OCTOBER 2015 • `150 • VOL. 4
ISSUE 4
ISLAND HOPPING
GUIDE TO NORTHEASTERN INDONESIA
THE SCIENCE ISSUE Unravelling the mysteries of the universe through travel
DINOSAURS IN GUJARAT | ROCKET LAUNCHES IN KERALA | ARMCHAIR ASTRONAUTS IN FLORIDA
n a t i o n a l g e o g r a p h i c t r av e l l e r i n d i a
october 2015
Contents Vol 4 Issue 4
the science issue
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Soaring in Space
Pushing the boundaries of human possibility at Florida’s Kennedy Space Center By Neha Dara
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Like Clockwork Mapping the Jantar Mantar observatories, India’s scientific playgrounds By Zac O’Yeah
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Set in Stone
On the quest for dinosaurs in the arid grasslands of Gujarat By Rumela Basu
Cosmic Connections in Kerala How a little church near Trivandrum helped India reach for the stars By Kamakshi Ayyar
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In the Wings
Behind the scenes at the Boeing factory, where jetliners are born By Sankar Radhakrishnan
Journeys
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Peak Experience
Forty years after the war, a native son returns to find the country in the midst of a golden age—from the shimmering bays to the unapologetic spirit of modernity By Andrew Lam roy anderson/national geographic creative
Celebrating a new marriage and a big birthday with a gruelling hike in New Hampshire’s White Mountains By Joyce Maynard Photographs by Dan Westergren
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The Glow of Vietnam
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voices
OCTOBER 2015 • `150 • VOL. 4
ISSUE 4
ISLAND HOPPING
GUIDE TO NORTHEASTERN INDONESIA
30 Crew Cut
34 Guest Column
Hyped expectations can ruin a holiday. Here’s how to avoid falling prey
n av i g a t e
36 Go Now
Gir National Park opens its gates with even more lions than before
Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary is a pocket-sized haven for Goa’s flora and fauna THE SCIENCE ISSUE
S M A RT TR A V E L L ER
Unravelling the mysteries of the universe through travel
DINOSAURS IN GUJARAT | ROCKET LAUNCHES IN KERALA | ARMCHAIR ASTRONAUTS IN FLORIDA
On The Cover A young boy experiences what it feels like to float in zero gravity in a scaled replica of the International Space Station. It is one of the simulation modules at the Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex in Florida, U.S.A.
58 Money Manager
Island-hopping in northeast Indonesia
70 Checking In
Rooms with stirring water views and novel ways to explore them
Get Going
128 Adventure
Dizzying views of Toronto from a ledge atop CN Tower
38 The Source
130 Volunteering
Indonesia: Where the batik print was born
Releasing baby turtles at Costa Rica’s Osa Peninsula
40 Bookshelf
Poignant essays on life in Tibet, Korea, and other Asian lands
S h o r t B r e ak s
From Delhi
42 Local Flavour
Dirty rice: Louisiana’s classic Cajun dish
44 Take Five
From gritty industrial to hip and cultural, tales of urban renewal
48 Experience
The London Dungeon resurrects Britain’s dark past with thrills and a touch of humour
r e g u la r s 22 Editor’s Note 24 Tribute 26 Notebook 138 Inspire 144 Dire Straits
132 Restful Bhimtal is the centrepiece of Uttarakhand’s lake district Stay
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Swapping tiger tales over cocktails near Bandhavgarh National Park
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A boutique hotel in Mumbai blends colonial charm with urban chic
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michael steele/staff/getty images sport/getty images (rabbit), photo courtesy: brand canada library (people), photo courtesy: kennedy space centre (cover)
What happens when a backpacker checks into a posh, all-inclusive beach resort?
Baku’s Heydar Aliyev Center has no straight lines
54 National Park
Snorkelling in Australia yields valuable lessons in cherishing the moment
32 Slow Travel
52 Super Structures
Editor’s Note |
n i lou f e r v en katra m a n
Inside Story
Having someone decode local customs and traditions can save you a world of grief
our mission
Guide Yasin Aleskerli explains the imagery of the Khan Palace in Shaki, Azerbaijan
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of a hit-or-miss. I’ve had guides trying to scam me into shopping at a particular store to extract a hefty commission. I’ve had guides who bluff their way through their jobs. On the same Ladakh trip, at Alchi, a monk, or a man dressed as a monk, was assigned to us as a guide. It was a wasted afternoon as he knew even less about the place and religion than my hastily printed Internet-researched sheets. Even better, I recall a writer once reported what a Khajuraho guide had told him. When asked why the temples were covered with erotic sculptures, this gentleman had insisted that these magnificent temples were built by kings just to tell their citizens what not to do. Barring a few instances though, I’ve been lucky to find guides who are passionate about their jobs. A proficient guide provides insights into how locals live and their relationship to their town. For instance, in Jaisalmer Fort earlier this year, my guide Mukesh, took me into the interior lanes of this gorgeous living fort, to places few tourists actually roam. We ended the tour with a stopover at his traditional home, where I met his mother, admired his wife’s rangoli designs, and learned how, against community norms, he’d had a “love marriage.” The nice thing about having a human guide as opposed to an app is that my questions are answered immediately. In Azerbaijan this July, on a trip with other Nat Geo editors and photographers, I had one of the best guides I’ve been around. Yasin was a storehouse of information and a good listener, but most importantly, he fed our sense of wonder and allowed us to gain more depth out of our visit. He infected us with his enthusiasm and— perhaps to his own exhaustion—we ended up asking even more questions. A few days into the trip it was easy to embrace him as a friend. Guides are often more than just guides. Well-informed Nina led us through the forests of Indonesia’s Kalimantan. She was friendly, identified orangutans by name, and was extremely patient with my eightyear-old daughter, acting like an older sister to her. I cannot emphasize enough, the difference having a good guide makes to the travel experience. Having someone decode local customs and traditions can save you a world of grief. She can, for example, help you order food that you will enjoy, ensure you are appropriately dressed for sightseeing, and show you a place’s little-known gems. Even when I’ve travelled on a budget, I’d rather skimp on the shopping or skip the nice dinner, and shell out that extra something for an accomplished guide.
