Threads Written and Currated by Erin K. Chute
Threads Written and Currated by Erin K. Chute
Right: Fashion sketches on sewing pattern package
Contents
1980’s
1930’s
Introduction 1960’s 1900’s 1940’s 1910’s
1990’s
1950’s 1920’s
2000’s 1970’s
Introduction LEFT: Image of 1920’s top from the Metropolitian Museum
I
n the last 100 years, fashion has drastically changed. Trends came and went, and the tone of each decade changed. Patterns and colors became icons of each time period. The styles changed dramatically. A famous Audrey Hepburn quote says, “Elegance is the only beauty that never fades.”
Throughout this book, you will see the timeline of styles and trends through 100 years of fashion. Shows like Downton Abby, Good Girls Revolt, and Friends display some of the time periods most ground breaking looks.
Jump into the past and follow the thread through time with looks from 10 different decades. See what they were wearing 100... 50... 20 years ago. Stich yourself into each decade and see the origins of todays fashion trends...
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Right: Fashion sketches on sewing pattern package
Below: I Love Lucy sitcom Series Ad
Far Right: Posing for a photo
Middle: Entering from the grand staircase. Women wore big flowing skirts.
1900’s A
s the Victorian era drew to its close, skirts for both day and evening were elongated at the back to form a train. The skirt’s silhouette was slim at the hip, achieved with pleating and smocking. Any fullness in the skirt was confined to below the knee. Decoration was applied using large and small tucks, hem ruffles, buttons and lace insertions. For day, ladies wore very high necks and the bosom was undefined with fullness over the boned bodice that would often drop to below the waist. Sleeves were generally fitted from shoulder to elbow from where fullness would extend to the wrist. It was not unusual to see a double-sleeved effect, which featured a small, gathered under sleeve revealed at the wrist.
Evening dresses were more daring and were worn off the shoulder, with or without sleeves. The Edwardian era began mid-decade and initially took a retro step, delighting in small balloon sleeves and very nipped-in waists last seen in 1895. Skirts, although full, were rounded and fabrics were soft and allowed to drape. It was de rigueur to wear a wide sash or cummerbund.
LEFT: Pattern derived from 1900’s dress RIGHT: 1900’s dress
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RIGHT: 1900’s photograph of young girls in dresses
MIDDLE: 1900’s dress portrait
FAR RIGHT: Photograph of 1900’s woman on stairs MIDDLE: Posing for a photo
1900’s 7
Right: Fashion sketches on sewing pattern package
Below: I Love Lucy sitcom Series Ad
Far Right: Posing for a photo
Middle: Entering from the grand staircase. Women wore big flowing skirts.
1910’s I
t is the age of Downton Abbey. Shape and silhouette constantly evolved. More radical styles like the hobble skirt and the lampshade skirt each enjoyed their moment in the sun. The Edwardians became more playful and innovative, taking an interest in asymmetrical draping techniques. Considerably less boning was used in bodices and boning was now solely for supporting the shape as opposed to changing it. Suits were fashionable for daywear and walking was eased due to a really big fashion happening – the skirt hem rose to the ankle!
The First World War provoked yet another fashion – skirts that rose to well above the ankle. Bodices tended to lean towards the higher waist and skirts were full and tiered. Other popular fancies were bat-wing sleeves, over-drapes and flying panel skirts. Wool and linen walking suits were appreciated for their practicality. Asymmetrical designs were featured in bodices and skirts and preferred fabrics were satin, taffeta, chiffon and lightweight silks, with washable cottons to ease hot summers.
LEFT: Pattern derived from 1910’s dress RIGHT: 1910’s dress
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RIGHT: Fashion sketches for Vogue Magazine
BELOW: Downton Abby 1910’s fashion
FAR RIGHT: Mother and daughter pose for 1910’s portrait
MIDDLE: 1910’s portrait
1910’s 11
Right: Fashion sketches on sewing pattern package
Below: I Love Lucy sitcom Series Ad
Far Right: Posing for a photo
Middle: Entering from the grand staircase. Women wore big flowing skirts.
