Whole Foods has rapidly added more stores with features like craft beer bars, taco counters, aged meats and more. This is now one of their older store locations.

Incredibly convenient as groceries are delivered right to your door.

Prices are high (and so is the convenience factor).

Amazon PrimeNow customer service is always excellent and will often issue a refund if there’s a delivery error or defective product. Exchanges not available.

Surprise: features freshtortilla booth

N/A

N/A

N/A

37

N/A

APRIL – MAY 2016

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What Happened To

Rice Epicurean?

Thirteen years ago there were five Rice Epicurean stores in Houston. The upscale homegrown chain was admired for its curated selection of specialty products, line of See’s Candies, wine selection and amazing sales on outstanding cuts of meat. Small Texas food producers knew that if they had any chance at all at getting into a grocery chain, it was with REM, which practiced “buy local” before it became commonplace. Singletons made a point of shopping at Rice Epicurean in order to meet other singletons. The chain even published its own newsletter.

That all changed in 2012 when the company announced that four of its stores would be closed and the spaces leased to The Fresh Market, a specialty grocer out of North Carolina.

Today, there is just one Rice Epicurean left, located at 2020 Fountainview. We asked Scott Silverman, vice president in charge of food and beverage, why the company chose to close all the other locations.

“We’ve always been in the real estate business, even though of course we are known for our grocery business, too,” says Silverman, referring to Rice Properties, Inc. “We own and manage several strip centers throughout Houston, from the north side to the southwest side. We always have, and many of those centers were anchored by a Rice Epicurean. When we sold our four stores, it was really a real estate play for us. We could realize a better return on the real estate side, so that’s why we did it. The time was right.”

Indeed, the Levy family (which Silverman is a member of by way of marriage) has had a knack for buying property in highly desirable, affluent areas of town that ultimately develop high real estate values.

That said, Silverman is proud of the grocery selection at the remaining Fountainview store. “Because we only have the one store now, we are very selective about the products we carry. If we only have one kind of marmalade, it’s the one we think is best on the market.” The store still carries a big line of See’s Candies and a broad range of Stonewall Kitchen products. (Most other stores carry only a few of the highly regarded high-priced jams, syrups, mustards and dressings.)

Silverman also notes that many of the long-term employees from the now-shuttered Rice Epicurean Markets were absorbed by the Fountainview store.

There are two other aspects of Rice Epicurean’s business – catering and grocery-delivery service. The company is often the caterer of choice, says Silverman, for prestigious events, such as Sylvester Turner’s recent mayoral inauguration. He expects to cater many parties during Super Bowl LI in 2017.

Rice Epicurean Market grocery-delivery vans remain a common sight in many residential and downtown zip codes. Check the Rice Epicurean website to order online. The minimum order is $50, and the delivery fee for most areas is $9.95. Downtown delivery costs $15 and there’s a stair/elevator fee of $5. – Phaedra Cook

38 APRIL – MAY 2016

where readers like to shop Whether it is organic produce, an extensive selection of bulk goods, hard-to-find international ingredients, an extensive selection of seafood or cut-to-order meat, every grocery store has some specialties. We asked My Table readers to name their favorite grocery stores and tell us what kind of items have earned their loyalty.

CENTRAL HOUSTON CENTRAL MARKET, 3815 WESTHEIMER

Recommended by bartender Chelsy Magee of State of Grace, attorney Leslie Hassen, food writer Ellie Sharp and reader Ann Gladstone Specialties Seafood, blueberry sausage links, produce, fresh-baked bread, eggs, deli/ cured meats, Texas-made items, olives, dips, crackers, cheeses (more than 600 kinds!), wine, beer, Champagne, pastries and lots of prepared food to-go. Offers regular food events and cooking classes.

KROGER MERCHANT’S PARK, 1035 N. SHEPHERD

Recommended by reader Maureen Hall Specialties Wine, sale prices on meats, housemade guacamole, smoked salmon PHOENICIA SPECIALTY FOODS, 1001 AUSTIN

Recommended by My Table contributor/ Houston Press restaurant critic Nick Hall and Carla Gomez of Lopez Negrete Communications Specialties Beer, wine, to-go meals, pasta, meat, seafood, fresh pita, olive oil, cheese, lamb, chocolate and yogurt HEB MONTROSE, 1701 W. ALABAMA

Recommended by Emily Reynolds Raymond of Katz Coffee Specialties Produce, Texas honey and coffee, wine selection, in-house baked goods and excellent customer service FIESTA MART, 4200 SAN JACINTO

Recommended by bartender Lindsay Howard of Lei Low and Shiloh Club Specialties Internationals foods and tea WHOLE FOODS MARKET, 701 WAUGH

Recommended by Kim Willis, insurance manager Specialties Vegan cheeses, bulk ingredients, a wide variety of mushrooms, lots of meat substitutes like Field Roast, Upton’s Naturals, etc., baked goods and fresh-baked pizzas TRADER JOE’S, 2922 S. SHEPHERD

Recommended by My Table editor/publisher Teresa Byrne-Dodge Specialties Columbus dry-aged salame (with fiore coating), smoked fish, Panda-brand licorice, cut flowers and orchids

west HOUSTON HEB, 11815 WESTHEIMER

Recommended by food blogger HankOnFood Specialties Produce, baked goods, craft beer and wine PHOENICIA SPECIALTY FOODS, 12141 WESTHEIMER

north HOUSTON COSTCO, 12405 NORTH GESSNER

Recommended by reader Bob Frasier Specialties Vacuum-packed rotisserie chicken breast, Hatch chiles in glass jars, Better Than Bouillon bases and quality meats

Recommended by realtor Cameron Ansari Specialties Canned beans, canned pickles, olive bar, dates, pistachios, Persian herbs and feta cheese

FIESTA MART, 8320 FM 1960

RANCH 99 MARKET, 1005 BLALOCK

10919 LOUETTA

Recommended by Felix Florez of Black Hill Meats Specialties Seafood, hard-to-find cuts of meat, vinegars, kimchi, freshly-prepared Asian foods, gochujang and other Asian sauces

TRADER JOE’S, 1440 SOUTH VOSS

Recommended by Houston Press food columnist Alexandra Doyle, realtor Ronnie Flagiello and beverage consultant Cheryl Gibbs Specialties Gourmet salts, frozen meals, cheese, ice cream, healthful snacks (such as sprouted quinoa blue tortilla chips and Inner Peas dried vegetables), Greek yogurt, sweet treats (including cookie butters and toffee), French mustard, olive oils, Belgian chocolates, collard greens, wood charcoal and seasonal goods

southwest HOUSTON HONG KONG SUPERMARKET, 11205 BELLAIRE

Recommended by Terry Wong of Blood Bros. BBQ Specialties Specialty dried meats and international foods, especially Vietnamese ingredients MY HOA, 13201 BELLAIRE BLVD.

Recommended by reader Brandon Cook Specialties Beef necks and bones; various sauces (such as black bean 39 cooking implements, paste), specialty A P R I L – MAY 2 016 unusual fish and preserved eggs

Recommended by reader Debbie Bryant Specialties Chocolate HEB VINTAGE PARK,

Recommended by My Table contributor/Houston Press restaurant critic Phaedra Cook, Cliff Evans of Bernie’s Backyard/ Black Garlic food truck and reader David Bowling Specialties Meats, produce, craft beer growler selection, Hatch peppers (seasonal), pre-cut seasoned chicken quarters and flavored lemonades KROGER MARKETPLACE, 9703 BARKER CYPRESS

Recommended by chef Brandy Chunn Graesser and Janet Huey of Pet Stuff Resale Specialties Craft beer, wine, Murray’s Cheese counter, organic/ health food section, home goods, and smooth peanut butter

southeast HOUSTON HEB PASADENA, 6210 FAIRMONT

Recommended by pastry chef Jess Motter Specialties Cheese, seafood, meats, craft beer selection

As a restaurant critic for the Houston Press and a regular food writer for My Table magazine, Phaedra Cook finds herself eating other people’s cooking much more than her own but still loves a good grocery deal. As a near-native Houston, she’s old enough to remember asking “Trader Who?”

the viet-cajun crawfish RAWL

C

Text and photos by Mai Pham

how do you dig into this?

