Salonfocus November - December 2015 by National Hair & Beauty Federation

£3.50 Nov/Dec 2015

The essential magazine for salon owners

HOT

SHOTS How to make your salon shots picture perfect

Salons say ‘no’ to extended Sunday trading

Your last-minute tips for Britain’s Best

New mediation service to help sort out complaints

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Contents

C O

T S P6 NEWS Warning over salon gloves

P12 SUNDAY SERVICE Members say they’ll resist pressure to open on Sundays P14 PHONE, MODEL, TICKETS… Your last-minute checklist for Britain’s Best

P16 SHOP TO DROP Ways to maximise your retail sales this Christmas

P18 SALON FOCUSED Make a photoshoot that will turn heads P20-27 YOUR SALON, YOUR PEOPLE A special report into your salon’s people issues, including keeping a family salon happy and what makes a great team P28 KEEP THE CLIENT SATISFIED Clients are getting extra “rights” to complain. A new mediation service could help P30 TESTING TIMES All the detail on the NHF’s new guide to colour testing P32 GOING CONTACTLESS Seven steps to getting you started

P34 SET YOUR SALON APART Splash out on a coffee machine P36 YOUR QUESTIONS P38 EVENTS

CONNECT WITH US AND HAVE YOUR COMMENTS AND TWEETS IN THE NEXT ISSUE OF SALONFOCUS Nov/Dec 2015 | salonfocus

Welcome

PRESIDENT’S

L E T T E R t’s now just a week (6 November) until the deadline closes for entries to Britain’s Best, and a fortnight until we gather at the Heritage Motor Centre in Gaydon on Sunday 15 November.

SALONFOCUS IS PUBLISHED BY: National Hairdressers’ Federation, One Abbey Court, Fraser Road, Priory Business Park, Bedford MK44 3WH t: +44 (0) 1234 831965 f: +44 (0) 1234 838875 e: sfenquiries@salonfocus.co.uk w: www.nhf.info PUBLISHER Hilary Hall e: hilary.hall@nhf.info EDITOR Nic Paton e: sfeditor@salonfocus.co.uk EVENTS AND SOCIAL MEDIA Victoria Priestley t: +44 (0) 1234 834386 e: Victoria.Priestley@nhf.info ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER Andy Etherton T: + 44 (0) 1536 527297 e: andy.etherton@nhf.info DESIGN AND PRODUCTION Rick Fraterrigo Matrix Print Consultants Ltd t: +44 (0) 1536 527297 e: rick@matrixprint.com While every care is taken in compiling this issue of salonfocus including manuscripts and photographs submitted, we accept no responsibility for any losses or damage, whatever the cause. All information and prices contained in advertisements are accepted by the publishers in good faith as being correct at the time of going to press. Neither the advertisers nor the publishers accept any responsibility for any variations affecting price variations or availability after the publication has gone to press. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the permission of the publisher, to whom application must first be made. The views expressed by contributors to salonfocus are not necessarily those of the NHF, the publisher or its editor. © 2015 The National Hairdressers’ Federation. Material for consideration in this section of the magazine should be submitted via email or digital file transfer to the editor, salonfocus. Submissions should be made on the understanding that the National Hairdressers’ Federation has the right to use the material in any part of the magazine and any of its other publications, promotions or website, free from any copyright restrictions, or appearance fees other than the issue of artistic and photographic credits where applicable. Please include salon name, photographer and stylist.

I’m really excited about the buzz around this year’s competition. I must also thank our sponsors ITEC, SALONGENIUS and Coversure Insurance ABOUT PAUL Paul Curry is president of Services for their unfailing support. the NHF and a registered It’s going to be a day of inspiration, creativity hairdresser. For the past 25 years he has run Studio 12 and passion – and I look forward to seeing in York, a busy high street salon that faces exactly you there, whether competing or cheering the same challenges and pressures as the majority of on your favourite team. Good luck and may NHF members. the best win! Britain’s Best is also when we announce the winner of this year’s Photographic Stylist of the Year. The quality of entries has been exceptionally high, and so the judging has been extremely difficult. But, as I write, we now have our shortlist. Of course my lips are sealed until the big day but, again, I wish all our entrants the very best of luck. On a final note, everyone is giving up a precious Sunday to come to Britain’s Best. But NHF members have made it very clear they will resist pressure to open their salons on Sunday, even if Sunday opening – and longer Sunday opening – becomes increasingly common. It works for some, but many salon owners want to keep Sundays as a day for rest, recreation, families and fun. PAUL CURRY NHF president

COMING UP IN JAN/FEB

Understanding your salon’s ‘lifecycle’ What you need to be planning for when your salon is young, middle-aged and mature – and how the NHF can help

salonfocus | Nov/Dec 2015

Take hold of your destiny in 2016 with the NHF’s new-look programme of business events All the excitement – and the winners – from Britain's Best.

Do you have a salon story to tell? Would you like to be featured in salonfocus? Get in touch with the team, on 01234 834385, or send an email to sfeditor@salonfocus.co.uk

News

in September set out a range of enforcement measures that will accompany the new wage.

WARNING OVER LIVING WAGE he government has warned that salons can expect an extremely tough enforcement regime when the new compulsory National Living Wage is introduced next April.

Existing minimum wage rates rose last month (October), but salons are still bracing themselves for the introduction of a new £7.20-an-hour wage for staff aged 25 or over from April 2016. Prime minister David Cameron and business secretary Sajid Javid

ENFORCEMENT TEAM These include setting up a new team of compliance officers within HM Revenue & Customs (HMRC) specifically to enforce the living wage. The budget the government gives to enforcement activities is also to be doubled. The penalty for non-payment, which has been 100% of the money owed, will rise to 200%, although this will be halved if payment is made within 14 days. The maximum penalty for failing to pay the right minimum wage – £20,000 – will remain unchanged, but salons should note this was increased in May from £20,000 in total to £20,000 per underpaid employee. On top of this, employers who deliberately break the law will face the prospect of a criminal prosecution and, if found guilty, could be disqualified from being a company director for 15 years. Sajid Javid said: “There is no excuse for employers flouting minimum wage rules and these announcements will ensure those who do try and cheat staff out of pay will feel the full force of the law.” The ramping up of enforcement activity follows the launch in the summer of a major compliance drive by HMRC specifically targeting hairdressers, barbers and beauty salons (salonfocus, Sept/Oct 2015). However this, for now at least, is more focused on encouraging salons to come forward voluntarily, and therefore without penalty, to work with HMRC to get their pay processes in order.

SMALL FIRMS ‘BACK BAG CHARGE’ Thousands of small retailers were expected to begin charging 5p for plastic bags from last month, even though they don’t have to. Research by the Association of Convenience Stores in September predicted that 8,000 salonfocus | Nov/Dec 2015

(or about 16%) of village stores, newsagents and cornershops in England planned to introduce a charge for plastic bags from 5 October. New laws were due to come in from that date meaning large retailers in England will have to charge

customers 5p for each plastic bag, though small retailers are exempt. Similar schemes in Wales, Northern Ireland and Scotland, introduced in 2011, 2013 and 2014 respectively, have already led to a sharp reduction in the use of plastic bags there.

The NHF has argued that excluding small retailers risks confusing clients and charging 5p for bags – with the charge often going to charity anyway – would be something most clients would support because it will be good for the environment.

News

NORWEGIAN SPRUCE-UP

GLOVE USE CONCERN scientific study has raised questions about the safety of many gloves commonly used in salons for mixing and applying colour, while researchers have also warned hairdressers not to re-use disposable gloves.

Research in the journal Contact Dermatitis studied levels of protection of various gloves. Six gloves were studied: two vinyl, one natural rubber latex, two nitrile, and one polyethylene, with hair dye containing phenylenediamine (PPD) being mixed. The researchers concluded that eczema-like

reactions still occurred with the natural rubber latex, polyethylene and vinyl gloves. However, nitrile gloves appeared to give a much greater level of protection, even after 60 minutes of exposure to the dye. The second study, published in the journal Occupational and Environmental Medicine, has warned hairdressers not to re-use gloves when dyeing hair, as this can increase the risk of skin irritation or an allergic reaction. Hairdressers who disposed of gloves after a single use had a much lower exposure to skin-irritating chemicals in the hair dye. “Disposable gloves should never be re-used,” the researchers concluded.

MEMBERS SHOW WHO’S BUSINESS

NHF members have swept the board at this year’s British Hairdressing Business Awards. Hare & Bone in London won the Independent Salon – Business Newcomer and Salon Design awards. The Retail Salon category was won by Midlandsbased chain Barrie Stephen Hair (right), while London salon Hair Culture was a finalist. Q Hair & Beauty in Chichester won the Salon Team of the Year award and the Marketing Award went to Broad Street Hair in Bristol. Ego Hair Design in Inverness won the Front of House Team of the Year award, while The Company of Master Barbers won in the Male Grooming Salon of the Year category. Claire Timlin, manager of En Route Hair & Beauty in Wakefield, and James Hughes, manager of Foran & Blake Hair & Beauty in Lancashire, were both also finalists for the Manager of the Year award. “Awards are an important part of being recognised for work that you do, and it is just great for the team, our clients and Leicester to be able to shout about this city and our work and bring awards home,” said Barrie.

