Photographing Northumberland

THE MOST BEAUTIFUL PLACES TO VISIT & PHOTOGRAPH

P H O TO G R A P H I N G

NORTHUMBERLAND B E A C H E S & S E A S C A P E S • FA R N E I S L A N D S • T H E N AT I O N A L PA R K H A D R I A N ’ S WA L L • C A S T L E S • M O U N TA I N S , M O O R S & VA L L E Y S L I N D I S FA R N E • R I V E R S & WAT E R FA L L S • TO W N S & V I L L A G E S

ANITA NICHOLSON

PHOTOGRAPHING NORTHUMBERLAND

BY ANITA NICHOLSON

First published in the United Kingdom in 2020 by fotoVUE. www.fotovue.com

Copyright © fotoVUE Limited 2020.

Text and Photography: Copyright © Anita Nicholson 2020.

Additional text and research © Mick Ryan – fotoVUE.com Foreword Copyright © Tony Gates, Chief Executive Northumberland National Park 2020.

Anita Nicholson has asserted her right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 to be identified as the author of this work.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system without the written permission of the publisher, except for the use of brief quotations in a book review.

TRADEMARKS: fotoVUE and the fotoVUE wordmark are the registered trademarks of fotoVUE Ltd. Edited by Susie Ryder.

Photo editing by Mick Ryan.

Additional editing by Mick Ryan and Roy Hodson.

Additional images: © Adam Burton – adamburtonphotography.com © Robert Harvey – naturalworldphotography.net © Mick Ryan – fotoVUE.com © Stuart Holmes – lakespanorama.co.uk Design and layout by Ryder Design – www.ryderdesign.studio All maps within this publication were produced by Don Williams of Bute Cartographics.

Map location overlay and graphics by Mick Ryan. Maps contain Ordnance Survey data© Crown copyright and database right 2020.

A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

ISBN 978-1-9160145-4-1 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 The author, publisher and others involved in the design and publication of this guide book accept no responsibility for any loss or damage users may suffer as a result of using this book. Users of this book are responsible for their own safety and use the information herein at their own risk.

Users should always be aware of weather forecasts, conditions, time of day and their own ability before venturing out.

Front cover: Sycamore Gap on Hadrian’s Wall (page 364). Canon 7D, 10–20mm at 10mm, ISO 100, 2s at f/11, Tripod, Jan. Rear cover left: Puffins on the Farne Islands (page 114). Canon 5D MkII, 100–400mm at 400mm, ISO 320, 1/6400s at f/5.6, Tripod, July.

Rear cover right: Bamburgh Castle from the north, blue hour after dark, outgoing tide (page 104).

Canon 7D, 10–20mm at 10mm, ISO 100, 200s at f/16, Tripod, Aug. Opposite: Heather and moorland grasses, Simonside Hills (page 308). Canon 5D Mark II, 100–400mm at 190mm, ISO 100, 1/125s at f/5.6, Aug. Printed and bound in Europe by Latitude Press Ltd.

Northumberland Heatherland and bentland, Black land and white, God bring me to Northumberland, The land of my delight.

Land of singing waters, And words from off the sea, God bring me to Northumberland, The land where I would be.

Heatherland and bentland, And valley rich with corn, God bring me to Northumberland, The land where I was born.

By Wilfrid Wilson Gibson (1878–1962)

CONTENTS

Locations and map overview ������������ 6 Acknowledgements ������������������������������� 8 Foreword by Tony Gates – Chief Executive Northumberland National Park ���������������������� 10 Introduction ��������������������������������������������� 12 Getting to and around Northumberland ����������������������������������� 16 Where to stay, eat and drink ��������� 18 Northumberland weather and seasonal highlights ����������������������������� 20 Northumberland climate ����������������� 26 About the Kingdom of Northumbria ������������������������������������������� 28 Using this guidebook to get the best images ������������������������������������ 32 Camera, lenses and captions ��������� 34 Classic Northumberland locations ��������������������������������������������������� 36 Access and behaviour ������������������������ 38

BERWICK-UPON-TWEED TO LINDISFARNE Introduction ����������������������������������������� Area Map ������������������������������������������������ 1 Berwick-upon-Tweed ����������������� 2 Spittal rocks and beach ����������� 3 Cocklawburn Beach ������������������� 4 Goswick Shipwreck ��������������������� 5 Holy Island Causeway ������������� 6 The Holy Island of Lindisfarne ������������������������������������� 7 Duddo Stone Circle ������������������� 8 Routin Lynn ����������������������������������� 9 Ross Sands ������������������������������������� 10 Guile Point �������������������������������������

42 44 48 54 58 62 64 66 76 80 84 88

BAMBURGH TO HOWICK Introduction & Area Map ������������ 94 Area Map ������������������������������������������������ 95 1 Budle Bay ��������������������������������������� 96 2 Stag Rock Lighthouse ������������ 100 3 Bamburgh Castle – from the north �������������������������� 104 4 Bamburgh Castle – from the south �������������������������� 110 5 The Farne islands ��������������������� 114

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CONTENTS

6 Beadnell ��������������������������������������� 122 7 Embleton Bay and Low Newton by the Sea ����������������� 126 8 Dunstanburgh Castle ������������� 130 9 Cullernose Point, Howick Scar and The Black Hole ����������������� 136 10 The Bathing House ����������������� 140

ALNWICK & COAST Introduction �������������������������������������� Area Map ��������������������������������������������� 1 Alnwick Castle ��������������������������� 2 Hulne Park ����������������������������������� 3 Alnwick Garden ������������������������ 4 Barter Books ������������������������������� 5 St Cuthbert’s Cross, Alnmouth ������������������������������������ 6 Warkworth ���������������������������������� 7 Amble ������������������������������������������� 8 Low Hauxley �������������������������������

146 149 150 156 160 166 170 176 180 186

DRURIDGE BAY TO COLLYWELL BAY Introduction �������������������������������������� 192 Area Map ��������������������������������������������� 193 1 Druridge Bay ����������������������������� 194

2 Cresswell Beach ������������������������ 3 Newbiggin-by-the-Sea ���������� 4 Bothal Woods ���������������������������� 5 The River Wansbeck ��������������� 6 Cambois ��������������������������������������� 7 Blyth ���������������������������������������������� 8 Cramlington Windmill ����������� 9 Seaton Delaval Hall ���������������� 10 Seaton Sluice ����������������������������� 11 Collywell Bay ������������������������������ 12 St Mary’s Lighthouse �������������

200 204 210 214 218 220 232 234 238 242 248

CHEVIOT: MOORS & VALLEYS Introduction �������������������������������������� Area Map ��������������������������������������������� 1 Windy Gyle ��������������������������������� 2 Hethpool ������������������������������������� 3 College Valley ���������������������������� 4 Cheviot ����������������������������������������� 5 Yeavering Bell ���������������������������� 6 Raven’s Crag and Bowden Doors above Belford �������������� 7 Hepburn Moor �������������������������� 8 Blawearie ������������������������������������ 9 Ingram and the Breamish Valley ������������������������

254 256 258 260 264 268 274

SIMONSIDE & ROTHBURY Introduction �������������������������������������� Area Map ��������������������������������������������� 1 Thrunton Wood ������������������������ 2 River Coquet, Rothbury ��������� 3 Simonside Hills and Lordenshaws ������������������������������

298 299 300 304 308

KIELDER & OTTERBURN Introduction �������������������������������������� Area Map ��������������������������������������������� 1 The Otterburn Ranges ����������� 2 Kielder Water and Forest Park ���������������������������������� 3 Padon Hill Monument and The Pennine Way �������������������� 4 Hareshaw Linn ��������������������������

314 316 318 324 332 338

HADRIAN’S WALL & THE WEST Introduction �������������������������������������� Area Map ��������������������������������������������� 1 Crammel Linn Waterfall �������� 2 Lambley Viaduct ����������������������

344 346 348 350

HADRIAN’S WALL Introduction �������������������������������������� Area Map ��������������������������������������������� 3 Caw Gap and Cawfields Quarry ��������������������� 4 Sycamore Gap �������������������������� 5 Housesteads ������������������������������

354 356 358 364 370

6 The Shire ������������������������������������� 374

FEATURE PAGES About the Author ������������������������������ 378 About fotoVUE ����������������������������������� 380

278 284 288 292

CONTENTS

5

FOREWORD Foreword by Tony Gates I feel incredibly lucky to call Northumberland home. It doesn’t matter in which corner of it you were born or if, like me, you fell for its charms later in life; Northumberland, with its rich landscape, heritage and culture, has a way of getting under your skin. Every inch of it leaves you inspired to explore and discover the unique qualities that make it so special.

It is a place of remote and rugged beauty; from its coastline, bombarded by invaders yet untamed by people, to its rolling hills and valleys, scarred from battle but alive with nature. The latter is something that stays with me – there’s nature in abundance as far as the eye can see and in the case of Northumberland National Park on a 400-square-mile scale.

I was once fortunate enough to visit the Rocky Mountains National Park, where I had the opportunity to walk as far as I could into the most remote part of the park to experience nature all alone. It was incredible and challenging to be immersed in such a vast landscape in that way.

I had a similar experience some years later when I stood on the observation ridge – part of the Otterburn Training Area – in Northumberland National Park. I had a 360-degree view around me and I couldn’t see a single man-made structure.

That’s what makes Northumberland National Park special to me and as such, it is a rare commodity and an exciting challenge for any photographer.

Photography is an art that records our own personal observations – a millisecond of time in a land of millennia. Every corner of Northumberland is different, unique and capable of fresh discovery.

This will therefore be true of every photograph; each image will be unique to the place and to the person who took it. Northumberland is a place where people and nature stand proud and, whether you capture it quickly on your phone

10

FOREWORD

or sit patiently for hours, you will be rewarded with photography that shares your Northumberland story, a story that will inspire others.