National Geographic Traveller India is about immersive travel and authentic storytelling, inspiring readers to create their own journeys and return with amazing stories. Our distinctive yellow rectangle is a window into a world of unparalleled discovery.
national Geographic Traveller INDIA | october 2015
Chirodeep Chaudhuri
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or those interested, I’m offering some travel advice. It’s quite simple: When you travel to a new place that you’re eager to discover, get yourself a good local guide. And, ask lots of questions. Many important tourist sites now have superb audio guides, and I have enjoyed them, especially where there is a language barrier. But a private guide provides the critical human interaction, which creates a more memorable experience. When I explored Mumbai’s Fort Area (my very own backyard) with an architecture student as a guide, a world I’d been blind to revealed itself to me. A good guide completely changes the way you experience a place. One summer in Ladakh, I had planned a visit to several monasteries near Leh on one day, and suddenly realised the evening before that I had not arranged for a guide. I walked into the nearest travel agent’s office, where a helpful lady at the desk found me one: a local schoolteacher on vacation. He was a font of knowledge about the monasteries, and shared with me interesting perspectives on local culture and the Buddhism of the region. His stories made the thangkas hanging on monastery walls come alive; the spiritual resonance of the places we visited became more pronounced. Without him, I’d have seen only a series of Buddhas in different forms and positions. Without him, I wouldn’t have stopped at Thiksey Gompa’s dining hall and kitchen and glimpsed monks cooking, eating, serving food, and going about their daily lives. Without him, it just wouldn’t have been such a culturally absorbing experience. Getting the right person however, can be a bit
CREW CU T
The Real Catch SNORKELLING IN AUSTRALIA YIELDS VALUABLE LESSONS IN CHERISHING THE MOMENT
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o the seagull flying above me, I imagine I look like a tiny black smudge on a canvas of translucent blues. Floating in the ocean, my mind wanders into abstraction, but my eyes search hungrily for the vibrancy of life underwater. I am at Julian Rocks, a pair of small rocky islands that lie in the Pacific Ocean, 2.5 kilometres from the shore of Byron Bay in eastern Australia. It’s a cold, wet day and the sky looks fearsome. Armed with a snorkel, mask, and flippers, I’ve taken the plunge into the ocean. This is my first snorkelling experience, and it’s meant to be a pit stop en route to the real deal at the Great Barrier Reef further north. The guide at the Byron Bay Dive Centre demonstrates a few SOS signals to our group of eight before we slide off the raft close to the rocks. The water is a notch above 21 degrees and the sudden warmth is welcoming. I am spellbound by the view underwater. Like a child following the Pied Piper of Hamlyn, I follow tiny crimson and ochre fish that seem to lure me deeper into the ocean, for a more dramatic show. A large school of green fish swim by and, adding to the palette, glittering silver bubbles emerge from the divers below. I watch in envy as they swim closer to the coral near the ocean bed. They seem to be pointing at something. And then suddenly, as I watch rays of sunlight penetrate the surface of the crystal-clear water, I see an enormous stingray swimming upwards, close to where I am. I force my head out of the water to inform my fellow snorkellers, but instead I am faced with another marvel. Staring straight at me is a green turtle. Calm and unperturbed, it looks like it will break into a smile. I want to touch it. I look back into the water again and the stingray is even closer. At this point, unable to express my excitement appropriately underwater, I find myself taking in enormous gulps of air and water while bobbing my head in and out. The diving instructor thinks I’m having an episode and rushes to save my life. I have forgotten the “I am fine, just please leave me alone” signal he taught me earlier. I get to dwell in the psychedelic underwater magic for a few more seconds before I am “rescued.” A dash of mystery adds more flavour to my experience here. The Bundjalung Aboriginals of New South Wales have various legends about these islands which are a part of the state. One story says that Julian Rocks was formed when a canoe carrying two lovers was struck by the spear thrown by one of their spouses. It split into three pieces. While the middle portion sank, the front and back floated above the water, eventually transforming into rocks. Two days later, I am sailing from the city of Cairns towards Michealmas Cay in the Great Barrier Reef.
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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | OCTOBER 2015
Diviya Mehra is Nat Geo Traveller India’s quirky Art Director. In addition to being an enthusiastic foodie, Diviya also loves exploring lesser-known markets and neighbourhoods for local arts and crafts.
The two-hour luxury catamaran ride is spent lounging under a perfect sun, chatting with fellow travellers from all over the world about the amazing marine life that we are about to encounter in technicolour HD. Happy to have got a primer at Byron Bay, I feel more confident about my snorkelling skills. Leaving behind the sandy island and the blue sky spotted with sooty terns, I step into the reef ’s shallow waters. I swim just a few inches above broken white coral and try hard not to graze myself. The water diffuses from aquamarine to deep blue and the carpet of soft coral goes from grey to sober shades of green and orange—a far cry from the colour burst I was expecting. “This can’t be it,” I tell myself as I venture deeper into the ocean. While drifting through a gulley over a giant open clam, I see a catamaran approach the shore. This is the third one since ours got here. In the last few hours, the 360x50-metre cay has become progressively more crowded. There must be over a hundred people here. No wonder the larger fish are holidaying elsewhere. My search for something a little more spectacular takes me a few hundred metres away from the shore. An hour later, feeling disappointed, I decide to head back. The turtle, the stingray, the mass of psychedelic fish that I had encountered at Byron Bay have made this experience pale in comparison. Looking back, I realise that I’d treated lesser-known Byron Bay as a mere pit stop. I was so focussed on my final destination of the Great Barrier Reef that everything else in its periphery remained blurred. I’d failed to appreciate the value of that magical experience, except in retrospect. It’s only when we shift our gaze that we find the charm in a place we never knew of before. The surprise that comes along with the discoveries in a small locale eventually makes the trip a journey of a lifetime.
PHOTO COURTESY: BYRON BAY DIVE CENTRE
Voices |
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navigate 42
local flavour Dirty rice: Louisiana’s classic Cajun dish comes clean
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experience Tickling and terrifying lessons in history at The London Dungeon
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national park Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary: Goa’s pocket-sized haven for biodiversity
Conservation efforts in Gujarat’s Gir National Park and Wildlife Sanctuary have been a roaring success.
