salonfocus January/February 2019

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£3.50 The essential magazine for salon owners

January/February 2019

ICE GODDESS An image from ‘Colour Bomb’, a collection by Royston Blythe, and one of the winners of the 2018 NHF/NBF Photographic Stylist of the Year competition

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Rising wages and costs put industry under pressure

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Give your team the tools to support client health needs

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How to make sure new beauty services have maximum impact Jan/Feb 2019 | salonfocus


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• Fighting for you on key industry issues


Contents

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C O N T E N T S 6 NEWS Hair-only salons are in decline as the industry diversifies to embrace booming demand for beauty

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10 UNDER PRESSURE Hair and beauty businesses are being caught in a vicious circle of rising pay and prices but flat-lining income 14 GENERATION GAME A young person can bring bundles of energy to your business. But be clear on the law around employing them 16 DIGITAL SHIFT If your business is VAT-registered, you will need to be prepared for changes to how you record VAT from April 18 BUSINESS STARS The NHF’s 2018 Business Awards in November celebrated the very best in the industry

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20 VISUAL VERVE Check out a selection of the winning images from the 2018 NHF Photographic Stylist of the Year 22 HEALTH AND HAPPINESS Salons and barbershops can play an important role in supporting client health. But teams need proper training 28 FLEXIBLE FRIENDS Offering flexible working can be a win-win. Your staff get better work-life balance, you get better performance 30 MAKING GOOD If you handle a complaint well, you can turn an unhappy client into a loyal champion 32 NO SLEEPING BEAUTY Beauty is booming, but it is also fast-moving. This means it is vital to keep up to date with the latest services

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38 FIGHTING YOUR CORNER The NHF and the NBF campaign tirelessly on the issues that affect your businesses. Here is what we've been up to 39 EVENTS What to look out for in 2019, and a preview of the Blackpool Hairdressing Competitions in March

COVER IMAGE An image from “Colour Bomb”, a collection from Royston Blythe and the winning image from the Female Fashion Look (Professional Photography) category of the NHF's 2018 Photographic Stylist of the Year competition. Hair stylist – Nick Malenko, Royston Blythe Photographer – Richard Miles Model – Sienna. Make-up – Dani Turn to page 20 to see more winning images or check out the special supplement with this edition.

CONNECT WITH US AND HAVE YOUR COMMENTS AND TWEETS IN THE NEXT ISSUE OF SALONFOCUS Jan/Feb 2018 | salonfocus


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Welcome

PR ESIDEN T’S

L E T T E R T SALONFOCUS IS PUBLISHED BY: National Hairdressers’ Federation, One Abbey Court, Fraser Road, Priory Business Park, Bedford MK44 3WH t: +44 (0) 1234 831965 f: +44 (0) 1234 838875 e: sfenquiries@salonfocus.co.uk w: www.nhf.info PUBLISHER Hilary Hall e: hilary.hall@nhf.info EDITOR Nic Paton e: nic@cormorantmedia.co.uk PR, EVENTS AND SOCIAL MEDIA Kelly Sylvester t. +44 (0) 1234 831965 e. kelly.sylvester@nhf.info GRAPHIC DESIGNER Sacha Robinson-Forster Matrix Print Consultants Ltd t: +44 (0) 1536 527297 e: sacha@matrixprint.com

While every care is taken in compiling this issue of salonfocus including manuscripts and photographs submitted, we accept no responsibility for any losses or damage, whatever the cause. All information and prices contained in advertisements are accepted by the publishers in good faith as being correct at the time of going to press. Neither the advertisers nor the publishers accept any responsibility for any variations affecting price variations or availability after the publication has gone to press. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the permission of the publisher, to whom application must first be made. The views expressed by contributors to salonfocus are not necessarily those of the NHF, the publisher or its editor. © 2018 The National Hairdressers’ Federation. Material for consideration in this section of the magazine should be submitted via email or digital file transfer to the editor, salonfocus. Submissions should be made on the understanding that the National Hairdressers’ Federation has the right to use the material in any part of the magazine and any of its other publications, promotions or website, free from any copyright restrictions, or appearance fees other than the issue of artistic and photographic credits where applicable. Please include salon name, photographer and stylist.

salonfocus | Jan/Feb 2019

here are not many jobs where you can get so “up close and personal” with clients and which are so trusted as hairdressing, barbering or beauty.

We have the licence to touch a client’s hair, head and skin, to see parts of the body – notably the top and back of the head – that are almost impossible to see yourself. The relationships stylists and salons have with their clients can also be incredibly deep and trusting. In many towns and cities these days, the ABOUT AGNES idea of having a personal and ongoing Agnes Leonard is president of the NHF and NBF and a relationship with, say, your butcher, registered hairdresser. She has greengrocer, vicar, even your GP, has all but worked in the industry for 37 years and owns Croppers Hair Studio in disappeared. But it can still be there with Dundee, a busy, family-run salon successfully adapting to the fastyour stylist, therapist or barber. changing retail environment – As we show in this edition, that gives just, in fact, like many NHF members up and down our industry a unique opportunity when the country. it comes to helping clients with their health. Whether it is using our expertise to flag up changes on people’s skin that perhaps they should get checked out or being a sympathetic ear for anxieties or worries, we can often make a real difference. But, as business owners, we do need to tread carefully. This is because, of course, stylists, barbers and therapists are not doctors; it is not our job to “diagnose” people. That is why it is so important your team has the right knowledge, skills, and confidence – and the NHF/NBF’s resources can help. Nevertheless, as an industry, we truly can save lives, and that should be embraced.

AGNES LEONARD NHF/NBF president


MONDAY 4TH MARCH 2019 I 6.45pm TILL LATE GRANGE ST PAUL’S HOTEL, LONDON. EC4V 5AJ Join us for a night of inspiration, dinner and dancing. Supported by our industry’s finest, it promises to be an evening not to be missed.


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News

BRIAN HOLLANDS

HAIR SALONS EMBRACING BEAUTY TO SURVIVE rowing numbers of hair salons are diversifying into beauty as a way to survive on a tough high street, while standalone beauty salons and nail salons are also booming in popularity, a retail researcher has said.

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However, the impact of too many salons cluttering up high streets, rising costs and wages, and increases in business rates has also led to a decline in the number of hairdressing-only salons over the past year, the statistics from the Local Data Company have said. The Sitting Pretty report said, while there had been a gradual decline in the number of hair-only salons over the past three years, this trend had accelerated in the past 12 months. It reported a net decline of -217 units in the past 12 months, a sharp acceleration on the -252 three-year net change. By comparison, the number of beauty, nail and hair and beauty salons had risen both in the previous year and over the threeyear measure. CHASING ‘ADDED VALUE’ NHF/NBF chief executive Hilary Hall was interviewed on BBC Radio Four’s You and Yours programme. She said: “A few years ago around

salonfocus | Jan/Feb 2019

a third of our members offered hair and beauty whereas today it’s 44%, almost half of our membership which is one of the reasons why we’ve launched our new sister trade body, the National Beauty Federation. “It makes sense for hair salons to diversify and provide ‘added value’ services to time-poor clients who would pay extra for a manicure or a facial or having their eyebrows shaped when they’re already in the salon anyway for a hair colour. It’s all about understanding your market and what clients want and would be willing to pay for". The findings have come on the back of continued grim reading for the health of the high street. A report by consultancy PwC in November concluded around 14 shops are currently closing every day on UK high streets, with 2,692 shops shutting in the first half of 2018 compared with only 1,569 openings. Last summer, a major review of the UK retail landscape by former Wickes chief executive Bill Grimsey predicted the number of empty high street units could double in the next decade (salonfocus, News, September/October 2018). • Turn to page 32 to find out how to maximise the impact of new beauty treatments and services.

It is with sadness that the NHF announces that Brian Hollands, who pioneered the establishment of the Wahl haircare brand in the UK, died in October. Brian, 73, was responsible for establishing and developing Wahl in the UK and Europe, and was appointed to the role directly by Jack Wahl in 1987. He was made an NHF Companion of Honour in 2002 for his contribution to the craft of hairdressing. He served as managing director of the company until 2002 and subsequently as chairman until retiring in 2014. In a statement, Wahl said: “The Wahl family and its employees are extremely saddened by the loss of a true gentleman.”

HAIRCUTS4HOMELESS

‘X FACTOR’ BOOST

Haircuts4Homeless, the charity initiative founded by hairdresser Stewart Roberts, was celebrating after being featured in a National Lottery advertisement during the talent show The X Factor in November. Stewart launched the initiative in 2014, which offers free trims to those waiting for hot food and drinks. There are now 47 projects around the country. The scheme offers homeless people a chance "to interact but to also feel good about themselves,” said Stewart.


