t:RACE
Trend Forecasting Booklet A/W 2017
Nadia Macharia FASH20032 N0658128
m:ENSWEAR 3 Totally Buggin’ 9 Ingredient Dilation
15 Second Wave Seventies
v:ISUAL MERCHANDISING 21 Mannequin Challenge 27 Dichotomy 33 Ethereal Earth
c:ONTENTS
p:RINT AND GRAPHIC 39 Woven Gardenia 45 Military Grade 51 Rallying Cry
r:EFERENCES 59 Bibliography 60 List of Illustrations
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t:OTALLY BUGGIN’ Fashion loves to regularly revisit the minimalist 90s, and with millenials creeping further and further in to adulthood, this trend counldn’t have come at a better time. Characterized by big bold logos, a boxy antifit look, as well as a bright saturated colour palette, new school has officially gone old school.
f:RESH PRINCE
t:AMAGOTCHI
m:ADIBA
c:LUELESS
Fig. 1 Sam Balaban, 2017
Fig. 2 Rickey Thompson, 2016
“Nostalgia became a cultural phenomenon” 6
-WGSN
As nostalgia became a cultural phenomenon, we saw the return of the tattoo choker and the croptop in womneswear, whilst in menswear, we saw the revival of brands that were popular in th 90s, such as Champion, Ellesse and Tommy Hilfinger. The style also tells of a rebellious subversion, with its grungy, almost anti fashion feel. This could be something the youth are relating to as a lot of them are just now getting involved in the current heated political sphere. With the MTV generation now heading up many of the independent labels, the 90s have returned with a bang. Featuring the drop shoulder, boxy anti- fit, with a utilitarian function silhouette, the inner city outerwear shows spirit of a seemingly simpler time. 7
Fig. 4 Rafael Moreira, 2016
“The inner city outerwear shows spirit of a seemingly simpler time.”
i:NGREDIENT DILATION Menswear has tradiotionally mined the archives of military uniforms and sportswear staples as inspiration, and this trend is no different. Charactersized by a puffing of the silhouette, as well as a heavily layered look, the oversized look moves easily from the runway to the street.
b:ILLOW
b:RASS
c:ERISE
t:RENCH
Fig. 5 ‘Street Style’ A/W Fashion week Mens, Dan Roberts, 2017
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Fig. 6 Kenzo, A/W 2017
“In this age of ubiquitous surveillance, the fear of infamy can lead one to cover up, well everything 12
-Adam Wray
Fig. 7 J.W Anderson,A/W 2017
It seems as time passes, there is a dilation and contriction of menswear; dilation in the 90s and early 2000s, with baggy jeans and oversized Tees, and then a constriction towards the end of the 2000s and in to the 2010s with skinny jeans and fitted wife beaters and polos. As we now come full circle, we see a new emphasis on larger proportions, that “conveys a galvanising attitude that reinforces masculinity.” However, the transition in to a grandoise silhouette could, arguably be seen in some ways a s a form of protection; ‘For some, concealment could be a form of self defense, especially in this age of ubiquitous surveilance’, the fear of infamy can lead one to cover up, well everything. 13
Fig. 8 Dreis Van Noten, A/W 2017
s:ECOND WAVE SEVENTIES This season, designers have managed to slip back in time yet again and take us on a psychadelic trip through 70s colour, cut and pattern, creating stunning collections for any man not afraid to rock the bright colours and loud patterns.
l:SD
c:ALIFORNIA DREAMING
r:UMORS
m:AYSLES
Fig. 9 Katie Eary, A/W 2017
Another dose of nostalgia, with a sprinkling of jewel tones infuse a vintage 70s attitude in to a collection of menswear staples. The fabrics feature in classic tan shades, but stand out when in an autumn burnt orange or deep burgundy appears, while the loud prints and paisleys give that classic psychadelic feel. Corduroy, as well as leather feature prominently especially on the voluminous trousers and jacket sleeves. 17
Fig. 10 Rich Mnisi, S/S 2017
“A sprinkling of jewel tones infuse a
nostalgic 70s attitude to a collection of menswear staples�
Fig. 11 Prada, A/W 2017
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m:ANNEQUIN CHALLENGE In recent years, vendors have been experimenting with mannequins and the results are quite compelling. Breathing life in to the inanimate to make the mannequin more than a glorified coat rack, and in to part and parcel of the branding and tone of voice the brand strives for.
