STROLL 2015 ISSUE by Nantucket Magazine

December 2014

N TOM McCANN Holidays for Heroes

The Mysteries of The Local Magazine Read Worldwide

“Everyone should experience the First Republic way – they are so personable and even have freshbaked cookies – I really love visiting my bank.”

MUSKEGET

LYNX

A Sail into History Exploring

Bhutan

S T EV E D IF I L L I P P O Owner and CEO Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse

Nantucket Magazine

160 Federal Street (617) 330-1288

772 Boylston Street (617) 859-8888 One Post Office Square (617) 423-2888

(866) 810-8919 or visit www.firstrepublic.com New York Stock Exchange Symbol: FRC Member FDIC and

NantucketMag Issue 3 2014 DiFillippo ND2014.indd 1

Equal Housing Lender

5/7/14 2:12:37 PM

RON HOWARD In the Heart of the Director

Nantucket Magazine Stroll 2014

Craig Hawkins

Bernadette Maglione

Broker 508-228-1881, ext. 119 craig@maurypeople.com

37 Main Street, Nantucket Island, MA 02554 NEW

Broker 508-228-1881, ext. 203 bernadette@maurypeople.com

ING LIST

SHAWKEMO The quality and finish work throughout this property is exceptional and absolutely must be seen to be appreciated. This incredible main dwelling offers several living areas and views out over butting conservation land. This is an extraordinary execution of a brilliant design. $9,800,000

MADEQUECHAM Private compound with 4 bedroom main house, 2 bedroom guest house, 2 car garage w/studio & bath. Large garden area w/pool, hot tub, outdoor dining room under pergola with Wolf grill, refrigerator and sink. Tennis court and play-scape with in-ground trampoline. A walk or bike ride to one of Nantucket’s most magnificent beaches. $5,775,000

WAUWINET One of the most spectacular locations on Nantucket, nestled in the dunes on the haulover with incredible views in both directions. Walk out the front door to the beach or down the driveway to the harbor and boat moorings. Enjoy beautiful sunrises and sunsets. $9,975,000

TOWN The George C. Gardner House - one of the premier properties in the town of Nantucket. Over a half acre of magnificent gardens and landscaping. Restored in 2004-05 maintaining its historical integrity and original moldings, finishes, ornamental trim, replacing plumbing, electrical and new systems. $9,500,000

TOWN Just totally restored and perfect in every way. Three finished floors, 7BR/6.5 baths done in Carrera marble, new kitchen, large formal living and dining rooms, big family room, beautiful yard, off street parking. Original moldings, trim, floors, beams, paneling intact. $4,850,000

WAUWINET Three acres of privacy and wonderful views of Polpis Harbor. Well-built four-bedroom house with covered porches and decks plus a garage with a two bedroom apartment also with views. Less than 1.5 miles to the public beach access and parking at Polpis Harbor. $3,999,000

TOWN Renovated antique with large back yard and beautiful landscaping. Three finished floors plus basement. Wonderful floor plan for families and large groups. Bright kitchen with French doors leading to patio and yard. Two off-street parking spaces. $3,875,000

CLIFF Beautifully restored 1747 antique home on desirable Cliff Road, a five minute walk into town. Many original features including four fireplaces, wide pine flooring, moldings and raised paneling. Private yard and gardens, and covered dining patio. Wonderful views of Sound from roof walk. $4,875,000

SURFSIDE Large custom home in Surfside with a private path out to the beach and views out to the South Shore. Built on nearly 2 very private acres. The perfect beach house for a large family or entertaining. Extremely private location. Original owner, never rented. $2,695,000

TOWN 4 bedroom/3.5 bath home in the Old Historic District. Large deck and gardens compliment the interior living spaces. Top end kitchen appliances, marble counter tops, surround sound system, A/C, central vac., two fireplaces and custom built-ins and molding throughout the home. Move-in condition. $2,975,000

TOWN Renovated five bedroom, five and 1/2 bath home on Fair Street with original historic details throughout the house. Pine floors, chair rails and original doors are still intact. There is parking for one car with entryway off of parking area. $2,395,000

TOWN Beautifully restored in-town antique on an oversized, corner lot. Everything has been replaced; foundation, plumbing, electrical, roof, shingles, fireplaces, etc. All original moldings, flooring, mantels saved, stripped and refinished. A beautifully restored home in a most convenient location. $3,875,000

TOWN Extremely well designed and built in-town home in perfect condition. Open, bright and finished with attention to detail. Oversized lot with plenty of room for a second dwelling and/or garage. Approximately 2500 square feet of ground cover remaining. $2,395,000

MID-ISLAND Mid-island condo: 3 floors of finished living space, full basement and central AC. 1st floor: dining room, living room, kitchen. 2nd floor: master suite, walk-in closet and bath, 2nd BR shares the hall bathroom with large 3rd floor BR suite. Clubhouse and swimming pool. $550,000

SCONSET An incredibly unique offering of over a half acre with a 4 BR fully furnished main house along with a two car garage - guest apartment above for family and friends. 1/4 mile to the ‘Sconset Casino in the heart of the village. Expansion capabilities. $2,995,000

TOWN Large, totally restored barn. 5 bedrooms, 5 ½ baths, 3 finished floors, custom kitchen with Sub Zero, granite counters, etc. Large rooms throughout. Two patios, yard, garage and off-street parking.

D SOL

SHAWKEMO Sweeping, 180 degree views spanning from Nantucket Town to the Harbor, Coatue, Pocomo and Great Point. Well built 4 BR home with a wrap around deck, full basement and attached garage. Lot is approved for a second dwelling. $4,975,000

CLIFF Appealing home on a quiet stone lane off of Cliff Road. Open floor plan w/ half walls & columns defining common rooms - bright, open feel. First floor bedroom, full bath, wrap around covered porch and a beautiful landscaped yard. Original owner. $2,845,000

Each Office is Independently Owned and Operated. Equal Housing Opportunity.

$2,250,000 D SOL

TOWN Two beautiful houses, one restored antique, the other new construction, on a large in-town lot. There are a total of 9 bedrooms, and 8+ baths. Each house has a private, outdoor patio area and off-street parking. Walk to Main Street, bike to the beach.

CLIFF Thoughtfully renovated Cliff Road property just steps to the Beach and Town. Six bedroom home with attached studio and a garage. New cedar roof, new storm windows, renovated bathrooms, and upscale furniture. Offered completely turn-key.

$1,995,000

$3,495,000

S n u g ly I n s p i r e d I n t e r i o r s

a wa r d - w i n n i n g i n t e r i o r d e s i g n f i r m T: 5 0 8 . 2 2 8 . 1 2 1 9 â&#x20AC;˘ www.kathleenhaydesigns.com

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K at h l e e n H ay D e s i g n s

Photo by Jeffrey Allen

n a p - f r i e n d ly

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• www.dianefirSten.coM

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marinehomecenter.com 134 Orange Street, Nantucket 508.228.0900

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• • • • • •

N magazine

Wishing you Joy & Peace this holiday season

World Class Coverage... HometoWn serviCe 117 Pleasant Street, Nantucket, MA 02554 â&#x20AC;˘ 508.228.5050 â&#x20AC;˘ www.nantucketinsuranceagency.com

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W A T E R J E W E L S GALLERY Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Bruce A. Percelay Editor Robert Cocuzzo Art Director Paulette Chevalier Chief Photographer Kit Noble Operations Consultant Adrian Wilkins Contributors Jackie Basso Susan Browne Holly Finigan Josh Gray Jen Laskey Justine Paradis Terry Pommett Jen Shalley Tim Weed Photographers Charlotte Carey Photography Nathan Coe Steve Hollister Terry Pommett Brian Sager Advertising Director Fifi Greenberg Advertising Sales Audrey Wagner Publisher N. LLC Chairman: Bruce A. Percelay

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Nantucket Times 17 North Beach Street Nantucket, MAâ&#x20AC;&#x2C6;02554 508-228-1515

ÂŠCopyright 2011 Nantucket Times. Nantucket Times (N Magazine) is published seven times annually from April through December. Reproduction of any part of this publication is prohibited without written permission from the publisher. Editorial submissions may be sent to Editor, Nantucket Times, 17 North Beach Street, Nantucket, MA 02554. We are not responsible for unsolicited editorial or graphic material. Office (508) 228-1515 or fax (508) 228-8012. Signature Printing and Consulting 800 West Cummings Park Suite 2900 Woburn

14 Centre Street Nantucket, MA 02554 508 228 0825 14 St Albans Grove London W8 5BP 44 207 368 6367

StRoll On

The Wampanoags and Hollywood appear to have something in common: They’ve both discovered Nantucket. In our cover story, famed director Ron Howard came to our shores this

October to promote his silver screen adaptation of Nathaniel Philbrick’s In the Heart of the Sea, the third film focusing on the island in as many months. As editor Robert Cocuzzo experienced, Howard and Philbrick both share a sense of unaffected earnestness that Hollywood seldom sees, which comes across clearly in his interview. A place that is unlikely to see cameramen and movie stars in the foreseeable future is the island of Muskeget, which editor Robert Cocuzzo and chief photographer Kit Noble set out in kayaks to explore for themselves. This tiny yet fascinating spit of land has an ecosystem totally unique, not only to Nantucket, but to the rest of the world. Muskeget could be what Nantucket looked like hundreds of years ago and is a fascinating glimpse into our past. In another link to history, N Magazine showcases the privateer Lynx, which put Nantucket in a pivotal role in the War of 1812. Few islanders, including the staff at N Magazine, had any idea that Nantucket’s history included a battle off our shores that shaped the outcome of an entire war. Today, a special Nantucketer is battling the effects of war on a different front. Resident Tom McCann started a nonprofit organization called Holidays for Heroes, which serves wounded veterans in the process of pulling together their lives after severe battlefield trauma. McCann, through raising money and bringing soldiers and their families to Nantucket as a respite from their challenges, performs a heroic deed in and of itself. There is much to be thankful for this holiday season on Nantucket, which may explain the growing popularity of off-islanders returning to the island to celebrate Thanksgiving here. Contributing writer Tim Weed takes a look back at what Thanksgiving could have been like on the island 350 years ago, before it was declared a national holiday by Abraham Lincoln. That meal may have included geese, passenger pigeons, and even sandhill cranes and a certain tart red berry, which they consumed, now known as a crane-berry, or cranberry. We wish everyone a warm holiday season and the wishful thinking for a mild winter. Sincerely,

Publisher

N magazine

Bruce A. Percelay

2014 N by THE numbers 18

A numerical snapshot of Nantucket in the winter

Only on nantucket N 20

You know you’re living on island time if…

December 2014

Neat stuff Nantucket regular Milicent Armstrong turns Turkish rugs into luxurious bags and chic shoes that are perfect for winter.

N TOM McCANN Holidays for Heroes

The Mysteries of

The Local Magazine Read Worldwide

Ndulge “Everyone should experience the First Republic holidayway dinners, – they are sopastry personable and even have freshbaked cookies – I really love visiting my bank.”

Perfect for your chef Giancarlo D’Attili shares Topper’s legendary brown bread recipe.

MUSKEGET

LYNX

A Sail into History Exploring

BHUTAN

S T EV E D IF I L L I P P O

Owner and CEO Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse

160 Federal Street (617) 330-1288

Nantucket Magazine

Nbuzz 772 Boylston Street (617) 859-8888 One Post Office Square (617) 423-2888

News, gossip and tidbits from around town.

(866) 810-8919 or visit www.firstrepublic.com New York Stock Exchange Symbol: FRC Member FDIC and

NantucketMag Issue 3 2014 DiFillippo ND2014.indd 1

Equal Housing Lender

RON HOWARD In the Heart of the Director

Nantucket Magazine Stroll 2014

5/7/14 2:12:37 PM

Chief Photographer Kit Noble photographed Ron Howard in the Nantucket Whaling Museum for the cover of this Stroll issue, with assistance from Brian Sager.

