National Geographic Traveller India March 2017

m a r c h 2 0 1 7 • ` 1 5 0 • VO L . 5

I S S U E 9 • N A T G E O T RA V E L L E R . I N

summer special

hello Sunshine

Get away with the family

London Child’s Play greece Unlikely Travel Companions cairo Arabian Nights and Days Mathura: The many hues of Holi • Alibaug: Life Slows Down

n a t i o n a l g e o g r a p h i c t r av e l l e r i n d i a

march 2017

Contents Vol 5 Issue 9

g e t away w i t h t h e fa m i l y

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Arabian Nights and Days Literature, legends, and a lightness of being in Cairo

By Diya Kohli

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Coming Full Circle in Landour There’s plenty of nothing to do for a mother and son holidaying in Landour

By Lalita Iyer

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summer special

All Quiet on the J o u r n Front eys Western

Over a century after the start of World War I, two history buffs find flags, fields, and French-Belgian beer in northeastern France Text by Ceil Miller Bouchet Photographs by Kris Davidson

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Child’s Play

Discovering London through the eyes of a young ‘un

By Chaitali Patel

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Unlikely Travel Companions

Finding friendship and common ground on a holiday in Greece Text by Nitin Chaudhary Photographs by Swapniel Salaria

Journeys

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Holi Hues

Joshua Dalsimer/Corbis/getty images

The many moods of Mathura and its surrounding villages during the festival of colours Photographs by Mayank Soni

64 Giza, Egypt

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national Geographic Traveller INDIA | march NOVEMBER 20172016

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18 Crew Cut

Caught between parents with opposing travel styles, a daughter discovers her point of equilibrium

MARCH 2017 • `150 • VOL. 5

SUMMER SPECIAL

hello Sunshine

GET AWAY WITH THE FAMILY

20 Book of Hours

An illustrated travelogue on the Grand Palace in Bangkok

n av i g at e

22 Heritage

Time travel in the restored village of Zaanse Schans

26 Detour

The Grand Canyon of West Bengal

30 Bookshelf

From Sri Lanka to Spain, tomes that bind us to the places we love

34 Superstructure

The tower with a twist in harbourside Malmö

36 Adventure

Kitesurfing adventures on Kenya’s Diani Beach

SMART TRAVELLER

I S S U E 9 • N AT G E O T R AV E L L E R . I N

LONDON CHILD’S PLAY GREECE UNLIKELY TRAVEL COMPANIONS CAIRO ARABIAN NIGHTS AND DAYS MATHURA: THE MANY HUES OF HOLI • ALIBAUG: LIFE SLOWS DOWN

On The Cover This photograph, of three children sitting in the back of a retro station wagon clicking away on their Diana cameras, captures our theme for this issue—summer getaways for the family.

Holidays come in all shapes and sizes, just like the families who take them. Whether it’s a large group on a short vacation or a couple on a long romantic break, a summer holiday is always a thing of joy.

56 Money Manager

In the lap of Emirati luxury, Ras Al Khaimah checks all the boxes

62 Checking In

Customised fragrances are among the list of sensational amenities at these hotels photo courtesy: Zaanse Schans - Holland/Copyright Kooijman (shoes), photo courtesy: Ras Al Khaimah Tourism Development Authority (horse), photo courtesy: Kipling camp (chairs), mage source/istock (cover)

voices

Short Breaks

From Mumbai

114 Art, yoga, and history lessons by the sea in Alibaug

Stay

118 Living like a royal at Jambughoda Palace 120 At Kipling Camp, birds and deer linger just

outside the window

40 The Connection

Three Wise Monkeys at a Japanese UNESCO site

44 National Park

Fancy takes flight in Arunchal Pradesh’s Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary

50 The Comeback

Newcastle, Australia’s harbour city is getting an artistic makeover

54 Go Now

Puducherry’s Tamil Quarter reverberates to the beat of drums

regulars 12 Editor’s Note 14 Notebook 122 Inspire 128 Travel Quiz

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march 2016 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA

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Editor’s Note |

n i lou f e r v en katra m a n

F

The profound way in which our ability to navigate a new city has changed is here to stay

or me, one of the big challenges when travelling to a new city has always been getting around. I recall a decade ago, I was spending a few days in Delhi for work and wanted to visit Dilli Haat because I’d heard so much about it.

