May/June 2010 | ÂŁ3.50
The ESSENTIAL magAZINE for Salon Owners
World Hairdressing Championships Special
Lifestyle Probe
Abandoned
Art of Drying Chemicals Essentials Sassoon Mentors Inspire
distance relation between sash and corner flexible. size relation between sash and corner NOT flexible.
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Wavelength
Devine irony
One of the first rules of journalism is to steer clear of describing things as “ironic”. It is one of the most misused words in the English language, frequently written to describe a situation that is not ironic at all. However, I had to guffaw a little when the Crown Prosecution Service announced that Livingston MP Jim Devine had been charged under Section 17 of the Theft Act 1968 for false accounting over allegations he falsely claimed parliamentary expenses. The irony is that Devine was one of the members of the Scottish Affairs Committee (SAC) to which NHF secretary general Eileen Lawson and Martin Couchman, deputy chief executive of the British Hospitality Association, gave evidence a year ago about the national minimum wage. He was, how shall we put it, a little forceful during the session, I understand, and made clear his support of “naming and shaming” those who failed to comply with national minimum wage (NMW) legislation. The committee went on to recommend the government name and shame employers even where non-compliance was inadvertent. Interesting to note then that Devine was said to be “absolutely devastated” by the news he had been accused of dishonestly claiming for cleaning services and stationery and denied any wrongdoing. I wonder if his view of “naming and shaming” even for inadvertent breach of NMW legislation will now change. We live in a country where everyone is innocent until proven guilty. I am sure the right honourable gentleman will put up a rigorous defence and, indeed, may well be exonerated. And good luck to him, I say. All the same, isn’t it ironic?
Hanging on the telephone
The competitive benefits of an open market for telecommunications services, gas and electricity have been outweighed by service issues – at least, that is my personal experience. They are not all terrible at it and I have had good experiences as well as bad, but why do they make it so difficult if you want to enquire about something that does not apparently tick their “options” boxes. Press one for stress, press two for joy, press three to speak to someone in Outer Mongolia, press four to be cut off. You have all been there, I know.
www.nhf.info
Consumers are a lucky lot with the full weight of legal protections behind them but if you are a business, you can whistle. I have just started to calm down after wasting about an hour-and-a-half of my life trying to get my phone company to look at the option of transferring one of my lesser used belt-and-braces telephone lines to residential or negotiate a lower business line rental fee. For a company that was famous for saying “It’s good to talk”, they left me wanting to tell them to “Buzby off” or set Maureen Lipman on them after hanging on the telephone for a terribly long time with only a repetitious recorded “sorry we’re terribly busy today” message, or something to that effect, driving me to despair. Can you imagine salons giving a service like that? They would lose customers in an instant. The problem when you are a small business is that the fear of any temporary downtime or even disconnection makes us reticent to change suppliers because we want our businesses to keep running smoothly. While I frequently hear from members about problems they have had with energy suppliers, I rarely hear about issues with telecommunications companies. I know I am not alone out there so if you have any telecommunications horror stories, I’d love to hear from you. Email me at sfeditor@salonfocus.co.uk.
And finally
The run-up to the nation going to the polls on May 6 is an ideal time to lobby local candidates so do please ensure you tackle them about the CuttheVAT campaign (www.cutthevat.org) to achieve a 5% rate of VAT for hairdressing services (see page 8), your gripes about national minimum wage legislation, national insurance and other taxation issues and much-needed protections for small and micro businesses. It ain’t all over until it’s over so make your views count. They want your vote so you will have a receptive audience.
Andrew Don Editor
MAY/JUNE 2010 SALONFOCUS PAGE 3
Front cover – Hair: NHF Inspire, creative direction: Akin Konizi and the hob creative team, photography: John Rawson, make-up: Lucie Flowers, styling: Graham Cruz.
Our coNTRIBUTORS
contents
GILLIAN DOWLING works for Croner as employment technical consultant. p 21
MICHAEL BARNES, of Michael Barnes Hairdressing, in Shaftesbury Avenue, London, is a specialist in bridal hair, long hair and extensions.
JACKIE LANG has been managing director of Regis UK since 2008. She is responsible for 450 salons which include Regis’s UK branches and Vidal Sassoon in the UK, Germany and the USA.
SIMON SHAW is the co-founder and past director of international award-winning salon group Haringtons. He runs Simon Shaw Education.
PUBLISHER Eileen Lawson BSc FCIS FRSA e: eileen.lawson@nhf.info EDITOR Andrew Don e: sfeditor@salonfocus.co.uk
p 24
p33
NEWS
5 The end of the road for Lifestyle probe 6 Safety paramount, NHF tells members; covenants advice 8 Walker calls on politicians for change; HMRC leaves it out 9 New skin kit launched 10 Lifeline advises on sickies 12 Ombudsman can make PRS sing new tune; Dickenson lands Inspire role 13 Social networking alert 14 Chemicals bible – all you need to know about what’s inside the products you use
FEATURES
22 Simon’s Shaw about newsletters 24-25 Long view – Barnes extends 26 Buying right – the Regis way 28-29 Hairdrying adored
INSPIRED
18-21 Countdown to Paris – a World Hairdressing Championships exclusive
PAGE 4 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2010
BEVERLY C has been twice-winner of the British Hairdresser of the Year Award and she was the first female hairdresser to be awarded an MBE. She is ambassador for both Goldwell and Babyliss, and a regular face on TV and in the press.
ANGELA BARTLETT is chairman of the British Association of Beauty Therapy & Cosmetology and the Confederation of International Beauty Therapy & Cosmetology.
ADEE PHELAN is an awardwinning hair stylist, who rose to fame on Channel 4’s The Salon. He is a favourite with a host of celebrity clients. His eponymous salon is in Covent Garden in London’s West End.
BEAUTY
10 Beauty spots 33 Art for nails’ sake
REGULARS
03 Wavelength – the editor’s voice 13 Movers & Groovers 15 Cutting Brief solves your legal issues 16-17 Federation Focus – Masefield and Sassoon work with NHF Inspire; the latest news from the areas and branches 30 Beverly C campaigns on hair loss 32 Events for your diary 34 Backwash – a look on the light side; NEC Factor – John Armstrong and Ann Goddard
SALONFOCUS IS PUBLISHED BY: National Hairdressers’ Federation, One Abbey Court, Fraser Road, Priory Business Park, Bedford MK44 3WH t: 0845 345 6500 t: 01234 831965 f: 01234 838875 e: sfenquiries@salonfocus.co.uk w: www.nhf.info
BRIAN PLUNKETT is a trichologist and managing director of Trichocare Diagnostics, the manufacturer of the Colourstart generic skinallergy test.
EVENTS Tina Beaumont t: 0845 345 6500 e: tina.beaumont@nhf.info
AD SALES Mainline Media Ltd The Barn, Oakley Hay Lodge Business Park, Great Oakley, Northants NN18 9AS t: +44 (0) 1536 747333 f: +44 (0) 1536 746565 w: www.mainlinemedia.co.uk Advertising Sales Manager Tricia McDougall e: tricia.mcdougall@mainlinemedia.co.uk Advertising Production Manager Craig Barber e. craig.barber@mainlinemedia.co.uk DESIGN & PRODUCTION Quercus Eight t: 020 7655 0370 e: studio@quercuseight.co.uk While every care is taken in compiling this issue of SalonFocus including manuscripts and photographs submitted, we accept no responsibility for any losses or damage, whatever the cause. All information and prices contained in advertisements are accepted by the publishers in good faith as being correct at the time of going to press. Neither the advertisers nor the publishers accept any responsibility for any variations affecting price variations or availability after the publication has gone to press. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the permission of the publisher, to whom application must first be made. The views expressed by contributors to SalonFocus are not necessarily those of the NHF, the publisher or its editor. © 2010 The National Hairdressers’ Federation. Material for consideration in this section of the magazine should be submitted on CD-ROM as high resolution jpeg or tiff files to The Editor, SalonFocus. Submissions should be made on the understanding that the National Hairdressers’ Federation has the right to use the material in any part of the magazine and any of its other publications, promotions or website, free from any copyright restrictions, or appearance fees other than the issue of artistic and photographic credits where applicable. Please include salon name, photographer & stylist.
News
for today’s Salon owner
Lifestyle TV probe
ditched
allows in some circumstances for a claim against the leasing house for a misrepresentation or breach of contract by a supplier, does stopped paying instalments. not apply in the present cirThe Official Receiver’s Office has “My consistent advice is to cumstances as the leasing abandoned its investigation into Lifecontinue paying the leasing house and legal owner are style TV, disappointing scores of credicompany. Unless you believe one and the same entity.” tors who will get only a tiny sum from Julian Sampson “Continue to pay while you are on very sure footOne salon owner, Jayne the remnants. you resolve your case.” ing about the circumstances Lifestyle TV, supplier of a diamond Sansom, of Serenity, in leading up to the agreement, crystal mirror system, including televiAtherstone, Warwickshire, sion screens, in-salon channels and pro- there is only one winner. They can sue had just been issued with a court sumgramming, was wound up last summer. you for the whole amount. mons for the recovery of £11,500 for “In most cases the screens still Complaints from salon owners six screens when SalonFocus called her. work – so continue to pay while you ranged from alleged fraud to misrepre“I stopped paying four or five months resolve your individual case and take sentation, non-delivery and the supply ago,” she said. legal advice because there are many of non-functioning equipment. Cambridgeshire-based Molbys is in firms that can assist or there will be The Official Receiver’s Office, which dispute with another company, Simply advice through schemes looked into why the comMedia, which acquired the assets of available with groups such pany failed as well as the Vision TV two years ago (SalonFocus “ Many salons as the NHF.” conduct of its directors, May-June 2008). Molbys maintains Viare battling Wright & Wright briefed said it had discovered sion TV promised verbally that adver“nothing that would with finance a barrister who concluded tising commission would pay for the she could see no obvious cause alarm” so the invesscreens but no payments were forthcompanies way of attacking the agree- coming. tigation was abandoned. to get out ments with the finance Linda Parkinson, Simply Media managing director firms on the basis of misrep- Patrick Smart said he recognised the investigating case officer, of lease resentation and breach of said an “agent” had been difficulty some salons had got into with contracts.” contract. appointed to recover an Vision TV and the leasing companies There was some potenestimated £13,000 worth but his company was providing a good tial under consumer credit service to salon customers, regularly of equipment from “an regulations but only in limited circumupdating content. employee”, with a view to resale and stances surrounding whether the agree“No one can say we haven’t done the proceeds could be shared equally ment was signed for business purposes the best we can to make sure whatever between the 63 creditors. or not, and this was largely restricted to people have signed up to that it works Many salons are still battling with mistakes made by the leasing company. and they get something out of it. If they finance companies to get out of lease However, allegations raised by salons are unhappy, we can’t just tear up the contracts which they had not always of false signatures added should be agreement. appreciated they were taking on. investigated. “If evidence can be found “It’s a vicious circle when you’ve got Julian Sampson, partner of legal to support these allegations the agreecowboys and Indians messing it up for firm Wright & Wright, who is helping ments would be unenforceable,” the legitimate businesses like us. It could several salons, identified three types of barrister said. be a very good business but it’s been case: those where Lifestyle TV repreShe also said that the thrust of the tainted. It’s something we just have to sentatives had been allegedly “blatantly case law was in favour of finance comdeal with.” fraudulent”; potential civil claims for panies and prevented them being made revenue that had been promised from advertising that never materialised; and responsible for the acts of the dealer as their agent. civil actions where the promised service “Statute was intended to obviate had not continued. these common law difficulties. Section Sampson said leasing companies 75 of the Consumer Credit Act, which were starting to sue salons that had
www.nhf.info
MAY/JUNE 2010 SALONFOCUS PAGE 5
News
Salons told
The NHF has reminded members that they must put safety, skill and professionalism above all else in keeping with its regulations and Professional Conduct Code of Ethical Behaviour. Eileen Lawson, secretary general, said clients should feel they were in
‘put safety first’
Code of Conduct Members shall always place the welfare of the client before all other considerations and shall behave in a proper manner towards colleagues and shall not bring them or the Craft of Hairdressing into disrepute. Guidelines These Guidelines will be used as a means of interpreting the Code. The Guidelines are not exclusive; they set out the principles of proper professional attitude and conduct. 1.
