SalonFocus May-June 2012

THE ESSENTIAL MAGAZINE FOR SALON OWNERS

MAY/JUNE 2012 | £3.50

Budget crackdown on chair renting Hairdressers worst for flouting minimum wage Salons warned over Olympics disruption NHF launches search for ‘Britain’s Best’

WAVELENGTH

Salons must learn to love the minimum wage (at least a bit) much it may be grumbled about). We are all of us dragged Exactly who was the first person to coin the phrase, “there down by these sorts of conclusions. are lies, damned lies and statistics” has become lost in the More worrying, a report such as this firmly puts mists of time, although the nineteenth century Liberal hairdressing in the firing line when it comes to compliance politician Sir Charles Dilke is apparently the most popular and enforcement. It’s not hard to link, on the one hand, candidate, should you be interested. Nevertheless it is a what the BIS is saying with, on the other, the Low Pay phrase many hard-working, reputable salon owners will Commission urging government to “make frequent use” probably be muttering under their breath when they read of naming and shaming and reach a rather depressing on page six the Department for Business, Innovation conclusion. Yes times are tough – and the government’s and Skills’ (BIS) damning conclusions about how our decision to freeze the wage for juniors is absolutely industry consistently fails to pay apprentices the national the right one in the current economic and youth minimum wage due to them. unemployment climate – but the message has to be that We’re not, of course, suggesting the government’s salons may not like the national minimum wage but we report is factually wrong. Its methodology, as central recognise it is the law, it is there for government statistics have to be, is very good reasons and we all accept it rigorous and substantive and it has used a “The message has to is not something to try to bend, fudge, significantly sized sample base. Yet there cut corners or skirt around. If anything, are findings within it, it is arguable, about be that salons may NHF salons, as the industry’s “good which right-minded salon owners might guys”, need to be the ones actively be forgiven for scratching their heads. For not like the national championing the value of decent pay example, it is strongly minimum wage but and good practices. intimated that, because The government also, of course, put hairdressing apprentices the industry’s chair renting practices into are so frequently paid less we recognise it is spotlight in March, as we report on than the NMW yet also the law, it is there for the page five. Chancellor George Osborne’s among the most likely to move to close what he branded the VAT be paid tips, some salons very good reasons “loophole” around the tax treatment of therefore must be using and we all accept it chair renting arrangements is, at one tips illegally to top-up level, welcome. It clarifies what has been salaries to NMW levels. Yet is not something to up to now a somewhat unclear legal there is no firm, concrete situation and, in effect, means salons are evidence backing or try to bend, fudge, pretty much (to use one of the coalition’s refuting this either way. favourite slogans) “all in it together” Similarly, you can cut corners or skirt when it comes to VAT and chair renting, argue the quite significant around’” with the NHF’s licence agreement now difference between the set to become the de facto industry mean and median NMW standard in this area. paid to hairdressing apprentices could Yet by consulting on tightening the well suggest quite a lot of salons that are law still further, a change that could lead paying above the NMW are in fact paying to hairdressers being unfairly penalised and singled out quite well above it. The criticism, too, that hairdressing is the worst in the country at paying apprentices for overtime when compared with others who rent serviced commercial space, even compared with others who rent serviced can also, at least in part, be blamed on the vagaries of how commercial salon space, the government is setting itself up salon hours tend to work. As any salon owner will well for a battle of wills. The NHF has already strongly contested know, it is very easy for someone to run over when close attention is needing to be paid to a client; getting a style or the merit of this proposed change and, if need be, will continue to fight it all the way. Watch this space. look right and clock-watching don’t sit well together.

The problem is that we can quibble, splutter and go “but, but” all we like, but what the government has done with this report is throw a significant bucket of mud at the trade, some of which inevitably is going to stick. To an extent it doesn’t matter that NHF member salons are the reputable end of this industry and, one would very much hope, cast-iron “legit” when it comes to the NMW (however

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MAY/JUNE 2012 SALONFOCUS PAGE 3

CONTENTS OUR CONTRIBUTORS

News

10 11 12

Budget closes chair renting VAT “loophole” Half of hairdressing apprentices paid under minimum wage Salons warned to prepare for Olympics’ disruption Major new NHF competition to celebrate “Britain’s Best” Demand for tighter controls on dermal fillers Members rally to Federation call on careers Analysis: enforcing restrictive covenants

Features

05 06 08 09

21 22 24 26-27 30

Put a premium on protection – why it pays to maintain insurance cover Safety in numbers – how to protect sensitive card data Prom promise – school proms are becoming big business Public spirited – the benefits of throwing yourself into your community Back to basics – get comfortable about backwash chairs

Inspired

Regulars

17-20

03 06 09 14 15-16 28 33 34

A protégé of Vidal Sassoon and Leonard Lewis, Daniel Galvin was the first UK colourist to launch a signature line of professional hair colourants, expanding into Japan and the Far East in the 1990s.

He was made an OBE in 2006 and continues to be passionate about colour and the industry.

Heidi Morton is insurance administration manager with Coversure Insurance Services, the NHF’s recommended insurance broker.

Steven Goldsworthy is artistic director of Goldsworthy’s hairdressing in Swindon and Cirencester. He has won British Hairdresser of the Year, Wales and South West three times and is a member of the British Hairdressing Hall of Fame.

Clive Kahn is chief executive of card payment specialist Cardsave

Basil Long is senior legal consultant at Legal Lifeline operator Croner.

Michael Mehmet is owner, with Sharon Hennessey, of Tikadi, operating two salons, in Theydon Bois and Ongar in Essex. In November last year the Ongar salon won the Excellent Customer Service category at the inaugural Mid Essex Business Awards.

Cheryl Swarbrick is owner of Charlie Girl in Blackpool and president of the Blackpool branch of the NHF.

Gillian Dowling work for Croner as employment technical consultant.

Resonant – the latest collection from the Trevor Sorbie artistic team Wavelength – Salons must learn to love the minimum wage (at least a bit) HairClips – call to train hairdressers in cancer detection Movers and Groovers – Goldsworthy’s at the Super Bowl Cutting Brief – your legal problems solved Federation Focus – NHF Inspire’s new manager Column – Daniel Galvin on popsicles and finger painting Events – key dates for your diary Backwash – science behind the ponytail

PAGE 4 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2012

Front Cover Hair: Trevor Sorbie Art Team Photography: Anthony Maule Clothes Styling: Tamara Rothstein Make-up: Maxine Leonard

SALONFOCUS IS PUBLISHED BY: National Hairdressers’ Federation, One Abbey Court, Fraser Road, Priory Business Park, Bedford MK44 3WH t: 0845 345 6500 t: 01234 831965 f: 01234 838875 e: sfenquiries@salonfocus.co.uk w: www.nhf.info PUBLISHER Eileen Lawson BSc FCIS FRSA e: eileen.lawson@nhf.info EDITOR Nic Paton e: sfeditor@salonfocus.co.uk EDITORIAL CONSULTANT Andrew Don e: sfeditor@salonfocus.co.uk EVENTS Tina Beaumont t: 0845 345 6500 e: tina.beaumont@nhf.info AD SALES Mainline Media Ltd The Barn, Oakley Hay Lodge Business Park, Great Oakley, Northants NN18 9AS t: +44 (0) 1536 747333 f: +44 (0) 1536 746565 w: www.mainlinemedia.co.uk Advertising Sales Manager Tricia McDougall e: tricia.mcdougall@mainlinemedia. co.uk Advertising Production Manager Craig Barber e: craig.barber@mainlinemedia.co.uk DESIGN & PRODUCTION Matrix Print Consultants Ltd t: 01536 527297 e: martin@matrixprint.com While every care is taken in compiling this issue of SalonFocus including manuscripts and photographs submitted, we accept no responsibility for any losses or damage, whatever the cause. All information and prices contained in advertisements are accepted by the publishers in good faith as being correct at the time of going to press. Neither the advertisers nor the publishers accept any responsibility for any variations affecting price variations or availability after the publication has gone to press. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the permission of the publisher, to whom application must first be made. The views expressed by contributors to SalonFocus are not necessarily those of the NHF, the publisher or its editor. © 2011 The National Hairdressers’ Federation.

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Please include salon name, photographer & stylist.

NEWS

Budget closes chair renting VAT ‘loophole’ Salons seeking to contract out space to chair renters are being advised to use the NHF’s standard licence agreement, following government moves in March to tighten up the tax treatment of such arrangements.

Chancellor George Osborne in his Budget moved to close what he described as a VAT “loophole” around chair renting, announcing the law would be changed from October so that VAT will be applied to chair renting with only a very few, limited exceptions.

The change was not included in the chancellor’s speech to Parliament but was outlined within the main Budget document published by the Treasury.

The move clarifies what has hitherto been a somewhat grey area for salons following a series of court rulings between 2007 and 2009 in the cases of two salons, The Studio Hair Company in King’s Lynn, Norfolk and Vigdor Limited, of Queensway, west London (SalonFocus, March/ April 2009, right).

These test cases – which were funded by the NHF – addressed the issue of whether a chair rental agreement, as a licence to occupy “land” within a salon, could be treated as a VATexempt separate entity or was, in effect, part of a “composite” service offered by the salon that included the use of other salon facilities, such as utilities and equipment, and therefore would not be exempt from VAT. This is the principal loophole the chancellor is seeking to close.

