THE BLANK CANVAS ISSUE
STRIVING FOR PERFECTION Whether we're flicking through magazines or scrolling down our Instagram timelines, we are often presented […]
A LITTLE PEEK AT THE NIPPLES
nostalgia, OCEAN ~ WITH THE RELEASE OF FRANK OCEAN’S NEW SONG, NAME DISCUSSES THE WORKS OF THE MAN HIMSELF AND WHAT WE CAN EXPECT
NAME Discusses Lagerfeld’s Weak Attempt to Activate Feminism
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In June 2014, Rihanna turned up at the CFDA (Council of F a s h i o n Designers of American) in what would soon be known as one of the most talked about dresses of the twenty-first century […]
the arts ||fashion ||food || international || voices
NAME MAGAZINE DISCUSSES THE FREEDOM OF THE FEMALE BODY.
TEAM.NAME DIGITAL MAGAZINE
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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Keisha Bruce _______ FASHION Fashion Director Chloe Blows Features Writers Victoria P. Garcia & Lucy Jain Men's Stylist Nathaniel Sharpe THE ARTS Entertainment Editor Lauren Nwenwu FOOD & ‘BODY’ Food Editor Cheryl Culliford-Whyte INTERNATIONAL Travel Editor Filipe Batista Travel Columnist Camila Montiel VOICES Features and News Editor Keisha Bruce
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF keisha@NAMEmagazine.co.uk
GENERAL ENQUIRIES edit@NAMEmagazine.co.uk
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KEISHA BRUCE
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Editor-in-Chief of NAME magazine talks inspiration, commitment and youth.
“When I was younger I had a dream, a dream to own my own ‘thing’”
INSTAGRAM @_k.br www.NAMEmagazine.co.uk
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t is one of my greatest achievements to present to you, the first instalment of NAME magazine, The Blank Canvas Issue. A tremendous amount of hard work has gone into the creation of the issue, and this all couldn’t have been achieved without my support and my team. When I was younger I had a dream, a dream to own my own ‘thing’, any ‘thing’ that I could call my own. I began by drawing wedding dresses - I was going to become a leading Fashion Designer with my clothing line storming the runway. Once that had failed I drew up the plans for my hotel chain that would be built in the finest of destinations. I was a restaurant owner, an author, a therapist, the top female black lawyer in the UK, a leading psychologist, everything! The point was, that I wanted to own something. I just didn’t know what I was good at. Throughout school I was an all-rounder and still pretty much uncertain of my forte. It was only after I
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had been seventeen for around six months that I finally realised I loved literature. I was a creative child, loved reading, wrote stories about zombie gingerbread men and sat hours on end creating intricate stories for my crayons to live out. It was English that had captivated me. Fast forward a few years of my life and I’m studying English and American literature at one of the most prestigious Universities in the United Kingdom - very proud of this, I had to throw it in. I want to enter the publishing industry, but intimidated by the competition and understanding the difficulty to exceed in such a career, I put it off. Then back on. Then back off again. The truth was, I was incredibly nervous. Nervous incase I didn’t succeed. I needed to start somewhere… I began by writing a blog - as every single person that wants to go into the publishing industry does. I would write about things that I felt were
KEISHA BRUCE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
unvoiced in mainstream media, and said things that I knew others were just too afraid to say. It was a success. A lot of people from around the world loved what I had to say. I decided that there was room in the publishing industry for these voices. I also decided that there was room in the publishing industry for people not being regarded as ‘different’ to one another. The aim was to bring together a bunch of different identities, create a platform and share it with others. NAME magazine is concerned solely with the identity. Who are we and what defines us? We encourage individuality and the expansion of the self. The creation of this magazine was heavily influenced by critique. We want to defy stereotypes and truly expose what it is to be an individual with a unique mindset. Let us remove labels - ‘Plus Size’, ‘Whore’ ‘Black’, ‘Gay’, ‘Muslim’, ‘Transgender’- ALL of them
- ‘White’, ‘Skinny’ ‘Blonde’, ‘Dumb’, ‘Goth’. Without any labels, we are one. Now, of course all human beings aren’t identical, that’s not the point. The point is that we don’t have to use labels to be able to understand one another. We are all voices wondering around aimlessly. And that is the last we shall mention about labels. The Blank Canvas Issue - Many psychologists believe that all humans are placed on Earth as blank slates. They argue that everything we know and feel derives from our surroundings. We are a product of our environment and our pathways are determined only by our backgrounds. Nothing is hereditary. The World is your Oyster. Live life as if it’s your last day on Earth. You can be anybody that you want to be, don’t let anybody tell you any different. This World is your blank canvas and with your paint, your brushes, your crayons, your stencils, your fingers and your
mind, you are capable of mapping out an eternity of beautiful roads and seas… you just have to begin. The Blank Canvas Issue is full of fresh ideas, passionate individuals and dedicated creatives from all over the globe. It has been a pleasure collaborating with such likeminded individuals. Plato once said that, ‘the beginning is the most important part of the work.’
I believe that.
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KEISHA BRUCE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Fay is a still life and features photographer based in Shoreditch, London. She began her career in the industry after finishing university as a photographic assistant to various p r e s t i g i o u s photographers; from this she developed her strong and clean visual style and creative approach to composition and lighting. She has been shooting her own work for a number of years for a range of clients and regular publications.Â
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“When thinking about the theme ‘The Blank Canvas’ I thought about the elements that go into creating a finished piece, which formed the idea of exploring the elements often used to make the tools that are used by artists. We rarely think about the materials that an artist often uses when we look at a finished piece – something that without these tools, the piece probably wouldn’t have been produced. This series brings to life and highlights the many materials that are used in their creation. Exploring juxtaposition, composition and texture, the series take the materials out of context from how they would be associated and put together in their final form.” - Fay Elizabeth Harpham
CREATIVE DIRECTOR KEISHA BRUCE FRONT COVER @shotbyshe_ PHOTOGRAPHER NIKKI MARIE MODEL SLYVIA MEMETOVIC CONTRIBUTIONS VOICES Briana Ragler Keisha Bruce Mena Harun Jessica Chumber Qurat-UlAyn Fatima Jennifer Sterne Hannah Stacpoole FASHION Lucy Jain Melissa Roberts Keisha Bruce Nathaniel Sharpe Gemma Carter Chloe Blows Sophie Soar Victoria Garcia INTERNATIONAL Camila Montiel Keisha Bruce Filipe Batista FOOD & BODY Anna Lawson Isabel Finch Leah Boden Allyson Meyler Jordan Gallimore Greg Williams THE ARTS Adam Fitzpatrick Briana Ragler Jacqueline Stewart Luke Gratton Hannah Foys Fabio Crispin Sophie Soar Joe Evans
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COVER: a little peek at the nipples
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COVER: Striving For Perfection
FEATURING ART/ PHOTOGRAPHY BY Fay Elizabeth Harpham, Nikki Marie, Maria Gottwig, @thewavygallery
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COVER: Lagerfeld's Army […]
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COVER: nostalgia, OCEAN
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SKIN: CELEBRATING THE SHADES […]
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THE YOUNG LOVE STORY
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PORNOGRAPHY: A TOOL FOR SEXUAL AND SOCIAL LIBERATION
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COLUMNIST: LUCY STYLES…
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GET THE LOOK: HOLLY FULTON
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TALKING ABOUT BOX BRAIDS
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THE LOOKBOOK: MINIMALIST
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THE GOOD, THE BAD, AND THE (NOT-SO) UGLY
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STREET STYLE ON CARNABY STREET
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SAVAGE BEAUTY, S/S 1999 […]
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EXPERIENCE: ALEX BAWN, THE TATTOOIST
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TOP FOUR: ROMANTIC EUROPEAN BREAKS
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KITCHEN CUPBOARD MUST-HAVES!
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DAIRY: THE COMMON CULPRIT
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THE RETROSPECTIVE REVOLUTION
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THE EVOLUTION OF DREADLOCKS
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s k i n: celebrating the shades and lines of our bodies. WORDS BY
Skin Colour Many women, and men alike are wholly obsessed with their skin colour. Those with darker skin desire to be lighter, and those with pale skin desire to be darker. It’s a never-ending cycle that can only be overcome by true appreciation of one’s self.
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[above] photograph of model Chantelle Brown posted on her Instagram [right] the @Loveyourlines Instagram page
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Stretch Marks One of the most common anxieties caused by the female body is the noticeable stretch marks around keen areas on the body. Social media acts as a great catalyst challenging these issues and make a statement that it’s perfectly normal to have stretch marks and different body lines. Instagram account, @loveyourlines, does something monumental by promoting self love and awareness of real women and real bodies; scars and stretch marks alike. The Instagram page is a successful outlet for the women of the
the world to show off their lines and the true beauty behind them. Each post inspires the followers, showing that the female body is indeed beautiful, no matter the shape, the size, or the texture. The New Era Taking a stand against these societal “norms” is model Chantelle BrownYoung who is completely changing the fashion industry. She is a role model for young women; not only for those who also have skin pigmentation issues, but for all women that look “different” to the image that the media constantly exposes us to.
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DISCUSS: Does the
environment affect our Behaviour? WORDS BY MENA HARUN
In simple words; yes, the environment does affect our behaviour and we’d be crazy not to realise just how much our environment has shaped us. Think about it, how many of us are influenced by our friends and family, and how does this impact the way that we dress, act and behave? During our youth, “boys are primary socialisation was a vital part of our taught to act upbringing. It was the tough, it's role of our parents and carers to teach us the not norms, values and a t t i t u d e s t h a t a r e biological” accepted by the culture that we live in. We are taught how to communicate efficiently with one another, taught right from wrong, and taught to understand that “bad” actions have consequences. “Correct” gender roles is also something that is learnt through our primary socialisation. We are constantly shown how to be masculine or feminine,
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whether that be through playing with kitchen sets and baby dolls if a girl, and encouraged play-fighting and playing with builder’s equipment if a boy. The division of gender roles can be dated back to the 19th Century Britain but gender differences definitely existed before this time. The concept of separate public and private spheres within the Victorian Era influenced the differing behaviour and roles of both men and women. Many of us have seen parents turn to their sons and say “crying is for girls”; boys are taught to act tough, it’s not biological. Such traits are not programmed into us, but we learn them as a part of our culture and environment. When children act out a behaviour that nobody has deliberately taught them, we call this ‘unconscious socialisation’; another form of how our environment affects our behaviour. It’s not uncommon to witness a child pretending to smoke or repeat phrases that they have heard from their parents or older siblings. So if a parent does an action, the child will automatically believe that it’s acceptable and repeat it. Not only do we mimic behaviours as a child, but even as teenagers and adults we are constantly observing and copying actions from the people that we see around us. Our connectome is a map of neurons in our brain. These neurons are forever expanding and growing. The experiences that we have in life affect the neurons and shape our connectome. Scientists believe that the connectome defines who we are, every bad, good, and life-changing experience that we have develops our personality. Of course our environment affects our behaviour, the effects are entirely inevitable.