Northumberland has something for everyone, from far horizons to intricate detail. I hope you enjoy discovering it through this wonderful book and through the journeys and photography it will no doubt inspire. Landscape is, for me, as much about human perception as it is the physical nature of places. Photography helps us observe, explore and connect with landscape, creating a rewarding relationship that helps deepen our connection with the world around us.

So perhaps it’s time to discover or renew your connection with Northumberland. A warm Northumbrian welcome awaits you.

Tony Gates Chief Executive Northumberland National Park September 2020

The approach to Hedgehope Hill (714m, 2,342ft) from the Breamish Valley (page 192). Canon 5D Mark II, 24–70mm at 24mm, ISO 800, 1/400s at f/11, Dec.

INTRODUCTION

If you don’t live locally, getting to Northumberland could easily be a journey of several hours, but it’s worth it.

Once in the county – at any time of year – you are spoilt for choice; the combination of a beautiful coastline with its beaches and castles, mountains and moorlands, countryside and villages, big open skies and often-majestic light, is hard to beat.

It’s a place to escape to; Northumberland feels remote and solitude is easy to find. I’m sure you will enjoy exploring this beautiful corner of England as much as I have done.

Anita Nicholson September 2020

Opposite: Harkness rocks north of Bamburgh castle (page 104).

Blue hour. Canon 5D Mark II, 24–70mm at 24mm, ISO 50, 10s at f/11, Tripod, Dec. Next spread: A solitary bird and the Cheviots from Blawearie (page 288). Canon 5D Mark II, 100–400mm at 380mm, ISO 50, 1/1600s at f/5.6, Sept.

12

INTRODUCTION

NORTHUMBERLAND WEATHER AND SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

Berwick-upon-Tweed lighthouse and pier (page 48) at sunrise. Sony 7rii, Sony 24–105 at 24mm, ISO 100, 1/125s at f/9. Feb. © Mick Ryan

The Coast Sunrise and sunset Northumberland’s coast faces east, making it perfect for sunrise photography all year. The sun rises in the southeast in midwinter then swings up to the northeast for the long days of June and July. Use the sun compass on the front flap, and on the index map (page 8) to help plan sunrise shoots, especially if you want to align the rising sun with a subject. Sunset is not to be discounted for the coastal locations with the last rays of the day often creating a backdrop of colourful clouds in the east and beautifully illuminating the foreground. Because the sun sets in the southwest in winter, if you’re at a coastal location looking south at this time of year, the setting sun will, in some cases, be close to your coastal subject. The harbour at Beadnell (page 122) and the Holy Island of Lindisfarne (page 66) are two locations where you can take images of the setting sun over the sea because they include westerly aspects.

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NORTHUMBERLAND WEATHER AND SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

Tides Tide levels are a factor when visiting coastal locations, not least because they determine whether the road to Holy Island is open, but also for when rock platforms, boulders and sand will be exposed, or when the sea is receding from such features – often the best time for seascape photography.

In the UK there are two high tides and two low tides within any 24-hour period, with roughly 12 hours between high tides. Various websites show tide times and recommended is the Met Office website: metoffice.gov.uk

Dramatic weather Keep your eye on the forecast for bad weather; storms, rain and high seas make dramatic photography.

Sea Frets In the summer months coastal fog, known locally as sea frets (or haars), can blanket the coast with a damp, cold mist whilst inland are clear skies. Sea frets are caused by warm air passing over the cold water of the North Sea, which then condenses to form fog. Often the sun will burn the sea fret away, but if it’s thick and a wind from east continues to blow, it can stick around all day. (See Ross Sands, page 84 for examples of images taken in a sea fret).

Windy Gayle trig point (page 258). Canon 5D Mark II, 17–40mm at 32mm, ISO 125, 1/200s at f/11, Oct.

Trees and the Milky Way. Canon 5D Mark II, 50mm, ISO 1000, 20s at f/2.8, Nov.

The Mountains and Hills

Night Photography – Northumberland International Dark Sky Park

High-elevation locations in the Sandstone Hills, the Cheviots, along Hadrian’s Wall and many of the locations in the National Park are at their best from autumn through to the spring – from October through the winter months to May. Frost and snow can transform these areas from December to March. August is another special time when the heather (calluna vulgaris) flowers; make sure to visit Simonside Hills and Lordenshaws (page 308), Raven’s Crag and Bowden Doors (page 278) and Blawearie (page 288) at this time. Autumn sees the bracken turning golden brown on the slopes, along with a high probability of looking down on valley mist and fog. That’s not to discount summer in the hills, especially when there are blue skies and fluffy white clouds over an expansive vista, for example at Thrunton Wood (page 300) and Yeavering Bell (page 274).

Thanks to the absence of cities, combined with its remoteness and a sparse population, Northumberland has some of the darkest skies in Europe, and in 2013 the combined areas of Northumberland National Park and Kielder Water & Forest Park was designated Gold Tier Dark Sky Park status by the International Dark-Sky Association.

The region is home to the Kielder Observatory and the Battlesteads Dark Sky Observatory at Wark, both of which run astronomy events and are open to visits.

Find more information at kielderobservatory.org and battlesteads.com/observatory

NORTHUMBERLAND WEATHER AND SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

21

NORTHUMBERLAND WEATHER AND SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

SPRING – March, April, May

SUMMER – June, July, August

It can be a little drab at the beginning of spring but a visit to Warkworth Castle (page 176) will lift the spirits. A host of golden daffodils surrounds the fortification, which sits above the cobbled village of Warkworth and the River Coquet.

Similarly, a visit to Alnwick Garden (page 160) for ‘hanami’ – flower-viewing in Japanese – is highly recommended.

The Japanese Taihaku cherry blossoms in Alnwick Garden’s Cherry Orchard really shouldn’t be missed.

Most places on the coast and inland will be busy with people at this time of year, but if you head out early or late there will be few crowds in locations that require a bit of a walk. Coastal sunrises can be spectacular but you will have to get up very early – the same applies if you want untrodden sand. Summer foliage reaches a peak in late July and August and if you wander round most rural areas there will be plenty of hedgerows and verges awash with summer flowers to photograph. It’s rewarding in summer to get up high to the Cheviot (page 268), Simonside and Rothbury (page 298), and Kielder and Otterburn (page 314) locations, particularly in August when the purple flowering heather blooms. Waterfalls are another great option to explore, especially on overcast days. Try Routin Lynn waterfall (page 80) with its lush vegetation; it’s wonderful to visit after heavy rain.

Things start to warm up and foliage and flowers start to emerge in April. This is the best time to head to woodland areas, where there will be magnificent displays of lime-green leaves and woodland flowers. It’s worth visiting Bothal Woods (page 210), Embleton and Newton Links and Low Newton-by-the-Sea (page 126) for their bluebells in May. With warmer days but still cool nights, this is the time to head to higher ground to photograph low mist hanging over lush spring countryside and it’s a good time to photograph Alnwick Castle (page 150) by the River Aln. The coast will be quiet at this time of year, and April brings sunshine and showers, perfect for rainbows.

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NORTHUMBERLAND WEATHER AND SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

AUTUMN – September, October, November

WINTER – December, January, February

For many, autumn is one of the best seasons for landscape photography; sunrise and sunsets are now at a reasonable hour, the summer crowds have left the area, tree foliage is stunning, the quality of light makes a quantum leap from the haze of summer, there is often a sustained period of good weather, even the beer tastes better! For foliage head to Lambley Viaduct (page 350), Alnwick Castle and Gardens (page 150/160), Hulne Park (page 156), the river at Warkworth (page 176), Bothal Woods (page 210) and the River Wanseck (page 214), Hethpool (page 260) and Kielder Water and Forest Park (page 324). Don’t go too early to these places though; late October and November are the best times.

As the autumn colours fade in the woodlands, the hilly areas become more colourful as the bracken and moorland grasses turn varied hues of brown and red. Winter, along with autumn, is one of the best times for photography. The sun is now low throughout the day and, when it’s not raining, can cast a celestial glow on the land. Compared to places further south, Northumberland can experience significant snowfall and many frosty days, usually from November through to March. Be prepared and get out early to beat the crowds. On the coast however, you’ll more than likely have the place to yourself and although it is usually milder at this time of year, winter storms bring waves crashing against cliffs, harbours and lighthouses (see St Mary’s Lighthouse page 248). If you’re brave enough, the coastline is a must for dramatic seascapes.

February sees early signs of flowers with splendid drifts of snowdrops at many places: try Hethpool (page 260), Hareshaw Linn (page 338) and Hulne Park (page 156).

There is always a wonderful carpet of snowdrops at Chillingham Castle at its north entrance.

NORTHUMBERLAND WEATHER AND SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

25

ABOUT THE KINGDOM OF NORTHUMBRIA

St Oswald, crowned as a king. King Oswald of Northumbria, d. 642 source: New York Library.

Reconstructed Mesolithic round-house at Howick © Andrew Curtis.

Northumberland – all the peoples who lived north of the river Humber

Pectoral Cross of St Cuthbert.

Prehistory One of Britain’s oldest houses, built nearly 10,000 years ago, was discovered at Howick (page 140) and is thought to have been lived in by the Votadini, a Celtic people of the Iron Age. More visible evidence of Neolithic and Early Bronze Age people can be seen at Lordenshaws (page 308) where there are over one hundred examples of rock art; Yeavering Bell Hillfort (page 274) where Iron Age dwellers constructed 130 houses within the fort’s walls, and the stone circle of Duddo Five Stones (page 76).

was killed in battle, Edwin of Deira became king of Northumbria and the kingdom was expanded west as far as the Isle of Man and was, for a while, the chief power in Britain until it was split when Cadwallon ap Cadfan, the King of Gwynedd, defeated Edwin at Hatfield Chase in 633.