A Matter of Pride Gir National Park reopens its gates AFTER THE MONSOON. Visit to see even larger numbers of the Asiatic lion By Neha Sumitran | PhotoGRAPH By Yashodhan Bhatia
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ir presents a rather peculiar conservation problem. The national park in Gujarat is largely considered a wildlife success story. The numbers prove this: A census conducted in May 2015 shows that the head count of the Asiatic lion in the region has risen from 411 in 2010 to 523. In fact, there are now so many lions and so little space in Gir that some scientists fear all efforts will come to naught if some of this population
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isn’t shifted (the Madhya Pradesh government has been pressing for this). Other biologists feel the big cats might not take kindly to the relocation. The jury’s out and the lions, for the time being, are staying in Gujarat. For wildlife enthusiasts, keen on observing the king of the jungle, there is never a better time to visit Gir. It is the only remaining home of the Asiatic lion that once roamed Turkey, Iran, Israel, Bangladesh, and most of India’s midriff.
national Geographic Traveller INDIA | october 2015
the vitals Gir National Park and Wildlife Sanctuary is in southern Gujarat, 327 km/6 hr southwest of Ahmedabad and 80 km/ 2.5 hr from Junagadh. It covers an area of 1,412 sq km and is inhabited by a wealth of wildlife, aside from the lion. There are three daily slots for jeep safaris (from 6-9 a.m.; 9.30 a.m.-12.30 p.m.; and 3-6 p.m.); no private vehicles are allowed. The park is open from 16 October to 15 June every year.
Navigate |
SUP ER STRUCTU R ES
The grounds of the Heydar Aliyev Center in Baku, Azerbaijan, exhibit various sculptures from gazelles to humungous, colourful snails and bunnies.
No Straight Lines A RIPPLING ROOF AND THE PLAY OF LIGHT AND CURVES MAKE THE ARTISTIC HEYDAR ALIYEV CENTER A BAKU LANDMARK BY NILOUFER VENKATRAMAN | PHOTOGRAPH BY CHIRODEEP CHAUDHURI
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hiter than white. Undulating, sweeping, fluid. Under the uninterrupted, rolling roof of the Heydar Aliyev Center in Baku, Azerbaijan, is a cultural complex of three buildings. The centre hosts exhibitions, concerts, conferences, and other activities, besides having a library and museum. Created by famous Iraqi-British architect Zaha Hadid, the building won the London Design Museum’s Design of the Year award in 2014. Outside, visitors marvel at the structure from various angles, walk up and down not-so-steep roof slopes, and take selfies. Children play in the terraced
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plazas and parks in front. On entering, I noticed how natural light pours into the building’s multiple halls, levels, and passages. The fluid wave design twirls and continues inside. A massive staircase from the ground to first floor organically blends into the walls; walls curve to become ceilings. I saw the Grace Kelly: Princess and Style Icon exhibition and numerous semi-permanent exhibits like the one of miniature models of Baku’s buildings, and individual sculptures from famous artistes. My favourite experience however was the museum display of traditional Azeri musical instruments.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | OCTOBER 2015
As I stepped in front of each displayed instrument, the sound of it playing started off gently from an unobtrusive speaker above my head. THE VITALS The Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center is close to downtown Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan. It is such a significant landmark that it is an address in itself. ID or passport required to enter, no cameras allowed though phone photography is permitted. (heydaraliyevcenter.az; entry to building and permanent exhibits 12AZN/`762; call ahead to ensure it’s open.)
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Navigate |
Tak e f i ve
Version 2.0 neglected industrial spaces get a cultural makeover By Supriya Sehgal
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very city witnesses cycles of decay and resurgence. As neighbourhoods change with time, the glitzy sheen of an urban revamp can sometimes be distasteful. But some locales manage to retain a sense of history while becoming more welcoming to visitors. Here are five inspiring urban areas that have been successfully resuscitated from their cities’ collective memories.
Frau Gerolds Garten, Zurich, Switzerland
Zurich’s former industrial district was rezoned and redeveloped in the early 2000s. A decade later, Kreis 5 is the city’s trendy epicentre, and Frau Gerolds Garten its hippest drinking haunt. Openair, unhurried and effortlessly bohemian, the space consists of a jumble of colourful shipping containers in an open lot, overlooking railway tracks. Strings of light bulbs, graffiti by local artists, and wooden tables complete the eclectic look. Bag a spot below the white canopy
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seating or on the tiered terrace and settle in for a long afternoon of drinking beer, sampling inventive cocktails, eating organic snacks, and listening to live music by local bands (www.fraugerold. ch; 043-960-3707; Mon-Sat 11 a.m.midnight and Sun noon-10 p.m.; try the Wiedikoner sausage with salad and beer). Ten Drum Cultural Village, Tainan, Taiwan
It is hard to imagine that a composition nominated for a Grammy award
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originated on the bleak outskirts of Tainan in Taiwan. Here the Ten Drum Cultural Village occupies a former sugar refinery, and is home to the percussion troupe Ten Drum Art, as well as its school. The metamorphosis of the complex, in 2005, involved turning 16 old warehouses, built under Japanese rule (between 1895 and 1945) into theatres, a café, a museum, a souvenir arcade and music practice rooms. Designer Liu Guocang gave the dilapidated buildings a new lease of life, and the Ten Drum group provides
Andrew Watson/Lonely Planet Images/getty images
Once a neighbourhood with a dodgy reputation, The Rocks in Sydney is now filled with preppy pubs like The Argyle.
London’s Clink 78 hostel (left) is in a 200-year-old courthouse building in King’s Cross; The urban-chic Frau Gerolds Garten bar (right) in Zurich’s Kreis 5 district makes the most of its industrial landscape.
