National Trust NSW Magazine - Oct to Dec 2021 by The National Trusts in Australia

NATIONAL TRUST NEW SOUTH WALES OCTOBER – DECEMBER 2021 MAGAZINE

IN THIS ISSUE PROTECTING MULGOA VALLE Y RE TFORD PARK’S REMARK ABLE HISTORY RE VITALISING HERITAGE L ANDSCAPES

CONTENTS

Inside Welcome to our fourth edition of the National Trust New South Wales Magazine for 2021. This edition focuses on the importance and pleasure of landscapes. We shine a light on Mulgoa Valley, an oasis of natural and cultural heritage in Western Sydney under threat from development. We explore the history of one of Australia’s finest country heritage estates, Retford Park. We look at plans to revitalise historic landscapes at three iconic heritage properties. Plus, our Director of Conservation, David Burdon, uncovers signs of ‘unfinished business’ among some of our much-loved heritage buildings. We hope you enjoy this edition.

Future of our Heritage Neil Wykes OAM and Debbie Mills

Update National Trust News

Protect Western Sydney's Last Great Landscape

Explore Remarkable Retford Park

Explore Spotlight on Yass

Conserve Unfinished Business

Reflect Historic Landscapes Need Love Too

Calendar October to December 2021

Meet our Volunteers In Conversation with Chris Tobin

National Trust (NSW)

Cover image Retford Park’s pool pavilion. The house and gardens will soon be open to visitors every weekend. Read more about the history of this iconic heritage property, as well as its future plans, on page 9. (Photo by Ann Frederick)

National Trust (NSW) Observatory Hill, Millers Point, Sydney 2000 GPO Box 518, Sydney 2001 Telephone: (02) 9258 0123 Fax: (02) 9251 1110 nationaltrust.org.au/nsw President: Mr Neil Wykes OAM CEO: Debbie Mills Editor: Andrew Sedger Designer: Lauren Sutherland Editorial Committee: David Burdon, Nicole Crabb, Debbie Mills, Susan Hunt, Anja Stride, Leah Tasker, Jane Watters, Anne Weinman. The National Trust New South Wales Magazine is published by the National Trust of Australia (New South Wales). Published articles reflect the opinions of the authors and are not necessarily reflective of the views of the National Trust. This magazine is printed by Enviropress, a division of Bright Print Group, on paper that is independently certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC), carbon neutral and made with 100% recycled post-consumer waste in a chlorine-free environment.

VISION

Future of our Heritage BY NEIL WYKES OAM AND DEBBIE MILLS

Dear Members, As the last quarter of 2021 approaches, we'd like to thank our generous supporters, volunteers and staff who have helped the National Trust (NSW) to thrive in what continues to be a challenging year. With people's ability to travel restricted, many of us are becoming more aware of our local spaces. Our surrounding landscapes, the nearby environment, and the community we live in have taken on heightened importance. As we know, our landscapes can have a significant effect on our well-being and quality of life. Culturally important and aesthetically pleasing landscapes refresh our body and mind by allowing us to reconnect with nature and heritage. Local landscapes can foster social cohesion by providing places for people from all walks of life to come together as a community. For 75 years, the National Trust (NSW) has worked to protect, enhance and celebrate our state’s unique landscapes and environment. Our special places such as Retford Park, Everglades House & Gardens, Norman Lindsay Gallery and many others allow visitors to enjoy both natural and cultural heritage. Our Bushland Management Services (BMS) helps protect and restore natural environments throughout the Greater Sydney region. With your continued support, we will continue to look after our precious landscapes for generations to come. We wish everyone a safe summer break and a happy and hopeful 2022.

Neil Wykes OAM, President

Debbie Mills, CEO

YOU ARE INVITED TO THE

National Trust (NSW) Annual General Meeting Date: Saturday 27 November 2021 Time: 3:30PM – 5PM Location: S.H. Ervin Gallery, Observatory Hill, Millers Point, Sydney The National Trust (NSW) invites members to attend the Annual General Meeting (AGM). Members will hear the President’s report on the past 12 months and the 2021 Board of Directors election results.

THE AGM IS A COVID SAFE EVENT Recipients of the National Trust Honours Awards for 2021 will be announced but not presented at the AGM. To maintain physical distancing and for your safety, capacity is set at 50 attendees, with no refreshments served. To attend, RSVP online via Eventbrite and present your ticket on entry. If the AGM reaches capacity or is 'sold out', please email Aly McAuliffe at amcauliffe@nationaltrust.com.au to be placed on the waiting list. If capacity limits change, we will contact you. If you are unwell or have visited a COVID-19 hot spot in the two weeks before the AGM, we ask that you please stay home and notify Aly McAuliffe via email so that we can advise people on our waiting list. Register through Eventbrite by using this link online: bit.ly/397lRQ1

October – December 2021

Update

National Trust News Catch up on the latest campaigns, appeals and initiatives to protect heritage in New South Wales. In this edition, progress on our art conservation project, the listing of a WWII hangar, and plans to protect heritage at a popular Blue Mountains lookout. Plus, we cast a critical eye on the NSW Government’s review of the Heritage Act.

GENERAL NEWS

Art Conservation In Full Swing Thanks to the generosity of our members, the National Trust’s largest art conservation project - Rescue. Revive. Reveal. – is well underway. More than $167,000 was raised through our art conservation appeal, allowing us to conserve 36 works of art from properties around New South Wales. Expert conservators around the state have commenced treatment on our most special artworks in need of care. We are looking forward to revealing the revived artworks – and their stories – in the coming months.

