Salonfocus September - October 2015

ÂŁ3.50 Sept/Oct 2015

The essential magazine for salon owners

ADDING

AFRO SALONS NEED TO STOP FEARING AFRO-CARIBBEAN HAIR

12

HMRC targeting industry over minimum wage

14

Older salon staff to get new National Living Wage

32

Are we seeing the death of the Saturday job?

Perfection, refined.

London Head Office / Showroom: T: +44 (0)20 7515 0333 E: hairdressing@takara.co.uk

#tbuk www.takarahairdressing.co.uk

Adria II

Contents

C O E I G H T PAGE

AFRO

N

T

E

N 24

CARIBBEAN

SPECIAL

3

T S P6 NEWS Pay in the spotlight P12-17 MIN WAGE FOCUS All you need to know about HMRC campaign and the new National Living Wage P18 MAY THE BEST WIN How Britain’s Best could benefit your salon P20 PHOTO FINISH Time is running out to enter this year’s Photographic Stylist of the Year competition

18

28

P22 IN THE CHAIR With award-winning AfroCaribbean hairdressing salon owner Calvin Rattray P24-31 AFROCARIBBEAN HAIR SPECIAL REPORT Why offering AfroCaribbean hair services is not only good business, it’s the right thing to do

30

32

P32 DEATH OF THE SATURDAY JOB? School pressure is turning teenagers away from Saturday jobs P34 BEARD GAMES It’s the changing economy, rather than changing fashions, that determine whether beards are more or less popular, academics have suggested P36 YOUR QUESTIONS P38 EVENTS

CONNECT WITH US AND HAVE YOUR COMMENTS AND TWEETS IN THE NEXT ISSUE OF SALONFOCUS Sept/Oct 2015 | salonfocus

4

Welcome

PRESIDENT’S

L E T T E R e all know that being a “good” salon means offering a great professional service, great value for money and a great client experience.

W SALONFOCUS IS PUBLISHED BY: National Hairdressers’ Federation, One Abbey Court, Fraser Road, Priory Business Park, Bedford MK44 3WH t: +44 (0) 1234 831965 f: +44 (0) 1234 838875 e: sfenquiries@salonfocus.co.uk w: www.nhf.info PUBLISHER Hilary Hall e: hilary.hall@nhf.info EDITOR Nic Paton e: sfeditor@salonfocus.co.uk EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Bianca Mulligan t: +44 (0) 1234 834385 e: sfeditor@salonfocus.co.uk ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER Andy Etherton T: + 44 (0) 1536 527297 e: andy.etherton@nhf.info DESIGN AND PRODUCTION Rick Fraterrigo Matrix Print Consultants Ltd t: +44 (0) 1536 527297 e: rick@matrixprint.com COVER IMAGE: INGRID FARRELL OF SPECIALIST AFRO-CARIBBEAN HAIR SALON SILK TRENDS IN CHINGFORD, ESSEX. POST PHOTOGRAPHIC While every care is taken in compiling this issue of salonfocus including manuscripts and photographs submitted, we accept no responsibility for any losses or damage, whatever the cause. All information and prices contained in advertisements are accepted by the publishers in good faith as being correct at the time of going to press. Neither the advertisers nor the publishers accept any responsibility for any variations affecting price variations or availability after the publication has gone to press. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the permission of the publisher, to whom application must first be made. The views expressed by contributors to salonfocus are not necessarily those of the NHF, the publisher or its editor. © 2015 The National Hairdressers’ Federation.

But it should mean offering this to your whole community – to all clients, whatever their hair type.

It doesn’t make sense for salons to turn business away because they are unable ABOUT PAUL or unwilling to serve the needs of one Paul Curry is president of the NHF and a registered significant part of their community – hairdresser. For the past 25 years he has run Studio 12 people with Afro-Caribbean or curly hair. in York, a busy high street With the rise of mixed race hair, there is salon that faces exactly the same challenges and a growing need for salons to learn more pressures as the majority of NHF members. about different hair types.

The “fear factor” leads salons to think AfroCaribbean hair is too “complex”, too specialised.

As we show in this edition, it’s not. Working with AfroCaribbean hair just requires slightly different skills and a slightly different approach.

Salons, colleges and educators all need to work together to put this right, and we at the NHF are looking at ways we can help too. Britain is increasingly diverse; our skills should reflect that.

Material for consideration in this section of the magazine should be submitted via email or digital file transfer to the editor, salonfocus. Submissions should be made on the understanding that the National Hairdressers’ Federation has the right to use the material in any part of the magazine and any of its other publications, promotions or website, free from any copyright restrictions, or appearance fees other than the issue of artistic and photographic credits where applicable. Please include salon name, photographer and stylist.

PAUL CURRY NHF president

COMING UP IN NOV/DEC

THE 'PEOPLE' EDITION How to inspire and motivate your team, every day

Celebrating the assistant manager

Ways to keep control of team meetings

Holding “difficult” conversations

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2015

Are you passionate about people issues? Would you like to be featured in salonfocus? Get in touch with the team, on 01234 834385, or email sfeditor@salonfocus.co.uk

Dependable, reliable and fast. And part of the team for the price of one cut and colour a month.

Our compact and powerful range of commercial washers and dryers are perfect for busy hair salons, providing fast turnaround and fantastic results, every time.

Rent a pair of our Little Giants for a fixed term cost every month - including servicing, breakdowns and warranty - and you can enjoy the benefits of fast, high quality performance with peace of mind ownership and budgetable costs.

Contact us on the number below to find out more.

Built to last, built to impress. Quality and endurance tested for 30,000 cycles, Miele Professional’s reliability and high quality ensures trouble free ownership as well as consistent results your customers will love.

Fast wash cycles. Wash and drying cycles of just 53 and 37 minutes mean that up to 150 towels can be beautifully washed and dried in a ten hour day.

0844 893 0775 miele-professional.co.uk

Compact and stackable. Our compact Little Giant washers and dryers are also stackable creating a footprint of only 1m2, so they and can easily fit into a small room or space.

6

News

HMRC MINIMUM WAGE PROBE

he government has unveiled a major campaign targeting hairdressers, barbers and beauty salons that are failing to pay the National Minimum Wage.

T

From July, HM Revenue & Customs began actively to investigate salons to check they are paying staff their correct wage.

Normally when HMRC identifies that an employer has been paying staff the wrong wage it can lead to the business being publicly “named and shamed” and fined up to £20,000.

But during the campaign salons are being offered an amnesty or breathing space to work with HMRC to put things right without being penalised – but only if they voluntarily come forward.

HMRC is also encouraging employees

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2015

to speak to salon owners if they think they are on the wrong wage.

To help salon owners, the NHF has created a new guide specifically on the minimum wage. This includes details of current and future rates, common “problem” scenarios and mistakes employers often make.

The most common mistakes by salons are forgetting to adjust the pay of older apprentices, using tips to top up pay to the minimum wage (which has been illegal since 2009) and failing properly to take into account deductions for things like uniforms and accommodation.

‘NO EXCUSE’ NHF chief executive Hilary Hall warned: “Now’s the time to get our industry’s pay in order. Once the campaign has ended, HMRC will be throwing the book at salon owners who continue to break the law. Ignorance will not be an excuse.”

Jennie Granger, director general of enforcement and compliance at HMRC, added: “This innovative campaign is about helping employees who have been underpaid get the money they are legally due back in to their pockets.”

The campaign was sparked by a government report last year suggesting hairdressing was by far the worst of any UK industry at paying people their correct minimum wage, (salonfocus, March/April 2015).

The NHF guide can be found at nhf.info/nhf-guides.

If members are concerned they can call the NHF for advice, on 01234 831965.

Alternatively, members can visit gov.uk/NMWcampaign to find out more.

Turn to pages 12-13 to find out about the HMRC campaign.

News

‘DOUBLE WHAMMY’ ON PAY Photograph sourced from Flickr: altogetherfool

Salons are facing a pay “double whammy”, with minimum wage rates going up next month (October) and the introduction of a new compulsory £7.20 an hour National Living Wage for older staff from April next year.

