SalonFocus July-Aug 2012

THE ESSENTIAL MAGAZINE FOR SALON OWNERS

Fears EU safety laws could cost millions Salons urged to rethink chair renting Why barbering is booming Find out how you can join Britain’s Best

JULY/AUGUST 2012 | £3.50

WAVELENGTH

Chair renting will have to change,

or have change forced upon it

is: don’t panic but do recognise chair renting is changing, Unlike chancellor George Osborne’s retreats over the soand perhaps needs to change, fast. called “pasty tax” and imposing VAT on static caravans, the Don’t panic, too, is the message for salons when it comes tax changes due to arrive from October on chair renting to bonkers European health and safety laws, as we report on are very much a fait accompli and, in many respects, long page five. The fact the Health and Safety Executive – not overdue. I’m not a tax expert and certainly don’t claim to understand all the complicated nuances of chair renting, VAT known for sabre rattling or scaremongering on Europe – has estimated the proposals by EU Coiffure and UNI Europa and taxation but, to me, there are a number of central issues Hair & Beauty could cost the UK industry as much as £75m here for salon owners, whether they chair rent or not. a year is deeply worrying. But it also has to be recognised As secretary general Eileen Lawson has highlighted European politics progresses at a leisurely pace and there on page six, what the chancellor and HM Revenue & are lots of opportunities along the way for common sense Customs have done is tidy up some of the anomalies that to be restored. So salons shouldn’t be have existed around chair renting since complacent but, equally, don’t imagine 2008. More pertinently, they are using tax “The coming months the sky is going to fall quite yet. instruments to send a signal to the sector This edition of SalonFocus couldn’t, that the way some hairdressers view chair will, in all likelihood, of course, pass without mention of the renting needs to change. It is fine, and in to the industry of NHF companion of fact very much to be encouraged, they are see tax offices taking loss honour Vidal Sassoon. What struck me saying, for hairdressers to use chair renting as a business model, as a tool to expand a much closer interest most from the outpouring from members after his death in May was less the your business laterally and maximise the in the affairs of inspirational influence they all recognised potential of your salon premises, a use of he had had on hairdressing – that’s really chair renting the NHF, incidentally, has long chair renting salons a given – and more the authority and supported. What’s not fine, and what is affection with which Federation members going to have to change now as a mindset to ensure they are – members who had known him, worked or approach, is simply seeing or using chair with him, got their first break through renting as a way of minimising or, worse, sticking to the letter him, even had their careers saved by actively avoiding tax. of the law” him – were able to remember him (see This is not, I appreciate, an easy News, page 11 and Tribute, page 34). The argument to be making in a desperately Federation truly is a body that knows – tough economic climate. We’ve had letters and can speak for – hairdressing like no other. in from salons pointing out that if their chair renter is Finally, it’ll have happened by the time you read this forced to pay VAT, they’ll simply leave and but wish us luck (again) in the Trade Association Forum the salon will have no option but to shut.

Conversely, we’ve had letters arguing that Best Practice Awards (News, page nine). SalonFocus has been shortlisted to defend its title this year, which is salons which use chair renting and clever a great achievement and vindication once again of the accounting artificially to reduce their tax commitment the Federation makes to high-quality, noliability make it impossible for everyone nonsense journalism. But the fact the Federation has also else to compete on a fair basis. been shortlisted in two other categories, “Publication of But there’s a further point here that the Year” for its annual report and “Membership Pack of should concern salons, again whether the Year”, is equally important. It illustrates the credibility chair renters or not. What tends to and importance of hairdressing as an industry and, just as happen once HMRC has closed a much, the value you get from membership of the National loophole? Tax officials and inspectors, Hairdressers’ Federation. Whether we win or not that’ll understandably, sit up, rub their hands always be something to shout about. and start to take notice. It may not go so far as trying specifically to “catch out” salons – though the cynic in me says don’t rule that out – but the coming months will, in all likelihood, see tax offices taking a much closer interest in the affairs of chair renting salons to ensure they are sticking to the letter of the law. So the message for salons

www.nhf.info

JULY/AUGUST 2012 SALONFOCUS PAGE 3

CONTENTS OUR CONTRIBUTORS

News

10 11 13

EU safety rules could cost £75m, warns HSE Chair renting must stop being a tax dodge Teachers talk down hairdressing, admits schools’ inspector Government told no-fault compensation ‘must be affordable’ MP pledges to be a ‘voice’ for NHF Members remember, and salute, Vidal Sassoon Salons slam ‘woolly’ response to Portas Review

Features

05 06 08 09

28-29 30 31

Wedding wows – glamour bridal hair is back Musical roots – motivational mayhem at summer festivals Men’s wealth – barbering is stepping out Water wiser – why water efficiency matters Chemical reaction – protecting your health

Britain’s Best

Inspired

26 27

15-18 20-22

The countdown has started – get involved Studio 54 – the new combined collection from NHF Inspire and Barbers’ Elite

Beauty

Regulars

12 13 03 09 11 14 23-24 32 33 34

Hairdressing icon Beverly C has twice won the British Hairdresser of the Year Award and she was the first female hairdresser to be awarded an MBE. She is a brand ambassador for Goldwell and BaByliss, and is a regular face on TV and in the press

Alan Findlay is owner of Rebel Rebel in Glasgow and has more than 20 years experience as a barber, having qualified from Anne Rogers in Wishaw in 1990.

In 2011 he was a regional finalist in The L’Oréal Professionnel Colour Trophy Men’s Image Award. He is also a member of the NHF’s new barbering team, Barbers’ Elite

Gillian Dowling works for Croner as employment technical consultant Aaron Mohamed and his wife Pauline have run Genesis World of Hair and Beauty in St Ives, Cambridgeshire, for the past 19 years

Maeve O’Hara is a consultant for Sypol, provider of the NHF’s Salon Sorted health and safety tool

John Parker is director of Glasgow-based salon chain Rainbow Room International, which for the past six years has styled the stars at Scotland’s biggest music festival, T in the Park

PAGE 4 SALONFOCUS JULY/AUGUST 2012

PUBLISHER Eileen Lawson BSc FCIS FRSA e: eileen.lawson@nhf.info EDITOR Nic Paton e: sfeditor@salonfocus.co.uk EDITORIAL CONSULTANT Andrew Don e: sfeditor@salonfocus.co.uk EVENTS Tina Beaumont t: 0845 345 6500 e: tina.beaumont@nhf.info AD SALES Mainline Media Ltd The Barn, Oakley Hay Lodge Business Park, Great Oakley, Northants NN18 9AS t: +44 (0) 1536 747333 f: +44 (0) 1536 746565 w: www.mainlinemedia.co.uk

Daniel Caceres is a member of the Trevor Sorbie Artistic Team and a long hair, hair-up and bridal hair specialist. He contributed to Trevor’s The Bridal Hair Book as well as a bridal video with Caryn Franklin and has worked with both Trevor and Angelo Seminara on shows and stage work overseas

Advertising Sales Manager Tricia McDougall e: tricia.mcdougall@mainlinemedia. co.uk Advertising Production Manager Craig Barber e: craig.barber@mainlinemedia.co.uk DESIGN & PRODUCTION Matrix Print Consultants Ltd t: 01536 527297 e: martin@matrixprint.com While every care is taken in compiling this issue of SalonFocus including manuscripts and photographs submitted, we accept no responsibility for any losses or damage, whatever the cause. All information and prices contained in advertisements are accepted by the publishers in good faith as being correct at the time of going to press. Neither the advertisers nor the publishers accept any responsibility for any variations affecting price variations or availability after the publication has gone to press. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the permission of the publisher, to whom application must first be made. The views expressed by contributors to SalonFocus are not necessarily those of the NHF, the publisher or its editor. © 2011 The National Hairdressers’ Federation.

Material for consideration in this section of the magazine should be submitted on CDROM as high resolution jpeg or tiff files to The Editor, SalonFocus. Submissions should be made on the understanding that the National Hairdressers’ Federation has the right to use the material in any part of the magazine and any of its other publications, promotions or website, free from any copyright restrictions, or appearance fees other than the issue of artistic and photographic credits where applicable.

Please include salon name, photographer & stylist.

News – male grooming defies retail gloom Beauty Spots – tanning salons breaking the law Wavelength – Chair renting must change, or have change forced upon it HairClips – Hairdresser of the Year nominees Movers and Groovers – supporting Liberia Cutting Brief – your legal problems solved Federation Focus – Cardiff conference preview Column – Beverly C on the value of mentoring Events – key dates for your diary Tribute – the Vidal we knew

SALONFOCUS IS PUBLISHED BY: National Hairdressers’ Federation, One Abbey Court, Fraser Road, Priory Business Park, Bedford MK44 3WH t: 0845 345 6500 t: 01234 831965 f: 01234 838875 e: sfenquiries@salonfocus.co.uk w: www.nhf.info

Front cover Hair: NHF Inspire and Barbers’ Elite art teams Photography: Desmond Murray Sylist: Tawfi Khoury Make-up: Jo Sugar Britain’s Best Concept design by TwoTone Design Ltd

NEWS

EU safety rules could cost salons as much as £75m, warns HSE Exclusive

This meant there was little evidence Proposed new European health and to support a complete ban and safety rules could cost hairdressing salons therefore such a move was considered as much as £75m a year, vastly more than by the government “as disproportionate”, previously feared, according to estimates it argued. from the Health and Safety Executive.

“The agreement contains But the NHF is warning salon owners unnecessary duplication of precautions. not to panic, because there is still no For example, workplaces must not only guarantee the proposals will become have non-slip flooring but also the law and, even if they do, to what extent employees must wear non-slip footwear. they will be imposed on salons by the UK Employees must not only remove government. jewellery to prevent trapping chemicals The UK’s health and safety watchdog underneath it, but also wear gloves,” the has carried out an initial economic executive pointed out. “impact assessment” on the proposals by All in all, the requirements had the EU Coiffure, a group of European salon potential to mean higher start-up costs bosses, and UNI Europa Hair & Beauty, for entrepreneurs and less incentive for the European trade union for hairdressers. hairdressers to take on extra employees, These proposals, which were formally which in turn “would therefore limit agreed in April, have recommended growth in the sector”, it added. that hairdressers be prevented from Employment minister Chris Grayling wearing high heels, for fear of slips and is also strongly opposed to the proposals. trips causing injuries, and that rings or COLOURING: USE OF GLOVES IS A KEY ISSUE He said: “When will the EU finally bracelets be banned because of their understand that these kind of stupid rules potential to be unsafe. just cost jobs? Right now we should be They have also proposed all salon creating jobs, not killing them. This kind of stupidity has to stop. furniture should be “ergonomic”, that salon workers should wear We will do everything we can to work with other countries to elbow-length gloves when washing hair and that there should block the possibility of a directive.” be limits on their hours so as to allow staff to take proper breaks However, his comments have highlighted the fact these for “social dialogue” with colleagues. proposals are, as yet, simply that, proposals, and a long way from The HSE assessment has calculated that, if implemented in becoming law, the NHF has emphasised. their entirety, salons would face additional £75m-a-year costs, The proposals are now with the European Commission largely from needing to ban powdered natural latex rubber where they need to go through a complicated process of gloves and to invest in “environmentally-friendly” recycling and technical and legal checks, after which they are referred to the non-slip flooring.