The High Court in 2009 ruled such a licence to occupy land was only valid to be VAT-exempt if it could be proved the chair renter’s use of the land, and all the services and provisions used within it, was exclusive to them and unavailable to anyone else, including the salon owner.

The NHF as a result withdrew its existing lease document and replaced it with a standard licence document.

Now, to complicate matters further, as well as the change from October the government has published a consultation document that, if accepted, would tighten the law still more in this area.

The consultation, called VAT: Addressing Borderline Anomalies, runs until May 4 and has proposed that any salon that rents a designated room to GEORGE OSBORNE: VAT a hairdresser, even if use of the space is CHANGE 100 per cent exclusive but where there

www.nhf.info

are joint ancillary services, such as reception, towel laundering or cleaning, will also become subject to VAT. The Federation has already responded strongly to this consultation, arguing that a move such as this would risk penalising hairdressers unduly because it would mean hairdressers potentially being treated differently, and more harshly in terms of VAT, than any other business tenant who rented serviced commercial space.

As SalonFocus went to press the Federation was due to be meeting formally with HM Revenue & Customs to raise the concerns of the industry.

NHF secretary general Eileen Lawson said: “What the change announced in the Budget emphasises is that anyone who has a chair rental agreement that is structured around a VAT-exempt supply rental agreement needs to review it urgently and consider transferring before October to the Federation’s standard licence agreement.

“The Federation has identified a small minority of members – around 130 – who are operating under our current designated lease agreements and therefore potentially at risk. We have written to them individually as a matter of urgency highlighting the changes, and will be in continuous correspondence with them between now and October.

“When it comes to the further consultation, we believe what the government is looking to impose here is unacceptable and contrary to EU VAT rules. Why should hairdressers – who are the only occupation specifically mentioned in this context – be treated differently to anyone else who rents space, even in fact to anyone else who rents space within a salon, such as beauty therapists or nail technicians?” she added.

Away from chair renting, the March Budget had only relatively minor announcements for hairdressing salons.

The chancellor’s move to raise the personal income tax allowance, to £8,105 from last month and then £9,205 from April 2013, was welcomed by Federation president Mark Coray as potentially putting money into the pockets of shoppers.

The move would be good news “if it gives people a bit more confidence to spend”, he said.

The government’s decision to offer cheap loans to young entrepreneurs, on similar terms to those offered on student loans, was also felt generally to be positive, given the fact that hairdressing is traditionally a young and entrepreneurial sector.

MAY/JUNE 2012 SALONFOCUS PAGE 5

NEWS

Half of hairdressing apprentices paid under minimum wage, says government Nearly half of hairdressing apprentices are being paid less than the national minimum wage (NMW), with the industry by far the worst for flouting low pay legislation, according to a damning government report.

The Apprenticeship Pay Survey 2011 by the Department for Business, Innovation and Skills was released to coincide with ministers accepting the recommendation by the Low Pay Commission (LPC), the body that sets NMW rates, that the wage for workers aged under 20 should be frozen from October to try and stimulate youth employment.

The research polled 11,020 apprentices comparing their experiences in a range of industries and sectors.

Nearly half – 48 per cent – of hairdressing apprentices said they were being paid below the NMW due to them.

By comparison in the next sector down, construction, this figure was 31 per cent, suggesting hairdressing was the worst performer by a significant margin.

The average or median gross hourly pay was £2.64, just above the current apprentices’ NMW rate of £2.60 an hour.

The mean gross hourly rate was better, at £3.39, yet still meant hairdressing apprentices were “the worst remunerated group and mirroring findings for England in 2005 and 2007”, the report said.

Moreover, 59 per cent of hairdressing apprentices said they were “never” paid for overtime, again significantly ahead of the next worst performer, business administration, at 46 per cent.

However, programme co-ordinator at South Devon College and NEC member Nikki Boone questioned whether the survey had fully taken into account the fact hairdressing is not a rigid 9-5 environment, so making calculating what is or is not overtime often very difficult.

“It is not always clear what time the last client is going to leave, depending on the type of hair and the service they receive, so I can see how the odd half hour here and there can add up,” she said.

A total of 12 per cent of NIKKI BOONE: QUESTIONS

PAGE 6 SALONFOCUS MARCH/APRIL 2012

apprentices across the board, from all sectors, said they received tips, rising to 37 per cent within hairdressing.

While a quarter of apprentices overall who said they received less than the minimum wage also received tips, in hairdressing this proportion was 85 per cent, it added.

“Given their low levels of pay, there is a potential danger that ‘Hairdressing Apprentices’ wages are still being topped up by tips, which should not happen after changes to the NMW legislation in 2009,” the report concluded.

But this was a finding Nikki Boone also questioned. “Clients will always tip the junior, as they know they are on low pay and, in my experience, this has always been on top of their wages, not to make up a wage, as the poll suggests,” she said.

About the only positive finding was hairdressing’s clear commitment to on- and offthe-job training.

More than half – 51 per cent – of hairdressing apprentices said they received off-the-job training, and 81 per cent received on-the-job training, the fourth and third highest percentages by sector respectively.

The government’s acceptance of the LPC’s recommendations means the NMW for 18- to 20-year-olds (the Youth Development Rate) will be held at £4.98 an hour from October and the rate for 16- to 17-year-olds will remain at £3.68.

However, the adult minimum wage rate will increase, to £6.19 from £6.08, and the apprentice rate will rise to £2.65 from £2.60 an hour.

Among its recommendations, the commission urged the government not only to “name and shame” firms that infringe the wage but “make frequent use of it”.

Such naming and shaming is something the NHF has long campaigned against, with NEC member Ann Goddard pointing out that one of the biggest problems for salons, especially small ones, is the complexity of administering the wage, meaning it is all too possible to make an honest mistake.

“It can be very confusing for salon owners to know exactly what wage they should be paying to whom and when. Rather than naming and shaming, the government needs to be offering more advice and support so salons – and small businesses generally – can be helped to stay within the law,” she told SalonFocus.

HAIRCLIPS CALL FOR CANCER TRAINING Hairdressers should be given training in checking for skin cancer, doctors in the US have said, arguing that detection of head and neck melanomas could be improved “by capitalising on the role of hairdressers and their unique relationship with our potential clients”. The NHF last year backed an initiative by the Melanoma Taskforce for hairdressers to do just this.

KEN TAYLOR

The NHF is sad to announce Ken Taylor, secretary for the North West Region, passed away in March. A stalwart of the Federation for more than 30 years, long-term colleague and immediate past president of the Cheshire branch Ian Barrell said he would be sorely missed. “He was extremely conscientious and meticulous, a true friend and always prepared to listen to people.”

BURGLARS TARGETING SALONS

Police have been investigating a spate of burglaries in Cleethorpes that appear to have been targeting salons. Of 19 break-ins during February, 13 related to salons, with one salon, Freedom, being broken into three times in one week. Owner Sally Robinson told SalonFocus: “The police have been saying they think salons are seen as easy targets because they are small and generally do not have shutters.”

BALDNESS DISCOVERY

Scientists in America say they have discovered one of the biological clues behind the cause of male baldness. The researchers, in the journal Science Translational Medicine, said they had pinpointed a protein that triggers the hair loss, a discovery that could lead to a cream for treatment.

NEWS

Salons warned to prepare for Olympic disruption

Salons near Olympic and Paralympic Games sporting venues are having to draw up contingency plans to cope with serious transport, supply and staffing disruption that it is feared could accompany July’s sporting extravaganza.

While it is hoped the games will provide a much needed boost to the economy and bring thousands of visitors on to Britain’s high streets, there are concerns businesses located in towns and cities with games’ venues could face significant business continuity problems.

Research from Olympic sponsor BT has found almost a third of businesses have not made basic preparations for interruptions, unavailability of staff and transport delays.

Public transport operator Transport for London has estimated on busy days the transport network in the capital will have to cope with an additional three million journeys, and has even recommended workers go the pub after work for a time to stagger their journeys home.

Celebrity colourist and SalonFocus columnist Daniel Galvin, whose main salon is in London’s West End, is one who has been prompted into action after surveying 1,000 clients and discovering 33 per cent said they had no intention of coming into the centre of the capital during the games.

Operations director Stephen Nurse told SalonFocus: “We have been relaxing our usual holiday criteria about how many people can be off at once and extending opening hours from 6pm to 8pm.”

The salon would be encouraging customers to come in before the games and was ordering four to six weeks of supplies from its main manufacturers because of fears deliveries could be “a nightmare”.

Stephen added: “We will warehouse supplies. People should seriously consider that. When STEPHEN NURSE: you haven’t got STOCKPILING

PAGE 8 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2012

OLYMPICS: OPPORTUNITY AND RISK

that one shade or that one colour it’s a problem. You can’t stick your head in the sand. You have to plan for it and make sure you are organised.”

New NHF Inspire mentor Trevor Sorbie’s Covent Garden salon is surrounded by six tube station Olympic “hotspots”, or stations where it is expected there may be disruption.

Trevor told SalonFocus he himself intended to go away on the day the games started and not return until they were over.

When it came to the salon he added: “We will shorten our hours of business.

There’s lots of negativity, not towards the games, but towards what will happen business-wise. We will cut back as much as we can in that two-week period and hopefully catch up when it’s over.”

