The ESSENTIAL magAZINE for Salon Owners
NOV/DEC 2009 | ÂŁ3.50
Harry Walker Serious talk Flat-rate VAT Are you in the know?
On top of the job Managing maintenance
NMW crackdown Under the microscope How to make money from ethnic hair
The ESSENTIAL magAZINE for Salon Owners
NOV/DEC 2009 | ÂŁ3.50
Harry Walker Serious talk Flat-rate VAT Are you in the know?
Join F H ThereN ceive
to cus and o SalonF ore. it m h c u so me for details or vis id See ins hf.info www.n
On top of the job Managing maintenance
NMW crackdown Under the microscope How to make money from ethnic hair
distance relation between sash and corner flexible. size relation between sash and corner NOT flexible.
CLOSED
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Wavelength
Stirring green shoots
with spring rain
This is it; the end of 2009, an historic year in which we As editor, I give you my pledge to ensure that all the suffered the worst recession since the Second World War. news, views and advice you need will be found within But do not think for a minute we are out of the the pages of this magazine. woods yet. And the NHF’s head office staff are just a telephone However, while some people think I am a “the-endcall or e-mail away to answer your queries and the is-nigh” person I actually make much effort in my life forthcoming new website will be a mine of information. to be a “glass-half-full” man and I believe strongly that Should you feel there are any important topics you attitude, motivation, commitment, think we have not covered, drop me “ A positive mental a line. dedication and positivity make all the difference. Martin Leach, from Arena Hair, attitude gives I am no economist – I still need in Nottingham, did just that. His call you the strength formed the basis of our article on the an abacus to count to 10 – but it is interesting to note how negativity beflat rate VAT scheme on page 08. and motivation gats negativity and likewise positivity Remember the old BT ad line, It’s to go on…to begats positivity. good to talk? Call me, write to me, come up with The more assertive and positive we e-mail me. I want to know you and are in our day-to-day lives the better your business. solutions to equipped we are to survive We’ve got a great line-up of new enable your the bad times in both our writers for you in the new year, business to personal and business lives. including Regis International manNow that is all fine and aging director Jackie Lang, long hair thrive, such dandy but when you go to guru Michael Barnes, Harringtons as addressing the bank, ask for a loan or founder Simon Shaw and a new staffing issues, for overdraft facilities to column from Beverly C MBE. be extended and “the I also look forward to continuing to supplier costs, bank that likes to say receive your creative work on CD. If lease terms, yes” – or indeed any they do not appear in the magazine, other institution – says it is no judgement about the quality pricing, menu no, however positive but a space issue. But I love seeing range, opening and energised you are seemingly does them. They enable me to understand hours, service.” not make a jot of difference. more about who you are and what Or does it? A positive mental atyou and your business are all about. titude gives you the strength and motivation to go on, Where space allows, I will include what I can and keep to ask the next bank and the next bank, or come up them on file for possible future use to accompany apwith other solutions that do not involve banks to enpropriate features and news articles. able your business to thrive, such as addressing staffIt has been a privilege to edit this magazine over the ing issues, supplier costs, lease terms, pricing, menu past two years. range, opening hours, service….all subjects we have Merry Christmas and happy new year to you all. covered in SalonFocus over the past couple of years. At the time of writing Mervyn King, Bank of England governor, warned many would continue to feel the effects of the recession “for some while” as he doused hopes of a swift rebound in the economy. But none of us can be sure what is in store in the year ahead, good or bad, or the many shades of grey in between. Andrew Don Editor The NHF and SalonFocus will continue to give members the support which has been invaluable for many during these turbulent times.
www.nhf.info
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009 SALONFOCUS PAGE 3
contents
News
Features
05 NMW apprentices crackdown 06 Harry Walker Live from the AGM and Conference 08 Flat-rate VAT– the facts CuttheVAT– the word spreads 09 Swine flu practical pointers 10 Live TV prosecution risk 12 Salons underestimate boiler failure impact 13 NHF members fly high 14 Latest stats on salon products
p 17
22 Salon maintenance – on top of the job 24-25 Success is staff development 27 Profit builder – preparing for Xmas 28-29 Ethnic hair special feature
Inspired p 25
SALONFOCUS IS PUBLISHED BY: National Hairdressers’ Federation, One Abbey Court, Fraser Road, Priory Business Park, Bedford MK44 3WH t: 0845 345 6500 t: 01234 831965 f: 01234 838875 e: sfenquiries@salonfocus.co.uk w: www.nhf.info PUBLISHER Eileen Lawson BSc FCIS FRSA e: eileen.lawson@nhf.info EDITOR Andrew Don e: sfeditor@salonfocus.co.uk EVENTS Tina Beaumont t: 0845 345 6500 e: tina.beaumont@nhf.info
p 29
18-21
Big on Barbarella
Beauty
Regulars
12 31
While every care is taken in compiling this issue of SalonFocus including manuscripts and photographs submitted, we accept no responsibility for any losses or damage, whatever the cause. All information and prices contained in advertisements are accepted by the publishers in good faith as being correct at the time of going to press. Neither the advertisers nor the publishers accept any responsibility for any variations affecting price variations or availability after the publication has gone to press. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the permission of the publisher, to whom application must first be made. The views expressed by contributors to SalonFocus are not necessarily those of the NHF, the publisher or its editor. © 2009 The National Hairdressers’ Federation.
Beauty spots Leave them begging for more
03 Wavelength – reflection on the big R 13 Movers & Groovers – what you’re all up to 15 Cutting brief from your legal agony aunt 16-17 Federation Focus– news from Team GB, Inspire, areas & branches and conference 30 Green Fields – getting to grips with the eco - jungle 33 Events – the hairdressing calendar 34 Backwash– off the beaten track
Material for consideration in this section of the magazine should be submitted on CD-ROM as high resolution jpeg or tiff files to The Editor, SalonFocus. Submissions should be made on the understanding that the National Hairdressers’ Federation has the right to use the material in any part of the magazine and any of its other publications, promotions or website, free from any copyright restrictions, or appearance fees other than the issue of artistic and photographic credits where applicable. Please include salon name, photographer & stylist.
ront Cover: Hair: NHF Inspire Creative Direction: F Charlie Taylor, Art direction: Wendy Cummins, Photography: Simon Powell, Make up: Aisling Aire
Our coNTRIBUTORS AD SALES Mainline Media Ltd The Barn, Oakley Hay Lodge Business Park, Great Oakley, Northants NN18 9AS t: +44 (0) 1536 747333 f: +44 (0) 1536 746565 w: www.mainlinemedia.co.uk Advertising Sales Manager Tricia McDougall e: tricia.mcdougall@mainlinemedia. co.uk Advertising Production Manager Craig Barber e. craig.barber@mainlinemedia.co.uk
Gillian Dowling works for Croner as employment technical consultant.
DESIGN & PRODUCTION The Hardy Group t: 020 7709 0303 e: studio@thehardygroup.co.uk
PAGE 4 SALONFOCUS NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009
Geoffrey Wolfarth is a solicitor specialising in commercial property at Adams & Remers.
Gary Harlock is a director at Perspective, an authority in apprenticeship training and onand off-site learning.
Nigel Sillis is former director of Vidal Sassoon UK salons and schools and is a trustee of the Fellowship of British Hairdressing and a member of the council.
Simon RussellRoberts is Toni & Guy’s franchisee in Gloucester Road, southwest London.
Daniel Field is a salon owner and the pioneer of Organic and Mineral Hairdressing.
Angela Bartlett is chairman of the British Association of Beauty Therapy & Cosmetology and the Confederation of International Beauty Therapy & Cosmetology.
News
for today’s Salon owner
NMW officers clamp down on
non-genuine apprentices Salons are at risk of falling foul of National Minimum Wage (NMW) compliance officers if their apprentices are deemed not to be genuine, the NHF’s Legal Lifeline has warned. Gillian Dowling, employment technical consultant at Croner, which operates the service, said compliance officers had been inspecting hairdressing salons to check employers were paying the NMW. They had been checking payroll records and had interviewed both employers and staff. “One of their checks is to ensure apprentices are genuinely undergoing training. The officers will insist the NMW should be paid if they deem this is not the case,” Dowling said. They could issue a notice of underpayment and employers would have to make up the relevant amount of back pay. Employers might also have to pay up to a £5,000 fine. Only under-19-year-old apprentices are exempt from the NMW. Older apprentices are only exempt during the first year of the apprenticeship. Dowling said: “Employers must make sure apprentices follow a recognised training scheme and attend college for an S/NVQ Level 2 or 3 qualification. “Without a recognised course, it is difficult for an employer to show the training is exempt from the National Minimum Wage because basic ‘on the job’ training, or ‘sitting by Nellie’ as it is sometimes called, may not be enough to qualify for the exemption.”