Oslo in Norway is the most expensive place in the world to get your hair cut, according to a study, with London ranked 14th most expensive for women and 21st for men. Research by Swiss bank UBS concluded that Oslo and Jakarta in Indonesia were the most expensive and the cheapest places respectively to get a haircut, both for women (£61.26 versus £2.98) and men (£50.10 versus £2.90). In London, by comparison, the figure was £31.81 for women and £16.07 for men.

SKILLS BILL Britons spend an average of £125 a year on going to the hairdresser, according to the UK’s first “Skills Spending Index”. The index, compiled by skills firm Find a Future, calculated that going out for meals is the top priced “skill” paid out for (£342 a year), followed by having a car fixed or serviced (£213), and then hairdressing.

Nov/Dec 2015 | salonfocus

News

POP-UP SHOPS

GROWING FAST

BED HEAD HAIR SPACE: A LONDON POP-UP

op-up shops are becoming an increasingly important part of the highstreet retail landscape, a survey has argued.

Pop-up outlets are now worth some £2.3bn to the UK economy, an increase of more than 12% on last year, the study by the Centre for Economics & Business Research (CEBR) and mobile phone company EE has concluded. In all, pop-ups now account for 0.76% of total UK retail turnover, so still a small amount overall, but up from 0.6% the year before.

The survey concluded British high streets now host some 10,000 pop-up outlets each year, and pop-ups employ around 26,000 people. Some 44% of the shoppers questioned said they would be happy to buy from or use a pop-up, on average spending around £124 a year each in such outlets. Rob Harbron, managing economist for CEBR, said: “Successful retailers increasingly need to offer customers the ability to shop when and where they want. As such, the flexibility of pop-up stores makes the format increasingly attractive.”

INSURANCE

WARNING Salons are being warned they could see insurance premiums rise sharply from this month (November), because of a significant increase in insurance premium tax (IPT). The government in July said it would be increasing IPT from 6% to 9.5% from this November. Although this should not affect existing premiums, it will mean when salons come to renew a policy they could be faced with a much higher premium to pay. The insurance brokers’ group UNA has suggested it could mean the average buildings and contents policy rising by £10-12 and car insurance by £12-13.

salonfocus | Nov/Dec 2015

‘COUP’ AS

HJ GETS

NEW OWNER

The British Hairdressing Awards, Salon International and Hairdressers’ Journal are coming under new ownership, after being bought by the Professional Beauty group. The acquisition from publisher Reed Business Information of what together are the industry’s biggest competition, event and best-known trade magazine has been described as “a genuine coup” by Professional Beauty managing director Mark Moloney. It is not yet clear whether the acquisition will mean any of the Professional Beauty or HJ brands being merged together. Professional Beauty already has The Professional Beauty Awards, runs a range of Professional Beauty-branded conferences and exhibitions and publishes Professional Beauty magazine.

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News

TWITTER FOLLOWERS 8,139

FACEBOOK LIKES 11,172

WHAT’S TRENDING SHARE YOUR TOP TIPS ON RETAIL! @styledbyollie Open-ended questions help clients realise what they want, ending in them buying retail not you selling it to them. @PPoshHair We advise what is needed. Clients need to know. We do lots of retail training now and ours has increased by 56% in a year! @sottungacademy By subtly drawing attention to the product, the client will enquire & open the dialogue #hairhour OutcastHair we call our #retail area take home (your hairdresser-he he) and have “try me” bottles 4 guests available to use x #hairhour

SHOPPERS PREFER

SMALL SALONS ritish shoppers prefer to visit small independent hairdressing salons and barber shops over big-chain names, a survey has suggested.

Research by business cards and marketing company Avery WePrint has argued that, of 2,000 people questioned, getting a haircut was the top product or service they would prefer to buy from a small business.

A total of 60% said they preferred the personalised service they got from a small, independent shop, while 80% said buying from a small business left them with a feeling of happiness or contentment. By comparison, just 53% said they felt this way after making a purchase from a big firm. “Customers say they feel valued by small companies and that’s something every business should be trying to emulate,” said Avery WePrint's Fiona Mills.

SCOTS LOOK AGAIN AT TRIBUNAL FEES The Scottish government is looking into scrapping employment tribunal fees north of the border. The Scotland Bill, which is part of the Scottish government’s 2015-16 legislative programme, has included a commitment to abolish the fees so as to ensure “employees have a

salonfocus | Nov/Dec 2015

fair opportunity to have their case heard”. The worry for salons in Scotland would be if this leads to tribunal cases rising sharply again. Figures from law firm Clyde & Co, for example, have argued that cases coming before tribunals have fallen by 72% since

the introduction of fees from July 2013. The HR body the Chartered Institute of Personnel and Development said in March it had, similarly, seen a 70% drop. The fees mean a claimant must pay up to £950 to take a case to tribunal.

YOU KNOW YOU’RE A HAIRSTYLIST WHEN… @DexterityHair You can drink, eat, text and mix a colour at the same time! @myluxuryhair When someone says “what would you do to this?” On a night out!!! @Sarahbpool You’re immune to the taste of hairspray

JOIN IN THE CONVERSATION @NHFederation

facebook.com/national hairdressersfederation

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10/08/2015 14:05:50

Sunday trading reforms

SUNDAY

SERVICE

NHF MEMBERS HAVE COME OUT STRONGLY AGAINST GOVERNMENT PLANS TO RELAX SUNDAY OPENING HOURS. SALONFOCUS LOOKS AT WHAT THIS CHANGE MIGHT MEAN FOR SALONS AND BARBER SHOPS.

ore than eight out of 10 NHF members say they plan to resist pressure on their high streets to open on Sundays, even if longer Sunday opening becomes more commonplace under government proposals.

The finding was the headline of a survey carried out by the NHF as part of its submission to a government consultation into the plans, which were announced by chancellor George Osborne in his summer Budget in July. What’s more, the issue has clearly touched a nerve with many NHF members, as the survey got a huge response, with more than 200 hairdressing and beauty salon and barber shop owners taking the time to respond. So, what did we find? EVENING OPENING First, the vast majority of salons (41%) already open for either five days a week or six (40%). A significant proportion (32%) also stay open late one evening a week, with more than a quarter (28%) opening late twice a week. As more and more shops decide to open on a Sunday, salons, it seems, are

salonfocus | Nov/Dec 2015

feeling under ever-greater pressure to follow suit, even if they don’t really want to. In our survey, some 60% of members agreed the general trend was for salons and barber shops to be more likely nowadays to open on Sundays. However, intriguingly, they could not point to much actual evidence of this happening locally. Nearly 69% said the level of Sunday opening in their area was much the same as it had always been. When asked if they did open on a Sunday, nearly 16% said “yes”, so still a minority of salons but nevertheless a relatively sizeable one. That also means, of course, the vast majority – 84% – currently still do not open on a Sunday. RELUCTANCE Crucially, when asked if they were considering opening on a Sunday, the reluctance to go down this route was very clear. Nearly 83% said “no” versus 17% who conceded that, yes, it was something they were now considering as an option. For most, the business benefits of committing to Sunday opening remained unclear, with nearly half saying they “did not know” if existing clients would welcome the extra availability.

There was also a suspicion it could just spread existing trade over more days rather than increase sales. When it came to the pros and cons of Sunday opening, members agreed adding an extra day did have the potential to increase client footfall, keep clients happy and give salons a competitive edge over their rivals. But members were also very clear about the possible downsides. The struggle to find staff to work on a Sunday, the extra cost, having less time for family and social life and not getting a proper break from the salon were all important reasons given by members for resisting the drift towards Sunday opening. PRESSURE TO OPEN So, what does this all mean for hairdressers and barbers? First, technically, for small businesses the government’s plans do not change anything. Small businesses (of less than 3,000sq ft) can already open all day on a Sunday, should they wish to do so. But the worry – as our survey clearly illustrates – is salons that do not open on a Sunday may increasingly feel the odd one out, and under pressure to open when they don’t really want to or don’t feel it will particularly add anything financially. It is probably inevitable Sunday trading hours will be relaxed, and longer Sunday opening will as a result become more commonplace. But, as NHF president Paul Curry has argued, ultimately salon owners need to step back and make their own decision on this, if necessary holding firm against the Sunday trading tide if that’s what they feel is right for them and their salon. “This research has shown our industry has mixed feelings about Sunday trading. It’s up to each individual salon owner and doing what’s right for their family, clients, staff and, of course, their business,” he said. WHAT'S YOUR VIEW ON SUNDAY OPENING? TELL US WHAT YOU THINK ON SOCIAL MEDIA.

HOW MANY DAYS PER WEEK ARE YOU OPEN NOW?