With Olympic events being held all over the country, including in Manchester, Coventry, Cardiff, Newcastle and Glasgow, among others, it is not just salons in London that could be affected.

Trevor Sorbie, for example, said he planned to look at the possible effects on his Manchester salon.

NHF president Mark Coray, whose salon Coray & Co is in Cardiff, agreed it was possible clients could cry off making appointments during big events, but he was confident things would even out because they would return another time.

Another possible issue is staff pretending to call in sick or simply not

turning up to work so they can watch events.

Mark, for one, predicted this would not be a huge issue in his salon. “I think my team are interested in what goes on but they are not massive sports fans.”

What salons would welcome was better communication from councils about where and when they might expect disruption.

“If businesses know when events are, they can plan half days, late nights or early finishes,” Mark said.

In a separate development, hairdressing trainees from South Devon College are set to take a starring role in the Olympic and Paralympic opening ceremonies in Weymouth and Portland, Dorset, which will be hosting sailing events.

Around 15 Level 2 and Level 3 students will be styling 17 models to take part in a torch relay procession through Exeter later this month, which will be the precursor to the official opening ceremony procession on July 27.

“The theme is going to be the sea, so it will be blue and wavy and there will be a lot of body painting going on. It will be very extravagant and over the top!” said programme co-ordinator Nikki Boone.

“Everyone is absolutely excited and thrilled about it, they cannot wait. It’s also going to be an excellent thing for people to have on their CV as well as, more widely, really put the college on the map. This is a fantastic opportunity for hairdressing to show what it can do,” she added.

NEWS

NHF to celebrate ‘Britain’s Best’

with new competition

The NHF will this autumn be launching a major new interactive artistic and style competition designed to find “Britain’s Best” stylists, barbers and salon owners, as well as celebrate the work of many otherwise unsung contributors to the trade.

The Britain’s Best competition will be held on November 18 at the Hilton Metropole Hotel in Birmingham.

But in what is believed to be a first for the industry, it will not just be what happens in Birmingham that decides who wins, there will be a number of categories where the winners can be nominated by text by colleagues and clients and which will be announced on the day.

The Birmingham event will comprise three distinct components starting with a floor competition. The competitions will be split into the following categories: Ladies Fashion (senior and junior); Gents (senior and junior) and Newcomer, with 11 competitions being held altogether.

Alongside this, there will be Popularity Poll where nominations will be gathered by text message. These will cover the following Britain’s Best categories: • Stylist/barber of the year • Salon owner/manager of the year • Receptionist of the year • College lecturer of the year • College student of the year • Charity worker of the year The final element will be an innovative photographic competition called the “Click & Send” Head of the Year.

The idea is, simply, for people to style, photograph and then send in their favourite shots using their mobile phones. This could be of a client, colleague or member of your family, even a self portrait.

All those short-listed will attend the Britain’s Best event where they will be expected to recreate the style on a model on the competition floor.

NHF president Mark Coray said: “This is a competition that will take Britain by storm this autumn and, I predict, will bring a whole new angle to the showmanship and individual dedication our industry is so well known for.

“Every hairdresser, and anyone associated with hairdressing, needs to be part of it. The other really exciting thing is how Britain’s Best will use the latest technology to show off our industry’s abilities and fantastic ideas,” he added.

There will be full details of the competition, the different categories and how to enter or vote in the July/August edition of SalonFocus.

A dedicated website for the competition also went “live” from May 1, and can be found at: www.britainsbest.me

www.nhf.info

MOVERS&GROOVERS BOWLED OVER

Joshua Goldsworthy and Morgan Bisley from Goldsworthy’s in Swindon displayed their talents at this year’s Super Bowl in March, at least indirectly. They were the hairdressing team for the 2012 calendar for online gaming company World of Tanks, creating military-style hairstyles and “hats” out of hair. The calendar was given out in “goodie bags” in the celebrity enclosures.

NEW HUDDERSFIELD PRESIDENT

YOUR HAIR AWARDS

The Andrew Barton Salon has been named Best London Hair Salon by the readers of Your Hair magazine. Cardiff salon Ken Picton also won the Best Salon in Wales and the South West trophy.

JUNIOR WINNERS

Congratulations to Philip Cooling, who received his chain of office from Neil Kaye in March to take up the helm as new president of the NHF Huddersfield Network Group. Philip runs Rogers Hairdressing in Mirfield, West Yorkshire.

BOLLYWOOD STYLE

Congratulations to stylists Danielle Modlock and Alex James who were winner and runner-up respectively in this year’s Junior of the Year Awards held by Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa. Leon Llobera and Eletira Guggeri were winner and runner-up respectively in the technical achievement award category.

SEANHANNA CHARITY DRIVE Bonce salons was celebrating in February after styling the hair for Deana Uppal who went on to be crowned Miss India UK 2012 and Miss Bollywood 2012. Creative director Donna Mitchell was specifically asked by Deana to create a sophisticated up-do and long, tumbling waves.

HABB FUND-RAISER

A total of £750 was raised at the fifth Hair & Beauty Benevolent Women’s Networking Breakfast in March, held at the Goldwell Academy, and which included a talk by industry expert Michelle Feeney.

The team at seanhanna Bristol raised more than £250 in February by visiting the local offices of Rolls-Royce and offering staff a quick cut and style for charity. The money raised will go towards the Sue Ryder charity.

ACTING TALENT

Some of the UK’s top actors turned to Clipso creative director Darren Fowler for their styling for this year’s Bafta awards in February. Darren styled, among others, Downton Abbey’s Joanne Froggatt, Vanessa Kirby, who appeared in Great Expectations and Alexandra Roach from The Iron Lady.

MAY/JUNE 2012 SALONFOCUS PAGE 9

NEWS

Call for tighter controls

on dermal fillers

Pressure is mounting for stricter curbs to be enforced on the dermal fillers increasingly used in hairdressing and beauty salons, amid fears lax regulations over who is allowed to carry out the injections could be putting the public at risk.

Unlike the muscle relaxant Botox (Botulinum toxin), which is classified as a medicine and regulated by the Medicines and Healthcare Products Regulatory Agency and therefore can only be prescribed and injected by medical professionals, there are many fewer controls over dermal fillers.

Anyone can inject dermal fillers, of which there are about 160 types in the UK. While most reputable salons will hire doctors and trained nurses to carry out procedures, the growing popularity of the market means calls are growing for dermal fillers to be classified in the same way as Botox.

Dermal fillers only need what is known as a “CE” mark in the UK, which also appears on washing machines and toys and shows such products can be legally placed on the market.

The US, by comparison, has fewer than 10 permitted fillers, all of which are classified as medicines and have gone through Food and Drug Administration clearance.

Injectables can have serious adverse effects, such as the allergic reaction suffered by actor Leslie Ash, whose notorious “trout pout” caused her great distress, and one concern is medical staff who simply SALLY TABER: visit a salon once or POTENTIAL DISASTER twice a month might not always be available to respond to issues or questions that arise posttreatment.

Another worry is that the lack of regulation could mean procedures end up being carried out by beauty therapists with little or no training.

HELLEN WARD: NEED Sally Taber, director FOR TRAINING

PAGE 10 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2012

of standards and training for Treatments You Can Trust, a Department of Healthbacked register of regulated cosmetic injectable providers managed by the Independent Healthcare Advisory Service, is one of those pushing for dermal fillers to be classified as medicines.

It was “totally inappropriate” for beauty therapists to be involved in giving injectables, she argued.

“We could have a real disaster and we will all be asking ourselves how this could happen” she added.

Hellen Ward, managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa, is a long-time critic of salons that carry out such services and told SalonFocus: “I still concur with the opinion that injectables have no place in a beauty salon unless they are carried out by trained medical professionals and even then I think the natural place for having such procedures has to be a surgery.”

Caroline Gisbourne, owner of Bloomin Beautiful hair and beauty salon in Swindon, Wiltshire, agreed a lot of treatments were crossing the boundary into cosmetic medicine.

Her salon uses a doctor who rents a room once a fortnight for a few hours to offer treatments.

“Salons out there doing a good job and using professional people and which have had everything checked out won’t have problems when regulations come into place. The only problem I would have when this happens is if they charge huge fees for it,” she said.

The British Association of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons has called for an advertising ban on dermal fillers, claiming a “cowboy” market has been allowed to flourish. National Health Service medical director Professor Sir Bruce Keogh is looking at the rules governing non-surgical procedures which can be administered by those with no medical training.

And the Private Independent Aesthetic Practices Association is calling for meaningful regulation and training that focuses on the skills, knowledge and experience of the injectors, as well as the products themselves.

By Andrew Don

DERMAL FILLERS: LOBBYING

The British Association of Beauty Therapy and Cosmetology (BABTAC) has said it wants a list of approved qualifications and training standards that all practitioners must reach regardless of their profession and a database of approved practitioners, who should be spot-checked and reviewed annually to ensure good practice.

It has also said it would like to see a limited preferred list of filler products being drawn up, so reducing the number of products on the market to between five and ten and bringing the UK more in line with the US. Alan Goldsbro, chief executive of Habia, the standards-setting body for the hair, nails and spa sector, added: “Habia’s position remains clear. On no account should anyone without the proper qualifications – as required by the Department of Health-backed register of cosmetic injectable providers – be administering these treatments.”

Dr Askari Townsend, from Sk:n, which has 40 clinics, said he looked forward to regulation for dermal fillers because only medical professionals should be able to perform such treatments after proper training.

