Historic Nantucket
Ocean House, Broad Street, in 1883 - Now Jared Coffin House
October 1981 Published Quarterly by Nantucket Historical Association Nantucket, Massachusetts
Nantucket Historical Association Officers COUNCIL 1981 - 1982 Walter Beinecke, Jr., Chairman Mrs. Bernard D. Grossman, Vice Chairman Leroy H. True, President - Chief Executive Officer Alcon Chadwick Vice Pres.
Albert F. Egan, J r . Vice Pres. Mrs. R. Arthur Orleans Vice Pres.
George W . Jones Vice Pres. J o h n N. Welch Treasurer Edouard A. Stackpole Historian
Albert G. Brock Vice Pres. Richard C. Austin Secretary
Miss Dorothy Gardner Robert D. Condon H. Flint Ranney
Donald E . Terry Miss Nancy Ayotte David D. W o r t h Helen W . Chase
Harold W. Lindley Rennv A. Stackpole, Director of Museums Edouard A. Stackpole, Editor "Historic N a n t u c k e t " Mrs. Merle T . Orleans, Assistant Editor Mrs. Elizabeth Tvrer, Executive Secretary STAFF
Oldest House Curator *Mrs. Kenneth S. Baird Mrs. Margaret Crowell, Mrs. Abram Niles Hadwen House-Satler Memorial Curator *Mrs. P. Prime Swain Mrs. Richard A. Strong, Mrs. Bracebridge H. Young, Mrs. Everett B. Merrithew, Mrs. Kathleen D. Barcus 1800 House Mrs. Helen S. Soverino Whaling Museum Curator, Rennv A. Stackpole Rev. Frank J . Pattison, Manager; J a m e s A. Watts, Mrs. Arthur Collins, Mrs. Robert E. Campbell, Alfred N. Orpin, Miss Elizabeth Lombard Greater Light Dr. Selina T. Johnson Peter Foulger Museum Director *Edouard A. Stackpole Asst. Director Peter S . MacGlashan Mrs. Reginald F. Hussey, Librarian; Mrs. Norman A. Barrett, Miss Marjorie Burgess, Miss Helen Levins, Alcon Chadwick, Mrs. Ruby O'Reilly Maev-Christian House Curator, *Mrs. J o h n A. Baldwin; M iss Dorothy Hiller, Mrs. Edouard A. Stackpole, Mrs. t,dna Docca Old Gaol Curator Albert G. Brock Old Mill Curator *John Gilbert Millers J o h n A. Stackpole, Mr. and Mrs. Edward Dougan Fair Street Museum Curator *Albert F. Egan, J r . Lightship " N a n t u c k e t " C u r a t o r " J o h n Austin; Richard Swain, Everett Finlay Hose Cart House Curator *Francis W . Pease Archaeology Department Chairman *Rev. Edward Anderson; Vice C h a i r m a n Mrs. John D.C. Little Building Survey Committee Chairman *Robert G. Metters Old Town Office Curator *Hugh R. Chace *Ex-officio members of Council
HISTORIC NANTUCKET Published, quarterly and devoted to the preservation of Nantucket's antiquity, its famed heritage and its illustrious past as a whaling port. Volume 29
October, 1981
No. 2
CONTENTS Nantucket Historical Association Officers and Staff
2
Editorial: "From Sea to Shining Sea"
5
Annual Meeting of the Nantucket Historical Association
6
Gift Membership
8
The Old Town Clock in the Old South Tower by Eleanor Phinney
9
Address Changes and Bequests
18
Nantucket's Busy Days of 150 Years Ago by George W. Jones 'Whaler Pluck"
31
Historic Nantucket is published quarterly at Nantucket, Massachusetts, by the Nantucket Historical Association. It is sent to Association Members. Extra copies $.50 each. Membership dues are—Annual-Active $7.50; Sustaining $25.00; Life—one payment $100.00 Second-class postage paid at Nantucket, Massachusetts Communications pertaining to the Publication should be addressed to the Editor, Historic Nantucket, Nantucket Historical Association, Nantucket, Massachusetts 02554.
Gift Suggestions For Christmas and Other Occasions.
Scrims Ha^
on Polymer Ivory, a synthetic which looks and feels like genuine bone, and is not a part of any endangered species. These reproductions are executed by scrimshanders copying originals in our collection as well as examples from other museums.
Susan's Tooth First carved between 1826 and 1830 by Frederick of the whaleship SUSAN out of Nantucket, this is one of a dozen or so remaining teeth considered to be among the finest examples of the scrimshander's art, an original recently sold for $29,000. Our replica is a strictly limited series and comes numbered complete with documentation and glass vitrine. $150.00.. A View Of Nantucket Mass. 1853 An eight inch long tooth dipicting the harbor and town with great detail. Whaleships are at the wharves, a rowboat crosses the harbor and fish ermen cast off Coatue. $50.00
Whale At Bay Tooth
An action scene in which a sperm whale is threatening a whaleboat while another boat is being taken for a "Nantucket Sleigh Ride" The tooth is 7" long. $48.00. Available Whaling Museum Gift Shop
or write: Nantucket Historical Association Box 1016 • Nantucket, Mass. 02554 (Add $1.00 for tax and postage)
Nantucket Doorways
cScoffs
By EDOUARD A. STACKPOLE with photos by Melvin Summerfield. Stories of the doorways, of the houses around them, and the lives led behind them. Hardcover. g5
Nantucket Island
Thresholds to the Past liowi>• Sc^kpoU
By ROBERT GAMBEE with an introduction by Nathaniel Benchley. Over two hundred photographs, some of areas never before published. The whole Island in sensitive black and white studies. Available in paperback for $10.95 or the deluxe hardcover edition... QQ
Nantucket In The Nineteenth Century By CLAY LANCASTER. A beautifully factual and pictorial book on the history of houses, streets and hotels stressing the architectural and socio economic aspects of the time. Illustrated with drawings and photographs from glass plates in the Nantucket Historical Association and private collections. Paperback. ^g gg
From The Galleys Of Nantucket A recipe anthology. Published by the First Congregational Church of Nantucket. A most complete compilation of Island gastronomic delights. Paperback. $4 g5
The Nantucket Way.