www.nhf.info
There was also a risk apprentices should be paid the NMW if they completed their training, such as NVQ Level 2, before the apprenticeship ended and were just working in the salon taking clients. Officers would argue that the formal training had ended and the apprentice was now a worker who should be paid the NMW, she said. Meanwhile, Scottish Anne Goddard: Michael Connarty MP: members were bitterly disap- ‘He didn’t listen’ ‘Different views’ pointed after Ian Davidson, Glasgow South West MP, was forced Hamish Wilson, who stepped down to pull out of a meeting with them at from the NHF’s National Executive the end of August to discuss problems Committee at this year’s Annual General administering the NMW because of the Meeting, said: “We were disappointed complexity of the regulations, especially at his lack of knowledge regarding those affecting apprentices (SalonFocus wage structure and the NMW and apprenticeships…. He didn’t appreciSept/Oct 2009). ate the problems we had. Nothing was Davidson had promised to meet the resolved. He went away more informed Scottish delegation after NHF secretary than we did.” general Eileen Lawson appeared Connarty said there seemed to be before the Scottish Affairs Select different views as to what the problems Committee this summer when she told of the industry were. “Clearly [there MPS that micro businesses had to deal were] different levels of knowledge of with the same complexity of rules and how people should be proceeding with regulations as multinationals. training of staff, maintaining proper Michael Connarty, Labour MP for control or even records. Linlithgow and Falkirk East, stood in for “There are some things I got out of Davidson but members present were it which were the issues of grievance sorely disappointed with his grasp of from the industry side and a debate the issues. about the lack of accountability and Ann Goddard, West of Scotland what some people said was an unfair Area chairman, said: “He didn’t listen playing field generated by people who to any of the members…All he wanted weren’t in any way compliant,” he said. to talk about was the hospitality sector and the pooling system of tips. The meeting was telling him tips went straight to staff and not to a pool. He couldn’t grasp this.”
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009 SALONFOCUS PAGE 5
News
A serious player for
Serious times
PHOTO: www.paul-baker-photography.co.uk
The NHF is a serious player for serious times with serious things to do for, and on behalf of, its members. This was the theme of president Harry Walker’s speech at the Annual General Meeting and Conference on October 4-5, in Leeds. Walker frequently reminded hairdressers in his 20 minute address that they should be proud of their profession. Walker said for too long had the industry been self-disparaging. “Let us be proud to be hairdressers. Let us believe in ourselves. If we believe in our selves others will believe in us. Only with self-confidence and belief in the worthiness of what we do will those in the corridors of power have faith in us, listen to us, and bring about the changes we need.” The NHF had proved in the past year it “not only talks the talk but fights the fight”, campaigning on behalf of its members in a variety of areas including VAT and the national miniHarry Walker presents mum wage. Sean Dawson with his NHF He said the NHF Celebrity Hairdresser of the and its members had Year Award 2009 earned “kudos” among politicians and people of influence with the dignified and intelligent way in which it had conducted its affairs. He described how Eileen Lawson, secretary general, had helped elevate the sector’s standing in government circles and the wider business community. “She has helped put substance to my vision I presented her with two years ago when I met her for the first time,” he said. The president said individual salons could not hide behind the excuse that they were a micro organisation. “Everyone has a responsibility to ensure they do what the law requires of them. Everyone in membership has ready access to the advice they need by contacting NHF head office or using the Legal Lifeline so there really is no excuse.
PAGE 6 SALONFOCUS NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009
“If the sector wants to make a significant contribution to formulating national policy, it must accept that it has not only to be honourable and creditable in all its dealings but that it is seen to be so.” He said the sector had to build an “unbesmirchable reputation” if it was to attract the best into the profession. “In the post MPs-expenses world we have to hold our heads up high in terms of our professionalism and our ethics in business.” Walker touched on training issues on the new Diploma, emphasising the responsibility to provide clients with the best hairdressers possible. “We attract the best by reinforcing the message in schools, colleges and business at large that hairdressing provides a fantastic career.” He talked about success in the competition arena, how former mentor Charlie Taylor had helped team art director Wendy Cummins give NHF Inspire new direction and how fantastic it was that hob’s Akin Konizi and Sean Dawson were now mentoring the team. Walker called on everyone to pull together. “We have to be united and not squabble among ourselves. From the single-salon member to the branches, to the areas and to the NEC, we must be a cohesive force, co-operative in our goals.” • Hamish Wilson MBE stepped down from the National Executive Council at the AGM. He also relinquishes the chairmanship of the NHF artistic committee and British director of competitions after 47 years in the NHF. He was president from 1989-1992, a past chairman of West of Scotland Area, and manager of the NHF ladies international squad. Matthew Bridger also stepped down from the NEC after completing his term. Sean Dawson, one of the mentors to the NHF Inspire art team, was named NHF Celebrity Hairdresser of the Year 2009.
TtG ‘missed opportunity’, says Habia A change in criteria for the Train to Gain (TtG) flagship government training scheme at the beginning of the year could have benefited the hairdressing sector if the quango managing it had not run out of money to fund the changes, Habia has disclosed. TtG was launched three years ago to help firms of all sizes improve employee skills in an attempt to boost their own business performance. Its aim was to bring employees up to an NVQ Level 2 standard. The initial criteria for eligibility, however, meant it had little benefit to the hairdressing industry and it was hardly used by the sector. Habia said new flexibility that came in at the beginning of the year would have been of far more use to the hairdressing industry than the old criteria had the Learning and Skills Council’s coffers not run dry. The new criteria sought to raise the skills level to an NVQ Level 3 standard, funding for extra Level 3 qualifications, such as in beauty, for those who already had a Hairdressing Level 3, and full funding for 19-25 year olds working towards a Level 3. Habia has since warned learning providers that it will not accept evidence of Apprenticeship completions from the TtG programme. Alan Goldsbro, chief executive, of the government-appointed standards setting body for the hair, beauty, nails and spa sectors, said: “We did keep an open mind on this, and consulted… via our Industry Forum…the response from them, overwhelmingly, was the TtG should not be recognised as an Apprenticeship because the structured programme of on and off-the-job learning was bypassed.”
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News
Get wise to
flat VAT facts following last November’s pre-Budget report, compared with the standard rate of VAT of 17.5%, reduced to 15%. Her Majesty’s Revenue Leach said: “My last & Custom’s (HMRC) flataccountant wasn’t aware rate scheme. of it and friends’ accountFederation member ants have said there’s no Martin Leach, of Arena such thing. I estimate that Hair, Nottingham, said I save around £6,000 per not all salons realised a year by being on the flatflat-rate scheme existed. rate scheme. One salon owner he spoke to said even his Martin Leach “The reason this works saves £6,000 annually for me is that my stock accountant did not realise purchases for salon use a flat-rate scheme existed only account for 10% of my turnover. If for hairdressers. my retail sales increased considerably, I Salons can join the flat-rate scheme would have to consider coming off the if their estimated VAT taxable turnover, scheme. The higher my retail sales and excluding VAT, in the next year will be therefore the higher my stock purchas£150,000 or less and if their estimated total business income, including VAT, in es, the worse off I become”. the next year will be £187,500 or less, Brian Corbould, who runs the VAT excluding income from the sale of any Management Services consultancy, capital assets. said salons needed to look at the pros The flat-rate scheme for hairdressers and cons because not everyone would is 12%, reduced temporarily to 10.5% be better off. Many salons entitled to pay a lower rate of VAT are thought to be failing to register for
“I’ve seen some salons for whom it would be better and some worse depending on the way they operate.” Those who rented out premises on top of their salon, for example, had to include that income in the scheme, but if they were not in the flat-rate scheme, the rent would be exempt. A capital item disposal such as a lease or anything sold by way of business would be taxable. “You have to be very careful. If you are thinking of disposing of a lease, make sure you are outside of the flat-rate scheme long before. Take strong advice before you move,” Corbould said. An HMRC spokeswoman said some hairdressers would be “eminently suited to the scheme” but also said they needed to study the advantages and disadvantages. Those who are registering for VAT for the first time get an extra 1% VAT discount under the flat-rate scheme for the first year. For more information go to http:// www.hmrc.gov.uk/vat/start/schemes/ flat-rate.htm.
Cutthe takes to the regions The NHF-led industry campaign to get the rate of VAT cut to 5% for hairdressing services has started to gain media interest in the regions. The Lancashire Evening Post spoke to Linda Gates, chairman of the NHF branch in Preston who explained to business reporter David Coates that she wanted the government to recognise that the one-size-fitsall rate did not work. Gates, who has run Trading in Hair salon in the Plungington area of the city for the last 20 years, told the newspa-
PAGE 8 SALONFOCUS NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009
per: “We might use a tiny bit of electric to dry a customer’s hair and a small amount for laundering but otherwise we’ve nothing much which is VAT deductible.” She told the newspaper that she knew some hairdressers in Preston were purposely keeping their business below the turnover threshold for VAT and therefore were not expanding and employing more people in a strategy that was stifling enterprise. The newspaper quoted NHF president Harry Walker who said it would
Hellen Ward is keen to cut VAT
be far better to look at the totality of future taxation strategy. Meanwhile, NHF member Victoria RemblanceSummers, from Blonde on Blonde, in Gloucester, has launched an online petition on the official site of the Prime Minister’s Office where people can pledge their support. Signatories at http://petitions.number10.gov.uk/ Hairdressers-VAT include Joanna Hansford, Hellen Ward and John Wood MBE among some of the more highprofile names.
