Historic Nantucket, October 1987, Vol. 35 No. 2

Page 1

Historic Nantucket

The Jethro Coffin House in September, 1987

October, 1987 Published Quarterly by Nantucket Historical Association


NANTUCKET HISTORIC ASSOCIATION OFFICERS President: H.Flint Ranney Vice President: Reginald Levine Vice President:Mrs. Bracebridge Young Secretary: Mrs. Walker Groetzinger Treasurer: Donald E. Terry Honorary Chairman: Robert Congdon Honorary Vice Presidents Albert F. Egan, Jr. Walter Beinecke, Jr Albert Brock Alcon Chadwick Mrs. Bernard Grossman Mrs. R. Arthur Orleans Presidents Emeritus George W. Jones Edouard A. Stackpole Leroy H. True

COUNCIL MEMBERS Mrs. Kenneth Baird Mrs. Dwight Beman Max N. Berry Mrs. James F. Chase Mrs. Robert B. Clark John W. Eckman Mrs. H.Crowell Freeman

John Gilbert Mrs. Hamilton Heard, Jr. Mrs. John G.W. Husted Mrs. Arthur Jacobsen Charles A. Kilvert Nancy A. Martin Robert F. Mooney

Patricia A. Butler Charles Carpenter Mrs. Charles Carpenter Stuart P. Feld

Ronald W. Haase William A. Hance Mrs. Robert Hellman Andrew J. Leddy Mrs. Thomas Loring

Mrs Carl M. Mueller Mrs. Judith Powers Charles F. Sayle, Sr. Susan K. Spring Mrs. Jane D. Woodruff Robert A. Young

ADVISORY BOARD Mrs. Earle MacAusland William B. Macomber Paul Madden F. Blair Reeves

STAFF John N. Welch, Administrator Victoria Taylor Hawkins Bruce A. Courson Curator of Collections Curator of Museums & Interpretation Jacqueline Kolle Haring Edouard A. Stackpole Curator of Research Materials Historian Louise R. Hussey Leroy H. True Librarian Manager, Whaling Museum Elizabeth Tyrer Wilson B. Fantom Executive Secretary Plant Manager Peter S. MacGlashan Elizabeth Little Registrar Curator of Prehistoric Artifacts Katherine Walker Gayl Michael Asst. Curator of Collections Asst. Curator of Research Materials Thomas W. Dickson Richard P. Swain Merchandise Manager Miller Georgiann L. Phipps Director of Development Docents: Suzanne Beaupre, Alcon Chadwick, Tamar Chizewer, Marjorie Corey, Roscoe Corey, Margaret Crowell, Anita Dougan, Edward Dougan, Barbara Johnston! Jane Jones, Elsie Niles, Alfred Orpin, Frederick Richmond, Gerald Ryder, Dorothy Strong, Mary Witt *** Historic Nantucket * * * Edouard A. Stackpole, Editor Merle T. Orleans, Assistant Editor


Historic Nantucket Published Q u a r t e r l y and d e v o t e d t o t h e p r e s e r v a t i o n of N a n t u c k e t ' s antiquity, its f a m e d h e r i t a g e and its illustrious p a s t a s a whaling port.

Volume 35

October, 1987

No.2

CONTENTS Nantucket Historical Association Officers and Staff

2

Editorial: The Oldest House Suffers A Disaster

5

A Visit to Admiral Coffin's Baronetcy: The Magdalen Islands by Renny A. Stackpole

7

Early Photography on Nantucket by Edouard A. Stackpole

12

An Historian's Farewell Letter by John E.C. Abbott

16

Henry Barnard Worth - Nantucket Historian, Lawyer and Author of the Past

19

Lines on a Nantucket Sea Shell by Charles Henry Webb

20

"My Sea-Faring Family" by Nancy Grant Adams

21

Bequests / Address Changes

27

The Ballad of Captain Ichabod by Murray Paddack

28

Historic Nantucket (USPS 246-160) is published quarterly at Nantucket, Massachusetts by the Nantucket Historical Association. It is sent to Association members and extra copies may be purchased for $3.00 each. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Nantucket Historical Association, P.O. Box 1016, Nantucket, MA 02554. c. N.H.A. 1986 (USSN 0439-2248). Membership dues are: Individual $15., Family $25., Supporting $50., Contributing $100., Sponsor $250., Patron $500., Life Benefactor $2,500. Second-class postage paid at Nantucket, Massachusetts. Communications pertaining to the Publication should be addressed to the Editor, Historic Nantucket, Nantucket Historical Association, Nantucket, Massachusetts 02554.



5

THE OLDEST HOUSE SUFFERS A DISASTER ON THE FIRST DAY of October, 1987, after a busy season was clos­ ing, the Oldest House - known for years as the Jethro Coffin House on Sunset Hill, suffered severely from being struck by a thunderbolt which tumbled in the huge central chimney and did considerable damage to the eastern end of the ancient structure. It was a freak bolt, from an errant thunder squall, which passed across the island during the late afternoon, striking the old dwelling in a most vulnerable place. For­ tunately, there was no one in the building and there was no fire, but the damage from the bolt was devastating. It was not the first time this part of the hill had felt the effects of lightn­ ing, as another building had been hit some years ago. Prompt action by the Fire Department, the carpenters and volunteers summoned to the scene soon had the roof covered with tarpaulins. The damage to the old building was closely examined and it was immediately apparent that a major restoration was to be necessary. The structure of the east roof was dislodged. The oldest house will require much expert attention. Nantucket's oldest house is more than a landmark. Built in 1686 by Jethro Coffin, son of Peter and grandson of Tristram Coffin, who mar­ ried Mary Gardner, it became the home of a dozen shipmasters. Nathaniel Paddack purchased the house in 1708 and several famous ship captains were born here. In 1840 George and Mary Turner were the new owners for a quarter of a century, and, in 1881, Tristram Coffin, of Poughkeepsie, New York, purchased the old house and a Coffin Reu­ nion was celebrated in that year there. Harriet Turner Worron wrote "Trustum" and His Grandchildren celebrating the house also in that year, and the house was open to visitors for another quarter century, with Tristram Coffin maintaining it until his death. In 1923 it became owned by the Nantucket Historical Association, and it was restored in 1927 through the financial support of Winthrop Coffin, of Duxbury, Mass. A re-dedication was observed on July 30, 1928. The oldest house is much more than an historical landmark. For three hundred years it has stood on the hill, a memorial to the sturdy islanders of the past, and a reminder of the times when Nantucket was the world's leading whaling port. It is also a tribute to the men and women who have sustained and nurtured the ancient dwelling during this century. Romance and legend have played their roles in the annals of the "Horseshoe House", but the hard facts of its continuance as a struc­ ture of history have required and will require the close attention of those who have, and those who will, carefully cared for its welfare over the years. - Edouard A. Stackpole


Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin, 1759 - 1839 Painting by Sir William Beechey


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A Visit to Admiral Coffin's Baronetcy: the Magdalen Islands by Renny A. Stackpole EN 1829 THE BRIG CLIO, under the command of Lieutenant Alexander B. Pinkham, USN, departed from Nantucket on a summer sail-training voyage to Quebec. The vessel had been purchased by Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin, as part of the course of instruction at the Coffin School for twen­ ty Nantucket boys who would venture to both northern and southern climes in order to gain valuable experience in navigation and the natural sciences. Thus, America's first private sail-training venture was financed by a retired British Admiral and commanded by an American navy man. The brig Clio - although her log is not extant - more likely sailed to the Canadian baronetcy granted to Isaac Coffin by the English king in 1804. In true sailor tradition Admiral Coffin directed that the trainees aboard the Clio be equipped with: "...blue jackets and trousers of good cloth, blue knit stockings (of worsted in winter and cotton in summer). On the right arm... a red an­ chor... great coats...lined with baize made of No. 6 canvas and painted. During the summer of 1987, while returning from a cruise to New­ foundland, it was my good fortune to visit the islands that the Admiral loved so dearly. Herein lies a firsthand discription of his former tenancy: The Magdalen Islands are anchored out in the Gulf of Saint Lawrence, north by 60 miles from Eastern Point on Prince Edward Island and west from Cape Brenton by 55 miles. In late July, aboard the 50 foot sailing cutter Brendan's Isle, we set a course from Isle aux Mort (New­ foundland ) to Grindstone Island, which was 130 nautical miles to wind­ ward. After tacking clear of the shipping lanes and St. Paul Island, we had a lively overnight sail to the Magdalens. Jacques Cartier first explored these islands in 1534. He named many of the islands such as lie Brion, which is named after the Admiral of France at the time. He also observed the presence of the Basque, who had preceded him by many years. The islands are now called Madeleine in French in memory of Madeleine Fontaine, wife of Francois Doublet, the first seigneur of the islands. Today about 14,000 year-round residents claim ancestry from the early Basque whalers and French fishermen of Britanny. Indeed, French is the official language there. 1 Will

Gardner, T h e C o f f i n S a g a , Riverside Press, Cambridge, 1929, 213-14


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HISTORIC NANTUCKET

We had intended to sail to the town of Havre Aubert on Amherst Island, which would bring us by the grand, gayly colored seaeliffs of Isle de Grand Entree. However, the Grindstone Coast Guard radio operator was kind enough to advise us about a good harbor of refuge there and a series of line squalls approaching from the west. After a twenty-six hour sail, we arrived at Cap aux Meules (Grindstone), narrowly missing the onslaught of the brisk southwesterly breeze. The islands offer a spectacular combination of craggy capes, both carved by wind and sea, and 190 miles of beaches along the 38 mile long island chain. From southwest to northeast the islands are called: Amherst, Grindstone, Alright, Wolf, Coffin, and Grosse. The ochre cliffs of Cap aux Meules stand almost half way along the island group, about 350 feet above the sea. In 1829 our young students off the Clio might have seen this vista to the east southeast and looked toward Isle d'Entree. There Cap Diable rises 559 feet above the ocean with cliffs as multicolored as Gay Head on Martha's Vineyard. Fishermen use these cliffs as a major target for visual bearings. Until the Dominion of Canada (Quebec) bought out Admiral Coffin's heirs, the rents from this multi-island tenancy brought 18,000 pounds sterling to the family annually. The major income came from the lucrative mackerel and cod fishery. During the winter, islanders hunted seals and walrus. Havre aux Maisons and Coffin Island to the northeast of Grindstone were in the early nineteenth century the seat of the seal and walrus fishery. In the winter of 1875 over twenty thousand seals were taken, valued then at sixty thousand dollars to the hunters and yielded several thousand barrels of oil, as well as the skins. Farley Mowat in his powerful book A Sea of Slaughter describes the loss of the walrus herds to the wholesale butchery of those days. This worthwhile book is the most powerful appeal to the preservation of ocean fish and mammals in re­ cent years. Today, tourism may rapidly change the face of these islands. A large 300 passenger car ferry Lucy Maud Montgomery makes a daily trip from Prince Edward Island. The vessel takes five hours to cover the 70 miles from Souris. The folks from P.E.I and Quebec have discovered the deserted beaches and fine campgrounds, as well as the sense of peace that exists here. Many families sail to the islands in small sailing yachts and enjoy a two week holiday in the Magdalens. For two days, as a low pressure area deepened over Labrador, the wind continued to blow hard which restricted beach exploring, yet we climbed the hills and visited the local fishing craft, which were of great interest to the crew of our yacht. The major fishing season begins in January.


