UNIT 1- CONTEXTUAL STUDIES FOR FASHION RETAIL
1990ssex and the city
Emancipation of women
1950’sMarylyn Monroe
TV/film Feminism (second and third wave)
Suffraget tes
cultures
Working women
Technology
war Make do and mend campaign
Fashion throughout history: 1900-2000
Millstones
Christian Dior
Man on the moon 1940- nylon (stockings
music
1960s/70s: festival- hippie style
1960s-twiggy
Alexandra McQueen
Introduction of new fabrics
Celebrities, models, icons
Elvis
designers
1990s- kate moss
Organic – eco friendly
Moschino
Animals rights activists (faux fur)
Vivienne Westwood Mary Quant
– Queen Victoria’s death in 1901 saw the end of the Victorian era and its fashions and began the Edwardian era. Women's
WomenSkirt were longer, particularly at the back which formed a train, slim at hip to achieve the Edwardian Silhouette, made possible through pleating. Shirts were high neck.
Men- three piece suits were the standard clothing for men during this decade, accessorised with a hat such as bowlers
first sneaker was designed in 1917, by Keds (Fashion Through the Decades, 2016)
Decade of the great war 1914-1918. This influenced fashion heavily as clothing became more practical
womens – dresses comfier, above the ankle,clothes without corsets (paul poriet)
Women'sflapper girl Art deco style Waistline dropped Hem line rose
The 1920’s era is unparalleled by the sheer magnitude of cultural change. As the old order of class society crumbled, there was a massive liberation in the creative arts around the developed world. (Glamourdaze.com, 2016)
Mens –pre war: slimmer suits. War: softer suits, miltery style. Oxford shoes. Wool and linen walking suits were appreciated for their practicality. Asymmetrical designs were featured in bodices and skirts and preferred fabrics were satin, taffeta, chiffon and lightweight silks, with washable cottons to ease hot summers. (Vintagefashionguild.org, 2016)
Men'sT-shirts became popular for soldiers Suits became impractical, they were not worn regularly until after the war
Men'sbrighter colours Slim jackets Patterned jumpers
Women'sPadded shoulders Drawstring bags (gasmask) Clothing more practical due to 2nd world war, working women
1930- The fashion of the thirties
is usually over shadowed by the great depression, but the 1930s were full of glamour and style. The fashion industry underwent many changes during this decade in response to the severe economic hardships of the time. Factory made garments (what we now refer to as “ready to wear”) became popular, because clothing could be mass produced for far less than made-to-order custom garments. (VintageDancer.com, 2014)
1940- A shift in dress
happened from during WWII to after the war ended. The styles of this time signified the darkness of this particular time in history. (Pearson, 2016)
Women'sHigh waist Cheaper fabrics Pants more widely accepted
Men'sHigh waist for men's too Polo tops Short selves
From a fashion point of view, this was the rise of the ‘ready to wear’ phenomenon. Clothing was now being manufactured ‘en mass’ and with greatly improved standards in construction and cloth quality. (Foxy, 2016)
Men'sSlim suits Leather jackets Brighter colours
Men'sTight pants Platforms Valour and terry cloth fabrics
The early 1970s fashion scene was very similar to 1969, just a bit more flamboyant. It wouldn’t be hyperbole to say that a fashion revolution occurred in the 1970s.
Women'sFull skirts Mid calf Bullet bra
(Retrowaste.com, 2016)
1960s fashion was bi-polar in just about every way. The early sixties were more reminiscent of the 1950s — conservative and restrained; certainly more classic in style and design. The late 1960s were the exact opposite. Bright, swirling colors. Psychedelic, tie-dye shirts and long hair and beards were commonplace. (Retrowaste.com, 2016)
Men'sPants became more fitted Flared pants became more popular Beatles were style icons
Women'sTight pants Platforms Flower patterned dress shirts
Women'sMini dress Mini skirt Jumper dress
Women'sOversized tops Denim Tie dye
1990- While not quite as loud as the
eighties, the nineties took that attitude and tried to be a little smarter and a little classier. (Retrowaste.com, 2016)
1980- 1980s fashion can be
commended for its creativity. Some fashion designers abandoned history, some borrowed from it, while others tried to design the future. Designers abandoned all convention — and their creations were interesting to say the least. (Retrowaste.com, 2016)
Women'sHigh waist line Vibrant accessories leggings
Men'sCaps Rebook trainers Baggy jeans
Men'sTracksuits Denim More trainers
2000- new millennium
The so-called ‘mash-up’ decade got its name because it is the first decade that didn’t have a certain style for the most part. In the early 2000s fashion designers rather recycled already existing high-end fashion styles from the past decades and continued the minimalist look of the 1990s in a more polished way. (Speak-fashion.de, 2016)
Women'sPinks Shorts/mini skirts Thick vest stops
Men'sV neck t-shirts Shutter shades scarves
For their Autumn/Winter 2016 campaign video however, they’ve upped the fun factor even higher, proving their garments are worthy of a cool cocktail hour and are striking yet sophisticated looks to hit the dance floor with. (Wonderland Magazine, 2016)
Task 1- Sophisticated heritage The renowned fashion house Hugo Boss has been around since the mid 1920’s and has remained a popular brand, particularly for men with its sophisticated and stylish suits. Each season they produce a variety of new designs which reflect its sophisticated heritage and show how the modern mans wardrobe structure has gone unchanged throughout the decades. Their AW16 campaign contained a video titled ‘Rhythm and Moves’ showcasing their latest creations. As the classic three piece suit is not everyday wear for everyman nowadays, this house, like many others, have adapted their garments to suit to the modern man whilst still including sophisticated style. Some of the items are still made from wool and other classic materials such as tweed and gabardine, however with the introduction of new materials wool mixes and polyester blends are more popular as they are easier to care for. Double breasted jackets have decreased in popularity and also been replaced by blazers. Shirts and ties still feature in this campaign as well as polo necks, however the waistcoat does not appear as much, this garment is mainly worn at formal occasions nowadays.
Liberated fashion Christian Dior new look(early 50s)
Body positive image
Hour glass figure
Post - war
Task 2- The 1950’s
Marilyn Monroe
First ever playboy published
women
Pin up girls
Music- Rock ‘n’ Roll
Rosa parks refuses to give seat up on the bus
leather African American origins, however due to racism most artists went unrecognised.
Elvis Presley Colourful
Gelled hair
Fight against racism
1950s- Rock ‘n’ Roll Elvis Presley's style also struck a chord with the teen market. Youth everywhere began sporting his slicked back 'duck tail' hair style and long sideburns. Young men in the 1950s began to wear brighter colours and sharp, flashy suits were very trendy. Loose, unbuttoned shirts with upturned collars also became fashionable. (wiliam, 2016)
Fashion in the1950s was heavily defined by the music of the time and the rise of Rock ‘n’ Roll drastically changed garments worn by both men and women. This type of music is a mixture of many different other genres such as rhythm and blues and country. This mixture of genres was one of the main influences for the fashion worn by the artists as well as the young fans, as different genres have different origins and therefore different cultures.
Rhythm and Blues originated in the 40s and is a popular genre of African American music however due to racism in society of the time, African American Rock ‘n’ Roll artists often went unrecognised and uncredited. Therefore artists such as Elvis stand as the perfect icon for the development of fifties fashion. The ‘brighter colours’ and ‘loose’ shirts became popular with the rebellious younger generation who were big enforcers of the Rock ‘n’ Roll movement. Despite the fact that many Rock ‘n’ Roll artists were male, females took the concept and its trends and made them suited women, mixing the Christian Dior ‘new look’ with the bright colours and bold prints of the Rock ‘n’ Roll Frenzy. Furthermore, the infamous Marilyn Monroe stood as an icon for 1950s fashion and the two were frequently saw together and therefore women took influences from her as well as the Rock ‘n’ Roll movement. Big colourful patterned skirts were worn as well as flatter shoes allowing them to dance and be more comfortable. The Concept of Rock ‘n’ Roll and its icons fully inspired the fashion of the 50’s and developed clothing from the practicality of the 40’s to the fun diverse style of the 50’s.
The Rock ‘n’ Roll concept is still enforced today with celebrities and bands such as the Arctic Monkeys producing music of this genre as well as wearing garments of the 50’s style. This shows how trends continually become fashionable again and how history influences what we wear today.
1950’s – influence of playboy/liberation of women The introduction of the men’s lifestyle magazine ‘Playboy’ in 1953 brought forth a new vision of women, presenting them as ‘sexually aggressive’ and liberated individuals with the rise of the swimsuit and other swimwear. Starlets such as Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor promoted this new look resulting in it becoming accepted and accessible to the average woman, introducing ‘fashion trends that reflected a more permissive attitude in the American culture.’ (Scholarcommons.usf.edu, 2016)
Despite the new found freedom of loose blouses and wide skirts the necessity of a tight clinched waist was still an important look, shown through Christian Dior’s ‘New Look’. Although it did touch on a ‘slightly more masculine edge’ with pieces like the ‘Bar Suit’, he still felt that women’s fashion must concentrate on forming an hourglass figure to an extent that can be described as ‘beyond the mere nipping in of waists’. (Lady JoJo's, 2011)
Contrasting to the similar ideas of freedom in women’s fashion, manifesting itself in the form of bathing suits and bikinis, the concept of women’s clothing running parallel to men’s produced a positive impact allowing women freedom through comfort. Elegance in clothing gained a new notion, women no longer were confined to lace, tight collars and extravagant sleeving as it was agreed that ‘Elegance in clothes means freedom to move freely’. (LoveToKnow, 2016)
Fashion over the years has become a strong form of self expression and the 1950’s was a particular era for women beginning to express themselves through their clothing. The first edition of Playboy, featuring the iconic Marilyn Monroe provides a key example of how women at the time were showcasing themselves as ‘sexually aggressive’ and ‘liberated’. Women were no longer ‘confined to lace’ and ‘tight collars’, they could wear ‘loose blouses’ and ‘wide skirts‘ and be more comfortable in clothing, just as the men were. Despite this, Christian Dior’s ‘New Look’ still remained a popular concept for women with the ‘tight clinched waist’, forming the perfect hour glass figure. However the production and trends of looser fitting garments were the beginning of the development of women's fashion and their own self expression through their clothing.
1950’s – post war, the beginning of freedom The second world war brought around revelations in women's fashion; clothing became more practical rather than a luxury or a statement, but after the war women became more invested in their garments again, as clothing rationing was no more and they began to develop the key trends of the 50s.
