Historic Nantucket, Summer 1994, Vol. 40 No. 2

Nantucket Historical Association Centennial Logo hen did history begin?

The classic response is that history began with the invention of writing. That is a thoughtful answer, but one that does not take into account the fact that written language is but one system of symbols that people have used to record the course of human events.

The NHA's logo- an arrow, a harpoon, and two beaver hats - communicates meaningfully without using any letters.

The arrow refers to an age when hunting was basic to the communal economy.

This age lasted for tens of thousands of years. It lasted on Nantucket until 1641.

Until that year, the people of Nantucket lived in a time before books and maps.

Of all animals, the largest and most difficult to pursue is "the leviathan that lives in the deep ." The zenith of all those centuries of developing hunting skills was reached by Nantucket whalemen in the nineteenth century. The exploration and charting of the watery world was a byproduct of the global hunt for their prey by those valiant seamen. The harpoon is the unique symbol of that period of history.

But what of the two beaver hats?

In 1659 a group of Englishmen paid Thomas Mayhew of Martha's Vineyard

thirty pounds sterling and two beaver hats, "one for myself and one for my wife." In return the group became, in the eyes of English law, the "original" proprietors of Nantucket Island.

Mayhew's reasons for asking for two beaver hats as part of the price for the island are not hard to guess . Fashion.

Con spicuous consumption. Domestic tranquility. They add a human touch to this first recorded island real estate transaction . Beaver hats, worn by both men and women, were much in vogue in seventeenth-century England, and they were

Membership

Museum Shop

e had a wonderful response to our May membership renewal drive, and we look forward to seeing you at this summer's centennial events. If you are not already a member of the Nantucket Historical Association we urge you to join. Our membership categories range from $30 to $1000. All members are entitled to unlimited admission to our exhibits, lectures, historic houses, museums, and research center. Members also receive our quarterly, Historic Nantucket, and a ten percent discount at our Museum Shop. For membership information, please call508-228-1894.

T

W

18 9 4

W

4

very expensive. They have additional symbolic relevance.

European interests pushed outward into two con t in e nts to supply a lucrative market in beaver hats: westward into N orth America and ea stwa rd into Siberia.

Althou gh no mo re the cause of the exploration and se ttl ement of those fronti ers than the w hale was of the world's oceans, the beaver came to represent the expansion of civiliz ati on spurre d by a global economy.

Th e b eaver a nd the whale. One by land . The other by sea.

The thirty "coins" surroundi ng the other objects allud e to the thirty pounds sterling that made up the balance of the purchase price paid to Thomas Mayhew.

Itself a lesson in history, our logo is a fitting symbol of the Nantucket Historical Association's mission . When Nantucket artist Daniel Thaxton was asked to create a special design for our centennial, he stated that the traditional logo was interesting and appropriate, too good to alter. Using it as the basis for the d esign, Thaxton added the commemo rative tex t that is incorporated into the NHA ce ntennial logo as it appears today.

19 9 4

OF

his summer marks a milestone for the Mu s eum Shop. As the Nantucket Historical Association begins its second century, the Museum Shop enters its second decade. In celebration of the China Trade Show, we have carefully assembled a fine selection of Asian reproductions and adaptations to complement this exciting show.

We are also featuring a variety of custom-made commemorative centennial items including our painted porcelain centennial plate as well as centennial tote bags and polo shirts. Be sure to make a visit to the shop part of your Centennial Celebration schedule.

Friends of the NHA he Friends is a group that seeks significant acquisitions for the collections of the NHA and provides the fund s necessary to make thos e ac qui s itions .

Membership is by invit a ti o n and is extended only to those with strong interest in the work of the NHA. Dues are $2500 annually in the form of a tax deductible contribution to the Association . The Friends meet several times during the summer to conduct business and to socialize at an annual dinner.

T

These excerpts are from the record of the first annual meeting of the Nantucket Historical Association, 17 June 1895.

July 1895 NHA's First Annual Meeting From the Recording Secretary's Report: A feature of that meeting, other than the reports of officers and committees, was an address by the Reverend Edward G. Porter, visiting the island from Boston.

Many of his impressions, as well as those of the secretary's report, seem as relevant today as they did a century ago.

The Rev. Edward G. Porter's address to the first annual meeting in July 1895 congratulate you that you have on this wonderful little island so much to be commemorated. As this is my first visit, I ought not to assume much knowledge of the place . .. yet I have been so much impressed ... that I will not hesitate to tell you what a stranger thinks.

I like your narrow peaceful streets with their peculiar pavements and sidewalks, often only on one side. As you are not burdened with traffic they answer all the necessities of town life, and they seem to belong to the place. The houses, too, show features not common elsewhere. The practice of building two-thirds of a house on one side of the front door and one-third on the other gives you more than a cottage and less than a mansion, and this is precisely what many families want. .. . The most striking of all your architectural peculiarities is the outlook platform on the roof - what I should call the hurricane deck and which must have been the contrivance of sailors - a refreshing resort on a summer evening, where I fancy in olden time the forlorn maidens of Nantucket

!

A1r.ry E. Starbuck

t is most desirable to secure all possible material relating to old Nantucket, and members are earnestly requested ... to make an active search for all sorts of relics, particularly manuscripts, before it is too late and those valuable mementoes are carried away from the island as trophies, or by progressive housewives "cast as rubbish to the void." Anyone knowing interesting facts or legends concerning old Nantucketers is urged, in cases where it is allowable, to write them out and send them to the Corresponding Secretary of this society. Nantucket salt, truly, has not lost its savor; but the old pungency is somewhat abated by modern admixtures. Let us collect and preserve what we may of the first essentials.

Respectfully submitted Mary E. Starbuck

used to go to watch the departure of their lovers as they sailed away on their long and perilous voyages.

It is sometimes said that you are isolated down here. This is a mistake. I venture to say that you see more of the world than almost any place of your size on the mainland. Take the average town in the interior of the state and you will find the inhabitants more provincial and less in touch with the busy world than you are. These white-winged messengers of commerce that are always in sight here are a perpetual reminder of national and international life. They tell of busy wharfs and teeming markets and big warehouses and bustling activities in all parts of the earth.

r .......,.........» ..........,...,,............... i>., it ...

II PROCEEDINGS II If I

I i.

NANTUCKET HISTORICAL

~ ~

•

~

i

I S

t

I

I .i

I I

cA.SSOCIATION First, Second and Third

!

cA.nnual Meetings

I. I

1895- 189b-1897

m

wALTHAM PVBI...ISHI N O

co., PRINTERS

WALTHAM, MASS-

·~·

•

i

I

I )

\.~eEEe..-Mee......eeoeE~4?•-".,<P'f'~ .

Cover from the first annual report.

5

This charming portrayal of Nantucket's early educational "establishment" first appeared in the report of the Association's fourteenth annual meeting, 21 July 1908.

Cent Schools Helen A. Gardner o sketch of the by sup plying the teacher' s fam ily w ith home-made Cent Schools of yeast, or "emptyins," as it Nantucket would be complete without menw as then called. In o ne tion of those earlier case the teacher received schools from which they as p a y fo r a litt le gi rl 's were naturally evolved. " sc ho olin g" a pai r of When our ancestors andirons. When the pupil settled here in the mid~:::::::::~==:=~~~~~i===4=;/.~ was an old woman, these andiro ns were give n to _ dle of the 17th Century they brought with them her by the teacher and are from Amesbury and now a valued po ssession Salisbury the ideas of of the famil y.

Old England in regard to In the "cent schools" of the education of the later date the pay seems to young; that is, so far as have been u niform as the reading, writing and figname implies. In the dinuring were concerned. ner pail or sewing bag or Thomas Macy had been tied up in a corner of the Overseer of schools in handkerchief, the cent was Salisbury; Peter Folger a carried to th e teach er at teacher on Martha's each session of the school.

Vineyard; and on Some of the se sc hools Nantucket as early as were kept by young miss1716 the town, by vote in es, not out of their teens, town meeting, hired on Wedne sday and Eleazer Folger to keep Saturday aft ernoons and school for one year for were much like the "day ÂŁ3.

The Hepsibeth Hussey School on Fair Street. nursery" schools of today, Before and after the where tired or busy mothreal public school (in the early days called schools of a higher grade. ers were glad to leave the little ones for a the "charity" school) was established, variIn Nantucket in 1723 "the Wesco and few hours. Others were kept six d ays in ous kinds of private schools flourished. New Town people were authorized by the the week, two session s a day, and w ere Of these the "dame schools" for small chil- Proprietors to set up a Woman's School at open to little boys and gi rls, some of dren and girls of all ages were patterned the head of the Fish Lots." [The building whom were too young for any lessons. after the English schools of the same stood very near to what is today the These had their to y s a nd spe nt long name. In Nantucket this name did not Quaker Meeting House/Fair Street recesses in the yard in good weather.

Many of us learned our letters standing cling to them as long as in Salem and other Museum .]

It would be interesting to know what at the knee of the teacher, w ho pointed towns of Essex County, but in most particulars they were like them. In Old England pay these women teachers received, and it them out with a knitting needle, and when dame schools were often kept by old is possible that some old school bills are we could name them "skipping about" we women who depended upon the meagre cherished among family relics. It is a mat- were promoted to the class tha t had picpay to keep them out of the poor house. ter of record that in 1797 Abiel Hussey ture primers, from which we learned to In New England they were kept by was engaged to teach school at the rate of read and spell.

One recalls her "cent school" days in refined, thrifty women who often taught seventy shillings (equivalent to twelve these words: "Learning to read seems to their own or their neighbor s' children 1908 dollars) per month for 35 scholars.

One mother paid for her child's lessons me now a 'ten minutes of two' operation, until they were old enough to enter

N

6

!

not because the lesson came at that hour, but because we stood in a line and placed our feet at the same angle which the hands of the clock make at ten minutes of two.

As we faced the teacher we looked with wonder at her who could read backwards as she pointed out the words for us to read."

H o w addition and subtraction were taught is not now clear to me, but the multiplication table was sung to a monotonous tune that has made a lasting impression. Division followed naturally, as for example: 3 times 1 are 3 3 in to 3 is 1 3 times 2 are 6 1 in to 6 is 2 3 times 3 are 9 3 in to 9 is 3, etc.

These exercises repeated daily in concert have proved as good as modern methods to strengthen the memory.

On sewing days, when the girls sewed patchwork, the boys were allowed to do a sort of worsted work, which then seemed exciting and intricate: four pins were stuck into a spool, stitches were made on each, and with a fifth pin the worsteds grew into a cord, to be later coiled into a mat.

Sometimes a boy wished to learn how to sew and to knit, and such was the spirit of courtesy and good breeding in the school that he escaped all sneering jokes, and no one called him "sissy."

As some schools were kept in the homes of the teachers, there was often an opportunity for, at least, an observation lesson in cooking or other household art.

O n "clean-house" days or at other times of domestic stress the dinner pail went to school with the child or a note asking that he be given some of Aunt Anne's dinner.

The discipline in these schools was mild but firm. Nothing is recalled more severe than a tap on the hand with the "pointer," or a few minutes on the "repentance stool," where the shame of the punishment soon brought the sinner to a state of penitence. In one school if in the recess games of "Round-a-ring-a-rosy" or "Raise the gates as high as the sky," there was rough pushing or too loud shouting, the next recess was spent in the "pen." This was not a strong place of close confinement. The culprit was encircled by the arms of a blinded invalid who was sitting in his chair, and who, after giving a few hints on proper behavior, generally finished by telling some thrilling incident of

one of his voyages, It has been impossible to make a complete list of "dame" or of "cent" schools.

They were found all over the town and varied in size and length of life.

Dame schools and cent schools have all vanished, but they played an important part in the story of Nantucket. In these days of kindergarten, nature teaching, and manual training those early schools seem crude and old fashioned, yet the testimony of many of us will show that they were happy places for the little folks. We learned to read and to spell at an early age, and with these simple lessons we were daily taught the value of honesty, kindness, and respect for those in authority.

From Proceedings, October 1964, this fascinating account makes a good companion piece to Miss Gardner's story on the Cent Schools.

Island Education That Was ome aspects of the education of Nantucket children in the 1800s are shown in the papers of Captain Joseph Mitchell 2nd, who was a member of the school committee during that period.

The questions asked in certain tests are particularly revealing . For example, in geography there is a distinctly nautical, almost vocational, flavor to the knowledge expected of a Nantucket Island boy of that day who aspired to a seafaring life. Some typical questions include:

S

(1) How many ways are there to go to

the Sandwich Islands, and through what oceans and by what capes do you pass?

(2) Name the seas in and around Europe.

(3) Name some of the principal islands and groups of islands near the coast of Asia.

(4) What cape is south of Hindus tan?

(5) Describe a voyage from Nantucket to San Francisco, thence to St. Petersburg, and back to Nantucket.

(6) What countries of South America border on the Caribbean Sea? (7) Name some of the islands in the Mediterranean Sea.

In arithmetic, also, who but a Nantucket Islander of the whaling era would be expected to come come up with the answers to such questions as: (1) A merchant owning 4/5 of a vessel sold 2/3 of his share for $957. What was the vessel worth?

(2) A ship had a leak which will fill it so as to make it sink in 10 hours; it also has a pump which will clear it in 15 hours.

Now, if they begin to pump when the ship begins to sink, in what time will it sink?

(3) A note for $843.43, given 5th of July, 1817, was paid 14th of April, 1822 .

Interest 7% . What did the principal and interest amount to?

(4) Reduce 8.17s.6c.3qrs to the decimal of a pound.

(5) A cistern has three pipes to fill it, and one to empty it. One pipe will fill it alone in 3 hours, the second in 5 hours, and the third in 9 hours.The other will empty it in 7 hours. If all the pipes are allowed to run at the same time, in what time will the cistern be filled?

(6) If 4/7 of a hogshead of oil is worth $45, what is the value of 2/3 of the remainder?

However, a cultural background was also fostered in addition to the practical side of the school curriculum. But even this was sometimes influenced by the sea.

The questions in grammar not only required a working knowledge of the English language such as "What is a sentence?" "Define Syntax." "Name the different kinds of pronouns." "Define the passive voice of a verb ." But also such gems as: "Parse the underlined words: I hear the tread of pioneers Of Nations yet to be.

The first low wash of waves, where soon Shall roll a human sea.

And: Go forth to the shadowy future With a true and manly heart, And mountains shall dwindle to molehills.

The going is only~- "

And so it went. And is it any wonder, then, with ¡ these examples of Island erudition, that whaling was so lucrative a business for so many?

7

NHA PRESIDENTS 1894-1994

William F. Macy -

Henry B. Coleman -

8

1924-1935

1972-1974

Dr. Charles E. Congdon -

Leroy H. True -

1935-1937

1974-1983

Dr. J. Sidney Mitchell -

1894-1898

Edouard A. Stackpole -

1938-1953

H. Flint Ranney -

1984-1991

liam F. Barnard -1899-1902

Mr

\Talton H. Adams -

1953-1956

Alexander Starbuck -

George W. Jones -

1903- 1922

1956-1967

Arthur H. Gardner -

1923-1924

Edouard A. Stackpole -

1968-1971

The dedicated stewardship of this group of exceptional people has been the key to the continuing growth and success of the NHA through the years. It is with gratitude and pride that we present this gallery of portraits, the presidents of the Nantucket Historical Association during its first hundred years.

Joseph J. McLaughlin -

1992-1993

Kimberly C. Corkran -

1993-

9

At one time the NHA offered an annual prize for the best essay written by a Nantucket High School student about Nantucket's history. In 1922, with the help of English teacher Miss Elizabeth Larned, eighteen pupils submitted entries in the contest. The first prize that year was afive-dollar gold piece, contributed

Reminiscences

by Alcon ix miles east from Nantucket town, and bordering the south shore of an inner harbor, namely Polpis, or Podpis, is the quiet little district of the same name. It is partly surrounded by the inland waterway, which takes the form of a " U. " Swain's Neck, a peninsula, breaks up the harbor. From this, Polpis gets its name, which means "the divided or branched harbor."

The whole region is gently rolling, save for the great swamps. Here the wabsche grass crowds for room, and black ducks hide along the bay. The wide view across the harbor to Coatue, and beyond to the gray town, no one ever forgets. Farm dwellings dot the landscape. Perhaps the next most conspicuous building is the school-house. With its large windows, its white flag-pole, and its now silent belfry, it seems to act as a sturdy guard over the small settlement.

To the east of Polpis lies Squam, a very swampy country, with uplands overgrown with bayberry bushes and briars.

Here is located the famous "Eat-Fire Spring," of Indian fame. It is large and never failing, and furnishes water now for the Heighton farm . This water is said to be the purest on the island.

To the west is a neck of land called Quaise, which means "the end, or point."

Thomas Mayhew reserved this promising tract for his own use when he sold the island of Nantucket to the ten original purchasers. South of Polpis is Spotsor.

Here dwelt an Indian tribe, for whose chief, Spotsor, this region was named .

Through his wife, the daughter of Nickanoose, chief of the Wauwinet possessions, Spotsor was sachem for nearly forty years.

S

10

SEA CLIFF INN

NANTUCKET ISLAND MASSACHUSETTS

..:c

..>;!

~

<::!

~ '0-

;:..,

~

t:

::!

8 ~

L---------------------------------------------------------~

:s

by NHA president Alexander Starbuck. Alcon Chadwick's essay about "Old Podpis" was adjudged the best entry, and the gold piece was awarded to him. Mr. Chadwick states: "Needless to say, this prize was cherished, but in 1933, when gold coinage was called in, Ifelt obliged to part with the coin."

Old Podpis C 1zadwick SEA CLIFF INN NANTUCKET ISLAND MASSACHUSETTS

Pod pis was occupied by the Wauwinet tribe of Indians when the island was first settled by the white men. By degrees it came into the hands of the newcomers.

Nantucketers should be proud of their forefathers, because they did not steal the land away from the red men, as was done some times on the mainland, but bought it, for trinkets, beads, home-spun and grain. According to old records, John Swain, Sr., father of the first white male child born on the island, was one of its first settlers.

As time went on Podpis grew to be a village of importance, though made up mainly of farms. Even now the chief industry is agriculture. Only about onefourth of the large old farms, however, are left. While cultivating one often digs up bricks and mortar, the remains of old dwellings. They used to keep large herds of cattle, which were allowed then to graze on the commons. All the land on the island, with the exception of houselots, was owned in common by a body of share-holders called "The Proprietors of the Common and Undivided Lands ."

None of this was set off to individuals until the latter part of the last century.

Then it was gradually bought up, and the farmers were forced to have their own pastures. Their chief crops were field corn and hay, up to about the year 1890, when Nantucket Island began to grow into a summer resort. At that time they began to do a little market gardening.

The great tracts of the old-time were owned mainly by retired sea captains, who, having either made their fortune or else lost it, settled down here to spend their declining days. Two of these were Capt. Joy, whose farm was on the lane

11

SEA CLIFF INN NANTUCKET ISLAND MASSACHUSETTS

'

I I

·=

on, on a large scale, on Quaise Point. This busy, bustling village of Pod pis w as evidently more prosperous than the present Pol pis.

Another necessary employment here was peat digging. The greater part of the peat used on Nantucket w as found and dug in and around Podpis. These extensive beds seem to prove that at some time I( a great many trees grew o n the island .

Bartholomew Gosnold, w ho may have landed here first, reported that the eastern part of the island was den sely covered with large trees when they found the I (,, .-. island. Peat was for some time the chief fuel. Some of the older Islanders ca n remember now when coal was introduced here. Nantucket people did not like it, fo r it was so hard to kindle. have told that they indicated an antePeat gathering, especially during the glacial deposit, other traces of which have War of 1812, when the British blockaded been found in the Sankaty bluffs and the island, and during th e Civil War, while digging wells and cellars. when coal was a great luxury, became an Farming was not the only occupation important industry. The old beds are now in old Podpis in former days. We find low, wet swamps. To prepare peat for that a number of fulling mills were in use, first the trees must be cleared; then operation during the colonial times. One the roots were pulled out and the turf of these, built over the small stream removed, in much the same way as the halfway between the public school house Sankaty Head golf grou nds are being and the junction of the Pol pis road, was in cleared today. Next the peat was dug out, use in the year 1772. It was managed by a hauled to a bed, and harrowed until the Scotchman named Nichols, with whom lumps were well broken up .

David Allen served as an apprentice until Water was thrown on then to make the he became master of the trade. This Mr. mass soft and pasty, so that they could Allen made the first cut nails ever used on slick it off and mark it into squares. The the Island or even perhaps in this country. slicker was usually a board with a pole A fulling mill was also built by the attached to both ends. This was drawn Gardner brothers at Podpis, but its exact over the peat to smooth it off. A hay fo rk location is not known. Another was oper- was used to mark it into squares. When ated at Quaise. Salt making was carried the top of the peat was dry they turned

(ltur~ ~J~ cudw-~r-

) Mr. Starbuck's letter came in this. almost opposite the schoolhouse, and Capt. Rule, who lived on the farm now occupied by Harry Dunham.

Capt. Joy was a famous whaling master and later took up farming. He was a resolute, hard working man. It is a good thing that he was, for he was the father of eight children. One of the Joy boys, after ploughing all day, was not too tired to walk the six miles to town to see the girls.

As shoes were made at home in those days they were preserved with care, and then passed along. The thrifty lad went barefooted as far as what we call now "Our Island Home." The leather strings of his home-made shoes were tied together and thrown around his neck, so a shoe was swinging on each side. On his way home he trudged along in his precious shoes until he reached his favorite outpost. Then he took them off, hung them on his shoulders, and footed it on home to Pod pis in his bare feet.

Perhaps the best known of the old farmers was Frederick C. Sanford, a retired Nantucket ship owner, who, like other islanders of means, invested in a farm "out Pol pis way." He used to wear a silk hat, drive a fast horse, and walk about with one hand in a coattail pocket. Many Nantucketers still remember him. His town mansion, on the corner of Broad and Federal streets, is now occupied by Capt.

Killen.

Mr . Sanford's farms included those now owned by a gunning club, and the two belonging to the Nantucket Cranberry Co., known now as the Polpis Club, Beechwood and Norwood, respectively.

It is said that while Mr. Sanford carried on the farm on Swain's Neck they used to turn up shells a foot deep by plough. He said that Spotsor and his Indians had probably put them there; but geologists

12

I

&If:/.~.

Polpis School.