40 APRIL – MAY 2016

turn to page 44 for tips from an expert.

I

t would be hard to imagine the Houston food landscape today without the contributions made by its largest adoptive population, the Vietnamese. Indeed, any mention of Houston cuisine would be incomplete without acknowledging the ubiquity of phở restaurants and bánh mì shops all around town. The appearance of Vietnamese-esque, Vietnamese-inspired dishes on the menus of prominent chef-driven restaurants like Underbelly and Prohibition are further examples of how Vietnamese food has become so tightly interwoven into the very fabric of Houston food culture.

Nowhere is that more evident than in the emergence of the phenomenon known as Viet-Cajun cuisine, in which the Vietnamese took the Louisiana tradition of Cajun crawfish and modified it with spices and additional ingredients, the most prevalent of which is garlic butter. Though the genre has spread to other heavily populated Vietnamese areas around the country, its roots can be traced back to Houston circa 2006.

It was then that people started flocking to a little shop called Cajun Corner, which flourished in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina when local demand for crawfish increased. These days, walk into any Vietnamese-owned crawfish restaurant, and a variation of that garlic butter flavor will feature prominently on the menu.

What is Viet-Cajun crawfish? Simply put, it’s Cajun crawfish with an added boost of flavor. Some restaurants prepare a seasoning to toss the crawfish in after it’s been boiled in Cajun spices. Others boil the crawfish in the Cajun spices along with herbs and ingredients like lemongrass, orange and lemon. Each restaurant has its own proprietary recipe, so while they may taste similar, no two are exactly the same.

Where should you go for the best Viet-Cajun crawfish in Houston? That was the question guiding me as I researched this article, visiting each establishment profiled – seven total – within a three-week time frame so that I could make a fair comparison during the 2016 season currently underway.

CRAWFISH CAFE OWNER KIET DUONG

CRAWFISH CAFE GARLIC BUTTER

Crawfish Cafe

11209 Bellaire Blvd. at Boone Rd., 281-575-1746, crawfishcafe.com My crawfish journey started at Crawfish Cafe, located inside the Hong Kong City Mall IV, a bright and rather odd location just outside of Ocean Palace restaurant. The extremely clean space has several high-backed wooden booths, each large enough to accommodate parties of six to eight.

Individual tables and longer tables for groups are also available.

The menu here is typical of a Cajun seafood restaurant, the difference being that there are six official flavors on the menu: The Original Cajun, Kickin’ Cajun, Garlic Butter, Thai Basil, Lemon Pepper and The Mix (garlic butter and lemon pepper). You choose the seafood (crawfish, blue crabs, shrimp, etc), the flavor and the spice level (ranging from mild to extra spicy). You’ll receive your order in a plastic bag.

Owner Kiet Duong didn’t know much about crawfish when he started, he admits. He had a friend who helped him develop the recipes and says that a lot of experimentation was involved. Kickin’ Cajun is the newest flavor.

THE GARLIC BUTTER SAUCE

You’ll love Crawfish Cafe if you like a sweeter crawfish flavor.

The Garlic Butter and the Garlic Butter/Thai Basil mix are insanely delicious. For those who want less sweetness, the Cajun or Kickin’ Cajun 41 flavors are the most savory. Crawfish Cafe is BYOB for beer, and the craw– Mfish AY 20 1 6 up at $7.99/pound for all flavors. Dipping sauces, bibs and gloves ring are included in the price.

THE VERDICT

APRIL

Cajun Kitchen

GARLIC BUTTER

THE KITCHEN SPECIAL

6938 Wilcrest at Bellaire Blvd., 281-495-8881, cajunkitchenhouston.com This cute little shop sits in the middle of a non-descript strip mall on Wilcrest. Proprietor John Nguyen purchased the shop in 2013, and since then the accolades have been rolling in. Chronicle restaurant writer Alison Cook named it one of Houston’s Top 100 Restaurants three years running. Cajun Kitchen was featured in Season 3 of the PBS hit series The Mind of a Chef, then more recently in Tom Sietsema’s Washington Post review of Houston as one of the best food cities in the country.

The crawfish come in four flavors: Cajun, Thai Basil, Garlic Blend and the restaurant’s claim to fame, their “The Kitchen Special.” Where other restaurants just toss the flavorings onto the crawfish before serving, Nguyen goes the extra step by tossing the boiled crawfish in a wok with a special blend of butter, garlic, green onion, orange and other ingredients. You can order spice levels from mild to the ultra-spicy “suicide,” so named because it combines cayenne with habanero.

The wok-tossed flavors are absolutely delicious, but the Kitchen Special is standout for its sublime blend of citrus, garlic and butter. Reminiscent of a French preparation of mussels, the sauce is the type that just begs to be soaked up by a piece of crusty bread. (Alas, bread is not currently on the menu here.) The Garlic Blend is wonderful as well and comes with copious amounts of raw chopped garlic on top. The Thai Basil is also excellent. In addition to the crawfish, Nguyen’s fish sauce wings and garlic noodles are stellar. Dipping sauces are included in the crawfish price, which is currently $8.99/pound. Beer and wine are available.

THE VERDICT

cajun KITCHEN

88 boiling

88 Boiling

GARLIC BUTTER

1910 Wilcrest at Briar Forest, 713-789-8288, facebook.com/88BoilingCrawfish/ This standalone crawfish shop looks like it used to be a Long John Silver’s. There’s a drive-thru window, and the interior offers bright, counter-style service with a big handwritten hanging chalkboard for a menu. What’s interesting about this place is that it is not, strictly speaking, “Viet-Cajun” in that the owners are Chinese. Another salient point? The handwritten menu advertises dishes such as “pad Thai” and Thai basil softshell crabs.

“My uncle used to own a Thai restaurant, and since he’s retired, he hangs out here and cooks,” says Kevin Vong, the manager, who served me a freshly brewed, extraordinarily good cup of Thai iced tea. On the crawfish front, there are four flavors: Garlic Butter, Lemon Pepper, Ragin’ Cajun and the 88 Special. Crawfish are $7.99/pound.

Of the four crawfish flavors I sampled, the Ragin’ Cajun made the most impression, with a bouillon-type base that imparted an extra savoriness to the crawfish. The other flavors were fine, but the crawfish were remarkably mixed in size. Patrons who want a fresh boil will like 88 Boiling, because they don’t cook the crawfish until you order. This yields fresh crawfish, but it takes longer to get your order. It also sacrifices flavor, which isn’t as strongly infused as it is at places where the crawfish are soaked in spices 42 first. If you’re craving crawfish and Thai food, this is your place.

THE VERDICT

APRIL – MAY 2016

Crawfish & Noodles

11360 Bellaire Blvd. at Boone Rd., 281-988-8098, crawfishandnoodles.com Prominently located on the front-facing end of a strip mall across from the Hong Kong City Mall IV is Crawfish & Noodles, owned by Trong Nguyen. Nguyen is one of the pioneers in the Viet-Cajun movement, and his restaurant is unique in that he serves fantastic, traditional Vietnamese food alongside Cajun dishes that have a Vietnamese spin. His Bò Tái Chanh (beef cooked in lemon), Mì Bò Kho (Vietnamese stew beef with egg noodle) and Cơm Bò Lúc Lắc (shaking beef cubes with rice) are some of the best you’ll find in Houston. His Cua Rang Muối (salt and pepper blue crabs) are also phenomenal.