After 20 minutes of negotiation with several blackand-yellow Ambassador taxis, my husband and I settled on the cheapest deal. One driver had finally agreed to deliver us there for `400. We guessed it was probably a little too much, but since we had no choice, we accepted and got in. Less than one minute later, the cab dropped us at our destination!

If only we’d known that we were actually within walking distance of Dilli Haat, we’d have saved our money, our time, and not gone through the annoyance and frustration we felt at being cheated.

Cut to all the travels I’ve made in the last one year. With the blessings of Google Maps and the universal Uber app on my phone, the way I navigate a city has changed, as has the way I experience it. In Cape Town last month, we took Ubers everywhere.

On New Year’s Eve, we made a mad dash from the Robben Island tour drop-off to our concert, reaching the venue with seconds to spare, thanks to technology. At every step of our vacation we knew where we were going, how much time we would take, and most importantly exactly how much we would pay before getting a cab. It was blissful, not to have an

argument about using a taxi meter, to not always be worried about being cheated or taken for a spin, to know that we were spending within our budget.

In Washington, D.C. last autumn, I managed to get far out into the suburbs, a place I’d never imagined venturing to in a regular taxi. I’d just have been too afraid that it would cost me an arm and a leg. I’d have been worried I’d be roaming the countryside for hours, unable to get to my unfamiliar destination.

And once there, how would I have returned? With this technology at my disposal, I navigated the trip hassle-free and was back for my meeting at the time I needed to be.

I know I’m sticking my neck out when I praise Uber for changing the way I travel. I know there are protests and truckloads of people around the world who criticize this ride-booking app company and its various policies. But the point I am making is that the technology is wonderful. Today it may be Uber and tomorrow some other app, but the concept, the convenience, the profound way in which our ability to navigate a new city has changed is here to stay. Additionally, my experience has been that the pleasure of using this app runs both ways. One friendly Cape Town driver we chatted with put it in perspective. He told us about life as a taxi driver before he became an Uber driver: “Even if I was doing my job with complete honesty, and taking people by the shortest possible route, they didn’t trust me. Every day I would have a dozen arguments, even fights. I was always seen as a cheat.” He hated the tension and stress of the job. He disliked the way he was perceived by customers. Today, he argued, his life has changed. Customers chat with him, treat him with respect, some even ask for travel tips and advice.

There are, of course, downsides and disadvantages to smartphones and navigation systems, and the ride-apps we have at our disposal. Yes, getting lost in a new place can often lead to interesting encounters with great locals. But I’ve been lost many times—in Delhi, Bengaluru, Bangkok, Warsaw, and Washington, D.C. Mostly I find, I’d rather spend my time getting to where I want to be in a stress-free GPS-enabled way, knowing and agreeing to pay a fair price for my journey. It’s not like I will become a bumbling helpless mess if my phone dies or I am without network. And if ever I crave human contact, I can always switch it off. Until then, it’s Google Maps and taxis via ride-apps for me.

our mission

Caption xxxxx xxxxx.

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National Geographic Traveller India is about immersive travel and authentic storytelling, inspiring readers to create their own journeys and return with amazing stories. Our distinctive yellow rectangle is a window into a world of unparalleled discovery.

national Geographic Traveller INDIA | march 2017

darren woodward/istock (illustration)

Navigation High

Voices |

CREW CU T

And That’s The Way We Travel PUllEd onE Way and ThEn ThE oThER, a daUghTER disCovERs a PoinT of EqUilibRiUm

Rumela Basu is a Features Writer at National Geographic Traveller India. She loves poetry and food, and travels not just to discover new destinations but also aspects of herself.

march 2016 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA

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imagE soURCE/imagE soURCE/gETTy imagEs