HOW MANY EVENINGS ARE YOU OPEN AFTER 6PM? I OPENED ON A SUNDAY FIVE YEARS AGO. I CAN’T EXPRESS ENOUGH HOW SUNDAYS HAVE INCREASED MY SALES. SUNDAYS ARE THE NEW SATURDAY AND THE LAWS SHOULD BE RELAXED. DAVID RAE, DAVID RAE SALONS, ORPINGTON, KENT

1 and 2 days: 0%

None: 10%

4 evenings: 5.9%

3 days: 0.5%

5.5 days: 4.6%

1 evening: 31.8%

5 evenings: 6.4%

4 days: 2.3%

6 days: 40.2%

2 evenings: 28.2%

6 evenings: 3.2%

5 days: 40.6%

7 days: 11.9.%

3 evenings: 13.2%

7 evenings: 1.4%

ARE YOU CURRENTLY OPEN ON SUNDAYS?

ARE YOU CONSIDERING OPENING ON SUNDAYS?

WE EXPERIMENTED WITH SUNDAY TRADING, BUT WE FOUND IT SPREAD OUR SATURDAY CLIENTS OVER TWO DAYS BUT SUFFERED INCREASED COSTS AND NO ADDITIONAL INCOME. STEVEN BANNISTER, THE DAISY CHAIN (HAIR & BEAUTY), GILLINGHAM, KENT

I OPENED MY SALON IN 2013 AND HAVE WORKED MOST SUNDAYS SINCE OPENING. PEOPLE FIND IT SO USEFUL, AS MANY PEOPLE ARE WORKING DURING THE WEEK. I WOULD DEFINITELY SAY ACCOMMODATING PEOPLE ON A SUNDAY HAS GIVEN ME A LOT OF EXTRA CLIENTS. LINDSAY NORRIE, ROCOCO HAIR DESIGN, FOVERAN, ABERDEENSHIRE

Yes: 15.9%

No: 84.1.%

Yes: 17.4%

No: 82.6%

WHAT THE GOVERNMENT IS PLANNING Under current Sunday trading laws, large stores (of more than 280sq m or 3,000sq ft) are unable to open for more than six hours a day on a Sunday. Normally this means they’ll open from 10am-4pm or 11am-5pm. Shops smaller than this are able to open all day on a Sunday, if they so wish, but are under no obligation to do so. The government is intending to change the law to give local authorities in England and Wales – both local councils and elected local mayors – more power and flexibility to decide how long larger shops should be allowed to stay open on a Sunday. The government has stressed there are no plans to change the rules relating to trading on Easter Sunday or Christmas Day. The full consultation, which ran from August to September, can be viewed at gov.uk by clicking through to “consultations” and then searching for “Sunday trading”.

LONDON IS AN INCREASINGLY COSMOPOLITAN CITY; MANY YOUNG PROFESSIONALS WORK LONG, ANTI-SOCIAL HOURS, SO THERE IS A SOUND FINANCIAL ARGUMENT TO OPEN ON SUNDAYS. BUT WE OWE A DUTY OF CARE TO OUR HARD-WORKING, HIGHLY SKILLED STAFF AND THEIR FAMILIES. MANY HAIRDRESSERS WORK LONG, TIRING HOURS OFTEN LATE INTO THE EVENING, BUT PERSONAL RELATIONSHIPS AND FAMILY LIFE REQUIRE CONTINUITY AND QUALITY TIME. JOANNE SUTHERLAND SMITH, JO SUTHERLAND HAIR STUDIO, LONDON

Nov/Dec 2015 | salonfocus

Britain’s Best

PHONE, MODEL, TICKETS… GET SET FOR

IF YOU HAVEN’T GOT YOUR ENTRY IN FOR BRITAIN’S BEST ON SUNDAY 15 NOVEMBER, YOU NOW NEED TO MOVE FAST. AND DON’T FORGET THESE FINAL TOP TIPS.

his year’s Britain’s Best is nearly upon us. Salons that want to compete have just days left – until Friday 6 November – to get in their entries.

Here are our last-minute tips to get the best from both the competition and the day itself. • Don’t forget to enter (and pay the entry fee). Obvious we know, but if you haven’t already, go to britainsbest.me to enter. • Take a last look at the categories. If you’re going to have a model there anyway, have a think – are there other competition categories you could still enter, such as Colour of the Day? Don’t forget, there are 12 categories this year, so there's lots to choose from. You can only be in it to win it!

• Do a timed practice run. You don’t want to run out of time, so run through and practise how long you’ve got on the floor to complete your look. • Have you remembered to order your spectator tickets? After all, how else are the rest of your team, friends or family going to be able to cheer you on? • Make sure your phone is fully charged. You don’t want to miss out on selfies with you and your model. And tweet about the day using #britainsbest. • Know the rules. Read and make sure you know the rules for all the categories you’ve entered. Printing them out and bringing them along to refer to is a good idea. You want to win, not miss out by a whisker just because you got a penalty point. • Check all your equipment. Make sure you’ve got all the kit you need. Then once you’ve checked it, check it again.

• Leave yourself plenty of time. You want to arrive with plenty of time beforehand to prepare yourself and your team. The first category starts at 9.30am so make sure you get to The Heritage Motor Centre nice and early. Doors open from 9am. Don't forget, you also need to arrive with enough time in hand to get your equipment safety checked. • Try not to get lost. See above. It’s a Sunday, but traffic can sometimes be heavy so make sure you know where you’re going, how to get there and how long the journey is likely to take you. The address is The Heritage Motor Centre, Gaydon, Warwickshire. The postcode for your satnav is CV35 0BJ. • Get ready to enjoy yourself and have a great day. Yes, it’s a competition but Britain’s Best is also about you, your team, friends and family enjoying yourself and having a great, inspiring experience. So go for it!

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Maximising retail: Christmas and new year trade

SHOP TILL

THEY DROP RETAIL SALES CAN BE THE ICING ON THE CAKE FOR MANY SALONS AT CHRISTMAS. SO, HOW CAN YOU MAXIMISE THE FESTIVE BUYING RUSH? AND HOW CAN YOU CONTINUE TO TEMPT IN RETAIL TRADE IN JANUARY? SALONFOCUS INVESTIGATES.

“S

ince our £150,000 refit in 2014 we’ve increased our retail turnover by more than 12% (from over £71,000 to over £82,000), and now 20% of our clients purchase retail.” So says Barrie Stephen, owner of four-strong Midlands salon chain Barrie Stephen Hair and winner in September of the Retail Salon category in the prestigious British Hairdressing Business Awards. Retail sales have always been an important part of the salon mix. But how can you make retail work even better for you, not just in the run-up to Christmas – naturally one of the prime retail periods of the year – but in January too, when clients are often feeling broke or “shopped out”? SALES TRAINING “In the last 12 months we’ve completely reviewed and revamped our retail strategy,” explains Barrie. “Our new retail zone is now in prime position at the salon’s entrance. It is purely focused on being client friendly. Clients have to want to touch, smell and try the products; it’s a great way to start a retail conversation – to enable this we always have a team member at the retail area,” Barrie tells salonfocus. “We go through the numbers closely,” advises Mikaela Martin of Spirit Hair

salonfocus | Nov/Dec 2015

Company in Wallingford. “Between October and December we probably get something like 300 clients walking through the door. So if a stylist orders 24 Christmas bags I tell them their mission is to sell them to just one client in 12, which makes it seem much easier than suddenly having 24 packs to sell. “We also give our staff training in how to speak about selling packs. We encourage them to have a chart on the wall so they can monitor how much they are selling,” Mikaela adds. BACKWASH ‘SELL’ Both Barrie and Mikaela agree the backwash is a key location – and moment – in which to promote retail. “One of our most successful retail policies is that every single client without fail is offered a backwash treatment,” explains Barrie. “It means the team have a natural follow-up with the client to showcase the homecare range that best complements the treatment they’ve had. Our retail culture also supports the ‘hair professional as expert’. It’s not rocket science or a pitch, our staff are taught not to judge the clients by their choices but give them enough positive information to make a good one,” he adds. “We put a sign above the backwash, on the ceiling, about the packs and everything we have got for sale for Christmas,” says Mikaela.

“So the client can see it on the ceiling. We also have a Christmas display that’s separate from our normal retail area. We don’t, however, do a specific Christmas window display; we just don’t have the space really,” she adds. THE PRICE IS RIGHT Price positioning is, obviously, important. Salons are operating in an intensely competitive environment but at the same time you don’t want to undersell your salon “brand”. “One thing nowadays that definitely makes our job harder is the pricing of professional products online,” says Barrie. “The only way to beat the internet is to ensure the personal experience of shopping is so satisfying that online prices aren’t the only consideration. Clients value professional advice and an expert salon. Our strongest advantage is the people factor and we ensure we make the most of this,” he adds. “We sell gift items priced from everything from £2.50 up to £130, so it’s a wide range. We sit down every month

SALON

RETAIL TIPS

ALICE KIRBY OF SALON MARKETING AGENCY LOCKHART MEYER OUTLINES HER TOP CHRISTMAS RETAIL TIPS FOR SALONS.

