A FEAST FOR

Food always tastes better in the season it was intended to be eaten in. ~Brigit Binns

A Feast for All Seasons Embracing the Rainbow Year Round

by April Thompson N omatterwherewelive,eating seasonallyinwinterdoesn’thave tobeboringorlimiting;aculinaryadventureawaitsthehomechefthat’s willingtoleaveavocadosandasparagus totheirrightfulseasonsandembracethe winterrainbowofbittergreens,sweet potatoes,sunnycitrusandfuchsiabeets, amongothertimelydelicacies. “Sometimespeoplethinkofwinter foodsasbrownandsoftandboring,and it’sabsolutelynotthecase.Winterbrings brightthingslikepomegranates,beetsand citrus,whichoffercolorandacidity,”says BrigitBinns,thePasoRobles,California authorof30cookbooks,includingCooking in Season: 100 Recipes for Eating Fresh. Eatingseasonallyisespeciallyimportantinwinter,saysShannonStonger ofTexas,authorofSimple Food for Winter: 30 Grain-Free Recipes to Get You Through the Dark Days.“Winterfoods likefermentedvegetables,rootvegetables, squashesandhardygreensareespecially helpfulinthecolder,darkermonths,when ourbodiesareinneedofcomfortfoods aswellaspre-andprobioticfoods,”says Stonger,ahomesteaderandfounderofthe blogNourishingDays.com. Thereareplentyofotherreasonsto sticktoaseasonaldietinwinter,addsBinns. “Foodalwaystastesbetterintheseason itwasintendedtobeeatenin.Seasonal foodsarenaturallyripened,ratherthan harvestedearlyandtruckedin.Inaddition toenhancedflavor,eatingseasonallyhelps minimizeuseoffossilfuelstobringour foodtous,andislikelytobelessexpensive.”

Winterizing the Kitchen

Muchofthefallharvest,particularlyroot vegetables,storeswellthroughthewinter (hencetheideaofarootcellar),extendingproduceacrossseasons,accordingto StevenSatterfield,chefandauthorofRoot to Leaf: A Southern Chef Cooks Through the Seasons.Therearelotsofrootvegetablesbeyondjustcarrotsandpotatoesto beenjoyedinwinter,includingsunchokes, parsnipsandturnips,whichcanbeused creativelyratherthan“boiledtodeath,” saysSatterfield.Forexample,theAtlanta restaurateurincorporatesparsnipsintoan upside-downcakewithwinterspiceslike nutmeg,blackpepperandginger. Binnslikestoaddtexturetowinter disheswithnuts,colorwithherbs,and crunchwithawintervegetablelikefennel. Warmingsoupsarealwayscomforting duringthecoldestseason,butshealsolikes warmsalads,likeabeetandescarolesalad drizzledwithawarmsherryvinaigrette. Satterfieldsuggeststhatspecialty citruslikebloodoranges,Meyerlemons andcross-hybridizedvarietiessuchas tangelosandpomelosarefuntointerspersewithwintervegetablestomaximize brightnessandfreshness.Alotofwinter producecanbegreatinrawformaswell, headds,includingBrusselssprouts,rutabagaordaikonradish,shavedthinlyor juliennedintoasalad. Wintersquashisafavoritestapleof theStongerfamilyinthecoolermonths. “Itiseasytogrow,easytostoreandso deliciouslysweetandrich.Weroastitas asidedish,mashitasasortofbreakfast porridgeormakesoupsandcurriesfrom it,”saysStonger. Satterfieldsuggestsusingallthe partsofwintervegetablestomaximize theharvestandminimizefoodwaste. Forexample,theseedsofwintersquashes canberoastedwithherbsandspicesand eatenasis,churnedintootherdishessuch asasquashseedgranolaorblendedand strainedintoahomemadebrothtoadd sometexture,fatandflavor.Afterroasting carrotswithMoroccanspices,Satterfield suggeststakingtheleafycarrottopsand choppingthemwithcilantroandgarlicto makeagreensaucetocrownthecarrots. Swisschardstemscanalsobechoppedand cookedintoPortuguesebreadsoup,with leftoverstalebreadmadeintooliveoilcroutonsandeggwhitesstirredinattheend.