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Despite how drastic this all sounds, Kim isn’t the only parent who spends thousands on her child, in popular culture it is becoming even more popular for parents to splash the cash. Some would argue that parents like Kim are treating their children as mini adults, whereas others will argue that they are attempting to provide the best for their children. Kim Kardashian is an extremely wealthy woman, so is it wrong for her to spoil her child and give her everything she never had? Yet even with that said, if the rumours about North West having her eyebrows professionally shaped are true, then perhaps she is going overboard. After all, she is a toddler, not yet 2, and shouldn't be taught to be perfect.
THE HAIR ISSUE
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SPLASHING THE CASH ON THE BABIES
eg shaving began in the early twentieth century around the First World War for aesthetic reasons. As fashions changed, hemlines rose and swimsuits became more revealing. Companies wanted to extend the market so began to advertise razors for women by promoting photographs of hairless women - something never seen before. It seems since then, society has developed an unhealthy obsession with women’s hairless skin. We may even be more shocked to realise that advertisements for female hair removal products don’t actually show any hair being removed. We might sit and watch in baffled amazement as a razor glides over an already smooth leg, dappled in droplets of water whilst the voiceover tells us how we can now go out into
the world in CONFIDENCE. Is body hair so abhorrent that a brand cannot even show its own product doing the job it’s made for? In this day and age, hair removal is not such a ridiculous and unachievable standard: we do it willingly as part of our body routing. We must ask ourselves though; ‘Why do we do it?’ Those that actually benefit the most from it are the companies who, after producing endless versions and designs of the razor, make an extensive profit at the end. So, do we spend so much of our time laboriously shaving legs and armpits for our own confidence?Or are we conditioned to meet the standards created by decades of advertisement?
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eports in late 2014 following Kim Kardashian and her fashion obsession have aroused plenty of discussions concerning the treatment of her one-year old daughter, North West. The black, designer fur jacket that North was photographed in has sparked claims that Kim K is not treating her daughter like the child that she is. The 34 year old mother was even reported to be spending over $12,000 a month just on pampering for little North. Allegedly, around $2,000 of that is solely spent on North’s hair and personal hair stylist. Sources have revealed that the toddler also has regular massages and eyebrow shaping as well as owning a pair of Lorraine Schwartz
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a
little
peek at the NIPPLES WORDS BY KEISHA BRUCE
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n June 2014, Rihanna turned up at the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of American) Awards in what would soon be known as one of the most talked about dresses of the twenty-first century. In shorter words, she caused an uproar. Apparently to some, the custom made Adam Selman gown (dipped in Swarovski crystals) was just tacky, sleazy, racy and inappropriate. Wendy Williams went as far as saying that Rihanna shouldn't have even left the house that morning. Although there was plenty of criticism for the provocative look, she has indeed become a fashion icon for it (supposing that she wasn’t already one.) Forwarding to SS15 London Fashion Week, nipples were literally everywhere. World acclaimed Fashion Designers such as Tom Ford and Christopher Kane had their models bare all as they strutted the catwalk in luxury garments. Oddly enough, the audience paid very little attention to the half-naked women in front of them. It’s ironic how one female with two nipples revealed is slated but a catwalk filled with fifty nipples
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goes unnoticed. The only explanation possible for this is that ‘it isn’t Fashion until the Gods say so!” Fashion works in mysterious ways, there’s no doubt about that. There’s a hierarchy in the world of Fashion and right at the top are perched the World’s leading designers, second there are the celebrities, then beneath them all, there’s the rest of us. There are rules too, rules that we must never forget. Celebrities should not dress as extravagant as runway models in fear of ridicule, and ordinary young females must never dress as glamorous as celebrities. LET THEM BE FREE! The nipple is a beautiful thing. Men have them, women have them, hell, even kids have them. Face it, we all have two nipples perching on our chests (except for Harry styles who has four). The point is, ‘who cares?’. How can something be deemed inappropriate when men have been doing it all their lives? On the beaches to the runways, city centres to photoshoots, their nipples are constantly exposed, yet the moment Janet Jackson has one
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… of her nipples - covered with a pasty, revealed for less than a second during a Super Bowl halftime show, the whole world falls into shock. This small “incident” led to the creation of YouTube, a $550,000 fine, and made Janet Jackson the “Most Searched for News Item” at the time. Even Janet commented that “there are much worse things in the world”. Regardless of whether her nipple revealing was a wardrobe malfunction or not is besides the point. Why are we all so intimidated by The Boob? Is it because of the layer of fat which surrounds them or merely because we haven’t entirely moved on from the TwentiethCentury? FEMINISM It is about equality. It is about women being treated the same as men. We understand that we have a layer of fat surrounding our chest, but why does that leave our nipples regarded as something more ‘inappropriate’ than our male counterparts? Breasts have been sexualised and that’s where the problem lies. If something is deemed as sexual, then it will always be sexual. Many people cannot seem to get over the fact that the lumps and bumps on a woman should remain for her eyes only. It’s time for women to embrace their bodies, and not only embrace them, but flaunt them. The problem does not end with revealing the nipple, there’s much more to it than that. Why is it then when a woman’s nipple pokes out from her T-shirt or swimsuit it’s suddenly embarrassing? It’s about time women no longer feared revealing
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their nipples and bared all. Last April, actress Scout Willis , (yes, Bruce Willis' daughter) decided to walk around New York city topless for the day in response to Instagram’s policy which removes photographs of women's exposed nipples. After all, it seems entirely ironic that something which is made legal by the New York state law is so outlawed on social media. After this protest performed by Willis the campaign ‘Free the Nipple’ repopularised. The movement fights for the rights of women to be able to go topless in public. ‘Free the Nipple’ has been around for a few years, however Scout fashioned the movement again with her march.
INSTAGRAM/FREETHENIPPLE
The support that the campaign has from celebrities such as Cara Delvinge has caused it to go viral in the last year and in 2014 a film concerning the movement was directed by Lina Esco. The film was titled, Free the Nipple addresses the taboos attached to the public exposure of female breasts.
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ISTORY
“IT’S ALL ABOUT EQUALITY.
IT’S ABOUT WOMEN BEING TREATED THE SAME AS MEN”
It’s difficult to believe that it in the early Twentieth century it was also illegal for men to expose their nipples. Our culture is just so used to the man baring his chest that this concept is hard to fathom. In 1986, a group of feminists decided to remove their tops and bared all at a picnic in Rochester, New York. They performed this act as a form of civil disobedience against the laws that required them to cover up, but not the men in society. They women were arrested immediately, but six years later they were acquitted when the state’s highest court declared that all women had the right to be topless anywhere in public where men
could. However, the law stated that women could still not be topless for commercial purposes or advertising. The fight for equality has been around for years but changes the laws is an extremely gradual process. In Arizona a woman can be arrested if she exposes her areola (the pigmentation surrounding the nipple), or her actual nipple if somebody else is present. Seems a little drastic right? Well, in Louisiana it is specified that, “female breast nipples in any public place or place open to the public view with the intent of arousing
sexual desire or which appeals o prurient interest or is patently offensive” can receive a $2,500 fine and up to three years in jail. It seems a bit far fetched considering they’re talking about the nipple and not the breast itself. Before Dita Von Teese and Lady Gaga made their regular appearance with nothing covering their breasts but a small piece of fabric, the nipple pasty was a popular trend for erotic dancers and burlesque performers.It’s ironic how the woman is allowed to show the curves of her breasts, but not the part that every person on Earth has.
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om Ford’s nipple-pasty dress made a huge impact on celebrity fashion in late 2014. With Cara Delvigne, Kendall Jenner and Rihanna all glistening in these stunning fashion pieces. It’s almost set in stone that this will be the new fashion trend of 2015, even major high street chains such as American Apparel and TOPSHOP are catching on to the nipple-exposing movement. STYLE IT This spring we’re all about the ‘nipple peek’, as long as you’re doing it right! No erotica ladies, keep it classy. Well… try to.
GET THOSE NIPS OUT!