By ROBERT F. MOONEY and ANDRE R. SIGOURNEY. From the special vantage point of two practicing Island attorneys, this book traces the spirit of Nantucket law to illuminate its unique history. Hardcover. ^2 95
The Early Settlers Of Nantucket By LYDIA S. HINCHMAN. A reprint of the first edition published in 1896. Gives an interesting account of the first Nantucketers who were pioneers in every sense of the word, and follows the wanderings and manner of life, not only of the early settlers but their associates and descendants as well.
The Island Steamers
Hardcover. $35.00
By PAUL MORRIS and JOSEPH MORIN. Everyone who has crossed Nantucket Sound should have a copy of this book. Illustrated with 335 photographs, it is filled with fascinating information about the ships from the first paddle wheeler to today's vessels of. the Steamship Authority. Softcover. ^44 gg
Old Nantucket The Faraway Island By WILLIAM O. STEVENS. A classic book that is still considered by many knowledgeable Nantucket ers to contain some of the best descriptions of the Island. Paperback. g5
Art On Nantucket A beautiful book with 90 colored and 160 black and white illustrations with explanations, for summer distribution. We immediately furnish prospectus assuring that a numbered copy has been bought with a dedication page to be given pending publi cation of the book. A very special gift, ^50 gg
cIKore
Reproductions
Scrims Raw
Bookends Reproductions from the Scrimshaw Room of the Whaling Museum. One tooth depicts the fitting out of the "Sunbeam" while the other is of the "Charles W. Morgan". QQ
Ditty box Beauty and utility combined, these boxes are copies of one on display at the Peabody Museum of Salem. Choice of carved whale or whale hunt lids. ^G,QQ
Whale Cribbage Board
Also from Salem, this is an excellant gift for the Cribbage player. ^4Q 0Q
Buckles
Letter Opener
Small oval ship set in leather Small oval ship set in pewter Medium schooner set in pewter Large oval ship set in pewter black or sepia
Plaque Reproduction of a blue whale originally carved by the late Althea Macy of Nantucket. (mahogany) $28.00
$18.00 $16.00 $16.00
$20.00
Eight inches long with whale design on handle. $31.00
(Bitter Sifts Ceramic Tiles
I
Old Mill or four of our buildings, Whaling Museum, Oldest House, Hadwen House, and the Lightship. $3.95
Linen Towels White on royal blue, excellent for drying glassware. $2.95
Nantucket Color View Calendar for 1982
$4.95
Note Paper Eight different Nantucket scenes. Full-color photos by Edna Schanzer. 95 Nantucket at the Turn of the Century, twelve pen and ink sketches by Nantucket artist Sheila Welch. $2.95 Pen and ink sketches of the Old Mill, Oldest House, or Lightship, mixed in boxes of twelve. ^ 73
Christmas Cards Turn of the Century, also by Sheila Welch. Boxes of twelve $3>95
Collector's Cup Plates By the Pairpont Glass Co., showing Brant Point. In amber, clear or teal. $7.00
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aJLmmr > n
Hand-dipped on the Island they are: Spermaceti Spermaceti Cranberry Bayberry
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11" 15" 11" 11"
all come in boxes
$3. 50 per $4.00 per $3. 00 per $3. 00 per
pair pair pair pair
"From Sea to Shining Sea" THE INCREASE IN building which has characterized Island life for two decades, has an impact that can be measured only by its effect on the future of Nantucket life. The important vote of the last town meeting reflects the con cern of the people, and efforts to control growth will, it is hoped, have a pro nounced effect on the trend. One comment expressed the fear that if uncheck ed the Island would end up in a spreading tide of houses from shore to shoreengulfing the landscape. The sustained program of the Nantucket Conservation Foundation has, in a large measure, preserved certain parts of the Island in the true natural state. In years to come Nantucketers will be grateful for the work accomplish ed by the Foundation. But how can the present owners of sections of the outlying land help in the vital work of preservation? The temptation to gain a large profit is, in many cases, too great a factor in the transfer of land, and little, if any, effort is made on the part of these individuals to give land to the Foundation. However, those who have made such transfers possible are those to whom Nantucket owes an especial thanks, and the Islanders of the future will be more aware of their indebtedness to these generous people. Investment in Nantucket land has become a lively financial game. But there are certain altruistic attributes to land ownership which are not to be ig nored, and the historical value of the land is first among these. Much of the future well-being of Nantucket is the amount of land which may be preserved for the pleasure of its visitors. As a place that has become an historical treasure-where the old settlers' sheep ranges may be seen, the homestead sites described, the farm-land protected, the transition of the old settlement of the mid-seventeenth century to the "new" town of the eighteenth-the outly ing lands of Nantucket should be protected by the expedient of having the Town acquire these sections. Perhaps the National Environmental Pro tection Agency could provide the money for such purposes. The old refrain, "from sea to shining sea," has an inspirational, ringing quality. We would like to have such a slogan rather than "from roof-line to roofline," stretching across the old homestead land. It is a true travesty on our heritage to see the former sheep-commons become a series of housing developments. -Edouard A. Stackpole
Annual Meeting of the Nantucket Historical Association IN KEEPING WITH the time set in recent years, the annual meeting of the Nantucket Historical Association was held on Tuesday, July 21, at the Peter Foulger Museum, convening at 4:00 o'clock in the afternoon, with many members and friends in attendance. President Leroy H. True presided and called upon Secretary Elizabeth Tyrer and Treasurer John H. Welch for their reports as the first order of business. Both statements were received with close attention, and the affairs of the Association were found to be in excellent con dition. It was the eighty-seventh annual meeting of the Association. The highlight of the afternoon was the announcement by Walter Beinecke, Jr., Chairman of the Executive Committee, that the new addition to the Whaling Museum, now under construction, will be named the "Leroy H. True Hall," in honor of President True and his years of service to the Associa tion. In acknowledging the honor, Mr. True expressed his pleasure but felt also that there were many others more worthy of the honor, and stated he would have objected had he been aware such a plan was being advanced. "I appreciate this," he remarked, "but must also observe to you that I am both pleased and flattered." He then introduced Edouard A. Stackpole, Historian of the Association, who spoke of the Educational Program during the year. In a significant col laboration with the University of Massachusetts-Boston, classes in Nantucket History are held each year from January through April, and a dozen students from the Boston area come to Nantucket to live during the seminar. They are joined by an equal number of Island residents, and the class attends daily ses sions at the Peter Foulger Museum, where the manuscript collections and the Library play important research roles, with the Librarian, Mrs. Louise Hussey, being invaluable to the course. The University grants credits, and several local teachers have found this worthwhile. Mr. Stackpole also described the acquisition of an important manuscript written by Thomas Nickerson, the last survivor of the famous open-boat voyages of the Essex's whaleboats after the sinking of the whaleship by a whale. Written in the form of a Journal, the manuscript was found in Connec ticut and presented to the Association by Mr. and Mrs. James Finch. It was written in 1877, and left the Island at that time in the hands of a professional writer, who intended to re-write and publish it, an enterprise which he never accomplished. Now, after over a century, Thomas Nickerson's Journal returns, and the speaker expressed a strong hope that the Association will soon publish it.