••

the squares with forks and sometimes by hand . The peat, when ready, was piled in long, narrow houses, with tight roofs, and slats on the sides.

Great care was taken to get this fuel well dried before the white frost came; oth"rwise, it would crumble. Peat digging time always followed haying. It was commo 1 to hear the old farmer say, "Got to h u~¡I e and get this haying done, so that we co. 1 get at peating 'fore the frost comes O rt.

11

Some of the houses of the Podpisers, "' ho were, of course, participants in the thriving industries of the settlement, are w orthy of mention. The oldest was George Swain, Sr.'s. This dwelling, which st~v d on the farm now owned by Frank P. Chad wick, was built, it is said, about 1684.

If so, it was two years older than "The Old H'" usc/' in town, the date of which is 1686.

Near this site a cannon ball was found rece n tly by the writer's brother, while pia .ting potatoes. It is reasonable to suppo~e that this was fired here by the British d t.:.ri ng the War of 1812.

The second oldest, called the Meader ho ,se, stood near the Quaise line. A part o f th is was nearly as old as the Jethro Coffin House. It is said that when they took it down they found three floors in the pa'"lor. The bark still remained on the timbeÂĽ:-, and they were faced only where the fl oors rested. This structure and many others were built of the island timber.

The next oldest building known was constructed in 1704, by George Swain, Sr., for his daughter Elizabeth, who married Joshua Sevolle. This old landmark stood directly opposite the present school house.

Love Smith was its last occupant. It was blown down in 1902, after having stood for nearly 200 years.

The cottage now owned by E. J .

Holl ister, on the high bluff in Quaise, o verlooking the upper harbor, contains so me timber, and five one-plank oak d oo rs, from the famous Miriam Coffin house, the cellar hole of which is close by.

"Miria m" (Keziah) Coffin was a shrewd and wealthy ship owner. She had built a handsome town mansion, on what is now Mrs. Maria T. Swain's lawn on Centre Street, and then this country house in Quaise.

From this secluded spot, she was supposed to have a tunnel to the shore, to use in smuggling. As yet, however, no trace of it has been found. History tells us that Miriam is believed to have rendered aid to the British during the Revolution, and that she was tried at Watertown later for smuggling.

Swain House.

We must not forget the Farmers' Institute, or the "Polpis Court House/' as it was sometimes called. This was a oneroom shack, which stood first on the lane almost opposite the school house. It was afterwards moved to a site near the mill pond. A few years ago it was blown down. Here, about 1855, the men folks gathered evenings to talk over the current news, and to brag about their crops, while the old whalers in the village were "gamming" in the "Captains' Room." They continued to meet here until about 1900.

Near this building is a large boulder, which, as the story goes, jumped the fence one night. The truth is that the owner of the neighboring pasture moved his fence after dusk on the other side of the rock to get more land.

Polpis seems very quiet now, when we compare it with the flourishing village of

old Podpis. It is, however, a beautiful place to live in. One can look for miles, from any point of the settlement.

Strangers have begun to realize that this part of the island has great charm. Three summer cottages have been bought by offislanders within the last few years. Now that a permanent road is to be built through to 'Sconset, it is predicted that much of the travel will be lured this way, and that the settlement here will increase.

Thus, this beautiful section of the island has changed from a bustling village to a quiet little settlement, and from "Podpis" to "Polpis." No one who has grown up on a farm, with the sea-scape in front, the brown and green hummocky landscape behind, and the old echoes and traditions all around, would ever "wish to change his place."

Polpis Road.

13

A great salty yarn, this exciting chronicle was first published in the report of the fifty-sixth annual meeting of the Association, July 1949, but may have been written some years earlier. The author would have been ninety years old at the time of publication.

Incidents in the Seafaring Career of Henry F. Coffin fohn B. Coffin

P

ossibly members of my family may be more or less interested in my relating some of the incidents of the seafaring life of my father, Henry F. Coffin, as he told me. Assuming that they would be, I shall jot down some of them which stand out in my memory, as nearly as I can recall hearing them.

Father was born in Nantucket on August 9, 1813. He inherited -as did most boys of that time - and later developed a love for the sea. At that time Nantucket was at its peak as a whaling port, and the ships that were built there went to the various oceans after whales.

Whales were plentiful in the South Atlantic, but the hunt for them soon extended around Cape Horn into the Pacific Ocean, which eventually became the most frequented by the whalers.

Father, at the age of 13 years, much against the wishes of his parents and grandfather Joshua, shipped as a cabin boy aboard the ship Ploughboy for a fiveyear voyage. I suppose few other boys of his age had a more varied and strenuous time during his first sea experience than did Father.

First, let me note, that being ambitious to get an education, especially being so young when he shipped for the voyage, he used to tell how, when his duties permitted, he would read the books the Captain let him have, and also other books he took

14

with him from school. He studied hard, many times by the dim light from the sperm oil lamp, so that he was able to educate himself from school books and from navigational books loaned by Captain Baxter, who took a kindly interest in him and helped him very much.

On this voyage, somewhere in its early months, an incident occurred which we children never grew tired of hearing .

Whales had been sighted by the lookout in the cross-trees, the whaleboats had been lowered, each in charge of an officer, and the chase had begun. The sea was fairly smooth and the boats went after the whales. The ship was in charge of only two or three of the crew, generally the cooper, the cook, and one other as it "lay to." As so often happened, the chase led the boats two or more miles from the ship.

Toward late afternoon, the boat Father was in, under command of the first mate, had come up to and harpooned a particularly ugly whale. After the iron had been in the whale some time and the boat had been towed at a furious pace, the line slackened and the whale dove out of sight.

The mate stood at the bow, lance in hand, ready, when the whale was near enough, to plunge it into him. No whale appeared for a few moments when suddenly up it came, spouting or "blowing" water. So close was he to the boat that the mate hardly had time to give orders to

back water when, with a rush, the whale came at the boat, with mouth open. He struck the boat, almost crushing it, while the crew jumped overboard for their lives.

Father was hit in the calf of the leg by a splinter of wood as he jumped, and a deep gash was made, although he was unaware of it during the excitement. The mate grabbed an oar and he and Father held on to it as the other members of the crew tried to find some piece of wood to help them. By that time it was almost dark; the other three boats had returned to the ship, which "hove around" and headed in the direction in which it was supposed the mate's boat had gone.

Night came on, dark but with a clear sky, and all the while the mate and Father hung on to the oar and swam slowly.

Later in the night they saw the lights of the ship near them and swam toward her.

The lookout finally heard their calls and the ship bore down to them . So near did it come that Father and the mate had to dive under the ship to avoid being hit, and as they came up astern they were seen and a boat was lowered and put out to save them. To his death, many years later, Father carried the scar of that adventure on his leg. Finally, if I remember correctly, the ship returned with a full cargo of oil at the end of three years.

After a short stay at home in Nantucket, Father again shipped for

another voyage around the Horn into the Pacific Ocean on, I believe, the ship Colu mbus. It was on this voyage that another rather exciting incident occurred.

In those days it was necessary for ships to "touch at" some of the various islands or coast ports to get fresh water and food.

The u sual ship's supply of food consisted of ''hard tack"- crackers baked very hard anc. packed in barrels - and salt meat, or "h rse" as it was called, and in order to p n'vent an outbreak of scurvy, caused by tc• · much salt provisions, it was necessary tc ret fresh provisions, particularly fruits. :Jn this voyage the ship was cruising n \ ·r the Sandwich Islands. The ship d · p ped anchor close to one of these ishnds and two boat crews were sent as.·\ore to see what could be found. Father W i.1.S on one of the boats which landed, and fre• h fruits - bananas, yams, etc. - were fot·nd. During the trip ashore a large number of natives, "Kanakas" so-called, ha(l gathered on the shore but had shown no hostility. It was known that they were a cannibal tribe, and close watch was kept by the boat crews as well as from the ship.

Just as the crews were about to "shove off," a rush was made towards them. The majority got to the boats, but two or three, including Father, were caught. He and the others were tied with strips of coconut b a~k, and a "Council of War" was held by th-' cannibals. Evidently it was decided, from preparations made, that they were to b e killed. Stones were brought and pits were dug for the "roasting feast." We can hard ly imagine the feelings that Father a nd the others must have had.

Father finally succeeded in getting one of the "Blacks" to untie him (using his pocket knife as a bribe) and, once free, Father quickly cut the cords of the other two with his sheath knife. They made a quick run to the beach where the boats were nearby, and at the same time the captain of the ship fired into the group of "Kanakas" with a shotgun. The men in the boats pulled close to the shore and Father and his associates swam out and thus were saved. A pretty narrow escape; the present days travelers to Honolulu and Hawaii can hardly realize that such adventures could have happened.

Another time Father was homeward bound from a whaling voyage as a passenger aboard another whaleship . As it approached the New Jersey coast in a storm, it was wrecked, and all hands were thrown on the shore by the surf and saved.

Between the ages of 21 and 25 Father entered the merchant service. Having

qualified as a Master Mariner, he took his first command at the age of about 25 years. I do not recall the name of his first vessel. It may have been the Indiana or the Silas Holmes, in both of which he had an interest as part owner, and commanded for many years. And now, without attempt at chronological order, I shall refer to scattered events which took place in the merchant service.

On one of the voyages in 1856, returning home from a European trip, as the ship approached the South Shoals Lightship, then as now the lightship stationed farthest from land, the signal of distress -the American flag flying upside down in the "after stays" -was sighted.

Father bore down to within hailing distance and learned that the lightship was short of provisions. Right here let me say that, in those years 1850 to 1860, and even as late as 1870, there were no regular tenders for lightships or lighthouses, just occasional ones, so supplies would sometimes run low and they would have to depend largely on help from passing vessels, as in this case. Father sent a liberal supply of food to last until he could report the case on his arrival at New York. The captain of the lightship was very grateful, and he made Henry accept a gift of a nest of baskets made by the crew.

The modern lightship baskets are somewhat dissimilar to the originals, and the government no longer allows their making, I am told.

Of the original set, the largest one is in our home in Rochester, the next size smaller at the Nantucket house, a still smaller one is sometimes used by Mother on her trips to the stores on Nantucket. I think some smaller ones were given away.

Just how long the baskets had been made before given to Father I do not know, but Father got them in about 1856.

[Editor's Note: The Nantucket crew of the lightship New South Shoal, on station approximately twenty-eight miles south of Nantucket Island from January 1856 to March 1892, made many of the finest archetypical Nantucket lightship baskets.

They spent the long, tedious hours tossing at anchor fashioning these intricately woven, sturdy baskets. Those not made as gifts for families and loved ones were sold to island residents who valued the combination of delicacy and durability they embodied.

Tradition has it that a federal inspector who visited the lightship New South Shoal forbade any further "moonlighting" by the crew, making baskets for profit on

government time. In fact, the crew of the lightship that replaced New South Shoal consisted of off-islanders, so the art and tradition of making the baskets followed the veterans of the lightship service to their homes at Nantucket.

The NHA's centennial exhibition of lightship baskets at the Fair Street Museum includes many excellent examples of these unique Nantucket artifacts.]

My mother, as did wives of other captains took occasional voyages with my father. She joined him aboard the ship Indiana on a voyage from New York to New Orleans. On the return trip the ship ran into several gales in the Gulf of Mexico and was driven far off her course to the Caribbean Sea. After a time provisions and fresh water ran low. They were off the sea lanes, partially dismasted, and but for good seamanship would no doubt have become a wreck . Finally they were reduced to a half biscuit a day, the fresh water was all gone save for that caught from an occasional shower. Water from the bridge of the ship, boiled and as much as possible freed from objectionable matter, was used to drink. The one remaining mast had gone "by the board" in a gale, but a "jury mast," a small spar with a small piece of sail, was used to keep the ship in steerageway.

By dead reckoning Father concluded that they were nearing the West Indies.

One day they saw the smoke of a small tugboat, and they were seen; the tugboat bore down to them, took them in tow, and brought them into the harbor of St. Thomas. From there they sent mail to Nantucket saying they were safe. The ship was refitted at St. Thomas and finally reached New York, nearly three months overdue. This was the last voyage Mother took with Father.

Father's vessels were part of what was called the "Red Ball Line" of packets, built with staterooms and accommodations for about thirty passengers.The old style paneling of the cabins of these old clipper ships was of the same splendid pattern as can be seen in many houses at Nantucket.

On one trip from New York to New Orleans when Mother was along, they nearly had serious trouble off the Florida coast. One night one of the crew came aft and asked to see the Captain. The man told of a conspiracy on the part of one particular member of the crew who sought to stir up trouble. The man who was telling of the plan stated that at a certain hour the next evening those of the crew in on the plot were to rush aft, kill the officers, and

15

take possession of the ship. Then they planned to get as much loot as possible, get close to land, and escape in the small boats.

Father called his two mates; they heard the plan detailed. The next day, after arranging all details, the first mate was to go forward, call all hands not then on duty to go aft. The crew filed aft; then, as previously planned, the mate seized the ringleader, who attempted to draw a knife but was knocked down by the mate. The second mate put the handcuffs on the fellow, and Father drew his revolver. He then, addressing the other men, said for all those who were not in the plot to come to one side. All but one quickly stepped forward. The other was also put in irons.

After a plain talk with the crew, they were sent forward again. The ship's course was altered so as to bring her to Key West, which was seen later in the day.

A flag was put upside down in the after shrouds and a boat put out from the wharf.

Father asked for officers to come and take the two mutineers ashore. Later they were sent to prison on a charge of mutiny on the high seas. Otherwise this trip was uneventful.

At the outbreak of the Civil War, Father had just arrived in New York from a voyage. As soon as he could, he lay up the ship and went over to the Brooklyn Navy Yard and enlisted. Father was commissioned an Acting Master (Executive Officer) and ordered to the small bark Roebuck, attached to the North Atlantic Squadron for blockade duty.

He was anchored beyond the outer bar off Charleston, South Carolina, where that small vessel, with two and sometimes three anchors down, rode out the storms of the winter of 1861. Such a task had been thought impossible before because of the dangerous locality, exposed to the gales and the sea from the Cape Hatteras region. I have often heard him tell of seeing the large man-of-war frigates hurry to the shelter of the breakwater in stormy weather while the little bark, with her volunteer crew of about sixty men all told, had to keep her anchorage. More than once it seemed to all on board that she would founder.

On board were several Nantucket men, one a Mr. Folger, second officer in rank to Father. During the chase of a vessel trying to escape the blockade, Mr. Folger was shot in the leg, and because of an inexperienced young doctor on the Roebuck, who amputated the leg, Mr. Folger died.

Father, on leave of absence, brought the

16

remains to Nantucket. Mr. Folger was one of the early victims of the war from Nantucket.

In 1862, Father was transferred, with rank of pilot, to the steamer Neptune, engaged as a transport in carrying troops and supplies to General Butler, then at New Orleans. Before the war, in his frequent trips to New Orleans and South America, Father had made especial study of the various channels in and around the Florida reefs, and found certain places whereby using these channels would shorten the trip. It was because of this knowledge that he was detached from the Roebuck to pilot duty on the Neptune.

After making, if I recall correctly, two trips, he was detached from the Neptune and ordered for duty on another steamer.

This was the Santee, and he was once again Acting Master.

While on this ship, he contracted the dreaded "ship's fever," thought by some to have been what we now call yellow fever. He was taken to the U.S. Hospital at Key West and after being there for several weeks was invalided home to Nantucket on sick leave. He was finally discharged from the service as "sick" after being on active duty for nearly three years.

After the war was over, Father again took up his merchant voyages. One time when he arrived in New York from a trip, he stopped with his sister in Brooklyn.

On a summer Sunday, as he sat reading, an explosion occurred in the basement of the house. The maid had put kerosene on the fire to hurry it along, and she came screaming out into the hallway, enveloped in flames. Father had rushed out by this time and, being in his shirtsleeves, had his clothes ignited by the maid as she dashed by him. He rushed after the girl, kicked open a locked door, grabbed a piece of carpet, and tried to beat out the flames.

Meanwhile, neighbors came to the rescue of both and finally put out the fire. But the poor girl died on the way to the hospital. Father was terribly burned about the chest and arms, and had he inhaled the fumes, would undoubtedly have died.

For weeks he lay in the hospital before he could be moved. Finally he was brought to Nantucket on a stretcher by members of his Masonic lodge. It was a long time before the burns finally healed.

On his left arm he had the most perfectly executed pictures tattooed in colored ink; one was a mermaid and the other the American flag in beautiful colors. The fire burned out nearly all of the flag and left only the tail of the mermaid

showing on the arm. Deep sca rs were there as well on his chest, and his left hand was badly burned. The burns were not entirely healed when he left to take charge of the brig William, bound for New Orleans and points in Florida.

In going aboard the v essel at New York, his arm still in a sling, he slipped and, in falling, struck the hand and the arm. But he was full of grit and would not give up to it. The voyage was made to New Orleans. While there, after treatment from a good surgeon, it seemed wise to have a part of the hand removed. In a few weeks he brought the brig to Pensacola and there, after a survey of the vessel was made, she was condemn ed as old and unseaworthy. On orders from the owners at New York, Father came home to Nantucket for a few d ays. He soon returned to New York and after a while arranged to sell our house at the corner of Centre Street and Acad emy Lane. He moved the family to Brooklyn in November of 1872. I w as then thirteen years old.

Father never again followed the sea.

He lived for some years, and, stricken with apoplexy, died on a visit to Rochester. His life was rounded out at 76 years, full of stirring events.

As a father he was stern but kind, a Christian gentleman who lived as his Master would have wanted. The same sterling traits of character marked his life at sea. Whenever the weather permitted, on Sundays the ship was "hove to" and Father had all hands aft where he conducted a religious service, Bible reading and prayer. Do you wond er that, with such a man - a strict yet just disciplinarian - a crew would re-ship voyage after voyage with him? In case of illness he was as tender as a woman with the sick sailors. If a tooth ached, out it came, as he always had his dental instruments. One time a man hurt his leg badly. Father saw the need for a surgeon, and fort unately, a day or two later, they "fell in" with a British man-of-war which answered the signals set for help. The surgeon came aboard and amputation of the poor fellow's leg was made, Father assisting in the operation. Only one of the various experiences that was liable to happen to any captain.

My wish is that I can be as loyal, as true and tried, as my father. He was a member of Union Lodge, F. & A. M., Nantucket. Both he and mother were members of the Congregational Church at Nantucket.

From the April1957 Proceedings. The author notes: "Fond Memories Are Brought to Life by the Atheneum Restoration."

The Great Hall

by Frances Page 1847, but one year the great fire a nd the destruction of th ' Atheneum, th e re t ilding was comp ic: -~, and the large up: ,, irs hall was again re; r for activity. On Fe! , uary 1, 1847, it was so c scribed: "It is over 19 · et high, arch ed , w proportioned, and w _•, seat comfortabl y m ,. .. than 600 perso c " On February 22 of l 1 ' next year we read i n ·he Inquirer , "A B< a r to pay off our de will be held at the A iwneum during the Fes 1v al of Sheep Sh< r ing. The whole bui.ding will be thrown open, and the evening's The Atheneum. e nte r tainment in the Great Hall will be of such a nature as to please the taste of the most refin ed and cultivated among us."

And the most refined and cultivated, a nd we hope others with aspirations to refin e ment and culture, h eard Ralph Wal do Emerson who came several times to Nantucket, and once between May 4-13, 1847, gave six lectures on Representative Men. These lectures were later published, and became a valued volume in any set of Emerson. Maria Mitchell was an excited member of Emerson's audience, and in Sweeper in the Sky we read that she gave h er cousin, Walter Folger, a spirited acco unt of the lectures.

And, if Nantucketers were thrilled with Emerson, he reciprocated, for we find in his diary of May 23rd, 1847, "The air of Nantucket comes into your face and eyes as if it was glad to see you. The moon comes here as if it was at home, but there is no shade."

He also gave lectures in the Great Hall

I

I

~· <e r

before the fire, and between 1840 and 1850 courses of lectures were given each season, one dollar for the course, by Henry Thoreau, Theodore Parker, Louis Agassiz, Horace Greeley, Wendell Phillips, William Ellery Channing, and John James Audubon, to name a few of the most famous. Interest in cultural activities must have been high at this period as is shown also in the high quality of books that were presented to the library after the fire.

The original Atheneum was built in 1820, and in old files of the Inquirer, later the Inquirer and Mirror, endless activities of the original and restored Atheneum are described.

County Fair Activities In 1836 the Nantucket Agricultural Society was formed, which existed for many years . The cattle show was in a vacant lot at the corner of Federal and Chestnut Streets, and later at the Fair Grounds. Its

first exhibition was in October, 1856, and the Great Hall was used for the display of fruits, fresh and canned, jellies, hand work known as "fancy work," wild flowers, cakes, bread, and doughnuts. George Gardner received $8 as first prize for his collection of vegetables; B. F. Worth was awarded $1 for his fancy potatoes; W. W. Mcintosh received 75 cents for oats and beets, and W. H. H .

Smith 75 cents for hi s squash. School children were in penmanship competitions, and when Grace Brown Gardner was seven years old she won $1.50 as first prize, but before she could collect the prize she was asked to join the Agricultural Society whose dues were one dollar.

In 1870 the fair was held in August, lasting for three days and it was advertised that "articles of needlework in great abundance, objects of virtu, and refreshments of rare excellence, will constantly be exposed for sale ." And speaking of "virtue," there was an early exhibition of statuary in the Great Hall, "to be viewed by ladies and gentlemen separately."

Debates, Dramatics, Concerts The Sherburne Lyceum was apparently a very energetic debating club, and the following were a few of its debates: Resolved, That in educating children, few studies are better than many; Resolved, That the theatre is not beneficial; Resolved, That Nantucket is morally worse as a watering-place than it was in the whaling

17

days; Resolved, That a rate of interest Octagon" from 7:30-8:30, and no ice cream fixed by law is neither beneficial nor right; will be sold during the entertainment. All Resolved, That biographies of great mili- proceeds were to be given to charity.

Many concerts were given by individutary man are injudicious reading for the young. als and school groups. I was told that Dramatics were a strong drawing card, Norman Giffin's rendition of "Orphan especially in the 1880s, and amateur Annie" when he was 10, brought down groups composed of Nantucket residents, the house! Minnie Smith was a favorite as well as theatrical companies from "off," elocutionist who always gave as a demand drew large crowds to the Great Hall. "Jam encore, "Stamp your feet and raise 'em packed to suffocation" the operetta high." This caused thunderous applause.