Cara Delvigne wearing Tom Ford’s Spring 2015 Collection, Getty Images
NAME has handpicked gorgeous garments for you to wear this Summer! Why not mix them with a black denim jacket or a long kimono? Don’t be shy to let those nipples poke out either! GRETA FISHNET BRALETTE 53 USD/34 GBP TORUANDNAOKO.COM WWW.TORUANDNAOKO.CO M V NECK LACE BRALET 22 GBP TOPSHOP
KHAKI LACE CAGED BRALET 10 GBP NEW LOOK
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THE YOUNG LOVE STORY WORDS BY KEISHA BRUCE
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t’s common today that you find young men with certain ‘guidelines’ about what they want from a girlfriend. The girl has to be ambitious and smart. She has to be fun and boisterous with the ability to remain intellectually powerful and classy. She must still obtain the ‘housewife’ characteristics, such as being able to cook a good meal and know how to iron and wash up etc. She must not reveal her body to anybody; those short skirts are no-go. Exposing her entire life on social networking websites is strictly forbidden too; she must be reserved. These lads want a female who is sexually limited; someone who ‘has not been around.’, slept with a maximum of two other guys. and most importantly, we mustn’t forget the main component; she must be beautiful. Beautifully proportioned, beautifully minded, with beautifully long hair and the eyes and smile to match. She must be beautiful to the man, and beautiful in the eyes of his friend’s too. While these young women aspire to be something that can be deemed as ‘worthy’ in the eyes of the males, what are the males doing? Why is it that young females must strive towards a particular image, when men continue to live as they please? The praise of sexual and violent behaviour consumes them. These males want the ideal female but have a ‘you get what you’re given attitude.’ They think that the best thing to offer a female is physical protection, but we are not primitive beings. A Note to the Young Girls: It is important to question what males at such a young age can offer you? Does he have any traits that are just as ‘worthy’ as you have made yourself? You have made yourself a prize so ensure he deserves to strike gold. Succeed for yourself and never for anyone else. A Note to the Fellas: If you recognise the behaviour I am describing then allow me to inform you of the route you are heading down… You want an ambitious female? Yes, she will be happy with you as a boyfriend for maybe a few days, months or maybe a few years. But eventually, that ambitious, goal-seeking attitude will empower her. As she grows she will realise that she wants a partner who can stimulate her and motivate her. She will desire a Man. She will outgrow you. In order to prevent this you need to step up. Force more maturity upon yourself. Encourage her to do better and follow in her ambitious footsteps in order to become strong. Every female wants a man with goals. Goals that are achievable and goals that separate the Boys from the Men.
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PORNOGRAPHY: A TOOL FOR SEXUAL AND SOCIAL LIBERATION. WORDS BY JENNIFER STERN
Pornography has always been in existence in one form or another throughout history. In ancient Greece and Rome, orgies, phallic imagery and homoerotic scenes were commonly illustrated. The marriage manual Karma Sutra’s illustrations would probably not have made it through the censorship legislations of past societies.
for equality. The internet has allowed pornography to be ubiquitous and free to access. While violent and degrading videos that have little to do with erotica and more to do with non-consensual domination, have become more common. In response to this, new laws
Richard Nixon once said that ‘pornography can corrupt society and a civilisation’ - yet, here we still are - with a backlog of over 1000 years of pornographic material pornography has not yet dragged civilisation to its knees. Nevertheless, porn has increasingly become a seriously harmful phenomenon for gender relations and the pursuit
were passed by the British government which censored a series of sex acts from porn. This censorship was only in regards to porn produced within the UK, bringing it in line with British porn that is distributed on DVD. Alongside ‘spanking, strangulation, facesitting and fisting’, female ejaculation was included on the list of
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necessary for sex. Men are presented as having no other emotional or physical role. In the present state of porn, the male is a sexual psychopath; their entire sexual identity reduced down to an organ. The porn that exists today is predominantly onesided and it is dangerously so. One-sided sexual experiences in porn do not have to make too much of a jump to move into the realm of ‘rape culture’. In 1975, Susan Brownmiller wrote that ‘there can be no equality in porn’ and that ‘pornography is the undiluted essence of anti-female propaganda.’ However,it does not need to be like this; sexually explicit videos should be able to depict real women and to deny the possibility of this, is to deny that real-life women experience sexual desire. If porn presented women and men having an equal role in sexual relationships, then perhaps this would begin to be mirrored in real life. Feminist porn would encourage the performers to genuinely enjoy themselves, which would rid the industry of the uncomfortable question as to whether what you are watching is consensual.
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acts banned to “safeguard children” and labelled as an act which could “pose a risk to life.” There seems to be no logical explanation as to why female ejaculation presents any more threat to the safeguarding of children than male ejaculation. Perhaps the government just wish to return to the Victorian era and deny that women find sexy any means pleasurable, or have any ownership of their sexuality. Ericka Lust, an award winning erotic film director argued that although porn does need to change - and on a big scale - this legislation is not the step in the right direction. The censorship passed in December, in fact, perpetuated the notion that porn is a world for men and in that world women only exist as objects of sexual desire, rather than individuals with their own sexual desires. In the majority of porn videos, women are the main focal point, her body is simply there for the pleasure of the male gaze. This type of pornography not only ignores the idea that women ‘have sex with men’, but it also puts forward the reductive notion that for men, a penis alone is
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Jennifer Lyon Bell, the founder of Blue Artichoke films told the BBC that ‘an essential part of women’s liberation in general is sexual liberation. Making any kind of pornography that genuinely arouses women and gets them off is important to women’s liberation. That’s part of why these films are feminist - it’s a feminist enterprise to show women’s pleasure.” Likewise, porn star, Nina Hartley, who on her twitter bio describes herself wonderfully as being; ‘feminist, pioneer, entertainer, kinkster and a wife’, once wrote that equality in porn could ‘change men’s and women’s attitudes at their deepest neurological level.’ The perspective of pornography needs to radically change. In its present form it is damaging. Yet its absence would bring to a grinding halt, any progress in sexual liberation and this would be quickly mirrored in universal freedoms and liberation throughout society. Feminist porn has started to make its claim within the industry with awards shows such as ‘The Good for Her Feminist Porn Awards’ which celebrates erotica focused on women and marginalised people. However, feminist porn should be the norm and should not have to exist on the sidelines within its own category. Feminist porn should not just celebrate women and marginalised people, while that it is commendable that they do, it should be an equal, gender neutral playing ground, celebrating the sexual identities of everyone regardless of whether they are male, female, straight, lesbian, gay, bisexual, or transexual.
“FEMINIST porn should not have to exist in the sidelines of its own category” @NAME_mag
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LIFE IS A BLANK CANVAS, AND YOU NEED TO THROW ALL THE PAINT ON IT YOU CAN.
- Danny Kaye
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034 COLUMNIST
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LUCYstyles:
Nasir Mazhar’s SS15 Collection
The start of the year always brings with it the promise of changes to diet, fitness and wardrobe. I’m constantly telling myself to introduce more colour into my wardrobe, but I’m so in love with the contrastof monochrome that I can never bring myself to actually do it. However, after reviewing some of the Spring/Summer 15 collections from my favourite designers and brands, I’m fairly confident that I can update my outfits without needing to add copious amounts of colour. Take Nasir Mazhar’s collections for example, there are so many pieces, (from both the men’s and women’s collections) that I’m lusting after, badly - it’s every inch of the ‘sportswear meets street’ collaboration with a lot of emphasis on layering. The mesh sports bra layered over sweatshirts gave new life to the crop top and sections of asymmetric material tied around the waist and shoulder added on a new layer of skirt and sleeve. These are tricks definitely worth trying out in the up and coming months as they act as a great transition piece from winter to spring - adding another warm layer whilst simultaneously looking innovative and creative.
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Another genius creation was the introduction of Mazhar’s monogrammed suspender belt with material flowing around the leg instead of tight stockings. These features gave an Eastern feel to the clothing at times, especially with the billowing trousers and asymmetric skirts. In the Men’s show, open waistcoats in rich golds and blues lay on the mens’ bare chests adding to this ethnic feel which could be seen as unsurprising due to Mazhar’s Turkish hertage. These additions give the women’s wear a feminine feel whilst decidedly making the men’s wear masculine. I decided to give Mazhar’s style a try using clothing that I already have to see if I could replicate the ethnic sports vibe.
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I used a pair of mesh joggers from Shopjeen to replicate the Middle Eastern influences. A simple black TOPSHOP sweatshirt combined with a plain black H&M sports bra reproduced Mazhar’s layering technique, and I donned a pair of red and white Nike Air Max to bring forth a sporty feel to the outfit.
I combined my attire with a black leather baseball cap from Zara, gold detailed Misguided belt, with a Lamoda layered gold chain necklace to give that hint of gold that Mazhar NEVER fails to add.
“I LOVED THIS OUTFIT. IT WAS INSANELY COMFORTABLE - I LATER THREW ON A BLACK ASOS DUSTER COAT AND WALKED OUT OF MY FRONT DOOR.” NAMEmagazine.co.uk
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ARMY:
THE WEAK ATTEMPT TO STIMULATE FEMINIST ACTIVISM INTO THE WORLD OF FASHION WORDS BY MELISSA ROBERTS
When Karl Lagerfeld integrated a simulated feminist protest into, perhaps, one of the most exciting and respected fashion shows of every season, responses were mixed. He broke the unspoken rule: never try to cross fashion with feminism. This rule exists for a reason, the resulting shit-storm that ensued wholly eclipses any point he was trying to make. I suppose if his goal was to garner interest (provided Chanel isn’t already a big enough brand) then he succeeded. After all, any publicity is good publicity… well, apart from when he referred to Adele as ‘fat’ - big steps for the feminist cause there Karl! Back to the fashion… A confusing couple - Fashion and Feminism - on one hand, the fashion industry tends to be dominated by powerful women and homosexual men. Yet, when pulled away from The Devil Wears Parada’ dream of the fashion industry, we all remember the darker side of the industry, ie. photoshop and anorexia, and all of those nasty skeletons are dragged out from the closet whenever we fancy a scandal. This is why it so difficult to marry one with the other; they say opposites attract, however, in this instance is there a lack of chemistry?
