nagazasshi VOLUME 12, ISSUE 1
SUMMER 2019
FIVE THINGS TO KNOW ● BEAT THE HEAT ● ROPEWAYS ● COOL TREATS ● CASTELLA ● GLASS BLOWING
nagazasshi Hello everyone! Yeti here with another issue of the Nagazasshi. Can you believe that summer is almost here? We can hardly wait and with this issue, we’ll give you everything you need to know about making the most of the warm weather. For newcomers and those who are looking to brush up on what they know about the prefecture, Jin Chang and Darsheka Ranchhod give us a crash-course on Nagasaki. A Nagasaki 101, if you will. Learn about its history, its food and so much more on page 4. While summer is the best time to have fun, there’s no denying that Nagasaki gets hot and humid. So, how do you keep cool? Thankfully for us, some of our amazing readers gave us some of their suggestions during our April survey. Check out page 6 to see what everyone had to say. Last issue, we introduced you to some of the best hikes in Nagasaki. On page 8, Emmanuel Feliciano takes you even further with some of the best ropeways in the area. Ice cream and kakigori are the most universally loved treats of the summer. Turn to page 10 as Cassandra Fegert, Darsheka Ranchhod, J.S., and Chelsie Isbell give you the ‘scoop’ on the tastiest places in the prefecture to grab a cone or cup. Speaking of sweets, on page 12, learn about how Castella cakes are made as Will Tiley takes us on a tour of a Castella factory. Continuing our series on Nagasaki Profiles, Flipi Poggenpoel interviews Masako Hamasato, a glass artist. Go to page 12 to read more about this unique and beautiful craft. From here on out, we are also changing things up a little bit! Usually, we release bi-monthly, 16-page issues every year. Starting with our new 12.1, we will be doing 20 page, quarterly issues. While we will be doing fewer issues, you’ll be getting more content every issue. Exciting! Finally, this issue will also be my last as editorin-chief, as well as my final issue in general. It’s been an incredible two years working on this magazine. It gave me amazing opportunities to experience and look at Nagasaki in a different way, with some amazing people. I’d like to thank all our readers for continuing to support us, and I look forward to seeing what our new staff will have in mind for future issues! Yeti Mallavi Editor-in-Chief
CONTENTS
VOLUME 12, ISSUE 1
SUMMER 2019
4 FIVE THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT NAGASAKI New to the prefecture? Here is the 101 on Japan’s most western prefecture
6 BEAT THE HEAT
Learn how to cope during Nagasaki’s sweltering summers
8 OF TRAILS AND ROPEWAYS Part 2 of our articles on hikes!
10 COOL TREATS AND WHERE TO FIND THEM Get the scoop on ice cream at the best places in Nagasaki
12 LET THEM EAT CAKE
Learn about the creation of Nagasaki's most famous sweet - castella
12 A TOUCH OF GLASS
We get an interview with a talented Nagasaki glass blower, Masako Hamasato
18 NIHONGO ON THE GO
DIRECTORS: Dominic Balasuriya, Emmanuel Feliciano EDITORS-IN-CHIEF: Yeti Mallavi, Cassandra Fegert EDITORS: Abbie Philpott, J.S. COPY EDITORS: Flipi Poggenpoel, Darsheka Ranchhod DESIGNER: Evan Hayden SOCIAL MEDIA: Emmanuel Feliciano CONTRIBUTORS: Dan Cohen, Emmanuel Feliciano, Masako Hamasato, Evan Hayden, Chelsie Isbell, Cassandra Fegert, Steven Jankowski, Mamta Kumar, Yeti Mallavi, Will Morgan, Risa Nakao, Marisse Vega Perez, Abbie Philpott, Flipi Poggenpoel, Darsheka Ranchhod, J.S., Shimabara Sightseeing, Will Tiley, Matthew Wood FOUNDERS: Andrew Morris, Matthew Nelson COVER PHOTO: Evan Hayden INSIDE-COVER PHOTO: Evan Hayden DON'T FORGET TO CHECK OUT UPCOMING EVENTS!