ANNUAL MEETING
7
The next speaker was Renny A. Stackpole, the new Director of the Museums, who told of plans for new exhibits. He commented on the new addi tion to the Whaling Museum, where the new hall will feature the exploration of the whalemen, navigational displays, old charts and instruments, portraits and paintings. The Sankatv Head Lighthouse assembly will have a prominent part in the new hall. He mentioned plans for the emphasis on the Hadwen sperm candle press in the Museum, and the opportunity of visiting the Hadwen House, on Main Street, and the association of this era in Nantucket's whaling history. He described some of the work with Nantucket students attending marine classes on the Nantucket Lightship, and enthusiastically told of the week's cruise these students experienced aboard the topsail schooner Shenandoah, all of which added materially to their maritime knowledge. He also gave a brief account of the activities and progress of the Nantucket Preservation In stitute, now in headquarters at the Coffin School, and the co-operation of the Institute and the Association. The Library of the Association at the Peter Foulger Museum has a complete file of the architectural projects which the students have accomplished over the years, with measured drawings of historic and old Nantucket dwellings, together with the essays. In his remarks, President True gave an account of the finances which compare favorably with the income and expenses of recent years. He express ed his appreciation for the work the chairmen of the buildings have ac complished, and pointed out the necessary maintenance of these structures on a year-'round basis. He spoke of the dedication of the Memorial at the Hadwen-Satler House, where the Nantucket Garden Club completed the year's work on the garden area with the placement of a beautiful urn, in ap propriate ceremonies. It was somewhat of a surprise to many in attendance at the meeting when President True announced that Nantucket Foundation has turned over the Kenneth Taylor Gallery to the Association. He stated that the work on the monumental project, Art On Nantucket, the book which will be published by the Association, is proceeding under the program set up by Robert DiCurcio, and is scheduled for 1982, under the direction of a committee headed by Albert Egan. Mention was made of the forthcoming art exhibit at the Fair Street Rooms, featuring the paintings of the artist William Swain, of whose work the Association is fortunate in owning some twenty-five portraits. Swain's work is excellently described in an illustrated article in the current issue of the magazine Antiques, written by Agler, of the Boston Public Library. The Nominating Committee presented the following slate of officers for the coming year. Councillors, terms expire 1985, Helen Winslow Chase,
8
HISTORIC NANTUCKET
Harold W. Lindley; Vice-Presidents, Alcon Chadwick, Merle T. Orleans, Albert G. Brock, George W. Jones, Walter Beinecke, Jr., and Albert F. Egan; Secretary, Richard C. Austin; Treasurer, John N. Welch; Nominating Com mittee, Richard C. Austin, H. Flint Ranney, Merle T. Orleans. Prior to the close of the meeting, Mrs. Helen Seager spoke briefly of the Nantucket Old Mill, where two of her children are working this summer. They had visited mills on the Cape which are not in working order, have no interest to the public other than that they are there to be looked at, while Nantucket's Old Mill not only works just as it did back in 1746, but grinds 275 lbs of corn daily. A brief meeting of the Council was held at which Leroy H. True was re elected President,Walter Beinecke, Jr., Chairman of the Council, Mrs. Grace Grossman, Vice-Chairman of the Council. The Executive Committee, which was voted to act as the Finance Committee also, was elected to include Mr. Beinecke, Mr. True, Mr. Egan, Mrs. Grossman, Mr. Welch and George W. Jones.
GIFT MEMBERSHIP Each year a number of people give membership in the Association as a Christmas gift or just a friendly gesture for any occasion to others with Nan tucket ties or interest. Whether the recipients live here on the Island or six thousand miles away, they appreciate the articles in "Historic Nantucket" each quarter, the right to visit the museums whenever they like, use the research and genealogy library at the Peter Foulger Museum, and other benefits of membership. Membership costs 87.50 a year, one hundred dollars for life (S150 for both husband and wife) and the card can be sent to the donor, or directly to the recipient.