v:ERDUOUS
d:HALIA
b:RUNET
i:VORY
Fig. 12 Gucci, Dover Street Market , London 2017
Fig. 13 Lavin, 2015
“The next generation want to see a story, and the mannequin becomes part of that sell� 24
-Faith Bartrug, Retail Designer
Fig. 14 Hans Boodt Mannequins, 2016
With the rise of e-commerce and online shopping, traditional brick and mortar stores have been forced to think outside the box when it come to getting consumers inside their stores. Everything about the store, including the mannequin, has to be ‘instagramable’. Mannequins offer a 3D perspective on clothing and accessories, different from the 2D images seen online. Incooporating different materials like metals, woods and fabric has become popular as well. Brands are realising that mannequines offer more than just a practical purpose, and are a great vehicle for branding and engaging on a deeper level with consumers. 25
Fig. 15 Mannequins Milano Unica, A/W 2017-18
d:ICHOTOMY This retail trend is charactrized by the rise of stores that increase dwell time, so that the consumer has more to look at and shop. This includes fashion brands collaborationg with other industries to capitalise on the shared space, and create a multisensory shopping experience for the consumer.
s:PLINTER
s:ABER
s:PLIT
c:HASM
Fig. 16 Workbar, 2016
One of the biggest trends of 2016 was a move towards retail spaces becoming more public. Brands can open up their retail spcae to other industries and and create a new space that combines two or more different experiences in to one. Work spaces and food halls have been the first to appear, however, the flexibility to choose which industry to collaborate with means the future is bright, as brands look for new ways to engage with thier consumer. This trend envokes a collaborative effort that creates differentiation and provides an innovative experience for both customer bases. the rise of stores that increase dwell time, so that the consumer has more to look at and shop. 29
Fig. 17 Saks Fifth Avenue, Toronto, 2016
Fig. 18 The Pennsy, New York 2016
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e:THEREAL EARTH
Embodying the powers of nature, space, volume and light are used to create an epic, yet intimate, immersive experience of the ethereal world. The most alturistic of the trends, Ethereal Earth is solely based on enhancing the shopping experience, and giving the consumer a visually and emotionally stimulating experience.
o:CEAN REFLECTION
s:HADED
u:NCOVERED
o:PEN SPACE
Fig. 19 Snarkitechture, 2016
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Fig. 20 Doug Wheeler, 2016
“Light airiness and tempestuous energy allow for pure contemplation and clearing of the mind�
Fig. 21 COS, 2015
The use of soft light and white open spaces create a peacful and quiet shopping environment that allows you to step off a busy street in to a spa like serenity. Light airiness and tempestuous energy allow for pure contemplation and clearing of the mind, whilst undergoing some retail therapy. The trend uses natural elements and white open space to create calming, yet engaging shopping experience. It also incoporates snakitechture which is a collaborative practice established to investigate the boundaries between art and architecture. With a more conceptual approach on the importance of experience, they create unexpected, memorable moments that invite people to explore and engage with their surroundings. 37
Fig. 22 Museum of Contemporary Art, 2017
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w:OVEN GARDENIA The painterly, expressive prints that were previously only seen in Parisian haute couture, have now exploded in to a maximalist revolution, dragging in its wake even the most minimal brands. Filled with an abundunce of floral motifs, this trend is a huge shift from the dominance of linear style.
t:ULIP
p:OISON ROSE
f:OREST FLOOR
b:OUGAINVILLEA
Fig. 23 Diane Von Furstenburg, RTW 2017
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Fig. 24 Sydne Summer, 2017
“It is flooded with expressive styles, such as artisinal rug patterns and paisleys” -WGSN
Fig. 25 NYFW, 2017
Floral embroidery, inspired by a fusion of cultures, celebrates the beauty of artisan techniques, and traditional authentic patterns. The current variation of the print trend finds its roots in eastern European cultures, and was used to show social status and distinguish between tribes. It is flooded with expressive styles, such as artisanal rug patters and paisleys. Dark grounded florals emerge as a romantic yet modern statement. Blooms appear in varying sizes on feminine silhouettes, and the illusion of thick brush stokes give a messy, hand crafted look. 43
Fig. 26 Eva Chen, NYFW 2017
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m:ILITARY GRADE Camo has come a long way since your boyfriend’s shorts in 2005. The utilitarian print has been morphed every which way, but has still stood its ground as a fashion staple all these years, and we are yet to see a forecast without it.
c:OAL MINE
m:ORSE CODE
a:RMADA
s:MOKE SCREEN
Fig. 28 Liam Hodges, A/W 2017
“Its less of a trend and more of a seasonally updated staple� 48
Fig 29, Nili Lotan, Pre-Fall 2017
Camo is one of those trends that never goes away; its less of a trend and more of a seasonally updated staple. While previous seasons have been concentrated on the ‘prepification’ of the print, A/W 2017 has it headed in a more casual, street oriented direction. Gracing both mens and womenswear runways, the versetile print has made its mark and it set to reach it peak within the next few months.