Nosh news 28 SECRET SUSHI

While no one was looking, couture shoemaker Vanessa Noel slipped a delicious sushi joint into her downtown boutique.

31 A TASTE OF HISTORY

N magazine

Travel back in time and see what might have been on the menu for the first Thanksgiving dinner on Nantucket.

18k white gold, sapphire & diamond necklace ($59,000) from Pageo.

HOLIDAY STYLE

Stroll down & celebrate the season!

SUSAN LISTER LOCKE G A L L E RY

508.228.2132 & 508.221.0531 susanlisterlocke.com

28 Easy S treet NANTUCKET

MINOU PALANDJIAN & NICHOLAS RAY Paintings by WILLIAM BARSTOW IV, SUSAN COYNE,

YOUNG Ceramic Art by PIERO FENCI & Sculpture by LIZ AKAMATSU & IREAN OLIER OAKLEY

THE ARTISTS OF THE GALLERY Jewelry by SUSAN LISTER LOCKE, DIANA KIM ENGLAND,

M.J. LEVY DICKSON, MARY GIAMMARINO, GRAY JACOBIK, MICHAEL J. MOORE & LUCINDA

Let us

help you select, wrap and ship all of your holiday gifts.

51 Main Street

5 Gift Cards 5 Shop Online or In Store

Nantucket MA 02554

NantucketLooms.com

N magazine

Gift Wrapping & Shipping

Nspire

Nventure

36 HOLIDAYS FOR HEROES

74 A World Away

42 A FIGHTING CHANCE

Nvogue

Nantucket summer resident Tom McCann is helping our wounded warriors achieve their American dreams.

Nantucket resident Andre Dobrochinski is keeping the Brazilian martial art of capoeira alive and kicking on the island.

Longtime Nantucket resident Terry Pommet takes us to the faraway kingdom of Bhutan.

82 Treasures of the Island

When it comes to Nantucket’s jewelers, not all that glitters is gold.

NVestigate 48 THE FALCONER

Longtime Nantucket resident Tom Mulholland takes us on a hunt with his red-tailed hawk.

Ndepth 52 IN THE HEART OF THE DIRECTOR

Academy Award winner Ron Howard came to our shores this October to promote his big screen adaptation of Nathaniel Philbrick’s In the Heart of the Sea.

N magazine

60 AN ISLAND UNTO ITSELF

Over thirty years ago, the island of Muskeget was named a National Natural Landmark, but only a fraction of Nantucketers have ever set foot on its sandy shores.

66 LYNX TO HISTORY

On the 200th anniversary of the Battle of Nantucket, a replica Baltimore Clipper of the Privateer Lynx gives a fitting salute.

NHA 105

Enjoy a photomontage of old toys from Nantucket yesteryear.

NUptials 108

su a D th fe th a n

Jennifer Akins and Jim Febeo tie the knot on Nantucket this fall.

Nscene 110

Ms. Nantucket blACKbook gives us some cool tips on staying warm this winter.

Not so fast 112

A quick chat with Nantucket’s Town Crier, Eric Goddard.

g 5 3 m

CLASSIC COASTAL LIVING Listings Exclusive Nantucket

iacomet Preserve is a stunning new neighborhood of nineteen magnificently designed homes all with Gunite pools surrounded by acres of pristine conservation land and close to Nantucket’s picturesque south shore. Developed with the island’s unique character in mind, the architectural design of the residences and the feeling in this community of homes - the winding street, the indigenous plantings, the plethora of open space are very much in keeping with Nantucket’s historic and natural aesthetic. $2,875,000

Gary Winn, Broker

Each Office is Independently Owned and Operated. Equal Housing Opportunity.

N magazine

gary@maurypeople.com 508.330.3069 37 Main Street, Nantucket, MA 02554 maurypeople.com

15 Photography: T.G. Olcott

S TERRY POMMETT After graduating from Georgetown University, Terry Pommett spent a few years traveling the world with a Nikon F4 until it was stolen in India. From the start, he felt resigned to being a frustrated National Geographic photographer. Indeed, he drew his inspiration from that magazine’s images and those of French street photographer, Henri Cartier Bresson, who considered the camera “an instrument of intuition and spontaneity.” Upon returning to America, he washed ashore on Nantucket to attend the wedding of his college roommate, Chick Walsh, cofounder of the Opera House Cup. Terry never left. After a number of years as a restaurant worker at the Opera House and movie theater owner of the Gaslight Theater, Terry began his commercial and editorial career. Travel photography is still his greatest passion. For this winter issue, Terry brings us into the faraway kingdom of Bhutan.

TIM WEED Will Poole’s Island, Tim Weed’s novel of 17th century New England, was a Nantucket Bookworks Pick of the Month for August. Tim is the winner of a Reader’s Digest Popular Fiction Award and a featured expert for National Geographic Expeditions in Cuba, Spain, Portugal, Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. He lives in southeastern Vermont and has been a regular seasonal resident on the island since the mid-1980s. Much of the research for Will Poole’s Island, which Kirkus has called “immersive . . . [a] riveting portrayal of early Colonial New England,” took place on the beaches, waters, and moors of Nantucket. For this winter issue, Tim cooks up a fictitious first Thanksgiving shared between NanN magazine

tucket’s native Wampanoags and the first

colonists.

Photo by Allan Seymour

ANNE BECKER DESIGN NANTUCKET

508.228.1441 www.annebeckerdesign.com

NUmbers

Nantucket by the

Numbers

3,000

Doughnuts made per day at the Downy Flake during the summer

1,547

239

Take-offs and landings at Nantucket Memorial Airport last Stroll weekend

Deer killed during last yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s archery hunting season

127

Turkeys Ray Owen raised for this Thanksgiving

2,000,000 10

Babies born in 2013 on Nantucket

Different lighthouses have stood on Brandt Point since 1746

Pounds of cranberries harvested each year

10,399

30 Restaurants open during the winter

Population in the winter

220,000 3,726 160 20,000 29 82 Dollars raised by Swim Across America this year

People served by the Food Pantry this year

Artifacts in the Nantucket Historical Association collection

Named ponds on Nantucket

Inches of snow fell in the winter of 1903, the most in Nantucketâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history.

Christmas trees decorated around town for Stroll

happy holidays from

jada loveless

Join us forHolidayStroll book signing and champagne reception with

Suzanne Kasler s a t u r d a y, d e c e m b e r 6 , 2 0 1 4 4:00pm until 6:00pm

one orange street nantucket corner of m a in street and orange

w w w. j a d a l o v e l e s s . c o m

508.901.5824

home, gifts, & design services 2 candle street I 508.228.1992 I bodeganantucket.com

Only on

Nantucket...

…do people actually go to the airport for the food. …is a BOX card more exclusive than a Black Card.

…are you almost guaranteed to go around a rotary every day.

…can a housecleaner make more hourly than a legal secretary.

…can you share a plane with an inmate and his attorney taken off island in manacles.

…do you have to be approved to get on the wait list to buy a turkey from Ray Owen.

…can it cost more to dispose of an old house than it cost to have originally built it.

…does everyone know what a Turkey Terrific is.

N magazine

…is March known as “Hate Month.”

...are some bartenders known as “star-tenders” …is “Take-It-OrLeave-It” a place.

Eye Care and Eyewear The Nantucket Way

Dr. Mike Ruby, OD

Compassionate Eye Care Innovative Technology Exceptional Service Premium Eyewear

13 Old South Road (508) 228-0844

After-Hours Medical Eye Emergencies: 508-221-7144

30 Youngs Way Nantucket, MA 02554

508.325.5472 office

508.241.0862 Mobile

info@nantucketmediasystems.com www.NantucketMediaSystems.com

John’s Island – Florida’s Nantucket

772.231.0900 : Vero Beach, Florida www.JohnsIslandRealEstate.com

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THREE CHAMPIONSHIP GOLF COURSES 18 HAR-TRU TENNIS COURTS PROFESSIONAL SQUASH & CROQUET HEALTH & FITNESS CENTER OCEANFRONT BEACH CLUB PRIVATE FAMILY-ORIENTED CLUB COMMUNITY UNIQUE VERTICAL MEMBERSHIP NINE MILES INTRACOASTAL WATERWAY THREE MILES PRIVATE BEACH

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5/30/13 2:11 PM

NEAT STUFF

CARPET

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B a g g e r

Nantucket regular Milicent Armstrong turns Turkish rugs into luxurious bags and chic shoes perfect for fall and winter

When Milicent Armstrong ventured off to Turkey on a buying tour for her mother’s Milton jewelry boutique, she returned with more than she bargained for. Mesmerized by all the beautiful textiles, Armstrong, then a master’s student studying interior design at Boston Architectural College, set out to weave the kilim of her travels with the trendy fashion of home by launching Artemis Design Co. The result is a true Turkish delight, boasting colorful shoes and bags that hit Nantucket this summer and will be back this Stroll at a trunk show at One Orange.

“My bags and shoes are made from one-hundred percent wool kilim carpets, so the material, being wool, is absolutely perfect for the colder months,” Armstrong says. “The colors are also very complementary to autumn and winter colors. Earth tones, bright pops of color, and neutrals are all featured in the natural dyed kilim.” While the women’s kilim loafers have been flying off the shelves, Armstrong also offers men’s smoking loafers for “the fun, confident guy.” All Artemis shoes and bags are completely unique and hugely in demand. So if you can’t make it to the trunk show at One Orange on Old South Wharf this Christmas Stroll, check out Milicent Armstrong at artemisdesignco.com.

N TOWN HISTORIC ESTATE

WITH MAJESTIC HARBOR VIEWS

A Very Rare Offering: One of Nantucket’s premier properties, “Long Hill,” is perched majestically at the crest of historic upper Orange Street and enjoys expansive, panoramic views of the Harbor, Coatue and town. The beautifully landscaped grounds include a formal English garden with brick walkway rimmed by manicured boxwood, lovely rose gardens, specimen trees, a two-car garage and a towering privet hedge which surrounds the entire estate. NOTE: There is a separate building lot on the property that is included in the sale. $18,975,000

gary@maurypeople.com | 508.330.3069 | 37 Main St, Nantucket, MA 02554 | maurypeople.com Each Office Is Independently Owned And Operated.

N magazine

Gary Winn, Broker

NDulge

here are plenty of reasons to love Topper’s at the Wauwinet. The romantic sunset water taxi. Exquisite cuisine. Vast wine cellar. Impeccable service. Yet for many, what tops the list can be found in the breadbasket. Just a bite of Topper’s legendary Boston-style brown bread will cause your eyeballs to roll back in your skull with delight. It’s the best thing since, well, you get the idea. Perfect for your holiday dinners, here’s the recipe courtesy of Topper’s pastry chef Giancarlo D’Attili.

INGREDIENTS -3 sticks of butter, melted -2/3 cup packed brown sugar -1½ cups molasses -2 eggs -1 cup wheat flour -1 cup rye flour -1 cup cornmeal -2 tsp. baking soda -1 tsp. salt -1 cup sour cream -1 cup black currants

DIRECTIONS 1 For two round loaves you will need two clean,

well-greased one-pound coffee cans with both ends removed. This will serve as your mold. 2 Mix the butter, brown sugar, and molasses

together. Add in the eggs one at a time, beating well between each addition. 3 Mix the dry ingredients in a separate bowl.

Alternate adding in the dry ingredients and the sour cream to the egg/sugar mixture.

N magazine

4 Fold in the currants. 5 Place the metal round molds (coffee cans)

on a baking sheet, line with parchment, and fill them about ¾ the way up. 6

Bake at 325º for 20–25 minutes.