Crawfish & Noodles landed on Alison Cook’s Top 100 list in 2013 and 2015 and got some major national TV love when it was profiled by Andrew Zimmern for Bizarre Foods on the Travel Channel.

On the crawfish front, Nguyen keeps things simple. There is only one flavor of crawfish, which is the garlic butter. All you need to do is specify the poundage and the spice level.

About halfway through my two pounds (most people eat three to five pounds per person), I started dragging each crawfish through the garlicbutter sludge at the bottom of the bowl to pick up as much of the sauce as possible.

Nguyen’s garlic butter is magnificent – a reason why he only has one flavor and has kept it consistent throughout the years. Another thing I noticed was that the crawfish were uniformly large. “Do you order from a special vendor to get them all the same size?” I asked my server. “No, we don’t,” he explained. “But all the crawfish that comes in gets sorted. The smaller crawfish get set aside for the crawfish fried rice.” With crawfish, size matters. These high-quality, pre-sorted, large crawfish run $9.99/pound, but are worth every penny. Beer and wine are available.

THE VERDICT

CRAWFISH & NOODLES’ GARLIC BUTTER

Tips on the Viet-Cajun Crawfish Experience Most of the flavor is in the sauce that pools in the bottom of the bowl. Periodically toss or tip the crawfish bowl to evenly distribute the flavor.

Make your own dipping sauce.

At some restaurants, you will automatically get a basket that includes mayonnaise, ketchup and butter. Other restaurants will have these condiments on a counter for you to fetch yourself. Make your own sauce by blending the ingredients, adding lemon and Cajun spices until it suits your palate.

Many of these restaurants are BYOB, so you just might be able to bring a bottle of wine or six-pack of beer to enjoy.

Call or check online first to be sure.

Don’t be afraid to veer off the crawfish menu to try other menu items, such as chicken wings, oysters, gumbo or other seafood.

Crawfish season is at its peak locally between January and April, when the restaurants serve live crawfish from Louisiana. Most restaurants serve crawfish year round, however, with some closing shop for a few weeks around the October time frame.

During off-season, some establishments will source their crawfish live from California, but it’s more typically frozen.

43 A A PP RR II LL –– M MA AY Y 2 20 01 16 6

How do you eat Viet-Cajun crawfish?

“All the flavor is in the body,” says Lee Ngo, owner of Wild Cajun Crawfish, who gave me a tutorial on how best to eat a bowl of crawfish. “If you don’t suck the body, you’re missing out on the full effect of the flavor,” he says.

Pick up a single crawfish and suck off the flavor coating the shell.

STEP 1

and snap apart the body from the tail. Suck juices from the body of the crawfish. Discard this section.

Hank’s Crawfish

4409 Hwy. 6 North at Clay Road, 281-656-8923, hankscrawfish.com Scott Vu has been doing crawfish since the mid-1980s, when he helped his mentor run a crawfish business in Louisiana. He opened Hank’s Crawfish as an homage to his mentor, with a mission to re-create the typical Louisiana Cajun experience for Houstonians.

Even before you enter the building, a mural painted on the building’s exterior illustrates a street scene in New Orleans. Zydeco music blares from the loudspeakers, and New Orleans-themed decor gives Hank’s a sense of place.

Everything here is delicious, from the po’boys to the gumbo and, of course, the crawfish, which are done in a traditional Cajun-style boil or with garlic butter added.

One of the specialties here is the “BYOB” or Build-Your-Own-Boil, which is an absolute steal. For $29.99, you can choose one pound each of three types of seafood and specify the seasoning and spice level. We ordered a BYOB with jumbo shrimp, blue crabs and crawfish and added an order of king crab to create a terrific mix of obviously fresh seafood. The crawfish were uniformly sized and well-infused with flavor, so that a dipping sauce was not necessary. Beware of the spice level here, which is strong and lingering. The fifth spice level, “New Orleans Spicy,” is so hot that you have to order at your own risk because it’s non-refundable.

THE VERDICT

STEP 2 Twist

HANK’S CRAWFISH BUILD-YOUR-OWN-BOIL

With the tail in hand, peel away the first rung of the shell (as you might a shrimp), then pinch the bottom of the tail to release the tail meat while removing the vein from the tail at the same time.

STEP 3

Dip the tail meat into your own custom-made dipping sauce.

STEP 4

STEP 5

Repeat.

* Put off your manicure until tomorrow, ladies. This is a messy business.

44 APRIL – MAY 2016

LA Crawfish

1005 Blalock at I-10, 713-461-8808, thelacrawfish.com LA Crawfish did two smart things when it opened in the Ranch 99 supermarket: It stayed away from the strong competition around the Bellaire Boulevard area and decided to employ a streamlined, counter-service model that’s basically self-serve. Since it opened shop in the Ranch 99 grocery store in 2011, LA Crawfish has received a lot of media attention and has gone to a franchise model. There are nine LA Crawfish in the Houston, San Antonio and Austin areas, with more coming in other states. The restaurant offers many Asian-fusion dishes, including a crawfish phở, has happy hour discounts and is very family friendly.

Based on the single visit that I made, this was, unfortunately, the least impressive of all the crawfish places I visited, ostensibly because it’s gone to a franchise model and is having some trouble maintaining quality. The crawfish I received were overcooked, the sizes were extremely variable and small. It did not seem like they were well purged. Of three flavors — garlic butter, Cajun, and hot and sour — the Cajun was the tastiest. Give this place a try if you want to try some Asian-fusion mashups and if you’re on a budget. Crawfish were the least expensive of all the places we tried, running $6.99/ pound, and include all the sauces/condiments you can serve yourself. It’s also BYOB. THE VERDICT

LA CRAWFISH COUNTER

HOT AND SOUR

Wild Cajun

6533 Wilcrest at Bellaire Blvd., 832-328-4000, wildcajunrestaurant.com Lee Ngo’s family had been in the restaurant business for years before opening Wild Cajun. Banh Mi Ba Le, Tan Do and Seafood Express are just some of the restaurants they owned before opening this popular shop on Wilcrest slightly north of Bellaire. Now with three locations, the family-owned business, which epitomizes the Viet-Cajun phenomenon, is as popular as ever.

On the crawfish front, you can order three flavors: Garlic Butter, Cajun or the “Wild Cajun.” In addition to the crawfish, you can order from a bevy of Vietnamese appetizers such as their truly memorable cua rang me (tamarind crab). Sushi, fried rice and other Cajun-style seafood dishes round out the menu.

The Wild Cajun flavor is unique here, in that it is completely different than what you’ll find elsewhere. A mix of garlic, onions and Asian spices, the preparation reminded me of a specialty Cantonese lobster dish. The garlic butter flavor here is less buttery than elsewhere, and purposely so, according to Ngo, who says, “We want our flavors to be just right. When there’s too much butter, the first few bites taste good, but then it can become too much.” Crawfish are $6.99/ pound for the Garlic Butter and Cajun flavors, and $7.99 for the Wild Cajun.

LA CRAWFISH

THE VERDICT

Mai Pham is a Houston-based freelance food and travel writer who proudly ingested upwards of 25 pounds of crawfish to research this article. Follow Mai @femme_foodie on Twitter, Instagram and Snapchat for delicious finds around Houston and wherever her 45 travels take her.

APRIL – MAY 2016

THE WILD CAJUN FLAVOR

GARLIC BUTTER

WILD CAJUN

and now...

ANOTHER MESSAGE from

(GRUMPY OLD DINER)

by Eric Gerber Illustration by Devyn Park

46 APRIL – MAY 2016

Back?

Usually, when you hear the first mention of the word “back” from people of a certain age – which is to say “old” – it’s time to beat a hasty retreat to the nearest exit. Otherwise, there’s a good chance you’re going to be subjected to a long discourse about slipped disks, dowager humps and sciatica.