The new living wage was the centrepiece of chancellor George Osborne’s July Budget.

It will mean staff aged 25 or over will have to move on to a new £7.20 an hour rate from April 2016, unless they are earning more than this already.

The government has said it wants this to rise to £9 an hour by 2020.

NHF president Paul Curry warned the cost of the new wage could mean salons having to lay off staff or even being forced to decide whether they can continue in business.

But he also urged salons to ensure they

are making full use of tools such as the Employment Allowance to soften the blow.

The allowance allows small employers to reduce the amount of National Insurance they pay for their employees, and will now double from 2016.

Paul Curry said: “The chancellor made the point in his speech that this change to the Employment Allowance will mean a business employing four people full-time on the new National Living Wage will not have to pay any National Insurance contributions.”

The NHF is reminding salons that existing minimum wage rates are rising from October.

Turn to pages 14-15 to find out about the new National Living Wage and pages 16-17 for how to prepare for October’s minimum wage rate increases.

BUDGET ANNOUNCEMENTS • Introduction of £7.20 an hour National Living Wage for staff aged 25 or over from April 2016 • Doubling of Employment Allowance from £2,000 to £3,000 from 2016, but businesses where the owner is the sole employee can no longer claim it • Corporation tax to reduce from 20% to 18% by the year 2020 • Councils to be given more freedom to decide on local Sunday trading hours • HMRC to gain greater

tax collection powers, including to take money directly from private banks accounts and ISAs • A commitment not to increase income tax, VAT or National Insurance during the course of the current Parliament • Changes to how dividend payments are taxed.

This will mean limited companies where directors are paid through a combination of low salary and high dividend could see tax bills go up significantly

7

HEALTH ADVICE The Royal Society for Public Health has said hairdressers could help to champion and promote health messages, such as a better diet or taking more exercise, to the public.

Chief executive Shirley Cramer said hairdressing was one of a number of occupations where its trusted relationship with the public meant there were “golden opportunities to reinforce and support conversations” about lifestyle and health issues But NHF chief executive Hilary Hall questioned whether clients would genuinely welcome this.

JUST THE TICKET

It’s what many salon owners have long suspected, but scrapping pay-and-display parking may be the secret to revitalising Britain’s high streets, at least if the experience of one Welsh town is anything to go by.

Shopkeepers in the coastal town of Cardigan, north Wales, reportedly have seen a 50% increase in business since parking meters were vandalised, leaving the council with no option but to allow shoppers to park for free.

Sept/Oct 2015 | salonfocus

8

News

ALLERGY

ALARM

TERM ‘APPRENTICESHIP’

TO BE PROTECTED T

raining providers will no longer be able to call in-house courses apprenticeships unless that is what they actually are, as the government is protecting the term “apprenticeship” by law.

The move was announced by the Department for Business, Innovation and Skills in June.

It means if a training provider offers an “apprenticeship”, the training will have to last for at least one year, lead to a recognised qualification and the trainee must be paid either the apprentice wage or their appropriate age-based minimum wage rate.

The decision is designed to ensure

trainees and employers are not misled by poor quality courses marketed as apprenticeships which in fact are not, the government has said.

NEW POWERS Under the new Enterprise Bill the government will also gain extra powers to take action when the term is misused to promote low-quality courses.

The apprentice minimum wage is set to rise from £2.73 an hour to £3.30 an hour from October. But it will still only apply to apprentices aged 16-18 or aged 19 or over and in the first year of an apprenticeship.

Turn to pages 16-17 to find out how to prepare for this October’s increase in minimum wage rates.

CONTRACTS WARNING

Salon owners who employ staff on zero hours contracts should make sure these no longer contain exclusivity clauses, the NHF has said.

The Department for Business, Innovation and Skills has announced zero

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2015

Doctors are seeing an increase in allergic reactions to hair dye among young children.

The warning from the British Association of Dermatologists potentially has implications for the industry as, if hair dye sensitivity is becoming more widespread, it could mean salons will in the future increasingly see clients who are sensitive to allergic reactions.

The study tested 500 children for contact allergies and found they were becoming increasingly sensitised to a range of substances, including various hair dyes.

It is recommended salons should not apply colour to under-16s. The association argued this trend could be down to increased use of home hair dyeing as well as the popularity of black henna tattoos, which can cause an allergic reaction.

hours contracts can no longer contain such clauses, which prevent employees from working elsewhere, even though under a zero hours contract they will not be guaranteed regular work at the salon.

Zero hours contracts are not that common within hairdressing, barbering or beauty pointed out NHF chief executive Hilary Hall.

“But if your salon does use them, it’s now important to check the small print and

remove any exclusivity clauses,” she emphasised.

The NHF provides standard contracts for members free of charge.

For more information on these and other member benefits visit nhf.info.

News

TWITTER FOLLOWERS 7,902

9

FACEBOOK LIKES 11,136

WHAT’S TRENDING WHAT’S THE MOST TEDIOUS HAIR TASK? @Slashhairnet Easy – combing out dreadlocks!

NHF WINS

SOCIAL

MEDIA

AWARD

he energy and activity of the NHF’s social media pages has been recognised by other trade associations, winning the Social Media Award in this year’s prestigious Trade Association Forum awards.

T

The number of NHF Facebook followers has nearly doubled since July 2013 – going from around 6,100 to more than 11,000.

The number of Twitters followers has increased even more rapidly, rising from just over 1,700 to more than 7,900.

The judges also applauded the NHF’s use of an innovative monthly social media schedule to ensure the messages on its various different social media channels are consistent and complement each other, and give the widest benefit to members.

NHF chief executive Hilary Hall said: “Our social media pages have developed considerably over the past few years, we have lots of conversations with members on these platforms and we hope they find it useful as well as enjoyable and interactive.”

The NHF achieved second place in the Membership Success of the Year category, which recognised the Federation’s success in increasing membership numbers despite a challenging economic climate on the high street.

It also won second place in the Publication of the Year category, which highlighted the effectiveness of its 2014 Fighting for You document.

This communicated clearly and simply the various lobbying and campaigning activities the Federation is carrying out on behalf of members.

BROADBAND VOUCHER NHF members are being urged not to miss out on a government scheme that could give them a grant of up to £3,000 for installing high-speed broadband.

Eligibility for the government’s Broadband

Connection Voucher scheme varies depending on whether your local authority is taking part, but there are more than 50 cities and 800 broadband providers that are part of it.

The government has

made £40m available during 2015/16, but vouchers are being issued on a “first come, first served” basis.

Salon owners should visit connectionvouchers.co.uk to check if their area is eligible to apply.

@Cuttingroom24 Blow drying straight curly hair, it looks amazing when you’re done, but it takes time

DO YOU PREFER CUTTING LONGER OR SHORTER HAIR? All Lengths!! Just love cutting – Sue M Short. Really wish I could cut it longer – Julie W

WHAT DOES A GOOD HAIR DAY MEAN TO YOU? @SuperFoodLx Strength and shine keeps us happy! @SThomasSalon Glossy, bouncy and head turning we love bouncy glossy blow drys

JOIN IN THE CONVERSATION

@NHFederation

facebook.com/national hairdressersfederation

Sept/Oct 2015 | salonfocus

the

24/7

RECEPTIONIST In this ever increasing world of technology, a client’s smartphone or tablet is a vital part of the way they organise their life.

How helpful would it be for a client to book an appointment when your salon was closed, or at a time convenient for them? Premier Salon’s online booking could open the doors to your business 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.

Not only does online booking allow you to attract new clients, but also integrates with PayPal™ for a seamless payment process.

Online booking is just one of the ways Premier Salon helps keep your business busy and profitable.

Premier Salon Licence Premier Remote All in One Touch Screen PC Receipt Printer Till Drawer Barcode Scanner Two Days Training Premier Postcode Gift Voucher Tracking 100 Gift Cards 300 Loyalty Tags

Call today for a free demonstration.