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Trump International Hotel & Tower New York Terms & Conditions apply. Subject to availability at participating hotels.25

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NBUZZ

NANTUCKET BEsts THE VINEYARD In the “rivalry” between Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard, the Grey Lady scored a

knockout punch as far as the 2014 real-estate market is concerned. As reported on the front page of Banker and Tradesman, “Nantucket is hot right now and Martha’s Vineyard is not.” According to Jennifer Shalley of Windwalker Real Estate, Nantucket real estate has indeed enjoyed robust year-over-year improvement across all home-sales metrics. Total residential transaction and dollar volume through the end of September were up markedly from 2014 figures. Transactions are up 21% and dollar volume has increased 36%. Additionally, the median home-sale value climbed twelve percent, led largely by a surge in the number of home sales over $4 million and continued price improvement in a high-demand, low-inventory environment. In contrast, the total number of home sales in Martha’s Vineyard declined year-over-year, and the total dollar volume of these sales increased only modestly. Consequently, the median home-sale value grew by just two percent. Shalley is quick to point out that the B&T article omitted one notable difference between the two island real-estate markets: the growth in the number of vacant-lot sales. The number of Nantucket’s land transactions increased by only two percent since last year while Martha’s Vineyard saw a rise of thirty-three percent during the same period. It appears that some of the buyer demand for homes on the Vineyard may have simply shifted to raw land where homes will eventually be built. As the fourth quarter is typically host to the lion’s share of yearly real-estate transactions, it will be interesting to see how the “competition” shakes out.

GOING, GOING, GOING,

GONE! A rare foreclosure auction landed on

Old South Road. The retail and apartment development across from the airport park, recently traded hands for $6.95 million, almost half the price it was developed for. Best known as the home of Thai House Restaurant, the complex includes seven retail spaces and thirteen apartments, and three vacant parcels for future development. The property was built during the go-go days of the mid-2000s and its value never took off. At press time, the name of the investor had not been made public record, but at this new cost basis, it is likely to be a better investment the second time around.

reMain Nantucket has rolled up its sleeves to build yet another innovative use of space downtown…and it’s mighty tasty. Construction began last month on the Nantucket Culinary Center on 22 Federal Street, which will offer cooking classes, demonstrations, events, and programs for summer visitors, passionate local foodies, and aspiring young chefs in our community. “Our vision is that this will be a place that encourages collaborations with local restaurants and chefs, allowing their skills and cuisines N magazine

to get some additional visibility,” says reMain’s executive director, Melissa Philbrick. “We think that this building can help train those

seeking to work in the hospitality industry here and elsewhere, while it reinforces Nantucket’s reputation with our visitors as a premiere food destination.” Along with a complete historic restoration and technical modernization of the building on 22 Federal Street, a two-story addition will be built on the courtyard. The new Culinary Center will house a demonstration kitchen, an interactive kitchen, and a commercial kitchen, which will serve a café offering take-out and limited seating year-round. “The activities at the culinary center as a whole will provide more reasons for more people to come into the downtown,” says Philbrick. The Culinary Center is slated to open mid-2015.

STROLL FORTY-ONE The 41st Christmas Stroll kicks off on Saturday December 6th with Nantucket’s own

Christmas Marketplace celebrated at the foot of Main Street to benefit our community’s nonprofit organizations. Performances will line Main Street in preparation for the Town Crier to ring in Christmas Stroll at 11:45. Thirty minutes later, Santa arrives at Straight Wharf courtesy of a Coast Guard cutter. The big man will parade up Main Street and down Centre Street to the Jared Coffin House where he will meet with children till 3. Later in the day, from 4:45-5:15, carolers will gather at the steps of the Pacific National Bank at the top of Main Street to sing beneath the towering Christmas tree.

ACT a Second

After two seasons bringing Nantucket classical and contemporary plays in a tent behind the Whaling Museum, the White Heron Theatre Company might soon be breaking ground on a facility on 5 North Water Street. Last month, the HDC approved their plans for a 140-seat theater that could be open for business as early as next July. Designed by architect Andrew Kotchen of Workshop/APD, preliminary plans are modeled after a maritime industrial barn or warehouse, complete with barn doors, a balcony, climate control, and soundproof walls. “The building will respect the nature of the streetscape,” says White Heron’s executive director and coartistic director, Michael Kopko, while also “allowing us to do anything we want theatrically.” The box office will be held in a smaller structure attached to the theater by way of a breezeway, and theatergoers will be able to gather at a courtyard before entering for the performance. “We want to keep the same feeling of the tent, which was a sense of being very close to the work,” says White Heron’s president, founder, and executive director, Lynne Bolton. “We want to keep the intimacy, the sense of spectacle, and the indoor-outdoor functionality.” At press time, the White Heron still had some more permitting to navigate, but if all goes to plan, groundbreaking could happen before the end of the year.

After six years, Corazon del Mar has closed its doors for good. Owners Seth and Angela Raynor toasted their beloved Latin-style eatery at a grand fiesta this past

lists, former N Magazine associate editor

October. Closure of Corazon came after the 21 South Water

Amy Jenness released On This Day In

Street property was reportedly put on the market for $3,500,000,

Nantucket History, a clever book break-

the first time this historic property has been for sale in over sixty

ing down the island’s fascinating past by

years. When the Raynors, who were leasing the space, opted

the days in a calendar year. Whether it was Nantucketer Tony

to not buy the building, another local restaurateur is rumored

Sarg famously revealing his balloon floats for the Thanks-

to have purchased it. At press time, the

giving Day Parade on November 28, 1935, or when Maria

name of the buyer had not been

Mitchell spotted a comet from the roof of her parents’ house

made public. As for the Raynors,

on October 1, 1847, Jenness’s book brings readers through the

thankfully we can still see them

years in an entertaining and easy-to-read format that will be

at their other beloved restaurants, The

the delight of any Nantucket lover on your gift list this year.

Pearl and The Boarding House.

Pick up a copy at Mitchell’s Book Corner or Bookworks.

N magazine

Just in time for your holiday reading

Nosh news

SECRET sushi Written by Jen Laskey

While no one was watching, couture shoe designer Vanessa Noel slipped a year-round sushi joint into her downtown Nantucket boutique

“Sushi is sexy, and we’re going with really sexy, visually beautiful, creative, yet simple and healthy fresh food at Café V Sushi,” says couture shoe designer, hotelier, and restaurateur Vanessa Noel of her newest venture. The island’s new year-round sushi hotspot opened under the radar and without any fanfare (not even a sign with the restaurant’s name outside) smack in the middle of tourist season this August. “We wanted to creep onto the scene,” Noel says. “We did absolutely no advertising for over a month.” Sure enough, the buzz caught on and people started making their way to the latest incarnation of the Chestnut Street spot that’s tucked into the tiny house adjacent to Noel’s shoe boutique and hotel.

Café V Sushi offers a classic array of

kiyaki, homemade dumplings, and Nan-

are done in New York. The designer

sushi and sashimi made with high-qual-

tucket bay scallops with an Asian twist.

sits back casually with her parrot, Mr.

N magazine

ity fish at prices that year-rounders will

Peeps, perched on her shoulder, nuz-

appreciate. Local tuna and wild salmon

From the nerve center of her opera-

zling up against her neck. Shoes from

are used when possible. Hot entrees in-

tions—a parlor floor office above her

her collections are displayed artfully

clude teriyaki, curry, and yakisoba dish-

Vanessa Noel Shoes showroom on the

around the room like small sculptures in

es. Noel is already at work expanding

Upper East Side of Manhattan—Noel

an exhibition.

the menu to include more local fish as

explains that much of the business for

well as winter specials such as Japanese

the restaurant, including the social me-

Noel, a lifelong seasonal Nantucketer,

hot-pot dishes like shabu shabu and su-

dia, the menus, and public relations,

travels to the island regularly both for

pleasure and to keep her finger on

She speaks excitedly about

walk in. Café V Sushi is an extension

how she brought two Nepalese

of the aesthetics Noel employs in her

brothers-in-law, Bishnu Simkhada, Café

shoe designs and the interior designs of

sole designer

V Sushi’s chef, and Bishnu Dhamala,

her boutiques and hotels, which feature

collection and the owner

the general manager, back together for

sensual textures and natural earth tones

of two Nantucket hotels (Vanessa Noel

this project. “The two had worked on

accented with bright colors. What she

Hotel and Hotel Green), she also acts as

Nantucket for fourteen years with stints

describes as “nonpretentious glamour.”

a creative director for Café V Sushi, ul-

at both Yoshi’s and Lola,” she says.

the pulse of her businesses there. In addition to being the for her shoe

timately overseeing everything from the

Noel chose a brown paint for the interior

interior design to the dishes on the menu

Not surprisingly, there aren’t any tradi-

“that looks delicious in the evening” and

and the way the food is visually present-

tional Japanese rice-paper lanterns or

she hung bright orange-, pink-, and red-

ed on the plates.

prints of koi fish on the walls when you

hued artworks by the late Peter Gee, a

hot pink, topaz, teal, and royal blue that

like many of Vanessa Noel’s creations,

colorist and pop artist who was a contem-

echo the colors in Gee’s prints.

Café V is Nantucket with flair.

porary of Warhol’s, on the walls. Long, The intimate space makes for cozy off-

ard-print haircalf, a type of leather made

season dining. Tables are close enough

by the same tanner Noel works with for

that you don’t have to feel self-conscious

her shoes. “Obviously, it’s dyed,” she

about leaning over and asking your

says, smiling, “because no cow looks

neighbors what they ordered when tab-

like a leopard.” The banquettes are dot-

leau after tableau of colorful fish, vegeta-

ted with brightly shammed pillows in

bles, meats, and noodles arrives. Indeed,

N magazine

sleek banquettes are upholstered in leop-

N magazine

508.325.5977 www.MHumphreyACK.com

Nosh news

Award-winning writer and National Geographic Expeditions expert, Tim Weed, recreates the first Thanksgiving dinner on Nantucket Thanksgiving is a nineteenth-century invention. It was declared

Massachusetts—Thomas Macy and Sarah Hopcott Macy—

a national holiday by President Abraham Lincoln in 1863, after

their five children, a young widower named Edward Starbuck,

two decades of persistent campaigning by a poet and magazine

and a twelve-year-old boy named Isaac Coleman. Macy was

editor named Sarah Josepha Hale. And while America’s fa-

an ardent Baptist, at odds with the Puritan church; he and his

vorite foodie holiday may indeed commemorate an actual meal,

companions came to the island seeking new opportunity and the

Thanksgiving is widely seen as a metaphor for the generosity

freedom to worship as they pleased. Precisely what provisions

of the local Wampanoags toward the Puritan separatists that al-

the party brought with them in their tiny vessel is not known,

lowed the new arrivals to survive in a harsh and unfamiliar en-

but it couldn’t have been much: perhaps a few prized luxuries

vironment. On the mainland, this legendary Thanksgiving feast

from home such as sugar, cider vinegar, rum, and pepper, along

is believed to have taken place in the autumn of 1621, to cel-

with staples such as wheat or rye flour, root vegetables, salt, and

ebrate the Plymouth Plantation’s first successful harvest. Here

molasses. The new arrivals are also likely to have brought trade

on Nantucket, the meal wouldn’t have happened for another

goods such as flints, iron pots, nails, fishhooks, cloth, and cured

thirty-eight years.

tobacco that they could have used to barter for food. In any case, it’s clear that those earliest English settlers would not have sur-

English colonists arrived on the shores of Nantucket in the au-

vived the winter of 1659–60 without the generous assistance of

tumn of 1659. The party came ashore in a small sailing ves-

Nantucket’s Wampanoag population, which is believed to have

sel known as a shallop. It consisted of a couple from Salisbury,

numbered around seven hundred people at the time.