Govetts Leap Heritage Protected The unique heritage values of Govetts Leap lookout in Blackheath will be retained under a revised plan to upgrade visitor access at this spectacular site. The National Parks and Wildlife Service’s visitor precinct plan will now see the early twentieth-century ironstone structures, including walls, monuments and picnic shelters, retained in-situ and a stone arch relocated to another part of the site. The changes follow successful lobbying by the Blue Mountains Branch of the National Trust and other local heritage groups.

Tocumwal Airfield Hangar Listed The WWII Tocumwal Airfield hangar is now listed on the State Heritage Register. Built in 1942 using short lengths of local unseasoned hardwoods, the hangar is a remarkable technical and engineering achievement. It was used as a temporary base to store and maintain B-24 Liberator bomber aircraft for the US Air Force in response to the fear of invasion during WWII. The National Trust made a submission and is delighted that the hangar’s heritage values are now protected.

National Trust (NSW)

Update

ADVOCACY NEWS

Chance for a Stronger Heritage Act In May 2021, the NSW Government announced a major review of the NSW Heritage Act, 1977. The Heritage Act is critical to the identification, protection, promotion and conservation of heritage in NSW. The National Trust is campaigning to ensure that any changes to the Heritage Act result in a stronger Act. Review forum a great success On 9 June 2021, the National Trust hosted an independent forum of 277 experts, professional heritage organisations, community groups and individuals. The aim was to generate cross-industry collaboration to discuss key issues facing heritage in NSW, and develop responses to the review’s Discussion Paper. The forum was a testament to what the National Trust is uniquely placed to do. It was heartening to see so many eminent heritage professionals and community campaigners in one room and supporting one another to write submissions. More than 300 submissions to the review were lodged. National Trust presses its case The National Trust’s Conservation Director, David Burdon, presented to the NSW Parliament’s Standing Committee on Social Issues on 13 August 2021 as part of the review’s five day hearing. David reiterated the need to ensure the review strengthened, not diminished, heritage protections in NSW. Over the course of the review, we will meet with members of the Standings Committee to reaffirm our position. We will also prepare a Submissions Analysis, along with responses to issues raised at the hearing. These will be distributed to committee members and will be available on our website. The National Trust will continue to update our members on the progress of the Heritage Act review, including further opportunities for public input. Visit our website to read our detailed submission and watch videos from the forum. nationaltrust.org.au/advocacy-nsw

WANT MORE NEWS AND UPDATES? Opposite from top Seven Kookaburras by G.F. Gregory (photo by Julie McCarthy); Stone picnic shelter, Govetts Leap Lookout, Blackheath, NSW (photo by Rod Stowe ); WWII aeroplane hangar, Tocumwal, NSW (photo via wikimedia.org).

@nationaltrustau @nationaltrustau @nationaltrustnsw

October – December 2021

PROTECT

Western Sydney’s Last Great Landscape? BY LISA HARROLD, PRESIDENT OF MULGOA VALLEY LANDCARE GROUP

Sandwiched between rapidly-growing Penrith and the new Aerotropolis lies a small oasis. Mulgoa Valley is a rare landscape in the Sydney basin: rolling green hills, important ecological communities and significant heritage properties. But pressure is mounting to unwind the protections that ensure the valley remains a special place. Any ‘last of its kind’ is precious. And over the past 200 years, Mulgoa Valley has become the last major landscape on Sydney’s Cumberland Plain that remains relatively free from unsympathetic development. Situated on the western edge of the Plain, the valley has long been recognised as unique. It marks an important boundary between the Darug peoples from the plains and the Gundungurra from the mountains. The Mulgowie Clan of the Darug nation are the traditional custodians of the valley, and it still holds many of their secrets.

There is also a rich tapestry of colonial heritage properties in the valley. Six are listed on the NSW State Heritage Register, including the exquisite Fernhill Estate. The archaeological remains of Regentville, a famous country house built by Sir John Jamison in the early 1800s, lie within Mulgoa Nature Reserve. Roughly one-quarter of Mulgoa Valley is preserved in perpetuity for its heritage and conservation values.

Mulgoa Valley is home to many places of significant natural and heritage value. The Mulgoa Nature Reserve and the Mulgoa section of the Blue Mountains National Park contain important communities of plants, animals and woodland native to the Cumberland Plain. The valley provides habitat critical to scarlet, flame and rose robins during their annual migration from the Blue Mountains to the Cumberland Plain each winter. The endangered regent honeyeater and swift parrot also take refuge there. Ten properties within Mulgoa Valley support wildlife conservation through Biodiversity Stewardship Agreements.

National Trust (NSW)

Below Mulgoa landscape (photo by P. Barkley). Opposite from top Mulgoa landscape (photo by P. Barkley); Scarlet Robin (photo via Alamy); Lithograph of Fernhill by C. Cox, looking towards St Thomas Church (photo via nla.gov.au/nla.pic-an8421802).

“Mulgoa Valley’s exceptionally rich landscape… is unique in the Sydney region. It is under threat from the relentless expansion of Greater Sydney”

But is Mulgoa really protected? Unfortunately, these arrangements do not automatically provide protection from unsympathetic development. Fernhill, for example, has two heritage listings – one for the 1842 Greek Revival house and one for its rural colonial landscape – as well as Biodiversity Stewardship Agreements covering hundreds of hectares. Yet, in recent years, the property has been subject to multiple Development Applications for subdivisions of up to 250 housing blocks. Rookwood Cemeteries Trust wanted to put the largest cemetery in the southern hemisphere there. Thanks to vocal and hard-fought campaigns by the Mulgoa community, these applications failed. And even though Fernhill is now in public ownership under the Western Sydney Parklands Trust (WSPT), it is still being “investigated for commercial and residential leasing opportunities”, according to the draft Fernhill Plan of October – December 2021

From left Nepean River as seen from the Rock Lookout, Mulgoa (photo by Anne Cutajar); Fernhill, Mulgoa (photo via fernhillestate.cve.io).