Honour was restored and the Kingdom of Northumbria re-established when Oswald, son of Æthelfrith, defeated the pagan king Cadwallon ap Cadfan at the Battle of Heavenfield in 634.

The Romans

Christianity, Vikings and Monasteries

The Romans invaded Britain in AD 43 under Emperor Claudius but it was many years until the Romans conquered the northern tribes. By AD 103 they had constructed Hadrian’s Wall (page 344), and later, the more northerly Antonine Wall to keep the warlike Picts at bay.

Oswald directed the expansion of the Kingdom of Northumbria into the Celtic kingdoms to the north and west, and firmly established Christianity in the region inviting the Irish monk, St. Aidan (b. 590, d. 651), the Apostle of Northumbria, to preach in the area. St. Aidan chose the island of Lindisfarne as the site of his church and monastery (page 66), and St. Cuthbert (b. 634, d. 687), generally acknowledged as the most important medieval saint of Northern England, became bishop. It was at Lindisfarne that a monk named Eadfrith created an illuminated manuscript gospel book, called the Lindisfarne Gospels (715–720). Another famous Northumbrian at this time was Saint Bede, the Benedictine monk and scholar, whose most famous work, Ecclesiastical History of the

The Kingdom of Northumbria The Romans retreated in the 5th century and there followed a period of chaos that is poorly documented. It was around this time that the Germanic Angles invaded and established the kingdoms of Deira and Bernicia, which were united under Æthelfrith at the end of the 6th century. The two realms together formed the Kingdom of Northumbria, which stretched from the Humber to the Forth. After Æthelfrith

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ABOUT THE KINGDOM OF NORTHUMBRIA

The title page of the Gospel of Matthew from the Lindisfarne Gospels. source: British Library.

Border reivers at Gilnockie Tower, from an original drawing

by G. Cattermole.

English People, gained him the title ‘The Father of English History’. He was author of over sixty books and studied the academic discipline of computus – the science of calculating calendar dates. Saint Bede died in 735.

Castles and Border Reivers

In 793 bloody Viking raids laid waste to the Lindisfarne monastery, killing many monks in the process. The Viking Age in Britain lasted up to 1066, when Harald Hardrada sailed up the River Humber; the English king, Harold Godwinson, marched north with his army and defeated Hardrada, before marching south to unsuccessfully see off another invader, William of Normandy.

In 927, the Kingdom of Northumberland was incorporated into England by Athelstan, the first king of a united England and Eadulf became the Earl of Northumbria.

Territory was lost when the Scottish king, Indulf, reclaimed territory north of the Tweed.

After the Norman conquest of 1066, William the Conqueror and the Normans rebuilt the Anglian monasteries and many of the castles in the region, including Bamburgh and Dunstanburgh. Northumberland has the most castles of any English county. For several hundred years there were perpetual inroads and devastations by the Scots and several major battles. Significantly, in 1314, the county was ravaged by Robert the Bruce, King of the Scots. These border regions were lawless and home to border reivers, who were both English and Scottish. The reivers plundered and robbed homesteads, and cattle rustling, feuding, murder, arson, blackmail and pillaging were all common occurrences. Such activities were generally accepted at the time as a way of earning a living. To protect themselves many built fortified tower houses, known as pele towers (page 284).

It wasn’t until the 17th century and the uniting of the Scottish and English thrones under James VI/I that there was relative peace in the area. With the exception of the Scottish Highlands, the Borders were the last part of Britain to be brought under the rule of law.

ABOUT THE KINGDOM OF NORTHUMBRIA

29

USING THIS GUIDEBOOK TO GET THE BEST IMAGES fotoVUE photo-location and visitor guidebooks give you the information and inspiration to get to beautiful locations in the best photographic conditions.

services use what3words so if you get into trouble whilst exploring in a remote location, use the app to help 999 know exactly where to find you.

In the right place

The relevant OS Explorer map (1:25 000) for each location is given at the beginning of each location section next to the introduction. There are several apps that allow you to download the relevant OS maps in return for a subscription.

However, it is not recommended to rely solely on a mobile phone or tablet for navigation as batteries can run out and wireless connections can be lost.

Each location chapter has a grey box titled ‘How to get here’ where there are written directions to the location along with four co-ordinates to the nearest car park or lay-by, including a scannable location QR-code. On the maps are location and sometimes viewpoint pins, and parking symbols.

Main car park

Lat/Long: 55.768160, -1.992723 what3words: ///bill.driven.areas Grid Ref: NU 005 527 Postcode: TD15 1JB

The QR-code Using your smart phone camera point the lens at the QR-code and your camera will scan the code that contains the parking location information as a lat-long co-ordinate.

On some older phone operating systems you may have to have a QR-code reader app. Once read, your browser will open in Google maps and you can get directions from where you are to the parking spot of your chosen location.

Ordnance Survey maps

Before you set off, study a map so that you know where you are going and give yourself plenty of time to get to your destination. Also, read the accessibility notes to check the distances and terrain to a location’s viewpoints.

The fotoVUE maps Our maps are created by the talented Don Williams of Bute Cartography, then an overlay is added with location and viewpoint pins along with some points of interest and services.

Our map symbols Our maps are detailed but with few symbols.

The symbols that are important are:

4

///What3Words

A location chapter

Download the free app at what3words.com Postcodes are great if you are going to a specific building but not ideal for getting to the middle-of-nowhere.

Latitude/longitude is precise but it is a hassle to type 16-digits into a navigation app or sat-nav. Better is what3words, which assigns each 3m square in the world a unique three-word address that will never change.

Download the free what3words app then either say, type or scan in the what3words of a location, click on navigate, open a map app and you will get directions to the location.

You can save locations on your phone, which is useful if you plan on visiting several locations in a day or are on a trip; you can save them all before you set off. The what3words app can also take photographs and stamp the what3words location on your image as a useful reference source for where your images were taken. In the UK most emergency

A location chapter is marked by a numbered circle or pin and its name.

32

USING THIS GUIDEBOOK TO GET THE BEST IMAGES

A location viewpoint A viewpoint is marked by a small circle sometimes with the name of the viewpoint by it.

Footpaths ---------------Not all footpaths are marked on our maps, only footpaths that are useful to get to a location and its viewpoints.

Walking man symbol Paths with a walking man represent longer walks of a few miles, often involving steep uphill walking. These may require navigation and use of map and compass.

Sometimes we use them to clarify a right of way.

A peacock butterfly on hedgerow blossoms – near Bothal. Canon 5D Mark II, 100–400mm at 220mm, ISO 1000, 1/250s at f/5.6, May.

Map Symbols 1 Location chapter pin Viewpoint pin Parking Fuel

Carvanning & camping site Carvanning site/#vanlife Campsite/Glamping World Heritage site/area

Stately Home/Country House Garden open to the public

Popular high viewpoint Windmill/Windpump Significant church

Nature Reserve

Weather

Ancient Site English Heritage Pub Cafe Restaurant Accommodation National Trust National Trails Castle Golf course Museum Country park Public toilets Visitor centre

Check the weather forecast a few days before and the day before a planned outing. Recommended apps are metoffice.gov.uk and yr.no

Sun Topography, sun position and weather determine how light falls on the land. Use the sun position compass on the front flap of this guidebook for sunrise and sunset times, to find out where the sun rises and sets on the compass (there is a big difference between summer and winter) and sun elevation (how high the sun rises in the sky).

Useful websites and apps include The Photographer’s Ephemeris (photoephemeris.com), photopills (photopills.com) and suncalc.org

At the right time

Exploration

Each location in this book is accompanied by detailed notes on the optimum time of year and day to visit a location to get the best photographic results. Good light can occur at any time, however. Often the best time to visit a location is when conditions are rapidly changing, such as after a storm.

This guidebook will help get you to some of the best photographic locations and viewpoints in Northumberland.

It is by no means exhaustive; use it as a springboard to discover your own viewpoints. Study a map to look for locations or just follow your instinct to discover your own.

USING THIS GUIDEBOOK TO GET THE BEST IMAGES

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BERWICK-UPONTWEED TO LINDISFARNE

6

THE HOLY ISLAND OF LINDISFARNE

With recorded history dating back to the 6th century, the Holy Island of Lindisfarne – often just called Lindisfarne – is popular with visitors.

Accessible via a long causeway from the mainland at low tide, it is home to Lindisfarne Castle and Priory, with a pretty village, a harbour filled with boats, and fabulous views across the North Sea. This is a classic location for landscape photography in Northumberland, especially for compositions of the National Trust managed Lindisfarne Castle taken from the harbour.

The island has a long religious history: St Cuthbert – the monk, hermit and bishop – lived on Lindisfarne, and it’s famous for the illuminated manuscript known as the Lindisfarne Gospels, which was created here in the 8th century by a combination of illuminators and calligraphers – monks who resided in Lindisfarne Priory. The island was also the site of an early Viking invasion in 793: “The church of St Cuthbert is spattered with the blood of the priests of God, stripped of all its furnishing, exposed to the plundering of pagans,” wrote Alcuin, a Northumbrian scholar. In the visitor centre, run by English Heritage, you can find out more about the island. There are also three pubs that serve food, cafes, craft shops and you can buy the famous Lindisfarne Mead on the island.

What to shoot and viewpoints From the pay and display car park, it’s a couple of hundred metres’ walk to the village. Then carry on towards the harbour and castle.

Viewpoint 1 – The Village It’s worth having a wander around the village if you like taking photographs of pretty cottages, particularly in the summer when the gardens are in bloom. You can also find good viewpoints of the castle in the village.