N magazine

e know that despite a few initial misunderstandings, a spirit of mutual tolerance and cooperation emerged between the early settlers and Nantucket’s resident Wampanoags, and that for many decades the island was free of the devastating epidemics and violence that are a tragic part of our history on the mainland. While there’s no record of a sit-down meal in those first few months, for the sake of argument, and in the spirit of holiday merrymaking, let’s assume there was one. In this fictional Thanksgiving feast, what kind of food would have been served?

English name for a certain tart red berry that was plentiful on the island: the crane-berry, or cranberry.

The centerpiece of this fictional Nantucket meal would probably not have been venison, as the first

Pre-contact, the Indians fished with stone hooks and spears,

Thanksgiving in Plymouth is believed to have been,

and they used weirs placed in the island’s estuaries and tidal

and it probably wouldn’t have been turkey either.

streams to catch fish. It’s fair to assume that by 1659 they would

Migratory wildfowl, on the other hand, were abun-

have had access to iron fishhooks, hemp rope, and other English

dant on the island in the seventeenth century: ducks,

trade goods, but it’s also likely that traditional fishing methods

geese, loons, passenger pigeons, and even sandhill

were still being pursued on Nantucket in the same way they had

cranes, whose feeding habits were what led to the

been for centuries. Seals were hunted for their skins, meat, and fat, and beached “drift whales” were a prized windfall. Our fictional meal would very likely have contained shellfish, something the English were known not to relish except in emergencies. “First a feast and then a famine,” the saying went. “Then out on the flats a’clammin’.” But in the fall of 1659, it is likely that the colonists spent plenty of time out on the flats,

or in Madaket harbor and other good clamming areas,

fox grapes, all of which could be dried to last through

possibly guided by their Wampanoag hosts, foraging for

the winter.

quahogs, oysters, scallops, and mussels. Nantucket Wampanoags moved around seasonally. The Nantucket Wampanoags were also farmers, al-

They spent the summer close to the ocean, but in the late

though not in the way the English thought of farming.

fall of 1659 they would likely already have relocated to

They likely would have been able to provide various

their wintering places, inland, in low, south-facing hol-

dishes made from what they’d grown in the previous

lows. So let us imagine our way back to an afternoon

season, including corn, beans, and “pumpion” (a catch-

in November, and a gathering of Indians and colonists,

all name for various kinds of winter squash and pump-

on the shore of a kettle-hole pond in the Middle Moors.

kin). And of course, in part because of the Wampanoag

Because we’re imagining freely, let’s make it an unusu-

practice of burning the land periodically to create habitat

ally warm and pleasant late November afternoon, with

for migratory fowl and encourage the growth of fruit-

the sun on our shoulders and the fragrant smoke from a

bearing plants, the island was a great place for gathering

cooking fire in our nostrils. Now, let’s savor the tastes of

blueberries, bearberries, blackberries, beach plums, and

Nantucket’s first Thanksgiving. Bon appétit!

A Nantucket pemmican of smoke-cured striped bass, mealy-plum, seal fat, and crane-berries Stewed pumpion (pumpkin) made tart by a dollop of Mr. Macy’s cider vinegar

Duck roasted in an underground oven and seasoned with a dash of Mr. Macy’s East India pepper A stew of beans, corn, wildfowl, winter squash, Jerusalem artichoke, and clam broth A bluefish-head soup with Sesachacha oysters and coarse-ground corn meal, thickened with dried turtle eggs A succotash of quahogs, corn, beans, and crane-berries

A corn “samp” porridge with dried beach plums, fox grapes, blueberries, strawberries, and acorns, sweetened with molasses supplied by Mr. Macy.

This imaginary feast would not have been possible without the kind assistance of Allen Reinhard of the Nantucket Conservation Foundation and Elizabeth Oldham of the Nantucket Historical Association Research Library. Works consulted include Abram’s Eyes by Nathaniel Philbrick and “Nantucket’s Native Foodways,” by Debra McManis, which appeared in the NHA’s magazine, Historic Nantucket, Volume 59:1, 2009.

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Holidays for

HEROS

N magazine

Written by Josh Gray

Photography by Kit Noble

NSpire

Nantucket resident Tom McCann is helping change the lives of our wounded warriors. Just as you might remember a birthday or an anniversary, a wounded soldier will never forget the day his or her life was forever changed on the battlefield. In nearly any society, those who have come into harmâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s way in the service of their country have long been honored for their sacrifices. Parades welcome them home, governments award them service medals and, for a time, they have the collective thanks of a grateful nation. But societies soon forget, and the sacrifices of the brave few are left behind, relegated to the pages of history. For the soldiers, however, they cannot forget because time does not, in fact, heal all wounds. Tom McCann refuses to accept societyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s short-term memory when it comes to the sacrifices of these brave men and women. A longtime Nantucket summer resident and international businessman, McCann found an unexpected, mid-life calling on a lazy Memorial Day afternoon here on Nantucket in 2012. Having just finished a morning of fishing with his brothers, McCann was in front of the television watching a program celebrating Memorial Day and the service of the men and women of our nationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s armed forces. What he saw that day so impacted him that he immediately set about starting Holidays for Heroes, a nonprofit organization aimed at identifying and serving wounded veterans who are adjusting to lives away from the military. The group provides a dream Nantucket vacation for soldiers, many of whom have lost limbs or experienced severe battlefield trauma. Most recently, McCann and company launched the American Dream program, which helps wounded veterans start businesses, complete their educations, and achieve their American dreams out of uniform.

N magazine

was just sitting there and it hit me,” said McCann at a small gathering of the visiting soldiers and key donors this past September. “I realized I couldn’t just sit back anymore and do nothing for these guys who’ve done much for the rest of us.” Since then, McCann, along with his co-chair Cheryl Bartlett, and his board of directors (a mix of Nantucket seasonal and year-round residents) have brought more than a dozen wounded war veterans to the island and worked with several soldiers on a day-to-day, year-round basis. “The American dream part of it is a lot of fun and it’s what I want to do with the rest of my life,” says McCann. “As long as I’m here on earth, I’m here to help these soldiers.”

U.S. Marine Lance Corporal Josh Cawthorn performed at this year’s Holidays for Heroes Gala as a member of the MusiCorps.

The first to receive the organization’s American Dream assistance were three former Marines: B. J. Ganem, Master Sergeant Davey Lind, and Corporal James Sheehan. Sheehan was nineteen years old when he joined the Marines, and the events of the morning of May 8, 2010, were what ultimately brought him and McCann together. “That was always the path I was on, and I knew that is what I wanted and needed to do my whole life,” said the Midwest native who began his military service three weeks out of high school. Near Marja, inside the Helmand Province of Afghanistan, Sheehan’s unit was ambushed while on patrol. “We began taking small-arms and RPG fire,” he recalled. “My friend got hit and when I ran down to help him I took N magazine

a 7.62 round to my hip.” From there Sheehan was transferred from hospital to hospital, receiving many sur-

geries, ultimately arriving at Walter Reed National Military Medical Center, where he remained hospitalized for several weeks, then began what would be more than a year of physical therapy. Despite what happened to him, Sheehan said he would not change a thing. Now a husband to Laura Lee, father to Annaleigh, student, and owner of a small home-inspection business, which Holiday for Heroes helped him to start, he is more motivated than ever to conquer his challenges and provide for his young family.

“I still feel the same way I did the day I went in,” Sheehan said of his service. “I don’t regret anything I’ve done. I still have that sense of patriotism and because I can’t operate the way I did before, I’ve taken my discipline to another field.” As Sheehan said to the hundreds gathered at this year’s Heroes Gala on September 13th, his determination to recover from the physical and mental traumas of his injuries has led him to bicycle three thousand miles across the United States, summit mountaintops, and build on his education. Though older and much more experienced,

Master

Sergeant Davey Lind’s story is similar to Sheehan’s, as he was injured after several

battle-zone In

McCann indicated this year’s Nantucket

the aftermath of

gala raised a large amount of money to

his injuries, he

continue their work into the next year,

also

the

and his vision has no end in sight. He

decision to pick

hopes to grow the existing program,

up the pieces and

adding soldiers to the American Dream

rise above the im-

program, along with identifying mentors

mense challenges

who can work with soldiers individu-

he faced. Lind’s

ally to achieve their desired goals. While

goal is to become

the beginnings are small, the goals are

a sponsored athlete, motivational speaker, and owner of a

great and they serve the immense needs

CrossFit franchise, all things McCann is confident they can

of a group of people who’ve given more

achieve together. These soldiers know McCann as the boldest

than we as a nation can ever repay. Tom

and most confident of men, unwilling to ever take no for an

McCann knows this and he is quick to

answer, and quick to ask, “What do you need?”

remind everyone he meets.

assignments.

made

Holidays for Heroes hosted a group of musicians this year who, while recovering at Walter Reed National Military Medical Center near Washington D.C., learn to play and perform as part of MusiCorps. A nonprofit begun by Arthur Bloom, a recent recipient of the CNN Heroes honor, MusiCorps teaches hospital-bound soldiers the skills to become proficient on a musical instrument while in recovery. More than a half-dozen scars of their devastating wounds, but determined to make the best of their circumstances.

N magazine

members traveled to Nantucket to perform, each bearing the

C Y N T H I A H AY E S INTERIOR DESIGN

401.480.5512

w w w. c y n t h i a h ay e s i d . c o m

N magazine

PROVIDENCE

NANTUCKET

N magazine

NSpire

FIGHTING

CHANCE Written by Justine Paradis

Photography by Brian Sager

Nantucket resident Andre Dobrochinski is keeping the Brazilian martial art of capoeira alive and kicking on the island.

group of children are gath-

is on. They cartwheel to the middle

adults. During warm-ups, he shifts between English and

ered in a circle, singing

and spar with spinning kicks, dodg-

Portuguese, calling the names of different movements out

Portuguese.

es, and a lunging, rhythmic step.

to his students in rapid succession. “Ginga! Cadeira! Gin-

They’re all dressed in loose white

Welcome to capoeira on Nantucket.

ga! Crabwalk! One, two, three!”

Andre Dobrochinski, who stands

Capoeira (pronounced “capa-WAY-

For Dobrochinski, capoeira isn’t a competitive sport. “We

above two students crouched in the

ah”) is an Afro-Brazilian form of

don’t play against the partner, we play with the partner,”

center of the circle. The others clap

self-defense that blends dance,

he says. Still, progressing in capoeira requires years of

in time to the twang of Dobrochin-

martial arts, and music. Dobrochin-

training. This February marks twenty years since Dobro-

ski’s berimbau, a tall, stringed mu-

ski leads a group of about twenty

chinski stumbled into the sport back home in Brazil. He

sical bow, while in the circle, the

kids on the island, all under ten

and a friend were headed to a costume party for the final

two players shake hands. The game

years old, as well as a number of

night of Carnival, a three-day celebration. They lacked

enthusiastically

uniforms, including their instructor,

costumes, but his friend’s cousin was a capoeira instructor, and he lent them uniforms for the evening on the condition that they would attend training the following morning. Dobrochinski showed up, and he hasn’t looked back. The precise origins of capoeira are difficult to determine, but its history is tied to West African traditions brought to Brazil in the trans-Atlantic slave trade, which lasted for over three hundred years. Influenced by indigenous Brazilian arts, capoeira gradually emerged on plantations and in city markets, where slaves would gather in circles, singing and dancing to disguise the fighting aspect from their masters. It became a movement of culture and deception, freedom and resistance. To this day, “the martial art is hidden behind the dance,” Dobrochinski says. After Brazilian slaves were emancipated in 1889, the country faced civil unrest, and authorities viewed capoeiristas N magazine

as troublemakers. Today, despite decades of suppres-

sion, capoeira is practiced internationally. Dobrochinski’s group is part of an organization called Abadá-Capoeira.

