Na Pali Coast Magazine Summer/Fall 2013

Summer/Fall 2013

The Ultimate Crewman The Naked Truth

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Na Pali Coast Magazine

in this issue The Colors of the Na Pali Coast

4

Local Flavors Not Your Average Produce

6 Page 18

From the Lip Fishing & Surfing Adventures

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Kalalau The Naked Truth

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The Monk Seal Survivor of the Sea

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The Ultimate Crewman

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Exploring the Island of Kaua‘i (Maps & Information)

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Na Pali Coast Gallery

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Page 32

Page 60

Summer/Fall 2013

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the colors of the na pali coast 4

Na Pali Coast Magazine

DARK RED vigor | willpower | rage | anger | leadership | longing | malice

RED power | passion | danger | very intense | erotic | raises the blood pressure | courage

LIGHT RED sexuality | passion | sensitivity | love | war | passion | desire | erotic | romance | love | friendship

YELLOW joy | happiness | energy

LIGHT YELLOW intellect | freshness | correspondence

WHITE goodness | innocence | purity | virginity | perfection | faith

GREEN growth | freshness | fertility | safety | stability

AQUA BLUE emotional healing | protecting

BLUE depth | stability | trust | loyalty | wisdom | confidence | intelligence | faith | truth | heaven

PURPLE power | nobility | luxury | ambition | wisdom | dignity | independence | creativity | mystery

BLACK power | elegance | formality | death | evil | mystery

not

local flavors

By Katie Twaddle

T

he other day, I had the entire day to myself.

The men, i.e., my three roommates, were off doing their things, i.e., working at their respectable jobs and I had all day to mosey around the house and do whatever I wanted. I chose, despite the unusually cloudy day, not to mosey around the house, no; I decided to do something the men of my household have thus far refused to do with me, and that is go to a Farmer’s Market on Kaua‘i. Now, on Kaua‘i, there are 15 different farmer’s markets each week located all across the island. The one I visited is the Kukui Grove Farmer’s Market, on Mondays only, and starts at 3pm. (Enough time for me to mosey around all morning on my day off.) Even though I’ve lived here for some time, the experience was a new one to me. I was fascinated at the atmosphere of the Kaua‘i Farmer’s Market. While it was one of the smaller markets compared to others I’ve seen (while driving by of course, yelling “stop, stop!”), it was full of people and I got the feeling the early goers get the best grub.

Speaking of grub: vegetables, fruit and more vegetables, and not just your typical tomato, mango, and cucumber. There were things there that I had never seen, much less heard of. How big is the largest avocado you’ve ever seen? Well, I saw one that must have weighed 8 pounds.

Guacamole, anyone?

However, this is no weight contest. The quality of produce is none that you will be able to find at the local grocery store.

Try some beautifully pink mountain apples, ripe apple bananas, kumquat, and rumbutan.

There were some classic favorites as well: Kaua‘i grown pineapple, mango, papaya, lemons, and limes, and oranges, spinach, kale, arugula, and eggplant. And how about some bright yellow and orange flowers? The sweet old woman sitting on her tailgate is sure to give you a good price.

Th e r e

w e r e s o m e c l a s s i c fav o r i t e s a s w e l l :

K a ua ‘ i

grown

p i n e a p p l e , m a n g o , pa paya , l e m o n s , a n d l i m e s , a n d o r a n g e s , s p i n a c h , k a l e , a r u g u l a , a n d e g g p l a n t.

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Na Pali Coast Magazine

your average

produce

Summer/Fall 2013

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local flavors At the farmer’s market you become witness to a unique part of Hawaiian culture, and that is, the mixture of many cultures. While walking through, passing booth after booth, I heard Japanese, Chinese, Filipino, and Hawaiian pigen being spoken. I felt as if I were in another country. Was I really in America in the parking lot of a K-mart?

Yes!! So I left satisfied with my produce and anxious to visit a different farmer’s market next week. I also left with a red tongue because I can’t resist the shaved ice stand.

Kauai Farmer’s Markets If you’re looking for fresh fruits and veggies, Kauai Farmers markets are a great place to find local, organic, and fresh produce. With twelve different markets happening almost every day of the week, you’re sure to be just right down the road from one. Below is a list of both the Kaua‘i County Sunshine Farmers Markets and the privately run markets: Market Location Day/Time Kaua‘i County Sunshine Markets Koloa

Koloa Ball Park (Knudsen)

Monday, 12pm

Kalaheo

Kalaheo Nbrhd Ctr

Tuesday, 3pm

Kapa‘a

Kapa‘a New Town Park

Wednesday, 3pm

Hanapepe Hanapepe Park Thursday, 3pm Kilauea

Kilauea Nbrhd Ctr

Thursday, 4:30pm

Lihu‘e Vidinha Stadium Friday, 3pm Kekaha

Kekaha Nbrhd Ctr

Saturday, 9am

Privately Run Farmer’s Markets

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Lihu‘e

Kukui Grove – KMart

Monday, 3pm

Hanalei/Waipa

Waipa Foundation

Tuesday, 2–4pm

Hanalei

Hanalei Nbrhd Ctr

Saturday, 9:30am

Kilauea

Next to Post Office

Saturday, 11:30am–1pm

Lihu‘e

Kauai Community College

Saturday, 10am–1pm

Na Pali Coast Magazine

While

wa l k i n g

through, pa s s i n g b o o t h af ter booth,

I

heard

J a pa n e s e , Chinese, Fi l i pi n o,

and

H awa i i a n pigen being spoken. as if

I

I

f e lt

were

in another co u n t r y .