“In the wrong environment, serious problems can occur. We don’t cut hair... or offer massages as these are not our area of expertise,” he said.

NEWS

Members rally to

Federation call on careers The NHF’s call for careers’ advice in schools and colleges to be vastly improved so that young people better appreciate the opportunities offered by – and are better prepared for the challenges of – a career in hairdressing has struck a distinct chord with members, leading to an unprecedented postbag coming into Bedford head office.

Responding to a government move in January to downgrade more than 3,100 “GCSE equivalent” vocational qualifications, including hairdressing, Federation president Mark Coray said the bigger issue was why schools and colleges so often failed properly to explain to young people the skills CAREERS CA hairdressing required or assumed it was just LL: STRUCK A CHORD a destination for academic low achievers (SalonFocus, March/April 2012).

“Hairdressing is a tough industry “Hairdressing can be for everyone and mentally and physically and people should anyone. Yes, it can work for you if you are be prepared,” he added. not particularly academic but it is also a very “At last! I have been so despondent skilled industry, very creative and dedicated, regarding the fact apprentices have been and you do need some maths, knowledge applying with basic experience but lacking of chemistry and great communication the skills to complete coursework and skills,” agreed Zoe Stapp, owner of Classics manage payments. I feel they have been Hairdressing in Eastbourne.

“You can run your own business, you can misled by schools pushing them off early to make way for the more able,” said Vanessa teach, you can work for a big manufacturer, Hendra, director of Hendra Hair and you can travel the world. To an extent, is Beauty in Truro. there any industry that provides as many “Hundred per cent agree. There different job opportunities for as many is a general lack of knowledge and people as hairdressing?” she added. understanding of what is required to be “We have experience of career advisors a professional hairdresser,” said Richard sending young people to us with a belief Dandy, marketing and media manager of that because they have been low achievers Spires Hairdressing in East Grinstead. at school our industry would suit them well,” “Salons, I feel, should be speaking said David Maxwell, of David Maxwell in schools and going to careers’ fairs to Hairdressing in Bath. explain what hairdressing is about,” he “We certainly do not function in this added. way – in fact, we only “Far too often when it interview people who comes to interviewing new have GCSE grade C or candidates for a role in my salon above in English, maths I find I am giving careers’ advice and science. If a student instead. Many believe they do is told they would be not need the grades to get into suited to hairdressing hairdressing,” agreed Sandra because they are a low Wood, of SW1 Hair and Beauty achiever at school and in Tunbridge Wells. then I explain we only Do you have an opinion? employ candidates with DAVID MAXWELL: Then get in touch at sfenquiries@ at least three GCSEs, it can salonfocus.co.uk BETTER ADVICE demoralise them.

www.nhf.info

NHF members brave

the media spotlight

QUESTIONED: NIKKI BOONE ON CAMERA

Four leading members of the Federation voluntarily offered themselves up for a grilling by the media during February – all in the name of learning how to do it better.

NHF president Mark Coray, vice-president Paul Curry, Barbers’ Elite team manager James Beattie and NEC member and trainer Nikki Boone took part in a special NHF “media skills” training day.

The intensive day of public speaking, role play and mock press and TV interviewing was run by former BBC journalist and broadcaster Christopher Slade, documentary maker and cameraman Mike Ford and SalonFocus editor Nic Paton.

It aims to start a process of giving a wider pool of members the skills to present themselves effectively in public and handle media requests, and so help to raise the Federation’s public profile.

“I’ve already been using some of the techniques I learned. The course has given me so much more confidence to speak in public, whether on stage or working with members and when talking to journalists. It is all about being able to be, or at the very least come across as, more confident,” said Nikki.

“It was a real eye-opener, I learnt a lot from it and have been using it,” agreed James.

MAY/JUNE 2012 SALONFOCUS PAGE 11

ANALYSIS

Art of the covenant Very simply, restrictive covenants protect your business. There are four main types of restrictive covenant (see panel) and they recognise you have spent a lot of time, effort and money building up your business and client base and training your staff. You don’t want anyone who leaves to be able to take this with them.

That’s the good news. The bad news is restrictive covenant clauses can be problematic and complex, so it is important to bear a number of points in mind.

First, while you may wish to try to impose restrictive covenants on selfemployed people working for you, such restrictions tend to be rare because they run the risk – at least in the eyes of the law – of changing the dynamic of the relationship from employer/contractor to employer/employee.

Second, just because you have a restrictive covenant does not make it binding. In order to enforce it, the restriction must be “reasonable” or it will simply be removed by a court or tribunal.

What is reasonable?

A number of factors need to be considered when assessing the “reasonability” of a clause. The most common clauses to try to enforce against a former employee are “non-compete” clauses.

Clearly, there is a great benefit for an employee and the economy as a whole in someone being allowed to work elsewhere. Therefore there are relatively few circumstances considered reasonable to prevent such movement; only those absolutely necessary to protect your business will be allowed.

Moreover, it stands to reason such clauses only operate where they “compete”; in other words if someone leaves to go into another industry there is no risk to your business and so any Basil Long is senior clause will not operate. legal consultant Non-solicit at Legal Lifeline and confidential operator Croner. information clauses

PAGE 12 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2012

The NHF’s Legal Lifeline has recently received a number of calls regarding restrictive covenants. But there can be confusion as to what these actually are and how to enforce them. Basil Long explains.

The four main types of restrictive covenants

How the NHF’s standard contracts can help

•

The standard NHF contract contains all four restrictive covenants and has been drafted in a way that is reasonable in all circumstances.

The non-compete clause prevents the former employee operating within half a mile for six months or from soliciting clients or employees from you for six months.

While the Legal Lifeline has a team dedicated to enforcing the standard NHF contract, you will still need to act promptly as soon as possible. You will also need to acquire as much evidence as possible – copies of advertisements, leaflets, Facebook or Twitter posts and details of any customers that have been contacted. Make sure, too, your customer database is as secure as possible and cannot be copied without your permission.

Finally, while the majority of any legal work will be covered by your NHF insurance, there is an excess of £750, so you need to make sure the loss justifies the cost of proceeding.

•

•

•

Anti-moonlighting. This applies whilst the person still works for you. It prevents them working in a competing business at the same time.

Confidential data. These prevent someone taking your essential information. Usually this will be client details but it can include any business plans, product or supplier lists, or systems or procedures you use.

Non-solicit. Non-solicit clauses prevent anyone leaving your business from contacting other people associated with your business. This can include your employees, suppliers or customers.

Non-compete. These clauses try to prevent someone leaving from setting up in competition with you.

seek to stop an employee gaining a leg-up from you. They make the former employee undertake the same work in building a client base or staff base as you have already done.

Again, these need to be timerestricted. You need to look at the wording: does the clause simply prevent the former employee actively advertising to, or attempting to engage, your clients or employees? Or is it more wideranging in attempting to prevent the former employee undertaking any work whatsoever for any of your customers?

The latter is much less likely to be considered “reasonable” as it is attempting to distort competition and prevent your customers going to whichever stylist they choose.

Enforcement

Another important consideration is enforcing the restriction. What do you actually want from it? Do you want to prevent a former employee from breaching it or do you just want to be compensated for the breach? You will need to be reasonable about what

you are seeking: the clause is all about protecting your business, not punishing a former employee for leaving.

Proving, or evidencing, the breach can be another problem. While with a non-compete clause it will be a matter of fact if they have moved salon, what proof do you have they are offering, say, mobile services within the restricted area?

With a non-solicit clause you will need proof, perhaps advertising or a statement from a customer, the former employee has been actively approaching clients.

The mere fact a client has gone to them does not constitute a solicitation.

Finally, you need to ensure you have any clauses in the contract at the outset.

It is vital to review them if an employee changes roles, locations or responsibilities.

Again, this is where using the standard NHF contract (see panel) is essential.

CUTTING BRIEF

Your legal problems

solved

Last week our junior stylist committed two separate acts of misconduct: she was half an hour late one day and then three days later she left work before the end of her shift, without permission because she was expecting a delivery. She has a clean record to date, and neither of the issues are serious enough for gross misconduct. Is it okay to discipline for one, issue a warning and then build upon that warning for the second matter?

Because both events have already occurred it would be unfair and unreasonable to treat the issues separately. I would advise you investigate both issues thoroughly, and invite the employee to one disciplinary hearing.

In your invitation letter you should identify two separate allegations, and they should be addressed separately in the hearing. If a disciplinary sanction is appropriate, then one misconduct warning would be issued, at a level appropriate for either one of the warnings: you would not add the offences together and issue a higher level warning.

Moving forward, if you investigate an incident as it arises you should be able to issue an appropriate warning in a timely manner which may avoid a situation similar to this happening.

Now an extra public holiday has been confirmed to celebrate the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee are we obliged to give all staff the additional holiday?

Whether or not there is a legal obligation to pay employees for bank and public holidays will depend on the wording of the employee’s contract of employment.

Where the contract specifically provides for a set number of days leave, which includes public holidays, there will be no obligation on an employer to increase this to reflect the additional bank holiday on the June 5.

If the organisation is open on this day and staff wish to take the day off, then they can elect to book a day’s annual leave. This request should be considered in line with business needs on a first come, first served basis.