Hair Clips In your Facebook
Shortcuts has developed an online booking application for salons’ Facebook fan pages which it claims is a world first for hair and beauty salons.
Ambassador Woolley
Mark Woolley, owner
and creative director of Electric Hairdressing, in
Brighton and Reading, has been appointed creative ambassador for Denman Professional.
Wilson qualifies
Lucie Wilson, franchisee owner of the Rae Palmer Hair Boutique, in Chichester,
has been awarded the Schwarzkopf Colour Master qualification.
A Shaw thing
Simon Shaw, co-founder
and past director of the Haringtons salon group, has launched Simon Shaw Education, undertaking courses for L’Oreal and
Flu do’s –
Legal Lifeline issues new advice
The NHF’s Legal Lifeline has come up with practical pointers for salon owners to help them in the event of staff sickness this winter. Its guidance comes in the wake of its warning to Federation members in the summer that the swine flu scare should serve as a timely reminder to put in place contingency plans against all unexpected events (SalonFocus July/ August 2009). Every winter brings with it a flu risk which is exacerbated this year by the prevalence of the swine variant. Gillian Dowling, employment technical consultant for Croner, which operates the lifeline, said: “We know the recovery time for swine flu is likely to be at least a week so there is the possibility that even in a firm with a small number of staff, sickness absence could overlap.”
Her advice includes: • Ensure other employees can pick up the work of a sick colleague. • Client information such as treatments, colours and styles should be easily accessed by other stylists. • Update any sketchy records because stylists working at the salon a long time might have not kept them up comprehensively. • Set up a “handover book” for daily issues, often used when there is a handover of part-time staff. • Allot extra space in the appointments system for making notes about clients’ requests or treatments when appointments are made. • Encourage employees to help out and be flexible. Those with fixed hours of work do not have to agree to a change in hours or extra times to cover staff sickness but they can be persuaded to do so if there are incentives such as time off in lieu at a less busy time, or extra pay. • Consider whether you have anyone you could employ temporarily in an emergency.
privately for individual salons. He is also a mentor for L’Oreal’s id artist programme.
AIPP winners
Atherton Cox and Toni & Guy were among the
winning salons at the Association Internationale Presse Professionnelle Coiffure Awards 2009-2010
in Paris, on September 13.
www.nhf.info
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009 SALONFOCUS PAGE 9
News
Snippets Website with wings
Salon geeks
expose owners to prosecution Salon staff who use electronic equipment such as laptops plugged into the mains at work to watch television during their breaks are leaving their bosses at risk of prosecution if the salon does not have a TV licence. The issue came to light after Barry Di Biase, owner of Di Biase salon in New Malden, Surrey, contacted the NHF’s Legal Lifeline for advice. He was advised that salon owners would have a defence of breach of the Communications (Television Licensing) Regulations 2004 if they could show they were not aware of anyone using or installing a TV receiver and would reasonably not have been aware of such use. The Legal Lifeline suggested putting up a sign informing staff they must not watch TV because the business did not have a licence. However, Basil Long, senior legal consultant, stressed this was not failsafe because while a sign might be a defence, a notice, in itself, would not exempt a salon owner from prosecution if TV Licensing deemed the salon owner had been, or should have been, aware staff were watching TV. A TV licensing spokesperson, confirmed: “The owner of the premises may still be liable regardless of any notices to staff.” The spokesperson pointed out that if programmes were being received on a device powered by its own batteries, such as a mobile phone or laptop not
DI BIASE LTD The Di Biase Salon does not hold a television licence. The PRS certificate does not cover the salon for any live television transmissions or downloads. This applies to televisions, lap top computers, mobile phones and any other hand held device. You may use BBCi player or radio sets with ear pieces in your break times. We regret you are not allowed to watch any live Television on these Premises.
The NHF is launching a new improved website, including an e-commerce shop where members will be able to renew membership, their Phonographic Performance Limited license and buy salon stationery. Areas and branches will have dedicated pages for them to highlight their activities.
Lifestyle Award
Bristol County Court has ordered Lifestyle TV, which
was wound up this summer, to pay Lizzy Tucker, owner of Lady PJ’s Hairdressers, in Shirehampton, Bristol, £15,425 for debt, interest and costs in relation to her contract for Lifestyle’s diamond crystal mirror system, including television screens, in-salon channels and programming.
Paternity consultation
The government is consulting on new regulations that would give men the right from April 2011 to take up to six months off work, with the statutory maternity rate paid for three of those months, from the seventh month of their child’s life if the mother has returned to work.
Roger and in
plugged into the wall, then the person using that device would be covered by the licence for their home address. A TV licence was required for watching or recording programmes as they were broadcast. Downloading content that was previously broadcast using catch-up services such as those on BBC iPlayer did not require a licence. The issue is a serious one for salon owners: a successful prosecution brings a criminal conviction and a fine of up to £1,000.
NHF immediate past president Mike Thornhill has just celebrated his 40th year in hairdressing. He got his first job in 1969 at Roger’s Hair Salon, in Mirfield, West Yorkshire, where he has been ever since.
Reds hairdresser wins medallion
Linzi Weare, 19, from NHFmember salon Reds Hair Company, of Ross on Wye,
Herefordshire, has won a Medallion for Excellence at the WorldSkills Competition in Calgary, Canada.
VAT back up
Members are reminded that, subject to any last minute U-turn, VAT is scheduled to return to 17.5% from the new year and the flat rate from 10.5% to 12%.
PAGE 10 SALONFOCUS NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009
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News
Beauty Spots
Salons
Neville’s nails it Neville’s Hair & Beauty,
‘underestimate’ boiler risks Salons rely on hot water and central heating, yet many appear to be underestimating the serious potential impact that a boiler or central heating failure can have on their business, John
John Jefferies warns of boiler failure dangers
in Belgravia, south west London, has launched matte manicures to capitalise on trends in makeup and clothing. Clients choose the polish they want and a matte solution is added. A chamoise cloth is brushed over the nail when dry to leave a “shimmer luxe effect” A glossy French tip can be added for contrast.
Jefferies, British Gas BusinessCare
product manager, has warned. British Gas research shows that half of small businesses fail to plan for such an event and risk financial upheaval and temporary closure. The company, which won approved supplier status with the NHF this summer on the back of its new BusinessCare product range (SalonFocus Sept/ Oct 2009), says a boiler breaks down every 20 seconds. Jefferies said: “The financial implications can go far beyond the £400 repair fee, or the £3,000 needed for a replacement; there are also more damaging costs caused by the disruption to a business, such as temporary closure, or the long-term impact that poor conditions within a salon can have on customer relations.” He said customer service was crucial to the hairdressing industry and salons needed to work ever harder to retain loyalty in the current climate. “Issues with heating, a lack of hot water, or ad-hoc closures can be the difference between a business succeeding or failing in today’s environment,” he said. British Gas’s research shows half of small businesses are confused about what they should do to comply with the obligation laid out in the 2008 Gas Safety Regulations to have their boiler inspected annually, and are putting themselves, their employees and customers at risk. Jefferies warned: “Not only could noncompliance lead to boiler failure, but it can also lead to a maximum £20,000 fine and possible imprisonment.” He said boiler inspections were crucial in mitigating against breakdown and to improve energy efficiency
PAGE 12 SALONFOCUS NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009
Cheap is sometimes better
especially when you considered that failure could make or break a hairdressing business during the winter. Employers are required to send staff home if a salon’s ambient temperature falls below 21deg C. This is one of the reasons British Gas Business developed a heating care service, BusinessCare, to minimise the costs and disruption that a boiler breakdown might otherwise cause. NHF members get a 20% discount.
The BusinessCare range includes a number of services that can help salons to ensure they identify any problems with their boilers or central heating before they cause a breakdown. This includes unlimited call outs, a 24-hour, 365-day business customer helpline with a guaranteed four-hour response time, parts and labour, annual safety checks and a detailed Gas Safety Record to ensure compliance with current regulations, More details on this are available at Britishgas.co.uk/business. Turn to page 22 for SalonFocus’s helpful feature on how to keep on top of salon maintenance tasks.
The most expensive antiwrinkle eye creams and face moisturisers are not necessarily better than their cheaper cousins, research from Which? reveals. It found one £3.21 product outperformed another costing £47.
Eye eye
L’Oreal is branching out into eye cosmetic treatment. It is developing a gel product which makes eyelashes longer and denser.
Lib Dems frown on airbrushing
The Liberal Democrats have called for magazines to be banned from airbrushing photographs in advertisements aimed at young people.