Pauline, or the Battle of Saratoga was pre- Addie King rendered, with touching sented on March 22, 1888. This was for pathos, her solo, "A Home by the Waves." the benefit of the Relief Association, and In January, 1879, a concert by Miss netted $51.35. On AprilS, 1881, the Pixley Priscilla Morris was postponed by a vioClub presented Among the Breakers. lent storm, but a "hasty notice by the town Tickets were 15 cents, reserved 25 cents, crier brought out a full house for the next on sale at the door. night," and "we need not seek for artists The Momus Club gave numerous abroad when we have such as these native Minstrel Shows which must have been a to our soil." On July 5th, of the same year, bit on the lusty side, and apparently they the Coffin School entertainment netted a had been losing their more sensitive cus- "snug sum." tomers, as they advertised at one time, "Refined, but a bunch of fun," and at Off-Islanders Provided a Variety of another time, "Nothing of low character Entertainment will be enacted." The Energy Club, of Among the professional entertainments which Dr. Will Gardner was an enthusias- from the mainland were Austin and tic member, presented thrillers in the Stone's Variety Show. Mrs. Kenyon recitGreat Hall, three or four times each win- ed the "Face Against the Pane" with tenter. He remembers especially The Stolen der pathos, and "many an eye was Will given in the winter of 1889, when the dimmed with tears by the touching realism of the climax so affected a member earnestness of her presentation." In July, of the audience that he shouted, "Damn 1860, came Pike's Star Troupe in one of the boy, for giving up the will!" Dr. their "classical comical costume concerts Gardner was the boy, and has never for- and Ethiopian Parlor Entertainments," gotten the angry voice of John Chinery. and the General Tom Thumb Company Each play of the Energy Club was given performed in the Great Hall. When the for two nights. The proceeds of first night were divided among the actors, and the second night's take was given to the Helping Hand Relief Association. At this time the hall was heated by two stoves, and the stoking of these was a major activity.

A group of eight girls who met at each other's homes for candy making and fooling around, was encouraged by Rev. John R. Savage, the Unitarian minister, and father of one of the girls, to find a purpose. They formed Our Octagon Club with the motto, "To give is to live, to deny is to die," and they proceeded to do good.

On Nov. 23, 1887, they gave an "ice cream Sale and Entertainment in the Great Hall, doors open at 6:30, admission free and ice cream, 5 and 10 cents." A musical and literary entertainment, including a military drill by the young ladies of "Our The Great Hall after the restoration of 1957.

18

Jubilee Singers came in August, 1879, they announced "Musical culture need not be expected."

An event remembered by m a ny Nantucketers was the annual visit of the Kickapoo Indians whose snake oil li niment was good for all outside ill s, and Sagwa for all internal miseries. We wonder what happened to the Snake Oil and the Sagwa with the passage of the Pure Food and Drug Act. Tents were pitched on the Atheneum lawn at the corner of India and South Water Streets, and entertainment was given in the evening in the Great Hall. Indian barkers ad vertised their medicine and taffy, "A Yankee Doodle Yard, 36 inches for 5 cents."

Old residents remember the Swiss bell ringers, the players on water glasses, Will Carlton reciting his ballads, the celebrated Lucier family, "monarchs of the musical world," the Rev. Mr. Abbott's Shakespearean recital of "Julius Caesar" and "As You Like It," Peter Newton, the "bewildering magician." And , in a day that no one now living can remember, on December 30,1859, came Mrs. Francis T. Young of Boston, "A spiritual medium who will lecture in a trance state (influenced by spirits of a high order).

Admission 15 cents."

Political and Temperance Rallies There were political rallies, at one of which in 1879, "a mere handful of the Republican Party came to the m eeting."

Temperance Rallies were frequent, espe-

was "jam-packed, and a goodly sum realized for the North Church."

The First Telephone Call Celebration

Th WCTU used the Great Hall for a banquet.

ci ' 'ly close to voting days. Lips that Touch L ~1uor Will Never Touch Mine; Where Is My V' ¡ ndering Boy Tonight?; Father, Dear F ¡,lzer, Come Home With Me Now; were f< 0rite solos. Mr. Ernest Tyson, of the hooner, Uriah B.Fisk, addressed the IT ¡eting, giving some personal experie 1 :es, and much good advice to young men. In a true measure of democracy, the liquor dealers on the island were allowed t o sa y a few potent words. In 1886, a Wo m en's Suffrage Convention was addressed by Lucy Stone.

Sl

The Mystic Midgets In talking with many Nantucketers who have been here since they were children, I fin d that one event of their childhood overshadows all others. This was The Mystic Midgets, A Lilliputian Extravaganza w hich was presented on August 2, 1895, with dozens of town children and a few summer visitors. This was for the benefit of the North Church, and was directed by a woman from the mainland who provided scenery and costumes, and put on this "Fairy Spectacle" of wicked gnomes and good fairies.

I learned that our recent fire chief, Archie Cartwright, was Ugli, king of the gnomes, and his mission was to steal the queen of the fairies. For this play the hall

On August 29, 1916, a memorable event took place in the Great Hall. This was the first telephone call over the longest submarine cable.

Although telephone service had been in operation on the island since 1887, it was entirely local. On this famous night, the Hall was decorated with purple and white bunting and American flags, and every seat in the room was wired and equipped with watchcase receivers. Mr. Philip Spalding, president of the Telephone Company, was present and delivered an "impressive" address.

Then the first message ever made to the island came from the General Manager, William R. Driver, Jr., from the toll test board in Boston. This was followed by a three-way conversation between Joseph Brock, president of the Pacific Club speaking from the Captains' Room, William F. Macy from his home in West Medford, and the Hon. William Crapo from his home in New Bedford. Following this conversation the group heard our national anthem over the wire from Boston, and they spontaneously rose and sang. This was a memorable day for Nantucket. Later there was a general demonstration of the toll lines, and many made calls to friends in Massachusetts. It is interesting to note some comparisons in toll calls then and now.

1957 1916 To Philadelphia 2.25 .95 To New York 1.80 .80 1.15 To Washington 2.95 .60 To Boston .95 .95 .so To Providence

Questionable Public Manners Not a New Problem To prove that children, and adults, too, in the good old days exhibited some of the questionable public manners that are deplored today, we find in an old report among the Atheneum records of the 1850s, the following: "The floor and seats are shamefully defiled, not only with nut shells and apple cores, but with the

ingrained stains of the extract of tobacco.

This is a sad example of the inconsistent elements combined in our natures. That persons who can relish, or who have sense enough of what belongs to good taste to pretend to relish, intellectual performances should degrade themselves and offend their associates with such depravity of manners as is indicated by the floor of our lecture room."

A Sad Closing On December 16, 1917, a benefit for the Halifax sufferers was held in the Hall.

Ten days before this, a French ship carrying TNT hit a freighter and blew up a good part of Halifax Harbor and the city.

All the local clergy spoke at this meeting and a fine sum was raised for the sufferers.

This event was one of the last to take place in the Great Hall before it was condemned for use as a public hall. Miss Clara Parker who was librarian for 50 years remembers that the room was increasingly unsafe. With the Kickapoo dancers, the heavy slamming of theatrical trunks, great hunks of the ceiling fell, finally to be replaced by a steel ceiling. It must have been trying to the nerves of any librarian as hundreds of children ran up the old spiral stairways, to an entertainment of the Fair, tooting horns and blowing whistles.

Restoration and Reopening The beautiful Great Hall, after many years as a dusty store room, has been restored to its original state. The stage, which had been there for years was removed, and underneath it was discovered the original stage, which has been saved. The room has been strengthened with pillars, and is again a safe meeting place. The beautiful scroll work has been cleaned and restored, and the Hall is once more a thing of beauty.

It is a quiet place in which to read or meditate, full of memories for many. The lectern from which Emerson, Thoreau, and others spoke stands at the front of the old stage, the blue harbor waters may be seen from the windows, and with a little imagination one can people the old hall again with hundreds of children and men and women who, knowing nothing of radio and television, found it necessary and fun to hear live speakers and actors and to make their own entertainment.

The Great Hall has had a noble and amusing history, and as it will be used again will still find response in the mind and heart of Nantucket.

19

The Law and Lawyers from an Early Period.

The Courts of Nantucket Allen Coffin y recollections of the courts in Nantucket date back to an early period of my life, as I was born near the old courthouse which stood upon the site ... near the Soldier's Monument, now called Monument Square. A tall flagstaff known as the Liberty Pole and a wooden oil-lamp post stood upon the triangular space now enclosed by the monument fence. My grandfather, james Bunker, holding the office of Town Clerk and Constable, was the custodian of the courthouse edifice, which also served as a Town Hall, and the upper floor as a schoolroom where I attended school.

The largest bell upon the island hung in the courthouse belfry, but in my time it was used only as a fire alarm bell, its tone being louder and very unlike the church bells. On the courthouse front was nailed the sign of "Main Street," beneath which designation was faintly preserved the words "State Street," indicating that the name of the street had been changed at some period more remote. Long before the erection of this courthouse and the raising of the Liberty Pole this section of the town was known as the "Old White Bone" because the jaw bone of a whale stood at the corner of Main and Gardner Streets.

During the sittings of the courts the floor was covered with coarse mats which reduced to a minimum the foot-falls of attorneys, jurors and sheriffs and all others "having anything to do with the Honorable the Supreme Court" and the Court of Common Pleas, for Nantucket then, with its vast maritime interests had been awarded a Supreme Court, and causes involving matters of admiralty and the complex business relations incident to the whaling industry and the manufacture and sale of oil and candles and the varied other industries connected therewith constituted the principle business for our courts, and brought to our Island many of the most eminent proctors and attorneys of the Commonwealth - Daniel Webster in the resplendency of his legal fame once appearing and for the fee that induced

M

20

him to come to the Island Court he agreed to argue the whole docket upon either side that his Quaker client chose to designate.

He not only won the cause for which he was primarily secured, but all the other causes which he advocated, and the client who secured the services of the eminent proctor - whose name was Gardner farmed out the services of his attorney to other litigants for enough to cover the expense of his own suit. I do not undertake to vouch for the truth of this story in detail, although I have been credibly informed that Webster often told the story of his coming to Nantucket and arguing the whole docket for one fee, while his Quaker client received the profits.

The earliest causes of litigation which I recall were known as the "sheep cases" which fomented discord and engendered antagonisms between neighbors and friends and sundered families that had previously lived in harmony and peace, so that the common of pasture upon which basis our Island was first peopled has become only a memory and the delightful annual festivity of "sheep shearing" with its unique pastoral scenes mellowed by the plaintive lambkin bleats throughout the vast arena of the shearing pens can never be recalled . Some of the largest owners of the commons owned no sheep while others owned more sheep than commons, and, at the time of this memorable controversy, it was found that the man owning the largest flock of sheep on the Island owned not a single common. The system of stock raising which had contributed to the earliest prosperity of the Island had outlived its adaptability to the conditions of the people, and the wool market is no longer quoted at our afternoon teas.

On the 20th of June, 1795, the Nantucket Bank was robbed. It was the third bank chartered in Massachusetts, two others having previously been chartered at Boston. The case got into the courts as a number of Nantucket citizens were accused of the robbery and as being accessories before the fact. The capital

stock was $40,000 to be paid in three different installments. One installment only had been paid in, but there had been large deposits made, and about $8,000 more than all the stock paid in was lost. The indictment recited the kind of money stolen as follows : 400 pieces of French coined gold ..... $ 1,733 150 Spanish pistoles .......... ....... 550 ...... ............ 1,400 300 English guineas 50 English half guineas 116 20 pieces of coined gold called half Joannes .............. 176 18 pieces of coined gold called quarter Joannes _n $ 4,047 In dollars ........................... 12,007 4430 French crowns ................... 4,873 Total .......... $20,927

This legal controversy lasted many years and produced a most bitter hatred between parties interested. The papers in the case are not recorded here. They may have been taken to Boston and never returned for record. Randall Rice, one of the five persons indicted by the grand jury, was the only one found guilty and his sentence was delayed u ntil the Governor pardoned him . A pam phlet narrative of the robbery, published in 1816, states emphatically that no N antucket man was concerned in the robbery and that the real robbers of the b ank were James Witherly, John Clark, and Seth Johnson. The case has been immortalized

by Nantucket bards.

Of the resident lawyers who mai ntained offices at Nantucket I recall Charles K. Whitman, who was a justice of the peace and of the quorum and held a justice's court. josiah Hussey of like attainments. Charles Bunker, who was afterwards United States Consul at Lahaina, Hawaii: and James M. Bunker, who subsequently became the judge of probate for Nantucket County. My old school teacher, Edward M. Gardner, and Alfred Macy were subsequently admitted to the bar. The former was judge of probate at the time of his death and the latter filled a

place in the Governor's council.

In the retirement of his ample house and lands on the Cliff road Jived Esquire Benjamin Gardner, who had been the clerk of the courts at Nantucket for a number of years. A witness who was to testify in a case stated to the court that he had conscientious scruples about taking an oath and as;,.ed to be allowed to affirm under the p r 1 n s and penalties of perjury, as all Q. kers were permitted to do when testify ' g in court. It was shown to the court, h t 1ever, that the witness had never be re exhibited any scruples about taking an ath, but, on the contrary, was freq t ntly addicted to swearing when there w no occasion for it. The judge directed tf clerk to administer the usual oath to th· witness and the clerk, having conscier ous scruples about compelling a man to wear against his will, said he would ra' 1e r relinquish the office than do so.

Tl judge removed the clerk and appointed George Cobb, who administered the oath, and the witness gave his testimony.

As a boy I was sent to the residence of Esqu ire Benjamin Gardner on an errand.

He was in his garden and the lady of the ho• se suggested my meeting him. I found th old gentleman and made known to hi my errand and he said he would have to .o to the house to get the money. On o way to the house he inquired my n. te and then the name of my father. On Jc . n ing my father's name he seemed p sed and told me that he had known rr father and mother many years before a .· had officiated as the magistrate at tl· .r marriage. He was a genial, courtly g . tleman and, in addition to his legal Ia ··ors, was the popular magistrate of his ti '1·1e for officiating at marriage ceremonies ;.v ;,ere gentlemen of the cloth were not dc.ired, or one of the contracting parties was not within the Friends meeting fold which precluded the Quaker service.

George Cobb, when notified that he had been appointed clerk of the Court of Common Pleas, was at work in a cooper's sho p. He washed his hands, rolled down his shirt sleeves, put on his coat and went to the court house, was sworn in, and co mmenced his career as clerk of the co urts, a position which he held with honor and efficiency for many years, almost to the end of his octogenarian career, besides filling other places of trust conferred upon him by his fellow citizens.

There have been many offices of legal and semi-judicial functions in Nantucket that have been filled by non-professional men who have been able to grasp their stations and perform their duties with

painstaking accuracy and satisfaction.

Our present judge of probate (Thaddeus C. Defriez), now, perhaps, the oldest in service of any of the probate judges, commenced his career upon a whaleship and rose to the command of a ship before entering the domain of the probate jurisprudence. And the register of probate now in service (Henry Riddell), as well as most of his predecessors, commenced his official service without having previously been "learned in the Jaw"; as also the present clerk of the Superior Court, like many of his predecessors, commenced duty without previous legal education. And, in looking back through the history of our local courts and justices and officials, I find many names of persons who had enjoyed no special training for the official duties which they performed with conscientious grace, dignity and fidelity.

At this point I may name a few of the Nantucket people who have acquired a legal education and have become more or Jess distinguished in their practice in the courts of the United States.

Walter Folger, who became a member of Congress from this district, and distinguished as an astronomer, a mechanist and a mathematician, became learned in the law and was made a Judge of the Massachusetts Court of Common Pleas, and resigned his judgeship because its duties were not consistent with his higher ideals of citizenship.

Jacob Barker, remarkable as a financier of national renown, who established the first steamboat line between Nantucket and the Continent, qualified himself as an attorney at Jaw in New York for the purpose of pleading his own cause in the court, not having confidence in any of the lawyers then practicing at the New York Bar, (his cause being an important one) and won his suit to the dismay of his opposing counsel, thus reversing the legal maxim that "the lawyer who manages his own suit has a fool for a client."

Charles J. Folger, Chief Justice of the Supreme Court of Appeals of New York, and Secretary of the U. S. Treasury, was another favored son of Nantucket, learned in the law.

Timothy G. Coffin, the nestor of the legal fraternity of the Bristol County bar for many years, is remembered as a proctor of magnificent attainments. He bequeathed his library to the Coffin School and the Town of Nantucket.

In the primeval government at Nantucket gentlemen were doubtless called to perform legal and municipal functions without a previous educational

or legal preparation therefore. Tristram Coffin was appointed the first Chief Magistrate of the Island by Governor Lovelace of New York, and Thomas Mayhew Chief Magistrate of Martha's Vineyard, in 1671, and the two Chief Magistrates constituted a General Court for the two islands, with appellate jurisdiction over both islands. The records of the General Court were kept at Edgartown and several matters concerning Nantucket are found only with the archives at Edgartown. The several Chief Magistrates of Nantucket appear, from the records, to have exercised judicial functions and to have held courts and rendered decisions upon various matters where 20 pounds in value or Jess were in issue, and of criminal matters where life and limb or banishment was not involved, and might punish offenders so far as "whipping,stocks and pilloring or other public shame" might suffice. And parties not satisfied with the Magistrate's decision might appeal to the General Court next sitting, whether it be at Nantucket or Edgartown. But the matters beyond the jurisdiction of the island courts were heard and determined by the Court of Assizes at New York. Tristram Coffin, Thomas Macy, John Gardner and Richard Gardner, each in turn, exercised judicial as we11 as administrative functions over the island.

The General Court consisting of the Chief Magistrates of Nantucket and Martha's Vineyard, and the four Assistants - two being chosen from each island - not only possessed appe11ate jurisdiction over inferior court decisions of the two islands, but it was empowered with and exercised legislative rights to enact laws for the better government of the jurisdiction, not repugnant to the laws of England. This General Court at its first sitting enacted the first prohibitory liquor law anywhere recorded, and it may be found among the court archives at Edgartown. It prohibited the sale of intoxicating drinks to Indians, the evil of rum drinking having become a serious matter among them at this early period of the island's history . Our ancestors, for the Jove of gain, engaged in the traffic of intoxicating beverages before the enactment of this prohibitive liquor law; and after its enactment, violated its provisions.

Yet the law, then as now, was occasionally enforced, and the illicit article confiscated.

Under date of March 15, 1676, John Gardner complained to Governor Lovelace of New York that a half barrel of rum had been taken from him by Thomas Macy, then Chief Magistrate of Nantucket.

21

Mr. Gardner also represented that the Indians were not pleased with the enforcement of the laws which discriminated against them and that they would fight to maintain their rights. Thomas Macy, two months later under date of May 9, 1676, wrote Governor Lovelace concerning his apprehensions of the Indians if strong drink was permitted to be sold them. He asks the Governor to make an order prohibiting any vessel that shall come into the harbor from selling strong drink to Indians, stating that he believed an order from the Governor of New York would have more force than laws enacted by the local Magistrates. Mr. Macy concludes his representation to the Governor in this strong language: "Concerning the peace we have heretofore enjoyed I cannot imagine it could have been if strong liquor had been sold among the Indians as formerlly [sic]. For my own part I have been to the utmost oppo sed to the trade these 38 years; and I verily believe it has been the only ground for the present ruin to both nations. It has kept the Indians from civility, and they have been drunken and kept all the while like wild bears and wolves in the wilderness."

Peter Folger was Clerk of the Court until removed by Thomas Macy, who appointed his own son-in-law, Wm .

Worth, to be Clerk. Folger was imprisoned for contempt of court. The issues involved went to the Court of Assizes at New York. Macy's term as Chief Magistrate expired, and the little community was in turmoil, the people taking sides upon the legal problems of that period. Tristram Coffin was again called to the Chief Magistracy, and he took the oath of office before his son, Peter Coffin, who was acting as an Assistant Magistrate during the term of Thomas Macy. Tristram Coffin affixed his signature to this oath of office upon the official record book, and it is the only autograph of this Chief Magistrate that I have observed in all the records of the island.

Peter Coffin, the oldest son of Tristram, born at Brixton, County of Devon, England, in 1631, must have acquired a knowledge of the law somewhere. He was reputed to be the richest of the first purchasers of the island. After his permanent removal to New Hampshire and serving some time as Associate Justice of that colony, he was made Chief Justice of the Supreme Court. He died at Exeter, March 21, 1715, although most of his judicial life was passed at Dover. The Reverend Joshua Moody, an independent preacher at Portsmouth, New Hampshire, had been

22

convicted under the Uniformity Act of 1684, and imprisoned thirteen weeks and then dismissed with the admonition to preach no more under penalty.

Peter Coffin was one of the judges who imposed that sentence. For a time afterward Moody preached in Boston, and then came back to Portsmouth. Pastor Moody's version of the affair follows: "The judge of the court was Walter Barefoot, the justices Mr . Fryer, Peter Coffin, Thomas Edgerly, Henry Green and Henry Robey. Overnight four of the six dissented from his imprisonment, but before next morning, Peter Coffin, hectored by Canfield, drew off Robey and Green. Only Mr. Fryer and Edgerly refused to consent, but by the major part he was committed. Not long after, Green repented and made his acknowledgement to the pastor, who frankly forgave him.

Robey was e xcommunicated out of Hampton church for a common drunkard, and died excommunicate, and was by his friends thrown into a hole, near his house, for fear of an arrest of his carcase.

Barefoot fell into a languishing distemper, whereof he died. Coffin was taken by the Indians and his house and mills burnt, himself not slain but dismissed. The Lord give him repentance, though no sign of it has appeared . Psalm ix, 16."

James Coffin, the third son of Tristram, who was also born at Brixton, England, in 1640, two years before the family removed to New England, was the first Judge of Probate for Sherburne in Nantucket.

The earliest court records in the office of the Clerk of the Courts for Nantucket County bear the date of 1721. It is an interesting record of the causes of litigation at that period . The first entry is of a bond filed: Benjamin Quithel, of Dighton, as principal and Ebenezer Pitts, of the same town, as surety, in the sum of sixty pounds for the appearance of the said Quithel to answer to His Majesty's Court for charges against him. Quithel did not appear, and after being called three times, was defaulted.

At the same session of the Court, "Will Sasapana, an Indian, complains against Eben Cain, an Indian, that he lost his coat and twenty-five shillings in money and two silk neck cloths, being taken from him when asleep, and his coat found on the said Eben Cain.