Management. The WSPT is also investigating whether the Biodiversity Stewardship Agreements should be ‘undone’ in order to manage public access to the estate.

as ‘farm sheds’ and suburban ‘trophy houses’ ignore planning guidelines in their siting, materials and landscaping.

Weak and weakening planning control

The Mulgoa community will keep fighting to protect its precious valley, despite the ongoing challenges. An application to Heritage NSW to list the Mulgoa Valley as a ‘cultural landscape’ was submitted by Friends of Fernhill and Mulgoa Valley in 2020. But to succeed, there needs to be a change in the political appetite for landscape conservation, especially in a region targeted to absorb one million people over the next 30 years.

The critical problem is the lack of effective planning control. The key policy that initially helped protect the Mulgoa Valley no longer exists. The Sydney Regional Environmental Plan (SREP) No. 13 was a visionary instrument, whose foreword read: “development should not be allowed to significantly change the character of Mulgoa Valley nor threaten its ecological and heritage resources. The valley can play an important role in conservation, tourism and recreation in Western Sydney” (Bob Carr, 1987). SREP 13 played a pivotal role in conserving the scenic and rural landscapes that we enjoy in Mulgoa today. However, about a decade ago, SREP 13 was dissolved into a generic, state-wide Local Environment Plan (2010), which provides un-enforceable ‘guidelines’ for prospective developers. Ever since, urban sprawl and ‘bold infrastructure’ have devoured the landscapes of the magnificent Cumberland Plain. Local planning regulations offer some protection but only if applied effectively. The draft Penrith Scenic and Cultural Landscapes Study (2019) noted: “…Penrith Development Control Plan contains substantial controls to manage many of the current visual detractors seen across the valley. Better implementation and compliance with these controls is required”. Such controls are urgently needed where industrial developments masquerade

Locals – and friends – keep fighting

The good news is that it’s not only Mulgoa residents who want to protect the Mulgoa Valley. The Australian Garden History Society has recently added Fernhill Estate and Mulgoa Valley to its Landscapes at Risk: Watch and Action List. The Historic Houses Association wrote in its September e-newsletter: “Mulgoa Valley’s exceptionally rich landscape… is unique in the Sydney region. It is under threat from the relentless expansion of Greater Sydney”. Sadly, exceptional landscapes are becoming increasingly inaccessible for those of us who reside in built-up areas and apartments. And when these places disappear, the sense of space, the natural horizon, and the wellbeing they provide disappear as well. If you care about Mulgoa Valley, then write to your elected representatives and tell them why it should be protected. In a rapidly changing and growing city, we need more than ever to hold on to our few remaining special landscapes.

National Trust (NSW)

EXPLORE

Remarkable Retford Park BY COLLEEN MORRIS, DEPUTY CHAIR OF THE NATIONAL TRUST’S LANDSCAPE CONSERVATION COMMITTEE

Retford Park has come a long way since its humble beginnings as a cattle and sheep station in the early nineteenth century. This brief history sketches the origin and development of one of NSW’s most impressive country heritage estates.

October – December 2021

Previous page Retford Park (photo by John Swainston). Above ‘Euphoric Angels’ by the late Inge King (AM) (photo by John Swainston). Opposite from top Head gardener, Rick Shepherd, shows ABC's Gardening Australia's Costa Georgiadis around Retford Park during a recent episode (photo by John Swainston); 'Customised mulch' under the cork oak (photo by SGR Photo).

The roots of Retford Park trace back to the early days of the NSW colony. In 1821 Governor Lachlan Macquarie granted two parcels of land in the NSW Southern Highlands to Edward Riley, a Sydney merchant and pastoralist. Riley called the holding, which stood on Gundungurra country, ‘Bloomfield’. From 1830 Edward’s son, George ran ‘Bloomfield’ as a sheep and cattle station. Fifty-four years later, Samuel Hordern, a prominent merchant and stockbreeder, bought the property and renamed it after Retford Hall at Darling Point, a home built by his father, Anthony Hordern.

trademark of a spreading oak with the motto ‘While I live I’ll grow’ and so the extensive plantations of exotic trees and conifers include a collection of oaks. By 1910 the estate comprised gardens, parklands and twenty-six paddocks.

From 1884 to 1960, three generations of Horderns developed Retford Park into a significant country estate. Retford Park House was built in 1887, situated on a gentle rise with a rural outlook across the paddocks where Hordern bred Ayrshire and Jersey cattle and horses. The house was designed by architect Albert Bond in a Victorian Italianate style and later extended to the east by Morrow and de Putron in 1907. Bond is thought to have also designed the former manager’s residence, cottages, stables, a coach house and ancillary buildings.

In 1964, company director and philanthropist James Fairfax AC, purchased the house and surrounding four hectares as a country retreat. He commissioned the interior designer Leslie Walford to ‘do’ the house. Walford thought the garden, which had become overgrown and neglected, looked like it was overwhelming the house. Yet, James Fairfax loved the many mature trees at Retford Park, which included a Bunya Bunya pine, a giant redwood and a Caucasian fir. In his later years, his daily ritual was to sit on the front verandah with a view of the trees, a glass of champagne in hand, until he was called in to lunch.