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visit-nagasaki.com/spots/events facebook.com/VisitNagasaki/
New to Nagasaki? Want to know more about its history and culture, but don’t know where to start? Well, here are five things to get you introduced to Nagasaki Prefecture. TEXT: Darsheka Ranchhod, Jin Chang PHOTOS: Evan Hayden, Flipi Poppengoel
One of the most diverse areas in Japan, Nagasaki’s diversity stems from its history involving foreign trade. During the Tokugawa regime, the reigning government of the Edo period (1603-1867), Japan closed its doors on foreign influence. It kept only one port open, Dejima, Nagasaki. It was here that they traded with the Dutch. The Chinese also traded here as it was the only place allowed in Japan at the time. Today, Nagasaki is vibrant, with Chinese lanterns and European style buildings spread all throughout the prefecture.
The Tokugawa regime didn’t just fear Westernization, it viewed Christianity as one of its biggest threats. Newly unified, the country persecuted Christians, with persecutions reaching a peak during the Shimabara Rebellion (1637-1638). The rebellion resulted in approximately 37,000 beheadings and is one of the largest rebellions of the Edo period. Despite this, Christianity still flourished in secrecy and new practices were created by the kakure kirishitan, or, hidden Christians. Churches and several battle sites still exist today and can be visited right here in Nagasaki Prefecture.
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Beaches are also a great spot to visit, as Nagasaki is home to a few of the country’s best. Takahama beach in Goto will grace you with crystal waters and glistening white sand. Goto also offers diving, snorkeling and fish-feeding experiences. On Hirado, the stunning Hitotsuku Beach faces west and is perfect for watching the sun set over the East Sea. Neighboring it, is the bigger and busier Neshiko Beach. Be sure to also check out the Nameless Beach in Omura City. This beach twinkles like no other as it is entirely covered in small pieces of recycled glass.
For a night out in Nagasaki, try a splash of shochu. Iki Island is the birthplace of a Nagasaki favorite - mugi (barley) shochu. Iki’s mugi shochu goes perfect with fish dishes, a great pairing with Nagasaki abundance of fresh fish and fried goodness, such as tempura. Though the distillation process is similar to that of whisky, mugi shochu will leave you with a milder hangover. Its smooth texture makes it easy to enjoy on the rocks. Otherwise, mixing shochu with hot or cold water is also a popular choice among locals.
Shochu photo by Flickr user @ayustety
Also popular among locals is Omura sushi, pronounced Omura Zushi, a variety of sushi layered into a small square box, without any seaweed. Tracing back to 1480, when Lord Sumikore Omura regained power over Omura, the lord was presented with a layering of seasoned, vinegared rice, omelet strips, burdock root, carrots, shiitake mushrooms, fish flakes, and a distinct pink and green fish paste. It’s said that the warriors cut the sushi with their swords, creating the now famous Omura Zushi. Delicious!
The delicious Omura Zushi in this photo can be found at Gion! gion-omura.com
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TEXT: Yeti Mallavi PHOTO: Evan Hayden
With summer just around the corner, it means a whole lot of heat! Japan is known for its incredibly hot and humid weather during this season, and Nagasaki is no exception. While it’s great to have the sunshine back after a gray winter, sometimes it can be a little too strong. Which is why we asked you to share some of your favorite ways to keep cool during these hot summer months.
BE WELL EQUIPPED It’s time to pack away your HEATTECH and sweaters and go for something a little breezier. Most companies and work places allow for the option of ‘cool biz’, which means shorter sleeves and breathable undershirts. It’s also time to trade in your kairo (heat pads) for an uchiwa (fan). Also, be sure to put on sunscreen regularly, less you get burned!
STAY HYDRATED With temperatures soring above 40°C (104°F) on some days, it’s important to drink a lot of fluids. If you think you’re going to be doing a lot of walking, be sure to keep a water bottle on you filled with your favorite hydrating beverage. It’s also a great time to try out some seasonal drinks that are only available during the summer. Or, if you want to go local, try to make some of your own drinks with fruits such as haruka, plum or loquat.
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ALTERNATIVES TO AIR CONDITIONING While air conditioning is probably the most popular way to stay cool, you can’t stay inside forever. With all the festivals and events going on, you’ll want to venture outside! With Mountain Day in August, it makes sense that doing a bit of hiking would be a popular activity in the summer! In both this issue and issue 11.5, we shared some of Nagasaki’s best spots to go hiking. Why not explore them! Another option is to do your activities at night, when the sun has set. In June, small towns across Nagasaki will have firefly viewing festivals alongside riverbeds and waterfalls. Some recommended areas include Isahaya, Higashi Sonogi, and Goto. (You can also check out our 10.1 issue for more info!)
