National Geographic Traveller India June 2015 by National Geographic Traveller India

J U N E 2 0 1 5 • ` 1 5 0 • VO L . 3

ISSUE 12

PE HIK RU’S DEAE OF TH

SEVILLE SIZZLES

POETRY AND BULLFIGHTING IN SUNNY ANDALUSIA

KRAKOW CALLING

ALL YOU NEED TO PLAN A POLISH HOLIDAY

NIGHT TRAVEL AMRITSAR BREAKING DAWN + IN THE FOREST AFTER DARK + BRITAIN GOTHS, HIPPIES, DRUIDS

June 2015

JUNE 2015 • `150 • VOL. 3

Issue

SEVILLE SIZZLES

POETRY AND BULLFIGHTING IN SUNNY ANDALUSIA

KRAKOW CALLING

NIGHT TRAVEL AMRITSAR BREAKING DAWN + IN THE FOREST AFTER DARK + BRITAIN GOTHS, HIPPIES, DRUIDS

After Hours

Amritsar Reverie

Tripping the Night Fantastic

Some places glow after dark (quite literally). Explore the world of night travel with stories of bioluminescent fungi, frenzied markets, haunting night walks, and moonlit jungle safaris

As Amritsar sleeps, the Golden Temple casts a spiritual glow on all who visit this iconic holy shrine of the Sikhs

From Edinburgh to Whitby, a chronic night-tripper mingles with the weird and wonderful to get in the festive mood

by Vivek Menezes

By Shreya Sen-Handley

A Song for Ireland

Spanish Inclination

In the lyrical, rolling hills of County Kerry, the writer finds his clan

In salsa and poetry-loving Seville, a little change is a good thing

By Andrew McCarthy photographs by Dave Yoder

By Bruce Schoenfeld photographs by John Kernick

national Geographic Traveller INDIA | june 2015

velar grant/demotix/corbis/imagelibrary (stonehenge), Michael Weber/imageBROKER/Corbis/imagelibrary (food)

In Focus

On The Cover This photograph of revellers celebrating Guy Fawkes Night in England was shot by Lázár Gerg , a Hungarian-born photographer based in Brighton, England. The annual celebration marks the failure of the plot to blow up the Houses of Parliament and kill King James I, planned by Guy Fawkes and his crew for 5 November.

12 Editor’s Note  14 Inbox  121 Big Shot 122 Inspire  128 Travel Quiz 110

Journeys

PE HIKERU’S DEAT OF H

ALL YOU NEED TO PLAN A POLISH HOLIDAY

N A T I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C T ra v eller I n d ia

Stonehenge, England

ISSUE 12

Voices

Local Flavour

16 Tread Softly

The secret behind Sriracha hot sauce’s addictive punch

How feeding wildlife increases human-animal conflict

49 The Souvenir

18 Slow Travel

The protective charm of Baltic amber

Next time the travel bug bites, plan a staycation

50 Experience

20 Guest Column

Chasing reflections in Bolivia’s salt desert

Is travelling together the right way to test a relationship?

52 People in Places

Navigate

The people who give Mysore its contemporary flavour

22 Culture

Smart Traveller

Art and antiquities of Taipei’s National Palace Museum

54 Money Manager

24 The Insider

Krakow’s allure is equal parts medieval and contemporary

Intimacy and grit in the Mexican capital

58 Checking In Palace hotels in Lucerne

28 Geotourism

Delwara’s deities and stone temples are in good hands

Get Going

32 Lit Trip

The hike of death to Peru’s Wayna Picchu

A pilgrimage of longing to author Kamala Das’s home in Thrissur

36 National Park Discover the jungle’s smaller delights at Corbett National Park, Uttarakhand

42 Take Five Steam train journeys that transport you to another time

zoonar/urs flueeler/dinodia (car), stefania besca/getty images (woman), elzbleta sekowska (sclupture) Lázár Gerg /Demotix/Corbis/imagelibrary (cover)

Contents

Volume

The Trend Has the age of green flying arrived?

110 Adventure 114 Active Break Zip lining through Jodhpur’s Mehrangarh Fort

Short Breaks

116 From Kochi Surfing lessons and fiery fish curry in sandy Kovalam

Stay

118

Serenity, luxury, and mountain views in Kumaon 119 Hello Goodbye, it’s a Beatles-themed hotel

june 2015 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA

Editor’s Note | niloufer venkatraman

Navigate

Night Shift

The mind works a little differently at night time. It’s more likely to conjure mystery and fantasy

bed and listen to the din of the rain pounding on the tin roofs of old colonial-era bungalows. The mind works a little differently at night time. It’s more likely to conjure mystery and fantasy in familiar, well-known spaces. On holiday, most of us head indoors when daylight fades. Even if we’re in a big city with a bustling nightlife, it’s usually at a pub or nightclub that we party. At best, we make our way for some show or indoor entertainment. Even that great, fun, night out for the whole family at a drive-in theatre (there was one in Mumbai when I was a kid) is dead. But there’s another kind of after-dark theatre I love: The sound-and-light shows at several historic monuments in India. I’ve watched and listened in awe to the thundering of horse hooves reverberating across walls at Udaipur’s City Palace, and the unfolding of intrigue in the stories related at Gwalior Fort. At both places, it’s Amitabh Bachchan’s deep baritone that sends a magical tingle down the spine. This kind of storytelling just wouldn’t work indoors or before dusk. In the glaring light of day, it’s harder to give your imagination free reign. But under the cloak of night, the amphitheatre creates a stirring atmosphere—bringing alive the region’s history, and allowing visitors like me to journey back in time with the evocative lyrics.

The InsIder

InTImacy and grIT In mexIco cITy

national Geographic Traveller INDIA | june 2015

The Trend

has The age of green flyIng arrIved?

exPerIence

The greaT whITe bolIvIan salT deserT

Collector’s Edition Art And Antiquities At tAipei’s nAtionAl pAlAce MuseuM | By ZAc o’ YeAh

t christophe boisvieux/age fotostock/dinodia

National Geographic Traveller India is about immersive travel and authentic storytelling, inspiring readers to create their own journeys and return with amazing stories. Our distinctive yellow rectangle is a window into a world of unparalleled discovery.

naTIonal Park

corbeTT naTIonal Park, UTTarakhand

Taipei’s National Palace Museum has a collection of over 6,00,000 cultural relics that span 8,000 years of Chinese history.

