JAN/FEB 17 Photo: Emma Balfour Elizabeth wears Carnivale Vintage £5
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If only I’d submitted my portfolio on time. . .
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Editor’s Note Meet the editorial and artistic team behind this limited edition issue.
CO NTEN TS
Spilt Milk Fashion story featuring a blonde bombshell in a retro diner Miss Vicky Viola An interview with fifties obsessed fashion and lifestyle blogger Hepcats Tattoos Scotland’s first and only rockabilly tattoo parlour Sugar and Spice Biker chick meets fifties femme fatale in this studio shoot Carnivale Vintage We interview Edinburgh’s newest vintage boutique proprietor Funny Face Audrey Hepburn and Fred Astaire star in a fashion-filled musical Itchy Feet A quick Q&A with the founder of a retro rockabilly club night
EDI TORS
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Ruth MacGilp, Editor-in-Chief Ideal 50s date: Drive aroud in a Cadillac with Marlon Brando
Emma Balfour, Photographer Ideal 50s date: Singing in the rain with Gene Kelly
Welcome to this special edition 50’s inspired issue of Wonderland Magazine. With a focus on rockabilly style in the modern age, we explore 1950s style subcultures around Scotland.
Heather Mckenzie, Features Editor Ideal 50s date: Tap dancing with Fred Astaire
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Kirstie Lambie, Sub-Editor Ideal 50s Date: A drive in movie with James Dean
Naomi Findlay, Art Director Ideal 50s date: Visit to the skate rink with Paul Newman
Nicki Lockerbie, Fashion Editor Ideal 50s date: Trip to the fairground with Elvis presley
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Mexican tourist skirts, pearl clip -on earrings and loud, proud conversational print. Channel your inner Doris Day with Americana, rockabilly style.
SPILT
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MILK
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Model: Elizabeth Hunston Stylist: Ruth MacGilp Photographer: Emma Balfour Special Thanks to Carnivale Vintage and The City CafĂŠ
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MISS VICKY VI Edinburgh-based vintage fashion blogger Vicky Viola talks to us about her all-consuming obsession with 1950’s style.
IOLA
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with a very realistic looking “fake fringe”. Vicky also enjoys making her own clothes, “For many years I couldn’t find what I wanted to wear so I just started making it. Now if I see great fabric then I’ll make clothes with that. I want to make my own skirts”. Many big events took place during the 50s but there was one which Vicky would love to have experienced “I’d want to see Elvis perform for the first time, I want to see the crowd go that crazy because that changed teenagers as we know them, but none of them tried to get on stage or bother them, they’re just sitting in their chairs crying really loudly, these days they’ll bake their hair into cakes and send it to their favourite bands”. Vicky also takes style inspiration from Elvis, especially the famous collars worn by him on stage. “He wore really big collars, but because he wanted to hide his scrawny, chicken neck”. When asked if she had a favourite song by Elvis, she said “Suspicious Minds, because I can play it on the ukulele”.
Vicky Viola is a vintage blogger based in Edinburgh with an all-round 50s inspired lifestyle. Her obsession began when she was a young girl, stemming originally from her mother and uncle’s love for all things vintage. She remembers running around as a kid with the jukebox playing in the background and this love for retro has continued to grow over the years. Vicky’s face lit up as she told us about her uncle’s Wurlitzer and his old red telephone box which she would play with alongside her cousins as a child and how this inspired her love for the 50s. This excitement became more of a fascination when her mum bought a slot machine and transformed their kitchen by adding a classic 50’s style to it. Her passion for the 1950’s has grown stronger than that of her mothers with her icon’s including the famous American pin-up Bettie Page, known as the “Queen of Pinups”, as well as Lucille Ball, star of the well-recognized “I Love Lucy” sitcom and also swimmer and actress Esther Williams. “A swing skirt with a waist belt is always a winner” Vicky tells us as she discusses her favourite staple pieces of fashion from the 50’s, her favoured hair style being an up do with added curls and finished