The resurgence of feminism in the past few years has resulted in the debate becoming an ‘in vogue’ phenomenon of 2014. So understandably, it makes sense that Lagerfeld incorporates one of the biggest trends of the year into his show. However, it seems that Lagerfeld has slightly missed the point. After all of the hard work that Feminists do to deter the ‘manhating’ stereotype, Karl and his army of “feminist” models march, and quite literally, stomp all over it. It appears that the definition of feminism was lost in translation when Karl was crafting his ‘masterpiece’ of a show. Instead of pushing the idea of equality, the slogans on the signs don’t reflect feminist thought in any way; a personal favourite being “BOYS SHOULD GET PREGNANT TOO” - of course, nothing says feminism like condemning men for their biological differences. Perhaps if male models were present a greater impact would have been made, and perhaps if Lagerfeld had dared to hold a sign himself, rather than lead his pack like a biblical figure then he would have made more of a statement. The crusade is also rather limited due to the nature in which it is
NAMEmagazine.co.uk
037 FASHION
LAGERFELD’S
appearing: the fashion show. The primary goal of the fashion show is to showcase the work of designers by draping them on the idealised most appealing male and female figures of the time. The models are simply a blank space only needed to enhance the beauty of the designs. The feminist march in the middle of the Chanel show was not there to demonstrate feminist views, but to aid the sales of the clothing and the brand identity. There is no proof to suggest that the models holding the signs actually believe the slogans that they are waving around, as they most probably didn’t make them themselves. This is the crux of the issue with Lagerfeld’s show: it isn't making a feminist point. Yes, it is raising awareness about feminism, however the message that it conveys is rather vapid. Simply because they have written a Simone du Beauvoir quote on a poster, it does not mean that they are suddenly feminist, especially when the quote is being carried by the people whose job relies solely on their appearance. The catwalk is one of the few places you would expect a discussion on feminism to arise; despite it being a place where the women undoubtedly earn more than the men, it is somewhere that people are valued purely for their image. Surely the focus on feminism in the fashion industry should be on the millions of women who work in magazines and with the designers powering the multi-billion dollar industry? Yet simply because Karl Lagerfeld decided that it would be fun to make a group of women walk down the catwalk with some megaphones and signs, it has been directed to the more conflicted side of the industry. On the other hand, maybe we should just be grateful to have such a powerful feminist leader in King Karl…who better to lead a feminist revolution than the man who once called Adele “fat”? Indeed, the force of the movement is definitely in safe hands with him.
038 FASHION
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B agá
ox raids with
M oura
even more, so this will be something Magá Moura, Fashion PR and Style to keep an eye out for! Word has it Lover, is an inspiration for many that she has already changed her hair young girls in the beauty department. colour to a mutli-coloured set, we The twenty-seven year old beauty, cannot wait to see how this looks! who was originally from Bahia, lives in Thinking about giving braids a go? São Paulo, Brazil and truly fits in to Magá says that “having braids is just her stunning surroundings. Her too easy to live with. I wash my hair innovative style screams individuality once a week with an anti-dandruff and she is a role model for us all. shampoo, and I often use Her most 1. ALWAYS USE JUMBO HAIR, IT’S the Bed Head After Party noticeable LIGHT smoothing cream which feature - and 2. DON’T KEEP YOUR BRAIDS IN gives my hair an amazing FOR TOO LONG what we love smell and makes it really 3. AFTER YOU’VE TAKEN THEM so dearly - is soft.” OUT, DO A CAPILLARY h e r Despite our love for HYDRATION g o r g e o u s , 4. ONLY USE SHAMPOO WHEN braids, Magá tells us that flamingo WASHING - NO CONDITIONER she does get the odd pink braids question or two from the that flow elegantly down her back. Its confused individual asking ‘what they undoubtable that braids are ‘in’ are?’, or ‘how does she sleep with what’s not to love about them? them?’ Ignoring this few selection of They’re neat, sleek and stylish, plus people, she commented on her social you can have them in any colour that media presence, saying that she often you desire! Moura has previously had sees her followers with pink box her braids in blonde, black and braids, and some have gone as far as purple. She was inspired to go pink telling her that she has been a huge when when she saw singer Rihanna inspiration to their lives. Individuality had given pink hair a try - personally, and confidence is what makes this girl we think that Moura pulls off the pink truly beautiful, hair even better! This year she plans “I’m always beautiful, even when I to experiment with her hair colour wake up. Flawless. Always. Haha!”
NAMEmagazine.co.uk
039 BEAUTY
TALKING ABOUT
042 FASHION
LB LOOK BOOK
NAME magazine collate the must have fashion pieces for February THEME: minimalist
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1. TOPSHOP LONG SLEEVE RIBBED FULLEN NECK TOP £15.00 2. MISS LEATHER-LOOK CULOTTES £35.00 4. TOPS 5. HOUSE OF FRASER PIED A TERRE TOTE BAG £75.00 6.MISS SELFRIDGE SHIRT WITH SYNTHETIC LEATHER TRIANGLE £9.99 (SALE) 9. H&M FINE KN £40.00 11. FOOTASYLUM ADIDAS BLACK ZX FLUX £69.99 12. H&M SUPER GUIDONE) - SOMETIMES
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Lose the prints and dress down this February. Minimalist fashion never seems to go out of fashion - think monochrome, stripes, blocked colours. What a wonderful concoction! Modernism at it's finest.
@NAME_mag
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S SELFRIDGE GOLD TORQUE COLLAR £8.50 3. RIVER ISLAND BLACK SHOP RICH SNAKE-EFFECT SANDALS £56.00 E TRIANGLE FACE WATCH £22.00 7. H&M BIKER JACKET £39.99 8. ZARA TNIT JUMPER £7.99 (SALE) 10. RIVER ISLAND BLACK TEXTURISED HOLDALL R SKINNY FIT JEANS £14.99 13. TWISTED TIME PROJECTS WATCH (DENNIS S - BLACK/WHITE £100.00
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STYLISTS KEISHA BRUCE & NATHANIEL SHARPE
044 FASHION
STRIVING
W
hether we're flicking through magazines or scrolling down our Instagram timelines, we are often presented with unbelievably attractive models. With their chiselled cheekbones, stupidly long legs and beautiful faces, one can often be left feeling inadequate in the looks department. The fashion industry, be it catwalk or High Street, creates a standard of beauty that is holy unrealistic and usually unattainable - with the assistance of Photoshop. Be it London, Paris, or Milan Fashion Week, none are without controversy often concerning the thinness of the models. With Kate Moss infamously stating in 2009 that “Nothing tastes as good as skinny feels” it still remains that thin is most definitely in. This perception of thin equating with beauty has had a knock on effect on the fashion industry as a whole. High Street giant, TOPSHOP, catalysed public outrage late last year when student Becky Hopper posted a photograph of a friend stood next to one of the mannequins. Despite being a size 8-10, Hopper’s friend looked significantly larger than the mannequin. It’s undeniable that thin girls should be represented and that they are beautiful, but there should certainly be more diversity in the body shapes presented in stores and on the catwalk. Using only one body type to model clothing creates the impression that this is the way that the clothing looks best, and that any other shape or size will not compare.
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FOR
PERFECTION: WORDS BY GEMMA CARTER
ADRIANA LIMA BEFORE AND AFTER PHOTOSHOP, IMAGE/VIRALSCAPE
This message is not only communicated through the mannequins in the store, but through photographs in the media, store websites and fashion campaigns. A brand such as Victoria’s Secret prides itself on the awe-inspiring beauty of its models, who are employed to look as heavenly as an ‘angel’. These women are exotic, athletic and stunning all at once, they have it all so why is it that they are constantly photoshopped to a point where they become cartoonish? They are the crème de la crème of the modelling world, with their annual catwalk show making women around the world want to be them, and the men want to be with them. Yet, they’re still not good enough. If Candice Swanepoel or Adriana Lima aren’t
“perfect" enough to naturally gracethe covers of glossy mags then what chance to the rest of us have? Of course Photoshop is used to polish the final product, and it is an essential tool within the media, but it does pose the question as to whether it has been taken too far? Meaning that our reliance on it has resulted in us, as a society, yearn for a standard of ‘beauty’ that is unachievable. Many young women today understand that image manipulation has influenced their own perceptions of their body. The fashion industry thrives on things being ‘in’, meaning that not only do clothes go out of fashion, but hair styles, skin tones, and ultimately sizes. Therefore, aiming to be on trend in every possible way is
“PLUS SIZE DOES NOT
EQUAL FAT, AND
THIN TWITTER/BECKYLHOPPER
entirely impossibly, we should instead, embrace who we are and how we look, meaning that we follow trends that suit US, and not the model in TOPSHOP’s latest advert. ‘Plus size’ has started to be celebrated more recently in the fashion world, but the sizes that sit between are being neglected. As a society we are focusing on two extremes and forgetting about the majority of people who sit silently in
the middle, not knowing where they belong. As a size 10-12 I’m not petite, but I’m also not ‘plus size’, I’m average and 10-12’s represents the middle child of the UK sizing chart, who undoubtedly gets overlooked. It isn’t the be all and end all of my existence, but it would be nice to be reassured that my size is OK, and not irrelevant. This battle of “Curvy vs. Skinny” needs to end. Plus size does not equal fat, and thin does not mean that the person has an eating disorder. … Fashion is an expression of creativity and a representation of individuality; the industry needs to stop being so narrow-minded. The human form, be it male or female, should always be included and celebrated in an industry that has such a dominant presence within society and the media. In terms of photoshop, it should be used to create a more realistic product. Everyone has imperfections, be it blemishes, cellulite or stretch marks, and the fact that these things are normal needs to be communicated more clearly to
DOES NOT MEAN THAT THE PERSON HAS AN EATING DISORDER”
society, particularly young people Quite a few of us would be lying if we said that we didn’t find ourselves occasionally wishing that we looked like the models in the magazines. However, it’s important that we don’t let this admiration get the better of us and or self-confidence. They’ve had the assistance of a make-up artist, hairdresser and stylist, as well as the old trusty Photoshop. They’re there to inspire a look, not to tell us HOW to look. Instead, glance in a mirror and realise that you are unique, and that you possess qualities, physically and internally, that make you just as beautiful.
NAMEmagazine.co.uk
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048 VOICES
THE GOOD, THE BAD, NAME MAGAZINE DISCUSSES THE RECREATION OF ONE’S SELF WORDS BY HANNAH STACPOOLE
What are the odds Kathleen Hanna, a riot grrrl and feminist icon, would want to collaborate with Miley Cyrus, a former Disney star? Seems unlikely, right? But, Miley has changed her former tween star image. Looking through her Instagram, you can see how she’s carefully crafted a new outspoken ‘bad girl’ look. It’s exactly what landed her in this situation and made her so famous. Her
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pictures scream ‘I do what I want and I’ll do it the way that I want to’. She’s using Instagram to portray herself in that particular manner, and in a way, we all do this. …..Facebook and Instagram have become platforms for us to construct images of ourselves that we want to portray, and it’s not just any image – it’s the perfect ‘photoshopped’ version of you. We filter out the things we don’t like and enhance
the things we do. We choose what we want people to see – where we are, what we wear, who we hang out with. There’s an idea that this has brought about a huge digital wave of personal female empowerment,but some are hesitant to agree.…………….… ….. A study by Dove suggested that 82% of women believe that social media has affected the definition of beauty. There is this constant fascination
with ‘thinspiration’ pages. Quite frankly those are bodies most of us will never have, yet women drool over that idea of ‘perfection’. But, looking at the white teeth, perfect hair selfies, we fail to realise the shot was probably one out of 150. It’s likely also been edited into oblivion. Apps that make us instantly lose 10 pounds and apps that remove spots we’ve spent hours attempting to cover up.