Sound-and-light show at Amer Fort, Jaipur

our mission

aipei’s national palace Museum houses art spanning over five millennia, including rare pieces from china that were moved during the end of the 1948-49 revolution. this art migration saved thousands of priceless artefacts from the ravages of the 1960s cultural revolution when much of mainland china’s heritage was destroyed. Despite its vast collection, the museum isn’t daunting. as museums go it’s relatively small, with about a dozen halls spread over three floors where exhibits are displayed. i see ceramics,

ATLAS

Taipei, Taiwan

The museum’s garden is feng shui-approved, and dotted with ponds, and traditional Chinese pavilions.

national GeoGraphic traveller inDia | june 2015

ivory carvings, and the famous dichromatic jade cabbage with its minutely carved grasshoppers. they’re all quite striking, but it is another piece i find myself returning to: a tiny, green Ming dynasty box from the 16th or 17th century. on its lid is a carving so discreet— of a man in a landscape with a tree and bridge—that a magnifying glass is needed to view it. the explanatory plaque sums up what i feel after my time spent in the country: “the literati’s ideal happiness was either a leisurely time spent amid the mountains and rivers, or quiet moments in the

study enjoying calligraphic works or antiques, so as to, beyond the restrictions of time and space, engage in intimate mental dialogues with prior sages.”

The Vitals 221, Sector 2, Zhishan Road, north of central Taipei; take MRT to Shilin Station and switch to bus 304 or 255; see www.npm. gov.tw/en/ for visiting hours, they vary for different sections of the museum; English tours available with online booking.

june 2015 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA

pre-Andre hoffMAnn/look/dinodiA

he skies are clouding over and I feel like it’s going to rain. Even though it’s still mid-May, the unseasonal rainfall we’ve been getting in Maharashtra makes me think about the imminent monsoon, and of what I look forward to when it arrives. On normal working days, my eyes usually start closing by 9.30 p.m. and I can barely keep awake long enough to see the moon rise in the sky. But I make an exception when I’m on a break, especially in the monsoons. In Lonavla, I love taking a walk at night, when the rain has settled a little. Temporary pools of water come alive with the orchestra of hundreds of croaking frogs. If you make a sound of your own or try to shine a torch to look at the throaty creatures, they fall silent. Many of these frogs are purely nocturnal, which is no surprise since birds so like to feast on them. It’s quite a thrill to listen to them call out to mates from other seasonal pools. There are other nocturnal things I like staying up for way past bedtime. Like the sight of lightning flashes and the night-blooming Star of Bethlehem flower; the sounds of owls, barking deer, and monkeys; and the scent of raat ki rani and parijat in the air. In Karjat, Maharashtra, it’s a unique experience to watch villagers carrying Petromax lanterns and sticks, trying to grab at the large fish that enter the fields when the river overflows its banks. In Matheran, another popular hill station near Mumbai, I love to lie in

Navigate | take five

Rail Rambles

West Coast Wilderness Railway Tasmania The West Coast Wilderness Railway introduces passengers to Tarkine: the temperate rainforest that was once a mining hotspot and is now a cherished piece of Tasmania’s natural heritage. The train weaves through dense forests, occasionally passing iron bridges, and edging along the deep King River Gorge. West Coast Wilderness offers three tours. The half-day “Rack and Gorge” skirts the King River Gorge, “River and Rainforest” travels into the Tarkine after going past the harbour, while “Queenstown Explorer” offers a lesson in the mining town’s history. Visitors learn how ores were collected, washed, and readied for transportation, just like they were when the train was used to transport metal centuries ago (return tickets from AUD95/`4,540 adults, AUD 40/`1,910 children; tours run 15 Dec-31 May; www.wcwr.com.au).

Steam trains that transport you to another time | By Rumela Basu

rains have evolved greatly since the 1800s when the first steam locomotive puffed through England. They’ve become faster, sleeker, gone electric—Shanghai and Japan even have no-rails levitating trains called maglevs. Some locomotives however, are not part of the race. These old-fashioned steam trains are reminiscent of an age past, when puffs of smoke, long whistles, and stops at stations were the highlights of a train journey. They encourage travellers to soak in the passing landscapes, transporting them back to a time when life was slower-paced.

West Coast Railway Scotland

The original purpose of this North American railroad was to haul gold and silver ore from the San Juan Mountains to the plains. Today, it gives enthusiastic tourists a scenic tour of Colorado’s Wild West. The locomotive runs from the town of Durango to Silverton over 3.5 hours, crossing plunging gorges and jade rivers, climbing narrow paths along the rocky mountain face, and passing by the San Juan National Forest where elk, moose, and black bear live. In the colder months, a winter train runs on the same track, beginning at Durango but going beyond Silverton to the snow-covered mountains of Cascade Canyon Wye where passengers can picnic or hike along the river ($85/`5,325 for adults, $51/`3,200 for children between 4 and 11 years; from May to Oct; winter train from end-Nov to end-April; 1-888-872 4607; www. durangotrain.com).

national Geographic Traveller INDIA | june 2015

Jenny and Katie have been whistling past the sandy beaches of South Africa since the 1930s. The grand old dames take weekly trips from Cape Town to Simon’s Town, two hours away. The train rides offer a slice of South African life, winding past homes, rugby and cricket grounds, and onward to the Muizenberg coastline. Manicured greenery is replaced by crashing waves and views of False Bay. Colourful shacks line the beach and fishermen oblige enthusiastic passengers by waving as the train chugs past the towns of Kalk Bay and Glencairn. Break the journey with a dip in the sea or with a seafood spread before taking the train back to Cape Town (R300/`1,530 for adults, R200/`1,020 for children up to 12 years; trains run weekly and fortnightly between 12 April and 19 July; www.atlanticrail.co.za).

Julian Love/AWL Images/getty images (TASMANIA), squareplum/shutterstock (SOUTH AFRICA), jane sweeney/age fotostock/dinodia (INDIA)

Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad U.S.A.