Professional Integrity
It is the over-riding and continuing responsibility of all members to place the welfare of their clients before all other considerations, and to apply to each client the full extent of their skill and knowledge. All members should arrange suitable and adequate insurance for the indemnity of clients. 2.
Client Relationship
OF TION is a personal service and members should do everything possible to THE RULES Hairdressing FEDERA RESSERS’ promote and preserve their clients' confidence in them, and in the Craft of NAL HAIRD Hairdressing. In particular, the application of traditional courtesies and practises in THE NATIO LIMITED relation to clients and between colleagues should be observed. ) iety Soc nt 3. Advertising and Publicity ial and Provide (An Industr
All advertising and publicity should be undertaken in a manner so as not to deceive or mislead the public, or denigrate the Craft of Hairdressing. If the name of another hairdresser or hairdressing establishment is to be mentioned, then the prior consent of that hairdresser or establishment should be obtained.
MEMBERS
LATIONS
HIP REGU
4.
Premises and Equipment
The premises and equipment of members should be such as to enable them to properly exercise their skills and sustain a proper professional relationship with clients. All legislation regarding premises, health and safety should be observed. Premises and equipment should be kept clean at all times, and regularly and properly maintained. Sterilisation and hygiene arrangements for instruments and linen should be of an exemplary standard, particularly for those items in direct contact with clients. 5.
Education and Training
There is a duty on all hairdressers to maintain and expand their competence, to help and support trainees in their charge, and to consider submitting themselves for higher qualifications.
13/10/2009 vaf/nhf30/09/2009 vaf/nhf
13/10/2009
09 vaf/nhf
vaf/nhf30/09/20
safer hands when using NHF-member salons because of the high professional standards the Federation demanded and nurtured. The NHF’s code demands the welfare of clients should be paramount; that salons should not bring themselves or the craft of hairdressing into disrepute; they should be suitably and adequately insured and there is a duty on all hairdressers to maintain and expand their competence. Harry Walker, president, said NHF members aspired to operate to the “highest standards”. He said the public could be confident that when they used an NHF-member
salon, their hairdresser had their best interests at heart. Mark Coray, vicepresident, said that every so often the media highlighted examples of where hairdressing treatments had gone wrong. “I urge all clients to check that the salon they want to visit is an NHF member. An NHF-member salon is never far away and clients can be sure that any chemical and colour treatments offered are done in accordance with the strictest industry guidelines,” he said. • The NHF’s regulations and code can be found on the new website at www.nhf.info.
7
1
Courts get tough on
restrictive covenants Restrictive covenants are becoming more difficult to enforce as courts get tougher on the contracts that salon owners rely on. The NHF has noticed that courts are increasingly more sympathetic towards employees in such cases. Restrictions on an employee’s behaviours will commonly be included within their contract of employment. Clauses included in the standard NHF staff handbook include not working for themselves or anyone else at the same time; not to copy or disclose any confidential information to third parties, not to encourage any other employees to work elsewhere or not to divert clients to a competitor. A duty on the employee may be still implied even where there is no specific clause within a contract because of the position which they hold. Specific mention, however, within the contract will mean the employee will have little defence. These covenants will often also act as
PAGE 6 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2010
By Basil Long
an initial deterrent to any existing employees and prevent any need for litigation. Once the employee leaves you they owe no such duty to the business, entitling them to contact clients or your employees and try to entice them away from you. You would need to have included within the contract of employment some post-termination restrictive covenants to prevent this. The courts will be reluctant to enforce any post-termination restriction unless it can be shown that such a covenant was reasonable to prevent any damage occurring to your business because it would prevent someone from earning a living. Courts will not act just to prevent competition. Enforcement will only be possible if the employee was made aware of the covenants, which should either be included within the contract of employment, or clearly flagged up within the staff handbook or other policy documents. The covenants must be reasonable at
the time they are put in place. The courts will take into account several factors such as how long the restriction is in force; how wide an area the restriction covers; what position or role the employee had; and what type of work is being restricted, to decide what is reasonable. Courts will be unlikely to enforce any covenant affecting someone you have made redundant if it prevents them working elsewhere or setting up in competition. Finally, you would need to show that a breach of the covenants would cause real damage to the business either by directly taking customers or staff or by damaging the reputation. The standard NHF contract of employment contains several restrictive covenants which are reasonable for a stylist under most circumstances. • Find out how to enforce restrictive covenants in the next issue of SalonFocus.
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News
Cutthe Walker:
‘Change must come’ Harry Walker marked the end of the
economic slump by calling on political leaders to make the further changes necessary to cement continued growth and prosperity. Walker reminded chancellor Alistair Darling and Tory opposite number George Osborne that the reduction of VAT for hairdressing services to 5 per cent would be a sure-fire way of propelling growth in the sector while embracing more salons into the VAT system, thereby increasing government revenues overall. He also cautioned the Conservatives against the much speculated on increase in the overall rate of VAT to 20
red tape and convoluted per cent should they form legal requirements and the next government. result in increased sector Walker said this would profitability.” dramatically hit disposWalker said the NHF able incomes and money would continue to lobby destined for salon tills. government to ensure “The opportunity exists it put in place measures now for the governMARK HENDRICK MP: that were of benefit to ment to nurture growth. “Other ways to This can be achieved help hairdressers.” the hairdressing sector and that would facilitate by taking the NHF-led sustained growth. cross-industry CuttheVAT campaign Support for CuttheVAT, meanwhile, on board and pledging to implement its stipulations in the lifetime of the next continues to grow. Mark Hendrick, MP Parliament, as permitted by European for Preston, wrote to Andree Buxton, finance ministers on the Economic and of Flame Hair Design, in Preston, Lancashire, that he found the suggestion Financial Affairs Council last year,” of reduced VAT for hairdressing busiWalker said. nesses “of interest”. He said there may “The government can also help also be other means to help hairdressby not pricing apprentices out of the ers through changes in taxation, tax market which is a great risk with the thresholds and grants which needed to forthcoming absorption of apprenbe explored. tices into the national minimum wage structure (See page 9). Simplification Wayne Hill and Tracy Taylor, ownof regulations in general would help ers of the Broad St Group chain of five eliminate some of the costs incurred salons in the South West of England, on our members forced to navigate emailed the NHF to say a reduction to 5 per cent would mean it could invest in its training and development programme for trainees, knowing it could offer them secure employment when their training had finished.
HMRC reliability called into question The reliability of official information circulated by Her Majesty Revenue & Customs (HMRC) has
been called into question after the government tax collecting body withheld a crucial piece of information about employer annual returns. It circulated a press release in which it said all employer annual returns must be submitted online by May 19 and there was no longer a paper option for those with fewer than
PAGE 8 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2010
50 staff in the tax year 2009-2010. Only employers with 50 employees or more had to previously file online. “So, if you file your return on paper, even if it’s before May 19, you could receive a penalty,” the press release said. An HMRC spokesman later told SalonFocus that although those employers with between one and five employees would receive “a penalty notice”, the penalty for this year was zero, a crucial fact left out of the press release. But they
would technically be in “default”, they would be sent a letter informing them of this and it would be noted on their record. The spokesman said although this was omitted from the press release, the details were available online. The NHFpointed out that this was essential information that should not have been left off the press release. Eileen Lawson, NHF secretary general, said: The availability of all the correct information online
is just not good enough because people will rely on the paper communications they receive. The big question is can we ever rely on HMRC to tell us all we need to know in the future?” HMRC is making free software available to those firms with fewer than 10 employees to file their returns. Employers with fewer than 50 employees who ceased operating PAYE during the 2009-10 tax year were able to submit a paper return if they did so by April 5 this year.
Herb UK’s colours can now be tested for allergy at home
Hair Clips NMW rates announced
A National Minimum Wage of £2.50 for apprentices takes effect from October for the first time. It applies to under 19s and for the first year for apprentices aged 19 and older. The adult minimum will rise from £5.80 to £5.93, the Youth Development rate from £4.83-£4.92 and, for 16-17 year-olds, from £3.57 to £3.64.
Suites you
The NHF has produced a new suite of independent contractor licences and leases since the courts have drip-fed changes in their interpretation of what can be exempt from VAT in chair renting arrangements and their precise nature. The agreements can be bought from head office at an introductory price of £50 each.
Open all hours
The average duration of each call to the Legal Lifeline was 12.4 minutes last year, data collated from Croner, which operates the service has shown. More calls were logged at the beginning of the year, when the question of redundancy frequently came up, than at the end of the year. The busiest time was 10am11am, the busiest day was Tuesday and Friday was the quietest. Members called all almost hours of the day and night. Some 50 calls were made between midnight and 8am and 706 calls between 6pm and midnight.
Maternity stops
The NHF has called on the government to pull out all the stops to stop the Pregnant Workers Directive
being enshrined in law. The NHF believes salons will not
www.nhf.info
be able to manage the extra administrative burden on them and the inevitable oncosts. The UK government hopes to get the plan that would effectively treble statutory maternity pay in the UK overturned.
Fit notes
The new “fit-notes” system was scheduled to come into force from last month. Fit notes replace traditional sick notes. Doctors will be able to advise if a patient “may be fit for work” and offer advice on the effects of their health condition. Doctors have the option to advise that patients would be able to work, subject to the employer’s agreement, if temporary changes such as reduced working hours or amended duties can be accommodated. Visit http:// www.dwp.gov.uk/fitnote/ for guidance.
Tweedale honoured Yorkshire Area Council honoured Merlyn Tweedale
on his retirement with a presentation lunch at Hazlewood Castle to commemorate 20 years service as area secretary and treasurer.
Herb launches home kit Organic colour systems company Herb UK has launched a skin-sensitivity home-testing kit for salons to post to clients in recognition that testing in-salon before colour application is not always practical. The company has also issued a nine-point questionnaire: regular clients must have a sensitivity test if they answer yes to any of the questions. All new clients must be tested and regular clients tested at least once every six months. Raoul Perfitt, managing director, said the company had listened to salons who had told them they lost business when clients were not prepared to come in for a test 48 hours before a colour service. Now the client fills in a card confirming their hometest results using the exact colour that they would use in the salon. “Some of the generic skin tests that salons post only test for PPD allergy when in fact clients could be allergic to more innocuous ingredients such as coconut oil,” Perfitt said. “It was only with the launch of the kit that we put into writing the re-test recommendation for six months. We keep a close eye on research in this area.” He pointed out that it was the opinion of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Products in Europe that in some cases clients could be sensitised by the repeated frequent application of a colour skin test.