The Old Town Clock in the Old South Tower By Eleanor Phinney
IT WAS ONE hundred years ago that Nantucket acquired the basis for its present town clock. The annual town meeting minutes for February 21, 1881, contain the following letter, written on stationery of the President's Office of the Oregon Railway and Navigation Company, 20 Nassau Street, New York, to Henry Paddack of Boston: I notice that my native town Nantucket is very much in want of a new town clock. I wish upon receipt of this that you would communicate with the Selectmen and state to them that I would like to present the Town of Nantucket with a first class clock suitable to be put in the South Tower, if they will accept the same. You will please call upon the Howard Co. of Boston and see what a Clock will cost put up and guaranteed. I should think from five hundred to seven hundred dollars would get a good one. Please let me hear from you by return mail address me as above to Post Office Box 421. Yours respectfully, W. H. Starbuck This letter was followed by a letter to Mr. Paddack dated the next day, in which Mr. Starbuck elaborated on the kind of clock he wanted, an "entirely new one" and suggested "a black marble face or black porcelain face with gilt hands and numbers," and expressed his willingness to go as high as a thou sand dollars "if it is necessary." There was no hesitation on the part of the town meeting, which voted to accept the gift "with thanks to the donor for the generous and timely remem brance of the needs of our town."1 The new clock is described in a report of the committee to obtain a new town clock, to be paid for by William Hadwen Starbuck, Hon. James Easton, 2d, chairman: The clock itself weighs 1800 pounds, and carries hands on four dials nine feet four inches in diameter. The wheels are all
THE OLD TOWN CLOCK
11
made from brass, cast especially for the purpose. The pinions are made from the best of square steel forged round. The arbors also are of steel. The journals are made from brass and all run from composition boxes and so arranged that any one of the shafts can be removed without disturbing the others, assisting very much when the clock requires cleaning. The length of the pendulum is ten feet and beats 36 times to the minute. The pendulum ball weighs 175 pounds. In arranging the winding, there is a pinion at tached to the key, the key turning round three times to the barrel once, thereby enabling one to wind with more ease. In place of the rope on the barrel, there is a wire cord made especially for the purpose, the strength of which is tested to a strain of 2,500 pounds. The height of the clock is seven feet, the width of the bed twenty-six inches, length of the bed five feet four inches. The ar rangement for setting the clock is very simple, there being a dial on the clock movement inside comparing with the outside, and by pressing on a pin, all five dials are set at the same time. The strik ing train raises a hammer weighing sixty pounds and is so arrang ed that if it refuses to strike at any given hour, it will strike cor rectly the following hour, making what we call a repeating clock. The length of the cord which is run off the striking barrel is 150 feet, that of the time barrel 50 feet. A new room especially for the purpose has been put up over the new clock, a new floor having been laid. The clock room is seven and one-half by seven feet, and seven and one-half feet high, with glass sides and ends three feet above the floor, made as tight as possible to protect from dust. A part of the partition on the side of the stair leading to the belfry was taken away to give more light to the clock room.2
It should be noted that although the sum of $1,000 was paid for the Howard clock, the four dials today are of wood, and it may be assumed that these dials originally formed part of the clock as given by Mr. Starbuck. The clock today is run by electricity, the clock mechanism having been removed to the Peter Foulger Museum after the clock was automated. The Howard clock was installed and first set in motion on May 28, 1881, and on July 11 in the then Town Hall the town's gratitude was expressed with appropriate ceremonies for the gift of William Hadwen Starbuck. Afterward the donor ordered the whole exterior of the church painted, and the dome gilded at his expense. According to the Inquirer and Mirror, the gilding was the result of a suggestion appearing in that paper; the work was begun with the removal of the vanes and ball on June 24.3
12
HISTORIC NANTUCKET
The first town clock had been installed in 1823, after a series of town meetings, the first of which occurred on July 1, 1822. As reported in the Nan tucket Inquirer, this meeting "was held yesterday to act upon the expediency of placing a clock in the steeple of the Rev. Mr. Swift's meeting house."4: A committee for the further investigation of the subject was appointed, and the meeting adjourned to July 6, when a favorable report was received. "It was suggested that a good wooden clock with two or three dials would serve," but on motion by Mr. K. Starbuck, the town resolved to have a brass one with four dials, and a committee of three was thereupon raised with instructions to carry out the resolution into immediate effect. However, the Inquirer for July 23 reports that notice had been given for yet another town meeting on the 24th to reconsider the previously taken votes. "We really thought the Clock was going up with all possible despatch...but a small number of inhabitants...attended the last meeting and it is hoped that the punctual attendance of all qualified voters will be given at the meeting tomorrow." Evidently, this plea had some effect, for the July 30 issue reports that the "town finally concluded to direct the committee appointed at a previous meeting to proceed in the execution of the contract for a clock as before directed." According to Godfrey, the old clock was made here on the island. "The iron and brass works...was finished by Samuel Jenks; the dials and hands designed and made by Robert W. Jenks; the castings which were of brass were made by David Fields. Mr. Barzillai Davidson of Providence, R.I., was assisted by Walter Folger Jr. in adjusting the instrument, which was made in the old Morris building on Lower Main Street.5 All did not go smoothly, as the following indignant letter testifies: The public are hereby informed why this instrument is so frequently out of order, that there may be no blame attached to the workmanship of the machinery, or to its being stopped from striking during the night, or to the carelessness of the superinten dent. It is well known that the workmanship is complete and regular, therefore the cause is not there. Neither is it affected by the 'Clock's not striking nights' (as it is termed) for instead of striking the bell, the hammer strikes a bar of iron; therefore the sound of the bell, or the want of the sound, does not accelerate, impede, or stop its motion, by any means;~so the cause is not to be found there.
Photograph by Robert R. Hall, Polpis Road The bell was rehung in a massive yoke, and Miss Woodford pulled on the rope for the first sound of the bell in its new setting. The Rev. Edward Anderson enthusiastically hails the accomplishment.