Animal-friendly
The Lily Lolo mineral make-up brand has been approved under the British Union for Abolition of Vivisection Humane
Cosmetics Standards after an independent audit of its ingredients.
Pod job
Fake Bake is cashing in on
craze for “tanning parties” with a light-weight gold and black inflatable pod that therapists can use in people’s homes.
Movers &
Groovers Veck’s best
Anne Veck salon group has won the Best Newcomer Award in the Oxfordshire
NHF
Education Business Partnership’s 2009 Investors
in Education Awards, held at Oxford’s Said Business School. Director Keith Mellen received his award from Oxford East MP
members walk it
Andrew Smith.
Get me to the salon on time Seanhanna salons has
launched a Bridal Hair Car Service which will collect the bride or bridal party from home in a luxury car, take them to the nearest seanhanna salon where they will be styled for the wedding day and then driven back home. The service includes a free consultation appointment before the wedding day.
NHF members triumphed at the British Hairdressing Business Awards, at the Royal Lancaster Hotel, in London, at the end of September. Members scooped a phenomenal eight awards out of a total of thirteen categories. Michael Van Clarke was the star of the night, seizing victory in four categories: Salon Team of the Year, sponsored by Balmain; Training Award, sponsored by Wella Professionals; Salon of the Year 1, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional; and Marketing Award, sponsored by Hairdressers Journal International. Other Federation winners were The Colour Room, Stockport, Customer Care Award, sponsored by
More hobs
The hob group has opened a franchise in the London areas of Southgate, run by Bobbi Kimonos, and in West Hampstead, run by Robert Edwards. Danielle Hollis and Phil Hutchinson, the first franchisees to come from outside the group, have opened in Leeds, Yorkshire, the group’s first salon in the North of England. The openings take the group to 18 salons comprising 10 owned branches and eight franchises.
Kerastase; Lisa Shepherd Salons,
Birmingham, Salon Design Award, sponsored by Aston & Fincher; Rush London, Retail Salon of the Year, sponsored by TIGI; and Scott Smurthwaite, Cream, Gloucester, Business Director of the Year, sponsored by Hairdressers Journal International. Sean Dawson, from hob, one of the NHF Inspire mentors, won Manager of the Year, sponsored by
Burlesque bonus Hayley Waters from NHF member group Burlesque,
L’Oreal Professionnel.
in Newport, Gwent, won the Partner Colourist Category of the UK leg of Goldwell’s Trend Zoom Colour Challenge 2009. She was scheduled to compete in the Trend Zoom Global Challenge, on October 25, for the chance to become a member of the Creative Team 2010.
Ciente preferred
Joshua Galvin @ Central Training has awarded its Michael Van Clarke (top) won four awards and Sean Dawson (bottom) was named Manager of the Year.
www.nhf.info
first Preferred Training Salon to Ciente, in Berkhampsted, owned by Trisha Buller. The scheme recognises salons that employ qualified and experienced stylists by providing high quality services and training for all their staff.
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009 SALONFOCUS PAGE 13
News
products tough it out
Salon
Mintel expects hair salon shampoos and conditioners to account for a marginally greater proportion of overall market value sales this year because they are less likely to be affected by price promotions and heavy discounting. However, salon conditioners are expected to see value sales drop £6m between 2008 and 2009 and salon shampoos are forecast to drop in value by £9m in 2009 as consumers cut back on their salon experiences. Alexandra Richmond, who analysed the market for Mintel in its latest overview of the sector, said a small proportion of women were prepared to spend more on conditioners and hair treatments but this also had the adverse affect of enabling them to increase the amount of time between visits and reduce the number of treatments they needed when there. Richmond said the opportunity for salon owners would lie in retaining existing consumer interest in their offer and demonstrating value through what they did, and good customer service.
VISITS TO HAIR SALONS
FIGURE 4: Trends in hair/salon/barber visits, by gender, 2006-08 Base: adults aged 15+
% 2006
% 2007
% 2008
% point change 2006-08
Women who have visited the hairdresser (in the last 12 months)
86
84
81
-5
Once every 2-3 weeks or more
11
9
9
-2
Once a month
23
22
23
-
Once every 2-3 months or less
66
69
67
+1
Men who have visited the hairdresser/barber (in the last 12 months)
67
68
68
+1
Once every 2-3 weeks or more
8
6
5
-3
Once a month
37
36
36
-1
Once every 2-3 months or less
55
58
59
+4
Taken from the TGI survey of around 25,000 adults SOURCE: GB TGI Q1 2006-09/Mintel
NHF
high-flyers poised forvictory NHF members and salons groups closely associated with the NHF could be poised to make a killing at the British Hairdressing Awards finals later this month. More than half of the specialist category finalists are either NHF members or linked to the NHF. Nearly half of all finalists are NHF members and several feature among the British Hairdresser of the Year
PAGE 14 SALONFOCUS NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009
nominees: Lisa Shepherd, Errol Douglas
and Gary Hooker and Michael Young. Akin Konizi, who is
one of the NHF art team mentors and Phil Smith, a franchisee from Toni & Guy, which has some of its salons in membership, are also among the nominees. Four out of five of the Midlands Hairdresser of the Year finalists are
members and the NHF’s
British Hairdresser of the Year nominees Errol Douglas and Gary Hooker & Michael Young
showing in Afro Hairdresser of the Year, North Eastern Hairdresser of the Year and North Western Hairdresser of the Year is
particularly strong. Eileen Lawson, NHF secretary general, said: “I am really excited about the finals at the Gros-
venor House Hotel, in London, on November 23. The number of finalists in membership shows that we are not only attracting the UK’s best salon business operators but also the best creative hairdressers.
Cutting Brief
YOUR LEGAL PROBLEMS
SOLVED Gillian Dowling from Croner, operator of the NHF’s Legal Lifeline, answers your questions I reprimanded an employee and she walked out in a strop only to return two hours later. I was cross she did not handle constructive criticism maturely although I understood she was upset. I doubt I would deal with her differently if I could turn back the clocks. How should I have managed this?
It is best to have a private meeting in a place where others cannot overhear when discussing poor performance issues with employees. Think through in advance about the problem and the improvements needed so you can explain clearly what is wrong, and listen to what they have to say about the issue. Tell the employee what needs to be done to improve and keep notes for future reference. You can confirm the details of the meeting by letter and set up another meeting in a couple of weeks to discuss any progress, or lack of, that might have been made. A quiet word in this way is often called “informal action”. You would have to consider “formal action” if the matter is serious, or there is no improvement, by arranging a disciplinary meeting with the employee. You risk your employee making a constructive unfair dismissal claim at an Employment Tribunal if the incident proved confrontational and tempers lost. They would have to resign in such a case and allege that what happened was a fundamental breach of contract or the “last straw” in a chain of events which, in effect, means that it is impossible to continue their role. They would ask the Tribunal to “construe” from the employer’s actions that there was, in fact, a dismissal. Even though they have returned to work, they could resign in the next day or two. You may be better off having a quiet word now in the back office to calm things down if there is that risk. It could be appropriate to consider formal disciplinary action if the action of walking out was completely out of proportion to what was said and had a serious impact on your business. This is a more involved procedure which we can discuss with you in detail on the Legal Lifeline.
www.nhf.info
I have an employee who seems to have flu more often on a Monday than not and her sick mother is always at her sickest on a Friday afternoon. I am sure she is having a laugh at my expense. What can I do and what are the dangers of accusing her of lying outright?
The first thing that you need to do is to keep proper records of all the “sick” days. You might have to look back over your diary to work out what the real levels of absence are if you have not done that so far. You cannot really have a proper discussion with someone about their poor absence record if you are relying on an impression or gut reaction. You need to have accurate information and you should also check out the pattern of sick days taken. The sick days, as you have indicated here, may have been used to extend a weekend. Other common issues are taking sick days which coincide with sporting events, social occasions or concerts. It is important, as a general rule, to keep records of the days your staff take off sick and the reasons they give for that absence. The next step is to have a meeting with the employee to discuss the number of days off and the timings. You cannot accuse her of lying but it could be appropriate to say that she always seems to give the same reasons and that there really are only a limited number of times that someone genuinely falls ill with flu. You can point out to her, showing her your records, that her absence follows a pattern and ask her what is really going on here. How you then deal with the matter depends on what she says. Assuming you have not spoken to her about the absences before, the outcome of this meeting will stand as an informal warning. You should confirm in writing that her absence is unacceptable and that formal disciplinary action will be taken which could eventually lead to her dismissal if it continues. The NHF Guidelines on Terms and Conditions of Employment in salons sets out the disciplinary procedure and the Legal Lifeline can talk you through all the various steps you will need to take. • This article provides general guidance only. NHF members are entitled to specific advice on the telephone from the Legal Lifeline on 0844 561 8180.