Isle de Grande Entree. View from the South.

The Village of Cap aux Meules on Grindstone Island. Photos by author


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HISTORIC NANTUCKET

Visiting Coffin Island was the highlight of the Magdalen cruise. There along the purple hills, gleaming in the late afternoon sun, we enjoyed the fulmers, puffins, and shearwaters, with the latter darting and wheel­ ing above the sea. Here one is reminded of the Miacomet shore on Nan­ tucket or down by Madaquecham, where forty years ago and earlier there was a sense of communion between the sea and moor. Looking to the north from the fishing area of Old Harry we saw the outlines of lie Brion, Anthony's Nose, Seal Rock and Cape Noddy. These bold, craggy islands are a contrast to the sand dunes and blinding-white beaches of summer; in winter, the incessant gales claw at every nook and cranny of the simple low wood-frame houses and reshape the sand dunes. A remnant of a lifesaving boat shed looked much like those once used in Madaket. The few trees that we observed were low, twisted and stunted by the wind. In the lee of tall hills cattle graze in fields that border small, neat truck gardens of turnips, squash and potatoes. Wood is so scarce here that the Madelinots have devised a barn like structure - called baraques - four strong posts that form a square, which in turn support a square roof that is suspended from a block and falls. As hay production increases, the roof is raised to accommodate more. Later, as the material is used the roof is again lowered. The fishermen are organized in cooperatives, and the commodious wharves are situated adjacent to the fish packing plant where their wives, daughters, and other relatives have the day's catch frozen or canned within minutes of the vessel's arrival. The plant is quite hand­ some and the Quebec firm ships the fish by both air and freighter to the mainland. These islands are a perfect retreat for a place "away" where birdwatching is unparalleled; and above all one finds unfettered the tran­ quility of our Nantucket as it must have appeared to the first summer folk who arrived in the nineteenth century. Hopefully, they will remain so lovely and unspoiled for years to come. On 29 July, we sailed off to the Canso Strait to finish our planned cir­ cumnavigation of Cape Breton. Throughout that clear, spectral night we all sat speechless, as the aurora borealis provided a light show rarely seen in a lifetime. From zenith clear to the horizon, the northern lights display continued from 10:00 P.M. until 5:00 A.M.. It was like being in a world of gleaming searchlights, everchanging in intensity; interspers­ ed with ice crystals spinning and turning in the sky. A perfect ending to our lovely lies de Madeleine.


'Why Worry?" by Henry S. Wyer


12

Early Photography on Nantucket by

Edouard A. Stackpole THE STORY OF NANTUCKET has been presented by writers, ar­ tists, and photographers, all of whom have found ways of interpreting the island's varied chronicle and presenting it to the public. Perhaps the least known of these individuals who have played important roles in telling this story are the photographers, whose work has done so much in recapturing the past through the magic of the camera lens. The scenes which were to them the present have become the past, and their work has preserved the visible evidences of what Nantucket looked like a cen­ tury ago. When Louis Daguerre discovered the mysterious art of recording on metal people and places in 1839, it was not long before the creation of daguerreotype reached America. The first to appear in Nantucket was a certain "Mr. Seager, an artist from England", who advertised in 1840 that he would be "at Mrs. Cary's...where he would create profile likenesses in beautiful style of bronze by a machine of unequalled ac­ curacy in 10 minutes at $1.00 each." His advertisement disappeared and he apparently left the island. In 1844 the first practical practitioner of daguerreotypes in T h e i n advertised that he would be at Mrs. Barney's for the business of creating "perfect facsimiles of our physiognomies." In March, 1848, an advertisement announced that "E. Sutton, Daguerreotyping, will open a studio on the corner of Main and Centre Streets." However, the first photograph was advertised in 1845 and was announced by this gentleman or a "Mr. Humphreys", who also advertised in the newspaper at this time. This was a view of upper Main Street Square, showing the Pacific Bank and the Methodist Church. It is the earliest known photograph of an island scene. quirer

In 1854 the first permanent resident who engaged himself in the business of "taking Daguerreotype Likenesses", WilliamSummerhayes, opened a Furniture Store at 5 Centre Street, where he fitted up a studio on the second floor. He announced that he had on hand "a good assort­ ment of elegant cases of various patterns, and at low prices." Two years later an advertisement noted that Mr. Summerhayes had the "exclusive rights" of making pictures called A m b r o t y p e s . The word "Photography" began to appear in 1859 when Kelly & Fish began working here, and in September, 1860, a photograph in the Nan­ tucket Mirror stated:


EARLY PHOTOGRAPHY ON NANTUCKET

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"Photographs: These colored photographs elaborated by Messrs. Kelly & Fish, attract much attention and are greatly admired. How far superior they are to the old caricatures produced by the strolling portrait painters, are these exquisite works of modern art!" E.T. Kelly had been to the Island previously, returning in May, 1860, to re-open his studio, and soon after became associated with George Fish, the artist. One of the great trio of 19th century photographers-Josiah Freeman•appears on the scene on 1864, when he came from New Bedford to open a studio with David Coffin, of Nantucket. As a young man he soon demonstrated his ability, and prospered despite the depression in the Island's economic fortunes. In 1867 the partnership was dissolved and Freeman carried on the business alone. With the advent of the Stereoptican camera, Freeman began his great contribution to the visual history of Nantucket. His stereoscopic "cards," with their three-dimensional views of Nantucket streets, lanes, houses and people, became very popular. Along with this activity he was mak­ ing many glass negatives of individual islanders, as well as family groups. For over 28 years Josiah Freeman was an active photographer, and it was not until June, 1892, that he decided to retire, selling his business to Edwin B. Robinson. The second of the century's "big three" was Henry S. Wyer, born in Nantucket on January 21,1847, son of Charles S. Wyer, mariner, and Mary J. Coleman. His early interest in photography was encouraged by William Summerhayes, but he apparently decided to work on the mainland, as in 1880 he had a studio in Yonkers, New York. But his in­ terest in Nantucket, which was to guide his career, never wavered and in 1881 he began his work of photographing the streets, houses, and waterfront of his island home. This collection has since become an in­ valuable study of Nantucket-historically, architecturally and artistical­ ly. Henry S. Wyer was an artist and a writer, as well as photographer, as his work so often demonstrated. As one of the founders of the Nan­ tucket Historical Association in 1894, he worked diligently for the ad­ vancement of our cultural heritage. From 1886, when he returned to the island to reside here the rest of his life, until his death in 1920 at the age of 73, he was one of the important personalities in the life of the town. His little shop on Federal Street-Wyer's Art Store-as well as his shop in 'Sconset brought him in association with artists, musicians and writers, and his writings continued along with his excellent photography.



EARLY PHOTOGRAPHY ON NANTUCKET

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The third of the 19th century trio of outstanding photographers was Harry Piatt, a native of Georgia, who came to Nantucket in the late 1880's. He opened a shop on Centre Street, and his photographs rivalled Wyer's in their excellent composition. He took many scenes about the town and along the wharves, and also made portraits of individuals as "tin-types." Much of his work was found in the attic of his Orange Street home upon the death of his daughter, Miss Marie Piatt, and is now in the collection of an island resident. At the turn of the new century Maurice Boyer began his work as a prominent Nantucket photographer, having obtained a studio on the se­ cond floor of a store on Main Street. He specialized in people and fami­ ly views, as well as graduation and group photographs. Some of his por­ traits show his skillful use of background settings. Later he removed to a studio on the corner of Federal Street and Independence Lane. Boyer was the first to introduce x-ray photography at the Nantucket Cottage Hospital, and was always ready to respond to emergency calls. For over thirty yearn he was active in business and many a Nantucket family has a "Portrait by Boyer" in its albums. Before World War I a young man from New York, H. Marshall Gar­ diner, came to Nantucket and soon married an island girl. He opened a shop on Federal Street, later removed his business to Main Street, where for two more decades "Gardiner's " was a popular gift store. As a photographer he specialized in color studies of Nantucket subjects, and, like Henry Wyer, had a variety of post cards which found a ready sale. His studio was on the second floor of his building on Main Street, now known as the Nantucket Looms. Any study of island photographers who have contributed to the visual history of Nantucket life must include Harry B. Turner, editor of T h e Inquirer and Mirror for the first four decades of the 20th century. His camera captured many incidents which otherwise might not have been recorded by the written word. Not only was he an able editor, and in­ imitable conveyor of island personalities, but his photography reveal­ ed his awareness of the importance of the historical obtaining the scene or person on film. It is to this group of individuals that we owe so much for making the past become more significantly a part of Nantucket's future. - Edouard A. Stackpole


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An Historian's Farewell Letter THE REVEREND JOHN S.C. Abbott, for a number of years the minister of the Old North Church, during the years of 1841 through 1844, and in­ cluded in his tenure made many friends among the Nantucketers. In the years following, he wrote several books on history which attracted much attention, among which were "The Life of Napoleon", "The French Revolution", and the "History of the Civil War". Toward the close of his life, his mind turned to his days on Nantucket, and he wrote to several old friends. Among his letters was one written in February, 1877, which he penned to two of his old Nantucket friends - Captain David N. Edwards and his wife, which was preserved by Isaac Folger, then editor of the Island Review, a newspaper published on Nantucket for several years in the 1870's. It was such a good letter that it deserves to be reprinted, and is self explanatory. It reads as follows: MR. AND MRS. D.N. EDWARDS My very dear Friends:

Your kind letter found me on my dying bed. Though very languid, and as my physicians tell me, liable at any time to pass away, I do not ordinarily suffer much pain, and I enjoy "perfect peace". With a little tablet in my hand, and pillow­ ed upon my couch, I pencil in the early dawn these lines. The word "peace" is not strong enough to express my feelings in view of my departure; it is rather exceeding joy. often rising to rapture. You remember that when Elijah was translated, the prophet Elisha stood upon an eminence, watching the event. Emotions of wonder, sublimity, and delight, were excited, as he beheld a celestial chariot, with an escort of the horsemen of Israel, descending through the skys, to bear him to his home beyond the stars. It was probably the most brilliant pageant which mortal eyes ever beheld. The poet Parnell, in describ­ ing the scene, writes: "Thus stood Elisha, when to mount on high, The Master took the chariot of the sky. The fiery pomp, ascending, left his view;The prophet gazed, and wished to follow, too." I think that God always sends "Israel's chariot and horsemen," to convey those redeemed by the blood of Jesus to their home. And when I think that the chariot may come for me before you receive this letter; and that to-mon-ow, the Sab­ bath, I may spend with angel companionship, amidst the songs andTruitage, and blooms of the celestial Eden, I do indeed experience supernatural rapture, above that which eye hath seen, or ear heard, or the heart of man conceived.


AN HISTORIAN'S FAREWELL

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The two happiest years of my life, I think, were spent on the island of dear, dear Nantucket. Every scene which occurred there is now vividly before my mind.