The driveway leading from the entry gate on Old South Road was planted with Monterey cypress. A teardrop shaped carriage loop with a central fountain and brick-edged gravel drive were laid out to the front of the house and surrounded by gardens and shrubberies. The Hordern business had adopted a National Trust (NSW)

New owners, new visions After the death of Samuel Hordern (III) in 1960, Retford Park and the Hordern property Milton Park were purchased by the Texasbased King Ranch, but the house itself was surplus to their needs as cattle breeders.

In 1967, James’s mother Betty Fairfax commissioned the English garden designer John Codrington to redesign the grounds as a birthday present to her son. Codrington opened up vistas, directing that the huge camellias near the house be replaced with Italian cypress

(Cupressus sempervirens) and that the garden be dominated by cool colours – blue, white and grey rather than the exisiting reds and pinks. The single most significant modern contribution to the garden is the pavilion with a swimming pool to its west and a water garden to the east. Designed by renowned Australian modernist architect Guildford Bell and constructed in 1969 on what was a horse paddock, the pool and pavilion and water garden are considered by many to be the finest modernist garden ‘set piece’ in NSW. Sculptures by David Wilson and Clement Meadmore were introduced to the lawns within the enclosure. From 1995 Retford Park became James Fairfax’s primary residence and the garden became increasingly compartmentalised. Melbourne architect David Wilkinson designed many features, including the Green Room. Old poultry yards were cleared away and replaced by sweeping hedged lawns. The Millenium Canal, with a surface area of 2,000 square metres, was constructed in 1999. Wilkinson planted a row of maples parallel to the canal, and on a still day in late Autumn the reflected colour is Instagram fodder. James Fairfax gifted his beloved gentleman’s estate to the National Trust in 2016. A sustainable future Today, the estate comprises thirty-four hectares, ten of which are garden. And thanks to horticulturist Rick Shepherd, head gardener since 2011, Retford Park has a long and sustainable future. Rick has transformed the care of the garden, swapping out the use of chemicals for organic gardening principles. Compost made on site and supplemented with blood and bone has replaced chemical fertilisers. Mulch is used to insulate and feed the soil, suppress weeds and provide habitat for invertebrates. Pests and diseases are managed using a variety of organic tools. For example, predatory mites are used to biologically control the damaging two spotted mites on the extensive Rhododendron collection. Rick made other changes to the garden to put it on a more sustainable footing, such as diversifying the clipped grey foliaged plants in the central fountain walk with species better suited to the hot, dry conditions. Rick, who was once advised “if you find a job you love, you never have to go to work”, has ambitions for Retford Park to be a sustainable showpiece and the best garden in Australia. Clearly, the remarkable heritage estate is in safe hands.

PLAN YOUR NEXT VISIT Retford Park’s opening times are changing! We’re excited to announce that once stay-at-home orders have been lifted, Retford Park will be open every weekend. Explore the dog-friendly grounds, take a picnic and relax under the canopy of huge oak trees. On Saturdays and Sundays, join a house tour to see how James Fairfax lived and his collection of fine antique furniture, artworks, textiles and ceramics. Mondays & Fridays, 10AM – 4PM: Garden visit only. Saturdays & Sundays, 10AM – 4PM: Garden visit and house tours (bookings advised). To book and for more information visit nationaltrust.org.au/places/retford-park

October – December 2021

EXPLORE

Spotlight on Yass Valley BY NICOLE CRABB, DIRECTOR, DEVELOPMENT AND MEMBERSHIP

A scenic three-hour drive from Sydney, or an hour from Canberra, the Yass Valley is a top destination for food, wine and heritage lovers. Heritage trails Begin your discovery on the Yass Town Walk and be sure to visit colonial explorer Hamilton Hume’s former residence, Cooma Cottage. This 1830s colonial bungalow is one of the region’s heritage treasures. Now a National Trust property, the house sits on extensive grounds – perfect for picnics and lazy afternoons.

Gundaroo is also a top destination for foodies. The old town police stable is now the home of Cork Street Café, popular for its gourmet pizzas and relaxed atmosphere. For a fine dining experience, try the award-winning restaurant Grazing in the refurbished 1865 Royal Hotel. Cool climate wines

The Yass Valley and its surrounds are dotted with quaint country towns and villages. Binalong, the childhood home of Banjo Paterson, has ties to bushrangers such as Ben Hall, who frequented the area in the 1800s. A mural in Pioneer Park recounts the death of bushranger ‘Flash’ Johnny Gilbert at the hands of the police. The village also contains some impressive period architecture.

Enjoy cellar door tastings at iconic wineries, and browse gourmet food shops and farmers markets. Former gold mining town, Murrumbateman, is just 20 minutes from Yass and the heart of the Canberra district cool climate wine region. There are more than 20 boutique wineries producing acclaimed vintages for Australian and international tables. Every cellar door provides a different and exciting experience.

Twenty minutes away is Bowning, one of the area’s earliest settlements. Check out the Cobb & Co. Coaching Station, Troopers Cottage and the Bowning Hotel, a quintessential Aussie pub where, local legend has it, Henry Lawson and Banjo Paterson used to drink.