THE OLD TOWN CLOCK
15
Neither does the clock run down (as we call it) for if my atten dance would have kept it going, I have attended enough (at the rate of once in eight days) to keep it going for fifty years to cometherefore that is wound up. The cause is this. Boys have had too free access to the tower, and have frequently entangled the hands at the dials with twine, etc. which had worked into the center of the sockets, and caused the works to bind, and therefore stopped the clock. It is evident that a very small repelling power applied to the minute hand of a timepiece, is capable of resisting the propelling power, of ten thousand times its weight, consequently a very small matter is sufficient to stop its motion. I understand the proprietors of the Meeting House, are deter mined that there be no more public keys to the Tower for the future. Those persons therefore who wish to view the clockmachinery, are informed that an opportunity occurs every Satur day afternoon, after four o'clock, at which time it is wound up. R. W. Jenks, Superintendent.6 It was in 1849 that the bell was tied into the striking of the hours, and thus became the official voice of the town clock. It was also at this time that this custom of ringing the 52 strokes at 7 a.m., at noon, and at 9 p.m. was started permanently by order of the Selectmen.7 Heretofore the Congrega tional bell had been used occasionally for this purpose. In fact, the custom may go back to the year 1800, when according to Nantucket Argument Set tlers, the town voted on the 3d of November to hire a man to ring the bell in the Congregational tower "at sun-rising in the morning, at 12 o'clock in the day, and at 9 o'clock in the evening every day in the week except for the first day of the week, and 9 o'clock on first day evening, and at all other times in emergencies." However, this lasted only a few weeks when it was found that no money was available for the purpose.8 While there are various stories explaining the exact 52 strokes, it is ac cepted that the original order was for the bell to be rung for three minutes to mark the time to go to work, to stop for noon dinner, and as curfew. The custo dian soon realized that he need not time the ringing, and that 52 strokes would fulfill the order. It remains to be discovered how the arrangement be tween the Second Congregational Meeting House Society and the Town authorities came about.
4N»
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Photograph by Robert R. Hall, Polpis Road A long handle hand drill was used to bore a hole at the top of the bell, 1 inch in diameter, at the center to hang the new clapper. In this re-enactment the metal braces used to hold the drill in place are not shown. The old clapperhanger had to be cut from the inside of the bell with a rotary grinder, a tedious and tiring assignment but Miss Woodford accomplished it.
THE OLD TOWN CLOCK
17
The tower in which the clock and the Portuguese bell are installed has its own history. The original tower, built in 1809, became dangerously weakened by the weight of the three-quarter ton bell, and in 1830 was replaced by the steeple, built by Perez Jenkins, in which it remains today. This tower is separate from the main structure, and rises 109 feet, 5V6 inches from the sidewalk to the top of the dome.
One of the arguments which influenced the Quakers to contribute to the original purchase of the bell was that it would be used to alert the community in case of fire. The tower did indeed serve as a place to house the fire watch until 1907, when an automatic fire alarm system was set up. Theretofore, two men spent each night in the tower, alternating on watch in the glass-enclosed room above the bell and close by the stove in the room below, ready to ring the bell at the shout of the watchman. Over the years the tower has raised its golden dome as a landmark and a beacon for mariners, and a lookout for wrecks along the shore. For many years Billy Clark watched for the steamer and for other arrivals, which he would signal by blowing a fish horn from the steeple.
An account of the method used in re-gilding the dome, vane and clock ap peared at the time of the most recent work, in which it is pointed out that due to weather, the gold had become dulled, and had worn off in patches. "The dome and weathervane were both scraped, wire brushed and sanded to achieve a smooth surface. All dust was then removed, and zinc chromate primer was applied, followed by a coat of gold sizing. When the latter had cured to its proper consistency, the 23-carat gold leafing was carefully ap plied. The weathervane was then greased and the exposed metal portions not requiring gold leaf were painted." The same process was used for each hand, numeral and minute marker on the four dials of the clock.9
Until 1957, the bellringer climbed the 42 steps to the room where the bellrope hung, three times a day. It was the boast of Jay Gibbs, the last bellringer, that he had never missed since he took over from his father in 1932. However, when in 1957 it became evident that a successor to Mr. Gibbs could not be found, the clock and bell were electrified, to the regret of many. A few years later, the four dials were lighted at night for the first time.
Each year, there appears in the Town Warrant an item for the operation of the town clock. In 1981 the Town paid to the Second Congregational Meeting House Society $800 rental; a salary of $600 was budgeted to pay Reginald Reed for maintaining the clock, and the sums of $388 for utilities and $150 for maintenance were allowed
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HISTORIC NANTUCKET
So the triumvirate--the one hundred year old clock, the one hundred and fifty-one year old tower, and the one hundred and seventy-one year old voice of the clock, the mellow Portuguese bell-continue to serve the Town. References 1. Minutes, Annual Town Meeting, Nantucket, Feb. 21, 1881. 2. Godfrey, Edward. The island of Nantucket,Lee & Shepard, p.80 ff. \ 3.The Inquirer and Mirror, June 25, 1981, "Looking Backward." 4. Nantucket Inquirer, July 2, 1822. 5. Godfrey, p. 83-84. 6. Nantucket Inquirer, Aug. 5, 1823. 7. Nantucket Argument Settlers. Turner, 1917-46, p. 40. 8. Ibid., p. 23. 9. Inquirer and Mirror, October 14, 1971.
