Trend Report AW 17

AW 17

Three’s A Trend

TREND AGENCY

WHO ARE WE? ‘Three’s a Trend’ is a trend prediction agency dedicated to up and coming trends in fashion, visual merchandising and retail. Our objective is to enable our clients to stay one step ahead of global trends, leading the way for our fashion conscious, forward thinking clients.

This trend report looks at three up and coming trends in the following categories; Print & Graphics, Menswear and Visual Merchandising/InStore retail.

CONTENTS 02

GALAXY FAR FAR AWAY

MI

VOTER’S VOICE

EA SW

01

R

MOODY BLOOM M EN

PR IN

T

&

G

RA PH

IC

S

03

04

RETRO REVIV

06

RE

05

COMFORT CACOON

V M

&

IN

ST

O

ILI-UTILITY

VE

09

07

SHAPES & SIZES

08

PERSONAL TOUCH

LEFT IN SUSPENSE

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PRINT&GRAPHICS

01

VOTER’S VOICE Bold statements, typography and personal opinions remain the focus.

Solidarity and empowerment are key to this trend, t-shirts become platforms for designers and consumers to voice their political views, anger and frustration fuelling this. The world is watching and what you wear is what you think. Handwritten lines add the personal touch, joining the conversation has never been so important.

VOTER’S VOICE EVIDENCE High end designers join the stance by protesting on their catwalks, Gucci’s hand written slogans scrawled across their iconic t-shirts, feeling current and relevant to the world today. While Versace subtlety incorporate words of empowerment such as LOVE and UNITY.

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INFLUENCE

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SOLIDARITY SCARLET YOUTH IS YELLOW GENERATION GREEN SKY’S THE LIMIT

Fig. 7 Many social factors Impact this runway trend, activism, feminism and Trump are at the forefront.

The shift in political power influences this stance, wearing your opinion provides a new form of activism and a political microphone.

BALLOT BLUES

COLOUR PALETTE INFLUENCE

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PRINT&GRAPHICS

02

MOODY BLOOM Fantasy florals radiating a moody mysterious atmosphere float into this season. Brocade blooms on luxurious fabrics reminiscent of upholstery provide rich textures. These post modern flowers romanticise the nod to a 90’s grudge aesthetic. Rich and royal are key words for his trend. Budding blossoms paired with clashing patterns and delicate fabrics provide the perfect entry to fall.

MOODY BLOOM EVIDENCE Erdem and Valentino provide romantic, floaty florals for the autumn season, while Coach and Denise Van Noten pair dark blooms with clashing patterns to mask summer florals.

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MOODS IN MAROON REMINISE ROMANCE MIDNIGHT MOOD

Fig. 14 Influences for this trend come from 1990’s grunge, moving away from florals in previous seasons that are bold and bright, ready for the onset of autumn.

FEELING BLUE

THORNS AT DAWN

COLOUR PALETTE INFLUENCE

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PRINT&GRAPHICS

03

GALAXY FAR FAR AWAY Extra-terrestrial graphics make way to ethereal starry prints layered upon silks and satins blending fantasy and sci-fi making it chic. Planets, stars and galaxies grace delicate apparel leaving nothing to the imagination when it comes to life on Mars. Graphic images suited to the tough girl aesthetic appear on t-shirts and dresses promoting geek-chic. Whether you’re alien to the space-age or a sci-fi fanatic you’ll find this trend out of this world.

GALAXY FAR FAR AWAY EVIDENCE Chanel’s elaborate runway set for fall 17 re-created its very own space station, astronaut and galaxy prints appeared on the models on floaty fabrics.

Christopher Kane has also shown hand drawn space inspired prints.

Fig. 18

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SATURN GLOW URANUS RAYS POCKETUNIVERSE

Fig. 21 Recently there has been a surge in sci-fi inspired graphics from the 1980’s, as seen in berlin trade shows bright and seek, another nod to nostalgic vintage pieces. The original prints on the catwalk are a high end interpretation of this space age revival.

A GIRL’S GALAXY

NEPTUNE BLUE

COLOUR PALETTE INFLUENCE

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MENSWEAR

04

RETRO REVIVE Reminiscent memories of retro brands and iconic sports pieces, revived to dominate recent and future seasons. Brave colour blocking, boxy oversized silhouettes and daring primary colours paired with old school tracksuits and sneakers brought to life on the catwalks and streets. This urban trend features authentic names such as Fila, Ellesse and Champion, vintage logos and branding are key. Featuring zip up polo’s, shell jackets and branded sportswear.

RETRO REVIVE EVIDENCE Evidenced in trade shows such as Seek in Berlin, which showcased brands like Fila.