MAY/JUNE 2010 SALONFOCUS PAGE 9
News
Sickie calls prompt Lifeline advice
Calls to the Legal Lifeline about how to tackle “sickies” has prompted the service to issue NHF members with advice on dealing with suspicions of dubious sickness absence. Suspicions have been raised when staff have been spotted shopping, at the pub or posting entries on their Facebook page when supposedly unwell. Amy Pearce, a senior employment consultant at Croner, which operates the Legal Lifeline, warned about the difficulty proving employees were faking it and stressed the importance of thorough investigation. This included getting statements from those claiming to have seen the member of staff undertaking activities which suggested they were not ill, or copies of any incriminating posts on social networking sites, for example. Employers should hold an investigative meeting with the employee on their return to discuss why they were absent, giving them the opportunity to explain. Pearce said salon owners should be aware of any long-term conditions from which employees suffered and consider that they may have been unable to work although able to carry out the other activities that may have raised suspicion. “Someone suffering from depression, for example, might have gone shopping to help them deal with their illness but might genuinely have felt unable to attend work,” she said. It might not be appropriate to take any formal action in such circumstances because it could expose the employer to a claim of disability discrimination. Medical evidence might help in such cases, she said. Once employers had completed their investigation, they needed to consider how to deal with the situation – whether disciplinary action was warranted or whether it could be dealt with informally. An informal response might
PAGE 10 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2010
amount to a warning that any further similar issues would be dealt with via the disciplinary procedure. Pearce explained that employees could be guilty of gross misconduct if they had taken sufficient time off work to qualify for statutory sick pay if they were not genuinely sick and entitled to the payment. She said if an employer decided to take disciplinary action, the person who investigated the absence should not chair the hearing so that they complied with the Acas code of practice on disciplinary and grievance procedures. Pearce acknowledged that this may not be possible in the smallest salons in which there was an owner and no one else in a management position. In such circumstances, should the matter result in a tribunal claim, the employer’s size and administrative resource would be taken into account when considering whether or not they had acted reasonably or complied with the Acas code of practice. It was always advisable to adjourn the disciplinary hearing to give the employer time to consider what was said and what disciplinary sanction would be appropriate. “The decision must be confirmed in writing and the employee be given the opportunity to appeal. The employee Sunbed ban should be reminded of The Sunbed (Regulation) the standards expected Bill was passed in the “washof them and the conseup” session of parliament. quences of not meeting It brings England and Wales those standards,” Pearce into line with Scotland which bans under-18s using said. sunbeds. The NHF adopted • The NHF’s Legal a policy two years ago in Lifeline received 16,636 which it advised members calls last year from to ban under-18s. members seeking help Beauty emails at a cost of £20 a time. Some 14.5 per cent of the CuttheVAT Beauty salons have started calls were about conduct registering their support issues, 12.6 per cent, for the NHF-led CuttheVAT campaign. If you redundancy, 12 per cent, have not registered your absence and sickness, support yet, please email 11.4 per cent disciplinary info@cutthevat.org. and 9.3 per cent terms and conditions.
Beauty Spots
Make-up ignorance
Eighty-one per cent of women in a survey by Debenhams said they went to sleep at least once a week without removing make-up. Sixty-eight per cent of women only replaced make-up and skincare when they ran out. Eighty-nine percent were unaware that cosmetics had a shelf-life.
Plump it up
Full lips really do make you look younger, a Unileverfunded study has shown. A seductive pout negates even wrinkles, bags, sagging jowls and greying hair, the study at seven universities found.
Transgenderfriendly
Sterex, expert in hair removal, is building a national list of electrologists happy to treat transgendered clients. Practitioners can contact Sterex for free inclusion on the list.
Barking up the right tree
A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology claims that an extract from the bark of the South American rainforest Angico-branco tree can help moisturise skin.
OCS
Organic Colour Systems 16 years ahead of the game
We’ve never: used ammonia used animal ingredients tested on animals used resorcinol used napthol used parabens Ammonia-free permanent hair colour, proven in salons around the world for 16 years For further information, please visit www.organiccoloursystems.com or call Herb UK on 01590 613490 Organic Colour Systems is a brand name and there is no EU standard for organic hair colour. OCS does contain selected certified organic ingredients.
Not to be missed in your next issue of SalonFocus:
• Colour trends for autumn • The right music for the right salon • Using IT to boost efficiency To advertise please contact Tricia Mcdougall t: +44 (0) 1536 747333 f: +44 (0) 1536 746565 e: tricia.mcdougall@mainlinemedia.co.uk Ad deadline for July/August Issue Monday 7th June, 2010
www.nhf.info
MAY/JUNE 2010 SALONFOCUS PAGE 11
News
Ombudsman
can make PRS change its tune Ombudsman Services has
expressed disappointment that hairdressing salons have so far failed to ask it to investigate complaints against PRS for Music. Lewis Shand Smith: “We want your complaints.”
Its comments came as Phonographic Performance Limited, an-
other music licensing body, confirmed it, too, was planning a similar ombudsman service although no launch date had been finalised when SalonFocus went to press. Ombudsman Services, a not-for-profit limited company that runs four private sector ombudsman schemes, launched its PRS complaints-resolution service last summer. Yet there would appear to be a lack of awareness of its existence not just among the salon sector but other business sectors, too. Lewis Shand Smith, chief ombudsman, said he had not realised there was a lack of awareness of the scheme but conceded: “We’ve had no contact from hairdressing salons. That is disappointing. The scheme is very new which is probably one reason.” He said it was not the Ombudsman Service’s job to publicise the facility. “It is up to PRS to make sure anyone who makes a complaint knows they have the
PAGE 12 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2010
right to go to the ombudsman.” Salons can appeal to the ombudsman if they have made a complaint to PRS for Music and it has not been satisfactorily resolved within eight weeks. The ombudsman has a legal right to ask PRS for Music to make a goodwill award of up to £5,000 where appropriate and it has the power to take the organisation to court to force compliance. PRS for Music spokesman Barney Hooper said the ombudsman had received no complaints because no cases had to be referred yet. It is a legal requirement for any business that plays or performs music outside of the home environment to have a PRS licence under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. Another licence, from Photographic Performance Ltd, is also required for disbursement of royalties to performers and record companies.
Inspire
Rebecca Dickenson
Dickenson believes every personality is different and so finding the right way to motivate and inspire each individual is essential to getting the Rebecca Dickenson, most out of them. owner of Doncaster’s “My challenge is to find Vanilla Rooms salon, has been named Wendy Cum- new and exciting ways to motivate, inspire and mins’ replacement as art educate” she said. director of NHF Inspire. • Turn to page 16 for She opened her salon details of NHF Inspire’s new five years ago with busiVidal Sassoon mentors. ness partner John Bogg.
gets new art director
Tweet social networkers carefully, advise solicitors Disgruntled hairdressers are increasingly using social networking sites such as Facebook and Twitter to be derogatory about their bosses, the NHF’s Legal Lifeline has warned. The legal service has dealt with numerous enquiries about negative comments left about employers or colleagues, risking the salon’s reputation and friction between colleagues. Most posts are left outside of employees’ working hours and can only be viewed by their group of friends which Croner, the lifeline’s operator, says can make it difficult and risky to take disciplinary action. Also there may arguably have been no detrimental effect on the business. The Employment Tribunal found in one case two years ago, for example, that an employee of a large retailer who was summarily dismissed for making negative comments about their employer on a private blog was unfairly dismissed. Croner says employers will need to show they had acted fairly and reasonably and that any decision to dismiss had not been a knee-jerk reaction. Employers could hold informal discussions with the employee and suggest that inappropriate posts be removed although enforcing this could prove difficult. Many small businesses are now recognising the potential benefits of social networking sites by forming a small group of contacts to generate interest in the business, offer discounts and promotions with a view to encouraging loyalty. While this can be a useful PR tool, it can create difficulties in terms of controlling that information and preventing former and current employees alike from using those contacts for their personal gain (SalonFocus March/April 2010 ).
www.nhf.info
Movers &
Groovers Always on a Sundae
Covent Garden salon owner Karine Jackson has created the Ice Cream Sundae, a technique which results in slices or rinses of lavender, lemon, ice blue, grey or lilac put through the hair.
Konizi lifts Gravity
There are several Veck educates contractual restrictions Oxfordshire-based salon owner Anne Veck in place for employees accepted an invitation from signed up to NHF standLoughborough College to ard employment terms educate 25 hairdressing and conditions which department staff members prevent employees from and Level 3 hairdressing students in Avant Garde soliciting clients, staff styling and Advanced and setting up in direct Cutting techniques. competition during their employment and a six Johns is X Bickley, Kent, salon Claus & month period after their Co’s Kirsty Johns was named employment has been the new Umberto Giannini terminated. Project X Student of the Any employee, who Year. Project X students are acts in breach of one of marked throughout the year on all the key aptitudes these contractual restrictions, would be in breach including presentation skills, being a team player and of contract and this could hairdressing ability. amount to an act of gross misconduct which may result in summary dismissal following a fair and thorough disciplinary process. Croner notes that employers are using social networking sites more frequently as part of the recruitment process. This might help you get a flavour of the nature of the applicant but caution should be exercised when relying on this information because it might be inaccurate, or possibly was not even posted by the applicant. An employer could unwittingly expose themselves to allegations of unlawful discrimination on the grounds of sex, race, disability, age, sexual orientation, or religious and philosophical beliefs in relying on information posted on a social networking site when deciding on whether to offer a position, Croner says. It believes employers would be better advised to ensure they have a rigorous recruitment procedure in place to select the best candidate for the role based on their CV or application forms and verified at an interview.
Akin Konizi, hob creative director, assisted by creative team member Claire Dawson, styled pop star Pixie Lott’s hair for the video of her single Gravity.
Gala honours The International Salon & Spa Expo in co-operation with the Professional Beauty Association recently hosted the National Cosmetology Association’s Legends & Icons Charity Gala. Beauty
professionals honoured industry leaders, including Robert Cromeans (John Paul Mitchell Systems), Sonya and Christopher Dove (Wella) and Ann Mincey (Redken 5th Avenue NYC)
for their creativity and inspiring the salon industry professionals to develop an entrepreneurial spirit.
Frieda live
John Frieda was booked to appear on stage last month at a Habia skills team hairdressing roadshow, Habia Live, at the Copthorne Tara Hotel, in Kensington, south-west London. He planned to answer questions and talk about his work, his career and his HAIRraising charity.
MAY/JUNE 2010 SALONFOCUS PAGE 13
News
The
Chemicals Bible
Nickel Sulfate and Cobalt Chloride
Many hairdressing products have the potential to cause harm to both client and hairdresser if special precautions are not taken to reduce occupational health issues. Brian Plunkett, a trichololgist and managing director of Trichocare Diagnostics, helps demystify some of these.
Code 5: Rare Allergen. Caution OCD. Chemicals are often found and released from cheap working tools such as scissors, razors and clippers; also found in earrings and body piercing studs. Hydroquinone
Para-pheneylenediamine (PPD)
Formaldehyde
Code 10: Skin Test – Occupational protection required. ACD. A potent skin sensitiser found in many permanent hair dyes and eyelash tint. PPD is the preferred chemical in permanent hair dyes and is popular because it gives a natural look to hair colour and is resistant to fade. PPD is a colourless crystallised substance that, when exposed to oxygen, darkens, and readily locks into the cortex of the hair. It cannot be washed out. The darker the colour, the more PPD is in the colour. Professional note: PPD is a primary intermediate in permanent hair dyes and fur dye. It is also used in photographic development, lithography, photocopying, oils, and grease.