The crowded church, the throng at the Wednesday evening lecture, the exquisite music of Mr. Frederick Cobb's well trained choir, the social gatherings, the wonderful harmony of church and parish, the roar of the surf upon the south shore, the pic-nic excursions, (which I think we used to call squantums), the visits to picturesque Siasconset: - all these are vividly present to my mind on this happy dying bed. Nantucket was then in the meridian day of its prosperity; and now there is no other spot upon this globe which I should take so much pleasure in revisiting. There are but few left to remember me. On the 18th of last September, I entered on my seventy-second year. Nearly thirty-five years have passed since we left the Island; and still the features of the loved ones there are indelibly im­ pressed upon my mind's eye. Many of them I shall soon see in heaven; others I shall ere long greet with an angel's love, as they enter the golden gates. Give my love, my heartful love, to the brothers and sisters of the church. Say I find by experience that "Jesus can make a dying bed Feel soft as downy pillows are." The religion He has brought to earth, with its doctrines of redemption by aton­ ing blood, and the Holy Spirit's aid to bring us off as conquerors in life's battle, is all that I want in these dying hours, and is exactly what my soul craves. And please say to them that the last message from the hps of their dying pastor is the declaration of our Lord and Saviour, Jesus Christ: "He that endureth to the end shall be saved." And now, dear friends, farewell. I shah never see you again, until we meet in the better land. Till then, and ever after, I am Lovingly Yours, JOHN S.C. ABBOTT.


Henry Barnard Worth, Historian


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Henry Barnard Worth Nantucket Historian Lawyer and Author of the Past IN THE EARLY YEARS of the Nantucket Historical Association, Henry Barnard Worth proved of inestimable value in his several contributionsin the field of Nantucket history. His study of "Nantucket Lands and Land Owners" marked a monumental beginning to the future study of island lands and homes. He gave us a study of "Nantucket Wills", and other court documents, which have proved invaluable. A lawyer who practiced mostly in New Bedford, he carried on an ex­ tensive business but he was never too busy to delve into Nantucket lore. He drew up a quantity of notes on house locations, Quaker records, Pro­ prietors' Meetings, old wills and other legal documents. His study of old estates became classics. He drew up abstracts of Deeds recorded in the Registry of Deeds, and also dealt with the State House Archives on Nan­ tucket history. Alexander Starbuck, then President of the Nantucket Historical Association, once wrote of him; "To our Historical Association Mr. Worth gave much of his time and effort. No miner for gold felt keener delight in upturning a sizable nugget than he felt in upturning an im­ portant or interesting historical fact. Probably no man living is so thoroughly conversant with the locations and divisions of old Nantucket estates as he." In his life-time, Mr. Worth was made an Honorary Life Councillor and a Vice President of the Association, and held these offices continuously until his death. It has been seventy-five years since his passing, but his work continues to keep his memory alive. A meticulous researcher, he will continue to be admired and praised.


Lines On a Nantucket Sea Shell I send thee a shell from the ocean beach; But listen thou well, for it hath speech. Hold to thine ear And pain thou'lt hear Tales of ships That were lost in the rips Or that sunk in the shoals Where the bell-bouy tolls, And ever and ever its iron tongue rolls In a ceaseless lament for the poor lost soul. And a song of the sea Has my shell for thee; The melody in it Was hummed at Wauwinet And caught at Coatue By the gull that flew Outside the ship with its perishing crew. But the white wings wave Where none may safe. And there's never a stone to mark a grave. See, its sad heart bleeds For the sailor's needs; But it bleeds again For more mortal pain, More sorrow and woe Than is theirs who go With shuddering eyes and whitening lips Down in the sea on their shattered ships. Thou fearest the sea? Ah, the tyrant is he A tyrant as cruel as tyrant may be; But though winds fierce blow, And rocks lie low, And the coast be lee, This I say to thee; Of Christian souls more have been wrecked shore Than ever were lost at sea! Charles Henry Webb in 1883


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"My Sea-Faring Family" By

Nancy Grant Adams In this issue of Historic Nantucket we continue the story of Mrs. Nan­ cy Adams' "Sea-Faring Family", a remarkable story of a remarkable family.

Chapter 4 Boatsteerer on the Ship MOUNT VERNON "I must go down to the sea again, to the lonely sea and sky, And all I ask is a tall ship and a star to steer her by, And the wheel's kick and the wind's song and the white sails a-shaking And a grey mist on the sun's face and a gray dawn breaking." From "Sea Fever" by John Masefield

When September came of the same year 1832, Charles was again head­ ed for the sea. This time he had shipped as boatsteerer on the ship MOUNT VERNON, with Capt. Edwin Coffin as Master. The MOUNT VERNON, a 384-ton ship built in Rochester, Mass., by Josiah Holmes, was just off the stocks. Capt. Coffin was to be her first Master for the maiden voyage from Sept. 15th, 1832, to1835. Succeeding voyages were 1835-39 and 1839-44 with Capt. Lewis Imbert. Capt. Henry Coleman was the next Master for 1844 - 1848. On this voyage she lost her spars and boats in a gale and returned October 6th, 1844, for repairs, and then sailed again. In the year 1848 she was sold to a Mattapoisett, Mass., company who fitted her out for the gold seekers and she sailed from Rochester, Mass., for a voyage around the Horn to California, the new land of promise. The MOUNT VERNON was in San Francisco the 12th day of January in 1850 and a boat's crew went from the ship to board the FLORIDA, of Fairhaven, Mass., which was anchored in the harbor, for letters which she might have for them. The FLORIDA was fitted out by the Acushnet Building & Mining Co. to go to California. Her Master was James S. Robinson and one member of the company was Benjamin Tripp Briggs, the maternal grandfather of the writer.


