RESISTANCE PRODUCT PORTFOLIO
LIFE ENHANCING TECHNOLOGY & INNOVATION BY NATALIE LORD
CONTENTS 2.
Introduction
20.
How KYMIRA Track works
3.
Market
21.
Design
4.
Competitors
22.
Fabric
5.
Price
23.
Style
6.
Market Diagrams
24.
Colour, Branding & Season
7.
Consumer
25.
Tech Pack
8.
Consumer Profile
28.
Sustainability
9.
Comparative Shop Report
29.
The future of KYMIRA Resistance
31.
Conclusion
32.
Bibliography
13.
KYMIRA Resistance Technology
16.
Integrating Biometrics
18.
Washable smart garment
19.
KYMIRA Track
cellajane.com, 2019
INTRODUCTION The evolution of textiles integrated with technology has shaped the way in which consumers interact with computing systems and their clothing. Specifically, in athleisure, with smart textiles generating a new wave of technology to enhance performance. Since 2013, KYMIRA Sport has spun new application fields, creating sportswear which harness athletes surrounding energy, converting it into infrared technology. As smart applications are still developing into the mainstream market, this leaves room for the
exploration and invention of new KYMIRA smart garments. Using academic research and analysing the current market, KYMIRA Resistance details how resistance-based textiles and motion-sensor thread can be transformed into a smart training top, providing athletes with insightful technology to support injury recovery. Exploring the current market and demonstrating theory across the athleisure design and product differentiation, will support how the garment is brought to market.
KYMIRA Sport , n.d.
2
Allen, 2019
Allen, 2019
“...if we can carve out our niche, that allows us greater operating freedom than if we went head to head with them.”
MARKET Establishing the concept and development of KYMIRA Resistance is the first step of the garment’s product lifecycle; the period over which an item is developed, brought to market and the sales and profits in its lifetime. During the initial concept, companies will often determine the products position in relation to existing product lines. This is referred to in the product innovation chart, curated by Graham J. Hooley et al (2008: 390). Depending on these categories and company resources, for a new product to develop they would have to select the appropriate type, or combination of types to maintain a healthy, balanced product portfolio (G Hooley et al, 2008: 378). KYMIRA Resistance would
Founder of KYMIRA Sport, Tim Brownstone (2019)
be measured as a ‘new to the world’ garment, new to the company and new to the market. As a result, KYMIRA would need to analyse the existing market; identifying competitors and how the garment would positively impact the consumer.
COMPETITORS Last year, research and advisory company, Gartner, forecast smart clothing will be one of the fastest growing areas in the industry, with worldwide shipments of wearable devices reaching 225 million in 2019, a 25.8% increase from 2018 (Bell, 2019). This suggests the innovation of wearable technology is thriving year on year. KYMIRA’s competitors, performance wear brand Under Armour, continuously work to revolutionise sportswear; from using infrared radiation to improve oxygen delivery in their clothing, to the integration of different systems which gives users self-monitoring data. The identification of targets and the definition of differential advantage establish the creation of the competitive positioning of the organisation and its
As fashion is constantly changing from season to season, current trends often grow in sales and remain popular before new fashions are introduced; resulting in a decline during the maturity phase of the lifecycle. Accurately identifying KYMIRA Resistance’s position in the market will allow the garment to continue across the product lifecycle year on year, securing itself as a staple athleisure product.
3
offerings (G Hooley et al, 2008: 34). Founder of KYMIRA Sport, Tim Brownstone (2019) states KYMIRA, “…are complementing rather than directly competing against the major brands – if we can carve out our niche, that allows us greater operating freedom than if we went head to head with them.” Taking this on board, KYMIRA Resistance identifies a gap in the market for sportswear which targets rehabilitation without the use of weights. Further, uses the combination of resistancelike textiles integrated with motion sensor technology to develop wearable athleisure. Differentiating from Under Armour, means KYMIRA can primarily focus on curating a smart garment suitable for the consumer.