Opposite: Lindisfarne Priory and the Church of St Mary the Virgin (VP2). Sony 7Rii, Sony 24–105 at 24mm, ISO 100, 1/250s at f/8. Feb. © Mick Ryan

66

Viewpoint 2 – Lindisfarne Priory and St Mary the Virgin Church Both the ruins of the priory and the older Church of St Mary the Virgin (and graveyard) are worth exploring close up. Entry to St Mary’s is free and not to be missed if old churches interest you, or if you simply want to experience the stillness and tranquility of a sacred place. Stained glass windows, ancient pews, carvings and the statue of monks carrying St Cuthbert’s coffin all make wonderful photographic subjects.

On the approach to the castle. Canon 5D Mark II, 70–2000mm at 100mm, ISO 50, 1/2000s at f/2.8, Oct.

Viewpoint 3 – The Heugh The Heugh is an elevated ridge of whinstone rock that was important in the past for observation and defence. It can be reached by following the well-worn footpath that starts between two pubs, and the view back down the path is a worthy composition. Once through the last gate there are effective compositions back to the village and of the priory and church. This area is rich with flowers in the summer and features a lookout tower, a shipping beacon, the ruins of an Anglo-Saxon church, a war memorial and an 18th-century building known as the Lantern Chapel.

Walk down the Heugh toward the harbour and you’ll see the remains of Osbourne’s Fort, built in the 1670s to defend the island from raids by Dutch privateers. Here you’ll find fantastic views of Lindisfarne Castle and a variety of foreground subjects.

Turn left to the harbour. >>

BERWICK-UPON-TWEED TO LINDISFARNE – THE HOLY ISLAND OF LINDISFARNE

How to get here

Best time of year/day

To reach the island, leave the A1 at the Beal crossroads. Turn eastwards towards the coast, with the Lindisfarne Inn on your right as you turn off. The village of Lindisfarne is around five miles from the A1 and over the tidal causeway. There is a large pay and display car park on the left just before the village.

As this is an off-shore location, it can be a great place to photograph at any time of day or year. It’s popular, not just for sunrise and sunset, but also for astrophotography as there is relatively little light pollution and plenty of options for foreground interest beneath a starry sky. The most important thing to be aware of here is the tides – the causeway should only be crossed at published safe-crossing times. Due to the flat profile of the bay, the tide comes in incredibly quickly here and every year the coastguard is called out to rescue people who have taken a chance and attempted to drive across the causeway, only to get stranded and their vehicle wrecked. If you miss the safe-crossing time, stay on the island until the tide goes back out or even stay overnight – Holy Island feels really special when it’s cut off and the day trippers have all gone home.

Holy Island crossing times should be checked via Northumberland County Council’s website: visitnorthumberland.com

Lat/Long: 55.674838, -1.800921 what3words: ///somebody.tissue.wrong Grid Ref: NU 126 423 Postcode: TD15 2SE

Accessibility As one of Northumberland’s most popular visitor locations, Lindisfarne Castle and the harbour beside it are all easily accessible though sturdy footwear is recommended. If photographing the old posts on the edges of the harbour, wear wellies as the shore is very muddy.

Overleaf: An upturned herring boat (converted into a shed) at the the harbour (VP4). Canon 5D Mark II, 24–70mm at 45mm, ISO 100, 1/200s at f/3.2, Tripod, July.

BERWICK-UPON-TWEED TO LINDISFARNE – THE HOLY ISLAND OF LINDISFARNE

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THE HOLY ISLAND OF LINDISFARNE

6

THE NORTH SEA

NORTHUMBERLAND COAST AREA OF OUTSTANDING NATURAL BEAUTY Goswick Sands Snook Point

Castlehead Rocks St Cuthbert’s Way

VP8

Emmanuel Head

The Links

Beal Point Beal

Holy Island

The Barn at Beal

To A1 1 mile

5

Brides Hole

Lindisfarne

Refuge Hut

Holy Island Sands

Holy Island Causeway

Sheldrake Pool

B eal S ands

6

VP1

Lindisfarne National Nature Reserve

VP5

The Holy Island of Lindisfarne

VP7

Castle

VP2

VP6 Castle Point

VP4

VP3 The Harbour

Hole Mouth

Granary Point

Burrows Hole

Fenham

10 Guile Point Parton Stiel

The Hainings

Fenham Flats

Dunes

Lowmoor Point A1

Ross Point Ro ss

9

Ba

Dunes

ck

Fenwick

Ross Sands

Sa

N

nd

Piers Wood

s

A1 0

mile

1

Elwick

Ross

Horseshoe Wood

Ross Links

Geology and Natural History Notes Most of the island is flat, except for a towering outcrop of basalt, on which sits Lindisfarne Castle. The underlying geology of the island is carboniferous limestone and sandstone, with bands of coal and iron ore. Rock pools pepper the shoreline – expect to see crabs, sponges, anemones and starfish. Lindisfarne National Nature Reserve is composed of dunes, saltmarsh and mudflats with a rich assemblage of wildlife and plants, including

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a variety of orchids in summer; the Lindisfarne Helleborine is only found on the island. Well-known for its birdlife, Lindisfarne is home to six internationally important species of wildfowl, and wading birds winter here. For the pale-bellied brent geese from Svalbard in Norway, this is their only regular wintering place in the UK. Pinkfooted and greylag geese, wigeons, grey plovers and bar-tailed godwits are also visitors.

BERWICK-UPON-TWEED TO LINDISFARNE – THE HOLY ISLAND OF LINDISFARNE

Fishing boats at the harbour (VP4). Canon 5D Mark II, 17–40mm at 17mm, ISO 100, 1/125s at f/11, Aug.

BERWICK-UPON-TWEED TO LINDISFARNE – THE HOLY ISLAND OF LINDISFARNE

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8

ROUTIN LYNN

One of Northumberland’s hidden gems, Routin Lynn is a small, elegant waterfall in the far north of Northumberland. This is a great location, not just because of the waterfall but for the fact that the remains of an ancient fort and prehistoric rock carvings can also be found a short walk away.

What to shoot and viewpoints This secluded ravine is well worth a visit if you enjoy photographing waterfalls in lush, secluded woodland locations. You can hear the falls of Routin Lynn before you see them, as Broomridgedean Burn tumbles over a 50-foot sheer rock outcrop into a shallow pool below. The enclosed woodland setting creates a magical atmosphere as you approach the delicate falls of Routin Lynn.

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BERWICK-UPON-TWEED TO LINDISFARNE – ROUTIN LYNN

Viewpoint 1 – Routin Lynn waterfall, wider view The primary photographic attraction of this location is Routin Lynn waterfall. As falls go, it’s a graceful one with a long, mostly unobstructed drop to the pool below, which is almost covered by the tree canopy – patches of light fall through onto the water’s surface. The surrounding ravine and fallen rocks are covered in rich green moss and ferns and by taking an image from a little downstream, you’ll be able to photograph the whole scene, rather than just the waterfall in isolation.

A lush summer day at Routin Lynn. Canon 5D Mark II, 17–40mm at 24mm, ISO 100, 1/13s at f/11, Tripod, Aug.

How to get here

Accessibility

Routin Lynn is down a single-track country road off the B6525, approximately three-and-a-half miles southwest of Lowick. When you turn off the B6525 onto the unnamed road, drive for a couple of miles then, as you approach the coordinates for your parking location, you’ll see a crossroads. Turn left and you’ll see a wide verge on your left, which is big enough for three or four cars.

Routin Lynn is next to a verge where you can park your car. The path leading to the waterfall isn’t long but it’s steep in places and there are tree roots and rocks along the way, making this location a little tricky to reach. The path is often muddy, so sturdy walking boots or wellies are recommended.

To access the footpath to Routin Lynn, cross over the road and walk along a farm track into the woods. Shortly after entering the woods, a narrow footpath peels off to your left. This takes you down to Broomridgedean Burn. The footpath follows the burn a short way before arriving at the waterfall.

Lat/Long: 55.623176, -2.027629 what3words: ///paddocks.encoding.rally Grid Ref: NT 97794 36920 Postcode: TD15 2QF

Best time of year/day If you wish to photograph the waterfall in full flow with a deep pool beneath it, then this location is best in autumn or winter. While the waterfall is likely to be less dramatic during the summer months, the advantage of this time of year is that the little ravine is lush with bright green ferns and mosses. In order to avoid glare on the water, Routin Lynn is best photographed in overcast conditions.

The waterfall is well off the beaten track, so in all likelihood you will have the place all to yourself even in peak tourist season – bliss!

BERWICK-UPON-TWEED TO LINDISFARNE – ROUTIN LYNN

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BAMBURGH TO HOWICK

BAMBURGH TO HOWICK – INTRODUCTION Just south of Lindisfarne, this section of Northumberland’s beautiful coast begins with the broad golden, sandy beaches and vast dunes of Budle Bay, a relatively quiet area with a remote feel.

It gets busier just to the south at Bamburgh Castle but with a bit of luck, and outside school holidays, you’ll find Bamburgh Beach far from crowded. It’s unlikely you’ll be the only photographer here however and understandably so; the beautiful castle and beach are not just dramatic, but easy to reach.

Continue south past St Aidan’s Dunes and you arrive at Seahouses – an excellent place to stop for fish and chips, or to use as a base; there is plenty of accommodation and lots of places to eat. Seahouses is also where you can board one of the boats to visit the outstanding Farne Islands. A trip to see the islands, which are managed by the National Trust, is one of the very best things to do in Northumberland. Depending on what time of year you sail out, you might see seals, puffins, guillemots, razorbills, jellyfish, anemones and terns, and – if you’re lucky – dolphins.

Head south from Seahouses and you’ll reach Beadnell, another popular coastal holiday village. Beadnell Bay is broad, curving and relatively sheltered, ideal for people visiting with families, especially if you’re interested in watersports as well as photography. Beyond Beadnell Bay lies a relatively quiet stretch of coast including Football Hole beach and bay, after which you round another headland and arrive at the picturesque Low Newton-by-the-Sea with its square of small, white cottages, pub and sailboats. Beyond Low Newton stretches Embleton Bay, overlooked by beach houses dotted amongst dunes covered in Marram grass.