Quote AD000347 to benefit from this offer

call: 01543 466580 web: www.premiersalon.co.uk email: hello@premiersalon.co.uk

12

Special pay report: HMRC’s National Minimum Wage campaign

PAY ATTENTION!

THE MINIMUM WAGE IS GOING UP NEXT MONTH, A NEW COMPLIANCE CAMPAIGN IS BEING LAUNCHED AND A NATIONAL LIVING WAGE IS COMING NEXT YEAR. OVER THE NEXT SIX PAGES, SALONFOCUS GUIDES YOU THROUGH THESE MAJOR CHANGES.

n the immortal words of Dad’s Army’s LanceCorporal Jones, “Don’t Panic!” But with three big changes coming through around pay, salons are going to need to be at the top of their game when it comes to ensuring their staff are being paid correctly.

I

Overleaf, on pages 14-15, we’ll look at what the new National Living Wage will mean for salons when it launches next year. After that, on pages 16-17, we’ve set out a handy checklist of things you need to be doing to make sure you’re ready for next month’s increase in the existing National Minimum Wage pay rates.

But, first, as we report in News, HM Revenue & Customs at the end of July launched its campaign specifically targeting hairdressing, barbering and beauty salons that are failing to pay their staff the correct minimum wage.

You may recall the government

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2015

revealed its intention to single out the industry for special action back in February (salonfocus, News, March/April 2015). At that point it was thought the start date could have been as early as March.

However, the General Election put things on hold for a few months and now HMRC is pushing ahead with what is a very significant, targeted campaign, focusing on the industry and offering penalty-free opportunities for employers who have been paying the incorrect wage to put things right.

Here’s what salons need to know…

WHAT'S HAPPENING? Since the end of July, HMRC has been running a high-profile publicity campaign around minimum wage compliance specifically targeting hairdressing and beauty. It is mostly targeting employers, but also employees within the industry.

The good news for salons is that, for now, it is focused on raising awareness, offering education and advice and highlighting the various support tools out there to help salons

ensure they are paying their staff the right minimum wage.

To that end, it is not an enforcement campaign.

However, HMRC will be investigating businesses paying the wrong wage as well as encouraging businesses to engage with it and double-check they are getting it right.

WHAT DO I NEED TO DO? You need to contact HMRC if you have been paying the wrong wage.

This campaign is about giving salons an amnesty or breathing space to get their payroll systems in order. So doing this first step will stop you being liable for any fines.

HMRC will then let you know about any adjustments or extra payment you need to make. But it’s important you don’t just add extra cash to an employee’s pay. It needs to go through your books to ensure you have clearly documented the adjustment in pay.

As part of the campaign, employees are being encouraged to speak with their employers if they think they are on the wrong wage.

Special pay report: HMRC’s National Minimum Wage campaign

So, be prepared for this conversation by making sure you know the rates for each age and for each stage of an apprenticeship.

If you’re unsure the NHF has factsheets and information with the correct rates, or give us a call on 01234 831965 to double check.

WHERE CAN I FIND OUT ABOUT THE CAMPAIGN? The NHF has worked with HMRC on common errors made by salons and published them in its new NHF Guide to the National Minimum Wage, which has been sent by post to all members.

The guide can also be downloaded at nhf.info/nhf-guides.

WHY IS IT TARGETING HAIRDRESSING AND BEAUTY? Largely because the government’s own research has indicated that hairdressing and beauty as an industry is by far the worst of any in the UK at failing to pay staff their correct minimum wage, especially apprentices.

But salon owners need to check for themselves. HMRC has found that

IF YOU’RE ALREADY USING TOOLS LIKE THE NHF’S EMPLOYMENT CALCULATOR, FACTSHEETS AND STANDARD CONTRACTS THAT’S GOING TO HELP. YOU STILL SHOULDN’T BE COMPLACENT, BUT USING THESE TOOLS SHOULD HELP. most employers get it wrong by mistake rather than because they are trying to cheat the system. This is particularly the case for younger staff, as rates can change each year when they next have a birthday.

13

SHOULD I BE WORRIED? As we said at the beginning, Don’t Panic. Think of this campaign as a “Nice cop, nasty cop” routine. At the moment we’re in the “nice cop” phase.

So, in fact it makes sense for salons to use this campaign as an opportunity to double- and triple-check that everything is in order.

If you’re already using tools like the NHF’s employment calculator, factsheets and standard contracts that’s going to help. You still shouldn’t be complacent, but using these tools should help.

It is absolutely vital NHF members (and all salons) keep on top of this.

Because when the education and awareness campaign is over there is likely to be much less tolerance of salons that get it wrong. If you like, we’ll have moved to the “nasty cop” phase.

Remember, too, the government is tightening up the law so that, as well as “naming and shaming”, the maximum fine for failing to pay people their correct wage will rise from £20,000 in total to £20,000 per underpaid worker.

Sept/Oct 2015 | salonfocus

14

Special pay report: the National Living Wage

THE LIVING WAGE

EXPLAINED

THE BIG SURPRISE OF JULY’S BUDGET WAS A NEW ‘NATIONAL LIVING WAGE’ FROM NEXT YEAR. SALONFOCUS LOOKS AT WHAT IT WILL MEAN.

race yourselves, there’s a new £7.20 an hour National Living Wage coming in from next April.

But it may not all be bad news. Here are your key questions answered.

B

WHAT IS THE NATIONAL LIVING WAGE? It is the new compulsory, legal minimum wage for employees aged 25 and over that was announced by chancellor George Osborne in his summer Budget in July. It is being introduced from April 2016.

HOW MUCH WILL IT BE? It will be £7.20 an hour from April 2016. However, the government has said the intention is it will rise to £9 an hour by 2020.

It means all employees aged over25 will from April move from the existing over-21 minimum wage rate (currently £6.50 an hour and rising to £6.70 an hour from next month) to the living wage.

Any employee who has a birthday and turns 25 will, of course, also need to move from the minimum wage to the living wage.

HOW DOES IT RELATE TO THE NATIONAL MINIMUM WAGE? You can see it as, in effect, a new band of the minimum wage for over-25s.

The other existing rates will remain (although they are also going up from next month). The Low Pay Commission

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2015

will recommend to government future increases in the National Living Wage as well as the National Minimum Wage.

It will be enforced in the same way as the National Minimum Wage by HM Revenue & Customs.

WHY HAS THE GOVERNMENT DONE THIS? The idea behind a living wage is the aspiration that, as a society, even workers on the lowest wage should be earning enough money to have a “normal” standard of living.

However, another reason the government has done this is because it wants to curb what the country spends on welfare and benefits.

The chancellor in the Budget announced a range of cuts to tax credits and “in work” benefits. His argument is that, essentially, the state has for too long been subsidising low pay, allowing employers to keep wages low because they know take-home pay will be “topped up” by working age benefits.

The National Living Wage is designed to address this imbalance and to force employers to pay more to their older workers, so the state can pay less.

WHY IS IT SO HIGH? In fact, according to some commentators it is not high enough. The Living Wage Foundation has long been encouraging employers voluntarily to pay a living wage, and has been pressing for the introduction of a National Living Wage.

But it argues the rate should be £7.85 an hour and £9.15 an hour for workers in London.

SO, IS IT ALL BAD NEWS? Clearly, the National Living Wage is going to mean higher wage bills for many salons.

NHF president Paul Curry warned in the wake of the Budget that the decision had the potential to cause “real damage” to the industry.

But, at the same time, salon owners should recognise the new wage will only affect the pay of their older, more established stylists, in other words those who are more likely already to be earning more than the minimum anyway. To that extent, the impact on wage bills for salons may in fact be relatively limited, the Federation has pointed out.

The chancellor also went out of his way to cushion the blow for all small businesses.

First, corporation tax will reduce from its current 20% to 18% by 2020.

Second, the government is increasing the Employment Allowance, which allows small employers to reduce the level of National Insurance contributions they pay.