We faced Vicky with the tough question of Marilyn Monroe or Audrey Hepburn to which she found easy to answer. “Marilyn, because you can eat your cake and still look sexy. Because Audrey grew up during the war in tough times, they were starving and she was left with really bad digestive problems all her life which is why she’s so skinny. Nobody should think that’s a choice”. Vicky also takes inspiration from classic 50’s movies such as Singing in the Rain, High Society and Million Dollar Mermaid starring one of her idols Esther Williams. Delving more into Vicky’s blog and why she took the decision to start blogging, she told us this branched from the start of her business. “I started my business under the name Vivid Please 6 years ago, then changed this to my own brand with a 50’s theme. I was tired of trying to not be myself, I was shy and didn’t want to show myself online, but then I decided to just be me”. Vicky’s typical day doing the blog ranges from attending events to shooting different outfits. “I fit my blog around my life. It’s not my primary thing anymore, it’s more of an afterthought now, I do it more in my free time. It can get overwhelming at times and I don’t want my posts to be forced.” She has embarked on new adventures, searching all around for vintage items to add to her collection. “Vintage road trips are my latest crush. Aberdeen is great for vintage. I’m just back from Spain and did vintage shopping in Malaga and it was rubbish.” However, while in Spain Vicky discovered a
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Rockabilly festival where she spent some time. “We ended up in this biker bar called the Road House in Benalmádena and the woman behind the bar was like Bridget Nelson and she told us all about this Rockabilly festival so we went the next day. I got some amazing outfits from sellers there. We all hung out at the pool dressed like 50’s rockabilly kids. There were rockabilly swing bands playing. It was sick.” “If you had any advice for young bloggers what would it be?” “Stay true to yourself and don’t beat yourself up if you have nothing to write. Give yourself a break.” Vicky also spoke about negative comments and not worrying about what people think. “I think you need to be really kind to yourself when you’re writing a blog because you’re really putting yourself out there and it’s ok to take a break and not listen to any negativity.” Speaking about her own experiences of receiving unfavourable comments she told us, “one person went through my blog and pointed out all my spelling mistakes and I’m dyslexic. People are stupid and if you have to go that low to feel better about yourself then I’ll take that hit.” “I don’t have to go to the opening of everything. I have a life and I have other plans. You’ve got to stay out of the drama. Hop in the vintage bubble with me!”
Photographer: Emma Balfour Words: Kirstie Lambie and Nicki Lockerbie
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ROCKABILLY HEPCATS TATTOOS REBELS
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“I’m a positive, happy person so I wanted my studio to reflect that”
Hepcat : Definition “a person who knows about the newest things in music, fashion, etc. : a hip person” On a dreary, grey Saturday morning in January , I stepped through the threshold into Hepcat Tattoo Studio in Glasgow’s City Centre. Leaving the miserable, almost monochrome winter’s morning behind, I entered the technicoloured world of the studio. In the film Pleasantville, where the main characters are transported, via their televisions into the 1950s American town of the same name, the world they suddenly fInd themselves in is black and white and completely devoid of colour. My experience, however, was almost the complete opposite As I left behind my grey world my spirits suddenly lifted as I entered a vibrant pastel world, which both contrasted with and complemented the black and white checkered floor and red and white leather diner seats. Happy Days indeed!
Despite the early hour, Stu (Hepcat) was already applying his artistry to his first customer of the day, as tunes from yesteryear played quietly from the radio.
Plus I wanted it to memorable to anyone that visits for the first time. Too many studios look alike. I wanted to stand out.”
The studio certainly achieves this and Situated on Glasgow’s High Street, having never previously been in a next to the busy Glasgow Cross tattoo studio (I don’t have a tattoo) junction, Hepcat Tattoos was a place my eye has always been drawn to which I had often passed and gazed the premises on the many occasions in, without every venturing inside. I have passed by. The “positive, happy feel” of the place is also very It is obvious from the decor and vibe true and I was made to feel very throughout that this is very much a welcome stepping inside. lifestyle and not simply a business and everything from the clothes,the Stu explained that his job is very music and the decor generates an much both a passion and a labour environment which wouldn’t surprise of love, with one customer being you if Danny Zuko and the T-Birds “tattooed for 14 hours straight”. walked through the door. While the staff at Hepcat have Rockabilly flowing through their Leader of the pack is Stu, whose veins, they understand that this isn’t artistic flare extends way beyond necessarily everyones cup of tea creating stunning body art to also and their customers and selection playing in a Rockabilly band. He of tattoos are as wide and varied explains that the 50s was: as they come, with one customer even elected for a “row of washing “Something that I’ve always machines” to adorn his body. been into. I love the 50’s style of everything, music, cars and the From his time in Glasgow and a furniture. I wanted my studio to previous spell down South, Stu has reflect my taste. I’m a positive happy tattooed a variety of celebrities. person so I wanted my studio to While he was much too professional reflect that.