CLIENTS VALUE PROFESSIONAL ADVICE AND AN EXPERT SALON. OUR STRONGEST ADVANTAGE IS THE PEOPLE FACTOR

and analyse our bookings, especially when the regulars are coming in, and so make sure we display things we think they might like,” agrees Mikaela. “We have a stocking policy that if you can buy it on the high street, then you can’t buy it here. We very much go for the upper end,” agrees Dan Rix, managing director of The Master Barber’s Shop in Southport. The salon was a finalist in the British Hairdressing Business Awards Retail Salon category and winner in the Male

Grooming Salon of the Year category. “But to do that you have to commit to it, put some capital into your stock. There is no point just having the odd jar or tube; you have to have in-depth stock and in-depth knowledge of your stock,” he adds. NEW YEAR FOCUS “When January comes round one thing we do is a raffle plus a January sale,” recommends Mikaela. “When a client purchases a retail product during January they go into a raffle, which runs until Valentine’s Day. Then the winner gets a goodie hamper. We’ve been doing it for about three years now and we find it really helps.” “We often do as well with retail in January as we do at Christmas. If anything the period we find the quietest is the first week of February. January is often just a continuation of what has gone before Christmas. Then there’s Valentine’s Day and then you’re into Easter and Father’s Day. We also have voucher sales throughout the year,” adds Dan.

IN THE WINDOW: • Have a specific Christmas theme or “story”, such as “winter wonderland”. • Incorporate movement, such as dangling decorations or ribbons. • Mix large and small items that both pedestrians and drivers will be able to see. • Put merchandise at different levels rather than in straight lines. • Use mirrors to add sparkle • Add some spotlights to create a more festive lighting effect. IN THE SALON: • Put festive gifts or packs on the right hand side of your salon. The majority of people head to the right when they first enter a shop. • Have some “stocking fillers” on the reception desks. • Group products into odd numbers (so three or five rather than two or four) as this is more appealing to the eye. • Make sure everything is well signposted and has a price on it. • If you have a big display put dark coloured products (which appear heavier than lighter ones) lower. • If a display is really working, take a photo to remind yourself for next time. For more marketing tips go to lockhart-meyer.co.uk

Nov/Dec 2015 | salonfocus

Taking a salon photoshoot

SALON

FOCUSED

A COMPELLING COLLECTION CAN BE THE ‘SIGNATURE’ SELLING POINT FOR YOUR SALON. AND IT ALL COMES DOWN TO GETTING THE PHOTOSHOOT RIGHT.

professional photographer, models, stylist, make-up artist, studio – you can spend serious money on a salon photoshoot. But if that sort of budget is out of your league, here’s how you can still create a compelling collection or showcase for your salon.

PREPARATION

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WORK OUT WHAT YOU CAN SPEND. Think carefully what your budget is and what you’re happy to spend or economise on. Make full use of any talent at your local college or any contacts you already have. MAKE A MOOD BOARD. Animators, photographers, designers – they all swear by their mood board. A mood board is a visual storyboard of what you want to see at the end of the shoot. It can also be a great way to throw around and play with ideas. Go through hair, fashion or make-up magazines that inspire you. Dig around online. Do some drawings or sketches. SPEND TIME FINDING THE RIGHT MODEL (OR CLIENT). This should hardly need explaining. You want models who are going to make people stop and look. So put some time and effort into finding someone with the right “look”. Again your local college might be a good bet. But also don’t be afraid to ask around your clients. USE THE BEST CAMERA YOU CAN AFFORD. A lot of smartphone cameras are actually great these days, but if you can get your hands on a more professional bit of kit, do so. Whatever camera you’re using, get yourself familiar with all its functions. But bear in mind that just because it is able to add something – swirly graphics or an “antique” look for example – doesn’t mean you should use it.

WATCH FOR CLUTTER. If you’re doing the shoot in the salon it’s going to be very easy to miss background clutter. Spend time, perhaps without the model in shot, just looking through the lens for clutter and distractions. You might be able to photoshop things out afterwards, but why create extra hassle? “Clutter” can also mean contrasting or clashing colours, jazzy wallpaper, stains or marks, or even shadows. A good tip here is move lamps around to see how this affects any shadows.

TAKE YOUR TIME. Get comfortable in your body, move around, get low, get high – and don’t be afraid to use a set of moveable steps if that helps. Try out many different angles and shots. Also, make sure you’re balanced and relaxed in how you’re holding the camera, for example that you’re not too cramped or holding it too far away.

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LOOK FOR DEPTH. Photographers often talk about an image’s “depth of field”. This is the contrast between the part of the picture that’s sharp (often the model) and areas that are more blurry. A good rule of thumb is to work to make one thing, one element, the focal point rather than trying to give everything the same flat focus.

TAKE LOTS AND LOTS OF IMAGES. With digital photography there’s no excuse not to snap away to your heart’s content. The more images you take, the more options you’ll have.

THINK LIGHT, AND LIGHTS. Good light, and good lighting, is critical for a good shot. If you can’t afford to hire professional lights, at least make sure either your space is flooded with strong daylight or awash with highintensity electric light. Avoid taking shots with a window straight ahead, as this will play havoc with light and shade.

DON’T FORGET MAKEUP AND CLOTHES. Obviously, your shoot is going to be about the hair. But do put careful thought into clothes, make-up and accessories (jewellery or otherwise). These will all add to overall look you are trying to create.

FIND OUT MORE Salon software firm Phorest has published its own guide to salon photoshoots. Check it out here at phorest.com/ blog/2015/04/14/phorestsguide-to-taking-the-perfectsalon-photos/ Phorest’s Connor Keppel will be speaking on “Marketing Your Salon” on the NHF business stage at Hair Congress (formerly Hair Professional), part of Professional Beauty, London, on 29 February at 1pm. For more details go to haircongress.com

IS YOUR MODEL TOO SKINNY? WHEN YOU’RE IN THE BUZZ OF A PHOTOSHOOT IT CAN BE ALL TOO EASY TO FORGET THE BIGGER PICTURE. The Committee of Advertising Practice, which writes the advertising codes administered by the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA), has urged the industry not to overlook body image issues when carrying out photoshoots, especially using models who appear skeletally thin. It has highlighted two recent successful complaints to the ASA, one against Yves Saint Laurent, which featured models felt to be overly thin or skinny. It has recommended you ask yourself the following questions: • Are the model’s bones visible? • Does the model’s pose exaggerate different parts of the body, such as bones in the torso? • Does the model’s make-up support the impression he or she is unhealthy? • Does the lighting add to this unhealthy impression? • Could the costume also make the model look unhealthily thin? “It’s important to remember that the ASA considers not only the content of an advertisement, but also the context in which it appears,” it warned. So, for example, you are likely to need to take particular care if you are doing a photoshoot featuring or targeting young women.

Nov/Dec 2015 | salonfocus

Photography: Post Photographic

Your salon, your people: keeping it in the family

HAPPY

Facts and figures

FAMILIES

FOR MANY SALON OWNERS, PASSING ON THEIR ‘BABY’ TO THEIR ACTUAL SON OR DAUGHTER IS THE ULTIMATE GOAL. BUT KEEPING YOUR SALON ‘IN THE FAMILY’ HAS TO BE MANAGED CAREFULLY. SALONFOCUS SITS AROUND THE DINING TABLE.

88% Family business owners who believe the same family or families will control their business in five years

30% Family businesses that actually survive into a second generation

t was 1978. Boney M were at the height of their “Rivers of Babylon/Brown Girl in the Ring” disco glory, the Sony Walkman had just been invented, Grease was packing out cinemas. In terms of hairstyles, think Farrah Fawcett, Suzi Quatro and, er, Kevin Keegan. Or possibly don’t.