News

NBF LAUNCHES BEAUTY HEALTH AND SAFETY TOOLKIT Beauty salons can now get peace of mind through a new NBF beauty health and safety toolkit. The toolkit complements the NHF’s health and safety toolkit for hairdressing salons and barbershops. According to industry statistics for 2018, only florists have higher rates of work-related skin diseases than beauty therapists, with hairdressers and barbers coming a close third. The most common cause of injury in workplaces is slips, trips and falls – and beauty salons are no exception. The new toolkit contains: • The NBF’s new Guide to Health and Safety for Beauty Salons. • A template health and safety policy. • A suite of risk assessment documents. • Guidelines for workers. • A fire safety checklist. • A factsheet on qualifications and age restrictions. • A health and safety poster, which must be displayed by law, a first

aid kit, accident book and fire and first aid notices. The NBF has worked with Milton Keynes Council who have given the toolkit “assured advice” status. This means it is nationally recognised by all local authorities. NBF chief executive Hilary Hall said: “Paying attention to health and safety makes good business sense. If you have a member of staff who is absent from the workplace because of illness or injury which could have been prevented, this has a financial cost to your business as well as putting added pressure onto other team members.” The toolkit is available to Members for £80 plus £4.50 postage and packing and to non-members at £115 plus p&p. Smaller packs are also available for beauty salons which already have the poster, a first aid kit, accident book, fire and first aid notices. It can be ordered through the NHF’s website at nhf.info

SILK SUCCESS A huge well done to Silk Trends Hairdressing in Chingford, east London, which won Afro Hair Salon of the Year in the 2018 London Hair and Beauty Awards in October. The salon, owned by Ingrid Farrell (pictured right, with her daughter Dionne) has been running since 2007 and built its reputation on being the first Afro and European salon to open its door to all hair types in the east London area. “We’re so pleased,” said Ingrid. “We won Afro Hair Salon of the Year in the London

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PAYSLIP REFORM NHF and NBF Members are being reminded that the law around payslips will be changing from April. From 06 April, any business that pays workers through a payroll system will need to ensure all workers – employees, casual or temporary – are given a payslip on or before every payday. This can be written, printed or electronic. Payslips will need to show how the payment was calculated, the combined number of hours worked and itemise any different rates of pay. Businesses are being urged to check with their payroll provider that processes can be adjusted to collect and display the new information required and, if need be, that the format of payslips is adjusted so that they comply.

HONOUR FOR ANDREW COLLINGE

Hair and Beauty awards in 2016, so to have won it a second time is a real achievement. “We’ve also in the past three years begun to offer Afro/

European hair training to colleges, salons and students from both England and overseas. So we’ve been going from strength to strength. We’re over the moon,” she said.

Congratulations to Andrew Collinge Hairdressing, which has received royal recognition for its commitment to learning and development. The hairdressing group has received a Princess Royal Training Award, the first Merseyside company and the first hairdressing group to be recognised in this way. The award was made because of the salon chain’s commitment to the training and upskilling of its workforce, including its innovative “Andrew Collinge Graduates” training programme. Andrew personally received the award from HRH Princess Anne at an awards ceremony at St James’s Palace, London, in October. Andrew said he had felt “great pride” to receive the honour.

Jan/Feb 2019 | salonfocus


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News

COST OF APPRENTICES SET TO DROP alons thinking of taking on an apprentice can look forward to two positive changes, thanks to changes announced in the Budget in October.

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First, from this month (January), changes to the funding bands mean the cash contribution expected to be paid by employers of apprentices on the hair professional “trailblazer” standards will go down from £900 to £700. Then, from April, this will reduce still further for new starters – to £350 – as the mandatory cash contribution for new starters is being reduced from 10% to 5%. As NHF and NBF chief executive Hilary Hall explained: “Salons with fewer than 50 employees who take on 16-18-year-olds (or 19-24-yearolds who have been in care or who

have a local authority care plan) will continue to pay nothing towards the cost of apprenticeships and be able to apply for an incentive payment of £1,000 to support additional costs. “But if you’re thinking of taking on an older apprentice (19+), waiting until April will save you at least £350 per apprentice.” In other good news for the industry, the new Level 2 “trailblazer” beauty therapy apprentice standards and assessment plan finally in October received the green light from the government for use in England. The new standards are designed to make apprentices more “salon ready” when they finish their training. Hair professional “trailblazer” standards have already been approved and are up and running. The new nail services technician and beauty and make-up consultant standards are approved and awaiting

‘SCRAP APPRENTICE WAGE’, SAY MPS An influential body of MPs has called for the apprentice minimum wage to be scrapped, and for apprentices simply to be paid at their age-related National Minimum Wage rate. Currently apprentices can be paid at a lower rate of £3.70 an hour if they are aged under 19 or, regardless of their age, during the first year of their training. However, the complexity of managing this for many small businesses, with apprentices potentially having to be moved to a different rate in their second year, has often been blamed for high rates of minimum wage non-compliance, especially within hairdressing. A report by the House of Commons Education Select Committee in October recommended that the apprentice rate should therefore continue to be increased at aboveinflation rates, with a long-term aim of scrapping it altogether.

salonfocus | Jan/Feb 2019

This would mean all apprentices would be paid at their age-related rate, not the apprenticeship rate. NHF chief executive Hilary Hall said scrapping the rate would have “a massive impact” on the hairdressing industry, which is one of the biggest employers of apprentices. “If the apprenticeship rate was scrapped altogether, apprentices would become unaffordable, while the competition for qualified and experienced hairdressers would further intensify. We know that salons up and down the country already struggle to recruit good staff.” The apprentice minimum wage will be rising by 5.4% from April, from £3.70 an hour to £3.90, the chancellor announced in his Budget in October.

• Full new minimum wage rates from

April can be found on page 13.

publication by the Institute for Apprenticeships The £350 employer contribution for 19+ new starters will also apply to the beauty therapy standard from April. Diane Hey, the employer champion of the Trailblazer Steering Group for beauty professionals, said: “The beauty therapist apprenticeship will provide apprentices with the right skills, knowledge and behaviours to work within the beauty therapy sector at Level 2 and will set a great foundation for professional development.”

YOUNG UP FOR BEAUTY TREATMENTS Nearly two-thirds (62%) of “millennials” and “Generation Z” (or those aged 18–34) are thinking about undergoing a non-surgical aesthetic beauty treatment in the next 12 months, according to a survey by online marketplace RealSelf. This is compared to just over a quarter (28%) of those aged more than 35. The 18-34 age group were also more likely to have had either a non-surgical or surgical cosmetic treatment in the past (40%) compared to their older counterparts (14%). Top treatments being considered were cosmetic dentistry (43%), followed by laser hair removal (29%), facial skin treatments such as microneedling (28%), dermal fillers (24%) and Botox (18%).


News

11,800 FOLLOWERS

‘EXPECT PLASTICS BAN IN 2019’, SALONS TOLD

13,490

3420

FOLLOWERS

FOLLOWERS

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WHAT’S TRENDING TWEETS AND POSTS FROM AROUND THE NHF

CODE Hair Consultants

Hair and beauty salons should start preparing for a ban on selling or distributing plastic-stemmed cotton buds, plastic straws and plastic stirrers in England from October. The NHF/NBF has warned Members a ban could be on the cards from the autumn following the launch by the government of a consultation. The move by ministers is part of a 25-year “Environment Plan” designed to reduce avoidable plastic waste, especially single-use items. Plastic-stemmed cotton buds are in the top 10 of most common marine litter items washed up on our beaches. As well as having plastic stems, most cotton buds use a plasticbased adhesive to keep the cotton tips in place. NBF chief executive Hilary Hall said: “Beauty salons value the low cost and convenience of using plastic-stemmed cotton buds for treatments such as eyelash tinting. “The problems of public pollution are now much better understood so we expect environmentally aware beauty salons will have already started switching to cotton buds with paper stems and plastic-free adhesive. “This will happen more quickly, ahead of the proposed ban, if supplies are readily available from manufacturers and wholesalers and at an affordable price.”

OMG we have WON.... BEST INDEPENDENT hair salon in the country As recognised by the National Hairdressers Federation we are elated!! To be up against the best in our industry!!! Thank you so much to everyone that supports and believes in us!! We are truly so shocked to be awarded this!!!my amazing team I am so proud of you!!! CODE HAIR CONSULTANTS

christianwilesmen A fantastic evening @nhfederation Awards and great to catch up with the awesome @annevecksalons & @hellenward and all the team at #NHF

karoliinasaundershd AND THE WINNER OF NHF BRITAINS BEST female fashion look 2018 is ... Lauren Soley!! And We are so proud. Congratulations Lauren, you smashed it!! Thank you to this fab Model Georgina @georgina_kshd Also Thank you to our team behind the scenes. Styling @bernardstylist and makeup @jo_sugar

JOIN IN THE CONVERSATION @nhfederation

@NHFederation

facebook.com/national hairdressersfederation

Jan/Feb 2019 | salonfocus


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The NHF/NBF 2018 Wages Survey

UNDER PRESSURE HAIR AND BEAUTY BUSINESSES ARE CAUGHT IN A VICIOUS CIRCLE, THE NHF/NBF’S LATEST WAGES SURVEY HAS FOUND. ON THE ONE HAND, STAFF SHORTAGES MEANS DEMANDS FOR MORE PAY. ON THE OTHER, COSTS ARE RISING WHILE PRICES AND INCOME ARE FLAT-LINING.

any hair and beauty salon and barbershop owners are increasingly finding themselves caught between a rock and a hard place when it comes to pay and wages, the latest NHF/NBF survey has concluded.