"Eben Cain, being examined, says he got the coat at Ezeky's house; and after a full hearing, it appearing to the Court that Titus, the son of Ezeky, was with Cain, ordered that Titus be sent for and the Court then adjourned till tomorrow at

three o'clock in the afternoon, at which time both Titus and Eben Cain, being severally examined, they endeavored to lay the taking of the coat upon each other; and in the end were both found equally guilty.

Ordered that Titus and Eben Cain shall each of them pay to Will Sasapana four pounds ten shillings, being their part of treble damages - the coat returned, valued at three pounds, to be a part - and shall pay each a fine of twenty shillings to the King, or be whipped not exceeding ten stripes; and Titus shall pay four shillings and sixpence costs of pro secution and stand committed till sente nce be performed."

Tooth Harry and Jo. Bones, Indi ans, were complained of by Thomas Bunker for stealing 8 gallons of rum and for breaking windows in Bunker's house. They were tried and convicted, and this is the judgement of the Court: "The sentence of the Court that Tooth Harry and Jo. Bones shall b e branded in the forehead with the letter B, and shall pay to Thomas Bunker ÂŁ7-7s-6d, and for other Court charges 16s-6d; in the whole ÂŁ8-4s-6d. They were both branded with the letter B according to the sentence."

The earliest books of the Proprietors contain records of the court proceedings anterior to the entries found in court record books. Some of the court proceedings are interesting but not elevating in their moral tone. The aborigines were frequently before the courts charged with petty crimes and misdem eano r s as between themselves and also b etween themselves and the whites. And again the white settlers during the earlier occupation of the island were not always in harmony and accord. They were not exempt from legal friction, and many legal complications arose not especially consistent with the better angels of their nature. Court records furnish a better index of the true character of a people than the Parish records. For it may be remembered that the white population increased to rising seven hundred souls before any religious society was gathered among them, a like parallel among English speaking colonists can nowhere else be found . But, compared with the difficulties which afflicted many New England communities - the oppressive spirit of puritanic laws, the intolerance of religious opinions, the prohibitions concerning female attire, and the Indian warfares - Nantucket was indeed blessed with "plenty's golden smile" and a "refuge of the free."

Vintage Stackpole, this wonderful, nostalgic piece was written

by Nantucket's premier historian when he was curator of Mystic Seaport. It was originally prepared as the text of a lecture with slides and was published in the issue of April1965.

Once Along the Waterfront Edouard A. Stackpole , hat section of the town of N 1ntucket which h' s experienced n'o r e changes t a n any other is t 'C waterfront. In thP three centuries wh ich have c compassed the I â&#x20AC;˘ e of the island s ttlement (called f 1 st Sherburne a 1d since 1795 1\ a ntucket) the p ;rtion embracing the head of the wharves and the wh arves themse lves have undergone a comp lete transformation, not once but se v eral times.

r-

With the moving Bird's eye view of Nantucket looking southwest, 1881. of the homestead settlement's center from the Hummock into three other large wharves.

Because this paper has to do with what Pond area to the Great Harbor, the town of Sherburne soon became that part which I saw along the waterfront in my boyhood, sprawled down the gentle slopes of the as well as to what history tells us, I think Wesco hills to the shore. Straight Wharf, it proper to begin with my earliest recolextending into the harbor, became the first lection. Our house was on Mill Hill and major pier, probably of logs and boulders, from the Hill itself, seated on the long with sand fill, and to State Street, leading shaft leading to the Mill top, I looked out to this wharf, all the original streets con- over the houses below to get my first nected and the various house lots (Wesco, glimpse of the blue waters of the harbor Fish Lots, Bocachico) were laid out close at just beyond the last range of the roof-tops.

Not until years later did I appreciate hand to the landing places which grew

what constituted my first experiences at the wharves and their approaches. A half century ago, Washington Street from Francis Street to Commercial Wharf, had a variety of shanties and small shelters bordering the harbor front. Some of the fishermen lived in these tiny places; others were mostly scallop shanties. I re member John Howard Dunham, Charles Folger, Henry Main, Frank Count ee, and Luther Rose as residents. There were also the scalloping shanties of Joe Araujo, Manuel Ray and Timothy Dunham.

At the head of Commercial Wharf, in the present Legion Hall; there was a considerable storage of barrels and nets.

Close at hand Clarence Ramsdell had his stable with his collection of wagons and "low-beds," while Joe Fernandez' little store was situated under the shadows of the Fernandez house. Across the street was the home of Peter Viera and his fine family . I do not recall the names of those

23

Old South Wharf, c. 1900. living in a small dwelling near at hand.

Commercial Wharf was the scene of considerable activity when the little steamer Petrel came in with a load of fish. How vivid are those scenes, especially seeing Jim Everett Chapel who, though crippled, was one of the strongest men on the Island, Arthur Barrett, Bill Bartlett, Charlie Vincent, and "Cap'n" Manter. In contrast to the alternate busy times and peaceful times at this wharf, I remember the horror of the fire which destroyed the Barnes boat-house at wharf's end and the loss of life. A Nantucket man named Ray leaped from the roof of the burning structure, plunging into the water and thus saving himself from the holocaust. My playmate, Tony Souza, and I ran to the scene from Washington Street and were among the first on the wharf - little realizing what we were witnessing.

History reveals how much the waterfront was changed by a series of fires, those taking place in 1838 and 1846 being the great destroyers. That of 1846 not only burnt all over the wharves, devouring the lofts, chandleries, cooperages and oil storehouses but came close to leveling the entire town. The exteriors of several brick structures were left standing in the ruins with their interiors burned out. These included the present Town Building [Current NHA office was site of town offices until 1968], the Pacific Club and the Citizens Bank. All interiors were restored.

But to gain an idea of what the waterfront looked like before this Great Fire of 1846 there are two wood engravings one by Tanner, of the period of 1810, and

24

the other of 1835 from J.W. Barber's "Historical Collections" - which show the five major wharves, warehouses and ropewalks which once featured the scene.

These were all wiped out by the 1846 fire.

As an illustration of the manner in which the waterfront was rebuilt, there is a "Bird's Eye View" of the town, issued in 1881, which has some remarkable detail as it concerns the re-building here, as well as demonstrating the ability of the town to recover from its post Civil War slump by becoming a summer resort.

Photography has aided in tracing the story of the waterfront since 1860. The early photographers, such as Summerhays and Freeman, succeeded by Wyer, Platt and Boyer, have left excellent studies, while Editor Harry B. Turner of the Inquirer and Mirror was keenly aware of the value of photos for preserving local history. An early view of Straight Wharf, showing the whaleship Narragansett and some wood sloops; panoramic views from the South Tower, and pictures taken of scenes between the wharves have added much to our store of knowledge.

We can place the exact date of a view from the tower in 1871, showing two steamers at the wharves; another in 1874, providing a classic picture of Steamboat Wharf with the steamers Island Home and River Queen; another, with the schooners Winchester and Oakes Ames tied up along side each other, with a catboat fleet under their bowsprits, offers an amazing glimpse into the past.

The catboats in themselves represent a story of much fascination. With the emer-

gence of Nantucket as a favorite "watering place" the bluefishing parties became a feature. Sailing down to Great Point Rip with the catboats was a sport enjoyed by many visitors. But it was in the skippers of these craft that we find" the unu su al story, as many of these owner-skip pers were formerly captains of square-rigged whaleships and merchantmen, oth ers would be mates or pilots, others fishermen of ancient visage. For years the catboats were moored in several favorite basins, such as that in front of the Adams building at Steamboat Wharf, or along Old North Wharf, in Still Dock, and on the basins between Straight Wharf, Old South and Commercial wharves.

There are many noted craft - each could give its quota of yarns- but among the best known were the Cleopatra, with the Burgess family, Captain Watson the father and George, Senior, the so n, both being pilots. At one time this carried a sail cut and colored like a huge American flag.

As the Cleopatra was the largest catboat of her time, it made a unique and colorful appearance. Other catboats whose skippers were known for their skill were the Avilda, Timothy Dunham; Lucille, Captain Benjamin Pease and Captain Patr ick Conway; Inez, Captain Perry Win slo w; Crusader, Captain William Burchell; Fleetwing, Captain Joseph Win slow; Horatio, Captain Thomas Barrally; an d Tern, Captain Joseph Enos.

As for the men who were identifi ed with the waterfront, in their combined stories they would make a book-length article. Certain places where they would rendezvous became places of great excitement to a small boy. I think of a sundrenched porch on the front of the tiny "Bon Ton Fish Market," on Easy Street, over which John Taber presided. Here would sit Frank Meiggs with his beard; Henry Main, with his red hair and bright, blue eyes, snapping out a story between teeth clenched on the stem of a pipe; Clint Orpin, younger than the regulars here, but a veteran fisherman, and Captain Henry Folger, who had been a coasting skipper and whose resonant voice still returns over the years.

As for the Old North itself, there was the machine shop of John Cross, the son of a Church of England minister, who had run away to the sea at thirteen and roamed around the world on merchant ships. In those days, the scallop and quahaug boats were installing engines, and the Lathrop one-cylinder motor was a popular choice. John Cross had his own group of habitants and many a story not

intended for publication was recounted in the shop. The boat shop of William Chase stood close by and I remember the float, with its variety of pulling boats for hire.

Many of these boats were built by Mr. Chase who also had the "Sailor Boy" weathervanes on display at the wharf side.

Captain Conway formerly conducted a similar establishment of boat rentals close by but that was before I was old enough to go there.

Close at hand was the mooring place for many catboats. I recall Myron Coffin and the Inez. Of particular recollection is the esteem in which he was held by all small boys, as he was understanding and kind and not as inclined to frighten them when they were wandering around the waterfront and got into mischief.

My interest in Old North Wharf was keen because of some ancestral family connection, the Pinkhams having at one time used it as the headquarters for a line of packets running to Norfolk, Baltimore, and occasionally to New Orleans. Years later, one of their warehouses was taken over by Barzillai Burdett, a boat builder, and the proprietor of a boat service to the bathing beach, with the catboat Dauntless being as well known as any in the fleet during the 1880's and 90's. Today, the Andrews building next door, is the only surviving business on this wharf which reflects the old-time scene.

A marked characteristic of those days were the myriad of walks, ways or paths leading from one wharf to the other across the intervening land.

Straight Wharf was called Killen's Wharf, and between this and Old North was Cross Wharf, facing the dock between these two wharves. Here, in the winter time, schooners would tie up for the season and it was one of the great thrills of Nantucket boyhood to visit the shipkeepers, snug in their warm cabins aboard the schooners.

Along the southern line of Straight Wharf were a row of scallop shan ties. Here, Steve Ryder, the Miller Brothers, Tony and Frank, and Captain Arthur Tunning among the oth- Old South Wharf,

ers, brought their scallops for opening by the various "openers." The combination of young and old in this category made for interesting afternoons and evenings and much of the local lore of the waterfront was freely passed on by the oldsters aided and embellished by the several lookers-on who spent the evening going from one shanty to the other.

The same scene held true along the Old South Wharf, where the majority of the scallop shan ties were located. These scenes are as vivid today as if they recently took place: the small stove mounted high in the center of the room; the variety of oil lamps throwing a glow of yellow light over all, bringing out the dark shadows cast by the gear stowed away overhead; the "openers" hunched on stools over the benches piled high with scallops; the smell of pipe-smoke and chewing tobacco, and, most important of all, the voices of the men themselves - most of whom have long since departed. No more colorful an experience than to be among the most youthful of those who participated.

Before World War I, the summer days along the waterfront were marked by the regularly scheduled runs of the little railroad from Steamboat Wharf to Siasconset.

The little locomotive, with its coaches chugging slowly along Easy Street across

into Candle Street, thence to Washington Street and the Goose Pond crossing of Orange Street, made a familiar sight. But, in retrospect, it was as much the sound of its bell as any other factor which recalls to mind the picture. Photographs help not only to remind but to pinpoint dates. One of the classic "shots" of 1915 shows the little railroad in the foreground and, looking out to the area between Steamboat and Old North wharves, a large fleet of fishing schooners in the background, in port due to a storm, and in the foreground some of the catboats and other party boats of the period, plus the scallopers, and quahaugers.

To those who frequented the Old South Wharf in the pre-World War I days it was known as Swain's Wharf. Here were a lumber yard, coal pockets, grain storage warehouse, and ice plant - and fishing shanties of varied size. In those days, the quahaug beds in Nantucket Sound had only recently been discovered by Captain Sam Jackson, and boats from other ports were coming to Nantucket to partake of the rich harvest. These days, just before the outbreak of World War I, were full of excitement. The quahaugs came into port in great quantity, with the buyers and shippers busy on every wharf. Edmund Z. Ryder on Steamboat Wharf; Tom Keane and Harry Studley on Old South, as well

south side, looking east.

25

as Nickerson & Perry on . - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - , Lang for the Island Service Old North Wharf kept their Company, and commanded warehouses busy.

by Captain Bishop, th e There was a prolonged Nantisco carried coal from freeze-up during the winter Perth Amboy to Nantucket of 1917 and a number of ice for several years. Ra lph boats were constructed for Bishop, the Captain' s son, sailing over the harbor ice. was a left handed pitcher on Peter Schaper of the the baseball team o f the Ebenezer and Samuel R. young "Crescents" and on Burchell of the Crusader spring afternoons we would had boats propelled by cat"play pass" along the big boat sails. I remember schooner at the wharf. watching the men eeling Perhaps the most unusual through the holes in the ice cargo ever carri ed out of off Commercial Wharf, and Nantucket for a m ainland of Joe Fisher and Charlie port was taken out by the Brown Cathcart (later Nantisco in 1921 - a cargo of neighbors on Union Street) coconut oil. Th e steamer jabbing down with their Gaelic Prince, stranded on the long-handled eel spears shoal off the east end of the and bringing up the thrashIsland, was forced to pump ing bodies of the black eels overboard most of its cargo that made many a tasty of liquid coconut oil. Upon dish for families of the fishstriking the water the oil conermen. gealed and, like huge cakes While my association of ice, floated a s h ore and with the catboat fleets does islanders gathered it in by not go back far enough to wagon load and b oat load include the veteran skipand brought it to the Nantisco pers, I do recall their names for shipping to the Colgate as being brought up in Company in New Yo rk . many a discussion. The Many a thrifty hou sewife remarkable part about took advantage of the opporthese captains is in respect tunity to make soap fro m the to their having been comoil, and probably the greatest manders of square-riggers quantity of soap ever made and schooners during their on Nantucket at one t im e active years. These catboat was produced in this period. owners and skippers The improvements to Old included Captain Alden South Wharf; the regular Wharf area and catboats.

Adams with his famous L. repairs at Steamboat Wharf Roberta; Captain Perry Winslow in the they never were replaced. and the recent restorations on Straight But there is one survivor of that won- Wharf have almost completely changed White Cloud; Captain Joseph Winslow in the Emily; Captain Barzillai Luce in the drous fleet - the Andrews' catboat much of the old-time view. With the comDionis; Captain Benjamin Pease in the Wonoma, now in her 65th year. Through ing of oil as a successor to coal for heating, Lucille, later commanded by Captain the years, her employment as a scalloper the old coal packets disappeared. The Patrick Conway, Captain Watson Burgess, has kept her a familiar part of the wharf Charles C. Crosby Wharf (between succeeded by his son George Burgess in scene at Island Service. While no longer Commercial and Old South Wharf) was the Cleopatra; Captain Benjamin Morris in under sail, she continues to represent a absorbed by the public utilities company, the Priscilla; Captain David B. Andrews in fleet which made its own local marine his- and the little marine railway here was the Mischief; and Captain Charles Smalley tory. The story of the Nantucket catboats filled in and the site obliterated. What in the Lillian (later commanded by Arthur and their skippers would make a volume were once brick warehouses at the W. Jones and Charles I3lount); and in itself. wharves have now come into other uses, And no mention of Island Service and blacksmiths shops, such as Parker's, Captain Whitford Joy, whom I do rememWharf (Old South) would be complete Winslow's, Warren's, and 'Quille Cormie's ber, and many others.

It is difficult to imagine such a group of without mention of the three-masted have now all disappeared. shipmasters; they were unique in the his- schooner Nantisco . While old photographs But the old scene still lingers in the tory of sports fishermen, and possibly showing the packet schooners W.T. Boggs, memory of many who were once boys only Nantucket could boast of such a Onward, W.O. Nettleton and Island City are along the waterfront; rowing, sailing, remarkable array. But, like the boats they extant, the Nantisco was the last of the swimming, working and playing in and sailed, these men quietly disappeared Nantucket-owned schooners to have her around the waterside which can never from the waterfront scene, and naturally home port here. Purchased by Henry come again.

26

This delightful reminiscence first appeared in the October 1960 issue of Proceedings.

Nantucket Surreys Margaret Fawcett Barnes

Surrey at Hummock Pond. urreys, with or without fringe, and with or without tops, were in use on S this Island as long ago as the 1870s and 1880s, and continued to be the chief mode of pleasurable transportation until the 1920s, when the motor car began to take over.

Nantucket ladies went shopping in a horse-drawn surrey, they paid calls in them, and families went on picnics and were met at the boat by them. To drive from Siasconset or Madaket, or any of the outlying districts, to Town in a surrey, over rutted roads, winding across the low moorland, at an ambling gait, was an adventure to a youngster, and a restful, enjoyable experience if you were older.

And if you were lucky enough to induce Jimmie Coffin, in 'Sconset, to take you on an afternoon jaunt in his surrey, over secluded roads, where he knew the name and variety of every wildflower, it was a treat not ever forgotten. Sometimes the road could be washed out and the surrey would veer and haul like a schooner under sail in a high wind, but invariably the careful maneuvering of the horse and

carriage by the driver would bring you on an even keel, with no wheels or shafts broken.

These surreys, though light in weight, were expertly built by the best carriage makers, who made them especially sturdy and easy to handle. They used carefully

selected wood, black or sour gum for the hubs of the wheels, oak or ash for the spokes, and beech or fresh ash for axles.

Also, their design fitted admirably into the life of the past era. Ladies in long ruffled skirts found it not too difficult to climb in and out of the comfortably upholstered seats, and there was room to raise a parasol on a sunny day when slanting rays might otherwise have tanned a perfect pink and white complexion. And for rainy days, leather flaps unrolled from the top, snapping in place, to keep rain from sides and back. Sometimes even the front seat had a covering, which encased the occupants completely, with only an opening for the reins and an isinglass window, especially appreciated on a rainy night when the boat was late and the long, hour and a quarter drive to 'Sconset could be a wet one.

At times, as many as sixteen surreys or more would be waiting to meet the boat on Steamboat Wharf. Once your favorite driver was found, you and your luggage were lifted into the "two-seater" (as they were sometimes called) and you would be drawn through the quiet streets to the accompaniment of the klomp-klop of the

Carriages and train at Steamboat Wharf, c. 1915.

27

horse's hooves. Even the well-remembered smell of a surrey, particularly on a damp day when the felt upholstery and the leather fittings produced a pungent odor, brings back a yearning for those genial times. And there is an anecdote about Captain Billy Baxter, noted for his salty humor, who carried the mail to Siasconset in a surrey. He would often take passengers along, and was prone to spot a bridal couple and inveigle them into his carriage, pretending all during the drive he was very deaf. When they finally reached their distant destination, he would reveal that he hadn't been so deaf 1-...:::==!!:;:;;;;;::==~--¡ after all, which sometimes left the bride blushing.

Although surreys were mostly "two-seaters" holding four apeopl~ and driver,three therepassengers were also l~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ some known as "three- Surrey waiting at the Pacific Club. seaters," imposing in length, drawn by two horses and carrying nine and which by now is one of the oldest con- building now known as The Str aig ht people. These were used for gala occa- tinuous businesses of the Town. They had Wharf Theatre, as one of their carriage sions, like clam-bakes or trips between as many as twenty horses at one time, houses. "W. H. H . Smith's Livery Stable" Nantucket and 'Sconset for special events, with two barns, one back of the present was located at head of Steamboat Wharf, such as golf or tennis tournaments or pub- Monument Store and another on the Cliff, at the present location of the Ra ilway lic entertainments. at the site of the present garage. Other Express Office. There was also Clinton Of the several livery s tables in well-known livery stables were "Covill Folger and others on the Island who Nantucket Town, one of the best known and Pease" and "John Ayers." Later there would have a surrey and horse for hire . was "J. H. Wood and Son," owned by the was "Pease and Ayers," who, before they One of these was Tom Hoy, who in the same family who run a Taxi Service today, went out of business, used part of the early nineteen hundreds could be found every morning at nine-thirty in front of the William Barnes home on Orange Street, waiting to take the family or their friends on morning errands.

Bringing surreys up-to-date, two of those remaining on the Isla nd were used most effectively in the Main Street Fete last summer. One has been bought by the Hi storical Association, to be treasur ed for future generations. Th e oth er is owned by Francis Holdgate and was driven for hire about the Town this summer by his daughter Suzie.

Presumably the derivation of the word "surrey," used for the name of a carriage, came from the name of the county in England . However, it has been mainly used as such in the United States, and the vehicle was popularized almost exclusively in this country.

On the Polpis Road, 1902.

28

With only a few important exceptions, most of the items described in Mr. Turner's 1916 contribution to the Association's twentysecond annual meeting remain among the missing.

Wouldn't it be wonderful if a reader recognized one or more of them and contributed them to our collections?

Vanished Treasures Harry B. Turner

H

ad the Nantucket Historical Association been born forty years earlier than it was, probably many valuable Nantucket relics, which cannot now be located, would have been in its collection. Without a doubt more relics of real historic value have been lost beyond recall than have been preserved, simply through thoughtless destruction or sale by parties who did not appreciate their real value, or because, in the change of time, they looked upon them as old-fashioned and fit only for the dump or for the collector.

Each year the Historical Association learns of some relic which has been lost, which ought to have become a part of its collection, even as a tiny link in the great chain which makes the history of Nantucket.

And in this direction -with the hope that some of the missing articles may yet appear - I will mention a few interesting relics which were known to be in existence not a great many years ago, but which cannot now be found.

Perhaps among the most valuable reminders of the past which have been lost are some of the real interesting log books.