I

grew up living and travelling with parents who have decided that from then on I would pay more attention to the completely different travel styles. Ma loves being outdoors, planning, the place, and to the way I feel when I’m travelling. exploring markets and historical sites. Baba is happiest Before the next holiday, I scanned the guidebooks and lounging on a reclining chair on a veranda. For the longest magazines—Ma’s treasured stash—and added my inputs. time, I was the blissfully ignorant child only too happy to see a I wanted to stay at the hotel with the park, I declared. And also new place, bounce on a fluffy hotel bed, and do whatever it was go see the mountain village, maybe stop there for a while to that we were doing on a trip. look at the houses. My choices were taken into consideration What I also remember from those years is the planning of and we had a good time in Sikkim. While we were there, I these holidays when two contrasting travellers tried to put became more proactive. I spent time sipping tea and sitting together an itinerary that suited both and accommodated me, around reading a book on the lush lawns of the hotel with the child. This resulted in an interesting barter system. The Baba. I happily climbed the hill to see the monastery that Ma terms were negotiated something like this: wanted to visit. I said yes to almost every suggestion (or tried “Fine, we can stay for four days instead of three so that most to). I also realised that both Ma and Baba hoped I’d agree with of the afternoons are free, but we’re also going to that market at their individual choices, be their ally. She was delighted I the other end of town,” said Ma. opted to go see the village, he had a smug smile when I joined “Yes, we will go watch the sunset from this point and then have him in his “relax” time. Amid this oscillation, I steadily began dinner at the restaurant nearby, but I’m not going anywhere that to discover my kind of travel. With every holiday we took morning, and preferably through thereafter, I’d have things to add the day,” Baba would reply. or reject and I was slowly figuring “Both Ma and Baba hoped I’d For years, I watched this barout exactly what I liked. agree with their individual choices, tering, trying to understand the Years later, as I moved to clauses and the motivations of college and then to university in be their ally... Amid this oscillation, each of my parents. Then one day, a different country, I travelled I steadily began to discover my during one such barter session, by myself and with friends. Soon Ma turned to me and asked, “So, I began discovering my own kind of travel” what do you think?” travel style, a little bit of Ma and What did I think? What did I Pa, the best of both worlds. It want to do? Until that moment, was finally while planning an itithe teenager in me was pretty nerary for a trip with my mother happy just going along with that I realised I’d found my own whatever was planned. I had my happy medium. books and music for the time For me, the first and last two days we spent indoors and then I of any trip had to be Baba’s “relax” would happily soak in the sights days. That gave me time to settle when we went out. There wasn’t down, soak it in, and rejuvenate disdain but there wasn’t any active before returning. Everything in participation either. between, is busy—research, lookAnd now I was faced with the ing for spots that are off the dilemma of making a choice. Of tourist map, jumping to see any siding with one parent! What did newly discovered spot, touring I want? Was I more of a homebody the markets and trying to see as who wanted to snuggle with a much of the new place as possible. book and remain indoors, or was I know now that no matter who I the busybody who wanted to trot I tend to resemble in looks or in around town exploring? In answer behaviour, today, the traveller in to Ma’s question, I gave a nonme is a perfect amalgam of the two committal shrug, and I muttered people I holidayed with for the “anything,” and walked away. I first 20 years of my life.

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national Geographic Traveller INDIA | march 2017

It was a quiet holiday moment on Choeng Mon beach in Koh Samui when my family was doing all the typical tourist things we love so much about Thailand. My husband and I were getting foot reflexology massages.

My daughter was getting a hundred braids and beads set into her hair. A middle-aged Thai man walked up to us carrying a long bamboo pole fitted with all his crafts. This bird caught my eye, as did a lovely dragon, now hanging in our living room. This pretty bird is made of many little pieces which are either parts of a coconut tree or bits and bobs found lying on the beach. It’s delicately crafted, with the seashell on the back the exact weight needed to balance out the head and neck. In all the markets of Thailand we’d roamed I’d never seen anything quite so unique. The maker’s story was sad, a true reflection of our times. “No one wants to buy my birds and animals made of coconut, but the Chinese-made souvenirs in the shops sell like crazy,” he said, as he demonstrated how easily the creatures could be dismantled and carried home.

The bird now hangs from the ceiling in my office, always in my line of sight. —Editor-inChief, Niloufer Venkatraman

Hanuman-Zzvet/iStock (ravana), Yasser Alaa Mobarak (man), jeremiah rao (bird)

Notebook |

Family Matters

When We Were Young Photographs imprint on our minds memories of happy times. We scoured our family albums to find out what travelling across India was like before online bookings and Instagram filters became popular. Warm stories tumbled out: a packed Ambassador car trundling up the Nilgiris, children picking seashells at a beach in Puri, and dabbas filled with snacks for the road. Family travel comes in all shapes and sizes, and our mental storybooks just got fatter with these discoveries.