Ahead of you to the south loom the dramatic ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle. The famous landmark resembles something from a Monty Python film or a gothic horror story depending on your references. The ruins perch on top of a sheer cliff and the beach beneath is strewn with lethal, shiny, black boulders.

To the south of Dunstanburgh Castle is the fishing village of Craster, famed around the world for its kippers. It’s also home to some excellent pubs, cafes, galleries and gift shops as well as places to stay and plenty to photograph, including the fishing harbour and boats. The Northumberland Coastal Path takes you past the village and on to a rockier stretch of coast, passing the Black Hole, a popular spot for photography. This stretch of coast feels wilder: the rocks shelve steeply into the sea and the waves can be dramatic. Just beyond is the cliff of Cullernose Point where a spring or summer visit will reward you with the sight and sound of nesting kittiwakes. After Cullernose Point a shelf of rock named Howick Scar juts out. It’s a scramble to reach and a potentially treacherous sea-rock formation. The footpath then curves round, skirting verges rich with wildflowers and insects, to lead you to the unmistakable view of The Bathing House, a Grade II listed holiday home, built by the second Earl Grey.

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BAMBURGH TO HOWICK – INTRODUCTION

LOCATIONS 1 Budle Bay ����������������������������������� 96 2 Stag Rock Lighthouse �������� 100 3 Bamburgh Castle – from the north ���������������������� 104 4 Bamburgh Castle – from the south ���������������������� 110 5 The Farne islands ����������������� 114 6 Beadnell ����������������������������������� 122 7 Embleton Bay and Low Newton by the Sea ������������� 126 8 Dunstanburgh Castle ��������� 130 9 Cullernose Point, Howick Scar & The Black Hole ������� 136 10 The Bathing House ������������� 140

Maps • OS Explorer 340 (1:25000) Holy Island & Bamburgh • OS Explorer 332 (1:25000) Alnwick & Amble

Previous spread: A kittiwake off Cullernose Point. Canon 5D Mark III, 100–400mm at 400mm, ISO 800, 1/6400s at f/5.6, July.

Outer Farne

Budle Bay

Budle Point 1

2 134

B

Waren Camping & Caravan site

Waren Mill

N

Stag Rock Lighthouse

2

Blackrock Point Harkess Rocks Golf Club

Inner Farne 3

Bamburgh North

Farne Islands

5

0

Bamburgh Castle

Bamburgh

4

The Potted Lobster Mizen Head Seafood Restaurant Castle Inn

THE NORTH SEA

Bamburgh South B1

1

mile

34

0

St Aidan’s Dunes Bamburgh Touring Caravans

Seahouses Westfield Paddock

41

3 B1 Service Station

Snook or North Sunderland Point

NORTHUMBERLAND COAST AREA OF OUTSTANDING NATURAL BEAUTY

B1

Elford

340

Lucker

Beadnell Bay

6

Beadnell West Fleetham

Newham

Warenford

Beadnell Point Harbour (West Facing)

Swinhoe

Beadnell Bay

Chathill

Northumberland Coast Path B13

High Newton -by-the-Sea

Football Hole Newton Point

Joiners Arms

Brunton B13

40

Ship Inn Newton Pool NR

North Charlton

Charlton Hall

B63

47

Blossom Plantation Pods

Christon Bank

Embleton & Newton Links Service Station

Embleton

Low Newton-by-the-Sea 7 Embleton Bay & Beach Low Newton houses Embleton Bay Ch urn

Preston

Ru mb le

40

Ellingham

A1

Greys Inn

Dunstanburgh 8 Castle

Dunstan Steads

A1

Dunstan Hill Camping & Caravanning Club Site

Rock

Northumberland Coastal Path

Craster 34

B6

B1340

339 B1

7

South Charlton

Rennington A1

Littlehoughton

Craster Tower

Cullernose Point, Howick Scar 9 & The Black Hole Howick Hall Gardens & Arboretum

B6341

B6346

Dunstan

The Craster Fish Restaurant The Jolly Fisherman L. Robson & Sons - Craster Kippers

Black Hole Cullernose Point Howick Scar

The Bathing

Howick House 10 Rumbling Kern Howick Haven

3

BAMBURGH CASTLE – FROM THE NORTH

Home to the Kings of Northumbria and, more recently, to the Armstrong family, Bamburgh Castle is one of Northumberland’s best-known attractions. Situated on the coast beside the beautiful village of Bamburgh, the castle overlooks miles of golden sandy beaches. The castle’s distinctive profile – sitting upon a dolerite outcrop – makes it an enduringly appealing subject for photographers. The most popular viewpoint is from the beach or the rocks to the north, looking back down the coast to the castle.

The ledges of Harkess Rocks and Blackrocks Point are part of the Whin Sill, a tabular layer of the igneous rock dolerite, which threads its way through Northumberland.

A receding tide often creates the best conditions north of the castle.

Canon 450D Mark, 10–20mm at 10mm, ISO 100, 6s at f/10, Tripod, Sept.

What to shoot and viewpoints Favourite viewpoints are from the Marram grass-covered sand dunes, the beach and the rocks to the north, looking back down the coast to the castle.

The sand dunes lie adjacent to the parking bays and The Wynding (the access road), with several paths threading through them to the expansive beach.

Harkess Rocks and Blackrocks Point are at the west end of the beach and can be reached by walking across the beach. Alternatively, walk up The Wynding, then cross dunes and sand straight onto the rocks, which stretch out into the sea. When wet from a receding tide, these igneous rocks are rich and dark (and very slippery!), providing great foreground interest – as do the broad sands along which the sea rushes in, creating fantastic opportunities for photographing reflections on wet sands or backwash trails from the surf.

Opposite: Evening sunlight illuminates Bamburgh castle from marram grass-covered sand dunes, quite close to the road. Nikon D800, 24–70mm at 35mm, ISO 50, 2.5s at f/14, Tripod, Apr. © Adam Burton

How to get here Bamburgh Castle is located right on the coast next to the small village of Bamburgh, which is 5 miles from the A1 – take the Purdy Lodge turn-off onto the B1341. As you drive through the village of Bamburgh, take the side road, The Wynding, which is opposite the village green. Follow this narrow road to a number of car parking areas next to the beach. For the best place to park for Harkess Rocks, drive past the first two parking areas and on towards a row of spaces overlooking the rocks.

Lat/Long: 55.612405, -1.720317 what3words: ////hairstyle.firms.teachers Grid Ref: NU 177 354 Postcode: NE69 7DD

Accessibility It’s just a short walk from the car parking areas to the rocks and beach. Whether photographing from the rocks or from the shoreline, Wellies are advisable here as the sea can surge in very quickly.

Best time of year/day

Next spread: A winter sunset and a receding tide from the beach.

Canon 5D Mark II, 17–40mm at 17mm, ISO 50, 2.5s at f/11, Tripod, Nov.

104

BAMBURGH TO HOWICK

Bamburgh Castle and Beach are excellent at any time of year, and at either sunset or sunrise. While the east coast usually favours sunrise, if the sunset is a good one it can fill the sky here and reflect off the sands to dramatic effect. High tide or shortly after offers the best chance to catch waves washing over the rocks and pouring off ledges. For safety, it’s wise to follow the tide out rather than risk getting stuck on the rocks with an incoming tide. Be aware this is a popular location.

BAMBURGH TO HOWICK – BAMBURGH CASTLE – FROM THE NORTH

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5

THE FARNE ISLANDS

Top: Puffin with a lunch of sand eels. Canon 5D Mark II, 100–400mm at 400mm, ISO 250, 1/1600s at f/5.6, June.

Above: Kittiwakes and guillemots, taken from the boat. Canon 5D Mark II, 100–400mm at 400mm, ISO 320, 1/640s at f/5.6, Apr.

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BAMBURGH TO HOWICK – THE FARNE ISLANDS

Above: Guillemot chick and adults. Canon 5D Mark II, 100–400mm at 400mm, ISO 320, 1/3200s at f/5.6, June.

Top: Grey seal. Make sure you bring a telephoto lens. Canon 5D Mark II, 100–400mm at 400mm, ISO 250, 1/320s at f/5.6, July.

Above: Guillemot chick and mother. Canon 5D Mark II, 100–400mm at 400mm, ISO 1000, 1/500s at f/5.6, July.

Above: Arctic tern, Farne Islands. Canon 5D Mark II, 100–400mm at 1800mm, ISO 1000, 1/8000s at f/5.6, July.

Above right: Look out for jellyfish and sea anemones in quiet rock pools. Canon 5D Mark II, 100–400mm at 180mm, ISO 5000, 1/400s at f/5.6, July.

BAMBURGH TO HOWICK – THE FARNE ISLANDS

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10

THE BATHING HOUSE

Located to the south of Craster, the Bathing House is a romantic cottage perched on the edge of cliffs along a particularly beautiful stretch of the Northumberland Coast. The house was built in the early 19th century by the second Earl Grey, who had the famous tea blended in his name.

Earl Grey had a large family, and they used the house as a retreat and as a base from which to go bathing in Howick Haven, a secluded cove overlooked by the house. Nowadays, the Bathing House is available as a holiday let.

What to shoot and viewpoints The Bathing House sits in a romantic, remote, and picturesque setting. From the car park, walk down the track to the coast to the Bathing House.

Viewpoint 1 – Howick Haven The sandy and rocky cove of Howick Haven is down a path to the right. Take care here if the seas are rough and make sure you go down when the tide is receding.