Clink 78, London, United Kingdom
London is a city well-acquainted with regeneration, in which historic buildings have often found unusual, new uses. The Clink 78 hostel, located in a 200-year-old courthouse, is one such building. The historic King’s Cross area where it is located, has evolved from 19th-century industrial roots into a place of museums, shops, and eateries. Awnings of heritage buildings overlook the criss-crossing streets, sounds of familiar rock songs waft out of cosy pubs, bookshops advertise sales, and the glass windows of tattoo parlours provide a glimpse of the assorted fabric of the place. The Clink is a lively pad with a historic touch. Its Internet area recalls the erstwhile Victorian courtroom, and its guestrooms are refurbished prison cells. Some of them have heavy metal doors with hatches, barred windows,
benches and steel toilets (for decorative purposes only). Clink 78 may not be the brightest or most spacious hostel in the area, but backpackers with a taste for history will appreciate the cheeky modern adaptation of this heritage building (www.clinkhostels.com; +4420-71839400; rooms from £40/`3,950). The Rocks, Sydney, Australia
The Rocks in Sydney was the site of the city’s first European settlement, founded in 1788, adjacent to the Circular Quay of the Sydney cove. The original sandstone buildings, which inspired the name, are still the most prominent architecture on the street, with open baths and backyards. By the late 19th century, The Rocks was a murky locality dominated by a menacing gang called “Rocks Push.” It was a hub for sailors and prostitutes, and subject to the bubonic plague. Today, souvenir shops, pubs, and a weekend flea market with 100 stalls entertain visitors. An organisation called the Sydney Living Museum organises an hour-long walk around the premises of the Susannah Place Museum, which gives tourists a glimpse into the lives of working class families that once lived here. The museum is a welcome bit of culture between The Rock’s restaurants and shops (www.sydneylivingmuseums. com.au; +61-2-82392288; guided tour between 2-5 p.m.; adults AU$8/`375, children AU$4/`187).
Blue Frog, Mumbai, India
Closer home, Mumbai’s Lower Parel neighbourhood is built on the skeleton of the city’s once successful textile industry. Stagnation in production first hit cotton businesses in the 1920s, ushering in a state of despair. After World War II, with competition from Japan growing, it was difficult to keep the mills chugging along, and eventually their machines came to a halt in the late 1950s. The Great Bombay Textile Strike of the 1980s was the final nail in the coffin. The mills remained largely neglected until the late ’90s when Phoenix Mills opened up as a shopping mall and a clutch of large offices moved into the area followed by something of a cultural reimagining of the space. In 2007, Blue Frog, a state-of-theart live music venue in Mathurdas Mills Compound, opened its doors, introducing the city to world-class acoustics and numerous international acts. But more importantly, it gave India’s indie and folk artists a space to perform. Blue Frog is largely credited with transforming the city’s music scene. Within a few months, other cafés, chic boutiques, designer stores, art galleries, restaurants and nightclubs mushroomed around the neighbourhood turning Lower Parel into a hotspot for entertainment (www. bluefrog.co.in; 022-6158 6158; Tue-Sat 6 p.m.-1 a.m., Sun noon-1 a.m.).
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roberto herrett/alamy/indiapicture (building), Supriya Sehgal (café)
its beating heart. The serenity of the complex and its museum, and a fun orientation session with a drum lead up to an energetic performance by the troupe. For about half an hour twice a day, eight performers fill the stage with the sounds of drums, bells, and gongs. Sporadic waterworks add some visual magic to the performance (www. ten-hsieh.com.tw; 886-6-2662225; MonSun 9 a.m.-5p.m.; daily performance 10:30-11 a.m., 3-3:30 p.m.; 399 Taiwan dollar/`4,084 per person).
t he sC I E N C E I SSUE SSU E
A clutch of Titanosaurus eggs is one of many prized fossils found in Gujarat. Scientists estimate that at least six different dinosaur species roamed the area that is now India.
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In Focus |
â– Gujarat
Set in
Stone
Encyclopaedia Britannica/UIG/ Universal Images Group/getty images
On the quest for dinosaurs in the arid grasslands of Gujarat By Rumela Basu
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stared
Craning my neck upwards to get a glimpse of where they came from, I see a fibreglass model of a mama brontosaur, the creature the fossilised eggs probably belonged to. The herbivorous reptile with a long sweeping neck probably looked down on most of its counterparts when it roamed our planet eons ago. I am stupefied: I’d never imagined I would encounter my first dinosaur in Gujarat. I am at the Dinosaur and Fossil Section of Indroda Nature Park in Gandhinagar or, as I like to think of it, a wormhole into the past. The park has three other parts. There’s a botanical garden with a selection of medicinal herbs, a zoo where visitors can see crocodiles, sambar, and birds like the sarus crane, and an area dedicated to sea mammals that has a skeleton of an adult blue whale. However, I am here to see creatures that are even bigger.
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The dinosaur section of the park has fossils from a site in the Gujarati village of Raiyoli, about 90 minutes from Gandhinagar. They were discovered by the Geological Survey of India (GSI) in 1981, creating a stir among India’s palaeontologists. Some scientists believe that it is among the largest fossilised dinosaur hatcheries in the world. Once the specimens were studied and documented, some of the finds from Raiyoli were brought to Indroda to be gawked at by visitors like me. Walking around the tree-filled park with Kusum Suthar, my spunky guide, I feel like I have gained a little knowledge of palaeontology. Most of the dinosaur fossils in the world, Kusum tells me, belong to the Jurassic and Cretaceous periods, which are the middle and waning eras of the dinosaur species’ habitation on Earth. The fossils found in Gujarat—the only known
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at the round, grey eggs sticking out of the slab of rock in front of me. They were about the size of musk melons, rough and chipped. Out of context, they looked like a supersized concrete sculpture of a carton of eggs. Except that this dozen was laid at least 65 million years ago, making them much older than the first human beings to walk the Earth.
■ GUJARAT Gujarat Rajasaurus narmadensis, or “the regal dinosaur of Narmada”, was discovered only in the early 2000s by reconstructing skull bones excavated in the 1980s. India’s endemic dinosaur species is said to be related to the horned theropods that roamed present-day Madagascar and South Africa.