Fashion in the 1950’s varied greatly from the beginning to the end. Maybe not quiet as extreme as the 60s, 1950s fashion saw the introduction of many new styles as well as many styles that paid homage to the 1920s. The waistline was a major issue in the 1950s. Some women really like the snug fit of the Dior dresses while others liked the dresses with no waistline, often referred to as “sack dresses.” (retrowaste.com,2016)
The early years of the 50’s paralleled to the late 40s, with Christian Dior’s ‘New Look’ dominating women's wardrobes. The ‘snug fit’ dresses created by this infamous fashion house remained a popularity throughout the primary years of this decade however this concept dwindled towards the end of the era with ‘sack dresses’ becoming more trendy. Despite this, in todays society the ‘clinched waist’ of the 50’s has became widely popular again with celebrities such as the Kardashians endorsing this look, as well as Dior’s ss11 catwalk reigniting their original new look style, showing how historical fashion trends are always coming back around.
Task 4
Dress Down Diner
RRP: £18
RRP: £30
RRP: £20 Polka dot print
RRP: £16 RRP: £25
RRP: £25
RRP: £45
RRP: £25 circle skirt
Dress Down Diner
RRP: £40 leather jacket RRP: £55 bigger petticoat skirt
RRP: £18
RRP: £40 Circle skirt RRP: £16 RRP: £35
Dress Down Diner ‘Dress Down Diner’ is a spring/summer collection inspired by the 1950’s era, particularly the Rock ‘n’ Roll revelation. Diners were the ‘it’ scene for rebellious teenagers and therefore the place where fashion trends flourished. This collection features pieces inspired by the 50s that have been adapted to accommodate modern day trends, particularly pieces that would have been considered occasion/dressy wear. In ‘Dress Down Diner’ the classic occasion pieces have transformed into casual day pieces with the use of day time accessories and shoes. For example the circle skirts have been combined with trainers to dress the outfit down. My collection links to the 1950s as it contains many garments that reflect the 50s era including circle skirts, polka dot prints and leather jackets. As the 50s fashion trends remain popular with vintage lovers, the audience for this collection would be varied. However the pieces in the collection are primarily aimed at a female audience between the ages of 18-50, with a price range of £15-£60.
Task five – comparative shop High street product Description
Inspiration era
Links
Price: £39 material: 100% cotton This check tunic dress from Miss Selfridge has ¾ frilly sleeves and a loose fit making it perfect for casual and smart looks.
poet shirt – 1980s (Gingham and tartan have a Scottish heritage and have been popular prints throughout centuries)
The frilly sleeves of a poet shirt are adapted to this piece to accommodate ¾ sleeves, this style was popular with the new romantics fashion of the 1980s.
Price: £40 material: 100% viscose This red checked shirt dress from River Island also has ¾ sleeves that are turned up. It also features a belt around the waist to add more shape to the dress in comparison to the tunic dress.
Red Tartan – punk rock 1980s Shirt dress- 1950s
Price: £427.41 material: lining 100% cotton, outer elastase 3%, cotton 42%,polyester 55%. This checked sleeveless dress from the Vivienne Westwood collection Anglomania features a grey and white print, with a fitted top and pleated skirt. This is less shapely than the River Island piece however is more dressier than the two high street products.
Drop waist dress- 1920s Bigger skirt piece – 1960s Tartan- 1980s Vivienne Westwood (Anglomaina collection is a sister collection inspired by Westwood's Earlier collections.
. A Red Tartan print shirt was a classic top for punk rockers in the 1980s. Here River Island have adapted this look to a shirt dress to accommodate new trends. Furthermore the shirt dress was a popular piece in the 1950s so River Island have taken two previous trends and altered them to fit in with AW16 guidelines. Like the high-street pieces, 80s punk has been an inspiration for this dress with the colours adapted to fit in with modern trends(grey scale). However this dress features other links to another era. Drop waist dresses were popular in the 20s however were adapted to have bigger skirt pieces in the 60s, much like this Vivienne Westwood dress.
Task five – comparative shop High street product Description
Inspiration era
Links
Price: £55 material: 58% viscose, 42% Lyocell These Topshop palazzo pants feature a metallic Pinspot pattern to add detail to the blush pink material. They have more detailing than the misguided pair and less than the guess pair showing its mid price range.
Palazzo pants in modern day fashion are inspired by the hippie trends of the 1970s.
Palazzo pants are inspired by the wide fit pants of the 1970s hippie movements and have been adapted by many stores and designers to fit in with modern trends. However here Topshop have added a Pinspot pattern reminiscent of the 1950s polka dot fashion to increase its target audience.
Price: £30 material: 100% polyester Contrasting to the other two pieces, these Palazzo pants from fast fashion brand Misguided are entirely plain but still stand out with the Bright white fabric.
Palazzo style- 1970s hippie era.
Price: £119 material: 100% polyester These Marciano (Guess) Palazzo Pants feature a bold print to contrast from the delicate see through material. These pants have more detailing compared to the other pieces highlighting the difference between high street and designer.
Abstract print with bright colours – 1960s.
Pinspot- 1950s polka dot.
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Colour blocking – 1960s.
See through clothing60s/70s.
Again these palazzo pants take inspiration from 70s wide leg pants and similar to the Topshop pants, Misguided have taken the 70s frame and added the 60s trend of colour blocking to the piece. However unlike the 60s, the pants are not a vibrant colour but rather a bright white colour in order to fit in with the modern day monochrome trend.
These designer Palazzo pants feature a bright abstract print linking them to the prints of the 60s. The 1960s were full of a variation of bold prints and here Marciano by Guess have adapted the bold prints and created an abstract look with vibrant colours. Furthermore Marciano have used a sheath material to associate the pants with 60s/70s fashion. Designers at the time were using similar materials which when under catwalk lights became transparent.
Task five – comparative shop High street product
Description
Inspiration era Links
Price: £12.99 Material:100% polyester This t-shirt sold by New Look has been produced in khaki green, a popular colour for AW16. This shirt is styled with a black bralet underneath, a popular look to accommodate these style of tshirts.
Mesh clothing has been popular throughout the decades but this t-shirt is particularly inspired by 1990s fashion.
Price: £95 material: 100% nylon This black mesh dress from ASOS features a floral embroidery and black body lining making it more of an occasion piece compared to the New Look shirt.
Floral embroidery has been around for centuries and comes back into fashion decade after decade. Mesh dress -80s Midi skirt length- 40s
This dress from ASOS has a mixture of three decade of inspiration. The mesh dress was a popular outfit in the 80s, however its midi length shows 40s style inspiration. Furthermore the floral embroidery, which has been popular through the centuries, makes this piece link to modern day fashion as many AW16 pieces feature floral machine embroidery.
Price: £499 material: tulle with crystal embellishment Jovani dresses are usually heavily embellished and this piece is no exception. This tulle see through dress is embellished with pink crystals to appear more elegant and therefore is graceful than the two high street pieces.
Embellishment- 1920s Halter neck dresspopular in the 50s, started in the 20s.
The mesh dress is reminiscent of the 60s, when designers began to add see through clothing to their collections. Unlike the New Look t-shirt, this dress is more elegant and therefore contrasts to 90s grunge inspiration for the khaki top. The heavy embellishment shows the 1920s inspiration, in this era flapper girls wore heavily embellished dresses. Furthermore the halter neck shape of the dress is again inspired by the 20s as well as the 50s. Overall this dress features three inspiration eras that help it to link well to modern fashion as high neck tops, mesh clothing and embellishments are popular AW16 trends.
The mesh t-shirt with a bralet/top underneath was a popular 90s style and this shirt has been dyed khaki green in order to fit in with the AW16 colour palate.
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Task five – comparative shop High street product Description
Inspiration era
Links
Bomber jackets have influences from both world wars (1910&1940s) and are inspired by flight jackets worn by pilots. However the animal print is reminiscent of the 1960s.
Animal prints come back into fashion year after year. It is timeless print that has continued from the 1960s. Similar to the 60s, here we have a leopard print pattern, however to add a modern twist Miss Selfridge have made the print black rather than the original brown colour.
Price: £15 material: 100% This bomber from fast fashion brand Boohoo contrasts to the Miss Selfridge bomber as it is a block colour of khaki green rather than a patterned piece.
This bomber jacket has a stronger link to the 1940s and world war II with the army colour khaki green as its all over colour.
Flight jackets were worn by pilots in both world wars, however the khaki green is reminiscent of world war II, with soldiers wearing a the army green uniform. This piece therefore holds a stronger link to the original bomber jacket compared to the other two garments. Furthermore as khaki green is a popular colour for AW16 it fits in well with the trends of modern day.
Price: £1510 material: 100% silk This bomber from guess has a lot of floral detailing making it contrast to the other two jackets and the lighter AW16 colours also helps it to stand out against the other two pieces.
Bold floral patterns1950s
As this jacket has more detailing, you can tell it is higher end designer compared to the other two jackets. It holds a strong link to the 50s with its bold floral print pattern which was popular with swing dresses at the time, while the bomber jacket style hold links to the 1910/40s. The floral print bomber has been really popular throughout SS16 and is now following through to AW16 therefore meaning guess have adapted the classic bomber jacket well to fit in with modern day.
Price: £45 Material: 87% polyester 13% elastane This bomber from Miss Selfridge contrasts to typical animal print garments as its entirely black rather than the usual brown/tan colours.
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Task five – comparative shop High street product Description
Inspiration era
Links
Price: £18 Material: 100% PU This Faux leather skirt from misguided features many key trends for AW16. Faux leather is a popular fabric on the high street at the moment as well as the colour grey.
The mini skirt is a infamous garment created by Welsh designer Mary Quant in the 1960s, its one of the most famous garments constructed in that era and its popularity grows year after year. All three of these skirts are inspired by quants original style and have been adapted to fit modern trends.
All three skirts link to the inspiration era due to its May Quant style length, and this misguided skirt is the perfect example of how the 60s garment has been adapted to modern day fashion. You can see from the three different stores how the 60f fashion is coming back into style. Misguided have added grey leather to the skirt to it in with the trends of AW16.
Price: £32 material: 36% nylon 64% viscose This knitwear mini skirt from River Island features a colour block pattern with an AW16 colour palate. Knitwear is also a popular fashion this season.
As well as the mini skirt shape, this skirt features colour blocking, another popular fashion in the 1960s. It is also a knitwear fabric which is again another popular fashion in the 60s.
Not only does this skirt feature the mini skirt length but also the colour block palate of the 60s, as well as the popular knit wear fabric. All three of these features that were originally popular in the 60s have been revitalised by high street fashion for the AW16 season.
Price: £425 material: 100% leather (suede) This chevron suede skirt designed by MIH jeans sold by Selfridges also features a colour block pattern with an AW16 colour pattern.
Similar to the River Island skirt, this MIH jeans mini skirt also features a colour block pattern, however the suede material contrast to the knit but ties in with the 60s due to suede being a popular choice for garments.