One of these missing ones is that of the ship Henry Astor, which sailed from Nantucket in 1840. The Henry Astor had a voyage which was replete with excitement from start to finish. Two boats were smashed by whales, there was a mutiny on board followed by a court martial and the placing of men in irons. Shortly after, the ship was boarded by cannibals and the crew fought the invaders off. Then came a severe storm during which the ship sprang a leak. The captain, Seth Pinkham, died at Pernambuco; the mate, Henry Smith, was killed by a whale; and the ves-

sel was finally brought home by Henry Colesworthy. The ship was gone four years, yet in spite of her eventful voyage, so carefully had she been navigated that when she made 13lock Island on the homeward passage she was only twelve miles off her course by dead reckoning. The log book recorded speaking a ship only two days out from New York, which was off her course and desired to be set aright by the Nantucket ship that had been gone four years and was just nearing home.

The book was available in the early nineties, but one day was loaned to Charles Henry Webb who wanted to put the facts of this exciting voyage into story form. Mr. Webb died a few months later and the log book of the Henry Astor simply disappeared.

Doubtless every Nantucket family has discarded or destroyed articles of historic value, which in after years has brought genuine regret. I clearly recall a huge chopping block belonging to my grandfather which was a big tree stump he had dug up out of one of the peat swamps to the west of the town. For years it stood at the rear of the house on West Chester Street, and I recall that it was a very tough piece of wood, which I was told was white oak. It stood about three feet high and was eighteen or twenty inches in diameter at the top. Undoubtedly it was a piece of one of the big trees which tradition tells us once grew on this island. Had that tree stump, or one of the many others which are said to have been found in the peat swamp, been preserved to this day, it would probably have convinced the skeptics that Nantucket actually was heavily wooded at one time.

At the first fair held by the Nantucket Agricultural Society in 1856 a monument of spermaceti, in imitation of the Bunker Hill Monument, was exhibited. It was as white as snow and was made in the candle factory of Had wen and Barney. It was not preserved. Neither was the statue of Hercules, which had been carved from a hickory log by a Nantucket man, and was said to be a truly remarkable piece of workmanship. Hercules and Bunker Hill, both in miniature, were exhibited in 1856 in the same room with the "Dauphin," but of the trio the "Dauphin" alone remains.

The spermaceti monument disappeared in 1859, but Hercules lived six years longer, the last mention of the hickory log carving being in 1865.

The story of Peter Paddack's whale iron is already familiar to some. Captain Peter Paddack was in command of the ship Lion, which sailed from Nantucket in 1802. Out in the Pacific Ocean he struck a whale, but the whale escaped, taking the iron away with him. One day thirteen years later, however, when Captain Paddack was again out in the Pacific, this time in command of the Lady Adams, he struck and captured a whale, and when the crew were cutting in one of them came across the head of a whale iron. It was the same iron which Captain Paddack had hurled into the whale thirteen years previous, and the captain was certainly overjoyed to meet the whale again. He was positive it was his long lost iron, for there were his initials, "P.P." stamped into it. That he should strike the same whale after a lapse of thirteen years was something more than a coincidence to Captain Paddack, and as long as he lived he preserved the iron as

29

one of his most interesting relics. When he 365 staves in it, besides the bung stave, daughter of Thomas Mayhew, and her retired from the sea and removed to and each head was composed of forty-five husband was the grandson of the first Kennebeck, Maine, to reside, the iron pieces. As an example of the skill of the Peter Folger.

The first easy chair made on the island went with him, but his house caught fire Nantucket coopers of a century ago, it was existed as late as 1858, then in the possesand burned down and the iron was lost in a gem.

Another oddity was a small cask made sion of Mrs. Peggy Riddell, yet it is very the ruins. Captain Paddack was reluctant to give it up, however; so hired a gang of at sea by a cooper on ship Peruvian. Each doubtful if any of Peggy's d esce nd ants men to search through the ashes, and the end was in the form of an ellipse. The even heard of it.

One other important reli c seem s to iron was finally located, much to his grati- longest diameter of the two ends would fication. A year or so later the captain cross each other at right angles, while the have been lost, the ancie nt co ffee p ot returned to Nantucket, and the iron was bung measurement would form a circle, which belonged to Abiah Fo lg er, the mother of Benjamin exhibited upon differFrankl in . It was 1 ent occasions as late as 1 :::~r~~~:1:. ·:~~~~~·-~:;~, ~~:\ 1 ~'~/,~:~·~~,;~~l,!~:~ \\,:;."'~~:~· .:,:t:.n:.:.: !~f :.','~b t ',·,~ presented to her by h·nln:~IIUbdurf•r-..,( ,,iJal iu ~o: i_rupil•uwnt .. 111 that ,,,w·,,.,rt 1860, when it left \ II l!lkrt•-,1111~ and IIUt llt'utw all('l'lfr,lt' hf a l••~l J,arpu•fll ,J,. ralll'' her fa th e r, Peter Nantucket in the posl1n\\ 11 ( 'nphatn Padd.'M k Ill lhf)-! .. tru(·k a wlaal•·. "'ht.-11 l"'l("';ll>f'~l "' t~ hl'll and •n l)'oo. l.i. tlnrlt-t·n .n·ar... latf·r. tlw t•aptau kill• I l'•~ -nmf' Folger, at the time session of Captain '' h.d1· and rt'1'0Ycrt"11 Jtj,.. lu .. t Wt"<ll~lll t\ ,,Jialt•r j.., ''lpplit'fl ''ith fnun four to ,.,,.,, wlu,l•·houh, thr• (•r of h er ma rriage to Paddack's grandson. ,,hith art• u ... uall:o· on tlw port .,idt·, un tlw !>larl .. ,,,nl !'oj,J,. w::ar th~ .. tt-ru. fht• n• .. t <~n· un dt'f·k.; il \\a .. tlw itnpru\t·d •·url,!o ~~''Ti' James Fra nklin in Peleg Ray, who lived at l"•lh o·wl ... -.o a~ tu um"-•• •• da-.h at till' \dud•· tllld lht•u lw .Lhl<' ln Till' fluor \\11.., \'(·ry flat ""a ''' t·nal,\i' tlw hoat 1697.

Mrs. Samuel up North Shore in a •hwlf.{*' a .:wltlt·u rw,n·nw•tl•,r tlw "h·lt· ft>d hmf.{. \\a .. •·quippt·d wilb nn•·l·•ll~ B. Sw ain h ad th is house which stood just oar... , lind u ..ail ''hid1 ut1'a itm:tllv ..umdinw .. rt ..,orlt·d In iu or1kr t11 U\nid 1u1....! coffee pot in 1866 above the top of the hill, ~•l two ,_,,q•n-fnol J,nrpoon-. pbl'f"fl r•·.,d~· n·urdv fa .. tt·ruod to tlwm , nwl to thi.; \\ar and t h a t year was totally blind during rr flw hout ''''~ lo\\t'fl'•l. ,\ liw· of h\n or tllft'i' h 111 placed it on exhibi,., of t!H' lw.. t lll•llllla 1\\o-third ... uf Ull indt 111 tli.lllll't .. r, the later years of his n ttu .. ilt• .. tn·uJ,.:th of ,,!,nut tlarn• tnth. It r.m rrutu ttu~ tion at the county t truttJ,:h a du,("k t•r j.!tuu\"t' in tit,. J,.,,, h• 111 a tit· life . He had been an twar J,,., and llwn )('II:Jih\\j..,,. ;tlon:.: lh• • hual In tht• !tluul fair. active man and pospn~l itt tlu• -.1!-rn: urn1tll.! \\hi··h it 111aol•• u turu ur ard ht tlu· litw tuh 1war tlw tnh oar .. lllan J•,.

Th e sa m e year sessed a remarkable ft•d of litw < 1il(_•ol iu thi-. tuh. \\tlh fnttli ' in tlu· nulrlliL \\"hl'll Mr s.

William memory, and he also , il \\u:o. staitllo r•-...t·mhlt• nw '··:!~l'flw;ul Worth had in her had in his possession \ lint· w"., pos s e ss ion an many very interesting antiqu e p i tcher and valuable relics.

• ••n or• \ which bore on one Among them was a r t IIO't II llf 11 side the picture of a whale's tooth upon tfrono tr110.

I• t•&rr•l•' machine supposed which had been carved to be grind ing old the Lord's Prayer. The base of the tooth was women into young mounted on pearl, the girls.

Th e old ladies were p ic whole being fashioned Peter Paddack's harpoon iron was donated to the Nantucket Historical Association in 1985. on a Nantucket whaleMr. Lawrence D. Stewart of Ossining, New York, a direct descendant of Paddack, gave us this tured going i nto ship . Where this tooth the hopper at o ne artifact, now on display in the Whaling Museum. w e nt will probably end and were comnever be known, but it ing out fresh and is fair to presume that his daughter, who and it was impossible for any two staves new at the other. According to the illuslived in the old house a few years after his to be alike. The last time it was on exhibi- tration upon the pitcher, the rush of old death, sold it, as she did many other relics tion, A. B. Whipple, then principal of the ladies for a chance at the machine was High School, endeavored to ascertain its tremendous. when the summer folks came after them.

A rather eccentric individual named capacity by every conceivable rule of In 1855 Maria Mitchell executed an oil Pitman Moore, on seeing numerous mod- mathematics, but he finally gave it up in painting of a Nantucket scene for which els of whaleships made by the men at sea, despair. Both of these casks have disap- she was awarded a two dollar prize at the in 1850 conceived the plan of making a peared. first county fair held on the island . This There was once a bridal shoe, made in painting was preserved many years, and if full-rigged ship according to his own ideas. He built it, rigged it, and painted it 1737, which was presented by a Nantucket it could be found and identified today alone, and when the task was done he lover to his lady friend, together with a would probably be of considerable comtook full credit for it, labeling the craft "A pair of garters, bearing the inscription mercial as well as historical value.

Notion of My Own." One of the island "Let Love Abide." As a relic of old time The silver spoon used by the first white newspapers referred to his work as a very Nantucket courtship these articles would woman on the island was preserved and ingenious specimen - stating that such certainly be of interest, but they, like hun- cherished as late as 1870, but whether it is an example of naval architecture had dreds of other things, have been swept still in existence is not known. There are never been seen since Noah navigated the away. numerous silver spoons in our collection, As late as 1863 a cradle quilt which had but none which can be identified as this ark.

Deacon Gruber, who was an expert been made in 1729 by Sarah, the first wife particular one, and it is a safe guess that it cooper, in 1811 made a tiny cask which of Abisha Folger, who spun the material was sold either as a curio or for the silver was only three inches in diameter at the and wove the cloth of which it was made, it contained. heads and held just a quart. There were was in existence. Sarah was the grandReuben G. Folger once carved a very •

.

OI<Jtl-,. H

hl\1

, olhll"lli

)Url;rt• 0 U

\(

HI

t

lrHII,

"'"'II'

1

Ill\('

:11111

1 .lllfM

\\ai

\\f'f•'

\\ll"'

1•

..

;l 11111

tf\\

\\t'fi'

\\1\!\

I 1 I hf< t1 I lotlntJII"·" )\ I• 1l I 11 ~ a'll It

30

I>

handsome dog out of a tree stump which was found imbedded in a peat swamp near Polpis, gilding it and placing it on exhibition with considerable pride.

Possibly this dog joined the carving of Hercules, for it, too, disappeared years ago.

Mrs. Lucy Mitchell, who lived up at the head of Gay Street, saved the feathers shed by her pet canary and made them into a vase of flowers, which was said to be a thing of great beauty. Capt. Henry Cleveland once fashioned a curious specimen of plaster work, representing an old woman asleep on a street corner while a young scamp was transferring the contents of her basket to his hat. Although not exactly to be classified as historic relics, these articles would nevertheless have been interesting to future generations.

Whatever relics of the whaling and commercial activities of Nantucket may have been lost, however, it is certain that enough have been preserved to bring the Historical Association a collection to be proud of. But there is one branch of the island's history which is obscure as far as relics go, and that is the Nantucket Indians. To be sure hundreds - perhaps thousands - of arrowheads have been found among the sands and on the moors, but, aside from those, mementos of the Indians are very rare, and this collection does not even include a tomahawk. Not that no tomahawk has ever been found on the island, but because the finders of the few specimens which have been unearthed have not had historic appreciation enough to have them preserved in the collection of the Nantucket Historical Association.

One day in the summer of 1887 four boys who were "tending" the north herd just west of Washing Pond carne across a depression in the ground that excited their curiosity. Boy fashion, they commenced digging with some pieces of board, and only about a foot below the surface they discovered some dry bones and with them a tomahawk, a spear head and an arrow, all in excellent condition. For my part I feel a bit guilty to this day in having disturbed the rest of that old Indian, and actually robbing his grave, but until last week I really thought I could place my hands on that tomahawk and secure it for this Association. When I asked for it, however, I found that in dividing the spoils the boy whom I thought took the tomahawk took something else and the tomahawk went elsewhere. Several other tomahawks have been found, but, as yet,

their owners do not feel inclined to part with them, even to have them become a part of this Association's collection.

About fifteen years ago Isaac Dunham, while plowing on Tuckernuck one day, turned out a tomahawk which he preserved several years, finally presenting it to the son of a favorite summer resident who still has it.

Lawrence Mooney, Jr., has an excellent specimen which he found near Quaise a few years ago. This tomahawk, unlike the others which have been found, has a peculiar ridge about it, to which the handle was evidently fastened.

An Indian arrow, with the stone head firmly bound to the wooden shaft, in every way intact and perfect, was found in a sand hill just west of the town about a dozen years ago. This arrow is still preserved by the local Order of Red Men. There is another relic of the Nantucket Indians in existence, and a very interesting one, too. It is an Indian pipe -not the kind that grows on the moors or in the

swamps- but a pipe which may have been smoked as the pipe of peace on more than one occasion in the days of our dusky predecessors. This pipe was found about a mile west of the village of 'Sconset by Henry Coffin, who has always cherished it as a valuable relic, refusing large sums of money for it at different times, but always turning them down with the statement that the pipe is not for sale.

These are only a few of the "vanished treasures" which ought to have become part of our collection. Many more, equally interesting and equally valuable historically, could be named if space and time permitted. However, the mention of some of these relics which have disappeared may kindle anew the fires of memory, as it is only within the last half century that they vanished, and it may be that some of them may yet be located, to ultimately find a permanent resting place in the collection of the Nantucket Historical Association.

Harry B. Turner, publisher and editor of the Inquirer and Mirror, 1907-1948.

31

?

32

This impression of the NHA "Family Tree," listing the buildings and museums t1mt make up the Association's hold

Hgs and tile year each was added, was designed and limned by well-known Nantucket scrimshander David Lazarus.

33

This letter was originally published in the April1974 issue of Historic Nantucket. Editor Edouard A. Stackpole wrote the introduction and the notes that are part of the article.

Nantucket's First Swimming Pool Built in 'Sconset Clement A. Penrose In a letter written a few years ago by Clement A. Penrose, of Birmingham, Michigan, and 'Sconset, there is a descriptive account of the "Bathing Pavilion" at 'Sconset which contained what was probably the first heated swimming pool on Nantucket.

Mr. Penrose, who has been a regular summer resident of 'Sconset since he was a small child, has a considerable knowledge of the village in the early years of this century, and his Swimming pool and hot salt baths on the 'Sconset beach. account of this antique 'Sconset bathing facility is of interest visitors still around who remember when as a part of Nantucket's history as a summer it was built in August, 1906, by Albert G. resort.

Brock and Roland B. Hussey, the former being a prominent insurance agent on the o the newer generation of 'Sconseters Island for many years as well as a longand Nantucketers as well, it may come time president of the Pacific National as a complete surprise to learn that for a Bank, and the latter editor and publisher considerable number of years there was a of the Inquirer and Mirror from 1887 until combination series of bath-houses and an 1907, and also at one time president of the enclosed saltwater swimming pool on Pacific National Bank and first manager of what was then and still is the 'Sconset the Siasconset Casino. (Mr. Hussey died Main Beach, or public beach, as it is now April 26, 1923, at the age of 71. Albert G. Brock died Dec. 15, 1938, at the age of 76.) known.

The "Bathing Pavilion," as it was called In fact, there aren't too many summer

-

T

34

in perha ps a some what "ton gue-incheek" fa shi on, co nsisted of a series of bathhou ses and an enclosed sa !twa ter swimming pool, all of which were presided over by a genial man of trem endo us size named Everett P. (Doc) Clisby. "Doc" and his wife lived on Shell Street in 'Sconset, where they also ra n an eating place and small bakery. I can remember well as a sm a ll boy being sen t o ve r to bring h ome s ome of "Mrs. Clisby's bread." While "Doc" Clisby apparently was no certified medical practitioner, he customarily gave first aid when required, which, seemingly even in those days was a "must" for any professional swimming instructor.

The late James P. Coffin of 'Sconset, during the career of the "Bathing Pavilion," was official lifeguard of the Main Beach, and part of his job was to stand by at the pool during instruction periods with a large hook, with which to catch on to the bathing suits and rescue any pupil of "Doc" Clisby who happened to be in imminent danger of found ering.

his other talents, "Doc" Clisby was a talented artist. I have never, to the best of my knowledge, seen any of his work, but Phil tells me that his sister, who lives in Abington. Pennsylvania, has one of his paintings.

In compiling this information, in addition to Philip Morris, 'Sconset's postmaster for nearly 35 years, I am indebted to Philip A. Williams, III, present occupant and owner of the property, to my cousin, John Gibbs Penrose, to the late Miss Mildred Burgess of 'Sconset, and to the Inquirer and Mirror for their all-important item regarding the building of the original property in August, 1906, which provided the necessary prodding of the memory for not only the needed original information but the later facts and nostalgic reminiscences which constitute this article.

Girl on the 'Sconset beach.

As I remember "Doc" Clisby, he was, Actually, other than summer tenants of while strong as a bull and in appearance the Williams family, the cottage has never somewhat on the terrifying side, a quiet, been occupied except by Mr. and Mrs. patient man, a good swimmer, and Philip A. Williams, Jr., and their son and undoubtedly well-fitted for his job. While daughter-in-law, Mr. and Mrs. Philip A. there must be many others still around Williams, III, the present occupants and who have bathed in the old swimming owners. pool, aside from myself two others come The basement of "The Buoy," as the immediately to mind, namely my first cottage has been known ever since it has cousin, John Gibbs Penrose, and Roland been occupied by the Williams family, is Martindale Coffin. none other than the old swimming pool, With the passage of time, the once-pop- which forms a major portion of the founular "Bathing Pavilion" became less well dations of the cottage, but any salt water patronized, and had been closed up for therein would be strictly unplanned! some time before the Nantucket Railroad Phil Morris informed me that among made its final run on Sept. 23, 1917. In 1919, Mr. Brock and Mr. Hussey made arrangements with a contractor, to convert the former "Bathing Pavilion" into a dwelling. The first tenants were Mr. and Mrs. Philip A. Williams, Jr. who had previously been spending their summers on the Cape. (Mr. Williams, incidentally, was the pioneer automobile distributor in the State of Massachusetts, having been first with Ford Motor Co. since 1904, and later with Dodge Bros.) Mrs. Williams fell in love with the converted "Bathing Pavilion" at first sight, and after renting it for several years, bought it at auction when it was eventually put up for sale.

View of the beach and bungalows.

Author's notes: Ernest Coffin of 'Sconset used to haul coal for the steam boiler which was used for heating the pool. The pool itself was constructed by Nathaniel B. Lowell, then the main stone mason on the Island.

Phil Morris' sister, Mrs. William M. Sillars of Abington, Pa., has the picture by "Doc" Clisby.

Ernest R. Coffin is and has been caretaker of the property ever since it was acquired by the Williams family.

Editor's Note: "The Buoy" is now going overboard as the erosion of 'Sconset's beach continues.

35

Nantucketers have always had a reputation for independence.

From the 1906 Proceedings, here's one reason why.

The Colonial Church and Nantucket Henry B. Worth, Esq. he New England colonial community was based on the village system that took its rise before the dawn of history in the forests of Germany. The plan could exist only in regions where the land was diversified, woodland, meadows, tillable soil and barrens separated from each other in more or less variety. If, as in the Southern states, thousands of acres of land lay in extensive tracts all that would be required would be to mark it into sections, square, oblong or otherwise, and thus divide it into adjoining farms. In the South a few such domains, in some instances constitute an entire county. Mt. Vernon alone in area was about the size of the Island of Nantucket. But where the land suitable for house-lots was in scattered localities, and not extensive, and other kinds of land were separated by woods and stony barrens, the only practical plan was to assign to the settlers a proportionate part in the house-lot location and also in woodland, meadows, swamp and barren and thus allot to each an equitable proportion in every kind of land.

This arrangement would result in the houses being clustered together in a group which would be also advantageous in that the residents would be so placed as to give mutual assistance against a common enemy. This was the arrangement and purpose of the Germanic village.

This system was brought from England by the Puritans and Pilgrims, and as they were inspired with a religious idea the center of the village was the meeting house. The typical arrangement was a central square, generally circular or oblong in figure, surrounded by a roadway; radiating from this road were ways that led to the remote parts of the town.

Illustrations of this plan may be observed in Plymouth, Taunton, Bridgewater,

T

36

Rochester [and other Massachusetts towns]. As soon as the land was laid out, arrangement was made for the meeting house. It was located at a convenient spot fronting the town square or common, and was erected as soon as possible. Often on the same lot was established a common burial ground. The greatest care was shown to have due provision made for the minister and meeting house. They were as much town institutions as the poor, school, or road department.

Appropriations of money were made in town meeting and the Proprietary always made an assignment of a minister's share, and the name "Ministry Lot" remains attached to some localities at the present time. Frequently men of the parish would contribute land or money for the same purpose. Plymouth Colony recommended that in all dead whales found on the shore one share should go to the minister.

The central and important fact in the town was the meeting house and the principal citizen was the minister, and both were so essential in the life of a New England community that each was maintained by taxation at the public expense. The laws enacted by both Puritans and Pilgrims on these matters were explicit, and promptly and rigidly enforced.

Then both Colonies passed stringent laws about church attendance; men were chosen to patrol the town and arrest persons engaged on the Lord's day in acts of recreation or pleasure. It was also their duty to keep people a wake during the church service. These Sunday constables were called "tithing men".

During one period citizenship and church membership were synonymous terms; only church members could vote or hold office. In Hingham a certain individual was found to be ineligible as ensign in

the local military compa ny because he could not partake of the church communion. Such was the position and standing of the minister and meeting house in the New England community.