Viewpoint 2 – from the Northumberland Coastal Path The Bathing House is located right next to the designated Northumberland Coastal Path, which forms part of the North Sea Trail. The path provides a useful leading line and is abundant with wildflowers in the spring and summer months with drifts of montbretia (crocosmia) providing a last blast of beautiful late-summer colour in July.

The top of the private drive to the house also provides a good leading line towards the house with its distinctive chimney stacks.

Viewpoint 3 – from the North The most popular viewpoint is one looking towards the house from the rocks to the north that shelve steeply into the North Sea. The surf here is often wild, making for dramatic photographic opportunities as the waves crash onto the rocks. The coastal path continues north by the house and here you can access the rocky platforms at sea level. The surf here rushes wildly in and the rocks are treacherous, making conditions risky but exhilarating.

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BAMBURGH TO HOWICK – THE BATHING HOUSE

At Night The Bathing House is a popular location for astrophotography due to the cottage’s distinctive silhouette when beneath relatively clear skies. Though with Craster to the north and Boulmer to the south, there is some light pollution here.

The Bathing House from the north looking south. Canon 5D Mark II, 17–40mm at 17mm, ISO 800, 30s at f/4, Tripod, Mar.

How to get here The Bathing House is located on the coast next to Howick, which is just over 2 miles south of Craster. If approaching from Craster, keep to the coast road (named West End) and ignore the turn-off on the right to Howick – keep driving straight on until you reach a sharp bend to the right. At the bend, turn left (off the coast road) onto a dirt road; this leads straight ahead to Seahouses Farm.

There is a wide, long lay-by here, where you can park in order to access the footpath to the Bathing House and the coastal path.

You can see the roof and chimneys of the cottage from the parking spot and it’s no more than 400 metres along the path to the house itself.

Sea Houses Parking

Lat/Long: 55.449599, -1.5922757 what3words: ///ogre.winners.duke Grid Ref: NU 258 173 Postcode: NE66 3LF

Accessibility The footpath from the parking to the house is level, clearly signposted and well maintained – it’s the access route for the house in fact. Although accessible for most visitors, there are gateways to pass through and the path is used as a bridleway and by cyclists, as well as those visiting on foot. The rocks below are treacherous, and sturdy boots should be worn if you intend to go down to them.

Best time of year/day This location is generally best at or near high tide, especially on a lively surf day when the bay beneath the house is full and the waves crashing up the rocks to the north of the house are at their wildest. Winter and autumn months are best for wilder conditions with spring and summer best for wildflowers. Coastal locations can be fantastic places to photograph at any time of day, particularly during stormy conditions, but winter sunrises are particularly rewarding here.

ALNWICK & COAST – INTRODUCTION Heading south from the Bathing House at Howick, there’s much for the photographer along the coast to discover, including the eerie gurgling sea or crashing waves as it surges through the rock channels and holes at Rumbling Kern, and Boulmer with its colourfully painted fishing boats and old tractors beside the beach. For this section, though, we take a detour inland to the beautiful market town of Alnwick, before heading back to the coast at Alnmouth.

Alnwick is a superb base for anyone visiting Northumberland, as there’s so much to see and do here, whether you’re interested in history, film and television, gardening, books or country walks. There’s also a theatre, good pubs, cafes, restaurants and independent shops.

Alnwick is famous for the beautiful Alnwick Castle – home to the Duke and Duchess of Northumberland – which sits above the banks of the gently meandering River Aln and overlooks broad sweeping parkland. You can explore inside the castle and grounds, which featured in the Harry Potter films. At nearby Alnwick Gardens, created by the Duchess of Northumberland, there’s plenty to see and photograph, from a cherry blossom orchard, to walled gardens, fountains and even a tree house, within which is an excellent restaurant and cafe.

On rainy days or if you love books, then a visit to nearby Barter Books is a must. The shop is housed within an old railway station and there are plenty of characterful features, including a model railway that runs above the bookshelves. The main attractions here, of course, are the books. Oh, and the coffee and cake! Barter Books is a treasure trove not to be missed.

If staying in Alnwick for a few days, then vast Hulne Park is well worth a visit. This is a working private estate, so it isn’t always accessible but there are monuments, ruins and miles of country walks through the estate. >>

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ALNWICK & COAST – INTRODUCTION

Previous spread: The Jolly Jasper sailboat on its way to Amsterdam from Amble, taken from Amble Pier. Canon 5D Mark III, 70–200mm at 100mm, ISO 400, 1/1400s at f/5.6, Aug.

Alnwick Castle in the morning mist. Canon 5D Mark III, 70–200mm at 120mm, ISO 400, 1/1250s at f/5.6, Aug.

ALNWICK & COAST – INTRODUCTION

147

The Grand Cascade, one of several water features at the Alnwick Garden.

Canon 5D Mark II, 17–40mm at 17mm, ISO 100, 1/125s at f/9, May.

5

ST CUTHBERT’S CROSS, ALNMOUTH

St Cuthbert’s Cross is positioned on Church Hill, overlooking the Aln Estuary and the picturesque village of Alnmouth. The cross is said to mark the place where in 684, when petitioned by King Ecgfrith, St Cuthbert agreed to become Bishop of Lindisfarne.

This is a classic Northumberland location popular for its panoramic views up the River Aln, across to Alnmouth and along the boat-filled estuary, past expansive golden sandy beaches and out to the North Sea. The Aln Estuary is a haven for wildlife, its saltmarshes and mud banks providing rich feeding grounds for seabirds such as oystercatchers and curlews.

What to shoot and viewpoints The viewpoints are described from the track south of the cross. From the parking spot follow the track and climb up Church Hill to the cross.

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ALNWICK & COAST – ST CUTHBERT’S CROSS, ALNMOUTH

Viewpoint 1 – St Cuthbert’s Cross The classic photograph from St Cuthbert’s Cross is a panorama taking in the whole view to the north – from the boats moored on the River Aln, past the cross, to the pretty line of houses fronting Alnmouth village, and then on to the mouth of the Aln Estuary that leads out into the North Sea. For chocolate-box prettiness, this view is one of Northumberland’s finest.

Viewpoint 2 – Ruin near St Cuthbert’s Cross and Aln Estuary At the bottom of Church Hill a derelict chapel overlooks the saltmarshes and estuary. The chapel remains include beautiful carvings in the brickwork and it’s worth taking some time to explore here. It also makes a handy hide from which to watch seabirds wading in the estuary.

How to get here

Accessibility

St Cuthbert’s Cross is located on Church Hill just to the south of Alnmouth, on the south side of the Aln Estuary. The cross can be reached via footpaths from Alnmouth, however, these are circuitous and you will need to go back along and over the river before following the path around the salt marshes.

Wellies are recommended for this location, particularly if you are visiting around high tide. The road and path to the cross are very uneven so this route is not wheelchair accessible. The hill is a small one and the paths are reasonably clear and flat for most of the way.

An alternative is to drive south a short way along the A1068 from Alnmouth, then take the second road off to your left (the road after the one marked Waterside House). This is a rough, rocky, unmaintained road with deep potholes, so either drive along it very slowly in a low gear or stick to walking in from Alnmouth. If the tide is very high, avoid this road as the parking at the end of it may get flooded. Once parked, it is approximately a 1-km walk to St Cuthbert’s Cross, following the footpath around the edge of the saltmarsh.

Best time of year/day

Lat/Long: 55.379395, -1.613344 what3words: ///nurture.trucks.directors Grid Ref: NU 24577 10099 Postcode: NE66 3QL

The classic view of St Cuthbert’s Cross faces north, so this is a great location for either sunrise or sunset, particularly during the summer months when the sun rises and sets to the north. For access it is best to avoid a very high tide.

St Cuthbert’s Cross at sunset in July. Canon 5D MI, 24–70mm at 24mm, ISO 50, 1/20 sec at f/11. Four images stitched into a panorama.

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AMBLE

Boats in the harbour of the River Coquet with Warkworth Castle in the distance. Canon 5D Mark II, 70–200mm at 200mm, ISO 50, 1/1600s at f/2.8, Nov.

What to shoot and viewpoints Amble offers countless opportunities for photography, with the pier and red-and-white-striped beacon at the pier’s end that leads the eye out to Coquet Island (an RSPB seabird sanctuary). Colourful fishing boats along the waterfront, brightly painted beach huts, wildlife and yachts coming and going from the marina all provide further interest. You may see seals swimming up the estuary here and you are sure to see characterful seagulls marching along the promenade and sitting on the lobster pots that line the harbour wall.

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Everything in Amble is centred around the harbour and pier and it’s just a short walk to the pier from the parking on Harbour Road.

Next spread: The pier and red-and-white-striped beacon at the pier’s end that leads the eye out to Coquet Island.

Canon 5D Mark II, 24–70mm at 24mm, ISO 50, 1/4s at f/11, Tripod, Mar.

DRURIDGE BAY TO COLLYWELL BAY

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BOTHAL WOODS

Above: A carpet of bluebells under a beech canopy. Canon 5D Mark III, 100mm, ISO 250, 1/160s at f/3.2, Apr. Top: The path running through Bothal Woods at bluebell and ramsoms time.

Canon 5D Mark III, 100–400mm at 100mm, ISO 640, 1/1250s at f/4.5, Apr.

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Bluebells and wild garlic (ransom). Canon 5D Mark III, 100– 400mm at 400mm, ISO 640, 1/800s at f/5.6, Apr.

Some other bluebell spots

Allen Banks

There are many places to photograph bluebells in Northumberland; you’ll see them spilling down the banks alongside many country lanes and the hillsides near Ingram Valley (see page 292 and many other places besides. Here is a small selection of places to visit.

The largest area of ancient woodland in Northumberland, Allen Banks is covered in an abundance of wildflowers each spring.

A carpet of bluebells and wild garlic covers the woodland floor in April/May.