It will rise by 50% from £2,000 to £3,000 from 2016. The chancellor has argued this will mean a business employing four people full-time on the National Living Wage will not have to pay any National Insurance contributions.

However salons where the owner is the sole employee will now not be able to claim the allowance at all.

More details on how to claim the allowance can be found online at gov.uk/employment-allowance.

Special pay report: the National Living Wage

15

IF NOTHING ELSE READ THIS • The National Living Wage will mean staff aged 25 and over must be paid at least £7.20 an hour from April 2016 • It will rise to £9 an hour by 2020 • However, as it is only for over25s, increases in wage bills may be relatively limited • Salon owners should make full use of the Employment Allowance to cut their National Insurance bill, which will be doubling to £3,000 from April

Sept/Oct 2015 | salonfocus

16

Special pay report: the National Minimum Wage

ARE YOU WAGE READY?

MINIMUM WAGE RATES ARE SET TO RISE STEEPLY FROM OCTOBER. THE GOVERNMENT IS ALSO GETTING EVER TOUGHER WITH FIRMS THAT FAIL TO GET IT RIGHT. SO YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE YOU’VE DONE THESE EIGHT THINGS TO GET YOUR SALON READY.

SPEAK TO YOUR PAYROLL PROVIDER MAKE IT YOUR PERSONAL PRIORITY The government is pushing ahead with its plans to increase the maximum penalty for failing to pay people their correct wage from £20,000 to £20,000 per underpaid worker.

Hairdressing’s poor record in this area also means the industry is firmly in the spotlight. So, even if someone else sorts out your wages, you need to make it your personal priority to ensure your salon is compliant.

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2015

Even if you’re paying an accountant or payroll firm, the buck for getting it wrong still stops with you, not them. So get on the phone or set up a meeting to check they know what’s changing.

Remember, minimum wage rates are broadly age-based, so you need to be sure your system can respond appropriately if someone has a birthday and needs to move to a new rate. Don’t forget to ensure your system is paying casual and parttime staff the correct wage and is taking into account things like staff perhaps being paid a higher rate for weekend, evening or bank holiday work.

REVIEW YOUR STAFF DATA Your payroll system is only as good as the data entered into it. So double-check you have accurate data on all your staff, especially their age and birthday and, of course, salary. If this means physically asking them, do it. This, incidentally, is one of the things you should be doing anyway to prepare for pensions auto-enrolment, so hopefully you will be killing two birds with one stone.

GET HELP We at the NHF are an important first port of call (01234 831965) if you have a query about the minimum wage. Don’t overlook the fact NHF membership offers access to a range of valuable online tools, including an employment calculator for checking minimum wage entitlement.

There is online government guidance at gov.uk/nationalminimum-wage.

Special pay report: the National Minimum Wage

DON’T FORGET OTHER STAFF It’s probably the last thing you want to hear, but if minimum wage staff are seeing their pay go up, don’t forget your other staff.

The NHF has consistently pointed out that raising the minimum wage year after year has had the effect of eroding differences in pay between senior and more junior staff. Obviously, this will come down to a question of what you can afford – and over-25s will now have to move to the new National Living Wage from next April. But losing an experienced stylist because they’ve not had a pay rise will also be costly.

TELL YOUR STAFF

CHECK OFFSETS OR EXCLUSIONS Various offsets, wage deductions or payments can affect minimum wage pay. For example, if you deduct the cost of a uniform or salon tools from an employee’s pay or require them to buy such items, you must make sure this does not take their pay below the minimum wage. It is also worth being aware any accommodation provided by you for an employee can be taken into account when calculating the wage.

THE NEW HOURLY RATES FROM OCTOBER 2015 ADULTS (AGED 21 AND ABOVE) CURRENT FROM OCTOBER CHANGE

£6.50

Getting out on to the salon floor and reminding minimum wage staff their pay will be going up from October can bring two benefits. First, it’ll focus everyone’s minds about getting this right. Second, it’ll send a very clear message – to your staff but also, if it comes to it, to HM Revenue & Customs – that you’re on the ball about the minimum wage and that you’re committed to being a “good” employer. It won’t stop you being fined if you get it wrong, but it’s a definite step in the right direction. Consider, too, sticking up our cut-out-andkeep guide (see below).

UP 20p (3%)

£5.13

REVIEW YOUR CONTRACTS This is more about long-term best practice than short-term hitting the October deadline.

But it is a good idea to state in your employee contracts that staff will be paid the minimum wage. This shows your commitment to being compliant very clearly. The NHF’s standard employee contracts already include this obligation. So use them.

16 – 17 YEAR OLD CURRENT FROM OCTOBER CHANGE

£6.70

18 – 20 YEAR OLD CURRENT FROM OCTOBER CHANGE

17

£3.79 £3.87 UP 8p (2%) APPRENTICE*

CURRENT FROM OCTOBER CHANGE

£2.73 £3.30 UP 57p (21%)

£5.30 UP 17p (3%)

* THE APPRENTICE WAGE WILL CONTINUE TO BE FOR APPRENTICES AGED 16-18 OR AGED 19 OR OVER IN THE FIRST YEAR OF AN APPRENTICESHIP.

Sept/Oct 2015 | salonfocus

Derek Cooknell Photography

18

Britain's Best

MAY THE

BEST WIN ALICE KIRBY, OF LOCKHART MEYER SALON MARKETING, LOOKS AT HOW TO MAXIMISE THE BOOST YOUR SALON CAN GET FROM BRITAIN’S BEST. Alice Kirby

ompetitions have always been a way for hairdressers, barbers and beauty therapists to stand out from the crowd, and I wish every salon entering this year’s Britain’s Best the best of luck.

C

But, while talent will help you win, it’s marketing that will help your salon get the most from the experience. Here’s six things you can do that will make a difference.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

Recognise its value. Winning in a competition like Britain’s Best proves your salon is one of the best around. So, even if you’re really busy in the salon, make it a priority to publicise it to boost your local profile, build your brand and attract new clients.

Don’t wait to win. Being shortlisted is enough to start using it to promote your salon. This way you get two bites of the marketing “cherry” if you go on to win.

Contact your local media. The media loves an upbeat “feel good” local story, so don’t be afraid to be proactive and put yourself forward. If you issue a press release it helps to include an eye-catching high-resolution photograph, plus your contact number.

Shout about your success. Share the story behind your win on your website, social media and email marketing. It’s not being egotistical – it’s good for business! Clients love being associated with success, and potential new clients are more likely to give you a try.

Use the logo. Again, don’t be shy. Make full use of the competition logo in your salon. Recognise you can also use the phrase “awardwinning salon” on all your online and traditional marketing and promotional materials.

Use your win to create a real team spirit. Obviously the stylist who won is going to feel really proud. But make sure it’s also seen as a team effort and a team win, a reflection of all the hard work and high standards everyone puts in every day. Congratulate them on social media, praise them on your website, feature them in a press release.

Hopefully it’ll also inspire others.

What you need to know WHERE AND WHEN IS IT BEING HELD? Sunday 15 November, The Heritage Motor Centre, Gaydon, Warwickshire.

WHAT ARE THE 12 CATEGORIES? Blow Dry n Afro-Caribbean n Short Back and Sides with Beard Trim n Hair-up n Male Fashion Look n Female Fashion Look n The Bride n Bridal Make-up n Fantasy Total Look n Body Art n Nail Art n Colour of the Day

HOW DO I ENTER? Visit britainsbest.me to complete your online application. It requires payment via PayPal. If you don’t have a PayPal account call the NHF team on 01234 831965 to enter. The deadline for entries is Friday 6 November.

WHAT DOES IT COST? For categories that are open to all the fee is £20, for those open just to students and trainees, it is £10. Nail and make-up categories have a £10 entry fee.

WHO ARE THIS YEAR’S SPONSORS? This year’s headline sponsor is specialist hair and beauty qualifications body ITEC, along with SalonGenius and Coversure Insurance Services.