Code 10: Airway - occupational protection required. OCD. A colourless gas that is used primarily as a preservative in many hairdressing products and also as a salon disinfectant. It can be lethal if ingested over time. Formaldehyde is used in some hairstraightening systems and is a threat to occupational respiratory health.
Diaminotoluene sulfate (PTD)
Code 10: Skin Test – Occupational protection required. ACD. Another potent skin sensitiser found in hair dyes and eyelash tint. It is a white to grey powder. PTD is now used in a variety of hair dyes to replace PPD, although PTD cross-reacts with PPD – if you are sensitised to one chemical it is likely that you will be sensitised to both. Professional note: PTD is often seen in lighter hair dye formulations.
Brian Plunkett
Nitro-4-phenylenediamine
Code 10: Skin Test – Occupational protection required. ACD. The final chemical found in hair dyes that also has the potential to cause allergic reactions. Ammonium Persulfate
Code 10: Airway – occupational protection required. OCD. Used as a bleaching agent in hair products. There are three values of Persulphate used in hairdressing to include Sodium and Potassium Persulfate. PAGE 14 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2010
Ammonium thioglycolate
Code 8: Airway – Occupational protection required. OCD and ACD. The main chemical found in permanent waving solutions. This alkaline chemical is sometimes known as a reducing agent that quickly opens up the cuticle of the hair shaft and changes the disulphide bonds of the hair.
Code 5 : Occupational protection required. OCD. A chemical skin lightener used to lighten the skin; its use is diminishing through regulations within the European Union. Its main role is to reduce production of melanin and not to bleach human skin. Balsam of Peru
Code 5: Occupational protection required. OCD. A liquid substance that is extracted from the bark of Tip box a tree. Myroxolon BalTo keep you and your samum, the liquid, is used salon professionally as a mild antibacterial and safe always read the antifungal ingredient in safety data sheets of many hairdressing prodany chemical that has ucts – it is well known as a the potential to cause contact irritant. you or your clients harm. Always buy from reputable suppliers.
Resorcinol
Code 8: Occupational protection required. OCD and ACD. Another lesser allergen component of permanent hair, classed as a coupler that gives an orange tinge to permanent hair dye. Also found in lesser concentrations in some anti-dandruff shampoos. Hydrogen peroxide
Code 8:Occupational protection required. OCD. Classed as a developer that is used to reduce colour (bleach) and to activate through oxidation permanent hair dyes. It is the most used chemical in hairdressing, an oxidizer for both hair dyes and bleaches (persulfates). Chlorhexidine
Code 6: Another preservative used mainly in shampoos. It has the ability to trigger both occupational hand disease and airborne contact dermatitis.
Glyceryl Monothioglycolate
Code 5: Occupational protection required. An acid chemical used in permanent hair waving – ‘acid’ perms. Cocamidopropylbetaine
Code 4: Occupational protection required. OCD. A surfactant in liquid soaps and shampoos. Surfactants are surface-active agents (break surface tension of water). Code index: Code 10 is high risk. An extreme skin sensitiser; extra cautionary measures should be put in place. Skin testing, and the wearing of Personal Protective Equipment should be enforced. Contact via skin, eye and airways. Code 5 is low risk. OCD - Occupational Contact Dermatitis ACD – Allergic Contact Dermatitis
Cutting Brief
YOUR LEGAL PROBLEMS
SOLVED
Gillian Dowling from Croner, operator of the NHF’s Legal Lifeline, answers your questions An employee has been undergoing treatment for cancer for 14 months and often misses work because of illness. I have recruited someone to cover for her. I cannot afford to retain both employees. What are my rights? Cancer is a disability so the employee has rights under the Disability Discrimination Act 1995 (DDA). You have to consider reasonable adjustments to avoid discrimination and get a medical report from her consultant, with her written consent, which can provide guidance on these. She is able to work sporadically so you will need to discuss with her how to manage her absences, how long her treatment will continue and consider whether you can agree in advance any changes to hours worked or duties that are mutually beneficial. Your employee seems fit to work between treatments so it might not be possible to dismiss her at this stage because this may be considered “less favourable treatment” under the DDA. Your recruit should only be a temporary arrangement for extra cover rather than a replacement for the employee receiving the cancer treatment. However, as the employee who has cancer is likely to receive only statutory sick pay when off sick, unless there are different contractual arrangements, some savings on her wages costs can go towards the other person’s pay. Contact the Legal Lifeline for more advice if the reasonable adjustments become unworkable. I sell hair accessories and source unusual hairslides and clips from antique shops, charity shops, eBay and car-boot sales. Some of these products may be new and others second hand. Do they need to be labelled in a particular way for resale? It must be made clear to the customer whether the product is new or not. The customer is entitled to assume it is new unless there is any indication to the contrary. All items sold in the course of business must comply with the Sale of Goods Act 1979 in that they are fit for the purpose for which they are sold and of a satisfactory quality.
www.nhf.info
However, second-hand goods will be of lower “quality” than new ones. It should be made clear if a product is not new and that you offer no warranty as to its condition, and no liability will be accepted in the case of damage caused by the item to hair, skin and clothing. A sign saying “sold as seen” would generally not be sufficient to exclude liability. We would advise against reselling any second-hand electrical products unless they have been thoroughly checked for damage and tested to ensure they work properly and do not pose a hazard to health. You should also check your insurance policy to ensure that you are not breaching any of the terms of your cover.
We keep getting yobs outside our salon, intimidating clients. I am dissatisfied with the lack of seriousness with which the police regard this. Is there anything I can do to ensure the police take action? First go to your local station and file a complaint form. The force should contact you within 10 days to inform you of its decision or any further investigations they need to undertake. The Independent Police Complaints Commission will only investigate very serious complaints against the police, matters which the local force has been unable to resolve or incidents the force has failed to investigate properly. It may be that a letter to your MP or a visit during a surgery would bring the problem to their attention. As well as the police, your district or borough council could obtain an Anti-Social Behaviour Order (Asbo) against the individuals. These last for a maximum of three years. The Order will specify behaviour from which the individual must refrain, or areas from which the individual is barred. It is a criminal offence to breach an Asbo and the police should investigate if anyone does so. Keep a diary to show when and where the yobs congregate, how many there are and the problems they are causing. Keep a note of any appointments which are cancelled as a direct result. • This article provides general guidance only. If you have any general queries for Cutting Brief please email sfeditor@salonfocus.co.uk. NHF members are entitled to specific advice on the telephone from the Legal Lifeline on 0844 561 8180 but you must quote your membership number. Legal Expenses Insurance can only cover restrictive covenants where NHF standard contracts of employment are used.
MAY/JUNE 2010 SALONFOCUS PAGE 15
Federation
focus Frankfurt flourish
– Willis and Colabella triumph Leanne Willis and Franco Colabella did Great Britain
proud when they took overall individual Gold and Silver medals at the Organisation Mondiale de la Coiffure Europe Cup 2010 in
Sassoon
Inspires Vidal Sassoon and the NHF have clinched a mutual coup after Bruce Masefield, the iconic hairdressing
group’s creative director, and the Sassoon UK creative team, agreed to mentor NHF Inspire. The mentors from the Regis UKowned business took over from Akin Konizi, Sean Dawson and the hob creative team last month. They will educate and help develop the NHF’s art team through seminars, photoshoots and presentation demonstrations. Masefield and the Sassoon UK creative team are internationally renowned for the highest artistic standards and NHF Inspire has developed to become one of the industry’s top art teams under the tutelage of its former hob mentors and, prior to that, Charlie Taylor. The Sassoon name is synonymous with hairdressing with a reputation as pioneers within the industry and as leaders of innovation and influence for all other creative teams in the UK. Masefield is personally known for his influence and creativity and his commitment to the development of emerging talent. Masefield said it was a pleasure to be able to mentor NHF Inspire. “We’re all excited to work on this project and teach the members our world-class techniques while giving them the opportunity to grow in their knowledge
PAGE 16 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2010
Frankfurt. Willis, from The Venue, in Ashington, Northumberland, took Gold in the Senior Ladies’ Long Hair Open, achieving maximum points in this category, and Gold in the Long Hair
Bruce Masefield will mentor NHF Inspire
and experiences. We at Sassoon believe that education is integral to the growth of any stylist and from here the platform for creativity is built.” Eileen Lawson, NHF secretary general, said: “We are delighted that Bruce Masefield and the Sassoon creative team will be working with us. NHF Inspire has developed tremendously since its inception to become one of the best art teams in the business. I am confident that with the help of the Sassoon mentors, NHF Inspire will continue to grow in stature and its team members will be even more in demand for presentations, demonstrations and photoshoots. “NHF Inspire is a shop window for the creative talent of our members and highlights the calibre and skill of our professional membership.”
L-R: Lloyd Griffiths, Salvatore Fodera, Leanne Willis, Franco Colabella and Stephen Coles
Evening Style. “It was my first Gold in the ladies’ category internationally and it made me feel that I could do well at the World Hairdressing Championships. It has made me even more determined now,” she said. Colabella, from Franco International, in Pennfields, Wolverhampton, took gold in the Senior Gents’ Classics and Bronze in the senior Gents’ Fashion, giving him a Silver overall in the men’s individual. He said his hopes for the World Championships were “extremely high” and his performance was a confidence booster for the rest of the senior gents’ team. • Turn to page 18-21 for the SalonFocus World Championships special.
paul-baker-photography.co.uk
Thomson illuminates North West
The bride Category – winner wendy croall (standing 2nd left)
The best British Open yet, vows Coray
NHF vice-president Mark Coray has vowed that this year’s British Open Championships will be the best yet. “This is the first time it has been to Wales and the Welsh Area is determined to make this the best British Open ever to be held in the NHF,” he said. Entries were pouring in to meet the May 2 closing date for the extravaganza on May 16 at Cardiff City Stadium. Stephanie Munno, NHF assistant secretary, said the event was fast becoming the single greatest highlight of the annual hairdressing competitions calendar. “We are looking forward to entrants from France and Germany who have promised they will be competing.” Cardiff’s local radio stations, Red Dragon and the Thunders will support Help a South Wales Child.
They will run events on the day to raise money for the charity.
New NHF website wins praise
Praise has started to pour in for the new NHF website which went live in March. “A website that we have been waiting for,” was typical of the comments received. Stephanie Munno, assistant secretary, said: “We hope our members are delighted with the new look, especially with the new e-shop where they can order everything they require.” This would be accessible 24 hours a day, seven days a week and would prevent delays, she said. She encouraged members to visit www.nhf.info frequently to keep up to date with hot industry topics, the
www.nhf.info
Winners bloom at Red Rose
The Red Rose Championships have bounced back after an absence of two years. Competitors produced superb work at the event which gave members of Squad GB another opportunity to hone their skills in the run-up to the World Hairdressing Championships.