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Staff are becoming harder to find, recruit and hang on to, meaning there is constant pressure to pay

salonfocus | Jan/Feb 2019

more and recognise hard-working and valued team members. The National Minimum Wage and National Living Wage keep rising, and will be going up again this April. Yet, at the same time, costs are increasing, including business rates, utility bills, and pensions. Competition remains fierce, meaning owners are fearful about putting their prices up, so income and turnover has remained relatively

flat, in turn making it even harder to meet or absorb the growing financial demands they face. The NHF/NBF last autumn surveyed nearly 700 people, nearly two-thirds of whom (62%) were NHF Members and almost threequarters (73%) salon owners. The rest were individual employees, salon managers, self-employed chair or room renters, freelancers or educators So, what did it find?


The NHF/NBF 2018 Wages Survey

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WHAT HAPPENED WITH WAGES OVER THE LAST YEAR?

Jan/Feb 2019 | salonfocus


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The NHF/NBF 2018 Wages Survey

WHAT WILL HAPPEN WITH WAGES NEXT YEAR?

BONUSES AND COMISSIONS

Most salons (43%) reported that in the last year wages had gone up a little, in line with inflation. Most owners (53%) expected this picture would be similar this year, with wages rising in line with inflation. Employees, however, were generally more pessimistic, with more than half (51%) expecting their wages would stay unchanged during the year. When it came to what salons most commonly paid team members, most were paid at National Minimum Wage at the age-related rate for more junior staff, or National Living Wage for over-25s. Only experienced staff and managers by and large achieved rates of £10 per hour or more. The most common working week for fulltime employees was 40 hours.

salonfocus | Jan/Feb 2019

“COMMISSION RATES AND SALARY STRUCTURES ARE THE MOST COMMON QUESTIONS I GET FROM SALON OWNERS. IT’S CRITICAL TO ENSURE EMPLOYEES HAVE AN INCENTIVE TO PERFORM AND IT NEEDN’T BE COMPLICATED.” HELLEN WARD, THE NBF’S 2018/19 BEAUTY AMBASSADOR

More than three quarters (77%) of the employers surveyed paid bonuses or commissions. It was clear that coming up with an effective wages and commission structure was a struggle for many salon owners, yet also a key part of recruiting and retaining good staff. As one employer put it: “I don’t know if I’m paying too much including commission on top of just above the National Minimum Wage and I’m making annual salary offers to my staff as though it was a corporate industry. I’m doing step increases in salary nearly every quarter plus giving 10% commission on every single retail sale and of course treatments.” Another said: “We struggled with setting the right commission level, making sure our stylists were earning a decent wage but also making sure the business was healthy.” Nevertheless, in many cases employees felt their commission structure was not working in their favour. As one said: “Wages have increased due to the National Minimum Wage, but targets went up significantly at the same time, so noone hits targets now and I’m worse off financially.”


The NHF/NBF 2018 Wages Survey

ABSORBING COSTS AND PAY RISES

Salon owners generally reported that wages and pay remain a big problem in the industry, especially as many businesses are struggling with recruiting. As one owner commented: “Our industry needs to start paying staff what they’re worth. We find it challenging to recruit new staff and salary is quite often the issue.” But many salon owners made comments similar to this one about the affordability of wage rises: “If we put up charges, we lose customers, which then results in a reduction in hours or redundancies. Pressure comes on the business through increased business rates, higher utility charges, minimum wage and pension costs. It is only a matter of time before we will need to take action.” Another typical response was: “We find we cannot keep up with the wages bill due to it rising quicker than you can increase your prices, especially if you’re VAT registered. We are now working for far less than we used to just to keep the salon going and to try to keep the staff happy. Staff wages went up, mine stayed the same.”

dissatisfaction from employees about wages, particularly from people working in beauty or nail services. As one said: “Great therapists leave the industry all the time because they just can’t afford to live on these wages. I was actually a manager of two salons and was on £8 per hour which was in fact an insult.” “I work in a salon inside a golf club and I get paid the same as our receptionist and people serving tables in the club. I work hard and paid for my training. There should be a pay difference for people doing our job,” said another. JOB SATISFACTION

Yet, more positively, it was clear that employers, managers and employees love being in the industry and get a lot out of making clients feel and look great. Teams are often very close-knit, with strong and positive relationships and a happy environment. Comments included: “I just love my job”. Or, in terms of what made them happy: “Having a laugh and a joke with my clients. Feeling like I am meeting my friends, not clients, and not having to work too hard any more but still enjoying what I do.”

EMPLOYEE DISSATISFACTION

Despite this, there was also real

MINIMUM WAGE RISES MEAN YOU CAN PUT YOUR PRICES UP April is a good time to increase your prices because you can explain to clients that the rises are due to rises to the National Living Wage/ National Minimum Wage increases which have to be covered by price rises.

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“HAIRDRESSING NEEDS TO IMPROVE PAY AND CONDITIONS IF IT IS TO COMPETE SUCCESSFULLY WITH OTHER CREATIVE INDUSTRIES FOR YOUNG TALENT. AT THE MOMENT MANY QUALIFIED HAIRDRESSERS ARE PAID LESS THAN THEY SHOULD BE.” ANNE VECK, THE NHF’S 2018/19 HAIRDRESSING AMBASSADOR

HOW MINIMUM PAY RATES ARE CHANGING Current rate

April 2019

Increase

National Living Wage

£7.83

£8.21

4.9%

21-24

£7.38

£7.70

4.3%

18-20

£5.90

£6.15

4.2%

16-17

£4.20

£4.35

3.6%

Apprentice rate

£3.70

£3.90

5.4%

Accommodation offset

£7.00 per day

£7.55 per day

7.9%

Jan/Feb 2019 | salonfocus


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Employing young people

GENERATION

GAME

ARE YOU THINKING OF TAKING ON A YOUNG PERSON OR AN APPRENTICE? YOU’LL BE OFFERING SOMEONE A FANTASTIC OPPORTUNITY AND WILL ALSO BE ABLE TO GROW AND DEVELOP THE FUTURE TALENT OF YOUR BUSINESS. BUT MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHAT THE LAW SAYS ABOUT EMPLOYING YOUNG PEOPLE AND APPRENTICES.

salonfocus | Jan/Feb 2019

oung people can bring a wealth of energy, innovation and creativity to your salon or barbershop. You’ll have a lot to teach them, but you can learn a lot from them too. It should be a great experience for you both! However, if you’re planning to take on a youngster or committing to training an apprentice, you’ll need to understand what’s involved.

Y

ß CHILD, YOUNG PERSON OR APPRENTICE?

“The first thing to understand is that there is a difference between taking on a child, a young person or an


Employing young people

“Children can only be employed to do light work,” says Hilary, “and the hours and times they are allowed to work are restricted, for example, no more than 12 hours a week in term time.” FIND OUT MORE

NHF/NBF Members can download our detailed factsheet about all aspects of employing a child or young person, including restrictions, breaks, annual leave, contracts, health and safety, wages and work experience at nhf.info/employ-young-people ß EMPLOYING A YOUNG PERSON

A young person is defined as someone who is above school leaving age and under 18. “Young people can work up to a maximum of 40 hours a week and no more than eight hours a day,” says Hilary. “It’s also important to remember that in England only, a young person must be in part-time education or training until they are 18.” Young people must be paid the National Minimum Wage appropriate to their age (or the correct apprenticeship rate if they are an apprentice – see p13) and have to be paid through your PAYE system, explains Hilary.

Children cannot work full-time and the youngest age at which they can work part-time is 14 – unless your local authority allows 13-year-olds to work. Again, you will need to check.

FIND OUT MORE

Risk assessment templates are included in our health and safety toolkits for hairdressers, barbers and beauty salons. Members benefit from a discount. Find them at nhf.info/ H&Skit or nhf.info/beautyH&Skit ß TAKING ON AN APPRENTICE

ß HEALTH AND SAFETY

Special steps should be taken to protect children and young people in the workplace. Children must not do any job that may harm their health or wellbeing. For example, those

FIND OUT MORE NHF/NBF Members can download our expert Guide to Apprenticeships at nhf.info/apprenticeship

Find out more about National Minimum Wage and apprenticeship rates at nhf.info/national-minimumwage

ß EMPLOYING A CHILD

under 16 must not apply or rinse off permanent hair colour. “You must carry out a risk assessment before employing a child and give their parents or carers detailed information about the risks involved and the steps you will take to protect the child,” says Hilary. “A risk assessment must also be carried out if you take on a young person, in particular to take into account their inexperience, lack of risk awareness and immaturity.”