Savour a shiraz viognier at Clonakilla Wines, surrounded by local stone and reclaimed timber. At Shaw Wines - and their Olleyville restaurant – you can enjoy award-winning reserves on an historic wool-producing property. Helm Wines, which specialises in Riesling, is based in a heritage schoolhouse once used for meetings by the Temperance League! Tallagandra Wines and Dionysus Winery both produce premium wines of unique regional flavour. Tuck in to country flavours with smoked duck breast and a pinot noir at Poachers Pantry’s Smokehouse Restaurant and Wily Trout Vineyard.

Frozen in time, the colonial village of Gundaroo (40 minutes south-east of Yass) is listed on the National Trust Register. Take a nostalgic walk and discover nineteenth-century slab huts and buildings of wattle and daub, irregular stone and locally-fired brick.

National Trust (NSW)

Pop in and say hello to Nicole Taylor, the National Trust’s newly appointed Southern Region Property Manager, during a property open day. Nicole is supporting the operations and volunteers at Cooma Cottage, Riversdale, Harper’s Mansion and Golden Vale. Visit our website to plan your next visit.

NEED TO KNOW Cooma Cottage, 756 Yass Valley Way, Yass. Open Sundays 10AM–4PM. While in the area, visit the National Trust’s Riversdale Homestead, 2 Twynam Drive, Goulburn (a one-hour drive from Yass). Open Sundays 10AM–2PM. Check nationaltrust.org.au/nsw for further details on opening times.

Opposite Aerial view, Yass (photo via Alamy). Above left Murrumbateman is home to more than 20 boutique wineries (photo via Alamy).

Give them the gift that will really take them places

With a National Trust (NSW) Gift Membership, your family and friends will enjoy an adventure-packed 2022. That’s because, as well as free and discounted admission to Australia’s finest homes, galleries and gardens, every Gift Membership includes a bonus one year household membership to the Campervan and Motorhome Club of Australia (CMCA), valued at $60.

Purchase your Gift Membership today at nationaltrust.org.au/mem-gift

October – December 2021

CONSERVE

Unfinished Business BY DAVID BURDON, DIRECTOR OF CONSERVATION

Sydney in the 1830s and 1840s typified “the best of times, the worst of times”. If we look carefully, we can still see silent reminders of the period’s grand plans and shattered dreams.

The young colony of NSW was a prosperous place for many of its inhabitants nearly two hundred years ago. Out went the wool, and in came the goods to fill the warehouses. For the fashionable architects of colonial society in the 1830s, the commissions came thick and fast. Rich merchants, speculators, highranking civil servants and the established gentry were among those looking for a refined residence in the most modern style – often built on land granted to them for free and serviced by unpaid convict labourers. But this “golden decade” of optimism, prosperity and easily-borrowed money would not last. The inherent instability in the economy resulted in a crushing depression in the 1840s. For some observers, it was not an unexpected development. Ludwig Leichhardt said at the time: “Intoxicated with previous success – (a success so unprecedented as to be in itself a warning to the wise) – the highest as well as the lowest of the colonists had launched forth into every species of extravagance and wild speculation.” A close inspection of some of today’s much-loved heritage properties reveal the impacts of this tumultuous period.

a landscaped parkland setting at Mulgoa. Its extensive stone basement hints at the size of the structure intended to sit above it. Based on the floorplans of fashionable London residences of the time, Fernhill’s interior was dominated by an impressive drawing room, with its large semicircular bow window overlooking the estate. The date 1842 was carved over the entrance door and soon came to represent the time that the fortunes of the Coxes began to decline. Instead of adding the second floor, the stonemasons were dismissed, and the house was quickly modified to be a single-story residence with a crude timber porte cochère (demolished in the 1950s) hastily erected at the main entrance.

Grand designs dashed When Edward and Jane Maria Cox decided to build a new country house to reflect their pastoral success, it is almost certain that they contacted Mortimer Lewis to design it for them. Fernhill was commenced in 1839, situated atop a prominent hill within 14

National Trust (NSW)

Below The temporary timber entrance to Fernhill, photographed in 1906 (Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales). Right from top Tomago House now (photo by SGR Photo); Fernhill today, with the entrance porte cochère removed (photo via fernhillestate.cve.io)

Despite having the overall appearance of a grand colonial house, today’s keen-eyed visitors to Fernhill can spot the clues to the thwarted plans of the Coxes. The engaged piers to the outside of the building hang in mid-air, still waiting for their stone flagged verandah to support them. Inside, the main entrance hall has a strange feeling of austerity until you realise there should be a grand cantilevered staircase leading to an upper floor that never came. Reality bites The 1840s depression affected the same ‘Who’s Who’ that had enjoyed the prosperity of the 1830s, and their grand building plans were, almost as a rule, either cancelled or curtailed. The former Colonial Architect, Mortimer Lewis, was naturally affected by this dwindling supply of work, and filed his schedule for bankruptcy in November 1849. The last house attributed to him was William Charles Wentworth’s Vaucluse House. This grand residence was in the midst of being remodelled into a large and highly fashionable gothic mansion to rival the new Government House, when work ground to a halt. The house remains incomplete and to this day does not even have an entrance door. At Elizabeth Bay in 1835, the Colonial Secretary, Alexander Macleay, hoped to build “the finest house in the colony” based on a design by architect John Verge. The interior of the house, with its oval domed saloon and cantilevered stair, has been described as “masterly.” But the exterior did not reach the same level of refinement, with the elegant stone colonnade intended to surround the house not in place when construction ceased in 1838. By 1841, Macleay made the first subdivisions of the fifty-four acre estate as his finances dwindled. Both these incomplete houses are now in the care of Sydney Living Museums. The National Trust also cares for a house that represents the changing fortunes of this period. Richard Windeyer received the plans for the centrepiece of his new Tomago Estate in August 1840, and by December 1841, the 1,500 tons of stone to construct the house was arriving from Raymond Terrace. But the effects of the depression soon began to bite. The project’s very small workforce took a painfully long time to progress with the works, which, like Fernhill, commenced with the building of an extensive stone basement.