In May 1974, my grandparents, dad, and aunt packed some curd rice and pickle, and boarded a train from Bombay to embark on a month-long holiday in the Nilgiris. A bus and car ride later they reached Ooty, their first stop, where these pictures were taken. They visited the famous botanical gardens every other day for a week, packing a lunch and making a day of it. These photos give me a glimpse of a time when holidays were not a big production. Everything was easier. All you needed were tiffins filled with sambhar-rice, flasks filled with coffee, and enough film in the camera to create indelible photographic memories. —Online Features Writer, Kamakshi Ayyar

My mother’s memories of her trip to Puri, Odisha, in 1962 are filled with sunshine and seashells. She was 12 years old when her parents, siblings, my grandfather’s friend, his entire brood, and a cook landed at this seaside town for a month-long vacation. She still remembers clambering up temple ruins, collecting seashells, and slinking away from the parents to peek at the forbidden “adult” sculptures on the walls of Konark Temple. As my mum says, “When I turn the pages of this album, I am once again back with my family and friends on Puri beach, a sunburnt little girl with two pigtails, staring at a sunset and having the time of my life.” —Senior Associate Editor, Diya Kohli

This photo is one of several that record a trip my mum’s family took to her grandparents’ home in Delhi, in 1963. They lived only a short train ride away in Mathura. On arriving, they would first head to Karol Bagh to get their fill of favourite goodies like the kulfi at Roshan and Frontier’s pastries. The holiday was a series of small adventures for my mum: taking tongas and rickshaws to quintessential Delhi sights like Qutub Minar, Red Fort, Jama Masjid, and Connaught Place. I love the pleasant blurriness of these old photos; they make Delhi seem like an easier place to live in than the city I now know. —Deputy Editor, Neha Dara Read the full story at www.natgeotraveller.in march 2017 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA

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navigate 36

adventure Kitesurfing adventures on Kenya’s Diani Beach

44

national park Fancy takes flight in Arunchal Pradesh’s Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary

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go now Puducherry’s Tamil Quarter reverberates to the beat of drums

A good way to explore the Zaan River is by boat. In addition to ferries, visitors can hop on a former cattle boat called the Cow Boat which cruises along bucolic meadows, windmills, and homes.

The Way We Were ows of green wooden houses look like pretty trims along both banks of the Zaan River in the Dutch city of Zaandam.

Windmill blades rotate sleepily, and each gust of wind carries the rich aroma of cocoa from a factory across the water.

Cyclists whizz past, pedalling further into the endless peat meadow landscape.

I am lulled into feeling that I’m in the faraway countryside. Such is the effect of Zaanse Schans, a village preserved to depict life in 18th- and 19th-century Netherlands, just a 25-minute drive from buzzy Amsterdam.

Trade thrived in the Zaan district from the Dutch Golden Age in the 17th century. Zaanstreek (the region through which the Zaan flows) brimmed with over 600 industrial windmills that produced paint, oil, spices, paper,

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flour, and cocoa powder. Thanks to a massive restoration project, I’m standing amongst original mills and abodes of that time—some humble, others spiffier with white trimming along their roofs.

Since 1961, centuries-old derelict homes and windmills from around the district were moved to this open-air museum. A small community lives and works here, running shops, restaurants, warehouses, and museums, ensuring Zaanse Schans is no hollow relic of the past.

Walking around the village, I pop in and out of shops and museums to time travel. There’s the Albert Heijn Museum Shop, a 19th-century grocer’s store that grew to become a famous supermarket chain in the Netherlands. Old painted tins line its shelves, and grains, candy, and bread are displayed just as they were centuries ago. I follow a family past a

national Geographic Traveller INDIA | march 2017

bakery, into the cheese-making factory.

Children flit in and out of an old wooden house which is now a souvenir shop where their parents pick up miniature windmills. As I walk further, I begin to note signs of the past of these homes. An 18th-century riverside house in a garden was once a merchant’s teahouse, built so the owner could keep an eye on river traffic while sipping on a cuppa.

The houses weren’t always green. They became that way in the 19th century, during the reign of Queen Victoria who preferred this “quiet colour.”

At De Kat, a wood-panelled mill that began producing paint in 1646, I climb a steep staircase to the first floor where three immense wheels turn languorously.

The continuous vibration of the floor and walls makes me feel like I’m inside the belly of a gargantuan creature. The guide

photo courtesy: Zaanse Schans - Holland/Copyright Kooijman

R

time travel in the restored village of Zaanse Schans by Kareena Gianani

Sup e rStructu r e

Love it or hate it, it's virtually impossible to ignore the Turning Torso that dwarfs everything around it in the largely flat city of Malmo.