As with the River Island skirt, the MIH jeans skirt features the colour blocking, but also is made from real leather suede, a popular fabric towards the end of the 60s, particularly with the hippie movement. You can see the clear inspiration from the 60s era and how it has influenced all three skirts, as we move from fast fashion to designer you can see the difference due to the patterns and materials.
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Task five – comparative shop High street product Description
Inspiration era
Links
The cape has been around since the introduction of fairy tales but were made popular in the 1910s, particularly with the red cloth cape design by Paul Poiret. They have then reinvented themselves year after year. Furthermore the fringe detailing could be said to be inspired by the 70s era.
The shape of the cape in 1910 contrast to this New Look piece. However the wool like material and fringing is reminiscent of the 70s era, which has been inspiring many pieces the past few seasons. The grey colour help the piece to further fit in with current trends.
Price: £995 material: 86% wool, 10% cashmere, 2% elastane, 2% polyamide This burgundy wool blend cashmere cape from burgundy is not only designer but a much higher quality compared to the other two garments.
Even though the 1910s was the beginning of the garment, the wool blend cape became popular in the 70s, so all three of these garments will be inspired particularly by this era.
The shape of this cape is similar to a pre 1910 designs, however as with the New Look piece, the wool material shows its 70s inspiration while the burgundy colour helps it to fit in with other AW16 trends and garments.
Price: £42 material:88% Polyester, 9% Viscose, 3% Elastane. This button cape jacket from topshop is made from simailr materials as the New Look product, however it features more structed than the fringed cape.
Again this wool effect cape will have been inspired by both the 1910s and the 70s era.
This Topshop cape has a different shape again to the other two pieces, it is more structured making it more of a coat style than a cape. However its wool blend is again reminiscent of the 70s and the grey helps it to fit in with AW16 trends.
Price: £19.99 Material: 50% Polyester, 29% Viscose, 21% Nylon. This grey cape from New Look features a fringe detail to fit in with current season trends.
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Task 6- catwalk trends SS18 ‘Youth Tonic’ 90s
Moschino SS15
Task 6- SS18 catwalk trends After using WGSN the trend forecasting website I found a variety of SS18 predicted trends, many of them were inspired by past decades in the 20th century. ‘Youth Tonic’ and ‘Pyschcotropical’ were two predicted trends that I found interesting due to the clear link between past decades. ‘Youth Tonic’ is a 90s inspired trend that has a strong focus on tracksuits with a variety of colours, prints and materials. After reading about this trend I researched a few catwalks from the past couple of years and discovered that the tracksuit has slowly been making a comeback, and to understand how it is developing into the predicted SS18 trend. For example Moschino's SS15 Catwalk features many tracksuits. The one displayed on my mood board is heavily embellished, however for the predicted ‘Youth Tonic’ trend this feature has been left behind and the tracksuit has stripped back to the original 90s trend. Both neutral and bold colours have been predicted for the two piece garment, much like the original tracksuits. With other 90s trends coming back into fashion the past couple of seasons, its no shock to discover that the infamous tracksuit is also due to make a comeback. The colours scheme for ‘Youth Tonic’ is varied, both pastel and bold colours are predicted which are popular every Spring/Summer season. Furthermore, WSGN has predicted that bold patterns will also be featured on the tracksuits. I added a few pattern samples to help visual a ‘Youth Tonic’ collection. I added 4 words to the mood board to demonstrate the different types of tracksuits that were predicted. ‘Couture’ tracksuits are predicted to be neutral or metallic colours. ‘Relaxed’ tracksuits are oversized and made of a jersey material and have a slight pattern feature. ‘Retro’ tracksuits are strongly related to the original 90s design with its colours and prints. ‘Urban’ tracksuits are a mixture of overused and retro tracksuits with its prints and materials.
Task 6- catwalk trends SS18 ‘Psychotroipcal’ 70s tropic
AW16
Task 6- SS18 catwalk trends ‘Pyschcotropical’ is a predicted trend with a clear inspiration of 70s fashion. Its main focus is on denim, with flared jeans, jackets, dress and tops being the predicted garments of choice, however each garment features embellishments or embroidery to further strengthen its link to the 70s era. During the hippie movement, floral embroidery and embellishments were common on items of clothing. On my ‘Pyschcotropical’ mood board, there are some images of denim 70s garments that include a small amount of embroidery or embellishments. For the predicted SS18 trend this feature has been emphasised on denim and even fully covers some of the garments. Like the 90s trends, 70s trends have also been making a comeback the past couple of seasons, however with the ‘Pyschcotropical’ trend the embroidery and embellishment size has been increased, this could be due to the development of new technologies influencing fashion, as large scale embroidery and embellishments, are now easier than they were in the 1970s.Furthermore, similar to the tracksuit the heavily embroidered denim has been seen on the past couple of runways. The house of Alexandra McQueen, now run by Sarah Burton, created a few denim pieces with beautiful red embroidery and embellishments for the AW16 catwalk. Like ‘Youth Tonic’ the colour scheme is varied but remains bright and bold with pinks and greens standing out. Furthermore the patterns are striking with the use of different colour threads covering the denim. After reading about this trend I found many of the adjectives in the descriptions really helped to visual a ‘Pyschcotropical’ collection, so I decided to add natural, tropical and exotic to the mood board to help further emphasise the trend.
Task 6- catwalk vs high street Catwalks are fashion forward in comparison to the high street, hence why trend forecasting websites such as WGSN use catwalks to predict future trends. Both my mood boards for predicted SS18 trends ‘Youth Tonic’ and ‘Pyschcotropical’ feature catwalk images, some of which came from WGSN. For example the dark embroidery jacket on the ‘Pyschcotropical’ mood board is from the SS16 Gucci catwalk, and the sequin tracksuit on the ‘Youth tonic’ mood board is from the SS15 Moschino catwalk. Despite the fact that these garments were in past runways, they are not only demonstrating possible current trends, but also the development of new future trends. The Gucci denim jacket has a darker colour scheme in comparison to the predicted SS18 colour scheme, showing how over the next two years the original garment will develop to fit in with the future trend. High street fashion contrasts to the catwalk as they are focused primarily on the current season. The next two slides are High street fashion mood boards for the current AW16 season. They are centred around two key trends for the season, 90s grunge and animal prints inspired by the 60s era. Unlike the catwalk they wont predict future trends, instead high street stores use the designer catwalks to influence the garments they sell each season. The high street and the Catwalk contrast in a variety of ways. Catwalks are more flamboyant, they release their collections earlier, and have a smaller customer base compared to the high street, largely due to price and the earlier release. However it is from catwalks that high street and mass market retailers source their inspiration. The high street has a larger costumer base and focuses on the current season in order to appeal to their customers. As previously stated, the next two slides feature mood boards surrounding two different high street trends. Similar to the Catwalk trend mood board, both of these boards have strong inspirational links to previous 20th century decades. ‘Grunge Revival’ is 90s inspired and ‘Animalistic’ is 60s inspired.
Task 6- high street trends ‘Grunge Resurge’ idle
faded 90’s resurge
thoughtless
ipped
Task 6- high street trends ‘Animalistic’
Intimate indulgence
Victorian Alberta ferretti SS09
Alexandra Wang SS16
Valentino SS11
luxury
Task 7- Deconstructing Artefacts Victorian lampshade stands as a representation for the luxuriousness of the Victorian The Victorian Lampshade The wealth. At the beginning of the 19 century, chandeliers ands candelabras were primary th
choice for wealthy Victorians, however towards the end of Queen Victorians rein, lampshades became the popular choice. Luscious materials such as silk and lace replaced the colourful glass from earlier shade design. After researching this artefact, I discovered that many different colours, materials and embellishments were used to create these historical shades. I chose the lampshade featured on the left as I believes it is an accurate representation of the Victorian lampshade, with its pale silks, golden embroidery floral pattern and fringed trim.
This particular shade made me instantly think of the SS16 boudoir dressing trend, due to the fabrics and colours. From this I began to visualise a collection filled with camisole tops, slip dresses with lace trimmings, and embellishments. However before starting to build my concept board surrounding this idea, I began to deconstruct the shade first in order to gain more inspiration and ideas for my collection. I found the shape of the artefact to be interesting and The Victorian lampshade is one item which clearly displayed began researching the ‘lampshade dress’ designed by Paul Poiret. I discovered how, the Victorian's love for rich and luxurious fabrics, such as silk overtime, the length of the lampshade dress has shortened and now has even inspired designers such as Mary Katrantzou to create the lampshade skirt. I wanted to incorporate this and beaded lace. unique shape, designed in the 1910s, into the collection to demonstrate how artefacts have (Victorianlampshades.com, 2016) always influenced fashion and continue to do so.
Original
Mary Katrantzou SS11
The board features fabrics such as lace and silk as Victorian lampshades were often made of these fabrics. To keep the link of the artefact to the collection strong, I kept the colour scheme pale, which works well as my collection is spring/summer based. It also features garments from both the high street and designer catwalks to show how the lampshade has influenced both buyers and designers in the past. I decided to call my collection ‘Intimate Indulgence’ as the range features underwear like clothing and the Victorian lampshade was an object of wealth and therefor indulgence. To help people visualise my collection, I added a few CAD images so that viewers would get a taste of what ‘Intimate Indulgence’ would include. Overall I believe my concept board and collection links well to the original artefact as it includes many of the characteristics of the original lampshade I had chosen.
Task 8- cultures Inuit social organization was largely based on bilateral kinship relations. There was little formal tribal control, which led to blood feuds between clans. However, hunting or trading provided opportunities for cooperative endeavours, in which different kinship groups teamed up for mutual benefit. (Everyculture.com, 2016)
Behaviour/ way of life
The Inuit people have a simple way of life. They live and rely on the habitat around them. Men typically hunt and women do typical household jobs. However women have also been documented as hunters in the past in this tribe.