Wallington

Near Ridley Hall, Bardon Mill, Hexham, Northumberland NE47 7BP

Historic house, a walled garden, rolling hills and bluebell woodlands.

5½ miles east of Haltwhistle, 3 miles west of Haydon Bridge, ½ mile south of A69 Parking: pay and display at Allen Banks. 3.3-metre height restriction

Take the A1 north to Newcastle then 20 miles northwest (A696, airport/Ponteland Road), and turn off on B6342 to Cambo.

A1 south to Morpeth (A192) then 12 miles west (B6343).

Low Newton-by-the-Sea (see page 126)

Free parking for paying visitors and National Trust members.

Above: A single bluebell with an out-of-focus (bokeh) background.

Use a narrow depth of field, in this case f2.8. Canon 5D Mark III, 100mm, ISO 500, 1/400s at f/2.8, Apr.

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THE RIVER WANSBECK

The River Wansbeck runs from Sweethope Lough through the villages of Kirkwhelpington and Mitford, the county town of Morpeth, past the beautiful little estate village of Bothal, past Ashington and out to sea at Sandy Bay, just south of Newbiggin-by-the-Sea. Like many of Northumberland’s rivers, the River Wansbeck is teeming with wildlife and lined with mature woodland and wetland habitats.

What to shoot and viewpoints There is much for the photographer to see along the banks of the River Wansbeck, and like many rivers, it invites us to slow down, sit and observe nature: the reflections of blossom and leaves, the ripples of the river’s ebb and flow over weirs, stepping stones, patterns created by the landing of a swan or mallard and even the dart of an iridescent blue kingfisher.

River Wansbeck at Bothal A sometimes-waterlogged path leads from the church to the river and a wire bridge and stepping stones.

Bothal Weir Drive out of Bothal west toward Morpeth for 1/3 mile (500m) and park by the road. The footpath leads west through the old sawmill to the weir and the river path.

Top: A spring afternoon at the River Wansbeck near Bothal.

Canon 5D Mark III, 100–400mm at 400mm, ISO 640, 1/1600s at f/5, May. Right: A mother and her cygnets on the River Wansbeck all taken with a 100–400mm zoom at a focal length of 400mm, from some distance away taking care not to disturb them.

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A long exposure of the man-made harbour of Seaton Sluice during a winter sunset. The harbour points to the north west. Canon 5D Mark II, 10–20mm at 10mm, ISO 100, 25s at f/16, Oct.

CHEVIOT: MOORS & VALLEYS – INTRODUCTION While Northumberland is widely known by photographers for its outstanding coastal locations, it is the quiet inland moors, valleys and hills of the county that will slowly but surely steal your heart. In the most northerly part of the Northumberland National Park you can find desolate moorland with atmospheric ruins, hill forts, rural valleys teeming with wildflowers and wildlife, waterfalls, crags, streams and pockets of ancient woodland, and you will often find you have them all to yourself. If you want to get away from it all, then Cheviot and the surrounding hills, moors and valleys are hard to beat.

On a clear day, from many parts of the county – even from one of the raised country roads that wind past farmers’ fields to Druridge Bay – look north and you will glimpse on the horizon Northumberland’s highest hill, Cheviot, or, as it is affectionately known, Old Man Cheviot. It’s a sprawling hill surrounded by a range of foothills and valleys that dominate the heart of Northumberland. Described in this section is an ascent of this peak from College Valley.

To the east of Cheviot lies the small town of Wooler and a vast plain of farmland, which then rises up to a long crag-dotted ridge and high moors before dipping gently down towards the coast. On these high moors are Raven’s Crag and Hepburn Moor that look across to the Cheviots from a sea of purple heather (in late summer). Close to Hepburn Moor is Blawearie, an atmospheric, abandoned old farmstead sheltered by a stand of old trees; along with single Scots pine trees, they are a trademark of these moors.

Wooler, and Belford (nearer the coast) provide convenient bases for exploring this area with plenty of accommodation, shops and places to eat.

Heading along winding country lanes (look out for stoats that can often be seen playing along the verges) and then along a single track road takes you to the estate hamlet of Hethpool and College Valley where you’ll find waterfalls, plunge pools, dippers, jumping trout, woodland, hills swathed in heather, hill forts and, if you are lucky, Cheviot wild goats. Nearby is Yeavering Bell which, after a short uphill hike, offers stunning views and is the site of the

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most significant Iron Age settlement remains in the area.

To the west of here is Kirk Yetholm, the northern terminus of the Pennine Way long-distance footpath, which begins 268 miles to the south at Edale in the Peak District.

To the south of Cheviot stands Hedgehope, Northumberland’s second highest hill, which can be climbed from

The wild goats of Yeavering Bell. 5D Mark III, 70–200mm at 200mm, ISO 400, 1/2500s at f/5.6, Aug.

Ingram and the Breamish Valley. This valley, like College Valley, is a wonderfully peaceful part of the county managed by a farming community that does a lot to promote good husbandry, as well as environmentally friendly farming practices. Here, just above the hamlet of Linhope, is Linhope Spout – an impressive waterfall and plunge pool. The community Valley Cottage café and

National Park Information Point in Ingram village is well worth a visit for coffee, cake, hearty homemade food; and whilst there, you can find out more about the area.

Previous spread: The road into College Valley. 5D Mark III, 100–400mm at 130mm, ISO 400, 1/400s at f/5.6, Apr.

CHEVIOT: MOORS & VALLEYS – INTRODUCTION

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RAVEN’S CRAG AND BOWDEN DOORS ABOVE BELFORD

Detail of a snowy Cheviot from Bowden Doors. Canon 5D Mark III, 100–400mm at 400mm, ISO 125, 1/2500s at f/5.6, Mar. Top: Looking toward the Cheviot from in front of Back Bowden Doors. Canon 5D Mark III, 24–70mm at 24mm, ISO 100, 1/20s at f/11, Tripod, Feb. Left: From the top of Bowden Doors. Canon 5D Mark III, 24–70mm at 26mm, ISO 500, 1/20s at f/11, Tripod, Aug.

Opposite top: The Cheviot with its hat on, from Bowden Doors.

Canon 5D Mark III, 100–400mm at 250mm, ISO 50, 1/160s at f/5, Aug. Bottom: Grasses amongst the flowering heather. Canon 5D Mark III, 24–70mm at 70mm, ISO 100, 1/125s at f/2.8, Tripod, Aug.

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RAVEN’S CRAG AND BOWDEN DOORS ABOVE BELFORD

Inland from Belford around Holburn to Lowick, there are often fields of opium poppies. The fields change each year so I usually go and stand on the crags at Bowden Doors in July and look north west to see which fields are purple. That way I know which country roads to take to find them.

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HEPBURN MOOR

Top: A wind-blown Scots pine on Hepburn Moor. Canon 5D Mark III, 24–70mm at 24mm, ISO 320, 1/400s at f/9, Aug.

Top: A family of fallow deer on Hepburn Moor. Canon 5D Mark III, 100–400mm at 400mm, ISO 250, 1/2500s at f/5.6, Jan.

Above and above right: Barn doors and calf at the farm at New Bewick on B6346 near Wooperton (///verbs.jubilant.shredder).

Above middle: Pheasants, non-native in Britain, were probably introduced by the Romans. Canon 5D Mark III, 100–400mm at 400mm, ISO 2500, 1/200s at f/5.6, Aug.

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Top: The 16th-century Hepburn Bastle just across from the Hepburn Forest car park. Canon 5D Mark III, 24–70mm at 70mm, ISO 50, 1/320s at f/9, Dec.

Spider’s web detail in early morning light. Canon 5D Mark III, 100–400mm at 400mm, ISO 500, 1/1250s at f/5.6, Sept.

Above: Early morning haze and valley mist looking north from Hepburn Moor. Canon 5D Mark III, 100–400mm at 400mm, ISO 500, 1/2000s at f/5.6, Sept.

CHEVIOT: MOORS & VALLEYS – HEPBURN MOOR

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KIELDER & OTTERBURN – INTRODUCTION To the south west of the Cheviot Hills lies a vast area of upland moors accessible via minor roads between the villages of Alwinton and Sharperton in the north, and the A68 – the road to Jedburgh and Scotland – in the south.

The Otterburn Ranges in the heart of Northumberland National Park are owned and managed by the military for training purposes, so although access can be restricted at times, public access is encouraged and this remote area features rolling open moorland with valley and hill views, wildlife such as grouse and curlew, hidden waterfalls, ancient ruins and military paraphernalia, including old tanks used for target practice.

On the A68/A696, south of the ranges is Otterburn, where the Battle of Otterburn was fought in 1388 and the Earl of Douglas led the Scots to victory over the English.

Otterburn is a good place to stop for a bite to eat and something to drink, and Otterburn Mill in particular is highly recommended.

Heading south west again, on the way to Kielder is another remote area. Padon Hill Monument is a fabulous cairn-like monument with superb views all around. It feels very satisfying walking along this stretch of the Pennine Way with slabs laid across particularly boggy areas. This is big view country with wide-open vistas, and there’s a chance you might see free-roaming ponies here.

Beyond these moors lies Kielder Water and Forest Park.

This sparsely populated part of Northumberland National Park was given Gold Tier Dark Sky Park status by the International Dark Sky Association in 2013. It’s known officially as the Northumberland International Dark Sky Park (NIDSP) and it stretches from just above Wooler in the north to Hadrian’s Wall in the south, making Northumberland one of the top spots for astrophotography in the UK. At Kielder its status is celebrated with the Kielder Observatory and Kielder Skyspace sculpture. It is well worth booking onto an event at the observatory; the team are really friendly; you’ll have the chance to look through the vast telescopes, and the talks are always fun and informative.

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If you like to mix up your photography with family trips, Leaplish Waterside Park at Kielder is lots of fun with a bird of prey centre, pub, cafe, restaurant and a wonderful walk by ancient beeches, home to red squirrels. It will also offer the chance for some great landscape photography.