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Fig 30 Valentino, Resort 2017
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r:ALLYING CRY
It is true fashion is influenced by all sorts, however who would have thought that one day the NYFW runway would be rife with political statements? Then again who would have thought that in 2017 we would still be fighting the same battles. Much like the activist messaging of Katherine Hamnett and Vivienne Westwood in the 80s, this resurgence reflects a symptom of frustration.
b:LACK LIVES MATTER
o:CCUPY
n:O DAPL
n:ASTY WOMAN
Fig. 31 Prabal Gurung, A/W 2017
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Fig. 32 ‘Street Style’, NYFW, Diego Anciano, 2017
“You can literally wear your heart on your sleeve” 54
Fig. 33 NYFW 2017
Fashion has always served as a form of self-expression, and so naturally, in this political climate and era of social unrest, the slogan tee has become a high street fashion staple. First seen with the rise of the ‘Black Lives Matter’ movement in 2013, the trend has since gone mainstream; NYFW saw a number of designers use the catwalk to demonstrate their dissent with the Trump administration. A far cry from the pre-teen ‘FCUK’ branding of the 90s, this round of slogan tees stand as a visual marker for what you believe in; you can literally wear your heart on your sleeve. From its humble counter-culture origins, to its current status as a high street fashion staple, the slogan tee has a noble history. 55
Fig. 34 “Don’t Shoot”, 2017
r:EFERENCES
b:IBLIOGRAPHY DeLeon, J. (2017). In the New World Order, Oversized Garments Provide Wearable Solace. [online] WGSN Insider. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/oversized-clothes-provide-wearable-solace/ [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Dennis, L. (2017). Trends: Retail 2017 – what’s in store?. [online] Retail Focus - Retail Blog For Interior Design and Visual Merchandising. Available at: http://www.retail-focus.co.uk/features/2479-trendsretail-2017-what-s-in-store [Accessed 10 May 2017]. Feigenbaum, E. (2016). Trend Watch. [online] Visual Merchandising and Store Design. Available at: http://www.vmsd.com/hot-topics/trend-watch [Accessed 15 Apr. 2017]. LS:N Global. (2017). LSN : Micro Trends. [online] Available at: https://www.lsnglobal.com/microtrends [Accessed 2 May 2017]. Rebholz, J. (2016). Retail Trend: Cowork Meets “Coretail” | design:retail. [online] design:retail. Available at: http://www.designretailonline.com/projects/trends/retail-trendcowork-meets-coretail/ [Accessed 6 May 2017]. English, V. (2017). 20 Menswear Trends for Spring/Summer 2017. [online] Vogue English. Available at: http://en.vogue.fr/vogue-hommes/fashion/diaporama/20-menswear-trends-for-spring-summer2017/35352#tendances-homme-mode-printemps-ete-2017-streetwear-nineties [Accessed 13 Apr. 2017]. Wray, A. (2017). Your One-Size-Fits-All Future. [online] Ssense.com. Available at: https://www.ssense. com/en-us/feature/your-one-size-fits-all-future?utm_source=2178999&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_ campaign=ShopStyle+Inc.-&utm_term=10782042&utm_content=ssense.com [Accessed 5 May 2017].