Tomago House may not have had the elevated setting of Fernhill, but it did enjoy a refined plan with two large curved bays projecting from the front elevation that lent a certain distinction to its otherwise unremarkable, flat setting. The date 1843 was again carved above the front door, and although the main hall has a feeling of refinement and symmetry and does not suggest a second floor, a classical stone or timber colonnade must surely have been intended for the exterior. The present cast iron verandah was unfortunately added later when funds permitted, but taste was lacking. It is perhaps to be regretted that, like so many other grand houses of the period, both Fernhill and Tomago were never completed, yet their unfinished state provides a tangible link to the optimism that inspired them and the economic reality that curtailed such ambition. October – December 2021

The author acknowledges the assistance and research of Dr James Broadbent in preparing this article. Interested readers are directed to his book “The Australian Colonial House – Architecture and Society in New South Wales 1788–1842” (1997). 15

REFLECT

Historic Landscapes Need Love Too BY MATT DEVINE, CHAIR OF THE NATIONAL TRUST’S LANDSCAPE CONSERVATION COMMITTEE

Historic landscapes – as settings or places in their own right – are as important as the buildings we know and love. The National Trust’s Garden Appeal will help us revitalise the historic landscapes at three iconic heritage properties.

A clear path to creativity When Norman Lindsay and Rose Soady purchased “Springwood” in 1912, the property was dilapidated. The original owners, the Foy family, had built a sandstone cottage and used the place as a ‘halfway house’ between Sydney and their retreat at Medlow Bath. Yet before any major works began on the cottage, Norman directed his attention towards the garden. It was there that the first statue, a female nude standing upright in an urn, was constructed and installed. His creative spirit is still evident in the landscaped bush setting of the Norman Lindsay Gallery. As Peter Freeman has noted, “His imagination peopled its landscape and provided a background for his art.” Norman’s works included statues, pergolas and pathways, and often extended into the bush landscape setting itself. Construction of the swimming pool occurred between 1914–16, although it soon became apparent that Norman’s skill and enthusiasm as a designer were not matched by construction expertise. Now, more than 100 years later, the landscape needs attention. We need to repair structural elements of the garden and reinvigorate some of the plantings to ensure that heritage lovers can continue to access and appreciate the tangible evidence of Norman Lindsay’s creative process. How does Vienna’s garden grow? The expansive grounds of the Norman Lindsay Gallery are in sharp contrast to the grounds of one of the National Trust's smallest properties – Vienna Cottage – a charming sandstone 1870s cottage in Hunters Hill. While the setting of Lindsay’s house 16

is an expression of his creative endeavour, Vienna’s setting is important for the way it demonstrates the domestic environment of a late nineteenth-century tradesman’s family. Vienna Cottage was the home of John and Ann Hillman and their five children. It was used as a dairy and to produce fruit and vegetables. When the National Trust purchased the house in 1984, Hunters Hill Council bought the adjacent orchard. The simple landscape setting of the cottage has changed little since the 1940s. While the cottage is the focus of preservation activity, the garden, which is used as the setting for many events at this property, is suffering. To ensure that Vienna remains faithful to its unique story, we have to reinstate some small-scale plantings and repair the traditional boundary fence that fronts the public orchard and park to the east. Restoring Tomago’s bucolic vistas Tomago House and Chapel tells a very different story, about one of the earliest phases of settlement of the Lower Hunter River District. Tomago was occupied by three generations of the famous Windeyer family for nearly a century; it is one of the most intact examples of Colonial Regency Architecture in a largely unaltered arcadian landscape. While the outstanding workmanship of the house is still evident, the landscape setting of the property has not been maintained to the same level, making it difficult to perceive the grand vision associated with the development of this house as the centre of a mid-nineteenth-century agricultural estate. Over time, the topographical setting has not changed greatly, and it retains a feeling of isolation despite its proximity to

National Trust (NSW)

Newcastle. Archival and site evidence has suggested ways in which the historic estate can be accurately understood, and the Windeyer-period grounds can be interpreted through the current physical layout. While some of the earliest plantings remain at Tomago, other trees planted in the 1940-60s have compromised some vistas from the house towards distant views and other elements of the site have become overgrown, making interpretation difficult. Twenty years ago, a detailed landscape plan was undertaken by the National Trust, but it was never realised. Now, the opportunity exists to reinterpret the landscape at Tomago and allow the unique qualities of this historic site to flourish. Initial works will include extensive weed removal and pruning to restore important landscape connections that exist on the site, in preparation for future considered planting.

From top The National Trust (NSW)’s 75th Anniversary celebrations at Vienna Cottage (photo by SGR Photo); Norman Lindsay Gallery (photo: National Trust).

How you can help Please make an investment in the landscape settings at Norman Lindsay Gallery, Vienna Cottage and Tomago House this spring. Make your gift at nationaltrust.org.au/donate-nsw

This spring, we need your help in the garden Due to the ravages of time and the impact of droughts and climate change, the heritage gardens of Vienna Cottage, Tomago House, and the Norman Lindsay Gallery are in desperate need of renewal and reimagining. Donate today and help us return these once-magnificent gardens to their original and intended beauty.