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divulge any juicy details, he did confess that his favourites were, unsurprisingly, from the world of music, with his personal favourite being Dave McPherson from InMe. Stu has also collected many awards over the years, since winning his first at the ‘Ink ’N’ Iron’ Show in Birmingham but he explains that his “Proudest achievement really is to be still doing it after 20 years. It’s hard to make a living these days at tattooing as the competition is so fierce. There’s so many shops now to compete with. If I do a tattoo on someone and they love it. That makes me proud and why I keep doing it and trying to get better.” He also explains that it is not only his customers who sport tattoos and that he has collected almost as many tattoos as he has awards over the years, each with their own story. His favourite being a “Portrait of gene Vincent…… done by a legendary tattooist called Jack Rudy. To me he was a pioneer of black and grey tattooing and an ambassador for the art”
Stu’s 1950 style icons and inspirations include the aforementioned Gene Vincent, Carl Perkins, Jerry Lee Lewis and Johnny Cash, not to forget a certain Elvis Presley. So are the Hepcats the only cool dudes in town? Far from it and Stu enthuses that there is a thriving scene at both ends of the M8 “My friends run a few clubs in the Glasgow area. The Admiral Bar has a night on called ‘Ain’t Misbehavin’. The resident DJ is Tony Newell. Check it out on Facebook for upcoming events. Plus there’s the spiders web in Edinburgh that’s great. Once you click on them they’ll keep you informed of anything else going on. At the moment Scotland is buzzing for Rockin nights.” Before I headed ‘back to the future’ and once more into Glasgow City Centre, I pondered if this was just some wistful and nostalgic world, seen through the rose tinted spectacles of people who were probably too young to remember the 1950s first time around…remember this was a time just after the end of the second world war!
Stu, however, stressed that 1950s subculture was very much alive and kicking and still had its place in Scotland in 2017. “The 50’s were an optimistic era. Everything was brighting up after the war and things were getting more colourful and money was getting more plentiful. Teenagers were getting their own identity with music and clothes, the style defined an era. Today we can still take from it. The style has never dated, in my opinion it just gets cooler. Pinup culture and look has never been more popular……… To me modern looks have no identity. Boring almost.” At that, I thanked Stu and his team for taking the time out of their busy schedule to meet me and allow me to photograph their studio where they create ‘cool tats for cool cats’ Time had run on and by now this cat should have been ‘Gone Gone Gone,’ so ‘I flipped the grip’ with my generous host and headed back into a gusty, grey and now raining Glasgow morning……’Rocky Road Blues’ indeed!
Stu added that from time to time he is also fortunate enough to bump into Jack, from California, at car shows which both attend. A big music lover, Stu has been playing in bands since the tender age of sixteen and is a fan of bands such as The Reverend Horton Heat, Restless, The Meteors and Tiger Army, as well as any band on the Wild Record label in California. Words and Photography: Emma Balfour
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SUGAR AND SPICE Bold block colours and paintbox prints are a key trend for SS17. Rock head-to-toe cherry red for a traffic-sstopping look.
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RACHAEL COUTTS
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Rachael Coutts is Edinburgh’s newest proprietor of vintage fashion, with her Old Town boutique, Carnivale, celebrating its launch in 2016. Amongst the dusty antique shops and highly priced clothing stores of the Grassmarket, Carnivale, named as such for its speigeltent circusinspired aesthetic, stands proudly with its bright pink exterior, filled to the brim with affordable womenswear and menswear from the 1940’s-1970’s sourced from all over Europe. “I have always loved old things, particularly architecture, purely for the romanticism” Rachael remarks when I asked what sparked her interest in vintage. The fashion side did’t infiltrate her life until 2012, when she discovered Instagram and Facebook were great ways to source plus-size clothing from eras gone by. “I found that as a plus size girl I could finally dress the way I wanted, and I ran away from my HR job at a bank to open Carnivale as an extension of that passion for dressing with individuality.” Living in Melbourne, Australia for a year inspired Rachael to explore the alternative subculture which she was keen to bring back to Edinburgh. “There are some amazing vintage shops in Edinburgh already, I really like Herman Brown and Those Were The Days, but I wanted to bring a different feel to the area; there was scope for everyday, affordable clothing with personality.