GARETH IS OWNER OF GARETH CLARK HAIR FOR MEN IN DIDCOT, OXFORDSHIRE Gareth Clark

‘IT CREATED A REAL BUZZ’ BEING A PART OF BRITAIN’S BEST CAN BE A GREAT EXPERIENCE FOR YOUR SALON AND YOUR TEAM, SAYS GARETH CLARK. It’s just a great way to raise the profile of your salon. The fact our stylist Clark Butler won the Male Fashion Look category last year was great. He’s got the trophy up on display.

It created a real buzz about the salon; it showed clients what we can do and what we’re all about, how we stand out. The team, too, has been inspired by it.

As an employer it’s also nice that people recognise what you’re putting into your staff and your standards, how you’re training and motivating people. I definitely think it’s worthwhile entering.

20

Photographic Stylist of the Year competition

PHOTO FINISH ime is running out if you want to be part of this year’s NHF’s Photographic Stylist of the Year competition. We need to receive your entries by noon on Friday 18 September.

T

That gives you approximately a fortnight to get your photoshoot sorted and your entry submitted.

We still recommend you plan your shoot carefully and don’t rush things. But now’s the time to really focus in on what you want to create, style and shoot.

Remember, there are four categories this year: • Male and Female Fashion Look Category 1 (open to those working towards Level 3) • Male and Female Fashion Look Category 2 (open to all) • Male and Female Afro-Caribbean Look (open to all) • Male and Female Fashion Collection (open to all) Here’s a reminder of all you need to know about how to enter.

STEP ONE

TAKING YOUR PICTURE(S)

STEP TWO

MALE AND FEMALE FASHION LOOK AND MALE AND FEMALE AFRO-CARIBBEAN LOOK These categories are judged on a single image. Simply create your fashion look and take your picture.

MALE AND FEMALE FASHION LOOK AND MALE AND FEMALE AFRO-CARIBBEAN LOOK Complete the entry form at nhf.info/ photographic, upload your image and make your payment online.

MALE AND FEMALE FASHION COLLECTION We need a collection of images suitable for the front cover of a magazine.

Submit four images (high resolution JPEGs or TIFFs 300dpi minimum).

Think about lighting and layout.

And make sure your photographs are not too dark.

MALE AND FEMALE FASHION COLLECTION Put your four images on a disk or USB stick and post them to the NHF with your completed application form (see address on page four). So build in enough time for this to arrive in time, and check with the Post Office when you send it.

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2015

SUBMITTING YOUR WORK

ENTRY

FEES

• Male and Female Fashion Look Category 1 – £10.00 • Male and Female Fashion Look Category 2 – £15.00 • Male and Female Afro-Caribbean Look – £15.00 • Male and Female Fashion Collection – £30.00 Remember, the deadline for entries is noon on 18 September.

Full terms and conditions can be found at nhf.info/photographic. The winners will be announced at Britain’s Best.

This year’s competition is proudly sponsored by ITEC and Spencer Scissors.

You can let your hair down too... when it comes to patch testing with Salonsure.

There is no need to patch test every time you colour with Salonsure.

Members have more flexibility as they can use the National Hairdressers’ Federation’s colour record cards instead of allergy testing before every treatment.

0800 223 0315 coversure.co.uk/nhf

NHF Advert Halfpage 1.indd 1

17/08/2015 12:45:03

Salon Supplies of Crewe

www.salonsuppliesofcrewe.co.uk Styling Chairs from

£95!

Electric PediSpas from

£945!

Styling Units from

Electric Couches from

£119!

£385!

Backwash Units from

Nail Tables from

£289!

£59!

And much more - We also offer part exchange, please call Hair Line - 01270 848612 Beauty Line - 01270 848535 Prices subject to VAT

22

In the chair

Q&A

CALVIN RATTRAY

CV in a minute › NAME: CALVIN RATTRAY

Photography: Richard Burnett

› CURRENT ROLE: MANAGING DIRECTOR OF MULTI AWARD-WINNING AFRO-CARIBBEAN SALON GROUP HYPE COIFFURE, BASED IN SOUTH LONDON. AS WELL AS WINNING MORE THAN 20 HAIRDRESSING, CUSTOMER SERVICE AND BUSINESS AWARDS, CALVIN’S WORK IS REGULARLY FEATURED IN THE PAGES OF TOP NATIONAL AND INTERNATIONAL TRADE AND CONSUMER MAGAZINES WHILE HIS TEAM FREQUENTLY PERFORMS AT TOP HAIRDRESSING SHOWS.

LONDON PRIDE

Q A

Q

What myths or misconceptions do you feel European salons often have about Afro-Caribbean hair?

Q

A

A

Q

Q

A

A

How is business going locally?

Business has been getting stronger, the green shoots of recovery have well and truly sprouted again. Client numbers have increased and this is having a positive effect on turnover.

Hopefully this is now the way forward!

You are recognised for your expertise in Afro-Caribbean hair.

Why do you think so many European salons shy away from it?

There possibly is an element of fear due to the texture of AfroCaribbean hair, but working with it can mastered with the right training.

It could also be partly to do with the chemical side of services, such as relaxing or perming, which aren’t dayto-day services for most salons. Really the key is training.

salonfocus | Sept/Oct May/June2015 2015

That it breaks easily! It can if you’re not careful, but with the right products and care, Afro-Caribbean hair can be just as pliable as other hair types.

What’s the secret to offering a great Afro-Caribbean hairdressing service?

The same as with all great salons – good customer care, professional products and a well-trained team.

Q A

What hair trends are you seeing into next year?

Natural hair styling, braids and big fat cornrows will be huge trends in the coming months.

If you could go back to your first day in the salon, what advice would you give to your younger self?

Plan for the future and think carefully about long-term growth.

I’d also have advised myself to brush up on my branding and marketing skills!

The expansion of Hype took me by surprise and came from a need rather than planning, so the brand had to catch up.

Q A

What projects are you working on or looking forward to?

Opening a new salon on the other side of the river. We are currently looking for premises in north or west London. Branching out of south London is huge for us, as this is where it all started. It’s the most exciting expansion yet.

WHAT WE OFFER • Flexible business loans tailored for you • Unsecured loans up to £50,000 • Terms up to 24 months • Loan approval in 24 hours

HOW OUR LOANS HELP • Buy new equipment • Purchase stock for your salon • Assistance with cash flow Submit a no obligation application today at www.merchantmoney.co.uk

www.merchantmoney.co.uk - contact@merchantmoney.co.uk - 0800 848 8480

SUNDAY 15 NOVEMBER 2015

HERITAGE MOTOR CENTRE www.britainsbest.me

SOMETHING FOR EVERYBODY!

24

AFRO-CARIBBEAN HAIR SERVICES: THE BUSINESS CASE

DIVERSE

NATION 16% Minority and ethnic groups as a percentage of the UK’s population, 2011

35% Predicted percentage by 2035

3% Percentage of UK population, 2011, that identified as “Black/ African/Caribbean/Black British”

£

£300bn Sources: ONS; Think Ethnic; Mintel

Estimated spending power of UK ethnic minorities

£97m Estimated value of UK market for black and Asian beauty products, 2014

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2015

BRITAIN IS AN INCREASINGLY DIVERSE COUNTRY. SO WHY DO SO MANY SALONS STILL FAIL TO CATER FOR CURLY OR AFRO-CARIBBEAN HAIR TYPES? OVER THE NEXT EIGHT PAGES SALONFOCUS MAKES THE CASE FOR CHANGE.

“ W hen I started Silk Trends eight years

ago there was no other salon offering Afro-Caribbean hair services in Chingford.

Even now, we have clients – even white clients who just have quite tight hair – coming to us because they have been turned away from other local salons.”

For Ingrid Farrell offering Afro-Caribbean hair services isn’t about the colour of your skin or where you or your family once came from, it’s just good business.

Run with her daughter Dionne, Silk Trends is a busy, bustling, award-winning salon and training academy that, Ingrid stresses, caters to all hair types.

“We’re definitely not just about Afro-Caribbean hair.

We offer a wide range of services and cover every hair type.