This is significantly more than the NHF had initially estimated EU Council of Ministers and from there go through a long negotiation process to become a directive. might be the bill for salons.

Even if a fully-fledged directive then emerges, member “There are no real benefits from the states will have a number of years to translate it into national proposals because the key health and law. However, if a government just ignores a directive there is safety risks in hairdressing are already covered by existing health and safety law,” the danger of court cases setting legal precedents that, in effect, bring it into law anyway. explained the HSE to SalonFocus.

NHF secretary general Eileen Lawson said: “These proposals For example, while reducing the use do have the potential to be very damaging and costly but salons of powdered natural latex rubber gloves must bear in mind at the moment we are only taking about might reduce the incidence of workpotential damage. related asthma, all but the most severe “The NHF will be working closely with the government and cases of latex allergy and latex-induced our allies in Europe to highlight the UK industry’s opposition to asthma could normally be managed these proposals and do all we can at every stage of what could without the need for redeployment, CHRIS GRAYLING: be a very long, slow process to make the politicians see sense,” ill health retirement or termination of OPPOSITION she added. employment.

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JULY/AUGUST 2012 SALONFOCUS PAGE 5

NEWS

Chair renting must stop being seen as a tax dodge, says NHF Chair renting needs to stop being seen by some salon owners as a mechanism to reduce the tax they pay to the government, the NHF has said.

This autumn’s changes to the tax treatment of chair renting will mean salons owners may need to rethink why they are using such arrangements in their salons and what, at a very fundamental level, chair renting is actually for within the hairdressing industry, it has argued.

Chancellor George Osborne announced in his Budget in March that he would be closing a VAT “loophole” from October to ensure that VAT will now apply to the vast majority of chair renting agreements.

The NHF has subsequently been negotiating with HM Revenue & Customs over further proposals that, it has argued, could unfairly penalise hairdressers aiming to sub-let a self-contained room to someone with an associated service.

However, this has led to some confusion that the Federation is actually looking to get the government to backtrack on removing the VAT exemption for chair renters – something NHF secretary general Eileen Lawson stressed to SalonFocus is not the case.

“The NHF is not defending any sort of VAT exemption for chair renters – that is indefensible, a fact we recognised as far back as 2008.

“What the chancellor and HMRC have done is provide clarification that chair renting should be seen as a business model – a way to expand and grow your business – rather than something to use to avoid tax, and that is something the Federation very much welcomes,” she added.

Karen Bell, coowner of Vincent Bell Hairdressing in Edinburgh, agreed the way some chair renting salons operated made it very hard for others to compete.

“Even here, in Edinburgh city centre, you do find a lot of, often smaller, salons going down the chair renting GEORGE OSBORNE: route and it is the AUTUMN TAX CHANGE

PAGE 6 SALONFOCUS JULY/AUGUST 2012

Be alert for voucher VAT change salons told

HAIR WASHING: DEBATE ON CHAIR RENTING

precedent it sets. If you are paying VAT and just doing it to expand your capacity, that’s fine, but many seem to do it simply as a way of avoiding paying VAT, which makes it much harder to compete on price,” she said.

While the NHF is supportive of the October change, which simply clarifies the law around chair renters within a salon, where it has been working with HMRC officials is over the wording of its further consultation document, VAT: Addressing Borderline Anomalies.

This is focused on the tax treatment of rented designated rooms in a salon, particularly the issue of salons that rent a space that is 100 per cent exclusive to the tenant, but where there are joint “ancillary” services such as reception, towel laundering or cleaning.

HMRC has argued such rooms should, equally, be excluded from VAT exemption rules but the NHF is arguing that, by focusing exclusively on hairdressers in this way, HMRC is potentially treating hairdressers more harshly in terms of VAT than other business tenants who rent serviced commercial space in exactly the same way, and so has been working to clarify the wording of the document.

The Federation held what it called a “constructive” meeting on this issue with high-level HMRC officials in May. “What is positive is that HMRC does appear keen to secure clarity on the tax treatment of traditional chair rents, as does the NHF, but also appears willing at least to listen to our concerns that the proposals as they stand go too far in seeking to tax separate rooms, floors and discrete areas,” said Eileen.

Salon owners are being warned to be aware that a recent European court ruling has changed the tax treatment for some promotional vouchers commonly used by hairdressing salons.

The European Court of Justice ruled in May that businesses that offer “single purpose face value” vouchers will now have to account for VAT on their sale rather than when they are redeemed by the client.

A single purpose face value voucher is one that allows a client to receive a single type of goods or service subject to the same rate of VAT, so for example a voucher that can only specifically be used for a haircut rather then any service or hair product.

The sale of such vouchers will now be treated as a supply of goods or services, meaning VAT will be due on the sale of the voucher rather than on its redemption.

Andrew Norman, VAT manager at the NHF’s auditors Buzzacott, said that, following discussions with HM Revenue & Customs, it had been clarified the change will only apply to vouchers that can be redeemed for just the one type of service.

But he argued salons owners would also now need to assess whether the change created a cash flow issue because of the VAT needing to be accounted for on issue rather than when used.

“Secondly, currently, if the voucher is not redeemed no VAT needs to be declared. However, going forward, although VAT would have been declared on the sale, it is not clear if any relief would be available if the voucher was not redeemed by the expiry date,” he explained.

Finally, salons would need to be alert to the issue of properly accounting for VAT on vouchers being redeemed that had been issued before the change, especially as there was normally no useby date on such vouchers, he added.

NEWS

Teachers often talk down hairdressing,

admits schools’ inspector Hairdressers have reacted angrily to a report by schools’ inspector Ofsted that has highlighted how some teachers consistently talk down the industry to school leavers and even try to deter more academic students from considering hairdressing as a career.

The report, Apprenticeships for Young People, looked at how young people were being recruited into apprenticeships and vocational training.

But, in a telling aside, the report admitted inspectors had come across “several examples of bright young people feeling that they had been derided by their teachers for wanting to progress to work-based learning, particularly in care or hairdressing, rather than to stay on at school”.

It added, as an example: “One very skilled hairdressing apprentice related how, on excitedly telling her headteacher that she had got an apprenticeship with Sassoon, she was allegedly told: ‘Why on earth do you want to waste your time doing that?’.”

NHF president Mark Coray, who earlier this year said careers’ advice on hairdressing in schools needed to become much improved, told SalonFocus he was saddened but unsurprised such attitudes existed.

“I recently had a junior doing Saturday work for me who was told by her careers’ adviser, who also knew she wanted to go travelling at some point, ‘why do you want to waste your life being a hairdresser when you want to see the world?’. Well I’ve travelled the world as a hairdresser representing my country – so that hurt.”

Richard Dandy, marketing and media manager for Spires Hairdressing in East Grinstead, said it was vital both individual hairdressers and organisations such as the NHF engaged with schools to get the message across that hairdressing is a skilled industry and an extremely rewarding career.

“There is a huge amount of knowledge required. You need good basic numeracy and literacy, a knowledge of science, good social and verbal skills and,

PAGE 8 SALONFOCUS JULY/AUGUST 2012

increasingly nowadays with social media becoming more important, a knowledge of technology as well as good spelling,” he said.

“There needs to be a concerted campaign to explain to schools what hairdressing really entails as a career,” he added.

In a separate development, the NHF has written to the government’s new National Careers Service (https:// nationalcareersservice.direct.gov.uk) asking it to clarify what it has argued is potentially misleading information about hairdressing on its website.

The service was launched by skills minister John Hayes in April and offers a combination of online tools, information,

telephone advice and face-to-face support.

The website has listed the starting salary for hairdressing as being £5,000 a year, which is an apprentice or trainee starting salary.

However, for many comparable sectors the site has listed the postqualified rather than the trainee salary. So for beauty therapy, for example, it gives a starting salary of £12,000 a year, with nail technicians the same.

Federation secretary general Eileen Lawson said: “The figure is not in itself wrong but is unhelpful because it means people interested in hairdressing will not be able to compare like with like when it comes to starting salaries, and so may end up with a misleading impression.”

NHF in the running for three awards

The National Hairdressers’ Federation has been shortlisted as a finalist in all three categories it has entered for this year’s Trade Association Forum (TAF) Best Practice Awards.

SalonFocus last year won “Publication of the Year” in the prestigious awards, which aim to celebrate the work and achievements of trade associations up and down the country.

The magazine has once again been shortlisted, this time in a new category of “Magazine of the Year” but will be up against one of the strongest fields on the night, with competition coming from organisations such as the British Pest Control Association and the Painters’ and Decorators’ Association.

The awards were due to be announced at the end of last month, at a ceremony at Plaisterer’s Hall in London.

The Federation’s annual report has also been shortlisted, in the “Publication of the Year” category, while its

FINALIST: NHF SHORTLISTED

membership pack is a finalist in the “Membership Pack of the Year” category.

NHF secretary general and SalonFocus publisher Eileen Lawson said: “We, of course, will keep our fingers crossed that we win on the night. But even being shortlisted is recognition of how hairdressers are helping to keep our high streets alive in an intensely difficult economic climate as well as the hard work they are doing to offer young people real opportunities at a time of record youth unemployment.”

NEWS

Government told

no-fault compensation

‘must be affordable’ The NHF gave its input in May to a “call for evidence” by the government on its proposal that owners of very small salons should be able to pay poor performers to leave rather than have to sack them and risk an unfair dismissal VINCE CABLE: case.

‘NONSENSE’ The plans to introduce so-called “compensated no fault dismissal” agreements are at an early stage, with a call for evidence normally held before a formal consultation.

However, the idea has already caused controversy. It was originally mooted in a report written for the government by venture capitalist Adrian Beecroft, which business secretary Vince Cable was reported in May to have dismissed as “complete nonsense”.

In fact, as SalonFocus went to press in June the government had proposed a watered-down alternative of “settlement agreements”. The exact details are as yet sketchy but the idea is employers will be able to offer employees a settlement to leave before a formal dispute arises, and will then be legally protected from this offer being used as evidence in an unfair dismissal tribunal case.

The Beecroft report recommended that, where an employer was unhappy with an employee’s performance, they could consult, give notice and pay “a defined level of compensation linked to the employee’s salary and length of employment”.