There’s definitely an interest for vintage here, there used to be a huge rockabilly scene with Miss Dixiebelle (a recently shuttered retro hair and make-up salon) and lots of burlesque, the victory roll, and things like that, but much of that has died, however as a subculture, rockabilly has constantly been one of the most enduring styles, and there are pockets of people in Edinburgh still really passionate about the 50’s aesthetic, not led by fashion trends. Worldwide theres a huge interest in rockabilly culture, with Viva Las Vegas in particular, a huge annual gathering of rockabilly fanatics.” Rachael reflects on why the 1950’s in particular stand out for her. “The 50s were an era of drastic social change. Fashion reflects politics and history always informs fashion. If I could time travel I would go back to the era of the civil rights movements.” For the era of a massive shift in gender roles, its easy to see how it resonates today with women fearing for basic rights again in Donald Trump’s new presidency. Whats more, the birth of the teenager demographic in the 50’s sparked a youth quake worldwide which led to new and exciting styles, and the end of rationing meant fabrics and dyes could be used in excess once more. This meant for some waving goodbye to the utilitarian, military, slimmed down style and embracing Christian Dior’s New Look; the classic small waist, voluptuous skirt silhouette we often associate with that era.
“Its that super feminine, old hollywood glamour that appeals to me so much” Rachael excitedly tells me, but also comments that to stay relevant, the subculture has to adapt and change, incorporating modern ideas too, like Rachel’s own hot pink coloured hair, but also mixing and matching with other styles from different decades. “Pick and Mix definitely describes my own style because I think there’s something brilliant about every era. The 50s are great for my body because it celebrates curves, but I also love the conversational prints of the forties, however its great to see those designs get bigger and more vibrant as time goes on, and a lot of my wardrobe is full of novelty prints. I think they’re fun!” Today Rachael wears a cornflower blue Locharron cashmere sweater (she is a self- proclaimed vintage cashmere addict) with a double bass brooch and a novelty print 50’s circle skirt Her favourite pieces in her wardrobe include a 1959 skirt illustrated with famous jazz clubs, and an extensive collection of bakelite bangles Who are her favourite brands from the 50s? “In the Uk, Horrockses created the most astonishing quality cotton with beautiful prints from cartoonists and fine artists”. There was such a close relationship between art and fashion in the mid 20th century, with one of the most famous being Saul Steinberg’s Paddington Station printed onto a classic 50’s circle skirt. “From America I adore Ceil Chapman, who was a female American designer who’s dress now features in the fashion exhibition at The National Museum of Scotland. I also love the brand Suzy Perette, who took licensing from Dior’s new look and made it ready-to-wear, and Lilli Diamond, for the gorgeous 1950’s evening dresses.”
How has social media helped evolve the vintage fashion community? “Instagram has been huge for discovering new things in the vintage community, and linking passionate people together that otherwise would never have met, and it makes people feel a lot less alone, and more accepted within a subculture. In Scotland though people are a lot less judgemental and more open-minded about style than in other places I’ve visited like Paris, especially during the Festival in August, where anything goes!” It seems that social media has truly democratised the industry, and allowed those with an alternative style to find like-minded folk to share their passion with. Carnivale is a store that evokes reactions and emotional responses in passers-by. In fact the best- sellers and most sought-after items are the loud, proud floral printed frocks, the stand out gowns and the really special, one-off treasures. “I love vintage clothing because each piece has a story and holds so many special memories, like the dress here in the shop window belonged to an opera singer who wore it on stage.” Rachael finds pleasure in discovering the stories behind items of clothing, and closing the loop by passing them onto a good home. “The best things I’ve seen come into the shop include a glamorous blue taffeta gown from the 40’s that looks like it came out of a fairytale, and a beautiful 50s Horrockses dress that made the older buyer feel young again”. “Its important to remember that a pretty vintage dress is more than just a dress, it has a legacy. We put emotions into our possessions, and that history stays with them.” With today’s disposable fast fashion, it seems that we no longer equate any value to our clothing, but vintage
“Fashion reflects politics and history always informs fashion”
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Words: Ruth MacGilp Photography: Emma Balfour
Funny Face is the ideal romantic-comedy musical for the lover old school glamour and all things superficial, colourful and fun. The elegant clothing, hair and make-up complement beautifully the sickly sweet romance and the world of frivolous fashion.
