Proceedings of the Nantucket Historical Association: Fifty-second Annual Meeting

>000000000<X>00000<X>0000<>000000000000,

PROCEEDINGS of the NANTUCKET HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION

§

x*X

si J/®/

S Fifty-Second Annual Meeting 1946 "The William F. Macy Memorial" "Nantucket and Its Quakers in 1722"—Cadbury "An Exile From Home"—Hussey "The Great Fire of 1846"—Stackpole

13 18 25 35

000000000000000000000000000000000000

PROCEEDINGS of the NANTUCKET HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION

Fifty-Second Annual Meeting 1946

A VIEW OF THE OLD GAOL ON VESTAL STREET. Said to have been built in Revolutionary times, the Old Gaol is known to have been placed on this site in 1805. The walls are of logs, boarded and shingled, and the heavy walls and strong iron bars made it quite formidable.

OFFICERS 1946-1947. ooooo PRESIDENT

Edouard A. Stackpole VICE PRESIDENTS

Mrs. Walton H. Adams Everett U. Crosby Miss Grace Brown Gardner

William E. Gardner Bassett Jones Col. Louis J. Praeger

SECRETARY

Mrs. Oscar B. Eger TREASURER

Mrs. Elizabeth B. Worth AUDITORS

Miss Cora Stevens

Col. Louis J. Praeger COUNCILLORS Term Expires

Mrs. William H. Barney

1947

William C. Brock

1947

John J. Gardner, 2d

1948

Edward P. Tice

1948

Lawrence B. Cummings

1949

Mrs. Elkins Hutaff

1949

Burnham N. Dell

1950

Clinton T. Macy

1950

LIFE COUNCILLORS

Mrs. Annie Allen Folger Edward F. Sanderson Harry B. Turner

Membership ooooo You are cordially invited to become a member of the NANTUCKET HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION. Our membership classes are: Life Membership, $15.00; Sustaining Membership, $5.00; Annual Membership, $1.00 annually. An initiation fee of $1.00 is charged for each new active membership.

The NANTUCKET HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION is an organization devoted to the preservation of the Island's famed past. Because of Nantucket's importance in the American Whaling industry, its history is a vital chapter in the larger maritime history of the United States. There is no place in America quite like old Nantucket Town—the birthplace of American deep-sea whaling.

Your support of our Association enables us to preserve this whaling tradition. It allows us to carry on the work of maintaining our exhibits—the Whaling Museum, the Fair Street Museum and Friends Meeting House, The Old Mill, the Oldest House, and our newest acquisitions, the Old Gaol and House of Industry.

THE RECORD OF 50 YEARS ooooo May 9, 1894—The Association was organized in "the west parlor of the westernmost of the three brick (Starbuck) houses" on Main street, the home of Mrs. Elizabeth Starbuck.

The first officers were: Vice Presidents, Rev. Myron S. Dudley -and Henry S. Wyer; Recording Secretary. Miss Mary E. Starbuck; Corresponding Secretary, Miss Susan A. Starbuck; Treasurer, Alexander H. Seaverns; Councillors, Mrs. Maria T. Swain, Mrs. Elizabeth C. Bennett, Mrs. Judith J. Fish, Miss Susan E. Brock; Rev. Edward C. Gardner, Wendell Macy, and Arthur H. Gardner.

July 9, 1894—Incorporated by the Commonwealth of Massachusetts.

The same year the Association bought the Friends Meeting House on Fair Street for $1,000. Here were assembled ex­ hibits and here were held the meetings of the Association and the Council.

August 4, 1897 At a public auction, with a record attendance, held on: Main street's lower square, the Old Mill was sold to the Association for $885. As the Association did not have that total amount, Miss Caroline L. French, by a gift of $135, made up the full amount.

July 21, 1904—The corner stone of a new "fire-proof building" was laid adjacent to the Friends Meeting House.

October 31, 1923—The Oldest House was bought for $3500. Winthrop Coffin, of Boston, a descendant of Tristram Coffin, generously financed the restoration, which was done under the super­ vision of Alfred F. Shurrocks and William Sumner Appleton.

July 24, 1930—The Whaling Museum was formally opened in the "Old Candle House" on Broad street. This brick building had been purchased by Edward F. Sanderson, and with the adjacent land cost $35,000. With the purchase, Mr. Sanderson made generous gifts to the Association of his unexcelled col­ lection of whaling implements, books, papers, etc., and also waived payment of taxes and interest.

The Association is greatly indebted to the late William F. Macy, president (1924-1935) for his active work over a period of years in raising the money to make this purchase possible. The first custodian was the late George A. Grant, whose whaling experience and lore was invaluable in fitting the Museum into its present shipshape characteristics.

August 16, 1946—The Association was deeded the Old Gaol, built in 1805, and the House of Correction, first erected at Quaise in 1826, and moved to its present location in 1854.

-S{7>

Annual Meeting

T

HE FIFTY-SECOND annual meeting of the Nantucket Historical

Association was held at the Friends Meeting House on Tuesday afternoon, July 30, 1946, with some two hundred interested members and friends in attendance. Following a few words of wel­ come from the presiding officer, President Edouard A. Stackpole, the reports of the Secretary, Mrs. Oscar B. Eger, and Treasurer, Mrs. Elizabeth B. Worth, were read and approved. Mrs. Eger's report showed that there are now a total of 765 members, of which 630 are annual members, 113 life members, and 22 sustaining members. Mrs. Worth's report showed total receipts for the year as $10,560.59, in which total is included a cash balance of $1,583.42 from last year's accounts and a legacy of $2,710.01 from the Frank R. Barnard estate.

Next in order of business came the report of the Nominating Committee, which was read by William H. Tripp, of New Bedford.

Officers elected for 1946-1947 are as follows: PRESIDENT—Edouard A. Stackpole.

VICE-PRESIDENTS—Mrs. Walton H. Adams, Everett U. Crosby,

Miss Grace Brown Gardner, Dr. William E. Gardner, Bassett Jones, Col. Louis J. Praeger.

SECRETARY—Mrs. Oscar B. Eger.

TREASURER—Mrs. Elizabeth B. Worth.

COUNCILLORS—(until 1950)—Burnham N. Dell, Clinton T. Macy.

AUDITORS—Miss Cora Stevens, Col. Louis J. Praeger.

*

*

*

*

*

It being a year of several notable anniversaries, President Stackpole made a few remarks concerning those outstanding. He referred to the Old Mill, erected in 1746, observing its 200th an­ niversary, and the "Great Fire of 1846," which broke out shortly before midnight on July 13, 1846. Concerning this great conflagration he mentioned that it had caused a total damage of over $1,000,000; it destroyed one-third of the town, including the entire business district and three of the wharves; and it put hundreds of men out of work. He went on to describe the after-effects of the fire, and read a Nantucket editor's reply to certain gloomy prophets of one hundred years ago, in which he had stated: "Nantucket is not on any lee shore she will sail on and prosper." *

*

*

*

*

Among other events of the year, Mr. Stackpole described the -6( 8 ]§•

dedication of the "William F. Macy Memorial" at the Whaling Museum last fall. The Memorial is in the form of a ship's stern board, carved and prepared by the well known New York craftsman Geoffrey Wiggins, and was presented the Association by Bassett Jones. The speaker for the occasion was William H. Tripp, Curator of the New Bedford Whaling Museum, a member of our Association, and a close friend of the late Mr. Macy. In the course of his remarks Mr. Tripp had stated in part: "Through the tireless interest and ceaseless efforts of William F. Macy, the Nantucket Whaling Museum became a reality, and in this institution alone he created a memorial to his life's work."

•

*

•

*

*

Among those called upon to rise and "take a bow" during the meeting were Mrs. Walton H. Adams, a Vice President, formerly the Association's Curator for many years; Dr. William E. Gardner, author of "Three Bricks and Three Brothers" and Chairman of the Whaling Museum, and Dr. Thomas E. Drake, Curator of the Quaker Collection of Haverford College, who was one of the speakers last year.

William H. Tripp, also present, being one who regularly comes to the island each year for the meeting, was called upon to say a few words, and responded with his customary readiness.

Everett U. Crosby, whose books on various Nantucket subjects include "Ninety-Five Per Cent Perfect," "Books and Baskets, Signs and Silver," "Eastman Johnson on Nantucket," was then introduced.

He had been asked to tell something of his latest study on island history—"Nantucket in Print." This volume is an invaluable addition to Nantucket lore as it contains descriptions of the first maps of the island, references to the earliest writings on Nantucket, reprints of little-known and hard-to-find articles on Nantucket, and a complete copy of Peter Folger's "A Looking Glass of the Times," of which only one original copy is known to exist today. Besides these rarities, Mr. Crosby's volume contains a complete bibliography of Nantucket books and writings. *

*

*

*

*

The speaker of the afternoon was Dr. Alfred Rodman Hussey, of Plymouth, a retired Unitarian clergyman, who is of Nantucket an­ cestry. Dr. Hussey read a paper entitled: "An Exile From Home."

It was a most delightful paper, scholarly and well documented, being the story of Elizabeth Barker Rotch, who was born on Nantucket in 1749, married here to Benjamin Rotch, (son of the famous William Rotch), and in 1787 sailed from Nantucket to spend the rest of her long life in France and England, where she died in 1753, aged 94.

Dr. Hussey had prepared his paper from family letters written

by Mrs. Rotch, from the memoirs of her daughter, Mrs. Farrar,

and from the Bullard monographs on the Rotch family. In tracing the life of his "heroine," the speaker took his listeners with him from Nantucket to Dunkirk, thence to London, then Wales, and back to London again. The experiences which enriched the life of this re­ markable woman made the history of her time more understandable, and provided a most enjoyable forty minutes.

Dr. Hussey spoke of his island forebears, and gave an interest­ ing account of his visit here, as a young boy with his mother, in August, 1881. As a highlight of that visit he recalled attending a Friends Meeting in the same room where he now stood. Something of the atmosphere of that Quaker gathering of sixty-five years ago came to his listeners as he gave his recollection of that meeting.

The full text of Dr. Hussey's paper will be found in this issue of the Proceedings. *

*

*

*

*

Announcement of the newest acquisitions of the Association— the Old Gaol and House of Correction—was made by the President.

These structures, on Vestal street, have long been land-marks within the town. Condemned as penal institutions, they were falling into disrepair, and it would have been a matter of only a few years before they would become ruins. An article was inserted in the Town Meeting Warrant in February, requesting a town meeting vote to deed the property to the Association. This was accomplished and the deed to the two structures and the land was conveyed in August, the delay being occasioned by reason of surveys.

Just when the Old Gaol was built is a matter for conjecture. A number of trained observers believe it is an 18th century structure, but the first written record is of 1805. The House of Correction was built originally at the Quaise Town Farm in 1826, and removed in sections to its present site in 1854. Considerable work must be done— both in renovation and restoration. Frederick P. Hill, dean of our Nantucket architects, has volunteered to help with the plans. *

*

*

*

*

Just before adjournment, David Wood, a Council member, read a letter written by the famous Nantucket woman astronomer Maria Mitchell, a hundred years ago. Mr. Wood had obtained the letter from a Boston collector only a few weeks before, and wished to share his pleasure in it with the meeting.