(Why, it’s like a pepper-soaked razor running down my lower spine!)

But, in this case, you’re safe. The “back” in question is mine … as in “I’ll be ….”

And so I am, the Grumpy Old Diner (aka GOD) is back by unpopular demand, with another parade of acrimonious observations about contemporary culinary culture that are really no more than the literary equivalent of disgusting throat-clearing noises and that scrunched-up face everybody makes when they smell cabbage cooking. Actually, maybe you would be better off hearing about the sciatica. (I swear, it’s like somebody was shooting molten boiling lasers into both legs!)

For those who missed the initial article, please allow me to summarize: lot of bad craziness going on in the restaurant business, so somebody needs to say something, and what I said was Ack! It is, of course, a proven scientific fact that restaurants have been going downhill ever since Trader Vic’s shut down in the 1980s, leaving countless Houstonians forlorn and searching desperately for a decent pupu platter. Today, those of us who had the distinct honor of dining at such landmarks as Los

Troncos (where Continental dining reached new heights by lodging tables among giant tree branches!), Red Lion, Joe Matranga’s, Kaphan’s and Bill Bennett’s Grill now watch the parade pass by, trying to adjust to waiters and waitresses becoming “servers” and being asked what kind of water we prefer (wet?).

We brace ourselves against each new trend, hoping to stave off the almost-unavoidable brain hemorrhage that awaits us when confronted by the likes of vegan charcuterie and foraged anything.

Ah, such is the way of the world, it seems. As the French say, “The more things change, the more … I’d really like to kick somebody in the butt!” (loose translation). But who is to blame for all this culinary excess, outlandishness and what my grandmother (“Grammy Grumpy”) would call shenanigans?

Yes, we can round up the usual suspects – foodies, hipsters, millennials, chefs with way too many tattoos and those who think kale is edible – but isn’t the real villain here those who put up with all this? Isn’t it really you and me?

Hell, no! In fact, the more I think about it, I’m leaning more and more toward those chefs with all the tattoos.

And let’s not forget those weird bartenders obsessed with inventing “new” drinks whether they’re even remotely drinkable or not. I thought I had made it clear that this whole Craft Cocktail craziness was supposed to cease and desist forthwith, but apparently not everyone got the message.

I repeat: Put down the jigger of Vicks VapoRub, step away from the small-batch bourbon and no one has to get hurt!

What a Load of Craft Which of these 10 craft cocktails are “real” (used advisedly) and which are just (I hope to God) made up from my own troubled mind? a) Red Headed Slut (peach schnapps,

f) Chocolate-Blue Cheese Martini

cranberry juice and Jägermeister) b) Low Tide (vermouth, clam juice and vodka) c) Chemo Brain (tequila, Everclear and absinthe)

(gin, cacao, olive oil, blue cheese distillate)

g) A Sticky Mess (mescal, Red Bull

and Karo syrup)

h) Dirty Band-Aid (lemonade, olive

juice and gin)

d) Uncle Buddy’s Mustache

i) Barking Spider (tequila, rum and

e) Angry German (lime, blackberry

j) About Thyme (lemon juice, cantaloupe

(Galliano, vodka and buttermilk)

orange juice)

schnapps, amaretto, Jägermeister)

and herb-infused vodka)

ANSWERS: Real: a, b, e, f, i and j. Made up: c, d, g and h.

So, how did you do? If you got seven or more right, I don’t care. If you got three to six right, I still don’t care. And if you got two or fewer right, you are ugly and your mother dresses you funny. And I don’t care about that, either.

By the way, if you actually order any of these drinks – real or otherwise – you are part of the problem, not the solution and deserve whatever the bartender makes you.

47 APRIL – MAY 2016

Pronunciation Guide Frankly, it isn’t easy these days, is it, when we are faced with this constantly expanding cross-cultural culinary scene – so many kinds of exotic food to ignore, so many new flavors to avoid, so many bizarre words you’re not sure how to even pronounce so you can confidently ask, “What the good gosh-dang is a escamoles?!”

To help with those awkward moments, here’s a quick guide to some of the trendy and troublesome words: pho

Like “fuh.” No, that’s not it … more like “fyuh” … yes, but sort of like “fyHuh” but maybe with an “r” sound near the middle, but aspirate the second part. No, no, too much – now you’re just spitting on purpose.

HUITLACOCHE

There is no correct pronunciation for this.

BIBAMBAP

Bibbidi-Bobbidi-Boo

KOMBUCHA

Just too disgusting to even bother with. Forget it. Not for you. Really.

Okay, suit yourself, I’m just saying.

SRIRACHA

Purse your lips as if preparing to whistle then say “Ket-chup” very slowly and loudly as if your server is hearing impaired.

ENDIVE

“Lettuce”

FRISEE

“Lettuce”

RADICCHIO

“Lettuce”

CONFIT

To give this the classic French enunciation, don’t fully pronounce the second syllable … or the first.

DIM SUM

“Them some” – as in, “Them some funny-looking dumplings, huh?”

HARISSA

See Sriracha

KOELLIJETTA

This doesn’t exist. It was just made up to finish the list.

Serves You Right “Good evening and welcome to Chez What. I’m Giovanni and I’ll be your Service Sommelier.

What? Oh, that means I’ll help you select the appropriate servers for your meal this evening. Why, yes, it is new, and you wouldn’t believe all the comments we’ve been getting! And it’s only a 20 percent surcharge over your normal gratuity. So, I think Maria would be great to start you off with for the appetizers – she’s very attentive, perhaps a tad reserved, but I know you’ll be amused by her insouciance and vast knowledge of soups … then Robert would be good for the entrees – bold and assertive, clever comments about all the local sports teams, up to speed about tonight’s specials and able to bring out multiple plates with a minimum of effort – how’s that sound? And for desserts, coffee, combing the table for invisible crumbs then presenting the bill … mmm, well, I think Diego.

Fun but not frivolous, considerate without being obsequious. He has a special talent for boxing up your leftovers without making you feel boorish and common. Yes, he’ll do nicely! Shall we start?”

48 APRIL – MAY 2016

Ask Mr. Cuisine!

Yes, once again it’s time for another probing edition of Ask Mr. Cuisine!, the feature that answers things like, Why do some people say “cue-linary” while other people say “koo-linary” and who’s right and who’s wrong and is it okay to make fun of the ones who are mispronouncing it and, if so, how much fun?

Today’s questions:

Q. What is the difference between a sweet potato and a yam?

– Rob Stephens, Galena Park

A. What difference does it make, Rob? All that’s going on in the

world today, and that’s what you want to know?

Q. If breakfast is the most important meal of the day, why does dinner cost five times as much?

– Marissa Brandywine, West University

A. Now that’s a really good question, Marissa … not like that

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Q. I read somewhere that German chocolate cake has nothing to do with Germany. Can you confirm that?

D

self-absorbed sweet potato and yam silliness from Rob.

APP!

– G. W. Jenkins, Katy

A. Yes, I can confirm that you read that. Good for you, G.W.,

reading and all.

Q. I am able to make $1500 a week at home in my spare time addressing envelopes on my computer for medical billing companies.

– Jenny Garcia, The Woodlands

A. Originating in The Netherlands, stroopwafel is made with two

thin layers of baked, crunchy waffles and filled with caramel. Dutch locals eat this popular snack by resting it on the top of their coffee cups and letting the steam soften the waffle and melt the caramel inside.

JOIN US FOR AN EASY, DELICIOUS FOOD ADVENTURE designed to help you eat healthier and expand your repertoire of fresh produce. Use our mobile app and online veggie tracker to take the challenge in March.