Designers that have featured this trend on the catwalk include Gosha Rubchinskiy, Christopher Shannon, and Vetements. Gosha collaborated with Kappa, giving the retro sports brand a step in the right direction, while also making this Gosha’s most accessible collection. Vetements recently collaborated with sportswear brand Champion after previously remixing the brands logo in past collections.

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YOUNGSTER YELLOW LIQUID LOGO GREEN MEANS GO

Fig. 28 80’s and 90’s references are at the forefront; outdated pieces are reinvented to feel relevant again. This nostalgic influence comes from designers revisiting their youth by the clothing that defined it, while also appropriating the working class attire, making them more accessible, high-end fashion gives a nod lo-fi sportswear. Also influenced by football, basketball culture and varsity staples, tracksuits are no stranger to the catwalk, however the use of retro logos are a new variation of sportswear, prompted by the rise in active wear and street wear.

REVIVAL RED

BLACK IS BOLD

COLOUR PALETTE INFLUENCE

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MENSWEAR

05

MILI-UTILITY Military’s famous army green uniform is constantly an undercurrent in men’s fashion. Transitioning to sportswear this trend makes a new statement on this seasons runways and streets. Multifunctional, lightweight sportier uniforms given new innovations for the modern mans wardrobe. This armour is given an urban update featuring upsized silhouettes and calming neutrals, keeping it sophisticated and contemporary. Key pieces include outerwear with pockets, patches and playful approaches to versatile garments.

MILI-UTILITY EVIDENCE Witnessed in Berlin’s Seek tradeshow through urban brands like La Panoplie and ATF, the trend emulated lightweight materials and hybrid abilities. Designers that have shown this trend on the catwalk include Walter van Beirendonch, where pieces can be converted, zipped and velcroed, featuring panels and layering. Moschino AW 17 took a more literal approach to the ongoing military trend as a reaction to the current political situation. The collection featured oversized outerwear and pockets, with shades of deep navy to olive greens. The high streets take on this trend seems to be more lightweight and accessible making it a perfect transitional piece.

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GENERAL GREEN BULLET BLACK OFFICER OLIVE

Fig. 35 References from the ongoing military theme come from the current global situation, designers such as Jeremy Scott are angry at the political state of his country. Designers pay tributes to special forces and the iconic army uniform pieces.

GRENADE GREEN

GO GREEN

COLOUR PALETTE INFLUENCE

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MENSWEAR

06

COMFORT CACOON Comfort, cocooning and cosy are key words for this ongoing trend, these padded puffa’s offer a sense of security and insulation to the modern man. Oversized and elongated silhouettes provide the perfect staple for après-ski. This seasons focus is on the fabric, moving away from the traditional outerwear, metallic and luxury linings grace this iconic piece.

Versatile components such as detachable hoods give the coat transeasonal appeal.

COMFORT CACOON EVIDENCE Seen in Seek trade show the Brand Brixtol put a metallic twist on the classic piece showing the interest in fabric and super lightweight versions.

Seen on the runway, Raf Simons and Markus Lupfer show variations on fabric used, while Rick Owens plays with the proportions and silhouette.

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HOMELY HUES YOUTH IS YELLOW WARM CORNERS

Fig. 42 The puffa jacket is a nod to the 1990’s again, as seen from many trends in this season, mixing retro youth culture and sportswear the flash of metallic helps this trend develop from previous seasons.

In terms of the new elongated and oversized elements, this relates to the consumer cocooning themselves preparing for the worst.

COSY & COLLECTED

DUVET GREY

COLOUR PALETTE INFLUENCE

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VM & INSTORE

07

SHAPES & SIZES Bold geometric shapes give the illusion of weightlessness and movement in this trend. The brave colour blocking creates retro yet contemporary forms and compositions. From pastels to brights, window displays are layered with a range of colour and pattern to enable these abstract fixtures to draw even more attention from the passing shopper’s eyes.

The oversized shapes are paired with grids, while acting as a platform to shelve and show off product.

SHAPES & SIZES EVIDENCE Seen in the window display of Diesel’s stores, and MaxMara’s windows using the shapes as platforms for mannequins, also popular with stores Harrods and Jigsaw.

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INFLUENCE

Fig. 49 These geometric styles reference the 1960’s, with bold colour blocking and linear shapes. The use of these shapes create symmetry for the consumers using shapes they are used to, pairing them with modern patterns and colours keeps this trend contemporary and appealing.

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VM & INSTORE

08

LEFT IN SUSPENSE A perennial trend that keeps on giving, suspended items are eye-catching and a clever use of space for any visual merchandising. Floating up scaled objects on an impactful scale create movement. Oversized items seem to be this seasons take on the trend, also incorporating industrial elements. Not only seen in window displays, but in store also. Clothes and accessories are displayed from floating rails and pendulous shelves.