Although most people picture igloos as smallish snow domes, they come in a vast range of shapes and sizes . . . and also materials. (Listverse, 2013)
Every culture has its mythical monsters, even the ones that have plenty of very real monsters in their daily life. Qallupilluk (meaning “The Monster”) was the Inuit people’s bogeyman of choice. (Listverse, 2013)
Time period
Among the last Native groups to come into North America, the Inuit crossed the Bering land bridge sometime between 6000 B.C. and 2000 B.C. , according to various sources. (Everyculture.com, 2016)
Inuit tribe
facts The Eskimo kiss is actually called “kunik”, and it has little to do with kissing or rubbing noses together. It’s a type of intimate greeting, often practiced between couples or children and their parents. (Listverse, 2013)
Location
The Inuit Tribe originate from the arctic regions. These include: Greenland Canada Alaska
Location
clothing
Factors that influence the tribe weather
isolation
As the tribe heavily relies on its surroundings to live, the garments they wear are influenced by their surrounds to. For example they use animal skins
AW15 Ready-to-wear
Task 8- Inuit Tribe report Culture continually influences fashion trends, catwalks and high street collections. After researching the AW16 catwalks from various designers, I came across the Dsquared2 AW16 ready-towear collection and I could instantly see its cultural influence. With its excessive furs and bold tribal patterns, the inspiration was clear to see and the Eskimo culture influence was confirmed. After researching the culture, I gained more knowledge about the Inuit tribe such as their lifestyle, behaviour and the garments they wear. Due to their location, Inuit tribes wear a great amount of fur as it is easily accessible to them, particularly because they hunt animals for food, and provides protection from the colder climate in the Arctic regions, including some remote parts of Canada. Dsquared2 is a Canadian fashion house and with their AW16 collection it is evident that the twin brothers, Dean and Dan Caten have remained close to their home. In fact Tim Blanks stated in his review of the catwalk “Always ready, willing, and eager to reveal their Canadian roots in the most unlikely way, the twins went back to the Yukon with this collection” (Vogue.com, 2016). The collection influence was very obvious, however I want to discover how this particular culture influenced retail fashion and what's being sold to consumers on the high street.
Unlike the catwalk, the link between the culture and the fashion retail industry isn’t as strong, however the influences can still be seen. After researching current high street trends and garments, I found that Fur is a powerful statement this Autumn/Winter, much like the Dsquared2 collection. Fur has been added to everything from head to toe, much like the clothing worn by the Inuit people , and wool also makes a continual appearance throughout the garments. The mood board features coats and shoes that have had fur added for detailing and therefore shows the influence from the culture. The board features other garments that have a stronger link to the culture. The accessorize cape(featured top right), for example includes three major details that strength its link to the Inuit tribe. It is a wool blend cape with fur trimmings and includes a red tribal pattern, much like the original coats worn by the Inuit people.
Task 8- ‘Arctic and Chill’ RRP: £55
RRP: £76
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Task 8- cultures Driven by increasing demand from city-dwellers and actors as well as the imposition of new laws under the Shogunate, the evolution of Japan's fashion industry gathered pace. Sleeves became longer and obis wider, and by the mid-Edo period, kimono structure had reached its modern form. Yukata enjoyed a surge in popularity, led by the increased use of public bathhouses around this time. (Thejapaneseshop.co.uk, 2016)
The word kimono actually means “thing to wear” (Annekata.com, 2011)
facts
Behaviour/ way of life
(Google Books, 2016) (Edo Culture: Daily Life and Diversions in Urban Japan, 1600-1868 By Matsunosuke Nishiyama, Gerald Groemer)
origins
Japanese cultureThe kimono
New techniques/ materials The Edo PeriodMany customs and forms of etiquette that were to become the basis of a nationwide style of everyday life were born at this time.
Edo town
In the Edo period, art culture became a big part of life for the Japanese. This will have influenced the kimono
Factors Seasons e.g. the winter kimono was created using more layers to keep protected from the cold.
Wars e.g. Battle of Sekigahara
The kimono was Originally inspired by the Hanfu Chinese clothing in the 8th century. However it wasn’t until 1603, the Edo period, that the kimono really began to come into form. With the introduction of new dying and printing techniques, more and more Japanese people began wearing this colourful garments.
floral SS16
Task 8-Japanese kimono report The Japanese culture has a variety of aspects and features making it interesting and individual. One feature that I found particularly interesting while researching the culture was the Kimono, a traditional Japanese robe that is tided at the waist. I have noticed that for the past few Spring/Summer seasons, the kimono has come back into fashion world wide, with jackets and swimwear cover ups including details similar to the Japanese design. After looking at a few Spring/Summer catwalks, I noticed that Johnathan Saunders, a Scottish fashion designer, created an SS16 collection that had a clear influence of the Japanese culture. Caroline leaper, journalist at MarieClaire reviewed the catwalk and stated that “Kimono jackets, wrap dresses and obi belts defined an oriental silhouette.” (Leaper, 2015) (MarieClaire) The collection has a heavy focus on the kimono itself as well as bright colours, floral patterns and silk printing, a technique Saunders is well-known to use. As these features are also included on the traditional Japanese kimono, it is clear to see where Saunders sourced his inspiration. My mood board displays images from Saunders SS16 collection as well as high street products and the original Japanese kimono , in order to show the evolution of the traditional garments. Saunders’ collection retains a close link to the original robe, however he has altered the concept on a few of his pieces, so that they fit in with modern day trends. For example he has kept the original shape of the Edo period, however he has shortened the length of the robe so that the piece can be appreciated by a modern day audience. He has also preserved the traditional oriental patterns, which further reinforces the source of inspiration.
Not only has the Japanese culture influenced designers, but also high street and fast fashion retailers. As I mentioned previously, in the past few Spring/Summer seasons the kimono has been featured in most high street collections, and even a best selling garment for some stores. In fact, according to the telegraph “New Look is selling a kimono every five seconds, the equivalent of 1,440 a day” (Ruddick, 2014). Most high street and fast fashion retailers have taken the oringal garment, keep the long loose shape and altered other features. The green print kimono featured top right for example, retains this long and loose fitting as well as a floral, oriental pattern, however here, ASOS have disposed of the ‘obi belt’ so that this piece can be accommodated by other garments, such as a top, something you wouldn’t find with a traditional robe.
(Glamourmagazine.co.uk, 2014)
RRP:£42 RRP:£35
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RRP:£55
(Mtv.co.uk, 2016)
Kendall Jenner stars as the new face of Mango this month, and as usual looks gorgeous/like a full on supermodel/really, really ridiculously good-looking. The 20-year-old model of the moment fronts the brand’s latest ‘fast fashion’ campaign, meaning she’ll be one the models showcasing a trend each month for spring/summer. There’s just one problem. The trend Kendall’s representing? It’s called ‘Tribal Spirit’. According to WWD, it’s all about ‘ethnic-inspired’ prints inspired by the African Savannah, and Kendall – a white model – has been chosen as ‘a face that best defines’ the trend. Hmm. You can see why a lot of the people on the internet are not too impressed with the decision, questioning why the heck Mango chose Kendall in place of a woman of colour or, you know, someone who’s actually from Africa. The collection was a little problematic to begin with – featuring a ‘tribal’ dress but mixing in elements of fringing and texture. Hiring a model of colour would have been a positive step, giving more representation to the cultures that inspired the clothing – and more generally, giving a tiny bit more balance to the fashion industry’s current overwhelmingly white choice of models walking the runways and fronting ads. (Mtv.co.uk, 2016)
(Metro.co.uk, 2016)
Task 8-mangos ‘tribal spirit’ campaign Issues Location
The African Savanna has many issues caused by both nature and humans. Examples include: Hunting Wildfires Tree clearing Climate change
Savannah /Savanna
The Savanna is a tropical biome grassland in Africa that spreads across 27 countries. In fact, the Savanna takes up almost half the continent. (Blueplanetbiome s.org, 2016)
a large naturally occurring community of flora and fauna occupying a major habitat, e.g. forest or tundra. (Oxford Dictionaries, 2016)
Animals Weather May- November heavier rainfall, approximately 15”-25”
October-March less rainfall, less than 5”
45 species of mammals 500 species of birds, 55 species of acacia in the Serengeti Plains. There are animals such as lions, African wildcats, klipspringer, steenbok, Burchell's zebra, African Savanna monitor, and puff adders. They have the largest diversity of hoofed animals in the world including antelopes, wildebeest, buffalos, zebras, and rhinoceros. (Blueplanetbiomes.org, 2016)
Task 8- Mango’s ‘Tribal spirit’ campaign Mango’s SS16 campaign caused a vast amount of uproar this year due to their choice of model. Kendall Jenner, an American fashion model, employed by many brands over the past few years, was described by Mango as ‘a face that best defines’ the collection. ‘Tribal Spirit’ is the collection Mango put forward this Spring/Summer season, and instantly you can visualise the collection from the title. The garments are said to be inspired by the African Savana, a tropical biome grassland that cover almost half of the continent. Therefore the collection has many different African influences due to the great number of countries this grassland covers. You can see, from the campaign adds alone, the African influences with the natural colour pallets and animal prints. As stated previously, the reason so many people were disappointed and upset by Mangos campaign is due to their choice of model. Many people asked why and American white model was chosen rather than a ‘woman of colour’ and some even went as far to say the campaign was ‘racist’. It is obvious why mango chose Kendall Jenner to advertise their collection, not only is she one of the ‘it’ models of today, but by using a Kardashian family member, mango can appeal to a different audience and therefore increase sales.
Despite the fact that the African Savana influence is clear to see throughout the collection, the controversy has taken over the clothing and the campaign is now known for its, what some have suggested ‘cultural appropriation’ rather than the collection itself.
The Rihanna Effect: Fashion’s Most Exciting Muse, On Her Third Vogue Cover With her power pipes and full-on attitude, Rihanna has become fashion’s most exciting new muse. So how does it feel to have her dress you for a day? Plum Sykes finds out.
Mr. Ford declares from his London studio, “She can throw on combinations you can’t imagine other people could possibly wear, and look great. In the fashion world she has inspired a very, very loose mix of random items.” Peter Dundas, on a train ride between Pucci offices in Milan and Florence, calls her “a very talented dresser, in the way that Kate Moss is. She’s an amplified version of what a lot of girls want to look like, but she’s always a step ahead of the game.”
“I’d never want to dress anyone exactly like me. I just want you to be you with some Rihanna inspiration. Girl! You need to be sassified!!!” Rihanna is straight out of Pygmalion “Plum! You will never be stylish if you don’t take risks,” for the ‘Umbrella’ video I wore lots of leotards. I took it to the stage and then added it to the collection I did for River Island”—a British brand for which she designed four collections. “I like shirts that are really formfitting and that don’t come out of your pants.” (Plum Sykes, 2014)
Task 9 – social influences: Rihanna For over a decade , Rihanna has been a strong influence in the fashion industry, with her daring dresses, transparent tops and ‘sassified’ outfits. Not only has her unusually combined outfits influenced her fans, they have influenced fashion lovers world wide with many of the Rihanna ‘looks’ such as baggy jackets and puma creepers becoming more and more popular. In fact, in may of this year, the Fenty puma line sold out in 35 minutes, showing her powerful influence on the retail industry.