When I first came here, Chingford was not that mixed as a community. But now it has grown tremendously and it is very diverse,” she explains.

And that’s the rub. For some salons, Afro-Caribbean hair remains something of a mystery, something they don’t feel confident in catering to or dealing with, something that is for “specialist” salons. Perhaps, too, they even feel that because their community isn’t conventionally “urban” it’s not something they need to worry about.

But the fact is Britain is an increasingly diverse nation. As we highlight, it’s predicted minority and ethnic groups will make up as much as 35% of the UK’s population by 2035.

On top of this growth we mustn't forget there are also all

Photography: Post Photographic

Facts and figures

AFRO-CARIBBEAN HAIR SERVICES: THE BUSINESS CASE

25

EIGHT PAGE

A F R O CARIBBEAN

SPECIAL

Sep/Oct 2015 | salonfocus

26

AFRO-CARIBBEAN HAIR SERVICES: THE BUSINESS CASE

the people who maybe don’t even class themselves as being from an ethnic minority but who perhaps have curly or mixed type hair, or it’s their children.

COLLEGE SKILLS Part of the problem, as we highlight on page 28, is that hairdressing education as it is currently structured is letting the industry down. Unless a trainee stylist has a specific interest in learning about Afro-Caribbean or curly hair, they don’t necessarily come out of college with the skill, or understanding, to deal with non-European hair types.

Indeed, as well as training people through her academy silktrends.co.uk/academy, Ingrid now offers private training to local stylists or salon owners with an interest.

It’s early days yet, but the NHF is looking into the feasibility of offering some form of training or workshop for salon owners to give members, and their staff, a basic grounding in, and understanding of, Afro-Caribbean hair types.

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2015

WE HAVE ALWAYS OPENED OUR DOORS TO ALL HAIR TYPES, EUROPEAN AND MIXED HAIR.

Ultimately, as Ingrid makes clear, if salons aren’t catering to the diverse melting pot that is nowadays the average British high street, then not only are they letting their communities down, they’re making a bad business decision.

“We have always opened our doors to all hair types, European and mixed hair. We don’t specifically call ourselves an ‘Afro-Caribbean’ salon, we call ourselves an ‘Afro-European’ salon,” she explains.

AFRO-CARIBBEAN HAIR SERVICES: THE BUSINESS CASE

27

RITA IS OWNER OF SPECIALIST AFRO-CARIBBEAN HAIR SALON ALL HAIR & BEAUTY IN NOTTINGHAM Rita Wiafe

‘SALONS NEED TO BE CATERING FOR EVERYBODY’ SALONS SHOULDN’T THINK OF AFRO-CARIBBEAN HAIR AS MYSTERIOUS. IT IS JUST HAIR, ARGUES RITA WIAFE.

You wouldn’t go to your GP and accept them saying “sorry I don’t know what’s wrong with you, you’ll need to go and see someone else”. Why should it be any different with salons?

It astonishes me when you hear of salons turning people away because they don’t know how, or don’t want, to deal with their hair. It’s good for us, of course, but I strongly feel it’s not good for the industry.

I do think sometimes salons are scared, and that’s partly because Afro-Caribbean hair just isn’t taught enough in college. When I was at college I’d get people coming up to me and asking, “can I touch your hair, can you comb it?”. Often a stylist is afraid they’re going to make a mistake or something is going to go wrong.

Afro-Caribbean hair isn’t a mystery. Once you know what you’re doing it’s really, really easy. Once you’ve got the basic skills it’s like anything else.

Hair is just hair is just hair.

Sometimes salons worry it’s going to take too long and mean they’re not going to be able to make a profit from it. But, again, really, Afro-Caribbean hair is no different from European hair. It is a myth that it takes longer to do or uses more product.

I’ll buy a big can of relaxer for around £50. That’s quite a lot but it’ll do a lot of clients. You can make a good profit from an Afro-Caribbean column. When it comes to things like braiding, you don’t have to use any product at all. So the only cost is your time and electricity.

Sept/Oct 2015 | salonfocus

28

AFRO-CARIBBEAN HAIR SERVICES: THE CASE FOR TRAINING REFORM

MIND THE

(SKILLS) GAP

HOW COLLEGES TEACH AFRO-CARIBBEAN HAIR IS CHANGING, AND ABOUT TIME, SAYS SHELLEY LINES, DIRECTOR OF H.O.B.O (HAIRDRESSING OF BLACK ORIGIN) RECRUITMENT. BUT THERE ARE WAYS TO GIVE YOUR EXISTING STAFF THE SKILLS THEY NEED.

Shelly Lines

f you’re ignoring the needs of people with Afro-Caribbean or mixed hair, then not only are you failing your community and potentially damaging your reputation, you’re missing out on a hugely important business opportunity.

I

Historically, in terms of education, it’s not that hard to see why so many salons are so poor at serving the needs of AfroCaribbean and mixed hair clients.

Traditionally, the units that enabled students to understand Afro-Caribbean hair have only been offered as optional units within training modules.

If a stylist did not take those units, he or she was going to leave college either not knowing, or just not feeling confident, about things like the different hair classifications or the use of relaxers.

That is now changing. The new Habia National Occupational Standards (see panel) coming in this year mean all trainees will now learn about all hair classification types, including AfroCaribbean hair.

So, in fact, we’re going to see a situation in a couple of years time where new learners will be coming into salons potentially knowing about something that the salon owner, or even the more senior stylists, do not know much about.

That will potentially create its own problem if the salon owner dismisses this knowledge or skills as being unimportant, though hopefully most salon owners will be able to see the

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2015

benefit of having someone with this knowledge working for them.

But this of course isn’t going to help a salon owner right now who’s looking at his or her salon and thinking, “how can I get my existing staff these skills?”.

At the moment your options are limited, but it is very doable and, as has been highlighted, with the potential business opportunity available, also well worth doing. Here’s what I suggest as the best way forward.

SPEAK TO MANUFACTURERS One of the simplest ways to get training and education in Afro-Caribbean hair services is simply to do it direct through one of the manufacturers. Key brands such as Design Essentials, Avlon and Mizani do offer a range of courses, although, of course, it is all based around their own product ranges.

Nevertheless, what’s valuable is that it will give you an opportunity to learn the basic science behind Afro-Caribbean hair services and then how to adapt that to the different hair types. It will help to build up your confidence at offering these services.

SPEAK TO YOUR AWARDING BODY Awarding bodies such as City & Guilds and VTCT offer a range of “continuing professional development” courses designed to give staff with some years of experience either new skills or refresh or update old ones. Habia, too, has often run courses along these lines.

So it makes sense to see what courses or qualifications it offers in your local area that might be appropriate.

SPEAK TO YOUR LOCAL COLLEGE This could well be hit and miss, and it’ll make sense to do some internet research first. But it stands to reason that, if your local college offers modules in AfroCaribbean hair services, you might be able to get some training for stylists, though you will probably have to pay.

It might also be that there’s a specific tutor at the college who you can approach directly for advice and guidance.

AFRO-CARIBBEAN HAIR SERVICES: THE CASE FOR TRAINING REFORM

29

The National Occupational Standards To find out more about the new National Occupational Standards for Afro-Caribbean hair, search for nos.ukces.org.uk and then type in “African” into the search bar.

The new standards cover a range of skills, including how to: • Advise and consult with clients with African-type and natural African hair • Shampoo and condition African-type and natural African hair • Perm, set and dress African-type and natural African hair • Colour and lighten, style and finish African-type and natural African hair

Sept/Oct 2015 | salonfocus

30

AFRO-CARIBBEAN HAIR SERVICES: GETTING STARTED

BRAND

VALUE TO BE SUCCESSFUL IN AFROCARIBBEAN HAIR IT PAYS TO TAKE IT ONE STEP AT A TIME, SAYS SAM GOLDING, OF SG HAIR IN BIRMINGHAM.

Sam Golding

robably 98% of our clientele are of curly haired descent. So curly hair and Afro-Caribbean hair services are very much the area we specialise in.