4
PRODUCT INNOVATION CHART
NEWNESS TO THE COMPANY
HIGH
LOW
NEW PRODUCT LINE
NEW TO THE WORLD PRODUCTS
MODIFICATIONS TO EXISTING PRODUCTS
EXTENSIONS TO EXISTING PRODUCT LINES
COST REDUCTIONS
REPOSITIONING EXISTING PRODUCTS
LOW
HIGH
NEWNESS TO THE MARKET
MARKET LEVEL PYRAMID DIAGRAM
HAUTE COUTURE
PRICE Created as a diffusion line product, KYMIRA Resistance will have a retail price of £120. This is due to the use of integrated technology and high-quality textiles, with the cost of manufacturing predictably higher than standard athleisure. As KYMIRA source 95% of their product manufacture in the UK, KYMIRA Resistance would also use this factory to create the product, due to the existing resources and relationship (Kymira.co.uk,
2019). This could potentially make negotiating prices easier when raising the order. The differentiation of the garment also gives it an element of exclusivity, as it is primarily created for the influential athletes in the sports industry; portraying the KYMIRA brand and technology as something to be desired for, whilst still being accessible to gymgoers.
LUXURY FASHION BRIDGE BRANDS
DIFFUSION LINES
HIGH STREET next.co.uk, n.d.
5
ECONOMY BRANDS
6
toneitup.com, n.d.
CONSUMER PROFILE
AGE: 18-35 GENDER: MALE/FEMALE GENERATION: 21ST CENTURY OCCUPATION: PROFESSIONAL ATHLETE DISPOSABLE INCOME: £30K+ PER ANNUM BUYING MOTIVES: LUXURY HIGH STREET FAVOURITES: SELFRIDGES, FLANNELS, ALL SAINTS
CONSUMER Sports often depend on a training process that develops and maximises key talents. Resistance training is a primary ingredient in that process – in many sports perhaps the most important ingredient (Stone et al., 2007: 1). Due to this, KYMIRA Resistance is targeted at consumers prone to injury from extensive sports; for example, professional athletes. Athletes and trainers are always looking
for new methods to increase their performance and introducing a smart garment with resistance-like material and monitoring technology demonstrates a new, innovative training method. Targeting the 18-35 demographic, the garment will also be more affordable to this consumer, as they are ideally looking for a highquality garment with leading technology, over low-price or low quality.
7
theluxedollhouse, n.d.,boxing-crazy.blogspot.com, n.d., Personal Trainer Authority, 2019, Stifte, (n.d.)., thenextcars. com, n.d., ByEnzo, n.d., wellandfull.com, n.d., Halliday, 2019
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MARKET POSITIONING MAP SPORTSWEAR
RESISTANCE
RESISTANCE
CO M P E T I T I O N S H O P R E P O RT LOW PRICE A competitor analysis will explore KYMIRA Resistance’s athleisure competition, in relation to other brands and garment design. It will also determine the strengths and
HIGH PRICE
weaknesses of competitors within the market, providing strategies that will aid the decision making of KYMIRA Resistance.
FASHION 9
plyo.com, n.d., Wikipedia, 1996, stickpng.com, n.d., fasttrack.co.uk, 2016, pinclipart.com, n.d., conepluswallpapers.blogspot.com, 2018
COMPARATIVE CHART
SPORTSWEAR SEASON TRENDS
Nike Essential Women’s Running Top
underarmour.co.uk, n.d.
£45.00
technology, 93% Polyester / 7% Elastarell
Women Adidas by Stella McCartney run long-sleeve top
£99.95 adidas.co.uk, n.d.