Not only has she designed the creepers for puma, in 2013, Rihanna designed a collection for popular British high street store River Island, which boosted the company's profits to £839 million. Ben Lewis, CEO of River Island, told the telegraph the collection was “edgy, flirtatious, fun” and “eclectic”. He stated his company “are not scared of breaking boundaries.” (Ruddick, 2014) All qualities that could be used to describe Rihanna herself. This collection was a direct impact on the fashion industry as she designed the garments herself, however Rihanna has influenced the retail industry in various ways.
As previously stated, her unusually combined outfits have influenced how people are styling their outfits today. Even retail stores are displaying their products to the ‘Rihanna’ looks. The image to the right is a Zara shop window display. You can see how they have styled a baggy jacket with the classic black courts to have a similar look to Rihanna.
Overall it is clear to see how Rihanna's has influenced the fashion retail industry, both intentionally through her collections, and unintentionally with her unimaginable combintions.
River island £14 Nike £40
SS18 predicted trends
Social influence ASOS £38
WGSN SS16
Task 9 – social influences: gender fluidity By creating a genderless range, these restraints dissolve allowing you to dress for what suits you, what you as the consumer feels is comfortable for you to wear ultimately creating a sense of being in fashion. (Stephanie Burns)
Even high street brands are adopting this new notion, allowing for a wider range of consumers from their clothing by creating genderless ranges in their stores. One of these stores in particular is Zara. Zara’s gender-neutral range came this year calling it ‘Ungendered’ and it was added to their pre-existing range TRF. ‘The 16 items range from T-shirts and sweatshirts to denim and Bermuda shorts — unisex basics in neutral colours, constructed from comfortable cottons and cotton blends. On the website, pieces from the inaugural collection are photographed on both a male and female model.’ (Binary, 2016)
Genderless fashion is something that has been developing since the mid 20th century, for example when women started wearing suits. Over the past few decades designers such as Vivienne Westwood, have focused in on gender fluidity and used this controversial social issue to influence their collection. Nowadays more and more designers and celebrities are showcasing these genderless fashion trends and garments, showing how the controversial social issue has made a big impact on the fashion retail industry.
Task 9- social influences: women's rights 1940
women entered the workforce to take over the jobs the men left behind. Because of this, women had to choose clothes practical for work. For the first time, it became acceptable for women to wear pants. Women also began to wear overalls for more heavy work. (Fashion.just-the-swing.com, 2016)
1960
In the 1960s, wearing a short skirt switched from being an individual fashion decision to a political act. As young women gained a heightened awareness of how society treated them differently than their male peers, they came together to fight for their right to wear as short a skirt as they damn well pleased, all while the general atmosphere around women's liberation began to shift. (Mic, 2016)
2015
His model army, including Edie Campbell, Gigi Hadid and Charlotte Free, carried signs emblazoned with the words: 'Tweed is better than tweet', 'Be your own stylist' and 'History is her story‌.'In keeping with the feminist theme, Karl sent a lone male model down the catwalk carrying a 'He For She' protest sign, perhaps a nod to Emma Watson's HeForShe UN campaign for gender equality? (Mail Online, 2014)
Task 9- social influences: women's rights The evolution of women's rights has continually influenced fashion for decades now. For example in the 40s, when women began to go to work, their clothing altered drastically and they became more practical. At this time is was acceptable for women to wear pants and overalls, which were typically male clothing. In the 1960s, women fought for equality and respect, protesting for issues such as abortion and the objectification of women. At the time fashion was influenced by many factors such as music and films, however the fight for women's rights has a big impact on the clothing women wore. A prime example of this is the miniskirt, the daring length of the skirt was seen as a 'political act' of gaining liberation.(Mia,2016) In the modern day, women have a lot more rights than they did 50 years ago, however feminist marches still happen today. In 2015, Karl Langerfield, head designer of Chanel, constructed a catwalk, reminiscent of a feminist march. He had well known models walking the catwalk in fabulous Chanel garments holding signs with bold statements. One that particularly stood out was the picket plastered with the words ‘He for She’ held by the only male model in the show. Many journalists have said that this could be support on Langerfields part for the current fight, led by Emma Watson to gain gender equality. These are just small occasions where the fight for women's rights have influenced fashion, however I believe these are prime examples and show clearly the influence on the garments women are wearing.
Task 10- fashion advertisements The models stance suggests he is the advertisements focus, whilst the link between the blue of the car and the shirt, suggest the clothing is the main focus point. The blue shirt again a grey dull background helps the garment to stand out and catch consumers attention. The advertisement contains the spray painted phrase ‘I hate ugly’ which is placed above the unfinished, dilapidated car, suggesting something that looks rundown, scrappy and incomplete, could never be pretty. Furthermore the use of the graffiti style writing helps to reinforce this idea as graffiti, has been seen by a fraction of society as an eyesore, suggesting that in fact graffiti is ugly, adding a hint of dramatic irony to the campaign. The male model standing in an unspoiled outfit therefore suggests he isn’t incomplete and rundown, but rather stylish. Audience: Young men highlighted by the model Garments: casual wear, shirts, jeans, trainers Colour scheme: blue/grey blue stands out Product: Shirt, links to the image of the car, highlighted by models position and stance
To an extent, I agree that the campaign is successful as the message projected is clear. However I feel that the company should have chosen a different outfit in order to further strength its argument. For example, instead of casual garments, the model could be wearing a pristine three piece suit in order to further stand out and portray their message that the garments they sell are faultless, complete and beautiful.
Task 10- fashion advertisements This Chanel campaign features not only a lovely eye-catching dress, but also an infamous quote said by the designer herself. The message ‘I don’t do fashion, I am fashion’ placed at the bottom of the image in a bold print, is clear and powerful, suggesting Channels clothing isn’t just another fashion, but rather the definition of fashion itself. Despite the fact the bold text stands out, the focus point is still clearly the dress as it is the most eye-catching feature on the advertisement, particularly due to the colours and prints which stand out against the dark and dull background. The use of this colour scheme is symbolic of the quote featured in the advertisement, as like the dress which stands out against the other fading objects, Chanel stands out as fashion; unlike other designers she doesn't ‘do’ fashion, she defines it and therefore doesn’t fade away. Showing how the relationship between the dress and the message of the campaign is strong and is projected well.
If I were to change anything about the campaign, I would make the Coco Chanel quote smaller in order to keep a strong emphasis on the product.
Audience: women, model is young but styling of garments has a wide target audience. Garments: smart/occasion wear Colour scheme: Autumn/ Winter palate set against dark background Product: Dress, emphasised by the bold coloured print set against faded background.
Task 10- fashion advertisements Audience: men, despite the fact the campaign has a retro image, the advertisement is aimed at a modern/ younger audience. Garments: sports wear Colour scheme: burnt orange, beige, autumn/winter Product: men's retro sportswear.
Although this advert looks retro and outdated, this campaign has an intended audience of a young modern man. This advertisement has a focus on the male models retro sportswear, which is clear due to his position at the front. It further emphasised by the female model who is looking at the man, highlighting that he is the focus point. It could be said that by adding a woman to the advertisement, the focus is not clear, however I believe that the position of the woman helps to make the focus clearer. The advert also features a caption placed in bold white letter which stand out again the beige/orange(autumn/winter) background. The slogan states 'win or loose you'll still be the best player', suggest that by wearing jockey clothing, you will be 'the best player', which has numerous connotations. It could suggest the best dressed, the most valuable, most stylish or even the most attractive which is further implied by the female model.
Overall I think this campaign is slightly outdated to appeal to a modern audience, however I do believe that it does capture the consumer with its brazen caption and imagery.
Task 10- fashion advertisements Audience: young possibly aged 1630 Garments: shoes Colour scheme: bright block colours, varied Products: men's trainers have a heavy focus with women's trainers placed behind.
This advertisement contains many clues to suggest it is aimed at a younger target audience. These clues include, the spray printed 'red tape', the two young models and the road sign saying 'chose ur playground', the 'ur' is text speak, something that a younger audience would use. I believe that the product being advertised is very clear to see as it is positioned at the front of the advert and it's neutral colour stands out against the block background colours.
However it is unclear whether the women's trainers are also the product being advertised. Even though they are not positioned at the front of the poster as the men's are, her trainers still feature in the advertisement. To avoid confusion to the consumer I would suggest making it more apparent if both products were being advertised. For example cover the women's trainer up if they are not the product or place the trainers further forward if they are part of the advertisement.
Task 10- fashion advertisements This advertisement portrays a message to men that it you wear Dolce and Gabana clothing, this is the image you will have and they have used clean cut, muscular male models to emphasise this idea. Unlike the other advertisements, this campaign only features the brands name on the advert, no other words are phrases are used, however despite this the message still remains clear in my opinion. The product being advertised is men's clothing, and by using only male models in the image helps to highlight this, unlike the jockey advert which could confused consumers.
Audience: young men Garments: jackets, pants Colour scheme: Metallica set against a cool blue background Products: men's couture
The metallic colours help again to further emphasis the product as they stand out against the cool blue background. The space suit like pieces help to tie in with the spaceship setting of the image and suggest these piece are from a couture collection. However the metallic suit jackets suggest a ready to wear collection due to the modern twist on the classic three piece suit, an example of Sophisticated heritage. Overall I believe the campaign is successful as the clothing remains the obvious key focus point.
Task 11- successful adds GIVENCHY SS16
Audience: women Garments: jeans Colour scheme: black/white I believe this advertisement campaign is successful as the image links well to the product, women's jeans.
Despite the fact that there is both a male and female model on the advert, the focus still remain on the female model, as she takes up most of the advert space. Because she is sitting on the male models shoulders, this suggest that she is the point of focus and the rest of his body has been cut out to further highlight the focus.
The product focus is also very obvious as the jeans are the only product to feature in the advertisement. The female model is only wearing jeans and no top, her chest is covered by a strap of denim, which again further highlights the product being advertised. Overall I believe this advertisement campaign is successful as the product remains clear throughout.
Task 11- successful adds I believe this campaign is successful as the product being advertised is instantly clear to consumer and the product also has a strong link to the way in which is it advertised.
Hugo boss Ss16 Audience: women Garments: dress Colour scheme: bold dress against green background, flower effect Products: women's ready to wear
As there is only one model on the entire campaign, it is clear to see the focus point of the advert, women's clothing. The bold red dress fits well with SS16 trends, and seems to be displaying Hugo boss' ready to wear collection. Furthermore the bold red dress stands out from the natural green and brown tone background, almost giving the effect of the model being a flower.
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Task 11- successful adds BURBERRY Ss16 Audience: women Garments: scarfs Colour scheme: brown(Burberry pattern) against white background Products: women's accessories
This advert could be argued as controversial, however I believe that the campaign is a success as the product being advertised is clear. It could be argued as do controversial due to the fact that the models are not wearing any tops, and therefore sexualizes women. However as previously stated, I believe the campaign is successful regardless of this as the key focus remains on the scarves the models are wearing.