I

Wa s

r e a l ly i n

America

in the

pa r k i n g l o t o f a

K- m a r t ?

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from the lip Fishing & Surfing Adventures with Mark White

I

have the best job on earth! As a lure maker and surfer, I get to enjoy a lot of time in and around water.

When I go surfing I practice videography with my GoPro® and this helps me develop my skills as a documentary filmmaker—promoting my line of fishing lures through the videos I make and post on YouTube.

When I go fishing I never have to feel guilty about my other commitments—I am at work in one of my many Labs doing research and development.

Every cast is a potential for a hook up, and I learn something every time I launch a lure into the unknown.

I consider each cast and retrieve like a brush stroke on a watery canvas. You can do an infinite number of moves, jigs, pops, skips, slow movements, and fast movements all while retrieving the line at different speeds. These experiences with retrieves will increase one’s vocabulary regarding the best retrieve patterns to elicit the all-important response—the strike!

Also, a potter for more than 40 years, my wife and I have put an emphasis on the utility of any product we produce. As potters we strive to not only make a pot that is pleasing to look at, but also functional. Likewise, Our ceramic fishing lures not only look nice, but they also impart an exciting experience for the user—like producing a mouthwatering food or experiencing some other thrilling feat.

Enjoy these photos I took on a recent trip to Christmas Island.

Go to my web site for more information, pictures, and videos. www.markwhitelures.com Here is the address for my YouTube channel. www.youtube.com/user/whiteykauai

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from the lip

I

consider e ach c a s t and

re trieve like a brush stroke o n a wat e r y c a n va s .

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K

I

A

L

A

L

A

c a r e f u l ly a n d c a u t i o u s ly w r i t e t h i s s t o r y .

U

Some

questions might be

t o u r i s m i n d u s t r y t h at i t i s i m p o s s i b l e t o n o t o f f e n d t o ta l ly — n o m at t e r h o w h a r d

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Na Pali Coast Magazine

I

try to please.

r a i s e d , b u t m u s t b e a n s w e r e d b y y o u r s e l f.

I

know quite well from working in the

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B

ut, I am trying to find, from some universal human concept of morality—that acceptable line or balance for a story that needs to be told. I am leaning towards true and unique stories to jog your thinking. However, I do not want to offend anyone or promote any profaned feelings. Honestly, we all know real people that are tempted and struggling from natural and common carnality, and there is no way I want to add to that.

So, we’re talking about nudity. Let’s start with the most renowned naked people to walk the earth: Adam and Eve. They lived for a short time without stress, in a perfect temperature and climate—in a garden that was abundant with food and water.

How could anything go wrong? They were living in naked perfection. But, then came temptation, and the acting out on that temptation by biting into the Forbidden Fruit. Immediately they became self-aware, and then began the shopping at the Fig Leaf apparel store. What a bummer! I know a lot of you are thinking Why? Why? But honestly, myself and every other person that lived would have had a bite too.

I understand the modern day impact or consequences of that bite of the fruit that brought consciousness. My Pastor, Von, once told me of encountering a beyond-horrible-smelling homeless man who bordered on the scent of death. Any who would go near him were likely to get a dry-heaving feeling in their stomach. Von wisely confronted and advised the man about bathing and hygiene, and was surprised by the man’s reply. He showered every day, but was so self-conscious about his naked body that he showered with clothes on and all. He would then slowly sun-dry himself in his clothes as he sat on a warm beach bench.

As a young kid, I still remember the naughty thrill of skinny dipping in the pool, streaking like a lightning bolt across the yard like a Greek mythological runner, and hoping no one would see me till I reached the safety or concealment of the water— like a baby in the safety of its mother’s womb.

So I understand that clothes can sometimes feel

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S o,

ta k e a s e c o n d t o p o n d e r t h i s t h o u g h t : w h y d o

and limb on one of the world’s mos t tre acherous

p e o p l e c h o o s e t o b e n u d e w i t h a b a c k pa c k , wa n d e r i n g n a k e d w h i l e r i s k i n g l i f e h i k e s —t h e c l i f f h a n g i n g t r a i l i n t o

K al al au.

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As

a young k id,

I

still remember the naught y thrill of skinny dipping in the pool,

my thological runner, and hoping no one would see me till

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Na Pali Coast Magazine

I

re ached the safe t y or

s t r e a k i n g l i k e a l i g h t n i n g b o lt a c r o s s t h e ya r d l i k e a

Greek

c o n c e a l m e n t o f t h e wat e r ‌

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So,

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Na Pali Coast Magazine

m ay b e i t i s t h e d e s i r e to g e t a s clo s e to n at ur e a s

confining as well as restricting on one’s personnel freedom. I am not saying that clothes do not serve a purpose, or that there is anything wrong to be in a warm sweater on a cold day. I am just saying there is a special freedom to that naked feeling.