It was also the year Sandra Stevens bought a small salon in Melksham, Wiltshire, from a couple who were retiring. Scroll forward 37 years and Tops Hair Salon & Beauty is still a thriving familyowned and run business. Indeed, Sandra hopes the fact it is a multi-generational family affair, employing Sandra’s daughters Victoria and Alexandra as salon managers, will go a long way towards securing its future when she finally retires. “The aim is to pass the salon on to both of them eventually, to pass it on equally. I’ll be gradually working less and the girls will be making more of the decisions. Already they make a lot of decisions without feeling they need to come to me first. In fact, I’m now able to take Saturdays off, which for nearly 40 years never used to be the case!” explains Sandra. Sandra, of course, is not alone in this ambition. For many small salon owners, the ultimate goal is for their salon to be

both the retirement “nest egg” and the next generation’s inheritance. But doing this isn’t easy. GAME OF THRONES? Making a successful transition from one generation to another can be challenging. In fact, as anyone who is a fan of Game of Thrones will testify, combining family, ambition and money can be a combustible mix. And that’s before we even get to the challenges of keeping work and home life separate and managing an “employee” who also happens to be family member. “Both Alex and I spent our childhoods in the salon. I remember walking with my little trolley around the salon. We still have some clients coming in who I remember from that time,” recalls Victoria. “After leaving school, I wanted to experience working in a different salon environment so I chose to do my apprenticeship in a salon in Bath. I worked there for three years and then decided the time was right to join the family business,” she adds. Alexandra, by comparison, is not trained as a hairdresser and so focuses on the business side of running the salon, as well as the marketing and social media. “We have well defined roles. It’s been quite easy because it’s very clear I don’t get involved in the hairdressing side. It also makes it much easier for the staff because it means they know who to come to if they have an issue; they’ll know whether it’ll

12% That are still viable into the third generation

3% Still being run as a family business into their fourth generation

? 57% Family firms that have no defined plan for “succession” in place

39% Family firms where the owner expects to leave or retire in the coming years Sources: The Family Business Institute and The Scottish Family Business Association

Nov/Dec 2015 | salonfocus

Your salon, your people: keeping it in the family

be me or Victoria they need to speak to. Having defined roles is, I think, important,” she points out. “If you don’t have well defined roles, it’s easy to find yourself battling over everything or each of you trying to do the same thing all the time,” Alexandra adds. “It can be valuable to sit down and write out the job description for each other as well as yourself. Otherwise you risk having too many bosses, and that’s not easy,” agrees Sandra. “We do ‘talk salon’ over dinner sometimes – poor dad, he does have to put up with a lot of salon talk – but we do try not to do it all the time. Sometimes the discussions can get quite heated, even around the dinner table. We all, obviously, have different ideas about things and will want to get our point across,” adds Victoria. As the salon employs around 12 people it’s also been important that Sandra has always treated them just like any other member of the team, they both agree. “I am very conscious of not taking advantage of the fact I’m part of the family; I never ask people do things I wouldn’t be prepared to do myself. And, if anything, I’d say mum is a bit harder on us than the employees; she is probably stricter with us. I certainly don’t feel I get away with anything!” admits Victoria. IT’S A FAMILY AFFAIR One year after Sandra opened in Melksham – in 1979 – Robert Rix opened the first of a series of Master Barber’s Shops. Just like Tops Hair Salon & Beauty, the business is firmly a family affair, with son Dan working as salon manager and daughter Abi also employed as a stylist. And it doesn’t stop there, as Dan explains. “Working in the salon on a Saturday used to be my pin money. I did the sweeping up from the age of nine. My wife, who used to be a TV producer, also now helps out in the business with planning, marketing and administration duties,” he says. “I worked in TV as a senior cameraman, managing various crews, so I’ve been able to bring my management and photographic background to bear on things like display and presentation. I just got tired of the rat race in London

salonfocus | Nov/Dec 2015

and fancied a career change. So I came back and gained my Level 2, 3 and 4,” Dan adds. Keeping family and work separate can be difficult, concedes Robert. “One does tend to bleed into the other a bit; you really cannot help that. You just have to keep a rational head on your shoulders, try to draw the line and keep at least some elements of your home or family life sacrosanct.” “But then I think of Robert as my best friend as well as my father. We will meet for a glass of wine at the bar and just talk, friend to friend,” adds Dan. “It’s important to try and avoid the ‘them and us’ syndrome,” advises Robert, echoing Sandra Stevens in Melksham. “I have to continually emphasise it and, if anything, probably over-compensate. The last thing you want is a them and us atmosphere spoiling a good thing.” “And it’s important that we do work to bring members of staff up through the ranks as well, often into deputy positions. It is important they feel there is progression for them too, and that they are not left out,” says Dan. “I continue to work through choice, not necessity. In fact I see my role going forward as more of a teacher, whether it is within my own team or more widely. I have so much knowledge that has been built up over the years it would be a shame to let it go; it is about passing things on,” concludes Robert.

ROBERT (LEFT) AND DAN RIX: PASSION FOR THEIR SALON

NEXT GENERATION PLANNING

A FAMILY SALON: (FROM LEFT) ALEXANDRA WITH VICTORIA AND SANDRA STEVENS, OF TOPS HAIR SALON & BEAUTY (BELOW)

• Plan ahead. Recognise that bringing a family member into the business and/or getting them fully trained to step into your shoes will take time, probably a number of years. • Communicate. Family members must know what your plan is. This allows you to manage any disappointments and work through any surprises (for example your preferred successor not actually wanting to take charge). • Be very clear about money and ownership. Explain how the business is or will be structured and who its shareholders are or will be. Explain exactly how you expect to pass the business on financially and what your role will be. • Be clear, too, about roles and responsibilities. This will help family members know what’s what and provide clarity to employees, for example around who is their “boss”. • Be open to new ideas. Recognise new family members may bring with them different ideas about how to run the business. That’s healthy. When the succession has been made, try not to back-seat drive. • Try to keep business and family life at least a bit separate. Try and create times or events that are specifically business-free but also recognise there will be occasions when the family talks “shop”. • Be aware of favouritism. Be vigilant about the dangers of treating family members more (or less) favourably than other employees.

Nov/Dec 2015 | salonfocus

Your salon, your people: creating a winning team

OWNER ANTHONY BARNES-SMITH WITH MEMBERS OF HIS TEAM

SALON SPIRIT CHICHESTER SALON Q HAIR & BEAUTY WON ‘BEST SALON TEAM’ AT SEPTEMBER’S BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS. MANAGING DIRECTOR DAWN LAWRENCE DIVULGES HER SECRETS TO CREATING A GREAT TEAM. Dawn Lawrence

here are so many things that play a part in building and maintaining a really brilliant team spirit.

For me, perhaps the most important is simply being committed to ensuring that all the team feel able to take pride in everything they do; that – every day – they know they are appreciated and valued for their efforts and, as such, look forward to coming into work. I love my own work and I devote a lot of my time to making sure all our team feel the same about theirs. I want them to look on hairdressing as a rewarding career, to think of themselves as being part of a team that really cares. So, what have we found works?

salonfocus | Nov/Dec 2015

WE CREATE A CULTURE OF RESPECT The team is the salon’s greatest asset, making Q what it is. They all bring something different to the mix and share great mutual respect for each other. We recognise that each team member, however senior or junior, adds to the strength of the salon in their own way. We see them day in and day out displaying genuine and consistent commitment in everything they do, enthusiasm for new ideas. We also recognise they have a desire to continue their own development, to take pride in their skills and work and caring professionalism. We go to great lengths to ensure there is no hierarchy at Q.

WE HIRE FOR ATTITUDE AS WELL AS SKILL, AND WE INVEST IN THEIR FUTURE Taking on the right people in the first place is vital of course, and almost all the team at Q are home-grown talent. Several years ago we introduced the “Tiger Club”, a unique after-school club dedicated to coaching young people from the age of 14 in basic hairdressing and salon skills. One day a week youngsters come into the salon and are taught the basics in a caring and supportive environment. If they show commitment, then they are guaranteed to be taken on as apprentices once they leave school – becoming Q’s future professionals. From the moment anyone joins the

Your salon, your people: creating a winning team

THE Q TEAM AT THE BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS

Q team, staff at every level are offered a whole raft of opportunities to develop their skills and advance within the company. At Q we aim to offer a genuine career path that enables people to build a great future for themselves. At present, 87% of the team have been trained from scratch by Q and all of them continue to make the most of further education to keep them at the cuttingedge of hairdressing and beauty. We constantly encourage teammembers to come up with fresh ideas and take on added responsibility. Ongoing training to staff is provided by two dedicated in-house educators and assessors. WE MAKE PEOPLE FEEL LOOKED AFTER AND INVOLVED Through our “Buddy Up” initiative all new team members are assigned a “buddy”, an existing team member, who helps them to get integrated within the team, answers their questions and provides them with a sense of belonging. Team meetings are held every Thursday morning before work and provide an environment to brainstorm and share information. Time is also taken to recognise a special contribution to the team each week.

WE MAKE THE SALON A FUN AND INSPIRING PLACE TO BE Team-building activities play a regular and enjoyable part in our calendar – everyone throws themselves into the spirit of the occasion. All kinds of outings to trade events and award ceremonies are organised on a regular basis, with the team members often going off to them in a limo. “Fellowship Day” is Q’s ultimate team-building day, dedicated entirely to the team and involving guest speakers at a local exclusive venue, where we announce our team awards. We do an annual trip to Salon International, which helps to broaden horizons and provides a vision of future potential. Q’s group Facebook page has also proved enormously popular. Here, team members are encouraged freely to share thoughts and dreams as well as swap information and ideas. The annual Christmas client event brings team Q together to celebrate the festive season with the salon’s guests. Q even has an official “director of fun” who sets up an annual social calendar of events with a small band of helpers. These have included team events such as baby showers, collecting Easter eggs and toys for a local women’s refuge, a cycle challenge and so much more!