COLOUR: Black and green SIZES: 2XS - L FABRIC: 79% recycled polyester / 21% elastane interlock
BRAND LOGO’S
COLOUR: Black SIZES: S - XXL FABRIC: UA Microthread
Gym Shark Vital Seamless Set
Nike Racerback Sports Bra
CYCLING SHORTS
Men’s UA Streaker ½ Zip
MATCHING SETS
Polyester
STATEMENT TRAINERS
Lord, 2019
£34.95
COLOUR: Black SIZES: XS - XXL FABRIC: Dri-FIT 100%
2019
Nike Air VaporMax Flyknit
Adidas Originals 3-stripes Cycling Shorts
gymshark.co.uk, n.d., footasylum.com, n.d., hibbett.com, n.d., Lord, 2019
While athletes can injure many areas of their bodies, a common area of injury is muscle strain, caused by athletic overuse or poor body conditioning. To aid and maintain recovery whilst preventing further damage, trainers must manage a personalised training plan. A training method which helps regain muscular strength is resistance training.
KYMIRA RESISTANCE TECHNOLOGY S. Ashley, 2018
13
for rehabilitative purposes as they allow a deeper stretch without putting pressure on a user’s joints. By incorporating a resistance-like material into KYMIRA Resistance, athletes will be able to train handsfree whilst their muscles work against the force of the material.
To do this, thermoplastic elastomer (TPE) will be weaved with polyester into Integrating resistance training a long-sleeved training can increase potential for top, creating the elasticity performance alterations, of rubber whilst retaining including improved the comfortability of maximum strength, power, athleisure clothing. TPE and both low and highmaterial is a mix of polymers intensity exercise endurance (plastic and rubber) which (Stone et al., 2007: 241). consist of materials with This can include anything both thermoplastic and from using free weights elastomeric properties. and weight machines, to Available as a very soft gel utilising your own body material, it combines the weight with resistance bands. look, feel and elasticity of Specifically, resistance bands, conventional thermoset typically made from natural rubber, with the processing or synthetic latex rubber, efficiency of plastics. For can alter the normal pattern smart textiles application, of resistance afforded by weaving and knitting, free weights (and perhaps has received widespread machines) by adding or interest since it can generate reducing resistance at large-area precision textile specific points within a surfaces (Schneegass and range of motion (Stone et Amft, 2018: 17). Therefore, al., 2007: 140). Mainly used to manufacture KYMIRA to increase muscle strength, Resistance, weaving will they can also improve integrate the materials. flexibility; aiding recovery
14
gymshark.co.uk, 2019
INTERGRATING BIOMETRICS Besides incorporating TPE, the additional use of fibre-optic motion sensor thread will act as a biometric monitoring system, capturing the benefits of KYMIRA Resistance. Schneegass and Amft (2018: 19) researched how a non-conductive fabric, such as polymer, forms a carrier frame called substrate for conductive threads. In the KYMIRA Resistance garment, the conductive layer (fibre-optic thread) and substrate (polyester) will be embedded into each other during the weaving process. By integrating the fibreoptic thread and connecting different motion sensors at key joint areas, the joint movement will be tracked by the amount of bending at a defined sensor point in the fibre. These joints include
TPE CHARACTERISTICS • • • • • • • •
Flexural fatigue resistance Electrical properties Tear & abrasion resistance Resistance to low & high temperatures High impact strength Colourability Recyclable Resistance to chemicals & weathering British Plastics Federation (n.d.)
15
sunwovenstudio.com, n.d.