So, take a second to ponder this thought: why do people choose to be nude with a backpack, wandering naked while risking life and limb on one of the world’s most treacherous hikes—the cliff hanging trail into Kalalau. Some would say it is easier than swimming the Napali Coast naked— and yes, that’s been done too. Is this Kalalau trail a true spiritual journey best achieved by the absence of clothes? And what is it in that inner human soul or spirit that drives this interesting behavior? Maybe somewhere in the human DNA there is a longing to return naked to the Garden of Eden. That would be an easy answer. Maybe the driving force is simply getting right with nature.

Kalalau Valley is perhaps the closest place on the planet to the original Garden of Eden.

possible—acting out the feeling of being like a br and new naked lit tle baby

Lets behold, for starters, this bowl-shaped valley.

It’s about three miles by three miles across, with more than 3000 ft. sheer and multi green, grooved cliffs that blend down to the canopy of rain forest covering a majority of the valley below.

A vast assortment of wild fruit trees such as mango, orange, papaya, banana, etc. is there for sustenance. There is even a make shift hippie-style pizza place in the summer for those who know where to go. The stream running through is crystal Summer/Fall 2013

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And

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w h at i s i t i n t h at i n n e r h u m a n s o u l

o r s p i r i t t h at d r i v e s t h i s i n t e r e s t i n g b e h a v i o r ?

M ay b e

somewhere in the human

there is a longing to return naked to the

Garden

of

DNA

Eden.

Summer/Fall 2013

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clear—fed by springs and tucked-away waterfalls.

Let’s not forget the natural pools with those rocks shaped like chase lounges for getting a no-tanline-tan on—and the water sliced rocks forming incredible natural slippery slides. I cannot leave out the waterfall up from the beach where you can insert hollowed out bamboo into a groove, in the waterfall’s rocks, to get a ready-made fire hydrant shower. Honestly, I cannot cover it all.

Obviously, many people do not think places like this exist, but they do.

Of

naked things, however,

I

h av e l e a r n e d t h e h a r d way.

I

do not recommend

And

naked surfing

So, maybe it is the desire to get as close to nature as possible—acting out the feeling of being like a brand new naked little baby. Just last week as I boated pass Kalalau beach and everyone on board got to witness naked women rolling in the shore break waves like young frolicking seals.

Yesterday, it was a hula girl in the natural, doing her dance and chants over the sea grotto. On the return pass, we saw her again sitting in a handsout-palms-up naked trance position. Later that same day it was Adam and Eve in the sea cave, and today it’s the naked surfer and his girlfriend.

You quickly become aware of a pattern of nakedness that never stops. I clearly remember the naked yoga going on the first time—like business as usual—in the mid morning sun right on the bluff fronting of the ridge, for all the world to see. It starts you thinking what’s next? Oh no— please—not downward-dog position yoga in front of my boatload of Hawaii visitors! Really, these yoga shows are pretty far and away. Most of my passengers get a good deep chuckle out of this naked nature.

My mind wanders a bit as I contemplate. To each his own I ask myself? Am I a prude? Some might say I am too self-conscience. I could accept the “hippie out” explanation, or consider that maybe there is a naked trance induced upon these Kalalau patrons. A trance induced by the location of Kalalau on the planet and how it lines up with the stars and the solar system in this universe. Or maybe it’s just a left over extension of the 1960s that will never die—the free-love thinking and the Kauai Taylor Camp tree house experience.

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Na Pali Coast Magazine

Of naked things, however, I have learned the hard way. I do not recommend naked snorkeling. It can make you feel very vulnerable to very small hungry fish. And naked surfing is overrated. It can easily become self-inflicted pain from just paddling out— if everything is not in the right place. Remember, surfing shorts serve a purpose.

naked snorkeling. i s ov e r r at e d.

It

It

c an make you feel very vulner able to very small hungry fish.

c a n e a s i ly b eco m e s e l f - i n f l i c t e d pa i n f ro m j u s t pa d d l i n g o u t

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S e e i n g H a w a ii a n seals along the

Coa s t

monk

N a Pa l i

i s a lway s a r a r e

t r e at.

As

one of the

mos t endangered specie s l e f t o n t h e p l a n e t, their numbers are dwindling e ach ye ar w i t h o n ly a p p r o x i m at e ly

1, 2 0 0

ind iv idual s l ef t

in the wild.

s 26

Na Pali Coast Magazine

u

r v

i

v o

r

o

f

t

h e

s

e

a Summer/Fall 2013

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E

ven with federal protection their road to recovery is a long one—being that it is a road full of potholes. They are unable to reproduce fast enough to replenish the population, at a sustainable level, as it takes roughly eight years for a female to reach maturity.

When the female does give birth the mortality rate for a pup is extremely high due to shark predation, lack of food, habitat loss, and entanglement in derelict fishing gear. Human interaction is also a problem as more pups are born in the main Hawaiian Islands at popular beach areas. So, many obstacles to survival clearly show their extinction is inevitable.

For those who do survive against all of these odds, a life of leisure seems to be the case—or so it seems at first. We often spot the Hawaiian monk seal basking on the beach and looking so very sleepy and mild-mannered. But the seals are actually taking an important “nap” and are not to be disturbed. They are restoring the critical energy they will need to hunt for food later on— to keep them alive.