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49 APRIL – MAY 2016

Listing Here, You The only thing food trendoids like to do more than go out to Hot New Restaurants (and avoid Cold Old Restaurants) is to read lists about What’s In and What’s Out right now (so they can avoid the horrible mistake of saying or doing something Out when they so desperately want to be In.) Well, worry no more! Here is yet another helpful list you can use to make sure that when it comes to the Food Scene, you’re kind of hip and kind of now (Charlie perfume ad, circa 1973). what’s in

Chewing Soup spoons Good food Food drones Potatoes Meat Water Frog a la peche Napkins in lap Omakese Anthony Bourdain

what’s out

Swallowing Soup forks Bad food Food trucks Rocks Wood Whatever the opposite of water is Peche a la frog Napkins on head All other Japanese words Anthony Bourdain

Recent Closings (That Didn’t Much Surprise Us) H O U S T O N ’ S

D I N I N G

M AG A Z I N E

MY TABLE verdant veggies during the dark season meatball roll call

• • • • • • •

The ‘Death to America’ Diner Sushi Burger!

Roy’s All You Better Eat Cafe Casa Mombasa Meat the Family, a Steakhouse Worms, an Early Bird Cafe Snakes & Ale

• Mangia Own Business, an Italian Eatery • Gristle & Spew – An Authentic Irish Pub • Bring Your Own Silverware Supper Club

pros on (knife) point experts talk tools of the trade pomegranates the jeweled fruit DISPLAY UNTIL JANUARY 28

ISSUE NO. 124 DEC 2014-JAN 2015

i DECEMBER 2014 – JANUARY 2015

$5.95 WWW.MY-TABLE.COM

SUBSCRIBE

NOW! 713-529-5500

www.my-table.com

Putting a Fork in It And so, we soldier on. One Grumpy Old Diner doing what he can to curse the darkness rather than light a single handcrafted, saffron-suffused artisanal beeswax candle. Do I think this second serving of observations from the Grumpy Old Diner (GOD) will really have any effect on the more precious and pretentious elements that keep creeping into the restaurant industry? Well, probably not.

But you know what they say. If you can’t beat them … enjoy saying whatever rude and mean-spirited things you want to. And if somebody asks, “So, who do you think you are – God?” I can just say, yeah, sort of.

Eric Gerber is a regular restaurant reviewer for My Table. See page 55.

50 APRIL – MAY 2016

Welcome to the largest Polo Club in the United States!

Did you know, Houston Polo Club has grown to be the largest Polo Club in the United States and the World, per playing members?

Houston Polo Club Accommodates Individuals and Events!

Sunday Polo at the Houston Polo Club is a terrific way to entertain! Your guests will be treated to a world class polo match in a unique outdoor setting. From private tents and umbrella tables to box seating in the Grandstand, your guests will have a gorgeous view and unforgettable experience.

Many of our Sunday spectators attend a match and leave with a desire for more. The Houston Polo Club invites you to learn the exciting sport of polo! Try a 2 hour clinic or join our 8 week polo school. No previous riding experience is necessary.

Visit thehoustonpoloclub.com/schedule for our polo schedule and tickets.

51 APRIL – MAY 2016

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rickey don’t lose that number The Perfect Three-Ingredient Fix for Houston Summer Drinking

By Nicholas L. Hall Photo by Becca Wright

52 APRIL – MAY 2016

As soon as spring weather rolls around and Houstonians take to their patios, my drinking turns its face toward the sun. Dark spirits are replaced by light ones, boozy and stirred gives way to light and long. Refreshment is the name of the game.

Of all the light and long drinks, my fair-weather favorite is the rickey. Not only is this classic combo of spirit, citrus and seltzer endlessly refreshing, it's also endlessly variable to suite your style.

From the classic gin version to a bittersweet charmer that pairs Campari with the herbal pull of rosemary (a personal favorite), there's a rickey for everyone.

They're easy, crowd-pleasing and perfect for Houston's sunny springs and sultry summers.

“Rickeys are refreshing and perfect for our weather since we have a good nine months of summer,” agrees Leslie Ross, Treadsack bar director and booze-brain behind the upcoming Canard, a new bar at 4721 N. Main. As Ross says, Houston’s drinking habits are shifting toward dryer cocktails, a better fit for our hot and sticky climate. As far as making a rickey, Ross has a couple of rules. “A rickey must contain a spirit, an acid and a sparkling component, with little to no added sweetness,” says Ross, who allows for plenty of flexibility within that general structure.

“To start, keep a selection of quality spirits in your home bar. Next, fresh whole citrus to keep within the letter of the law and even jams and marmalade to stay more within the spirit of the law. Then for the bubbles component, well-carbonated mineral waters like Topo Chico, Mountain Valley Spring Water and unsweetened carbonated water such as Le Croix work well.

Another option is Dry brand sodas that come in a variety of interesting flavors with very little sweetness. If you're wanting to be even more adventurous, try an IPA or hoppy Pilsner.”

Really, the drink is such an openended sketch of a cocktail that you can take it in pretty much any direction you feel like drinking, even riffing on existing favorites. “Think of a tequila rickey as a long, lean, sugarless margarita. Add rum and mint and you've got a dry

mojito, or maybe you prefer your vodka soda to be on the tart side,” says Ross.

Over at The Pass & Provisions, Stuart Humphries makes that tequila rickey that Leslie describes, but also finds room in the rickey to add a little sweetness.

He suggests Old Tom Gin, Demerara Rum and Port-finished Scotch as a great way to add an elegant hit of sugar to the svelte drink, making for what some may consider a more approachable cousin to the almost bracingly ascetic original.

Chris Frankel keeps his rickey simple at Midtown’s Spare Key, but agrees with Humphries that the drink can take a little sugar and still hit the spot. A classic model, Frankel’s gin rickey is kicked up with Old Tom Gin, a sweeter style than standard London Dry versions, in order to balance out the lime juice. The rickey is on Frankel’s 50 States menu, representing Washington DC. “There's kind of a cool story there because the DC district council actually made that the official drink of DC at the insistence of local cocktail bartenders. I don't think that exists in any other market,” says Frankel.

Alex Gregg splits the simplicity difference, noting that the rickey lends itself to lighter, un-aged spirits. Still, he says, “The rickey is such a basic template, you could make it work with anything.”

Gregg also notes the potential for intersection and overlap with other cocktail families, on account of the bare-bones nature of the drink. “The rickey is such a foundation for light and refreshing drinks, that nearly half of mixology is based on it. It’s like the twin of the old-fashioned that way.”

While Gregg agrees that the rickey is particularly well suited to a sort of casualness of process, especially for folks mixing them up at home, he also notes that it’s easy to start off making a rickey in spirit, eventually veering off toward something else entirely. “Sure, play with it and have fun. But if you do that, you're gonna get into some overlap real quick. Say we take a traditional gin rickey and add a little bit of sugar to round out all that acid, and then we sub lime for lemon. Suddenly we've invented the Tom Collins. Or let’s sub rum for gin and use a modifying liqueur

53 APRIL – MAY 2016

BASIC RICKEY Courtesy Leslie Ross, Treadsack

2 oz. spirit gin and bourbon being the most common

1/2 lime shell saved for garnish

sparkling mineral water

Add ice and spirit and squeeze the lime in a tall glass. Top with sparkling mineral water.

Garnish with lime shell.

METHOD:

tequila RICKEY

rosemary campari RICKEY

Courtesy Stuart Humphries, The Pass and Provisions

Recipe by Nicholas L. Hall

1½ oz. blanco tequila

1 lime, sliced thinly

1/2 lime

2 oz. Campari

shell saved for garnish

6 oz. Topo Chico

1 sprig rosemary Topo Chico In a tumbler or stemless wine glass, muddle the lime slices to release their juice and some citrus oils. Add the Campari. Fill glass with ice, top with Topo Chico and stir. Add rosemary sprig.