Atlantic Rail South Africa

David Cation Photography/moment/getty images (SCOTLAND), John P Kelly/ Photographer’s Choice RF/getty images (U.S.A.)

This steam train from Fort William to Mallaig has been chugging through Scotland since the 1900s. But it wasn’t until the first Harry Potter movie released in 2001 that The Jacobite caught the attention of people worldwide: the locomotive played the Hogwarts Express, and has since been on the bucket list of Potter fans of all ages. The Jacobite’s journey is spectacular, winding past vast lochs, and gurgling streams. The highlight of the ride is when the train passes (and slows down) over the 100-foot-tall Glenfinnan Bridge. The viaduct—also featured in the Potter films—overlooks Loch Shiel, a lake with faraway hills in hues of blue and purple. Potter enthusiasts may dread a swooping dementor, but others keep their eyes peeled for telling waves on the still loch—signs that Nessie might be out and about (£29/`2,714 one-way ticket; £17/`1,575 chil-dren under 12; train runs 11 May-23 Oct; no services in winter; 0844-850 4685; www.westcoastrailways.co.uk).

Darjeeling Himalayan Railway India In 1881, the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway Company laid down a railroad connecting the hill station and Siliguri, much to the glee of sahebs of the British Raj. The 80-odd-km narrow-gauge railway line functions even today. The Toy Train, as it’s popularly called, whistles past bazaars, edging alarmingly close to the wares on display, while school children hop on and off the carriages. Its engineering has earned it UNESCO World Heritage status: the tracks have six zigzag reverses, on which the train alternates between reversing and moving ahead, gaining height in the process. It’s incredibly slow, but encourages passengers to soak in soul-soothing views of tea gardens and the majestic Kanchendzonga. The main railway line is currently under repair but trains run from Kurseong, the halfway point (`60 for a one-way ticket; free for children below 5 years; 011-3934 0000; www.irctc.co.in)

june 2015 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA

money manager

planning a trip for two in krakow

checking in

palace hotels in lucerne, switzerland

Getting Around Krakow is an emi-

nently walkable city with all its major sights concentrated in an easily manageable area. The Old Town is arranged in a grid and neatly ringed in by a green plant belt called Planty Park, which serves as a handy point to stop and get your bearings. Taxis cost 2 zloty/`35 per kilometre, so most rides within the city should cost around 15-30 zloty/`263-526. From the airport, a taxi into the city centre costs around 60 zloty/`1,052. Buses and trams are an easy, affordable way to get around the city. Sleep Well Make Krakow’s Old Town your base. With its historical charm and buzzing cafés, it is the seat of all the action. Charming Hotel Pod Roza, situated between the main Market Square and Florianska Gate, is housed in a 17thcentury Renaissance palace and really has the best possible location. Rooms are cosy, with sloping roofs and large windows that look out on to the red roofs and church spires of the Old Town (Florian'ska 1; podroza.hotel.com.pl; doubles from 650 zloty/`11,387). At the fringes of the Old Town sits the quirkily designed hotel Puro Krakow, with trendy, pop-coloured furniture, free Wi-Fi, bicycles, coffee, and a roster of in-house events (Ogrodowa 10; purohotel.pl; doubles from 419 zloty/`7,340). Familyfriendly and modern, Hotel Kossak is situated close to the Jewish district of Kazimierz and has great views of Wawel Hill (Plac Kossaka 1; hotelkossak.com; doubles from 573 zloty/`10,000).

One of Poland’s oldest cities, Krakow cherishes its past, but is hungry for the future.

Modern Medieval Krakow A couples holiday in the hip, historic polish city for under `60,000 | By Malavika Bhattacharya

t the stroke of every hour, a melodious trumpeting fills the air of Krakow’s atmospheric Old Town. But then abruptly, the sound falls away, as if the instrument was forcefully taken away from its player. I noticed this in the dead of night, when the city’s frenzied sounds had lulled. Later, I learned the tale behind this aberration: Seven centuries ago, a trumpet signal from the high towers of St. Mary’s Basilica was

national Geographic Traveller INDIA | JUNE 2015

used to warn of Tartar attacks. Once however, an arrow pierced the bugle player’s neck, mid note. The tune ended off-key, and has continued that way ever since. Every hour of every day, this fragmented tune is played at St. Mary’s tower, marking a bit of history. Tradition is important in Polish culture, but Krakow is a city that continuously looks forward. The former capital survived the atrocities of the

Town masterpieces lie. Start at the foot of Wawel Hill and follow this route— useful maps are available on the street along the way—through lively Grodzka street. Pause at Saints Peter and Paul’s Church to examine the 12 apostles who adorn its grand frontage. Walk through leafy Jagiellonian University where Copernicus studied in the 15th century. The route then leads through the main square and St. Florian’s Gate, and ends at St. Florian’s Church (open Mon-Sat 10 a.m.-2.20 p.m.; entry 12 zloty/`210). As the day progresses Rynek Główny transforms into a melee of activity: street performers, horse-drawn carriages, diners, and groups of friends rush about. Soak it in before ending the night at Piano Rouge. The upscale basement

Day 1 Historic Charm Dive deep into Krakow’s historic centre in Old Town. W.Majka

This is National Geographic Traveller India’s handy guide to Krakow, Poland. Here you get prices for everything, so you can plan and modify your trip depending on your budget. We’ve designed a mid-level holiday with a range of activities and a mix of dining options. On the basis of this itinerary, the cost for a three-day holiday in Krakow for two adults is `60,000 without airfare. Medieval and modern, Krakow is steeped in history, yet hip and trendy. Make the right choices based on your budget, and enjoy an affordable European holiday in this dynamic city.