P

But if you’re starting out on this “journey” it’s probably going to be a case of offering Afro-Caribbean and mixed hair services alongside your existing European hair offer.

What you need to keep in mind is that, by offering AfroCaribbean hair services, it’s simply about extending what you’re already doing – the great service and great experience – to meet the needs of a new set of clientele.

SHAMPOO AND FINISH It also doesn’t have to be a massive transformation. In fact it’s a good idea to make this a transition you achieve step by step.

So, probably the first thing you need to be doing is simply offering shampoo and finish services. Don’t at this point get hung up on the fact you’re not offering chemical services.

What it means is you’ll at least be able to open your door to people with Afro-Caribbean or mixed hair.

You won’t, of course, be able to offer them a full range of services but if you can shampoo and finish everyone who comes in your door, irrespective of their hair type, that at least means you are beginning to provide new services to your community.

Then, if you decide it is an area you want to specialise in or offer a greater range of services, for instance chemical services, it’ll probably simply be a case of recruiting a stylist with the relevant college qualifications.

From there it’ll be a case of working to develop and build up that side of the business, much as you would any new or additional service. But the first thing is to make the initial transition.

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2015

HOW MANUFACTURERS CAN HELP One way to overcome the fear factor around Afro-Caribbean hair is to get a better handle on the products on the market.

The big-name key Afro-Caribbean hair and beauty manufacturers are: • Design Essentials (designessentials.com) • Avlon (avlon.com) • Mizani (mizani-uk.com) • Inoar UK Professional Cosmetics (inoar.co.uk) Most of these can offer useful training and support, whether in-salon or often through their own training academies.

There are of course also many smaller, specialist manufacturers and brands that you may wish to investigate.

AFRO-CARIBBEAN HAIR SERVICES: GETTING STARTED

31

ANABEL IS A TRICHOLOGIST WITH THE PHILIP KINGSLEY RANGE. ANABEL KINGSLEY

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW AFRO-CARIBBEAN HAIR REQUIRES SPECIAL CARE AND PRODUCTS, SAYS ANABEL KINGSLEY. Afro-Caribbean hair is the most vulnerable to damage of all hair textures because of its unique structure and specific processing, styling and grooming needs.

Therefore, stylists need to be aware it requires special care and the use of specifically-formulated products in order to look, feel and be at its best.

STYLING The hair shaft of Afro-Caribbean hair is flat with a twisted structure and a thin diameter.

Where these twists or curls occur, there is a narrowing in the width of the hair, making these areas weaker. This is one of the reasons why Afro-Caribbean hair breaks so easily.

Because Afro-Caribbean hair is curly, it also tangles easily. Trying to detangle it can worsen hair breakage, so be as gentle as possible. Apply a detangling spray to towel-dried hair and, using a wide-tooth comb, start at the ends and gradually work up to the roots.

Curly hair doesn’t reflect light as easily as straight hair. Use smoothing, conditioning creams to close the cuticle and encourage light reflection.

COLOURING It’s vital to protect and hydrate Afro-Caribbean hair if you colour or bleach it.

The hair’s flat shape allows it to absorb chemicals more rapidly. Changing from a dark to very light colour can also significantly weaken the hair shaft, causing snappage. Encourage your client to use an intensive pre-shampoo conditioning treatment at least once a week. You can also use deep conditioning treatments in your salon under a steamer.

CONDITIONING It’s vital to use a specialized and ultra-hydrating conditioner. Look for products labelled “moisturizing”, “re-moisturizing”, “emollient”, “deep conditioning”, “elasticizing”, “penetrative” and/or “intensive”. It’s also best to avoid heavy, oily types of styling products.

Sept/Oct 2015 | salonfocus

The changing high street

33

PRESSURE OF EXAMS HAS LED TO A COLLAPSE IN THE NUMBER OF TEENAGERS PREPARED TO DO SATURDAY JOBS, THE GOVERNMENT HAS SAID. SALONFOCUS LOOKS AT WHAT’S HAPPENING. or many salon owners the Saturday job in their local salon will have been what first sparked their passion for the industry. But now a government report is warning the number of teenagers prepared to take on a Saturday or parttime job is plummeting.

F

The UK Commission for Employment and Skills (UKCES) warned in a report in June that the number of 16- and 17-year-olds prepared to combine part-time work with school or college studies has halved in the past two decades (see graphics, left).

There appear to be a number of factors behind this change. First, there has been a significant increase in the number of 16- to 17-yearolds carrying on into full-time education.

Given that since 2003 young people have been required to stay in either education or training up to the age of 17 (rising to 18 this year), this is perhaps not that surprising.

GRADES PRESSURE But the increased emphasis now also put on exams and testing by many schools and colleges has meant many young people often feel under greater pressure to get “good” grades.

This in turn has led to a greater expectation among schools, parents and even young people themselves that they cannot “afford” to let anything distract them from their studies.

The other key factor appears to be declining job opportunities for young people.

As a whole, the number of part-time jobs available across the entire economy, for workers of any age, has gone up since 2002, from 7.8 million then to 8.6 million in 2014.

But crucially, in industries that have traditionally tended to offer young people part-time work, in others words retail (which includes hairdressing), hotels and catering, opportunities have declined.

The UKCES research emphasises that this trend pre-dates the recession of 2007/08 and so, even though the economy is now back on track, it is still an issue to be concerned about.

As UKCES commissioner Dame Fiona Kendrick has argued: “It seems that young people are actively shunning the idea of working while studying, as the fear of not doing well pervades our society.”

And the solution? Well there are no easy answers. Dame Fiona, for one, has emphasised any solution will have to bring together employers, schools and parents.

As she has said: “Employers and education providers need to work closer together to create these opportunities, and to highlight how a part-time job can aid young people in the future.”

WHAT DO YOU THIINK Do you find it harder nowadays to get young people for Saturday jobs? Why do you feel that is? Tell us what you think on social media.

Sept/Oct 2015 | salonfocus

BEARD Facts and figures

59% Consumers who think it is looks unprofessional for men to have ungroomed facial hair in the workplace

39% Men who say they feel “under pressure” to keep their facial hair neat and tidy

£72m

Sources: Mintel; IRI

Decline in value of men’s grooming market in EU during 2013/14, with retailers blaming this on the growth in popularity of beards

£2.2bn Nevertheless, sales of shaving equipment sold across EU during 2013/14

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2015

GAMES WAS THE BOOM IN BEARDS ALL DOWN TO THE FINANCIAL CRASH OF 2008? AND, WITH THE ECONOMY RECOVERING, IS THAT WHY CLEANSHAVEN LOOKS ARE NOW RETURNING?

know the economy W eis all improving. It’s also

clear that, while many salons and barbers have benefited over the past few years from the booming popularity of beards, we may now be past “peak beard”.

But are these trends linked?

Certainly an Australian academic called Professor Robert Brooks from the University of New South Wales thinks this might be the case.

In a recent academic paper, Professor Brooks has argued that one of the reasons why smooth chinned looks are now starting to become more popular again is simple economics.

When times are tougher, when men are having to compete more for jobs, there is a greater desire to look more distinctive, flamboyant and “masculine”, he argues.

Indeed, he suggests there is some evidence that after the 1929 Wall Street Crash in America, beards returned to popularity for a number of years.

Equally, and perhaps less surprisingly, the more bearded men there are around on our high streets, gradually the less attractive the look becomes for potential partners, the research has suggested.

When people are confronted by a

succession of bearded men, they tend to decide clean-shaven men are more attractive, and vice versa.

VICTORIAN BEARDS Further research, this time by Henley Business School in Surrey, has identified how the beard was an essential part of the identity of the Victorian banker, a key way of showing they were respectable, prudent and generally serious-minded people.

The study by Dr Lucy Newton and Dr Victoria Barnes of the university’s Law School has argued that another factor in the popularity of beards at this time – the 1850s – was the Crimean War between Britain, France and Russia.

People were keen to emulate the look of returning British soldiers, who had grown beards to cope with the freezing conditions.