This should be on a par with that specified in the business’ standard redundancy agreement to ensure, first, that it offered compensation for the “no fault” nature of the dismissal and, second,

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that there was no financial incentive for “game playing” on the part of the employee.

In the call for evidence, which closed in June, the Federation agreed with these recommendations, arguing any compensation needed to be set at an affordable level, ideally one that matched an employee’s existing redundancy terms.

To have the most effect it would best be limited to micro firms, in other words to firms employing fewer than 10 staff, it added.

NHF president Mark Coray said: “Dismissal is always a last resort and no-blame compensation could allow both parties to walk away with honour. But it has to be structured in a way that is affordable for salon owners and not seen as an incentive for dismissal by poor performers.”

Compensated no fault dismissal is one of a bundle of employment reforms being promoted by the government most of which, if enacted, will require new legislation being put before Parliament.

To this end, a range of reforms, including plans to extend the qualifying period for employees to be able to claim unfair dismissal from 12 months to two years, were included within the Employment and Regulatory Reform Bill in the Queen’s Speech in May. However, the NHF has warned this needs to be clarified to ensure it excludes apprentices, who otherwise would be able to claim unfair dismissal almost from the instant they became employees in a salon rather than the clock only starting once an apprenticeship had been completed.

HAIRCLIPS GOLDSBRO TO STEP DOWN

MOBILE MUSCLE

Alan Goldsbro, chief executive of Habia, the standards-setting body for the hair, beauty, nails and spa sectors, has announced he is to retire after 23 years in the top job. He will wind down his hours until a new leadership structure is agreed that better reflects the organisation’s closer ties with SkillsActive, the sector skills council for the active sport, leisure and wellbeing industries, Habia said.

FACEBOOK SUCCESS

A Liverpool hairdressing salon chain, Voodou, is celebrating after receiving more than 13,650 Facebook “likes”. Its success has come as research has revealed more than a third of small businesses now use the social network to promote themselves, against just a quarter who rely on more conventional routes, such as local directories. But the poll by technology company BaseKit also found just one in six small businesses felt proud about their website.

WEBSITES WARNING

Salons are being warned they could face fines of up to £500,000 if they ignore tough new website privacy laws that require sites to seek permission before downloading temporary “cookies” on to users’ computers. Matthew Holman, solicitor at law firm EMW, described the change as “a wake-up call”. For most websites this will mean simply adding a pop-up request banner.

More and more shoppers are using mobile phones to compare prices, find deals or look at reviews on social networks before deciding whether to use a retailer or buy its products, research has suggested. A poll by design agency Foolproof found nearly six out of 10 shoppers used phones in this way pre-purchase, even when physically in a store.

HAIR LOSS FEAR

Nearly half of UK women say losing their hair is their greatest fear, far ahead of sagging skin or gaining weight (both 12 per cent), according to a study published in May in the European Dermatology Journal. It also argued hair loss, often dismissed as “cosmetic”, can in fact leave deep psychological scars.

WOMEN WORKING

More and more women are going into self-employment, according to research by the HR body the Chartered Institute of Personnel and Development. There had been a 16.3 per cent increase in women in selfemployment since 2008, with older women in their fifties, what it termed “the Madonna generation”, especially active.

AWARD NOMINEES

Errol Douglas, Tim Hartley, Mark Hayes, Gary Hooker and Michael Young, Akin Konizi, Mark Leeson, Angelo Seminara and Jamie Stevens are this year’s nominees for the British Hairdresser of the Year Awards. The awards, run by Hairdressers’ Journal, will be announced on November 26.

JULY/AUGUST 2012 SALONFOCUS PAGE 9

NEWS

MP pledges

to be a ‘voice’ for NHF

in Parliament The MP whose constituency encompasses the National Hairdressers’ Federation’s head office has pledged to work as a “voice” for the industry within Parliament.

Richard Fuller, Conservative MP for Bedford and Kempston, was elected to Parliament at the 2010 General Election and recently visited the Federation’s headquarters at the request of secretary general Eileen Lawson.

He told SalonFocus what attracted him to the idea of promoting hairdressing within Parliament was the sheer entrepreneurialism and energy of the sector, as well as its potential for job creation, especially among young people.

“I am a huge fan of entrepreneurialism and of encouraging people to set up their own businesses, I believe that is a really good way to help the economy to revive,” he said.

“Someone starting up their own salon may only be employing one or two other people, so we are not looking at this as being a grand national strategy, but they are great businesses.”

He highlighted the example of a new Bedford barber that he helped officially to open in March.

Jagged Edge is the third in a chain of Bedford-based family-run barber’s and is being run by Zak Resinato and business partner Gennaro Vallo.

“Hairdressing salons are a great way for young people to get into business; often too you will find the whole family is involved in the business. Hairdressing offers young people a chance to learn a trade and potentially start their own business,” Richard told SalonFocus.

“Having the NHF as one of my key constituents gives me an opportunity to promote those aspects of the profession that get overlooked.

“I look forward to working with the NHF to look at those issues and to be a voice in Parliament for it. I will hope to be able to question ministers on issues that are relevant,” he explained.

“For example, there may be issues around the role of apprentices, sole proprietors as salon owners and some aspects of taxation and VAT, such as the rate of VAT, and the way VAT is calculated and captured. I hope to be able to provide a channel of communication for industry concerns.

“I did a Master’s of Business Administration at Harvard Business School in the late 1980s. But I often learn as much about business talking to RICHARD FULLER: the guy who cuts my hair as I did from PROMOTING Harvard,” Richard added.

HAIRDRESSING

PAGE 10 SALONFOCUS JULY/AUGUST 2012

New registration

vote unlikely before 2013 Hairdresser-turned MP David Morris has resigned himself to having to wait until next year before being able to bring a new bill on mandatory registration for hairdressers before Parliament.

David, MP for Morecambe & Lunesdale, narrowly failed in his attempt to win fellow MPs over in a Ten Minute DAVID MORRIS: Rule Bill to amend the Hairdressers VOTE DELAY (Registration) Act 1964 last November (SalonFocus, January/February 2012).

After that defeat David, a member of the Hairdressing Council (HC), told SalonFocus he was optimistic he would be able to bring the issue back as another Ten Minute Rule Bill in January.

However, this proved optimistic and constraints on Parliamentary time have meant he is now looking to 2013 as a more realistic timeframe.

But David has said he is still hopeful of securing time for a parliamentary debate this year to keep the issue on the agenda as well as to tackle any concerns MPs may have.

“It gives us the opportunity to talk to MPs and get anything resolved before it goes to Parliament next year,” he told SalonFocus.

Meanwhile, Sally Styles, the HC’s registrar, has created two template letters for hairdressers and clients to send to their MPs to press the case for mandatory registration.

The letters can be downloaded from the HC website, www.haircouncil.org.uk, and can be adapted by individuals before sending off.

In other developments, Shirley Davis-Fox, managing director of Bridgend-based ISA Training and WorldSkills ambassador for training in Wales, completed a series of 12 roadshows in the country in May, where she has been raising awareness about the benefits of mandatory registration with employees and students.

Shirley is hoping to persuade the Welsh Assembly to bring in mandatory registration ahead of the rest of the UK.

NEWS

NHF members remember, and salute,

Vidal Sassoon

NHF members have mourned the loss to the hairdressing world of Vidal Sassoon, who died in May. Vidal, 84, an NHF companion of honour, died at his home in Los Angeles after a career that saw him change the face – and reputation – of hairdressing around the world.

The tributes were led by NHF president Mark Coray, who said: “Although I never had the privilege of working with Vidal Sassoon personally, he was always a huge influence.

“He revolutionized hairdressing, making it less bouffant and backcombed and giving styles more shape.

The things he did back in the 1960s are still with us today and still inspire.”

Many NHF members either knew or had worked with Vidal over the years, and were unanimous in praising the inspirational lead he gave.

“Early on in my career, just as I was thinking about giving up hairdressing, I bought a ticket to see Vidal at a oneday seminar at the Royal Albert Hall.

He was inspiring; totally enthusiastic and totally motivated. I thank you so much Vidal. I’m now into my 40th year in hairdressing,” recalled Greg Rattey, owner of Toplines in Sawbridgeworth.

“I met Vidal Sassoon in Edinburgh recently – I was able to chat with him and got the chance to thank him for saving my career!” echoed Graeme Hamilton, owner of Couper & Co Hairdressing in Falkirk.

“I trained as a hairdresser over 30 years ago but became disheartened after the first couple of years. I decided to retrain with the Sassoon Academy, and a whole new world was opened up to me.

“I have been to the academy every year and now send my stylists to London for regular Sassoon training.

On my birthday last year, I received a birthday card from Vidal himself – all the way from Beverley Hills along with a signed photograph which has pride of place.”

“Vidal was a huge inspiration, not only for his hairdressing skills but also

www.nhf.info

INSPIRATIONAL: VIDAL WITH NHF MEMBER GRAEME HAMILTON

for the way in which he ran his business.

His attention to detail was incredible and if you didn’t look or act the part whilst in his salon, then you didn’t have a job! However, working there you also knew you were in the best hair salon in town,” agreed celebrity colourist Jo Hansford, who trained with Vidal at the start of her career.

“In 1965, at the age of 18, I was fortunate to spend three separate weeks training at the Bond Street salon.

The second day I was told to report to the Grosvenor House Hotel salon to watch the stylists work. Within minutes the whisper went round that Vidal was going to be in the salon all day, just back from opening his first salon in New York,” recalled Stephen Morley, of Hair Management in Warwick.

“He came in and started cutting a client’s hair. I stood frozen, hardly daring to move; this was like having ‘God’ in the room! Next thing he put down his scissors and walked across to me. ‘You are the hairdresser from Coventry? Please stand by me while I cut my clients’ hair’.

“I watched him work all that day.

He explained every move and section he took. It’s something I have never forgotten and never will. With all that was happening in his world at that time he still knew I was a young hairdresser and he was desperate to pass on his skills and passion for hairdressing. That says all about the man he was!”

• The Vidal we knew, page 34

MOVERS&GROOVERS TOOLS FOR LIBERIA

Blush Hair Nails and Beauty in Sandhurst, Berkshire, is urging salons to join it in supporting charity Global Hearts for Children, which is collecting hairdressing tools to be shipped out to Liberia to help locals start out in hairdressing. Anyone interested can either contact the charity at info@ globalheartsforchildren. org or get in touch with coowner Sue Hinton direct at sue@dshpr.co.uk.

SOUTH DEVON MOVIE NIGHT

Well done to the 140 students from South Devon College who pulled out all the stops in March for the college’s annual hairdressing show “A Night at the Movies”. The event was attended by more than 600 people, who saw more than 190 models being styled in the themes of Grease, Rocky Horror Picture Show, Alice in Wonderland, Disney and “avant garde”.