At Nantucket the situation was radically different. Although the settlers came from Massachusetts Bay and might be expected to take with them the religious customs and usages of the towns whence they came yet every feature of the New England meeting house already described was lacking. The first mention of a meeting house is to be found in 1709, half a century after the island was settled, in the records of the Nant ucket Mont hly Meeting of Friends. A vote was passed in 1716 that notice of th e town meet ing should be posted on the meeting house, and another vote in 1725 that the notice should be posted on both meeting houses.

In 1765 the town voted to permit certain material belonging to the North Shore Meeting House to be stored in the town house during its removal. These are all the references to meeting houses to be found in the records of the town. No mention of the word "minister" is anywhere to be found; not a farthing was ever appropriated or contributed by the town for either minister or meeting house. Tithing men were not elected until long after 1700.

There was complete and absolute separation of the town and church, and in fact, from the settlement of Nantucket to the present time, there was never any relation between church, meeting house or minister and the municipality of the town.

It may be profitable to investigate the reason for this peculiar situation, because it must seem strange for families to leave Massachusetts Bay where all activities centered about the meeting house and found a community where the minister

and meeting house were absolutely elimi- Anabaptists. nated; but an examination of the facts will Peter Folger explain the unusual condition. seems to have 1. For the first thirty years after the set- been a man of tlement of the Island, Nantucket was a religious emopart of New York Colony; in 1692 it was tions and some annexed to the Province of Massachusetts. skill in writing New York had no laws requiring the and speech. It maintenance of minister or meeting house, has been asserted or compelling church attendance . There that he was a was no suc!J. institution supported by the Baptist, but this public treasury, and no compulsory obser- rests on doubtful vance of any religious forms; consequently tradition and may there was absent the most powerful incen- be open to seritive to support a meeting house, viz: the ous question. '---------------~fear of the law. With this lacking there Cotton Mather, Built c. 1725, the Old North Vestry is the oldest continually utilized house would be no public support, and the entire the great Puritan of worship on Nantucket. combination would depend on the reli- minister, writing gious enthusiasm and steadfastness of the of Nantucket, said that: "Peter Folger Massachusetts Bay they resolved to allow inhabitants, and Massachusetts found that taught the young reading, writing, and a to each man absolute religious freedom. this could never be trusted . This impor- knowledge of the Scriptures." Such a Consequently the minister and the meettant support of the meeting house never commendatory remark would not have ing house as municipal institutions never existed and this alone was sufficient to been likely if Folger had belonged to the existed in Nantucket. account for the fact that these religious Baptists, a sect hated by Mather. So far as About the year 1700 the Friends institutions were not established at can be ascertained Macy, Starbuck and secured a foothold and soon became a Nantucket.

Folger controlled the religious affairs of powerful factor in all the affairs of the 2. Under these circumstances, even if the Island. Presumably Folger was of the Island. they had by voluntary contributions suc- same religious opinion as Mather, while But it may be asked if all this be true ceeded in erecting a meeting house, no Macy and Starbuck were not in accord and there was no minister or meeting minister would care to undertake to with the Colonial Presbyterianism of that house on the Island for the first half centupreach in such a section, many miles at day. ry after the settlement, was it a Godless, The sentiment of the settlers can also be immoral and irreligious community? By sea, surrounded by hundreds of Indians, little opportunity to visit the mainland, inferred from the vote taken soon after no means. When the Quaker missionaries and, worse than all, no law compelling the their arrival. In stead of adopting church came to the Island they found a thrifty inhabitants to contribute to his support. membership as the test of citizenship they community where occasionally some cler3. But an important reason may be dis- prescribed two qualifications, viz: land gyman had made a visit, where no war covered in the character and disposition of ownership and residence on the Island. In had ever existed with the Indians, where the settlers. Thomas Macy had been fined this they dismissed all religious connec- the court records show that crime among for exhorting in public without the proper tion of church and state. the whites was almost unknown, where license or approval; he was probably a So it appears that this was the situation: the people were well-versed in the man of fluency of speech, and enjoyed the settlers proposed to separate religion Scriptures, where the inhabitants had engaging in public discourse. Elder from government as permitted by the laws developed to a point to understand and Edward Starbuck was disciplined by the of New York Colony. The leaders were accept the mystical teachings of the Dover church on account of the subject of independent in thought and might have Friends, and where the leading family on baptism, and he was rated with the been appropriately designated as "free- the Island was that of Mary and Nathaniel . - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - . , thinkers" of that day. Starbuck. No evidence of degeneration in Among themselves they all this.

To ¡be sure the Islanders were not were not exactly in agreement and so under all the angels. Tristram Coffin and John Gardner circumstances they did and their adherents could grapple in bitter not feel the need of a min- conflict, and for years the feud might conister or meeting house, tinue, but such events were frequent in and probably would not every colonial town; innocent men and have united on any form women, for fancied crimes, during the of creed. They seemed to Quaker and witchcraft excitements had minister to their own reli- been condemned to death under the shadgious needs according to ow of the Puritan meeting house; but the their varying opinions results of investigation show that in 1710, and views, and none when Nantucket had its first organized interfered with the prac- religious body it was a community as "Parliament House," now at 10 Pine Street, was the site of tice of his neighbor. highly advanced and developed as any in Nantucket's first Quaker meeting, organized by Mary Coffin Having become wearied the Province, even though it never had Starbuck in 1708. of the Puritan Church of minister, meeting, or meeting house.

37

It seems obvious that Mr. Macy had fun preparing this talk for NHA 's 1903 annual meeting. You'll enjoy it too .

The Humor of Nantucket hose of you who are surprised to see me here are not more so than I am to be here. In response to our President's invitation to contribute something to the programme, I wrote that I expected to be elsewhere at this time, but that if I could arrange it I would be glad to come and do my part. My presence here reminds me of the story of the good old lady who lived in Polpis and had been asked to join a party who were going to Great Point to spend the day with the light-keeper's family.

Something having gone wrong on the morning of the "squanturn," however, she was in no mood for festivities when they called for her, and declined to accompany them.

What was their surprise therefore when, several hours later, in the midst of the lunch at the light house, in walked "Aunt Love," and in response to their exclamations, "Why, we thought you weren't corning!" calmly replied as she seated herself at the table, "Well, I wasn't, but I was up this way William F. Macy and thought I'd stop!" So I, finding myself at the Vineyard yesterday, the ear of him that hears it, never in the thought I'd stop here for a day, and here I tongue of him that makes it," the personam. nel of my audience gives me confidence to In dealing with this subject I am con- take some chances. fronted with two very serious difficulties, As to the other danger I mentioned, I - first, the danger of perpetrating a good apologize in advance for any wounds of a many of what must necessarily prove to be personal nature I may inflict. It would be "chestnuts" to many of you; and second, out of the question to mention names the constant fear of "treading on some- without hitting sorneone's relations here, body's corns." Most of the stories and so I will ask you, as we say, not to sayings I shall ask you to hear have been "spoil a joke for relations' sake," and told before - some of them very often for once to eliminate the personal but I may have a few which are new to all equation altogether. of you, others which are new to some, and The Compiler of "Sea Girt Nantucket" those which are familiar to all may still classifies the humor of the Island as of two bear repeating once more. And since, as kinds, conscious and unconscious. I think Rosalind says, "A jest's prosperity lies in I might still further separate it into three

T

38

subdivisions to which I would give the names, coined for the occasion: "Na uticalisrns ," "Quaker i s m s," an d "Personalism s."

It is my pu rpose to give only a few of each, and one or two of a miscellaneous character not yet classified.

Nautical terms are so interlarded w it h the commo n everyday sp eech of those of us who are to the manner born that we do not realize our use of them half the time until our attention is called to it by outsiders.

We do not pull, we always "haul." We do not tie or fasten anything, we "splice" it; we rig and belay, back a nd fill, get under way (or weigh), heave to, come about and square away, so naturally and spontaneously that it never occurs to any of us there is anything unusual in our mode of expressing ourselves.

To the visitor it is all "so interesting," and "quaint," to use a much abused word which I overheard o ne g ood Nantucket lady say she was so tired and sick of the sound of she wished she might never hear it again.

I have jotted down a few samples of more or less unconscious humor in the use of Nauticalisrns.

An old captain, being invited out to dinner, frankly acknowledged as the company drew round the festive board, that he was ready to "fall to" any time, for he'd "come with a swep' hold ."

Another, being asked why he retired from the sea, replied: "Well, I thought when I got to the No'thard o' sixty, 'twas time to heave to."

Still another, on a visit to New York, found fault with the lack of oysters in the stew served him at a restaurant, and call-

ing the waiter, inquired "Say, can't ye give us a few more oysters? These here are a day's sail apart."

One member of The Sons and Daughters of Nantucket wrote on his reply postal card accompanying the announcement of the annual reunion: "Sorry I can't fetch it, but I'll try and forelay for it next year."

Nantucket children were told to "splice their patience."

Housewives spoke of "tending kitchen halyards."

A request for assistance in any task often took the form of asking someone to "hold the slack."

An ill-fitting garment was said to fit "like a pu' ser' s shirt on a hand spike."

A thrifty wife of the old days, noting that the larder was getting low, and seeing no immediate prospect of its being replenished, is said to have remarked to her lazy husband, who had been sitting in the chimney corner all winter: "Well, John, one or tether of us has got to round Cape Horn and I ain't agoin'."

Long absences from home were accepted as so much a matter of course in the old days that we can almost believe the story of the wife who saw her husband coming up the street on his return from a four years' voyage "around the Horn," and taking the empty water pail from its place on the dresser, met him at the door with: "Hullo, John, got back have ye? Here, go get a bucket o' water."

Perhaps the most deliciously "salt" of all the old nautical expressions was the saying applied to a sailor just home from a voyage, as he strolls down the street on his "sea legs," in a brand new suit from the outfitter's shop, his pockets full of money, which he can't get rid of fast enough, smoking a "long nine," ogling the maids, and with a general the-world-is-mine air in his whole attitude and get-up. Then the old timers would tip the wink and say: "There's Jack! Rolling down to St. Helena, eighteen cloths in the lower studd'ns'l and no change out of a dollar!"

These anecdotes and expressions smacking of the sea and of ships might be multiplied indefinitely. Everyone here could doubtless furnish as many as I have given, but a few Quakerisms were promised.

You have all heard of the old Quaker schoolmaster who set the copy on the blackboard for the writing class: "Beauty fadeth soon Like a rose in 6th mo."

Also the story of "Robinson Crusoe and his good man 6th day."

Aunt Elizabeth Black, the schoolmarm, used to say when a pupil recited well: "Excellent! Excellent! Thee deserves a reward of approbation!"

An elderly Friend once interviewed the blacksmith in regard to the price for making him a carving knife. "Well," was the stammering reply, "I can make you a pretty good knife for seventy-five cents; I can make you a better one for a dollar, but I'll make you one that would cut the devil's head off for a dollar and a quarter!" It is needless, perhaps, to repeat the Quaker's remark: "Thee may make me the dollarand-a-quarter knife."

"Friend Charles," remarked an old Quaker to a sailor addicted to the habit of drawing the long bow, after the latter had spun an unusually stiff yarn, "if thee'd ever been one-half as economical of the world's goods as thee is of the truth, thce'd be the richest man in Nantucket."

How much better that than calling the man a liar.

Occasionally the Quakers dropped into verse, as witness the well-known proposal of Obed Macy to Abigail Pinkham: From a long consideration Of the good reputation Thou hast in this nation, Gives me the inclination To become thy relation By a legal capitulation.

And if this, my declaration, May but gain thy approbation, It will lay an obligation From generation to generation Of thy friend Who, without thy consideration May remain in vexation.

It is gratifying to be able to record, in passing, that this effusion had the desired effect, and that Obed and Abigail were married (in the year 1786) and had ten children.

A story which indicates that human nature, and especially feminine nature, was much the same among the Quakers of a hundred years ago as we find it now, was told me recently by a lady who is present today, and who, I trust, will permit me to tell it. The lady, who is a granddaughter of the illustrious Walter Folger of astronomical clock fame, relates that during the periods when that great man was working on his various inventions he often became so absorbed that his good wife scarcely saw him for days at a time.

Indeed, it was only with difficulty that

he could be persuaded to come to his meals, and then he ate in an absent-minded way and returned immediately to his workshop with scarcely a word. On one occasion a neighbor, calling at the house, had the temerity to offer sympathy to Madame Folger for the loss of her husband's society. "It's too bad, so it is, that Walter neglects thee for his old notions!"

"Yes," replied the loyal wife, "it's a great trial, and sometimes I almost wish he didn't know any more than thy husband!"

Which is just one more example of "how these women do love one another!"

Before coming to the personalisms, I cannot refrain from mentioning, as one of the humorous features of Nantucket character, the well-known complacency and self-satisfaction of the average Nantucketer concerning his native town and all that pertains to it.

We all know the type of man who cannot understand why anyone should want to live anywhere else when he could live on Nantucket. We have heard of the man who had never been "off-island." "What on earth should I want to go off island for," said he. "This town's good enough for me." We speak with kindly pity of those who were unfortunate enough to have been born elsewhere, and, during the winter freeze-ups, much sympathy is always expressed for the people on the mainland in their enforced isolation from Nantucket.

A Nantucket schoolboy located Alaska as "in the Northwest corner of off-island."

Another began his composition on Napoleon thus: "Napoleon was a great man; he was a great soldier and a great statesman- but he was an off-islander."

Note the "but." Poor Napoleon!

One of the public carriage drivers, showing a party of excursionists over the town, was asked what those queer platforms were on the top of many of the houses. "I told 'em," he said, "that they were 'walks', but I wondered where they'd been all their lives."

The speech of the older Nantucketers is filled with quaint similes of a personal application, many of which are still heard occasionally, though often their origin is shrouded in mystery. I have culled a few of the more notable examples: One "Uncle Jimmy," who kept a grocery store in the old days, from time to time missed pork from the barrel which stood in the open back-shop. He had his suspicions, but he never mentioned them, nor the loss, to any one. Finally one day, years afterward, a certain respected citizen, lounging in the store, inquired casual-

39

ly: "By the way, Uncle Jimmy, did you ever find out who stole that pork?"

"Never until this very day!" was the calm reply from Uncle Jimmy as he fixed his visitor with a stern, unflinching gaze. It is further stated that the pork was paid for in full, with compound interest. Hence the expression so often heard: "keeping still like Uncle Jimmy."

When the honor of entertaining the minister fell to Annie Burrill, the good woman was so flustered that she forgot to put any tea into the tea pot although the water was duly boiled. The minister accepted the beverage without remark, and when the spirit of hospitality prompted his hostess to ask him repeatedly: "Is your tea satisfactory?" his invariable response was "It has no bad taste, Madam." Thus, "as weak as Annie Burrill's tea" became a simile for her day and generation.

A man named John Meader, living here during the War of 1812, applied to his

Walter Folger

40

neighbor for the loan of a hammer. Being asked what he wanted it for, he replied, "To knock out my teeth. I have no need of them, for I can get nothing to eat." Hence the saying among old Nantucketers, "I have no more for it than Meader had for his teeth."

The remarkable penchant of many Nantucket characters for what someone has platitudinous ponderosity is often called to, and many anecdotes are related of the flowery language used in some of the announcements in the local papers.

In the far away time lived one Squire Hussey, lawyer, real estate agent, justice of the peace and, withal, a past master of the English language, as will appear in the following notices: "For Sale: A dwelling house situated on the Cliff. This notable headland commands an extensive view of the Vineyard Sound, where vessels may be seen passing to and fro in accelerated velocity."

"For Sale: A dwelling house on York

Street. This is one of the most popular localities of the town, in the midst of a refined and enlightened community. The colored Methodist Society contemplates erecting a house of worship immediately opposite, which fact w ill commend itself to all religiously disposed minds."

A lady relates the following experience of a shopping tour in Nantucket: "I wanted a piece of trimming so I went down to Harriet's for it, but she hadn't it, so I went over to Lyddy Ann's. She said "no," but thought I' d find it at Mary F.'s.

She sent me into Em mie's, but Emmie didn't have it eithe r, and sug gested Hannah's, so I cro ssed over and tried there. Still unsuccessful, I stopped in at Lizzy Ann's, and she told me the only place I could get it would be up to Eunice's, so I went way up there, just for a little piece of trimming, but I got it!"

The old game of "Kumchekum", as we always pronounced it (however it may have been spelled) in which one person gives the initial letters of some object he has in his mind, fro m which the others endeavor to guess what it may be, was often played on Nantucket with names of persons. On one occasion one of the younger members gave the letters "L. 0."

After the guessers h ad exhausted the entire population of the town, one member even surreptitiously consulting the well-worn family copy of the local census, they were forced to give it up, w hen the youngster coolly announced that the person he had in mi nd was "Lizabeth Austin."

[This anecdote suggested a similar incident to a lady who was present in which the initials "G. N ." were given, and after the guessers has racked their brains for an hour or more, they learned that the object in mind was jack-knife.]

These are but a few of the hundreds of good stories, many doubtless better than these, which have been told of our people, but I disclaim any attempt to cover the field in even the lea st exh au stive way.

Those I have given are only a suggestion of the possibilities in this d irection. Many of them have been three times thrice told; many of them lose much of their savor without the atmosphere and the personality of the teller to accompany them; but the suggestion which has been made of collecting these bits of history and sidelights on the bygone generations, that they may be preserved in some permanent form in the archives of the Association, is a good one, and one which I hope may be carried out. If the few examples I have given shall serve, even in a slight degree, to stimulate

A gentle look at gentler times is found in Miss Alice Beers's recollections of 'Sconset, first published in Historic Nantucket in 1986 and 1987.

Memories of "Old 'Sconset" Alice Beers ou have inquired when I would write and fat, suffered dreadfully from the heat my memoirs of Nantucket-of of New York City and indeed the town of 'Sconset. I wonder why I should, or who Yonkers on the Hudson where we lived would care. The only reason for commit- was not cool. Someone told my father of ting any such matter to paper is that I have an island where sea breezes blew and lived so long and do recall, mistily, so prickly heat existed not, so he set off with much that has vanished, that was so lively, his family to explore. The family? My mother, my brother Tom, my little brother so happy.

Last summer, waiting at the airport in Richard, still a toddler, and Bridgit, our the late afternoon to greet a guest, I fell wonderful big, soft voiced Irish Bridgit, into chat with a lady, who like myself, was and myself, the eldest, age about nine.

The trip? It began with the Fall River fretting over the delay of the arrival of a plane--hers from Boston, mine from New Boat leaving in the late afternoon from York. At some point in our talk she asked near Fulton Street. The excitement to chilme how long I had been coming to the dren of exploring those big, gaudy boats; island. I thought a moment and then of the first look at the cabin with its double answered "I can't remember the exact year, but I remember it was before the SpanishAmerican War." She cast upon me a look of sheer unbelief and moved slightly away, as though from someone deranged.

But it happens to be true and I can recall our first trip to this island.

My father, who was tall, fair The Ocean View House, Siasconset, c. 1890.

Y

berths, or bunks, the funny, salty smell of the little cabin, the first experiments with the little basins. But the really thrilling part was the passage of the boats around Manhattan Island, under the bridges-up the East River-where boys at about what is now fashionable Beekman Place were swimming and diving in the oily water.

Finally slowly through Hells Gate (no bridge then), and into more open water. It was cool-fresh.

Dinner time, so down in the dining room to be served by friendly waiters; finally to bed in the little berths, the cool air through shutters, the tramp of feet on the decks. At some time in the night the ship rolled heavily-we were told we were rounding Point Judith. A noisy stop, at dawn's early light, was for Newport.

Finally up, hurried breakfast, out and on the waiting train in Fall River; the engines puffing coal smoke-red plush seats in the car, very sooty. Finally, by train, carried through fields and towns we

41

'Sconset fishermen. reach New Bedford, and there at the dock awaiting us another steamer.

This one is not so gaudy, simpler, and smelled authentically of the sea. We found chairs on a sheltered spot on deck for mother and the restless baby Richard and Bridgit. Tom and I roved, explored. There was a man on board who sold popcorn stickers-yellow, pink of various flavors .

We were soon sticky with the stuff. We left, I believe, at 9 or 9:30-it was interesting even to a child to watch the departure from old New Bedford Harbor.

Then the open sea-much wind for little caps, or sailor hats; finally Woods Hole-people coming on, getting off, fun to watch the docking and leaving, all new.

Now out into more open sea, and then stop at a strange looking town of tall wooden houses on shore-the old stop, Oak Bluffs, before Vineyard Haven in later years became the regular landing.

This we learned was an island named Martha's Vineyard.

Now came the long stretch in rougher sea-though I do not recall any undue turbulence that day. The sudden rush to the ship's side and tossing of a bundle of paper to another ship-the Lightship we were told-and we stared wonderingly at the distant men on its decks, as we were told of their long, lonely weeks of duty.

Finally after what seemed to my mother an endless journey, we could contemplate the harbor of Nantucket.

I wish I could claim a clear recollection of the beauty of the harbor, the town and its three steeples, climbing up the slopes.

Memory is overlaid with later, off-repeat-

42

ed impressions of the lovely moment.

What I recall is confused excitement on the wharf, the many men from hotels with their carriages waiting-calling Ocean House, Springfield, Sea Cliff Inn. My father presently shepherded us to a little train, waiting near the wharf, and in we filed . That funny little train of yellow cars, straw seats and open windows.

My mother later confessed that she thought she was being dragged to the end of the earth-so weary, baffled she was.

But presently we left the town and were moving through open fields and moors-and presently, too, there was the blue sea at our right. Then, said my mother later, she began to inhale the wonderful sweet, pure air, and she thought it was the loveliest, freshest air she had breathed since the days she rode horseback with her father in Colorado.

The little train ended its journey at a big red shed, at the foot of a low hill, 'Sconset Station. Up there we trudged and were Jed by father to a big, old-fashioned hotel-where he left us to wait-while he disappeared with a white-haired gentleman we learned was Mr. Underhill. Poor mother-more waiting with restless children. I chiefly recall the scent of the matting on the floor of a corridor. Finally, father returned and we were guided, though lanes and grassy roads, to a cluster of small, low-roofed, shingled cottages.

One of these father had selected for our summer dwelling, one of the Underhill Settlement houses, built in imitation of the ancient little 'Sconset houses we soon came to know in the old section of the vii-

lage. Exploration of the little rooms was an excitement to us children. One room was in a loft and had to be reached by a ladder! I don't know how we all packed in. There was a separate little cabin or house for Bridgit. This w as simple Jiving-no running water, bowl and pitcher, an out-house, oil lamps and candles.