D tr in iv o ia
dinosaur excavation site in India—belong to the Cretaceous period, which ended 65 million years ago. By comparison, the first Homo sapiens appeared only about 200,000 years ago. Earlier that morning we had walked into a squat building near the park’s entrance, where over 100 fossils are sealed in dusty glass cases. I saw ammonites, imprints of leaves, and patterns that look like oyster-shell impressions. I was more interested in the specimens that held evidence of prehistoric animal life, like the hunk of rock with the imprint of turtle skin. Turtles, it turns out, are among a few creatures that still walk the Earth, that trace their lineage back some 200 million years. The room didn’t look impressive, but each exhibit I saw helped piece together the mental picture of what our planet might have looked like eons ago. Kusum pointed to a spiky-looking indent on a piece of pale, pink rock: allegedly an impression of a squid-like marine animal. Or perhaps it was
a shelled marine animal with or without tentacles. I started to get the feeling that being a palaeontologist involved a lot of educated guesswork. We were soon joined by Rayjibhai Rathod, one of the people in charge of the fossil park and part of the GSI team that worked on the excavation site in Raiyoli. Rayjibhai was shy but obviously passionate about his work. He showed me one of the park’s most prized exhibits, a glass case with football-sized hunks of stone caked with dry mud. Closer inspection revealed a barely-there eggshell pattern on the exterior. “Most dinosaur eggs are round, october 2015 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA
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Todd Marshall
Tyrannosaurus rex had disproportionally small forelimbs and was dependent on its muscular hindlimbs and tail for balance. This made it difficult for the predator to get up if it fell down. Apparently T-rex could starve to death if it fell over and was unable to get upright again.
In Focus |
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you know”, he said, “unlike bird eggs that are oval, or well, eggshaped.” I asked him which species of dinosaur these belonged to. “We don’t know for sure,” he confessed, “though we have established that long-necked, four-legged dinosaurs like the Brontosaurus have round eggs, while theropods (creatures that walked on two limbs) laid oval eggs.”
Among the fossils discovered in Gujarat in the 1980s, was that of the Sanajeh indicus. Initially thought to be remains of hatchling dinosaurs, it was confirmed in 2001, that the fossil was actually that of a snake curled around a dinosaur nest, apparently waiting to devour the new hatchlings.
Despite the fact that so many fossils are yet to be classified, they still provide valuable information about what Earth looked like so many million years ago. The marine fossils for instance, are evidence that water bodies once flowed through this part of Gujarat, which is now largely arid. The wood fossils show that trees with trunks as large as boulders once thrived here. Looking closely at one such piece, I noticed a chunk of shiny black charcoal nestled between slabs of rock.
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The open areas of Indroda’s fossil and dinosaur section have life-sized fibreglass models of all the dinosaurs found in this region, made to scale according to the GSI’s findings. Thanks to quirks in their production and their al fresco location, each seems to have a personality. Deinonychus or “Terrible Claw”— named after the curved claws on its hind appendages—seems to have a wide smile pasted on its face. Megalosaur, the first species to be classified as a dinosaur, looks like a sneaky, overgrown gecko, and the famously ferocious Tyrannosaurus rex has, oddly enough, taken on the role of protector. The fierce predator’s model has a little nest in its jaws, thanks to an industrious bird that’s decided it is a safe place for her young ones. A few steps away from T-rex is a towering brontosaur with the clutch of eggs at its feet. This is where I linger longest. As I continue to examine the fossilised eggs, it strikes me that each of these giants (and many more) had once roamed the same piece of the planet that I now inhabit. Bustling Ahmedabad was once the territory of T-rex. Gandhinagar, where I was all of yesterday, was once home to brontosaur babies. It was a mindboggling thought. An amused Rayjibhai tells me to shift my attention to a few large rocks on the floor. One of them has peculiar pinkishpurple circular patches, while another has a kidney-shaped maroon piece embedded within. The coloured markings are dinosaur fossils. Armed with this information, I begin to examine each of the rocks, scrutinising the murky markings for any semblance of bone structure. Many, oddly enough, remind me of bony chicken drumsticks, but one rock has a familiar shape
sam panthaky\stringer\afp\getty images (DINOSAUR PARK)
Triceratops fossils are among the dinosaur species found in India. They had a 4 to 5-foot-wide head including a bony frill and three large horns.
â– Gujarat
RUMELA BASU
The life-size, fibreglass models of dinosaurs (bottom right) at Indroda Dinosaur and Fossil Park bring alive the surrounding fossilised remains; Some of the more striking specimens excavated at Raiyoli, a two-hour drive from the park, include pink-blue swatches of fossilised dinosaur skin (top) and fragments of limb bones (bottom left).
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Journeys |
P hoto Essay
The Glow of
vietnam
Luxury resort Amanoi, located in a nature conservation area, enjoys a prime view along a stretch of Vietnam’s pristine coastline northeast of Saigon.
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â– v ietn am
Out of the shadows and into the now, at light speed By A n d r e w L a m | P h oto g r a p h s by Cat h e r i n e K a r n ow
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P hoto Essay
Bebe Trinh, Lys Nguyen, and Jap Hoang, relatives who grew up in Montreal, opened Saigon’s trendsetting L’Usine café in 2010 in a former ballroom.
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■ v ie tn am
In central Vietnam, girls dig for clams.
Twenty years ago, i stepped
ONTO A hanoi street and into darkness. The electricity was out, and clouds obscured the moonlight. The faint smell of incense wafted in the air, and I saw shadows flitting about and red dots spinning in circles on the streets. My eyes adjusted: Local bicyclists had tied burning joss sticks onto their bikes’ spokes as a way to avoid one another. The heart of Vietnam had turned into a phantasmagorical temple, full of ghosts. That Hanoi, that city shrouded in incense and shadows, is but a distant memory. Now neon lights up the night. Forty years after war’s end and the country’s reunification and political rapprochement with the West, Vietnam’s population has more than doubled. Golf courses are replacing rice paddies. New cities have sprouted where only thatched-roof hamlets squatted, and high rises tower in once low-key metropolises like Hanoi, Da Nang, and Ho Chi Minh City. Even long-time residents fail to recognise their own city when they venture downtown. And the place once feared by drafted American GIs has become a bucket-list destination for backpackers, beach lovers, and yes, veterans on nostalgia tours. They come to see moun-
tains veiled in morning fog and sand dunes glittering under tropical sunlight. They come to taste the fragrant cuisine and to enjoy the sultry nightlife. They come to swim in the sparkling sea and to shop for colourful textiles. I left Vietnam as a child when communist tanks rolled into Saigon and ignominiously ended the Vietnam War for Americans. That was on April 28, 1975. My family fled, among the first wave of refugees. I was 11 years old. I grew up and became an American citizen and a writer and journalist. But I have never forgotten Vietnam, and have returned many times to witness my native land emerge from behind the bamboo curtain. If stories of bicycles in dark nights, of bent backs and long lines for food rations, formed the bulk of the narrative I told a quarter of a century ago, the story I tell now is an entirely different one— that of a country steeped in modernity, and a society integrating with global culture and economy at breakneck speed. In Hanoi, the rusty bicycles have long been replaced with Honda motorcycles. The old quarter, with its narrow streets october 2015 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA
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A traditional fishing junk completes a timeless scene on Ha Long Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage site scattered with some 1,600 islands and islets.