If the business intends to close on this day and staff do not want to take it as one of the eight days they are entitled to then the employer can give notice to insist they take the leave.

The notice required should be twice the amount as the leave required to take, for example two days notice to take one day off (unless their contract requires greater notice to be served).

If, however, your contract allows for a specific number of days/weeks leave, plus all bank and public holidays, you will be required to either allow your staff the day off or provide them

PAGE 14 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2012

Gillian Dowling from Croner, operator of the NHF’s Legal Lifeline, answers your questions with a day in lieu (if you decide to open the salon during this time and you require your employees to work).

Employers can of course decide to be generous and give the additional bank holiday as a one-off benefit even if the contract does not provide for it.

I have heard that the rates for statutory sickness, adoption, paternity and maternity pay changed in April. What are the new rates and when do they apply?

The annual change in the rate of Statutory Sick Pay (SSP) always takes place on April 6. If an employee is being paid for a period of incapacity before and after that date, they are paid so many qualifying days at the old rate (up to April 5) and so many days at the new rate (from April 6).

For 2012/13 there will be an increase in SSP to £85.85 a week and the earnings threshold will increase from £102 to £107 a week. Statutory Maternity Pay (SMP), paternity (SPP), additional paternity (ASPP) and adoption pay (SAP) are slightly different to SSP. These are weekly payments and any change in the statutory rate is geared to the first Sunday nearest to April 6. There were slight increases in SMP, SPP, ASPP and SAP for the new tax year and these took place from Sunday April 1. The new rates for 2012/13 will be £135.45.

What the Legal Lifeline offers you: • •

24/7 employment-related queries Advice on commercial matters, 9am-5pm Monday to Friday

Access to the Legal Lifeline is available by calling 01234 834389. Alternatively NHF members can log on to www.nhf.info. A full summary of cover can be found on the reverse of your legal card carrier or by logging onto to www.nhf.info/membershipbenefits/legalsupport.

The NHF operates a “fair use policy” for the lifeline.

Members exceeding 50 calls within a 12-month period may be charged £20 plus VAT per call. All calls to the Legal Lifeline are recorded and monitored by Croner. If your chosen membership category does not include employer support service or your membership is unpaid at the time of any call a charge of £20 plus VAT will apply for all such calls made.

FEDERATION FOCUS

By Stephanie Munno

New NHF Inspire manager aims to banish recession blues Colin McAndrew, owner of the Medusa Hairdressing chain in Edinburgh, has taken over as the new team manager for the NHF’s artistic team Inspire.

Colin was last year’s Scottish Colourist of the Year at the Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards, has won silver at the Wella Professional TrendVision Colour Awards and has been Scottish Hairdresser of the Year at the British Hairdressing Awards.

He has replaced Rebecca Dickenson, who stood down in February.

Colin said he was “absolutely thrilled” to be the new manager after having been a member of the team for the past two years.

A key focus of his tenure, which will see the team being mentored this year by the Trevor Sorbie Artistic Team, will be to remind salon owners of the importance of creativity, flair and passion even in a tough economic climate, he told SalonFocus.

“I think many salon owners and employees have struggled these last few years. What we intend to do is remind people of where it all began for them – being ‘creative’. We have some fantastic shows lined up; we are very keen to wow people with our work and put the fun back into the salon,” he said.

The team did a joint shoot with the new NHF Barbers’ Elite team in March, which

had both male and female models and a Studio 54 theme, and will be featured later in the year in SalonFocus.

Among other forthcoming events, Inspire is planning a shoot in September with both the Trevor Sorbie team and awardwinning stylist Johanna Cree Brown.

Barbers’ Elite manager James Beattie, owner of Beattie’s & Co in Brynmawr and Abergavenny in Wales, told SalonFocus his ambition with the new team was for them to “share their passion, flair and enthusiasm with the rest of the barbering and hairdressing industry”.

With barbering now a fast-growing market, one of the challenges the team will attempt to address for salons is how to combine creativity and “gentleman” style with masculinity, he added.

“I would love for all the stylists in the team to be involved in large shows and events throughout the UK,” James said.

The barbering team held their inaugural event in Southampton for the NHF Solent Networking Group in January.

Jane Small of 3’s Company Hair Studio in Southampton said after the event “my staff who attended enjoyed it and learnt from it”, while Anne Torrance, of Sarah Quinn in Dibden Purlieu said “my senior stylists thought it was excellent”.

Become part of Inspire and Barbers’ Elite The NHF is continually looking for talented hairdressers and barbers to join its two successful teams.

Those chosen could find themselves working on photoshoots for magazines, attending training courses at some of the best academies in Britain and showcasing their work at seminars and shows led by top hairdressers.

Auditions are being held on September 24 and will be open to all members, whether salon owner or employee, though employees must have the support of their salon and time to travel.

All entries will need to be registered at NHF head office by July 31. Application forms can be downloaded at www.nhf.info or by calling 0845 3456500/01234 831965 or emailing enquiries@nhf.info

www.nhf.info

COLIN MCANDREW: FUN

JAMES BEATTIE: PASSION

Take control of your accounts With a new financial year underway members are being reminded of the benefits of signing up to >Onlinebooks, the bespoke members-only online accounting and book-keeping package offered by the NHF. The system is operated by accountancy firm Kingston Smith and was launched at the end of last year.

Options include a “chair rentalonly” plus “starter level” packages for added flexibility.

The system costs just £10 a month plus VAT and full details can be found at: www. morethanonlinebooks.co.uk/nhf

MAY/JUNE 2012 SALONFOCUS PAGE 15

FEDERATION FOCUS

Forty years

young

Congratulations to veteran NHF member Francis John who is this year celebrating 40 years of running a successful salon, Francis John Hair Design in Swansea.

Francis opened his doors in June 1972 and since then has run five salons in and around the city centre and served more than one million clients “I’ve traded through four recessions and trained more than 500 trainees, many of whom have gone on to run their own salons,” he told SalonFocus.

“My best advice? Always be fair to your staff. My team has been incredibly loyal over the years – some of them have been with me for more than 15 years. If you treat your staff well they will treat you well,” he added.

To mark the occasion, Francis has also launched an eponymous range of products.

FRANCIS JOHN AND TEAM: MEMBER SINCE 1972

Alan Austin-Smith lined up for conference A demonstration by celebrity stylist Alan Austin-Smith will be among the highlights of members’ day at this year’s Federation’s Annual General Meeting and Conference in October.

The conference will take place at Sunday October 7 and Monday October 8 at the Hilton Cardiff.

ALAN AUSTIN-SMITH: NHF PEDIGREE

Alan has a long pedigree with the NHF, most recently holding a seminar for NHF Avon in January, where he explained to more than 160 owners and stylists how to improve business results.

See the July/August edition of SalonFocus for a full conference preview and details of how to register to attend.

Blackpool creativity and style The Blackpool International Hairdressing Championships went off in grand style in March.

The championships, which ran from March 11-12, included a civic reception hosted by Blackpool Council where NHF president Mark Coray presented Dorothea English with an engraved glass to thank her for her years spent directing the championships.

Blackpool president Cheryl Swarbrick also presented glasses and whisky to Hamish Wilson on his retirement The event comprised 23 competitions and attracted approximately 500 entries.

There were bridal themes, popular ‘Creative Fantasy’ and photographic competitions plus a junior stylists’ ‘Night at the Oscars’.

PAGE 16 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2012

Presenters over the two days were Mark Coray, Ken Sage from Goldwell, Blackpool vice-president Graham Collins, Cheryl Swarbrick and Hamish Wilson.

The judges were: Steven Jones, Stephen Coles, Ken McLure, Leanne Willis, Peter Baptist, Lee Marsh, Linda Ray, Kerry Gardiner, Bobby Mukabaa, Kevin Fox, Karen Kaya, Liz Kelly, Graham Smith, Sue Dukes, Graham Gordon, Dodi Constantino, Hamish Wilson and Graham Collins.

The ladies champion was Wendy Croall, the gent’s champion was Steve Clewlow and the first timers’ winner was Meg Walsh. A full list of winners can be found on the NHF’s website at www.nhf.info

Salon Sorted to offer advice on chemicals Watch out in July for a report into the ins and outs of working with chemicals by Sypol, provider of the NHF’s specialist health and safety tool Salon Sorted.

Consultant Maeve O’Hara will be highlighting in the July/August edition of SalonFocus the risk factors and health effects for salon owners that can accompany the use of hairsprays, hair dyes, products, shampoos and conditioners.

In particular she will outline the importance by law of completing a COSHH (Control of Substances Hazardous to Health) risk assessment for every single chemical you have in your premises and how tools such as Salon Sorted can help salons maintain compliance.

The tool is available to NHF members for £20 a year plus VAT, with full information available from www.nhf.info/ SalonSorted

INSPIRED

Resonant The latest collection from the Trevor Sorbie artistic team Hair: Trevor Sorbie Art Team Photography: Anthony Maule Styling: Tamara Rothstein Make-up: Maxine Leonard

www.nhf.info

MAY/JUNE 2012 SALONFOCUS PAGE 17

PAGE 18 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2012

INSPIRED

www.nhf.info

MAY/JUNE 2012 SALONFOCUS PAGE 19

PAGE 20 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2012

ADVICE

Put a premium

on protection In a tough economic climate where margins and income are being squeezed, reining back on insurance may feel like a relatively easy saving to make. But it can be a false economy. After all, the risks your salon faces will not have changed and, in fact, when budgets are tight, a single unexpected cost or claim for which you do not (or no longer) have cover can make a huge difference, and could even be the difference between survival or the business being forced to close.