Tower with a Twist ExtrEmE EnginEEring in harboursidE malmö

By KaLpana Sunder

I

am strolling along the Western harbour waterfront of malmö, Sweden’s third largest city, my eyes scanning the skyline. around me, rocky beaches and open-air cafés occupy the space once taken up by manufacturing industry and a shipyard. the neighbourhood’s residential and other buildings are strikingly designed, with eco-friendly homes and businesses powered by renewable energy.

When i catch sight of the building i’m

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looking for, it comes as a surprise. a tall, white tower, its body corkscrewing into the blue sky, the turning torso reminds me of a dishcloth being wrung. in fact, Scandinavia’s tallest apartment building is meant to mimic a human body in motion. the wacky, 623-foot structure opened in 2005, after four years of construction. it houses luxury flats and offices across its 54 floors.

Santiago calatrava, a Spanish avantgarde architect is the man behind the

national GeoGraphic traveller inDia | march 2017

building. i’ve previously admired his innovative buildings in valencia, in particular, the futuristic city of arts and Sciences complex, and the harplike alameda Bridge. the turning torso was calatrava’s first residential project. a former managing director of hSB malmö, the company that commissioned the building, saw in a brochure a marble sculpture made by the architect which was inspired by the human body. he then met and asked calatrava to design a residential building in the Western harbour.

With no observation deck, the structure is best admired from afar. and that’s easy to do in this flat, low-rise city.

Walking closer to the vertiginous tower, i see windows that look like portholes, and an exoskeleton of steel tubes, which helps reduce vibrations caused by the wind. as i look up from ground level, the entire edifice gives the impression of being in motion. at the base of the tower, is an interesting art installation called “Ögat”, or “the eye”. a video plays in the middle of an eye-shaped sculpture, changing colour and blinking, much like a real eye does. From the building’s office, i pick up a brochure, which informs me that the concrete tower has about 2,800 panels of aluminium covering its facade, and 2,250 glass windows. the complex geometry at play in the design includes nine pentagonal segments, which twist 90 degrees around the core from bottom to top; each pentagon has five floors.

Besides the iconic design, the building is laudably eco-friendly. inside natural materials like stone and oak have been used. the 147 apartments are powered by renewable energy. organic waste from the building is transported though separate pipes for decomposition and biogas production. one question remains in my mind.

“Does the building really turn?” the answer is no. the turning torso is engineered, as tall buildings generally are, to sway at the top in a strong wind, but any contortion is just an illusion. the vitals tours to the building’s top two floors can be pre-booked through the year (+46-40174540 www.skyhighmeetings. com; SEK380/`2,925 per person for a group of 5-9 people).

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Günter Lenz/imaGeBrOKer/dinOdia phOtO LiBrary

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T he Co n n ect i o n

Three Wise Monkeys An Indian connection at a UNESCO site in Japan text & photographs By Trupti Devdas Nayak A splendid forest complements the beauty of the Toshogu shrine and its doublestoreyed Yomeimon gate. The three monkeys (bottom) carved on the door of Toshogu’s stable are believed to be guardians of the resident sacred horses.

O

n a recent autumn trip to Tokyo, I jumped at the opportunity to escape the sometimes overwhelming energy of the city to take in the charming serenity of nearby Nikko. An important centre for Shinto and Buddhist worship, Nikko is famous for the opulent Toshogu Shinto shrine and Rinno-ji Buddhist temple at Nikko National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The complex has about a hundred buildings, with the man-made architecture blending seamlessly with the natural landscape of forested mountain slopes, rivers, lakes, and waterfalls. I especially wanted to see the intricate Yomeimon, Japan’s most famous gate. A National Treasure, it is also called the Twilight Gate (higurashi-no-mon), because it is said that one can gaze at it mesmerised all day and night and never tire.

On arriving in Nikko, I entered a

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different world, a landscape of brilliant red maples and golden yellow gingko trees. The Shinto shrines were captivatingly different from anything I had seen before. The Twilight Gate is part of the Toshogu shrine, which was built in 1617 to honour the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate, Tokugawa Ieyasu.

The path to the shrine is marked by a tall torii, or sacred bird gate. Past this, is the five-storey gojunoto pagoda, where

national Geographic Traveller INDIA | march 2017

red tiers towered over me. Next, is the karamon gate, painted all over with white chalk powder.