We run a book club whereby a book is suggested and team members get together to discuss it. All big birthdays are celebrated with team members only – no friends or family. The local gym has given us use of a drama studio to teach members salsa. As well as a summer barbecue and Christmas do, “zorbing”, movie nights, and a picnic in the park are planned. WE PUT OURSELVES AT THE HEART OF OUR COMMUNITY We encourage our team to get involved in a wide variety of events and activities to help raise funds for local charities and organisations. For example we recently held a “Superheroes” fundraising fun day at the salon. Q stylists and beauty therapists made sure the 14 amateur models were beautifully turned-out – and three of the Q team also volunteered to take to the catwalk. Much of the past year, too, was dominated by a massive and unique challenge that really motivated and brought the team together: a series of fundraising efforts to raise a staggering £6,000 to enable our popular administrator, Gina, to fund IVF treatments to enable her to have a muchlonged-for child.

Nov/Dec 2015 | salonfocus

Your salon, your people: getting appraisals right

TEAMTALKING IN A BUSY SALON IT CAN BE HARD TO MAKE TIME TO HOLD REGULAR PERFORMANCE APPRAISALS. BUT IF YOU WANT TO GET THE BEST FROM YOUR STAFF, IT’S VITAL YOU GET THEM IN THE DIARY, SAYS KEN WEST, DIRECTOR OF SALON BUSINESS COACHING FIRM 365HAIR.COM. Ken West

Your salon, your people: getting appraisals right

coaching salon W hen owners I am often

asked: “How do I manage underperforming team members and what performance goals should I set them?” In a people-centred business like hairdressing and barbering it’s the skills and performance of your people, day in and day out, that will determine whether your salon is a success or not. One way to ensure you’re getting a consistently great performance out of your team is to hold regular performance appraisals. It can be hard in the busy day-to-day salon environment to remember to make the time to do this, but it is nevertheless vital. Here are some practical tips that can help improve your appraisal technique. AN APPRAISAL ISN'T JUST A CHAT. But at the same time it doesn’t have to be a scary, confrontational “pull up your socks or get out” performance conversation either. MAKE IT REGULAR. An appraisal should take place at least once a year, but ideally every six months. It needs to be something planned for and fixed in the diary – with the date agreed between the two of you well in advance. DO NOT DISTURB. An appraisal needs to take place somewhere you’re not going to be distracted, interrupted or overheard. You want the environment to be informal and positive but also, if need be, one where you can both be frank. FOCUS ON THE POSITIVE. An appraisal should be a positive process, focused on things the employee can do to improve and get better. It’s not the moment to spring a “we’ve got a problem” surprise. If you have a performance issue, don’t store it up for the appraisal but deal with it as it arises. PLAN IT, AND GET THE EMPLOYEE INVOLVED. Before the meeting sit the employee down and explain how it is going to work and what you’ll be looking to discuss. Encourage them to go away and have a think about things they’d like to raise or discuss – goals, aspirations,

things they want to get better at, new skills they’d like to learn, responsibility they’re keen to take on and so on. STRUCTURE YOUR DISCUSSION. It’s often a good idea to start with some positive feedback and praise – perhaps how they’ve been building up their column, or if they dealt well with a difficult client or an intensely busy day. This helps everyone to relax. LET THEM TALK. Invite the employee to “self-appraise” or outline how they feel they’re doing and areas where they feel they could improve. MAKE IT ABOUT PERFORMANCE NOT PERSONALITY. However tempting, keep the discussion focused on performance, not personality. Even if there are ways the employee is acting or behaving you feel could be improved, relate it to how it’s affecting the team or salon performance rather than making it personal. MAKE SURE YOU BACK THINGS UP WITH EVIDENCE. If you do have areas you want the employee to improve on, highlight specific events rather than a vague “well you can be a bit abrupt at times” or whatever it is. You may find there are specific issues – a lack of confidence or training for example – behind a “problem”. SET “SMART” GOALS. “Smart” means: Specific, Measurable, Achievable, Resultsfocused and Timed. So, if you’re giving someone a set of goals for the next six months make sure each is “Smart”. This will give them something tangible to work towards. It is important the employee understands their goals and has agreed they are realistic and achievable. If there are things you agree you need to do – such as maybe sorting out some extra training or coaching – make sure you deliver on your side of the bargain. Make sure, too, you get a date for the next meeting into the diary. Ken will be speaking on the NHF business stage at Hair Congress (formerly Hair Professional), part of Professional Beauty, London, on 29 February at 11am. For more details go to haircongress.com

UNDERSTANDING GOAL SETTING

There are two basic types of performance goal – consequential and aspirational – and it is worth understanding the difference between them. A consequential goal is one where it is made clear that unless the person achieves X then Y will happen. An aspirational goal is one where the discussion is framed around when you achieve X then Y will happen. A consequential goal is therefore one where you’re more likely to be tough with your employee. It could be, for example, setting a minimum number of clients they have to get for their column or a specific monthly retail target. But just because it’s tough doesn’t mean it has to be negative. Consequential goals can be hugely motivational, especially if it’s about you showing belief in their ability, you helping them to reach a potential they hadn’t believed possible. It can be about “tough love”; giving them the self-confidence, resilience and self-belief they need. An aspirational goal, however, is generally more positive, in that you’re encouraging people to stretch themselves for themselves, to do and learn new things, and rewarding them for doing so. Whichever goal you focus upon you need to make them “Smart”, as outlined left. It is also vital neither is based upon emotion. They must be based upon hard facts that both sides – you and employee – recognise and accept. This takes the emotion out of managing performance as well as giving your employees clearly defined goals and career options to aim for; goals and ambitions they “own” and which are in their control.

Nov/Dec 2015 | salonfocus

Resolving disputes

KEEPING YOUR CLIENT SATISFIED

IF NOTHING ELSE READ THIS

NEW LAWS CAME INTO FORCE LAST MONTH GIVING CLIENTS MORE ‘RIGHTS’ TO COMPLAIN OR ASK FOR THEIR MONEY BACK. SALONFOCUS LOOKS AT WHAT IT MEANS. rom 1 October a new law, the Consumer Rights Act 2015, came into force in England and Wales, giving clients greater powers to complain if they feel their salon or any other business has not provided a “reasonable” service.

The change has been described as one of the biggest shake-ups in consumer law in a generation. What this means, first and foremost, is it will now be absolutely vital salons have a clear, written complaints policy in place. This shouldn’t just be kept hidden away on a shelf either, but actively communicated to staff so they know what to do, and what procedure to follow in the event of a complaint. COMPLAINTS GUIDANCE As NHF chief executive Hilary Hall has pointed out, the Federation can help. “We’ve taken the heat out of this for NHF members, with guidance on how to handle complaints – always a difficult topic – plus a template complaints policy for salons to use.” The good news is this new Act hopefully shouldn’t lead to a sudden surge

salonfocus | Nov/Dec 2015

in salons being in “dispute” with clients and then dragged through the courts. Why? Two reasons. First, while consumers are getting more powers (see panel), hairdressing, barbering and beauty are already focused on “service”, much more so than many other industries. Nine times out of 10, salons will already able to sort out complaints well before they escalate to a “dispute”. Second, alongside the new Act, the government has made it compulsory for businesses unable to resolve a dispute within eight weeks to offer the client access to what’s called Alternative Dispute Resolution (ADR). MEDIATION SERVICE This is a new network of mediation services set up to work with small businesses to try to ensure disputes don’t make it as far as the courts. In fact, courts will now look less favourably on cases where there has not been an attempt to resolve the complaint beforehand through an ADR service, so it is going to be in the interest of the person complaining to try this first. Using an ADR service means a professional mediator sits down with both client and salon to listen to both sides and try to hammer out a compromise agreeable to both. Once agreed, this becomes legally

• A new Consumer Rights Act has given clients more “rights” complian • It makes it even more important a salon has a written, well communicated, complaints policy • If a complaint can’t be resolved within eight weeks, it can be referred to a new Alternative Dispute Resolution (ADR) mediation service • The NHF has a guide on handling complaints, a template policy and a deal with an ADR provider

binding and therefore removes the need to go to court. It’s worth bearing in mind that you don’t have to agree to take a dispute to mediation, although you will need to be able to show a court that your refusal was “reasonable”. REACH AGREEMENT What is compulsory is you will have to tell clients where and how to find an ADR service after the eight-week cut-off. However, the NHF has moved fast on this. It has negotiated a “pay as you go” service for NHF members with a certified ADR provider called Small Claims Mediation. Jo Holland, chief executive of Small Claims Mediation, explains: “The role of the mediator is not to adjudicate but to encourage all parties to calmly consider the dispute, expectations and commercial interests, and weigh up the strengths and weaknesses of both perspectives with a view to facilitating a fair compromise.” Jo will be speaking on the NHF business stage at Hair Congress (formerly Hair Pro Live), part of Professional Beauty, London, on 29 February at 3pm. For more details go to professionalbeauty.co.uk FIND OUT MORE The NHF’s Guide to Customer Complaints can be found at nhf. info/complaints/