medieval square. Overflowing buckets of flowers are hauled to the flower market while pushcarts briskly dispense fresh obwarzanek—a ring-like Polish bagel topped with salt—to office goers for 1.50 zloty/`26. The square’s centrepiece is the opulent, Gothic-style, 14th-century St. Mary’s Basilica (open 11.30 a.m.-6 p.m.), that curiously, now stands next to a Hard Rock Café. It’s all stained glass windows and gilded gold and there’s a wonderful choir at the evening service, which has the crowd spilling out onto the square. Across the square, the 14thcentury Cloth Hall is now a market with wooden stalls selling Polish crafts and curios. Trendy cafés full of lunching locals surround the square’s grand statues and period-era buildings. Step into Wesele for lunch. You can sit by the glass frontage and have a view of the bustling square while dining on Polish specialities like pork chops with sauerkraut and fried potatoes, and z· urek— a tangy rye soup with sausages and a quail egg (Main Square 10; +48-12-422 74 60; weselerestauracja.pl; meal for two around 140 zloty/`2,453). The 11-kilometre-long Royal Route was the coronation path of Polish kings and is the main artery along which many Old

Make Rynek Główny, or the main square, your first port of call. Mornings are the best time in Europe’s largest

Polish artist Igor Mitoraj was known for his exquisite sculptures of fragmented human bodies. One of his bronze works, popularly called The Head (top), stands in front of Krakow’s Town Hall Tower; In the Old Town, which dates back to the 13th century, historic houses, churches, and palaces sit cheek by jowl (bottom). JUNE 2015 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA

De Visu/Shutterstock (sclupture), ratikova/Shutterstock (car)

Smart Traveller

Second World War, and was seen as a prize to be taken by Nazi German forces. No wonder it fiercely guards its legacy. But Krakow also embraces students, travellers, and new trends. It’s most storied neighbourhoods—the Old Town and Kazimierz—host trendy cafés and buzzing bars alongside centuries-old buildings. From day to night, this picturesque city by the banks of Vistula River segues seamlessly from historic and religious to one full of revelry and curiosities.

In Focus | night travel

world

When we travel, our days are packed with adventure but when shadows grow and darkness falls, we tend to slow down, curl up, call it a night. On your next holiday, sleep in. Sleep long so you can stay up late to explore the world after hours. Kayak through neon waters in Trinidad and Tobago, catch the Milky Way from the highest ous ways of the nocturnal jungle. For the urban soul, there are tales of manic night markets, glow-in-the-dark cycle rides, and haunted city tours that will make your skin crawl. The night is young.

national Geographic Traveller INDIA | june 2015

XXXXXXXXXXXX nina Đurđevic (XXXXXXXXX)

observatory in the world, or score a seat on a moonlit safari to learn the mysteri-

Under an overcast, late-evening sky, the shadows cast by the flickering light of lanterns danced on dark walls. An eerie silence prevailed, broken only by the sound of footsteps on the cobblestones of a Zagreb street. Then a shrill shout pierced the night, apparently the town drunk was imploring the love of his life to come out. Against the backdrop of this unfolding drama, an actor quietly recounted a fascinating anecdote from Croatian author Marija Jurić Zagorka’s books, which are set in historic Zagreb. The Secrets of Grič night walking tour, led by an actress dressed as Zagorka (who died in 1957) takes participants through the hilltop streets of Zagreb’s medieval Upper Town, while exploring its tumultuous history through her books. In Zagorka’s novels, which span the 13th to late-18th centuries, fictitious characters experience actual historical events. During the tour, costumed characters stationed at various points re-enact salient incidents, investing the nearly empty streets with an air of drama. The tour began in the late evening, at the top of the Capuchin stairs that climb alongside a funicular to the heart of the old town. Joining about two dozen fellow tourists, I watched the lines between fantasy and reality blur with the evening’s first enactment. A golden-haired woman dressed in white and holding aloft a ball of light stood at the top of Lotrščak tower, evoking the legend about one of the city’s founders, whose ghost is said to help quarrelling brothers reconcile. Every few steps, actors enacted a scene or tradition from the town’s history. On Kuševićeva Street, we met an actor playing the town’s lamplighter who lights the 200-odd gas lamps each evening, and turns them off the next morning— a tradition going back to medieval times. He reeled off a musical verse about the lamp keeping a watch on things that go on under its nose.

Zagreb, Croatia

A short way ahead, on Ćirilometodska Street, our progress was barred by fierce nightwatchmen, who commanded us to leave before the town’s gates were shut for the night. On Vitezićeva Street, we watched love bloom between the unlikely pair of Countess Nera and Captain Siniša, characters in Zagorka’s seven-novel series, Grička vještica or “The Witch of Grič”. The story of love wove together the class and gender prejudices of the 18th century as well as the then prevalent practice of witch burning. In this manner we saw the town’s most famous landmarks: the Zagreb Cathedral, St. Mark’s Church, St. Catherine’s Church, the town gate and the medieval tower. Most of the shops were shut and there were few pedestrians around, but the tour’s cast more than made up for the otherwise deserted streets. Along with the more fanciful recreations—ghosts, knights in armour, witches—we also crossed paths with actors portraying people we might have more likely encountered a few centuries ago, such as peasants, soldiers, and nobles. And yes, we even met the town drunk, standing under a balcony and calling up to his lover.—Anita Rao Kashi

the vitals

The Secrets of Gri tour is conducted in Zagreb in English on Saturday evenings from May to September. It begins at 9 p.m. and lasts about an hour (tajnegrica. hr; +385-914615672; €20/`1,420; includes a hot beverage, traditional snacks, and a souvenir).

ˇ night The Secrets of Gric walk, Zagreb, Croatia (also facing page)

nina Đurđevic

After Hours

Street Drama

In China, rotating pods atop Guangzhou’s Canton Tower overlook one of the world’s most populous cities.

june 2015 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA

In Focus | night travel

In the Glow

world Sakleshpur, Karnataka & Purushwadi, Maharastra

national Geographic Traveller INDIA | june 2015

Rome’s Parco degli Acquedotti bridges ancient and modern.

Van Gogh-Roosegaarde Bicycle Path, Eindhoven, Netherlands

Eindhoven, The Netherlands

the vitals

Starry, Starry Ride Sky Spotting | Map out the night sky with digital skywatching software such as Starry Night Pro (available for Mac and Windows). Its Pro Plus edition lets you print sky charts and observe the universe from 99,999 B.C. to A.D. 99,999. Starry Night also offers images of constellations, planets, 65 million stars, and one million deep-sky objects (astronomy. starrynight.com; $150/`9,500).