After last summer’s riots we saw a 25 per cent increase in the number of policies being taken out by salons, suggesting some salon owners suddenly realised there was a potential gap they needed to cover. All too often, it is only when a business needs to make a claim that the owner revisits or reevaluates their insurance cover, meaning sometimes sadly it is a case of closing the stable door after the horse has bolted.

Our advice, then, is to be looking annually at the insurance you have in place and whether you are over-insured or worse, underinsured. In a nutshell, don’t automatically renew your policy, don’t get complacent about your cover and do engage with the process of getting the best value and most appropriate cover for your money.

It may feel like a drag at the time, but it really is worth it.

Heidi Morton is insurance administration manager with Coversure Insurance Services, the NHF’s recommended insurance broker.

www.nhf.info

Potential disaster

So, why is under-insurance such a potential “sleeping” disaster for a salon?

When it comes to insurance the onus is on the

Even when times are tough, salons need to resist the temptation to cut back on their insurance cover, says Heidi Morton. regularly reviewed just in case, especially if improvements are subsequently made to the site.

For salons leasing premises it can make sense to consider what we term “tenants’ improvements”, or items that you don’t own in the salon but are responsible for under the tenancy agreement. This will probably include things such as décor, plumbing, electrics, glass, signage and lighting.

SUMMER RIOTS: INSURANCE REQUESTS SHOT UP

Value of a broker person responsible for the insurance – in other words the salon or business owner – to ensure they have adequate cover in place. The danger is if there is a claim and it is subsequently decided the salon should have been covered for a higher amount, then a clause known as “average” will be applied.

This means the amount paid by the insurance company against the claim may be scaled down to reflect the level of under-insurance. So, for example, if a salon has insured its contents for £10,000 and makes a claim for a £1,000 couch but it can be proved it should have been covered for £20,000 it could only get £500 for the couch.

How can you know if the figure you are insured for is accurate or, if it was once accurate, that it is still is? You should, first, evaluate the value of your stock, in this context meaning the wholesale price value not the retail cost. Stock needs to include treatments, shampoos and colours as well as retail items.

Go around your salon and add up how much each item would cost to replace on a “new for old” basis. Don’t forget staffroom items, backwash chairs, sanitary ware, towels, gowns, furniture, tools and other equipment.

If you own your premises you need to get an accurate and realistic rebuild cost; a surveyor or estate agent will normally be able to help. This may not change too much year-to-year but it will need to be

Ultimately, if you are unsure as to whether you are correctly insured, you should contact an insurance broker.

Brokers normally work with a number of insurance providers as well as having exclusive schemes (such as, in our case, the NHF’s salon-specific Salonsure product); they could obtain better rates than going direct to an insurer or price comparison website. Moreover, while brokers do, of course, levy a commission, this is usually paid by the insurance company rather than the client.

A good broker with experience of your sector will understand the needs of your business and be able to offer practical advice. They may also be able to suggest things you might not have thought of when it comes to insurance, so ensuring you are not suddenly left exposed in the event of a claim.

If you read nothing else read this…

• Under-insurance can be a serious problem for small businesses • Don’t automatically renew and do regularly re-evaluate your cover • An insurance broker can help you get the best, and most appropriate, cover

MAY/JUNE 2012 SALONFOCUS PAGE 21

SECURITY

Safety in numbers With the vast majority of clients now paying by card, salons need to be vigilant about protecting and securing sensitive data, as any breach could cost your business dear, writes Clive Kahn.

Few customers nowadays carry cheques or settle bills with cash. There is a widespread expectation that businesses of any size will be able to take payment by credit or debit card, and in fact often surprise if this option is not available for even the smallest transaction.

However, while most salons do now accept cards, our research has found many salon owners remain unaware of their obligations when it comes to protecting their customers’ data plus, of course, the dangers that come with failing to do so.

Secure storage

The Payment Card Industry Data Security Standard (PCI DSS, or PCI for short) may not exactly roll off the tongue but it is an absolutely vital set of guidelines designed to ensure a customer’s sensitive payment information is handled and stored safely and securely.

It is enforced by card payment providers and it applies to any business, no matter how small, that accepts card payments. It outlines standard security measures businesses should be taking, such as avoiding storing copies of customers’ card details and securing payment devices such as chip and pin machines.

The cost of non-compliance can be serious. Besides the fines and penalties imposed by card brands for non-compliance, the consequences of a breach of data are potentially grave.

Customers’ secure data can be stolen by hacking into compromised card readers, stealing paper records, or by breaking into a salon’s wireless network.

Any security breach will have a negative impact on a salon and its customers, and could lead to damaged business relationships, Clive Kahn is chief loss of reputation and executive of card customer confidence, payment specialist and ultimately a drop Cardsave in sales.

PAGE 22 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2012

On top of this the threat of potential legal action, insurance claims, cancelled accounts and payment card issuer fines makes PCI compliance an important business consideration. As such, salon owners should be ensuring they are PCI compliant as soon as possible.

understand the needs of smaller businesses and be able to help you get on the road to PCI compliance by explaining the steps required, providing support with administration and normally setting up the certification appointment. The best will work with you to keep the cost of compliance to a minimum.

Compliance

This all may at first glance appear daunting and a time-consuming distraction from the “day job”. In fact, with only a little effort and education, it should become second nature. Moreover, the costs involved in becoming compliant are small compared with the difficulties experienced following a breach of data.

In practical terms the main things to be aware of are: • Don’t write down details of customers’ credit or debit card details on paper, or store them on computers. If written details are held, they should be stored in a locked safe; • Only use approved chip and pin devices; • Train your staff in PCI awareness; • Regularly check your chip and pin appliances for “skimming” devices; • Make sure your internet connection is secure (in other words your router is password protected and you have a firewall in place).

For many small salons, the easiest way to demonstrate PCI compliance is through a self-assessment questionnaire, which you can get from your card service provider. This contains a checklist of yes or no questions about a salon’s current status and, once completed, is sent along with supporting documents back to the provider.

An alternative route involves certification through an independent quality security assessor, who needs to be qualified to audit businesses for PCI compliance.

The first step to finding out about your specific PCI compliance requirements is to contact your card service provider.

Most good providers should

How your software can help Your salon management software is going to be a vital element in storing and securing client data, so make sure it is not a weak link, says Dr Janet Bastiman, director of development at Integrity Software.

The first thing to emphasise is using a software system to store client data does not in itself provide the protection you need to become PCI or Data Protection Act compliant.

All your clients’ personal data, including contact details and payment information, is covered by legislation and so you need to protect it by making sure you only store what is necessary, and that your security settings are properly maintained.

Your merchant card processing terminal will not normally be directly connected to your salon management software so, unless you are completely happy you are PCI compliant, we suggest you do not take or store card payment details for any reason within your salon’s computer system.

You also need to ensure contact information and other details, such as history, notes and preferences are kept safe. To this end, everyone who has access to your salon management software should have their own unique login (and not “password”), and PCs should be locked when not attended. Don’t forget, any back-up needs to be kept safe and secure, too.

If in doubt, contact your software provider for help and guidance.

ADVICE

Prom promise School “Proms” may have been imported from America, but they are now big business for many salons, and the keys are planning, preparation and product, argues Steven Goldsworthy.

Originally mostly an American phenomenon, the summer school “Prom” is now very much a highlight of the UK academic year.

As such, for hairdressers it is a market that has grown significantly, with both the male and female clients demanding more and more each year – in fact we even find clients are spending as much on these events as they do on wedding outfits and hair!

Our trainees and graduates compete regularly in dressed hair competitions, and therefore are very proficient with long hair, so Prom hair is something we are able to offer effectively within the salon.

We have a special rate of £25 for Prom hair styled by these graduates, with the added bonus that, as they will be nearer the age of the client, they are more in touch with what’s required.

Celebrity trends

Styles and fashions change each year and will often be dictated by celebrity culture. Last year, for example, we saw a lot of side chignons and hair extensions whereas this year – in part because of the popularity of TV shows such as The Only Way is Essex – we are seeing a return to big-glamour hair.

We don’t offer beauty in the salon but Prom-goers do, we find, often spend a fortune on nails, spray tans, eyelashes and teeth whitening, so this year we have employed a teeth-whitening technician and are offering make-up.

The most important thing when creating Prom hair is the holding power. There is no point in creating a fabulous do in the afternoon that doesn’t make it to the evening, so

PAGE 24 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNEL 2012

preparation and product is key.

If the client is having their hair dressed up we recommend they shampoo it the day before, as the hair will be too clean and slippy to stay up otherwise.

We are also seeing an increase in ornamentation, so we do advise the client ensures there is a secure way of attaching the headdress/ornament. Extensions are another growth area when it comes to Proms and we have an extensive selection of temporary fixes and extensions to suit most pockets, although this year length and volume is king.

We would recommend the client has this done at least a week prior to their Prom and, as the cost of our extensions includes a blow-dry, they can come on their Prom day and get their big-volume blow-dry done.

Word-of-mouth

We do not do a great deal of specific marketing in this area, although we do have a window poster highlighting it as a service. Mostly we rely on our reputation and client recommendation, and this alone has led to year-on-year growth in this department.