On Nantucket, the sport has grad-

a green-purple corda, one notch

who runs a studio in New York City. As one of few high-

ually gained popularity amongst

below full instructor. “The higher

ranking women within Abadá, she’s something of an icon.

families after Dobrochinski per-

you are, the more responsibility

Dobrochinski travels to the city to train with her at least once

formed demonstrations in island

you have.”

a month. “He’s a hard worker. Stubborn, a little bit,” says

schools. Last fall, Dobrochinski

Lima with a laugh. “Very passionate. And determined...the

organized a capoeira festival for

Dobrochinski has high hopes for

kind of student every teacher wants to have.”

a dedicated group of adults, kids,

capoeira’s future on Nantucket.

and visiting instructors. The fes-

For him, and countless others, it’s

Dobrochinski moved to Nantucket in 2006, following his

tival, or batizado (baptism), is a

more than a sport: “It’s happiness.

then girlfriend, now wife, Heloisa Boas, who helps run the

ceremony marking a student’s

It’s my moment. It’s life.” And

business. Their seven-year-old son Nickolas attends the chil-

graduation to a higher level, or

in the depths of winter, capoeira

dren’s classes. Dobrochinski makes a living as a carpenter,

corda. “The belts and levels, you

might be the best way to kick the

but whenever he’s not working or with his family, he’s prac-

can translate as responsibility,”

cold. To try your hand at capoeira

ticing capoeira. “It’s a form of escape from the real world,”

Dobrochinski explains. He wears

with Andre Dobrochiniski, visit

he says, “to recharge my battery, to work the next day.”

www.abadanantucket.com.

N magazine

His practice is overseen by Mestra (master) Edna Lima,

Nvestigate

The Way of the

alconer Written by Robert Cocuzzo

Meet the master of Nantucket’s birds of prey, Tom Mulholland Emerging from his quaint cottage in ’Sconset, Tom Mulholland has the look of a wizard who just stumbled out of The Lord of the Rings. With his long gray beard, white ponytail, and hand-hewn walking stick, Mulholland’s fairy-tale appearance is made all the more enchanting with Houdini on his arm, an old peregrine falcon he raised from a fledgling to hunt pheasants and rabbits in the forests and moors of Nantucket. When it comes to taming these wild birds of prey, Mulholland is in fact something of a wizard. He’s taught several Nantucketers the ancient art of falconry over the course of his many years on the island, including to Chris Bonelli, with whom Mulholland guides falconry tours on Nantucket.

ulholland first learned falconry, also known as hawking, from an old-timer he met in Boca Grande, Florida, fifty years ago. He left Florida in the summer of 1987 for a roofing job on Nantucket, where “they were paying one hundred dollars a square!” “That fall, all kinds of birds came through here, man, and I stayed,” Mulholland says. “There would be peregrines coming through, there would be merlins coming through. I mean, some falconers would give [anything] to see that. I mean, they really would.” Falconry spans back thousands and thousands of years, so far back in fact that historians don’t know exactly when humans started using raptors to hunt. They are in agreement, however, that two thousand years before Christ, falconry found a foothold in China and the Middle East, before flocking to parts of Europe where it became a celebrated sport of nobility. “King Frederick II [Holy Roman Emperor in early 13th century] wrote the first treatises on falconry,” Mulholland says. “He was sent by the pope to Jerusalem in the first Holy War, [but there was] no war, no one got killed. His counterpart, a Muslim, was a falconer, and so was King Frederick. They talked birds. They exchanged ideas and different ways of training, and [in the end] King Frederick traded his daughter for two gyrfalcons.” Mulholland laughs. “Those were the real diplomats, man, N magazine

you know what I’m saying?”

Mulholland now has two raptors: his trusty

diet meticulously so that when it is time to

sky, circling and waiting to pinpoint its prey.

twenty-six-year-old falcon Houdini, and a

hunt, “they don’t want to eat; they gutta eat,”

Then the red-tail flutters to a stop, closes its

young red-tailed hawk named Shaka Zulu that

Mulholland says. If you feed the bird too

wings, and dive-bombs the ground. “The red-

he caught this past spring. The master falconer

much, it will become lazy and complacent,

tail will land on a pheasant’s back, and if they

no longer hunts Houdini, on account of the

and will not hunt. “You can’t do a goddamn

can’t get a good grip, their wings beat so quick

cataract in the bird’s eye that came when an-

thing with a fat hawk, except lose your mind,”

that it’s like getting peppered by Mike Tyson,”

other raptor attacked him in the sky. This hunt-

he says. “You must watch their weight.”

Mulholland says. Other birds will go directly for the head, killing their prey instantly with their

ing season is all up to Shaka Zulu, whom Mulholland plans on releasing back to the wild this

To locate their prey, Mulholland’s beagle,

powerful talons. Each bird develops its own

spring. “This guy I’m trying to keep as wild

Chase, dives into the brush and gets on the

hunting style.

as I can, just tame enough for me to work with, but I

“It brings out the hunter

don’t want him to become

in you. It brings out the

social with me.”

life-and-death

struggle,”

Mulholland says. “You’ll As the hulking red-tailed

see stuff that if you were

snacks on frozen quail

a naturalist it may take

from Mulholland’s gloved

you a lifetime to see—and

hand, it’s a wonder the bird

you’re seeing it every day.

doesn’t attack the old man.

Flying the bird, you don’t

“He knows I’m too big

need anyone’s approval.

to eat,” Mulholland says.

It’s between you and God,

“Because he’s a wild bird,

man.” Indeed, being on the

he has a certain amount

hunt with Tom Mulholland

of fear that will always be

and his hawk is something

there.” But “if you take a

of a spiritual experience.

bird from the nest, it has

Three years ago, the fal-

no fear, and you’re noth-

coner was diagnosed with

ing but a big marshmallow.

cancer, and his take on his

A young bird taken from a

passion has evolved accord-

nest can be the most dif-

ingly. “I realized life sure

ficult bird in the world.

looked different going out

They’re not afraid of noth-

than it did coming in,” he

ing.” Mulholland knows this from experience,

scent of a rabbit or pheasant. “With the dog,

says. “One of the biggest joys I had was flying

having raised Houdini from a fledgling raptor.

the bird becomes like an athlete. You can

birds, man. That’s how you have to count your

When Houdini was injured, he became do-

take a couple rabbits a day if you wanted to,”

wealth, on the things that are natural, the things

mesticated. “Because we had him around the

Mulholland says. “When you introduce a

that you discover, that you treasure. I’d love to

house, he started getting real social with me,”

dog to the mix, it also becomes much more

get people out there just to experience it.”

Mulholland says. “He started trying to breed

civilized, man. You don’t have to go into the

on my head every time spring came around.”

bush. You can just kick back.” When Chase

To experience falconry for yourself, look

gets on the scent, the beagle starts squealing.

up Tom at Nantucket Hawking and Falconry,

The falcon-falconer relationship circles on one

Mulholland raises his gloved hand, prompt-

(508) 257-4328, www.nantuckethawkingand-

thing: food. The key is to monitor the bird’s

ing Shaka Zulu to take flight. He floats in the

falconry.com. N magazine

In the

N magazine

HEART of the

DIRECTOR Written by Robert Cocuzzo

Photography by Kit Noble

Academy Award winner Ron Howard talks about his latest film, the big-screen adaptation of Nathaniel Philbrickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s In the Heart of the Sea

NDepth his was the hardest film I’ve done since Apollo 13,” says Ron Howard, sipping coffee in the old Hawden & Barney Oil and Candle Factory inside the Nantucket Whaling Museum. Oak barrels are set behind him, along with the hulking timber of Nantucket’s old whaling industry. There could be no better setting to discuss Howard’s latest creation, his big-screen adaptation of Nathaniel Philbrick’s In the Heart of the Sea, due out in theaters next March. “There was obviously a lot of thought given to possibly trying to shoot here,” he says. “But the sad reality was that for us to retrofit, to roll a place as dynamic and specific and particular as modern Nantucket back 190 years, we might have been welcomed in, but we would have been booted out in just about no time.” Howard comes across with all the warmth and earnestness of his iconic early roles as Opie Taylor and Richie Cunningham. Indeed, the sixty-year-old has enjoyed happy days throughout his career, rising from child star to blockbuster director without the faintest whiff of scandal. He married his high-school sweetheart, raised four well-adjusted children, and has ascended to the highest ranks of Tinseltown with box-office profitability as his trademark. If there were ever a role model for making it in Hollywood, Ron Howard is it. “I’ve always been fascinated with the drama of the sea,” the director says. Two prior attempts at seafaring films never set sail, but Howard discovered a “tremendous and irresistible opportunity” with In the Heart of the Sea. “When this story came to me, it came with Chris Hemsworth attached, and I had already done Rush with him,” he says. “At first I read [the script] and didn’t know it was a true story, then I discovered that, and it became three times as enticing to me.”

N magazine

n the Heart of the Sea tells the saga of the

To help his actors understand the unimagina-

Nantucket whaleship Essex, which left

ble toils of surviving ninety days at sea, How-

port in 1819 only to be sunk by a massive bull

ard brought aboard author Steven Callahan,

sperm whale in the South Pacific. For more

who survived seventy-six days adrift on the

than ninety days, the surviving crew floated

Atlantic. “We had him around talking with

and sailed in whaleboats, battling starvation

our actors about those details and reminding

and dehydration that ultimately forced them

us in a way that being able to convey the most

into cannibalism. “I was fascinated by the

extreme versions of the human experience has

complexity of the human drama in this,” How-

real value,” Howard says. “It’s not only what it

ard says. “I was fascinated by the transforma-

means to you and your family to endure when

tion that some of the characters go through

adversity is so extreme, but it’s also what it

and some don’t during the course of their sur-

says about human beings, what it adds to the

vival.” He continues, “What takes this into the

human story.”

N magazine

realm of the unexpected, really surprising kind

of story on a human level, is that an individual

To get into their roles, Chris Hemsworth,

who endures this kind of test has no way of

the Thor star who plays first mate Owen

gauging or comprehending what it adds to this

Chase, and his fellow actors subsisted on

sort of ‘human story’ that might inspire. So in

five hundred to six hundred calories a day,

this case, had there been no Essex and no sur-

with frequent fifteen-hour fasts. “It was a

vivors, would there be a Moby-Dick? Would

combination

we know who Herman Melville is?”

and technical challenges,” Howard says.

physical,

psychological,

(Left to right) Sam Kelley as Ramsdell, Chris Hemsworth as Owen Chase and Edward Ashley as Barzillai Ray in Warner Bros. Pictures’ and Village Roadshow Pictures’ action adventure “In the Heart of the Sea,” distributed worldwide by Warner Bros. Pictures and in select territories by Village Roadshow Pictures. Photo by Jonathan Prime

A scene from “In the Heart of the Sea,” courtesy of Warner Bros. Pictures

N magazine

Director/producer Ron Howard on the set of “In the Heart of the Sea,” distributed worldwide by Warner Bros. Pictures and in select territories by Village Roadshow Pictures. Photo by Jonathan Prime

“We all had this feeling that this was a rare opportunity in this environment, this movie climate, to do something that’s bold, that is this fresh…It was a lot to live up to.” — Ron Howard

ctors and crew battled seasickness, interview. After corresponding over phone

“There we are, an hour outside London, it’s

fatigue, and dehydration, filming in and email throughout the winter of 2013,

drizzling, we’re outside, and we’re basically

giant water tanks in Warner Brothers Studios Philbrick and Howard met at Mystic Seaport

on Easy Street as if it were 1819. You know

in southeast London and on a tall ship film- in Connecticut, where they ate lunch with

Old North Wharf is Old North Wharf with

ing the whaling sequences around the Canary screenwriter Peter Morgan in the captain’s

a whaleship tied up next to it!” Philbrick

Islands off the coast of North Africa. Wind cabin of the historic whaleship Charles W.