…a

life of

leisure seems to be the case— or so it s e e m s at f i r s t .

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…t h e

seals are

ac t ua l ly ta k i n g a n i m p o r ta n t

“nap”

and are not to be d i s t ur b e d.

Th e y

are restoring the critical energy the y will need to hunt f o r f o o d l at e r o n — to keep them alive.

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E x treme

i n t e l l i g e n c e i s k e y.

Th e y

a r e s m a r t,

top of their cl ass, and never to be u n d e r e s t i m at e d .

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For these survivors of the sea, extreme intelligence is key. They are smart, top of their class, and never to be underestimated. With the energy of puppy dogs, and the grace and speed of ballerinas in the sea, they are able to conquer the challenges of the ocean.

When I do occasional scuba dives at the island of Ni‘ihau, there is a monk seal who acts as the “welcoming committee” for me every time I arrive.

First, it shows me where the mooring is to tie my boat to, and then it escorts me along the reef of Lehua Rock. It spins around periodically to make sure I have not fallen too far behind, and gives me the eye contact or “eye chat” as if to make sure I’m having a good time. Its behavior is so playful, I feel like I should bring an underwater stick with me next time to play some fetch. Honestly, this creature shows so much intelligence in its interactions with me. It swims ahead of me, then stops and watches all of us and then waits for us to catch up before leading us forward. It guides us along steep rock ledges, and through magnificent caverns—one of which has a sandy bottom where the seal will dive down into and rest on the floor like any good dog would do in its own living room. It will even follow us all the way back to the boat, like a protective watch dog protecting its owner—very reassuring to me since I have unfortunately watched too many re-runs of Jaws through the years.

Its

b e h av i o r

i s s o p l ay f u l ,

I

feel like

I

should bring a n u n d e r wat e r stick with me ne x t time t o p l ay some fe tch.

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When

t h e f e m a l e d o e s g i v e b i r t h t h e m o r ta l i t y

r at e f o r a p u p i s e x t r e m e ly h i g h d u e t o s h a r k p r e dat i o n , l ac k o f f o o d , h a b i tat l o s s , a n d e n ta n g l e m e n t i n d e r e l i c t f i s h i n g g e a r .

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We

of ten spot the

H awa ii a n

monk seal

b a s k i n g o n t h e b e ac h a n d l o o k i n g s o v e r y s l e e p y a nd m i l d - m a n ne r e d.

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cre 40

Na Pali Coast Magazine

W h at

makes

for the u lt i m at e cre wman for a

N a Pa l i

C oa s t

cruise

b oat ?

Good

question.

U lt i m at e - l i k e perfec tion just d o e s n o t e x i s t, but

I

do know

w h at t r a i t s

I

look for af ter

ewman h av i n g h a d

my share of crewmen.

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I

t’s not just being knowledgeable as a guide.

There must also be charisma, and a thirst and love for ocean adventure in all conditions.

Most boat captains would say it’s basically having salt water DNA in the blood. You’re born with it if you have it. Look at the family history, as I have, and you will find sea captains and fisherman in the family line.

A good crewman’s value to a sea Captain is about as valued as a loving wife is. In more ways than you can count, the crew decides your survival and your success.

The traits wanted and needed are embodied in what is known as the Hawaiian waterman. When your crew has even some of it, you’re in good hands. They have to love the water like fish. If your anchor is stuck fifty feet down, they will get it unstuck. If a tiger shark is coming in too close while free-diving, they stay calm and aware— instinctively pulling close together like a protective pod of spinner dolphins in tight formation.

They’re at home and at their best when on the water and in any challenging sea condition. Their ocean demure imparts a sense of calming-thewaters. They’re not whiners. They don’t complain about being wet and—having solid stomachs—they don’t get seasick. Actually, opposite to most, they’re more likely to get landsick—like a fish out of water. It’s probably from no longer smelling, or feeling, or seeing the ocean. Maybe that dash of saltwater in their veins requires the comforting up and down rhythm of the relentless sea. Or, maybe they have secret hidden gills behind their ears— and just a yearning to be with their fish friends.

Who knows?

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Na Pali Coast Magazine

Most

b oat

c a p ta i n s w o u l d s ay i t ’ s b a s i c a l ly h av i n g s a lt wat e r d n a i n t h e b lo o d.

Yo u ’ r e

born

with it if yo u h av e i t .

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Th e y

h av e t o

l ov e t h e wat e r like fish.

If

yo u r a n c h o r is stuck fif t y fee t down, the y will ge t it unstuck.

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The Hawaiian waterman is the rare, extreme, and highly respected person who physically trains every day preparing to be in harm’s way of the many dangers offered by the ocean. True happiness comes to this extreme waterman when confronting massive ocean waves face to face.

Surfing these death-wish waves requires a fast jet ski—towing the surfer onto the wave—to ride them. They are just too big and fast to humanly paddle onto.

When you see ocean waves of this caliber, they look like they could easily wash away the island.

Some big waves I see still give me flashback memories of my own past big wave encounters— giving me “chicken skin”—making the hair on the back of my neck stand up. They make the whole ocean look as though it is standing up to break.