1920’s W
orld War I ended and euphoria was the order of the day. Fashion responded by dropping waists to high hip levels and dresses became unfitted. While some gowns retained the design complexity of the Teens, the trend was toward Simplicity. Simple bodices, shaped using only a few tucks or shirring at the shoulders, or a little gather at the side seam reflected this new freedom. As the decade began hems lines perched above the ankle but in only three years skirt lengths had risen to unprecedented and – to some – shocking heights!
As the “flapper era” became established, hemlines continued their scandalous ascent and had reached the knee by 1926. The drop waist continued its popularity but skirts and bodices became more complex with seaming, circular flounces and floating panels. Decorative seaming, contrasting fabrics, and overlays began to appear. Quality, previously apparent by means of complicated fit and construction was now expressing itself through fabric and by manipulating a single layer of material. Time-consuming and costly beading was immensely popular, especially for dance dresses.
LEFT: Pattern derived from 1920’s dress RIGHT: 1920’s dress
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RIGHT: 1920’s Fashion Sketckes
BELOW: 1920’s women walking down the street
FAR RIGHT: Scene from the Great Gatsby
MIDDLE: 1920’s dress portrait
1920’s 15
1930’s G
reat innovations in fashion were seen during the Depression despite the economic hardships of the time. Designers experimented with new cuts and new materials. For evening, the bias cut gown was favored (as created by Madeleine Vionnet) in silk velvet or silk satin. Synthetic fabrics such as rayon and nylon were in common use for everyday garments.
After 1935, zippers were employed as a more efficient alternative to labor-intensive hook-and-eye closures. Indeed, in the hands of prestigious houses such as Schiaparelli they became design elements. Costume jewelry, popularized by Chanel’s signature faux pearl strands, became an accessory staple. By 1938, small shoulder pads had become fashionable, heralding the shoulder emphasis of the 1940s. This, in spite of the Depression, was another grand era for Haute Couture. Lanvin, Molyneux, Mainbocher, Patou and Maggy Rouff all had active fashion houses as did Vionnet, Chanel and Schiaparelli. The movies influenced how women dressed and what they thought about fashion.
LEFT: Pattern derived from 1930’s dress RIGHT: 1930’s dress
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GHT: 1930’s Family
BELOW: 1930’s Clothing Ad
FAR RIGHT: 1930’s Friends walking down street MIDDLE: 1930’s portrait
1930’s
Right: Fashion sketches on sewing pattern package
Below: I Love Lucy sitcom Series Ad
Far Right: Posing for a photo
Middle: Entering from the grand staircase. Women wore big flowing skirts.
1940’s B
y the time the United States emerged from the Depression, Europe and much of Asia were already at war. Paris under Nazi occupation was a disaster for Haute Couture and one that gave great opportunity to the growing fashion industry in the United States.
Wartime regulations such as L-85, which regulated how much fabric and what garment types could be manufactured, were applied to both men’s and women’s clothing. Materials that were needed for military purposes were restricted for civilian use. The war also brought social and cultural change as greater numbers of women entered the workplace. Slacks, once considered scandalous and fit only for the boudoir, gained popularity. For many years however, even into the 1960s, it was to be a subject of debate as to whether they were appropriate in the workplace or not!
LEFT: Pattern derived from 1940’s dress RIGHT: 1940’s dress
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RIGHT: 1940’s fashion sketches from sewing pattern package
BELOW: 1940’s Clothing Ad from Sears catalogue
FAR RIGHT: Posing for a movie scene
MIDDLE: 1940’s portrait
1940’s 23
Right: Fashion sketches on sewing pattern package
Below: I Love Lucy sitcom Series Ad
Far Right: Posing for a photo
Middle: Entering from the grand staircase. Women wore big flowing skirts.
1950’s H
ems fell and hems rose but the hourglass silhouette remained. In addition to the full skirt, slender pencil skirts were worn too. The emphasis on silhouette and form created a dependency on foundation garments – bullet bras, corselets, waist-cinchers and girdles pulled in, pushed out and persuaded while crinolines lifted and shaped full-circle skirts.
Cocktail dresses – short versions of ball gowns – were essential. A woman was expected to wear a hat outside of the house (except for the most formal evening occasions) and gloves at all times – short for day, long for evening. Men tended almost to universally wear suits. The practice of dressing young people like their elders was still common, with the ‘mother/daughter’ look particularly in vogue.