laughed. “And of course, then Ron asked,

and weather complicated filming on the open Morgan. “They were asking me quite specific

‘Would you like to be in it?’” The author

ocean. Storms rolled in and on

questions,” Philbrick said. “It

ended up as one of the thirty Quakers in the

went from the characters, to the

scene. “Our version of the island will be

connection to Melville, to very

this industrial epicenter, a hub, and a place

ated. “It was a very ambi-

specific questions about what it

of leadership and purpose, and ambition to

tious project…a labor of

was like on Nantucket.” They

maximize what was possible, to stretch the

love,” Howard says. “We

drilled into the motivations of

all had this feeling that this

each character, the Nantucket

about the nature of the town, and more about

was a rare opportunity in

expressions they would use,

it as a place where at one time in our history

this environment, this mov-

and tried to “wring every

the economy was basically fueled.”

ie climate, to do something

last bit of anguish” from

that’s bold, that is this fresh…

each scene. “You can’t

“I want my audiences to have an experi-

It was a lot to live up to.”

make a movie without tak-

ence and be swept up in it,” Howard says.

ing liberties—look at any

“Whether it’s fires [Backdraft], or a box-

movie,” Philbrick said, when asked

ing ring [Cinderella Man], or a mathemati-

challenge was Nantucket’s own Nathaniel about the script’s historical accuracy. “The

cian’s mind [A Beautiful Mind], or a space

Philbrick, whom the director praises as a truly big concern for me was that they be true to

capsule [Apollo 13], or a Formula 1 cockpit

gifted storyteller in his own right. Philbrick the spirit of the book and the essence. And

[Rush]—I want people to feel it.” Indeed,

won the National Book Award for Nonfic- they have been.”

Ron Howard has an extraordinary ability to

tion for In The Heart of the Sea in 2000, and

transport audiences and shed a unique light

sold the rights to the film a year later. “I must Philbrick got to see this spirit firsthand that

on the human spirit. For Nantucketers, his

admit, after more than a decade of not much following November when he and his wife

latest creation will take us back to a world

happening, I had begun to have my doubts Melissa traveled to Southeast London, where

that is both foreign and familiar while ex-

about the story ever becoming an actual mov- Howard had recreated downtown Nantucket

posing a far broader audience to the rich his-

ie,” the bestselling author told me in an earlier with “all the muck and mire” of the 1820s.

tory of this island.

one occasion actors and

dlareme

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N magazine

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Ndepth

AN ISLAND UNTO ITSELF Written by Robert Cocuzzo

Photography by Kit Noble & Steve Hollister

Thirty-four years ago, Muskeget was named a National Natural Landmark. A GROUP OF LOCAL KAYAKERS SET OUT TO DISCOVER WHY. dventure travel seems to imply a far-off destina-

We set out from Littleneck Landing in Madaket Har-

tion,” wrote legendary travel writer Paul Ther-

bor just past midday, with the tide running in our favor

oux, “but a nearby destination can be scarier, for

and a light wind at our backs. Paddling along the cusp

no place is more frightening than one near home that

of the channel in Madaket Harbor, we passed schools

everyone has warned you against.” Theroux was em-

of snapper blues snacking on sand eels on the surface.

barking on a kayak trip from Cape Cod to Nantucket

An hour later we met the shores of Tuckernuck. More

when he wrote this. Along the way, he encountered a

experienced, adventuresome kayakers might set a

mysterious island so flat and treeless that it barely broke

course around the south of the island, exiting through

the horizon. “By midmorning I was paddling off Mus-

the opening between Smith Point and Tuckernuck’s

geket [sic],” he wrote, “one of the most remote and least

Whale Shoal, and then heading to Muskeget by way of

visited pieces of land for hundreds of miles—just a low

the open Atlantic. But with our kayaks filled to the gun-

ledge in the sea.” For a group of local kayakers, this

nels with gear, we opted for the safer route, sneaking

“low ledge in the sea” proved the perfect waypoint for

along the protected shallows to the north of the island.

finding adventure in our own backyard this off-season.

We paddled past stately homes perched over the bluff where families splashed in the water below. An old man pushed a clamming rack. All were reluctant to return our waves, staring at us curiously as if we were the first pilgrims coming to the new land.

N magazine

Steve Hollister (middle) and Brad Nolen (right) paddling to Muskeget.

uskeget emerged from the ocean to our

many there are exactly, we can’t be sure, as an ac-

injury. I remembered what shark expert Greg

northwest, pancake-flat, a lone structure

curate census hasn’t been conducted. What is cer-

Skomal told me about sharks in these waters.

breaking the horizon. The tide was pour-

tain is that Muskeget has become the largest seal-

“If everything plays out as it should, then there

breeding colony in the country.

should be lots of white sharks around that is-

ing in around the southwest corner of Tucker-

N magazine

nuck, creating an obstacle course of current as we

land,” he said. “But Muskeget is very shallow.

paddled on towards Muskeget. Grey seals popped

It was hard to stroke through the inky black

There are lots of shoals and sandbars and it’s

up all around us, big, curious “horseheads.” The

waters of Muskeget Channel without thinking

not easy access for animals that don’t want to

seal population has exploded in these waters

that where there are seals, there must be sharks.

be in shallow, shallow water. So Muskeget may

over the last decade. “There were nineteen grey

Just two days earlier, a great white attacked two

never become a white-shark hotspot.” I was

seals on the island in 1994,” Muskeget’s majority

kayakers paddling a hundred yards off shore in

banking on that to hold true.

landowner, Crocker Snow, Jr. told me. “Now it’s

Plymouth, Massachusetts. The shark took a bite

3,500 to 5,000 during the breeding time.” How

of the hull, but thankfully both women escaped

Dragging our kayaks on the shores of Mus-

It’s a far cry from the island’s early days, back

up land to create the Muskeget Island Club, a

ers.

keget, we discovered another world. The three-

in the mid-1800s, when Muskeget was pretty

hunting preserve that would host bird shooting.

ere

hundred-acre, twenty-foot-high spit of sand is

much up for grabs, and local fishermen and

The club expanded from two modest buildings

is-

home to pirate spiders, endangered piping plov-

hunters built scalloping shacks where they saw

to a veritable compound complete with bunk

ow.

ers, roseate and Arctic terns, and an extremely

fit. Not surprisingly, the matter of ownership

rooms and a boathouse. Local fishermen were

it’s

rare species of rodent that exists no where else

became complicated and contentious, with

outraged, and an epic feud ensued that saw

t to

in the world called the Muskeget beach vole. As

hundreds of heirs claiming a sliver of the island

court battles and at least one instance of a lo-

may

far as humans go, however, the island is entirely

as their own.

cal Nantucketer’s Muskeget retreat being set

was

uninhabited. When once there were nineteen or

ablaze.

so fishermen shanties scattered about the beach

In the 1890s, a group of Boston sportsmen set

grass and poison ivy, now there are but two, each

out to take advantage of Muskeget’s abundant

teetering on the edge of a watery extinction.

waterfowl and hired a Nantucket lawyer to buy

N magazine

reg

e on 929

oday the only sign of the Mus-

only structure Crocker, Sr. predicted

beach grass. One study, however, has

keget Hunting Club is a lone

would survive. Over sixty years later,

amazingly eluded Snow: the impact of

Coast Guard boathouse built

that same boathouse has been moved

the seal population on this fragile island

in 1910 that now sits precariously at

twice, most recently this past October.

environment.

the island’s eastern edge. In 1949–50,

Snow and his five sons traditionally

an industrious Ipswich-based aviator

enjoy spending Thanksgiving there.

As the seal population has grown, more

named Crocker Snow, Sr. bought the

The island itself has also moved over

of the island has been taken up during

boathouse along with seven other struc-

the years. Erosion has reshaped and

the winter for breeding. “They’re go-

tures and fifty percent of the island for

migrated the island to the east, so that

ing more and more inland,” Snow says,

the Snows now own 2/3 of

“knocking down the grass and the spar-

the island, and the town of

tina and going into the freshwater ponds

Nantucket owns the rest.

that the rest of the island depends on.” Snow has also witnessed aggressive be-

Crocker Snow, Jr. has be-

havior from eight-hundred-pound bull

come a steward to the natu-

seals that will often kill seal pups to

ral wonders of Muskeget,

mate with their mothers. They’ve also

which was named a Na-

become more territorial. “When you’re

N magazine

in the middle of it, it’s quite

$15,000. He split the cost with two

amazing,” Snow says. “It’s

other partners, $5,000 a piece. His

like being in the Galapa-

son Crocker, Jr. still remembers

gos. The smell everywhere.

first touching down on Muskeget

They’re very vocal at times.

when he was just ten years old

It’s pretty overpowering.” As

with his father behind the controls

a member of the Seal Aware-

of a Piper Cub. “He dropped me

ness Coalition, Snow is now

there alone and went back to Nantucket

tional Natural Landmark in 1980. In

pushing for a formal study of Muskeg-

[to get supplies],” Snow remembers.

collaboration with the Nantucket Land

et’s seals and their impact on his island

“It was like the old Hitchcock movie

Council and Nantucket Land Bank,

and beyond.

Birds; there were seagulls everywhere

Snow succeeded in having a conserva-

and they were bombing us...at the time

tion restriction placed on the island in

In the meantime, this remote island re-

the island was the biggest herring-gull

2009. Over the years, he’s hosted many

mains a place of wonder, a rare window

rookery in the East Coast.”

scientists at his boathouse, who come to

into what Nantucket might have been

the island to study everything from the

like in the beginning. And as with all

The Snows spent two days shoveling

Muskeget beach vole to the rare species

things built of sand, who knows how

seagull poop out of the boathouse, the

of pirate spiders that crawl through the

long it will be around.

The U.S. Life Saving station on Muskeget; a hunting party at Adolph Ottison’s house on Muskeget Island in 1929; Muskeget lifesaving crew. Images courtesy of the Nantucket Historical Association.

N magazine

Special thanks to Brad Nolen and Kevin Sumner for serving as our unofficial kayak guides, and thanks to Crocker Snow Jr. for sharing his island with N Magazine. For more information on Muskeget’s history, pick up a copy of The Forgotten Island by Edward Wayman Coffin, which served as the backbone of this writer’s research.