“Anyone over the age of 16 can become an apprentice,” says Hilary, “although in some cases there is an upper age limit. “What you can offer depends on where you are in the UK, but some basics apply across the board. For example, you must pay your apprentice the correct apprenticeship rate or age-related National Minimum Wage/National Living Wage and take steps to ensure their health and safety in the workplace. “In addition, you must have a signed agreement and a signed commitment statement setting out how you and the training provider will work towards a successful outcome for your apprentice,” she adds.

FIND OUT MORE

apprentice,” explains NHF/NBF chief executive Hilary Hall. “Generally speaking, the law says a child is someone under the minimum school leaving age. This is different depending on whether you’re in England and Wales, or Scotland or Northern Ireland, so do check the minimum school leaving age in your region.”

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GET IN TOUCH Contact our friendly membership team for more information and advice about employing children and young people on

01234 831965. Members can download free contracts and apprenticeship agreements/ deeds at nhf.info/contracts

Jan/Feb 2019 | salonfocus


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Making Tax Digital

DIGITAL SHIFT IF YOUR BUSINESS IS VAT-REGISTERED, YOU WILL NEED TO BE PREPARED FOR CHANGES TO HOW YOU RECORD VAT FROM APRIL.

pril is a new financial and tax year, and this year there will be big changes for VAT-registered salons or barbershops on how they record and manage their VAT.

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Under the government’s Making Tax Digital initiative (MTD), which is working to make the nation’s tax affairs less paper-based, businesses operating above the current £85,000 turnover threshold for VAT will from April need to be recording as well as reporting their VAT digitally. This will include self-employed chair or room renters. Not only that, businesses will need to ensure they are providing their VAT return information to HMRC through MTD-compatible software. Businesses with a turnover below the threshold but which have

salonfocus | Jan/Feb 2019

registered voluntarily for VAT will not have to make this change quite yet, although it is expected they will do so from 2020. HMRC will not be developing its own in-house software for this, and so businesses will have to use commercial accounting software to make this transition. HMRC has published guidance on which providers offer MTDcompatible software, although it has emphasised this is likely to be regularly updated and added to in the run-up to April. The guidance can be found at gov.uk/guidance/software-forsending-income-tax-updates The best practical advice for salon and barbershop owners is to speak to their accountant or bookkeeper, if they use one, about the software they use, whether it is MTD-

compatible and what they need to be putting in place or changing between now and April. ß CHECK YOUR SOFTWARE

For businesses that do not use an accountant or bookkeeper, it is likely to be a case of checking with their accounting software provider if, again, it is MTD-compatible or in the process of becoming so. The biggest change is likely to be for businesses that currently simply log in and type their VAT figures directly on to HMRC’s website. If you do this, you will need to buy or move to a separate MTDcompatible accounting software package that can upload the relevant information to HMRC’s system. However, the government has argued that, for most VAT-registered businesses, the change from April


Understanding chair or room renting

should not be a radical departure. This is because paper-based VAT returns were gradually phased out from 2010 and therefore the VAT process is already partially digital. ß WIDER CHANGES TO COME

More widely, this change is another step towards a much bigger transformation of the UK’s tax system, namely shifting National Insurance (NI), income and corporation tax to the same digital recording and, possibly, quarterlyreporting structure. Under its original plans for Making Tax Digital (salonfocus, July/August 2016), the government intended that by summer 2018 most businesses would be sending HMRC quarterly digital “updates” of their income tax and NI obligations. This was due to be followed by the same change for

corporation tax from 2020. But concerns about the cost and admin upheaval of this change, especially to small and micro businesses, and the suspicion that “updates” were little more than the introduction of mandatory quarterly tax returns by the back door (even though this was denied by the Treasury) led the government to backtrack. The Making Tax Digital changes for income tax and corporation tax are therefore still expected to happen at some point, but not before April 2020 at the earliest, the government has now said.

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IF NOTHING ELSE READ THIS • From April VATregistered businesses with turnover above the £85,000 threshold will need to record as well as pay their VAT digitally • This could mean having to migrate to, or buy, new Making Tax Digitalcompatible software • Speak to your accountant or software provider about the transition and how to prepare for it

Jan/Feb 2019 | salonfocus


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The 2018 NHF Business Awards

BUSINESS

STARS

THE NHF’S 2018 BUSINESS AWARDS IN NOVEMBER CELEBRATED THE VERY BEST HAIR, BEAUTY AND BARBERING BUSINESSES, AND WAS A NIGHT TO REMEMBER. ell done to all our 2018 NHF Business Awards finalists and winners!

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Hair, beauty and barbering businesses from across the UK gathered at the Hilton Manchester Deansgate in November for a glittering evening to celebrate the very best businesses in the industry. The winners of the 2018 Business Awards categories were:

• Best independent hair or beauty

salon – CODE Hair Consultants. • Best barbering business – The Master Barber’s Shop. • Best new business (winner) – H & Co. Hair Salon. • Best new business (highly commended) – VL Aesthetics. • Best client experience – Melissa Timperley Salons. • Best community support – House of Hair. • Best apprentice – Nathan Klein, Shine Hair Ltd. • Best front of house – Richard Wallace Hair. • Best innovation – eBlade Scissors. The NHF Business Awards were launched in 2017 as part of the NHF’s 75th anniversary celebrations and, as NHF President Agnes Leonard pointed out, are going from strength

to strength. “The calibre of entries we received this year exceeded all our expectations, so we can’t wait to see what the entries will bring for next year’s awards ceremony, which will be held in London!” she said. The night also saw the winners of 2018’s NHF Photographic Stylist of the Year competition announced. Turn over to page 20 to find out who won and a selection of their winning images. For a full run-down of what was a fabulous night, check out the special 2018 competitions and awards supplement included within this edition of salonfocus. You can also go online to nhf.info/nhfbusinessawards But, as a taster, here are some images from a night definitely to remember.

THANK YOU TO ALL OUR SPONSORS

The 2018 NHF Business Awards could only happen with the generous support of all our sponsors. So, a big thank you to all for your continuing commitment to the awards and the NHF.

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The 2018 NHF Business Awards

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The NHF/NBF 2018 Photographic Stylist of the Year competition

VISUAL VERVE THE WINNERS OF THE 2018 NHF PHOTOGRAPHIC STYLIST OF THE YEAR COMPETITION WERE ALSO ANNOUNCED AT THE NHF BUSINESS AWARDS IN NOVEMBER. HERE IS A SELECTION OF THEIR WINNING IMAGES.

THE 2018 WINNERS

FEMALE FASHION LOOK – OPEN TO ALL (NON-PROFESSIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY)

MALE FASHION LOOK – OPEN TO ALL (NON-PROFESSIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY)

BEN MADLE, HEADHUNTERS

EMMA SIMMONS, SALON54

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION ON THE PHOTOGRAPHIC STYLIST OF THE YEAR COMPETITION VISIT NHF.INFO/PHOTOGRAPHIC salonfocus | Jan/Feb 2019


The NHF/NBF 2018 Photographic Stylist of the Year competition

FEMALE FASHION LOOK – (PROFESSIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY)

MALE FASHION LOOK – (PROFESSIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY)

ROYSTON BLYTHE, ROYSTON BLYTHE HAIRDRESSERS

AIMEE MCPHERSON, HIDDEN HEIGHTS, CREATIVE STUDIO

FEMALE FASHION LOOK COLLECTION – (PROFESSIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY)

MALE FASHION LOOK COLLECTION – (PROFESSIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY)

NICK MALENKO, ROYSTON BLYTHE HAIRDRESSERS

JAMES BEAUMONT, ALLURE HAIR & BEAUTY

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Supporting client health

HEALTH AND

HAPPINESS

WHETHER IT IS FLAGGING UP CHANGES THAT COULD BE A WARNING SIGN OF SKIN CANCER OR OTHER HEALTH CONDITIONS, OR BEING A SYMPATHETIC EAR FOR WORRIES OR ANXIETIES, SALONS AND BARBERSHOPS CAN PLAY AN IMPORTANT ROLE IN SUPPORTING CLIENT HEALTH. BUT IT IS IMPORTANT TEAMS HAVE THE RIGHT TOOLS AND TRAINING.

ore than two-fifths of people (42%) don’t know the warning signs for skin cancer on their body, and nearly a quarter admit they’ve never even bothered to check.