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Help us to: • Remove overgrown bushes and dead trees • Establish new ornamental gardens • Plant new trees and bushes • Create accessible paths and access routes

GEOFFR HERITAG EY E CO

ABN 75 86 Studio 67/ 30 Gadig al Avenu Ph. 9662 e

Tomago House

Please donate today at nationaltrust.org.au/donate-nsw National Trust (NSW) 2021 Garden Appeal

October – December 2021

Calendar

DISCOVER SOMETHING NEW

Step into spring with a wonderful range of events, tours, exhibitions and fairs, brought to you by the National Trust. Visit gardens in bloom, see inspiring new art collections, find that special Christmas gift, or just enjoy time with family and friends at a beautiful heritage property. Learn how to make a bee hotel for your garden, see Retford Park’s new Christmas makeover, and more.

We look forward to welcoming you back to our special places across New South Wales. A couple of properties will be slightly adjusting their opening times – Dundullimal Homestead and Miss Traill’s House will be open regularly on weekends! Dundullimal Homestead, Dubbo: Fridays – Mondays, 11AM – 3PM Miss Traill’s House, Bathurst: Sundays, 12PM – 3:30PM Plan your next visit at nationaltrust.org.au/places-nsw

Please note that all event details and opening times are correct at the time of printing. Updates on events featured in these pages can be found at nationaltrust.org.au/whats-on-nsw in case arrangements change due to COVID-19 rules.

IN THE PICTURE: CHILDREN’S BOOK ILLUSTRATORS ENQUIRING MINDS: EXPLORATION AND DISCOVERY IN COLONIAL NEW SOUTH WALES

A fascinating and thought-provoking exhibition, which delves into 18th and 19th century voyages of discovery combining exploration of the great southern land with scientific advances in navigation, astronomy, mapping and botanical collecting.

An exhibition featuring a selection of artwork from 10 contemporary children's book illustrators on display alongside classic children’s illustrations by Norman Lindsay, Pixie O’Harris, Ruby Lindsay and Percy Lindsay. Featured artists include Anna Pignataro, Liz Anelli, Tania McCartney, Jules Faber, Aura Parker, Kirrilli Lonergan, Donna Rawlins and Penelope Prately. Selected works and prints for sale. Children’s holiday program.

Tickets: Members free, general admission $15, concession $10, family $35 Visit nationaltrust.org.au/whats-on-nsw

Tickets: Members free, general admission $17, concession/children $15 Visit nationaltrust.org.au/whats-on-nsw

OLD GOVERNMENT HOUSE, PARRAMATTA 27 FEBRUARY – 28 NOVEMBER 2021, THURSDAY TO SUNDAY, 10AM – 4PM

NORMAN LINDSAY GALLERY 16 SEPTEMBER – 30 JANUARY 2022, THURSDAY – SUNDAY, 10AM – 4PM

National Trust (NSW)

Calendar

X POLLINATION

THE SPECTACLES – LIVE AT NORMAN LINDSAY GALLERY

RETFORD PARK, BOWRAL 16 OCTOBER – 3 JANUARY 2022, FRIDAYS – MONDAYS, 10AM – 4PM

NORMAN LINDSAY GALLERY, BLUE MOUNTAINS 13 NOVEMBER, 5PM – 9PM

In its simplest meaning, x pollination is the joining together of two different things: genetic constitutions, cultures, or the cross-fertilisation of ideas. In this exhibition, the Artists of the Round Yard, a creative group based at Retford Park, share their unique interpretations of x pollination. Some works are inspired by nature, and others by the connections between people. Tickets: Members free, general admission $15, concession $10, family $35 Visit nationaltrust.org.au/whats-on-nsw

Make it an evening to remember with local band, The Spectacles. Their fun repertoire of rock, pop and soul favourites will get you up and grooving in the grounds of wonderful Norman Lindsay Gallery. Bring a picnic, deck chairs and all your friends! Tickets: Members $20, general admission $25 Visit nationaltrust.org.au/whats-on-nsw

NATIVE BEE WORKSHOP RETFORD PARK, BOWRAL 29 OCTOBER, 9:30AM – 11:30AM Help tackle one of the greatest challenges of our time – declining biodiversity – by making a home for native bees in your backyard. Sylvia Cornwell, proudly known as ‘The Mad Bee Lady’, has been keeping honeybees for 40 years and will show you how to make your very own Bee Hotel (which you get to take home). Finish with a tour of the Retford Park garden and a delicious morning tea. Tickets: Members $55, general admission $65, concession $60 Visit nationaltrust.org.au/whats-on-nsw

HARVEST TO HERITAGE: ARMIDALE FARMERS’ MARKET

THE DOCTOR WILL SEE YOU NOW DUNDULLIMAL HOMESTEAD, DUBBO 8 NOVEMBER – 31 JANUARY, FRIDAYS – MONDAYS, 11AM – 3PM

SAUMAREZ HOMESTEAD, ARMIDALE 14 NOVEMBER, 12 DECEMBER, 9AM – 2PM

This travelling exhibition explores the perilous and fascinating history of health in the early colony. Learn how those venturing to Australia in the 1800s sought medical attention and supplies, how women dealt with childbirth in the bush, and how quack doctors were able to concoct and distribute ‘miracle elixirs’. Tickets: Members free, general admission $10, concession $8, family $25 Visit nationaltrust.org.au/whats-on-nsw