l:IST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Balmford, G. (2017). Fenwick - April Showers. [online] Retail Focus - Retail Blog For Interior Design and Visual Merchandising. Available at: http://www.retail-focus.co.uk/vm/1942-fenwick-aprilshowers [Accessed 8 May 2017]. Brandini, B. (2017). Trends Milano Unica: Autumn-Winter 2017/18 | Beatrice Brandini Blog. [online] Beatricebrandini.it. Available at: http://www.beatricebrandini.it/trends-milano-unica-autumn-winter201718/?lang=en [Accessed 8 May 2017]. Coffin on Cake. (2017). [online] Available at: http://coffinoncake.tumblr.com/post/41705019776/ drapers-featuring-denim-demon [Accessed 7 May 2017]. Delcourt, K. (2017). SPOTTED | 12 models that were spotted at men’s A/W Fashion Week 2017/18. [online] Trace EN. Available at: http://trace.tv/lifestyle/spotted-12-male-models-spotted-mens-awfashion-week/ [Accessed 21 Apr. 2017]. Delcourt, K. (2017). 10 hit trends from Men’s A/W 2017 Fashion Week. [online] Trace EN. Available at: http://trace.tv/lifestyle/10-hit-trends-mens-aw-2017-fashion-week/ [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Dennis, L. (2017). Kate Spade - Hey Babe. [online] Retail Focus - Retail Blog For Interior Design and Visual Merchandising. Available at: http://www.retail-focus.co.uk/vm/2554-kate-spade-hey-babe [Accessed 8 May 2017]. English, V. (2017). 20 menswear trends for Spring/Summer 2017. [online] Vogue English. Available at: http://en.vogue.fr/vogue-hommes/fashion/diaporama/20-menswear-trends-for-spring-summer2017/35352#tendances-homme-mode-printemps-ete-2017-streetwear-nineties [Accessed 13 Apr. 2017]. Hansboodtmannequins.com. (2017). Mannequins female & male abstract collection Fabric - Hans Boodt Mannequins. [online] Available at: https://www.hansboodtmannequins.com/mannequins/ abstract/fabric [Accessed 8 May 2017]. Hansboodtmannequins.com. (2017). Ka Space - Explore - Hans Boodt Mannequins. [online] Available at: https://www.hansboodtmannequins.com/explore/entry/ka-space [Accessed 8 May 2017]. LAWSON, K. (2017). Kate. Lawson. [online] Kate-lawson.com. Available at: http://www.kate-lawson. com/2011_05_01_archive.html [Accessed 8 May 2017]. 60
LOVE. (2017). Furry futures and slogan tees at PRABAL GURUNG AW17 | LOVE. [online] Available at: http://www.thelovemagazine.co.uk/posts/7568/furry-futures-and-slogan-tees-at-prabal-gurungaw17 [Accessed 7 May 2017]. Mower, S. (2017). J.W.Anderson Fall 2017 Menswear Fashion Show. [online] Vogue. Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/j-w-anderson/slideshow/collection#18 [Accessed 7 May 2017]. Naidoo, K. (2017). UPDATE: Dates & Designers For SA Menswear Week A/W 17 Shows - Elle South Africa. [online] Elle South Africa. Available at: http://www.elle.co.za/the-dates-and-the-designers-forsa-menswear-week-autumnwinter-17-shows/ [Accessed 5 May 2017]. Onobello.com. (2017). Men’s Fashion: EmmyKasbit A/W ‘17 Collection ‘Expedition’ - OnoBello.com. [online] Available at: http://onobello.com/mens-fashion-emmykasbit-aw-17-collection-expedition/ [Accessed 6 May 2017]. Phelps, N. (2017). Diane von Furstenberg Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show. [online] Vogue. Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/diane-von-furstenberg [Accessed 7 May 2017]. Phelps, N. (2017). Valentino Resort 2017 Fashion Show. [online] Vogue. Available at: http://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2017/valentino [Accessed 8 May 2017]. Yotka, S. (2016). [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.com/article/slogan-tees-trend-paris-fashionweek-spring-2017 [Accessed 8 May 2017]. Rebholz, J. (2016). Retail Trend: Cowork Meets “Coretail” | design:retail. [online] design:retail. Available at: http://www.designretailonline.com/projects/trends/retail-trendcowork-meets-coretail/ [Accessed 6 May 2017 The FADER. (2017). How To Wear ’90s Vintage Streetwear This Fall. [online] Available at: http:// www.thefader.com/2016/10/17/how-to-wear-90s-streetwear [Accessed 27 Mar. 2017]. Vogue. (2017). Nili Lotan Pre-Fall 2017 Fashion Show. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.com/ fashion-shows/pre-fall-2017/nili-lotan/slideshow/collection#1 [Accessed 7 May 2017]. Vogue. (2017). Street Style #NYFW / Día 3. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.es/moda/ streetstyle/galerias/street-style-new-york-fashion-week-febrero-2017-dia-3/13393 [Accessed 7 May 2017]. 61
t:RACE
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