Resolving disputes

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

WHAT THE CONSUMER RIGHTS ACT SAYS A client can ask you to repeat or fix a service if it’s not carried out with “reasonable” care and skill, or ask to get some money back if you can’t fix it. If you haven’t agreed a price upfront, what the client is asked to pay must also be “reasonable”. If you haven’t agreed a time upfront, the service must be carried out, again, within a “reasonable” time. Under the Act, complaints will need to be resolved within eight weeks. If the complaint has not been resolved in that time through your own salon complaints procedure, you must provide the client with details of a certified Alternative Dispute Resolution (ADR) provider. HOW ‘MYSTERY SHOPPING’ COULD HELP Using a “mystery shopping” service where your salon is visited by an expert posing as a real customer can be a valuable way for a salon owner to “experience” what their clients do when they visit the salon. This can help you to get a better handle on the sort of service clients are receiving and areas that may need to be looked at. It’s not, in itself, going to mean you never get a complaint from a client. But the more you can “see” your salon through the eyes of your clients, the more chance you have of ensuring they have nothing to complain about. The NHF offers a mystery shopping service to members, either a £250 “expert” mystery shopper visit – which is carried out by someone with a background in the industry – or a £99 “customer” visit. Mystery shopper provider Hidden Beauty is an affiliate member of the NHF and offers a mystery shopping service at preferential rates for NHF members. It can be contacted on 01829 730662 or email: mysteryshopping@ hiddenbeautyuk.com. Hidden Beauty’s Angela Bartlett will be speaking on the NHF business stage at Hair Congress (formerly Hair Professional), part of Professional Beauty, London, on 29 February at 2pm. For more details go to haircongress.com

T E ST I N G

TIMES THE NHF HAS PUBLISHED A NEW GUIDE TO ANSWER SALONS’ QUESTIONS ABOUT ALLERGY ALERT AND COLOUR TESTING. SALONFOCUS TOOK A LOOK INSIDE.

NHF'S NEW ALLERGY GUIDE: ANSWERS YOUR QUESTIONS

Allergy Alert Consultation and Colour Record Cards

ince their launch in 2013, thousands of salons have used the NHF’s ground-breaking Allergy Alert Consultation and Colour Record Cards. Now a new guide has been published bringing together answers to the common questions salons have had around allergy alert testing and using colour safely.

The Allergy Alert Consultation and Colour Record Cards were developed by the NHF in conjunction with the Freelance Hair Association (FHA), the Cosmetic, Toiletry & Perfumery Association (CTPA), the Hair Council and insurers. They allow salons to monitor when a client last had an allergy alert test and whether a repeat test is therefore required. They can be used by salons with Salonsure policies from Coversure Insurance Services. If you have any other policy you must check with your insurer whether the card is approved by their underwriters. VALUE OF TESTING Salons have said the cards have proved extremely useful. But, as regular questions kept arising, the NHF has now brought out an updated Guide to Allergy Alert Testing and Colour Products answering some of your key questions. These include:

Q A Q A

Does the test have to be done exactly 48 hours in advance?

It must be done at least 48 hours in advance, up to a maximum of five days. Can hair dye cause cancer?

No. Hair colourants for hairdressers and consumers are safe and have been extensively assessed for safety. No link has been found between the use of hair colourants and any type of cancer.

Q A

Should I wear gloves to apply hair colourants?

Yes. This is advisable mainly because it prevents hands getting stained and protects against dermatitis, not because it is unsafe to get hair colourant on your hands.

Q A

Is it OK to colour hair if a customer is pregnant or breastfeeding?

Yes. Just ask the questions on the card as you would normally would to decide whether or not you need to do an Allergy Alert Test. Bear in mind, though, some women can be concerned about colouring their hair at this time and so, for their peace of mind, even though there are no safety concerns in itself, it may be better to avoid having their hair coloured.

Q A

Are my staff covered to use the record cards?

Yes. All trained/qualified staff are covered if you have the Salonsure scheme. But chair renters or freelance staff will need to check with their own insurance provider.

Q A

What about eyelash or eyebrow tinting?

If the eyelash or eyebrow product recommends an Allergy Alert Test be performed, then the questionnaire approach can also be used. You will still need to ask the questions as set out on the card to decide whether you need to do a test. As always, if you are not sure then do a test, following manufacturers’ instructions.

If someone uses a home colouring kit is it true they have to throw away the hair dye after doing an allergy alert test and buy another one to do the treatment?

No. It’s fine to use the same product (even if it has been opened) after 48 hours, provided the individual has not reacted to the test.

Q A

Where can I find out more?

The guide is available to download, free to members, at nhf.info/nhfguides. The Allergy Alert Consultation and Colour Record Card is available free of charge in packs of 100, plus £4.50 postage and packing, available from the NHF shop or by calling 01234 831965. In a further development, the questions on the cards have also been included within salon software provided by SALONGENIUS.

‘HENNA’ TATTOO WARNING The Cosmetic, Toiletry & PerfumeryAssociation (CTPA) has backed a warning by dermatologists over the dangers of “black henna” tattoos. The British Skin Foundation has said its members are seeing an increase in patients with skin reactions from such temporary tattoos, many of them children, as well as a rise in patients suffering a subsequent allergic reaction to hair dye. Often the tattoos are not based on black henna at all but paraphenylenediamine (PPD), which is legal to be used in the EU in hair dyes but is subject to strict controls, and not for skin contact products. When PPD is used on the skin it can cause blistering, painful skin burns and may even lead to scarring. It can also cause lifelong sensitivity to PPD, so increasing the risk of a severe allergic reaction when using hair dye in the future. Christopher Flower, of the CTPA, said: “The message is clear: having a ‘black henna’ temporary tattoo presents a significant risk of a very nasty adverse reaction to the tattoo itself. It also increases the risk of either not being able to use most hair dyes in the future or having a bad reaction to them if the warnings are ignored.”

Nov/Dec 2015 | salonfocus

Technology

STEPS TO GOING CO N TAC T L E SS

CONTACTLESS PAYMENT BY CARDS, MOBILES, WEARABLES AND KEY FOBS IS BECOMING EVER MORE POPULAR. IS IT NOW TIME YOUR SALON OFFERED IT?

rom last month (October) the limit for contactless transactions was raised from £20 to £30.

This means contactless is still – for now at least – below what many salons would expect to charge for ladies hairdressing. But it also means that for a lot of barbering, beauty treatments and standalone retail transactions, contactless is becoming an increasingly viable option. And more and more shoppers now expect to be able to pay this way. The UK Cards Association, the trade body for the card payments industry, has estimated spending using contactless, normally via contactless-enabled cards, smartphones, key fobs or wearable devices, has shot up in the past six months. It has also published a practical guide for small businesses thinking of making the transition to accepting contactless payment. This, for example, points out that clients can technically already carry out contactless transactions worth more

salonfocus | Nov/Dec 2015

than £30 if they’re paying with a device (normally a smartphone) that allows them to authenticate the transaction. These are known as “higher value contactless payments”. Authentication in this context normally means putting in a passcode or fingerprint identification – but only, of course, if your salon has the right device to accept this sort of payment.

2. If not, you'll need to think about replacing, upgrading or adding to your technology. If your terminal doesn’t accept contactless, you’ll need to go back to your terminal provider. It should be a relatively simple question of replacing or upgrading the device through your provider or getting an add-on contactless reader to sit alongside your existing terminal.

TRAINING AND MARKETING The guide covers topics such as what contactless is and how it works, the sort of training you need to offer staff, how to market and promote the fact you accept contactless and how to deal with any security concerns. But it also sets out the practical steps you will need to think about. Assuming you already accept card payments, and therefore already have some form of payment terminal in place, it advises the following seven steps.

3. Consider the different options. It’s worth doing some research into what sort of model is going to best suit your salon. An add-on reader is probably the simplest option, but you might want to think about whether you want a mobile device that can move around the salon or a more sophisticated fully integrated point-of-sale system.

1. Check whether your existing terminal can accept contactless. Look for the “Contactless” symbol .

4. Check what cards it will take, and that it shows this clearly to the customer. This is pretty self-evident. But it is also worth speaking to the provider to check what surfaces the terminal is able to sit on, as some terminals can be affected by metallic surfaces.

‘DON’T GET LEFT BEHIND’ CONSUMERS INCREASINGLY EXPECT TO BE ABLE TO PAY VIA CONTACTLESS, WRITES DAVID MAISEY, MANAGING DIRECTOR AT CHIP & PIN SOLUTIONS. DAVID MAISEY

From January 2016 contactless card terminals will become the industry standard, therefore all new card machines from this date will support contactless technology. This makes it the perfect time for any business not using contactless to jump on board and get started. Once your business is able to offer contactless, it can be a good idea to promote this at the checkout. Store adverts and signage can help raise awareness and drive sales via the new payment method. Implementing employee training can also be valuable in order to ensure customer service is delivered to the highest standard. These three simple steps will enable your business to compete and flourish within the marketplace.