I believe the black and white background colour scheme works well as the colours in the scarves then stand out from this background. However I do believe the advert is hard to identify with its season. The colour palette suggests winter, despite the fact that this advert was a SS16 campaign, however that could be why Burberry opted for the models to be topless, to empathise the Spring/Summer season.
Task 11- unsuccessful adds This AW15 advertisement by Bloomingdales caused uproar with consumers over social media due to its bold statement of spiking drinks and suggestion of rape. Bloomingdales then had to apologise via twitter showing that the advertisements was unsuccessful. As Bloomingdales is a department store, it does sell a variety of products, and that is why the advertisement features both a male and female model and products. However the captioning in the middle of the models takes all focus away from the products and gives a negative impression on the whole campaign. Bloomingdales AW15 Audience: Men and Women Garments: varied Colour scheme: warm winter tones Products: varied
Overall the campaign is unsuccessful largely due to the controversial captioning, but also due to the lack of focus on the products being advertised.
Task 11- unsuccessful adds The menswear brand Suit Supply is consistently in the news for their controversial and sexist advertisement campaign, and this add for AW10 is no different. Despite the fact that the suit/the product features in the advert, it is not the key focus point. The overly sexualised image of the male model lifting up the female models skirt is what catches consumers eyes instantly. This therefore distracts from the product and makes the campaign unsuccessful. Furthermore the use of the female model adds an element of confusion for consumers as it is unclear if women's garments are also being advertised.
Suit supply AW10 Audience: Men Garments: suits
Colour scheme: blue grey tones Products: men's suits
Similar to the Bloomingdales advertisement, the use of sexism in the advert distracts from the product being advertised and makes the campaign unsuccessful.
Task 11- unsuccessful adds
1980’s "Our global advertising campaign images feature many different musicians, artists and models wearing all of our product categories, including our underwear products, sharing how they feel about and live in their Calvin's.“ (Edwards et al., 2016)
2010
2016
1990’s
2016
2000
‌.Unfortunately for Calvin Klein, people are not happy with two of the ads the brand decided to put up, side-by-side, on a billboard in the middle of New York. I wonder why...
According to Heidi Zak, CEO of lingerie brand ThirdLove, the billboard "highlights a dated gender stereotype that men are the breadwinners while women are sex objects."
Is the message of Calvin Klein that women are only good for seduction? Are we stuck in the 1950s? Are these the values of the Calvin Klein brand?"
"Calvin Klein has a vast assortment of content for this campaign, so we find it appalling that the company chose to put these two images side by side in one of the most highly visible intersections in the country.
(Edwards et al., 2016)
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-3502932/Calvin-Klein-removes-controversial-billboard-saying-Fetty-Wap-making-money-scantily-clad-actress-seduces-furious-protesters-labeled-campaign-sexist.html
Task 11- unsuccessful adds Calvin Klein is constantly under fire in the media due to its overly sexualised and sexist advertisement campaigns. Over the past few years Calvin Klein have used a variety of models, musicians and celebrities to endorse their campaign, stating they ask each person how their Calvin's make them feel. In this advert the female model ‘seduces’ in her Calvin's while Fetty Wapp ‘makes money’ in his. This has been argued as sexist due to the fact the advertisement suggests women ‘are only good for seduction’ (Edwards et al., 2016) and men remain the bread winners.
Calvin Klein SS16
The fact that Calvin Klein has stated that each model expresses how they feel in their Calvin's, suggests that they are not responsible for the sexist tone in this campaign. However they placed the two images side by side on a billboard in a busy area of New York city, and therefore made the campaign more controversial. Furthermore, due to captioning on these photos, the product being advertised looses focus, and the fact that the underwear does not feature in the campaign adds to this loss of focus.
Audience: Men and women Garments: underwear Colour scheme: varied on each add Products: men‘s and women's underwear.
Overall I believe the campaign is unsuccessful due to it sexist remarks and the fact that the product being advertised does not actually appear in the advertisement.
Task 12- mini branding project
A W 1 6
Task 12- mini branding project brand history I have decided to focus on womenswear and I have chosen the high street store Topshop as the retailer to sell my collection. Topshop is a British fashion company which was founded in Sheffield in 1964. over the past 50 years, Topshop has grown and expanded worldwide and has almost 300 stores in the UK alone. The company began as a small concession in popular department store of the 60s, Peter Robinson and was originally named ‘peter Robison's Top Shop’. The concession was surrounded by infamous 60s designer names such as Mary Quant and, like quants collections, ‘Peter Robinsons Top Shop’ was primarily aimed at the younger generation. By the 1980s, ‘Peter Robinsons Top Shop’ has ceased to exist. In the 70s the concession was spilt into two, and the ‘Peter Robinson’ collection was eventually discontinued, while the ‘Top Shop’ collection gained success and eventually became ‘Topshop’.
Since the 1980s the company has undergone many exciting changes and developments. In 1994 the company opened the doors of its brand new flagship store on oxford street London. In 200 the Topshop Unique Collection launched, this collection was also became the first high street brand to ever feature as a catwalk show at London Fashion week. Collaborations with celebrities such as Kate Moss and Beyoncé have also been successful for the company. Other developments include the Arcadia Group ‘Fashion Footprint’ programme which aims to’ to produce fashionable products in an ethical way and demonstrate a responsible attitude towards people and the environment.’(topshop.com, 2016) Despite all these positive developments, the company has suffered with a few step backs over the years. Some of these include the lawsuit filed by Rihanna for printing her face on a t-shirt, and the more recent controversy over the use of the tall and skinny mannequins. Regardless of these issues, Topshop continues to grow with popularity and fame each and everyday.
Task 12- mini branding project market research: comparative shop
Dresses Product
information
Product
information
Topshop
Topshop
96% Polyester, 4% Elastane.
100% Polyester £32.00
£29.00
H&M
H&M
Polyester 97%; Elastane 3%
Lyocell 80%; Cotton 20%
£14.99
£19.99
River Island
River Island
10% Elastane, 90% Polyester
100% Polyester £32.00
£45.00
Tops
Task 12- mini branding project market research : comparative shop
Hoodies
Product
information
Product
information
Topshop
Topshop
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
93% Viscose, 7% Elastane
£28.00
£12.00
H&M
H&M
Viscose 55%; Polyester 45%
Cotton 50%; Viscose 45%; Elastane 5%
£12.99
£5.99
River Island
River Island
100% Polyester
14% Elastane, 86% Polyester
£45.00
£28.00
Leggings
Task 12- mini branding project market research : comparative shop
Trainers Product
information
Product
information
Topshop
Topshop
60% Leather, 40%
100% Polyurethane.
£26.00
£34.00
H&M
H&M
Upper: Polyester 100% Lining and sock: Polyester 100% Outer sole: Ethylene Vinyl Acetate 100%
Lining: Polyester 100% Coating: Polyurethane 100% Detail: Polyester 100% Shell: Polyester 100%
£29.99
£24.99
River Island
River Island
Upper Immy Suede, Sole Plastic
100% Polyurethane £26.00
£28.00
Bags
Task 12- mini branding project market research: comparative shop
Body Suit
Product
information
Product
information
Topshop
Topshop
100% Polyester
100% Acrylic
£19.00
£42.00
H&M
H&M
Cotton 96%; Elastane 4%
Cotton 40%; Polyamide 30%; Viscose 25%; Wool 5%
£12.99
£14.99
River Island
River Island
5% Elastane, 95% Viscose
100% Acrylic £40.00
£22.00
Jumpers
Task 12- mini branding project market research: comparative shop
Jeans
Product
information
Product
information
Topshop
Topshop
93% Cotton, 5% Elastomultiester, 2% Elastane.
84% Cotton, 9% Polyester, 7% Elastane.
£42.00
£8.00
H&M
H&M
Cotton 70%; Polyester 18%; Viscose 11%; Elastane 1%
Polyester 87%; Elastane 13% £7.99
£7.99
River Island
River Island
93% Cotton, 2% Elastane, 5% Polyester
10% Elastane, 90% Polyester £18.00
£42.00
Sport Tops
Task 12- mini branding project market research: comparative shop
Coats
Product
information
Product
information
Topshop
Topshop
94% Polyester, 5% Viscose, 1% Elastane
75% Cotton, 25% Polyester
£65.00
£28.00
H&M
H&M
Padding/lining: Polyester 100% Shell: Cotton 100% fur: Modacrylic 66%; Acrylic 34%
Cotton 77%; Polyester 23% £14.99
£49.99 River Island
River Island
100% Polyurethane
32% Polyester, 68% Viscose
£95.00
£22.00
Joggers
Task 12- mini branding project competitors
Topshop has many competitors on the high street due to the variety of products they sell, for example their Ivy Park sportswear range has specific competitors such as Victoria Secret PINK and Nike. I focused on two stores in particular, River Island and H&M so that I could compare general products rather than a specified category. Although all three stores have a variety of different products, they have similar target audiences which is why I chose the three to compare. From comparing numerous different garments from the three store I noticed a difference in price, fabric compositions and design. Difference in price: Through comparing a variety of different products, I found that H&M was the Cheaper high street retailer, however with certain products River Island and Topshop had similar price ranges. Generally Topshop has a higher price range, however few River Island pieces were more expensive.
Difference in Fabric Composition: Even though the prices vary, the fabric compositions from all three stores are very similar. Polyester and Cotton were two fabrics that stood out as recurring predominant fabrics, and Fabrics such as Viscose and elastane seemed secondary however still reoccurred throughout all three stores. Fabric composition is usually one of the principal reasons for price variations, however my comparative shops suggest other factors such as design have influenced price more greatly than fabric. Difference in designs: From comparing certain garments from all three stores, the differences and similarities in design became clear. The majority of H&M garments were simple and plain, whereas Topshop and River Island had more embellishments, patterns and features in comparison to H&M. This further support my earlier point that design has influenced the price rather than fabric compositions, as the minimal garments are cheaper and the intricate pieces are more expensive. For my collection I will use this comparative shop in order to try and find a niche in the market and to make sure my collection stands out against my competitors.
Task 12- mini branding project trend forecasting SS18
Slow futures “SLOW FUTURES IS ABOUT REMEMBERING THE PAST IN ORDER TO IMAGINE THE FUTURE.” (Wgsn.com, 2016)
Key features Concept of Space
Technology
Oversized Earth & Metallic colours Weather proof clothing Sheer clothing
Kinship “KINSHIP IS ABOUT CULTURES AND COLLECTIVES, BOTH REAL AND VIRTUAL, THAT FORGE AN INCREASED SENSE OF COMMUNITY.” (Wgsn.com, 2016) Key features
Psychotropical
Youth tonic
“PSYCHOTROPICAL EXPLORES AN IDEALISED NATURE OF THE FUTURE.” (Wgsn.com, 2016)
YOUTH TONIC ANALYSES THE YOUTH CULTURE INFLUENCING EVERY AREA OF THE MARKET WITH REBELLION AND INDIVIDUALITY.