LYNX to the

PAST Written by Robert Cocuzzo

Photography by Kit Noble

On the 200th anniversary of the Battle of Nantucket, a replica Baltimore Clipper of the privateer Lynx gives a fitting salute

Ndepth

sk someone on the street to name a

Helping bridge the gap between the 1800s and

major battle in the War of 1812 and

the modern day is Donald Peacock, the presi-

you will most likely just get a blank stare in

dent of the Lynx Educational Foundation. Pea-

response. There’s no Gettysburg or D-Day

cock is a lifelong Nantucket summer resident

that sticks out in our national consciousness

and is largely to thank for the Lynx’s presence

when it comes to this so-called “Second War

around the island. In collaboration with the

of Independence” fought between the United

Egan Maritime Institute’s Sea of Opportuni-

States and England over free trade and sailors’

ties, the Great Harbor Yacht Club, and private

rights. For Nantucketers, this disconnect with

on-island supporters, Peacock and the Sea of

our history is especially striking, as one of

Opportunities brought the Lynx to Nantucket

the greatest battles of the War of 1812 just so

to take a group of island scholars on the ride

happened to be fought directly off our shores.

of their lives this August. Four students sailed

In fact, one of the island’s own sons was on

from Nantucket to Mystic Seaport, where

board during this naval engagement in which a

they tied up along the historic whaleship, the

crew of thirty-six Americans valiantly fought

Charles W. Morgan. On their return voyage,

off five barges of 150 British soldiers. Histo-

they caught a mako shark that they ate right

rians say the Battle of Nantucket exemplified

on the deck. Since then Peacock and his crew

the determination of our fledgling nation and

have taken hundreds of Nantucketers onboard

helped turn the tides of the war.

the Lynx. “I have been enriched all of my life by Nantucket,” Peacock says. “This is my gift

Keeping this history alive in a dramatic way

back to the place I love the most in the world…

is the privateer Lynx, which sailed around Nan-

[I’m] so fortunate to be in a position of run-

tucket’s waters throughout this summer and

ning a tall ship that I can give back through a

fall. On October 11th at 8 p.m., the Lynx com-

significant maritime experience.”

memorated the 200th anniversary of the Battle of Nantucket by firing a cannon blast for every

Peacock’s passion for tall ships and the Lynx

minute of the bloody engagement. The Lynx was

fills his sails. “When Captain Douglas sailed

built in Rockport, Maine, in 2001 using plans

the Shenandoah around Brant Point when I

drawn up by the British when they captured the

was twelve years old and I was standing on

original Lynx on Rappahannock River back in

Straight Wharf, my knees buckled,” he says

1813. As a result, the 122-foot privateer clipper

breathlessly. The fifty-seven-year-old has

schooner sails through the water as it did two

maritime history in his blood. His great-great-

hundred years ago, but instead of running British

grandfather, George Foster Emmons, was an

blockades, this Lynx is teaching students about

admiral in the Navy who rescued every man

the War of 1812 and American exceptionalism

off the U.S.S. Peacock when it ran aground

through traditional sailing on the high seas.

in 1841. As fate would have it, Emmons’s granddaughter married a man named Peacock.

Climbing aboard, one is met with a colorful crew

Thus Donald Emmons Peacock, now the pres-

dressed in historic garb. Captain Erik Lohse

ident of the Lynx.

mans the helm in a regal, gold-buttoned peacoat, while his crew scurries around the deck, ready-

After his son sailed aboard the Lynx as volun-

ing to set sail. Everything aboard the vessel is

teer crew, Peacock and his wife Nancy got in-

authentic, including the orders the first mate calls

volved as “tall-ship parents” when the clipper

out to his crew. They hoist the sails, pulling in

docked in their home port of Portsmouth, New

passengers to share the load. “Two! Six! Two!

Hampshire. The founder of Lynx Educational

Six!”

Foundation, Woodson K. Woods, recognized Peacock’s great passion for the tall-ship experience and its rich history, and brought him on the board of directors. When Woods retired, Peacock took the helm.

s the Lynx sails into Nantucket Sound, Peacock brings passengers back in time to 1812, explaining how President James Madison declared war over economic and maritime grievances. The British were restricting American trade to Europe through what were known as the Orders of Council. The British were also notorious for boarding American vessels and impressing its crew into their Navy. The decision to go to war passed by a tiny margin, leading to an American attack on Canada, the closest place the Americans could strike the British. The massive British Navy responded by setting up a blockade up and down the eastern seaboard, putting a stranglehold on Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s commerce. The countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s answer to the blockade was the Baltimore clipper schooner, a vessel so fast and agile that it could outrun any ship on the sea.

These privateers eventually petitioned

and Thomas Hilburn to pilot the two ves-

on the deck of the Prince and the battle

the secretary of the Navy to allow them

sels. Charles took the helm of Prince de

was on. It raged for thirty-five bloody

to commandeer British vessels and keep

Neufchatel, while Thomas jumped aboard

minutes. When the smoke cleared, more

a percentage of the booty. A period of le-

the Douglas.

than one hundred British were wounded or

galized piracy ensued, with privateers like

killed, compared to the nine fallen Ameri-

the Lynx plundering the British on the high

As they were sailing, the Prince de Neuf-

cans. Among the American dead was Nan-

seas and imprisoning their men. Of these

chatel was spotted by the HMS Endymion,

tucketer Charles Hilburn.

privateers, few were more feared than the

a fierce British vessel with long-range

Prince de Neufchatel, captained by the

guns. Normally, the Prince would just out-

This is just one of the many rich historical

“Sea Wolf,” John Ordronaux.

run the Endymion, but there was no wind,

links that Don Peacock and the Lynx are

so Ordronaux was forced to use another

keeping alive during their year-round trav-

In October 1814, Ordronaux was sailing

one of Nantucket’s natural defenses—the

els. Since 2001, this Baltimore clipper has

Prince de Neufchatel around Nantucket

fog. He abandoned the Douglas, which

sailed through the Panama Canal twice,

with thirty-eight British soldiers in his

sailed to the eastern side of the island and

Hawaii three times, Vancouver, and even

hold and their vessel, Douglas, in tow.

unloaded its spoils of rum, molasses, and

as far as the forty-six-degree water of Lake

Seeking to navigate Nantucket’s treacher-

cotton to the starving Nantucket commu-

Superior—all for educational purposes.

ous shoals and run the British blockade to

nity. Ordronaux tucked the Prince into the

Hopefully, we’ll be seeing her majestic

get his prize back to Boston, Ordronaux

foggy banks along Tom Nevers Head and

sails on our horizon again soon.

enlisted two Nantucket brothers, Charles

waited. At 8 p.m. a grappling hook landed

MAY 13 - 17, 2015

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ÂŠ 2014 Kerry Hallam

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316 Newbury Street | Boston, MA 02115 | 617.901.7600 |www.bostonrealestate.net

away

A WORLD

Written and Photographed by Terry Pommett

Longtime Nantucket photographer Terry Pommett explores the faraway kingdom of Bhutan.

World travel, as a cultural phenomenon, has exploded in the 21st century. Lands that were mysterious, difficult to get to, and experienced by just a small number of travelers have now been opened to the masses. Exotic destinations have become a glossy Travel and Leisure checklist from the Congo to the Amazon, the Arctic to the Andes. For an obsessive freelance wanderer such as myself, the indescribable feeling of encountering a pristine environment and unpolluted culture has become a thing of the past. That was until last spring, when I found myself over seven thousand miles away from Nantucket, in the faraway kingdom of Bhutan.

Nventure

Bhutanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most celebrated monastery, Tigerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Nest (Taktshang Goemba), clings to a cliff 1500 feet above the Paro Valley. Legend says that Guru Rinpoche, who introduced Budhism to the country in 746, arrived here on the back of a tigress to defeat a local demon.

hutan was a pleasant surprise and

Bhutan is one of the leaders in proactive conservation initia-

reminder that there are still pock-

tives in the Eastern Himalayas. Written into their constitution is

ets of travel purity to be found in the modern

the stipulation that sixty-five percent of the land area must re-

wired world. This tiny Himalayan kingdom of

main forested, with forty percent of its territory set aside as na-

900,000 is sandwiched between China and In-

tional parks, nature preserves, and biodiversity corridors. This

dia, and as such acts as a buffer between the

concern for the environment is one of the tenets of their gross

two powerful rivals. In many ways it has the

national happiness index, a concept that measures the well-be-

feel of Tibet, without Chinese suppression. The

ing of the citizens. The four pillars of the GNH index are good

predominant religion is Buddhism, and many

governance, sustainable socio-economic development, cultural

of the country’s architectural treasures—for-

preservation, and environmental conservation. Makes one won-

tress temples called dzongs—date back to the

der how Nantucket’s own GNH index would compare.

seventeenth century.

The country’s two main attractions are its natural environment and its Buddhist culture. Bhutan is not a country one goes to for nightlife or cuisine. It’s difficult to get to, and it is definitely not a backpacker or budget-travel destination. The government imposes a daily tariff of $250 per diem for group tours, and $300 for individuals or couples. However, if you are looking for a place to be active every day, whether exploring temples, national parks, or trekking, the cost is not unreasonable. The per diem covers the cost of a three-star hotel, three meals a day, a private SUV with a driver, and an interpreter guide.

The country is going through a transitional period politically and socially. It has moved from an absolute monarchy to a constitutional monarchy, with many reforms coming from the thirty-three-year-old king Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, a graduate of Phillips Academy and Wheaton College in Massachusetts and Oxford University in England. His challenge will be to guide his people on a path to modernization without losing the country’s cultural and religious identity. It was only in 1999 that he opened his country to television and the Internet. In fact, the Nantucket Film Festival will present an outstanding documentary highlighting Bhutan’s tentative adaption of modern-world society in a beautifully shot film entitled Happiness. (Above) Photos of the king and queen of Bhutan can be seen hanging in every village and town. The handsome and modern young couple are the most beloved royals in the country’s history. (Right) Three-century-old fresco in the Namkhe Nyingpo monastery in Jakar, Bumthang Province.

(Top) Buddhist student studying scripture at the Chimel Khakhang Monastery, dedicated to the saint Drukpa Kunley, also known as the divine Madman. (Bottom) Black Hat dancer performs at the Paro Tshechu, one of the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most popular festivals.

(Above) Passing through virgin pine and rhododendron forests to an altitude of 13,000 feet, it is one of the most popular excursions referred to as the Druk trek. (Below) The writer and his support team break camp on a five-day trek from Paro to Thimphu.

he tourist ministry makes no secret of its intentions to attract a higher economic level of tourist. It looked around at its neighbors Nepal and Sikkim and saw how the cultural degradation took place from rampant tourism, and decided to go its own way. The approach reminds me of the godfather of modern Nantucket tourism, Walter Beinecke. To paraphrase his outlook, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d rather see five people with a hundred bucks in their pocket get off the boat, than a hundred people with five.â&#x20AC;?

The key to enjoying Bhutan is to just get out

day, you can view the majestic snow-covered

In planning a trip to Bhutan, be aware of the

there, walk the streets, hike the countryside, and

peak of 24,000-foot Jomolhari. At lower al-

seasonal limitations. September to November

trek. Even a one- or two-day trek should be man-

titudes, the trees and paths are covered with a

is the best time for trekking, with warm days,

datory. There is much in rural Bhutan that hasn’t

primeval type of moss.

chilly nights, and crystal-clear skies. March to

changed in centuries. Aside from having a driv-

May are generally warmer. Vistas of wildflow-

er in a new SUV, here is where your per diem

Not all treks involve high altitude. One of the

ers abound, but views come with more fog. Win-

can really pay off. A pack team of four horses,

most spectacular sights in all of Bhutan, the

ters are cold and summers are monsoon rainy.

a cook, and a camp organizer are included for

Tiger’s Nest Monastery (Taktshang Goemba),

That should not pose a problem for Nantucket-

most available treks throughout the country.

is located twenty-five minutes outside of Para.

ers, who generally have no time to travel dur-

A winding trail through pine forests, 1,200 feet

ing the hectic summer months anyway. Bhutan

The Druk Path trek is considered the most popu-

above the valley floor, brings you to the holy site

is as close as one can get to the Western fantasy

lar trek for tourists. It can be completed in four

festooned with prayer flags and lined with prayer

of Shangri-La. Nothing seems to be jaded here.

to six days depending on your stamina. Hiking

wheels. The structure is magically perched on

There is purity to the air and to the attitude of the

uphill is hard on the lungs, downhill is a test for

the edge of a sheer cliff face. On your return

people that I haven’t encountered in many other

the knees. There are two passes you climb to,

descent there is a welcoming teahouse several

places.

both around twelve thousand feet. The rewards

hundred meters below the Tiger’s Nest. Here

are breathtaking, passing through pine, fir, and

you can have lunch and gaze at the Paro Valley

dwarf rhododendron forests, mountaintop mon-

below while marveling at the monastery’s pre-

asteries, and crystal mountain lakes. On a clear

carious location.

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Treasures of the

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Island

Handcrafted gem stone earrings by Victoria Greenhood.