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009 SALONFOCUS PAGE 15
Federation
focus
Photocall
The clock is ticking for those who want to enter the NHF’s
High fives in Cheshire
Talent spotting
down South Exclusive offer
from Team GB Team GB is looking to hold workshops,
shows and demonstrations around the country for any area or branch that may be interested in the run up to the World Hairdressing Championships in a year’s time. Wendy Harris, team manager, will invite branches and areas to suggest what they would like the team to do for them. Team GB is training monthly initially and then twice a month as the industry’s biannual highlight approaches. The team is scheduled to enter the Athens European Championships in the spring, hard on the success of Or-
Five new competitions were launched at the Cheshire Championships last month in a bid to modernise the competitions without jettisoning established categories. A first timers’ competition, long hair up, long hair down, clipper design and pure fantasy made up the new menu at the Forum Theatre, in Romiley, Stockport, on October 11. Michael Burgum, Cheshire branch president and competition director, said more people entered this year, especially younger hairdressers.
The South of England Championships take place later this month covering a wide range of categories including competitions Team GB can enter. Wendy Harris, Team GB manager, will be on the hunt for new talent for the British squad. John Light, National Executive Council member for the Southern Area, said: “We know the current climate has been difficult for some people but I would say to you all, don’t be afraid to enter, you have to start somewhere and there are competitions for everyone.” Competitions can be entered individually or together. The championships will be held at the Novotel in, Southampton, on November 15. Call John Light on 01794 521849 for details.
British Open Hairdressing Championships on May 16. Phone 0845 345 6500/01234 831965 for
further information and an application.
All change at the Open
PHOTO: www.paul-baker-photography.co.uk
Stafford demo in NE
The British Open Championships has a new date and venue – May 16 at Cardiff City Stadium. The £56m 27,000-seater venue is easy to get to by both road and rail. The British Open Championships is one of the most important competitions for the hairdressing industry, bringing together competitors from all over the country and not just NHF members.
PAGE 16 SALONFOCUS NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009
Entries must be submitted to head office no later than the end of January. Competitors, who may be individuals or teams of two or more, should create a fashion look suitable for the front page of a fashion magazine for ladies’ or men’s hair. Finalists will be notified in March and the awards ceremony will take place at the
Thomas Temperley’s entry was ladies’ winner in this year’s Photographic Stylist of the Year
ganisation Mondiale de la Coffiure’s OMC European Open Cup in the same
Greek city in June and participants hope to expand on the success they enjoyed there (SalonFocus September/October 2009.) The Moscow European Championships will be held in February which the team also hopes to enter. Harris said: “With such a strong team to take forward to the World Hairdressing Championships next November I am very hopeful of a good outcome.” Wendy Harris can be contacted on 01708 226143.
Photographic Stylist of the Year 2010.
Leanne Willis, NHF British Fashion Hairdresser 2009 (2nd left) with Harry Walker, president, and models.
Lee Stafford and his team performed for North East Area in Gateshead, Tyne & Wear, at the end of September. The demonstration at the Marriott Hotel included a DVD show reel, several trend-based cuts and colours on models. Attendees also witnessed work based on Stafford’s myhairdressers.com training resource, and instruction on how hairdressers could use the service to educate themselves and their staff.
Dreaming of a hob Christmas NHF Inspire mentors from the hob creative team let SalonFocus in on some of their Christmas secrets
Brenda Shankey’s entry was men’s winner
Yorkshire ramps up competition content
Changes will be in evidence at the Yorkshire Hairdressing Championships at Jumpin Jaks, in Halifax, later this month. Two new competitions will be launched at the November 15 hairdressing fest: a Men’s Commercial Fashion Manikin Competition and a Photographic Competition. Entrants for the photographic competition are invited to submit a 8in x 10in photograph of either a male or female that would be suitable for a magazine front cover. The photographs will be judged on the day. Phil Cooling, Yorkshire Hairdressing Championships secretary, said “We are hoping that with the manikin heads, younger and up-andcoming hairdressers whom we would like to see in the limelight in a couple of years time will participate.” A scissor sharpening service will be available with all the proceeds donated to the Hair & Beauty Benevolent
charity. Contact Phil Cooling on 01924 493800.
(L-R) Sean Dawson, Christel Lundqvist and Akin Konizi
How will you spend this Christmas? Sean Dawson: I will be at home and
will have the family round. We have just finished an extension so we thought we would christen it by hosting Christmas. I will be cooking Christmas dinner for 22 people. What is your favourite Christmas song? Akin Konizi: White Christmas. It’s a
classic and when you hear it, you know Christmas has really arrived. What is your favorite Christmas film? Christel Lundqvist: A Christmas Carol
– it’s all about Christmas. It really has that festive feel. What was your best Christmas present? Sean Dawson: A Chopper bike when
I was eight. It was the coolest bike in town and I spent most of my youth riding for miles around. Will you be working at all over Christmas and New Year? Akin Konizi: I will be working through-
out the Christmas and New Year period as this gives us a good time to plan and organise 2010. If you could have any three wishes for this Christmas and the New Year what would they be? Christel Lundqvist: That the coming
year will be as great, if not better, than this year, to see my family more often as they don’t live in London and for everyone to have happiness and good health.
www.nhf.info
Mentors inspire NHF art team
NHF Inspire and its hob creative team mentors have declared their first photoshoot together an outstanding success. The NHF’s art team met their mentors for a brainstorming session at a pre-shoot preparation day where they went through the process of selecting models, meeting the photographer, stylist and make-up artist. The mentors also shareed their own insight into preparing and setting up for an award-winning photoshoot. The collection’s theme took inspiration from an 80s’ retro concept with a focus on key words such as “strong”, “unique”, “clean” and “progressive”. The main colour focus was black and gold, and bold, dramatic eyes and metallic lips for the make-up. Wendy Cummins, artistic
Inspiring Conference
The annual NHF Conference included a two hour seminar featuring the talents of NHF Inspire, led by artistic director Wendy Cummins and mentored by the hob creative team, and a one-hour presentation by hob creative team member, Sean Dawson. Dawson presented six models in a session split into three twenty minute segments. The seminar incorporated three styles – a commercial cut, a strong creative directional cut and a long hair-up style influenced by Dawson’s recent London Fashion Week attendance backstage at Henry Holland’s show. The NHF Inspire presentation was hosted by team members, Gary Hunter, Helen Ainsworth and Claire Solman. It comprised
three segments using eight models. The team’s hair demonstrations focused on commercial hair looks using hair pieces to show the different styles that could be achieved. The inspiration for the show was drawn from the recent NHF Inspire hair collection launched this autumn.
director, said the level of mentoring available to Claire Solman, Helen Ainsworth, Joanne O’Neill and Heidi McDonald from hob’s Christel Lundqvist, Claire Dawson and Akin Konizi,
was “awe inspiring”. The collection will appear in a future issue of Salon Focus.
3 in 1 saves time
North East Area has started to hold three-in-one meetings in an endeavour to make the best use of members’ time and to ensure no one misses out. The area will hold a jury study, branch and area meeting on November 23 at the Marton Hotel and Country Club, Middlesbrough. All members are welcome to come along. Leanne Willis, from The Venue, Ashington, and Graham Smith, from Graham Daniels Salon, in Billingham, will make a presentation on Ladies’ and Gent’s competition work in all categories at the jury study meeting. Avril Walker, North East Area Council secretary, said: “We want members to attend so they can see what you should be looking for and see how to use how to use the national and international jury score cards.”
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009 SALONFOCUS PAGE 17
INSPIRED
BIGON Barbarella Hair: NHF Inspire Creative Direction: Charlie Taylor Art direction: Wendy Cummins Photography: Simon Powell Make up: Aisling Aire
www.nhf.info
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2009 SALONFOCUS PAGE 19
INSPIREd
PAGE 20 SALONFOCUS NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2009 SALONFOCUS PAGE 21
On top of
the job
Geoffrey Wolfarth reports on the ins and outs of keeping on top of salon maintenance
One of the common areas of friction between landlord and tenant under commercial leases is the question of who is responsible for what. The answer is in the lease agreement which will normally be a “full repairing and insuring lease”. Most follow a similar pattern whereby the landlord is generally responsible for the structure and exterior of the building. Tenants will usually pay a proportionate contribution to the cost of any such repairs as well as insurance and rent. They are responsible for the interior and any fixtures such as sinks, pipes and drains leading to and from them, and the electrical wiring that serves walllights and equipment. Geoffrey Wolfarth is a The “interior” includes all the space solicitor specialising in up to the inside surfaces of all exterior commercial property at Adams & Remers. walls. The space between the interior and exterior walls is the tenant’s responsibility where there are cavity walls. This could include areas such as loft space that contains water cisterns. The standard of repair and maintenance is usually defined by expressions such as keeping the premises in “good and tenantable repair”. This essentially imposes a commonsense standard of fixing what needs to be repaired and replacing what is broken. Tenants must clear blocked drains, for example, or if a frozen pipe bursts, they have to replace the pipe. Salon owners who use commonsense will almost certainly comply with any conditions in their lease.