Jury members praised the high standard in all categories, and congratulated all competitors on their hard work at the North West Area-organised event in Samlesbury, Lancashire. Emma Saxon, from Stephen Coles Hair Design, Lytham-St-Annes, was Trainee Ladies’ Champion, Ryan Hughes, from John Karl, Southport, Men’s Champion and Leanne Willis, from The Venue, in Ashington, Northumberland, the Senior Ladies’ Champion as well as winner of the Photographic Competition. Other winners were: Trainee Ladies’ Fashion Blow Dry – Hannah Clague, from Reds Hair Company, Ross on Wye; Men’s Fashion on Long Hair – Kyle Brotherton, from Triangles Hair & Beauty, Blackburn; Ladies’ Long Hair Down (Day Style) – Leanne Willis; Junior Ladies’ Trend Cut on Manikin Heads – Linzi Weare, Reds Hair Company; Trainee Ladies’ Hair Up – Emma Saxon; Ladies’ Colour Award – Caroline Gerrard, from Gerrards Professional Hair & Style, Yeovil Somerset; Men’s Trend Cut – Ryan Hughes; Ladies Long Hair Up (Evening Style) – Leanne Willis; Junior Ladies’ Evening fashion on Long Hair – Shauni Grey, from Jackson Gray, Dundee; The Bride – Wendy Croall, from Stephen Coles Hair Design.
latest press releases and submissions to government bodies. New to the site are the area and branch pages where members can find news and local events and identify key contacts. Video clips of Team GB and NHF Inspire, industry surveys and members’ own shop window, accessible by clicking on their salon details, will be added during the year.
The Federation’s new management accountant, Simon Thomson, provided an illuminated insight into the NHF’s move over to central treasury at the North West Area’s annual general meeting in Lancaster. The move to central treasury was brought about by the NHF’s registration as an Industrial & Provident Society, approved at the Federation’s conference held in Leeds last October. Several people present wanted clarification about procedural issues and Thomson promptly addressed their queries. He explained that the introduction of central treasury meant each area and branch would continue to have their own bank account with the ability to both pay in cheques and issue cheques locally. Head office could carry
SIMON THOMSON extols central treasury virtues
out these services on their behalf if they preferred but only with area or branch authority. Head office would be able to provide a full accounting service to areas and branches, giving a more efficient and ultimately cost-effective service to its members as well as attracting premium interest rates on investments. Thomson answered further questions about the simple processes which areas and branches would need to complete so they could submit monthly returns to head office. Two areas had already completed a smooth transfer to central treasury and he would personally be dealing with all areas and branches throughout the switch. He said he remained confident of completing the project by the August 31 deadline.
• The following officers were elected: Ian Barrell, president, Cheryl Swarbrick, vice-president, Ken Taylor, area secretary and June Taylor, assistant secretary. Linda Cornell was elected as NEC representative and Graham Collins, Eileen Clough, Harry Kohl, Michael Burgum and Stephen Coles
were elected as committee members. • The NHF is recruiting for the post of honorary treasurer. A nomination form for this position is included with this issue of SalonFocus. Please contact Tina Beaumont at head office on 01234 831965 or 0845 3456500 if yours is missing.
Inspire recruits integrate
The newest NHF Inspire recruits have wasted little time making their presence known as part of the fastest developing art team within the industry. Katy Grimshaw, from Celeste Arnold Hair and Make-Up, in Bury, Lancashire, Kayleigh Louise Nicholas, from the CF40 Experience, in Cornwall, Colin McAndrew, owner of Medusa, in Edinburgh, and Matthew Guy Sutcliffe, from Westrow, in Leeds, threw themselves into educational days and a photographic shoot mentored by the hob artistic team.
Spoilt for choice
The judges of the NHF Photographic Stylists of the Year 2010 had a tough time deciding the winners with 88 entries for the ladies and 35 for the men. Finalists will attend the awards presentation at the British Open Hairdressing Championships in Cardiff on
May 16. The winning photographs will be published in the next issue of SalonFocus.
MAY/JUINE 2010 SALONFOCUS PAGE 17
Count Down
To Paris from Jon Richard, Bradford, West Yorkshire, shows a lot Top hairdressers the world over are counting down the of promise,” she said. months to the greatest spectacular in hairdressing – the New squad memebers include Lucy Macey, from Marc biennial OMC World Hairdressing Championships in Paris Weston, Bristol, and hopes are high for Linzi Wear, from on November 7-8. Reds Hair Company, Ross-on-Wye. More than 1,000 competitors will pull out all the William Davis, another new member, who works stops for victory in the various fashion and technical for Franco International, in Pennfields, categories at the ever-growing extravaganza Wolverhampton, is said to have also recently which has a massive impact on the international upped his game. hairdressing community. World Others out to impress are Leanne Willis, from Team GB manager Wendy Harris called a general meeting of the full squad to plan Hairdressing The Venue, in Ashington, Northumberland, strategy and nine training dates were booked Championships Julie Wallis, from Renaissance, in Upminster, Essex, Edith Webster, The Hair Company, in the run-up to Paris. Special Solihull, and Kimm Elwell, Escape Hair The team will look to build on 2008 Studio, in Cannock, Staffordshire. when Steven Smart, from Smart Est 73, “I believe all of the squad are listening and won Gold Medals. taking advice and they are watching and learning Harris said: “Work is progressing really well. My from all the other competitions they have entered, not hopes are extremely high for the Junior Fashion and Senior just internationally but regionally and nationally as well. Fashion and the Junior Classics, in particular.” They have completely changed their way of thinking,” She thought Wendy Croall, from Stephen Coles Harris said. Hair Design, in Lytham St Annes, Lancashire, would do well, as would Ben Price, from Robert John Hair Group, in Portishead, Bristol. “I think Belinda Dwyer, Sponsors of Team GB
L’Oreal Professionnel backs Team GB
The NHF is delighted to announce an historic exclusive deal with L’Oreal Professionnel to sponsor Team GB to compete in Paris. The sponsorship includes, among many things, exclusive use of L’Oreal styling products, training facilities and a professional make-up artist to join the team in training and at the World Championships.
Sponsors of Team GB
Harris EXPEcTS PLACING
Wendy Harris, Team GB manager, tells Stephanie Munno she is optimistic about a placing for the British competitors this year in Paris SM: What do you realistically expect this year? WH: I definitely expect us to do better than last time and, with the training sessions booked right up until Paris, I expect us to be placed. The ideas are flowing better and there is much more enthusiasm. SM: Which countries should we look out for? WH: We need to look out for Russia, France, Germany, Italy and possibly Korea. SM: Who has excelled in their training? WH: Wendy Croall, without a doubt, is superb and has recently moved up from the Junior Ladies’ Classics to the Senior Ladies’ Classics. She is already in the lead in the points system. Leanne Willis always excels in her training and Julie Wallis has been working hard and her performance has much improved. Tayla Murdy is exceptional as a 14-year-old girl who is still at school and has already won a Gold Medal. She is in the Junior Fashion in Paris and I expect great things from her.
www.nhf.info
SM: What are your predictions? WH: We have a young lad in the Men’s (From l-r) Stephen Coles, Linda Cornell Classic Juniors, Christian Howley, and Mark Coray gave constructive who is exceptional and criticism and praise we hope for great things from him, too. We have a SM: What advice couple of new people in are you giving to the the squad, including squad members? William Davis, who works WH: All we ask is that for Franco Colabella. they work hard, come We see great things for him. to the training sessions, We saw promise in Lucy listen and do their best. Macey in the SouthampThey have been given a ton competitions where fantastic opportunity to she was placed. “ Wendy Harris: represent their country. It is crucial they enjoy it SM: How do the “ It is pointless because they will not do training sessions work? giving them well otherwise. Passion, WH: When individuals hours to try energy and technical first arrive we give them and perfect ability are important prea short while to settle requisites for a successful down to help get their a style when career on the competimanikin heads ready and they only have tion floor. then we do timed tests. A 18 or 25 team of people, such as SM: How does the Mark Coray, Stephen minutes on the point system work Coles, Linda Cornell competition for selecting squad and I will go around giving members for the final floor.” constructive criticism as Paris team? well as praise and then we WH: They get one point for attending a get them to do it again, building on the training session and five points for every comments we have given them. The competition they compete in. hairdressers will progress to their next If they win a Gold Medal they get 30 category and undergo the same routine. points, Silver – 25 points, Bronze – 20, It is pointless giving them hours to fourth place –15 points, and fifth place – try and perfect a style when they only 10 points. Anyone who comes in have 18 or 25 minutes on the competibelow fifth place is not awarded points. tion floor on the day. We would always The single training session points are give them time, maybe an hour, to try added on to their total score. By the out new ideas, but the main structure time this interview appears, the decision of the training has got to be timed. on who has made the team will have They almost re-enact the competition. been made. Sometimes we might stop them three minutes before the end, get them to step back and have a look at the style, see if there is any room for improvement then use that last bit of time to tweak.
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER MAY/JUNE 2009 2010 SALONFOCUS PAGE 19
Sponsors of Team GB
Something for everyone
Squad vies for Paris Places
Squad GB members were vying to be picked for the final team destined to compete in Paris when SalonFocus went to press. Among them were (L-R:) Belinda Dywer, Ben Price, Brian Hastie, Caroline Gerrard, Christian Howley, Edith Webster, William Davis, Tayla Murdy, Stephen Pyne, Shauni Gray, Philip Parkin, Lucy Macey, Linzi Weare, Leanne Willis, Laura Kelland, Kimm Elwell, Julie Wallis, Franco Colabella and Gary Pearce. They have notched up between then an impressive collection of awards.
Fit for purpose
Squad GB members are sharpening their skills in a series of training sessions at Aston & Fincher, in Birmingham, in the run-up to the World Championships. Remaining dates are June 20, July 18, August 15, September 26, October 17 and a full dress rehearsal on October 31. The sessions are crucial because they teach the squad to work as a team. The sessions are highly structured: the squad have to work to competition timings, and each member’s work is critiqued and judged. The training sessions also teach the squad to look out for their own faults, and they are taught how to make improvements. A debriefing at the end goes over important issues, and the final scenario covering costumes, hair colour and
PAGE 20 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2010
The World Championships are open to all Organisation Mondial de la Coiffure (OMC) member country organisations, teams and individual competitors. Up to four competitors to a team can register. The scores for the best three will count for the general classification of the team but the fourth member will receive the same awards and titles as the three official competitors. “Wise men” observe the competitors and penalise any infractions according to the OMC penalty chart. Before the competition starts the wise men independently check the models on the floor to ensure all competitors have respected the competition rules. Those who hold a jury certificate may be selected to form the jury groups for the World Cup and Europe Cup teams and individual tests of the ladies’ and gents’ sections The NHF currently has 6 certified international jurors. On the ladies’ categories – Mark Coray and Stephen Coles, and John Jenkins and on the gents’ – Ian Foreman, Graham Smith and Lloyd Griffiths. All categories of the 26 competitions attract their own awards of 1st, 2nd or 3rd, and, if a larger competition floor, 4th and 5th.
make-up are discussed. In the run-up to the Paris spectacular, the squad will enter the British Open Championships on May 16, at the Cardiff City Stadium, and the South West Area Championships, on May 23. Wendy Harris, team manager, and her fellow trainers approached the competition organisers who were holding their events early in the year to help to determine which area and branches were prepared to work with the team and provide the competitions they needed. The regional competitions that are structured like the international events, following the same rules, provide useful
Mark Coray shares invaluable advice with Ben Price
World Hairdressing Championships Special
The competitions consist of Senior Ladies and Gents’ Fashion, Full Fashion and Technical Categories, Junior Ladies and Gents’ Fashion and Technical Categories and Esthetics (Body Painting) and Nails – split into a total of 26 events. There is something for everyone. Full Fashion, Bridal, Fantasy Hairstyles, Afro Total Look, Stage Make-Up, Body Painting, 3D Marriage, Fantasy Nail Design do not form part of the competitions for the Supreme Champion. The OMC Supreme World Champion title will be awarded to competitors who have obtained the highest accumulated points in the combination tests of the Technical and Fashion combination categories, in both the live model tests and the mannequin head tests of the senior and junior sections. If two individual competitors have equal points, the competitor who has the highest overall score in the technical combination tests will be the OMC Supreme Champion.