049 VOICES But can we actually present ourselves the way that we want to? In 2013, photographer Petra Collins saw her account banned after posting a bikini picture with pubic hair showing. We’re told to fit in with the norm and the message here is that an unaltered woman is completely unacceptable. Her photo didn’t go against the terms and conditions of Instagram. It was no more revealing than
any one of the endless ‘beach babe’ photographs posted. Yet someone reported it and it was removed. ……It is true that we can try to portray ourselves the way they want to, but it seems that a lot of what we show is far from the truth. It’s just what we want people to see. It’s an attempt to be the people with perfect hair and bodies. It’s living the perfect life. It just seems that the unaltered versions of
ourselves simply aren’t cool or beautiful enough for the world of social media. Instead we must squeeze ourselves into the norm. ………… A picture attracts a lot more attention than words do, and attention is often what leads to power. This is why more credit should go to the likes of Collins and Willis. they’re the ones going against the norm, attempting to get acceptance the way they are – unaltered.
AND THE (NOT-SO) UGLY NAMEmagazine.co.uk
050 FASHION
STREET STYLE
Tobias Buckley, 19, Student @shegz4thoughts Coat: TOPMAN Sweater: Zara Jeans: TOPMAN Trainers: Nike Watch: Michael Kors
@NAME_mag
Lucy Penny, 23, Hearst Magazine @lhpenny1 Coat: TOPSHOP Vest: TOPSHOP Trousers: TOPSHOP Shoes: Office Scarf: Versace Bag: Stella McCartney
051 FASHION
on Carnaby Street
Aletha Binfor, 30 Coat: Dickies Trousers: H&M Boots: Timberlands Hat: Jill Corbet
Chris Britton, 24, Actor/Singer @ChrisBritton90 Coat: Vintage T-Shirt: TOPMAN Trousers: Zara Trainers: Converse
NAMEmagazine.co.uk
052 FASHION
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN S/S 1999, ‘NO.13’
Savage Beauty S/S 1999: WORDS BY SOPHIE SOAR
A canvas can present itself in many shapes and forms, and in the case of Alexander McQueen's closing design of his S/S 1999 collection, the canvas was the dress itself. ‘No.13’ will hold a place in the legacy of fashion’s blank canvas’. Worn by the former ballerina and theatrical model, Shalom Harlow, the simple white cotton muslin dress which was tightly fastened around her chest with a layered underskirt of tulle was truly a showstopper. Placed in the centre of the stage, Harlow rotated on the spot whilst two robotic arms either side of her began to move; the model and the machinery react together and the dress is spray painted yellow and black in the climax of the spectacle. The colours @NAME_mag
were wonderfully fitting, with the dark aggression of the black paint contrasting against the bright, flamboyant yellow. This added fantastically to McQueen’s theatrical denouement. Harlow described her experience of the moment, in which the robotic arms ‘sort of gained consciousness’, she noted that the arms ‘recognised that there was another presence amongst them… and at some point, they curiously switched and the painting became slightly more aggressive.’ Harlow continued to explain the loss of control towards her own experience at this point. The machinery completely takes over and the audience watch as the final stage of creation takes place right in front of
WORK BY SARAH BURTON S/S 2011 FOR ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
REBECCA HORN’S INSTALLATION
fashion house, two years after his creation of ‘No.13’, he began crafting his own brand where he produced some of the most daring, fascinating
053 FASHION
them. The moment is unquestionably one of artistic importance. Throughout all stages of design and execution the inspiration of Rebecca Horn’s work is evident. The use of incorporating aspects of Horn’s installation of two shotguns firing at one another is perhaps a comment on the aggression and violence in society. Before being spray painted, the dress is already presenting a statement; it is incomplete.
Famed for her design of Kate Middleton's wedding dress, the label has continued to grow under Burton's reign. She has developed the brand to retain its imaginative flair whilst sculpting her own identity within. Her designs have included the S/S 2011 collection adorned with feathers, sculpted hips and a butterfly neckpiece. As well of this she created the “broken plate” dresses of A/ W 2011 with moulds of china forming bodices. The ‘No. 13’ finale reflects McQueen’s unparalleled creativity throughout his life and after his death. The dress is a part of the legacy he left behind and wholly supports
The Blank Canvas Rework The audience sit anticipating the end of the performance, unaware of what will come. They do not know what the robot arms will do and if they’ll do anything at all. The design is spontaneously unique, and the use of the dress acting as a blank canvas signifies the unpredictability of fashion. Since this wonderfully theatrical catwalk finale, McQueen continued to pave his way to renowned success. The East London school dropout rejected all of his expectations from an early age. During his reign at Givenchy, McQueen won ‘Designer of the Year’ three times. Despite this, he said that the job ‘constrained his creativity.’ Following his departure from the French
fashions. This lead him to greater success and achieved him further rewards. Lady Gaga, Rihanna and Kate Moss were a few names that linger amongst his famed following, and despite this, he still remained humble with brief appearances at the end of his shows. The designer was said to have been proud of his success at pushing the boundaries of fashion. It’s understandable why his suicide following his Mother’s death in 2010 froze the fashion industry. Soon after the search was on for a designer that was capable of walking in his figurative Armadillo heels. Perhaps unsurprising, Sarah Burton became creative director, having worked alongside McQueen for fourteen years.
his statement: ‘I want to be a purveyor of a certain silhouette or a way of cutting, so that when I'm dead and gone people will know that the Twenty-First Century was started by Alexander McQueen.’
WORK BY SARAH BURTON A/W 2011 FOR ALEXANDER
NAMEmagazine.co.uk
054 FASHION ’ve always been fascinated with tattoos. It’s the concept of having artwork etched into your skin and being able to carry these beautiful pieces around with you wherever you go, wearing it like your favourite hoody - except you don’t have to take it off to put in the wash. My parents would kill me if I came home with a tattoo anytime soon, however, my love and deep interest in permanent body art is so strong that I’ve had to find a temporary alternative. When I was a sophomore in high school, I started dating my boyfriend, who also has a passion for tattoos, (he has a sleeve, chest piece, and a shoulder piece!) so my interest in the art only became stronger! I began doodling leopard spots on my arms with a bottle of liquid eyeliner in my history class (pretty much every single day), and I started to envisioning how I’d look with actual tattoos. Over the course of time, I wanted more intricate and elaborate pieces “tattooed” on me, so I began collecting photographs of all the tattoos that I loved. When I found designs that inspired me and were simple enough to draw onto my own skin, I’d sit down with the images opened onto my laptop and choose a part of my arm to start sketching onto, using hand sanitiser and a cotton swab to fix any major mistakes I made which I actually made every thirty seconds. I got so addicted to “tattooing” that I’d ask my friends to let me practice drawing on them. I’d encourage them to sit still for at least an hour while I’d doodle on them with a variety of Sharpies that I’d carry around in my purse. The funny thing is, I would draw on skin much more than I ever actually drew on paper. Perhaps if I’d had spent more time drawing on paper, I probably wouldn’t have almost failed my art class! Until my parents get used to the idea of their daughter being covered in tattoos, I’m stuck using permanent sharpies to craft some not-sopermanent body art.
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VICTORIA GARCIA: The Artwork Painted onto my Skin…
055 FASHION Independent business are almost always difficult to get off the ground. It proves to be even more difficult when you’re a student without an audience, financing, or an extensive base of knowledge on how the industry works. It can all be quite intimidating, especially if you’re wanting to enter the fashion industry. New apps like Vinted, Etsy and Depop provide a great platform for new designers to test out their business skills and grow their independent companies. This was the case for Natasha Hutchins, a 22 year old student from Plymouth who uses the app Depop to showcase her beautiful clothing collection. Shop her collection now on Depop, @nhutchins1, or follow her on Instagram at @tashfaceeee
NAMEmagazine.co.uk
056 EXPERIENCE
ALEX BAWN:
Mastering the Art of Ornamental Tattooing
057 EXPERIENCE
“Tattoo Artist”
, the word screams the stereotype of the bald man, tattooed from head to toe, working in a small shop, dressed in black, looking like a biker and probably from a working class background. The list is endles along with every other stereotype in modern society. These stereotypes need to be banished from society. It is these that are causing upheaval. In Western culture the amount of people lining up to get tattooed has dramatically increased. The work is finally being seen as a form of art, rather than a taboo. We are appreciative of this art form, and subsequently, we are appreciating the artists themselves as every artist is substantially different. THE TATTOO ARTIST Twenty-three year old Alexandra Bawn defies any stereotype that one might conjure of a tattoo artist. Not only is she female with plenty of tattoos, she’s feminine, beautiful and doesn’t have a skull tattooed across her forehead. NAME magazine interviewed Alex to understand the art of tattooing, what her inspirations are and how to succeed in the industry, with the hope that we could kill the stereotype attached to this wonderful profession.
NAMEmagazine.co.uk
058 EXPERIENCE
WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST TATTOO DESIGN? The first tattoo I ever did was on myself! It was a little cherry blossom on my ankle. The first tattoo I did on someone other than myself was on one of my friends, it was a black and grey skull on his calf. The whole experience at the time was very nerve-wracking! Considering it was my second tattoo it actually turned out okay! We are still friends haha! WHAT'S THE BEST PART ABOUT BEING A TATTOOIST? It sounds cliche but getting to do something I love everyday and making people happy is probably one of the best things about being a tattooist. SO WHAT’S YOU INSPIRATION? I like to use a lot of henna and mehndi patterns in my work, so I would say I am creatively inspired by that particular art form. My personal inspiration is my good friend and fellow tattooer James Armstrong. HOW DID YOU MAKE IT INTO THE INDUSTRY? I was taught by Tom Caine - owner and tattooer at holy mountain. I met him at a New Years Eve party and after that we stayed in touch. I've always been into drawing and painting since I was pretty young. Tom liked my work and I started my apprenticeship that summer. DO YOU HAVE ANY ADVICE FOR THOSE WANTING TO GET INTO THE INDUSTRY Yes! Keep drawing the things you love to draw. Usually when people come into the studio asking for apprenticeships they bring a portfolio full of tattoo designs that we have all seen 100 times over. I personally think the most important thing in a portfolio is to show flare, your artwork needs to stand out.