Q APPLAUSE

West Sussex salon owner and NHF member Anthony Barnes-Smith has been presented with a “Lifetime Achievement Award” to mark his 40-year contribution to the hairdressing industry.

Anthony, owner of Q Hair & Beauty in Chichester, was given the award at the Chichester Observer Business Awards in March.

TWENTY YEARS FOR WILSON’S

Congratulations to longstanding NHF member Wilson’s Hairdressing and Beauty Salon in Macclesfield, which celebrated 20 years of trading with a party in April attended by more than 80 people. Owner Audrey Wilson said: “The business has come a long way since I opened my first salon in 1992 with just one stylist (who incidentally is still with me) and I now employ 20 staff across two salons.”

SNAPPER SHORTLIST

A shortlist of 10 ladies’ and 10 men’s photographs has been drawn up for this year’s NHF Photographic Stylist of the Year competition and can be found by going to the “artistic” tab on www.nhf. info. Eight finalists will now be chosen, with the winner announced at the President’s Banquet and Ball at the NHF annual conference in Cardiff in October.

SORBIE HABB HONOUR

The Fellowship of British Hairdressing President’s Night, in association with the HABB Awards, honoured Trevor Sorbie in April by giving him the HABB Humanitarian Award for his work with his charity initiative My New Hair. Trevor said: “I’m in the last chapter of my hairdressing career, but nothing has ever given me more satisfaction than my work with My New Hair”.

NHF RIDE FOR HABB

Ian Egerton, secretary for the NHF’s London region, is raising funds for Hair and Beauty Benevolent.

Ian will be cycling 400km around Cape Cod between September 29 to October 5, with the aim of raising £5,000 for the charity.

To donate and support Ian, please go to: www. justgiving.com/Ian-Egerton

JULY/AUGUST 2012 SALONFOCUS PAGE 11

NEWS

Male grooming helping salons

to defy high street gloom Sharply rising demand for male grooming and barbering is helping to sustain many hairdressing and beauty salons, despite the almost uniformly grim picture elsewhere on the high street, a survey has suggested.

In fact, nearly a third of hair and beauty business owners say they are even looking to hire staff over the next 12 months, bucking the wider trend of shop closures and redundancies that have been blighting many high streets, according to the Beautiful Britain poll of nearly 1,600 customers of hair and beauty products supplier Salon Services.

Just under half – 43 per cent – were more confident about their business prospects than a year ago, with two thirds saying they were seeing an increase in male customers, a trend the NHF has now tapped into with the launch of its new barbering team Barbers’ Elite.

While haircuts, unsurprisingly, remain the most common purchase for men, massage, hair removal, colouring and skin treatments were all gaining in popularity.

Some 31 per cent of male customers now asked for massages, with a similar proportion requesting hair removal, while nail treatments and tanning were demanded by 18 per cent and 17 per cent respectively.

The average cost of a male haircut was now £18.60, with the most expensive cuts (£25.10) being in London and cheapest (£15.70) in Yorkshire.

Intriguingly, the survey concluded women were not necessarily extending the time between salon visits to save on money, with the gap for haircuts, at 5.8 weeks, broadly unchanged on previous surveys.

However, this was not the case all over the country, with the south west, for example, reporting a gap of 7.2 weeks between visits for professional colouring, against a national average of 6.5 weeks.

Manicures, pediRICHARD HULL: cures and hair removal OPPORTUNITY

PAGE 12 SALONFOCUS JULY/AUGUST 2012

were becoming more popular, but styling, cutting and colouring still dominated the women’s market.

As an example, the survey quoted Paula Young of Definitions Hair Studio in Chelmsford, who said: “We expected to see a drop off in customer visits as people felt the effects of the tough economic conditions. Thankfully this didn’t happen and business has been steady, although we have found customers are more selective about their beauty treatments.”

When it came to training, 17 per cent of those polled had completed hair and beauty courses and 88 per cent possessed both hair and beauty qualifications.

Richard Hull, managing director of Salon Services UK & Ireland, said: “With the male hairdressing market estimated to be worth £1.2bn alone, this market now represents a significant opportunity for hairdressers and salons across the UK.” However, the wider picture on the high street remains challenging and future trends appear to present even more of a headache for the industry.

Research published in May by insolvency trade body R3 has concluded that more than two thirds of retailers believe shoppers will predominantly be visiting out-of-town shopping parks instead of the high street within three years’ time.

The same proportion believed that by 2015 most shops would have moved from a physical presence to an online one, though the research did not address the question of where this left sectors such as hairdressing that have no choice but to have a “bricks and mortar” presence.

Data released in April, meanwhile, by retail researcher Trevor Wood Associates has shown a continuing shift by retailers to out-of-town locations.

While the number of empty high street units was increasing, retailers that would once have been expected to fill the gaps, such as Next or Poundworld, were now more likely to be moving out of town wherever possible, it said.

• Men’s wealth: focus on barbering, pages 28-29

Entrepreneur floats new salon idea A hairdressing and beauty entrepreneur is working on plans to open a chain of hybrid “boat-salons” on the south coast.

Cat Hawkes already owns two salons, both named The Dolls House, in Barnes in south west London and in Sunninghill, Berkshire and plans to open a third 1,000sq ft salon CAT HAWKES: in Shepperton, Surrey, BOAT-SALONS later this year.

On top of this she is weighing up plans to turn five moored boats in Poole Harbour, Bournemouth and Sandbanks into salons, with a target clientele of wealthy yacht owners.

Cat told SalonFocus the boats cost about £60,000 to buy and kit-out plus about £1,200 mooring fees.

Each boat is like a mobile home and so relatively easy to get connected to utilities, the price of which is included in the mooring fee.

If the plan comes to fruition each boat will have about five staff and three styling positions and open normal salon hours, unless there is a particular demand during peak season for early mornings or late evenings.

The salons will offer styling, blowdry, eyelash and nail services, although colour and other high-end hair services will not be available.

“It will be a VIP service for very wealthy people who come in with their yachts. I see the Dolls House as a boutique brand,” she said.

Salons slam ‘woolly’

BEAUTY

SPOTS

government response to Portas Review The government’s response to retail troubleshooter Mary Portas’ review of town centres has been criticised by salon owners for failing to take a tough enough line on parking charges and traffic logjams in city centres.

The Portas Review, published in December, recommended the establishment of a “league table” for car park charges and the introduction of more free, controlled parking schemes (SalonFocus, July-August 2011 and March-April 2012).

The government’s response (see panel) published in March broadly accepted many of her recommendations and made one or two new commitments but, overall, announced little of substance, with Federation secretary general Eileen Lawson describing it as “all spin and no substance”.

When it came to parking the government agreed parking charges could have “a real impact on the success of the high street” but also made it clear this was an issue for local councils to resolve.

To this end the government would simply “encourage local authorities to look closely at their parking provisions and charges, ensuring they deliver the best outcomes locally”, it said.

Salon owners have derided this response as being worryingly weak.

Stuart Holmes, who established Stuart Holmes Hair & Beauty Spa in Cheltenham, Gloucestershire with wife Sara in 2003, felt the overall tone and wording of the response was MARY PORTAS: “woolly” and could leave GOVERNMENT BACKING room for councils and the government to wriggle out of doing anything concrete.

For example, while the report highlighted the need for “appropriate” parking charges nowhere did it define what was meant by appropriate from town to town.

Stuart, for one, highlighted the scale of the STUART HOLMES: problem for many salons PARKING WOES

www.nhf.info

SUNBED WARNING

by revealing he had been forced to take the unpalatable decision to pay for his clients’ car parking charges himself after his town centre introduced pay and display charging in areas previously free.

Nic Davis, owner of Simply Remastered, a salon in London’s Fitzrovia, said when he worked at Vidal Sassoon 12 years ago people often visited purely because they knew they would be able to park in the West End. Now the situation was completely reversed: “Saturday is now my quietest day because people don’t want to use public transport,” he pointed out.

Eileen Lawson added that at the moment there was insufficient provision of longterm parking at the right price close to town centres. “Getting the mix right would be helpful,” she said.

The government’s key commitments included: • The launch of 12 pilot “town teams”.

• A pledge of £500,000 to help Business Improvement Districts access loans for their set-up costs.

• The establishment of a £10m “high-street innovation” fund to help areas blighted by empty shop units.

• A £1m “Future High Street X-Fund” to reward areas delivering “the most effective and innovative plans to bring their town centres back to life”.

• A consultation on proposals to abolish the centrally-set minimum parking penalty charge, so giving councils the flexibility they need to levy parking penalty notices at a lower rate.

• Allowing the conversion of space above shops to two flats without the need for planning permission, rather than the current limit of one.

• The full response can be found at: http:// www.communities.gov.uk/publications/ regeneration/portasreviewresponse

Nearly a third of tanning salons are breaking the law by not checking the age of users, the Chartered Institute of Environmental Health has said, after it carried out secret inspections of 81 salons in 12 local authority areas. It has been illegal since April last year for anyone under 18 to use sunbeds in a tanning salon. In a separate move, the same law came into effect in Northern Ireland in May, the last UK country to put this in place.

BROW BAR LAUNCH

Los Angeles beauty treatment brand Billion Dollar Brows has been launched into the UK. Beautician Kerie Hoy launched the bar in her salon in Hitchin, Hertfordshire in March, and has secured exclusive rights to become UK master trainer for the brand.

HOLIDAY HORROR

Almost one in four women won’t be wearing sun tan lotion when they go abroad this year, according to a poll of 1,500 women by Macmillan Cancer Support. The poll, to coincide with Sun Awareness Week at the start of May, found a quarter claimed they would not burn, 14 per cent thought lotions were too expensive and 12 per cent argued they did not work anyway.

PRIMAVERA TO UK

US spa brand Primavera has been launched into the UK. The brand is most associated with spas at Walt Disney World, Glen Ivy Hot Springs in California and Dolder Grand Spa in the Swiss Alps.

SHAVING CLUB

A mail-order male shaving and grooming service has been set up by the website MenAreUseless. com. The Just A Few Quid Shave Club charges customers a monthly fee and in return they are sent a razor of their choice and compatible handle.

JULY/AUGUST 2012 SALONFOCUS PAGE 13

CUTTING BRIEF

Your legal problems

solved

We have two part-time stylists who do not get on. We are experiencing problems with their performance as a result. Can we make them redundant and employ one full-time stylist?

Redundancy is a potential fair reason for dismissal, but for it to be applicable you must ensure you can demonstrate this is a genuine redundancy situation to the parties involved.

Usually, a redundancy occurs when work has ceased or diminished, or is expected to do so. In your situation, this does not seem to be the case; the reason for dismissal appears to be performance problems. In light of this, should you proceed the employees may bring a claim for unfair dismissal at an employment tribunal.