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HISTORIC NANTUCKET

Capt. Coffin had prepared the ship for rounding the Horn, the anchors had been taken on deck and lashed down, boats taken off the cranes and secured. They sight Staten Land and its stormy weather. The decks are slippery and wet. Ropes are stretched about to hold on to. Two men are at the wheel, with a sharp look-out for danger ahead. Cape Horn looms up, a great black rock, bleak and desolate, about 1870 feet high; it is said by some, the great southern sentinel of the con­ tinent of South America. The Cape has to be battled by every whaler who goes to theSouth Pacific. Once they round it then things are brighter and the ship is more steady. There is a story of one ship that was rolling badly in a heavy gale and a crew man saw the galley, containing the cook, washed overboard but the return wave brought it back on again to the deck. The cook jumped out and the galley went over again, this time on the other side and never returned. One often hears the saying, "holy stone the deck and scour the cable". This is what is done about every day on a ship. The deck is washed with sea water and a broom. To holy stone the deck, they scatter the deck with sand and scrub with a flat stone on the end of a stick like a broom handle. The small stones are called "prayer books" and the large ones the "bible". For the sailor who wants a bath, he just lowers a bucket over the side into the sea and fills it, and there he has a proper wash bowl. We spoke of dead reckoning in another chapter. This is found when there has been no sun for several days, and the Capt. has to watch the speed, taking into account the influence of current and tides and the course of the ship and calculate the position on the chart by guess or dead reckoning. When a man at the mast-head sights a whale and calls down to the deck he has to know where to tell the officer to look. The horizon circle is supposed to be divided into 32 points, like the compass, but the car­ dinal points of the horizon circle are the fore and aft and the beam of the ship, with eight points to each quarter, as in the compass. 4 points off the bow or stern is half way between the bow or stern and the beam. 2 points would be half of the 4 points. When a whale is reported 4 pts. off the larboard bow, we would look half way between the bow and the larboard beam. A whaler flies its own house or company flag at the main truck. Signals are shown at the spanker gaff peak halyards. There is a particular set of signals which all sailors learn, to be used when the boats are down and the ship wishes to signal them about whales and their location or to call the boats back to the ship.


MY SEA-FARING FAMILY

23

The MOUNT VERNON cruised practically all the time in the Pacific and, after 34 months had passed, she came home with 3071 bbls. of sperm oil. They took no right whales or bone. In those days bone was not worth bothering with. She came in to port on July 25th, 1835. Charles left the ship and went directly home where he was welcomed by his parents. He had just passed his twenty-first birthday in June and felt pretty grand. He stayed ashore for about three months and really did get acquainted with some nice young folks. One girl particularly he seemed to like very much and he paid her a great deal of attention. She seemed suited to his taste and a rapid courtship took place. He became engaged to her before he shipped out again. Tradition has it that no whaleman was expected to ask the girl of his choice for her hand until he had "killed a whale", and if she were of the better class of the island maidens, the wedding day was not fixed until he had "a ship" or won "a command". "She married him before he had a ship" was a reproach which no high­ born damsel of spirit would venture to endure. Charles had killed his whale but he rated as 2nd Mate only. At the pre­ sent time, however, his "intended" was willing to marry him upon his return from the next voyage. This young lady resided in one half of a large, double house, and in the other half lived a family who had a pert little dark-eyed daughter named Nancy. She was the youngest of six children whose parents were Benjamin and Eliza Ann Wyer. When Nancy was born she was given the name Mary Abbie but the child's aunt Nancy Jay paid a visit "from off island" soon after the child was born. She exclaimed loudly that she did not like the name given the child. "Now, Eliza," she said, "if you had named her Nancy for me, I would give her a nice present." Eliza and Benjamin talked it over and decided to change the name of the child to Nancy Jay Wyer. All her life Nancy mourned the fact that she lost the pretty name of Mary Abbie for a present of two yards of lute string ribbon. Charles called one day to see his girl and to take her for a buggy ride. While she was donning her bonnet, who should appear but little Nancy! Charles was greatly taken with her and invited her to ride with them. She was then only twelve years old and sat in the buggy between Charles and the girl. The time came for Charles to go to sea again and this time he was to ship as 2nd Mate on the same ship, the MOUNT VERNON, with Capt. Lewis Imbert as Master.


24

Chapter 5 Second Mate on the MOUNT VERNON THE MT. VERNON left Nantucket on the 5th of October, 1835, with Capt. Lewis Imbert as Master and Charles Grant 2nd Mate. A list of the owners and crew members for this voyage may be found in the appendix. There is no log available for this voyage, so we shall have to fill in this chapter with a description of the ship. On the deck of the ship there are two houses aft, one each on the star­ board and port sides with a roof over both, extending over the deck also. The wheel is between these two houses and the skylight was between the two, used for lighting the cabin below. Supplies were stored in one of the houses and the galley was located in the other. On the port side there was located the companionway down to the officer's quarters below. Here the salon or dining-room was located, down the center of the ship. Along the sides were officers' staterooms and the pantry. The Cap­ tain's quarters are between the dining-room, and the stern. The cabin generally has a built-in sofa and comfortable chairs, closets and cupboards. This had necessarily to be the reception room, sitting room and of­ fice. Nobody is allowed to enter without permission of the Captain. His sleeping quarters are forward of this cabin on the starboard side, all very spick and span. In this room is a swinging bed. If the Captain's wife was along with him, there would be a little more luxurious cabin. There was a stove and carpets for the cold weather, a wash-stand, drawers and cupboards. Next forward is the steerage where are the quarters of the harpooners, carpenter, cooper, blacksmith and cook. One entered through the booby hatch on deck. Forward from this is the blubber room, under the try works and under this is the hold. The windlass is located at the bow of the ship, on deck, and is used for heaving up the anchor. Just aft of this is the hatchway of the "fo'castle", the crew's quarters. The Captain and officers all eat in the cabin, while the crew eat on deck or in their quarters. We are told that at noon the Steward, with head sticking out from the cabin scuttle, would announce dinner. The Captain announced it to the 1st Officer, "Dinner, Mr.—", take a look around and depart. The 1st Of­ ficer would say to the 2nd Officer, "Dinner, Mr. —take a look around and depart. The same would be repeated to the 3rd Officer, if there was one. All departed, but not at the same time.