Finally, I stood in front of the Twilight Gate. It was an arresting sight. Over 500 carvings showed traditional scenes and stories with imaginary animals, emperors, and wise men. Carved in deeprelief, white dragons caught my eye as they seemed to come alive, lashing their tails high above the heads of awestruck visitors. I watched hypnotized as the beasts writhed and roared, their mouths wide open, spewing flames above me.

I must have indeed lost track of time, because it was much later that I realized that there was more to see.

Unfortunately the main building of Nikko’s other famous sacred building, the Rinno-ji Buddhist temple, was under renovation and completely covered.

Disappointed, I wandered back towards Toshogu to see if there was anything

A visitor seeks blessings in front of an enormous bronze incense burner (left) at Nikko's Rinno-ji temple; A ginkgo tree (right) in fall colours adds to the serenity of the Toshogu shrine.

I had missed. A lot of people were standing in front of a somewhat drab chocolate-brown structure. Wondering what made this building special, I looked up at the carvings of lots of monkeys.

The building was once a stable for the shrine’s sacred horses. Monkeys are considered the guardians of horses, which is why they were carved alongside panels all around the building.

Scanning the panels, my gaze suddenly met the gibbous eyes of three monkeys in different poses. One clung to its ears, sealing them, the second covered its mouth, and the third had its hands over its eyes. I realised I was looking at Mahatma Gandhi’s Three Wise Monkeys. He was known to treasure a small sculpture of these three monkeys—a gift brought by visitors from China—amongst all of his meagre possessions. Growing up in India, these amiable monkeys had appeared to my childish eyes to be the ultimate embodiment of virtue with their trademark gestures. But I had never given much thought to their origin.

A quick Google search revealed that in Japan the monkeys are known as

Mizaru, Kikazaru, and Iwazaru, and embody the principle, “see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil.” And that this carving at Toshogu is said to be the oldest known representation of these figures, dating back to circa 1636. A 17th-century sculptor, Hidari Jingoro, is attributed with carving the three monkeys at the Shinkyusha stable, along with several other exquisite panels covered with vibrant flowers and birds in bold colours.

The idea of the monkeys and their message is believed to have come from the Confucian Code of Conduct. This simple moral message resonates across cultures and countries, and has now become an integral part of children’s education all over Asia. Marvelling at the serendipity of my discovery, I remembered that the Japanese Shinto religion is all about seeking and finding connections between past and present.

I had simply stumbled onto one such link, which transported me back to my childhood. The three monkeys of Toshogu gazed back at me mutely, as I entreated them to help me remember their advice far into the future.

the vitals Orientation Nikko is located in northern Japan’s Tochigi Prefecture, 150 km/2 hr north of Tokyo. Toshogu shrine and Rinno-ji temple are open 8 a.m.-5 p.m. (Apr-Oct) and 8 a.m.4 p.m. (Nov-Mar). Toshogu shrine entry ¥1,300/`855; Rinno-ji Temple entry ¥400/`263. During autumn, the countryside is awash in beautiful fall colours.

Getting There To travel from Tokyo to Nikko, visitors can board a Shinkansen on the Japan Railways Nikko line, with one transfer at Utsunomiya. Other options include the limited express Nikko from Shinjuku or the Tobu Railway Limited Express Kegon from Asakusa (duration 2 hr; frequency hourly; tickets ¥1,250-2,700/`8001,750 one-way).

Guided Tours Tours pick up and drop visitors from their hotel in Tokyo, and allow several hours to explore Toshogu shrine and Rinno-ji temple.

They usually include other stops like Kegon Falls, Japan’s third-highest waterfall, and Lake Chuzenji, as well as a Japanese lunch (¥15,000/`9,875 per person).

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Go N ow

Drum Roll

An atmosphere of revelry prevails as the devout flock the streets of Puducherry’s Tamil Quarter to see the procession of Lord Perumal during the annual celebration of Masi Magam.

L

ost in Puducherry’s peaceful French Quarter, I was distracted by some commotion a few streets away. I followed the strains of religious music, coming from a fete-like atmosphere in a narrow lane. It was colourful mayhem, quite unlike the quiet charm of the pastel-coloured colonial homes and chic cafés and stores I had just left.

Until the hullabaloo drew me in, Puducherry’s Tamil Quarter was not on my sightseeing agenda. But once I

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found myself amidst crowds celebrating Masi Magam, an annual Tamil festival, I couldn’t tear myself away.