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059 EXPERIENCE WHAT’S YOUR BIGGEST ACHIEVEMENT? My biggest achievement to date is probably being invited by 'Tattoome' to work the Warsaw Tattoo Convention, alongside Matt Webb, Anrijs Straume and Fru Duva. It was such a fun experience and I got to meet some really cool people. DO YOU GET NERVOUS BEFORE YOU TATTOO SOMEBODY? When I first tattooing I would get nervous, but not so much now. Its like anything, the more you do something the more confident you become. Everyday is different though, every person you tattoo is different. I think one of the most important things is to not get cocky and never become complacent. WHAT SATISFIES YOU ABOUT TATTOOS? Every tattoo I have reminds me of that time in my life. Not all of them have a specific meaning but they all have memories attached to them. Tattooing other people is satisfying because your making someone happy and it's something that they can keep forever.
We absolutely love Alex’s work and we’re almost certain that you will too! Why not follow her on Instagram to see more of her designs? @alexbawntattoo, or if you wanted to book an appointment then visit her at 72 Street Tattoo, Stoke-on-Trent, UK, or alternatively, you can contact her directly at alexbawn@hotmail.com
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WE ACCEPT: •ART WORK •PHOTOGRAPHY •DIGITAL ART •GRAPHICS •COMPANY LOGOS • FASHION DESIGNERS • BRANDS
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062 INTERNATIONAL
The NORMCORE in
São Paulo
WORDS BY GREGORIO CANDELORO
The city is São Paulo; the heart of the state and the reference for fashion across the country. The São Paulo fashion is famous for being somewhat “less fun” than the fashion from Rio De Janeiro and other cities that are less urbanized, hence establishing itself as the normcore of the country. Normcore referring to one who tends to fashion him or
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herself ‘averagely.’ As a result the individual wears sartorial pieces combined with sportswear giving off a casual, basic, and for the most part, boring, look. As if I (or anybody) were to pick Sex and the City’s Miranda’s wardrobe instead of Carries. Please!.THANK YOU FOTones associated with the normcore concept: grey, white,
black and even some nude tones, which camouflage in the city of São Paulo and making the fashionista prone to be seen as average. My tip? Just wear it with common garments! White socks with platform footwear, tinted sunglasses, wide silhouettes and even a fishnet pattern worthy of the 90s. Well, truthfully speaking, I’m just a boy, from the
interior that arrived straight in the capital of the state to devour and be devoured by fashion and I’m not pro average. My advice would be for us to not let ourselves become Norm fans, São Paulo! Don’t become a fan, world! Dare and bring back corny! ….That in 2015 we will be less average and more Liberace!
063 INTERNATIONAL
CORNFLAKES
I could say a lot about “volunteerism” in Tanzania. People from Western countries go to Africa to change the world and change lives - whilst making sure to take plenty of selfies with ‘poor little African children’ along the way, as if they’re at a zoo or something. I had a couple of the girls I taught English to over to the volunteer house after a lesson one afternoon. We were reading books to each other and generally just chatting. I had already followed the rules of common courtesy and offered the girls biscuits, which they had politely refused, but after a while, an elderly woman told one of the girls to close her eyes and open her hands. She then proceeded to pour dry cornflakes into them. She made it seem as if she had given the young girl a pile of gold - dry cornflakes. Why on Earth would you be so degrading as to give a 12-year-old girl a handful of cornflakes solely because she lives in Africa? People have this misconception that everybody in Africa has no food and no shelter, but that is not the case. They are not the starving people from the posters that you see plastered on the tube. Of course, some people inAfrica do not have enough to eat, but a handful of cornflakes isn’t going to do anything about that. In fact it’s almost definitely going to make everyone scream internally from awkwardness and embarrassment. Tanzania is beautiful, but many people I met there seemed to see the poverty as its main attraction, conveniently there for their own ego boost. Perhaps some more volunteers, and even organisations need to rethink their motives for charity and ask themselves who they are really going out of their way to help.
TRAVEL COLUMNIST CAMILA MONTIEL
064 INTERNATIONAL
4. Santorini, Greece Arguably the most romantic isle of all the Greek Islands, Santorini offers all year sultry sunsets, beautiful white-washed buildings and a stunning crystal blue sea. Welcoming couples and armed with views to die for, it is understanding why this wonderful destination has been crowned the Honeymoon Island. The seducing island entices visitors from all around the globe to indulge in the luxurious atmosphere whilst exploring Grecian culture and nature.
3. Lisbon, Portugal Lisbon - a city sometimes overlooked amongst its European alternatives - is an urban getaway with a romantic twist. Amidst its narrow alleys, palm tree lined avenues and seaside highways lies rich, Roman engineering constructions that adorn the city. The blue Atlantic waters wash the clear white sand, supplying the whole country with fresh seafood all year round. Lisbon isn’t your obvious choice, but perhaps the alternative, cool and young city that leaves you longing for more.
2,Heidelberg, Germany Our second pick is Heidelberg, a small city in the South West of Germany. With cobbled streets and a ruined castle overlooking the Old Town, you will constantly be immersed in the picturesque beauty of the history of Heidelberg. There’s plenty to do on your visit, such as visit ‘The Eighth Wonder of the World’- but nothing will compare to witnessing the heart-stopping panoramas. @NAME_mag
Romantic Europe
1.Burano, Italy
Our first hand picked romantic destination in Europe is Burano, a small island in the Northern Venetian Lagoon located 11km Venice. The tropical colours of the buildings that glisten in the green waters of the channels is the reason why this stunning island is our golden prize. Burano is a Fishermans island and because of this you will find multiple restaurants which serve fresh seafood daily. The beauty of this picturesque, quiet and cultural island is the reason why Burano is number one on our top four romantic breaks in Europe
r ou F Top
066 FOOD
COCONUT OIL: KITCHEN CUPBOARD MUST-HAVES!
WORDS BY ANNA LAWSON
Until 2014 coconut oil remained the secret of a select few, but last year saw the rise of this socalled ‘super product’. Google ‘coconut oil’ and up will pop a million and one ways that it can be used; from a moisturiser for both skin and hair, to an all-natural toothpaste! However, it’s for the use in the kitchen rather than the bathroom why many of us decide to purchase our first jars. The benefit of eating this stuff seems to be endless thanks to the fatty acids that it contains. These acids are claimed to have a huge number of positive health effects, one
being that it increases energy expenditure which leads to potential weight loss if eaten regularly. But they are also said to raise the ‘good’ cholesterol and kill certain bacteria, viruses and fungi, whilst helping to ward off infections. If that hasn’t roused interest then perhaps its benefits in cooking will.When you first dubiously scrape a blob of coconut oil into your frying pans, you’ll probably be thinking that it won’t enhance your dish as much as it does. Although it shares a similar consistency to lard in the jar, its low melting
point means that it instantly become just like the liquid that you usually cook with. Once you’ve added chopped onions and whatever else you’re going to add -then you’ll notice a fantastic smell will submerge your kitchen and this won’t just be the smell of those onions, but something more ‘yummy’. When tasting you’ll realise that the coconut oil has, strangely, created the sensation that you have dowsed your food in huge quantities of butter. It will give an indulgent extra dimension to the flavour; an element of ‘butteryness’. That, and a delicious subtly hint of
‘Healthy Oat Cookies’ Ingredients - 100g Porridge Oats - 100g Plain Flour - 100g Sugar (Use light brown sugar for a caramelised flavour - 100g Coconut Oil (alternatively, 50g butter, 50g coconut oil) - 1 tbsp honey or golden syrup - A dash of cinnamon 1. Preheat the oven to 180⁰C 2. Mix the oats, flour and cinnamon into a bowl 3. In a pan, gently melt the coconut oil on a low heat, while staring in the sugar and honey/syrup 4. Combine the coconut oil mix with the flour mix and stir 5. Make the dough into balls and pat these down on a greased baking tray, leaving space between each ball. 6. Bake for 15-20 minutes until golden brown (they may seem soft at first, but will harden as they cool For taste, finish the cookies off with drizzled chocolate. @NAME_mag
coconut. While it acts as a superhealthy, dairy-free substitute to butter in many Asian dishes, it’s buttery quality means that it is also a great substitute for butter and margarine in cakes and bakes. Try the recipe below for the ‘skinnier’ version of the classic oat cookies!
As a vital component of houmous and a tasty spread for toast, Tahini should be a staple in all food cupboards. But what exactly is Tahini? That’s a fair question as on it’s own, Tahini is not a commonly used ingredient for many in the UK. It’s actually a past made from ground sesame seeds, and is often used in Eastern, Mediterranean, North African, Greek, Turkish, and Middle Eastern cuisines. While the texture may be similar to that of peanut butter, the taste is somewhat
bitter. Although it can be used as a substitute for this popular nut spread, a drizzle of honey or maple syrup goes a long way to enhance it’s flavours. Tahini compliments fruits and vegetables fantastically, both fresh and cooked, and often features in lemony or garlicky salad dressings. It can also be used in desserts such as Halva and Tahini cookies. Just like coffee and res wine, once you learn to love the bitter taste of Tahini it will be hard to imagine cooking without it.