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So much has changed, yet my homeland remains an astonishing beauty, a country shaped by mountains and rivers and the eternal sea lapping at her shores october 2015 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA
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get going 130
Participants on the EdgeWalk on Toronto’s CN Tower are buffeted by strong winds. Being harnessed to an overhead rail by a rope that can support two trucks provides little comfort.
On the Edge Dizzying views of Toronto from a narrow ledge atop the CN Tower | by Kareena Gianani 128
national Geographic Traveller INDIA | october 2015
volunteering Releasing baby turtles into the sea at Costa Rica’s Osa Peninsula
M
y stomach clenches as the glass elevator rapidly climbs 116 storeys up Toronto’s CN Tower. Within seconds we’re near the top of the world’s third-tallest tower and Toronto’s mighty skyscrapers look like detailed miniatures far below. When the elevator stops, the uneasy feeling in my belly only increases; I’m nervous about the adventure I’ve signed up for. There are six of us dressed in red jumpsuits, bracing ourselves for the EdgeWalk. We’re going to be walking on a narrow ledge that wraps around a circular pod located 1,168 feet up the city’s famous observation and communications tower. It’s a small bulge located roughly two thirds of the way up this 1,815-foot-tall needlelike structure. In my head, the highlights of the activity brochure run on loop, in the jaunty voice of our guide Katy: “World’s highest hands-free walk! No handrails!” My heart gives a lurch, ready to burst from the harness I’ve worn over my jumpsuit. But it is too late. As soon as we exit the elevator, a man attaches two thick ropes to the harness, tugging to check they are fastened properly. He coolly answers our queries about their sturdiness (“They can take the weight of two loaded trucks. No, you will not die”). Soon, too soon, the doors of the room open, seemingly into the sky. I realise that the others have quietly moved behind me, making me the group’s reluctant leader who will have to try everything first. Oblivious to my fear, Katy is bouncing on the balls of her feet as she walks, her voice quavering in the strong wind. “You’re going to have the time of your life,” she promises. Keeping a safe distance from the edge of the ledge, and trusting the rope hooked to me since there are no handrails, I take a peek
photo courtesy: brand canada library
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adventure Walking the edge atop Toronto’s CN Tower
Intensity The EdgeWalk is not physically strenuous, but it is mentally challenging and scary
Easy
Moderate
demanding
below. From this height, Toronto looks like an elaborate, crisscrossing map of itself. Glass skyscrapers that shot up vertiginously from the ground look like Lego bricks. For the first time ever, I see an airplane at eye level for a few seconds before it lands at Billy Bishop airport on the nearby Toronto Islands. This group of islands on Lake Ontario look like a cluster of puny patches. The lake’s blue water gleams in the sun and boats snoozing around its docks look like plastic playthings. I can’t believe that an hour ago, I was ambling through the same city’s markets and streets, losing and finding my way. From here, I can chart them all. I know I must look goofy: flyaway hair, clutching the rope around my waist like it’s an umbilical cord, and grinning uncontrollably. I feel like I am airborne. Katy encourages us to step to the edge and the man at the end of our line volunteers. He instinctively clasps the cable harder, and inches forward with baby steps. He makes it look easy, and most of us follow suit. While we’re crouched out there, seeking distraction in the view and huddling together for comfort, Katy prances about without a care. Pointing a terrifying finger at me, she says it is time for the real thing. Squatting at the edge, I face the tower and lean back slowly, until I hang beyond the edge as if about to free-fall. My group whoops and screams, and my fear vanishes as I thrill in the curious sensation of weightlessness. Mastering my fear, I try it again, this time leaning forward, surveying the city as my toes teeter over the edge of the platform. The rush of adrenaline is uninterrupted as I circum-
atlas
Toronto, Canada
CANADA U.S.A.
Toronto
ì
Couples can get married on the EdgeWalk and invite up to eight guests. The wedding attire is a white jumpsuit for the bride, pink ones for the bridesmaids, and tuxedos for the men.
navigate the pod for the next 20 minutes, trying to spot landmarks. I see the historic Fairmont Royal York in the northeast. When it was built in 1929, this 28-storey was the tallest building in the British Empire. Towards the end of the walk, while Katy is guiding another participant, I try to hang over the edge again and lose my balance. I go flying around a stretch of the deck, arms flailing, horror gripping my gut. I am mute with fright until Katy straightens me up. But—and this is unexpected—the moment I am back on my feet, the fear evaporates. I move away from the group and quietly inch towards the edge for one last view. In that moment of solitude, I hear the wind lashing against the fluted metal dome, emitting a haunting musical sound. There is an infinity stretching beneath my feet and I try to etch its lines in my memory.