The festival, which falls on a full moon day in the Tamil month of Masi (usually in February-March) is seen as an opportunity for spiritual cleansing.

At the centre of the celebration in the Tamil Quarter’s Vaithikuppam area was the Ranganatha Perumal Temple; the air around it filled with the fragrance of flowers and incense. Mingling with this was the smell of freshly-fried medu vada

national Geographic Traveller INDIA | march 2017

and aloo bonda, coming from makeshift food stalls with cauliflowers and chillies hanging from them. Enterprising local ladies with gajras in their hair set these up outside their homes. I learnt that processions carrying idols of Lord Perumal usually end at the sea, where the idols are bathed. The devotees too take a dip to cleanse their sins.

I watched middle-aged men enjoying rides with their kids on a kitschy, peeling carousel. Teenagers lined up to buy posters of South Indian actors while older people bought posters of gods and stencils to make rangolis. Nearby, a sign painter wrote inflammatory political slogans in Tamil and English.

I bought a papier mâché mask, and ate my fill of vadas of all sorts.

As the sound of religious music grew louder, I extracted myself from the stalls and made my way to a throng of devotees gathered around a chariot that carried the idol of Perumal. An unsmiling elderly priest stood atop the chariot, wearing a neatly tied lungi, a tilak on his forehead. He distributed boiled chickpeas as prasadam to those gathered around. Meanwhile, his assistants broke open coconuts offered by the crowd on the street, blessed them, and passed them back down.

The musicians accompanying the procession were dressed in white shirts and lungis. Some played thavil, drums that hung from their shoulders. Their fingers were covered with thimble-like caps made of flour. Others played the nadaswaram, a pipe which flares up at the bottom like a bell. Both instruments are commonly used to mark celebrations in temples or weddings.

I accompanied the procession through the streets. People emerged from their homes, joining in for a short while.

Little girls wearing the traditional pattu pavadai peeped from their balconies.

Later, making my way back to the French Quarter, I thought about how the two parts of Puducherry though so different, coexist and blend into each other effortlessly.

This year Masi Magam falls on 10-11 March.

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Explore PUDUcherry’s Tamil Quarter to the beat of drums By Abhinav Singh

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uttarakhand For a mother and son holidaying in Landour, there’s plenty of nothing to do

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greece Finding friendship and common ground on the Greek islands

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egypt Literature, legends, and a lightness of being in Cairo

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This stela at the Egyptian Museum depicts King Akhenaten, his wife Nefertiti, and their two daughters offering prayers to Aten; The Great Pyramids, located about 25 kilometres from downtown Cairo, are fringed by the Libyan desert on one side and the bustling township of Giza on the other (facing page).

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Arabian Nights and Days

Literature, legends, and a lightness of being in Cairo

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Prayer flags fluttering in the breeze crown a hillside home in Landour; During their family holiday, the writer and her son (facing page) spent long hours at Char Dukan’s little cafés.

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BB8, the adorable droid from Star Wars: The Force Awakens, is a popular attraction at Madame Tussauds in London.

Children enjoy checking out the wax museum’s replicas of everyone from movie stars to sports personalities.

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Journeys |

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True to its name, Rangili Gali in Barsana village is draped in colour during the celebrations of Lathmar Holi. Men from the village of Nandgaon, where Krishna grew up, come to Barsana, where Radha hailed from, to recreate their playful interactions.

Meanwhile, elders from Nandgaon gather near the entrance to Rangili Gali to sing love ballads about Radha and Krishna.

During Holi every year, the city of Mathura and its surrounding villages transform into a technicolour spectacle. Their faces smeared with colour and lit with laughter, people head to temples and alleyways for celebrations that last an entire week. Each day has distinctive rituals, ranging from the playful anger of Lathmar Holi to the sweet delights of Laddoo Holi. Women in ghoonghats, boisterous men, and cameratoting tourists: everyone is welcome at this carnival of fun and faith.

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Short Breaks |

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Garden State Living like a royal at Jambughoda Palace

By Ambika Vishwanath | photographs By Hoshner Reporter

Most of the food served at Jambughoda Palace comes from the estate’s sprawling plantation. There is a lawn in front of each room.