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Stress, depression and anxiety, meanwhile, costs the UK as much as £99bn a year, with the average person taking nearly 26 days off work each year because of feeling unable to cope. The government in October even appointed a minister


Supporting client health

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for suicide prevention in England for the first time. What do these statistics (and see our facts and figures panel on page 27 for more of them) have to do with hair and beauty salons and barbershops? Well, stylists, barbers and beauty therapists could be on the front line when it comes to supporting and helping clients with their health. This can include spotting earlywarning signs of skin cancer and helping with other skin and hair conditions such as psoriasis and alopecia. Signs of diabetes, thyroid problems, or excessive drinking can also often be spotted by changes to people’s skin. RELATIONSHIP AND TRUST

The relationship and trust that often builds up between a client and their barber, stylist or beauty therapist can mean they are also well-placed to offer valuable support around mental health problems and anxieties. However, the challenge is that a stylist, barber or therapist isn’t a doctor or a nurse; no-one would expect them to “diagnose” a client. There is also the potential for difficult or even upsetting conversations. After all, clients have come to the salon for a bit of pampering and TLC – do they really want to be told that mole on the back of their neck could be cancerous? The key then for salon and barbershop owners is to give their teams the tools and the confidence to know what to look for or flag up and also how to handle situations and conversations that may arise as a result. The NHF offers valuable guidance (again, see page 27) about how to spot the signs of skin cancer and what to do next. But we also spoke to a leading barber, hair salon and cancer charity about what they do and advise.

THE BARBER ‘THE BIGGEST THING IS TO LISTEN WITHOUT JUDGEMENT; IT IS GIVING PEOPLE THE FREEDOM TO OPEN UP WITH SECURITY’

Founded by award-winning barber Tom Chapman (pictured above), The Lions Barber Collective is working to make barbershops secure and non-judgemental spaces in which men can open up about their private and personal issues in a non-clinical way, helping them to discuss issues around anxiety, mental ill health, depression and even suicide. His work, which is supported by the male grooming brand The Bluebeards Revenge, led to Tom being awarded a “Point of Light” community award by prime minister Theresa May in 2017. “The biggest thing is not to try to make your barber into a counsellor or doctor. Yet at the same time you can bridge a gap. The idea of the ‘family GP’ who you see all your life is long gone. People will see their barber more regularly than they do ‘their’ GP. We’ve found that up to half of men will talk to us about things they won’t to others. A barber also has a licence to touch

your hair, head and skin, to spend time with you in conversation,” explains Tom. “The biggest thing is to listen without judgement; it is giving people the freedom to open up with security, to know that the person listening is there for them and is not going to judge them,” he adds. ONLINE TRAINING

When it comes to tools and knowledge, Tom suggests using The Samaritans (samaritans.org), CALM (Campaign Against Living Miserably thecalmzone.net), Mind (mind.org.uk) and Hub of Hope (hubofhope.co.uk). The Lions Barber Collective is also developing its own resources, notably its #BarberTalk online training programme, thelionsbarbercollective. com/barbertalk “You get a certificate and a window sticker that puts you on the map. It is all free,” Tom points out. “We are also developing online support, an online community for barbers. “It is all about giving barbers a bit of help, educating them and giving them the confidence to look after clients. After all, without our clients, our industry would not exist,” Tom adds.

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Supporting client health

THE HAIR SALON ‘WE’VE BECOME KNOWN AS A SALON THAT IS MENTAL HEALTHAWARE; IT IS SOMETHING WE ADVERTISE AND PROMOTE. WE ASPIRE TO BEING A SAFE HAVEN.’

Winner of Best Independent Hair or Beauty Salon in the 2018 NHF Business Awards, CODE Hair Consultants in Lowestoft is also deeply committed to supporting client mental health and wellbeing, running a campaign called #cut out the stigma

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As owner Laura Bull (pictured above with her team) explains, it all started because she wanted to do more to support the emotional and mental health of her seven-strong team. “Some of the girls occasionally get anxiety or panic attacks, so I wanted to be able to help them to open up and talk. As well as simply being the right thing to do, if people are feeling mentally happy, it just makes for a better feeling in the salon.” Colour director Katie Scarfe went

on a two-day mental health first aider awareness training course delivered by the mental health charity Mind. “It was looking at everything, from mild mental health issues right through to really serious ones. You were told what to look for, how to spot the possible symptoms, and given tools to help. Katie then put together a PowerPoint presentation, which took a good two hours, and went through the whole process with us,” says Laura. “Clients tell you everything. If they


Supporting client health

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are telling us all these things, then it is because they feel confident about opening up to us. We’ve become known as a salon that is mental health-aware; it is something we advertise and promote. We’re not of course saying we want everyone with mental health issues to come to us. It is just that we aspire to being a safe haven. We now train other salons in mental health awareness. “We also have a separate room for people who want a private appointment, perhaps because they are anxious or, for example, for people or children who have autism. We have a distraction box, adult colouring books, Play-Doh, fidget spinners and things like that. Very quickly people started saying what an amazing idea it was,” adds Laura.

THE SKIN CANCER CHARITY ‘IF YOU HAVE THIS TRAINING YOU CAN POTENTIALLY SAVE SOMEONE FROM DISFIGUREMENT RIGHT THROUGH TO SAVING THEIR LIFE’

At the beginning of 2018 skin cancer charity Skcin (skcin.org), also known as the Karen Clifford Skin Cancer Charity, launched a skin cancer training programme specifically for hair and beauty salons and barbershops. The “MASCED” programme (masced.uk), short for Melanoma and Skin Cancer Early Detection, offers a two-hour online training course worth two CPD points along with a range of learning materials and resources you can take back to the salon. The programme, which costs just £20, has been endorsed by NHF/ NBF and Habia. “Our initial target was to engage 1,000 hair and beauty professionals in our first year. But we got that in the first few days and now around 10,000 people have been through the programme, so it has definitely exceeded our expectations and shows the appetite there is for this lifesaving training within the industry,” says MASCED campaign manager

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Supporting client health

Claire Dale. “It is very user-friendly and, once you’ve completed it, you can download a certificate that you can proudly display in your salon. “MASCED is designed to empower hairdressers, barbers and beauty therapists, giving them the confidence to be able to raise the conversation. Of course it is not about them ‘diagnosing’ cancer. But it is about giving them the skills and the knowledge about what to look for in terms of the different skin cancers and then how to raise it with the client," says Claire. GIVING CONFIDENCE

“Sometimes it is simply about making the client aware of it, as they may not have noticed or even be able to see the area you’re looking at. Perhaps, if the client wishes, you can take a photo of the area with their camera. Sometimes it’s just a question of flagging it up to the client as perhaps something they need to keep an eye on or get checked out by their GP. But the key is that the team member will be able to say ‘I’ve had special training in

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this area’ which will help in getting the message across," says Claire. “It is not about scaring people. But who else sees your scalp or the back of your neck regularly? There is a real opportunity here for salons and stylists to make a difference. Skin cancer is one of the few cancers that shows up externally – on the

skin. So, if you have this training you can potentially save someone from disfigurement right through to saving their life,” she adds.


Supporting client health

WHAT THE NHF/NBF ADVISES

Hairdressers, barbers and beauty therapists can play a key role in helping to spot the early signs of skin cancer. Most skin cancer is caused by ultraviolet (UV) light damaging DNA in skin cells. The main source of UV light is the sun, although the NHS warns that sunbed use can also increase risk. Client history can be another potential risk factor. Clients may be more prone to skin cancer if they: • Have lots of holidays in the sun. • Use sunbeds. • Have fairer skins and/or a large number of freckles. • Have bald patches or thinning hair. • Have fine or thinning hair. • Work outdoors. Key places to look for possible problems include: • The top of the head. • On and behind the ears. • The back of the neck and shoulders. • The face, nose and cheeks. It is important to be extra observant when checking areas that clients cannot easily see for themselves. However, do not ignore potential problems on more obvious areas of the skin. Sometimes changes caused by skin cancer can appear slowly and your client may not notice. WHAT TO DO NEXT

The NHF/NBF’s advice is that it is crucial to tell your client if you spot anything that may potentially be skin cancer. But, equally, don't alarm them; emphasise it may be nothing. Ask the client if they already know about it and always advise them to keep an eye on it. If you’re concerned, advise them to get it checked out by their GP to remove any doubt. To read this blog in full, go to nhf. info and then click on the tab “Advice”. Then click on “Blogs” followed by “Health and safety” and scroll down to article Spot signs of skin cancer on your salon or barbershop clients. MASCED, to recap, can be found at masced.uk

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FACTS AND FIGURES

TWO IN FIVE NUMBER OF BRITONS WHO HAVE NEVER CHECKED FOR COMMON CANCERS (INCLUDING SKIN), ACCORDING TO BUPA. NEARLY A QUARTER SPECIFICALLY ADMIT THEY HAVE NEVER CHECKED FOR SKIN CANCER, ACCORDING TO THE SKIN CHECKING APP MIISKIN.