Practical tips
Take a complete set of photographs of the premises,ideally before taking occupation. These will constitute proof to your landlord and, if necessary, to the court, in the event of a dispute over condition. Date mark them. Ensure the premises is inspected for obvious defects monthly. Check for things such as leaks in toilet cisterns, discoloured tiles and holes in the skirting boards. Early detection of
PAGE 22 SALONFOCUS NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009
minor faults and prompt action is the best way to keep premises in good condition. Get a builder to undertake an inspection at least yearly to see whether any major items need repair or are likely to need repair. Leases usually have an inspection provision for the landlord and may prescribe a fixed cycle of 3-5 years for internal and external redecoration. Avoid DIY repairs unless the defect is simple. Hire a professional because bodged DIY repairs often merely hide defects which become worse long term and lead to expensive repair bills. Keep a documents folder containing all relevant materials such as guarantees for specific items of equipment, insurance policies and emergency call-out numbers. It is useful to keep a note of key dates such as the expiry of annual maintenance contracts for the boiler and other gas and electrical appliances as well as for insurance renewal. Do not delay repairs and maintenance especially if someone else is responsible for them. Be pro-active and chase the landlord or anyone else to carry out the works and make sure that you keep a written record of all communications you have. You should, in principle, arrange to carry out the works and deduct the cost that you might subsequently be liable for in the future if a landlord does not carry out the repairs within a reasonable time of being notified in writing of the defects. Courts will support any such actions if a tenant acts reasonably when landlords fail to carry out their obligations.
Freeholders
Treat yourself as being a tenant of the property and follow the same general principles. In particular, if you have let part of the building, especially flats above the salon, you will be under legal obligations to carry out repairs to the residential portions of the building, too. Insist on inspecting the residential tenant’s premises and generally be as pro-active as you would be if you were a tenant. It is advisable in a mixed-use building to ensure that the electrical systems and meters are physically separated before the residential flats are let out. It has been known for freeholders of the shop premises to pick up the bill for the residential flats’ utilities because someone has bypassed the meters.
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Staff development
breeds
success
Gary Harlock is a recognised expert in the field of education and training. He is a former head of apprenticeships for Toyota and is currently a director at Perspective, an authority in apprenticeship training and on- and off-site learning.
The more you invest in developing your staff, the better your reputation among job seekers and customers and ultimately the more successful you become, says Gary Harlock Educational supplements in national newspapers and articles in business magazines are full of information about “employee training”. It seems to be the buzz among MPs and businesses alike – and, indeed, there are good reasons for this – be it new government investment, bridging skills gaps or just reiterating the positive benefits. Ongoing investment in staff training brings with it many positive advantages for both employee and employer. Employers benefit from a more technically advanced and efficient workforce while employees gain motivation and new skills. Identifying any skills gaps in your business is essential if you want to ensure it reaches its maximum potential. Staff training is an effective way of filling these gaps. Investment in staff
development motivates employees by increasing their sense of worth within the workplace personally and professionally. The result is a happier workforce that is more productive.
Skills Gap
Start close to home when trying to identify skills gaps and develop key areas of your business. Evaluate the skills of existing staff to identify whether you are making the most of their potential. You might be unaware of some of their transferable skills that could be utilised within other areas of your business. Alternatively, there may be a member of staff keen to develop skills in a certain area. Skills development can improve a business in several ways. It will provide individuals with the ability to perform their existing roles more efficiently or to a higher standard. This could potentially involve learning how to use a new piece of equipment that could save time or increase productivity, or it may be more along the lines of introducing best practice to any given job.
Hierarchy
The Francesco Hairdressing Group implemented an online student monitoring system
PAGE 24 SALONFOCUS NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009
Training will, in many cases, allow individuals to move up the business hierarchy. This will not only enforce your message of commitment to your employees by giving them a career path but it could also be used to help them take on a new role that will ultimately allow your business to grow and move into new areas of work.
Practical
Francesco Hairdressing Group has improved achievement in young people
Training can be delivered in several ways including vocational training, Modern Apprenticeships and Train to Gain (TtG)
“ There are, more than 1,300 different NVQ courses available so, whatever your professional requirements, there is more than likely going to be a course available.”
courses – all proving to be popular ways for staff to gain NVQ qualifications. Assessment and delivery will happen on site and at college but disruption to the normal working day is always kept to a minimum. The cost of the majority of training courses are at the very least subsidised, if not totally free, thanks to ongoing government investment.
Requirements
However, before you start filling in the forms, there are entry requirements for these courses. They vary from course to course but usually require the trainee to have two to five GCSE’s, or equivalent, at grade D or above. Entrants have to be over 19 for some TtG schemes. Course content varies depending on the type of training undertaken. Individuals will, as a general overview, receive a mix of training that includes the development of occupational skills that are used on a daily basis and other key basic skills.
www.nhf.info
An NVQ Level 2 in Hairdressing, for example, will include practical training on how to shampoo and condition hair and the scalp, style hair using drying and setting techniques, cut hair using basic techniques, perm and neutralise and change hair colour. It will also help people develop client-facing skills such as consultations, giving a good first impression, developing and maintaining effective workplace relationships and supporting health and safety within the working environment.
Resource
General training will be given in the application of numbers, communication and IT – all of which are essential if someone is going to move through the ranks and ultimately become a more valuable resource. Indeed, there are many courses available that do not necessarily correlate directly to cutting hair but that could be used to ensure that the business runs as efficiently as possible. Courses such as general management NVQs will teach a host of skills that can be transferred directly into a salon environment. Staff management, time management, keeping tabs on product stock and problem solving are all skills that can be easily utilised to the benefit of your business. Customer Service NVQs can be used at front of house, Communication and Information Technology can be used to ensure websites are kept up to date and Accounting can be used to keep all of the businesses finances in order. There are more than 1,300 NVQ courses to choose from so there is likely to be one available, whatever your professional requirements.
Timeline
There is no specific timeline in which courses have to be completed although, NVQ Levels 1 and 2 can usually be completed over an educational year. However, Level 3 courses do generally take longer because they are more detailed and complex but can still usually be completed within two years. Assessment of these training courses can either be completed by the salon staff if they have their trainer’s award or, if not, by an independent course tutor from the college supplying the training. There are generally four areas to assess over the course of the NVQ: practical – completing various day-to-day tasks; oral – answering questions on what has been learnt; written – a portfolio of evidence, which can be built up over the course of the year, or written test; and finally, online tests.
Attendance
Monitoring learner progression and attendance throughout is essential if courses are going to be success. Online student management solutions are available to ensure this is a quick and simple process and that all parties involved are kept up to date every step of the way. This form of monitoring motivates learners because they, too, have access to their records and can see how they are progressing and where they need to improve.
Francesco
The Francesco Hairdressing Group implemented an online student monitoring system and reported almost instant success in terms of pass rates and time saved on completing forms and registers. It has since been presented with the National Excellence Award for raising achievement in young people by Prince Charles and former US presidential candidate Al Gore. Outlay from employers is absolutely minimal and with the returns having the potential be exponential, staff development and training is an area that should not be overlooked by any employer wanting to make the most of their business.
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009 SALONFOCUS PAGE 25
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Nigel Sillis is former director of Vidal Sassoon UK salons and schools and is a trustee of the Fellowship of British Hairdressing and a member of the council. He has worked as a consultant for companies such as John Carne, Harrods’ Urban Retreat and Sanrizz.
PROFIT
BUILDER What you do in your salon at Christmas will lay the foundation for your success in the following year, says Nigel Sillis
Preparing your salon for Christmas has to be timed just right and not overcooked. This is the busiest trading period of the year in our industry and it is essential clients have the best possible experience. It is, of course, important commercially but it should be fun, too, for staff and clients. You should use the festive season to make your salon stand out…for all the right reasons. You will be seeing almost all of your regular clients and hopefully some new ones in a relatively short space of time so capitalise on this for greater success in the future.
Decorations
I think the first week in December is early enough to put up decorations. Space is often a limiting factor but most salons will be able to integrate Christmas decorations into the shop-front window display. Gift boxes and gift vouchers should be given priority in this display. Traditional Christmas trees look great but take up a lot of room and, if real, will deteriorate quickly in the salon atmosphere. It is important to ensure the decorations reflect the overall image of the salon. You may be fortunate enough to have a client who specialises in window display so you could get professional advice for the price of a haircut. I remember decorating a salon once with miniature penguins that were integrated with the product displays. They where so popular clients wanted to buy them instead of the products.
Festive refreshments
Serving complementary mince pies during the last week or two before Christmas is a nice touch. So is a free glass of wine but you need to feel confident that this will be controlled.
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Staff dress
The wine should be for clients only and served in limited quantities towards the end of the day. I know we all love the subject of “health & safety” but can you imagine what would happen if one of your stylists after a glass of wine accidentally cut or scratched a client with their scissors? You also want to be careful you do not fall foul of the licensing authority so find out what the local policy is on such things.