Key features
Variety of cultural Super-natural, strong influences nature influence Art and design becoming ‘borderless’ (Wgsn.com, 2016)
genderless
Recycled fabrics Layering Oversized Geometric shapes stipe's
Sensory stimulation
Sportswear Denim Bright bold patterns Natural(plants, sea life, animals etc.)
Key features Urban
Virtual reality
Tracksuit Relaxed fit Pastels Retro patterns
Task 12- mini branding project trend forecasting SS18
Task 12- mini branding project concept based on research conducted
After completeing research, I have decided to create an active wear collection. Sportswear has been a key focus for high street retailers over the past few seasons, and it has grown in popularity with consumers, both as gym wear and casual clothing. After researching future trends, I discovered that this fashion trend will continue and further develop to fit in with key features of the season, which is why I chose this concept for my collection. When researching the trends I found Four predicted critical paths, each path featured a different set of trends, however some did interlink. ‘Slow Futures’ and ‘Kinship’ trends are due to touch down in early-mid spring, they both feature a duller colour palate with earthy tones such as browns and dark greens. ‘Psychotropical‘ and ‘Youth Tonic’ are due to come in later in the season (Summer- transitional) and therefore have a brighter colour palate and bold eye-catching patterns. The garment types for each trend are both varied and similar, but throughout all four trends, oversized clothing seemed to be a key pattern. Both ‘slow futures’ and ‘kinship’ have a heavy focus on layering and sheer clothing, whereas ‘Psychotropical‘ and ‘Youth Tonic’ have a focus on relaxed fittings and patterns. It is also predicted for ‘Psychotropical‘ and ‘Youth Tonic’ to have sportswear garments such as tracksuits, and I have therefore placed my collection in the high summer and transitional period of SS18.
Whilst completing my market research, I noticed that while Topshop already has active wear collections, such as Ivy Park, they are very basic and plain; whereas other stores such as river island and H&M opted for more colours and patterns. As brighter colours and bolder patterns are both predicted in the SS18 trend report, I believe my collection will serve well to Topshop as it will help them compete with other high-street retailers and keep current. Another thing I noticed was the lack of fitting sizes in active wear across the entire comparative shop. All three stores had active wear collections, however non of them had Petties or Tall fittings, they kept their garments to a regular fit. Despite the fact that current active wear is stretchy, it doesn’t always accommodate to consumers need, and therefore I have decided that my collection will have a strong size focus in order to fill this niche in the market and appeal to a wider target audience.
Task 12- mini branding project- Topshop current active wear
Task 12- mini branding project customer profile Name: Claudia Age: 22 Lives: London Occupation: personal trainer
Hobbies/interests: fashion, dancing, gym fanatic Size: averagely 6, petite leg fittings.
Task 12- mini branding project customer profile Name: Georgia Age: 20 Lives: Leeds
Occupation: currently obtaining her degree at Northern School of Contemporary Dance Hobbies/interests: socialising, dancing, jogging Size: averagely 8, tall fittings
Task 12- mini branding project customer profile Claudia is a 22 year old personal trainer from London, she is very passionate about her job and is one of the most sought out female trainers in the city. She has always had an enthusiasm for sports and dance and you very rarely see her in anything other than her gym clothes. In her downtime, after a busy day at work, Claudia enjoys relaxes at home, watching TV and films. With her days off, she likes to socialise with friends and family, taking her dog on walks through her local park, and enjoys trying out new restaurants around the city. Claudia usually shops in Nike for her gym clothes, and Topshop for her other garments. Despite the fact she generally wears gym clothes on a day to day basis, Claudia is very fashion conscious and likes keeping up with current trends. She recently fell in love with the Ted Baker ‘Fit to a T’ collection due to the colours and patterns that stood out compared to the usual gym wear she buys, however due to her petite fittings at 5ft 3inchs, the active wear looked too big on her legs and arms. This is something Claudia struggles with when buying her work uniform as she cannot find her perfect fit.
Georgia is a 20 year old dance student at the Northern School of Contemporary Dance in Leeds. She is currently in her second year at the university and loves the course she has chosen. After completing her degree, Georgia would like to move to New York and become dance teacher. For a variation, on her days off Georgia enjoys socialising with her Uni flat mates by going for cocktails and food. She also enjoys jogging through the parks around the city, baking and reading books at home in her boyfriends oversized clothing, because they are more comfortable than anything she owns. Georgia is also very interested in fashion and would to incorporate current trends into her dancewear wardrobe, however Georgia is slightly taller than her fellow students, and at 5 ft. 9inchs she struggles to find fashionable active wear that fits her. She usually then opts for plain and simple garments as they are the better fit for her.
Task 12- mini branding project Varied target audience- focused around a younger generation, both male(topman) and female.
Topshop petites
Retail store
Regular
fits
Competitors name
Main garments £25-£90
tall
Fit kit
Slogan
River island
Victoria secrete pink
Fashionable fitness for you
Adidas
brand
High street (specialised)
Zara
Active wear- Fit Kit
Price range
Nike
Superdry
Mission statement Accessories £10-£30
Footwear £50-£110
High street (varied)
“We aim to provide you with active wear that’s best reflects you. whatever you size!”
Comfort- opens target audience further
Brands target audience
Gym/ exercise/ sports enthusiasts
Young women aged 18-40
H&M
Task 11- mini branding project, fit kit information Logo
Fit Kit is a women's active wear brand that makes fitness fashionable. I would use this logo on price labels, the inside of garments and to advertise the brand. I wanted the logo to stand out so I chose a bold font as well as a metallic font, which will also fits in with the SS18 colour palate. To emphasise the brands purpose, when constructing this logo, I used a silhouette of a women boxing to make a K shape and I believe this works well in order to complete the logo I used a variety of techniques on Photoshop, such as the magic wand tool and select inverse.
Slogan
‘Fashionable fitness for you’
Fit Kit is a brand that stands out from other active wear labels due to our highly fashionable garments. We look at predicted trends, particularly features such as patterns and structure, and try to incorporate these features into our clothing. At Fit Kit, we believe that fashion matters, even in your gym clothes so ‘We aim to provide you with active wear that’s best reflects you…’.
Mission statement “We aim to provide you with active wear that’s best reflects you. whatever you size!”
Not only is Fit kit a brand that aspires to be the most fashionable active wear brand about, that best ‘reflects you’ and your style, but also one that fits you perfectly. At fit kit we understand that not everyone is a ‘regular’ fit; we are all different sizes!! So we produced our garments in petite, tall and regular, to help you find your perfect fit.
Task 12- mini branding project, fit kit information Business cards To create my business card I again used Photoshop and used a variety of tools in the programme. I included my logo, slogan and mission statement in order to best portray the brand. It also includes the business’ contact details which include our email address, our business address and phone number. Even though the brands first collection is due to be released in Spring/Summer 2018, I decided on a grey slate background so that the silver logo and font would stand out. I also added a silver ribbon running along the top and button to break the block colours up and to tie in with the font.
Size information petite
Regular
tall
5”3 and under
5”4-5”8
5”9 and above
6-16
6-16
6-16
As Fit kit has an aim to provide consumers with the best possible fit, I have chosen a wide range of sizes that will be stocked in the collection. Not only will garments come in petite, regular and tall, they will also range from a size 6-16, in order to provide consumers with their perfect fit.
Marketing strategies To market my Ft Kit collection, I will use a variety of strategies, these include advertisements and celebrity endorsements. I have chosen three celebrities to endorse the brand and feature in the advertisements, these are Ariana Grande, Nicole Scherzinger and Rosie Huntington Whitley. Each celebrity will be photographed taking part in a different sport to the other and the three images will then be placed next to each other. The photos would be filtered to black and white, however the garments will remain In colour, in order to really stand out on Billboards, posters, magazine adds and in store advertisements. I will also ensure all three celebrities are seen in public in Fit Kit collection pieces. The garments would be displayed in store on a variety of different sized mannequins, as the outdated tall and skinny, model like mannequins Topshop opt for, have been a topic of controversy In the past few years.
Task 12- mini branding project fit kit celebrity endorsement
Task 12- mini branding project fit kit advertisement
I have chosen Ariana Grande as my petite model. She is 5”1 and has been seen in the past with gym clothes that are too long for her arms and legs. She is 23 years old and has a generally younger fan base, so I believe she will appeal to the younger group of my target audience well, as well as petite fitting girls.
For the fit kit advert, I have chosen three celebrities who I believe will best define the brand. As Fit Kit has a strong focus on sizing, I have chosen one model for each of the different general sizes. Each model will be photographed doing a different excise, e.g. boxing, running, dancing in order to show a variety of products and to appeal to a wider audience.
I have chosen Rosie Huntington Whitely as my tall model. She is 5”9 and is 29 years old. She has a varied fan base due to here many campaigns as a model. I believe she is the perfect celebrity endorsement for Fit Kit as she is regularly photographed in gym clothes (usually ¾ pants), she is the correct height and she will bring in a older audience than Ariana.
I have chosen Nicole Scherzinger as my regular fit model, She is 5”5 and is 38 years old, and like Ariana is a singer. Like Rosie she is regularly photographed wearing gym clothes and therefore I believe she is the perfect celebrity to endorse fit kit. Furthermore she corners my regular fit market and the older target audience of the brand.
Task 12- mini branding project concept board
bold bright daring strong
metallic
pastel
floral
dance
mesh cotton elastane viscose
Cynthia Rowley
move
run
Task 12- mini branding project collection
Task 12- mini branding project collection evaluation Before completing my collection, I first constructed a concept board, featuring patterns, materials, colours palates, and words in order to keep a tight focus when completing my collection. I also used some catwalk images and previous active wear add campaigns to gain some inspiration for my collection. I constructed my collection using Cads from trend forecasting website WGSN. These cad images originally start as a plain graphic(see right), therefore I used Photoshop to edit these images so that they would reflect my collection well. I used a variety of tools on Photoshop such as place, the magic wand tool to select certain areas of the garments, and defined patterns, which were then used to add to the cad images. Other tools I used included, fill bucket tool, which I used after defining patterns to add the patterns and materials to the cads, I also used select inverse to delete certain areas of the image and rasterized the images to make them the correct size. By these tools I was able to add materials, patterns and colours to the cad images and I was able to complete my collection. Examples of how I transformed the cad images can be seen to the right. Overall I found building my collection enjoyable. Having only used Photoshop a few occasions before; I did find using the programme quite complicated to begin with, however I am now more confident on the programme having used more tools. I do believe my collection links well to my concept board, however in order to improve it I would add a few cad images in order to help visual my collection more, and strengthen the link to the collection.