ADDRESSES/BEQ UES TS
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Nantucket's Busy Days of 150 Years Ago by George W. Jones NANTUCKET HAS HAD many interesting things happen in its past and has been fortunate in the interest displayed by some of her many outstanding former inhabitants. They have had sufficient interest and curiosity to search out facts and commit them to the written or printed record for future genera tions' information and enjoyment. Much has been written about the early settlement, about the raising of sheep, about the difficulties experienced by the inhabitants during the wars with England and our own Civil War. Even more has been recorded about the actual pursuit of the whale, the record voyages, the money made in whale oil, the dangers of the chase and even the monotony of the voyages, and the romance of the south seas, natives of those islands, cannibals and head hunters coming in for their share of attention. Strangely, with all this writing, very little has been put on permanent record about the effort and industry that made these voyages possible. It is my purpose today to bring to your attention, and I hope to interest you, in that supporting island industry. Let us roll back the calendar for 150 years. Why that particular length of time? Well that would carry us back to the year 1832, and it was in that year that Nantucket outfitted and sent to sea after whales a greater number of fullrigged ships than for any like period-a total of forty vessels. The total number of ships sailing from the Island from 1815 through 1848, inclusive, was 841. The average number departing annually during this time was twenty-five, and in no year did less than thirteen sail, mostly to the Pacific. The business grew, and although the number of vessels departing remained much the same for a number of years, they steadily increased in size from 100 tons to 500. Imagine, if you will, forty vessels, all but three being full-rigged ships or barks, com pletely rigged and prepared for long voyages, all this work concluded in a 12-month period, in the year 1832. Seven of these ships were new, having been completed that year. Of this total, nine ships were to be at sea between three and four years; seventeen would be out between two and three years; five were to be at sea between one and two years; seven for less than a year; two for several short voyages; one sunk at sea with 1800 bbls. of sperm oil. It might be well to compare at this point the growth of this business with
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two peak eras involved. From 1771 to 1775 there were some 150 vessels out of Nantucket. The total catch in sperm oil was 26,000 bbls; with 4,000 of whale oil. In the 1832 period the total in sperm oil brought home was 47,845 bbls. and whale oil totalled 12,061 bbls. The only reason this year is different from those immediately preceding it or following was in the number of ships outfit ted. Few people who read of big battles, with many men involved, realize the great efforts put forth by many times that number of persons to prepare for and make possible the final clash. The same laws hold true in such an industry as whaling. Most people reading about, and interested in this activity (as car ried on in the last century), see only the period from the time a whale ship left the home port until her return. They re-live the accidents, trials, dangers, the courage, perseverence and even the boredom. These are the romantic aspects that appeal to us all. But none of these things could develop if great prepara tions had not been made by many people before the ship ever left the wharf. It is our purpose to consider these preparations. In 1832 the population of some 7,000 people engaged almost exclusively in whaling and its supportive industries. It is difficult to recall all the different skills that were required to carry on this business of outfitting. Let us go back in time to that outstanding year, one hundred and fiftyone years ago. We are approaching Nantucket from the north. No water-tower appears on the north shore; it will be many years before running water will become commonplace. Dug wells supply water for all uses. No break-water marks the entrance to an outer harbor, only a long sandy bar delineated by a line of white caps. Through this bar are two channels at low water having a depth of only six feet at low tide by which we gain entrance. On either side are low sandy and swampy peninsulas: Coatue on our left, Brant Point on our right. On Brant Point only a rope walk can be seen near the north headland, and a small wooden light house near where the brick structure will be built in 1856. Next to the light house and nearer town is a ship yard from which a new whale ship has recently been launched. A few cattle graze on pasturage separated by wooden fences, near the north bluff. On the far shore to the south hardly a house is to be seen, nothing but green hills where the settlement of Monomoy and Shimmo will appear much later. We see no yachts or pleasure craft but there are many vessels anchored off, either recently arrived with supplies or awaiting the proper tide and wind to be on their way with outgoing cargoes of oil and candles. The sky-line of the town shows no gas-holders, oil tanks or smoke-stacks,
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only a forest of masts of the ships and schooners lying at the wharves, which run much further into the harbor than they will when this great fleet has disappeared and become only a memory. We see four wind mills busily turning as they grind corn or other cereals. They are rather closely grouped and only one will be destined to be still in existance in the year 1981. The South Tower and the North Church Tower stand out against the sky high above the surrounding buildings. Of trees there are few' and upon landing we see only the most important streets are paved with cobblestones. We have here a compact town in which live some 7,000 people and where the many houses are packed closely to-gether as it is possible to build them. Few vehicles are in evidence as we walk up from the long wharf. Only the horse-drawn commercial trucks and drays, many boasting only two wheels. Only the ship owners and a few other financially influential men can afford pleasure vehicles and fine horses. Most people walk and think little of going on foot to Sconset, Madaket, Polpis or to other outlying lands, and to many farms. These farms, which very likely number near a hundred, are mostly small family farms upon which are raised staples and animals to feed and clothe the occupants. Many worked in conjunction with fishing in season. A compact grouping of domiciles and business establishments is necessary and desirable for communications requirements for telephone and auto and even bicycles are not known. All contacts must be made personally or by messenger and mostly on foot. When one walks to work and returns home, after a long day, in the same manner, it is advantageous to be close to one's occupation. The wharves are busy places with returning whalers and coastal craft moving in and out in never ending trade with mainland ports. s i . ; '• v Such vessels are in a constant state of unloading, loading, or out-fitting. Blocks creak as cargoes are discharged or loaded. Caulking mallets beat a tat too and drays loaded with filled oil casks rattle up Main St. over the cobbles to the oil refiners to the westward. These oil casks come from compact rows which have been landed on the wharves. Ship-chandlers' shops are numerous along the streets near the wharves. Sail lofts are receiving bolts of canvas and turning out sails on an almost'daily schedule. Sperm-candle factories are heavily engaged producing the candles which will light thousands of places in this country and abroad. (
}, . . t(*\ t • >.-• !i>:. We see hemp, bales of it, being trucked to one rope-walk or another, and
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HISTORIC NANTUCKET
wagons returning with rope for the riggers to ply their trade. The ring of blacksmith hammer on anvils can be heard coming from numerous shops. Cord wood is piled high in all spare room on and near the wharves in anticipa tion of the demand for heating during the colder seasons. A busy, bustling, energy expending place it is; this the world's greatest whaling port. In recounting our story we naturally start with the building of the ships themselves. It was customary for the Nantucket merchants to have their ships built on the mainland, where timber and labor were plentiful and close by. However, one of the seven new ships in 1832, the Charles Carroll, was con structed on Brant Point, in a shipyard occupying land just west of the present Coast Guard Station. The Charles Carroll was a large whaleship for her times, being rated at 376 tons. Such work requires the employment of many skilled mechanics, loft-men, pattern makers, ship wrights, ship carpenters, copper sheathers, caulkers, rig gers etc. These men were engaged in roughing-out, joining and placing the keel and frames fitting and fastening the outside planking with treenails (pronounced trunnels) the inside sheathing, and the deck planking. Caulking and filling all the thousands of seams, and covering all surfaces below the waterline with sheet copper (nailed on with copper nails, not more than an inch apart) required skilled hands. There was approximately a total of 2Vz miles of seams in an average ship's hull that had to be filled with cotton and oakum material. In fastening the outside planking some 2,000 holes had to be drilled 1 inch apart, to a depth of 8 to 10 inches, for the insertion of the wooden treenails that brought the planking snug up to the frames. Ships' carpenters did the finish work in cabins and between decks. All this took months but was only a fraction of the total work. After the launching the ship must be sparred and rigged. On a full rigged whale ship of that period there were at least 25 spars. Let's count them. There were three lower-masts; fore, main and mizzen; with three top masts one for each lower mast, and three top-gallant masts above the top masts. Each mast was crossed by four yards, a total of twelve; add to these the bow-sprit, jib-boom, spanker boom and spanker gaff. My computation be ing correct, that makes twenty-five. In addition, a number of spare spars were carried to repair storm damage. Thus by simple arithmetic we see that thirty-eight ships would account or a minimum of 950 spars of varied sizes, which from time to time required replacement.