I know we loved it soon.

And the next day all of us, in bathing suits of the period, emerged and made our way through that settlement, along the open street to the step s to the ma in beach-and here with what exhilaration we met the waves of the open Atlantic.

None of us could swim-all being midlanders by birth. In no t ime my father handed us over to a tall, fair-haired, blueeyed man, with a yellow mustache, who shivered slightly, smiled comfortingly, and led us, in turn, into the waves. This was Jim Coffin, a great swimmer, w ho taught us all to swim. He was so tall he made nothing of the surf; he grasped us by the slack of our clothing and supporting us said "now go this way with your hands" which was just the breast strokeand somehow we had no fear; the water, the waves, the backwash were fun, and very soon Tom and I were swimmi ng alone.

Mother and fath e r were both th us instructed by Mr. Coffin, though they neither became expert - just happy paddlers.

Richard, at that time a dabbler only, ultimately became the good swimmer of the tribe.

That beach at 'Sconset! It was the foc us of interest, the social center of 'Sconset in those early days. Many people had tents there, and, indeed, further north along the beach in front of summer houses as well.

These tents were very plain affairs: canvas stretched over a ridge pole and fastened to four stout posts at the corners.

Of course at night these had to be furled as they would break loose in a high wind. They were mighty comfortable for resting between swims, vi siting, or an afternoon nap. A few people, somewhat later, sported beach umbrellas. People formed in friendly group s-made dates for golf-after golf links were established - or tennis - after the casino and its courts were built. But in our very first years at 'Sconset there was just swimming, walking, resting in the afternoon on the beach-and many ladies took sewing or books to the beach for an afternoon under tent; the children played endlessly on the beach.

In those days there was active fishing off the 'Sconset shore. The dories lay bot-

tom up in the sand and we children above the fisherman's settlement, later the played about in their shade. It was great house of Mr. and Mrs. Robinson,_and their fun t o s ee the men launch the dories daughter Rita. Many 'Sconset houses are through the surf, and, once outside, a little peculiar; this one had a fascinating sail was hoisted . And it was exciting to see arrangement of two stairways to the secthe boats landed through the surf later and ond floor, but no communication between observe the catch. There was a fisherman's parts of the house served by said stairsettlement of shacks, just north of the main ways.

After that period my father laid hand beach, on the sand below the bluff and one fish erman I recall had his market there, on a big white house on the edge of the Stillma n Cash, w ho for y ear s was our bluff, just a step from the Robinson house, friendly supplier. That settlement of fish- and here we perched for several summers. erman's shacks grew and this section in The house was referred to I think as the these times is referred to as Codfish park. Bluff Cottage. It stood at the very beginBut the fishermen and their boa ts are gone. ning of the Path to Sankaty, and people What else was o ur r ec rea t ion? turned through a little lane there onto the Walking---everyone walked. We walked front bluff. the lovely path along the bluff to Sankaty.

What was 'Sconset like in those preWe walked down t he south sh o re-we automobile, pre-airplane, pre-electricity, walked the moors or fo r longer expedi- pre-telephone days? tions we drove to Sesachacha Pond, to One paved road from "Town," our Wauwinet, a long exp edition! to hidd en Main or Milestone road led into the vilfavorite s pots or p o nd s on th e moo r s. l age. At the end, to the right, was the When I say drove you understand I mean aforementioned old hotel. Lanes spread a way, gra ss edged-with the old low with horse and buggy.

My mother loved flo wers and plants, houses of the village and on the bluff edge and often of an afternoon we would set off at that point a few summer homes. If one with Jim Coffin in h is rig, for Mr. Coffi n turned left from the end of the main road, knew the plants of the Island with intimate walking a little north, one came to a little affection, and besid e being a good swim- open space, where stood the Town Pump. mer and good farmer, was also an excel- This was an authentic old wooden pump lent gardener. and trough, and was used by many of the Experienced Nantucketers kept an open nearby dwellers. Indeed I clearly recall our eye for wild grape, and beach plums; for Bridgit carrying buckets of water from the the jellies and preserves made from these pump to the Bluff cottage-though all the fruits were the pride of the good housekeeper.

I think that eve ryone in those early days had bicycles ; a goo d many people h a d their own horses. What else filled our time?

Well, th ere were amateur ba seball games I re call, in open fiel ds where such g a me s could be quickly got up by a crowd of super active youths.

Our family spent only its first summer in the Underhill Settlement, after that we rented other small houses, in the village, then on the bluff for a couple of seasons the odd attractive house just Old fish cart at Codfish Park.

houses had cisterns, little slate sinks and hand pumps in the kitchen.

Many of the larger houses built by "summer people" up the North Bluff or in the south part of 'Sconset had windmills, and therefore would have running water and proper bathrooms.

The pump stood in front of a storeMr . Wally Brown's small general store. I am vague about what he sold, probably canned goods, but I remember him mainly for more important commodities-gum drops and sugar-coated almonds .

Immediately upon arrival we made for Wally Brown's, and sustained and soothed by bags of gum drops and the sweet almonds, could set forth to check up on any changes in town. That little square was pretty in those days-with old houses on the little lanes branching off.

One particularly at the north side of the square was remarkable for the pitch of its roof. In midsummer a most glorious trumpet vine half covered the slanting end. A step or two through a short lane led to the main street, always in my memory called Broadway-it was in any case a bit broader-with wide grass paths, the road itself just a rutted road with generous lines of grass along the middle. It was a charming stree t lined each side with the old low, slant roofed, shingled houses . The little yards were open to the street, not as today smothered in high privet hedges. One or two boasted climbing roses, or a few small

43

plantings of garden flowers, but in those faroff days things were simpler; there was not the conscious effort at gardening of today.

At any rate this was a charming street and the overworked word picturesque is appropriate to describe it. Many of these homes belonged to Nantucketers, others to "off-islanders" with Nantucket roots or relatives. A few were rented to summer people.

As one passed up the little street one came to a shop on the left-a rather open affair with roofed verandah. Within a white-haired, whitecoated man in a straw hat presided over his counters; this was Mr. The Casino, c.1910.

Burgess and this was the village meat market.

From the end of Broadway, in front of At the end of Broadway-facing you- old Pitman's window, one passed to the was a small house, in the front window of open bluff, just overlooking the fisherwhich sat an old man, with lean, straight man's settlement below. Here one met the features, keen eyes, "watching the pass." path to Sankaty, a narrow right of way He saluted you with a brief nod, unsmil- which passed along the bluff north to ing. For years it seemed to me this same Sankaty Light, with the beach below and face was there, sardonic, intimidating to a the open Atlantic beyond, and to the left child-Sam Pitman. the various summer homes in a variety of If you turned to the left here you carne architectural styles, most of them owned to the end of the parallel street and the by people from "off-island" who had long beginning of the highway which led in the summered in 'Sconset. direction of Sesachacha Pond and Sankaty.

They came from the middle-westBut the last village house at that point was Cleveland, Detroit, Chicago, from called Le Petit Cottage, and in it was a lit- Philadelphia, Providence, Poughkeepsie, tle shop of those oddments and women's Boston, New York, Washington. Let me necessities usually called "notions." The say here that when we arrived, there was a proprietress was a quiet, slim, grey-haired definite settled summer population. That lady, a Mrs. Winslow. In a room at the "Underhill Settlement," in the south part back sat her husband carving and putting of the town, of little houses set down in together the little sailors with outstretched open fields had no doubt been built to oars that whirled in the wind, to give you meet the need for more cottages to rent. its direction . We loved them and always There is a legend, born of the American had one on our porch, talent for building propaganda on the It was a typical old Nantucket shop shaky base of an event or brief moment, and the story I am about to tell is typical that 'Sconset was discovered and made and oft told of many shopkeepers in known by actors from New York. The Town. I believe them all!

Underhill Settlement did house a few for a One day I was sent by mother to Mrs. while, but bus drivers were wont to tour Winslow's for some ribbon, a small through those lanes pointing out Actors' amount for some forgotten purpose. When Colony long after many of the little cotMrs. Winslow measured her stock of that tages had passed into private hands. ribbon, she found our request would take Innocent and anonymous owners, hiding it all. "Oh-I couldn't sell it all," she said. in a bit of back garden, would listen as "But-why?" "Oh-I would not have any their home was described as part of "the for other customers."

Actors' Colony."

44

-

Flat statements and generalities are dangerous, but I would venture that in that year, before the Spanish-American War, when we first came to 'Sconset, no actor had discovered the island, or the easy, peaceful inform ality of life in 'Sconset.

That they did, many of them in a few years infiltrated the quiet spot is a fact.

Many came, and left, after a short stay, not a few bought homes o r built. Many became part of the community, in a settled, pleasant way, joined the "old timers" as friends and neighbors. I cherish memories of dignified old Mrs. Gilbert, in a rocking chair on the porch of the lovely old house George Fawcett and his wife owned on the main road . Frank Gilmore and his pretty wife were here, settled summer residents, with their two pretty little girls; indeed, being old e r, I w atched Margalo and Ruth grow up, and Margaret Fawcett, daughter of George, who lived in the old Fawcett house, "Rosemary."

Another who with her sisters melted into the community, was lovely Isabel Irving.

She built a big summer cottage on the north bluff, next to one my father bought for the family later.

But back to those early times, and the life we lived: housekeeping was simplecoal stoves in the kitchen, with the occasional oil stove as an adjunct, or, in a¡ tiny house, the only cooker. In the Bluff Cottage a coal stove was Bridgit's to manage. With only Wally Brown and Mr.

Burgess as suppliers of staples and m eat, one turned to the farmers.

Milk and cream came from Mr. Harry Dunham; vegetables, for us, from Mr. Henry Coffin. They drove in with their farm wagons and came to your door. As to the "staff of life" I a m su re there were women who baked bread on order, and I rememb er clearly going on Saturday evening to Mrs. Folger, across from the Chapel, for Boston brown bread and baked beans.

It is certain that for fruit, more meat supplies and extras there were trips to Town on the little yellow train. On such occasions, if we children were allowed to go, we visited the Women's Exchange in a little house on Main Street near the Bank, where delicious cakes were to be found; and sometimes were taken for ice cream, home-made of course, to a quiet house that seemed to me was on Orange Street. In a still parlor, we ate large saucers of rich chilling stuff.

What w as our average day in The 'Sconset post office. those early years? One woke to the sound of a coffee mill, and presently the the club was a success and became a focus aroma of fresh made coffee. A hearty for summer events. The Saturday afterbreakfast, e ggs, biscuits, home made noon matches were graced by ladies' teas bread- then for us children, out to look in the big room of the old house, and up frie nds, perhaps a short bicycle ride. many a cucumber sandwich I passed or But it was soon time to don the bathing helped make for those events.

And in those years while we were at suits a nd descend to the main beach to swim and sun and idle and visit till our the Bluff Cottage the Siasconset Casino pa re nts pulled us away for a mid-day had be en established in 1900. Tennis meal, which was ample to meet appetites courts appeared where once was a field, whetted by salt air and exercise. In the and a building with a large hall, where years before the Golf Club, before the evening dances might be held, and conCasino, we invented our own entertain- certs, morning, afternoon, or evening. ment for the afternoons. While we were in Finally, what with a stage there, why not the Bluff Cottage came the establishment some theatricals, and, as by the time the of the Golf Club-and there was a persis- Casino was running, the theater folk were tent legend in our family that my father with us in strength, performances were and his friend, John Grout, were the origi- arranged of mixed short scenes, recitals nators of the scheme. Certainly my father and songs, some by the professional was interested. A part of Mr. Henry actors, some by local talent among the Coffin's land, on the main road, was summer folk.

The Casino faced on the broad street adopted. A beautiful big old house on leading west from Pump Square---and on high ground became the simple club house. At first 9 holes were laid out, later that street beyond the Casino, stood the 18. I well remember the arrival of the golf Union Chapel. Sunday morning its bell clubs from Spauldings in New York for rang out across the quiet town, more Tom and me---short, being for our young metallic, not so musical as the great bell in years, and very stiff of shaft. I do not the Unitarian Church in Town, but all the remember how we got to the Links, proba- same a firm reminder of the day. If one bly walked or bicycled . We all, father, arrived as the final tug at the bell was mother, and the young, attempted this pulled, one found George Rogers, dressed sport, none of us with any distinction in his best, releasing the rope. George---a except the youngest, Richard, who later local character, of importance---deserves a developed into a pretty good golfer . But special page to himself.

The services were usually taken by some minister living in 'Sconset for the summer-or visiting churchman. The choir was made up of faithful amateurs from among us summer folk-Minnie Chittenden, Eloise McCreary, her brother Lewis, come mistily back to me.

Sunday to my Presbyterian mother was a day set aside, when one did not indulge in the recreations of the week. Therefore, for many summers we were not allowed to swim. We could walk, read, or rest, but no games, no swimming. This was a trial to us, and our adolescent years saw this edict broken. But I imagine other young things of like upbringing suffered the same ruling.

Events of the week-days centered about the mail arrivals and departures, which in turn depended on the arrival and d eparture of the steamer to the island. A boat left at 7 AM, another arrived at noon, or 1 or 2-left carrying passengers and mail and another arrived in the evening carrying mail and passengers, remained overnight-left 7 AM. The post office in our first years occupied a small building perched on a wooden bridge which spanned a gully, and low road to the railroad station. It was the thing to go wait for the mail to be sorted, and perch on the rails of the bridge, or lean, talking to friends. A few people had boxes, but most of us lined up when the

45

little window opened and took our mail reserve about the lady clerks. I relished it from Miss Anna Barrett, the postmistress. as I grew older and regretted the disapLater the Post Office was moved to pearance of such shops and their keepers. another building, facing the end of the Of course there were small businesses main road, and at the entrance , so to on some of the other streets-Centre and speak, of the village. In this Post Office Federal. I can recall better what were not stood a public telephone, for long the only than what exactly existed. public phone in 'Sconset. Indeed I would I recall substantial hardware shops, full guess very few houses had telephones in of gear needed for boats, drug stores, subthat period at the turn of the century. stantial food shops. Some furniture was The little narrow-gauge railroad was sold,and there were definitely some our communication with Town, Antique shops, a few of which had the Nantucket Town, and shops, a library, the furniture of island estates. There was Atheneum, newspapers, and a telegraph always one shop kept by an Armenian office. My recollection is that office had where rugs were sold and embroideries. independent hours, closing at 6 and over Down at the wharves was where the Sunday. In fact we rather rejoiced in our real business went on. First of all isolation, our escape from the pressures of Steamboat Wharf where naturally the city life, and bragged of it. goods carried to the island were unloaded Nantucket had one newspaper, a week- for, although at that time, say about ly called The Inquirer and Mirror. It was 1899-1914, there were more farms on the printed on fine, crisp, white stock 44 inch- island. Many necessities such as coal, es wide. In its versions as we first knew it wood, oil and dry goods had to be importthe paper had great character as a truly ed. local expression of town interest.

Then, across a pretty basin, where Nantucketers of those days still retained some small boats were anchored came Old much of the independence of their ances- North Wharf, and the series of wharves tors, a considerable sense of superiority to where the serious business of the fisherthe inhabitants of the mainland. Social man's world went forward, the anchored notes frequently reported Mrs. X. Coffin boats, nets, and shacks and boat houses. "visiting friends in America." Local news On rare occasions for an all day expedievents were reported, shipping, fishing tion we went to Town, carrying a picnic and weather. very little national news con- lunch and took the Lillian, a sail boat cerning country-wide events appeared. which carried passengers to Wauwinet on The Editor, in our first years here, was Mr. a regular schedule. There we liked to Roland B. Hussey, a tall, agreeable man swim in the shallow harbor, lunch on the with a keen wit. He and his delightful little wife lived in 'Sconset in their pretty house at the beginning of Shell Street.

Trips to Nantucket Town were special events. There was shopping to be done, and most of the shops for meat, or groceries, or clothing, or material were on Main Street, in that short stretch between the Bank and the Pacific Club at the foot of Main. It was easy to go in an out with your basket, selecting what you needed. In the dry goods shop at the corner of Fair and Main it seemed always there was a very stiff New England air, a polite The old 'Sconset pump.

46

beach and return on the Lillian to Townthen by train to 'Sconset. As we were surf bathers, we thought it a change to swim occasionally at the To wn beach in still water. And if a grown-up cousin or aunt was visiting, once in a long time we went to Town and engaged a sail boat to tour about the harbor for an afternoon.

But all this brief exploration of Town was just a special break in our long, sun and sea filled days on the 'Sconset shore.

In those early days there existed a Museum, so called, on the second floor of the Atheneum. At so me point in our young lives we discovered this spot as something to visit. It contained the small collection of whalin g equipme nt and skeletons now so well established in our Whaling Museum. With permission from the lady librarian we mounted the stairs, and here met the Attendant in Charge. He had a routine outline of information which he recited. On a first visit some one of us interrupted him with a questio n. He stopped unwillingly, to answer, then unable to continue his routine went back to the beginning! This gave us astonished joy and I very much fear that w hen we took a young friend there later for a visit, we wickedly managed the same effect!

As far as our awareness of whaling and sailing voyages went there was plenty to remind us in 'Sconset: curious forms lying in front of cottages, often overgrown with flowers, were, we were told, the vertebrae of whales. Many a house had in the yard

The 'Sconset bridge.

the painted figure of a woman in wind blown clothes-figurehead for some sailing ship of the past.

We loved the changes in waves and weather. The big storms were an excitement, the high surf, the "combers," the rush of water up the beach to where we sat watching.

Our only need was for books for the rainy days; those certainly my father supplied. Also there dwelt, up on the north bluff, a very sweet old lady, Mrs. Mather, who had a big house, in one room of which she conducted a little lending library. Later we were to be her neighbors and carne to know her family and grandchildren.

Of course the summer was not complete without the wandering organ grinder, with attendant monkey. And I particularly remember my pleasure when I heard a voice calling, "Honey, honey in the comb." And around the corner carne the honey man pushing a cart, one section filled with strained honey, the other with the comb.

There were always the wandering Syrians with silks, or rugs, and little baskets of sweet grass for your sewing, or handkerchiefs.

There are so many 'Sconset people from those early days one should recall. Jim Coffin I have mentioned. There was Ed too, his brother, with whom we often rode.

One of the people I remember with affection and respect was Henry Coffin whose big farm with grazing sheep stretched away westward from back of the Golf

Links. He carne to us with vegetables in his farm wagon; he was one of the quiet, pleasant people one was glad to see.

I recall that as a little girl I was allowed to bicycle out to Mr. Coffin's horne for sweet peas which he grew in his garden.

(Why does no one grow those wonderful flowers now?) I loved them and so did my mother and, if I am right, I recall being allowed to pick the flowers, then take the bunch to Mr.Coffin for a reckoning.

Once after I had been absent some time from the island, indeed it was after my parents were gone, Mr . Coffin's farm wagon stopped at our entrance on the lane and I hurried out to greet him. "I am glad to see someone from this family back again," he said in his quiet way. It surprised and touched me.

Coffins, Pitrnans, Folgers, Morrises, their grandsons and nephews and cousins became our friends and helpers.

George Rogers in our first early years was one of the most important people in the village. He lived in a cottage on the Main Road, not far from the present Post Office, with his wife and two sons, who have become mainstays of the village life as was their father. George was very short and fair-haired-and he could mend anything! His back yard was littered with mechanical problems, as well as his workroom; in our childhood, of course, there were many bicycles. Truth to tell he was often behind in work, and when one went for one's bicycle, inquiry was met with "I've been so busy, I haven't gotten to it yet." He also took care of summer houses

in winter, closed and opened them for the owners, an important function in the life of that day-and today. When my father bought the house on the bluff for us, George was our caretaker. He was a loyal and sympathetic friend, and I remember with gratitude his help in the house on the day of my father's death in October, 1916.

But as I think back on those long summers, I savor in memory the sense of peace, of fresh sweet air-of growing things, sun drenched, giving off subtle odors-bay, sweet fern; of the masses of wild roses; and with all the visual loveliness was always the rhythmic sound of the surf.

"Sound and sweet airs,-that give delight and hurt not."

In the deep stillness of the night that sea sound carried one on it and sometimes one might sense a different tone, as the tide along the shore changed.

The nights were beautiful-there was space to stand and look up at the heavens, the brilliant stars-and no street lights glared into your eyes, or contended with the light of the sky.

On little journeys from house to house at night, or to the weekly dance at the Casino, one carried a little lantern to light the way. Some of these were oil lanterns.

A simpler affair was a candle in the glass shade. Such lanterns were part of household equipment. So also was the yellow oil skin coat and oil skin hat, essential in bad storms.

In those years just before World War I the village of 'Sconset was more socially active. There were tennis matches with Town-for the casino courts were popular.

And there were good players from the Yacht Club in Town and we thought dazzling players among our young men. Snap shots show many of my friends in neat white skirts to the ankle and sailor blouses. Sunbonnets were fashionable for girls at that time and turn up in old photographs.

It was in those pre-war years that a 'Sconset institution was founded. Miss Agnes Everett, a singer and actress, a loveable woman and great favorite, was inspired to take two ancient little houses,

47

across the road from the Casino, attach them, decorate them, and open what in those days was called a "tea room." She called it The Chanticleer.

I do not recall that at first anything elaborate in the way of food was attempted. Tea was served, and let me advise you that ladies and gentlemen and boys and girls in those far off days really drank tea, particularly if accompanied by delightful sandwiches and cakes. Probably Agnes served light lunches. But the important point is The Chanticleer was a success and continued to be so. One thing Agnes introduced was the ice cream cone. I have a clear memory of going there on a fine summer morning with my brother Tom and buying cones which we ate strolling along toward Pump Square. I guess this to be about 1908, for I have read a letter of that same brother in his first year at Yale, describing his first experience with that now so common and publicly absorbed delicacy.

Of course the ''Chanti" was handy to run over to from the Casino porch at an evening dance. And it soon became an institution.

So the years rolled peacefully on--or so they seem in retrospect-unti11914.

We were still the happy, faraway land; still we barred the automobile. Still we read by lamp light in 'Sconset though certainly there were electric plants in a few homes and households in Town had gas; hotels electricity.

The first train to 'Sconset, 1909.

48

It was difficult to recall 'Sconset in those years between 1914 and 1917. One's memory focuses on the agitation in the cities, Washington, the War. But in October of 1916 my father died in our summer home in 'Sconset. In May 1917 my brother Tom enlisted and was soon in camp in Texas near San Antonio.