experience because they are just like entering an international competition running on the same guidelines. The team will make a presentation at the NHF Annual Conference in Dundee, on October 3, where they will run a workshop in the style of a training session, covering hair, make-up and clothes. The audience will have the opportunity to walk around and talk to them. The audience will be able to ask questions throughout and the workshop will finish with a catwalk presentation. Harris said: “After being involved in the team for the last four to five years I feel that this is my most positive year because of the structure we now have in place with the trainers and the coordinators and everyone is in tune with each other.” • For further information on all squad and officials please see the nhf website, www.nhf.info.
www.nhf.info
Sponsors of Team GB
From Lyon to Paris in 63
This year will be the eighth time Paris has hosted the biannual World Hairdressing Championships. The Hairworld extravaganza had humble beginnings in 1946 when Organisation Mondiale de Coiffure (OMC) was created in Lyon, its aim to unite hairdressers internationally, strengthen the profession and organise national and international competitions. Belgium, France, Great Britain, Luxembourg and Switzerland were founder members. It now is the world’s biggest beauty organisation. French schools were world leaders before German and Austrian schools overtook them. OMC chose Austria and Germany to host the championships many times in recognition of their contribution. The world’s first hairdressers’ art championship for ladies took place in 1947. Only “Coiffure Masters” could participate. “Haircut masters” did not join them until the fourth championship.
A selection of styles from Chicago 2008
The World Hairdressing Championships in Brighton, England, in 1954, held the first gents’ competitions, followed by the first European Championships in ladies’ and men’s hairdressing in 1955 in Ostend, Belgium. The juniors were added 15 years later in Rotterdam. Technical and fashion combination tests for seniors and juniors joined the mix in 2000. British professionals were up with the best for many years: the Constantinou brothers hold a prominent position among world champions. Russians started participating in 1990 and, two years later, they entered the top-10 – the year the Japanese men’s and women’s teams triumphed. The Italians took over at the end of the 90s when Francesco Milani, Aldo Vigolo and Eros Basta, pupils of Renzo Cinelato, emerged victorious.
German masters became the winners of Hairworld in 2000, in Berlin and, in 2002, when the championships were held in Las Vegas, Russia’s Union of Hairdressing and Cosmetologists, introduced manicure. Salvatore Fodera, who has won more than 50 national and international competitions, was elected the OMC world president in Milan in November 2004. Now as Hairworld comes to Paris again the sector will unite to create probably one of the most colourful spectacles on the planet.
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER MAY/JUNE 2009 2010 SALONFOCUS PAGE 21
Shaw Thing
A well-composed newsletter can help build client loyalty, says Simon Shaw
your team when you have done a draft and show select clients. We all have such a mixture of regulars and they are generally delighted to help.
Communication with clients is one of the most Values difficult things to get right but a good newsletter It is critical to ensure the newsletter matches the style can overcome this barrier. and communicates the values of your salon. It might One of the main benefits is that it can make your be read by people who are not existing clients so by salon more of a community, involve staff and clients reading your newsletter they should get a good feel in the business, and make customers feel cared about for the business. and that their business is important to you. Think about keeping the letter in line with your A newsletter can distinguish you from the brand and image, use the same corporate colours competition, something that is becoming and the same font you use for your price list. increasingly difficult. Make sure you use a decent grade of paper if However, it is hard to pinpoint how a printing as opposed to emailing. Get this wrong and newsletter directly affects turnover but you it could put prospective clients off from visiting. Get it could put offers on the bottom, such as right and you can gain new clients. complementary treatments A newsletter is generally with any colour service, and shorter and punchier than a gauge the take-up from this. magazine. It is usually made Simon Shaw is the The real benefit is in up of one page and commuco-founder and building client loyalty. Think of nicates what is happening past director of in the business. I think a international award- how other industries comHighlights magazine has to be prowinning salon group municate with their clients. de: A newsletter can inclu Haringtons. He Football clubs, supermarkets duced professionally for it to on • Staff informati runs Simon Shaw and banks are prime examlook credible but I have seen ts • Even Education and he is some stunning newsletters undertaking courses ples; look at what they do and • New services that have been produced for L’Oreal in the UK see what you can use. • Promotional offers and abroad as well as entirely in-house. and ey • Client surv privately for individual Consistency One way of starting est requ back feed salons. He is a mentor cheaply is to consider an Among the many consid• Inspiring news from for L’Oreal’s id artist e-newsletter. You need programme. erations are how you will either staff or clients to collect clients’ email distribute your newsletter and er lead s • The owner’ addresses and you must who you will send it to. I suggest you . tone the set to mn colu comply with the data start it in a small way rather than go full protection laws. The out for one issue and then lose steam. obvious advantages are no Consistency is key, so do not be overpostal cost and less updating because ambitious; quarterly is more manageable people change their email addresses infrequently. The than monthly. trick is to make them interesting so that a client wants Start writing once you have considered your to read it and does not treat it as spam. readers and what they might want to learn. Up-to-date client information is vital if you are Remember the newsletter should be about them and going to post newsletters because every one not their needs – rather than you and yours. received probably wastes 50p. Ask yourself why you are doing it, what you hope It is the voice of your salon that clients should it to achieve, what the frequency and distribution hear when they read your newsletter so it is a useful should be and the likely cost. exercise to establish what that voice is, and what your You do not necessarily need a professional joursalon represents. But do make it fun – it should not nalist to write your newsletter or a printer to print it. But it does have to look good and it should be written be a chore otherwise your enthusiasm will wane. using correct spelling and grammar. Get input from your team. Do you have someone who has a flair for writing or design? A lot of younger members of staff have skills in desktop publishing. Do not be afraid to use those people. Get feedback from
PAGE 22 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2010
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MAY/JUNE 2010 SALONFOCUS PAGE 23
Long View
Hair extensions are to the 21st Century what the wig was to the 60s and provide a rapid return on investment, says Michael Barnes
X Factor judge Cheryl Cole, models Kate Moss and Katie Price, ex-Spice Girl Victoria Beckham, actresses Drew Barrymore and Keira Knightley and pop diva Mariah Carey have helped popularise hair extensions in the last 10 years. The sector is now estimated to be worth £65m a year in the UK alone – a fivefold increase on 2004. The red-carpet look has changed in the past few years from short, structured bobs to big, glamorous curls overnight which would not have been possible without extensions which come in real or fake hair. There are many ways to apply permanent extensions. Clip-ins are available for a temporary look, popular for weddings and special occasions.
Human hair wefts can be sewn in, commonly known as a weave – popular in the Afro hair market. The transition from brunette to blonde, from straight to curly and back again could be achieved in a morning’s work, but “cutting it longer” defeated stylists, until extensions came along. The market changes Michael Barnes is a avoiding the dilemma of specialist in bridal how to style constantly and radically. The hair, long hair a head of hair that is only products available were and extensions. synthetic when they first came He has styled Keira in the process of being on the scene in the 80s. They Knightley and Lily grown out. Cole. Michael Barnes looked exactly that and, as a They can make fine Hairdressing is in hair much thicker and result, were seen as a fad that Shaftesbury only desperate fashion victims give limp hair body and Avenue, London. indulged in. volume. They can also be Extensions today range in price used to add colour, whether a highand quality. Any natural hair colour lighted look or even a flash of green. can be matched, along with various When choosing the right extensions fantasy shades. for your clients there are several factors Every variety of texture is possible, to take into consideration. from curly to smooth and straight, and We only use Remy hair, in which the lengths vary enormously, too. the follicles all face the right direction Extensions can be coloured or as natural hair does, giving an added permed so it is easy to match or create veneer of authenticity. any look or hair type. They also It is important that the right amount represent relatively good value after the of wave, or lack of, is chosen because initial outlay and taking into considerathis will make the styling process much tion the length of time they be worn. easier and less time consuming. It is also important to choose the correct hair type if the hair is fine or Afro, Wow and the right colour to ensure it looks as They have the wow factor and believable as possible. many clients cannot believe the Choosing a suitable length may difference in their appearance. sound obvious but when you have a To alter your look so radically client who is desperate for long hair it and swiftly gives hair extenis easy to overestimate and buy stock sions their own commercial that is much too long. You then end sphere entirely. Extensions have several up cutting a lot of it off and wasting money. It is difficult to quote your client benefits to clients: they a price accurately if you do not know make hair longer instantly exactly how much to order. and make the agonisingly slow process of growing hair longer much easier and less painful,
Supermodel Lily cole goes for the dramatic look
time, then adding a premium to make it worthwhile. The cost of the hair itself is also factored in to the equation. The initial cost of buying the kit and training is not expensive. Most companies do great deals in the hope you will feel an allegiance and buy their products in the future. You would expect to break even after only two full heads of extensions. Good extensions are now almost impossible to spot, are natural looking and make the hair appear in great condition. In the future I have no doubt that there will be quicker, easier ways of applying extensions and they will have no impact on the condition of the natural hair.
Aftercare
HAIR EXTENSIONS NEED TO BE APPLIED CORRECTLY AND IT IS IMPERATIVE YOU DO NOT CUT CORNERS
Consultation
The consultation is critical. Paying proper care and attention to this is imperative and will go a long way to ensuring that you have a happy client. The most important question to ask is what the client wants and expects to get from extensions. Does she want length, body or colour or possibly all three? If she wants extra length I would warn her that this will require a fairly steep lifestyle alteration. Her hair will take much longer, and probably require more effort, to dry. Long hair, even if it has been acquired instantly, is still not a low-maintenance option. If the client wants colour then a traditional colour consultation is also necessary to determine which colours and effects are required. I would recommend bonded extensions if a client wants to have the extra length and forget about them. These will last anything up to six months. If she just wants something temporary, I would recommend clip-in extensions.
www.nhf.info
We stock Goldwell Colourmatch which is matched to our colour system. I would then cut them if necessary and show the client how to apply them herself. I would recommend pre-bonded Remy hair – we use Cinderella. We, like most salons, do not keep a lot of hair in stock and most extensions companies operate a next day delivery service.
Deposit
Once we have decided on the hair type, length and colour we will order it and make the appointment. A deposit is usually required. A full head of permanent bonded extensions takes on average about six hours and we charge accordingly. The client needs to be alerted to the fact from the outset that this is not a low-cost or quick operation either. Salons charge £600-£2,500 per full head. The cost usually relates to the time the procedure takes, multiplied by how many cuts you could do in that
Hair extensions need to be applied correctly and it is imperative that you do not cut corners. Aftercare products are available, and we build them into the price to ensure clients will not compromise the longevity of our work. One of the most important aftercare items is a special looped extension brush that will not pull or tangle the extensions. We usually cut the extensions with a razor or use slide-cutting techniques because we feel the result looks far more realistic than traditional layering methods. Our male extensions clients are few; they tend to have partial extensions for a fringe or maybe some length at the back. They are the type of men who have edge, are extremely fashion conscious and have creative jobs where they can express themselves. We find that the classic extensions client is the woman who wants it and wants it now. She is in control of every area of her life and does not see why she should have to wait two years for the hairstyle she wants on the night she wants it. Thankfully we are now in a position to help her get exactly what she requires.