MY SEA-FARING FAMILY

25

In the cabin there is a medicine chest under the care of the Captain, who must at all times act as doctor and bone-setter. In this chest a motley array of bottles contained cures for most diseases. The bottles are numbered and a book of instructions was handy to tell what to give for certain symptoms. The favorite story of the Grant family was: "A sailor was taken sick with pains in his stomach. The Capt. went to the chest and found the symptoms called for the medicine numbered thirteen. He took out the bottle labeled 13 and found it was empty. He scratched his head a moment and then deftly removed bottles number 7 and 6, saying, 'Hell, 7 and 6 are 13. This will do. ' He gave the dose to the sailor and we never heard whether he lived or died." On the deck is the try-works, which is near the mast of the ship, more forward than aft, and beneath the furnaces is built a space as large as the whole area of the try-works, about a foot deep, which, when the fires are lighted, is filled with water to prevent the deck from burning. Immediately aft of the try-works is where the carpenter has his work bench and where there is space enough to mend boats and to make new spars, etc. Under the bench is where the hens are usually kept. Cows, goats and pigs roam the deck forward. All decks are spic and span, in spite of this. The cooper and the blacksmith carry on the necessary operations of their trades, in this space, reserved for the carpenter. The "Round House" could be a tar bucket and the ocean around them. Sometimes the carpenter would build, not far from the Fo'castle, a copy of the two and a half-holer, such as they have at home, but lacking the bushes to hide it. The whale boats are made of white cedar and are about 28 feet long, round bottom, six feet across midship and about 37 inches at bow and stern. They ride the waves lightly. The bow oar thwart has the three inch hole for the mast and is double kneed. Through the cuddy board is a silk hat-shaped logger head for managing the running lines. The stem of the boat is deeply grooved on the top, the bottom of the grooves being bushed with a block of lead or bronze roller for the line to pass over. The lines are made of the best hemp, slightly tarred, but not wholly impregnated. It is very pliable and about two thirds of an inch thick. This line will bear a great strain. There is about two hundred fathom to a tub. It must not tangle when running out, so the utmost precaution is taken in stowing the line in tubs. It is coiled neatly and spirally away in the tub, toward the stern of the boat. These tubs are nearly three feet in diameter with canvas covers. Both ends of the lines are exposed in readiness to tie in another line or so. The upper end of the line is taken aft and passed around the log­ ger head and then carried forward.


26

HISTORIC NANTUCKET

The boats are manned with six men including the officer in charge. Each boat carries about the same equipment which consists of oars, pad­ dles, buckets for bailing, compass and kegs containing bread, hardtack, water and sometimes tobacco. Extra whaleline must necessarily be carried in tubs. When a boat gets over-turned, as they often do, the contents are very often entirely lost. However, if another boat immediately comes to the rescue, the contents may often be picked up. On a calm day, after the ship has been out for a short time, the Cap­ tain will order the boats lowered to give the "greenies" a chance to learn the routine of "going on" to a whale, and to learn the strict orders of the officer in charge. Charles carried on the duties of 2nd Mate very satisfactorily and earn­ ed the compliments of Capt. Imbert. He was offered the site of 1st Mate if he cared to take another voyage. The MT. VERNON, after a very successful voyage, arrived in New Bedford on June 17, 1839, with 2700 bbls. of sperm oil consigned to William Folger and others. On the 27th of July she arrived from the bar at Nantucket. Her letters which were returned were at the store of Obed Barney. Charles was greeted with bitter disappointment when he arrived home. His best girl, to whom he had been engaged when he departed, became too lonely to wait for him and married another suitor and was now a matron. He was very much down-hearted and went around in a rather sad way. His mother and father tried to console him by saying "There are plenty more fish in the sea, Charles", but he still couldn't cheer up. One day he was walking down the street and who should he meet but little dark-eyed Nancy Wyer. She was now a young lady of sixteen years and as pert as ever. Charles at once turned his attention to her and developed a real feeling of love for her, although he was her senior by several years, yet she was mature in thought and action and a rapid courtship ensued. It was necessarily a brief courtship as he was soon to go to sea again so he begged her to marry him before he sailed. He did not dare to chance another disappointment. Nancy's parents were willing enough to have such a fine young man, with such a bright future ahead, to be their daughter's husband. Preparations were at once started for the wedding. A house had been found for them to start house-keeping. This was found in Pine Street, on the corner of Farmer, a small house in which they could live until another larger one could be found later.


MY SEA-FARING FAMILY

27

It was on the 28th day of August, 1839, that Charles and Nancy were married. We are told that Charles wore salmon colored trousers and a long blue coat with brass buttons and shoes with silver buckles. Nan­ cy wore a salmon color silk dress and a white shawl and bonnet. They were married by Squire Ben Gardner who was clerk of courts at that time. He was a genial man who later retired to his house on Cliff Road, where he had a garden, and was known as a courtly gentleman and, in his capacity as magistrate, officiated at marriages where gentlemen of the cloth were not desired. The bridal couple were greeted by their friends and relatives and had a happy week or two in their new home. They decided then they would have time to take a brief wedding trip and it was thought that a trip "off island" to Cape Cod, to visit Nancy's aunt, would be just the thing. It was decided that Nancy's father, Benjamin Wyer, would go along with them to visit his brother. They had to travel by boat and stage-coach and took two nights to reach their destination at Provincetown on the Cape. Upon their arrival at Aunt Nancy's , they were welcomed very cordially and when Nancy was taken upstairs to their room, her aunt said, "do tell, you came all the way from Scrap Island? Is your husband the one that goes 'Fattin'?" Nancy told her what a fine husband she had and how sad she was that he was to go off again, to be gone four years or more. At the end of a ten day visit, the young couple returned to Nantucket, and the busy preparations began for Charles to go to sea again. When the time came, he bade farewell to his bride and his family and set sail. Nancy was very lonely and settled down to a long wait for Charles to return, a "Cape Horn widow" indeed. (To be continued) Bequests or gifts to the Nantucket Historical Association are tax deductible. They are greatly needed and appreciated.