The meeting adjourned a few minutes before 5:00 o'clock.

Report of The Secretary Mr. President, Members and Friends of the Nantucket Historical Association: Each year the day that brings us together in this historic Quaker Meeting-house—so full of memories and pleasant associations—is more welcome. The Annual Meeting of The Nantucket Historical Associa­ tion continues to hold a place of its own in our Island community as shown by the audience here today.

As our Association grows older and annual reports multiply, the story of routine business may seem to be the same from year to year, but in reality it is not. Each year brings its peculiar problems and calls forth in its own way special attention and enthusiasm.

The reports of the officers of the Association should necessarily be a pleasant task, since we are always assured a ready response of approval from members at home and abroad. In fact, this very ap­ proval made our former officers optimistic in those early days of our commencement, and was a strong force in making our Association what it is today—a living, prosperous one of which we are all proud.

The most important work which we are accomplishing is shown naturally in the reports of our treasurer and committee chairman.

In this year and in coming years our desire is for increased member­ ship, additions to our fine collections, and a growing interest among old and young—islanders and off-islanders. Last but not least, we look to the continual renewing of the spirit in which the members of our Council have always asked "how may I best serve?" **

**

**

**

• The Council during the past year has held its regular meetings for the consideration of matters relative to our work, but that re­ quires no special mention here. Seven meetings were held for neces­ sary business on Sept. 20, 1945; Oct. 24, 1945; Dec. 1, 1945; Dec. 31, 1945; March 18, 1946; April 9, 1946, and May 29, 1946. With your permission I will dispense with the summary of details concerning the business of the year.

In spite of these unsettled days of readjustment in which the world finds itself our membership continues to increase. Very grat­ ifying are the little missives which I am receiving frequently from our treasurer, which tell that several more have made the necessary deposit and have enrolled as members.

Our membership stands thus at the close of the fisal year June 30, 1946: Life Members Sustaining Members Annual Members ..

630

Total Membership

765

113 22

In connection with the above let me add, as usual, that it would be a great convenience to your secretary and treasurer to be informed promptly of any change in the address of members. It enables us to keep our files correct as well as complete.

This is the 52nd birthday of our Association—and so we press on as each year opening out before us brings something new to be accomplished and some new hope to be fulfilled.

Respectfully submitted, CATHERINE RAY EGER, Secretary.

-S{12)fr

The William F. Macy Memorial On Sunday morning', October 6, 1945, at 10:00 o'clock, a Memorial to the late William F. Macy, President of the Nantucket Historical Association from 1923 to 1935, was dedicated with appropriate exer­ cises at the Whaling Museum. The Memorial, in the form of a ship's stern-board, was presented by Bassett Jones, a Vice President of the Association, and was prepared by Geoifrey Wiggins, a famous New York craftsman.

Upon being introduced to the gathering of members and friends present for the occasion, Bassett Jones gave a short account of his part in the presentation. "My idea of an appropriate memorial to Will Macy—a teak wood ship's board—has met with the approval of all with whom I have talked regarding it," said Mr. Jones. "It is indeed fitting, both to Will Macy and to this Museum which owes its existence to his energy and planning, that we place this Memorial in this build­ ing in his honor."

The speaker for the ceremony of dedication was William H. Tripp, Curator of the New Bedford Whaling Museum, who said in part: "Ten years ago, on August 27, 1935, a leading light on Nantucket was extinguished in the passing of William F. Macy, President of the Nantucket Historical Association. He was a direct descendant in the 8th generation from Thomas Macy, the first white settler on the island. Mr. Macy was 68 years old, a native of Nantucket and the son of the late William H. Macy.

"William F. Macy was one of Nantucket's historians, and after his retirement from active business his one object in life was the growth and advancement of the Nantucket Historical Association.

During his life, Mr. Macy was a frequent contributor to the columns of The Inquirer and Mirror, using the pen name of 'Yorick.' He wrote many historical articles and, in collaboration with the late Roland B. Hussey, he issued the 'Nantucket Scrap Basket.' In 1928, Mr. Macy wrote 'The Story of Old Nantucket,' which was published by Hough­ ton, Mifflin Company Possessed of a retentive memory, he was always a pleasing entertainer before historical gatherings, church groups, men's clubs and similar organizations. He never missed an opportunity to let Nantucket's fame be known, especially in connecttion with the whaling industry.

"The first mention of the Nantucket Whaling Museum in the Annual Proceedings is at the 32nd annual meeting of the Association, held July 21st, 1926. President Macy told the members of the wonder­ ful collection of whaling implements, pictures and curios in the pos­ session of Mr. Edward F. Sanderson—of the organization of the Nan­ tucket Whaling Museum—and of the proposal of Mr. Sanderson and his associates to make our Historical Association the ultimate cus­ todian of the collection. At the 1927 Annual Meeting, President Macy <13J9>

said: 'I want to pay tribute to Mr. Sanderson for his patience and for­ bearance in waiting two years and a half for us to take up the oneyear option, and for the generous terms he has made us on the final purchase. But, we still need more money. Repairs and alterations are needed, and installing exhibits will involve considerable expense. We must continue our appeal.

"Perhaps the happiest, or certainly one of the happiest days of Mr. Macy's life was on July 24th, 1930, when the Nantucket Whaling Museum was officially dedicated. Many of you were here on that happy occasion. I well recall it. President Macy spoke informally and briefly on the work of the past year in bringing the Whaling Museum project to its successful culmination. As for himself, he had thoroughly enjoyed his part in it, and though in discouragements (and he had many in the early stages) he had many times wondered whether or not he had undertaken too much. He found in the darkest hour a new inspiration in the discovery that the initials of the 'Whaling Museum' were also the same as his own—'W. M.'—that it was up to him to keep trying. Through the tireless efforts and ceaseless energy of William F. Macy the Nantucket Whaling Museum became a reality, and in this institution alone he created a memorial to his life's work. '"One of Mr. Macy's favorite poems was called 'In Remembrance.'

The poem was written by a Nantucket man, Arthur Macy. The last verse I feel particularly fitting to William F. Macy: 'Again a parting sail we see; Another boat has left the shore.

A kinder soul on board has she, Than ever left the land before; And as her outward course she bends, Sit closer, friends!'"

With the last words of the poem, two lines were pulled, and the canvas sail-cover fell away to reveal the teak wood board, with the carved letters reading: "WILLIAM F. MACY—1867-1935."

Edouard A. Stackpole, who presided, thanked Mr. Jones and Mr. Tripp on behalf of the Nantucket Historial Association. *

*

*

*

*

Severa] anecdotes concerning Mr. Macy's life and work were recounted bj^ Mr. Jones and Mr. Tripp. One of Mr. Macy's favorite stories was repeated by Charles A. Selden. It concerned genealogical research in England a number of years ago, when a British Macy (of ancient visage)1 was approached by Mr. Macy, who hoped to secure some valuable information. "I suppose you can trace your ancestry to the original Macys in Britain?" he inquired of the old man. "I can't say as to that," was the reply. "My grandfather was shipwrecked on the Cornish coast—on a voyage from the island of Nantucket!"

«6{14J§<-

SUSP mmM r

Treasurer's Report.

«-*-»•

RECEIPTS

Cash Balance July 1, 1945: General Account—Dues, Sales, Gifts Museum Accounts: Fair Street, Admissions, Sales Whaling Museum, Admissions, Sales Oldest House, Admissions, Sales

$1,538.42 595.50 $1,178.45 2,454.90 785.75

Tax on Admissions Withheld Tax Reserve

$4,419.10 809.85 84.74

U. S. Treasury bond called and redeemed Frank R. Barnard Legacy Transfer from Portrait Restoration Fund Investments: Life Memberships Income from Investments

150.00 2,710.01 62.42 $60.00 130.55 $190.55 $10,560.59

16 53-

DISBURSEMENTS General Account: Salaries Postage, Printing, Supplies

450.00 489.32 $939.32

Museum Accounts: Fair Street, Attendants and Maintenance $1,122.67 Whaling Museum, Attendants & Maintenance 2,324.02 Oldest House, Attendants and Maintenance 382.72 Old Mill 35.20 Old Jail 125.30 Tax on Admissions Withheld Tax Miscellaneous Sales Expense Portrait Restoration Investments: Life Memberships Nantucket Institution for Savings

$3,989.91 758.20 77.20 125.50 62.42 $60.00 2,500.00 $2,560.00 2,048.04

Cash Balance, June 30, 1946

$10,560.59

ASSETS

Land and all Buildings Collections in all Museums Trust Accounts, Nantucket Institution for Savings Portrait Restoration Fund, Pacific National Bank Stocks and Bonds

$28,000.00 10,000.00 14,841.65 111.74 5,207.50

Respectfully submitted, ELIZABETH B. WORTH, Treasurer.

Audited by Miss Cora Stevens and Col. Louis J. Praeger.

Nantucket and Its Quakers in 1722.

By PROF. HENRY J. CADBURY

Among the letters preserved by Thomas Prince, the New England historian, and now in the Massachusetts Historical Society, one from his brother in 1722 tells us something about secular and "ecclesiastical" affairs in the island of Nantucket. Since impressions of the place from contemporaries are scarce, and especially scarce from non-Quakers, the passage may be worth publishing.

Nathan Prince (1698-1748) was a younger brother of Thomas whom he addresses as "Pastor of a Church in Boston," and perhaps his equal in intellectual ability. He came from Sandwich where the family had had a chance to know Quakers, and graduated from Har­ vard College in 1718. About one year each for the next five years was spent at Bristol, Plymouth, Cambridge, Westerly and Nantucket.

For the last named place the period of residence was between April, 1722, and April, 1723; his occupation apparently was that of a mission pastor. Then for two decades he was a teacher at Harvard but was so incensed that he was not chosen for a vacancy in the Hollis Professorship of Natural Philosophy that he was discharged from the faculty for his ill temper. This ill temper and spite, more than genuine conversion, led him to transfer from the Congregational to the Episcopal Church. This ill nature is not yet apparent in the rather mild text of the letter. See Sibley's Harvard Graduates, Vol. 6.

The letter is dated Nantucket, Sept. 4, 1722, and in modern spell­ ing reads in part as follows: "As to the general occurrences of the island, the outward and secular ones are what I shall give an account of and then those of an ecclesiastical and more sacred nature. As to outward and secular ones, it is a healthy time among us, and has always [been] and is now a peaceable part of te country, men generally given to industry and frugality and few poor and idle among them and each diligent in his business (without much differences and lawsuits) the most common of which are whaling and fishing on the sea. As to whaling they have made good voyages this summer having found them [whales] of late continuing all summer long about 15 or 20 leagues off in the ocean. But as to fishing they have had but poor success. As to the land: sheep and corn are the chief commodities. But this year has been very dry that their corn has not produc't what was usual though much more than what was expected.