Saumarez is thrilled to see the return of its farmers’ market bringing the local community up to 30 mouth-watering fresh produce and plant product stalls. Visitors can also explore the Edwardian mansion and parts of the stunning garden. Afterwards, relax on the lawn with music (hopefully live!), coffee and seating. Tickets: Free entry to stalls and garden (donation appreciated), House entry tickets: Members and children under 5 free, general admission $15, concession $10, family $35 Visit nationaltrust.org.au/whats-on-nsw

October – December 2021

Calendar

Lindesay Christmas Gift Fair THURSDAY 18 – SATURDAY 20 NOVEMBER 10AM – 4PM, $5 ENTRY Shop for distinctive Christmas gifts in beautiful surroundings at the Lindesay Christmas Gift Fair. Dozens of stalls offer everything from gourmet foods to homewares, antiques and much more, all set inside the house and grounds of one of Sydney’s finest historic properties overlooking Sydney Harbour. The ever-popular fair, now in its 19th year, is run by the National Trust (NSW) Women’s Committee. Tickets: $5 per person. Bookings via Eventbrite Visit nationaltrust.org.au/whats-on-nsw

HARPER’S IN BLOOM HARPER’S MANSION, BERRIMA 14 NOVEMBER, 10AM – 5PM

GHOST NIGHT AT OLD GOVERNMENT HOUSE

'Harper's in Bloom 2021' celebrates community and the joys of gardening at Harper's Mansion in Berrima in November when the extensive collection of heritage roses is in bloom. Picnic in the grounds, shop the specialist stalls or get lost in the Maze. Kids can enjoy the face painters and bouncy castle. Plants potted up by Harper's garden volunteers will be for sale. Tickets: Members free, general admission $10, concession $8 Visit nationaltrust.org.au/whats-on-nsw

OLD GOVERNMENT HOUSE, PARRAMATTA 19 NOVEMBER, 7:30PM – 10:30PM As the weather gets warmer, it’s time to book your tickets for our ever-popular ghost night. Learn of our Colonial past through a candlelit tour and stories from staff, volunteers and past guests about unusual happenings at the World Heritage-listed Georgian house. Tickets: Members $32, general admission $35 Visit nationaltrust.org.au/whats-on-nsw

RECYCLING 1940s STYLE MISS PORTER’S HOUSE, NEWCASTLE 14 NOVEMBER, 1PM – 4PM

ENQUIRING MINDS – CURATOR’S TALK

Recycling is a new thing, right? Think again. For many Australians who lived the Great Depression (1929 onward), learning how to reuse and recycle was essential and led to habits that they continued through life. Discover how a soap saver works, what an egg has to do with darning and see what sustainability meant in the early twentieth century at Miss Porter’s House. Tickets: Members and children under five free, general admission $10, concession $8, family $25 Visit nationaltrust.org.au/whats-on-nsw

OLD GOVERNMENT HOUSE, PARRAMATTA 25 NOVEMBER, 2:30PM – 3:30PM Join our curator as she takes you deeper into the lives of the early scientists and collectors. Explore in depth how their work contributed to the advancement of scientific knowledge around the world during the age of enquiry. Tickets: Members free, general admission $15, concession $10, family $35 Visit nationaltrust.org.au/whats-on-nsw

National Trust (NSW)

Calendar

VIENNA COTTAGE 25TH ANNUAL CHRISTMAS BOUTIQUE VIENNA COTTAGE, HUNTERS HILL 26 NOVEMBER 3PM – 8PM, 27 – 28 NOVEMBER 10AM – 4PM Find that perfect Christmas gift while strolling through the delightful heritage-listed Vienna Cottage at Hunters Hill. The rooms will be filled with gourmet foods and hampers, jewellery and accessories, decorative homewares and delicious wines. Millbrook Estate Boutique Winery will be offering free tastings. Vienna Cottage is located in the heart of the Hunters Hill peninsula and within easy walking distance of many fascinating heritage buildings.

A MAGICAL VICTORIAN CHRISTMAS

Tickets: Free entry. Visit nationaltrust.org.au/whats-on-nsw

OLD GOVERNMENT HOUSE, PARRAMATTA

MAYFIELD HERITAGE WALK

MEMBERS ONLY VIEWING 3 DECEMBER, 5PM – 7PM National Trust members can enjoy the magic of a Victorian-style Christmas with complimentary canapés and glass of bubbles at this special free event.

MAYFIELD 28 NOVEMBER, 2PM – 5PM In the 1880s-90s, Mayfield was known as the "Toorak of Newcastle" and was home to some of the city's most wealthy and powerful residents. Enjoy a heritage walk around this fascinating part of the city, organised by the Friends of Grossmann House. Led by knowledgeable guide Wayne Campbell, the walk will start on the corner of Regent and Hanbury Streets and take you past the once-grand houses of the western area of Mayfield. Learn about the suburb's architecture and history and about people who lived there in its heyday. Tickets: Members $20, general admission adults $25 Visit nationaltrust.org.au/whats-on-nsw

Tickets: Members free Visit nationaltrust.org.au/whats-on-nsw 4 – 19 DECEMBER, 10AM – 4PM (CLOSED MONDAYS) Help us dress Old Government House in Victorian-style splendour to celebrate Christmas! Experience this historic house decked in traditional ornaments, featuring festive Christmas greenery, paper snowflakes, and a beautifully decorated Christmas tree gracing the stairhall. Create your own decoration to add to the display and photograph yourself next to the tree. Tickets: Members free, general admission $15, concession $10, family $35 Visit nationaltrust.org.au/whats-on-nsw

National Trust NSW Magazine - Oct to Dec 2021

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