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Photography by Kit Noble

Styled by Paulette Chevalier & Jackie Basso

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Ruby Sputnik Ring ($13,200) & Ruby Sputnik Earrings ($15,000) from Seamen Schepps. Red Scarf from Isabel Harvey.

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Multicolor Bubble Bracelet ($34,000) & Multicolor Bubble Earrings ($15,000) from Seamen Schepps/Trianon.

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Six strand sapphire & diamond necklace, 18k white gold ($11,000) from Pageo. Cream Scarf from Isabel Harvey

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Four row blue sapphire & diamond bracelet, 18k white gold ($5,000) from Pageo. Diamond rings from Pageo.

18K white gold, .26ct, $1980

(Clockwise from top) 5.5 Ct Aquamarine set in 18Kt gold â&#x20AC;&#x153;Georgetteâ&#x20AC;? Band ($2,850); Afghani Mint Tourmaline and two brilliant cut blue zircon set in a custom 18Kt Gold Band ($4,500); 6 Carat Oval Yellow Beryl with Blue Zircon set in 18kt yellow gold. ($4000); Square Cut Aquamarine Set in 18kt gold Nantucket Basket Band(TM) ($2,500); Australian Boulder Opal set in 18kt yellow gold Hammered 4 Band Ring. $2600 from Susan Lister Locke Gallery.

Club Car necklace ($298.00) from Isabel Harvey.

Faceted black spinel lariat necklace with 18 k gold, ($2,200); three 22K gold bangles ($1,800 - 2,800) by Deborah Lockhart Phillips of The Lockhart Collection.

Nantucket nights earrings($88); King of the Castle bracelet ($248); and Scrolls of Ivy bracelet ($248) from Isabel Harvey. Vintage grapes necklace of 1940s brass and sterling ($425)from CurrentVintage.

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Faceted rose quartz necklace ($225), faceted quartz necklace ($225), stud and jacket rose quartz earrings ($135) by Heidi Weddendorf.

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Forbidden fruit apple ring in ruby and tsvaroite, emerald and ruby drops with diamonds earrings, and Wildflower jade ring worn between the finger in solid 18K gold from Barbara Harris Water Jewels.

N Magazine Gold Party

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Alex Kopko & the Golden Girls

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Boston Pops on Nantucket

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Peter Beaton & Caleagh Cazzetta

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Rachel Keith, Kate Monahan & Bob Monahan

Terry Sanford, Robert Devine, Brad Guidi, Amy Guidi, Michael Lorber, Marla Sanford, Kerri Landry & Adam Scott

Nellie Ogara, Elle Foley, Kevin Hickey, Barbara & David Spitler

Jarett Odrich & Lauren Schwabe

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Cate & Adam Brinch

Ben Holland & Laura Recoder

Peter Halle & Carolyn Lamm

97 Photos by Brian Sager

Boston Pops on Nantucket

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Julia McKown, Gigi Diserio, Sophia Diserio & Eliza Mckown

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Beth Garvin & Dr. Rita Chrappa

Nathan Allen, Mr. & Mrs. Michael Roberts

Brooke Monahan & Rachel Keith

Cotton Harrold, Kelly Monahan, Helana Kuhn & David Herlinger

Christopher & Elizabeth Quick

Madelyn Korengold & Jon Terbell

Carolyn Zimmer, Meridith Franco & Isabella Zimmer

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Great Point Trustees Annual Event

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William Kupper, Mark McKerrow, Jean Grimmer & Mark Goldweitz

Sarah Maneikas & Evelyn MacEachern

Frank & Georgine Anton

Peter Torrebiarte, Jennifer Kinsman & Barbara Erickson

Adam Crawford & Jesse Lang

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Peter Dow, Kenneth Roman, Whitney Dow & John Gould

100

Gary Beller, Deborah Carter & Ginny Whalen

Jennifer & Greg Murphy & Kendal Photos by Brian sager

Photo by Jeffrey Allen Photography

Photo by Zofia & Co.

Photo by Claudia Kronenberg

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Not on Nantucket? Pick up a copy of N Magazine online. N-Magazine.com

Photo by Runaway Bride Nantucket

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Nantucket Music Festival VIP Event

Foggysheet nantucket

Brie & Guido Munoz

Ellie Nan Storck

Bob Lahey, Cynthia Dareshori, Margret Mitchell & Freddy Clarke

Greg Ortega & Kate Kova

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Alexandra, Brandon & Gary Niederarer

102

Hebe Dickens & Ben Thornewill

Danielle & Peter Karlson

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Laura Homan & Susan Hostetler

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Jen Shalley & Marjan Shirzad

103 Photos by Brian Sager

2014

Festival ofDecember Trees 5–31 Whaling Museum | 13 Broad Street

Preview Party

Thursday, December 4, 6–8 P.M. at the Whaling Museum

A Night of Holiday Magic Presented by

Saturday, December 13, 5–8 P.M. A special family evening filled with the sights & sounds of the holidays.

›› Free for all children and NHA Members

$5 for nonmember adults

Festival of Trees Dates December 5 Friday 10 A.M.–8 P.M

December 6–28

Friday, Saturday, Sunday 10 A.M–5 P.M.

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›› Free for all children under 6 and NHA Members

104

NANTUCKET HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION

December 29–31 Monday–Wednesday 10 A.M.–5 P.M.

Nantucket Year-Round Residents $5

General Admission $20

nha.org (508) 228–1894

NHA

Timeless Toys There’s nothing like a shiny new toy under the tree to make a tiny tot’s

eyes glow during the holiday season. From baby dolls and carriages, to rocking horses and toy boats, the simplest of toys provided hours of enjoyment during a long Nantucket winter. Take a look at some of these children’s playful belongings from years past…

N magazine

Images courtesy of the Nantucket Historical Association

105

Child with a doll, ca 1850s Interior of the NHA Museum Shop during the holidays, 1980s

Entry for the Doll Carriage Parade, 1938 Tony Sargâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Shop on Steamboat Wharf at the corner of Easy Street, 1930s

Tony Sarg with some of his marionettes, ca. 1935

Pull toy cart with 4 wheels and a seated driver figure hitched to a horse on a platform from Tony Sarg. Ready for entry in the Doll Carriage Parade, 1937

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Riding a rocking horse, ca. 1900

106

Race-car driver, ca 1950 Furnished dollhouse of 25 Pleasant Street, made by Robert Caldwell.

Tea party for the younger set, ca. 1910

Toy collection at the Hadwen House, ca. 1970s

Two women and a boy with a model ship, ca 1890s Boys looking at toys in Tony Sargâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Shop at 38 Centre Street, ca. 1935

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Toddler holding a doll, ca. 1895

107

Nuptials Featured Wedding

Bride & Groom: Jennifer Akins and Jim Febeo Dress: Vera Wang Suit: Ralph Lauren Ceremony: Rev. Gary Klingsporn Caterer: A Taste of Nantucket Flowers: Soiree Floral Band: Sultans of Swing Invitations: Parchment

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Photographer: Nathan Coe

108

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Written by Holly Finigan Photography by Charlotte Carey Photography

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Winter on Nantucket is one of the most beautiful times on the island. I love a good snowstorm on ACK, and last winter we sure got our fair share of seeing the little Grey Lady covered in white. It’s easy to make plans to make no plans and spend days getting lost in Netflix series or reading all those novels that have been stacked up on your Kindle. But these chilly months are also great times to get out and spend quality time in the community. Here, I’ll give you five spots to hang out at and get cozy, so when Jack Frost comes around, you’ll know where to spend your days (and nights) warming up!

Place: Handlebar Cafe Perfect for: Hot chocolate and a sweet workspace Why you gotta get out of the house: Sick of doing all your work from your couch? In need of some stimulation in a cool space where you can have meetings and be inspired? Check out the Handlebar Cafe on 15 Washington Street. Listen to good tunes and sit in their comfy chairs as your computer gets killer wifi. Sip on a hot drink while being inspired by the others who are working from their computers, too. (And maybe do some vacation research!)

Place: Centre Street Bistro Perfect for: A good meal and a girlie lunch date Why you gotta get out of the house: Not only does Centre Street Bistro have a delicious lunch menu, but their six specials change daily and include homemade soups that you must savor. I’m a big fan of their Thursday lunches, with their infamous tomato soup. So grab a girlfriend and enjoy catching up in their sweet dining room. And if you really want to celebrate while you warm up, bring a bottle of pinot noir…they’re BYOB! (BONUS: they do fantastic take-out if you’re not in the mood to socialize.)

Place: Cisco Brewers Perfect for: Afternoon libations + live music Why you gotta get out of the house: Cisco Brewers is a hopping summer hotspot, but in the winter, it becomes an intimate place to enjoy some brews and some bourbon as you kick back and relax and listen to live music in the comforts of their brewery and distillery. I love a good hot drink, and last winter, the brewery made great spiced hot cider that warmed the soul and tasted like heaven!

Place: Sushi By Yoshi Perfect for: Chicken udon bowl + hot tea Why you gotta get out of the house: Trying to eat healthy, but still want to dine out? Head on over to the newly reopened and renovated SUSHI BY YOSHI on East Chestnut Street. When I’m in the mood for a nice, light bite and some green tea, I relish the alone time to sit at their adorable four-seat bar and enjoy a delicious bowl of chicken udon bowl with a yummy broth and tons of veggies! And of course, if you’re just trying to enjoy some more down time at your house, they also do a great take out.

Place: The Seconds Shop Perfect for: Shopping on a budget Why you gotta get out of the house: I love a good bargain, and in the off season I’m always looking for a reason to save a couple bucks, but still be able to shop local. That’s why I enjoy shopping at the new location of the Seconds Shop next to the new Cumberland Farms on Sparks Avenue. You can find a plethora of gorgeous clothing and accessories (many still with the tags on it) for a super discounted rate. Spent a snow day cleaning out your closet? Drop off your used clothes and home goods at the Seconds Shop. All proceeds benefit the Family & Children’s Services of Nantucket, so you’re really doing good while you spend!

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NOT SO FAST

bell closing

A quick chat with Nantucket’s Town Crier, Eric Goddard N Magazine: How did you become Town Crier?

Eric Goddard: I wasn’t paying attention when they told a group of us

N Magazine: What do you love most about Nan-

tucket Stroll?

Eric Goddard: Seeing the children react to Santa Claus’s arrival.

to step back if you don’t want to be Crier.

N Magazine: Do you have an “in” with the big man?

N Magazine: What inspired you to

Eric Goddard: Yep.

take up the bell and top hat?

Eric Goddard: Our previous Crier Curtis Barnes asked if I’d be in-

N Magazine: What’s your favorite Stroll memory? Eric Goddard: Many years ago, long before I be-

terested in taking over after his

came Crier, there was a Stroll Saturday that

thirty-plus years. I consider it to be

was overcast, completely calm, and right on

an honor.

the cusp of freezing. Early afternoon big, beautiful, fluffy snowflakes came floating down....

N Magazine: What are your responsibilities? Eric Goddard: Town tree lighting ceremony,

magical.

Christmas Stroll, red ticket drawing, Boston

N Magazine: Why is the Stroll weekend important

Pops, Daffodil, and a few calls for weddings.

to our community?

Eric Goddard: It’s really just a wonderful weekN Magazine: What’s the tradition you are carrying

end to come together and feel the magic of the

on?

Christmas season.

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Eric Goddard: As far as we know, there has been

112

a Nantucket Town Crier for the last couple

N Magazine: What was your favorite present you

of centuries, the most famously eccentric of

ever received during the holidays?

which was a man named Billy Clark (1846-

Eric Goddard: A puppy. When I was ten or so I

1909), who served from the late 1800s until his

thought my Aunt Jane forgot me after all my

death.

sisters received their gifts....then out came Peanut.

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113

N magazine

N Magazine ADVERTISING DIRECTORY

114

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N TOM McCANN Holidays for Heroes

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