"As to ecclesiastical affairs on the island: the people are divided

•*18>

into many sects—Quakers, Presbyterians, Baptists and some Philadelphians. The Quakers are by far the prevailing part, the Presby­ terians the next. The Quakers here are more strict and narrow in their principles than those at Sandwich and seem to be more inde­ fatigable in spreading them than most I have known. They have more of their books here I believe than in any place throughout the country of its bigness. They have a general meeting here once a year as at Sandwich, which I suppose evidences that they look on this place as a principal one among them in the country. 'Tis strange how they have increased. Twenty years ago there was scarce one and now there are several hundreds, and all proceeded from a woman (one Starbuck), turning Quaker; who being a person of note for wisdom in this place became a preacher and soon converted so many as that they formed themselves into a society and built a meeting house and became the prevailing profession of the island."

Report of The President Members and Friends of the Nantucket Historical Association: The first year of peace after four years of war has found the Association establishing new records for attendance at the various exhibits, and planning many things for the future. Our good fortune is quite in contrast with the ravages of war in Europe, which saw so many historic shrines demolished and many irreplaceable collections destroyed. Only time can tell the real story of that side of war.

Through the active work and interest of our various chairmen, and the regular meetings of the Council, the business of the Associa­ tion was progressive, keeping in step with the standards and achieve­ ments of our founders.

The several buildings of the Association and their collections have received the customary thoughtful attention. Chairman Everett U. Crosby, of the Fair Street Rooms, has continued his task of reclass­ ifying items. Electric lights have been installed and the system will be extended to provide for lighting dark corners on stormy days. A light has been placed in the vault, which was much needed. Mrs. Alma Backus and Mrs. Addison Winslow have continued their excellent work as custodians, reporting a new record in attendance this year—a total of 4,750 visitors from June 22 to September 21, 1945.

Miss Grace Brown Gardner, now one of our Vice Presidents, re­ linquished her chairmanship of the Oldest House Committee, with Clinton T. Macy—recently returned from service overseas with the U. S. Army—resuming that post. Mrs. Ellen Chace was appointed Custodian, to succeed David Wood. She reported an attendance of practically 3,500 at the House during the 1945 season. The visitors include those from almost every State in the Union as well as from foreign countries.

The Old Mill was again opened this year, after being closed dur­ ing the 1944-45 season. Having suffered damage to its vanes, there was considerable delay before the necessary piece of spruce could be obtained for repairs. Through the interest of Simon Kaufman, this wood was secured from a generous summer visitor and the work com­ pleted. Chairman Louis J. Praeger was able to secure the services of Thomas Purcell, of New York City, as custodian at the Mill, and the attendance during the season was satisfactory. There has been no grinding at the Mill due to the lack of the proper grade of corn. ** ** ** There have been numerous accessions and gifts during the year Miss Grace H. Sonfeld, of Poughkeepsie, N. Y., has presented the

Association with portraits of Keziah Coffin Fanning and her husband Phineas, and two Chippendale chairs once belonging to Capt. John Coffin—these coming from the estate of Frank B. Howard, who was a descendant of the Fannings. The Hon. L. McCormick-Goodhart, of Hyattsville, Maryland, sent in two Mitchell letters. From the estate of the late Frank Collins Baker has come a number of items which were originally owned in Nantucket, belonging in the family of Capt. Shubael Coffin, born in Nantucket in 1764, and who moved to Providence, R. I., following the Revolution. Prof. Baker was a well known authority on fresh water mollusca at the University of Illinois.

The items were sent by Mrs. Frank C. Brewer, of Hartford, Conn., a sister-in-law of Prof. Baker.

From Santa Barbara, California, has come a Macy Genealogy from Mrs. Anne A. Macy, in memory of her husband, William Starbuck Macy, who was of Nantucket descent. Born in New Bedford in 1853, Mr. Macy had a distinguished career as an artist and an art collector. He died in Santa Barbara, July 29, 1945, in his 92nd year.

Editor Harry B. Turner, of The Inquirer and Mirror, has pre­ sented several articles, including the seal of Andrew Morton, a Notary Public and Collector Customs here eighty years ago, and a portrait of the late Grand Army veteran, James H. Wood, sketched by Mary Bowditeh Forbes, whose "Lincoln Cabin" at Milton is well known.

An outstanding gift was made by Miss Hannah G. Hatch, of 37 Union street. This consisted of a collection of glass negatives of photographs made by the late Henry S. Wyer. These negatives are being classified by an interested summer resident, Albert E. Marshall, and are a valuable addition to our exhibits. **

**

**

sje*

Chairman William E. Gardner, of the Whaling Museum, has the following interesting items to report: "First, we wish to give recognition to Wallace Long, the custo­ dian, for his generous gift of extra time; his experience in ships and on the sea increases the interest of all who visit the Museum.

"Mrs. Appleton, the Librarian, continued her valuable work of helping the many who wish the facts about the lives of their whaling ancestors, and Miss Elizabeth Worth, the secretary and receptionist with her skill at the typewriter loaned by the School Committee, has considerably increased the listing and cross-referencing of the many items in the exhibit.

"The repairs on the Whaling Museum have been very extensive.

The roof had several leaks and much of the slate had to be replaced.

The north end brick work was badly damaged by water seeping into the bricks and freezing. Most of the top part of the north end brick had to be taken down and replaced. Storm windows have been pro­ vided for the eastern side of the Museum to prevent water and damp21 ]§•

ness, in the winter, from entering. A thorough cleaning of the Museum was made this Spring. When the floor was washed three times and then waxed, the original design on the linoleum was brought to light.

More than eight thousand people tramp over this floor annually, and considerable wear is given it by their sixteen thousand feet. These repairs have forced us to spend over a thousand dollars.

"Mrs. Chris. Heller, of Hasbrouck Heights, New Jersey, has taken a great interest in providing colored slides of the Whaling Museum and other Nantucket pictures to be sold at the Whaling Museum. From these sales we made over fifty dollars last year.

"Mr. Carl Detrich, of Philadelphia, a frequent visitor to the Museum, has volunteered to make colored slides of the very interest­ ing 'Edward Cary' log book. He has also made a volume of colored photographs of the different pages of the log book. As this log book is the most interesting one in our collection, it is handled by hundreds and is now becoming very much worn; we are considering withdrawing it and replacing it with Mr. Detrich's photographic copy.

"Mrs. Charlotte Giffin King has made gifts to the Whaling Museum, notable among which is the little trunk carried in the boat by |Owen Chase after the wreck of the Essex. We display it in an illustrated series of Old Nantucket Yarns, each one having a chart and relics of the story.

"Mrs. Regis H. Post has presented a memorial to her husband, the late Regis H. Post. It is made up of many illustrated items, among them some valuable French prints of the Revolutionary War." ** ** ** ** A new case has been prepared for keeping the Records of the Friends Meeting (which came to us last year) in the big vault at the Fair Street Museum. This case is so built that the records lie flat, and any particular one can be taken out without disturbing the others.

The case will increase the life of the records by keeping them in better condition.

Mrs. Charles E. Congdon and Mr. Robert Congdon have present­ ed to the Historical Association a large number of documents and books which were collected by Dr. Charles Congdon, a former Presi­ dent of the Association. Each item will be marked the "Charles E. Congdon Collection," as a memorial to him. They are under the process of being studied and catalogued.

Miss Helen McCleary, in May, made two trips to New Bedford to the home of the late Henry B. Worth, noted historian of Nantucket and New Bedford records. There she secured many of the original books and documents used by Mr. Worth in the preparation of several of his valuable "Bulletins." These are of considerable value and are being catalogued.

Dr. "Will" Gardner and Mr. Jay Gibbs are engaged in locating the farms in existence on Nantucket in 1850. It is believed that the total will exceed one hundred and twenty-five. Mr. Alexander Hoyle •4 22^

of Shimmo and Boston, is to draw a map illustrating the locations of these many island farms. **

**

**

**

The most recent property acquisition of the Association—the Old Gaol and House of Correction—off Vestal street, promises to be an interesting development. Condemned long since by the State as penal institutions, the buildings were falling into ruin, so that a few more years would have found them defying all efforts toward restora­ tion. Desiring to secure the property, the Association inserted Article 17 in the 1946 annual town meeting warrant, and the finance commit­ tee recommended the transfer. The town meeting voted to deed the property and on June 3, 1946, the transaction was duly recorded in the Registry of Deeds.

As relics of 18th and 19th century penal institutions, where those who were imprisoned for debt, misdemeanors or petty thievery had to mingle with hardened criminals and mental patients, the Old Gaol and House of Correction represent an era in the social history of island. Every summer, hundreds of interested visitors to the island have sought admission, but the delapidated condition of the structures forbade it. In line with its policy of preserving old landmarks, the Nan­ tucket Historical Association will repair and restore wherever neces­ sary and have the structures available to the sight-seeing public.

The Old Gaol is thought to have been built in the late 1790's, and to have stood originally on High Street, but the Town Records of November 1, 1805, reveal the following: Starbuck> Walter n ffi""?iylvan.US„ Folger, SylVanus Macy, Seth Oomn, hrancis Macy and Shubael Coffin of Nantucket were appointed a Committee at Legal Town Meeting to convey the new Gaol lately built by the Town of Nantucket in the County aforesaid, and do by these presents convey the Gaol to said County and the land as here­ after set forth: the northeast corner of the Town land where the Gaol stands, South, 114, West 5 rods, from thence North 80, West 4 rods, from thence North 14, East 5 rods, from thence South 8, East 4 rods to the first bound, containing 20 rods of the above premises as they are set forth."

When the Town purchased land at Quaise in April, 1822, it laid out a farm, with an Asylum, to which the unfortunate and poor of the island were removed. Four buildings were constructed at a cost of $12,349.43, and in 1826 a fifth building—the House of Correction and Industry—was added. When the Town voted in February of 1854 to sell the Quaise Farm, a committee was appointed to investigate the expediency of removing some of the buildings to town. This committee reported in March of that year, recommending that the Asylum and House of Correction be so removed, and that the latter be dis­ continued from the Asylum. Quaise Farm was sold at auction March -6{23fr

13, 1854, to George C. Gardner and Joseph M. Folger.

The Asylum was removed to Town and placed on lower Orange Street during the summer of 1854, and is now known as "Our Island Home." The House of Correction was placed in its present location at the same time, and on October 11, 1854, Isaac Myrick was appoint­ ed its first Keeper at a salary of $50 a year. To complete the property lines, the Town purchased 6 rods, adjoining the Goal to the east, on January 12, 1855, paying $6il.41 for the same.