METHOD:

Combine tequila and lime juice in a rocks glass with a large ice cube. Top with Topo Chico. Garnish with lime shell.

METHOD:

like maraschino and split the acid with lime and grapefruit. Now we've made a sparkling Hemingway daiquiri. And on and on it goes.”

And yet that plug-and-play approach is one of the things that makes the rickey such an appealing cocktail for casual warm-weather drinking. No recipe to remember, very loose rules, pure refreshment. I’ve never measured a rickey, and if the mood strikes me, I’m very likely to add a float of this or that after I’ve made a basic model, subjecting the drink to my whims.

Steven Salazar of Wooster’s Garden takes a similarly whimsical approach, seeing the rickey as a great way to customize a drink to your personal preferences. “To add a personal touch, I would muddle herbs from my garden or even my favorite seasonal produce from the farmers’ market,” says Salazar, who also enjoys playing around with the sparkling component. “One of our

favorite ongoing projects at Wooster's Garden has been topping off our cocktails with our favorite beer from one of our 49 taps. This actually led to our previous fall menu of beer cocktails. I would add a stout to a Rickey to create a delicious flavor pairing common in France, which is citrus and chocolate. I would add a sour to enhance the zip of refreshing acidity. I would add an IPA to add a pleasant bitter and floral note that will balance well with the sugar and acid.”

While these approaches differ both in theory and in practice, that just goes to show how much room for interpretation the rickey offers. Muddle some herbs.

Add a bit of sugar, or keep things dry.

Swap Topo Chico out for Dry soda (the rhubarb and blood orange flavors are particularly nice) or pick a nice, bitter IPA to add a new twist. Even liqueurs are fair game, their strident sweetness pulled into line by acidic citrus and 54 APRIL – MAY 2016

smoothed out by effervescent mineral water (though this move may get you into trouble with the more hardline professionals), allowing their subtler nuances room to play. It’s like the world’s best adult soda.

So, as the mercury climbs, make sure you’ve got the basics down. Before you light the grill, cut a few limes in half.

Grab some tall glasses and some ice. Lay in some Topo Chico. Pick a spirit. It only takes a moment to make a rickey, or a bunch of rickeys, but they’ll refresh you all summer long.

Nicholas L. Hall is a husband and father who earns his keep playing a video game that controls the U.S. power grid. He also writes about food, booze and music, in an attempt to keep the demons at bay. When he’s not busy keeping your lights on, he can usually be found making various messes in the kitchen, with apologies to his wife.

LIME & ROSEMARY FROM BIGSTOCK.COM

reviews

saltair seafood kitchen ADDRESS

Alabama

3029 Kirby at West

TELEPHONE 713-521-3333 WEBSITE saltairhouston.com CUISINE Seafood, etc.

CREDIT CARDS All major HOURS Open 5-9 pm Sun., 5-10

pm Mon.-Thu., 5-10 pm Fri.-Sat; bar opens 4 pm daily.

RESERVATIONS Recommended NOISE LEVEL Can get intense

BY THE SEA

By William Albright I seldom do doggy bags. My standard excuse: I tend to forget the leftovers in my fridge so long that they grow a miniature rainforest of mold, so I resist bringing any home. The sad truth: I tend to eat everything set before me, so leftovers are rare.

But when I visited SaltAir Seafood Kitchen one night, I could eat only half of my fist-size beef filet ($34), and the highly supportive server boxed up the survivor and put it in a bag as deluxe as this outstanding new restaurant itself. The color scheme was black and white, just like the eatery’s décor. The sides were photos of dramatic ocean waves and a peaceful beach. And on the bottom of the bag, as if they were hiding their light under a bushel, the proprietors discreetly outlined their restaurant biz bona fides, listing in tiny type the names of their enterprises.

Named for co-owners chef Charles Clark and entrepreneur Grant Cooper, Clark Cooper Enterprises has its fingers in many food-related pies. The brick-and-mortar concepts are Ibiza Food & Wine Bar, Brasserie 19, Punk’s Simple Southern Food, The Dunlavy and Coppa Osteria (Their Coppa Ristorante Italiano on Washington Avenue closed in 2014.) Less grandly, they also operate the Mobile Mug food truck, a coffee shop on wheels. Opened in July with Clark Cooper mainstay

Brandi Key as the executive chef, SaltAir is definitely on the top end of that hierarchy.

It’s located in the strip center at Kirby and West Alabama (across the street from Whole Foods), in the corner spot formerly occupied by the Landry’sowned Pesce and subsequently by the short-lived Brio Tuscan Grille. (The Ohio-based Brio chain still has outlets in CityCentre and The Woodlands.)

Actual salt air would have to travel a long way to waft over customers here, but the elegant yet breezy atmosphere, not to mention the freshness of the locally and globally sourced seafood served, dispels any land-locked vibe.

The 9,000-square-foot space has been given a handsome California-style feel by Julie McGarr. A simulacrum of subdued lighting is created by rays filtered through spaced wooden planks on the ceiling. Also overhead are open-work wooden fixtures suggestive of fishing baskets. Tan tabletops and circular brown banquettes mediate the contrast of light (blonde wooden floors and chairs, the huge centrally located U-shaped bar’s blazingly white counter) and dark (black drapes, rugs and wall panels). The sea-themed accoutrements are few but ‘cherce.’ Most notable is a big hunk of coral in the main dining room that, from a distance, looks like broccoli.

As it happens, broccoli is not one of the 13 vegetables on the side-dish menu, an array of hot or cold items that could double as appetizers. I tried one hot one (an okay $7 bowl of sautéed bok choy allegedly spiked with ginger and sesame seeds) and two more-enjoyable cold ones. Even with a little puddle of frothy lemon foam alongside, a generous portion of chilled snow peas and almost foot-long haricots verts ($8) was as simple as could be, the former nice and crunchy and the latter almost as crisp as raw beans. A little more was involved in a creamy grilled avocado given a bright Mexican twist by a corn salad tweaked with lime and cilantro, some crumbled cotija cheese and decorative zigzags of crema ($9).

The two excellent soups on offer pose a difficult choice between hot and

55 APRIL – MAY 2016

Houston’s Speciality Wine Store Since 1984

2015 Bordeaux Futures

Shop online at houstonwines.com Orders delivered to your door

2646 S. Shepherd one block south of Westheimer

713-524-3397

www.houstonwines.com

cold. The chilled corn soup ($9) is spiked with grilled kernels and slivers of crabmeat and laced with crème fraiche. Even better was SaltAir’s take on lobster bisque ($10). Though cream is one of the ingredients, it is less unctuous than other versions but still wondrously rich and packed with seafood flavor, in part due to the lobster fritters floating on top and a splash of shellfish oil (I hope it’s a distant cousin of whale or cod liver oil).

Oyster slurpers will also be hard-put to pick favorites among the wide variety of bivalves available here, as will lovers of seafood-based ceviches, crudos, carpaccios and tartares. I tried only one, the hamachi crudo ($16), and it was as refreshing as a frolic in the surf. Cubes of Asian pear lent an airy sweetness to the sashimi-like sheets of Japanese amberjack augmented with foie gras, onion, crispy shallots and Thai basil. Clam fries ($10) made a heartier starter; the finger-like strips of crunchily breaded clam were served with sauce gribiche, a dip way better than ranch or blue cheese dressing.

The fine beef filet I didn’t quite finish was sturdily paired with maitre d’ hotel butter potatoes (roasted fingerlings slicked with butter), and lamb chops and a Cornish hen can also be had if you want land-based protein. But of course fish occupies the center ring here, and the seafood entrées I tried were world-class.

A chalkboard and its paper version, titled What We Have, augment the regular menu daily with a panoply of oysters, caviars and fish main courses.