Task 13- unit evaluation Overall in unit one, I have learnt a plethora of new information in regards to fashion history, trend forecasting and collection building. This unit consists of 12 tasks which include both research and creative elements and I have found both quite enjoyable. At the beginning of the unit, I researched fashion history and looked at each decade in depth to get an understanding of the development of fashion. I found researching each decade interesting as I learnt many facts about the clothing at the time, and I could see instantly how past fashions have influenced todays trends. Other research I conducted included comparative shops, which broaden my knowledge about pricing and fabric compositions. I also researched a variety of developments such as cultural developments and discovered how they influenced fashion, not only in their country of origin, but also worldwide. Following from cultures, I researched how social issues and icons within society, such as gender fluidity and Rhianna, have influenced fashion. I also researched past fashion advertisements and discussed their successful and unsuccessful qualities, which helped when discussing an advertisement for my brand ‘Fit Kit’ as I could learn from the mistakes and achievements. During my research element, I was introduced to trend forecasting website WGSN, which helped when looking at future trends and constructing concept boards. The final research I conducted was for my mini branding task and this section of research included many types I had previously conducted in the unit such as trend forecasting, brand history and comparative shops, and I believe that because I was familiar with the different types of research, the mini branding task felt easier as I had an understanding of the information I was looking for. I feel that throughout the unit my creativity has increased. When initially constructing creative products such as mood boards and concept boards, I originally felt these tasks were more difficult than the research tasks as I had too many ideas and the boards lost focus. However after presenting to the class, I felt the tasks became easier, as listening to their critiques and opinions I could see where I was loosing focus from my original ideas. I also found that the researched helped with this too, for example looking On WGSN at future trends, helped when constructing concept boards as their reports remained very focused. Other tasks I completed included task 7, which involved the deconstructing an artefact chosen by me. I chose the Victorian lamp and researched It in depth in order to understand its history and designs, to ensure my concept board kept a strong link to the original artefact. For example, a key piece of information I found about Victorian lamps is that they were made from luxurious materials, which I think incorporated into my board, using lace and silk fabric swatches as my main background.
Task 13- unit evaluation
As previously discussed, I researched fashion advertisements to see their successful and unsuccessful qualities. For example I found the AW10 Suit Supply advertisement which was deemed controversial, because of its sexual imagery of the male model holding the female models skirt up. Due to the bold image, the focus was lost, and therefore the product was unclear, and the entire campaign lost focus, making it unsuccessful. Whereas the Givenchy SS16 advertisement kept a tight focus on denim and therefore was more successful. I believe it is important to keep the relationship between the product and the concept board strong in order to ensure a successful campaign.
Overall I believe my most successful pieces of work in this unit are task four, my dress down diner collection, task seven the deconstruction of the Victorian lampshade and my mini branding task. I believe task four and seven are two of my best pieces as I believe the inspiration and concept is clear throughout. I also believe my mini branding task is one of my successful pieces of work as it was the final task I had completed, and I could use all the different techniques I had learnt when completing the other tasks in the unit. Despite the fact I believe my creativity has increased, I still believe I could improve and develop on this element, as I am stronger at research tasks. To improve on this I will continue to listen to critical feedback, and try a variety of ideas and paths. For example if I construct a mood board, I will try a few different ideas before choosing one, in order to produce a stronger and better piece. I will then listen to critical feedback which I believe will help me to improve. In conclusion, completing unit one has taught me a variety of new and useful skills and information, which I believe will be useful when completing future tasks. Despite the fact that I initially struggled to use new programmes such as Photoshop, I found the unit enjoyable as the research task were interesting, and the creative tasks challenged me to try new ideas.
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Bibliography (sophisticated heritage) http://logok.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/Hugo-Boss-logo.png https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/71/9e/b9/719eb9c065398661bcf2f04652effc14.jpg http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--W2ybo_EfhI/UrwUpLRcroI/AAAAAAAACWA/lxeHiLlokKU/s320/Hugo-Boss-Autumn-Winter-Coatcollection-2014-for-men-www.he99.blogspot+%25282%2529.jpg http://www.advertisingarchives.co.uk/preview/40968/1/Magazine-Advert/Hugo-Boss/1980s.jpg http://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2016/07/hugo-boss-rhythm-moves-aw16/ http://www.hombre10.com/wp-content/uploads/BOSS-Hugo-Boss-2016-Fall-Winter-Menswear-Rhythm-Moves-003.jpg http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4076/4808055562_600cdb7144_z.jpg http://www.mensstyle.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/7_BOSS_M_FW_2016_Film.jpg
Bibliography – (50’s)
http://msnbcmedia4.msn.com/j/MSNBC/Components/Slideshows/_production/ss-111116Marilyn-Monoe-Auction/Lot%20771%20PLAYBOY%20MAGAZINE%20FIRST%20ISSUE%20(2).ss_full.jpg http://www.usnews.com/dbimages/master/37803/FE_DA_130201rosaparks-arrested.jpg https://www.gilderlehrman.org/sites/default/files/imagecache/inline-2col-float/essayimages/ChuckBerry.jpg http://www.worldofkays.org/website/wp-content/uploads/BI-19581.jpg http://digitaleditions.dlook.com.au/wpcontent/uploads/2013/03/tumblr_mddhymXA9s1qh421ho1_500.jpg
Bibliography (Rock ‘n’ Roll) https://williamsushistory.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/rock_and_roll.gif?w=450&h=360 http://www.skwirk.com/p-c_s-14_u-189_t-506_c-1873/fashion-in-the-1950s/nsw/fashion-in-the1950s/australia-s-social-and-cultural-history-in-the-post-war-period/social-and-cultural-featuresof-the-1950s http://photos.elvispresleymusic.com.au/images/50s/elvis_red_shirt_408.jpg http://3.bp.blogspot.com/7X9pPusX_wY/T5DmH6It7tI/AAAAAAAAABA/mbnzohSlS7E/s1600/Elvis_Presley_Jailhouse_Rock2.jp g
Bibliography (playboy)
http://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fashion-clothing-industry/fashion-designers/gabriellecoco-chanel https://ladyjojosboutique.wordpress.com/2011/07/13/christian-diors-new-look-of-the-1940sand-1950s/ http://24b3f6.medialib.edu.glogster.com/RWzJ6uBXOVtTcH6yP3Va/media/3a/3ae1240c6c 4ac7a7635b1d5d5377a560ebe866fc/dungarees.jpg http://assets.nydailynews.com/polopoly_fs/1.1621235.1392921040!/img/httpImage/image.j pg_gen/derivatives/gallery_1200/marilyn-monroe-1950s.jpg
Bibliography (post war) http://www.retrowaste.com/1950s/fashion-in-the-1950s/ https://ladyjojosboutique.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/diorss11couture.jpg
Bibliography (catwalk trends youth tonic) http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/66997/page/9 http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/66997/page/3 http://images.vogue.it/gallery/19456/Big/a7d09f4b-8584-46f4-b469-0b67dd1fad48.jpg http://pinterest.com/pin/474637248199486038/ http://www.catwalkyourself.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Chloe-RS16-41241.jpg https://img0.etsystatic.com/031/0/6070603/il_fullxfull.606389332_t90u.jpg http://www.artmoth.com/images/content/backgrounds/13-1288635619-bg-retro-swirls.jpg https://decorativeartprints.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/couture-magazine-september-1960.jpg http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=The+Words+Relax+&view=detailv2&&id=4B7F6B1D992E 2E4966C25E4225AF971D64C6AE04&selectedIndex=17&ccid=rLfEofpG&simid=60802807589732704 3&thid=OIP.Macb7c4a1fa46c99bc76f1beacff5e787o0&ajaxhist=0 https://urbanartdistrict.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/uad-logo-white-lo.jpg
Bibliography (catwalk trends Pyschcotropical) http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/67888/page/3 https://exoticfashionmagazine.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/cropped-exotic-fashion_logo.png http://www.vogue.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/05/sam-haskins-emboridered-denim.jpg http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2415/2226763560_c5f432df33.jpg http://g03.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1CccFIpXXXXbKXpXXq6xXFXXXp/High-quality-2015-Runwayfashion-designer-style-denim-summer-dress-woman-sleeveless-dress-embroidered-perforateblue.jpg
Bibliography (high street trends grunge) http://www.newlook.com/shop/womens/tops/black-mesh-animal-print-textured-t-shirt_391385101?intcam=INT-2016-17-WK24-BLG-Bck-00611 http://www.newlook.com/shop/womens/hoodies-and-sweatshirts/black-cropped-hoodie_384697501?intcam=INT-2016-17-WK24-BLG-Bck-00612 https://www.missguidedus.com/shop-by-trend/90s/jersey-motif-front-roll-sleeve-dress-grey https://www.missguidedus.com/shop-by-trend/90s/mini-denim-ripped-skirt-black http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_9mbeNGtJZeQ/TKcAqBM_bsI/AAAAAAAAH8I/erqZ43DX1T0/s1600/3+ Kate-Moss+Paris-1993.jpg http://static3.refinery29.com/bin/entry/a2e/x/1014118/courtneylovebody.jpg http://www.asos.com/calvin-klein/calvin-klein-logo-cap-in-charcoalgrey/prod/pgeproduct.aspx?iid=6974177&clr=Charcoalgrey&cid=4174&pgesize=36&pge=0&tot alstyles=1063&gridsize=3&gridrow=12&gridcolumn=3 http://www.cheerycurtains.com/fqyc125e.html http://images.asos.com/inv/W/142/1355/797540/image3xl.jpg
Bibliography (high street trends animal print) https://uk.pinterest.com/alexcoakley3726/animal-print/ http://www.talkingtonelly.com/leopard-print-major-lead-fashion/ http://geb.ebay.in/g/ImportHubViewItem?itemid=252090783747 https://uk.pinterest.com/lisa5t2/animalprint/ http://www.snazzyspace.com/image-effects/animal-print-borders/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cheetah https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=animal+print+60s&biw=1920&bih=963&source=lnms&t bm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiAiofQt4zPAhVjCcAKHVxSBtoQ_AUIBigB#tbm=isch&q=60s+ch eetah+print&imgrc=nhZLuiU1x1w2xM%3A
Bibliography- artefact http://www.victorianlampshades.com/articles/Victorian-Lampshade-articles.html
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http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/dsquared
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