The Old Gaol is a wooden structure, two stories high, constructed with walls of logs lying cabin-style, and boarded and shingled on the outside. The outside measurements are 24 by 16 feet. It has two cells on each floor, with an outside staircase leading to the second story. The west cell on the lower floor measures 14 by 11 feet, with a fireplace! and a space for two bunks. There are two windows; the south window originally had a double grating, with a sash and glass, and measures 16 inches square; the north window is only 8 x 10 inches and originally had board slide. The other three cells are similar in size, except the lower east cell has no chimney. Apparently, the up­ stairs cells were those most used during the past 50 years. At the present time the interior walls are sheathed, with the original walls still remaining under this modern addition.

The House of Correction and Industry is the larger building.

It was used to incarcerate those sentenced for drunkenness and mis­ demeanors. It was used for the imprisonment of women found guilty of various crimes, and the east lower cell is said to be where Patience Cooper, the Negress convicted of murdering Mrs. Phebe Fuller in November, 1860, was confined for two decades.

From the time when Stephen Morse escaped from the Sheriff in the Gaol yard in 1811, to the celebrated escape of Charles Freeman m 1933, there have been numerous unusual events at the Gaol. It is hoped that a pamphlet of these occurrences may be prepared in the near future for sale at the exhibits to preserve the history of these antiquated structures, now, most fortunately, no longer used for their original purposes.

Respectfully submitted, EDOUARD A. STACKPOLE, President.

"An Exile From Home"

By REV. ALFRED RODMAN HUSSEY.

This is the ftrue story of an American girl, -who had a long life, varied above the ordinary. Born in Massachusetts while it was still a colony under the (British crown, she was destined to wander far afield, spend two-thirds of her life in foreign lands, see cities and men, consort with the great and near-great, have her share of joys and sorrows, win through to "An did age, serene and bright, And lovely as a Lapland night;" and, in spite of lifelong separation from her native country, remain to the end a loyal American and consistent Quaker.

On the twenty-ninth of March, in the year 1787, there was a wedding on Nantucket. Of the details of the occasion, only two facts have come down to us. The meeting house was crowded. And we know what the bride wore. "She was dressed in a pale peachcolored silk gown, with the skirt wide open in front, showing through a transparent apron, a quilted satin petticoat of a light blue color. A light drab satin cloak, lined with white, reached nearly to her ankles, and was wide enough to make in after years two mantles, one for each of her daughters".

Bo, after the custom of the Society of Friends, Elizabeth Barker and Benjamin Rotch pledged their troth each to the other and became man and wife. Their romance had begun in childhood. When they were both little tots, at dame school, they were detected in a clandestine correspondence. Called to the bar of justice, and commanded to surrender the note she had just received, the little girl refused. Popping the scrap of paper into her mouth, she faced her accuser, saying: "If thee insists on having it, I'll thwallow it". Whereupon the teacher refrained from pressing the point. The incident reveals certain traits of character which she was to manifest throughout her long life.

On the island her marriage attracted no little attention. Her husband's father, William Rotch, was the richest man, and leading whaling merchant on Nantucket. There, at the foot of Main street, his counting house still stands, its walls bearing the names of his three best known ships; one of which, the Dartmouth, had its part in the Boston Tea Party.

All his other children had married offislanders; three Rotches having married three Rodmans from New­ port, R. I. Benjamin alone .married a Nantucket girl. Both Benja­ min and Elizabeth had more than their share of average good looks;

he a big, handsome, attractive young fellow, she tall, slender, blueeyed, fair-haired. Their marriage proved singularly happy, destined though it was to carry them far from the place where it began.

When the Revolution ended, Nantucket whaling found itself in dire straits. During the war, the islanders had suffered many hard­ ships; and, now that peace had come, they distrusted independence.

In fact, at one time, they seriously considered remaining a part of the British Empire. In order to recoup his fortunes, William Roteh looked across the Atlantic, with the idea of carryng on Whaling from English ports. With this end in view, he crossed the sea, hoping to persuade the British government to subsidize the venture. Unsuc­ cessful in this, crossing the channel, in France his persuasion found more willing ears; with the result that he established his business at Dunkirk. And thither, in 1790, Benjamin and Elizabeth journeyed as his representatives. In the meantime, during their three years on Nantucket, to them, a son, Francis, had been born. So it was a family of three which set sail on one of the family ships; accom­ panied by William Rotch himself, his wife, and two of their daugh­ ters, Lydia and Mary. Landing in France, they set up housekeeping in Dunkirk, in a house on the Grand Place which was to be their home for the next four years. For Elizabeth, the separation was to prove life-long. Because, so sea-sick was she, during the six weeks' voyage, that she was never able to persuade herself to cross the sea again. **

**

**

**

At first, her life in France was comparatively uneventful. She settled down to adapt herself to the novelty of foreign housekeeping.

Once she traveled with her husband to Paris, where she first saw parquet floors, was scandalized by the intrusion of a man chamber­ maid, and, at Versailles, had a glimpse of the king and queen dining in public. At another time, they had three months in England. They went to Bath in the height of the season; and in London met many prominent Quakers, Frys, Gurneys, Hoares. Writing to her sisterin-law in America, Elizabeth records her impressions of Bath: "I was extremely pleased with the elegance of Bath. It was exactly in the bathing season. We walked in the pump rooms, surrounded by invalid Lords and Ladies, whose dissipated lives had worn out their constitutions. I was equally pleased and surprised to see and taste the water, which they constantly pump up, smoking hot; it is not unpleasant to the taste, and must be very comfortable to bathe in, tho I did not try the latter because it is said to debilitate people who are in health. It is a city of dissipation, and I was told mostly supported by the company, which visits it at the bathing season; and those very pale faced beings which we see in the pump -5(28 js»

rooms, as soon as they recover enough to endure it, are attending the Assembly rooms, and at the card tables until midnight. Poor crea­ tures, how it hurt me to see them."

It was during this English sojourn that Benjamin tried his hand at match-making. Joseph Fry had' proposed to Elizabeth Gurney and had been refused. Learning that the Botches were going to Earl'ham, he begged Benjamin to say to "Betsy" a word in his behalf For this no opportunity offered until, on the eve of departure, Mr. Botch found himself in the garden with the young lady. Seizing the shining hour, he asked her what message he might carry to her suitor.

"Tell him," she said, "that he has no hope but in the fickleness of woman." "Then," replied the other, "I shall tell him he has every hope." This he did. Joseph Fry straightway went down to Earlham and was accepted.

On their return to France, the Botches found the country on the brink of chaos. Bevolution broke out, and the Americans found their situation far from pleasant. iSoon Dunkirk was beseiged by the British fleet, commanded by the Duke of York. Most of the wealthi­ er inhabitants fled, but Elizabeth, refusing to leave her husband, valiantly stood her ground. To her sister-in-law she wrote: "I have however a tolerable share of courage, and under my dear Benjamin's protection am willing to tarry here a while longer; not that I should like to be in town during a seige, and (as Benjamin proposes) live in the cellar, but, my dear, it is no small matter to take ourselves and children, servants, etc., over the channel, if it were allowed, and at present all communication is forbid, even the Mail. And then were we to flee, and leave our furniture, it might fall a sacrifice if thou recollects, during the American war, those who stayed fared the best."

So they elected to remain, the decision bringing many a test to their courage. The English had a pleasant habit of firing red-hot shot into the town. Consequently, the Mayor ordered that no closet in any house should be kept shut; and that a bucket of water and a pair of tongs should be placed in every room. 'Our heroine had also to deal with other problems. Food becoming scarce, rationing was set up, allowing only a certain quantity of provisions to a family, requiring all superfluous provender to be turned in to the common store. Officers were appointed to visit every home, to see that the law was enforced.

Now Elizabeth Botch had a large and varied store of goodies, preserved fruits and vegetables, which the family ships had brought from home. One closet in her own room was filled with them.

Would she give them up? Not she. Therefore, on the day when <6f 27}3<-

the official visitation iwas due, she got into (bed, had them all taken from the shelves and arranged around her, under the bedclothes.

So she received the officers, politely invited them to come in, bade them inspect the empty closets, apologizing the while for receiving them thus, on the plea that she was in an interesting condition.

Embarrassed by this reception, after a hurried inspection of empty closet shelves, they hurriedly withdrew. Whereupon, she got up; and soon had the jars, canisters and boxes back in their places.

But, their courage notwithstanding, eventually the Botches found themselves compelled to leave. As the revolution ran its course, and mob rule developed, the time came when in the square under their windows, the guillotine was set up. Heads fell. In Paris, Marie Antoinette was executed. A general illumination of the town was decreed. To the American Quakers, compliance was impossible. So, on the appointed night, serenely in a back room, they awaited the mob's attack. iSoon there came a knocking on their door. But, instead of an angry rabble, it was a neighbor, come to congratulate them on the beauty of their lighted house. Only then did they dis­ cover how the Mayor, respecting their scruples, and to protect them from violence, had caused to be erected in the street outside a scaffolding bearing an array of lighted lamps. So they were saved. ** ** ** ** Soon afterwards, they managed to escape from France on one of the Rotch vessels, taking with them a number of refugees. Making their way across the Channel, Elizabeth and Benjamin, with their three children, two boys and a girl, journeyed to London, expecting to remain there but a short time. But a suit in chancery dragged its slow length along until, at long last, all hope of return to America vanished; and they settled down in England for good and all.

At first they set up their household goods in Islington, then a pleasant rural suburb. During their sojourn there, on her walks in the village, did Elizabeth occasionally meet a little, thin man, clad in rusty black, his pale features lighted by cavernous black eyes, walking arm-in-arm with a portly housewife? She may well have done so. For at that very time Charles and Mary Lamb were living in the neighborhood. However, of one personal contact on a loftier social plane, made by the Botches at this time we have substantial evidence. They met and talked with the King and Queen.

This is how it came about. Being Friends, their principles for­ bade them going to court. But Benjamin West was an intimate friend. As President of the Royal Academy, he had no difficulty in securing an audience with George III for his American co-patriots.

We will let Elizabeth describe what happened, in her own words: Under date of 7mo., 1799, she writes to her husband's sister, Elizabeth Rodman, in New Bedford: "Eliza has begun her French -«[ 28 ]•>

studies & seems much (pleased, she expects to read falbles in a short time. She accompanied us the other day to the exhibition at Sum­ merset (sic) House, (where) we were were fortunate enough to be admitted in company with the Royal Family, who generally go to see it a feiw days before it opens for the public; and our friend, B. West, thinking it would gratify us, asked the King's leave to admit us with them, which he consented (to do) very heartily; and he with the Queen, several of the Princesses and Prince Edward, duke of Kent, were all very civil & took much notice of us." Eliza was pleased with them all but the King, he being in undress with a brown bob wig, did not answer her expectation, which was that "at all times he wore a crown of costly diamonds, and flowing robes covered with or­ naments", so she very candidly told West she was "very disappointed in the King, but the Queen and the Princesses were very charming."