5. Make sure you’ve got a reliable authorisation connection. This could be via broadband, down your phone line or via a satellite internet line. 6. Think if you want to accept higher value contactless payments. To do this, your terminal will, naturally, need to be able to accept conventional contactless. It is worth getting advice from your terminal provider on this. 7. Don’t forget to link it to a fast receipt printer. Your client, obviously, needs a receipt even though the transaction is contactless. But, given that contactless is also normally extremely fast, they are unlikely to want to hang about waiting.

FIND OUT MORE The full pdf guide, which is free to download, can be found at theukcardsassociation.org. uk. Click on the “Contactless” tab and then go to “Retailers”.

SET YOUR

SALON

TO BEAN OR

APART NOT TO BEAN

THE SALON EXPERIENCE IS ABOUT SO MUCH MORE THAN A GREAT LOOK. STARTING A NEW SERIES, SALONFOCUS LOOKS AT ‘STUFF’ – GADGETS, EQUIPMENT, KIT – THAT COULD HELP SET YOUR SALON APART. TO START: THE COMMERCIAL COFFEE MAKER.

WHAT IS IT? Salon coffee machines these days come in an array of shapes, sizes, models and functionality. A coffee maker can mean anything from a basic filter coffee pot right up to a “bells and whistles” restaurant-quality machine. TELL ME MORE A high-end coffee vending machine can be a quick and easy way to make an impact with clients, offering something a bit more special than a cup of warm, milky instant. Depending on make and model, it means you can offer the “bean-to-cup” freshly ground “barista” coffees – latte, espresso, cappuccino, mochaccino etc – clients increasingly expect. It will mean your stylist/ junior doesn’t have to spend time mucking about with kettle, coffee, milk and sugar. With pushbutton functionality it is likely to be considerably faster – delivering in seconds – than the average junior, as well as more consistent in quality. WHAT DO I NEED TO THINK ABOUT? Many machines are very compact these days, but if space is at a real premium you will need to think where it’s going to go in the salon. You will also need to consider whether you’re going to go for a plumbed-in or water container option (which will probably need to be filled by hand). It’s worth asking how the milk works. With many machines it’s just a question of pouring in normal

refrigerated milk by hand, but it’s worth checking. An espresso machine will also steam the milk. Think, too, if you want to go for a machine that offers both tea and coffee. As coffee is normally dispensed at a slightly lower temperature than tea, don’t just assume it will do both. Vendors often calculate what machine is right for you on the basis of how many drinks you serve an hour. So, while any new kit is exciting, think how many cups you’re really likely to make (and bear in mind this could go up now you’ve got a shiny new coffee maker). WHAT’LL IT SET ME BACK? Naturally it’s going to vary. You can spend as little as a couple of hundred up to four figures. You will normally also have the option to rent or lease, which can come in at around the £10-15 a week mark. Within this calculation, of course, you will need to factor in whether you’re going to offer this as a free benefit to clients or not. Don’t be afraid to compare and contrast specialist vendor prices with high street chains such as John Lewis. Don’t be afraid, too, to ask about deals or introductory offers. Some vendors, for example, will provide starter packs including branded crockery, condiments, stirrers and things like a chocolate shaker, which can give your coffee area a polished, more professional feel. Ask, too, about extras like biscuits, table menus, window stickers or posters, as many vendors do also provide these. CONVINCE ME: sip, slurp, mmm…

You can let your hair down too... when it comes to patch testing with Salonsure. There is no need to patch test every time you colour with Salonsure. Members have more flexibility as they can use the National Hairdressersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Federationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s colour record cards instead of allergy testing before every treatment.

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17/08/2015 12:45:03

Q&A LEGAL LIFELINE Members with a business, legal or employment question can call the Legal Lifeline on 01234 831965 or email enquiries@nhf.info. Employment-related support is available 24/7 and advice on commercial issues 9am-5pm Monday-Friday.

YOUR

QUESTIONS embers in October wanted guidance on how to manage a newly pregnant stylist and advice on a potentially serious breach of allergy testing procedures.

I have owned my salon for just over a year and have three staff. One of my stylists has just told me that she is six weeks pregnant. I have never had a pregnant employee before and I am unsure what to do as her employer.

Given that she has to work with chemicals and there are other potential hazards in the workplace for her, the first thing to do is to carry out, as soon as possible, a “new and expectant mother” risk assessment for her job. This should be reviewed regularly throughout her pregnancy, ensuring risks identified to her or the baby are eliminated or reduced wherever possible. She will be entitled to paid time off work for antenatal appointments, to attend any classes or appointments she has been advised to take. She should not be asked to attend these outside normal working hours. After her first appointment you can ask for proof of

salonfocus | Nov/Dec 2015

future appointments if you want. You will need to calculate if she is entitled to Statutory Maternity Pay or Maternity Allowance. Additionally, you will need to advise her of her entitlements in relation to Maternity and Shared Parental leave and “keeping in touch” days in writing. She will need to confirm to you when she wishes her maternity leave to commence. You will need to write back to her within 28 days.

We have had a complaint from a client who had an allergic reaction to a hair colouring our salon provided. The client is very upset and we are worried about the potential impact it may have on our salon. We have investigated and it appears the allergy test did not take place. All our staff are aware it is salon policy they complete one every time they colour a client’s hair. We have identified who the stylist is who failed to follow the procedure. We want to discipline her but are not sure how to, and what level of sanction would be appropriate.

You have already begun the first steps of a disciplinary process, as you have started an investigation. This now needs to be extended to include the stylist in question and any other

witnesses to the event. You will need to appoint an investigating officer to collect evidence and ascertain whether there is a disciplinary case to answer. This should be someone uninvolved with the issue and ideally working at a level above the stylist, such as a manager. If it is clear there is a case to answer the investigation should then be passed to a disciplining officer. This should be a different person to the investigating officer but ideally working at the same level of seniority. The disciplining officer will call a properly constituted disciplinary meeting. In relation to sanctions, it will be dependent on what you have already communicated to your employees about following the salon’s allergy test procedure. If you made it clear you would consider a failure to follow the procedure a gross misconduct issue, then summary dismissal may be one of the potential sanctions you could consider. But you do need to be sure she would have been aware of the seriousness of failing to follow the procedure. This, in turn, will help to show whether there is any mitigation in relation to this case that could lessen the sanction.

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Events

BOOKINGS Anyone interested in attending events should contact the NHF team on 01234 831965 or events@nhf. info. Bookings can be made online at nhf.info/events

BUSINESS EVENTS SHARPEN UP YOUR KNOWLEDGE, AND MAKE YOUR SALON MORE SUCCESSFUL, BY COMING ALONG TO ONE OF THE NHF’S POPULAR BUSINESS EVENTS. HOW TO MAKE YOUR SALON MORE PROFITABLE 02 November – Milton Keynes 09 November – York HOW TO MAKE YOUR SALON MORE PROFITABLE (FOLLOW-ON) 30 November – Basingstoke HOW TO DELIVER A GREAT CLIENT EXPERIENCE 23 November – Edinburgh TRICHOLOGY STARTER SESSION 09 November – Warrington

ARTISTIC EVENTS 01

RISE AND SHINE ENTRIES ARE NOW OPEN FOR THE 2016 CHRISTOFER MANN ‘STEP UP & SHINE’ SCHOLARSHIP.

NOVEMBER Welsh Hairdressing Awards, Cardiff

NOVEMBER Britain’s Best, Heritage Motor Centre, Warwickshire

NOVEMBER East Midlands region trip to Wella Studios and Christmas markets, Manchester

PENSION EVENTS UNDERSTANDING AUTO-ENROLMENT 02 November – Plymouth

NEXT YEAR'S EVENTS Look out for the January/February edition of salonfocus, where we will be revealing full details of the NHF’s exciting new programme of business events for 2016.

salonfocus | Nov/Dec 2015

ow’s the chance for one of your stylists to win education, training and mentoring worth £2,500 – by entering the 2016 Christofer Mann ‘Step Up & Shine’ Scholarship.

The closing date for entries is 12 February, and the winner will be announced at the Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s glittering President’s Night. Now in its third year, the Step Up & Shine Scholarship was set up in memory of industry legend Christofer, who was a passionate believer in grass-roots salon hairdressing and education.

The 2015 winner (above) was Sophie Freegard of Tops Hair and Beauty in Wiltshire, who has since completed a course with industry mentor Debbie G and spent three days at the prestigious boutique salon Billi Currie in London. “Debbie G has been such a support to me. And I loved my three days at Billi Currie; I learnt so much and already feel more confident,” Sophie says. HOW TO ENTER To enter, all you have to do is submit a one-minute video on why you feel you should win the scholarship, and why you feel the training it offers will benefit your career. For more information go to nhf.info/events/ competitions/step-up-and-shine/

THE NHF TALKS BUSINESS! Check out the NHF’s business stage at Professional Beauty’s Hair Congress, formerly Professional, on 28-29 February 2016. There will be full details of the two-day programme in the January/February edition of salonfocus, but if you can’t wait visit haircongress.com or contact the NHF team on 01234 831965 or events@nhf.info.

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