The Daily Gathering WORDS BY LEAH BODEN
I’m a feeder! Hands down. Undeniably I just love to feed people. My mother taught me; even if you only have bread and jam in the house, share it around the table. I was raised in a bustling Yorkshire home of warmth
and memories and a constant gathering around the pulpit of food. It was a daily ritual of civility and creativity, setting up the stage for our four senses extravaganza! I have amazing memories of conversations about politics, faith, family and often just murmurings from the day. Some days it went like this; Dad: “What did you do at school today?” Teenage Brother: “Huh? oh, nothing.” But Dad never gave up, he’d beautifully squeeze out of us the words and wisdom from our days even if we choked on our beef stew! Studies have shown that teenagers who regularly eat dinner around the table with their family are less likely to engage in illicit behaviour involving drugs and alcohol
and more likely to do better in school with better mental and physical health. But I guess it makes sense; a daily rhythm of gathering, smelling the melting aromas of the galley kitchen chef, sitting faced with knife, fork (and if you’re lucky a dessert spoon) and tucking into a pleasing plate of food whilst conversation circulates the wooden surface, resonating in heads and hearts. It’s comforting and you want to revisit that moment for the rest of your life. Especially when it’s gone. That ‘ahh’ feeling of family and heart happy munching and chatting. So, is it time for a daily gathering with your people? The dining room table; what a perfect place to start.
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067 FOOD
UNDISCOVERED FLAVOURS: TAHINI
Allyson Meyler from ReclaimingYesterday.com discusses the art of feeding one’s self
069 FOOD
The Lost Art of Feeding One’s Self
E
ver since feeding myself became my own responsibility, I have been interested in healthy eating and as I have continued to grow and change, so have my opinions on what constitutes a healthy diet. While at school in America, my meals were sourced from cardboard boxes and microwaveable dinners that were marketed to me as healthy. Calories and fat grams, rather than ingredients, were scrutinised, and success was measured in pounds and pant sizes, rather than my internal wellbeing. Everything changed for me when I met my husband during a Study Abroad in Greece. I decided to move myself halfway around the world to Athens, and my opinion on food and its very definition has never since been the same. It was as though I'd never tasted. I assumed that I had been eating food all of my life, but the packaged and processed fare that I had previously been confident in suddenly felt like a betrayal. How could they be keeping this from us? Why is it that I felt intrinsically guilty the first time I bit into a fig? I had been conditioned to conclude that anything delicious, I mean outrageously delicious, must also be terrible for me (and make me fat). But everything I put into my mouth was just that - outrageously delicious.Simple, unassuming, and better than anything I had ever tasted before. There was definitely something to this lifestyle, and I was determined to discover just what the secret was. Living in America, I continue to eat insanely delicious foods each day. The ingredients that I cook with may have changed slightly with our move, but the fact that I'm actually cooking and using real ingredients was the link that was missing from my
 pre-Greece diet. Life is hectic and sometimes the laundry piles up a bit too high, but the one thing I will never sacrifice is time spent preparing good food. It's easy to get caught up in the never ending obstacle course that is life, thinking that if you can just tough it out for now it'll be smooth sailing later down the road. And perhaps it will, there certainly is something to say about hard work and dedication. But it is important to remember that stripped down
 to our most basic skins, we are only human. We need nourishment above all else to function well and the source of that nourishment matters; a great deal, I would argue.
Don't let convenience dictate your health, you are worth the few extra minutes it takes to prepare a meal from ingredients you have chosen yourself. Make sure that each of those ingredients is worthy enough to enter your body. Feeding ourselves is just another responsibility that comes along with adulthood, but if we are incapable of preparing our own food at home, then we can never truly be independent. I don't look at cooking as a chore, but as a time to tune out the chaos that always seems to fill the rest of the day. Part of the joy of eating is in the preparation: the rhythmic, methodical chopping, the tasting, smelling, anticipating. All this leads up to the moment you are able to sit down and tuck into something that you created from start to finish. Please, never eat in the car or while standing. Please don't eat out of a styrofoam box while you thumb through your Facebook feed. Stop, take a moment to appreciate the nourishment you are about to receive, and then savour every delicious bite, knowing that you are truly capable of feeding your own self.
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070 FOOD
FILTHY COW: the preview WORDS BY JORDAN GALLIMORE
I’m Jordan Gallimore and I am an undercover chef, burger connoisseur and the founder of Manchester’s newest restaurant: Filthy Cow. I’ve never been one to follow the herd so fourteen months ago I set out to establish an inspired dining concept in the North West. At twenty-three years old, my first venture aims to indulge every carnivore’s wildest meat fantasies with the opening of Manchester’s most highlyanticipated burger restaurant this February. Drawing inspiration from my love of burgers, the time I spent in the U.S and most importantly my mother’s perpetual ambition, I decided to take the bull by the horns and make my dream of Filthy Cow a reality. This was not a task that I took lightly; the following months included covert undercover investigations into the existing burger scene by securing various roles in the UK’s most noteworthy burger restaurants. After this market research I created Filthy Cow, which is centred on a simple tenet; the quality of the burger itself. I dedicated much time and energy into sourcing the finest ingredients, ensuring all beef is locally sources, outdoor reared and from the best farms in the
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country. The menu that I devised is short and punchy, which satisfies even the most carnal burger desires. My ambition for Filthy Cow is to set the benchmark for memorable dining in Manchester, a restaurant that not only feature the very best burgers, but also the creamiest milkshakes, rustic skin-on chips and a wine list that regularly changes and is sourced completely from independent local producers. Growing up I spent most of my weekends in Manchester, and after discovering the wealth of innovative and creative culinary concepts on offer around the rest of the country, I wanted to bring a taste of it to my favourite city. I hope to establish Filthy Cow as the epicure’s ultimate guilty pleasure, serving up quality and indulgent food along with genuine passion and an overriding sense of fun. For everyone at Filthy Cow customer satisfaction is paramount, so we strive to deliver a consistently highquality product in an interesting environment and at a price that is excellent value for money. That was the goal fourteen months ago and still remains my mission going forward with Filthy Cow’s future.
Over two-thousand years ago, a Greek Physician said that “All Disease Begins in the Gut”, yet it’s only in recent times that we have started to realise just how right he was. Recent research has shown not only how the prevalence of digestive health problems (such as irritable bowel syndrome and inflammatory bowel disease) is on the increase, but also just how much the health of our gut impacts our overall health. For example, it’s thought that even things such as skin problems, depression and arthritis can all be linked back to the health of our gut. A huge number of factors can affect our digestive health including stress, poor sleep, and medication use, but diet is obviously an absolute critical area to address. A step that you can take if you think that you may have some digestive health problems is to stop eating those foods that you might be intolerant towards. Everyone will have different food that could be causing them problems - it is a very personal issue, however, one of the most common culprits is Dairy. Excluding air (completely!) form your diet for a period of time, (at least two weeks) can often sometimes be beneficial and help to improve your symptoms. This would mean excluding products such as
milk, cheese, butter, milk chocolate and yoghurt. Now, you’re probably thinking that excluding dairy products is nearly impossible, but fear not, there are plenty of healthy alternatives for some of the foods that you love, meaning that you can satisfy your cravings without adversely affecting your digestive health. Here are just a few suggestions for how to replace some of the dairy food products that you love the most. 1.COCONUT MILK Replacing cow’s milk with coconut milk can make a great health alternative. Coconut milk not only tastes amazing, but it’s generally much easier on most people’s digestive tracts and contains some really healthy fats. Koko Dairy Free coconut milk is a great product to look out for in the supermarkets. As well as coconut milk, other substitutes are oat milk, almond milk, and the ever loved soya milk. 2. HOMEMADE ICE CREAM Similar to the above, you could use tinned coconut milk to make some delicious ice creams. If you blend up some fruit - perhaps strawberries - and stir into the coconut milk before freezing then you will be left with a delicious and healthy
071 HEALTH
THE COMMON CULPRIT
DAIRY:
WORDS BY GREG WILLIAMS
You can even buy an ice cream maker for just £20 and use that to give your ice cream that ‘soft scoop’ feeling. 3.DARK CHOCOLATE Dark chocolate has numerous health benefits and contain a large number of antioxidants which can help to lower your blood pressure and prevent hardening of the arteries. Providing you buy the right brand then your dark chocolate will be dairy free. The higher percentage of cocoa in the chocolate than the better . Remember that dairy isn’t a problem for everyone - in fact, for many people it;s a good nutritious source of food. But if you do have any form of digestive problems then excluding dairy for a while can help to indicate if it’s problematic for you. If your symptoms do improve and you start to feel much better, the thoughts of going back to the foods that were once making you ill just won’t appeal anymore… trust me!
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072 THE ARTS
nostalgia, OCEAN WORDS BY ADAM FITZPATRICK
marks three years since Frank Ocean graced the world with his suave debut, channel ORANGE, and also looks set to be the year he finally unveils his holy anticipated follow up collection….Speculation grew that the singer was due to drop his album in 2014 when he told fans to expect the sophomore effort “when summer comes round again”. Of course, the summer passed and nothing materialised, but fans were treated a surprise in November when Ocean uploaded his new track, Memrise, without prior warning, onto his Tumblr account. The hazy, hypnotic production is teamed with his unmistakably soporific tones which hark back to his mixtape day and tracks such as Pilot Jones and Pyramids. In the new track Ocean maintains his introspective lyricism - similar to that of his debut - and alongside the softly pulsing guitar riff, the soothing melody of the track can only be described as the subdued, pot-smoking cousin to Hendrix’s The Ballad of Jimi. But what does this murky little two minute track tell us about his next album? If we’re judging from his previous work we see that Ocean isn’t looking to replicate what he’s already done before. Producers, Hit-Boy (JAY-Z, Kanye West, Beyoncé) and Rodney Jerkins (Lady Gaga, Britney Spears) are said to be working with Ocean for his up and coming album, and with his appearance on Beyoncé’s ‘Superpower’ back in 2013, we have a glimpse of what’s to come. Again Superpower showed a more subdued, yet lyrically unrestrained side to Ocean and it is this, coupled with the hit producers he’s speculated to be working with, can only mean that we can expect something remarkably special from the singer. Regardless of the expectations for the next ‘Swim Good’ or ‘Thinking ‘Bout You’, Frank Ocean’s new music is predicted to innovate. Listeners take notice: He’s completely and utterly unapologetic about his artistry, and that’s exactly what we should expect from the new album.