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I will not go into the details of spar measurement, except to say that spars are usually made of hard wood, rounded and shaped and fitted. All this takes skill and a large amount of physical energy. Spar shops were numerous and provided regular employment for many men. Of course, spars would not stand, nor could sails be set, without proper support by the rigging, both standing and running rigging. As there was no steel wire in those days, all lines, both large and small, were of necessity made of fibre, usually hemp, varying from 4-strand hawsers to whale-line, from run ning to standing rigging. They were not measured in feet or yards, but in fathoms which totalled miles and miles. The ropewalks must have been hardpressed to keep up with the demand. Mr. W. R. Easton, who wrote "Reminiscences of 1872," states: "The greatest number of rope-walks in operation at any one time was ten, where nearly all the cordage used by the whaling fleet and other vessels was made." Let us consider this for just a moment; ten rope-walks which were usually in the neighborhood of 600 feet long. Thus we have a total of 6000 feet; roughly one mile and one-fifth of covered structure. That would be a single building reaching from the Pacific Bank down Orange Street to the milestone, and then out Sconset road as far as the Monomoy Road intersection. Time has erased the record indicating the locations of most of these ropewalks but we do know where several of them were built. The street now called E. Lincoln Avenue, and which runs between N. Beach and Walsh Streets, on Brant Point, was the site of one; another operated on land between Union and Washington Streets, running diagonally in a S:E. direction from the property just south of Union Street; a third was situated on the land parallel to, and very near, the south side of Easton Street, running from N. Water St. to N. Beach St. Four others were erected just south of Milk Street, on land that is now part of the Prospect Hill cemetery. Still another was erected on the west side of North Water Street, between Step Lane and Easton Street. Thousands of bales of hemp were delivered to the wharves by the coastal vessels, consisting of some twenty-six sloops and schooners, constantly operating in and out of all the large ports and many small ones between Portland, Maine and New Orleans, La. They furnished a continuous stream of timber, sawed lumber, fire wood, hemp, pine-pitch, copper, iron and food stuffs and carried away full loads of whale oil, elephant oil and candles. A book could be written about these Nantucket coastal vessels alone, a subject which has scarcely been touched and one ripe for research.
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Sail lofts were the working places of many men who cut and hand-sewed some twenty to thirty sails for each craft. The sails used by the vessels outfit ted for whaling in 1832 alone amounted to perhaps a thousand. All sails were not new but many were, particularly for the new ships going out for the first time. We read that "some fifteen hundred bolts of duck wrought into sails and other canvas items were the yearly requirements of this industry." Whale ships carried four, five and six whale boats. You have seen the one in the Whaling Museum. Imagine the labor of supplying the 38 whale ships with these craft. At least 150 would have been required and while some may have been boats being used again from previous voyages many must have been new for many times boats were badly damaged at sea and to outfit a ship for a three or four year voyage with weakened or unsafe boats would have been folly. Thus we may assume that all the new ships had new boats and perhaps half the boats on the older ships would require replacement. This would indicate something over one hundred whale boats built for this year alone. We also read of boats built and shipped to other ports where whaling was carried on. During the French and Indian Wars, whaleboats were used on Lake George and Lake Champlain for carrying British troops. During the Revolution, some 50 whaleboats were taken away by Continental army men who came to the Island and confiscated them. In his "Notes on Nantucket," the Rev. James Freeman wrote: "A whaleboat is built on Nantucket. It is 27 feet long, made of cedar boards one-half inch thick, carries five men to row and one to steer; is built by five or six workmen in three days, and costs fifty dollars." A work-day was probably from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. in the summer, a bit shorter in winter. Long before we had auto production lines, with interchangeable parts, we had here a similar method, with parts being made and stored. There were several boat shops, most of which have long since gone, but one of the largest, known as the"Big Shop," is now the home of Mr. and Mrs. James Glidden, on the corner of Milk Street and Quaker Road. Incidentally, the Rev. Freeman confirms Mr. Easton's figures in stating: "There are ten rope-walks which manufacture each about twenty tons of cor dage in a year." This would indicate a total of 200 tons of cordage made by all ten walks. Power tools were practically unheard of so you may form some idea of the work of men required in the boat-shops to meet the annual demand for boats. Many fittings were of brass, and a brass foundry situated just west of Washington Street, and south of Coffin Street, supplied countless numbers of these things. In the same vicinity, and for many years, there were three tan neries in full operation.