LEFT: Pattern derived from 1950’s dress RIGHT: 1950’s dress
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RIGHT: Fashion sketches on sewing pattern package
BELOW: I Love Lucy sitcom Series Ad
FAR RIGHT: Posing for a photo
MIDDLE: Entering from the grand staircase. Women wore big flowing skirts.
1950’s 27
Right: Fashion sketches on sewing pattern package
Below: I Love Lucy sitcom Series Ad
1960’s T
he 1960s were greatly transitional. The decade opened with a continuation of the 1950s silhouette but ten years later the look was the virtual opposite. In the U.S. in 1961 John F. Kennedy took office as President, bringing with him a beautiful, young and fashion-inspiring wife as First Lady. Jackie Kennedy’s innate sense of style and dress soon made her ‘Queen’ of American fashion. The American designed short-jacketed sheath suits (at which U.S. based designer Oleg Cassini excelled) captured her passion for French couture style.
The movement towards modernity was conscious and international. Italian designers like Pucci created psychedelic palettes of color, transforming wearers of simple silk knit gowns into walking works of art. American designers excelled in casual, uncomplicated sportswear chic. French couture (mostly under the influence of Yves Saint Laurent) explored other ideas; one of these borrowed pants and tuxedo jackets from menswear for the hip, liberated fashion-conscious woman. Some British designers even attempted to borrow the new mini skirt from women’s fashion for menswear. This met with considerably less success, if not a stony silence.
LEFT: Pattern derived from 1960’s dress RIGHT: 1960’s dress
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RIGHT: Models pose for photoshoot.
BELOW: Scene from the film Hairspray.
FAR RIGHT: Fashion Week, New York City. Getting ready for the runway. MIDDLE: Models pose for a magazine photoshoot.
1960’s 31
Right: Fashion sketches on sewing pattern package
Below: I Love Lucy sitcom Series Ad
Far Right: Posing for a photo
Middle: Entering from the grand staircase. Women wore big flowing skirts.
1970’s T
he 1970s can be called “Decade of Decadence.” Women emerged in the work place tenfold. Pantsuits, day wear, and separates with a sense of masculine style as echoed in the film ‘Annie Hall’ created a sensation with Diane Keaton wearing a fitted vest with a collared white shirt and men’s neckties. Skirts could be seen in a variety of lengths, mini midi or maxi! The maxi dress was worn throughout the decade in a multitude of styles and shapes. Rich earthy tones dominated in popular colors; warm browns, burgundy, rust, mustard, and avocado green.
The Woodstock festival of peace and music was the end of the 1960s hippie movement, with the U.S. still at war. The hippie flower child look from the late 1960s carried over into the first half of the decade in a nonrestrictive bohemian silhouette with a heavy folksy influence. Thea Porter celebrated ethnic styles in Indian style prints, free flowing breezy gauzy tent dresses and wide legged pants.
LEFT: Pattern derived from 1970’s skirt. RIGHT: 1970’s outfit.
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RIGHT: Drawings for 1970’s dress patterns
BELOW: 1970’s models posing for photoshoot..
FAR RIGHT: Couple posing for a photograph.
MIDDLE: Photo of woman in magazine
1970’s 35
Right: Fashion sketches on sewing pattern package
Below: I Love Lucy sitcom Series Ad
Far Right: Posing for a photo
Middle: Entering from the grand staircase. Women wore big flowing skirts.
1980’s O
ne word comes to mind when you think of the 1980s: BIG. Overconsumption, oversized and just plain over-the-top were cornerstone features in this decade of excess and materialism. It was a time of abundance, optimism and unabashed greed.
Glamour in the 1980s, as depicted in the popular TV shows Dallas and Dynasty, translated to bedazzled evening wear studded with sequins and beads. Hair was permed, teased and coiffed to ever larger proportions and extravagance. Makeup was bold and colorful, as was jewelry of the era which featured large statement necklaces and long, dangling earrings which grazed the shoulders. Music continued to have a strong influence on fashion, particularly with the emergence of MTV which brought music fashion to the masses. Numerous pop music stars became style icons as well.