2015
074 THE ARTS
075 THE ARTS
PASSIONATE IMPERFECTION: EXPERIMENTAL EMOTIVE MOVEMENTS OF HEATHER HANSEN WORDS BY BRIANA R.
Throughout the last several decades, we have witnessed art take on a new form and approach. Artists have made transitions from traditional art mediums to two and three dimensional art mediums gradually throughout the years. One of those modern mediums is visual and performing arts. Artist, Heather Hansen has taken that approach with the use of her body, charcoal, and plain paper. Hansen is a fine art and production designer based out of New Orleans, Louisiana. Her latest exhibitions have proved that she is more of a visual arts expert rather than fine. Her work illustrates action on a 2D surface. She explores different combinations of movement and painting with the use of her body. The majority of her pieces are part dance, part performance, and art. She often creates her pieces in front of large crowds. The end results are beautiful curvatures with arches which give the perfect balance of imperfection. The imperfection of her work shows no structure, but absolute beauty. There are sharp and symmetrical lines throughout the pieces that show unity and harmony. Heather Hansen’s latest exhibition, ‘The Value of a Line’ is currently on showcase at Ochi Gallery in Ketchum, Idaho.
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076 THE ARTS
Again using Elphaba as an example, granted they have no magical powers, but the actress must connect with playing a social outcast, using empathy and application of personal experiences in order to immerse themselves in the character. They may not practice witchcraft, but many know what it’s like to be an outsider or to be judged solely on the basis of their appearance. The catharsis that is experience through the actors’ portrayals are what keeps theatre goers hooked, as each time, the actor is transformed into art through dedication to their performance. Still, actors are not the only ones benefiting from the transformative properties of theatre. The audience also enters the show expecting to be entertained and yet leave with so much more. Lola in Kinky Boots helps the viewer see a facet of life that is rarely represented and is in this case shown in a humanely compassionate light. Some may have never met a drag queen, and misconceptions are common, however, the show answers prejudice with a rather tongue-in-cheek approach. Theatre does not exist only to preach, it is also a form of escapism which fans of it seek and revel in, inspiring and influencing both actor and audience.
The word ‘Theatre’ for many people conjures up the stereotypical image of affluent people attending a staged performance to simply feed an affectation. What they don’t realise is the transformative properties that theatre can provide for both the viewer and the actor, and how often lives are changed during the process. The actor ventures into the role as a blank slate, their lives in the real world forgotten as they shape their character, employing a number of thespian practises to do so, but still the purpose is all the same: to fashion and give life to a new interpretation of a character. From Elphaba, the Wicked Witch of the West (Wicked) , to Lola (Kinky Boots) there is always a transformation that occurs. In the case of Elphaba, she transforms from brooding school girl to full-blown activist battling the Wizard of Oz’s battling the Wizard of Oz’s corruption; her character enabling the actress to learn more about her own transformation through performance in parallel. A lot of theatre is heightened drama, and for the actors, their roles often tend to be ones which explore experiences that they’ve never had.
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TRANSFORMATIVE PERFORMANCE IN
THEATRE WORDS BY JACQUELINE STEWART
077 THE ARTS
Potential Reads:
THE MASTER AND MARGARITA THE BOOK THIEF PET SEMATARY THE BEAUTIFUL AND DAMNED Mikhail Bulgakov’s frankly obscure and satire novel is enough, at first glance, to throw anyone. Perhaps it’s the Soviet Union setting, or that the original novel itself was translated from Russian to English – on the contrary, its unique and alluring setting in a colourful and inviting culture is what makes it so fascinating. With Satan appearing to be a very ordinary gentleman with a curious entourage (a witch and gun-loving, over-large black cat who can walk and talk) this joyous, perplexing read is likely to gradually instil your once baffled minds. Heads will roll – as you’ll very much see.
The Book Thief has remained my favourite book for the past five years, as with each reading the characters continue to grow and expand at every turn. W e f o l l o w L i e s e l Meminger through Hitler’s destructive dictatorship; what with dangers at every corner for her pocket sized family of Nazi resistance, the adventures and triumphs of life during war can be found within this stubborn little girl. Cleverly narrated by Death, Hitler’s most loyal servant, if this lone girl with her strength and determination does not bring you to tears, Death himself may have already removed your soul.
As Stephen King’s fourteenth book, Pet Sematary revolves around a family moving into their new house in Maine on a busy road beside the eerie Pet Cemetery. A major theme throughout the novel is death, the acceptance of death and the affects it has on people. Because this is such sombre topic, the book manages to touch you on a psychological level, and leave you shuddering. Often, y o u ’ l l b e l e f t questioning the decisions of the characters – and more than likely, you’ll agree with them. This is King’s most personal and disturbing novel yet.
A tragic satire from the voice of the twenties, Fitzgerald encapsulates the tumultuous flirtations and lavish self-indulgence of a young couple from New York, struggling with alcoholism, ageing beauty, and excessive materialism. The novel delivers the extremes of wealth and beauty, with personal passages inspired by the uproarious lives of the Fitzgeralds themselves. Spellbound by the Roaring Twenties, Fitzgerald the doggish nature of era, whose beauty is forgotten as quickly and unknowingly as that of the once gorgeous Gloria Gilbert.
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078 THE ARTS ith the birth of 2015 comes the perfect time to reflect on the year just past. 2014 was the year of the bendable iPhone 6, the devastation of Brazilian football dreams and of internet driven charity collections… oh and of course the year of the vinyl. Sorry pardon? The resurgence of vinyl in the past twelve months has been nothing short of an epidemic. With sales of over one million units, a fourteen-year high, the formerly underground vinyl scene has gone mainstream. With vinyl sales becoming a twentymillion pound revenue stream, it is now big business. Take a look at the artists pedalling the disks, however, and it raises an interesting question about the nature of modern youth culture. Artists such as the Arctic Monkeys, Jack White and Pink Floyd are the highest
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the
developing? Perhaps this isn’t a problem. Perhaps we are able to identify their contemporary frustrations with the frustrations of horrifying parents with a Beatles haircut in 1962. It is perhaps the case that the raucous sounds of Jack White’s nostalgic but nonetheless gritty music is the perfect soundtrack to disillusionment. Maybe it is easy to identify with outdated and oldfashioned forms of expression. What this kind of retrospectively driven revolution does leave, however, is a gaping hole for any sense of real revolution, or perhaps more importantly, evolution. If you’re young and want for somebody in the mainstream to reflect your contemporary angsts or concerns through the medium of art, then you’ll find yourself disappointed. Whether this is detrimental remains to be seen. What is clear, however, is that nothing is coming over the horizon to fill the void.
RETROSPECTIVE REVOLUTION Likewise, a glance towards the largest youth aimed films of the year and you’re greeted by ‘Northern Soul’ and Jimi Hendrix’s biopic ‘All Is By My Side’. Once again both of these movies evidence an obsession with regressive rather than progressive youth culture. both of these movies did very well, so audiences clearly responded to the retelling of what it was to be young and rebellious in the late 60’s. The question though is; does this deplete any possibility of a contemporary youth movement? If you reflect on it, there is no real equivalent to the 60’s, 70’s or even the 90’s youth-driven cultural movements from recent years. Most teenagers’ and young adults’ only experience of youth rebellion stems from the possibilities of stories being handed from from older siblings who were active during the Britpop and Cool Britannia movements. The teenage years, the limbo between childhood and independence, are arguably when self-definition is most needed and this is where pop culture steps in for most. However, if the culture we now inhale is rose-tinted memorabilia of a bygone era, a pastiche of formerly transgressive behaviour, what chance is there of youth movements
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WORDS BY JOE EVANS
“THE TEENAGE YEARS THE LIMBO BETWEEN CHILDHOOD AND INDEPENDENCE - ARE ARGUABLY WHEN SELFDEFINITION IS MOST NEEDED AND THIS IS WHERE POP-
CULTURE STEPS IN FOR MOST.”
079 THE ARTS
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KEVIN HART NETFLIX INSTITUTIONALISED RACISM COCONUTS PUPPIES
NO MILK! 2014 FOREST HILLS DRIVE BRAIDS EXERCISE CIROC JENNER’S LIPS
GEOMETRIC TATTOOS
#JESUISCHARLIE SNOW CRAZY CARA
TIMBERLANDS
FOOLISH KANYE WEST FANS
HARPER LEE
Yawning over the beloved Instagram timeline always induces a few laughs here and there. Kevin Hart calling out Marlon Wayans for his “deflated football looking-head” is always worth a giggle. Kevin Hart this - Kevin Hart that. The memes, fifteen second video clips, endless photographs and repeated phrases. This guy’s everywhere! and what about Kendall Jenner’s plumped lips? She’s been the latest target of a few memes. Poor girl. Scrolling… scrolling..scrolling… ah, there’s another individual who’s converted to the antimilk society. Great! Just what we needed to know. ‘Hands up, Don’t Shoot’, ‘Fuck the police’ - that stimulates critical thought. There’s another #jesuischarlie hashtag circulating. No comment. Snow. Snow. More snow. It's as though everybody on earth needs to confirm publicly that yes, there is snow outside. Why are so many people into the gym nowadays? Every five photos there’s somebody tensing their muscles in the mirror - at least it's healthy. Everybody always likes the same things at the same time; take cats for example. Everybody loved them, but now everybody seems to hate them at the small canines have taken the thrown - that’s a good thing though, I’m more of a dog person myself.
TRENDING
ANCIENT
The Maasai warriors found in Northern Kenya claim that they have been wearing dreadlocks for as long as their race has lived!
The Chanel catwalk in 2014 saw the welcomed dreadlocks into the world of fashion. With them being respected as a fashion statement, we're expecting the trend to popularise once again.
Ancient Egypt saw the first known examples of dreadlocks. Mummified remains have been recovered where the figures are seen with locked hair and wigs.
Dreadlocks were popularised with the rise and fall of Reggae legend, Bob Marley! Associated with Rastafarian culture, the dreadlocks allowed the hair to be in its natural state. Hippie culture showed the transgression from dreadlocks being something merely associated with black people, to something that was universal.
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EVOLUTION OF DREADS
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FOUNDER: KEISHA BRUCE, 2014