We’re talking about very rare waves—40 to 50 feet high—that only come around every 10 to 20 years.

They are hypnotizing—as if you are watching, in trance, a slow motion hack scene from a horror movie. You want to look away, hoping the victim will escape, but just can’t.

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Na Pali Coast Magazine

True

happine ss

co m e s t o t hi s e x t r eme wat er man w hen conf ron t ing ma ssiv e o ce an wav e s fac e t o fac e .

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When

yo u

see oce an wav e s o f t h i s caliber, the y look like the y co u l d e a s i ly wa s h away t h e i s l a nd.

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These moments are what extreme watermen live for. They feel more comfortable in waves that can take their life, in a heartbeat, than in rush-hour traffic in Honolulu—with the terrifying realization that the wife is driving. Remember, easily 80 percent of the world’s population lives closer to the ocean than anywhere else. However, very few have even one of the gifts an extreme waterman has.

You always hope to find these traits, to one degree or another, when hiring a Na Pali Coast crewman. And, the extremely rare Hawaiian waterman is the complete ocean-trait-package— so rare, that most would likely put them in the endangered species list.

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Na Pali Coast Magazine

Na Pali crewmen come from every walk of life.

Their journeys across this planet to get to Kaua‘i and their reasons for coming are always unique.

I am going to share about two interesting crew personalities I have worked with—to give a taste of some of the personalities who come here.

Th e y

feel more

co m f o r ta b l e i n wav e s t h at c a n ta k e t h e i r l i f e , i n a h e a r t b e at , than in rushhour tr affic in

H o n o l ul u‌

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M ay b e

t h at

da s h o f s a lt wat e r i n their veins requires the co m f o r t i n g up and down rhy thm of the relentless sea.

Or,

m ay b e t h e y h av e s e c r e t

hidden gill s behind their e ar s—and just a ye arning to be with their fish friends.

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I

a m going to share abou t t wo

interesting cre w per sonalities

I

h av e w o r k e d w i t h — t o

g i v e a ta s t e o f s o m e o f t h e p e r s o n a l i t i e s w h o co m e h e r e .

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Na Pali Coast Magazine

here today… gone tomorrow

T

he majority of visitors that come to Kaua‘i are responsible individuals who plan the trip years in advance for their once-in-a-lifetime vacation.

A few other visitors are looking for a fresh new start, and are trying to relocate their life. An even smaller number are honestly running from a troubled past.

Lastly, there are the free spirited, self-absorbed, young-surfer-types looking for their own perfect wave in paradise. It could be your waiter or busboy at the Kaua‘i restaurant you just ate at. He’s usually between eighteen and twentytwo years of age, and previously brought up on a steady diet of too much Gilligan’s Island.

With dreams of endless luau feasts, and overly friendly hula girls at the beaches, they find their drive to get here. He just needed to get to Kaua‘i and he would be set. The greener grass of the Garden Island awaits. Unfortunately, in time, the realization sets in that the expensive green grass only grows over the septic tank.

Most cannot ever really outrun their problems— carrying their baggage like overweight luggage.

And, living in paradise is very expensive. Before long, they go back to where they came from—or they’re off to another new destination. They seem to vanish from Kaua‘i overnight.

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S o,

the very

n e x t day ‌ he e xpressed t h at i t wa s t i m e t o l e av e t h i s c l i q u e ygossip- centerb e ac h t o w n o f

L a Joll a. He w o u l d s ta r t looking for a p l ac e t o escape to —and a p l ac e w i t h b e t t e r wav e s .

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Cre wman 1 | G -Man One crew guy I knew—we will call him the G-man—was the stereotypical blond-haired, blueeyed California surfer. He thought Kaua‘i would be his rehab from drinking—which, he said, was the reason his girlfriend dumped him. Apparently, the fact that she caught him cheating on her with some Fredrick’s of Hollywood type model—that he had met at Windansea Beach the day before— had nothing to do with it.

Heart broken, he said he was going to turn 180 degrees from his prodigal son ways, regain his Christianity, marry a good woman, and—at the same time—get himself right with God. So, the very next day after the breakup—gutted and shamed—he expressed that it was time to leave this cliquey-gossip-center-beach town of La Jolla.

He would start looking for a place to escape to— and a place with better waves.

That day, he and some friends conjured up a scheme to raise funds for plane tickets from San Diego to Kaua‘i. They would sell balloons filled with laughing gas, at some Mexican Ensenada indie music festival, for 20 bucks apiece.

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Na Pali Coast Magazine

he and some f r iends conjur ed up a scheme to r ai se f unds for pl ane t ick e t s f rom to

S an D iego

K aua‘ i .

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The y

w en t

be yo nd t heir goa l s a nd e ach m a d e close to f our - gr a nd — for an easy t wo - day s wo r k .

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They were killing it. They did so well on the first day they ran out of gas supply. A business decision was made to get more supply for the next day.

So, they drove all night, up across the border, and then turned around back to Mexico with more laughing gas. It worked. They went beyond their goals and each made close to four-grand—for an easy two-days work.