PLEASE — Send us your change of address if you are planning to move. You will receive your copy sooner and we are charg­ ed extra for all copies returned because of an incorrect address.


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3838 Woodley Rd. N.W. Washington, D.C. 20016 Mr. Edouard A. Stackpole Editor, HISTORIC NANTUCKET Nantucket Historical Association Nantucket, Massachusetts 02554 Dear Mr. Stackpole, The first time I read the story of Ichabod and Crook-Jaw, the great whale, was in a book by Jeremiah Digges entitled "Cape Cod Pilot", published in 1937. In 1961 that tale was reproduced in "The Life Treasury of American Folklore", published by Time, Inc. It recently occurred to me to tell the tale in ballad form. I enclose it herewith for your consideration for publication in "Historic Nantucket". With thanks and kindest regards Murray Paddack

THE BALLAD OF CAPTAIN ICHABOD by Murray Paddack It was to old Nantucket That Ichabod Paddock came. For the Islanders wanted to learn the skills Of a whaler of such fame. His eye was keen and roving, His arms with muscles hewn A master of the difficult art Of hurling the harpoon. Many a mighty monster Succumbed to the Captain's toil In supplying the eager colonies With the precious lantern oil And spermacetti for candles Ichabod, bringer of light, The hero of the rolling main Of the perilous deep-sea fight!


THE BALLAD OF CAPTAIN ICHABOD

But finally Captain Ichabod Came up against his match A gigantic crook-jawed "sparm" whale He simply could not catch, A behemoth of a creature, Big as a whale ship or bigger He would make two hundred barrels of oil If he would make a jigger. A score of times did Ichabod, On spotting the spouting Crook-Jaw. Shout "Lower away - all speed out there," And, poised at the small-boat's prow, Cast the harpoon with every ounce Of strength at his command But the iron would slither off the beast Or disintegrate like sand. At last the Captain, furious At this frustrating history, Resolved, in highly colorful terms, He'd clear up this blasted mystery. The next time out, there was Crook-jar Asleep in Handkerchief Shoal! In an instant Ichabod jerked off his longies, Dove away and churned toward his goal. And just as he reached it, the jaws Gaped wide in a mammoth yawn, A space like an open warehouse door The Captain plunged in and was gone. Down a dark and narrow passage He could see a glimmering light. He struggled aft - and came upon An unbelievable sight. In a snug and lamp-lit cabin, Playing cards at a little table, Were a willowy golden-haired verdant girl And the Devil, all scarlet and sable! And just as the round-eyed Ichabod Peered timorously in, the Old Nick Slammed down his cards - "Devil take 'em" - and vanished With a sulphurous flash and a click.

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30

HISTORIC NANTUCKET

Less fearful now, Captain Ichabod Advanced toward the undersea siren: "The other one, ma'am, he seemed mighty soreCould I ask what the stakes might have been?" She glanced at him with her green eyes Aslant and sparkling like dew As she fingered her pink shell necklaces"The stakes, sir? They were you!" "And furthermore, Captain Ichabod, Since you saw the end of the fun, I believe you can testify to the fact That I am the player who won!" In the meantime, back at the whale ship, Peering all night from the rails, The crew thought their captain was lost forever And split the air with their wails. But suddenly, just at sunrise, The sailors leaped and roared When they spied, at last, a weary swimmer And hauled Ichabod aboard! Well, that was the first night only That the Captain called on and tarried With his friend, Crook-Jaw and - more to the point With the bewitching tenant he carried. This caper went on and on. The crew was growing frantic Was the Captain losing his mind and his name As Whaler of the Atlantic? When the ship returned to home port For victuals and supplies, The sailors made no bones about Putting the home folks wise. Word reached the Captain's wife, A young no-nonsense person. She made up her mind to halt this affair Rather than let it worsen. When Ichabod next returned, Looking somewhat furtive and spent, She gave him a shining new harpoon To his embarrassment -


THE BALLAD OF CAPTAIN ICHABOD

And insisted that her father Go along on the following cruise. The idea did not appeal to the Captain But he could not well refuse. At sea a few days later Crook-Jaw swam toward the ship To greet his now good friend, the Captain, And await his usual dip. Smiling and waving, Ichabod Stood hesitant at the rail With his father-in-law who gaped and exclaimed At the mountainous size of the whale. "ICHABOD," he bellowed, "MAKE HASTE!" "LOWER AWAY WITH THAT IRON-AND HEAVE The Captain, reluctant, but feeling sure That Crook-Jaw wouldn't grieve But would sense some special reason And Ichabod, knowing, too, That the whaling iron would splinter like glass Did what he was urged to do. But this time the harpoon anchored In the great cetacean's side! It thrashed and flailed and stood on end And shortly after, died. When they carved it up for blubber, As the Captain's story tells, He only found, where the cabin had been, A necklace of pink sea shells. And how explain the outcome Of Ichabod's final pitch? Did his spouse confess that the new whaling iron Was SILVER for slaying a witch? END



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