You could also face a claim on the basis of the two employees being part time. The Part-time Workers (Prevention of Less Favourable Treatment) Regulations 2000 prohibit part-time employees being treated less favourably than comparable full-time employees. This includes selecting employees for redundancy based on their part-time status.

You should consider instead starting a performance management process to resolve the situation.

We suspect one of our apprentices has been stealing products to sell on herself. She has always struggled to manage her finances and regularly asked for advances on her wages. A couple of months ago she stopped asking for advances and we started to “lose” stock. Can we dismiss her?

You will need to undertake a thorough investigation into this before taking action against any of your employees.

As part of your investigation, you will need to ensure your stock calculations are accurate. If you can find evidence you have stock missing, you would need to investigate this with all your members of staff, including this apprentice.

You should look at who has access to your storeroom and any records/documents that form part of your stock management protocols. For example, do you have a sign-out sheet for when products are taken from the storeroom or do you number bottles? You would also benefit from establishing approximately when items went missing and who was working.

You would not be able to dismiss this individual on the basis that she has stopped asking you for advances, as she may simply have become better at budgeting or perhaps now has an income from elsewhere.

Furthermore, you should be mindful of this person’s apprenticeship status, which means she is much more protected than other employees and you should only dismiss for gross misconduct if you have solid grounds to do so.

In the absence of a fair process and solid allegations, which are supported with sound investigations, you might find yourself liable to pay her for the remainder of the training agreement.

Following a full and thorough investigation – and provided you

PAGE 14 SALONFOCUS JULY/AUGUST 2012

Gillian Dowling from Croner, operator of the NHF’s Legal Lifeline, answers your questions have good, clear evidence which demonstrates this apprentice is the individual responsible – you could proceed in accordance with your disciplinary procedure; suspend the apprentice and invite them to attend a disciplinary hearing.

We are getting an increasing number of customers asking for their hair to be coloured there and then, without a patch test. Previously we have refused to do this but, with money tight, we would like to keep the custom. Can we colour someone’s hair without a patch test?

In short, no. You should avoid doing this at all costs. There is no absolute way you can guarantee people won’t have a reaction to hair colour; indeed people can develop an allergy in the eight or so weeks between colours. So you should ensure you patch-test each and every time.

If you don’t do a patch test – even for a regular client – you will invalidate your insurance. This will mean if a claim is made you will have the hassle of having to find a solicitor and prepare a defence. It will also mean you will be responsible for any compensation, which could run into thousands of pounds.

On the Legal Lifeline we are finding increasing calls relating to one-off clients who have some sort of reaction and threaten to make a claim therefore, while turning away a client who refuses to have a patch test may seem like losing custom, you are actually probably saving yourself from malicious claims. If the customer is genuine they will be happy to come back after the test if you explain why.

Any form or notice you have that a customer can sign will not absolve you of any liability. The law states you are not able to exclude liability for personal injury, so while it will give an indication the customer was aware of – and happy with – the risks of not having a patch test, you will still probably be jointly liable.

What the Legal Lifeline offers you: • •

24/7 employment-related queries Advice and commercial matters, 9am-5pm Monday to Friday Access to the Legal Lifeline is available by calling 01234 834389. Alternatively NHF members can log on to www.nhf.info. A full summary of cover can be found on the reverse of your legal card carrier or by logging onto to www.nhf.info/membershipbenefits/legalsupport.

The NHF operates a “fair use policy” for the lifeline.

Members exceeding 50 calls within a 12-month period may be charged £20 plus VAT per call. All calls to the Legal Lifeline are recorded and monitored by Croner. If your chosen membership category does not include employer support service or your membership is unpaid at the time of any call a charge of £20 plus VAT will apply for all such calls made.

Help us to celebrate

Britain’s

Best

The countdown has started…

Britain’s most innovative, interactive hairdressing event Nominate online then vote by text ‘Click and send’ your mobile photos Compete on the main floor in Birmingham on November 18 Find out more at www.britainsbest.me

One Abbey Court Fraser Road Priory Business Park Bedford, MK44 3WH Tel: 0845 345 6500 or 01234 831965 Fax: 01234 838875 Email: enquiries@nhf.info Web: www.nhf.info

Proud sponsor of Britain’s Best

Britain’s

Best

Britain’s Best will be held at the Hilton Birmingham Metropole Hotel on November 18 and sponsored by Aston & Fincher.

But the physical competition is just a small part of an interactive event that is a brand new way of applauding and celebrating all that is great about British hairdressing and barbering.

Central to this will be the competition’s innovative online “Text Vote” Popularity Poll.

Members of the public, peers, friends, family and valued customers will all be able to vote by text for their favourites in one of six Britain’s Best categories, covering:

Text Vote • • • • • •

Stylist/barber of the year Salon owner/manager of the year Receptionist of the year College student of the year Charity worker of the year College lecturer of the year

The poll will happen in two stages.

First, anyone will be able to go online and nominate their best of British by registering at www.britainsbest.me, with a cut-off date of September 14.

round of text-based voting, with nominees needing to canvass for votes as hard as they can!

The final whistle will then be blown at the end of October, after which all votes will be counted and the winner of each category announced in Birmingham.

All nominations will be assessed by a panel of NHF judges, from which a shortlist will be drawn up.

These shortlisted contenders will be sent a special Britain’s Best code, which will be the key to a second

Winning a popularity competition isn’t just about being popular; it’s about how you present yourself to people who don’t know you but whose votes you need!

Aston & Fincher’s top-selling, exclusive brands will help. Take Matrix, or our fantastic value, hugely trusted colour ranges like NXT and Framesi to the brilliant styling and care ranges from hot Australian brand Evo. Aston & Fincher, Britain’s Best exclusive sponsor, has the perfect in-salon and retail ranges to make your salon stand out and deliver votewinning results every time!

Proud sponsor of Britain’s Best

Click ‘n’ Send

Britain’s

Best

We’ve all been there – you’ve done a great head you’re really proud of, but how to enter it into competition if you’re not part of “the circuit” or without spending a fortune on a professional photographer?

Now you can, through the Britain’s Best “Click ‘n’ Send” Head of the Year Photographic Competition!

It couldn’t be simpler. Grab your phone and snap your favourite style, which could be work you’ve done on a client, colleague, family member or friend, even a self-portrait.

Then either upload it on to www.britainsbest.me or email it to

clicksend@britainsbest.me, sit back and wait to see what happens!

All images will be judged, with those lucky enough to be shortlisted invited to attend the Birmingham competition in person.

There the pressure will be on as you will be asked to recreate the style on your model on the competition floor – and an overall winner will be announced.

The closing date for entries will be October 12, with those shortlisted informed by October 15. Those attending the Birmingham competition will be required to pay a £5 entry fee.

Before you reach for your mobile, it’ll be worth thinking about what tools and accessories you’re going to need to create the best image you can.

Aston & Fincher’s tools range will be the perfect fit to help you get the most from this fantastically simple to enter competition. Our stunning value Swiss Valera dryers, for example, enable you to work effortlessly and deliver your best work, day in, day out.

Proud sponsor of Britain’s Best

Britain’s

Best

Britain’s Best on November 18 will include a star-studded floor competition at the Hilton Metropole Hotel in Birmingham that it is expected will become one of the highlights of the hairdressing calendar.

It will be a day of intense, frenzied competition, with 11 competitions running across the following categories: • Ladies Fashion (senior and junior) • Gents Fashion (senior and junior) • Newcomer • British bride • Colour of the day

Competition The competitions will be open to juniors, trainees and newcomers, as well as seasoned professionals – everyone is welcome! The closing date for entries will be November 9.

On top of this, competitors and audience alike will be able to meet celebrity stylist Lee Stafford.

Lee will be holding a Q&A session revealing some of the secrets behind his talent as well as offering photographic opportunities.

Full entry details can be found at: www.britainsbest.me

To hit the competition floor running you’ll need to be at your best, both in terms of your skills and creativity.

To build and maintain skills and catch up on all the trends visit an Aston & Fincher Academy. We have seminars and workshops to get you competition-ready (and your clients will love the results, too!).

More details can be found at www.astonandfincher.co.uk

Proud sponsor of Britain’s Best

Trip the night fantastic Studio 54, the new combined collection from NHF Inspire and Barbers’ Elite Hair: NHF Inspire and Barbers’ Elite art teams Photography: Desmond Murray Stylist: Tawfi Khoury Make-up: Jo Sugar

PAGE 20 SALONFOCUS JULY/AUGUST 2012

INSPIRED

www.nhf.info

JULY/AUGUST 2012 SALONFOCUS PAGE 21

INSPIRED

PAGE 22 SALONFOCUS JULY/AUGUST 2012

FEDERATION FOCUS

New roving ‘motivator’ for NHF’s competition talent Stephen Coles, former trainer for the NHF’s Team GB competition squad, has been appointed to a new role as a roving “competition motivator” to help support and train hairdressers interested in competition work.

The NHF’s decision last December to resign its membership from the Organisation Mondiale de la Coiffure has meant the Federation can no longer operate a formal Team GB squad.

However, mindful of the need to continue to nurture and enthuse upand-coming and existing competition talent within its ranks, Stephen, owner of Stephen Coles Hair Design in Lancashire, has been tasked with a new role of supporting, training and motivating competition workers.

He has also stressed the Federation remains keen to encourage and bring on any members – or employees of member salons – who are interested in competition work.

To this end, monthly Sunday competition training sessions are being STEPHEN COLES: organised from SUPPORT

this month at the Aston and Fincher Training Academy in Birmingham.

These are being held on July 8, August 5 and September 2, and anyone interested should contact Stephen direct, either on 07980 641386 or by email to stephen@ coles29.orangehome.co.uk Away from the competition circuit, the Federation’s artistic team NHF Inspire has attended its first two seminar days with its 2012 mentors, the Trevor Sorbie Artistic Team.

The team in March spent an educational cutting day with director and head of education Tiziana di Marcelli in March, who demonstrated how to create a short hair and texturized bob, focusing on the different cutting techniques required to make a sharp look.

There was also tuition on how to use clippers to create definition, thinning the hair using scissors and razor to remove weight, creating layers and feathering, and creating a sharp base.

This was followed by a technical day with Nathan Walker, international technical director, in May. The team also showcased its work for Yorkshire region in May, displaying two looks on each model, with the theme being a modern British take on the “1950s’ classic swimwear look”.

NHF is going digital!

The National Hairdressers’ Federation has officially launched two new social media platforms to keep members updated and informed.

Members can now follow the NHF on Twitter, at @NHFederation, or they can “like”

www.nhf.info

the Federation’s new Facebook page at http://www.facebook.com/ nationalhairdressersfederation.

