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Above the fog: Conditions on Howell Mountain make for intense, collectable wines
THE PEAKS AROUND US
Above the fog: Conditions on Howell Mountain make for intense, collectable wines
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Henry Lutz, Register
A worker covers a grafted rootstock in a Howell Mountain vineyard.
LAYNE RANDOLPH Tucked away amongst pine, oak, and fir tree forests, the off-the-beaten-path Howell temperatures. Cooler temperatures translate to a later-than-usual bud break, extended hang time, and a later Mountain appellation is so humble harvest. These three factors allow the that it feels like a secret. Northeast fruit to reach its maximum potential of St. Helena and the Silverado Trail, and help develop intense color and flaeven its name is obscure – there is no vor in the grapes and resulting wines. mountain at all — the area sits on an Another feature contributing to the elevated plateau. The Howell Moun- fantastic fruit from Howell Mountain tain American Viticultural Association is the geological makeup of the area. (AVA) took its name from a tiny town Ages ago, volcanoes shaped Napa Valin the forest when it became the first ley. Although not a volcano’s site, the official sub-appellation in Napa Valley lava flows left behind white volcanic in 1983. ash adding to the geology that makes
Over a century before, French, Ital- the soils unique today. Howell Mounian, and German immigrants brought tain soil is a combination of white, their native winemaking traditions to crumbly volcanic ash known as “tufa” the area and began cultivating vine- and iron-rich red clay soil. yards. It did not take long for Howell Volcanic soil is distinct; it is nutriMountain wines to make an interna- ent-poor and quick-draining, two tional splash. qualities that force vines to struggle
In 1889, French vintners Jean and dig deep for nutrients. Vines Chaix and Jean Brun won a bronze that must work hard to survive yield medal at the Paris World Competition smaller grapes with a higher skinwith their Nouveau Medoc wine. The to-juice ratio. That ratio equates to W.S. Keyes Liparita Winery won the dark, vibrant color and deep, concengrand prize at the 1900 Paris Exposi- trated flavor. tion with its Howell Mountain Claret, But enhanced flavor is not the only and La Jota Vineyard Co.’s Blanco benefit; vineyards grown on a combiwine won a bronze medal. nation of volcanic and red clay soils
Those in the know revere Howell produce wine with higher tannins and Mountain for the notable American excellent age-ability – two hallmarks wine history, the secluded and tranquil of excellent and collectible wine. With setting, the incredible soil and position their position above the fog line, these above the fog line, and the world-re- soils help create the qualities synonynowned wines. mous with Howell Mountain wines.
Howell Mountain deserves the The Howell Mountain AVA posacclaim. The most impactful influ- sesses optimal conditions for growing ences contributing to the exceptional wine grapes. Perched above the fog fruit grown in the appellation are line, blessed with California sunshine, location and elevation. The AVA and home to blissful (and lucky) little peaks at 2,500 feet above sea level, grapes, the Howell Mountain AVA and the higher elevation offers cool stands above the rest.
Henry Lutz, Register