Years later, that same little girl, writing her own Recollections of Seventy Years, to the story added a few colorful details: "My father and mother, two other Americans who were their friends, and myself, formed the favored few. All wore the Quaker dress but myself, and the King said in his nervous way, 'Are these your Quaker friends, Mr. West?' and repeated it twice before Mr. West could reply. 'Is that little girl a Quaker? She has not got a Quaker bonnet on: if she had the Quaker bonnet, I would have spoken to her. Tell her so, tell her so, Mr. West.' Meanwhile the Princess Elizabeth admired the (bonnet of my mother, and said she wished she could have one like it. The Royal party stopped a few minutes in the hall, on pur­ pose to give the strangers opportunity to look at them, which was a kind attention of Mr. West.

From the Rotch acquaintance with Benjamin West one other tangible result survived. In West's painting, "Christ Healing The Sick," the head of the demoniac's father is that of Benjamin Rotch. »»

**

**

**

By this time, the household at Islington had been enlarged by the advent of a guest from overseas, the first of many. A young nephew, William Rotch Rodman, had arrived for a long visit. Of the household, a pleasant picture has come down to us in a letter written by our heroine to her sister-in-law in New Bedford, under date of Imo. 2nd. 1800: "I have now taken up the pen while Wm, Frank, Eliza and Ben, having just finished a romp at iblindman's buff, are quietly set down to play a game of grammatical forfeits, they are now all talking together & Joanna the loudest to silence them, so if I make some mistakes I trust thou wilt forgive it... .1 have just had a kiss on my cheek as I sit writing which I suppose is the redeeming of a forfeit."

Further on in the same letter, we find a paragraph which shows that, 4 29^-

in those days, life in Britain, even close to London, was not without its drawbacks.

"Yesterday we dined at Friend Hoare's, .Newington, where we met 3 young women from Ireland (Bradshaws) the granddaughters of friend Hoare. Their dining room is very large & after the table was removed they all joined in the amusement of blind man's buff, much to the gratification of the party. We came home in the evening, and as roberies (') are very frequent in our neighborhood, friend H. was very uneasy, but we got safely back, and so much are we the crea­ tures of habit that I believe we conversed all the way back, and never thought of the danger until near our own door."

For these American Quakers, whaling proved a profitable invest­ ment; and Benjamin Botch was growing rich. With wealth came higher standards of living, along with entrance into high society, so-called. The setting-up of a country establishment followed. In Wales, Milford Haven was the home port of the Botch ships. Living there at the time were a group of Nantucket Friends, Tory exiles from their home island, among them various Starbuck relatives. The lord of the manor was Sir William Hamilton; and from his nephew, Charles Greville, Benjamin Rotch leased a tract of land overlooking the harbour, thereon proceeding to build himself a country house, where he lived in considerable style. **

**

**

**

"Castle Hill" was a pleasant abode, its rooms large, with a conservatory, a big garden, stables, standing in extensive grounds.

Elizabeth, ever the Yankee housewife and consistent Friend, cared little for all this grandeur. But Benjamin revelled in it. In my possession is a Lowestoft tea-set, lovely in its simplicity; plates, cup, helmet creamer, teapot and sugar bowl, all severely plain, without ornament of any kind, save a tiny pink rosebud on each piece. This was sent by these English Rotches as a wedding present to their niece, Eliza Rodman, in New Bedford. She was engaged to John Bowne, of New York. They had passed meeting; and the date for the wedding was set. But, at the last moment, the young lady found herself unable to carry out her part of the bargain. The nuptials were called off. And all the wedding gifts were returned to their donors. All, that is, save this china. Eliza could not bear to part with it, treasuring it all her life.

At Castle Hill there was much entertaining of the local gentry, as a letter from Elizabeth to her "Dear Sister Rodman" bears witness.

Writing from -Milford on the eighteenth of November, 1801, she says: "I hope soon to have another cook. She is not what is called a professed cook; yet she sent our table the other day as excellent a dinner as I wish to see, for a party of our friends, viz, Lord & Lady •»S{30]3-

Cawdor & some others of our Pembrokeshire gentry, who had come to Milford to see the corner stone of our new house laid. It is done with a sort of ceremony in this country, and Lady Cawdor performed the business with her awn hands, it being previously prepared with an inscription, dates, etc., and with a silver fish knife as her trowel.

Her ladyship acted the part of mason admirably well, surrounded by spectators. She is the belle of the country, and one of the handsom­ est women I ever saw. After the parade we all returned to the house, and sat down to dinner."

And what a dinner! Enclosed in the same letter is the menu, together with a plan of the table arrangements, which the hostess had made out for her cook. There was boiled salmon, with fried whitings laid round the dish. This was followed by lobster and anchova (!) soup in tureens; after which came tongue and boiled fowls, with oyster sauce, roast ibeef, partridges, with vegetables.

The dessert consisted of raspberry tarts, jellies and syllabubs, rice pudding, damson pye, cheese-cakes, with rich gravy and current jelly "in boats". The whole was topped off with "the desert sent us as a present from a gentleman in the neighborhood, consisting of apples, pears, figs fresh from the tree, nectarines, filberts & American nuts". A fairly substantial meal! But then, the Quakers were al­ ways mighty providers.

And now the drama is enlivened by the entrance of two historic personages, famous and infamous, no less than Lord Nelson and his inamorata Lady Hamilton. The Botches had already met them in London, where at the town house of Charles Greville, they had gone to an evening party, given in honour of his uncle and his wife. In Eliza Rotch Farrar's Memoir of her mother we have a breezy descrip­ tion of what took place.

"My mother was shocked to find herself in such bad company, and refused to be introduced to Lady Hamilton, who was the lion of the evening. She was still very handsome, and sang sweetly, and though she saw that she was avoided by the beautiful Quakeress she was not to be deterred from speaking to her, and when taking leave, she rushed up to her, and said she 'hoped to see her in Wales that sum­ mer', as (Sir William and she meant to visit Milford, and they should certainly call upon her. My mother was dumfounded (sic) by this impudence, and not choosing to say she should be happy to see her, she said nothing, but secretly resolved to avoid her if possible."

But it was not possible. Her ladyship proved as good as her word. During the summer following, the entire Hamilton menage, Sir William, Mr. Greville, the redoubtable Emma, with Lord Nelson in tow, descended on Milford Haven to remain there for some weeks.

Sundry entertainments were given in their honour. Reluctantly, the Cawdors invited them to dine at "Stackpole". Sir William and his

4 31

nephew called at "Castle Hill". The next morning, which was warm, Elizabeth) was sitting in a room whose long windows opened on the terrace, when who should walk in, unannounced, but Lady Hamilton as bold as you please, saying that she could not leave Milford without seeing her dear Mrs. Rotch. We can be sure that, hot as the day was, the temperature in that room was perceptibly lowered; and that the hostess' back was stiffer than her customary posture. It was during the same Welsh sojourn that, on the first of August, the an­ niversary of the Battle of the Nile, in honour of Lord Nelson, Lord Cawdor arranged a yacht race, offering as a prize a silver cup. This race became an annual event, surviving down to the outbreak of World War II. On two occasions, the cups were won by Rotch boats. On the evening of the first race a subscription dinner was given at the local hotel. Benjamin went, and was scandalized by the behavior of the lady at the head table. Nelson proved to be a glum, dour indi­ vidual. Lady Hamilton sat next to him, and as he had only one arm, cut up his meat for him, occasionally selecting a choice morsel from her own plate and popping it into his mouth. What happened later we will let Mrs. Farrar tell in her own words: "After dinner they had toasts and songs. When Lord Nelson's health was drunk, she alone, of all the ladies, stood up with the gentlemen, and joined in their hip, hip, hurrah! iShe sang a song about the battle of the Nile, and threw her hand back on the hero's breast, as she warbled forth his praises. The company retired dis­ gusted with the conduct of this bold, bad woman." A shocking spectacle, indeed! **

**

*#

**

During the year in which these high doings transpired, Elizabeth presented her husband with a son, the last of four boys and two girls.

Of this progeny, the second son, Benjamin, attained some distinction.

French-born, he was educated in England, studied law, and must have become a British citizen. For in London he became a judge, and one of the law lords in Parliament. There is extant a pamphlet, "Suggestions For The Prevention of Juvenile Depravity", by Benja­ min Rotch, one of her Majesty's Justices of Peace for the County of Middlesex; published in London,in 1846, for private distribution only.

There is also a fine letter written by his mother, describing King Wil­ liam IV's visit to Parliament in 1831, when excitement over the Reform Bill was at its height. Benjamin took to wife a certain Miss Isabella Judd, who long outlived him, surviving down to the eve of World War I. They had no children.

Now to go back to the Rotches at "Castle Hill". Their sojourn on the pinnacle of glory destined to be brief. Riches, alas, have a way of taking to themselves wings. The elder Benjamin's prosperity was short-lived. The time came when he tried to corner the English -6(32]*-

market in whale oil, failed ignominiously and, in modern parlance, "lost his shirt". Forced into bankruptcy in 1814. he lost almost everything. "Castle Hill", iwith all its contents, had to be sold.

From the wreck, he managed to salvage enough to provide a modest competency; but he never recovered his former position of privilege and power. To Elizabeth, who had never trusted worldly posses­ sions, to whom the splendours of "Castle Hill" had always been distasteful, the change in fortune was a blessing. Henceforth she could live in harmony with her simpler standards; and, good house­ keeper that she was, take a personal hand in her domestic affairs.

After the crash, she and the younger children settled for a time in Bath, that favorite refuge of the impecunious, while Benjamin and the older daughter, Eliza, sailed for America. They had an Atlantic crossing of 47 days. For Eliza the trip proved a fateful one, for, after her father had gone back to England, she stayed on with her New Bedford relatives; and there, on the tenth of October, 1828, mar­ ried Professor John Farrar, of the Harvard faculty. Having some literary gifts, she subsequently became the Emily Post of her day, publishing various books on etiquette, especially designed to improve the morals and manners of young females. In Cambridge, she took Margaret Fuller under her wing. It was she who inspired Charles T. Congdon's mot: "Eliza Farrar taught Margaret Fuller how to enter a room; and her aunt, Mary Rotch, taught Emerson how to save his soul". **

**

»»

•*

From Bath, eventually, the Rotches moved to Bristol, thence to Clifton, then to Lowlands, near Harrow; and so, at last, to London, where, in 1832, they settled down at 8 Sidmouth street, which was to be their home for twenty years. There, in 1839, Benjamin Rotch was gathered to his fathers, and "tucked up under green bedclothes" in Kensal Green. Elizabeth passed the sunset of life in characteristic fashion. She grew rheumatic, slightly deaf. She was lonely, for the children had scattered. For companion, she had an attractive girl, Anna Dumaine, who she loved as a daughter. She looked after the ways of her household, dusting, often descending to the kitchen to cook some favorite dish. Much of her time she spent at the win­ dow, in the rocking chair her son-in-law had sent her from Boston. A prodigious letter writer, keeping in touch with all her kinfolk, far and near, her letters reveal a personality strong, lovable, not without its elements of greatness. She never ceased to inwardly protest against her exile from the land she still called home. Always she was fervently patriotic, deeply interested in everything that trans­ pired in the United States. At her fireside, American visitors always found a warm welcome, journeying cousins, nephews, and nieces from across the Atlantic. Mr. Webster called on her. On another occa4 83*

sion, the American minister and his wife, Mr. and Mrs. Abbott Law­ rence, whose daughter had married her kinsman, Benjamin S. Roteh, were her guests. Deeply religious, so long as she was able she went Tegularly to the Westminster Friends Meeting, where she saw the great philanthropist, William Willberforce, and heard him speak.