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NAGASAKI HIKES Part 2: Of Trails and Ropeways Nagasaki has a wide array of hiking trails for those who love the challenge (head back to the last issue for those trails). For those who prefer the heights without the hike, Nagasaki also offers the convenience of ropeways (cable cars). The prefecture has two famous ropeways, but if hiking is still your thing, these places have trails too!
For those hunting for additional hikes, keep an eye out for the Kyushu Nature Trail logo, for it almost always marks a great hiking trail. For more information, check these websites: kltf.info â—? kyushu.env.go.jp/naturetrail/ â—? pref.nagasaki.jp/sizen/1sizenhodou/sizenhodouidx.html
Remember these safety tips before you go: Take more water and food than you need. Hike with company or inform someone of your whereabouts and timing. Keep hats, sunscreen and bug repellent on hand and charge your phone. And always remember animals exist. TEXT: Emmanuel Feliciano, Flipi Poppengoel PHOTOS: Emmanuel Feliciano 8
MT. INASA ROPEWAY OPTION:
Access / Landmark: Fuchi Shrine, Nagasaki City
Mt. Inasa’s ropeway, in Nagasaki City, is an alternative to hiking to the top of Mt. Inasa. The ropeway is a convenient means to see the world famous Nagasaki City night view, one of the “World’s New Top 3 Night Views.” The ropeway ride takes about 5 minutes, and costs ¥1,230 for a return ticket. It is open from 9am to 10pm (9am to 11 pm from December-February.) HIKING OPTION:
Access / Landmark: Mojimi Valley’s Funeral Hall, Nagasaki City Difficulty / Duration: 40 minutes up
Mt. Inasa also has a pleasant climb with sections of forest and brief road crossings, where you will pass less frequented viewing-spots, before reaching the same (night) view as the ropeway.
FUGENDAKE ROPEWAY OPTION:
Access / Landmark: Unzen Nita Pass, Unzen
Mt. Unzen last erupted in 1996 and remains active. But this danger cannot hide the beauty of the area, especially the awesome view from its peak, at 1’333 meters above sea level. Its challenging slope is a favorite among hikers, but taking the Nita Pass ropeway proves to be an equally pleasant way to see Unzen’s magnificent seasonal views. HIKING OPTION:
Access / Landmark: Unzen Ropeway, Unzen Difficulty / Duration: 2 hours & 30 minutes up
Fugendake is highly recommended for those with a little more energy. You can start at the same parking lot as the ropeway, or further down at the Unzen Golf Course parking lot, an additional 40 minutes, and select from 2-3 routes near the top, including hiking the ropeway’s peak first and following the ridge to rejoin the main hiking route to Fugendake’s summit. During winter, hoarfrost builds up on the bare trees near the peak of the mountain, and what better way to end the hike than soaking in one of Unzen’s amazing onsen!
MT. IWAYA HIKING OPTION ONLY:
Access / Landmark: Iwaya Shrine, Iwaya (two paths) Difficulty / Duration: 1 hour up
One of the highest, but eminently doable hikes in Nagasaki is Mt. Iwaya in Koebaru. This hike features another part of the Kyushu Nature Trail, including two different ascents; one slope features widely spaced log-steps, while the other ascent is hemmed in by trees on the sides. Whichever way you choose, the view at the top invites you to sit back and enjoy some sunshine with your favorite beverage.
Summers in Nagasaki are no joke, and keeping cool can be difficult. For a cold treat that’ll ease the heat, check out some of the best ice cream shops around the prefecture!
TEXT: Cassandra Fegert, Chelsie Isbell, Darsheka Ranchhod, Jin Chang PHOTOS: Chelsie Isbell, Dominic Balasuriya, Risa Nakao Ice cream illustration pattern by Pixabay user @Pixelmary
KOJUSHI BEACH ICE CREAM STAND
SAIKAI GROCERY STORES
This summer, treat yourself to Kojushi Beach’s soft cream. With seasonal flavors that refresh weekly, be ready to make this beach your new regular. This soft cream is infused with one of Goto’s famous exports— sea salt. The salt is extracted nearby, boiled in a copper pan, and sprinkled into the ice cream. Taste the goodness in every mouthwatering bite!