Pan-roasted red grouper from the Texas Gulf ($28) was served unfussily but satisfyingly with some lemon butter and rice pilaf. The Gulf also provided the similarly cooked filets of exemplary red snapper ($26), but a helping of salmon took a much longer trip. Ōra King Salmon comes all the way from New Zealand, and the grilled piece I had with some tabbouleh on the side ($24) was a revelation.

Usually salmon slips into tabs or sheets when forked apart. This slab held together, and each bite melted in my mouth as luxuriously as custard.

Speaking of custard, or at least a pudding-like relative, the best desserts I had at SaltAir were in that family.

Chocolate mousse is usually made with the dark stuff. The milk chocolate version served here ($8) in a generous bowl under some crème Chantilly and chocolate shavings was less robust but by no means inferior for all that. And old-fashioned butterscotch pudding gets the royal treatment in butterscotch pot de crème ($8) enhanced with both crème Chantilly and dulce de leche.

Key lime “pie” ($9) turned out to be dry-as-dust Key lime cake roofed with bronzed meringue and insufficiently moistened by Key lime gelato and Key lime curd. Lemon ice ($9) is a better choice if one insists on a citrus-based dessert. Dense and chewy hunks of angel food cake are bracingly tarted up with lemon sorbet and limoncello snow, but a needless dollop of white chocolate cream has no chance of competing with the those wonderfully pucker-inducing confections.

andes cafe ADDRESS 2311 Canal at Navigation TELEPHONE 832-659-0063 WEBSITE andescafe.com CUISINE South American CREDIT CARDS All major HOURS Open 9 am-10 pm Tue.-Sat.,

am-9 pm Sun. Closed Mon. RESERVATIONS Accepted NOISE LEVEL Moderate

9

MOUNTAINS OF AMBITION

By Eric Gerber

All right, bit of an ethical dilemma here.

Andes Cafe has had a relatively low-key profile on the culinary landscape since its quiet debut back in 2014. All things considered, this humble operation that serves up an intriguing array of South American food clearly deserves more recognition – and customers – than it currently enjoys. So, in my role as reviewer, I am 56 APRIL – MAY 2016

behooved (and, boy, does that make it hard to get shoes that fit!) to sing its praises. As in, Andes Cafe offers fresh, novel fare excellently prepared at very reasonable prices in a charming site by an amiable staff.

On the other hand …

In my role as a self-absorbed hedonist who is thinking only of himself and doesn’t want to risk spoiling such a good thing with too much exposure … sssshhh. Andes Cafe? Never heard of it.

What to do, what to do. Well, duty calls, I guess.

Andes Cafe sits patiently in a nondescript, vaguely institutional building just past the eastern edge of downtown, where Franklin, Navigation and Canal converge. If you’re not familiar with the area, chances are you’ll drive by a couple of times before zeroing in. But persist; it’s worth it. You’ll know you’re there when you see the colorful portrait of the Chilean poet Pablo Neruda and the restaurant’s credo spelled out in bold words: Food, Art, Love, Culture and Community.

Inside, it’s a small- to mediumsized room, with nearly half the space devoted to a service counter along with a few seats for a juice bar doling out exotic concoctions like prickly pear with honey or batidos (smoothies) made with soursop or guava. A dozen or so tables are spread out comfortably around the room – nothing fancy. But Wiley Robertson’s eye-catching mural of the eponymous mountain range enlivens one wall, and brightly painted plywood panels try gamely to add some flair. But it’s clear that talented chef and owner David Guerrero – a native of Ecuador who’s been in Houston for nearly a decade at establishments like Samba and Alma – is doing this on a shoestring.

But in exchange for a somewhat unfashionable locale and modest décor, Andes Cafe offers this spectacular assortment of inviting, high-quality dishes at bargain prices. That’s a trade I’ll gladly make. The platter of roasted pork (an Ecuadorean specialty called hornado) was a perfect example of that. The richly marinated meat, accompanied by gravy-laced hominy,

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Arnaldo Richards’ Picos (page 59)

My Table subscriptions (page 50) My Table restaurant trivia playing cards (page 38)

Berkel (page 9) El Meson (page 10) Giacomo’s Cibo e Vino (page 29) Houston Polo Club (page 51) Houston Wine Merchant (page 55) Jake's Finer Foods (page 3) Juice Girl (page 49)

DISPLAY UNTIL MAY 28

ISSUE NO. 132

Kevin McGowan Photography (page 29)

APRIL-MAY 2016

i APRIL – MAY 2016

$5.95 WWW.MY-TABLE.COM

potato-cheese patties and luscious slices of ripe avocado, cost $17 and – not counting the guinea pig feast for two, of course – is one of the most expensive items on the menu. Ditto a Venezuelan shredded beef dish (pabellon criollo) at $16, with its succulent stewed meat, fried plantains and black beans and rice calling to mind the classic Cuban ropa vieja. Flawlessly prepared, impressively priced.

While South American fare isn’t exactly rare in Houston – we have more than plenty of Brazilian meat palaces along with a number of Peruvian and Colombian venues – finding one establishment that attempts to spread its arms wide and embrace so many countries on one menu is notable. When I first encountered Andes Cafe’s expansive menu, I was a trifle skeptical. That pan-continental approach, spanning seven countries in which the Andes run, is tantamount to an American restaurant offering New England boiled dinners, Southern fried chicken, Texas barbecue and Pacific Northwest salmon on the same menu.

That many different dishes? Done well? Really?

In Andes Cafe’s case, really.

Landry’s Signature Group (page 2) Laurenzo’s (page 1)

As you might expect, the menu here can be slightly daunting at first, with 14 “small plates,” ranging from beef heart kabobs and sweetbreads to empanada and tamal variations. Add to that a half dozen soups and salads plus five kinds of ceviche (the highly recommended mixto, with black clams, is $18). Then there are nearly a dozen entrée-size “signature plates,” along with 10 a la carte sides and 10 specialty sauces (such as the sweet-sour tomate de arbol that was drizzled on the hearty Tamal de Mi Abuelita I so enjoyed).

It’s a lot to say grace over, especially for many sheltered Houston diners, bred and fed on Tex-Mex, who may come two-stepping in here expecting salsa and chips on the table and tacos and fajitas on the menu. Faced with the likes of llapingachos (potato cakes), choclo (hominy), chicha morada (purple corn drink) and lomo saltado (Peruvian stir fry), they may make a run for the border – or at least Ninfa’s, which is close by. But those who stick it out and puzzle their way through the menu – the affable staff is glad to help – will be rewarded.

Of course, Andes Cafe already has a core clientele of South American 57 APRIL – MAY 2016

Rainbow Lodge (page 23) River Oaks Houston (page 28) Rodeo Uncorked! Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo (pages 30 & 31) Spec’s (page 23) Sysco Foods (inside back cover) Truluck’s (inside front cover) The Ultimate Food Lover’s Guide to Houston (page 16) Uptown Sushi (page 5) Veg Out! (page 49)

expats, it appears, along with some in-the-know foodies and East End regulars as well as a decent lunch trade from nearby downtown. But it feels a little stuck in the middle at this point, doing well enough to soldier on, but not enough to truly flourish at the level it deserves.

Perhaps the recent addition of a beer and wine license will help with that – it had been BYOB. Now, you can treat yourself to a cold bottle of Peruvian Cusquena or frothy, dark Brazilian Xingu or, for wine enthusiasts, enjoy some of the reliable Malbecs from Argentina’s Mendoza region.

In any case, I hope Andes Cafe thrives. It’s a valuable addition to Houston’s rich culinary culture but, more importantly, I need it to stay open at least till I get my nerve up to try the guinea pig.

William Albright has reviewed local restaurants for more than 20 years for The Houston Post, Inside Houston, Houston Business Journal and others.

Eric Gerber is the director of communications at the University of Houston.