Feeling fat and sassy, they began spending their hoard on women of ill gotten gain, singing, and drinking tequila shots with the worm at the bottom. Then, they chased shots down with Mexican beer, and filled their guts with suspect fish tacos at a curbside cart. He told me everything was fine when they crossed the border.

But, as they got close to home, going through Pacific Beach, their stomachs began to feel like something seen out of an alien movie.

To make a long story short, he never made it home that night. The next morning—with his head splitting and beginning to sober—he realized he did not know where he was. He found himself in the company of a foul, meth addicted woman.

Completely crushed, his rock bottom had been reached. Terrified and shocked, it was time for a new life direction. You could say he was scared straight all the way to Kaua‘i’s Na Pali Coast.

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You

coul d

say he wa s sc ar ed s t r aigh t al l t he way to

K aua‘ i ’ s

N a Pal i C oa s t

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His

story

would go on r e co u n t i n g h o w h e wa s m e r c i l e s s ly bounced off the shallow reef like a rubber ball i n t o w h at f e lt l i k e a b i g l e at h e r b ag — o n ly t o o p e n his e yes and be fac e - t o - fac e with a giant d i n o s au r looking l e at h e r b ac k turtle

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C r e w m a n 2 | To n y Then there was Tony, the crewman type you love unconditionally as a brother. He may get under your skin for being a bit selfish, but whom you will still never write off. You find yourself constantly sticking up for these types—protecting them even if they’re sometimes only too human. But like everyone on this planet, they too have been born with gifts.

Tony’s gift was a charisma that took the best moments in life and enhanced them even more.

He could capture his listeners completely—100 percent. He had story telling tools to magically stitch the best moments into our short lives— and really to just make us laugh.

Tony was amazing for “talking story”. His best tool was his bigger-than-normal brown Latino eyes that, as his story got going, would, without blinking or flinching, kind of look right through you. You, the listener, might look away. But, when you turned back, his eyes had never lost their track. His next tool was his careful and precise slow head nods to emphasize his words which, mixed with some cool body or hand movements, elaborated the points.

Sometimes, at the end of a boat trip and back at the dock, he would still be engaged in telling a gripping story to the passengers. Captivated—with his eyes and hands going—they would not realize it was time to get off the boat. I would eavesdrop, knowing the work must go on.

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Na Pali Coast Magazine

To n y

wa s

ama zing for

“ ta l k i n g s t o r y �.

His

b e s t t o o l wa s his biggerthan-normal brown

L at i n o

e y e s t h at , a s his story got g o i n g , wo u l d, without blinking or flinching, kind of look right t h r o u g h yo u .

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He

would begin to el abor ate abou t t he paddl er ’ s e y e s — big a s

silver doll ars illustr ated by his hands forming circles around his own eyes , then with precision , and a quick lean in to the crowd — and r eply,

“ total

mons t er v ibe dude !”

The y

woul d al l be in s t i tche s l aughing ou t loud .

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He would tell of his big heavy-wave surfing wipeout at Cannons, a local surf spot, describing himself as being pushed around like he was inside a washing machine on spin cycle. His story would go on recounting how he was mercilessly bounced off the shallow reef like a rubber ball into what felt like a big leather bag—only to open his eyes and be face-to-face with a giant dinosaur-looking leatherback turtle. Then a passenger would ask if that freaked him out, and he would reply that the turtle only kind of looked at him and telepathically said, “Don’t worry sonny, this happens to me all the time.”

Sometimes he would tell of the night he went spear diving at Pila, and of the Galapagos shark—big and round as a trash can—that took all the fish on his line, and the float as well. I can still visualize his arms out in a big circle. The passengers would be spell bound on his every word—as he described the shark following them all the way to the shallows, paddling over the reef with only the points of spears or Hawaiian slings between them and the shark.

Every time we would stop at Kalalau beach, he would add to my spiel by talking about the fresh water cave on the beach just past the hikers camping cave. His story was about a bet over the last beer or food while camping at Kalalau beach. This bet had been made with a friend to paddle a surfboard—with flash-lite in mouth—to the end of the fresh water cave and back. Well, he would explain, the paddler did not make it even half way to the back of the cave before you could see the light of the flash-lite do a 180 degree turn back toward the entrance—using his two fingers to describe a slow bunny hop 180 degree turn.

They would all ask what then happened. He would begin to elaborate about the paddler’s eyes—big as silver dollars illustrated by his hands forming circles around his own eyes, then with precision, and a quick lean in to the crowd—and reply, “total monster vibe dude!” They would all be in stitches laughing out loud.

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Na Pali Coast Magazine

Th e

pa s s e n g e r s

would be spell bound on his e v ery word — as he described the shark following them all the way t o t h e shallows, pa d d l i n g ov e r t h e r e e f w i t h o n ly the points of spe ar s or

H awa ii a n

slings be t ween them and the shark.

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Right

away ,

without h e s i tat i o n , he invited me ov e r t o s h a r e some rice he had and some fish he had c au g h t t h at morning— b e c au s e t h at wa s t h e way h e wa s .

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Tony would always have a new book on how to get rich. He got this more serious monotone-lowdragnet voice—maybe to kind of convince himself.