Saikai City is famous for its mikan and is also the home of mikan vegetable ice cream. It comes in several unique flavors, including mikan cabbage and the refreshing and buttery mikan asparagus. We highly recommend it!
Address:
1255-1 Hamacho, Goto, Nagasaki 853-0026
Address:
Grocery stores around Saikai.
DAIMYO SOFTCREAM
MILKY WAY FARM
Craving something creamy? Daimyo boasts a fluffy, marshmallow swirl on a beautiful black cone. One mouthful is enough to satisfy all your milky cravings. Flavors include classic milk, seasonal favorites like matcha and black cocoa, and if you’d like a buzz, there are flavors mixed with alcohols like tequila or umeshu! Every season has something new, so there’s always an excuse to go back.
Featuring an array of unique ice creams and gelato flavors, including the favorite pistachio, Milky Way uses milk directly from cows right in their backyard. Every month, you can try new flavors using fresh, organic ingredients grown around Nagasaki! Enjoy your ice cream in their cozy shop or outside among nature.
Address:
11-2, 11 Hamanomachi, Nagasaki-shi, 850-0853
Address:
2274-1 Yunokicho, Sasebo, 857-0112
ORANGE GELATO
BAMBOO CAFÉ
Orange Gelato, located just a short walk away from the famous Obama foot baths, serves delicious seasonal flavors with great scenic views. They’re well known for using only the best local ingredients to delight your taste buds, and for having seasonal flavors like black honey and soy flour. They also offer a great selection of parfaits and drinks to satisfy every craving.
Hidden off the track, Bamboo Café offers locally produced seasonal flavors, with an array of toppings such as mouthwatering gateau. The café’s gelato boasts a rich smooth taste that can startle the taste buds. The chocolate gelato is rich and its pure taste of dark chocolate is enough to send you back for more. The café also offers a variety of drinks, including ice cream blends, if you prefer an icy gulp on a hot day.
Address:
20-3 Obamacho Marina, Unzen, 854-0517
Address:
875-2 Ogawachimachi, Omura, 856-0043
TEXT: Will Tilley ILLUSTRATION: Evan Hayden 12
Got a sweet tooth? Then grab a plate and dig in as Will Tiley unlocks the mysteries of one of Nagasaki’s most popular desserts.
When mentioning “Nagasaki’” to a Japanese person, often the first thing that springs to mind is castella. The go-to omiyage (souvenir) for any visitor to this corner of Kyushu, this fluffy sponge cake first arrived in Japan with Portuguese merchants during the 16th century. As the only port open to foreign trade at the time, the cake quickly became associated with Nagasaki, and the high price of sugar made it a prized luxury at the time. Despite changes to its recipe and price, castella still remains a sought after treat today, with its unique texture and distinction from Western cakes. This uniqueness has always been interesting to me, and after visiting the Shinsendou (心泉堂) castella factory in Omura, I was finally able to discover its secrets. To officially be distinguished as “Nagasaki Castella,” correct ingredient ratios must be strictly observed – 2 parts egg, 2 parts sugar, 1 part flour. While the egg and flour portions remain very consistent, manufacturers use a combination of mizuame (sweet syrup made from starch) and honey for the sugar component. This allows altering proportions to create a signature recipe. The high egg content, by Western standards, is what gives castella its rich flavor and soft fluffy texture. These 4 simple ingredients (plus a sprinkling of rock sugar for a little crunch) are all it takes to produce this delicious cake! Manufacturers also add flavorings such as matcha, chocolate, caramel, and fruit to create a host of delicious castella variants, some of which are only available seasonally. Retaining as much moisture as possible is key to the baking process. The cake batter is first poured into a square wooden frame and given a 10-minute blast in the oven. It is then removed, stirred, and sprayed with water to break up any dry baked crust that may have formed on top. It is then cooked between two large teppan hotplates at 200OC for around 50 minutes. This provides a direct source of heat and very little air circulation, ensuring the cake does not dry out. In fact, this process closely resembles making pancakes rather than traditional baking. Although unfortunately a little challenging to replicate at home, the Shinsendou factory can produce around 5’000 boxes of Castella per day, making a shortage very unlikely. It can be easy to overlook the uniqueness of castella compared to other regional foods, but a closer look tells us it’s just as unique as the prefecture it comes from! 13