Experience the strokes and swirls of Impressionist Vincent van Gogh’s legendary painting, “The Starry Night”, on a kilometre-long bike ride near Eindhoven, just outside the city of Neunen in southwestern Netherlands, where the artist lived and worked between 1883 and 1885. To mark the 125th anniversary of van Gogh’s death, Dutch artist Daan Roosegaarde has helped create a bike path which resembles the painting. It is lined with glow-in-the-dark stones and fitted with 50,000 LED lights that create a magical, shimmering path. The stretch is part of a larger, 334-kilometre van Gogh Cycle Route that is open to the public all year round (www.vangogheurope.eu/event/ bicycle-route-by-van-gogh). june 2015 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA

fietspad foto Studio Roosegaarde

Grassroutes, a rural tourism initiative, organises Festival of a Million Fireflies in Maharashtra from May to July (88794 77437; grassroutes. co.in; from `1,990 per day, including shared accommodation and meals).

trevor williams/getty images

he first time I witnessed the firefly mating season was three years ago, when I was with my brother in Sakleshpur, Karnataka. We’d spent the day trawling the hill station’s markets and exploring Tipu Sultan’s fort, but mostly bickering with the proficiency that comes from sharing a room for over a decade. By dusk, we were ready to tear each other’s hair out. Hoping the forest would provide salve, I retreated to the balcony of our cottage, nestled among cinnamon trees and coffee shrubs, to soak in the rising thrum of the cicadas. My brother went for a walk. As night fell, I began to notice the fireflies, just a few at first, then some more, until it seemed like the entire forest was draped with strings of fairy lights. They hovered over little pools of water, lit up the barks of jackfruit trees, and settled on broad, green banana leaves, flashing on and off every few seconds. The Western Ghats, I later learned, are home to many varieties of these bioluminescent insects and only members of the same sub-species flash at the same time. The brighter the spark is, the higher the odds of the male scoring a female. “It’s like magic, no?” my brother whispered from a few feet behind me. I wrapped my shawl tighter around me, gently moving a glowing firefly that had parked on my knee. “It really is,” I replied gesturing at the empty chair a few feet from me. We sat there for well over an hour, bewitched by the tiny bugs, our squabbles silenced by their amorous display. I’ve visited the Western Ghats every year since, and every time, I have returned to Mumbai filled with wonder for the natural world. At Purushwadi in Maharashtra, I camped with friends, wallowing in a shallow stream by day, and watching the fireflies light up the hillside at night. In Coorg, where I was a few weeks ago, I watched them yet again, and tried in vain to capture their magic on camera. Every place is different—the deeper the forest, the louder the background score—but the delicate spell these little pinpricks of light weave is just as potent. —Neha Sumitran

In Focus | night travel

Cities change dramatically by night, and can sometimes be intimidating to first-time visitors. Thankfully, most urban hotspots, from Cape Town to Moscow, have tours to help travellers make the most of their nights. In New York, guided walks take visitors to the city’s international icons, local legends, and vantage points like the Brooklyn waterfront, which affords a stunning view of the Manhattan skyline. In Kyoto, Japan, bus tours takes visitors to UNESCO World Heritage sites like the To-ji Temple and Nijo-jo Castle, for viewing in a different light. Around the U.S. capital Washington D.C., Monuments by Moonlight, is a popular tour while London is known for its themed night expeditions (several are free) that show sights both classic and quirky.

Hanle, Ladakh, India

Indian Astronomical Observatory, Hanle, Jammu and Kashmir

Eye in the sky

At an altitude of almost 15,000 feet, The Indian Astronomical Observatory at Hanle, in the Changthang region of Ladakh, is one of the world’s highest observatories. Stargazing through their optical, infrared, and gammaray telescopes is a surreal experience. The few visitors it allows inside need prior permission; the institute does not entertain walk-ins. This almost-deserted region has clear skies most of the year, so stargazing without the observatory’s equipment is an option for travellers who do not mind camping out (www.iiap.res.in).

Martin Luther King Jr. Memorial, Washington D.C., U.S.A.

Bon Accord Lagoon, Trinidad and Tobago

Neon Waters Stand up paddling is fun any time of day, but at night it takes on an ethereal dimension. Among the mangroves of Bon Accord Lagoon on the south Caribbean island of Tobago, each stroke of the paddle turns the water neon-green. The surreal sight is thanks to a species of bioluminescent plankton that are activated by movement. Duane Kenny at Stand Up Paddle is a patient teacher who will have you balancing on the board and paddling through the water with ease. His lessons begin with a 30-minute introductory lesson followed by a two-hour tour of Bon Accord Lagoon (www.standuppaddletobago. com/bioluminescence-tour; $60/`3,850 per head). History Lesson In his book At Day’s Close: Night in Times Past, writer A. Roger Ekirch shares the results of his two-decade-long research into the “missing half of history”. He gives readers a rare glimpse into what Europeans were up to during the night-time in pre-industrial society (circa 1500-1750). The book has been acclaimed for its fascinating research into an unusual subject (W. W. Norton & Company, 2005).

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kropic1/shutterstock (memorial), pallava bagla/corbis (astronomical observatory), print collector/contributor/getty images (sketch)

THE LATE SHOW

world

Journeys | the essence

spain

Spanish Inclination

national Geographic Traveller INDIA | june 2015

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Seville’s Metropol Parasol, currently the world’s largest wood structure, updates the skyline. Facing page: Flamenco dancers, here on break, carry on a cultural tradition.

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in seville, a little change is a good thing

By B R U CE SCHOEN F ELD

P h oto g r a p h s by j o h n k e r n i c k

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Journeys | the essence

spain

ata negra hams hang above the small wooden bar of El Rinconcillo like Christmas stockings. Around me, servers are delivering tapas of marinated anchovies, fried croquetas, and exquisitely sliced ham in an improvised ballet that has taken place here since 1670, when this Seville restaurant first opened its doors. Moorish handpainted tiles, variations of which seem to adorn every corner of this ancient Spanish city, decorate the walls. The conversation buzzes in the Andalusian Spanish I learned to understand while living here in the 1980s. Suddenly, I notice an elderly man shuffling toward a woman at a nearby table. He’s wearing a suit he might have purchased in the 1940s and an expression on his face straight out of a Goya painting. With great ceremony, he hands the woman a waxy paper napkin with writing on it. “A poem for you,” he says. Then he bows. She reads it aloud.