Anyway, he would share with me, in a hush-hush tone, what he had read—like it was top-secret spy stuff—almost like he was concerned someone might over hear us talking and steal the idea. I think the chapter in the book that focused on long-suffering discipline, and patience to reach goals was skipped—and I understood this because he was my friend.

Tony, in his prime, was a very good surfer. His timing for hitting the lip, and tube riding skills were evidence of a natural talent—always very smooth. I was out surfing Tunnels during the winter of 1982 when I first met him. We hit it off right away sharing waves—uncrowded perfect waves. I have always remembered the rule of thirds: A third will love you, A third will hate you, and a third will think of you as so-so. Tony was camping at He‘ana State Park, and I was living in my VW van. Right away, without hesitation, he invited me over to share some rice he had and some fish he had caught that morning—because that was the way he was.

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He

would

r e p ly t h at t h e t u r t l e o n ly kind of looked at h i m a n d t e l e pat h i c a l ly s a i d,

“D o n ’ t

w o r r y s o n n y, this happens to me a l l t h e t i m e .”

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…

i t wa s a lway s

with him.

“this

Whene ver

i s i t , t h i s i s t h e o n e ,”

i t wa s a f r e s h r e l at i o n s h i p,

yo u co u l d t e l l — h e wa s e l e c t r i c .

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Na Pali Coast Magazine

I have so many stories of Tony, so I have to be selective—I will wrap it up with a classic and save the rest for later.

Tony and his women—gosh, where to start? I clearly remember a young Tony talking to a very intoxicated Hawaiian fellow—the conversation going something like this: The fellow said in a slurred drunken way, “Heah Toonie, you like my sistah?” Tony replied, “Oh, she is very nice.” The fellow said angrily, “What? You no like my sistah?”

Scared, Tony replied, “No, no, she is ok.” More angrily, the fellow replied, “What? You do not like my sister?” There was no winning with this conversation, so I interrupted and told Tony we had to go. Tony thanked me later. Let’s just say it was a Latino passionate love thing.

Honestly, I do not think he was ever without a woman. And it was always “this is it, this is the one,” with him. Whenever it was a fresh relationship, you could tell—he was electric. I remember seeing him paddle out for a surf session at Acid Drop. He was beaming—basically on fire.

It was like a drug. When the relationship had gone its course—which was most of the time—Tony would try to extend it—beyond the expiration date. If it lasted two years or two weeks, no one took it harder to heart than Tony, and he would say, “I had a good wept over that one.”

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Na Pali Coast Magazine

No

one took

it harder to heart than

To n y ,

and he

w o u l d s ay ,

“I

had a good

w e p t ov e r t h at o n e .�

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EXPLORING THE ISLAND OF KAUA‘I

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Na Pali Coast Magazine

10

Must Things TO DO IN KAUA‘I 1

Na Pali Coast Raft/Catamaran Trip

2

Helicopter Tour

3

Hike Koke‘e/Waimea/Na Pali

4

Learn to Surf

5

Learn to Scuba Dive

6

Sail to Ni‘ihua

7

ATV Tour

8

Hawaiian Luau

9

Sky Dive

10

Zipline The map—or rather cartograph—to the left was provided

by Lahaina Printsellers. Check out their Web site for other exceptional art from—or having to do with—Hawai‘i: www.printsellers.com The following pages show maps of different areas of the island of Kaua‘i. They are designed as a resource to show major roadways, beaches, hikes, snorkeling, and other activities that can be enjoyed on the island.

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EXPLORING THE ISLAND OF KAUA‘I

Taro Fields in Hanalei

Ke‘e Beach

Ke‘e Beach i.

2M

au lal a K

il Tra

Tunnels Beach

560

Ha‘ena Beach Park

Ha‘ena

Hideaways Beach Wainiha Beach Park

Lumaha‘i Beach

i.

4M

Ka Ha ku Rd

Princeville Hanalei Pier Hanalei Bay Rd Aku Rd eke W Hanalei

560 Hanalei Bridge

North Shore Roads Dirt Roads Hiking Trails Snorkel Spots Note of Caution: The waters around Kaua‘i are known for dangerous currents, large surf, shore breaks, and sneaker waves. It is critical that you check ocean conditions and consult with a lifeguard before going out into the water.

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Na Pali Coast Magazine

56

Hanalei Bay

Kilauea Lighthouse

Kilauea Lighthouse

Kahili Beach

Kilauea Wailapa Rd

Pila‘a Beach Na ‘Aina Kai Botanical Garden N. Waiakalua Rd

Larsen’s Beach

Kuhio Highway

Moloa‘a Bay Rd

Rd

Ko ‘ol au

M olo a‘a

Kalihiwai Rd

Kil aue aR d

Kalihiwai Beach

Rd ai iw lih Ka

Anini Rd

Secret Beach

Lighthouse Rd

‘Anini Beach

Anahola Beach Park Anahola Anahola

56

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EXPLORING THE ISLAND OF KAUA‘I 56 Kuhio Highw ay

East Side Kawaihau Rd

na Mailihu

Rd na e h o ‘Ol

K No uam un o‘o ou Tra il

Noun ou M t

Kuam o‘o R d

Trail

Rd ‘alo Ma

Kuhio Hig hway

56

50 Hwy uali‘i m u Ka Puhi

Hanama‘ulu Wilcox Hospital

Hanama‘ulu Bay

Ahukini Rd

Lihu‘e Ric eS t

Na wi liw ili Rd

51

51 58

Lihu‘e Airport Kalapaki Beach

Nawiliwili Na Pali Coast Magazine

Lydgate Beach Park

Nukoli‘i Beach

Ka pu le Hw y

Kuhio Hwy

56

Nawiliwili Bay

Waipouli Beach Park

Waipouli Beach

583

Note of Caution: The waters around Kaua‘i are known for dangerous currents, large surf, shore breaks, and sneaker waves. It is critical that you check ocean conditions and consult with a lifeguard before going out into the water.