The Vitals The EdgeWalk is a 1.5-hour-long experience, which includes preparation, a safety briefing, and about 30 minutes of walking time on the ledge of CN Tower. It is open daily from April to November, except days of extreme weather conditions (www.edgewalkcntower.ca; open 9 a.m.-6.30 p.m daily, and until 10 p.m. on Saturday; CAD195/`9,850 per person, plus taxes). The fee includes a keepsake video, photographs, access to the tower’s Glass Floor, SkyPod, and other attractions. Participants must weigh between 34 and 140 kilos and be in good physical health to participate. Pregnant women, people suffering from heart conditions or vertigo are not allowed on the EdgeWalk. october 2015 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA
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photo courtesy: EdgeWalk at The CN Tower (participants), paul a. souders/encyclopedia/corbis/imagelibrary (tower)
The CN tower (top and bottom) was built by the Canadian National Railways a s a telecommunications hub in 1976. It was the world’s tallest tower for 34 years until the Canton Tower came up in China in 2010.
short breaks 132
from delhi Seeking calm and bliss at Uttarakhand’s Bhimtal
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stay Glamping near Bandhavgarh with a tiger on the prowl
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stay In Mumbai, a chic hotel in a colonial neighbourhood
Lake of Leisure Restful Bhimtal is the centrepiece of Uttarakhand’s lake district | By Ambika Gupta
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The town of Bhimtal, set on the slopes around the lake, is a stark contrast to touristy Nainital nearby. Bhimtal’s novelty lies in its utter and complete lack of a USP. It doesn’t have the colonial vestiges of Nainital nor the resort hotels typical of popular hill stations. It was never a major centre of trade and there’s no prominent religious shrine either. Instead, Bhimtal has in abundance an honest, straightforward charm that creeps up on visitors like the mountain breeze that ruffles their hair. The town is fairly ordinary, but with a stunning lake at its centre, who needs extra trimmings?
EXPLORE Wake up to the lake
The mountains demand that you wake early. And in Bhimtal, the crisp morning air, chirping birds, and
Usually a vivid sea-green, the jacarandafringed Bhimtal lake changes colour with the weather and season.
ip-black/indiapicture
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himtal is the largest among a cluster of freshwater lakes huddled in the mountains of Uttarakhand’s Kumaon district. The region’s landscape of waterbodies, including Sattal, Naukuchiatal, and well-known Nainital, set in thick forests and sweeping valleys, is no less picturesque than England’s famous Lake District. When I visited in the month of June, Bhimtal was fringed with lavender jacaranda trees in full bloom. Fenced by a cheerful blue railing, its glassy surface uncluttered by boats, the lake changes colour with the season and time of day. On a clear summer morning, when puffy white clouds sail across a deep blue sky, Bhimtal is sea-green. On moonless nights it is a cloak of inky black velvet. Under a full moon the velvet surface ripples with streaks of silver. When storm clouds gather, it turns a brooding grey, and when they burst, strong winds churn the water into a wild frenzy.
gentle sunshine are complemented by the serenity of the big, beautiful lake. Ducklings bob in the water following their mother as they learn to swim around the lake. Boys in uniform linger on their way to school, some even take flying leaps into the water and I wonder if they’re playing truant. The lake is rich with aquatic life, and I whiled away hours watching fish dart around. Hotels can organise fishing equipment and a license (angling is prohibited during breeding season, so check in advance; licences cost `50 per day, and can be obtained from the Fisheries Department, near the police station on Bhimtal Bypass Road, at the lake’s north bank). Or visitors can rent a colourful canoe or paddleboat for a slow ride (`300 for canoe, `350 for paddleboat for 30 min). The lake has a tiny forested island accessible only by boat, with an aquarium (entry `60 for adults, `30 for kids). There’s very little traffic on the road that winds around the lake, making it perfect for an evening stroll with a shawl wrapped around. I shivered in delight as the cool evening breeze skimmed over the water and touched me. At one end of the lake is the bright, whitewashed Bhimtal Dhat or dam with terraced flower gardens on its inside walls. Walk beside the dam and then stroll down to the 17th-century temple of the local deity Bhimeshwar Mahadev nearby (open 5 a.m.7 p.m.). According to legend, when Bhim the mighty warrior from the Mahabharata felt thirsty, he cracked the earth with a blow from his mace, forming the lake that was named after him. The area’s calm and beauty create a setting in which imagination takes wing and appropriately, the Hesse Centre in town offers residencies to artists and writers (www.facebook.com/HesseCentre).
4+
Delhi
300 Km
Bhimtal
D ay s
Calm Bhimtal turns greybrown in the monsoon. It hosts a thriving ecosystem of fish, migratory ducks, and geese (top left); Sattal, on the other hand, is a hub of activity. Renting a canoe (top right) is a fun way to explore the lake.
Explosion of colour
While the landscape is painted in deep, cool shades, it is also dotted with bright birds and butterflies. Gardens and trees are flush with blossoms and meadows carpeted with jolly wildflowers. The Bollywood film Koi Mil Gaya was shot here and locals can point you to a cottage high up on the hill where the hero, played by Hrithik Roshan, kept the alien Jaadu in hiding. Bhimtal’s climate is ideal for floriculture. On its outskirts, on the road to Sattal, there are greenhouses and fields of scarlet roses, exotic lilies, and shaded hydrangeas nodding their heads in neat rows. It’s no surprise then that Bhimtal attracts so many butterflies. The town’s Butterfly Research Centre displays a staggering variety of these insects, with dazzling designs on their wings (drive 3 km uphill to the museum on June Estate road, just before the bridge on the lake’s northwest bank; 05942-247043; open Mon-Fri 9 a.m.5 p.m., entry `100 per person). At Bhimtal’s small Dhat Market, visitors can purchase locally produced wooden handicrafts and hand-woven shawls. The Himjoli outlet on Mehragaon road stocks organic food and cosmetic products made from local herbs and ingredients like Himalayan nettle, cedar, and apricot (94129 63640; try the ginger lily night cream, apricot oil, and cedar lip balm; between `100-500). Take home the locally grown bhat dal which is said to be good for the liver, and madua atta or finger millet flour, both available at grocery stores (bhat `80-90/kg; flour `20-30/kg). Seven Lakes
Sattal, a series of seven interconnected lakes, is located at a 9 km/15-minute drive from Bhimtal. The october 2015 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA
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arjun kale (ducks), ambika gupta (canoe)
relaxing Holiday
f ro m d e l hi
1-kilometre easy hike to Sattal, through the hills, is a popular excursion. Start at the June Estate road on Bhimtal’s northwest bank. The dirt road clambers up the hillside and winds past forests of gnarly oak, small mountain pools, and the lovely Fredy’s Bungalow. The colonial-era house that belonged to a German is now run as a heritage retreat. Catch your breath and have some tea while marvelling at the private collection of butterflies, quaint antiques, and a library stocked with comic book versions of Enid Blyton’s Famous Five series. If you drive to Sattal, stop at St. John’s Church, 7 kilometres from Bhimtal. The beautiful church with a green roof, surrounded by tall deodars, is part of the Christian Ashram established by Methodist evangelist E. Stanley Jones in 1930. Unlike the calm of Bhimtal, in Sattal you’ll encounter scores of tourists enjoying soft adventure sports like kayaking, zip lining, and zorbing. If you prefer the quiet, find a restful spot on the lakeshore. There are plenty of waterfront stalls where you can get a hot snack for a little picnic. Rise and shrine
Jageshwar, 95 km/3 hours northeast of Bhimtal, is buried deep in Kumaon’s forests and conjures up im-
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The stone temples of Jageshwar (left) are hidden in deodar thickets, and inscribed with ancient epigraphs in Sanskrit and Brahmi; Many kinds of fruit trees and flowers like hydrangea (top right) thrive in Bhimtal’s cool weather and clean air, attracting butterflies; St. John’s Church (bottom), en route to Sattal, is part of Christian Ashram, which combines the Christian faith with a Hindu ashram way of life.