MAY/JUNE 2010 SALONFOCUS PAGE 25
Successful
for profit
talk about what lifestyle trends might offer new opportunities for us. Regis examines the entire nature of a new partnership Jackie Lang has been with a distributor when managing director of Regis UK since 2008. considering new lines and She is responsible for not just the goods and the 450 salons that include margins available. Regis’s UK branches Astute buying is crucial for We look at the overall and Vidal Sassoon salons in the UK, visibility of the products achieving the right product Germany and USA. nationally and how they are mix and desired margins, supported with marketing, PR and advertising. We also writes Jackie Lang consider the product education on offer and work with the distributor or Regis UK has developed a hairdressing manufacturer to push through sales business that has harvested years with promotions and team incentives. of commercial experience to hone its We have a dedicated buying and business processes for success. merchandising team that maximises Buying products for salon use and the relationship for everyone, ensuring retail is no exception and our company the suppliers are well managed and has a strong structure in place to tackle that product supply is reliable and everything from assessing potential uninterrupted. new lines to reviewing how each unit Logistically the management and performs. movement of such large volumes of All our buying is done centrally from stock is highly sophisticated. Some goods our Coventry corporate office. We bring are purchased directly from the US and product into our depot near Solihull Regis seeks to hold four to six weeks of using a logistics company and then stock in the central warehouse. outsource national distribution to our TRADE SECRET IS UNUSUAL IN THE UK FOR ITS HEAVY FOCUS ON PRODUCTS Data is drawn down from each salons around the UK using a courier. salon’s computerised stock and sales We buy from many suppliers both for The products must be compliant with retail and in-salon use and list products the European Union Cosmetics Directive system every night and replenished by an automated replacement system. right through the spectrum from global and the supplier must be able to fulfil a A window exists during which companies, such as L’Oreal, down minimum order and maintain consistent salon managers can adjust orders, any supply if they are to be considered for to small national companies, such as changes are reviewed and then fulfilled rollout throughout the business. Tangle Teezer. with the automated order. The central buying, merchandising and marketing departments work Scale Regis is a huge consumer and retailer of together to create a plan-o-gram for Checked every range that is in-store. product and moves about eight million Managers set minimum and maximum Our detailed plan-o-gram, created for quantity parameters for products used units through the business in any single year. This gives an indication of the scale every range and sub range, comprises in-salon and, to avoid wastage or anoman agreed strategy and tactical plan for that our buying processes tackle. We alies, orders and stock held are checked the product. It might contain everything by the area supervisors when they visit. have rigorous conditions with which we require potential suppliers to comply from shelf plans for product display to The “just-in-time” stock ordering information on key selling points and but they are all realistic and achievable. system contributes to the optimum It is in our interests to seek the highest anticipated sales figures. efficiency for each salon and the margins and best terms but the supcorporate company. plier also has the advantage of putting The group has carved out a harmoReviewed product through 450 salons with one nious system where warehousing and The entire retail proposition is reviewed central deal and achieving amazing distribution costs are as small as possible, quarterly during our product and mervolume. chandising meetings when we consider while buying, marketing, merchandising The Regis Artistic Team, led by how each product is performing against and promotion create maximum profit. Regis UK blends all the experience of goals set. Julie-Anne Newton, first test potential its global parent with its own domestic We discuss whether the strategy products for a month before going knowledge to ensure this essential busineeds to be reviewed or if the product on to be fully piloted in several salons ness process is integrated, intelligent simply is not viable for our business. around the UK once they are happy and efficient. We also discuss potential new lines and with them.
buying
PAGE 26 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2010
Be motivated... be inspired.
1-4 day courses available: Classic Cutting Salon Creatives Advanced Creatives Mens Cutting Commercial Colour Advanced Fashion Colour Long Hair How to Build Your Column Want to knoW more? T: +44 (0)20 7485 7272 (ext. 3) E: education@hobsalons.com W: hobsalons.com British Hairdresser of the Year 2009 Artistic Team of the Year 2009 London Hairdresser of the Year 2009
The art of
hairdryers
mastering Drying hair correctly is a craft in itself so it makes sense to buy the best equipment you can to help make the best of your skills, says Adee Phelan
In BBC 3’s Young Hairdresser of the Year, which I judged last year with Beverly C, I found the finishing of hair was the weakest area of Haito Dryer collection: students’ work. Hair dryer white on blacK. Blow-drying is about being able to finish someone’s hair without introducing clips and hairspray. I think once people have learnt the fundamentals of hairdressing there should Adee Phelan is an award-winning hair I tell clients what I am be an extra crash course stylist, who rose to doing with the hairdryer. on finishing. fame on Channel 4’s The industry teaches You have to show them The Salon. He is a people how to cut and how favourite with a host how to care for it at to do a cut-and-finish look of celebrity clients. His home. You get fewer eponymous salon is complaints, customers but we do not really teach in Covent Garden, in have more faith in you them how to finish hair London’s West End. beautifully. Putting the right He is ambassador for and there will be more finish on a haircut can make Hair Tools. of a change. all the difference. Usually when you Hair-drying, if you ask any hairdresser, start hairdressing at 16 or 17 you begin is the last thing you really master. You with a reasonably priced hairdryer from will always find the client will complain Babyliss or Remington. When I started most times about the way their hair has working with Lee Stafford everyone been finished rather than the way it has in the salon had a Parlux which is a been cut. hairdressers’ hairdryer and is to hairYou could give someone a basic drying what Wahl is to clippers or ghd haircut, finish it beautifully and it could is to straighteners. look like a million dollars. There are Parlux is not just about the power thousand ways to dry hair but techniand the heat but it is the longevity that cally only a few ways to cut hair. also impresses me. With most hairdryers the motors blow. I expect a hairdryer to last at least 12 months, using it five Fussy I am fussy about the finishing of hair – it or six days a week, on five or six clients is the last thing I pass people on. Where a day. Even if mine has not worn out, I replace everyone’s dryer annually. a lot of hairdressers go wrong is they spend 45 minutes in the shops and make it look like a million dollars, wave Quality goodbye and the client wakes up two A salon of my size with 15 days later and says what the **** has hairdressers would spend about he done to may hair? £700 a year on hairdryers.
PAGE 28 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2010
Haito Dryer collection: Purple hands hair dryer.
Quality remains the key factor for most salon hairdryer purchases. It is the most used electrical appliance within the salon so longevity and power are key attributes that you should look for. Purchasing a trusted quality brand in the long term is better value for money as opposed to choosing a cheaper dryer that will only last a fraction of the time. The lifespan of a hairdryer can depend on many factors, one of which is the quality of the equipment and how it is made. Most professional hairdryers use AC heavy-duty motors, while retail dryers use lightweight DC Motors which can produce heat, but not power, and do not have the long life of an AC motor. A professional, reputable brand is always advised for efficiency, durability and value for money. Another factor is how well they are looked after. It is always essential to make sure that the rear filter of a dryer is kept clean and free of hair. If the filter becomes blocked this can damage the
Wahl: ZX733 Rainbow Dryer
motor and therefore significantly reduce the lifespan. All stylists should be using a high quality professional brand because they are much more durable than a consumer electrical product as well as delivering the best performance. Also certain dryers offer special features that can result in hair that is healthier. Ceramic Ionic Technology, for example preserves the natural moisture in the hair. Expensive does not necessarily mean the best but, as a rule, you do get what you pay for. I hope hairdryers improve in the future. My biggest pet hate is cables and leads. They say if you make them cordless they will lose power. Leads getting tangled up in chairs and wrapped around clients’ necks is a nightmare. My dream scenario would be a cordless hairdryer that actually works. Hairdryers have become smaller over time but with more power. Continuous research and development within the hairdryer market means they have
www.nhf.info
Parlux: 3200 flowers edition
developed vastly over the past years, in power as well as design. Hairdryers continue to improve in wattage and airflow which results in a higher power and therefore faster drying time. Also hairdryers are now being designed more ergonomically and lighter which results in a more comfortable machine to work with and reduces operating fatigue.
Retail
I sell about 20 professional hairdryers from the salon a month. They sell themselves. There is a retail opportunity there for salons and novelty dryers can come into their own here. The trend at the moment with regards to novelty dryers is patterns and colours. The Haito dryer collection, for example, offers fun, eye-catching designs, such as ladybird, wood effect and handprints. Another popular novelty item is the mini dryer which is good for selling in the salon for their portability. People buy straighteners from salons, so why not dryers? The salon provides an excellent platform to present and sell products to their clients and is a more effective selling tool than trying to sell from a shop shelf.
Clients are more inclined to buy a product if they can see the end result through demonstration and also if a professional recommendation is given. Retail sales within the salon have always been a major part of the hairdressing service. The professional advice offered to your clients is an important selling tool. There is no need to compete with the high street and supermarkets; the key is to concentrate on promoting the professional angle. It is essential that salons emphasise the difference between retail and professional appliances and that buying professional products rather than the standard retail electricals is more economical in the long run. Clients are more willing to pay higher prices for professional products that can help them sustain and recreate the salon look at home. As a salon owner, it is essential that your staff are up-todate with features and benefits of the products you sell.
MAY/JUNE 2010 SALONFOCUS PAGE 29
The
Beverly Column Hairdressing icon Beverly C has twice won the British Hairdresser of the Year Award and she was the first female hairdresser to be awarded an MBE. She is a brand ambassador for Goldwell and Babyliss, and she is a regular face on TV and in the press.
Summer is on its way and it is great to feel the first signs of our long, awaited recovery from recession. My friends at GMTV asked if I would join them to perform quick-fix transformations on the shoppers of Manchester. Resident GMTV clothes stylist Mark Hayes, celebrity make-up artist Daniel Sandler and top hairstylist and friend Steven Glendenning
completed the dream team, and we were camped out at the Arndale Shopping Centre
in Manchester for three days. We had a blast. It was great fun, satisfying and testing my creativity to the limit, especially when doing a full restyle and finish in less than 20 minutes.