LEFT IN SUSPENSE EVIDENCE Seen inside Bikini Berlin’s concept stores, clothing rails are dangled displaying product, not only in retail but also seen in hospitality at Monkey bar.

Bicycles hung from the ceiling are an eye catching first impression for tourists. Retailers such as IKEA and Louis Vuitton feature oversized items dangling above.

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INFLUENCE

Fig. 56 The hanging of product and displays leaves more floor space for the consumer on shop floors.

Suspended rails allow the merchandise to be easily changeable, while also keeping the floor minimal and easy to walk through.

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VM & INSTORE

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PERSONAL TOUCH In store product personalisation has become hugely popular over the past years, from monograms to pictures, consumers are obsessed with personalising their buys adding that sentimental touch. Concept and pop-up stores make the most of this driving customers to gain that limited edition piece while offering add-on sale opportunities. Starting in the luxury sector this has trickled down into mass consumerism. Moving on from just add on initials this trends new focus is technology, allowing the buyer a closer relationship with the brand by taking part in the design process.

PERSONAL TOUCH EVIDENCE This trend was witnessed at an adidas pop-up shop in Berlin, allowing you to have your body scanned to create the perfect fitting custom sweater and personalise the knit of the item. Also seen at Macy’s department store where customers are encouraged to interact and personalise buys, from watches to denim.

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INFLUENCE

Fig. 63 Building a stronger and personal relationship has been an ever growing need since the rise in social media, where brands can now connect with anyone. Projecting this through in store concepts, personalisation is the way forward, creating sharable products. The rise of 3D printing and making it accessible to the average consumer has developed this trend through technology.

ILLUSTRATIONS

Fig. 1 Refinery29 (2017) Ashish AW 17. http://www.refinery29. uk/2017/02/141847/ashish-lfw-aw17 Fig. 2 NY Times (2017) Gucci AW 17. https://www.nytimes.com/2017/02/23/ fashion/milan-fashion-week-gucci-coco-capitan.html Fig. 3 US Magazine (2017). http://www.usmagazine.com/stylish/news/nyfw2017-7-ways-designers-got-political-on-the-runway-w467258 Fig. 4 NY Times (2017). Gucci AW 17 https://www.nytimes.com/2017/02/23/ fashion/milan-fashion-week-gucci-coco-capitan.html?_r=0 Fig. 5 Financial Times (2017). Gucci AW 17 https://www.ft.com/content/1ddcffba-fa9f-11e6-bd4e-68d53499ed71 Fig. 6 Harpers Bazaar (2017). Versace Fall 17http://www.harpersbazaar.com/ fashion/fashion-week/news/a20899/versace-fall-2017-show/ Fig. 7 The Guardian (2017). https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2017/ jan/19/anti-trump-activists-protest-grassroots-leaders Fig. 8 Elle (2017). London Fashion Week http://www.elle.my/tag/keyword/london-fashion-week Fig. 9 Modern Colorist (2015). Floral Dress http://www.moderncolorist.com/ wp-content/uploads/2015/05/Black-Floral-Dress-Upclose.jpg Fig. 10 Elle UK (2017). Coach AW 17 http://www.elleuk.com/fashion/articles/g31537/coach-autumn-winter-2017-collection-new-york-fashionweek/?slide=6 Fig. 11 Vogue (2017). Valentino Pre-fall 17http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2017/valentino/slideshow/collection#8 Fig. 12 Dazed Digital (2017). Coach AW 17 http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/23400/6/coach-aw17 Fig. 13 Vogue (2017). Dries Van Noten Fall 17http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/dries-van-noten/slideshow/collection#49 Fig. 14 Vogue (2017). Erdem Pre-fall http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/prefall-2017/erdem/slideshow/collection#7 Fig. 15 IFA. http://www.ifa.hawaii.edu/research/Galaxy_Clustering.shtml Fig. 16 Ethical Fashion Show (2017). Feldmamn Wolf.

Fig. 17 Ethical Fashion Show (2017). Feldmamn Wolf.

Fig. 18 Elle (2017). Chanel AW 17 http://www.elle.com/fashion/news/a43655/ chanel-fall-winter-2017-recap/ Fig. 19 Pursuitist (2017). Chanel AW 17 https://pursuitist.com/chanel-fall-winter201718-show-takes-off-to-space/

Fig.20 London Fashion Week (2017). Christopher Kane AW 17 http://www.londonfashionweek. co.uk/designers_profile.aspx?DesignerID=69 Fig. 21 Ethical Fashion Show (2017). Feldmamn Wolf.