When the weather was propitious, she took the air, first in a onehorse brougham given her by her son, Dickerson. Later this con­ veyance was replaced by a Bath chair, in which she was drawn by a iboy through Kensington 'Gardens, always taking with her a packet of seeds for the birds, and a bag of little cakes to delight the soul of any child she chanced to meet.

This was after she had removed from Sidmouth street to 'No. 17 Pembridge Place, not far from Kensington High street. 'So, almost imperceptibly, as it has a way of doing, old age drew on apace, "The golden evening brightened to­ ward the West". There was light at eventide. Somebody said of her, "She was old at fifty-four, young at ninety-three". Serenely, with her mental powers unabated, with indomitable courage, and steadfast faith, she waited for the end of earth. On December 4th, 1853, just a month after her ninety-fourth birthday, her long exile reached its close. 'So ends this story of Elizabeth Barker Rotch, good woman, staunch lover of her native land.

Note.—The sources from which the above narrative has been drawn are: First, "A Memoir", still in manuscript, written by her daughter, Mrs. Farrar, and now owned by a descendant living in the far West; second, the same daughter's "Recollections of Seventy Years", published by Ticknor and Fields in 1866; Third, several monographs on various of his Rotch relations, by Mr. John M. Builard of New Bedford; Fourth, and most important of all, a sheaf of letters written by my heroine, to her sister-in-law, Elizabeth Rodman, which are now in my possession. There are more than fifty of these letters, covering altogether as space of sixty-three years, written, of course, with no thought of publication, and offering a striking reve­ lation of the writer's temperament and personality.—A. R. H.

<34)^

MAP OF THE BURNT DISTRICT IN THE TOWN OF NANTUCKET RESULTING FROM THE FIRE. This map orginally appeared in the New Bedford Mercury. It was loaned to The ^ Esq., and reprinted in Editor Cobb's issue of July 24, 1846. It will be noticed several 1846 lanes are now gone.

Key to numbers: (1) Geary's hat store on Main street; (2) Trinity Church, Broad street^ (3) Atheneum; (4) Washington Hall; (5) Citizens' Bank, papers saved; (6) Manufacturers and Mechanics Bank (7) the Aaron Mitchell brick house and property, containing the largest hot houses and garden on the island, au stroyed. This marked the northern limit of the fire; (8) George Myrick house. Union street, s,aJp„ |V vr,^ Patricio house; (9) Custom House, Commercial Insurance office of brick, interior ^tted. Now the Pacihc Uub. (10) Pacific Bank, escaped serious injury; (11) Methodist Church, also saved; (12) "|ar®d Coffin s^brmk he>us , saved, checked the northwestern extent of the fire; (13) Unitarian Church, saved; (14) North Church, sav , (15) Gosnold House, destroyed; (16) Sea street.

The "Great Fire of 1846."

By EDOUABD A. STACKPOLE

The worst physical disaster ever to occur on Nantucket was that of fire. Shortly after 11 o'clock on the evening of Monday, July 13, 1846, a tiny tongue of flame was kindled in the wall of a small building—in the hat store of William H. Geary, on the south side Of Main Street, where the Nantucket Spa is now located. Originating fronx an over-heated stove pipe, the incipient blaze in the wall grew rapidly and soon dense smoke escaped through an opened window into the street. But it was not until the red of the flames was seen that fire horns began to give the alarm. Two "engines" (hand pumpers) responded quickly; there was a delay in hooking the two pumpers into a relay, each company seeking the honor of playing directly on the fire. The wrangling continued until, suddenly, the flames burst from the Geary store in fierce puffs. The volunteer firemen immediately "hooked on," the suction hose was dropped into a cistern in lower Main street square, and a stream of water gushed from the "Cataract," (now preserved in the Historical Rooms), and the men pumped with a will the water fed them from the "Fountain" pumper at the cistern.

But the leaping flames were spreading. Even while more volun­ teer companies were racing to the scene the fire had crossed into the next store west of Geary's. A strong breeze began to make itself felt, which was surprising because the wind had been light. The phenomena was soon explained—it was a steady underdraft created by the heat of the fire itself. For several days there had been no rain and the burning structures were like tinder to the flames. At midnight the fire had spread to the Washington Hall, one of the town's largest buildings, and it was now completely out of control. *

*

*

*

*

A statement made by William C. Macy, an eyewitness, many years later is interesting. He wrote: "At the outset, a smart stream of water would have quenched the fire in the Geary store." In 1846, the method of fighting fires was considerably in contrast with that of the present. Fire apparatus, one hundred years ago, consisted of "hand-tubs", which was a large pumping mechanism mounted on a four-wheel trudk operated by large rails on either side of the tub called "brakes." These pieces of fire fighting equipment were for the most part privately owned and maintained by volunteer com35

panics, each group proud of its particular "tub." Oftentimes, there was a race to the scene of every fire, with the company arriving first having the honor of playing the hose directly on the fire. »

*

»

»

*

It was a result of this custom which led to the early spread of the fire. A company hauling the "Cataract" No. 6 and the group hauling "Fountain" No. 8, came clattering down the cobbles to a cistern lo­ cated on the north side of the lower square, in front of what is now the Wannacomet Water Company building. This cistern was covered by a large flagstone with iron rings on each side for lifting. Both fire companies arrived at the cistern at practically the same moment.

It was often necessary to use two engines so that hose lines could reach the fire—the situation which arose in this instance—and in such a case the company arriving first had the honor of playing the lead hose directly on the fire, while the other engine was supposed to lower its line into the cistern and relay the water to the first "tub."

An argument immediately arose as to which engine should have the prior position at the fire. It was the kind of argument which lasted just long enough to allow the flames in the Geary store to spread beyond the store building. *

*

*

*

•

The memory of that night left its vivid impress upon the minds of every islander, young and old, able to witness the flaming sight.

Fanned by the bellows of its own making, the fire leaped from Wash­ ington Hall (now the site of the Manchester brick store) across the narrow court to the J. C. Congdon store, above which was the office and press room of the weekly Mirror, thence to the Post Office in the Gardner house next west. While the pumpers worked from two Main street cisterns, the flames spread also to the east, until the entire south side of the street from Union to Orange was a mass of seeth­ ing flames which lighted the night sky to a vast distance, throwing into a weird relief the canopy of whirling black smoke shot through with a myriad of snapping sparks and tossing brands.

Hastily summoned into conference, the Selectmen and other lead­ ers decided to blow up several buildings in an effort to stop the rapid spread of the devastating flames. Two houses on Orange street, next to the Main street's corner on the east side, were blown up by means of kegs of powder. Sailors from the U. S. cutter McLane, Captain Sturgis, came ashore and were pressed into service clearing the streets. (There were claims for damages against the use of this gun­ powder, the claimants declaring it was used indiscriminately in some cases and that it spread the flames in others.)

Momentarily halted at Orange street, the fire threatened to continue its course westward, but the brick dwelling of Philip H.

THE OLD "CATARACT No. 6," WHICH WAS USED IN THE 1846 FIRE. The old pumper is now preserved in the Historical Rooms on Fair Street.

Folger, on the opposite corner, though badly scorched, did not catch the flames, and a cistern in front of the Pacific Bank helped keep that brick structure's wood work from becoming afire (although the roof observatory of Cashier William Mitchell (who was also an as­ tronomer of some note) was entirely consumed.

The intense heat carried the flames and was projected across Main street's cobbles to the north. The large building on the corner of Centre street appeared to catch fire all at once. Upstairs, the deposits and papers of the Institution for Savings and most of the Coffin School library were saved. One by one buildings on the north side of Main street caught the flames. The big building on the corner of Federal street, which housed the Manufacturers' and Mechanics' Bank, was consumed, leaving the big iron vault standing like a black­ ened memorial amid the red ashes. Continuing to the east, the fire raced through stores, dwellings, shops and warehouses. The present Pacific Club brick structure, then housing the Commercial Insurance office, was completely gutted, only the walls remaining, while on the opposite side of the street (east corner of Washington) the brick Citizens' Bank was a similar victim. The brick walls of the Town Building, between Union and Washington streets, remained standing but those records which had not been removed by the frantic officials were entirely consumed. Of similar irreplaceable loss were the con­ tents of the Atheneum Library when the flames destroyed that fine old structure (originally the Universalist Church), not only burning the library and many old documents but the collection of whaling and other material collected by the whalemen from all parts of the world which was on exhibition upstairs. The office and press room of The Inquirer, then upstairs in the Ray & Barrett hardware store, corner of Main and South Water streets, was entirely consumed, to­ gether with its contents, although some of the files were saved. The Mirror, located just above Washington Hall, was also burned out, Editor Morissey losing all his equipment and supplies. While The Inquirer managed to secure a press before The Mirror was able to get one, Editor Cobb promptly offered its use to The Mirror's editor. * * * * * Working along the east side of Centre street, the conflagration continued its devastating progress. Not a store was left standing on either side from Main to India street, the only structures escaping being the Methodist Church, with its big white pillars badly black­ ened but otherwise unscathed, and Mrs. Upham's house on the corner of Rose Lane. On to Broad street raced the flames, where they leaped—a wall of flame—to engulf the new Trinity Church and the dwellings on the street's north side. Like a bulwark, the Jared Coffin mansion (now the Ocean House) checked the flames' westward spread.

•*87 •

thus saving Centre street to the north, because the fire, after con­ suming Trinity Church, swept north and then east to North Water street, finally being checked by Aaron Mitchell's brick dwelling on the corner of Sea street. *

*

*

*

*

Between the ruins of Centre street (as a northern boundary) and the now flaming waterfront, the buildings were half consumed and half burning within four hours after the Geary store blaze was dis­ covered. From the experiences of the 1838 fire, the islanders knew that the waterfront was doomed. As the warehouses, cordage and ship chandlers' stores, counting houses and blacksmith shops were leveled by the fire, it remained for the oil refineries, oil storage warehouses and ropewalks to provide the spectacular climax. As these buildings caught fire, the red and orange flames assumed new and more ter­ rifying proportions. The burning oil rolled and poured into the docks, so that the waterfront became a veritable sea of fire, with the New North, Old North, Straight and Old South wharves gradually falling prey to the conflagration.