A horseman and two toreros ready for a bullfight in the Maestranza, Seville’s storied bullring. Facing page: Painted tiles announce the tapas bar El Patio San Eloy.

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Viste de negro Tiene una melena maravilla y Eres mas Hermosa que la noche con Estrellas! Besos (Vision in black/You have marvellous long hair and/You are more beautiful than the night with stars!/ Kisses) I arrived in Seville an hour ago, after six years away; the dulling anywhereness of air travel still covers me like a shawl. Yet a few moments inside El Rinconcillo are enough to remind me why this city is my favourite. A courtly man approaching a woman he doesn’t know, spontaneous verse in hand, with the sole intent of acknowledging her beauty, is something that typically doesn’t happen in the 21st century. It still happens here. A comet’s tail of patrons, each one holding a glass, trails out the front door and onto the street. Yet apart from its long history, this woodbeamed bar is just one of dozens, even hundreds in the city. In the nearly 30 visits I’ve made to Seville, including living here for nine months while researching a book a quarter century ago, I’ve never set foot in the place. Nevertheless, I know it intimately. More than anywhere else I have been, Seville resists change. From its passion for bullfights to a fondness for the pageantry and spectacle of the Catholic religion, the capital of

Andalusia always has revelled in its traditional way of life. “Sevilla is a feminine city,” author James Michener wrote in Iberia, his 1968 masterpiece about Spain. He noted “the forbidding femininity of a testy old dowager set in her preferences and self-satisfied in her behaviour,” then added, “It is not by accident that Sevilla has always been most loyal to movements that in the rest of Spain are in decline.” This puts it in a tricky position for the Internet age, which dictates that a city looking backward risks being left behind. But for those of us who return to smell the orange blossoms, walk beneath old church arcades, and applaud the artistry of bullfights, such predictability is nothing short of miraculous. “Every time you come here, you say the same thing,” my friend Irene López-Melendo chides me when I call to say I’ve arrived. “Nothing else you know is as constant as Seville.” When I’m in Seville, I fall back on old habits. For one thing, I sleep hours later than at home. The city sits in Spain’s southwestern corner, an hour’s drive from the Atlantic Ocean and at the far western edge of its time zone. It really should be in the next one over, with Lisbon, not Berlin. The narrow streets don’t receive full sunshine in the springtime until late morning, yet the sun lingers until nearly 10 p.m. june 2015 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA

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Journeys | the essence “Seville is doing really well,” López-Melendo tells me when we meet for a glass of wine at an Alameda bar. “But the question is whether it’s sustainable. Andalusia doesn’t actually make anything, so tourism is very important. If we change the city too much, people won’t want to come.” She’s 50, from an old-line conservative family that was still mourning the death of Spanish dictator Francisco Franco when we met in 1989. A student then, she and her group of friends would meet at the same bars nightly. Any attempt I’d make to steer the group toward somewhere down the street or around the corner would be met with incredulity. “Hombre,” she’d say. “Our group goes to these bars.” So I understand her discomfort watching the city evolve. I, too, sense an accommodation to today’s international travellers, who might expect CNN in their hotel room, perhaps even sushi for dinner. As I take the meandering walks that the labyrinthine city all but demands from its visitors, I’m surprised to find paths for jogging—though I can’t imagine my Sevillano friends doing any form of exercise—and a gleaming new Metro system. Thankfully, they don’t appear to have supplanted the elements that make Seville unique. On pedestrian Calle Sierpes, I step inside Juan Foronda, a store filled with the lace mantillas that women wear during Seville’s annual April fair, or Feria. There is one controversial addition to the cityscape: The Metropol Parasol, a huge canopy structure that looks like a crosshatched potato chip. Supported by columns thick as bridge piers and sprawling across most of two city blocks, it was designed to shade the reincarnated Plaza de la Encarnación and to “activate,” in architect Jürgen Mayer Hermann’s words, this workmanlike part of the city with new bars, restaurants, and shopping venues. I wander beneath the canopy, thankful for the shade on a warm day, then take an escalator down to see Roman ruins that were excavated during its construction. From there, I ride an elevator up to the structure’s top level (a three-euro fee includes, in a wonderfully Sevillano touch, a complimentary glass of beer or wine). Stepping out, I find myself up on an elevated boardwalk that dips and curves with the wood “parasol” like a bobsled run. Before me extends a panorama of the city—a series of panoramas, actually, because the vantage point changes with every step I take. I want to be disdainful, because placing this post-modern construction—whatLópez-Melendo called “a big mistake”—in the midst of an ancient city is a ridiculous idea. But each turn brings an unexpected vista, and I stop and stare. Soon, I’m rehearsing what I will say to López-Melendo. “What it does, it does very well.” And: “You have to admit, there really is nothing like it anywhere else.” “Seville is a place with so much force in its traditions, it’s very difficult for it to accept Local singer Mor Karbasi enjoys lunch at Bar Alfalfa, popular for its tapas.

spain

As a result, Sevillanos dine even later than most Spaniards, often not until midnight. That means arriving at work blearyeyed if you’re a resident, one explanation for the city’s famed lack of productivity. Beyond that, the old buildings have thick walls that deter the heat and wooden shutters that close tight against the day. Thus it’s barely a surprise when I open my eyes my first morning just moments before the church bells toll noon. I’m staying at a hotel, Palacio de Villapanés, that I remember as an ornate private residence. On my way for a cup of tea, I cross burnished parquet floors under vaulted ceilings. Portraits of matadors line the freshly painted walls. My minibar, I’ve already noted approvingly, is stocked with Manzanilla sherry. The whole city seems to have a new coat of paint. Formerly downtrodden neighbourhoods appear to be thriving. When I last visited, the Alameda de Hércules, one of Europe’s oldest public gardens, was overgrown with weeds; its two Roman columns presided over an informal parking lot for the Cineplex, and drug addicts made deals under the poplar trees. I’d get propositioned as I walked to see a movie, even in daylight. Now I see tapas bars on all sides, filled with crowds of people snacking and sipping.