Both sites will regularly be updated with industry news and insights, and include information on events, competitions, demonstrations and exhibitions.

Regional round-up The NHF Central England Awards were held in May, with awards being presented by Lee Stafford and region chairman Keith Broughton.

Other industry notables in attendance included Trevor Sorbie and Beverly C, who also demonstrated.

Kimm Elwell from Walsall College encouraged local students and apprentices to work together on turning hairstyles from everyday salon looks to catwalk and show work. A charity auction was held for the My New Hair charity, which raised more than £1,000.

Salon of the year was Syer Hair & Beauty in Sutton Coldfield while hairdresser of the year was Andi Needham of Josephs Hair Team, in Tamworth.

A full list of the winners can be found on the NHF’s website, at www.nhf.info Ivan Blout, regional secretary for East Midlands region organised a seminar in March at which the Sassoon artistic team was invited to showcase up-and-coming trends, with the event attracting more than 350 guests and proving to be a great success.

The Devon and Cornwall Championships took place in April, with South Devon College scooping four gold medals.

The college’s Jordan Winter took first place in the More Mature Ladies Styling event, also achieving gold in the Trainee Ladies Hair Up category.

In the bridal event Leah Welch took the top spot, while Lois Taylor was winner in the Ladies Hair Up event. Again, a full list of the winners can be found on www.nhf.info NHF Bournemouth and Reading networking group held its annual competition in April.

A twist this year was the introduction of two themes: a “masquerade ball” and “Ladies’ Day at Ascot”. Competitors produced some stunning pieces using the hair as the fascinators for their models. The event was also filmed by Sky TV for a reality TV show due to be broadcast later this year.

Glynis Elliot, networking group secretary, said the atmosphere on the day was as a result “electric”, adding: “It was fantastic to see so many new salons attending.” A full list of the winners can be found at www.nhf.info.

Finally, Blackpool networking group held its annual general meeting in May, at which Kevin Fox was installed as president by retiring president Cheryl Swarbrick. Graham Collins was also installed as vice president.

JULY/AUGUST 2012 SALONFOCUS PAGE 23

FEDERATION FOCUS

! e c n e r e f n o c r o

f y d a Get re Cardiff is home to the Millennium Stadium, Cardiff Arms Park, Dr Who (when he’s not out and about in his little blue box) and the NHF’s very own president Mark Coray.

It’s a vibrant, energetic city, with a reputation for buzzing nightlife alongside cultural attractions such as Cardiff Castle, the Millennium Centre, the National Museum, which is said to house one of the finest collections of impressionist art outside Paris and, of course, the country’s seat of politics, the Welsh National Assembly.

Cardiff will be the location for impassioned debate of a different sort this autumn, when it will host this year’s National Hairdressers’ Federation’s Annual Conference and Annual General Meeting (see panel), which is being held on Saturday October 6 through to Monday October 8 at the Hilton Cardiff.

In fact, this year’s conference could be the last combined conference and AGM ever held by the Federation, as members at the AGM will on the Sunday debate a motion to remove the delegate conference from the rules, meaning conference in future could become a “members’ event”.

NHF Wales Region will launch the proceedings on the Saturday with the traditional “At Home” evening at Cardiff Castle.

The evening will start at

PAGE 24 SALONFOCUS JULY/AUGUST 2012

7.30pm and this year will be a medievalthemed hog roast, complete with mead on arrival.

It will also be an opportunity to look out your hose, jerkins, kirtles and surcoats, as medieval fancy dress is being encouraged, with a prize for the best outfit of the night.

Tickets will be £25 a head, though NEC and delegates will each receive one free ticket.

The Sunday will see the start of the AGM at 10am, with the conference opening in the afternoon.

This will be followed by the President’s Banquet and Ball, beginning at 7.30pm with entertainment provided by a Welsh male voice choir and a band.

Tickets are priced at £55.

The final day, Monday, will be members’ day and include artistic demonstrations by NHF Inspire, led by new team manager Colin McAndrew, as well as Barbers’ Elite, led by James Beattie.

The conference will then conclude with a business seminar by celebrity hairdresser and serial entrepreneur Alan Austin-Smith.

Alan will explain how his core philosophy – that 50 per cent of what makes a fantastic hairdresser or salon has nothing to do with scissors and all to do with communication, customer delight, selfmotivation, attitude and image – could transform your business.

He will show how this approach has inspired and motivated some of the best hairdressers around the world, including Trevor Sorbie, Charles Worthington, Anthony Mascolo,

AGM notice Notice is hereby given that the 70th Annual General Meeting of the members of the National Hairdressers’ Federation will be held at the Hilton Cardiff, Kingsway, Cardiff CF10 3HH, on Sunday October 7, 2012 commencing at 10am.

The purpose of the meeting is to receive and approve the annual report and accounts for the year ended December 31, 2011, to appoint the auditors, the installation of the national officers and to consider any other business of a general character of which due notice has been given.

By order of the National Executive Council E A Lawson, Secretary General May 2012 The attention of members is drawn to the notice of special resolutions inserted into this edition of SalonFocus. Members are respectfully requested to submit questions arising from the accounts to head office at least seven days before the meeting.

Vivienne Mackinder, Angelo Seminara and Sally Brooks.

All-day tickets for the Monday are £10 for NEC, delegates and students, £20 for members and £50 for non-members.

Member registration forms are available from the National Hairdressers’ Federation, 1 Abbey Court, Fraser Road, Priory Business Park, Bedford MK44 3WH. Tel: 0845 345 6500 or 01234 831965. E-mail: enquiries@nhf.info Delegate registration forms will be sent to all regions and networking groups during the week commencing July 1.

BRIDAL HAIR

Wedding

wows

On her big day the bride is going to rely on her hairdresser like never before, and getting it right requires military-style planning, flexibility and coolness under pressure, writes Daniel Caceres.

Consider extensions

Daniel Caceres is a member of the Trevor Sorbie Artistic Team and a long hair, hair-up and bridal hair specialist. He contributed to Trevor’s The Bridal Hair Book as well as a bridal video with Caryn Franklin and has worked with both Trevor and Angelo Seminara on shows and stage work overseas.

Perfect bridal hair can be much improved with hair extensions, writes Michelle Preston of Images for Hair Extensions.

A consultation is of the utmost importance with any client for hair extensions, brides even more so if they are first-time wearers.

If opting for bonded extensions, it is important to make the bride fully aware of the aftercare involved, especially given the possible effects of sun, sea and sand during any honeymoon.

If she decides to have a wavy style the end result will be shorter, so make sure she is aware of this when you decide what length of extensions to have applied.

Make sure you have your chosen hair colours for her to see before the appointment date – this allows time if a change of colour/length is needed.

Apply the extensions at least three weeks before, as if she is new to extensions she will need time to get used to them.

Finally, do make sure you book in an appointment for a trial run before the big day!

PAGE 26 SALONFOCUS JULY/AUGUST 2012

Before a bride can decide on the perfect hairstyle she needs, of course, to decide on the dress: the different shapes and styles will give a direction on the hairstyle to complement it.

The shape of the dress will also determine the volume required for the hairdo – and you need to remember not to get taller than the groom by having too much volume on top! If the dress is made with light fabrics such as tulle or organza you may want to consider a hairstyle with the texture more undone.

If your bride decides to be different and has a colourful wedding dress then you’ll have no limits on what you can do and have in her hair. A strapless dress/nude back will require some hair down and if the dress is asymmetric, work on a side chignon. If the bride is planning to wear a tiara or a veil make sure she brings it to the trial hair day!

Picture perfect

My top trend tip for 2012 is GLAMOUR! Think braids, high buns, finger waves and loose curls and waves; soft hairstyles that aren’t too sleek or severe, hair off the face pushed back or to one side, and when having it in an up-do try height at the front and quiff.

If the bride wants her hair down, maybe in soft waves, make sure the hair will hold throughout the day. Having the hair down doesn’t usually last more than a few hours and if the special day’s weather is windy and damp you will need the pictures taken fast.

It can be a good idea to warn the bride about this so she can make an informed decision!

On the trial day make sure the time is planned properly with the stylist. Always allow extra time for things such as finding the best light to set up in, looking for plugs, answering the door or phone, looking at the flowers, talking to people who’ve just arrived and so on. There are often many interruptions, so allow for these.

Bride comes first

It’s important to try various options and not stay with a fixed idea of a hair-do. On the day it’s vital to start with the bride as she is the most important person; once done she can move around and start makeup. In the meantime, family and bridesmaids’ hair can be taking place and you can finish and refresh the bride’s hairstyle later.

Always determine a time to finish the bride’s hair – not too early as the hair needs to be at its best. If the bride has a veil it’s good to nominate a bridesmaid to assist the stylist when placing this on so you can explain to her how to remove it carefully later in the day.

Arriving early will give you time to relax and be calm; it’s very important you remain this way.

Dress smart so you can blend in. Have breakfast as it will be an intense morning; remember you need to be in control of the morning and the bride will listen to you more than the bridesmaids, even possibly more than her mother!

SUMMER FESTIVALS

Musical roots Glastonbury may be taking a break this year but hairdressing teams can learn loads – as well as have a lot of fun – styling backstage at a summer festival, argues John Parker. Just don’t forget your wellies!

When we first were asked to do T in the Park we immediately knew it was a great honour as it is one of the best-known festivals in the world. It is pretty full-on to be in charge of an 18-strong team over three days in the “artists’ village”, complete with some of the coolest people in the music business. Not to mention the free bar!

We now have a purpose-built “pop up” salon for the festivals, which is kept in storage and each year checked out carefully so any improvements or design changes can be done.

Editorial-type styling

Our artistic team is constantly working on new looks, but festivals are different, as you have a lot of editorial-type styling to be done, with everything from a fringe trim to an asymmetric crop.

Before the festival we get together and put some storyboards out and decide on the strongest looks for styling and dressing. We then spend time practising them over and over with many variations. This ensures noone is unprepared, and makes the artists feel comfortable and confident when in the salon.

One of the biggest challenges is having to do most of our styling and cutting without any backwash facilities. The artists tend not to come in with wet hair and in some cases dry shampoo is the best tool we have. Weather is always a challenge in Scotland, but the artists must look cool whatever the elements throw at us.

In all the years I’ve been involved we have never had any “diva” moments from the performers. If anything it is more likely to be the production manager or PA who gets stroppy, as they will be working to very strict timelines. For the artists, the salon can be a place to relax and chill out, somewhere they can chat to us or other artists.

That’s not to say you never get moments of high drama. For example, Tulisa from N-Dubz

www.nhf.info

and The X Factor was a bit of a challenge because her stylist failed to appear.

She, of course, wanted her hair just perfect but we offered to help, managed to calm her down and, despite it being a last-minute rush, she ended up looking absolutely great on stage and was very thankful.