42 % PERCENTAGE WHO SAY THEY ARE CONFUSED ABOUT WHAT TO CHECK FOR WHEN IT COMES TO COMMON CANCERS SUCH AS SKIN, BOWEL OR LUNG, ACCORDING TO BUPA.

140,000 NUMBER OF NON-MELANOMA SKIN CANCERS DIAGNOSED EVERY YEAR (WITH MOST FOUND ON SUNEXPOSED AREAS OF THE FACE, HEAD OR NECK), ACCORDING TO CANCER RESEARCH UK. AROUND 1,300 PEOPLE DIE EACH YEAR AS A RESULT, IT HAS ADDED.

3.7 MILLION NUMBER OF PEOPLE WITH DIABETES IN THE UK, UP FROM 1.9 MILLION SINCE 1998, ACCORDING TO DIABETES UK. THE NUMBER OF PEOPLE LIVING WITH TYPE 2 DIABETES, WHICH IS COMMONLY ASSOCIATED WITH UNHEALTHY LIFESTYLES AND OBESITY, HAS INCREASED BY ALMOST 100,000 SINCE 2017

£74-£99 BILLION COST OF STRESS, DEPRESSION AND ANXIETY TO THE UK EACH YEAR, ACCORDING TO THE GOVERNMENT’S 2017 THRIVING AT WORK REVIEW INTO MENTAL HEALTH AND EMPLOYERS. THE COST OF MENTAL HEALTH TO EMPLOYERS IS BETWEEN £33BN AND £42BN A YEAR, IT HAS ADDED.

15.4 ONE IN MILLION 54

NUMBER OF PEOPLE WHO WILL BE DIAGNOSED WITH A MELANOMA CANCER DURING THEIR LIFETIME .

ACCORDING TO THE HEALTH AND SAFETY EXECUTIVE, STRESS, DEPRESSION OR ANXIETY HAD ACCOUNTED FOR 15.4 MILLION LOST WORKING DAYS IN 2017/2018

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Flexible working

FLEXIBLE FRIENDS OFFERING FLEXIBLE WORKING IN YOUR SALON OR BARBERSHOP CAN BE A WIN-WIN. YOUR STAFF GAIN A BETTER WORK/LIFE BALANCE AND IN RETURN YOU BENEFIT FROM FEWER SICK DAYS AND INCREASED LOYALTY, MOTIVATION AND PERFORMANCE. s a business owner, the idea of allowing your team to work flexibly can feel a bit alien. You employ your team because you need them on the salon or barbershop floor during opening hours, right?

the law says about flexible working and what your responsibilities are.”

Yet, as NHF/NBF chief executive Hilary Hall explains, offering flexible working as an option can bring with it real benefits – to you as the business owner as well as your team. “If you want to keep your best staff and attract more high-calibre applicants, being able to offer flexible working is an increasingly important part of the mix,” she says. “At the very least, you need to understand what

Flexible working covers a wide range of working patterns, everything from job sharing and part-time working through to doing full-time hours but over fewer days, what is known as “compressed hours." “It can also mean working ‘annualised hours’,” explains Hilary. “This involves working a set number of hours over the year but at times agreed between you and your

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FIND OUT MORE

Our detailed Guide to Recruitment is available free to NHF/NBF Members, at nhf.info/recruitment-guide ß WHAT IS FLEXIBLE WORKING?

employee, for example, to cover busy periods. Starting earlier or working later are also potential options.” ß WHAT DOES THE LAW SAY?

If your employee has been working for you for more than 26 weeks, they have the legal right to request flexible working, explains Hilary. “However, in the interests of good working relationships, there’s nothing to stop you from considering a request at an earlier stage.” Strictly speaking, employees should only make one flexible working application in a year. “Again, you do not have to stick to this,” says Hilary. “You can consider a second application in the same year if you wish.”


Flexible working

ß HOW DO STAFF APPLY?

Your employee will usually fill out a form to explain the type of flexible working they would like to do and when they would like it to start. “They will also need to explain if they want to change the number of hours or days worked, how their proposals may affect colleagues and the business, and what steps can be taken to deal with this,” says Hilary. Your employee does not have to use a form. They can email or write a letter but must include all the required information. FIND OUT MORE

NHF/NBF Members can download our detailed factsheet about flexible working at nhf.info/flexibleworking – it includes a standard flexible working request form ß HOW TO RESPOND

You’ll have up to three months to deal with the request (or longer if you agree this with your employee).

“Most importantly, the law says you must deal with the request in a ‘reasonable manner’,” says Hilary. “If you don’t, you may end up facing an employment tribunal.” ß WHAT IS ‘A REASONABLE MANNER’?

“There are a number of ways to demonstrate you are dealing with the request in a reasonable manner,” explains Hilary. “For example, meet with your employee as soon as possible to discuss their request and make it clear that they can bring a work colleague with them if they wish. “You must also make sure you fairly assess the advantages and disadvantages of your employee’s proposals and tell them your decision as soon as possible." ß IF YOU AGREE …

If you agree to the proposals, let your employee know promptly and confirm everything in writing. “Don’t forget – if your employee

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will be working fewer hours or if other terms and conditions will change, you must update their employment contract no later than 28 days after the new flexible working arrangements are approved,” says Hilary. FIND OUT MORE

Free contracts and staff handbooks are available free of charge to NHF/ NBF Members, at nhf.info/contracts ß IF YOU WANT TO REFUSE …

The law says you must have a “good business reason” to refuse. For example, if it would be too costly or not work with the team. ß CAN MY EMPLOYEE APPEAL?

“Although there is no legal right of appeal, you can still offer an appeals process using your usual procedures for solving a workplace dispute,” says Hilary. “This will help to demonstrate that you are dealing with the request in a reasonable manner.”

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Handling complaints

MAKING

GOOD

IF YOU HANDLE A COMPLAINT WELL YOU MAY BE ABLE TO TURN THINGS AROUND AND TRANSFORM AN UNHAPPY CLIENT INTO A LOYAL CHAMPION FOR YOUR SALON OR BARBERSHOP. FIND OUT WHAT THE LAW SAYS ABOUT COMPLAINTS AND WHAT THE NHF/ NBF IS DOING TO SUPPORT MEMBERS.

o one likes getting a complaint. But, as NHF/ NBF chief executive Hilary Hall explains, knowing how to respond so that a drama doesn’t spiral into a full-blown crisis is absolutely key. In fact, handle it right, and you might even turn an unhappy, disgruntled client into your most positive champion.

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“To deal with complaints well you need to understand the law and be able to respond positively and calmly to an unhappy client,” says Hilary. “The Consumer Rights Act 2015 will apply when a client complains about a service you have provided.” WHAT DOES THE LAW SAY?

There are two basic rules, explains Hilary. “Firstly, if a service was not provided with reasonable care and skill or as agreed between you and your client, you must put things right. This must be done reasonably quickly and at your own cost. “However, if this isn’t practical for any reason, you should provide a full or partial refund within 14 days of agreeing to do so,” she adds.

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FIND OUT MORE

NHF/NBF Members can download our free, in-depth Guide to Handling Complaints at nhf.info/complaintsguide PERFECT YOUR PEOPLE SKILLS

“You’ll need to know the law, but you’ll also need to develop complainthandling skills,” advises Hilary. “Always stay calm, take your client somewhere private if possible, and assure them you want to do all you can to put things right. Listen carefully to what they have to say and don’t interrupt or disagree. “Remember: with a regular client your aim will be to keep them coming back and hopefully prevent them from posting negative reviews online,” she adds. Always ask the member of staff involved for their side of the story, but not as part of a ‘blame game’, advises Hilary. “After all, you want to keep your staff loyal and happy too. Everyone makes mistakes, so your overall goal will be to find out what happened, put things right, and learn lessons for the future.”

FIND OUT MORE

Find out how to handle online and telephone complaints and what to do when a client says they’re not happy go to nhf.info/resolve-complaints Our expert Guide to Managing Performance is also available free to NHF/NBF Members, at nhf.info/ performance COMPLAINTS FROM A NEW CLIENT

Complaints from new clients are always tricky, agrees Hilary. “There is always the suspicion that they are ‘trying it on’ to get a refund or a free service. If you’re sure there is nothing that needs putting right it may be best to cut your losses, offer a refund and politely advise the client to try elsewhere next time."


Handling complaints

COMPLAINT NOT SORTED?

The NHF/NBF has just launched a brand-new service to help members sort out disputes with their clients. “If you cannot agree with your client on how to solve the complaint, the law says you must tell your client how to find a certified alternative dispute resolution (ADR) provider,” says Hilary. “This can sound a bit daunting, which is why we’ve stepped in to make things simpler.” HAIR & BEAUTY MEDIATION

Hair & Beauty Mediation is operated by the NHF and the NBF to provide an ADR service exclusively for our Members. It costs a lot less than the fees charged by other ADR providers.