LEFT: Pattern derived from 1980’s sweater. RIGHT: 1980’s outfit.
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RIGHT: Magazine photographs and clothing advertisements.
BELOW: Scene from Back to the Future.
FAR RIGHT: Models posing for a photoshoot. MIDDLE: Model posing for a photoshoot.
1980’s 39
Right: Fashion sketches on sewing pattern package
Below: I Love Lucy sitcom Series Ad
Far Right: Posing for a photo
Middle: Entering from the grand staircase. Women wore big flowing skirts.
1990’s W
omen and girls fashion in the 1990s is very distinct. While not quite as loud as the eighties, the nineties took that attitude and tried to be a little smarter and a little classier. Sometimes designers succeeded, sometimes they didn’t.
Some common items of clothing from the 1990s: black leggings with oversized sweater, low heel shoes, flannel shirts, denim everything, t-shirts, sweatpants, skirts, Birkenstocks, solid colors, silk shirts, turtlenecks (under cardigans or sweaters), plain white Keds and army surplus clothing to name a few.
LEFT: Pattern derived from 1990’s skirt. RIGHT: 1990’s outfit.
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RIGHT: Advertisement for clothing company.
BELOW: Mules from the Textile Collection at the Metropolitian Museum.
FAR RIGHT (Above): Hit Sitcom Friends. FAR RIGHT (Below): Scene from Clueless. MIDDLE: .
1990’s 43
2000’s T
echnology and Y2K had a huge impact on fashion in the early 2000s. The color palette was filled with shiny black tones and reflective metallics. While some Y2K trends were worn daily, many of these looks were reserved for going out. Popular outfits for women included mesh or handkerchief tops, box-pleated or leather skirts, shiny pants, and sparkly shoes. For men, Y2K looks usually involved leather jackets, a statement dress shirt, and chunky shoes. If you need inspiration, Britney Spears and *NSYNC were trendsetters for this type of style.
Casual clothing and leisurewear were the other big trends of the early 2000s. Denim became a staple for men and women, going beyond jeans to shirts, jackets, and hats. If you’re putting together a casual style for women, think crop tops, hoodies, low-rise flared jeans, cargo pants, daisy dukes, jean skirts, off the shoulder tops, ribbed sweaters, with platform sandals, Ugg boots, or sneakers. Common looks for men included, distressed denim, cargo pants, tracksuits, rugby or polo shirts, flip flops, oxford shoes, and sneakers.
LEFT: Pattern derived from 2000’s dress. RIGHT: 2000’s dress. 45
RIGHT: Britney Spears shopping in Juicy Coture Track Suit.
BELOW: Photographs from Fashion Show runway.
FAR RIGHT: Mary Kate and Ashely Olsen posing for their clothing line. MIDDLE: Shopping in Von Dutch fashion.
2000’s 47
Sources Metmuseum.org, www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/459107. 100 Dresses. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2010. “1900 To 1910.” Vintage Fashion Guild, vintagefashionguild.org/fashion-timeline/1900-to-1910/. “1910 To 1920.” Vintage Fashion Guild, vintagefashionguild.org/fashion-timeline/1910-to-1920/. “1920 To 1930.” Vintage Fashion Guild, vintagefashionguild.org/fashion-timeline/1920-to-1930/. “1930 To 1940.” Vintage Fashion Guild, vintagefashionguild.org/fashion-timeline/1930-to-1940/. “1940 To 1950.” Vintage Fashion Guild, vintagefashionguild.org/fashion-timeline/1940-to-1950/. “1950 To 1960.” Vintage Fashion Guild, vintagefashionguild.org/fashion-timeline/1950-to-1960/. “1960 To 1970.” Vintage Fashion Guild, vintagefashionguild.org/fashion-timeline/1960-to-1970/. “1970 To 1980.” Vintage Fashion Guild, vintagefashionguild.org/fashion-timeline/1970-to-1980/. “1990s Fashion: Women & Girls.” RetroWaste, www.retrowaste.com/1990s/fashion-inthe-1990s/1990s-fashion-for-women-girls/.
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Written and Currated by Erin K. Chute
- Erin - ErinK.K.Chute Chute
Threads: 100 Years of Fashion
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