NAGAZASSHI PROFILES: MASAKO HAMASATO TEXT: Flipi Poggenpoel PHOTOS: Masako Hamasato
Craftsmen are sometimes reclusive, sometimes mysterious, but always passionate in their own right. Luckily, Masako Hamasato lives right here in Nagasaki City and was very willing to share her love for glassblowing. Born in Nagasaki, Masako’s interest in glasswork was first piqued by a tumbler her family brought her after a trip to Venice, Italy. In high school at the time, she was searching for her own path just like everyone else. With a little encouragement and help from a teacher at her school, she turned her interest into the first step towards her future. After graduating in Tokyo, she worked across multiple prefectures before making her way back to the southwest. Indeed, it might well be that some of us have seen her work or exhibitions without realizing, as she has gained some popularity in the last years. When asked why people enjoy her work so much, she admits her style seems to be the main reason. One of her earliest pieces is a perfect example of this, a fusion of glass and fashion. For her masters in Tokyo, she created a glass-infused garment, which one should see to believe. Following that, she experimented more and slowly settled on the style she would continue to perfect and use to express the beauty she sees in glass. 14
Masako is proficient in lamp work (handheld burner) and cold work (cutting), but enjoys hot work the most (static flame.) To her, melted raw glass, ready for use but still only pregnant with possibility, is the most beautiful. She transfers this beauty, this crystal quality, into all her works. In doing so, she helps people explore their own beauty, to see their reflection in her style of glasswork and in the physical material. While she is considering an internship overseas to expand her knowledge of the relationship between glasswork and cultures, she continues her personal and professional work in Nagasaki City. Her next exhibition is planned for July 2019 and with a little help from her Instagram account, rest easy in the knowledge that she will let people in on the location and details closer to the time. While not actively doing so now, Masako is also well versed in teaching enthusiasts and creating custom works to order. A true jewel in our society, look out for her work the next time you see glasswork in the area. mhglass92
TEXT: Will Morgan, Dan Cohen
Summer is almost here! That means it’s time for the three big B’s: Beaches, BBQs and Bugs. This time around we’ll be writing about the most delicious of the three. Read on to learn some Japanese that will help you enjoy a nice Japanese バーベキュー (bābekyū - BBQ).
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If you’re organizing a BBQ, here’s one combination of kanji that you can’t live without: 焼肉用 (yakinikuyō). It means “For BBQs.” 焼く (yaku) means grill; 肉 (niku) means meat. Together they refer to Japanese-style BBQ. Look for these kanji to help you find supplies specially prepared for your BBQ! Here are some other common things to pick up on your way to the cookout: お皿 osara - plates or bowls 箸 hashi - chopsticks 炭 sumi - charcoal
トング tongu - tongs
網 ami - metal net to put over coals
たれ tare - BBQ dipping sauce
塩 shio - salt
胡椒 koshō - pepper
缶ビール kan biiru - canned beer
クーラーボックス kūrābokkusu - a cooler
鉄板 teppan - an iron plate that you lay over the sumi. This is where teppanyaki
comes from!
ブルーシート burū shīto - The indispensable blue tarp seen at every Japanese
cookout.
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Now you are ready to get grilling. When the food has finished cooking, don’t say 終わる (owaru - to finish; to end)! That means the food has run out! Instead, use できる, which not only means to be able to do but also means to be completed or finished. Use the following phrase (just replace the underlined word with your food of choice), to call everyone over before the food burns. 肉ができました！
Niku ga dekimashita! The meat’s ready! Common ingredients at a BBQ in Japan include: 鶏肉 toriniku - chicken
豚肉 butaniku - pork
牛肉 gyūniku - beef
ソーセージ sōsēji - sausage
キャベツ kyabetsu - cabbage
玉ねぎ tamanegi - onion
かぼちゃ kabocha - pumpkin
ナス nasu - eggplant
Now you’re all set to enjoy your summer BBQs! Have fun!