Winter Health Boosters

Beyondselectingseasonalproduce,chefs recommendafewkeydietarytweaksin winter,suchassteppingupvitaminD consumption.“Sinceyou’renotseeing alotofsunthistimeofyear,it’smore importanttogetitthroughcolorfulvegetableslikecarrots,cabbageorradicchio. Watermelonradishesareanotherwinter vegetablefullofvitamins,”saysBinns. “Youcangrowyourownsprouts throughoutthewinterasagreatmicrogreenoption.Sproutsareincrediblyhighin enzymes,somethingoftenlackinginother winterdishes,”suggestsStonger.“Fermentedvegetablesandotherfermentedfoodscan makeupthedifferenceinwinter.”

April Thompson is a freelance writer in Washington, D.C. Connect at AprilWrites.com.

Winter Salad Wonders For the vinaigrette: Fresh orange juice or as needed 1 Tbsp champagne vinegar ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil Sea salt and freshly ground pepper

Mixed Citrus Salad With Mâche, Fennel and Celery

Winteristheheightofcitrusseason,with anappealingdisplayoforanges,mandarins,tangerines,tangelos,pomelosand moreinthebest-stockedmarkets.Usea variedmixtureofsweet-tarttypesforthe prettiest,tastiestsalad.

Yields:4servings

2 ribs celery 2 bunches mâche 2 lb mixed citrus fruits, such as navel oranges, blood oranges, tangerines, mandarins and pomelos ½ fennel bulb, trimmed 8 kumquats ¼ cup sliced almonds, toasted

Cuttheceleryinhalflengthwise.Usinga serratedvegetablepeeleroramandoline, shavetheceleryintothinstripslengthwise downtheribs.Cutthestripsinhalfcrosswiseandplaceinabowlofwater.Setaside.

Separatethemâcheleavesandtransfertoa shallowservingbowl.Workingonaplate tocaptureallthejuices,useaserratedknife tocutathicksliceoffthetopandbottom ofeachcitrusfruit.Workingwithonefruit atatime,standituprightand,following thecontourofthefruit,carefullyslice downwardtoremovethepeel,pithand membrane.Setthefruitonitssideandcut crosswiseintoslicesabout⅜-inchthick, discardinganyseeds.Transfertheslices tothebowlwiththemâche,reservingthe juicesforthevinaigrette.

Cutthefennellengthwiseinhalf.Usinga mandolineorasharpknife,cutthefennel crosswiseintoverythinslicesandtuck amongthecitrusslices.Drainthecelery anddistributeevenlyoverthesalad.Using theserratedknife,cuteachkumquatcrosswiseintoverythinslices,discardingany seeds.Scatterthekumquatslicesevenly overthesalad,thensprinklethealmonds overthetop.

Tomakethevinaigrette,pourthereserved citrusjuicesintoameasuringcup.Add enoughadditionalorangejuicetomeasure ½cupthenaddthevinegar.Whiskingconstantly,slowlyaddtheoliveoilandwhisk untilwellcombined.Seasontotastewith saltandpepper.Drizzlethevinaigretteover thesalad,tossgentlytocoat,andserve.

From CookinginSeason:100Recipesfor EatingFresh, by Brigit Binns

You can grow your own sprouts throughout the winter as a great microgreen option. ~Shannon Stonger

Chard and Squash Salad

1 small winter squash, such as sweet dumpling, acorn or golden 2 small beets, trimmed 1 Tbsp olive oil 1 bunch Swiss chard, tough ribs removed and leaves torn Red wine vinaigrette or vinaigrette of choice Sea salt and freshly ground pepper

Cutthewintersquashintowedgesand removetheseeds,ifdesired. Transferthe wedgestoabakingdish. Halvethebeets andaddtothedish. Drizzlewiththeoil andtosstocoat. Bakeinapreheated450° Foven,stirringonce,untiltenderand lightlybrowned,20to40minutes. Let cool. Peelandslicethebeets. Placethe chardinabowl,drizzlewithsomeofthe vinaigrette. Tosstocoat. Addthesquash andbeets,drizzlewiththeremaining vinaigrette,andseasontotastewithsalt andpepper.

From CookinginSeason:100Recipesfor EatingFresh, by Brigit Binns