It’s worth being aware the whole Prom experience can involve not just the client but also their entourage of friends and family, and sometimes even photographers and videographers.

Naturally, we try to accommodate everyone into the experience because if you can impress they may become a regular client in the future, if they are not already one. We obviously do not serve alcohol but we do offer an extensive complimentary refreshment menu.

The fact many schools will be working to the same termtime calendar means we can sometimes find ourselves coping with more than two schools holding Proms on the same day.

This can be a bit of nightmare on occasion, and does require forward planning, although

Steven Goldsworthy is artistic director of Goldsworthy’s hairdressing in Swindon and Cirencester. He has won British Hairdresser of the Year, Wales and South West, three times is a member of the British Hairdressing Hall of Fame.

generally in our area the Proms do seem to be held on weekdays, which makes them much easier to accommodate.

Finally, we have seen a major growth in the male Prom market – so this is something not to overlook.

What exactly is driving this is hard to gauge but it may be down to the fact we have a lot of young male hairdressers who tend to attract a similar clientele. Equally it may be that, increasingly, boys today like to be as pampered as female clients!

Things to consider Prom hair is a growing market, and extensions are a key revenue stream within it, advises Michelle Preston of Images for Hair Extensions • Holding power is important, so focus on preparation and product • There is increased demand for glamour, ornamentation and extensions • Consider adding beauty services into the mix

Artistic Auditions Call for talented and creative hairdressers and barbers • • • •

Are you ambitious?

Trend setting?

Motivated?

Proud of your talent?

For more details on NHF Inspire and Barbers Elite see page 15

Call For Nominations For Honorary Treasurer 2012/2013 Full details enclosed with this issue of SalonFocus

ADVICE

Become

public spirited

Throwing yourself into your community and supporting local events and charities makes good business sense as well as being just a great thing to do, advises Michael Mehmet.

When I started Tikadi back in 2007 I always said once it was successful I would want to give something back. That’s the prime reason why I get involved in my community, but it is also the case there is a business benefit to going out and making a local name for yourself, both in terms of raising your profile and your credibility.

We do so many things. We run “pamper” evenings and do events at local schools, we do charity events and we have two stylists who regularly go into the local hospice and care for the residents. We really just do whatever we can and we’ve organised events and local activities pretty much ever since we opened.

One of our first – in 2008 – was a sponsored swap in which we allowed valued (and trusted!) clients to become our hairdressers for a day. It was absolutely hilarious but really worthwhile. We had two clients who had just been diagnosed with breast cancer and so were able to raise £7,000 for Breakthrough Breast Cancer. We’re planning to repeat this in October, and I hope it will be as successful again.

Summer ball

Michael Mehmet is owner, with Sharon Hennessey, of Tikadi, operating two salons, in Theydon Bois and Ongar in Essex. In November last year the Ongar salon won the Excellent Customer Service category at the inaugural Mid Essex Business Awards.

Perhaps our biggest charity fund-raiser, however, was the “Summer Ball” – essentially a charity catwalk show – we held in June 2010 for Great Ormond Street Hospital’s HAIRraising campaign, which raised £12,000. Great Ormond Street is something very close to my heart as I found myself in the unfortunate position of having one of my children referred there but not being able to be taken in because there was too much demand on beds. Something like that you don’t forget.

There were other events too that year that took our breath away. The team donated £1 from every haircut during the month of August and five clients got together and parachuted out of a plane, in the process raising an additional £2,000, so bringing the total to £14,000.

Of course, we’re not the only salon to run events such as these; many salons do a huge amount of good work. But, for me, it’s not just the fact these are worthy activities, the business benefits that come with community and charitable involvement count too.

PAGE 26 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2012

SKY-DIVING: MONEY-RAISER

TIKADI: LOCAL REPUTATION

ADVICE

SUMMER BALL: CREATED A BUZZ

With the ball, for all our staff it was a day they would never forget; it was a huge morale boost. They went home with a real sense of achievement. It was incredible the commitment some people showed – we had one staff member who spent three nights making cupcakes and raised £2,000 just from that. It can boost self-esteem and confidence, especially if people are given an element to organise. It just helps to create a buzz.

Celebrity support

Not only that, but it has directly led to the team getting some star-studded support. In January last year the whole team got to spend an evening with John Freida, Lee Stafford, and Tony Rizzo, among others, as a reward for their fund-raising activities.

Then in February last year, Andrew Collinge held a special training day, again because of our work for HAIRraising. Both these events, of course, have been really inspiring for the team.

Over the years we’ve had a huge amount of local media coverage as a result. We have a reputation for being a high-

calibre salon anyway but the fact we have done things such as the fashion show and been in the local paper and magazines has brought us more out in the open.

We are known within the local community as a business that will help in any way it can, and that has definitely had a positive knock-on effect. Each year since we opened I’d say we’ve grown by 20-35 per cent. Even last year, when the economy was difficult, we grew by 27 per cent.

Obviously not all of that can be attributed to our reputation in the community but, to me, the fact we have a positive presence and there is a buzz about us locally has made a difference. No other salon around us does the sort of things we do, so it is a way of showing we are different and that we can offer something special, as well as, of course, just being a great thing to do.

More details about Great Ormond Street and John Freida’s HAIRraising campaign can be found at: http://www.gosh.org/ gen/hair-raising/about-hairraising/

Your NHF ‘community’ needs you too…

You don’t have to get involved in the NHF to reap its benefits, but taking an active interest in your region can bring extra networking and professional advantages, argues Cheryl Swarbrick.

I began running my salon in the 1980s and joined the NHF around the same time but, initially, like many I imagine, I wasn’t an active member. I only became involved around six or seven years ago.

One factor behind this change was that my children had grown up by then so I had a bit more time available. Most people I find get involved a little at a time – and there are a lot of different jobs you can do.

It is, of course, extra work, and sometimes it does mean you have to sit down in the evening with paperwork, but most of the time I manage to fit it in around my day in the salon.

There are not too many meetings – probably about one a month, normally the first Monday of each month – although in the run-up to our Blackpool show it does, of course, get

www.nhf.info

pretty busy. I have also attended the occasional NEC meeting in London.

There are so many ways to get involved: artistically and in competitions and shows, in hairdressing politics, the Federation’s finances, education, membership and so on, and some roles inevitably are going to be bigger than others.

I think it is important we work to attract more new people to the Federation. For me personally it’s made a big difference.

You get to meet some lovely, inspiring people and being known within the NHF has been really useful both for my business and becoming better known locally. You get to know so much more about what is going on, both in your area and within the industry more widely.

Cheryl Swarbrick is owner of Charlie Girl in Blackpool and president of the Blackpool branch of the NHF. The Blackpool International Hairdressing Championships ran from March 11-12.

MAY/JUNE 2012 SALONFOCUS PAGE 27

COLUMN

Popsicles and finger painting This year will all be about subtle colours and, er, finger painting. Daniel Galvin explains more.

I can barely believe it’s already May, this year is going so fast! After, frankly, a difficult year last year dominated for me by the untimely death of my brother Joshua, it was a huge honour in December to be awarded the Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s Lifetime Achievement Award.

I was completely thrilled and proud, as I have such a lot of respect for the work of the fellowship. The fact, too, that Joshua had for many years been a member of its committee simply served to make the award even more poignant.

January may normally be a quieter time for salons but not for us this year! In large part this was because of our George Street salon holding its first ever annual awards, which certainly brightened up what can sometimes be a bit of a grey month.

London calling

With a career spanning 50 years, hair colourist Daniel Galvin is one of most recognised names in the industry. A protégé of Vidal Sassoon and Leonard Lewis, he was the first UK colourist to launch a signature line of professional hair colourants, expanding into Japan and the Far East in the 1990s. He was made an OBE in 2006 and continues to be passionate about colour and the industry.

It was an inspirational and very enjoyable day and, for me, the highlight was being able to present a new award – the Joshua Galvin Award – which we have created to recognise someone who shows particular positivity and passion for our industry. Well done to our stylist Saskiia Marsh who won this inaugural award. She is a very gifted member of the colour team and I know has a great future ahead of her.

It was also fantastic to welcome my son James back to London. James has been working hard in Los Angeles to establish the Galvin Benjamin salon in West Hollywood, with partner Benjamin Mohapi, but now that’s successfully up and running has based himself back here.

I’m extremely pleased, too, that James and my daughter Louise, who is our colour director, will once again between them be leading the hairdressing team on this year’s series of Britain and Ireland’s Next Top Model.

The programme, which is due to be broadcast on Sky Living during the summer, will again be presented by Elle Macpherson and will feature Julien Macdonald, Whitney Port and Tyler Beckford on the judging panel and will include us being involved in some fabulous makeovers.

PAGE 28 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2012

POPSICLE LOOK: INCORPORATING COLOURFUL STRANDS

Natural looks

When it comes to styles and trends I see hair colour moving down two paths from this spring.

First, we’re going to be seeing a lot of “SUPER-natural” looks, in other words shunning brassy colours and focusing on natural movement and effortless beauty.

Second, the other key trend will be what I call “Popsicle colour”. This is an effect created using our Flowstrands, part of our Great Length hair extensions range, which we launched in February.

These incorporate a few colourful strands into the extension, which can be added to your hair to create a subtle new flavour to your hair colour.