Thinning hair
Thinning hair affects about thirty per cent of the population, and while it is becoming easier to talk about hair loss from cancer treatment, it is otherwise still relatively taboo to discuss the issue of thinning hair. One out of three clients could suffer from it and they would be really appreciative of help from their hairstylist so this is something that presents an opportunity to help your clients and your business. I am launching a campaign to address the issue and would like to share with SalonFocus readers my tips on how to tackle the problem: • You can bring the sensitive issue up with a client who has thin or thinning hair by saying you are involved in a salon campaign to help everyone achieve thicker-looking hair. • Suggest they follow your top tips if
PAGE 30 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2010
BEVERLY C DEMONSTRATES HER SKILLS ON STAGE
• Experiment with styling techniques using straighteners or tongs. Often a client just needs to be shown how and they will become devotees and buy everything they need from your salon. • Do not forget that shampoos and finishing products can all make hair look thicker. Do not be afraid to recommend. Just starting a dialogue will lead to you offering so many solutions. Your they show an interest. You could get a client will feel and look better and will list printed on a postcard or leaflet, or be grateful for your expertise, and you just talk them through the steps they will sell many more products and services should take if you prefer. • Suggest a new look that is specifically than you would have done before. Use the information you compile designed to make the hair look thicker. and maybe a client story to get some You could develop some cool cuts with valuable PR in your local press. innovative names to tempt them. You could become the thinning-hair • Recommend subtle colouring techniques that will change the texture and expert in your area. So take a tip from me: help your appearance of their hair to enhance the clients, help your business and help thickness. I work with Goldwell which has some amazing products for effective reduce the problem of thinning hair. colouring without damage. • Recommend your client takes a Seasonal trends vitamin supplement that is proven to It is not long now until summer arrives promote hair growth. Leading tricholoand this is what you should be talking gist Dr David Kingsley endorses the to your clients about to make the most of current trends: plaits – loose and Nourkin range. undone; hair accessories – bows and • Suggest they have a medical check flowers; crimping – not all over, just up to eliminate any potential problems random sections and low ponytails – such as diabetes, thyroid conditions or fixed to one side. menopausal symptoms. Now is also the time to plan • Encourage them to consider extensummer colour. sions, especially if you offer the service. I look forward to catching up with Modern extensions products and techniques are great but make sure you you all again in July. get the job of cutting them. L-r resident GMTV clothes stylist Mark Hayes, celebrity make-up artist Daniel Sandler and Beverly C and session stylist Steven Glendenning
A range of exclusive stationery and literature for NHF members New brochure out now or visit www.nhf.info
salonplus www.nhf.info
EVENTS Not to be missed…
NHF EVENTS OTHERS Please send in your events to the NHF at enquiries@ nhf.info by May10 to appear in July/August, July 10 to appear in September/October and September 10 to appear in November/December. Updated events listed on www.nhf.info.
16 May
1 6-14 June
British Open Championships at Cardiff
City Stadium, home of Cardiff City Football Club and Cardiff Blues Rugby Club. Open to all hairdressers. A must for those interested in developing their creative career. NHF Inspire will be showcased throughout the day. Presentation awards for NHF Photographic Stylist of the Year. Call 0845 345 6500. r A5 Champs Flye
10/12/09
4:32 pm
Sunday 16th May
2010
you
30-31 May
info@afrohairshow.com.
s, n u
! e it lov ’ll
Cardiff City Stadium Leckwith Road, Cardiff CF11 8AZ
1-3 June Beautyworld Middle East
at Dubai International Convention and Exhibition Centre. More details at www.beautyworldme.com.
5/6 July Wella Professionals Business Network Event. Call 01256 490806.
19-20 Sept Olympia Beauty, at
Grand Hall, Olympia, London. Free trade tickets available from www.olympiabeauty.co.uk.
27 Sept East Midlands Area has booked Patrick Cameron,
Festival Hall, Kirkby in Ashfield. Call Ivan Blount, 01773 745580. Wella Professionals Trend Vision Awards 2010 UK Final. Call 01256 490806.
ries Closing Date For Ent 2nd May 2010 rs’ Federation National Hairdresse 1 Abbey Court Fraser Road k Priory Business Par H Bedford MK44 3W 0 Tel: 0845 345 650 01234 831 965 875 838 34 Fax: 012 fo Website www.nhf.in
3-4 Oct NHF AGM & Conference,
Apex City Quay Hotel, Dundee, Scotland. Call 0845 345 6500 or 01234 831965. NHF Inspire
PAGE 32 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2010
South West Area Championships. Contact Pat or Doug Cording on 01386 561704.
Alexandra Palace, London, N22. Tickets £12 on the door. Available from www.afrohairshow.com, call 020 7498 1795 or email
N BRITISH OPEIN HAIRDRESSHIPG CHAMPIONsserSs S Joi
23 May
Afro Hair and Beauty Live,
Page 1
re Open to all Haird
Hair Expo Australia,
Sydney Convention & Exhibition Centre, Darling Harbour. Tickets online from www. hairexpoaustralia.com.au.
10 Oct Cheshire Championships,
NK Theatres, Romiley Forum, Compstall Road, Romiley, Stockport. Call Ian Barrell on 0161 427 6953.
1 6-18 Oct Salon International,
ExCel, London. Tickets on sale from May 1. Contact the sales team on 020 8652 8268.
6-8 NOV The World Hairdressing Championships, Mondial Coiffure Beaute, Porte de Versailles, Paris. For further details call Stephanie Munno on 01234 834 381.
21 Nov South of England Championships at the
Novotel Southampton. Contact Andrea Light on 01794 521849.
Nailing It
Nail art has something to offer everyone who is interested in capturing the imagination. Most trends stem from the fashion industry and celebrity endorsement: the dark, black-red of Chanel’s Rouge Noir that Uma Thurman wore in Pulp Fiction 16 years ago is still as popular a shade as it was in the 90s. You can spot the next Rouge Noir by keeping an eye on fashion trends in cult films, on the catwalk and by indulging in a spot of celebrity-spotting. Eve and Lindsay Lohan regularly use this medium to express creativity. The younger clients will often be the ones to embrace new trends first but these trends are modified over time to entice even the most conservative of middle-aged customers.
Metallics
Celebrities, such as Mischa Barton and Heidi Klum are sporting metallics the hottest trend for 2010. There is a metallic shade to suit everyone, whether you want to make a strong, bold statement or require a trendy twist on a nude or neutral shade. A desire for black nail polish will remain for a long time yet. It provides rebellion in a bottle, giving a dresseddown grungy look on the one hand, while it can be cool and classy, too, on the other: perfectly polished black nails add an edge to ultra-feminine outfits. However, black is high-maintenance colour because it shows every little chip. This is a factor that gives the added opportunity for increased revenue from frequent repolishing services or retailing of nail-care products. Black also gives a perfect backdrop to either metallic silver or white nail-art designs which will be a good evening look this year. Another hot trend will be shades of white and matte colours, both of which provide a perfect canvas for fresh spring and summer designs.
www.nhf.info
Floral designs are always popular in the summer and this does not look like it will change. Nail art for toes are also expected to be popular this summer, especially simple floral designs.
Weddings
Photo supplied by Nailtopia
Silver, platinum, chrome and graphite are the hottest nail-art trends to watch out for this year, reports Angela Bartlett
A hot nail repertoire will wow your clients and keep them coming back for more
Nail art has become more popular for weddings and brides still request French manicure. The classic pink and a jewel or two, or the white look can be given a most understated of twist with a line of fine crysmetallic designs. tals across the “smile line� Do not overwhelm or adding small, discreet them. Consider their profesbows or butterflies in pink sion, lifestyle and personal or white to bring the classic tastes to ensure the design French nail look up to date. is appropriate. Nail colour and nail art is For those who already linked to face make-up and Angela Bartlett love and enjoy nail art, we have been seeing lots of is chairman of the British Association work on new designs that purple lips on the catwalks of Beauty Therapy you can show them on their and on celebrities such as & Cosmetology and next visit. Rihanna. the Confederation Inspiration can be taken of International Purple lipstick is not for Beauty Therapy from almost anywhere, everyone, but your clients & Cosmetology. including fabric designs and can be on-trend and look elements from nature. pretty in plum with purple shades on their nails combined with metallic, abstract nail-art designs. Demand Many clients are still conservative Introducing nail art does not involve a when it comes to choosing nail art for huge capital outlay so there is really no themselves even though more and financial risk in trying out new designs. more celebrities are taking to it. It always helps if customers can visuClients seem to either love or hate it alise designs so displaying sample nails but some have never even considered is vital, and reception and manicure staff it. The trick is to convert new clients to should model designs on their own nails. nail art, building on the current trend Seasonality as well as fashion trends for more fun in fashion. This is where influence designs. As trends change subtle, simple designs on natural nails from season to season, nail art provides come in. an inexpensive and fun way of keeping Try starting with basic stickers something fresh going on in your salon which are perfect for this because they throughout the year. enable clients with natural nails to Whatever your clients choose, experiment, perhaps by adding one or the result will be unfailingly eye-catchtwo floral designs. ing and will get people talking about A client who has never had nail art your business. before is more likely to try nail art for an evening function when even the most conservative can easily be introduced to
MAY/JUNE 2010 SALONFOCUS PAGE 33
BACKWASH
Lazy days
Stone me! Terrible news, Backwash readers – Lancashire barber Jeff Stone has been barred from taking clients’ hair home to use as compost. Blackburn with Darwen Borough Council says discarded hair qualifies as trade waste and must be emptied at landfill sites. Stone is understood to be terribly upset. And his hairicot beans are thought to be all the poorer. If you have stories for Backwash, send them to the editor at head office or e-mail to sfeditor@salonfocus.co.uk putting Editor Backwash in the subject line.
Did you read about the Norfolk Jobcentre Plus that initially refused to accept an ad for a “reliable” worker for fear it discriminated against unreliable people? Imagine a salon forced to run the following: “This salon welcomes applications from lazy and hardworking hairdressers equally.” Backwash is all for inclusivity but sometimes political correctness can be taken too far.
Gone with
the Hair
Our condolences go to the family of Tran Van Hay, of Vietnam, who has finally departed this world. The length of his “unwashed” hair at the time of death was put at 22ft 3ins. He apparently had been growing his mane for more than 50 years because he often got sick after a haircut. Backwash feels sure it would have been a different story if he had visited an NHF-member salon.
What Sparkly
did next
There is charity and there is charity but Toby Rundle’s sparkly hot-pants will not be to everyone’s liking. The celebrity stylist donned his tight little number complete with white socks at Jo Hansford, in Mayfair, as part of a campaign to raise sponsorship funds for the Hair & Beauty Benevolent’s charity-skydive. Rundle raised £300 that day towards his goal, and no doubt a few eyebrows, too. He threatened to wear the dinky little number again when he planned to join other salon staff for the stratospheric plunge. Backwash hopes birds on the wing will be wearing sunglasses.
NEC-Factor
SalonFocus helps you get to know some of the big policy makers in the NHF from the National Executive Council (NEC) John Armstrong What interests you most about hairdressing? I am NEC member for Eastern Counties and what interests me about hairdressing more than anything else is the clients and colleagues – the satisfaction of providing a total experience for the client. I have always been interested in the technical side of hairdressing. What would you like to achieve? My hairdressing ambitions for the future focus on the NHF. In the last year we have made a huge move forward and achieved what we had not managed to do in the previous 10. I am determined to see the objectives set out in the Strategy for the 21st Century achieved. The key ones for me are to increase membership, and to make the NHF the national voice of British hairdressing – not just one of the players – and raise standards and professionalism in hairdressing. What interests do you have outside hairdressing? I enjoy fishing, watercolour painting, a bit of golf, supporting Norwich City and being with my three grandchildren. They sharpen up the little grey cells with their constant questions and speed of actions.
PAGE 34 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2010
Ann Goddard What interests you most about hairdressing? I chair the West of Scotland Area. Hairdressing is exciting and there is always something new to learn because of changes from season to season. Hairdressing is an obsession with me, especially competition work. What would you like to achieve? I hope to gain a wealth of new experiences as part of the new NHF structure and as a new member of the NEC so that longer term I will be in the position to pass on my hairdressing strengths and knowledge to further the education of others and encourage training within the industry. What interests do you have outside hairdressing? I am a member and past president of Inner Wheel of Hamilton, the ladies section of Rotary. We do lots of work to raise money for charities. I am a team leader at our local drop-in centre and sit on the main organising committee which is run through the local churches of Scotland.
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