Fig. 22 Fashion Beans (2015). Retro Brands http://www.fashionbeans.com/2015/8-classic-sportswear-brands-that-are-back-on-trend/ Fig. 23 Dazed Digital (2017). Gosha Kappa http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/32634/1/ dust-off-your-kappa-retro-sportswear-comeback-fila-umbro-gosha Fig. 24 Dazed Digital (2017). Gosha Kappa http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/32634/1/ dust-off-your-kappa-retro-sportswear-comeback-fila-umbro-gosha Fig. 25 Seek Trade Show (2017) Fila. Own Image.

Fig. 26 Dazed Digital (2017) Gosha Rubchinskiy http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/23065/2/gosha-rubchinskiy-ss17 Fig. 27 Dazed Digital (2017) Christopher Shannon AW 17 http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/ gallery/23191/4/christopher-shannon-aw17 Fig. 28 Esquire (2017) 90’s Comeback http://www.esquire.co.uk/style/fashion/news/a9812/kappa-returns-90s-comeback-retro-sportswear/ Fig. 29 Jungle Magazine (2017) Christopher Raeburn AW 17 https://jungle-magazine.co.uk/christopher-raeburn-london-fashion-week-mens-aw17/ Fig. 30 Jungle Magazine (2017) Christopher Raeburn AW 17 https://jungle-magazine.co.uk/christopher-raeburn-london-fashion-week-mens-aw17/ Fig. 31 Jungle Magazine (2017) Christopher Raeburn AW 17 https://jungle-magazine.co.uk/christopher-raeburn-london-fashion-week-mens-aw17/ Fig. 32 WGSN (2017) Seek Trade Show https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/70425/ page/1 Fig. 33 Dazed Digital (2017) Walter Van Beirendonck AW 17 http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/ gallery/23253/13/walter-van-beirendonck-aw17 Fig. 34 Dazed Digital (2017) Moschino AW 17 http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/23233/4/moschino-menswear-aw17 Fig. 35 The Issue (2017) Powerful Armies https://www.theissue.com/politics/top-5-of-the-worldsmost-powerful-armies Fig. 36 Me Appropriate Style https://meappropriatestyle.com/tag/sleeveless-coat/ Fig. 37 Vogue (2016) Raf Simons Fall 16http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-menswear/raf-simons/slideshow/collection Fig. 38 Markus Lupfer (2017) AW 17 https://markuslupfer.com/collections/men/aw-2017/menswear-aw17-look-17 Fig. 39 WGSN (2017) Seek Trade Show https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/70425/ page/1

ILLUSTRATIONS

Fig. 40 Hint Mag (2016) Raf Simons Fall 16 http://www.hintmag.com/post/raf-simons-fall-2016--january-20-2016-1827 Fig. 41 Vogue (2017) Markus Lupfer AW 17 http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/autumn-winter-2017-menswear/markus-lupfer/ Fig. 42 Vogue (2017) Rick Owens Fall 17 http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/ fall-2017-menswear/rick-owens Fig. 43 Cherry Plum. Geometric http://cherry-plum.com/13835/carton-fluos/papercraft/divers-papercraft/ Fig. 44 Ariel Pan Blog (2011) Anthropologie VM https://arielpan.wordpress. com/2011/06/25/anthropologie-window-display-part-three-special-materials/ Fig. 45 Textil Wirtschaft (2014) VM http://www.textilwirtschaft.de/business/ laeden/Die-Top-10-Accessoires-Fenster-92767 Fig. 46 Nottingham (2017) Diesel. Own Image.

Fig. 47 WGSN (2017) VM https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/68373/page/4 Fig. 48 WGSN (2017) VM https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/68373/page/4 Fig. 49 Nottingham (2017) Diesel. Own Image.

Fig. 50 Bikini Berlin (2017) Monkey Bar. Own Image.

Fig. 51 WGSN (2017) VM https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/71966/page/5 Fig. 52 WGSN (2017) VM https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/71966/page/5 Fig. 53 Bikini Berlin (2017) In-Store. Own Image.

Fig. 54 Bikini Berlin (2017) Monkey Bar. Own Image.

Fig. 55 WGSN (2017) IKEA https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/71966/page/5 Fig. 56 WGSN (2017) Louis Vuitton https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/71966/page/5 Fig. 57 WGSN (2017) Nike https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/65940/page/1 Fig. 58 WGSN (2017) In Store Perfume https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_ viewer/#/65940/page/1

Fig. 59 WGSN (2017) Converse https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/65940/page/1 Fig. 60 Bikini Berlin (2017) Adidas. Own Image Fig. 61 Bikini Berlin (2017) Adidas. Own Image Fig. 62 WGSN (2017) Macy’s https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/65940/page/8 Fig. 63 Bikini Berlin (2017) Adidas. Own Image

Three’s A Trend NATASHA GREENWOOD N0571916