Fied Elijah Coffin, in a series of articles on his reminiscences, published in 1912, wrote thus about the "Great Fire:" "After the fire became well started and was forcing its way in three or foufi directions it seemed as though it might, at any time, start directly up Mam street, and if so our house would go. At that time my father came to me—and I never before saw him so seriously in earnest—and said: 'Fred, will you stand by me tonight?' I said: -rTreS; IJwllL And the old gentleman knew he could depend upon me We had no horse and it would have been impossible to find one that night, so my father obtained a large porter's push-cart and with that we transferred many loads of household goods to the premises of an uncle in the upper part of the town; but before the early day­ break it was evident that the fire was under control One of the peculiar incidents of that wild night was the rare sight of the harbor on fire. Many barrels of whale oil on the wharves had burst, and their contents flowed out over the water of the harbor and there, taking fire, presented the grand spectacle of a sea of fire. I do not give this at first hand, for I saw nothing of it—that night was my busy night. The next day, and many a time afterwards, when the small boys would mention the grand sight, I would try by sympathy and imagination, to enjoy the recital, but under the circumstances I never regretted not seeing it." *

*

*

*

*

As dawn broke on the morning of July 14, a bewildered, smokegrimed and weary band of fire-fighters congregated at the steps of the Pacific Bank and gazed at the sight with incredulous eyes. One-third of the town lay in ashes; some two hundred and fifty buildings had been destroyed, with a total loss in excess of $1,000,000. Practically all of the markets and stores, with supplies of foodstuffs, were gone; drug and medical supplies had been devoured; seven oil factories, •€{38

a dozen warehouses, the priceless museum and Atheneum Library, three banking institutions, two newspaper offices, Trinity Church, the Mansion House (corner Federal and Cambridge streets) and the Gosnold House (head of Salem street) were gone; many dwellings, containing merchandise, furniture and other personal property, were destroyed. *

*

*

*

*

The only one of the three island newspapers to escape the flames was The Warder. This was a new sheet, launched by Samuel Haynes Jenks, formerly well known as the editor of The Inquirer for two dedades. At the time of the fire Jenks was absent from the island but his indefatigable wife, a daughter of the distinguished William Coffin, immediately went to work with Eben R. Raymond, her press­ man, and issued an appeal for aid prepared by the Selectmen. Editor Jenks, returning to a town partially in ashes, wrote an article pieced from eye-witness accounts which reads as follows: 1 "Articles were removed from place to place repeatedly and at length burned in their supposed places of refuge, at points very remote from the spots whence they were first taken. So intense was the heat that the widest streets became impassable. People could only operate upon the outer boundaries, and the vast area comprehending the burnt district at one period seemed like an interminable sea of fire.

"No forms of language can convey an accurate idea of the horrors of that memorable night. No rain had fallen for a long time, and the houses, which were chiefly of wood, had become by the agency of many long days of unbroken sunshine, amply ripened for their destiny. The flames flew from house to house, crossing streets, lanes and courts.

"Explosions of gunpowder and torrents of water seemed alike unavailing, though directed by the stoutest arms and the most desperate and determined spirits. All night long were these doomed people thus exercised, harrasscd and foiled. Human strength and skill were at last exhausted, and the fire having engorged everything within its reach, subsided only for lack of other accessible materials.

Men fell powerless in the highways, utterly worn down and dis­ heartened. Fire engines brought into the most dangerous positions up to the last moment, were yielded to the flames which poured in upon them from opposite quarters.

"But so appalling was the scene—so intensely engaged and ex­ cited were the populace of all ages and sexes—that no moments could be spared for contemplating the particular terrors of this dreadful conflagration. And even now the inhabitants generally are scarcely willing to credit their senses. The whole is like a painful, paralyzing dream." *

*

*

*

*

Amidst the horror of that night there were many deeds of cour­ age in salvaging goods. Capt. Frederick Chase is credited with the

4

saving all manner of goods snatched from the flames and thrust into his house for safe keeping. Obed Swain, Alfred Folger and Charles G. Coffin helped other town officials bring the records of the town to safety. Men performed prodigious feats of strength in carrying goods to safety, and Nicholas Gardner is said to have drawn a wagon load of household goods through the streets to a place away from the danger—and it took two men to move the wagon the next day.

Besides the destruction of the business section of the town, the number of families who lost their homes was at least two hundred.

Allowing each family four members each, this would make eight hundred islanders who were rendered homeless by the fire within the space of seven hours. So rapid was the progress of the flames that most of these families lost more than half their household goods, and a majority of them practically everything. It is written that some thirty widows lived in the district burnt over, most of them poor and not a few of them with children depending upon their earn­ ings for bread.

•

*

*

*

*

The newspapers were hard put to get back to the regular issues.

Editor John Morrisey was unable to print The Mirror again until August 15, a month after the flames had consumed the press. At first Morissey had a temporary office in the David Baxter house on India street, and then moved to the brick store of Capt. Frederick Chase on Union street. To print his first, small-sized sheet he was offered the facilities of the new press brought to the island for The InquirerEditor Edward Cobb promptly offering it to his competitor. Aided by is printers "devil," Editor Morissey had recovered enough type from the ashes of the fire to wash, sort, and put into eases, thus being able to get his edition into type. In telling of his difficulties, Morissey wrote:

for every dollar that we had, was the fruit of our labor, and thei multiplied amazing slow, by pence rather than pounds We had just Paul the last installment on our office, our head was assuming a steady upright position, our shoulders losing their roundness A shilling could jingle in our pocket for nearly a week without fear of being disturbed—when, lo! at one fell swoop, away went the under­ pinning, and down we came, essentially and truly knocked into 'pi' beyond redemption, for a long time at least. Although we have not lost much in amount, pretty much all we had is gone."

Editor Edward Cobb, of The Inquirer, moved his print shop to the schoolhouse formerly occupied by Mrs. Rose Jenkins on what is now called Flora street. His office was maintained at the store of Mrs. «40fr

Abby Betts, 93 Main street. The New Bedford Reporter aided Editor Cobb in getting out his first issue after the fire on July 18, 1946. * * * * * One of the oddities of the fire was the revelation of the faith many business men had shown in leaving their valuables in iron safes.

This was of sad consequence as not one of them withstood the ex­ posure, with the result that books, papers and other valuables deposited in the iron strong boxes were destroyed.

Messrs. E. & J. Kelley, Main street merchants, had locked up in a "Salamander safe" not only their books but the most beautiful and costly portion of their watches and jewelry. When the safe was hoisted from their cellar, the morning after the fire, it was discovered that the interior was still on fire. The doors having been pried open, buckets of water were necessary to extinguish the blaze. The stock was ruined but a few ledgers were salvaged. During the fire a few hours earlier, the safe of the Commercial Insurance Company (now the Pacific Club) had been dragged into the street and the books re­ moved, but the safe standing in the fierce heat of the street, was lit­ erally consumed.

As a double protection, the Citizens' Bank had two safes, one within the other. When the Cashier removed the papers, before the building took fire, he left a few unimportant books and some gold and silver coins for the purpose of testing the safes. After the fire, when they were forced open, the books had been burned up, and the money showed signs of having been heated red hot. Messrs. Christopher Mit­ chell and Company had left in their "Gaylor" safe a thick, old ledger, as a matter of experiment. The book was burned to about the thick­ ness of a man's hand, and even this portion was illegible.

On the other hand, the stone vaults in the Merchants' and Me­ chanics Bank and the Town's Building protected their contents un­ injured. The bank vault was not opened until two days after the fire.

The outer door had to be forced but the inner one was unlocked as easily as usual. The interior of the vault was still warm but the contents were entirely uninjured, the covers of the books being scarcely warped.

The Inquirer of July 27 reported: "The Town and County records were removed before the flames reached the building, but they would have been uninjured had they been left in the stone vault." A few un­ important documents—left behind as a test—proved the fire-proof qualities of the vault and its interior safe. *

*

*

*

*

The appeal of the Selectmen (printed by The Warder's small press on Coffin street) read as follows: "Friends—The undersigned, Selectmen of the Town of Nantucket, •3 41)*

have been constituted by a vote of the town a committee to ask at your hands such aid as you may feel able to render to our unfortunate and distressed people.

"One-third of our town is in ashes. A fire broke out on Monday evening last, a few minutes before eleven o'clock, and raged almost uncontrolled for about nine hours. The whole business section of the Town is consumed. There is scarcely a Dry Goods, a Grocery, or Pro­ vision store left standing, and what more particularly threatens im­ mediate distress, the stocks contained in them, so rapidly the confla­ gration spread, are almost utterly destroyed. There is not food enough in town to keep wide-spread suffering from hunger at bay a single week. Seven-eighths of our mechanics are without shops, stock or tools—they have lost them all, even the means of earning bread.

Hundreds of families are without a roof to cover them, a bed to lie upon, and many of them even without a change of raiment. Widows and old men have been stripped of their all; they have no hopes for the future, except such as are founded upon the humanity of others. ! "We are in deep trouble. We cannot of ourselves relieve the whole distress, and we are compelled to call upon those who have not been visited like ourselves, for aid, in this our hour of necessity. We do not ask you to make up our loss, to replace the property which the conflagration has destroyed, but to aid us, so far as you feel called upon by duty and humanity, in keeping direct physical suffering from among us, until we can look round and see what is to be done. We need help—liberal and immediate. If we seem to you importunate, we can only say that could you look upon the yet smoking ruins of onethird of our town—could you walk through our remaining streets filled with houseless hundreds wandering about seeking for some roof to shelter them, or for such remnants of their household goods as may have been snatched by others from the flames—could you feel, as we do, that not many days can pass before positive want will be knocking at our doors—our words would not appear feeble, our appeal certainly not more earnest than the occasion requires. But we are confident that you will feel for us and with us—and that you will render us such assistance as is in your power.

"Will you take immediate measures to bring our suffering con­ dition before your people, either by calling a public meeting, or in such other manner as may seem to you best? Provisions, Clothing, Bedding, Money—anything useful you may have to bestow, will be most gratefully received. Will you move in the matter immediately?

"Please to direct anything which you may send to the Selectmen of the Town of Nantucket, and we pledge ourselves to dispense what­ ever you may bestow, faithfully, and to the best of our ability, ju­ diciously.

"Job Coleman, Charles G. Coffin, Eben W. Allen, William Barney, Jr., Nathaniel Rand, Obed Swain, Alfred Folger, Selectmen of the Town of Nantucket."

In response to the Selectmen's appeal, many cities and towns throughout New England sent help in various ways to the island. One of the most heartfelt days in Nantucket's history occurred on the 22nd of July (Wednesday) when the steamboat Bradford Durfee arrived from the city of Fall River, with nearly two hundred pas-

<42>

sengers, and "freighted with the liberal contributions of the benevo­ lent citizens of that place, in aid of the sufferers by the recent dis­ astrous fire in our town." She brought between eleven and twelve hun­ dred dollars in money, and from two to three thousand dollars' worth of food and clothing. There were bedding, bedsteads, garments of all sizes, boots, shoes—indeed enough to restore present comfort to very many families who had lost their all by the fire. The owners of the steamer also contributed some three hundred dollars, the whole pas­ senger money. The steamer berthed at Commercial wharf, the only wharf left of the orginal five. When the Durfee sailed on her return trip at 1:00 o'clock that afternoon, three cheers were given by the crowd assembled at the wharf.