Salon kudos

It can be very intensive – and we are truly knackered after each day! By the final morning you may feel like you just want to crash and burn but back in the salon the whole team gets to relive it, posting pictures online and doing pieces for the press, not to mention just retelling all the stories!

More than that, there is kudos in being involved in “T” that does filter back down into the business.

Our salon is in the west end of Glasgow, which is traditionally full of students, and so our association with the festival means the “coolness” factor is always there.

For the team too, everyone knows the ones who work hardest get asked to work at T; it is a big responsibility and the training and attitude must be just right, it isn’t a “jolly”.

Having said that, we work to a rota and try where we can to accommodate people so they can get out and enjoy at least some of the music and atmosphere.

We tend to work 11am-7pm and, as the bands don’t finish until 11pm there is some scope to “play” after hours.

We may not get to see everyone perform but, at the same time, when else could you find yourself chatting to some of the biggest rock and pop names on the planet?

• Rainbow Room International will again be at T in the Park from Friday 6 to Sunday 8 July at Balado in Kinross-shire.

John Parker (left, with Huey Morgan from Fun Lovin’ Criminals) is director of Glasgow-based salon chain Rainbow Room International, which for the past six years has styled the stars at Scotland’s biggest music festival, T in the Park.

LAST-MINUTE CHALLENGE: STYLING TULISA

JULY/AUGUST 2012 SALONFOCUS PAGE 27

BARBERING

Men’s wealth Barbering is finally stepping out of hairdressing’s shadow, and will be a major growth market in years to come, predicts Alan Findlay.

Barbering has often been seen as something of the poor relation of the hairdressing industry. But it has been around for thousands of years and is one of the world’s oldest professions.

I’ve been a barber since I was 17, coming into the trade after a year in the army – the first cut I learned was the flat-top, which I taught myself to do. I’ve worked in Glasgow for 22 years, the past seven of them owning my own salon and I’ve been running Rebel Rebel since 2008.

When I started there were only three barbers in the city, now it’s more like 15 or 16, with most of them having started up in the past decade, which to my mind shows just how much barbering has come, and is coming, of age within our industry.

I’m, for example, planning to open another salon next year and I fully expect the launch this year of Barbers’ Elite by the NHF will really help to bring barbering centre stage (see panel).

Barbers’ Elite is very overdue, and I know it is something team manager James Beattie has been pushing for for some years.

There is huge potential out there when it comes to the men’s industry. By launching Barbers’ Elite now, the NHF has a definite opportunity to get in there and lead the agenda.

To an extent, however, it’s not that hard to see why attitudes towards barbering have been as they have. Standards of barbering in the past were relatively poor when compared with hairdressing.

PAGE 28 SALONFOCUS JULY/AUGUST 2012

It used to be pretty much short back and sides and that was it, then in the 1960s and 1970s a lot of the trade was killed off by the fashion for long hair.

After that Afro hair and perms grew in popularity so a lot of guys started moving to hairdressers anyway, and the number of barbers dwindled.

In the moment Alan Findlay is owner of Rebel Rebel in Glasgow and has more than 20 years experience as a barber, having qualified from Anne Rogers in Wishaw in 1990.

In 2011 he was a regional finalist in The L’Oréal Professionnel Colour Trophy Men’s Image Award.

He is also a member of the NHF’s new barbering team, Barbers’ Elite.

Things began to turn around in the 1980s when short fashions came back into vogue and things have improved ever since. Now all the ingredients for high-quality barbering are right here; barbering is right in the moment.

Rebel Rebel has 16 staff, five boys and 11 girls, and 90 per cent of our clients are men. We also get a lot of hairdressers now coming to us who want to learn about barbering.

In terms of trends, everything at the moment is tight at the back and the sides and then loads of length on top. That gives you a really good base to develop cuts and styles; you can get three or four styles from the same cut, so it is very versatile. It’s the bob and big fringes, comb-overs, Rockabilly and Teddy Boy hairstyles; it’s all coming back from the 1950s.

You can still, of course, get barbers that are a bit of a conveyor belt with cuts in the £6 to £10 range.

But I do find more men, and especially the 15-35 age range, are becoming prepared to spend more on their appearance.

BARBERING

Become part of Barbers’ Elite

What I have tried to do is to get to around the £15 mark and have the client spend more time in the chair, so perhaps 25-30 minutes rather than 10 minutes in and out, which means you can do around two to three clients an hour.

We do also try to upsell. We offer, for example, a shampoo and beard trim or design for £5-£8. We try to get all staff with their own column and encourage people to build up their client bank.

Barbers’ Elite will be doing a shoot with the Trevor Sorbie Artistic Team in September and, along with NHF Inspire, will be holding auditions on September 24 that will be open to all NHF members, whether salon owner or employee, though employees must have the support of their salon and time to travel.

All entries need to be registered with NHF head office

by July 31. Application forms can be downloaded from www.nhf.info or by calling 0845 3456500 or 01234 831965 or by emailing enquiries@nhf.info

Grooming growth

Male grooming is another big growth area. We have a dedicated grooming room in the salon and have taken on a male beautician. We offer waxing – back, crack and sack! – and we are finding more men spending money on things such as facials. We’re even doing eyebrow and beard threading, which we can offer on top of our core services. Some guys are now spending as much time and effort on how they look as women.

It is also about educating clients. For many men they may not realise the sorts of services that are available, or how they might benefit from them. You can, of course, still get a basic, standard haircut but it is about explaining about the extra, special services that might make their day. A lot of men now just enjoy the pampering side of it.

Retail is probably around 10 per cent of our turnover now, and we are starting to push that more. I really like the Kevin Murphy range; I like his philosophy and think the products are absolutely amazing.

When it comes to retail and marketing product to male clients you do have to do it in a certain way. I find the key – and this may sound obvious – is that you have to use it on their hair; the client has to see that it works and works well.

Men will often have less knowledge about product than women so it can sometimes be a question of explaining things almost from scratch. You have to get into their mindset and almost allow them to justify to themselves the higher price they will probably pay for a salon product.

I think we will see barbering becoming bigger and bigger and cooler and cooler. We will be competing increasingly against hairdressing when it comes to skills and profile. Hairdressing has had the lion’s share of the market for the past 40 years and, as a result, has been able to make huge advances, develop big chains and so on.

But barbering, I think, could expand along the same lines. I think we will see more barbers’ shops coming through and into the limelight in the next four to five years. Watch this space!

www.nhf.info

FOCUS ON VERSATILITY

JULY/AUGUST 2012 SALONFOCUS PAGE 29

ADVICE

Water wiser The fact we have just had one of the wettest springs on record may mean the threat of restrictions being imposed on businesses has eased (for now) but after two bone-dry winters, water-intensive businesses such as hairdressing salons still need to be looking at how they can use water more efficiently and responsibly.

Moreover, water – like any utility – is a cost to your business, especially if you are on a water meter, with heated water being doubly so.

At Genesis we’ve made a point of looking closely and regularly at how we use energy across the board: electricity, heating and water. Perhaps it’s because I was an electrical engineer before I became a hairdresser, but energy is something I am passionate about.

We’ve worked with British Gas to reduce our electricity bills by installing a “smart meter” that monitors our energy use. We do regular surveys to monitor how we’re using energy and what we can do to keep costs down.

Reduce water flow

When it comes to water, we took the decision a few years ago to reduce the flow from our taps and now have water flow regulators on our taps. If you are shampooing for three minutes, or much longer for a perm, it can make a real difference to how much water you use.

It is throwing money away to heat up your water only then to have to cool it down in the basin. So we have ensured water is kept much more at an optimum temperature – and therefore less is used – by introducing a water temperature control.

We have water dams in the toilet cisterns, so they only use the water they need when they are Aaron Mohamed flushed. and his wife Pauline Perhaps the most have run Genesis important thing we’ve World of Hair and done however is simply Beauty in St Ives, education. We’ve made Cambridgeshire, for it a priority to ensure the past 19 years. our staff are aware of

PAGE 30 SALONFOCUS JULY/AUGUST 2012

The immediate threat to businesses from a drought this year has receded, but it still makes sense for a water-intensive sector such as hairdressing to look long and hard at how it can use water more efficiently, says Aaron Mohamed.

How salons can reduce water consumption

RUNNING LOW: TWO DRY WINTERS HAVE PUT WATER USE IN THE SPOTLIGHT

how they use energy and that it is not something just “there”.

Eco warrior

We’ve appointed my niece Leanne to become the salon’s “eco warrior” and champion energy efficiency. She makes it her job to join the dots and keep people aware of this as an issue.

Finally, we make water-use part of our client masterclasses. One of the things we try to show clients who are interested is how to shampoo and condition properly which, when you do it like it’s done in a salon, is normally much more water efficient.

It is possible we will in time see more and more constraints being imposed on our water consumption, whether that’s simply by more metering, higher bills or actual water conservation measures.

On top of this, over the next six or seven years it is anticipated utility bills are only going to go in one direction – up.

So, if you can do relatively simple things to reduce your total energy consumption – of which water is just one key cost – that is going to make a real difference to how your business is doing and the margins it is able to achieve in a difficult economic climate.

It is estimated an average six-seat salon can use around 15,000 litres of water a week, and nearly 4,000 on a busy Saturday alone. Les Marshall, commercial director at Miele Professional, shares his tips on how to cut back.

• Use water-efficient products.

Where practical, always choose water-efficient washing machines, shower heads, toilets and taps.

Look for water efficiency labels.

• Replace your towels. Replace worn-out towels with micro-fibre or bamboo versions. These absorb more, which also helps drying time.

• Upgrade laundry appliances.

Salons can’t avoid processing a lot of laundry every day. But if your washing machine or dryer is more than a decade old, it’s consuming a lot more water than it needs to.

Modern washer-extractors, for example, can accurately control water consumption, automatically adjusting it to load size.

• Review your hot water system.

It costs money to heat water, so consider replacing your old boiler with a hot water system designed specifically for salons. Look for ones with low-density titanium immersion heaters that heat only the water you need.

• Use timers. If you can’t afford to upgrade your boiler, at least ensure your water heaters are fitted with timers that switch off half an hour before the salon closes – this could save you hours off your heating bill.

HEALTH AND SAFETY

Chemical reaction Managing the risks that accompany working with chemicals requires much more than just investing in gloves or aprons, advises Maeve O’Hara.

Hairsprays, hair dyes, hair products, shampoos and conditioners are, of course, the stuff of the hairdresser’s trade and without them any salon would grind to a complete halt.

But the health effects of using these chemical-based products can be significant, both for the client but especially for salon staff whose frequency and length of exposure will be that much greater.

The chemical ingredients in all of the above can cause occupational asthma, dermatitis, lung and skin disorders.