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Get Going | peru

Adventure Intensity The hike is steep and challenging. the path is narrow and traverses the edge of the mountainside, sometimes without handrails.

The percentage of Machu Picchu’s ruins that scientists believe are yet to be excavated

Easy Moderate

Demanding

Hike of Death A treacherous climb up Machu Picchu’s neighbour, Wayna Picchu by aanchal anand

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slippery stairs carved out of rock. I inhale pages of tips, warnings, success stories, and death reports. I am terrified but also excited at the prospect of an adventure— and wanting to get my money’s worth drives me to craft a training plan. I don’t stick to it. Less than two weeks before the hike, I find myself scrambling on the treadmill. Research has warned me that the 2.5-hour hike of death is not for those in poor physical condition. Nervous and unprepared, the night before my visit to Machu Picchu, I drift in and out of sleep. The hike hijacks my every thought. Thunderstorms at Aguas Calientes, the town that provides the nearest access point to Machu Picchu, exacerbate my fear. I know that the Inca Trail is closed during the rains due to potential landslides. Since I am hiking in

The path to the summit is carved into a steep rock surface. I learn one thing about the Incas: They did not give a damn about vertigo

wet January, I worry that one slippery step will send me plunging 600 metres to my death. Next morning, I am moved by the fresh air and the roar of the Urubamba River. I take the tourist bus from Aguas Calientes

to Machu Picchu’s entrance gate. Some tourists choose to walk the nine kilometres, along a gorgeous path shrouded in lush Andean jungle, but I decide to conserve my energy for the treacherous climb up Wayna Picchu.

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3523studio/shutterstock (Machu Picchu), milosk50/shutterstock (llama)

When explorer Hiram Bingham came upon Machu Picchu in 1911 he thought he had reached Vilcabamba, the lost city of the Incas (top); The Incas domesticated llamas (bottom) and used their dung as fertiliser to grow maize, which greatly helped them expand their empire.

Björn Kietzmann/Demotix/corbis/imagelibrary

A 1.5-hour, steep climb takes tourists from Machu Picchu to Wayna Picchu, which is about 1,000 feet higher than the famous Incan ruins.

ayna Picchu, which means “young peak” in the Andean language Quechua, is the tall mountain you usually see in the backdrop of pictures of Machu Picchu. The magnificent ruins of Machu Picchu, dubbed the greatest archaeological find of the 20th century, are carefully maintained; only 2,000 tourists are allowed to visit every day. Wayna Picchu (or Huayna Picchu) allows much fewer: only 400 per day. On the recommendation of Renzo, my Peruvian friend, I book tickets to Wayna Picchu as an extension to my Machu Picchu visit, before they’re sold out. Only later do I begin my research, which is when Google’s suggestion tool throws up “Wayna Picchu deaths”, sending me on an Internet research frenzy. I realise then that I have signed up for something called the “hike of death”, a steep ascent up an ancient flight of crumbling,

At 6.30 a.m., you don’t just walk into Machu Picchu, you saunter among clouds. The experience is surreal, like the depiction of heaven in movies. The sun is nothing more than a pale disc and the mountains are but silhouettes behind a veil of clouds. Paying little attention to the free map given at the entrance, I run up the steps, jump down the wide terraces, and circle the granite houses and temples of this once-lost Inca city. Then the cloud cover lifts, and I am face-to-face with my fears. “How are they doing this?” I wonder as I watch the tiny dots of people atop the terraces on Wayna Picchu. The path from Machu Picchu to the summit of Wayna Picchu is carved, not comfortably around the mountain, but on one side, into

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the steep rock surface. Towards the top, the tree line disappears. I have never studied the Incas but I learn one thing about them instantly: They did not give a damn about vertigo. I am in the 10 a.m. batch, the later of the two groups of 200 people each that are allowed up Wayna Picchu every day. The 7 a.m. group gets to see a quieter summit, while ours will get better views of the ruins of Machu Picchu down below, after the clouds have dissolved. Taking a deep breath, I comfort myself with the thought that I can always retreat. The walk starts with a jungle trail that snakes downhill. Over 600 metres below, the Urubamba gushes along its course. As the ascent begins, I encounter hikers from the 7 a.m. group on their way down.

national Geographic Traveller INDIA | june 2015

atlas

Machu Picchu, Peru

The stones in an Inca building are said to “dance” during an earthquake, bouncing through the tremors and then falling back into place.

“How was it?” I can’t help asking. Answers range from “difficult” to “amazing.” The more of them I see, the more reassured I feel. But the trek gets harder. The steps are breathlessly steep, dangerously narrow, or a combination of the two. Safety rails play hide-and-seek, present in some stretches, absent in others. Sweat soaks into my clothes as I lug my body forward. It’s a challenging hike and I have to stop often. With shallow breath and my heartbeat ringing in my ears, I lean against the mountain wall to avoid the drop. Many overtake me, though sometimes we get stuck behind each other on a narrow path. A couple that passes me returns a little later, complaining that the way ahead is too steep for them. I keep going slowly, cautiously.

Machu Picchu’s draw is as much its stunning location among towering Andean peaks as the fascinating history of its disappearance and rediscovery.

Some 15 minutes later, I realise that I must have crossed the point where they turned back. My mental celebration evaporates, however, when I realise I am out of drinking water. Looking up at the perpendicular rock above me, I have no clue how much longer I have to keep going. My thirsty eyes spot a trickle from the previous night’s rain. I make my way to the steps below it and let the sweet mineral drops fall into my mouth. A hiker on her way down turns the corner and sees the ridiculous scene of me lapping water from the rock. Smiling, she tells me it’s less than five minutes to the top. A few steps later, Wayna Picchu bursts open into green, widestepped terraces—a contrast to the grey rocky way that snakes up to it. Stepping out of the tree cover, the magnificent ruins of

A few steps later, Wayna Picchu bursts open into green, widestepped terraces— a contrast to the grey rocky way that snakes up to it

Machu Picchu become visible below. But then I realise that I am not quite at the top, the summit still lies ahead. Turns out there is a cave to cross and then a second, even narrower one to plough through. Finally, an unexpected wooden ladder buried in steep rock makes my last steps to the top possible. The summit has a few big stones that tourists climb on to take selfies. It is crowded, so I crawl onto a

rock carefully, claiming my space with a few others. Machu Picchu is just 360 metres below to my left and the Urubamba River down by my right. When I feel sure of my footing and the ground beneath my feet, I stand up tall. Face flushed, I feel a sense of invincibility. Though I am tiny and at the mercy of a towering mountain, I have conquered something big inside me.