Festive music
I have nothing against Noddy Holder and the Slade boys but the thought of listening to festive music on a daily basis during the build up to Christmas could persuade me to throw myself on my scissors, but that is just my view. Very occasional could be acceptable or even just on Christmas Eve. But do be careful if you play The Pogues Fairytale of New York if the vicar’s wife is having her hair done. It might be the last time you see her.
The idea of voluntary fancy dress is great for the last trading day before Christmas. A competition between staff on who has been the most imaginative adds fun. Remind your team this needs to be done “in the best possible taste”. I remember an assistant dressed as a baby, all in nappies only to be arrested on his way to work. After several calls to the local police station we got him released. Another time a rather conservative gentleman sent a letter of complaint after he was shampooed by an assistant who was dressed in a way that left little to the imagination. We had to compose a very carefully written apology. Finally, I have only one more thing to say at this time of year: “A Merry Christmas to us all my dears. God bless us!…God bless us every one!”
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009 SALONFOCUS PAGE 27
Ethnic
Big Afro Going
the
way
Afro and ethnic services are lucrative for those who get it right. Simon Russell-Roberts, Toni & Guy’s franchisee in Gloucester Road, south-west London, tells SalonFocus how to introduce this hair care category to a mainstream salon
Women with Afro or mixed-race hair spend an estimated six times more on hairdressing services and products than their European hair counterparts, according to industry estimates. Such potential was not lost on Simon RussellRoberts after he was deluged with enquiries by local students about Afro services. As one of Toni & Guy’s 226 UK salons inspiring a strong and loyal client base, Russell-Roberts was keen to tap into the demand that was plainly evident. Russell-Roberts decided to investigate further into introducing this extra business strand to his salon. He says: “It had been apparent to me and my business partner Tim Surssedonn for several years that there was a high percentage of African-American women in our area because of the local American college, so when we began getting a great number of people asking whether we offered Afro services, we thought that it would be a logical step to look into it.” With his vision of a multitextured salon in mind, Russell-Roberts and his team set out in earnest to make it happen. The result was that a significant part of the salon’s expanding clientele is now made up of women with Afro and mixed race hair. Russell Roberts says incorporating
PAGE 28 SALONFOCUS NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009
Afro services into the menu did not happen overnight. It became a strong and reliable part of the salon’s business but after comprehensive training its product company Mizani provided and effective marketing. “Instead of employing specific Afro stylists and re-shuffling our team, we ensured that our existing staff were thoroughly trained. To drive in custom, we immediately updated our website and informed our existing clients, which really helped to spread the word.” Russell-Roberts said it took about a year for the business to establish itself but it is now going from strength to strength. He partly puts the success down to having good demand in his area but he stresses that much of it is because he has a unique selling point (USP). “The fact that we had a big enough population of Afro-Caribbean residence in our local community definitely ensured it was feasible, but our technicalcutting technique helped us truly differentiate ourselves from our local competitors and gain a strong foothold in the market”. The Toni & Guy franchise’s base in the capital meant the large amount of competition from specialist salons could have proved a big challenge for a mainstream salon. But this proved not to be a problem. “Although you may think that women with Afro hair would automatically favour a specialist salon over a mainstream one, if you have a USP that appeals to them, it is very possible to compete. “We pride ourselves on our technical cutting and modern finishes which many younger women with Afro hair come to us for. Also, being a multitextured salon has advantages in itself, as some women with fine textured, mixed-race or Arab hair can benefit from salons that have expertise in both European and Afro hair,” he says. Now, after a year of offering Afro services at the salon, Russell Roberts says he would never look back. “With a team of hairdressers trained in all textures, an ever-growing diverse clientele and a jam-packed menu offering everything from highlights to relaxers, I’m definitely on my way to achieving my vision of a multi-textured salon”.
Simon RusseLlRoberts’ top tips: 1 Research the market
If you are considering adding Afro services do your homework first. Assess the likely demand in your area, look at salons already catering for curly hair, read relevant magazines, visit specialist hair shows, attend awards and speak to seasoned Afro stylists. The more you understand the market and how it works, the better you will be able to determine the feasibility of diversifying into this area and the success you will achieve as a result.
2 Get the team on board
Once you’ve done your research, get your team on board. Decide whether it is practical to recruit a qualified Afro specialist, train your existing staff or both. Stylists that have not worked with this hair type before may have misconceptions, so it is important to dispel any myths right from the start. Organising demonstrations and model nights to give them the chance to work on Afro hair will help break down those barriers.
3 Choose the right products
You need to use the right products to successfully care for Afro hair. Always pick an established brand that provides a good range of relaxers as well shampoos, conditioners, custom blend treatments, styling and care products, and which is committed to research and development. We chose the Mizani range from the L’Oreal Professional Products Division because it is specifically designed to care for Afro, mixed-race and excessively curly hair and is salon-exclusive. Stocking a premium line makes the products aspirational, giving the salon a unique selling point, which helps attract clients and increase retail sales. www.nhf.info
4 Make training
a priority
Training provides the skills and understanding to help your business thrive, therefore make Afro education a priority. A good manufacturer will send an expert to provide intensive product training and offer external courses on technical services such as relaxing, too. Appoint a product ambassador as the ultimate Afro specialist in your team. Such a specialist can monitor market and product developments, organise workshops and transfer their knowledge to the team to keep everyone well informed.
All images from L’Oreal Professional Products Division’s Mizani Collection
Simon RusseLl-Roberts
5 Market your service
Finally, there is little point offering Afro services if nobody knows they are available, so it is important to promote yourself. Use brands that offer regional PR support to raise local awareness. There is also plenty you can do yourself. Use point of sale materials and display them prominently to attract passers by. Do not forget to inform your clients because their friends or family might have curly hair and could be interested in your new services, too. You will widen your target audience and provide a welcome boost to your bottom line if you can build up a great reputation in your area for catering for this hair type.
Market facts
• Ethnic hair and beauty market worth about £72.5m in 2005 • London has about 80% of the market • More than 2000 African Caribbean salons in London • More than 300 Chinese salons in London Source: Salon Strategies
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009 SALONFOCUS PAGE 29
GREEN
FIELDS
Salon owners can more easily help the environment if they become well informed about eco-jargon. Daniel Field helps you cut through the Green maze in the last of his current series Recycled
Some products can easily be recycled such as PET plastic bottles, glass aluminium cans and paper. Tissue products, such as toilet paper, however, cannot be recycled after use, which is why it is important to ensure that the products you buy contain a high level of content that has already been recycled.
Recyclable
Materials that can be reprocessed instead of disposed of as waste. Products you buy should be genuinely recycled in your local scheme. It is no good buying something that could be recycled but in reality is not because it will end up buried at the landfill site.
Biodegradable
Living organisms can break these products down into inorganic compounds. Bacteria can break down many salon products quickly and harmlessly but not all. Be aware how readily and harmlessly everything you pour down the sink biodegrades.
Biodiversity
Do not use too much of any one substance because this creates overuse of natural growing resources. We should use natural resources in balance to maintain natural diversity.
PAGE 30 SALONFOCUS NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009
Fossil fuels
These include coal, oil and gas. Burning these cause global warming and acid rain. They will all eventually run out. Salons should buy their fuel from schemes that add energy to the national grid from sustainable non-fossil fuel resources.
Emissions
Kerbside recycling schemes
Gasses and chemicals capable of disrupting the delicate balance of nature. Some are natural and others are man-made and are often manufacturingprocess waste.
Carbon offsetting
Carbon offsetting is a process by which carbon polluters pay for trees to be planted to offset the effect they have on raised carbon emissions.
Ethical banking
This is banking with companies that do not contribute to environmental pollution, health and safety hazards, arms trade or oppressive regimes.
Daniel Field is the co-founder and former chairman of Ark Environmental Foundation. He is considered the pioneer of Organic and Mineral Hairdressing and he launched a national range of hair care products with Boots. His time is split between his laboratory work and his hairdressing and he can still be found in his eponymous Barnet, north London salon.
Global warming and greenhouse gasses
Certain gasses are capable of thinning the ozone layer that covers the earth, allowing rays from the sun to get through but not then escape – also known as the greenhouse effect. This raises the temperature rather like a greenhouse. The use of fossil fuels and other industrial processes lead to a build-up of greenhouse gases. Avoid aerosols that use propellants such as carbon dioxide, methane or nitrous oxide. Chlorofluorocarbons (CFC’s) have been banned from aerosols.
This is where people separate their recyclable waste for collection. Check out what is going on in your area but do not drive miles to find a recycling scheme because this wastes energy in excess of the resources recycling saves.
Landfill
A hole in the ground for rubbish. Releases of leachate and methane must be managed for up to 20 years afterwards. Salons should try to use and sell products that do not require this form of waste disposal.
Renewable resources
Natural resources and anything that grows in it. The supply can essentially never be exhausted if protected by man, usually because it is continuously produced by nature. An example is paper from trees.
Acid rain
Rainfall with a pH of less than seven.
Sustainability
Salons should buy renewable products made from renewable materials if we are not going to run short in time or damage the planet so badly we cannot survive here any longer.