FUNNY FACE
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It occurs that the modern iconic fashion flick The Devil Wear’s Prada takes much inspiration from Funny Face, with the basic concept of a Vogue-esque magazine headquarters transforming a so-called drab, dull young girl (although we beg to differ…who would suppose Audrey Hepburn had a
‘funny face’?) into a chic fashionista in a matter of days, is mimicked exactly. The ugly-duckling to beautiful swan makeover may now seem overplayed in Hollywood, but Hepburn’s grace makes the happy ending tasteful and memorable. What makes the 1957 classic so charming are the enchanting songs that so perfectly capture the era. The iconic scene in the darkroom with the photographer singing ‘I love your funny face’ to the young, self-conscious model is uplifting and totally charming. A rather drawn out song and dance piece featuring Fred Astaire and Kay Thomson, disguised in what we would only call now art student chic, is hilariously over-the-top. Our favourite though is Think Pink, a super stylised performance in the fashion magazine
If you liked Funny Face, you’ll love these other 1950’s musicals… Guys and Dolls A celebrated iconic great American musical, this Marlon Brando story is set in a big, bad New York City. Gentlemen Prefer Blondes Vintage style icon Marylin Monroe plays a slinky siren singing Diamonds Are A Girls Best Friend aboard a glamorous cruise ship. Calamity Jane Bombshell blonde Doris Day is a cowgirl with attitude in the Wild West, based on the true story of frontierswoman Martha Jane Cannary. Words: Ruth MacGilp
The late great Hubert de Givenchy designed the costumes for the young Audrey Hepburn, who plays a girl next door, librarian turned cover girl Jo Stockton, and continued to dress the movie star at Hepburn’s request as her career went on. The Givenchy gown that featured in her later film Breakfast at Tiffany’s remains the most memorable LBD in fashion history. Funny Face is full of delightful costumes that catch the eye and catch a smile.
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ITCHY FEET
Q&A
What sparked the idea for Itchy Feet? I used to be a DJ, and would spend my weekends playing at my friends house parties. This was invariably a nightmare, with my kit always getting trashed, and a few run-ins with the police. Tired of this, I decided to hose a house party, in a nightclub. It was 99p entry, and we called it “Itchy Feet”. Has the response to Itchy Feet been as expected? No! I asked 40 people to that first event, and 200 people showed up. 1000 people came to the next one. Nothing has ever been planned for, or expected 3. If you could time travel back to one year, when/where and why? July 1952, New York. Elvis Presley recorded his version of “Hound Dog” Where do you look for inspiration (style, music, arts...)? I try to get down to the basics of human interaction. Why do people dance? Why do they dress in certain way? Why do they go the places they do? In many ways this simpler a few decades ago, which I think is why I like it.
Leo Bedford is the founder of the UK’s finest retro club night, Itchy Feet. Leo hosts house parties in kicking city venues where dressing up and dancing in pairs to ELvis Presley and Ninqa SImone is the norm.
What do you think makes a successful club night? Taking care of the basics. People come to our clubs to dance, hang out with like minded people, and let loose for a bit. Clubs can often attract people/ behaviour that inhibits this. We try to stop that stuff from happening. You wont find velvet ropes, or guestlists at Itchy Feet, nor will you find big groups of lads out on the pull. What records couldn’t you live without? Nina Simone - Blue for You.
What do you think makes a successful club night? Taking care of the basics. People come to our clubs to dance, hang out with like minded people, and let loose for a bit. Clubs can often attract people/behaviour that inhibits this. We try to stop that stuff from happening. You wont find velvet ropes, or guestlists at Itchy Feet, nor will you find big groups of lads out on the pull. Whats your favourite music from the 1950s (songs/albums/singers/musicians...)? Louis Prima is probably my favourite artist of all time. Buona Sera is a good place to start. How does social media play a part in vintage subcultures today? We spend a lot of time interacting with really cool stuff, be it style guides, records, groups etc. Social Media is is a great way of sharing this stuff. Our channels should be almost entirely about the cool stuff we’ve found, rather than relentlessly telling people when our events are happening! Any future Itchy Feet events coming up? On yes. Feb 15th. Studio 24. Edinburgh
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Words: Ruth MacGilp Photos courtesy of Itchy Feet
21 High Street Glasgow, G1 1LX www.hepcattattoos.com Tel: 0141 552 8308