Cardamom Nom 3-in-1 Review • by Sarah Bronson

Our venture into Indian sweetshops overturned what we thought candy was supposed to be.

In its place we found chickpea fudge, sticky sweet paneer, roasted fruit and toasted wheat.

Words can’t quite get across the deep saffron and cardamom nut cakes or the ooshy soft dumplings made with curd cheese, so try them for yourself at these spots.

RAJA SWEETS

5667 Hillcroft, 713-782-5667

This place isn’t set up to be gazed upon, so let’s dive in behind the plentiful sweets counter. We did not expect, on biting into the gulab jamun, kala jamun and rasgulla, the juicy burst of syrup saturating each squashy snack.

Jamuns are balls of khoya (thickened whole milk) that are sweetened, fried and soaked in sugar syrup, and rasgulla literally means “juice ball” – a dumpling of homemade cottage cheese with coarse wheat flour cooked in sugar solution flavored with rose, cardamom or pandanus, a floral extract.

Khalakand pleased us with its thick, creamy sweetness, young cheese taste and pistachio topping. We enjoyed munching on the punjabi pinni, made of wheat flour roasted over a low flame until gingerbread colored and toast scented, then mixed with khoya, nuts and raw sugar. A final greatest hit among many was the laddu, a bright yellow lumpy ball made of besan (chickpea flour), semolina and coconut, all cooked in ghee. Raja also makes a great lunch stop, with pakora, crispy

RAJA SWEETS

samosas, tikka masala, chaat and more, though these weren’t our focus this trip.

BOMBAY SWEETS

5827 Hillcroft, 713-780-4453

On first glance, Bombay Sweets looks a lot like Raja Sweets, but exploring their treats revealed some different takes.

We have to lead with the mohan thal: a delectable fudge of besan rubbed with ghee into oatmeal-like crumbs, roasted until caramel in flavor and color, mixed with pistachio and almond bits, and stuck together with syrup and, we think, nutmeg and cardamom. The anjer kaju, meaning “fig cashew,” wraps red fig dusted with poppy seeds around ground cashews, offsetting the mild sweetness of the nut paste with the jammy fruit.

Of the burfis (a sort of fudge made with milk) we tried, the pale pink chikoo burfi stood out: sweet, malty chikoo fruit roasted with ghee and ricotta. The kesar khoya peda opened a door in our mouths through a very present taste and aroma of saffron along with cardamom in the soft yellow khoya, holding a pinch of rough-ground pistachio in a divet. The chandar kala looked like a

BOMBAY SWEETS

58 APRIL – MAY 2016

round wee samosa brushed with syrup and stuffed with nutty khoya and, intriguingly, caraway. Some of the burfis were not particularly sweet and were saffron dominated, which was strange to our sugar-craving tongues but may well be a welcome respite from fructose for others. Bombay Sweets also serves a full vegetarian buffet.

ALL BENGAL SWEETS AND SNACKS

13438 Bellaire Blvd., 281-983-5455

All Bengal Sweets combines a counter serving samosas, curries and sweets with a small grocery section and plenty of seating amid a painting here, a fish swimming down the wall there. The candy selection was more focused than at the other shops and much less hit or miss. Take the ras malai: a malleable, creamy ball of curd cheese reminding us of mochi, soaked in clotted cream (or malai) and enclosing a wetter pudding center. Or the kala jamun, which again uses chunks of khoya fried on a low flame until brown, or this case purple, and soaked in syrup, in this case wonderfully beyond saturation. The jelabi delighted us with its resemblance to funnel cake, although this crunched more, could be picked up like a pretzel and, like so many of the other sweets, gave up sweet syrup as we bit. The laddu, incorporating pieces of besan, semolina and coconut, tasted like a red bean dessert. We honestly couldn’t identify the last few morsels – we hazarded “crystallized breadfruit” for one – but guessing was part of the fun.

Sarah Bronson is a professional word wrestler. See her head-desking about language and life on @usewordsbetter.

Chiles en Nogada Tradicionales

Arnaldo Richards’ Picos is recognized as one of Houston’s premier award-winning Mexican restaurants. Executive Chef Arnaldo Richards skillfully blends his contemporary culinary concepts with traditional Mexican cooking techniques while remaining faithful to the deeply rooted and authentic flavors of the seven regions of Mexican cuisine.

DISCOVER REGIONS OF MEXICAN CUISINE 3601 Kirby Dr. (at Richmond) Houston, TX 77098 Phone: (832) 831-9940

59 APRIL – MAY 2016

PICOS NET

Spring for lamb

by Robin Barr Sussman • Illustration by Chris Hsu

When spring arrives, we think of new beginnings. So along with asparagus and spring peas, fragrant, earthy lamb starts appearing on seasonal menus. We set out to sample some of the city’s best. From classic roasted lamb entrees to a few surprise dishes, here’s where to go out on a lamb.

BRENNAN’S OF HOUSTON

3300 Smith St., 713-522-9711

Jazzed lamb. You can always find a sensational lamb dish here, either on the daily changing menu or the holiday menu (think #Mother’s Day). From the new wood-burning grill, look for tangy Creole mustard-crusted Colorado lamb chops served with Brussels sprouts, roasted sweet potatoes, Texas lamb bacon (yes!) and mint “Julep” sauce (double yes). We approve.

PRICE: MARKET SCORE: 9

HELEN GREEK FOOD AND WINE

2429 Rice Blvd., 832-831-7133

Greek treat. Chef William Wright creates a modern take on the Greek lamb meatball starter with this hearty blend of lamb with beef. The six Cypriot meatballs, which are pan roasted until still juicy, come sauce-less but with a

COOK IT YOURSELF

Looking for lamb recipes to add to your repertoire? Turn to page 20 for three recipes from Houston chefs.

salad of potato, chickpea and fresh dill center of the plate. Very refreshing.

PRICE: $28 FULL ORDER SCORE: 9 KIRAN’S

4100 Westheimer Rd., 713-960-8472

Lamb central. Kiran Verma’s Indian stalwart serves about five lamb dishes, but the berry demi-glace lamb rack grabbed us at first bite. It’s coated in a masala-coffee spice rub, then marinated and cooked carefully in the tandoori so it is moist and rosy. Garnished with blackberry demi-glace, spring onions and rosemary, these chops are gorgeous.

PRICE: $39 SCORE: 10

PAPPAS BROS. STEAKHOUSE

1200 McKinney St., 713-658-1995, and other location

Classic rack. Sometimes if you want the biggest and best lamb chops, you have to go to a fine steakhouse. This prized Colorado lamb rack is butchered in-house and gets some dry aging before being cooked to specs in a high-tech vertical broiler. The result is sweet, mild and tender plump chops served the classic way, with mint jelly.

PRICE: MARKET SCORE: 10

60 APRIL – MAY 2016

PONDICHERI

2800 Kirby Dr., 713-522-2022

Ba-aah bomb. This giant lamb mint burger is a mainstay on the menu and now we know why. First, it blows the standard beef burger away on major patty flavor. Second, the spicy, creamy cilantro chutney and onion masala spread on the buttery brioche buns creates a taste sensation in every bite. The house-made feta spread on top of the meat doesn’t hurt a thing either. Oh, take it away.

PRICE $12 SCORE: 10

RUGGLES BLACK

3963 Kirby Dr., 832-530-4493

Exotic topper. For something truly different, sample the lamb pie. Not only is this a great pizza but a great rendition of a lamb pizza. The puffy, wood-fired crust perfectly cradles generous fillings of crumbled spicy Black Hills Ranch lamb sausage, sweet roasted cherry tomatoes, scallions and red onions, plus Indian spices. Try to stop at one slice.

PRICE $19.50 SCORE: 9

Robin Barr Sussman is a freelance food writer with a culinary mission: great taste.

61 APRIL – MAY 2016

62 APRIL – MAY 2016