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Iron was imported and some ten or twelve blacksmith shops were busy making the implements used in capturing the whale and processing the blub ber that is: harpoons, lances, flensing irons, whale spades, mincing knives, boat hatchets etc. Many iron ship fittings were required on masts and spars and anchor chains must have been a constant requirement. A trade familiar then, but no longer heard of here, was block-making. All blocks, including the sheaves, were of wood mostly oak and lignum vitae, hav ing a rope strap around them, some of which was wound, served and parcell ed. Each ship required several hundred blocks of assorted sizes for running rigging, plus dead-eyes for standing rigging. William R. Easton, a merchant contemporary with those days, wrote in 1872, in his "Reminiscence": Previous to 1811 Daniel Barney was manu facturing blocks and pumps by water power. His factory was situated on the south side of Old South Wharf (Island Service Wharf) and over the dock. He built a reservoir on the top, the base of which covered the entire building and which was kept filled with water by a wind mill.". Probably used mostly for lathe work. I have very sketchily covered the requirements for the operation of the whale ship but what about the crew. They must take along supplies sufficient to feed and clothe them for many, many months. Obed Macy, in his History of Nantucket, lists the following as necessary food for the well being of a crew on a sperm oil cruise. Stored in casks or board ship: "100 bbls. of salt pork; 100 bbls. of salt beef; 10 tons of bread (hard tack), prepared in many of the bake shops here in the town; 80 bbls. of flour; 1400 gals, of molasses. In addition peas, beans, corn, dried apples, coffee, tea, chocolate, butter, all of good quali ty when loaded. To this must be added the large casks of water, enough to last for weeks on end, and clothing to replace those garments worn out during the voyage. But, wait, we have forgotten one of the most important items. There must be something to store the oil in after it has been boiled out of the blubber. Casks and more casks enough to hold 3000 to 4000 bbls. of oil on each ship. Each must be made of the best white oak and they must vary in size and capacity from three to six bbls. capacity. Several sizes are required to facilitate maximum storage in the hold. These were made on the Island, and then "knocked down" and stowed until needed. A little multiplying will show that, for the ships putting to sea from here in 1832, enough casks had to be made to contain a minimum of 114,000 bbls. of liquid. The cooper's trade was a very important one, both here and aboard the ship. At one time twenty-two cooper shops flourished employing a great many men. One of these structures still exists known as the
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"Cooperage", now a dwelling on Vestal Street, opposite Bloom Street. Another sat on Chester Street, west of Ivy Lodge, about where the Holiday Bicycle Shop now stands. So far we have considered only that employment necessary before the ship left. Much had to be done after her return to prepare the oil for sale in the shape of refined oil and spermaceti candles. Mr. Wm. R. Easton further states: "Whale oil manufacture at its peak, and including elephant oils and candles, resulted in the operation of 36 fac tories," and, "the annual product of these institutions has reached from one to one and one half million dollars". These are 1830-40 dollars having a pur chasing power perhaps 10 times those of today and might indicate a 15 million dollar annual business at today's dollars. According to Dr. Emil T. Guba in his book "Nantucket Odyssey" we believe that there were thirty-six factories so engaged. Obed Macy, in his History, states that 380 tons was produced annually in 1785. Douglas-Lithgow states that 4,560,000 candles were shipped in 1840. The first candle factory was established here in 1772, and so we see this business was of major impor tance. Freeman writes in 1809 that nineteen candle factories were in opera tion at that time. Only two of these buildings are now evident here. One is the Whaling Museum. This building was erected by Richard Mitchell and Sons in 1847, just after the big fire which occurred in 1846. Later it was purchased and operated as an oil and candle factory by William Hadwen and Nathaniel Barney. The other candle factory was in the brick building on the east side of Washington Street, just south of Commercial Wharf. Candles were packed in wooden boxes and large numbers of these boxes were required to transport over three hundred tons of candles. Mr. Easton tells us: "The first steam mill, we think, ever in operation on the Island was established on the North Beach by David Mitchell as early as 1832 or 33, for the manufacture of candle boxes, and successfully carried on for several years, and subsequently another on a more extensive scale was built on the South beach by Levi Starbuck, and operated by him and his son Obed, for the manufacture of casks, candle boxes, grain grinding and the planing of boards. Thus, we may see that all industry, up to 1832, about which I have spoken, was carried on by hand. In 1832, based on the census of 1830, and again in 1840, there were 7,500 inhabitants. Assuming 50% of these were male; allowing for the crews on the whaling ships sailing from here approx-
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imately 60%, which would average 20 men, for a total of approximately 1,500 men, and adding to this boys under 18 years of age, (which by Macy's figures amounted to about 1400), we arrive at a figure of 1,150 male adults to ac complish all this work. Add house construction, farming, store keeping and banking. One thing that made this possible was the absence of child labor laws. All children had their specified chores and when considered advisable by their relatives were allowed and even encouraged to work for wages. In addition many men were skilled at more than one occupation. Thus we can be very sure that at the period we are considering, the first half of the 1800's, and probably for many years previously, for the whaling in dustry lasted approximately 150 years, this was one of the busiest towns along the coast. In Massachusetts, Nantucket ranked third as a shipping port, ex ceeded only by Boston & Salem. From the figures I have presented we can conclude that the following places of employment approximated in number these figures:
Ship yard Boat shops Rope walks Oil factories Candle factories Cooper shops Brass foundry Tanneries Blacksmith shops Spar shops Bakeries Block factories Sail lofts Rigging lofts Candle box factories
perhaps
perhaps perhaps perhaps perhaps perhaps perhaps Totaling
1 5 10 17 19 22 1 3 10 4 12 2 4 3 2 115
This does not take into account clothing stores and food provisioners, ship chandlers, stores, brick yards and as noted by at least one writer of the past a rum distillery. I leave with you a picture of the activity which must have been evident here. The day began with the morning bell at seven, when hundreds of men
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were hurrying on foot to work, and again at noon and when all were moving to and from their dinner, (and I say dinner advisedly) for no light lunch would have sufficed these hard workers. And now, I must close this rather lengthy discourse, hoping I have stimulated your curiosity, to the extent that you may read and discover on your own just what went on here when this was a place of, as the common say ing has it, "wooden ships and iron men".
George W. Jones is a Nantucketer, and has served as President of the Nantucket Historical Association from October, 1965, to October, 1966, and has been a member of the Council for many years and is now a Vice-President of the Association.
WHALER PLUCK A whaler from Nantucket town He had the worst o'luck; He sailed far off around Cape Horn, But not a whale he struck. Three years he cruised,North, South, East, WestFrom pole to torrid zone But when he laid his course for home He'd neither oil nor bone. Yet as he sailed around Brant Point He set his pennant high, And when he tied up at the wharf He lustily did cry: 'We've come home "clean" as we went out We didn't raise a whale; And we hain't got a bar'l o' ile, But we had a damn fine sail!' by Gustav Kobbe from The Nantucket Scrap Basket, published by William F. Macy in 1930