ages of sages meditating in remote spots amidst untamed nature. The road to Jageshwar goes through oak and deodar thickets. Equally sturdy and austere, rising from the forest floor like mounds of carved earth, are the stone temples of Jageshwar Dham that date between the eighth and 18th centuries. You’ll find them scattered along the way, but in the surprisingly small main complex at Jageshwar, there are 124 Shiva temples. There is a temple dedicated to Bal Jageshwar (Shiva as a child) and one to Vridh Jageshwar (Shiva in his old age). Hindus also believe Jageshwar is the site of Nagesh, the eighth out of 12 mythological shivlingas installed by Vishnu. The museum of this tiny temple town houses rare carved idols from the area. A ninth-century idol of the popular local king, Pona Raja, that was stolen in an infamous heist and later recovered, is on display behind lock and key (open 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; entry free; closed on Friday). A slightly longer route to Jageshwar via Almora (100 km) goes via the temple of Golu Devta. This Kumaoni god, believed to be a champion of justice, is locally revered, and you’ll often find the slogan “Jai Golu Devta” emblazoned on taxis and cars. People deposit legal documents and affidavits in the temple in the hope of securing speedy justice. The temple is
aruna bhat/alamy/indiapicture (temple), ambika gupta (flowers), rishad sam mehta (church)
Short Breaks |
■ u ttarak han d strung with hundreds of bells in all sizes offered by devotees; the size of the bell is supposedly proportionate to the wish they’ve made.
N
Himjoli Outlet
STAY Fredy’s Bungalow is a colonial cottage on a
quiet, wooded hillside. Ringed with deodar and cypress trees and crammed with colonial curiosities, it has a delicious vintage flavour. This bungalow is the perfect place to curl up with a book from the collection in its wood-panelled library (98187 05508; 61 June Estate; info@itmenaanlodges.com; doubles from `6,053). Lake Retreat commands a stunning vista of Bhimtal
from its sprawling, shaded deck overlooking the lake’s southern end. Soak in the view while feasting on stuffed parathas at this family-run hotel, while Jhumroo, the fluffy resident dog, warms your feet (94567 29408, 94115 89568; Mandir Marg; lakeretreatbhimtal@ yahoo.co.in; doubles from `3,150). Fishermen’s Lodge is also located on the lake’s southern bank, and its large bay windows offer scenic lookouts. The tastefully decorated, cheerful homestay brings back sunny memories of childhood holidays (94111 07854; Mandir Marg; www.thefishermenslodge. com; doubles from `8,000, including meals). Emerald Trail is about 9 kilometres from Bhimtal, the only drawback of this otherwise wonderful farmstay high in the hills, surrounded by rhododendrons. The location makes it a paragliding hub, but there are lots of other activities to keep children and pets entertained (98339 49954, 78300 25532; Jungaliya Gaon; www.emeraldtrail.in; doubles from `4,000).
Butterfly Museum
Bhimtal Lake
Sattal Lake
JAGESHWAR
Victoria Dam
Bhimeshwar Temple
Hesse Centre
NAINITAL
BHIMTAL
Naukuchiatal
Unique Experience Just beyond the north end of Bhimtal (2.5 km/15-min drive) is the Museum of Folk Culture and Rock Art (Lok Sanskriti Sangrahalaya, opp YMCA, on the Bhowali-Bhimtal-Haldwani Road). The erudite yet unassuming curator, Dr. Yashodhar Mathpal, is a recipient of the Padma Shri award for his contribution to the study of rock painting, and has authored several books on the subject. The museum houses a remarkable collection of animal and plant fossils from the Higher Himalayas. Fascinating rock art is on display and reproductions of Stone Age paintings can be purchased as souvenirs (10 a.m.-5 p.m.; 94120 94613, 97563 68039; 05942-47100; entry adult `50, child `30).
orientation
Bhimtal is located in Uttarakhand’s Nainital district, 22 km/50 min southeast of Nainital and 300 km/7.5 hr northeast of Delhi
Getting there
Air The closest airport is Pant Nagar Airport (50 km/1.5 hr), which has daily Air India flights from Delhi. Taxis charge `1,800-2,500. Rail The closest railway station is at Kathgodam (22 km/45 min from Bhimtal) which is connected with Delhi by a daily Shatabdi and other trains. There are frequent buses from Kathgodam to Bhimtal throughout the day. Taxis charge `1,200-2,000. Road Daily buses from Delhi’s ISBT Anand Vihar leave for Haldwani (29 km/1 hr from Bhimtal). From Haldwani, taxis to Bhimtal cost `1,200-2,000. Taxis on a sharing basis ply regularly and charge `100 per person.
getting around
Bhimtal is a great place for leisurely walks and easy hikes, so carry a pair of sturdy shoes. For excursions, taxis are available through hotels and homestays.
seasons
During summer (Mar-May), the temperature in Bhimtal does not go beyond 30°C. Days are warm but evenings remain cool. During the monsoon (Jun-Sep), the weather is cool (13-26°C) and the hillsides sprout gorgeous shades of green, though mountain trails may become slippery. Winter (Oct-Feb) is chilly with the temperature sometimes plummeting to -3°C. october 2015 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA
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aAshna jhaveri (map)
the guide