the front and back of the shoulders, elbows and at either side of the waist. In addition, an electronic tag will come as a detachable component, communicating via Bluetooth to a smartphone app. With the help of the integrated sensors, the tag will record algorithms and turn the results from the sensors into information. For comfortability purposes, the small component will be covered by the material, through a pocket on the inside of the garment near the hip. Integrating these two elements within the textiles, creates unique athleisure, where electronics and textiles can be integrated into a stretchable, breathable material. 16
laurenelyce.com, 2018
WASHABLE SMART GARMENT The challenge smart garments face is regular usage and cleaning procedures, which critically affects the longer-term reliability of the technology. A typical example is washability and, in particular, the laundry cycle that a smart garment can sustain without deteriorating in function (Schneegass and Amft, 2018: 2). TPE’s have the ability to stretch significantly, yet still return to their near original shape, keeping the garment intact. The motion sensor thread can also withstand repeated washings that athletic clothing typically undergoes. Researchers at the University of British Columbia Okanagan’s School of Engineering
recently discovered how a low-cost sensor can be interlaced into textiles and composite materials. When the stretchable yarn sensor is woven into spandex material and then wrapped into a stretchable silicone sheath, the sheath protects the conductive layer against harsh conditions, allowing for washable, wearable sensors. By taking this approach into KYMIRA Resistance, weaving the fibre-optic motion sensor thread into the polyester material could potentially act as a sheath and increase the longevity of the garment. As a detachable element, the electronic tag will need to be removed when the garment needs washing.
Walker, n.d.
18
HOW KYMIRA TRACK WORKS IN 3 SIMPLE STEPS
1
TRACK Whether you need to travel, purchase a new outfit or check your online banking, mobile applications provide a portable, easy-to-use tool for everyday activities. As wearable technology, incorporating an app alongside KYMIRA Resistance, will allow athletes to monitor their recovery in real-time; benefitting their progress and rehabilitation. Although athletes usually use more complicated systems, where they are keen to acquire useful data which will benefit their training and contribute to their progression, the easier and more self-explaining such a system is, the more likely it will be used (Schneegass and Amft, 2018: 362). For that reason, when the user opens the
app, there will be a ‘sign in’ process, whereby KYMIRA Track will ask for the garment number (identified on the garment label), linking the app, via Bluetooth, to the user’s electronic tag. This will be followed by a series of questions, where the user will be able to provide details about their injury. If the consumer is using the garment purely for training purposes or everyday wear, the app will allow them to choose this as an option when the app is open. Similarly, if the athlete has already recovered from their injury. From the information gathered, KYMIRA Track will feature personalised exercises to improve wellbeing, as well as provide data and a link to the KYMIRA Sport website.
Open the KYRMIA Track mobile app
TRACK
2
Wear your KYRMIA Resistance training top and start your training
TRACK TRACK
TRACK Don’t resist your KYMIRA journey
PROFILE
Enter your email:
Create your password:
KYMIRA Resistance garment number:
MY DATA RESISTANCE EXCERCISE MY GARMENT
HISTORY
Where is my garment number?
19
Pierce, 2017
HELP & SUPPORT
3
Sign up and connect your garment through your KYMIRA Resistance garment number 20
jdsports.co.uk, n.d.
FABRIC As the garment must remain ‘skin-tight’ on the user’s body for the motion detectors to sense movement, it is vital it must be comfortable for the user to wear whilst training. KYMIRA’s emerging print designer, Eerika Leino (n.d.) stated, “It’s still quality and practicality before aesthetics in sportswear, and materials are beyond important to consider.” By using TPE combined with polyester, the garment consists of durable, wrinkle-resistant, lightweight
DESIGN When product segmentation is well executed, it also results in product differentiation; offering unique benefits that your competitor does not. The uniqueness and differentiation of KYMIRA Resistance, in relation to its competitors, is primarily focused on the mix of materials to aid recovery. Nevertheless, to appeal to my target demographic, the garment must be an attractive piece of athletic clothing, that retains KYMIRA’s professional, high-end brand image.
and breathable properties, whilst offering a soft-touch appeal and flexibility; necessary for exercise and high-intensity training. Polyester is also inexpensive, recyclable and durable with a low moisture absorbency. Alongside this, incorporating KYMIRA Sports raglan seams and flatlock stitching within the design, which has already been used in their IR50 range, will allow users “to recover in absolute comfort” (KYMIRA Sport, n.d.).
“It’s still quality and practicality before aesthetics in sportswear, and materials are beyond important to consider” KYMIRA’s emerging print designer, Eerika Leino
21
22
Rachel, n.d.