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’m sitting on a swing, sipping tea with my host Vikramsinh, maharana of the former princely state of Jambughoda. We’ve been walking around his gardens, and have settled near a large organic vegetable patch. A Great Dane and a Doberman lie at our feet, while several pups scamper around. Vikramsinh, whose estate is almost self-sufficient in terms of food, is full of excitement about his range of edible plants. Grown without any pesticides, there are cauliflowers bigger than my head, juicy tomatoes, and more.

Jambughoda is a lush estate, a two-hour drive from Vadodara.

On one end of the property is the 200-year-old palace, where Vikramsinh’s family lives. One wing has been converted to accommodate guests; the former royal kitchens, stables, and staff quarters have also been refurbished as suites and rooms. The decor is old-world, with the Jambughoda crest emblazoned above each door.

Each room has a veranda and a lawn, which are lovely places to read or drink a favourite beverage

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while looking out over the estate’s canopy of jamun, mahua, arjuna, mango, and other trees.

Just outside the grounds, the family has fields growing wheat, pulses, mustard, maize, and corn. I walk around these one morning, watching farmhands at work. Men scurry up trees to pluck fruit, and adventurous visitors can try climbing up the trees with the aid of a harness.

I decline the offer, heading instead to a circular stepwell at the far edge of the property. Although it is no longer in use, there are plans to restore the structure.

After this walk, I head to the house for an early lunch. Meals are typically served in the palace’s main dining room, a large airy space surrounded by trees and floral curtains.

Guests can also request a special meal with the royal family in their personal dining room; that’s what I have opted for. The food is served, course by course, on family crockery and silverware embossed with the Jambughoda crest.

The food is a blend of local tribal flavours, with

heritage

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■ gujarat influences from Gujarat and the family’s ancestral home in Dhar, Madhya Pradesh. The cook Vitthal, whose grandmother helmed the kitchen before him, whipped up a feast from family recipes and local delicacies. This included urad dal dhebras, potatoes cooked with sesame seeds, corn and bajra rotis, and pulao with fried onions. The delicious signature dish, the kalia rezala, consists of lightly spiced, succulent pieces of mutton. For guests who want more, there’s a Durbari thali, with 23 different dishes served on a festive silver thal.

While we eat, Vikramsinh regales us with tales from his childhood at The Doon School. A warm and gregarious person, his commitment to Jambughoda and its guests is evident. He tells us about his illustrious ancestors, whose photographs line the ground floor of the house. This part of the palace is open to guests who wish to learn about the former princely state and its rather colourful rulers.

Visitors can also make a day trip to Jambughoda Wildlife Sanctuary, a 20-minute drive from the palace. The area was declared a sanctuary in 1990. Vikramsinh is now on a mission to ensure that the two-lane highway here is not converted into four lanes, as this would displace several villages and the many leopards, panthers, fourhorned antelope, and over a hundred species of birds that reside in this area.

The palace staff can organize treks for guests, complete with a guide and packed snacks. The forest is perfect for hikes as well slow sunset strolls around the Kada Dam reservoir. At the Rathwa tribal villages nearby, visitors can learn about the 11th-century Pithora art that adorns the homes.

Also close by are the ruins of the eighth-century Champaner-Pavagadh Archaeological Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with an interesting mix of Islamic and Hindu architecture.

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Jambughoda Palace

the vitals Accommodation Jambughoda Palace has 20 rooms. The Piloo Mody suite with its vintage four poster beds is great for groups.

There is a lawn outside each room and guests may bring pets on providing prior notice.

Meals cost extra, but guests can opt for packages that include meals and sightseeing (www.jambughoda. com; room doubles from `2,500; Piloo Mody suite, two bedrooms, `4,800 per room per night each; Durbari thali `2,000, special meal `850).

Getting There Jambughoda Palace is about 80 km/1.5 hr east of Vadodara. The hotel can arrange a pick-up from Vadodara railway station or airport (`2,000 one way). Visit between Oct-Mar when the weather is pleasant.

The area is particularly lively around Holi, when there is a ten-day mela.

Or visit during mango season (mid May-mid Jun) to feast on the 12 varieties grown on the property.

1 Pithora is a ritualistic art form inspired by natural motifs and practised by religious painters. 2 With swings and reading nooks, it’s easy to forget the hard pace of city life at Jambughoda Palace.

3 Tappers glide up the trees in search of palm nectar. 4 Intricate lattice work and carvings blend to create Champaner’s Indo-Saracenic architectural style.

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