The NHF/NBF fees, for example, are £30 for Members and £12 for clients, including VAT. “Our ADR service will aim to resolve the dispute by coming up with a fair and reasonable solution which is acceptable to both you and your client,” explains Caroline Larissey, the NHF/ NBF’s quality and standards manager. “ADR reduces the need for costly and time-consuming legal action and also reduces negative online reviews by providing a more effective way for your client to complain,” she adds. “Unless you both accept the solution, it is not binding. However, it’s always best to try ADR before taking legal action as the courts look less favourably on cases where ADR has not been tried first,” says Caroline.

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As an additional benefit, Hair & Beauty Mediation will help to identify potential improvements for your salon or barbershop to increase client satisfaction and avoid complaints in the future. FIND OUT MORE

Find out more about the newly launched NHF/NBF Hair & Beauty Mediation Service at nhf.info/ complaints

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Introducing new beauty procedures

NO SLEEPING

BEAUTY BEAUTY IS BOOMING, BUT IT IS ALSO FAST MOVING. THIS MEANS IT IS VITAL TO KEEP UP TO DATE WITH DEMAND FOR THE LATEST SERVICES, PROCEDURES AND TREATMENTS. HERE ARE SOME OF THE IMPORTANT THINGS YOU NEED TO BE THINKING ABOUT.

s we highlight in the news pages of this edition, more and more hair salons are diversifying into beauty as a way to survive tough times, while standalone beauty and nail salons are a growing presence on our high streets.

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But beauty, as much as hair, is a fastmoving market. The beauty industry is constantly evolving, with new techniques and treatments coming in all the time. Clients, too, are increasingly aware and conscious of their appearance; not just women but men and young adults, too. The rise and importance of social media, with beauty bloggers and celebrities promoting beauty is also fuelling demand. But if you’re thinking about

introducing a new beauty procedure or treatment, how can you decide a) what is going to work for your salon, b) what is available, c) what is going to stack up financially and d) what skills, tools or qualifications your team will need? This article will help! WHY SHOULD I THINK ABOUT INTRODUCING NEW TREATMENTS?

A fundamental principle for any salon to be successful is that you


Introducing new beauty procedures

should be continually reviewing the services and treatments you provide to ensure you are meeting clients’ needs and expectations and maintaining a healthy profit. Within this it makes sense to look at how you can increase: • The number of clients. • The frequency of client visits. • Your average client spend. • Your prices. • Your special offers (such as buy one, get one free; two for one; his and her treatments and so on). It is also, of course, worth looking at what the competition in your area is offering and if you can match or compete with that or, better still, provide something extra or different.

WHAT DO I NEED TO BE THINKING ABOUT?

Introducing new treatments can be expensive, as it can mean purchasing new products, tools or equipment as well as investing in training of existing staff or even hiring new team members who specialise in this area. It is therefore essential you do your research to ensure what you are purchasing is fit for purpose, meets your insurance requirements and, critically, industry standards. Be aware, too, of the NBF’s recommended age restrictions on the

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treatments or procedures that beauty therapists can carry out (see table below.) If a team member is going to require extra training, ensure your training provider is reputable. Ideally any training will be underpinned by an accredited qualification from a recognised awarding organisation. If it is a course by a manufacturer, check it has accreditation from a sector-specific CPD approval organisation or is affiliated with a recognised industry organisation.

RECOMMENDED AGE RESTRICTIONS ON TREATMENTS Treatment

Minimum age of therapist

HOW CAN I FIND OUT WHAT IS NEW/AVAILABLE?

Botox or similar anti-wrinkle treatments

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Beyond just keeping abreast online or on social media, one of the best places to source new services/treatments or to find out new developments in technology, equipment and products is to visit a trade show, such as Professional Beauty. Such events can provide a wealth of opportunities to ask questions and test products, tools and equipment to see whether they are suitable for you and your client needs. Another option is to invite a sales representative into your salon so you can have more detailed discussions on the products/ tools equipment or training you are interested in.

Dermal fillers

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UV tanning

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Intimate waxing

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IPL (intense pulsed light) treatments

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Eyebrow / eyelash tints

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Micropigmentation

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Microblading

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Piercing earlobes, nose, navel, lip, tongue or the top of the cartilaginous portion of the ear

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DON’T FORGET • It is imperative that you should always follow any organisational, operations or industry requirements as well as any specific treatment protocols, manufacturer instructions and guidance. • It is vital that a beauty therapist has at least an NVQ Level 3 beauty qualification (general) or equivalent before undertaking any further training on advanced beauty therapy practices. • Check with your insurance provider that these additional services /treatments are included in your insurance policy. You may need to take out additional cover if you are offering advanced beauty treatments. • Coversure provides cover for hair salons, barbershop and beauty salons offering ‘standard’ treatments requiring qualifications up to and including level 3. Specialist cover is also available from them for advanced beauty treatments.

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Introducing new beauty procedures

WHAT QUALIFICATIONS DO I NEED FOR ADVANCED BEAUTY TREATMENTS?

There are a range of advanced beauty therapy practices and aesthetics treatments which require qualifications and/or training at Levels 4, 5 or 6 depending on how invasive the treatments are. These include: • Skin rejuvenation. Rejuvenation is a cosmetic treatment that aims to restore a youthful appearance. • Chemical peel. A chemical peel is a technique used to improve and smooth the texture of the skin. Facial skin is mostly treated, and scarring can be improved. • Microneedling. Microneedling or skin needling is a cosmetic procedure that involves repeatedly puncturing the skin with tiny, sterile needles. • Laser and IPL treatments (also known as LIPLED). Laser and intense

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pulsed light laser is a cosmetic treatment that can be used to treat sun damage, lines and wrinkles, and acne scars. • Micropigmentation. Micropigmentation is a cosmetic tattooing technique that provides a means of producing designs that resemble makeup, such as eyeliner and other permanent enhancing colours to the skin of the face, lips, and eyelids. • Microblading. Microblading is a form of cosmetic tattooing that allows you to create the appearance of realistic eyebrows. Tiny precision hair strokes are created by hand, using a microblade. • Electrical epilation. Electrical epilation is the permanent removal of unwanted hair. The heat dries up all the moisture, living cells and blood supply at the root of the hair, thus destroying it.

Looking at Level 6, the sort of courses and treatments you could consider introducing include: • Skin rejuvenation. • Chemical peel. • Microneedling. • Laser and IPL treatments/LIPLED. • Micropigmentation. • Botox or similar anti-wrinkle treatments. Botox or similar antiwrinkle treatments are treatments that can also be used to help relax facial muscles. They make lines and wrinkles, such as crow’s feet and frown lines, less obvious. They can temporarily alter your appearance without the need for surgery. • Dermal fillers. Injectable filler is a soft tissue filler injected into the skin to help fill in facial wrinkles, restoring a smoother appearance. Most of these wrinkle fillers are temporary because they are eventually absorbed by the body.


Introducing new beauty procedures

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TEN WAYS TO MAXIMISE NEW BEAUTY SERVICES REGULARLY REVIEWING AND REFRESHING THE SERVICES YOU OFFER IS THE KEY TO BUSINESS GROWTH AND LONGEVITY, ARGUES THE NBF’S BEAUTY AMBASSADOR HELLEN WARD. HERE ARE HER 10 TIPS FOR MAKING A SUCCESS OF INTRODUCING A NEW BEAUTY SERVICE.

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Keep it loyal. When thinking about introducing new beauty services, always speak to or survey your existing clients. They are the best audience to let you know whether they would utilise additional services, so let them help you make an educated decision on whether it would be worth the cost of education and additional equipment. Be clear on training costs. Cover yourself and your business by agreeing in advance with any team members who want to do additional training, that the cost of their training would have to be repaid if they leave within a certain period. Double up on training. Preferably, have at least two team members trained in any new services you are considering offering; cover yourself in case of team absence or in the event of someone leaving. Make sure you have the right licence. Check with your local council to make sure your existing licence covers you for any new services you wish to introduce. Focus on promoting areas of expertise. If you have more than one therapist, new services may be easier to market to your clientele if your team have their own specific areas of expertise. Concentrate on their strengths and grow them - this is a great approach for your clients and makes new services feel exclusive.

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Keep your team in the know. Make sure the entire team are aware of any new services that you are introducing for clients. Make your employees your “champions”. Let certain influential employees experience new services your salon or spa has to offer – this is a great and very natural way of marketing new services to your clients. Speculate to accumulate. Think about offering new services as a oneoff complimentary service for your top-spending clients. If the advice, protocol, treatment and result is on-point, clients will almost certainly re-book. Consider offering promotional packages. We don’t believe in discounts as a rule of thumb, but consider offering package deals, such as book a course of five and receive the sixth treatment free. This encourages spend and makes the client feel that they are getting great value for their money.

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Make it seamless and expert. All new services should be prescriptive, results-led and delivered by a well-informed, educated team professional. Clients need to know what they are experiencing and what the specific benefits are to them – team members therefore need to act like the experts they are.