Finally, as part of celebrating 35 years on George Street – years that, incidentally, have passed in a flash – I’ve launched a new colouring technique called Daniel Galvin Finger Painting, and which I believe will become a style staple as we move into spring and summer looks.

How it works is that, using a specially prepared formula, I lift the colour that already lies within the natural pigment of the hair to produce a hue a few shades lighter than the original.

What this does is deliver a soft, uncontrived effect. Similarly, the finger weaving produces a gentle, more unaffected appearance, so avoiding harsh, angular foil lines.

One of the best things about this new procedure to my mind is that it fits totally with my wider colouring ethos and philosophy, which is simply to enhance the client’s natural beauty.

This is such an ideal method for me – by using my hands I’m really getting in touch with my “canvas” and forcing to the surface an individual’s inner natural beauty. It’s going to be exciting to see how it develops.

BACK TO BASICS

Are you sitting comfortably?

Backwash chairs are the unsung heroes of all good salons and anyone with ambitions one day to run their own business needs to know what to look for.

SalonFocus investigates.

Let’s be honest, for most stylists the backwash chairs in your salon are unlikely to be something you give a lot of thought to. Unless or until they go wrong or unless the salon’s going through a major refit, the backwash chair, if it’s doing its job properly, should not be the centre of attention.

Nevertheless, if you want to get to understand your salon inside out, and indeed if you have ambitions one day to run your own salon, understanding the mechanics and functionality of this central piece of salon kit is vital.

“The client experience is paramount, of course, but your available space, the shampoo/backwash system you are pairing the chair with (as chairs may not be compatible with all backwash units/ basins) and the types of backwash services you are offering will influence your choice,” explains André Dupratt, national sales manager at Takara Belmont.

Go for comfort

Comfort is important as clients are spending more time with treatments, which require them to be at the wash unit for longer, points out Andy Colbourne, national furniture manager at Aston & Fincher.

“A standard backwash may be adequate for a three-minute shampoo but today many salon owners are looking to the backwash to provide services that enhance a client’s visit and will also generate extra income. If you’re serious about offering relaxing treatments with your expensive product range you need to upgrade to a comfortable massage backwash,” he says.

“Leg-rests are now very popular and taking it one step further, if funds are available, electric leg-rests can be builtin for luxury. Technology has certainly come a long way since the old pedestal backwashes which had separate chairs

PAGE 30 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2012

pushed up against them,” agrees Tom Fowler, of Salon Hair Supplies.

“All the latest wash units are low maintenance and only need a visual check every so often. We always advise a good registered plumber to carry out new installations,” he adds.

“Customers can be required to sit in styling chairs for a considerable length of time, so comfort is essential,” reiterates Kirstie Hillier, category manager, equipment at SBH UK & Ireland, owner of Sally Salon Services. “If it is a cold salon, avoid metal arms, go for leather or fabric. Shapes are changing and trends are leaning more towards cube chairs with material arms; these offer great comfort and look great in any modern salon,” she adds.

You need to gauge how the client, the chair, the basin and the water will all marry together, advises Albert Ewan, of Albert Ewan Design.

“Physiologically the client should not have any pressure to any part of the body, not least of all the neck area. The ultimate will take the client from a seated upright position fully supported, to a fully or partially reclined position, encouraging relaxation,” he says.

“The backwash area or in some salons a dedicated ‘hair spa’ is where added service can be applied. The décor is an important consideration if it is to back-up what your basins are saying. It needs to be restful yet inviting. Bathing clients, for example, in the right colour light will open clients to new ideas and make them more receptive to maintaining the whole experience at the retail display,” he adds.

Just as importantly, health and safety needs to be closely considered, with basins needing to be set at a maximum of 43 degrees to eliminate any chance of scalding from an inexperienced junior.

Mig article ht this within be useful y Pass it our salon? share round and it with stylists your !

Chairs will get heavy usage and common problems can include faulty hydraulics leaking over the floor (inevitably on a busy Saturday morning) or simply chairs stopping reclining or breaking after a few months, argues Peter Parry, managing director of WBX Europe.

Maintenance and repair

Therefore regular checks and maintenance are essential. Look for at least a two-year manufacturer guarantee and ask for a “try before you buy” option.

An after-sale repair service is also a “must”.

It may sound obvious but, before buying a chair, sit in it!

Some backwash chairs use metal plates to release and lock the back recline and it is important to test this to see how smooth it is and whether it has an “antishock” mechanism built in.

“You have enough to worry about in the salon without having additional worries of a bad back recline mechanism being blamed for a client’s sudden bad back injury,” points out Peter.

Finally, a hydraulic backwash chair on a disc base will be heavier than one with a gas cylinder, which is worth bearing in mind if the chair is going to need to be moved around at all, he adds.

If you read nothing else read this…

• Look at the space you have, systems it will be paired with and other services you may offer around it • Focus on comfort, versatility, smoothness of operation, functionality and robustness • Make sure you try before you buy, and have a repairs contract

EVENTS NHF EVENTS OTHERS Please send your events to the NHF at enquiries@ nhf.info by May 2 for July/August, July 2 for September/October and September 3 for November/ December. Updated events listed on www.nhf.info

7/8 14

MAY Central England Region and Networking Group Hairdresser of the Year Awards, Holte Suite, Aston Villa, Birmingham Contact Colin Gardner on 0121 378 0900

14

MAY Yorkshire Region Look and Learn Evening, with NHF Inspire, Holiday Inn, Brighouse Contact Paul Curry on 01904 792039

20

MAY Welsh Open Championships Cardiff Bay Coal Exchange, Cardiff Contact Carl Hinder on 07931518642 or james@ nhfwales.co.uk

OCT Annual General Meeting and Conference Hilton Cardiff, Kingsway Contact NHF head office on 0845 345 6500

12

NOV Cheshire Championships Romiley Forum Theatre, Stockport Contact Michael Burgum on 0161 220 7375

18

NOV Britain’s Best Competition Hilton Metropole Hotel, Birmingham Contact NHF head office on 01234 831965 or 0845 3456500

17

JUNE South West Area Championships, Winter Gardens, Weston Super Mare Contact Pat or Doug Cording on 01386 561704

www.nhf.info

MAY/JUNE 2012 SALONFOCUS PAGE 33

BACKWASH

Now for the science bit There are, Backwash imagines, undoubtedly many things that keep the average hairdresser awake at night, most of them probably unprintable.

But should you ever have tossed and turned into the small hours worrying about the scientific distribution of hairs within a ponytail, fret no more, for a British team of researchers can now set your mind at rest!

OK, Backwash appreciates this might be something of a minority concern, but according to the boffins from Cambridge University who discovered it the new mathematical formula – inevitably being dubbed “The Rapunzel number” – could help scientists understand natural materials such as wool and fur much better as well as assist animators in making hair look more natural on cartoons.

As Professor Raymond Goldstein, Schlumberger Professor of Complex Physical Systems (and, yes, that really is his title) explained in the journal Physical Review Letters the “combined effects of bending elasticity, gravity, and orientational disorder are recast as a differential equation for the envelope of the bundle, in which the compressibility enters through an ‘equation of state’.”

No, we don’t get it either. More’s the point, if they really wanted to impress perhaps they could next explain the phenomenon behind the male ponytail? Now that’d be a proper challenge.

Press one for copper thieves…

In these days of 24/7 “always on” connectivity it is all too easy to forget just how fragile sometimes are the ties that bind us.

So top marks to aesthetic nonsurgical beauty treatments firm Collagenics for coming up with one of the most inventive excuses Backwash has ever heard for not picking up the phone.

After a number of days faced with a persistent engaged tone, Backwash was forced to resort to sending an email via the company’s website, which came back with the following

PAGE 34 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2012

response: “Sorry, but we have a technical problem in the fact that the copper cable that supplies the phone lines around here has been stolen and as yet we have been unable to divert the line to a mobile.”

Soaring metal prices do mean such thefts are becoming a growing menace around the country, so Backwash has its sympathies. Yet surely the copper thieves are missing a trick here? After all, if they instead targeted cold-calling and telephone research firms they’d probably rapidly become latter-day Robin Hoods.

A Kushy number?

Bedford HQ – as has been highlighted in news – was the scene of an intense media skills training day in February.

President Mark Coray, vice-president Paul Curry, trainer and NEC member Nikki Boone and Barbers’ Elite director James Beattie all gamely put themselves in the spotlight – literally – being grilled and tested under lights and camera by former BBC journalist Christopher Slade and SalonFocus’ very own Nic Paton.

One of the exercises was to come prepared to present a one-minute speech that, crucially, had to be on a subject that was not work-related.

In the process our trainees revealed sides of themselves that maybe are less wellknown to their NHF colleagues.

For Paul, it was his love of horseracing, for Mark it was his fascination with neurology, for Nikki it was how she met her husband.

But it was James who most took the grizzled hacks by surprise by revealing his passion for the Russian surrealist artist Vladimir Kush who, with his signature flowing water and butterfly motifs feeds into and inspires his own work, James explained.

As yet, James has only been able to afford one print by the artist, unsurprisingly considering his work commonly goes at auction for four-figure sums. But, as one to watch within the Federation, Backwash predicts give it time… give it time.

If you have stories for Backwash, send them to the editor at head office or e-mail to sfeditor@salonfocus.co.uk putting Editor Backwash in the subject line.