COLOUR AND BRANDING Beyond the material, sportswear has become an increasingly popular trend as casual day-to-day wear, with brands creating practical sportswear which doubles up as fashionable clothing. Not only does KYMIRA Resistance need to compete with technology focused brands, but also fast-fashion retailers such as Missguided and Pretty Little Thing, who have their own range of style-focused activewear. This ranges from matching two-piece snake print sets, to crop tops and cycling shorts, identifying that attractive looking apparel can have the potential to lift an athlete’s confidence. As KYMIRA Resistance is technology focused, designed for quality and longevity, it is considered a ‘slow fashion’ garment; encouraging slower production and lower carbon footprints.
STYLE For athletes who live and breathe sportswear, the style and fit of the material is almost as important as the benefits the gear provides. As the purpose of KYMIRA Resistance is to remain skintight on the user’s body, the design focuses on the upper body area forming a long-sleeved training top which incorporates a ‘thumb-hole.’ This enables the garment to sit firmly on the user’s arms, remaining secure and prevents pulling away throughout training.
The additional zip also allows natural range of motion. Consequently, the responsibility for selection and proper use of these technologies will fall largely on the individual consumer (IRMA, 2018: 43). As there are many different body types in the sports, all-inclusive sizing is imperative for the garment to be successful in all athletic industries. Therefore, KYMIRA Resistance will be available in sizes, XS, S, M, L and XL.
The design aims to sustain the brands identity, using black as the primary colour, embodying a sleek, stylish and natural fit that consumers can feel comfortable in. As the garment is targeting both men and women, black is also a neutral colour, appealing to both genders. Another visible trend in sportswear, is using big, bold brand names which contrast against the original garment colour. The likes of Nike, Puma and Adidas use this in their athleisure, as well as KYMIRA in their infrared running collection. Recognising this suits the garments brand image, KYMIRA Resistance will feature an enlarged KYMIRA logo in white along the back of the neck. In a smaller print, the logo will also be on the front of the left shoulder. This offers a discreet yet stylish take on sportswear branding, capturing the company’s brand identity and allowing room for further adaptation.
asos.com, n.d.
SEASON
23
Ideally, KYMIRA Resistance would be an all yearround garment, as athletes in various competitive sports train all year round. Nonetheless, TPE has outstanding thermal properties as well as material
stability when exposed to different temperatures. The colour black also absorbs heat, making KYMIRA Resistance a perfect product to be brought to market during the autumn/winter months.
24
Women’s long-sleeved training top
RESISTANCE T E C H PAC K
25
Women’s long-sleeved training top
Women’s long-sleeved training top
Motion sensor thread points
PRICE
£120
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN
UK
DEPARTMENT
Training
SLEEVE
BUST/ CHEST
WAIST
HIP
XS S M L XL
XS S M L XL
SIZE CHART - WOMENS LENGTH (cm) CHEST (cm) WAIST (cm) 68 78 62 70 84 68 72 90 75 74 96 85 76 104 92 SIZE CHART - MENS LENGTH (cm) CHEST (cm) WAIST (cm) 71 85 65 73 90 73 75 95 81 77 100 89 79 105 97
HIPS (cm) 84 88 92 96 102
SLEEVE (cm) 62 66 70 74 78
HIPS (cm) 80 88 96 104 112
SLEEVE (cm) 43 44 45 46 47
unsplash.com, n.d.