Hellen Ward is the NHF’s 2018/19 Beauty Ambassador and director and co-founder of Richard Ward Hair and Metrospa. She has also been a leading figure in the development of new “trailblazer” apprenticeship standards within hair and beauty

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Introducing new beauty procedures

‘I ALWAYS EMBRACE “MISTAKES” AS OPPORTUNITIES TO LEARN AND TO GROW’ VANESSA BROWN IS OWNER AND MANAGING DIRECTOR OF VL AESTHETICS IN CARLISLE, WHERE SHE EMPLOYS A NUMBER OF QUALIFIED BEAUTY THERAPISTS. THE SALON OPENED A LITTLE OVER A YEAR AGO AND NOW TURNS OVER SOME £200,000 A YEAR.

I am only 23-years-old and I am not a trained beauty therapist. So how did I take the aesthetics business from zero to £200K turnover in a year? The path was not easy, and I didn’t want it to be easy. I always embrace “mistakes” as opportunities to learn and to grow. I was brought up with this mental attitude in my very much business-orientated family. When I was presented with the opportunity to start my own aesthetics and beauty business, I spent some time evaluating current trends in industry. If you, as a business, have been on the go for a while you probably agree that the beauty industry is changing quite significantly. These changes are driven by consumer behaviour

and changing consumer demand. I can talk about it for hours – but not in this article, as it is a whole subject of its own! However, the same principles apply if you’re looking to introduce a new treatment in the salon to keep yourself ahead of the competition. These are:

n Look at the trends. This should include what’s new in the market but also what may be waning in popularity. n Analyse how well this trend can perform in your geographic area. What can work well in London will not necessarily work well in, say, Carlisle. Use Google Analytics to find the total amount of searches for the treatment. n Analyse the competition. Find out who else in your area offers

this type of treatment. If other salons do, how are you going to stand out from the crowd? n Make a list of USPs. Competing on lower price is a road to disaster. I always opt for the advanced products and medically approved equipment backed up by white papers. n Don’t cut corners. If you opt for cheap equipment or a cheap brand, how can your salon be able to guarantee the best result? Never ask yourself, “why is it expensive?” ask instead “why is it cheap?”. n Be realistic about the cost involved and the likely return on investment. What is the required capital investment going to be versus the return? What is the right price to charge for this treatment? Will you

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The VL Aesthetics team and (top and bottom opposite) Vanessa's salon. Introducing a new beauty treatment or service is always going to take time, effort and investment. But get it right and it could take your salon to a new level.

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Introducing new beauty procedures

need to invest in staff training in order to offer this treatment? Don’t forget to include the cost of marketing within this, be it in-house (for example your mailing list or social media) or traditional (leafleting and local press, magazines, newspaper or even radio) n Getting the right qualified staff. Ensuring staff have the right underpinning knowledge skills, training and qualifications is vital to ensuring quality of services, initial and repeat business n Schedule a launch date. This will help to focus everyone’s mind and make it feel more real. But be realistic about what’s feasible. n Make a plan of action. This should include pre-marketing and creating anticipation and excitement among your clientele. Instruct your staff to talk to clients about the launch of the new treatment. n Launch! We aim to generate £10,000-£15,000 worth of business at any launch.

Trust me, there are tried and tested rules to any launch. But these are just a few tips that have helped me to get where I got in my first year of owning the business. It’s also a question of never taking your foot off the pedal. I’ll continue planning for success and taking actions and making decisions to make sure that my

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business doesn’t just survive but thrives. And success breeds success so that as a team we get intense satisfaction just from turning up at work every day; serving, growing and retaining our clientele by offering them the very best that beauty and aesthetics can offer.

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Campaigning for Members

FIGHTING YOUR

CORNER

THE NHF AND THE NBF CAMPAIGN TIRELESSLY ON THE ISSUES WHICH AFFECT MEMBERS AND THEIR BUSINESSES. HERE IS A ROUND-UP OF WHAT HAS BEEN GOING ON IN RECENT MONTHS.

s the hair and beauty industry’s biggest trade association, the NHF and NBF proactively speak up for Members and raise the concerns of our industry. Here is a snapshot of just some of the campaigning and lobbying work we got up to in the last six months.

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APPRENTICESHIPS, EDUCATION AND TRAINING

Andrew Collinge, added their voice by writing to local MPs. Kevin Huggins from Fusion Hair and Beauty in Great Yarmouth and Caroline Larissey, our quality and standards manager, also met with Anne Milton (all pictured, with Anne in the middle) to discuss the cuts as well as highlight the unaffordability of minimum wage rises and the need to be levelling the playing field between salons who employ staff and those who rely on self-employed workers. LOW PAY COMMISSION

We campaigned hard against a government decision to cut the funding for “Trailblazer” apprenticeship standards from £9,000 to £7,000 for the Level 2 hair professional standards from January. We wrote to education secretary Damian Hinds, apprenticeships minster Anne Milton and Robert Halfon, chair of the House of Commons Education Select Committee. NHF Members of the hair professional trailblazer steering group Wendy Cummins from Quiffys, Keith Mellen from Anne Veck Hair and

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Marc McCune from Eutopia in Glasgow and an NHF board member (pictured, right), came to a meeting with the Low Pay Commission with chief executive Hilary Hall to discuss our response to the commission’s annual consultation on future National Minimum Wage and National Living Wage rates. We made the industry’s case around concerns about the affordability of steep rises, especially increases to the apprenticeship rates.

HIGH STREETS

We met with civil servants in August to discuss our response to consultations on the higher street, VAT registration thresholds, and employment status, including highlighting the potential role that salons and barbershops can play as community “hubs”. We talked about all the fantastic entries for the NHF Business Awards Best Community Support category and highlighted how one Member, Martyn Maxey from Martyn Maxey Hairdressing in London, won 2017’s Best Community Support award for his work in setting up the HAIR Foundation, which provides salon services for homeless women. SCOTLAND

Caroline Larissey will be meeting the Scottish Government’s business minister Jamie Hepburn in the new year to highlight the lack of funding for Level 3 Modern Apprenticeships in Scotland. We also responded positively to a Scottish Government consultation on business rates.


Events

ILLUMINATE BLACKPOOL WITH 17 CATEGORIES, THERE IS SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE AT THE BLACKPOOL HAIRDRESSING COMPETITIONS IN MARCH.

The countdown is firmly underway to March’s Blackpool Hairdressing Competitions. But don’t delay, as the cut-off for entries is coming up fast. The long-standing floor competition is a hugely important part of the hairdressing calendar in the north west, and a chance for hairdressers of all ages and experience to show off their talent and expertise. The competition will take place on 11 March at Blackpool’s iconic Winter Gardens at The Arena. The closing date for entries is 01 March. This year there will be 17 categories to excel in, as follows: • First timers (blow-dry) – students and trainees • Male fashion look (cut and finish) – open to all • Male fashion look (cut and finish) – students and trainees

• Front cover – open to all • Front cover – students and trainees • Hair up (formal/casual) – open to all • Hair-up (formal/casual) – students and trainees • Barber total look (blow dry) – open to all • Barber total look (blow dry) – students and trainees • The bride (formal/casual) – open to all • The bride (formal/casual) – students and trainees • Colour of the day – open to all • Colour of the day – students and trainees • Fantasy – open to all • Fantasy – students and trainees • It’s a drag – students and trainees • Photographic – open to all Full details and how to enter, as well as an entry form, can be found online at nhf.info/events Doors will open at 9am and the competition will run until 6pm.

DON’T MISS OUT ON 2019 EVENTS! Keep an eye on nhf.info/events for changes and updates to the 2019 programme of events

BOOKINGS Anyone interested in attending events should go to nhf.info/events Bookings can also be made by emailing events@nhf.info or contacting the NHF team on 01234 831965

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BUSINESS EVENING EVENTS (7PM-9PM) Using social media to grow your business 04 February – London 25 February – Portsmouth 11 March – Chester 10 June – York 17 June – Aberdeen 01 July – Norwich 07 October – Cardiff Five steps to increase your profit 04 February – Middlesbrough 03 June – Taunton 30 September – London 04 November – Newark Motivating your team 25 February – Edinburgh 13 May – Bristol 03 June – Manchester 07 October – Guildford 11 November – Cambridge How to get your business working for you 04 March – Coventry 30 September – Preston 07 October – Leeds An introduction to wig styling and customisation 13 May – Birmingham 12 June – London Wages, prices and profit 30 September – Newcastle 11 November – Wolverhampton

CREATIVE EVENING EVENTS (7.30PM-9.30PM) Hair & make-up masterclass 04 March – Derby 01 April – Rotherham A creative evening with Anne Veck (7pm-9.30pm) 17 June – Milton Keynes Avant garde masterclass 01 April – Cardiff

WEBINARS (9.30AM 10.15AM) 11 February – Hair loss taster 25 March – When your top performer becomes your biggest competitor



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