Don’t be mean,
keep them keen
How do you persuade clients to keep returning for more beauty treatments? Angela Bartlett offers her tips
One way of keeping your customers is to lock them in. Another is to supply a free ball and chain with every treatment. I prefer to choose subtler methods and I suggest you do, too. It makes sense to be aware that it is more expensive to acquire new business than to retain existing customers in this economic climate.
Retention rate
Count the number of new clients who attended your beauty section in January and then how many of those returned in February for further treatments. Divide the February number by the January number and then multiply by 100 to work out the client retention percentage. You should aim for at least 70%. Find out the retention rate for longer periods Angela Bartlett is chairman of the in the same way. For example, using January British Association and June numbers will give you the retenof Beauty Therapy tion percentage over six months. & Cosmetology and You can complete this calculation for the Confederation of International the entire beauty section or for individual Beauty Therapy therapists. & Cosmetology. Constant effort is needed to maintain your 70%-plus retention rate once it is achieved. Those whose retention rates fall short need to play detective work and discover why clients are not rebooking. It could be as simple as your therapists not offering a further booking on the day.
Survey
However, if all clients are offered a further appointment but few people are taking it up, a client survey that finds out what they want could provide some clues. This way you become client driven rather than delivering what you think clients want. Your survey could cover the range of treatments, opening times, parking, ambience and the skill and attitude of the therapists. You could train existing staff or hire in extra should your range of treatments fall short and you feel the demand is there for a specific service. Do not introduce treatments in which your therapists are not fully expert. It will not reflect well on the rest of your business. Aim for more transactions by informing clients about your services. A new client is often handed a treatment menu or price list on their first visit and it is
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taken for granted they understand everything. Therapists are often surprised to hear a client has gone elsewhere for a treatment only to find out they did not know you offered it.
Service
Some therapists never really grasp the dynamic of real client service. As long as they are doing a good job and are polite they feel they are doing enough to entice the client back. Your public needs to be happy with the service it is receiving. Excellent service goes beyond a quality treatment. It is to go the extra mile so they feel they are your only client and that they are valued. How you do this will depend on individual personalities. Most welcome a small treat sent on their birthday. Perhaps you can ask the reliable ones to test new products in return for a short paragraph or two on what they thought of it. They will usually tell their friends all about it.
Specialness
Creating this feeling of specialness comes from knowing your clients, so spend time doing so unobtrusively to find out what it is that they want from a beauty service. Ensure your contact between appointments is frequent if they want it whether it is in the form of e-mail to update them on special offers and new treatments or giving them the opportunity to contact you should they need any guidance. Advance-plan promotions so there is always something new and exciting happening. Whether it is a free mini-treatment or a demonstration from one of your suppliers, offer something special that shows your clients you are creative and open to new ideas, recognising the changing nature of the beauty marketplace. Make any quality control systems you have visible so they can see you have put in place measures to ensure they receive the best service and attention at each visit. Feedback slips that a client can complete about their visit should be available.
Competitive
Our industry will become competitive in ways that it has never been before as the financial pressure continues. Keep one step ahead of the game by finding out what your competition is doing and work out a strategy for doing it better, or differently. Client retention requires more than the obvious factors of doing our best work and building a good rapport. It includes being creative in your marketing approach and learning the difference between client relations and client service.
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009 SALONFOCUS PAGE 31
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PAGE 32 SALONFOCUS NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009
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NHF EVENTS OTHERS
EVENTS
Please send in your events to the NHF at enquiries@nhf.info by November 10 to appear in January/February, January 10 to appear in March/April and March 10 to appear in May/June. Updated events listed on www.nhf.info.
Not to be missed…
14 Nov Hair at the Wellcome Collection. The theme for
this free event is the art and science of hair and its connections to human culture. Presentations by barbers, beauticians, stylists, material scientists and artists, at the Materials Library, Euston Road, London, 7pm-10pm.
15 Nov Yorkshire Hairdressing Championships, Jumpin
Jaks Night Club, Halifax. Call Phillip Cooling 01924 493800. South of England Hairdressing Championships, hosted
by Solent branch. ContactJohn Light, day: 01794521849,
eve: 01794514513.
23 Nov British Hairdressing Awards
Grosvenor House Hotel, London. Call 020 8652 8845.
North East Area is holding a three-in-one jury study branch, and area meeting at the Marton Hotel and Country Club, Middlesbrough. ContractAvril Walker on 01642 591466.
30 Nov Bournemouth and Reading Branch presents Errol Douglas, at the Carrrington
House Hotel, Southbourne, Bournemouth, Tickets available from Lee Elliot,
2010 7 Feb North West Area presents the Red Rose Championships at
the Swallow Hotel, Samlesbury, Preston Contact June or Ken Taylor, on 01253 895711, ktnwnhf@gmail.com.
22 Feb North East Area business seminar at the Marton Hotel and Country Club, in Middlesbrough. Contact
18 April
27 Sept
Avril Walker, 01642 591466 for further details.
North East Area Competitions at the Marton
East Midlands Area has booked Patrick Cameron,
Hotel and Country Club, in Middlesbrough. Contact
Festival Hall, Kirkby in Ashfield. Call Ivan Blount,
Avril Walker, 01642 591466 for further details.
01773 745580.
21-22 March Blackpool International Hairdressing Championships, Wintergardens, Blackpool. Contact Dorothea English 01253 294760.
25 April Bournemouth and Reading branch competitions,
Carrington House Hotel, Southbourne, Bournemouth. Contact Lee Elliot, 023 80 644084.
3-4 October
16 May British Open Championships at Cardiff
City Stadium, home of Cardiff City Football Club and Cardiff Blues Rugby Club. Open to all hairdressers. A must of those interested in developing their creative career. NHF Inspire will be showcased throughout the day. Presentation awards for NHF Photographic Stylist of the Year. Call 0845 345 6500.
NHF AGM &Conference, Apex City Quay Hotel, Dundee, Scotland. Call 0845 345 8000
or 1234 831965.
6-8 Nov The World Hairdressing Championships, at Mondial Coiffure Beaute, Porte de Versailles, Paris. For further details call Stephanie Munno on 01234 834 381.
02380 644084, Sue Braybon 07878453435 and Glynis Elliot, 07519167361. Or visit
www.nhfbournemouth co.uk.
www.nhf.info
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009 SALONFOCUS PAGE 33
BACKWASH
Tree-hee
If you have stories for Backwash, send them to the editor at head office or e-mail to sfeditor@salonfocus.co.uk putting Editor Backwash in the subject line.
Putting up the Christmas decorations can be fraught with difficulties as SalonFocus columnist Nigel Sillis so eloquently describes on page 27. Several years ago he thought it would be a good idea to have Christmas lights on the trees outside the salon entrance. “Even though they were outside, they were covered by a canopy so the lights didn’t have to be weather proof,” he says. That was until a dog walked past and thought it would be fun to do what dogs do at trees and lampposts. All the fuses blew. Backwash understands that was the last time Sillis watched Lassie Come Home at Christmas.
Divine
All that
justice
It is difficult to find anything funny about the Lifestyle TV debacle that SalonFocus has covered so diligently in recent issues of the magazine. Lifestyle TV was wound up earlier this year leaving a trail of salon customer victims in its wake. But Backwash could not help but smile about a recent development at the Official Receiver
when the investigation into the company was transferred from Salford to an address in Blackpool. The Blackpool Official Receiver is based in Amy Johnson Way, the same road where Lifestyle TV was most recently registered. Fate has a sense of humour.
jazz
Bowlered
us over
The editor was staggered to receive an NHF certificate of membership dating back to about 1947 by Sue Bowler, of Bowlers Hair & Beauty,
from St Judes, Devon, who has featured in Backwash before in an article about the salon’s staunch loyalty. She found it when sorting through 93-year-old father-in-law Ernest’s papers when he went into a care home. It was signed on behalf of the National Executive Council by general secretary of the day, Taylor Briggs. If anyone remembers secretary general Briggs do get in touch. The editor would like to know more about him.
PAGE 34 SALONFOCUS NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009
Backwash is grateful to Sarah Dawes, salon director, of colour specialist jazzy d’s, of Thetford, Norfolk, who sent in a 20-strong photo-shoot taken earlier this year. The hair is by the jazzy d’s artistic team, the make-up by Julie Cox, of JC Beauty and Neil Bowler took the photos. Far too many to publish here but the editor loved ‘em all, Sarah, especially the young lady with the Chinese characters down her back! Keep them coming.
Great Scott
Scott Beszick Hairdressing has
given Backwash a glimpse of some of the latest photographic work created by its artistic team. The images were created by creative stylists Danielle Wright and Maxine Mitchell, who recently reached the northern regional finals of Wella Trend Vision 2009. Scott Beszick, who opened the salon in Pontefract three years ago, has worked with many celebrities including former East Ender Michelle Collins who often visits the salon for her all natural Lanza treatments.
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