Elven, 2018
SUSTAINABILITY Environmental and cost pressures now require more and more garments to be recyclable. When considering the materials for KYMIRA Resistance, choosing TPE material over natural or synthetic latex rubber used in standard resistance bands, means the garment could be a potential sustainable product. Not only does TPE have longevity from the elasticity properties, but the material could also be reused similar to plastics. The British Plastics federation (n.d.) state that TPE processing scrap, reject parts or end of life products can be easily reprocessed, whereas most thermosetting elastomers end up as land fill. Shorter cycle times, lower energy consumption and less waste also contributes to the environmental benefits of TPE (Fagerström, 2013). There are several material components included in KYMIRA Resistance, such as the fibre optic thread, motion sensors and an additional electronic tag, which makes it challenging to recycle the whole garment. Not to mention
the polyester and TPE blend. Taking this into consideration, KYMIRA Resistance could look at adapting to use recycled polyester (rPET), in order for the creation of a more stainable garment. rPET is the melting down of existing plastic and re-spinning it into new polyester fibre. This can be obtained through plastic bottles or containers; material that’s not biodegradable and would otherwise end up in landfill or the ocean (Elven, 2018). Known for prioritizing sustainable fabric options, American apparel brand, Nau, argues (2018) “…Polyester accounts for approximately 60 percent of the world’s production of PET about twice what’s used in plastic bottles - developing a nonvirgin supply chain for polyester fiber has the potential to massively impact global energy and resource requirements.” Although this may provide a solution for the polyester, the blend of textiles, including the motion-sensor system, would still need to be improved responsibly to create recyclable technology. 28
thelittledeer.co.uk, n.d.
THE FUTURE OF KYMIRA RESISTANCE As KYMIRA Resistance focuses on resistance-based textiles, the product can potentially be expanded across other forms of athleisure, for example, training leggings. KYMIRA Resistance leggings can be used to aid muscle strain in athletes’ legs, appealing to a wider range of sports, including football or running. The leggings would include a foot strap, in order to keep the material on the user’s body and be available in both women’s and men’s versions; with men being able to wear them as an under garment. Developing a collection may also include incorporating different garment strengths. As resistance bands are available in various resistance
From athleisure impacting streetwear, to streetwear trends influencing sportswear design, the market for fashion-led sportswear is growing. As seen in the competition shop report, Adidas use bright colours in their athleisure, whilst sportswear brand, Gym Shark, have also used colours and cropped clothing in their collection. Whilst KYMIRA Resistance needs to appeal to its primary demographic, the garment will also potentially need to keep up with trends to compete in the market. According to Michi founder Michelle Watson (2017), polyester fabric is easier to use for digital printing because it takes to colour much more easily
intensities to suit the user, KYMIRA Resistance could explore using different amounts of TPE material in the garment to be more personalised for the athlete; producing a range of tops and leggings in a variety of resistances. However, this would not come without its complications. A key challenge for KYMIRA Resistance is the manufacturing of the technology. Whilst it is designed for application, this often does not scale to the large volume production concept used in fabric production (Schneegass and Amft, 2018: 7). Rising the amount of material in the textiles would increase the complexities and cost during manufacturing. 29
than nylon. Therefore, as the collection grows, KYMIRA Resistance could consider a range of colours, without affecting the fabric. To enable ease of use for the user, the future of the garment could also include a washable electronic tag. This would involve incorporating the properties of the electronic tag within the clothing material, allowing the user to still monitor their performance on KYMIRA Track, without having to remove the component when washing. However, this technology would need to become available to the wider market, allowing electronic systems to be assembled directly in textiles.
gymshark.com, n.d.
30
CONCLUSION Reflecting on the garment’s lifecycle journey, from concept to bringing the product to market, it is inevitable that one day something bigger, better and more affordable will come along; as trends and technology adapts in the market and new manufacturing techniques take place. However, at this time, the emergence of smart garments into the larger conscious of the general public is yet to occur. As prices decline and availability
becomes widespread, smart garment use will likely become more pervasive (IRMA, 2018:43). Bringing KYMIRA Resistance may be a costly risk for the company in terms of manufacturing and the significance sustainability in fashion has. Regardless, the garment recognises a gap for a new, innovative smart textile design; focusing on performance benefits and staying on trend in the current athleisure market for the target demographic.
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RESISTANCE PRODUCT PORTFOLIO
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LIFE ENHANCING TECHNOLOGY & INNOVATION BY NATALIE LORD