Meanwhile gifts were pouring in from all parts of New England.

As an example of their variety and extent, take the following: From different religious societies of Chelsea, $17.43; from citizens of Westfield, $24.00; persons unknown, via schooner Enterprise, from Bos­ ton, 1 bundle men's clothing, 1 bandbox containing women's clothing; citizens of Newport, 1 box containing bedding and clothing; citizens of Salem, by Mayor Carbot, $1,802.75; citizens of Medford, by Alex­ ander Gregg, Wm. Haskins, Milton James, $206.22; citizens of Kings­ ton, $465.50. From Poughkeepsie, N. Y, came $400.00, and from Au­ burn, N. Y., came $65.25. And so it went, the generous gifts from var­ ious communities coming steadily to the island. The citizens of the City of Boston alone sent $15,000. *

*

*

*

*

Among lessons learned from the fire was the hazard of having so many buildings packed into such a small area—especially among warehouses containing so many combustible materials—with stores of whale oil, blacksmith forges, rope-walks and other places where inflammable commodities were in constant use. Hence, with the rebuild­ ing of the town's center, came the widening of principal streets in the "burnt district." The north line of Main street was straightened so that the lower and upper squares were on the same lines. Federal and Centre streets were also widened, together with Washington and South Water streets. Broad street remaining practically the same in its proportions, with the exception of a straightening of the line at the junction of Federal street. A number of lanes were closed, such as Brown's Lane, a continuation of Hussey street, across Centre to Fed­ eral; Black Horse street, to the south of the Sanford House; Coal Lane's northern end; and Independence Lane's eastern extremity.

"The Mirror" of August 22 reported: "The alteration of the streets is going on as briskly as circum­ stances will admit. Persons are fleeted backwards, upwards, down­ wards, or fair compensation allowed for their land as circumstances require—all of which has been done, we believe, thus far, without 43 )3<-

creating the slightest ill feeling. When the alterations are completed and the buildings erected, the principal business streets of Nantucket will probably be the most spacious of any town in the Union."

On Main Street two well-built brick blocks were constructed to complete the north line of the "Square" from North Union to Centre streets. On the south side of the street, a brick block was erected at the corner of Orange street and then, to the east, a succession of socalled "temporary stores" were built—all of which continued in ex­ istence until 1925 when they were torn down to be replaced by the present varied structures.

James M. Bunker, who took over the editorship of The Warder temporarily, reported on August 27 that six weeks after the fire the visible evidences of the reconstruction of the burnt district were apparent on every hand." Sixty stores and shops had grown into being. Mechanics of almost every trade were working day and night.

Among the business establishments which had resumed business seven weeks after the fire were the following: Ratlg rSet W Charles A. Folger, James Coleman, Josiah Col™, Freeman Shear' rFoJ 1 ' all blacksmiths; C. Coggeshall, blockmaker; B. & T. Folger, provisions, Crosby & Sons, coopers' and carpenters' store Candle Street—Laban Paddaclc, Wm. H. Coffin, Painters.

Washington Street—George R. Pierce, clothing; George W Macy hardware; Coffin & Jenks, saddlers. macy, A r^m0n Street:—Town Offices (brick) interior rebuilt; Frederick A. Chase, provision store.

Street~Co™mercial Insurance Company (brick) interior ™ r. e-built, George Myrick, fish market; Jas. N. Bassett, hardware.

Wharf E. W. Gardner, flour and grain store; David M., Mitchell, blacksmith; Francis Colburn, grocery; Robert F. Gardner ship's stores; David C. Swain, grocery; George M. Jones, grocery' Blagden & Hight, blacksmiths.

Cross Wharf—Daniel Russell, provisions, E. W. Perry West India goods; Tallant & Macy, West India goods; E. Parker, blacksmith.

Old North Wharf—E. D. Fisher, Frederick Gardner, blacksmiths; Long & Meader, paint shop; Thomas F. Mitchell, blockmakers; S. & i. Hussey, for fish market; H. G. O. Dunham, beef market.

South Water Street—Ray & Barrett, hardware; Gardner & Macy, tin and iron, William P. Smith, paints; A. Hamblin, cordwainer.

Federal Street L. Hosier, fancy shop; W. C. Smith, hardware.

Broad Street N. Rand, brick bakery; E. W. Gardner, carriages.

North Water Street—Charles Wood,, dwelling and joiner's shop.

Centre Street—John P. Swain, grocery, D. J. Upham, grocery.

Pearl Street—George A. Lawrence, apothecary.

New North Wharf—Easton & Thompson, carpenters; Geo. Swain Jr., R. & A. Smith, Edward Folger, Samuel Shearman, blacksmiths; R. Mitchell, wheelwrights; C. B. Swain, lime store; W. R. Easton, compting room.

•<£{44 >

AS MAIN STREET LOOKED BEFORE THE GREAT FIRE OF 1846.

Looking up along the north side of the "Square," toward the Pacific Bank and Liberty Street. Note that the sidewalk line is now changed.

•Many dwellings soon took shape in the burnt area, to be com­ pleted before the snow of winter1 fell. Most of the mansions erected in the 1846-47 period in this area still stand, with the Sanford House, on Federal, Fearing house on Centre, Easton and Joy houses on North Water, and Fish houses on Broad street excellent examples. Sherburne Hall was built by the Odd Fellows' fraternity during the fall and winter with funds sent by mainland lodges, and with its stores on the first floor has become a business landmark. The fine Atheneum Library was completed in February, 1847, forming a center for in­ tellectual and social organization which has had a far-reaching effect in this community. *

*

*

*

*

It is true that the "Great Fire of 1846" hastened the end of the whaling industry, and, combined with the migration of so many enterprising islanders to California at the time of the gold rush three years later, and the Civil War, resulted in final abandonnment of the main business which had supported the island for two centuries.

Nonetheless, the catastrophe had a tremendous social influence upon the town and its people. A common calamity had been suffered.

It was a stirring season for all the people and each felt a greater interest in what others were doing, during the rebuilding, than ever before. This was not idle curiosity; it was an expression of a common bond of sympathy and hope.

The control of the policies and business life of the town now changed from the leadership of whaling and the ship-owners to that of the tradesmen and mechanics of individual businesses. A truer democracy was born out of less business, less wealth and less osten­ tation. The advent of the Civil War revealed how widely the town had departed from the policies of the Whigs, because Nantucket became the banner town of the Commonwealth in furnishing men to help wage the third of the great wars to establish a true democracy on this continent.

With the doldrums following the war, until the first beginnings of Nantucket as a "summer resort," the town was at its lowest ebb economically. But the visible frame-work of the community—its old houses, its several institutions and its new business district—became living symbols of hope for a better day. The "Great Fire of 1846" was indeed a calamity, but it did have an effect upon the conscious­ ness of the people and upon the physical welfare of the town which far outweighed its material loss. By tremendous exertion, aided by an all-seeing Providence, the main portion of the town was saved; the business district was re-built upon more dignified lines; and the spirit of the islanders was crystalized into a common courage and steadfast hope for the future.

The Old Mill.

Nantucket's Old Mill this year observes the two hundredth an­ niversary of its building. Tradition has played a leading role in the effoifts of historians to learn more about the origins of the ancient structure, which was purchased at auction by the Assccmtmn in August, 1897, and it has been more or less established that the Mill was constructed by Nathan Wilbur for some member of the Swain family in the year 1746.

According to the town's records, the first proprietors sought a miller with the beginnings of the settlement. At first, it is believe that horse-power! was furnished for grinding. On March 15, 1665, it is recorded: "A meeting of freeholders and owners—upon serious con­ sideration they agree and conclude instead of a Horse Mill to build a water Mill at Wesquo Pond." In June, 1667, Peter Folger undertook "to keep the Mill for the owners and inhabitants on the terms here­ after mentioned—to have two quarts out of a bushel for the labour in grinding and to keep the running gear in order.

In November, 1667, the Town passed an act granting half a share of accommodation to the man who should build a Mill for the use of the Town and maintain it. Early in 1671-2, William Bunker engaged "to build and carry on the Mill and have it done by May 1st, 1673.

To this agreement Tristram Coffin dissented. The Town also bargain­ ed with Edward Starbuck, John Swain, Nathaniel Starbuck and Wil­ liam Worth to make a pair of mill stones. This Mill question was still fated to be a vexed one, however, and in August, 1672, William Bunk­ er's time was extended to August, 1673. Again, Mr. Coffin opposed. He in turn agreed to perform Mr. Bunker's engagement about the Mill for a half share of land and also the "Old Mill" with all the appurten­ ances belonging to her in lieu of the £40 Wm. Bunker was to have. So far as is known this contract was carried out. *

*

•

*

*

It is known that there were Fulling Mills at Polpis, and at Mill Brook; later, a Round Top Mill near Old North Burying Ground, as well as Field's Folly at the junction of Lily and Liberty streets. There were four mills on the Popsquatchet Hills, of which the present Old Mill was the easternmost. The late James Walter Folger has an interesting view of them in the Historical Rooms. In the earliest pictorial view of the town, which appeared in the "Portfolio" of 1811, four mills are depicted. Barber's "Historical Collections" also has an illustrated version of the town and its mills. Gleason's "Pictorial <{ 46 ]§••

Drawing Room Companion," of March 19, 18;53, has a view of two of them. Perhaps the strangest-looking of the four mills on the hills was the "Spider Mill," which stood in what is now Prospect Hill Cemetery. This mill had six arms and no built-up vanes, but had six jib-shaped sails, instead, attached to the arms. Each sail was made fast to a short timber which protruded at right angles to the end of the arms, and could be raised to permit a wind-spill under the next sail. To the east, on Chicken Hill, stood another mill, and another, known as the "Brimstone Mill," was east of that. The easternmost was known during most of its career as the "Charles Swain Mill," and is the only one remaining.

In the earliest picture published of Nantucket-Town—which appeared in the "Portfolio" of Philadelphia in 1811, the four mills are not in the truest sense practical drawings of the Nantucket mills.

Those of the crude woodcut were of the Dutch type, which quite of a different type. *

•As the last survivor of the island's mills, the Old Mill is not only an interesting exhibit but its wooden machinery and other details make it a valuable addition to the few examples of American industry of its day still in existence. That the Mill can actually grind saleable corn makes it a most unusual structure in these modern days. It is not a relic of two centuries ago; it is a practical example of the craftmanship and work-a-day living of the sturdy islanders of the 18th and 19th centuries.

—E. A. S.

4 47 fa