Chemicals can enter in a variety of ways: being breathed in, swallowed, absorbed by the skin and through cuts, punctures and abrasions.

Moreover in a hot, busy salon you can get hairspray in the air mixing with the vapours from hair dye. If there is little fresh air circulating to dissipate substances then everyone can quickly be breathing chemicals into their lungs.

To complicate matters, there are many ways in which a chemical can enter your body without a person even realising it.

Washing the mixture bowls for colour without any gloves can leave a chemical present on your hands. Subsequently grab a quick lunchtime sandwich and you risk accidentally swallowing the substance.

Duty of care

Maeve O’Hara is a consultant for Sypol, provider of the NHF’s Salon Sorted health and safety tool.

www.nhf.info

Reducing and mitigating the risks from exposure to chemicals is much more than simply a case of compliance with health and safety law, it is a duty of care to your staff, your clients and you as the salon owner. It requires constant vigilance, communication and education.

So, what to do? The fact many hair dyes contain Phenylenediamine, a chemical known to cause skin sensitisation, highlights clearly why it is so imperative to insist on patch-testing.

Whenever you gain a new customer or change a hair dye (including toners) you should always provide a patch test, with the recommended time-frame being 48 hours prior to the colouring appointment.

Gloves, too, have a very important place but salon owners should not rely solely on personal protective equipment to mitigate risk.

Health and safety when it comes to chemicals needs to be as much about education and having a healthy respect for the products being used as about protective wear.

You need to be ensuring everyone – all staff using or exposed to chemicals – read and understand the information that comes with your hair products. Suppliers are legally obliged to provide you with safety information on that product.

Aprons, gloves and glasses

You need to make people much more aware of the area they are working in.

Is there enough ventilation to ensure chemicals in the air can disappear? This could mean extraction fans or simply ensuring fresh air is being circulated.

Insisting on fresh air breaks can be a good idea too.

In this context, personal protective equipment is only the final step. Aprons should be worn and skin covered so that skin absorption does not occur.

When mixing chemicals one serious danger is hairdressers get splashes of the substance into their eyes, therefore wearing safety glasses should be considered.

Gloves should be worn in order to minimise the chance of a chemical entering the body through a cut or puncture to the skin.

MIXING COLOUR: WATCH FOR SPLASHING

As an employer any salon owner is required by law to complete a COSHH (Control of Substances Hazardous to Health) risk assessment for every single chemical you have in your premises.

This comprises a risk assessment, exposure scenario and control sheet.

COSHH assessments can be found in the Salon Sorted online health and safety software package. If in doubt, don’t hesitate to use the knowledge and resources of the NHF, including Salon Sorted, to help you deal with managing the safety of your chemicals.

Salon Sorted is available to NHF members for £20 a year plus VAT, with full information available from www.nhf.info/ SalonSorted

If you read nothing else read this…

• Duty of care means constant vigilance, education and communication • Assess staff awareness, culture and salon ventilation • Invest in proper personal protective equipment • Ensure you are compliant with COSHH risk assessment

JULY/AUGUST 2012 SALONFOCUS PAGE 31

COLUMN

Knowledge

Whether it’s through one-to-one mentoring or the power of social media, the value of communicating and passing on your skills and knowledge should never be under-estimated, argues Beverly C. GLOSSY GLAMOUR: WAVE IS THE NEW CURL

Over the past few months I’ve been travelling up and down the UK with my colleague at Goldwell, William Wilson, head of technical and creative direction, mentoring salon owners and teams keen to learn and develop.

It’s been so inspiring, but it also reminded me of just how important learning from others can be to our trade.

The influence of mentors was a hugely important part of my early career and I know I wouldn’t have achieved what I have without the advice, wise counsel and guidance of so many different people.

When you attend shows and seminars involving large groups of people it can leave you feeling inspired and motivated, but such an environment does not necessarily give you the confidence to go away and recreate what you’ve learned.

Social media

If you can give stylists one-to-one attention and the opportunity to practise new skills it can empower them and push them out of their comfort zone.

Suddenly you find people who’ve been doing the same haircuts and colouring techniques for ages are learning again and, often, fired up and desperate to get back behind the chair to try out all their new-found skills.

It’s not a one-way street, either. I’ve been to some fascinating places, from the tip of Scotland to the coast of Devon, and it’s really energised me.

As regular readers will know, I’m creative director for BaByliss and I’ve had a busy time over the last few months shooting fabulous imagery and

PAGE 32 SALONFOCUS JULY/AUGUST 2012

Photography: Paul Scala Make-up: Jamie Thomas (Frank Agency

transfer

working on various launch glamour wave or a campaigns. sexy, loose and lovely One area I’ve really beach-style version; it’s enjoyed learning more all about wave, not curl, about in the process is which is the texture social media. I remember of the season. Get upnot so long ago when to-date with the latest the only way to get your waving techniques and message out to consumers the tools and products was by getting articles and to help you get the imagery featured in printed look.

Hairdressing icon Beverly magazines and newspapers, Haircuts are graphic C has twice won the or getting onto TV or radio. and structured but British Hairdresser Now, of course, social featuring a quirky accent of the Year Award media is proving to be to soften. Asymmetric and she was the first amazingly popular and fringes and shapes have female hairdresser to be effective. made their way from awarded an MBE. She is Through BaByliss, I’ve the industry to the high a brand ambassador for been spending time with street, so a lot of the cuts Goldwell and BaByliss, some top-rated bloggers, we’ve been learning we and is a regular face on whose regular online can now adapt for our TV and in the press. commentary has become a clients. really powerful PR tool.

Short and bobbed They aren’t paid to write hair is big news… which what they do, don’t rely on advertising is great news for us! Hair ups and evening and often have many regular followers looks are similarly structured and strong who really respect their opinions, with a classic, vintage feel. Use product meaning it’s great when they choose to and your fingers to add a modern edge. write about what you’re passionate about.

All-over colour is big news this I’ve also been filming “how-to-getseason, but made up of a couple of the-look” videos to illustrate their posts, complementary tones that are muted and but which can also be uploaded onto beautifully blended.

Facebook, Twitter and YouTube. Exciting Try petrol blue-green with black or stuff! very dark hair, copper with red and pink and lilac with blonde.

It’s all about embracing the colour Waves, not curls trend but avoiding harsh or ugly clashing Finally, here’s my snapshot of the top colours. So, why not try some new things, trends we will be seeing this summer. add to your skill-set and most of all just Wave is the new curl… whether have fun! it’s a glossy, forties- and fifties-inspired

EVENTS NHF EVENTS OTHERS Please send your events to the NHF at enquiries@nhf. info by July 2 for September/ October, September 3 for November/December and 1 November for January/ February. Updated events listed on www.nhf.info

12

OCT Deadline for nominations for Britain’s Best Click ‘n’ Send Head of the Year Photographic Competition Contact www.britainsbest.me

9 15

JULY Southern Region Jubilee Fantasy Ball, Chilworth Manor Contact Julie Wells on 01932 844463 or email juliewells72@me.com

NOV Deadline for nominations for Britain’s Best floor competition Contact www.britainsbest.me

18

NOV Britain’s Best Competition Hilton Metropole Hotel, Birmingham Contact NHF head office on 01234 831965 or 0845 3456500

14

SEPT Deadline for nominations for Britain’s Best Text Vote Popularity Poll Contact www.britainsbest.me

17

SEPT British Hairdressing Business Awards, Lancaster Hotel, London Contact: www.hji. co.uk/events/britishhairdressing-business

29 - 5

SEPT OCT Ian Egerton Cape Cod charity ride for HABB, Contact www.justgiving.com/ Ian-Egerton

7/8

OCT Annual General Meeting and Conference Hilton Cardiff, Kingsway Contact NHF head office on 0845 345 6500

www.nhf.info

12

NOV Cheshire Championships Romiley Forum Theatre, Stockport Contact Michael Burgum on 0161 220 7375

26

NOV British Hairdressing Awards, Grosvenor House Hotel, London Contact: 020 8652 8845 or daniel.eversfield@ rbi.co.uk

JULY/AUGUST 2012 SALONFOCUS PAGE 33

TRIBUTE

The Vidal

As every hairdresser will (or should) know by now, hairdressing icon Vidal Sassoon died in May. His reputation will undoubtedly live on, but he was also a man who inspired many NHF members personally. SalonFocus has gathered some of their recollections.

“I met Vidal at the Global Hairdresser Awards in Barcelona in 2006. I was completely star-struck of course, but he was very modest and approachable, in fact he seemed quite shy. I remember we talked about hairdressing and he agreed that training seemed to be getting less and less. He was of the view it took about nine years to make a hairdresser – and he is completely right. He will be sadly missed.”

Victor Pajak, Headquarters Hair Salon, Kingston upon Thames

“I wrote a letter to Vidal in 2005 when he was guest-hosting The Alternative Hair Show at The Royal Albert Hall explaining how I had attended a Wella hair show in Hull in 1962 where he had been demonstrating. I thanked Vidal for the inspiration I gained from the demonstration and how it had enabled me to enjoy a wonderful career in a job I love. I didn’t think Vidal would have the time to read my letter. But four weeks later I received a reply from him in LA thanking me! To me, this was the mark of the man, as a fellow hairdresser. He was a hairdresser’s hairdresser, rather than putting himself on a pedestal. Needless to say, I treasure my letter.”

Michael Peckett Hairdressing, Altrincham

PAGE 34 SALONFOCUS JULY/AUGUST 2012

we knew “I had the pleasure of enjoying the company of Vidal Sassoon at a truly wonderful Great Ormond Street charity event organised by Michael Van Clarke. What a truly lovely man.”

Shannon Rodrigues, PHAB Studio, Maidstone, Kent

“I had the great pleasure of working for Vidal Sassoon for 15 years. During the 1990s I spent a lot of time travelling and promoting his brand in Asia.

The photo shows us on a rare day off at the North/ South Korean border. His schedule was so full but he knew we had been working hard to prep a TV show, so he made arrangements for us to have a day out.

We had the full works, armoured car, bodyguard and a bottle of champagne for the trip. The next day, as we worked on the TV show, live on air he started demonstrating his yoga techniques to the audience; they squealed with delight and clapped madly as he rocked back and forth grasping his toes. He never looked happier! One of the great things about Vidal was his joy of life, his constant fascination with the new and undiscovered. His duty of care and consideration to others was his most outstanding quality and his legacy. He will be sadly missed.”

Callam Warrington, Wonderland, West Kirby

“I was fortunate enough to meet Vidal on a few occasions, having formerly held the position of colour director at the London academy. He was a true gentleman. What I liked most was his body language; he was so interested in individuals, passing on his passion for hairdressing regardless of status. Rest in Peace VS.” Christiano Lanza, Lanza Hairdressing, Loughborough