Red squirrels can be found in a number of locations in the North East of England, including at Leaplish where there is a squirrel hide.

Canon 5D II, 100–400mm at 400mm, ISO 2500, 1/200s at f/5.6, Aug.

Heading south from Kielder towards Hadrian’s Wall country we take in Hareshaw Linn near Bellingham.

Stop here to experience one of Northumberland’s best loved walks. A signposted footpath takes you through a wooded ravine, passing over little wooden bridges

that criss cross the stream, and there’s a lovely reward at the end of the walk: the waterfall of Hareshaw Linn.

Previous spread: The vast Otterburn Ranges. Canon 5D III, 24–70mm at 24mm, ISO 800, 1/200s at f/11, Aug.

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KIELDER WATER AND FOREST PARK

What to shoot and viewpoints LEAPLISH WATERSIDE PARK This is a great place from which to start exploring Kielder. It has ample parking, a visitor centre and a large pub/restaurant that’s just a short walk from a number of attractions for the visiting photographer; the Beeches Trail, red squirrel hide and moored boats in the sheltered bay at Leaplish are all in easy reach.

The Beeches Trail From the car park, a wide footpath runs between the visitor centre and the Bird of Prey Centre. Follow this footpath down past a small burn on your left and you’ll soon see a line of beautiful, ancient beech trees ahead on the shores of Kielder Water. In autumn these magnificent old beech trees provide a burst of colour against the deep greens of Kielder’s pine forest.

This is a very popular location with accessible footpaths, perfect for families, cyclists and other visitors. A number of wooden benches are placed at viewpoints along the path, looking out over Kielder Water.

Squirrel and Bird Hide A broad, magnificent old tree marks the end of the line of beech trees here, beyond which the pine forest marches off in uniform straight lines into the distance.

Off to your left from this old beech tree is the Leaplish squirrel hide, although you may have already spotted a red squirrel or two before you even get here; more than fifty per cent of the UK’s red squirrels can be found in Kielder Forest.

One of the wonderful beech trees in autumn along the Beeches Walk at Leaplish.

Canon 5D Mark II, 70–200mm at 70mm, ISO 50, 1/60s at f/2.8, Tripod, Oct.

As well as the beech trees there’s a variety of subjects to photograph along the Beeches Walk including red squirrels and fungi.

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KIELDER & OTTERBURN – KIELDER WATER AND FOREST PARK

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Above: The view from the wall is often impressive, in all directions (VP2). Canon 5D Mark II, 100–400mm at 260mm, ISO 250, 1/1600s at f/5.6, July. Below: Cawfields Quarry and the quarry pool (VP1). Canon 5D Mark II, 100–400mm at 100mm, ISO 250, 1/160s at f/4.5, Oct.

HADRIAN’S WALL & THE WEST – CAW GAP AND CAWFIELDS QUARRY

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SYCAMORE GAP

Rowing boats, Crag Lough on the northside of the wall from Syacamore Gap (VP5). Canon 70D, 24–105mm at 70mm, ISO 100, 1/40s at f/18, Tripod, Nov. © Robert Harvey

Viewpoint 4 – Sycamore Gap The classic image of Sycamore Gap is of the tree nestled in the dip between two rises, with Hadrian’s Wall passing right beside it. Often the tree is photographed from the south looking north from various spots, including the small rise just to the south and from the slopes. Conditions vary so much here that it can be rewarding to visit at any time of year and at either sunset, sunrise or during the day.

It’s also a very popular location for astrophotography and it’s been photographed with the Aurora Borealis behind it and the Milky Way arcing overhead.

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To the north of Sycamore Gap, the land is flat and very boggy, providing ideal conditions for tall, graceful wetland grasses. These look wonderful as a foreground to the curving lines and silhouette of Sycamore Gap, especially in the autumn and winter on a foggy or misty morning.

Standing further back enables you to capture the tree in context, its familiar silhouette providing a distinctive feature in the landscape.

Underneath the sycamore proves a popular resting place, providing a great opportunity to take photographs of people out enjoying the landscape at one of Northumberland National Park’s most visited locations.

The Aurora and the Milky Way, Sycamore Gap, (VP4). Canon 5D III, 24–70mm at 24mm, ISO 1200, 20s at f/2.8, Tripod, Dec. © Robert Harvey

Viewpoint 5 – Crag Lough

The Sill and Twice Brewed

Crag Lough, the small body of water on the north side of Sycamore Gap, can be reached by going over the gap and turning right. This small lake, which features in compositions from VP1 and VP2, is just below the wall and Highshield crags. For a more unusual shot, get up close or even take photographs from the glacial lake itself.

There are often boats here and the rocky tree-covered Highshield crags are particularly attractive to photograph.

Situated at the turn-off to Steel Rigg on the B6318 is Once Brewed, where you’ll find an excellent pub and hotel, Twice Brewed. Next door to that is The Sill, a National Landscape Discovery Centre – a partnership between Northumberland National Park and YHA England and Wales. The Sill features exhibitions, event spaces, a local food café, a brand new Youth Hostel, a rural business hub and a shop specialising in local crafts and produce.

From Steel Rigg you can continue along the wall to Housesteads – the next location described – or head west along Winshield Crags to Caw Gap (previous chapter).

Both locations are worth visiting if you have the time.

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HOUSESTEADS

Housesteads is the modern name given to this Roman fort, but it’s thought the fort’s Roman name was possibly Vercovicium. Building of the structure began in AD124, two years after the wall was built, and it was in use for 275 years, until the Romans retreated from Britain in AD 400.

What to shoot and viewpoints From the car park follow the gravel track behind the visitor centre for a third of a mile (0.5km) up the hill to the fort and museum.

Viewpoint 3 – Hotbank Crags and Cuddy’s Crags To the west of the fort you can walk along the top of the wall a short way through a corridor of trees with a great viewpoint from a rock pedestal looking north. As well as compositions here, the best is yet to come: descend past Milecastle 37 then head up to the elevated positions on the wall above Cuddy’s and Hotbank crags, where there are classic views of the wall snaking away in the distance, both east and west. It’s just short of a mile from the fort to the furthest viewpoint on Hotbank Crags.

Viewpoint 1 – The Fort The remains of fort stonework make great photographic subjects, and can be used as foregrounds for wider landscape images, and they are particularly impressive looking east.

Buy your ticket to enter the fort at the visitor centre.

Viewpoint 2 – Knag Burn Gate Once at the fort remains, head right and follow a path around it. Below you is Knag Burn Gate, one of the few gateways on the wall. It was used by Roman army patrols to go north of their empire. The wall here makes an appealing arc, snaking off into the distance and punctuated by stands of trees. If you go down to the gate and the interpretive sign, you can head back up the hill north of the wall and join the footpath on the wall at the end of the fort and the next viewpoint.

Springtime lambs on the wall. Canon 5D Mark II, 70–200mm at 125mm, ISO 50, 1/1250s at f/2.8, May.

How to get here

Accessibility

Housesteads car park is situated on the B6318, 2½ miles east of the Steel Rigg/Once Brewed turn off. Alternatively, from Hexham take the A69 to Bardon Mill and turn right on a minor road to the B6318. Turn right and just short of a mile, Housesteads car park is on your left. There is a fee for parking and the car park has registration plate recognition.

The maintained path to the fort from the car park is gravel but it’s uphill. The paths around the fort and the wall are grassy, prone to being waterlogged and some have steep inclines. The path to the fort from the visitor centre has a 1:4 gradient and is not suitable for wheelchairs, however you can request at the visitor centre to drive up an access road to the museum and fort. Be aware though that, once there, the paths are grassy and difficult for wheelchairs. There are several gates to go through.

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HADRIAN’S WALL – HOUSESTEADS

Opposite: A frosty November morning at Hotbank and Cuddy’s Crags (VP3) looking east back to Housesteads – a 30-minute walk.

Canon 5D Mark II, 24–70mm at 28mm, ISO 50, 15s at f/11, Tripod, Oct

Best time of year/day Sunrise with frost and misty conditions is a treat, as is looking into the sun at dawn. If you prefer the light behind you (so that it falls on the land) then sunset can be better but watch out for your shadow if shooting to the east. For dramatic conditions, autumn and winter can be best, however I’ve seen some lovely images taken here of foxgloves on a misty morning in midsummer.

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ABOUT FOTOVUE

ABOUT FOTOVUE

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ABOUT FOTOVUE

Forthcoming titles in 2020 • Photographing Iceland – James Rushforth • Photographing The Night Sky – Alyn Wallace Check fotovue.com for the latest on release dates and a list of all our forthcoming titles.

Contact: mick@fotovue.com

ABOUT FOTOVUE

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fotoVUE guidebooks take you to the most beautiful places to enjoy and photograph.

P H O TO G R A P H I N G

NORTHUMBERLAND

BY ANITA NICHOLSON FOREWORD BY TONY GATES –

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OF NORTHUMBERLAND NATIONAL PARK

Northumberland is a magical place to visit and Anita Nicholson leads you to ancient castles; hidden waterfalls; gardens; unspoilt beaches; rolling hills; rugged moorland; sweeping views and friendly little market towns in this comprehensive visitor and photo-location guidebook.

FEATURING: • Berwick-Upon-Tweed • Lindisfarne • Bamburgh Castle To Howick • Alnwick & Coast • Druridge Bay To Collywell Bay • Cheviot: Moors & Valleys • Northumberland National Park • Simonside & Rothbury • Kielder & Otterburn • Hadrian’s Wall & The West For information about all our photo-location guidebooks visit:

www.fotovue.com

£26.95 ISBN 9 7 8 1 9 1 6 0 1 4 5 4 1

9 7 8 1 9 1 6 0 1 4 5 41 >