The Vitals Though the writer went in January, July to August is the dry season and considered the ideal time to visit Machu Picchu. Tickets sell out several months in advance, so plan ahead and book early. During the low, rainy season, for example between November and April, tickets can be bought roughly four weeks in advance. They can be purchased at the Peruvian government’s site: www.machupicchu.gob.pe. Combined tickets to Machu Picchu and Wayna Picchu cost PEN152/`3,068. Students with an International Student Identity Card pay half-price.

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mark daffey/lonely planet images/getty images

Exploring Machu Picchu’s complex of homes and temples (left) provides fascinating insights into the architectural prowess of the Incas; The hike up to Wayna Picchu is tricky (top right) with narrow paths on some stretches; Hikers to Wayna Picchu (bottom right) can visit the Temple of the Moon. The Incas used no mortar, all the stones used in their structures were cut and wedged so precisely that there are no gaps in between.

alex robinson/passage/corbis/imagelibrary (stone houses), elzbieta sekowska/shutterstock (climber), keith levit/design pics/corbis/imagelibrary (sign)

Get Going | peru

kerala

Kovalam’s Small Joys

Deck with a view

`300/person respectively). The speedboats usually head a few kilometres out to sea and zip along the coast, providing a view of Kovalam and its adjoining beaches. Kovalam’s best snorkelling spots are off the rocky headlands that separate its main beaches, but the sea can get rough in the monsoon. Go snorkelling from December to March. The region’s marine life includes parrot fish, angel fish, groupers, and moray eels. It’s best to organise this through your hotel or at the beach. In May 2015, the Kerala Adventure Tourism Promotion Society launched scuba diving in Kovalam (`3,000/person for 30 minutes and `1,500/person for 15 minutes; 471-2320777/ 94460 74020). Sessions include 30 minutes of familiarisation in a pool.

To get a fix on Kovalam’s topography, visit the observation deck of the candy-striped lighthouse at the southern end of Lighthouse beach. It’s an approximately 157-step barefoot climb (footwear is not allowed), including a final stretch up an almost vertical metal ladder, to the deck. You’ll probably arrive breathless but the view is worth the effort. And if you go up as soon as the lighthouse opens for the day, there’s a good chance you’ll have the deck to yourself for a few minutes (daily 10 a.m.12.30 p.m. and 2-5 p.m.; tickets `3 to `25; camera passes `20 and `25).

DAY S

Surf for a cause Kovalam has a small, but growing surfing scene thanks to the Kovalam Surf Club, which opened in 2005. The club offers surfing lessons to people with varying levels of expertise. The only requirement is that learners have some basic swimming skills, says Mani Sreekumar, the club’s director. Classes run through the year, except during the monsoon months (June to August). The club also has a shop that sells and rents out surfing gear. And the club’s profits go to Sebastian Indian Social Projects, a non-profit that supports women’s empowerment and education programmes for school dropouts in the area (kovalamsurfclub.com; classes `1,000 for 1.5 hours).

Besides swimming and adventure sports, visitors can also take a boat ride in a traditional catamaran.

Some of my earliest memories of family vacations from Trivandrum (officially Thiruvananthapuram) involve Kovalam. I fondly remember the short yet seemingly never-ending drive zigzagging along twisty roads, the gradual descent between palm groves, the salty tang in the air, and the sudden expanse of beach, with the sea stretching off into the yonder. At the time, Kovalam was little more than a fishing village, with few visitors and fewer buildings on its three main

beaches—the Ashok or Grove beach, Hawah or Eve’s beach, and the southernmost Lighthouse beach. Today, it’s a small town, the beaches lined by rows of shops, restaurants, and hotels. Kovalam’s beaches and its warm, shallow waters ideal for swimming are its biggest draw, which is why it can get pretty crowded with visitors on weekends and holidays. But there are also other ways to explore this laid-back town.

The Vitals

Kovalam is 16 km/35 minutes south of Trivandrum, which is also where the closest airport and major railway station are located. It is 212 km/5.5 hours south of Kochi, via Trivandrum.

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Sundowner

On the water For the mildly adventurous, there are snorkelling expeditions that go out on a catamaran, and speedboat rides (from `3,000 for 2.5 hours and

The cafes at Lighthouse beach (top) in Kovalam are a great place to watch the clouds roll in as India’s southwest monsoon sets in; Lighthouse beach is lined with restaurants, cafés, and shops (centre) that cater to the tourist traffic and are as eclectic as the travellers who visit this town; Surfing (bottom) really took off in Kovalam about 10 years ago. Many members of the Kovalam Surf Club are young people from the villages nearby.

End the day the Kovalam way, with a sundowner (now mostly non-alcoholic due to Kerala’s new liquor laws) and a meal at one of the restaurants on Hawah and Lighthouse beaches. Traditional food is almost always tempered to suit foreign palates. For the real deal, have a meal at the multicuisine Hotel Sea Face. The beef fry and meen pollichathu (fish roasted in banana leaf) are both very good. Lighthouse beach has many options, ranging from Lonely Planet, which has a vegetarian menu, to Beatles and Malabar Café. My favourite is German Bakery, which has an eclectic menu and a terrace with a view. Dinner at hotels like Vivanta by Taj-Green Cove or The Leela Kovalam comes with distinctive views of Thiruvananthapuram’s coastline and fishing vessels twinkling like a thousand fireflies on the sea.

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Athul Prasad (beach), ajuergen hasenkopf/alamy/indiapicture (people), courtesy: kovalamsurfclub.com (surfing)

Speedboat rides, surfing, and sundowners are just a short drive from Trivandrum | By Sankar Radhakrishnan

four ways to explore

robert harding/indiapicture

the insider

Short Breaks | from kochi