For Victorian bankers, the fact a beard projected an air of competence and authority was also important because bankers were trying to restore their reputation with the general public following a severe banking crash at the beginning of the nineteenth century.

Although the research does not make this link directly, might there therefore even be an argument for modern-day bankers to embrace the bewhiskered look – mutton chops, sideburns and all – of their Victorian counterparts?

Trends: beards through history

35

36

Q&A LEGAL LIFELINE Members with a business, legal or employment question can call the Legal Lifeline on 01234 831965 or email enquiries@nhf.info.

Employment-related support is available 24/7 and advice on commercial issues 9am-5pm Monday-Friday.

YOUR

QUESTIONS pprentices, and the complexities of the apprentice minimum wage, were keeping members on their toes in August.

A

Q

We employed an apprentice straight out of school at the age of 16. She is two years into a three-year apprenticeship and she will turn 19 later this year. She has now asked us to confirm that her pay will increase from her birthday. When we took her on we expected to pay the apprentice rate for the entire time.

A

The National Minimum Wage apprentice rate applies to apprentices under the age of 19, or 19 and over and in their first year of apprenticeship. As your apprentice will be more than one year into her apprenticeship you need to pay her the 18-20-year-old rate from her birthday.

This is currently £5.13 an hour but from next month (October) is set to rise to £5.30 an hour.

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2015

Q

Q

A

A

A local salon owner has been in touch with us to let us know that she is closing down her business.

She has an apprentice who is 21 and has just finished her NVQ Level 2 but she was going to start Level 3 with them. They have asked if we would be interested in taking her on from September to enable her to do Level 3.

We would be happy to take her and we have a space for an apprentice, however we cannot afford to take her on if we are going to have to pay her the adult National Minimum Wage rate. What will we need to pay her?

As the apprentice will be commencing a new apprenticeship with a new employer unrelated to the previous apprenticeship, it will in fact be treated as if this is the first year of her apprenticeship. You will therefore be able to pay her the apprentice rate for one year which should hopefully see her through to the end of her NVQ Level 3. Again, this is currently £2.73 an hour but from October will be rising significantly, to £3.30 an hour.

In July 2014 I took on a 16-yearold school leaver, who was due to start her NVQ Level 1 at college in September 2014. As she wasn’t starting her NVQ until September, I offered her a normal contract of employment and paid her £3.79 per hour (the age 16-17 minimum wage) from July to September. In September, I gave her an apprenticeship agreement and from that point I reduced her hourly rate to the apprentice rate of pay. She is now arguing I should not have reduced her rate of pay in September. Is she right?

No. In your situation you have made it clear the difference between the two different periods of employment with the different contracts to ensure the employee knows when she begin as an apprentice. Therefore it is clear that she commenced her apprenticeship in September and it is correct that this attracts the National Minimum Wage apprenticeship rate from that point. But this, as per question one, is only until she is aged 19.

We have other styles of insurance When you choose Salonsure you get excellent Salon Insurance, but did you know that Coversure also offers a wide range of other insurance policies? For example: • • •

Personal accident Home, motor and travel RAC breakdown cover

0800 223 0315 coversure.co.uk/nhf

NHF Advert Halfpage 2.indd 1

10/08/2015 14:05:50

The LHAA offers: The London Hairdressing Apprenticeship Academy a

Hairdressing Apprenticeships at Level 2 & Level 3 for 16-23 year-olds, Government funded and FREE We can help you find your ideal Apprentice as we can recruit and select suitable juniors for you – contact us to discuss your specific salon needs We can train your existing salon staff or salon juniors All Apprentices study Employability Skills and Customer Service units as part of the Apprenticeship programme

The London Hairdressing Apprenticeship Academy (LHAA) is a dynamic and innovative vocational training organisation that specialises in high quality hairdressing training. The LHAA offers NVQs and Apprenticeships at our state of the art hairdressing academies in Borehamwood (Hertfordshire), Camden (London) and Loughton (Essex).

Flexible start dates from September 2015 onwards

020 8953 9344 Or visit www.lhaa.co.uk for further details Please contact the LHAA on

LHAA BOREHAMWOOD Paramount House 17-21 Shenley Road Borehamwood Herts WD6 1AD

LHAA CAMDEN 1A Hawley Road Hawley Lock Camden London NW1 8RP

LHAA LOUGHTON 22 Forest Road Loughton Essex IG10 1DX

38

BOOKINGS Anyone interested in attending events should contact the NHF team on 01234 831965 or events@nhf. info. Bookings can be made online at nhf.info/events

Events

BUSINESS EVENTS SHARPEN UP YOUR KNOWLEDGE, AND MAKE YOUR SALON MORE SUCCESSFUL, BY COMING ALONG TO ONE OF THE NHF’S POPULAR BUSINESS EVENTS. HOW TO MAKE YOUR SALON MORE PROFITABLE 07 September – Bridgend 21 September – Stirling 12 October – Stockport 19 October – Ipswich 02 November – Milton Keynes 09 November – York HOW TO MAKE YOUR SALON MORE PROFITABLE (FOLLOW-ON) 30 November – Basingstoke HOW TO DELIVER A GREAT CLIENT EXPERIENCE 23 November – Edinburgh HOW TO MOTIVATE AND INCREASE PRODUCTIVITY IN YOUR TEAM 21 September – Derby TRICHOLOGY STARTER SESSION 19 October – Dundee 09 November – Warrington

ARTISTIC EVENTS 28

SEPTEMBER Sid Sottung Live, Nottingham

05

OCTOBER Barbers’ Workshop with Steve Clewlow, Coventry

26

OCTOBER Pride of Scotland Competition, Glynhill Hotel, Paisley

01

NOVEMBER Welsh Hairdressing Awards, Cardiff

15

NOVEMBER Britain’s Best, Heritage Motor Centre, Warwickshire

23

NOVEMBER Red Rose Championships, Warrington

salonfocus | Sept/Oct 2015

PENSION POT

PLANNING OUR PENSIONS EVENTS CAN TELL YOU WHAT YOU NEED TO DO TO GET YOUR SALON READY FOR PENSIONS AUTO-ENROLMENT.

If we’re not careful, pensions autoenrolment is going to catch up with the industry and bite it hard over the next 18 months to two years.

Even the smallest salons will need to have put in place an employee pension by 2017 at the latest. But for many it will be much earlier than that. Just as importantly, it can take up to a year to prepare for this change.

Salons found not to be offering a pension when they should risk being fined up to £50,000.

Make sure you’re not one of them by coming along to one of our Understanding Auto-Enrolment pensions events.

LEGAL CHANGE The events explain what autoenrolment is, what your new legal responsibilities will be and, crucially, what this change will cost you.

They tell you step-by-step what you need to do. This includes when your staging date is likely to be (or the date when your pension must go “live”), how to assess your staff so you know who to enrol in a scheme and how to choose a pension provider.

Details of the NHF’s pension scheme for salons can be found at nhfpensions. co.uk. Pensions events can also be booked through this website or by calling 01234 831965.

PENSION EVENTS UNDERSTANDING AUTO-ENROLMENT 07 September – London 05 October – Bromsgrove 02 November – Plymouth Anyone interested in attending these events can either book online at nhf.info or through the NHF’s pensions website, nhfpensions.co.uk, or by calling 01234 831965.

— BE YOU —

CREATE SHAPE FINISH BE YOU IS THE COMPLETE FINISHING AND STYLING LINE, LETTING YOU FULLY EXPRESS A PERSONAL AND DISTINCTIVE STYLE FOR MORE INFORMATION PLEASE CONTACT ASTON & FINCHER ON 0870 240 2176

EXCLUSIVELY DISTRIBUTED BY

Qualifications for the world

Official Sponsor

ITEC has been awarding high quality vocational qualifications for over 60 years. It is now one of the world's leading and most successful awarding organisations specialising in Hairdressing and Beauty & Spa sectors. In 2014 ITEC awarded over 30,000 Certifications in over 41 countries.

www.itecworld.co.uk