Such changes in families were the experience of the War. The little yellow train that had served Nantucket so well was no more. There was a rumor the "rolling stock" had been sent to France. Difficult experiments in transportation had been made, none very successful. In 1917 a petition was circulated among property holders, to drop the ban on the automobile. It was argued that the townspeople were suffering hardships; it was difficult to get patients from 'Sconset to the hospital in Town, at times.

So- Pandora's box was opened.

When, after the war, we began to come back to the island, we found the cottages creeping up the north bluff toward the light. Houses were springing up on the west side of our lane-Baxter Road.

Houses were appearing on the rising land at the back of the village.

And while the cars were now common, they were not as yet the inflictions they are today. But to my dismay I found that the Town Fathers had allowed Broadway in 'Sconset to be the main road north for incoming vehicles. So farewell grassy walks and peaceful little streets. And the

sightseeing busses were plying their trade and romanticizing parts of the innocent village as the" Actors Colony."

What a pity! If they had looked ahead they might have planned a main entrance through a road constructed back of the village to connect with Atlantic Avenue. The ancient village of 'Sconset with the rare examples of architecture might have been saved for walkers an d lovers o f the antique. But few communities in our country have had the foresight to prevent desolating changes wrought by the increasing power of the gas engine!

One afternoon I was loafing alo ne on the verandah of our house when Margaret Fawcett raced up the path to the steps calling "Alice, Alice come look-bulldozers are tearing down all t he brush o n our Sunset Hill-they ar e rolling up the moors-how can we stop them?"

It was true. There they were. It was the beginning of preparation for the new golf links. There was no stopping this change.

Soon a handsom e big club h ouse crowned the highest hill-across from Sankaty Light-and the 18 hole course spread away along the Pol pis Road. It was soon popular with Nantucket golfers as well as 'Sconseters.

But it seemed to me from that time on the rush to build on the north bluff increased. Houses ap peared on Baxter Lane. Front lots were bought and filled, the open field disappeared.

The casual informality of life was dis-

The 'Sconset train station.

appearing too. With the car came more contact with Town. The little old meat market of Mr. Burgess had long since gone. Shops increased in Town and so, shopping there by 'Sconseters . A few Town shops did deliver in 'Scon set.

Electricity appeared in some of the 'Sconset houses.

Social life was more organized ; "events" at the Casino, or the golf club claimed more attention. Afternoon teas and evening bridge parties, and big private dances at the Casino assumed importance in those post-war years.

There was one event of national significance that seemed to me to have more impact on 'Sconset life, than perhaps the introduction of the automobile: Prohibition. While I have no clear recollection of much drinking before World War I, it seemed to me that defiance of the foolish law during and after the war became the fashion. The cocktail assumed importance. Friends from Pennsylvania were popular because they could get "AppleJack"-which, if gin was not available made a good drink. The afternoon cocktail party began to take over as the preferred form of entertainment. And as night follows day, the hip pocket flask and the reckless driver appeared as inevitable phenomena.

In that period during and following World War I the character of life on the whole island changed. There were more people, more houses. In 'Sconset there was first one new hotel, The Beach House, then another, the Moby Dick. The old

Ocean View had closed and been remodeled as a home. Much of the old easy, casual life had gone.

There is no doubt that the discovery of 'Sconset's charms by actors and the settlement among us of several members of that profession had enriched local life in many ways. Their presence had attracted the affiliated arts, writers, critics, musicians.

For a short term of years in the twenties a focus of these interests was the Tavern on the Moors, conducted by Fred Howe.

Mr. Howe was a liberal, with acquaintances among writers, lecturers, "intellectuals" and people of the artistic world. He took over a large barn, the property of Charles Pitman, on sloping land toward the west side of 'Sconset, near the moors; at least they were within sight! On the first floor he created a restaurant of sorts. The second he made into a hall where meetings were held, lectures given. Living arrangements were provided nearby.

The institution was a success of sorts and did undoubtedly attract writers and speakers and enlivened the local scene considerably. I have among letters from my brother Tom two written to Ernest Boyd, a New York critic and writer . In one, my brother invites Mr. Boyd to be his guest at the Tavern as the family was that summer temporarily housed in a very small, uncomfortable cottage. In a second very amusing letter to lloyd, after the latter's visit, my brother, Tom, mentions some of the special visitors to the Tavern.

Of course by the period of the 20's travel to the Island was easier. The New

York,New Haven and Hartford in summer ran a daily special-the Cape Codder, with cars that were switched off at Providence for Woods Hole. One left the Grand Central Terminal at 42nd Street in New York at 9:30 in the morning and at Woods Hole caught the afternoon boat. Also there was the night Cape Codder on weekends-the midnight to Boston with cars that switched off at Providence for Woods Hole; so you caught a morning boat to the Island.

People going in early spring to the Island, before these summer schedules, took the Owl to Boston, breakfasted in South Station, and boarded a comfortable morning train which ambled down the Cape to Woods Hole.

Really, travel in the pre-aeroplane period was more comfortable!

'Sconset in the twenties.

Let these remembrances stop there; before the airfield was established at Nobadeer, before the sound of practice guns from the Cape, before the onrush of the War to Save--what was it we were to save that time? Or end?

'Sconset in the twenties still had some of the happy, casual, peaceful air of the '90s-if one stayed close to shore; the water, the sea, was still there, clean and sparkling, the air still fresh and salty.

'Sconset of the twenties still offered us stretches of moors untouched by wheels of cars-and Henry Coffin's sheep still grazed.

Indeed in Nantucket of the twenties it was still possible to drive to an empty, clear stretch on many sections of beach along the south shore-without encountering a human soul, and dressing carefully in the shelter of brush or your vehicle, to swim in surf, and sun on clean sandswithout the benefit of lifeguards.

In 'Sconset of the twenties one walked out of the house, without locking door or window.

In 'Sconset of the twenties, at least on the north bluff, nights were peaceful, the surf still murmured.

And in September the air was rich with the scents so loved-the bay, fern, the wild pepper-and on many a trellis or porch hung the white trailing vines of clematis, whose scent evokes a time, a place, a peace now vanished.

49

Sponsors of the Centennial Issue of HISTORIC NANTUCKET

Past â&#x20AC;˘

Present

&

I

Capturing Nantucket's graciousness with tbe gentility of a bygone era.

congratulates the NHA on its centennial.

50

Sponsors of the Centennial Issue of HISTORIC NANTUCKET

Past

&

Present

51

Sponsors of the Centennial Issue of HISTORIC NANTUCKET

Past

&

Present

â&#x20AC;¢896~CHOR INN 1Jj!

66 CENTRE STREET

From Captain Hammond in 1806 to the Gilbreths in the 1950's, Anchor Inn congratulates the NHA on its CentenniaL

52

Sponsors of the Centennial Issue of HISTORIC NANTUCKET

Past

&

Present

Established 1968 508 I 228-1080

54 Main Street

Nantucket Pharmacy

&Fountain congratulates the NHA on its Centennial!

C(fO

We've been gratefUlly serving the isidnd at 45 Main Street since 1935.

COMPLETE PRESCRIPTION & HEALTH CARE SERVICE

53

Sponsors of the Centennial Issue of HISTORIC NANTUCKET

Past

54

&

Present

Sponsors of the Centennial Issue of HISTORIC NANTUCKET

Past

&

Present

55

Sponsors of the Centennial Issue of

HISTORIC NANTUCKET

Past

&

Present

· Tbe Folger Hotel a11o CotttlBes

Congratufations on your lOOtli year!

56

Sponsors of the Centennial Issue of

HISTORIC NANTUCKET

Past

Present

&

Jared Coffin's House 1845 .. .

The Ocean House 1857 .. .

"Proudly Maintaining the Historical Perspective ofa Gentler Time . .. "

·~·

JareJ C~ft:~ J{ouse An Historic Island Inn Open All Year

CRABTREE

&EVELYN o11"·

I~ C!enlfbc§lred. O'liutladd

14 CENTRE STREET • NANTUCKET

57

-

An 1849 Trip In August 1849, Mr. Joseph Beal of Kingston, Rhode Island, his wife, Pamela, and their traveling companion, Mrs. Holmes, embarked from New Bedford on an excursion to Nantucket. Joseph, a lively correspondent, sent a detailed account of their trip to his "dear sister."

We are fortunate to have that letter preserved in the Samuel Haynes Jenks Correspondence at the Nantucket Atheneum.

This is an excerpt from Joseph's letter.

he weather was exactly what one would wish to have on the water, being a light southerly breeze with the sun just covered with thin clouds and the water smooth as a river all the way. Mrs. Holmes, Pamela & I sat on the hurricane deck all the passage and had a beautiful view of the headlands & islands on the course. We touched at Woods & Holmes's Hole to land and take passengers which made a pleasant variety on the way. After leaving Holmes's Hole we dined at 12112.

T

58

Seeing some of the knowing ones slyly slipping off to the cabin I took Mrs. H & P with me and on reaching the table found a good part of the seats occupied & the Capt. requested those who were already there to move a little farther down and gave Mrs. H & P seats on his right & I took one on his left and those who came after waited till the second table. The Capt. was very polite as in duty bound, but did the honors with a grace that showed he was as much gratified as his company. Our

bill of fare which father always wants to know was Roast Beef, d 0 Mutton, d 0 Goose, d° Chicken and all the fixins of the season - followed by apple pies & custard upon neither of which did I venture and was not surprised when my right hand man announced that the custard "had turned." An abundance of very sweet peaches almonds and raisins sufficed to pass off our half hour very easily, when we went on deck again to enjoy the fine breeze and and now distant views of

to Nantucket I've preserved his idiosyncratic spelling and punctuation as they appear in the letter because they give the flavor of the times. Where faded ink and cramped handwriting make a word illegible I have indicated in brackets my best guess as to what he wrote. Joseph's account of dining at the Captain's table makes one yearn for the days before fast food and snack bars, or, considering the fate of the peach-eating lady, perhaps it doesn't. . . . Susan Beegel

the land. The passengers were all seated in little squads as they appeared to be acquainted and made all together a merry set. We noticed one Lady who contrived to eat peaches for a long time after dinner as she sat upon deck and her husband dealt them out to her without measure, till as you'd expect she began to feed Mother Cary's Chickens with her whole dinner.

The only incident that seemed to attract the attention of all on board was the letting off of two carrier pigeons when about

fifteen miles from the island, which they are training for special occasions to send news in case of need. Away they went direct for New Bedford [inland] of the island nearly as far as we could see them, when they turned and soon swept past the boat and disappeared towards the island.

When we came in sight of the wharves we could see them crowded with natives and on landing were met by Mrs. Shiverick & a Miss Brawley, sister of Mr. Josiah Brawley who is visiting Mrs. Folger &

leaving our baggage in care of the omnibus driver we soon found ourselves in the hospitable [mansions] of Mrs. Folger, who was at the door to welcome us; and right glad did she seem to see us all & particularly Mrs. H .

Special thanks to Barbara Andrews, Librarian Emerita of the Atheneum, for identifying the Beals and Mrs. Holmes.

59

"NHA Is Here to Stay" Song written by Julia Kuratek, Katelyn Flahive, and Jim Sulzer

Chorus: NHA is here to stay One hundred years old today.

We learn about our history, it solves some of Nantucket's mysteries.

Nantucket has its oldest gaol, Its oldest house too.

It has its windmill on the hill But the old ghosts don 't say "boo," But the old ghosts don 't say "boo."

Repeat Chorus Nantucket has its special way of showing its beauty too.

It has its nice old-fashioned ways But the old ghosts don 't say "boo," But the old ghosts don't say "boo."

Jim Sulzer performing "Nantucket Is Here to Stay" with Nantucket Elementary School

Repeat Chorus

Photo: Rob Benchley /The Nantucket Beacon

students.

Katelyn Flahive and second grader Julia Kuratek wrote these lyrics. Sulzer then composed a melody to accompany the words, but the writers didn't like it.

"They were tough critics," according to

antucket schools have done their part in making this NHA centennial summer a special one. With the help of music teacher Jim Sulzer, third grader

N

Sulzer, who add s that the seco nd draft was well received . A chorus of 28 elementary school stud ents then reco rded the song, which was subsequently broadcast on radio station WRZE-FM.

--~-.,.._....,.....~.~'l

THE .BOS:!'ON _SUNJ;>AY GLOBE-JULY 23, 1922

r!';~~~~ - ~- ~-~~~ ~~.~-~~~~~i»i~~~ ·. ;::;.~, ;::; ~-~:~~ - ~-~~ ~~-~--~~ --:~ --~~~11~~b.~~~mm '

---

..

.. ·-

!I There'~ an Old Oaken Bucket in Old Nantucket I by ~].

I , LWord's by

Alfred Bryan

.

.·

.

. & usic

by

P ete. Wend.!in_r -. ·' _:

. _ .· . . ·

.

Arr.

D ell L amp"

~:il~i'?.m"...m~~~~~.o~~~~ 'iiii.iism:u;'i!H~Nmll

[V

Thrt 'f'~ - ol~

oa ken

b~t; ktl

in

old

~•o~ tutktt

\\"aydowzrin old

Nl.Q.~vd:.-! " by

n

"•

.

. - lftfll

tllt 1

I

l?.$1114» riJ:hl·from tbtwtU of old li me lllt'CDO~. ry And in that 0~ ~ ~~ftl Hu~~ _ ~/ ol~ _!u.•. '

~

1

T

Hilt !btl moss. y wt U whtrt I drank fir st- an AIId my hurl is Uke lht lhips l_hal /ly A ~

always lud mt homrway ou1 on lht foa m -

Music sheet appearing in the Boston Sunday Globe, July 23, 1922.

60

Nantucket Harbor- 1894 Centennial Raffle. Tickets for the raffle will be on sale all during this centennial summer and the winning ticket will be drawn at the annual Christmas Party.

Greg Hill and his wife, Judy, first came to Nantucket in June of 1978 to visit the gallery that was representing his work and to prepare for an upcoming exhibit. His reputation as a fine painter of fogshrouded harbors and precisely detailed whaling ships was already wellestablished. He had been living and painting in the town of Lahaina on the Hawaiian island of Maui, a port familiar to Nantucket whalers of long ago, and, over time, the Hills developed a special affinity for this island.

That attraction led them to open the G. S. Hill Gallery on Old South Artist G. S. Hill at work on "Nantucket HarborWharf, where it has been in opera1894." He has referred to photographs from the NHA tion for the past sixteen years. archives to ensure the authenticity of the scene.

During the summers he lived Photo: Sybille Stillger Andersen and worked here, Greg Hill came to his original oil on linen canvas has know and respect Nantucket historian been donated to the NHA by highly Edouard A. Stackpole. "Nantucket is forregarded Nantucket artist G. S. Hill. It is tunate to have had so many custodians of the prize featured in the Association's its past and present as knowledgeable and

T

dedicated as was Mr. Stackpole," he says.

"We watched Lahaina deteriorate to a degree that has not and will not happen here, thanks to men like him. That is why I am pleased to donate this painting to the Centennial Raffle. All of the proceeds from this event will be given to the Stackpole papers archiving project. It's our way of giving back some of the special qualities of life that Nantucket has given to us."

Mr. and Mrs. Hill at their gallery on Old South Wharf.

Photo: Sybille Stillger Andersen

The Association Staff hese are the dedicated people who work hard and conscientiously to ensure that your membership dues, donations, and contributions are put to the best and most efficient use to maintain and further the Association's mission. Say hello the next time you meet one of us here on Nantucket. We would like to know you, too.

T

Front Row: Amy Saunders, Membership Coordinator; Peter MacGlashan, Photo Archivist; Lisa Rance,Centennial Events Coordinator; Valerie Ryder, Finance Manager; Maureen Dwyer (partially hidden), Collections Manager; Dorrit Gutterson, Receptionist; Michael Jehle, Curator.

Back Row: Doug Burch, Editor; C. Marshall Beale, Executive Director; Jeremy Slavitz, Docent Coordinator; Rick Morcom, Curator of Structures; Betsy Tyler, Librarian; Brad Johnson, Intern.

Missing from photo: Tom Dickson, Museum Shop Manager.

Photo: Sybille Stillger Andersen

61

Important special exhibitions are among the attractions highlighting NHA's Centennial Celebration. Three of the Association's museums house these unique presentations, each one of which is well worth your visit.

Special Centennial Exhibitions "Aspects and Aspirations:100 Years of Collecting by the Nantucket Historical T Association," he Thomas Macy Warehouse is home to

a small sampling of the priceless items that have been donated to the NHA in each decade of the past century. A partial reconstruction of the Association's first exhibition is the feature of this display. The items from the 1895 show, including the same exhibit cases that held them a century ago, are only part of the fascinating collection of art, artifacts, and manuscripts that the NHA has, over the years, acquired and carefully collected and preserved.

antucket lightship baskets, probably the most widely recognized (and imitated) of indigenous island crafts, are the subject of "The Lightship Baskets of Nantucket: A Continuing Craft" exhibition in the Fair Street Museum. The show includes a large collection of old baskets, some of which were woven by crew members aboard the South Shoal Lightship, together with examples of the craft as it is practiced on the island today. Funding for this exhibition and for the full-color catalog accompanying it was provi ded by the Nantucket Lightship Basket Makers & Merchants Association.

David Wood is the guest curator.

N

Nantucket lightship baskets. previously unexplored facet of island history is the subject of the Centennial Summer feature at the Peter Foulger Museum. Although the island is perhaps best known as the whaling capital of the world, Nantucket was also involved in this country's early trade with the Far East in the years following the Revolutionary War. Nantucketers gathered sealskins off the rugged coast of South America which they traded in Canton for tea and silk; they also acquired a wealth of paintings, porcelains, lacquerware, and other curiosities. Some of the best examples of Chinese export art and decorative arts to have survived from that era can be seen here. The catalog of the exhibition, with color plates and other illustrations, includes a comprehensive text; it will be available at the museum and in local bookstores. Following its presentation here, the exhibit will travel to New York City and to Rochester, New York, before returning to Nantucket for the summer of 1995. Michael Jehle is curator of the exhibition and author of the catalog, both of which were made possible by a gift from Mr. and Mrs. Thomas H. Gosnell.

"From Brant Point to the Boca Tigris: Nantucket and the A China Trade,"

62

Chinese Hong merchant Chung Qua, oil on canvas by Spoilum, c. 1804.

I

'

'

Thank You ...

' .

\''.

he Nantucket Historical Association marks its one hundredth anniversary during 1994 with a calendar of events that began in April and continues throughout the year.

The mission of the NHA is "to encourage the appreciation of Nantucket's unique history by collecting, preserving, presenting, and interpreting to the public artifacts, documents, and real property."

The members of the NHA's Centennial Committee began planning for this year's festivities in the spring of 1993 . The Centennial Committee chairs, Mr. and Mrs. Richard Brecker and Mr. and Mrs. Scott Stearns, along with many others, laid the groundwork for what will be a memorable celebration.

NHA President Kim Corkran, Executive Director Mark Beale, and Curator Michael Jehle, designed a calendar of events that includes three major exhibits, a series of lectures and a Main Street Fete.

The centennial events are planned to show Nantucket residents and summer visitors what the NHA has to offer by sharing its history and the making of history.

The NHA's eleven museums and historic houses portray daily life on Nantucket as it was in past eras. Many of the events planned for this year will take place at these different properties. During the past months, the NHA staff and volunteers have been working together to organize these events. The support we have received from the community has been overwhelming. The Chamber of Commerce, Visitor Services, and Nantucket schools have focused on this year's celebration.

Many organizations have joined in helping to sponsor several events and exhibitions. The list is a long one. We thank American Express, Nantucket Basketmakers Association, Pacific National Bank, Chase Manhattan Bank, Winthrop Hotels & Resorts, the Nantucket Chamber of Commerce, and Visitor Services. Individual sponsorship has also been very generous, as has the business community in supporting this centennial issue of Historic Nantucket .

Local media have been very helpful.

Many thanks to the Inquirer and Mirror, the Nantucket Beacon, Yesterday's Island,

T

'·

~~~·

NANTUCKET HISTORICAL AssociATION CENTENNIAL CELEBRATION 1994 CALENDAR OF EVENTS

July9 HAPPY BIRTHDAY NHA

• All NHA properties open free to the public • Main Street Fete. Activities 10 AM to 4 PM, Main Street • China Trade Preview Party. 6 to 8 PM, Peter Foulger Museum

July 10

China Trade Exhibit opens at the Peter Foulger Museum

July 23

Centennial Ball at the Sankaty Head Golf Club

August 11

Antiques Show Preview Party. 6 to 8 PM, Nantucket High School

August 12- 14

Antiques Show. 10 AM to 5 PM, Nantucket High School

August (TBA)

Nantucket Historical Association Celebrity Forum and Lecture

August 27

Tall Ships Gam Jam. 8 PM, Whaling Museum

October 13

Lecture by David Lazarus. 7:30 PM. Whaling Museum

October 15

Cranberry Fest Gam. 4:30PM, Whaling Museum

October 28

Ghost Gam, Nantucket Ghost Stories. 8 PM, Whaling Museum

November 25

Historian/ Musician Tom Goux, Songs of the Sea. 4 PM, Whaling Museum

December3

Festival of Trees at the Thomas Macy Warehouse

Become a Centennial Patron ""rl\e special centennial exhibit at the 1 Thomas Macy Warehouse, Aspects and

Aspirations: 100 Years of Collecting by the Nan tucket Historical Association, celebrates a century of generosity that has helped m ake the NHA's collection of art and artifa cts one of the best in southern New England.

In the spirit of this proud history of giving, one of the best ways you can help to commemorate our centennial year is

through a gift to our collection. If you are part of an island family or a collector of Nantucket history and memorabilia, we hope you will consider donating an important piece of art or a significant artifact to the Association. Through such gifts we may continue to preserve Nantucket's history for generations to come.

For information about how you may become a Centennial Patron, call or write Michael Jehle, NHA Curator.

Map & Legend, Cape Cod Times, Nantucket Magazine, and WRZE-96.3 FM. -Lisa Rance

63

July 1895 Main Street following the conclusion of Nantucket's Centennial/Bicentennial Celebration. The bandstand has been removed from Main Street Square, but the sentiment expressed by the NHA on the banner bridging Centre Street in 1895 remains the same today: "Pride in the Past; Hope for the Future."