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Kapa‘a

Wailua Bay

Wailua Falls

50

Kapa‘a Beach Park

Ha leil io R Wailua d

580

Roads Dirt Roads Hiking Trails Snorkel Spots

Kealia Beach

581 Ka pa‘ aB ypa ss

Rd ola h a n Kai

Kamalu

il Tra

Kuilau Ridge Trail

e rlin we Po

Moa lepe Trai l

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EXPLORING THE ISLAND OF KAUA‘I

South Shore Roads Dirt Roads Hiking Trails Snorkel Spots Note of Caution: The waters around Kaua‘i are known for dangerous currents, large surf, shore breaks, and sneaker waves. It is critical that you check ocean conditions and consult with a lifeguard before going out into the water.

Pakala Beach

Ka um ua li‘i Hw y

Kalaheo

540 Rd

Hanapepe ‘Ele‘ele

Ha lew ili

50

Salt Pond Beach Park

Po‘ipu Beach

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Na Pali Coast Magazine

Hanapepe Bay Glass Beach

50

wy ali‘i H u m Kau Puhi

Lihu‘e

Ric eS t

Na wi liw ili Rd

Hw y

Nawiliwili

Kau mu ali‘ i

Tree Tunnel

Maluhia Rd

Lawa‘i

530

Koloa

Po‘ipu Rd

ss) Bypa

Lawa ‘i Rd

u Po‘ip loa– i (Ko inoik Ala K

Rd loa Ko

Lawa‘i Bay

Spouting Horn

520

Po‘ipu d Lawa‘i uR Beach Baby ‘ip o P Beach Koloa Landing Shipwreck Kiahuna Beach Brennecke Beach Po‘ipu Beach Beach Park

Ha‘ula Beach

Gillin’s Beach

Kawailoa Bay

Spouting Horn

Po‘ipu Beach

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EXPLORING THE ISLAND OF KAUA‘I

Militar y Boun dary

Polihale State Park

Waimea Pier

Ko ke‘ eR d

y Hw li‘i ua um Ka

Pacific Missile Range Facility Waterfall next to Koke‘e Road

50 Ke ka ha Rd Kekaha Beach Park

Waimea Canyon

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Na Pali Coast Magazine

Waimea Canyon

on ny a eC ai‘ o K

552 Rd Canyon Waimea

Wa ime aC any on T rail

550

Ku ku iT ra il

Waimea Canyon Lookout

West Side

550

Roads Dirt Roads Hiking Trails Kekaha

Kikiaola Small Boat Harbor

Note of Caution: The waters around Kaua‘i are known for dangerous currents, large surf, shore breaks, and sneaker waves. It is critical that you check ocean conditions and consult with a lifeguard before going out into the water.

Waimea

Lucy Wright Beach Park Pakala Beach

Ka um ua li‘i Hw y

50

Hanapepe ‘Ele‘ele

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ta k i n g i n

the Na Pali Coast 3

3a

6

7

4

Open Ceiling Cave

8

Awa‘awapuhi Valley Nu‘alolo Kai Miloli‘i Beach

9

Makaha Valley

13

12

10 11

Nu‘alolo Aina Valley

Milo li‘i R idge Trai l

Makole Roads Dirt Roads Hiking Trails Snorkel Spots

Polihale 90

Na Pali Coast Magazine

Note of Caution: The waters around Kaua‘i are known for dangerous currents, large surf, shore breaks, and sneaker waves. It is critical that you check ocean conditions and consult with a lifeguard before going out into the water.

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1

2

Ke ‘e Beach

5 Hanakapi ‘ai Beach

Wai ‘ahuakua Valley Double Door Cave

3 4

6

5

8

Honopu Beach

Koke‘e Aw State a ‘a wap uhi Park Tra 3.2 il 5M i

Nua lolo Tra il 3.2

il Tra u a lal Ka

Hanakapia Falls

5 7

Ho ‘olulu Valley

Hanakoa valley

M i.

Pohakanoa Falls

i.

4M

3a

i.

2M

Hanakapiai Falls Trail

Pirates Cave

2

1

Kalalau Valley Ka lal au Va 2 M lley Tra i. il

10

Hanakoa Lookout

.

11

5M i.

550

12

13

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Na Pali Coast Magazine

M y s t i c th e bay

H a n a l e i

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Na Pali Coast Magazine

M y s t i c tow-in

H a n a l e i

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M y s t i c get ting barre le d

H a n a l e i

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Na Pali Coast Magazine

M y s t i c sunset

H a n a l e i

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